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BAEDEKER'S 
EUROPEAN    GUIDE    BOOKS 


Latest  Editions  always  on  hand  and  mailed  to  any  address  on  rece 
of  price.     Illustrated  with  numerous  Maps,  Plans,  Panoramas, 
and  Views.    12mo,  Cloth.    ALL  PRICED  NET. 


ALPS  (EASTERN),  ikoluding  the  Bavarian  Highlatots,  Titrol,  Salzbui 

etc.,  with  84  Maps,  9  Plans,  and  7  Panoramas,  ....  $2 
BELGTJIM  AND  HOLLAND,  with  IS  Maps  and  20  Plans,  .  .  .  $1 
EGYPT  (LOWER),  WITH  THE  Fayum  and  thb  Peninsula  of  Sinai,  wj 

16  Maps,  80  Plans,  7  Views,  and  76  Vignettes,  ....  $4. 
EGYPT  (UPPER),  WITH  Nubia  as  par  as  the  Second  Cataract  and  tj 

Western  Oases,  with  li  Maps  and  26  Plans,  ....  $3 
FRANCE  (NORTHERN),  from  BBLGum  and  the  English  Channel 

the  Loire,  excluding  Paris  and  its  Environs,  with  9  Maps  and 

Plans, $2. 

PRANCE  (SOUTHERN),  from  the  Loire  to  the  Spanish  and  Italic 

Frontiers,  including  CORSICA,  with  14  Maps  and  19  Plans,  .  $2. 
GERMANY  (NORTHERN),  with  35  Maps  and  54  Plans,  .  .  .  $2. 
GERMANY  (SOUTHERN)  AND  AUSTRIA,  including  Hungary,  Halmati 

AND  BosiNA,  with  16  Maps  and  31  Plans, $2. 

GERMANY  (RHINE)  FROM  ROTTERDAM  to  CONSTANCE,  with  39  Ma 

and  21  Plans, $2. 

GREAT  BRITAIN,  with  15  Maps  and  30  Plans  and  a  Panorama,  .  $3.i 
GREECE,  with  6  Maps,  14  Plans,  and  a  Panorama  of  Athens,  .  .  $3  ( 
ITALY    (NORTHERN)   including  LEGHORN,    FLORENCE.    RAVENNi 

AND  Routes  through  Switzerland  and  Austria,  with  16  Maps  and  j 

Plans, $2.^ 

ITALY  (CENTRAL)  AND  ROME,  with  10  Maps,  31  Plans,  a  Panorama  < 

Rome,  and  a  View  of  the  Foram  Romanum $l.f 

ITALY  (SOUTHERN),  SICILY,  with  Excursions  to  the  Lipari  Island 

Tunis,  Sardinia,  Malta,  and  Corfu,  with '25  Maps  and  16  Plans,  %i.i 
LONDON  AND  ITS  ENVIRONS,  with  3  Maps  and  15  Plans,  .  .  $1.£ 
NORWAY,  SWEDEN  AND  DENMARK,  with  26  Maps,  15  Plans,  and  2  Sma 

Panoramas, $3.( 

PALESTINE  AND  SYRIA,  with  18  Maps,  43  Plana,  1  Panorama  of  Jerasalen 

and  10  Views, S6.( 

PARIS  AND  ENVIRONS,  with  Routes  from  London  to  Paris,  with  " 

Maps  and  31  Plans %'H  ^ 

SWITZERLAND    AND   THE  ADJACENT    PORTIONS    OF    ITALY,  SAVOY,  AND  j 

Tyrol,  with  39  Maps,  11  Plans,  and  12  Panoramas,       .       .       .      f 
TRAVELLER'S  MANUAL   OF   CONVERSATION,  IN   English,    Ger' 

French,  and  Italian,  with  Vocabulary,  etc.,        .       .       .       .    j 
CONVERSATION  DICTIONARY,  IN  FOUR  Languages,  English,  Fb 

GERiiAN,  Italian , 

OHAELES  SOKIBNEE'S  SONS,  743-745  Broadway,  Ne^    /k 

Sole  Agents  for  the  United  States,  4 

■      y 


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fff. 


BS 


-  J 


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Advertisetnents, 


ARTHUR  &  BOND'S 

FfME  AMT  &AMMEMWf 

No.  12,  Water  Street  &  Bund,  Yokohama. 


Is  ONE  OF  THE  SIGHTS  OF  YOKOHAMA,  AND  OWING  TO 
the  Liberal  Lines  on  which  it  is  conducted,  has  in  its  Collection 
some  of  the  mpst  superb  pieces  of  both  Ancient  and  Modebn  Art 
Workmanship  in  the  country,  embracing 

Sold  Lacqaer,  Chased,  Hammered,  and  Inlaid  Hetal  Work,  iTory  Garyinp, 
Embroideries,  Cloisonne,  Porcelains,  Kakemono,  Ac,  Ac. 


Douglas  Sladen  says  in  his  Tourist's  guide  to  Yokohama  and 
Tokio :  — "  For  all  sorts  and  conditions  of  buyers  I  consider  the 
Fine  Art  Gallery 

THE  MODEL  CUEIO  SHOP." 


T.  in  N.  C.  Daily  News  says: — "The  Fine  Art  Gallery  is  certainly 
WELL  WORTH  A  VISIT  and  I,  for  one,  imtil  I  had  seen  it,  had  no  con- 
ception of  the  exquisite  work  the  Japanese  can  produce." 


The  Hongkong  Telegraph  says: — "NO  ONE  should  go  to  Yokohama 
without  visiting  the  Fine  Art  Gallery." 


Visitors  to  Japan  are  cordially  invited  to  inspect  our  collection,  and 
will  find  all  articles  marked  in  Plain  Figures  at  Moderate  Prices. 


TATTOOING. 

HoriChiyo. — The  celebrated  tattooer,  patronised  by  T.  R.  H.  Princes 
Albert  Victor  and  George,  and  known,  all  over  the  world  for  his  fine  and 
artistic  work,  is  retain^  by  us ;  and  designs  and  samples  can  be  seen  at 
the  Tattooing  Booms. 

ARTHUE  &  BOND'S 

No.  12,  Water  Street  &  Bund,  Tokohama. 


\ 


A 

V 


HANDBOOK  FOR  TRAVELLERS 


m 


JAPAN 


8i:i)irb  (Sbition 


RBYISBD     AND     FOB     THE     MOST     PART    BE-WBITTEN 


BY 


BASIL  HALL  CHAMBERLAIN 

XMEBITUS    FROFE8SOB    OF    JAPANB8B   AND    FHILOLOOT    IN    THB    IMPERIAL 

UNIYBBSITT    OF    JAPAN 


AND 


W.  B.  MASON 

LATE  OF  THB  IMPERIAL  JAPANESE    DEPARTMENT  OF  COMMUNICATIONS 


WITH    FIFTEEN    MAPS 


r^ut  • 


NEW  YORK 

CHARLES    SCRIBNER'S    SONS 

LONDON    JOHN  MURRAY 


-,.♦*. 


YOKOHAMA 
SHANGHAI 
HONGKONG 
SINGAPORE 


.KELLY/    WALSH,   LIMITED 
1893 

[  ALL  RIGHTS  RBSERYED  ] 


Ti.  Preface, 

Foss,  T.  B.  Glover  Esq.,  J.  K.  Goodrich  Esq.,  Lafcadio 
Heam  Esq.,  Dr.  J.  L.  Janson,  Professor  J.  Milne,  F.R.S., 
Bunyiu  Nanjio  Esq.,  Arthur  Norman  Esq.,  H.  V.  S.  Peeke 
Esq.,  F.  Plate  Esq.,  J.  B.  Rentiers  Esq.,  F.  Ringer  Esq.,  W. 
J.  S.  Shand  Esq.,  Rev.  G.  T.  Smith,  Professor  T.' Wada, 
Captain  R.  N.  Walker,  Dr.  H.  Weipert,  and  several  other 
gentlemen.  They  would  furthermore  acknoivledge  their  in- 
debtedness to  the  works  of  Dr.  J.  J.  Rein,  Rev.  W.  E.  Griffis, 
Dr.  W.  N.  Whitney,  and  Dr.  E.  J.  Eitel,  as  also  to  the  columns 
of  the  *■  Japan  Mail.* 

i 

Any  corrections  or  suggestions  will  be  gratefully  received. 
Tokyo,  July,  1891. 


CONTENTS. 


INTRODUCTION. 


Page. 

1.  General ;  Books  on  Japan ; 
Maps  1 

2.  Steam  Communication    ...  2 

3.  Cnstom-House   3 

4.  Treaty  Limits ;  Passports..  3 

5.  Guides    4 

6.  Posts ;  Telegraplis ;  Banks  5 

7.  Currency, 5 

8.  Weights  and  .Measures   ...  5 

9.  Inns ;  Travelling  Expenses  7 

10.  Climate;    Dress;   Time  of 

Visit   8 

11.  Provisions  9 

12.  Means     o£      Locomotion ; 

Luggage 10 

13.  Places  best  worth  Visiting  12 

14.  Purchases ;  Objects  of  Art.  12 


Pack. 

15.  Shipment  of  Curios 13 

16.  Shooilfcig 14 

17.  Fishing   14 

18.  Miscel£bneous  Hints 15 

19.  Language 17 

20.  The  Shinto  Religion 21 

21.  Japanese  Buddhism 24 

22.  List   of    Go4s    and    God- 
desses   27 

23.  Christian  Mission  Stations  33 

24.  Outline  of  Japanese  His- 
tory   34 

25.  Celebrated  Personages 36 

26.  Population    of    the   Chief 
Cities 47 

27.  Outline  Tours    48 


EOUTES. 
Section  I. — Eastern  Japan. 


BouTV.  Page. 

1.  Yokohama 53 

2.  Excursions     from     Yoko- 
hama*       55 

3.  Yokohamato  Tokyo  by  Rail    62 

4.  Tokyo  ,_. 63 

5.  Excursions  from  Tokyo  ...     91 

6.  The  Hakone  District :  Mi- 

yanoshita,  Hakone  97 

7.  'Hie  Peninsula  of  Izu  108 

8.  Vries  Island  Ill 

9.  Fuji  and  Neighbourhood...  114 

10.  Ways  to  and  from  Kofu  ...  121 

11.  Kumagai  to  Omiya  in  Chi- 
chibu  139 

12.  The  Tokyo-Takasaki-Yoko- 

kawa  Railway.  [Maebashi.] 
Isobe,    Myogi-san   140 

13.  Karuizawa    and     Asama- 
yama  142 

14.  Ikao,  Kusatsu,  and  Neigh- 
bourhood     146 


Route.  Paos. 

15.  The  Ryomo  Railway 150 

16.  Nikko  and  Neighbourhood.  152 

17.  Prom  Nikko  to  Tokyo  or 
Ikao  ind  Ashio  and  the 
Valley  of  the  Watarase- 
gawa.  Chuzenji  to  Ashio...  167 

18.  Prom  Nikko  to  Ikao  over 
the  Konsei-toge  ' 169 

19.  Trips  in  the  Provinces  of 
Hitachi,  Shimosa,  Kazusa, 
and  Boshu 171 

20.  The  Shiobera  District 182 

21.  Bandai-san 184 

22.  From  Niigata  to  Waka- 
matsu  (Aizu),  and  to  Moto- 
miya  on  the  Northern 
Railway 186 

23.  From  Koriyama  through 
the  Province  of  Iwaki  to 
TairaandMito 187 


vm. 


Contents. 


Section  II. — Nobthern  Japan. 


Bouts.  .  Page. 

24.  The  Northern  Eailway  and 

theOshuKaido    191 

25.  From  Sendai  to  Yamagata 
and  Yonezawa 202 

26.  From  TSkyo  to  Akita  on 
the  North- West  Coast    ...  203 

27.  From  Sendai  to  Tsnruga- 
oka,  Sakata,  Honjo,  and 
Akita  204 


Route. 

28.  From  Niigata  to  Tsuru-ga- 
oka 

29.  From  Akita  to  Aomori. . .    . 

30.  Matsushima  and  Kinkwa^ 

zan 

31.  The  North-East  Coast 


Section  III. — Central  Japan. 


32. 

83. 
84. 


The    Karuizawa  -  Naoetsu 
Bailway  and  Niigata.  The . 

Island  of  Sado  

The  West  Coast  from  Tsn- 

ruga  to  Naoetsu  

The  Mountains  of  Etchu 
and  Hida   

Section  IV. — Koutes 


85. 


The  Bapids  of  the  Tenryu- 
gawa.  The  Ina  Kaido  ... 
From  Nagoya  through  the 

Potteries  to  Nebane 

37.  The  Shinto  Temples  of  Ise 


36. 


219 

227 

230 

Connecting  Tokyo  and  Kyoto. 


38. 
39. 


41. 
42. 
43. 

AA, 

45. 
46. 


TheTokaido  257 

TheNakasendo : 270 

Section  V. — Western  Japan  and  the  Inland  Sea. 


40.  By  Steamer    from    Yoko- 
hama to  Kobe  


K5be  and  Neighbourhood..  279 
Osaka  and  Neighbourhood.  283 

Kyoto  287 

Lake  Biwa 317 

Nara  and  Neighbourhood..  324 
Through  Yamatb    to    the 
Monastery  of  Koya-san  in 
Kishu 331 


47.  From  Kyoto  through  Tam- 
ba  to  the  Se^.  of  Japan. 
Ama-no-Hashidate  

48.  TheSan-indo     

49.  The  Island  of  Awaji 

50.  The   Inland   Sea  and  the 
Chief  Towns 
its  Shores  .... 


on  or  near 


Section  VI. — The  Island  of  Shikoku. 


61.  From  Matsuyama  jbo  Kochi 
over  the  Mountains  of  lyo 
andTosa 371 


Section  VII.— The 

54.  Nagasaki  and  Neighbour- 
hood      379 

55.  Excursions  from  Nagasaki.  384 

56.  Through    North  -  "V^stern 

Kyushu  by  Eoad  and  Rail.  391 

57.  From  Kokura  to  Oita  by 
the  North-East  Coast  and 

to  Kumamoto    897 

58.  From  Kumamoto  to  Nobe- 
oka  and  Oita 404 


52.  From  Kochi  to  Tokushima 
down  the  Eapids  of  the 
Yoshino-gawa   

63.  Outline  of  other  Trips  in 
Shikoku 

Island  of  Kyushu. 

59.  Nagasaki  to  Kagoshima  ... 

60.  Kagoshima  to  Kirishima- 
yama  and  via  the  Bapids 
of  the  Kumagawa  to  Ku- 
mamoto   


61.  From  Nagasaki  to  the  Go- 
t5  Islands  and  Tsushima ; 
to  Fusan  and  Gensan  in 
Korea;  and  to  Vladivo- 
stock  in  Siberia    


Contents. 


IX. 


Section  VIII. — The  Island  of  Yezo. 


Bouts.  Page. 

62.  Ha«kodate  and  Neighbour- 

hood      415 

63.  Excursions  from  Hakodate  418 

64.  Hakodate  to  Fukuyama  ...  420 

65.  Hakodate  to  Esashi 422 


Route.  Page. 

66.  Hakodate  to  Sapporo  and 
VolcanoBay 42a 

67.  The  South-East  Coast  and 
the  Southern  Kuriles 426 

68.  From  Kushiro  to  Abashiri. 
The  North-East  Coast 427 


APPENDIX. 


I.  From  Inawashiro  to  Yone- 
zawa  viA  Bandai  -  san 
and  the  Hibara  Pass  ...  429 

n.  From  Yonezawa  to  Mura- 
kami ind  Miomote    430 

m.  From  Murakami  to  Tsuru- 
ga-oka  tnd  the  Agari-toge.  431 

GLOSSARY  

INDEX  


IV.  From    Tsuru-ga-oka    to 

Sendai  Tnd  the  Bokuju- 
ri-goe  and  the  Seki- 
yama-toge 432: 

V.  Note  on  Yudono-san  482 


433 

438 

EBBATA 460 


«f 


MAPS  AND  PLANS. 


*•«     •••     •••     •«•     •••     •••     ••• 


Japan 

8hintd  Temple  of  Izomo 
Buddhist  Temple  of  Ikegami 
Neighbourhood  of  Yokohama 
Tokyo  and  Neighbourhood  ... 
Fuji  and  the  Hakone  District 
Ikao  and  Kusatsu 

NikkO       

Eastern  Japan 
Northern  Japan 
Central  Japan... 
Kdbo  and  Osaka 

Kydto       

Western  Japan  and  the  Inland 
jvy  ubuvi     ...     ...     ...     ...     ... 

Neighbourhood  of  Nagasaki 
South-Western  Yezo 


!••        •••        •«• 


•  ••         •••        ••• 


•  ••         •••         ••■ 


•  •  •         ■  •  • 


*••      •••      •mi 


•••      •••     •••      ••• 


•  •      •••      •«• 


)  •  •      •  ■  • 


•  •         •••         •••         •(•        •••         •••         ••! 


•  •         •••         •••         ••• 


•  •         ■••         ••• 


•  •  •         •  •  • 


•  •        •••         ■••         •••        ••• 


Sea 


•  •  •         •  •  4 


•••       ••■       ••! 


•  •«       •«•       •••       •••       ••« 


PAGE. 

to  face 

Title-page. 

f> 

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26 

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53 

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63 

99 

97 

>» 

145 

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152 

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188 

99 

216 

99 

254 

>• 

279 

99 

287 

** 

368 

» 

377 

99 

379 

*• 

413 

A 


Handbook  for  Travellers 


IN 


JAPAN . 


INTRODUCTION. 


Page. 

1.  General;  Books  on  Japan; 
Maps  1 

2.  Steam  Communication    ...  2 

3.  Custom  House  3 

4.  Treaty  Limits;    Passports  3 

5.  Guides 4 

6.  Posts  ;      Telegraphs; 

Banks 6 

7.  Currency 5 

8.  Weights  and  Measures   ...  5 

9.  Inns ;       TraveUing      Ex- 
penses   7 

10.  Climate;    Dress;  Time  of 
Visit   8 

11.  Provisions  j 9 

12.  Means     of     Locomotion; 

Luggage : 10 

13.  Pla^s  best  worth    Visit- 
ing    12 


Pagk. 

14.  Purchases;      Objects      of 
Art 12 

15.  Shipment  of  Curios  ...  .....  13 

16.  Shooting     14 

17.  Fishing 14 

18.  Miscel£.neous  Hints 15 

19.  Language  17 

20.  The  Shinto  Eeligion    21 

21.  Japanese  Buddhism 24 

22.  List   of    Gods    and    God- 
desses .f 27 

23.  Christian     Mission      Sta- 
tions    .^.......  33 

24.  Outline  of  Japanese  His- 
tory       34 

25.  Celebrated  Personages    ...  36 

26.  Population   of   the    Chief 
Cities 47 

27.  OutUne  Tours   48 


1. — ^General  ;  Books  on  Japan  ;  Maps. 

Japan,  secluded  for  over  two  centuries  from  contact  with  the  outer 
world,  was  burst  open  by  tlie  American  expedition  in  1853-4  under  the 
command  of  Commodore  Perry.  Making  a  virtue  of  necessity,  her 
rulers  soon  determined  to  Europeanise  the  country  as  the  best  means  of 
preserving  its  independence.  Ships  were  bought,  foreign  naval  and 
military  instructors  engaged,  feudalism  replaced  by  a  centralised  auto- 
cracy, education  re-organised  on  the  pattern  offered  by  Western 
nations,  posts,  telegraphs,  and  railways  introduced,  European  dress, 
European  manners,  European  amusements  adopted.  Buddhism  dis- 
established, Christianity — if  not  encouraged — at  least  no  longer  perse* 
ented.     In  short,  in  every  sphere  of  activity  the  old  order  gave  way  to 


2  Introduction: — Steam  Communication. 

tbe  new.  Bat  even  Japan,  great  as  is  the  power  of  imitation  and 
assimilation  possessed  by  lier  people,  has  not  been  able  completely  to 
transform  her  whole  material,  mental,  and  social  being  within  the  limits 
of  a  single  lifetime.  Fortunately  for  the  tourist,  she  continues  in  a 
state  of  transition — less  Japanese  and  more  European  day  by  day,  it 
is  true,  but  still  retaining  characteristics  of  her  own,  especially  in  the 
dress,  manners,  and  beliefs  of  the  lower  classes  of  society.  Those  who 
wish  to  see  as  much  as  possible  of  the  old  order  of  things,  should  come 
quickly. 

It  is  impossible  within  the  limits  of  this  Introduction  to  enter  into 
those  details  of  race,  history,   customs,   religion,   art,   literature,   etc., 
which,  together  with  the  more  recent  influence  of  Europe  and  Ame- 
rica, have  made  Japan  what  she  is  to-day.    The  traveller  who  desires 
to  travel  intelligently — to  do  more  than   merely  wander  from  hotel  to 
hotel — may  be  referred  for  a  summary  of  such  information  to  a  small 
work  entitled  "  Things  Japanese,"  where,  if  he  wishes  for  still  more, 
he   will .  find   references   to  the   original   authorities  in  each   special 
branch.    Of  religion   alone,   a  short  sketch  seemed  indispensable,   as 
the  temples  are  Japan's  chief  sights  ;  and   we  have  added  an   outline 
of  history  and  a  list  of  celebrated   personages,  in  order  to  assist  the 
traveller  to  thread   his    way   through  tbe  maze  of  proper  names  with 
which  he  will  be  confronted.     In  Japan,  more  than  in  any  European 
country,  is  it  necessary  to  take  some  trouble  in   order   to  master  such 
preliminary  information.    For  whereas  England,  France,  Italy,  Ger- 
many,  and   the  rest,  all  resemble  each  other  in  their  main  features, 
because  all  have  alike  grown  up  in  a  culture  fundamentally  identical, 
this  is  not  the  case  with  Japan.     He,  therefore,  who  should  essay  to 
travel  without  having  learnt   a  word   concerning  Japan's  past,  would 
run  the   risk  of  forming  opinions  ludicrously  erroneous.     We  would 
also  specially   recommend   Griffis's    "Mikado's   Empire"    and   Rein's 
"Japan"  and  **The  Industries  of  Japan,"  as  books  which  it  would  be 
profitable  to  read  on  the  way  out.     Rein's  works  are,  it  is  true,  fitted 
only  for  the  serious  student,  who  is  prepared  for  hard  words  ard  tech- 
nical details  ;  but  "  The  Mikado's  Empire  "  is  calculated  to  appeal  to 
all  classes  of  readers.   Of  books  on  Japanese  art,  we  may  name  Ander- 
son's  admirable  work,   "The  Pictorial   Arts  of  Japan,"  and   Huish's 
more  handy  "  Japan  and  its  Art."     Morse's  "  Japanese  Homes  "  is  an 
excellent  description,  not  only  of  the  dwellings  of  the  people,  but  of  all 
the  articles  belonging  to  their  daily  life. 

By  far  the  best  maps  are  those  now  in  course  of  publication  at  the 
Imperial  Geological  Office,  and  to  be  obtained  of  Messrs.  Kelly  and 
Walsh  at  Yokohama. 


2. — Steam  Communication. 

Japan  may  be  reached  either  by  the  Pacific  Mail  or  the  Occiden- 
tal and  Oriental  Company's  steamers  from  San  Francisco  in  about 
19  days,  or  from  Vancouver  by  the  Canadian  Pacific  Company's 
steamers  in  a  day  or  two  less  ;  or  else  from  Europe  vid  the  Suez  Canal 
by  the  Peninsular  and  Oriental  steamers  from  London  and  Brindisi  \ 


Cmtom.' House.     Treaty  Limits ;  Passports,  3 

by  the  Messageries  Maritimes  from  Marseilles,  and  by  the  Norddeu- 
tscher  Lloyd  from  Bremerhaven,  Southampton,  or  Genoa  in  about  40 
days.  There  are  also  outside  steamers  from  London,  especially  those 
of  the  "Glen"  and  "Shire"  Lines,  with  good  passenger  accom- 
modation. 

Yokohama,  the  connecting  port  of  all  the  above,  is  also  the  chief 
centre  of  the  local  steamship  traffic.  The  principal  Japanese  company 
is  the  Nippon  Yusen  Ewaislm  (Japan  Mail  Steamship  Company),  which 
runs  steamers  thrice  weekly  to  Hakodate,  almost  daily  to  Kobe;  weekly 
to  Nagasaki  and  Shanghai;  fortnightly  vilt  the  Inland  Sea  to  Vladivo- 
stock  in  Siberia,  calling  at  Fusan  and  Gensan  in  Korea,  for  Tientsin  v'i§L 
the  Inland  Sea,  calling  at  Korean  ports;  weekly  from  Kobe  to  Sakai, 
Tsurnga,  Niigata  on  the  West  Coast,  and  Hakodate,  occupying  altoge- 
ther about  six  weeks  on  the  round  trip;  also,  at  longer  intervals,  to 
the  Loochoo  and  Bonin  Islands.  The  Kobe  Domei  Kisen-Gwaisha 
maintains  communication  with  the  principal  ports  in  the  Inland  Sea, 
and  there  are  numerous  smaller  companies  which  run  boats  to  most  of 
the  ports  on  the  coast  as  well  as  on  some  of  the  larger  rivers  and  lakes. 

Boats — known  in  the  Treaty  Ports  as  sampans — ply  in  all  the 
harbours,  and  land  passengers  from  the  steamers.  The  usual  fare 
from  ship  to  shore,  or  vice  versd^  is  from  10  to  20  sen  per  head. 
Hotel  boats  are  in  attendance  at  the.  larger  places. 

8. — CusTOM-HousE. 

A  strict  examination  of  the  luggage  of  passengers  is  made  at  t]^ 
Custom-house  ;  but  it  is  rare  for  any  difficulty  to  arise,  as  opium  is  the 
only  article  prohibited  in  the  tarifE.  All  dutiable  articles,  however,  should 
be  entered  on  the  ship's  manifest,  as  otherwise  the  owner  renders 
himself  liable  to  a  fine.    (See  also  section  on  Shipment  of  Curios.) 


4. — Tbeaty  Limits;  Passpokts. 

Foreigners®  have  the  right  to  reside  without  passports  at  the  "Open 
Ports"  (also  called  "Treaty  Ports")  of  Yokohama,  Kobe,  Osaka, 
Nagasaki,  Hakodate,  and  Niigata,  and  at  any  place  within  a  radius  of 
10  ri,  that  is,  nearly  24^  miles  from  those  ports.  The  last  place  on 
the  Tokaido  railway,  coming  from  Yokohama,  at  which  one  may  stay 
without  a  passport  is  Kozu.  .  Tokyo,  though  not  properly  an  Open  Port, 
may  be  visited  without  a  passport,  as  may  also  its  immediate  neigh- 
bourhood ;  and  the  night  may  be  spent  at  the  Imperial,  Tokyo,  Club, 
and  Seiyoken  Hotels,  or  at  a  friend's  house  without  let  or  hindrance. 

Passports  for  visiting  other  portions  of  Japan  may  be  obtained 
by  tourists  and  all  others  not  in  Japanese  employ  by  application 
to  the  diplomatic  representative  of  the  country  to  which  they 
belong,  these  diplomatic  representatives  obtaining  them  from  the  Japan- 
ese Foreign  Office.      Tlius,  Englishmen  mUst   apply  to    the    British 

*  *'  ForeigpaerQ  '*  (Jap.  gwaikokujin  or  ijin)  is  the  word  uni^^sally  employed  in  Japan 
to  denote  all  persons  or  Caucasian  race.  It  will  sound  o«d  to  new-comers  to  hear 
KngUshmen  speaking  of  themselves  as  **  foreigners,"  *'  we  foreigners." 


4  Introduction : — Guides. 

Minister,  and  Americans  to  the  United  States  Minister,  both  of  whom, 
also  the  majority  of  the  representatives   of  other  countries,  have   the 
Legations  in  Tokyo.      Foreign  employes  must  apply  through   the 
Japanese  employers. 

It  should  be  distinctly  understood  that  passports,  though  never  r 
fused,  are  of  the  nature  of  a  favour.  They  cannot  be  demanded  of  tl 
Legation  authorities.  Properly  speaking,  the  tourist  should  presei 
himself  in  person  at  the  Legation  to  make  the  application.  When  th 
is  impossible,  a  note  should  be  written  to  the  Minister,  explaining  tl 
circumstances  and  requesting  that  the  passport  be  sent  to  such  and  sue 
a  place.  This  application  should  be  forwarded  through  the  Consul  ( 
the  port  at  which  one  is  staying.  The  Hakone-Miyanoshita-Atari 
district  is  an  exception.  Passports  for  it  can  be  obtained  of  the  Kencl 
^Prefecture)  or  of  the  Consuls  at  Yokohama  on  payment  of  a  small  fe 
A  similar  rule  holds  good  at  Kobe  with  regard  to  passports  for  tl 
Kyoto-Nara  and  Lake  Biwa  district,  and  at  Nagasaki  for  the  baths  c 
Ureshino  and  Takeo. 

The  Japanese  authorities  generally  insist  on  being  exactly  informe 
of  the  route  the  traveller  purposes  taking.  He  is  therefore  advised  1 
make  out  his  application  with  great  minuteness,  mentioning  as  man 
routes  and  places  on  each  route  as  possible.  This  he  can  best  do  eitlu 
by  copying  portions  of  the  headings  and  names  of  the  chief  places  i 
the  itineraries  given  at  the  beginnfng  of  each  Route  in  this  volume,  ( 
by  taking  counsel  with  some  resident  friend.  After  all,  he  is  not  ol 
liged  to  visit  every  place  on  his  programme,  which  had  therefoi 
better  err  on  the  side  of  over-fullness  than  on  that  of  scantiness.  ] 
would  be  highly  convenient  if  the  Japanese  authorities  would  grac 
passports  for  all  Japan  ;  but  this  they  almost  invariably  refuse  to  d< 
Passports  are,  however,  granted  for  certain  routes  termed  *  Fixed  *  c 
*  Regular  Routes,Mists  of 'which  are  kept  at  the  British  and  America 
Legations.  The  word  *  Fixed  *  or  '  Regular,'  as  tlius  used,  is  not  mean 
to  imply  that  travel  is  in  any  way  restricted  to  the  routes  in  questior 
The  arrangement  is  meant  only  to  save  trouble  to  the  applicants  as  we! 
as  to  the  authorities. 

An  application  for  a  passport  should  state  the  time  for  which  th 
passport  is  desired.  From  one  to  three  months  is  the  time  which  it  i 
generally  advisable  to  mention,  applications  for  longer  periods  beinj 
liable  to  be  refused.  It  is  also  desirable  to  state  that  the  journey  i 
intended  "  for  the  benefit  of  my  health." 

6. — Guides. 

Guides  understanding  English  can  be  procured  of  the  Guides'  Associa 
tion  i^Kaiyiisha)  at  Yokohama  and  Kobe,  with  branches  at  Tokyo  ant 
Kyoto.  Apply  at  any  of  the  hotels.  The  fixed  charge  at  presen 
(1891)  is  advertised  as  follows  : — "One  dollar  per  day  for  a  party  o 
one  or  two  tourists  ;  over  two,  25  cents  added  for  each  tourist.  In  al 
cases  the  guide's  travelling  expenses  must  be  paid  by  his  employer,  anc 
he  is  to  be  allowed  one  dollar  per  day  additional  for  his  hotel  expenses. 

A  guide  is  an  absolute  necessit}'  to  persons  unacquainted  with  tli( 
language.      Those   knowing   a   little   Japanese   may    feel    thembelve 


Posts ;  Telegrwphs ;  Banks.    Currency,    Weights  d  Measures^    5 

more  their  own  masters  by  hiring  a  man-servant,  or  "boy,"  also 
able  to  cook,  and  having  neither  objection  to  performing  menial 
functions,  nor  opinions  of  his  own  as  to  the  route  which  it  wiU  be 
best  to  take. 

6. — Posts  ;  Telegraphs  ;  Banks. 

The  Imperial  Japanese  Post  and  Telegraph  services  are  excellent. 
Letters  and  papers  can  be  forwarded  with  perfect  safety  to  the 
different  stages  of  a  journey.  The  Post-oflSce  Order  system  is 
thoroughly  efficient,  and  will  be  found  useful  by  travellers  who  wish 
to  avoid  carrying  about  much  money. 

In  most'  towns  of  any  size  the  Post  and  Telegraph  Offices  are 
combined.  Telegrams  in  any  of  the  principal  Eumpean  languages 
cost  5  cents  per  Word,  with  a  minimum  charge  of  25  cents,  addresses 
being  charged  for.  A  telegram  in  Japanese  of  10  Karva  characters 
costs  15  cents,  addresses  not  being  charged  for,  and  the  foreign 
residents  therefore  often  avail  themselves  of  this  means  of  com- 
manication. 

There  are  at  Yokohama,  Kobe,  and  Nagasaki  branches  of  the 
Hongkong  and  Shanghai  Bank,  the  New  Oriental  Bank,  and  the 
Chartered  Bank  of  India,  Australia,  and  China.  The  119th  National 
Bank,  a  Japanese  institution  in  Tokyo,  issues  cheque-books  for  the 
use  of  foreigners,  and  is  a  convenient  medium  for  making  payments  to 
the  larger  Japanese  hotels  and  trading  firms. 

7. — ^CuRRENCY, 

The  values  are  decimal,  with  the  yen^  or  dollar,  as  the  unit.  One  yen 
contains  K)0  sen  or  cents ;  one  «6w  contains  10  r'ln.  The  currency 
consists  of  gold  which  is  practically  never  seen ;  of  silver  pieces  of  1 
y«n,  50  «6w,  20  «e»,  10  «ew,  and  5  sen  ;  of  nickel  pieces  of  5  sen ;  of 
copper  pieces  of  2  «e«,  1  sen^  5  rm,  and  1  r'ln^  besides  others  issued 
during  feudal  days  representing  1 J  rm,  8  riw,  (these  are  oblong  pieces 
called  tempQ)y  etc.;  and  of  paper  money  worth  20  sen,  50  sen,  1  yen, 
5  yeji,  10  yen,  and  various  larger  sums.  Mexican  silver  dollars  circulate 
only  at  the  Treaty  Ports. 

It  is  best  to  travel  with  paper  money,  both  because  of  its  superior 
portability,  and  because  it  is  better  known  to  the  inhabitants  of  the 
interior  than  the  silver  yen.  One  of  the  first  things  the  tourist  should 
do  is  to  learn  the  difference  between  the  various  notes  for  the  values 
above-mentioned.  He  is  advised  to  take  with  him  no  notes  of  a 
larger  denomination  than  10  yen,  as  it  is  often  difficult  to  get  change 
except  in  the  large  towns, 

8. — Weights  and  Measures. 

Distances  are  reckoned  by  ri  and  cho,  36  cho  going  to  the  ri.*^ 
One  ri  is  equal  to  2.44  English  statute  miles,  or,  roughly  speaking, 
to  a  trifle  under  2^  miles.  One  cho  is  equal  to  358  English  feet,  or 
TTj  of  a  mile.    The  cho  is  subdivided  into   60   ken   (1   ken=6  ft. 

*  Some  mountain  districts  have  a  longer  n  of  50  cho. 


Introduction : — Weights  and  Measures, 


approximately),  and  the  ken  into  6  shahu  (1  8hahu=l  ft.  ap- 
proximately). The  subdivisions  of  the  shahu  follow  the  deciiiiul 
system.  Throughout  this  work,  the  distances  are  given  in  ri  and 
cho  as  well  as  in  miles,  as  visitors  to  Japan  invariably  fall  very  soon 
into  the  Japanese  method  of  reckoning,  which  indeed  must  be  learnt  in 
any  case,  as  coolies,  jinrikisha-men,  and  others  know  notiiing  of 
English  miles.  A  word  of  caution  may  here  be  given  against  the  habit 
of  certain  Japanese  having  a  superficial  knowledge  of  English,  who 
mistranslate  the  word  ri  by  "  miles."  The  following  table,  borrowed 
from  Dr.  Whitney's  "  Dictionary  of  Roads,  Towns,  and  Villages  of 
Japan,"  will  be  found  useful  : — 


EQUIVALENTS  OF  JAPANESE  £1  AND  CSO  IN  ENGLISH  MILES, 

Japanese  ri. 

0 

1 

2 

3 

4 

6 

6 

7 

8 

9 

Miles 

Miles 

Miles 

Miles 

Miles 

Miles 

Miles 

Miles 

Miles 

Miles 

Miles 

1 

2.44 

24.40 

26.84 

29.28 

31.72 

34.16 

36.60 

39.04 

41.49 

43  93 

46.37 

2 

4,88 

48.81 

61.26 

63.69 

56.18 

58.67 

6101 

63.45 

6.-..H9 

68.33 

70.77 

3 

7.32 

73.20 

76.66 

78.09 

80.68 

82.97 

85.41 

87.85 

90.29 

92.71^ 

96.17 

4 

9.76 

97.61 

100.05 

102.49 

101.93 

107.37 

109.81 

112  25 

114.69 

117.13 

119.68 

5 

12.2(' 

122.01 

124.46 

126.90 

129  3J 

131.78 

134.21 

136  66 

139.10 

141.64 

143.98 

6 

u.e4 

146.43 

148.87 

151.31 

153.75 

156.19 

158.63 

161.07 

163.51 

166.95 

168.39 

7 

17.08 

170.83 

173.27 

176.71 

178.16 

180.69 

183.03 

18647 

187.91 

190.35 

192.79 

8 

19.52 

195.23 

197.67 

200.11 

202.55 

2fi5  00 

207.44 

209.88 

212..32 

214.76 

217.20 

9- 

21.96 

219.64 

222.08 

J24.62 

226.96 

229.40 

231.84 

234.2b 

286.72 

239.16 

241.60 

Cho 

Miles 

Cho 

Miles 

Cho 

Miles 

Cho 

Miles 

Cho 

Miles 

Cho 

Miles 

1 

0.07 

7 

0.47 

13 

0.88 

19 

1.29 

25 

1.69 

31  • 

2.10 

2 

O.U 

■     8 

0.54 

14 

0.9o 

20 

1.36 

26 

1.76 

32 

2.17 

8 

0.2^ 

9 

0.61 

15 

1.02 

21 

1.42 

27 

1.83 

S3 

2.24 

4 

0.27 

10 

0.68 

16 

1.08 

22 

1.49 

28 

1.90 

84 

2.30 

6 

0.34 

11 

0.76 

17 

1.15 

23 

1.66 

29 

1.97 

35 

2.37 

6 

0.41 

12 

0.81 

18 

1.22 

24 

1.63 

80 

2.03 

36 

2.44 

Long  Measure  (Jcane).  10  hu=X  sun  (often  translated  'inch,*  but 
=1.19  inches  of  Ehglish  measure);  10  8un=\  shahu  \  6  8hahu=\  hen  ; 
10  8hahu=l  jo.  Tiie  jo,  equal  to  about  10  English  feet,  is  the  unit 
empl'>ye<1  in  measuring  heights  and  depths. 

Cloth  Measure  (Jcujira),  10  hu=\  stm  ;  10  «mw=1  shahu,  or  nearly 
12  inches  ;  10  8hahu=l  jo.  In  this  measure,  the  shahu  is  ^  longer 
than  in  Long  Measure. 

Land  Measure  {tsubo).  The  unit  is  the  tsuho,  nearly  equivalent  to 
4  square  yards  English.     An  acre  is   nearly  equivalent  to  1,210  tsuho, 

1  cho^^  Hcres,  and  1  ri  (Rquare)=6  sq.  miles,  approximately. 

Measure  of  Capacity.  10  ^o=l  sho  which  contains  about  108J  cubic 
inches,  and  is  a  little  larger. than  IJ  quart  ;  10  «/?d=l  to,  nearly  half 
a  bushel,  or,  for  liquids,  4  gallons  ;  10  to=l  hohu,  which  is  a  fraction 
less  than  5  English  bushels. 

Weight's.  The  hin  is  about  IJlb.  avoirdupois;  1  lb.  avoir.=abont  120 
momrne.  The  kwan,  which  became  the  legal  unit  in  1891,  is  equal 
to  1,000  momme  (fi\  hin  or  a  little  over  8j  Ibn.) 


Inns ;  Travelling  Expenses,  7 

9. — Inns;  Travelling  Expenses. 

The  inns  are  given  from  personal  knowledge  or  from  the  best 
accessible  aathorities,  an  asterisk  being  sometimes  prefixed  to  the  name 
of  a  house  specially  worthy  of  mention.  Wliat  is  termed  hatago  at 
a  Japanese  inn  includes  supper,  bed,  and  breakfast,  for  which  a  single 
charge  is  made.  This  varies  in  different  parts  of  the  country;  at  present 
it  ranges  from  20  sen  to  50  sen  per  head.  Anything  in  the  way  of  food 
or  liquor  ordered  in  addition  to  the  meals  supplied  has  to  be  paid  for 
separately.  There  is  no  charge  for  firing,  lighting,  attendance,  or 
bath,  provided  always  the  traveller  is  content  with  what  is  given  to  every 
one  else,  neither  is  there  any  for  tea.  But  it  is  usual,  shortly  after 
arriving  and  being  shown  into  a  room,  or  in  paying  one's  account  just 
before  leaving,  to  make  a  present,  known  as  chadai  or  *  tea-money.' 
The  latter  course  is  recommended.  With  Japanese  travellers,  this 
tea-money  varies  with  the  rank  of  the  individual,  the  amount  of  extra 
attention  which  he  desires  or  has  received,  and  with  the  quality  of 
the  accommodation.  The  foreign  tourist  is  on  a  somewhat  different 
footing,  and  there  are  seldom  gradations  of  rank  in  his  case  to  be  con- 
sidered. As  a  fair  and  practical  solution  of  a  vexed  question,  those 
who  travel  d  la  japonaise  and  who  are  charged  in  accordance  with  the 
above  scale,  may  be  recommended  to  make  the  amount  of  their 
chadai  also  vary  from  20  sen  to  50  sen  per  night.  Therefore,  for 
a  single  night's  entertainment,  the  cost,  hatago  and  chadai  included, 
may  be  put  down  at  from  40  cents  to  $1.  If  two  or  more  persons  are 
travelling  together,  the  chadai  is  increased  say  to  one  half  more  for 
two,  and  double  for  three  persons.  The  first  guest  to  arrive  has 
the  prior  right  to  the  bath.  In  some  parts,  especially  at  bathing 
resorts,  there  is  a  fixed  rate  for  accommodation  only,  the  food  being 
charged  for  separately  according  to  order.  In  such  places,  it  is.  usual 
to  make  a  present  for  distribution  amongst  the  servants  in  addition  to 
the  chadai,  whereas  in  the  ordinary  inns  such  presents  are  not  looked 
for. 

It  is  but  fair  that  foreigners  should  pay  more  than  natives,  both  for 
hotel  accommodation  and  for  jinrikishas.  They  generally  weigh  more, 
they  almost  always  want  to  travel  more  quickly,  they  give  infinitely 
more  trouble  at  an  inn  with  their  demands  for  separate  rooms,  fresh 
water  in  the  bath,  the  occupation  of  a  portion  of  the  kitchen  to  cook 
their  European  food  in,  and  a  dozen  other  such  requirements,  to  say 
nothing  of  the  necessity  under  which  the  host  lies  of  reporting  their 
presence  to  the  police. 

.  In  the  Europeanised  hotels  at  such  frequented  spots  as  Nikko, 
^  Kamakura,  Miyanoshita,  Kyoto,  Shizuoka,  etc.,  the  general  charge  is 
$2.50  or  $3.50  a  day,  everything  included  except  liquors.  The  charges 
at  the  hotels  under  foreign  nianagement  in  the  Open  Ports  are  generally 
slightly  higher.  The  charge  per  diem  for  a  native  servant  is  generally 
50  sen  a  day.  The  average  charge  (to  foreigners)  ior  jiwrihishas  in  the 
most  frequented  portions  of  the  country  is  now  (1891)  from  10  to  15 
sen  per  n,  the  same  per  hour,  and  $1  per  diem.  About  50  per  cent,  is 
added  to  these  rates  in  bad  weather  and  at  night.  But  the  tendency  of 
late  years  has  been  towards  constantly  increased  rates,  owing  to  the 


8  Introduction : — CUmate  ;  Dreu ;  Time  of  Vint. 

ride  in  the  price  of  rice  and  other  staple  commodities.     It  is  i 
give  It  small  gratuity  (_sakale)  to  jiorikiHtia-men  after  a  hard  ran 

Perhaps  one  might  Ba.y  that  the  total  cost  to  a  traveller  of  i 
habits,  travelling  at  a  reasonable  speed,  and  having  with  him  a 
servant,  should  not  exceed  $8  per  diem.  If  he  restricts  him 
mountainODB  districls,  the  expense  will  be  considerably  leas. 

It  will  be  seen  from  the  above  that  the  hostelries  at  which  tn 
in  Japan  put  np  are  of  three  kinds  :  the  European  hotel,  the 
peanised  or  half-European  half-Japanese  hotel  (Aateru),  and  the 
native  inn  Q/adoya).  The  tea-honse  (chaya)  is  different  again, 
place  where  people  neither  sleep  nor  dine,  but  only  halt  for  a  she 
to  rest  and  take  slight  refreshment.  Reeidenta  in  Japan,  howeve 
include  inns  under  the  denomination  of  tea-honses. 

The  best  style  of  Japanese  inn  is  now  generally  supplied  »itl 
chairs  and  tables  ;  or  if  there  are  ijone  in  the  house,  some  can  be  I 
in  from  tlie  school  or  the  police-station  hard  by,  where  thej 
rigueur.  Beds  are  still  rare  ;  but  good  quilts  (futon')  are  lai 
on  the  mats,  wherever  may  be  most  convenient ;  a  smaller  qoilt 
rolled  into  a  pillow,  and  in  summer  a  mosquito-net  will  be  provid 

It  is  a  common  Japanese  custom  to  carry  letters  of  introductic 
inn  to  inn  (annai-jo).  This  has  advantages,  especially  in  seai 
epidemic  disease  or  under  any  other  circumstances  liable  to  cai 
traveller  to  he  viewed  with  Buapicion,  or  when,  for  the  purposes 
special  investigation,  he  wishes  to  bo  brought  iuto  intimate  ri 
wilh  his  hosts  along  the  road.  Many  inna  keep  printed  fo 
annai-jo  which  they  will  fill  in  with  the  traveller's  name.  Occai 
these,  and  the  little  paper  slips  in  which  toothpicks  are  brougl 
the  fans  which  it  is  the  custom  to  present  on  departure  to  those 
who  have  given  a  suitable  chadai,  are  charming  specimens  of  Ji 
taste  in  small  matters  ofevery-day  life. 

10. — Cliuate  ;  DsEss ;  Timb  of  Visit. 

Bemeinber  that  Japan  is  not  in  the  tropics,  and  bring  warm  c 
with  you,  whatever  be  the  season  of  your  visit;  also  ver; 
clothing,  if  your  visit  be  in  the  summer.  Even  in  July, 
the  mean  temperature  of  Tokyo  is  about  76°  Fahrenheit,  daj 
come  when  yon  will  be  glad  of  all  your  winter  things.  This 
still  more  to  the  mountains.  On  the  other  hand,  be  more  cai 
exposing  yourself  to  the  sun  than  you  would  be  in  England,  J 
not  20°  nearer  the  trofncs  for  nothing.  A  sun  helmet  and  a  wh 
brella  are  useful  additions  to  the  traveller's  wardrobe. 

Though  clothes  of  the  roughest  description  will  suffice  for  the< 
districts,  bring  something  better — something  such  as  might  b 
at  home — in  which  to  appear  at  the  larger  hotels,  and  to  mis,  . 
be,  in  Tokyo  or  Yokohama  society,  whether  Japanese  or  foreign, 
regard  to  boots,  it  is  advisable  to  wear  such  as  can  be  pulled  < 
on  easily,  as  it  i»  neceuary  to  remove  one's  boots  every  time  one  ■ 
houte  or  temple,  m  order  not  to  »oil  the  matt  on  which  the  Japa/. 
Grave  offence  is  given,  and  naturally  given,  by  the  disregard 


Provisions.  9 

cnstom.  Light  shoes  or  boots  with  elastic  sides  are  therefore  to  be 
preferred,  except  for  mountain  work.  If  your  boots  give  out,  try  the 
native  straw  sandals  {waraji)  with  the  native  sock  {tdbi).  Many 
foreigners  have  found  them  excellent  foot-gear,  the  only  addition  re- 
quired being  a  small  piece  of  cotton-wool  to  prevent  chafing  by  the 
tliong  which  passes  between  the  great  and  the  second  toe.  Boots  barely 
holding  together  can  be  made  to  last  a  day  or  two  longer  by  tying 
waraji  underneath  them. 

Roughly  speaking,  the  Japanese  summer  and  early  autumn  are  hot 
and  wet  ;  the  late  autumn  and  early  winter  cool,  dry,  and  delightful ; 
February  and  March  disagreeable,  with  occasional  snow  and  dirty 
weather,  which  is  all  the  more  keenly  felt  iij  Japanese  inns  devoid 
of  fire-places  ;  the  laie  spring  rainy  and  windy,  with  beautiful  days 
interspersed.  The  average  temperature  of  January,  which  is  the  coldest 
month,  is  between  36°  and  37°  Fahrenheit  at  Tokyo;  but  there  are 
frequent  frosts  at  night  during  five  months  of  the  year,  namely,  from 
November  to  March  inclusive.  Skating  is  rare  in  Tokyo.  The  climate 
of  Northern  Japan  from  Sendai  onwards  is  much  colder  in  winter, 
though  not  appreciably  cooler  during  July  and  August.  A  similar 
remark  applies  even  more  forcibly  to  the  entire  West  coast,  which  is 
exposed  to  icy  winds  blowing  direct  from  Siberia. 

Each  traveller  must  judge  for  himself  from  the  above  remarks  which 
season  to  select  for  his  tour.  If  possible,  he  should  be  either  in  Tokyo 
or  in  Kyoto  during  the  first  week  in  April  to  see  the  magnificent 
display  of  cherry-blossoms,  which  are  followed  throughout  the  early 
summer  by  other  flowers — peonies,  azaleas,  wistarias,  irises — well-worth 
seeing  both  for  their  own  sake  and  for  that  of  the  picturesque  crowds 
of  Japanese  sightseers  whom  they  attract.  If  not  able  to  visit  Kyoto 
early  in  April,  he  should  try  to  be  there  at  the  end  of  October  or  early 
in  November,  when  the  autumn  leavegf  are  in  all  their  glory  of  red  and 
gold.  Tokyo  is  less  favoured  in  this  respect,  but  the  chrysanthemums 
there  early  in  November  are  magnificent.  The  summer  may  most 
advantageously  be  devoted  to  Nikko,  Miyanoshita,  Arima,  or  Unzen, 
or  to  travelling  in  Yezo  and  in  the  high  mountainous  districts  of  the 
interior  of  the  Main  Island,  which  are  practically  inaccessible  except 
between  June  and  October.  Fuji  can  only  be  ascended  during  the  hottest 
period  of  summer. 

1 1 . — ^Provisions. 

Except  at  a  few  of  the  larger  towns  and  favourite  hill  or  sea-side 
resorts,  meat,  bread,  and  the  other  forms  of  European  food  are  unknown. 
Even  chickens  are  but  rarely  to  be  obtained  ;  for  though  plenty  may 
1)6  seen  in  almost  every  village,  the  people  object  to  soil  them — partly 
because  they  keep  them  for  the  sake  of  their  eggs,  partly  on  account 
of  a  lingering  Buddhist  dislike  to  taking  life.  Those,  therefore,  who 
cannot  live  on  the  native  fare  of  rice,  eggs,  and  fish  (tliis,  too,  not  to 
be  counted  on  in  the  mountains),  should  carry  their  own  supplies  with 
them.  Winee,  spirits,  and  cigars  are  equally  unobtainable;  but  beer  is 
to  be  met  with  in  most  towns,  excellent  beer  being  now  brewed  both  at 
Yokohama  {KitinBeer)  and  at  Tokyo  {Yehisu Beer),    It  is  advisable  to 


10  Introduction: — Means  of  Locomotion ;  Luggage, 

take  one  or  two  knives,  forks,  spoons,  a  corkscrew,  a  tin-opener,  and 
most  elementary  cooking  utensils.  Plates  and  glasses  can  be  borrov 
almost  everywhere.  Those  who  are  fairly  easy  to  please  and  who  wisl 
travel  lightly,  can  reduce  the  size  of  their  provision  basket  by  us 
the  rice,  fish,  and  eggs  of  the  country  as  auxiliary  to  what  they  ca 
with  them.  When  starting  off  for  the  first  time,  it  is  best  to  err  on 
side  of  taking  too  much.  Many  who  view  Japanese  food  hopef u 
from  a  distance,  have  found  their  spirits  sink  and  their  tempers  eml 
tered  when  brought  face  to  face  with  its  unsatisfying  .actuality. 

Milk  may  now  sometimes  be  obtained  at  the  towns  along  the  Tokaii 
Nakasendo,  and  other  chief  highways,  but  should  not  be  counted  • 
The  yolk  of  an  egg  beaten  up  is  considered  by  many  to  be  a  gc 
substitute  for  it  in  tea  or  coffee. 

It  is  essential  to  avoid  all  water  into  which  rice-fields  may  ha 
drained.  In  the  plains  all  water  should  be  filtered  and  boiled  bef( 
drinking. 

The  following  Japanese  articles  of  food  are  considered  palatable 
most  foreigners: 

Miso-ahiru^  bean-soup. 

Sakana  no  shio-yahi^  broiled  fish. 

SaJcana  no  tempura^  a  fish  fritter. 

Saki^  a  strong  liquor  made  from  rice  and  generally  taken  hot. 

Tamago-yaki,  a  sort  of  omelette. 

Tori-nabe,  chicken  cut  up  small  and  stewed. 

dshi-nahej  beef  similarly  treated. 

Unagi-meshi,  rice  with  eels  done  in  soy. 


12. — Means  op  Locomotion  ;  Luggaqe. 

Take  the  railway  wherever  available.  On  those  plains  which  i 
railway  yet  traverses,  take  a  jinrikisha.  Avoid  the  native  basl 
(carriage),  if  you  have  either  nerves  to  shatter  or  bones  to  shake,  ar 
be  very  chary  of  burdening  yourself  with  a  horse  and  saddle  of  yoi 
own  in  the  interior,  as  all  sorts  of  troubles  are  apt  to  arise  with  regai 
to  shoeing,  run-away  grooms  (bettos)^  etc.  Such,  in  a  few  words, 
our  advice,  founded  on  long  personal  experience.  Other  possible  coi 
veyances  are  pack-horses  (but  the  Japanese  pack-saddle  is  torture 
cows,  the  kago — a  species  of  small  palanquin,  uncomfortable  at  first,  bi 
not  disliked  by  many  old  residents, — and  lastly  chairs  borne  by  foi 
coolies;  but  these  have  but  recently  been  introduced  from  China,  an 
are  only  found  at  Miyanoshita,  Nikko,  and  a  very  few  other  plact 
much  resorted  to  by  foreigners.  The  pleasantest  sort  of  trip  for 
healthy  man  is  that  in  which  jinrikisha-riding  and  walking  are  con 
bined.  In  the  hilly  districts  which  make  Japan  so  picturesque,  walk 
ing  is  the  only  possible,  or  at  least  the  only  pleasant  method  c 
progression.  The  luggage  is  then  taken  on  a  pack-horse  or  on 
coolie*8  back. 

Persons  intending  to  go  at  all  off  the  beaten  tracks  are  advised  t 
compress  their  luggage  within  narrow  limits.  This  is  specially  necee 
sary  in  the  thinly  populated  mountainous  parts  of  the  country,  wher< 


Means  of  Locomotion ;  lAtggage,  11 

one  coolie — not  improbably  a  grandfather  superannuated  from  regular 
■work — is  often  the  sole  means  of  transport  that  a  village  can  pro- 
duce, all  the  horses  being  generally  with  their  masters  miles  away  in 
the  mountains. 

It  is  always  best  to  avoid  large  boxes  and  portmanteaus,  and  to 
divide  the  luggage  into  two  or  three  smaller  pieces  for  convenience  in 
piling  on  a  coolie's  hod  or  for  balancing  the  two  sides  of  a  pack-horse. 
The.  Japanese  wicker  baskets  called  yanagi-gori  are  much  recommend- 
ed, as  cheap,  portable,  capacious,  and  contractable.  The  yanagi-gori 
(sometimes  called  hori  for  short)  consists  of  an  oblong  basket,  with  a 
second  fitting  over  it  to  any  depth  as  a  cover,  and  is  consequently 
convenient,  not  only  for  clothes  and  books,  but  for  provisions,  since 
the  size  of  the  basket  can  be  diminished  as  the  stores  are  consumed, 
without  there  being  any  empty  space  for  the  remaining  articles  to 
rattle  about  in.  A  pair  of  these  yanagi-gori — one  for  personal  efiEects, 
the  other  for  provisions — should  suffice  to  him  who  intends  to  rough 
it.  They  should  be  provided  with  a  large  wrapper  of  oil-paper 
against  the  rain,  and  fastened  either  with  cords  which  can  be  pro- 
cured anywhere,  or  with  stout  leather  straps. 

As  to  Japanese  roads,  no  general  opinion  can  be  expressed.  Some- 
times excellent  when  first  made,  they  are  often  kept  in  insufficient 
repair.  Travellers  must  therefore  not  be  astonished  if  they  come  across 
roads,  which,  though  mentioned  in  this  work  as  good  for  jinrikishas, 
have  become  almost  impassable  even  for  foot  passengers — the  result  of 
a  single  season  of  frosts  and  typhoons.  The  changes  in  this  respect 
are  in  proportion  to  the  violence  of  the  Japanese  climate.  It  is  further- 
more probable  that  the  distances  given  in  our  itineraries  differ  slightly  in 
some  cases  from  the  actual  truth,  notwithstanding  all  the  care  taken  to 
obtain  as  accurate  information  as  possible.  It  is  hoped,  however,  that 
euch  discrepancies  will  never  be  so  great  as  seriously  to  affect  the  rat- 
veller's  plans.  An  apparent  error  of  \  mile  will  occasionally  be  observed 
in  the  total  mileage  of  the  itineraries.  This  arises  from  the  fact  that  the 
mileage  of  each  stage  of  a  journey  being  given  only  within  \  mile  of 
the  actual  distance,  the  fractional  errors  thus  arising,  though  balanced 
and  allowed  for  as  carefully  as  possible,  sometimes  unavoidably  ac- 
cumulate. *  On  the  other  hand,  the  so-called  total  mileage  is  obtained, 
not  by  adding  up  the  mileage  column,  but  by  direct  calculation 
(also  within  \  mile)  of  the  value  of  the  total  in  ri  and  cho. 

On  the  railroads,  men  desirous  of  practising  economy  will  find  the 
second  class  quite  good  enough,  and  those  who  wish  to  make  a  near 
acquaintance  with  Japanese  life  will  meet  in  the  2nd  class  with  far 
more  subject-matter  for  their  investigations.  But  ladies  are  advised  to 
travel  1st  class,  as  smoking  is  general,  and  the  ways  of  the  Japanese 
lower  middle  class  with  regard  to  clothing,  the  management  of 
children,  and  other  matters,  are  not  altogether  as  our  ways.  On 
some  lines  there  is  a  non-smoking  2nd  class  compartment.  There  are 
as  yet  no  sleeping-cars.  The  Railway  Regulations  permit  holders  of 
tickets  for  distances  of  over  50  miles  to  break  their  journey  at  the 
more  important  places.  Luggage  is  checked  as  in  the  United  States, 
each  passenger  being  allowed  to  carry  a  liberal  amount  free  of 
charge. 


12         Introdution : — Places  Best  Worth  Vistting*     Purchases. 

13. — Places  Best  Worth  Visiting. 

The  choice  of  places  to  be  visited  must  depend  greatly  on  whether 
scenes  of » natural  beauty  or  the  works  of  man  form  the  chief  object 
which  the  tourist  has  in  view,  and  also  to  a  certain  extent  on  considera- 
tions of  health.  Those  who  desire  to  investigate  Buddhist  temples  will 
find  what  they  want  in  fullest  perfection  at  Kyoto,  at  Nara,  at  Tokyo, 
and  at  Nikko.  The  chief  shrines  of  Shintoism  are  at  Ise,  and  at 
Kitsuki  in  the  province  of  Izumo. 

Those  in  search  of  health  and  comparative  coolness  during  the 
summer  months,  to  be  obtained  without  much  "  roughing,"  are  advised 
to  try  Miyanoshita,  Nikko,  orlkao  in  the  Tokyo  district,  Arima  in, the 
Kobe  district,  or  (if  they  come  from  China  and  wish  to  remain  as  near 
home  as  possible)  Unzen  in  the  Nagasaki  district  All  the  above, 
except  Ise  and  Kitsuki,  may  be  safely  recommended  to  ladies.  Yezo 
is  specially  recommended  to  persons  residing  in  Japan  proper,  and 
desiring  thorough  change  of  air.  At  Hakodate  they  will  get  sea- 
bathing, at  Sapporo  they  will  get  fishing  if  they  go  in  June  or  early 
in  July.  But  Japan  is  more  especially  the  happy  hunting-ground  of  the 
lover  of  the  picturesque.  Every  variety  of  scenery,  from  the  gracefully 
lovely  to  the  ruggedly  grand,  is  here  to  be  found.  Of  the  former 
character  are  the  neighbourhood  of  Yokohama  (Kamakura,  Enoshima, 
Kanazawa),  the  whole  Hakone  district,  Fuji  and  its  surrounding  ring 
of  lakes,  Nikko,  Haruna,  the  Inland  Sea,  the  Kiso  valley,  North- 
Eastern  Kyushu,  Matsushima  in  the  North  of  the  Main  Island,  and  many 
more.  Rugged  and  sublime  in  their  character  are  the  Etchu-Hida 
range,  Koma-ga-take  in  Koshu,  the  whole  enormous  mass  of  mountains 
lying  between  the  rivers  Fujikawa  and  Tenryu-gawa,  and  the  district 
near  the  North- Western  coast  including  Mounts  Chokai,  Gwassan,  and 
Haguro-san.  But  the  travelling  amidst  these  rough  mountains  is  itself 
rough  in  the  extreme.  None  but  thoroughly  healthy  men,  inured  to 
hardship,  should  attempt  it. 

As  for  what  is  called  "  seeing  Japanese  life,*'  the  best  plan  is  to  avoid 
the  Open  Ports.  You  will  see  theatres,  wrestling,  dancing-girls,  and 
the  new  Japan  of  European  toilettes  and  uniforms,  political  lectures, 
clubs,  colleges,  hospitals,  and  Methodist  chapels,  in  the  big  cities.  The 
old  peasant  life  still  continues  almost  unchanged  in  the  districts  not 
opened  up  by  railways. 

14. — PuBCHASES,  Objects  op  Aet. 

Travellers  will  find  the  greatest  facilities  for  purchases  of  every  des- 
cription in  the  large  stores  of  Yokohama  and^Kobe.  They  will  also  find 
much  to  attract  them  in  Tokyo,  Kyoto,  Osaka,  and  Nagasaki.  The 
names  of  the  best  shops  are  given  under  each  of  these  towns.  Though 
now  sometimes  sold  in  large  stores,  Japanese  objects  of  art  are  not 
produced  in  large  workshops.  In  old  days,  when  the  best  pieces  were 
made,  few  masters  employed  as  many  as  half  a  dozen  workmen  in 
addition  to  the  members  of  their  own  family,  and  chefs  d^ceuvre  often 
originated  in  humble  dwellings,  where  perhaps  a  single  artisan  laboured 
in  the  most  primitive  style  assisted  by  one  or  two  children.    At  th6 


Objects  of  Art.     Shipment  of  Curios*  1^ 

present  day,  foreign  influence  is  causing  the  gradual  introduction  of 
commercial  principles,  larger  manufactures,  and  splendidly  decked  out 
shop-windows,  but  as  yet  only  in  two  or  three  of  the  larger  towns. 
Even  there,  the  best  things  must  often  be  sought  in  narrow  lanes. 

It  was  also  formerly,  and  is  still  to  some  extent,  characteristic  of  th& 
Japanese  tradesman  and  artisan -artist  to  object  to  bringing  out  hi» 
finest  specimens  at  once.  Tlie  rule  is  that  several  visits  are  necessary 
before  he  will  display  his  choicest  articles,  and  that  even  then  a  long- 
time  must  be  spent  in  bargaining.  A  few  establishments  of  the  more 
modern  sort  have  fixed  prices. 

Japan  is  now  almost  denuded  of  old  curios.  Some  have  found  their 
way  into  the  museums  of  the  country,  while  priceless  collections  have 
crossed  the  sea  to  Europe  and  America.  But  many  of  the  production* 
of  the  present  day  are  eminently  beautiful,  more  especially  the  em- 
broideries and  cloisonrd.  It  is  not  possible  within  the  limits  of  a 
travelling  Handbook  to  enter  into  a  disquisition  on  Japanese  art — its- 
origin,  its  characteristics,  and  the  great  names  that  adorn  its  history. 
A  whole  library  on  this  subject  has  come  into  existence  within  the 
last  decade,  and  the  views  of  connoisseurs  differ  widely  even  on  points 
of  prime  importance.  We  must  content  ourselves  with  mentioning  th& 
names  of  certain  art-forms  unknown  in  Europe,  and  for  most  of  which 
no  appropriate  English  equivalents  exist.  The  objects  embodying 
these  art-forms  will  constantly  come  under  the  traveller's  notice  if  he 
frequents  the  curio  stores.     Such  are 

The  Inro,  a  medicine  box  in  segments,  generally  made  of  lacquer. 
The  segments  are  held  together  by  means  of  a  cord,  to  one  extremity 
of  which  a  netsuke  is  often  attached. 

The  Kakemono  or  banging  scroll,  generally  painted,  sometimes  em- 
broidered. 

The  Koro,  or  incense-burner,  generally  in  bronze  or  porcelain. 

The  Mdkimono,  or  scroll,  not  meant  to  be  hung  up.  It  is  used  chiefly 
for  manuscripts  which  are  often  beautifully  illustrated. 

The  Netsuke^  a  kind  of  ornament  for  the  tobacco-pouch,  carved  out 
of  wood  or  ivory.  Larger  carvings  in  the  same  materials  are  often 
miscalled  netsuke  by  foreign  dealers. 

The  OkimonOj  a  general  name  for  various  snaall  ornaments  having  no 
special  use,  but  intended  to  be  placed  in  an  alcove  or  on  a  cabinet. 

We  may  also  mention  various  gear  appertaining  to  the  Japanese 
sword  and  often  beautifully  wrought  in  metals  and  in  alloys,  of 
which  latter  the  best  known  are  shihu-iehi  and  shakudOj  both  formed 
of  a  basis  of  copper  with  varying  admixtures  of  silver  and  gold. 
Specially  noteworthy  among  these  articles  are  the  tmbay  or  guard,  and 
the  menuki,  small  ornaments  fixed  one  on  each  side  of  the  hilt,  and 
held  in  place  by  the  silk  cord  which  binds  together  the  various  parts  of 
the  bundle. 

15. — Shipment  of  Curios* 

A  reference  to  the  local  Directories  (or  Hong^  Lists,  as  they  ar& 
also  called)  will  furnish  the  names  of  those  firms  in  Yokohama  and 
Kobe  which,  from  tiooe  to  time,  make  a  business  of  shipping  travellers^ 


14  Introduction : — Shootbig,     Fishing, 

purchases  to  Europe,  America,  and  elsewhere.  As  a  rule,  too;  the 
foreign  firms  which  deal  in  curios  will  undertake  to  forward  anything^ 
to  destination.  Remember,  when  sending  a  box  for  shipment  to  a 
shipping  firm,  to  nail  it  down  but  slightly,  as  it  will  he  opened  and 
examined  at  the  Custom-House.  The  shipping  firm  shoirld  be  fur- 
nished with  a  detailed  list  of  the  contents  and  their  value,  and  be 
requested  to  see  to  the  box  being  secured  in  a  more  solid  manner  after 
examination. 

16. — Shooting. 

In  the  mountainous  districts  of  Japan,  especially  in  the  Northern  por- 
tion of  the  Main  Island,  there  are  plenty  of  deer  and  boar,  while  ia 
Yezo  many  bears  still  remain.  Duck  of  various  kinds,  the  green 
pheasant,  quail,  woodcock,  snipe,  and  hares,  are  to  be  found  in  the 
plains  and  on  the  lower  ranges  of  hills  bordering  the  flat  country,  while 
on  somewhat  higher  ground  the  copper-pheasant  has  its  abode  in  the 
thickest  cover.  Japan,  with  its  rich  plains  and  hills  giving  ample 
shelter  to  game,  is  naturally  a  good  sporting  country..  It  would  be 
still  better  if  a  law  were  enforced  giving  protection  to  birds  and  ani- 
mals during  the  breeding  season.  Be  this  as  it  may,  heavy  restrictions 
are  placed  upon  the  foreign  sportsman.  The  license  which  he  has>  to 
obtain  at  a  cost  of  $10  yearly  only  entitles  him  to  shoot  within  a  radius 
of  10  ri  (24J  miles)  from  the  Treaty  Ports  and'  witlun  an  irregular 
boundary  of  less  area  round  Tokyo.  But  the  game  having  been  almost 
entirely  shot  out  within  this  area,  the  majority  of  resident  sportsmen 
have  abandoned  the  field.  In  the  event  of  existing  conditions  being 
replaced  by  others  which  will  allow  foreigners  to  travel  and  shoot  all 
over  Japan,  there  will  be  excellent  sport  for  one  provided  with  good 
dogs  and  not  afraid  of  hard  walking.  Meanwhile,  a  gun-case  k  a 
useless  piece  of  baggage  to  the  foreign  visitor. 

The  shooting  season  begins  on  the  15th  October,  and  ends  oo  the 
14th  April.  Shooting  licenses  may  be  obtained  at  the.  Treaty  Ports 
from  the  Prefecture  (Kencho).  Applications  by  residents  in  Tokyo 
for  shooting  licenses  must  in  the  first  instance  be  made  to  the  Police 
Bureau  (Keishi-cho)  by  letter,  stating  the  full  name,  agey  and  residence 
of  the  applicant,  who  must  afterwards  apply  in  person  for  the  license 
at  the  Chief  Police  OfiQce,  on  being  informed  that  it  has  been  issued. 
The  applicant  has  to  enter  into  a  written  engagement  to  observe  certain 
regulations,  the  violation  of  which  involves  the  forfeiture  of  tlie  license 
and  the  payment  of  a  fine  of  $10  more.  Shooting  beyond  Treaty 
Limits  is  strictly  prohibited. 

17. — ^Fishing. 

Locality,  Fly-fishing  may  be  said  to  be  confined  to  that  portion  of 
the  East  Coast  of  Japan,  North  of  Tokyo,  where  the  water  is  sufficient- 
ly cold  for  salmon  and  trout.  In  Yezo,  the  river  Yurap  on  the  East 
Coast,  and  the  Siiiribetsu  on  the  West  Coast  are  recommended.  Both 
are  in  season  about  June.  In  former  years  good  trout  fishing  was 
obtainable  in  the  river  Toyobira  near  Sapporo  ;  but  owing  to  the  refuse 
from  the  flax  mills  now  established  there  being  allowed  to  discharge 
into  the  stream,  only  few  fish  run  past  it.    Most  of  the  other  rivers 


Miscellaneous  Hints.  15 

of  Y€Zo  and  of  the  Northern  provinces  of  the  Main  Island  contain 
troat.  The  lakes  of  Yezo  also  abound  in  ao-masu  and  ami-mcLsu^  the 
former  a  pink,  the  latter  a  white-fleshed  fish.  These  take  the  fly 
greedily,  and  are  caught  up  to  2  lbs.  in  weight.  Near  Fukuoka  in  the 
province  of  Rikuokn  is  a  good  stretch  of  water,  which  would  probably 
ne  best  worked  by  staying  at  Ichinohe.  These  places  will  be  included 
in  the  Northern  Railway  line  when  the  latter  is  completed.  Farther 
South,  near  Furusawa  and  close  to  the  railway,  is  a  fishing  river  called 
the  Nagagawa,  and  in  the  N.  W.  of  the  Main  Island  the  rivers  Iwaki 
and  Noshiro  are  believed  to  be  worth  a  visit.  Trout  are  also  found  in 
Lakes  Biwa  and  Chu/enji.  Lake  Hakone  also  has  been  recently  stocked. 
Fly-fishers  can  have  good  hope  of  sport  during  June,  July,  and  the 
early  part  of  Au<»u8t.         , 

Fish,  There  are  two  classes  of  sporting  fish, — the  shake,  or  salmon 
as  known  in  Europe,  and  the  masu  {Salmo  japonicus).  The  shake  is  a 
full-sized  salmon,  and  ascends  the  rivers  in  great  quantities  during 
autumn  and  early  winter.  All  the  Northern  rivers  hold  these  fish,  which 
in  Yezo  are  so  plentiful  that  they  fall  an  easy  prey  to  crows  and  bears. 
Many  salmon  must  weigh  ns  much  as  30  lbs.  when  caught ;  but 
tliey  Hfford  no  sport  to  the  angler,  since  like  salmon  in  other  Pacific 
waters,  they  neither  rise  to  a  fly  nor  run  to  a  spinning  bait.  At  new 
year  tlie  shops  in  Tokyo  are  full  of  smoked  shake^  which  have  been 
sent  down  from  the  North. 

Of  the  masu,  there  are  several  varieties  ;  bat  they  are  all  of  the 
trout  or  salmon-trout  description,  and  they  are  all  sporting  fish.  The 
true  masu  run  up  the  rivers  from  May  to  August,  their  ascent  depend- 
ing on  the  temperature  of  the  water.  Between  56°  and  65°  these  fish 
are  in  the  best  condition.  Below  50°  they  are  not  taken.  An  8  lb.  fish 
!«  a  lar^re  one,  the  usual  size  being  5  lb.  or  6  lb. 

Tackle,  Ordinary  salmon  tackle  is  used,  with  flies  of  medium 
salmon  size  and  plenty  of  bright  colour,  especially  orange  and  yellow. 
The  fl}'  is  but  rarely  taken  on  the  surface,  and  should  therefore  be  well 
drowned.  A  rod  of  ahout  16  ft.  is  most  convenient,  as  the  fish  are 
strong  and  the  pools  often  large.  Wading  trousers  are  useful.  Spin- 
ning with  a  spoon-bait  or  a  phantom  minnow  is  often  successful.  In 
Lake  Cliuzenji,  the  fish  are  caught  during  the  summer  months  by 
trolling  from  a  boat  with  60  or  70  yards  of  line  heavily  leaded.  The 
bait  used  is  a  kind  of  Colorado  spoon,  and  can  be  obtained  from  Nishi- 
inura  in  the  Ginza,  Tokyo,  where  also  Japiinese  lines  can  be  had  to 
supplement  the  angler's  gear  for  this  kind  of  fishing. 

Accommodation.  Except  in  Yezo,  fair  accommodation  can  be  had 
everywhere.  In  Yezo  generally  one  must  be  prepared  for  rough 
quarters,  and  many  districts  there  are  quite  uninhabited,  so  that  a 
tent  must  form  part  of  the  sportsman's  outfit  if  he  is  to  be  free  in  his 
movements. 

18. — Miscellaneous  Hints. 

Take  plenty  of  flea-powder  or  camphor  ;  also,  if  going  off  the  beaten 
tracks,  take  soap,  candles,  and  carbolic  acid — the  latter  to  counteract ' 
the  unpleasant  odours  that  often  pervade  Japanese  inns. 


16  Introduction : — Miscellaneous  Hints, 

Tnke  towels,  a  pair  of  sheets,  and  a  pillow,  or  at  least  a  pillow-case 
to  put  on  the  extempore  pillow  which  the  tea-house  people  will  arrange. 
Instead  of  loose  sheets,  souie  prefer  to  sew  two  sheets  together  to  form 
a  bag  which  is  tied  round  the  sleeper's  neck. 

Entrust  your  passport  to  your  guide  or  servant.  This  will  obviate 
interruptions  from  police  officers  at  inconvenient  hours. 

If  your  servant  seems  honest  and  intelligent,  entrust  him  with  money 
for  current  expenses.  This  will  save  a  world  of  petty  bother  and  vexa- 
tion as  to  change,  bargaining,  and  such  matters. 

If  you  have  much  money  with  you,  entrust  it  to  the  host  of  each 
respectable  hotel  you  stop  at,  and  get  his  receipt  for  it. 

Start  early,  and  do  not  insist  on  travelling  after  dark.  You  will 
thus  most  easily  obtain  good  coolies  or  hor^ses  for  the  day's  journey. 
By  arriving  at  your  destination  before  sunset,  you  will  be  likely  to  find 
the  bath  as  yet  unused,  and  will  thus  avoid  tlie  trouble  and  delay  en- 
tailed by  the  necessity  of  having  other  water  heated.  You  will  also 
have  a  choice  of  rooms. 

When  planning  out  your  da)^*s  journey,  allow  an  hour  for  each  ri 
to  be  done  on  foot,  which  should  be  sufficient  to  cover  stoppages 
and  unavoidable  dela3^s.  Ten  ri  (24^  miles)  is  considered  by  the 
Japanese  a  proper  day's  work. 

However  inconvenient  to  yourself,  never  refuse  the  coolies'  request 
to  be  allowed  to  stop  for  food,  as  they  can  do  no  work  on  an  empty 
stomach. 

The  Japanese,  whose  grande  passion  is  bathing,  use  water  at  higher 
temperatures — 110°-120°  Fahrenheit — than  European  physicians,  con- 
sider healthful.  No  one,  however,  will  be  injured  by  taking  baths  of 
between  *100°  and  106°  Fahrenheit,  unless  he  has  a  weak  heart  or  is 
liable  to  congestion.  Owing  to  some  unexplained  peculiarity  of  the 
climate,  hot  baths  are  found  by  almost  all  Europeans  in  Japan  to  suit 
them  better  than  cold.  It  is  advisable  to  pour  hot  water  over  the  head 
from  time  to  time,  and  strong  persons  may  advantageously  end  up 
with  a  cold  douche.  In  any  case  there  is  no  danger  of  catching  cold. 
The  hotter  the  bath,  the  greater  the  impunity  with  which  one  may 
afterwards  expose  one's  self  to  the  cold  air.  The  reason  why  people 
at  borne  entertain  the  notion  that  hot  baths  give  a  chilly  reaction,  is 
that  they  do  not  take  them  hot  enough,  or  do  not  immerse  themselves 
up  to  the  neck.  The  Japanese  have  the  habit,  to  us  disagreeable,  of 
:getting  into  the  same  bath,  one  after  another,  or  even  at  the  same  time. 

Massage  is  much  practised  in  Japan,  and  is  a  capital  restorative 
from  fatigue  after  mountain  climbing.  The  services  of  a  blind  sliam- 
|>ooer  {amma  san)  may  be  obtained  at  almost  every  inn. 

Never  enter  a  Japanese  house  with  your  boots  on.  The  mats  take 
the  place  of  our  chairs  and  sofas.  What  should  we  say  to  a  man  who 
trod  on  our  chairs  and  sofas  with  his  dirty  boots  ? 

It  is  next  to  impossible  to  get  windows  opened  at  night  in  Japanese 
inns.  The  reason  is  that  it  is  considered  unsafe  to  leave  anything 
open  on  account  of  thieves,  and  there  is  a  police  regulation  to  enforce 
closing. 

In  the  event  of  trouble  arising  with  regard  to  accommodation,  the 


Language.  17 

procuring  of  coolies,  etc.,  always  apply  to  the  police,  who  are  almost 
invariabl}^  polite  and  serviceable. 

Take  visiting  cards  with  you.  Japanese  with  whom  you  become 
acquainted  will  often  want  to  exchange  cards. 

Above  all,  be  constantly  polite  and  conciliatory  in  your  demeanour 
towards  'the  people.  Whereas  the  lower  classes  at  home  are  apt  to 
resent  suuve  manners,  and  to  imagine  that  he  who  addresses  them 
politely  wishes  to  deceive  them  or  get  something  out  of  them,  every 
Japanese,  however  humble,  expects  courtesy,  being  himself  courteous. 

Never  show  any  impatience.  You  will  only  get  stared  at  or  laughed 
at  behind  your  back,  and  matters  will  not  move  any  the  quicker  in 
this  land  where  an  hour  more  or  less  is  of  no  account.  The  word 
tadaima,  which  the  dictionaries,  in  tiieir  simplicity,  render  by  "  im- 
mediately," may  mean  any  time  between  now  and  Christmas.  Storm- 
ing will  not  mend  matters,  when  you  find  (to  take  one  instance  out  of 
a  hundred)  that  your  jinrikisha  coolies  wish  to  stop  for  a  meal  just 
after  you  have  started  and  have  been  calculating  that  you  will  arrive 
at  such  and  such  a  place  at  such  and  such  an  hour.  It  is  best  to  resign 
oneself  at  the  beginning,  once  for  all.  While  waiting  patiently,  you 
have  an  opportunity  of  studying  Japanese  life.  Neither  be  moved  to 
anger  because  you  are  asked  personal  questions.  To  ask  such  questions 
is  the  Japanese  way  of  showing  kindly  interest. 

19. — Language. 

Thft  Japanese  language,  though  extremely  difficult  to  learn  correctly, 
is  easy  to  acquire  a  smattering  of ;  and  even  a  smattering  will  add  im- 
mensely to  the  pleasure  of  a  tour  in  the  country,  by  bringing  the 
traveller  into  personal  relations  with  the  people,  and  by  delivering  him 
from  the  constant  tutelage  of  guides  and  interpreters. 

Remember,  in  pronouncing  Japanese,  that  the  consonants  are  to  be 
sounded  approximately  as  in  English,  the  vowels  as  in  Spanish  or 
Italian,  that  is  to  say  : — 

a  as  in  father  i  as  in  pin 

e  as  in  pet  o  as  in  pony 

u  as  in  put 

U  is  sometimes  almost  inaudible,  as  in  arima8(u),  de8(u),  8(u)ko8hi, 
etc.     W  is  often  omitted  after  k  or  g^  as  kashi^  "  cake,"  for  kwashL 

There  is  scarcely  any  tonic  accent ;  in  other  words,  all  the  syllables 
are  pronounced  equally,  or  nearly  so.  But  care  must  be  taken  to  dis- 
tinguish short  o  and  u  from  long  o  and  u.  G  is  always  hard  as  in 
"  give,"  never  soft  as  in  "  gin "  ;  but  in  Eastern  Japan  it  is  pro- 
nounced like  ng  when  in  the  middle  of  a  word. 

The  adjective  precedes  its  noun,  and  the  genitive  precedes  the  nomi- 
native. Prepositions  follow  their  noun,  and  are  therefore  really  "  post- 
positions." The  verb  comes  at  the  end  of  the  sentence.  There  is  no 
distinction  between  singular  and  plural,  or  between  the  difEerent  persons 
in  the  verb. 

The  following  vocabulary  of  words  and  phrases  connected  with  food 
and  travelling  will  be  found  useful.    Those  ambitious  of  learning  more 


18 


In&odiiction : — Language, 


can  provide  themselves  witli  Chamberlain's  "  Handbook  of  Colloquial 
Japanese."  Satow  and  IshibaHhi's  English-Japnnese  pocket  dictionary 
is  excellent.  Hepburn's  pocket  dictionary  is  to  be  recommended  for 
Japanese-English. 


Vocabulary. 

Bag 

fukuro 

Fruit 

mizn-gwashi 

Baggage 

nimotsu 

Grapes 

hudo 

Bath 

furo 

Guide 

annm-sha 

Bathroom 

furo-ha 

Horse 

uma 

Beans 

mame 

Hotel 

yadoya 

Bed 

nedai 

Ice 

'kori 

Bed -room 

nema^  nebeya 

Inn 

yadoya 

Beer 

biiru 

Kitchen 

daidokoro 

Bell 

kane 

Knife 

hocho 

Blanket 

furanken,  ketto 

Lemon 

yvzu 

Boat 

fune 

Lemonade 

ramune 

Boatman 

sendo 

Luggage 

nimotsu 

Bottle 

tokkuri 

Lunch 

hiru  gozen 

Box 

hako 

Mat 

tatami 

Brazier 

hihachi 

Match 

haya-tsukegi 

Bread 

pan 

Matting 

goza 

Breakfast 

asa^han 

Moat 

niku 

Bridge 

hashi 

Melon  (musk-) 

makuvoa-uri 

Cake 

kxjoashi 

„     (water-) 

suikwa 

Carriage 

hasha 

Milk 

chichi 

Charcoal 

8umi 

Money 

kane^  kinsu 

Chicken 

niwatori 

Mosquito-net 

kaya 

Chopsticks 

hashi 

Mustard 

karashi 

Coachman 

gyosha 

Napkin 

kuchi-fuki 

Coffee 

kohiy  kahe 

Oil 

abura 

Coolie 

ninsoku 

Omnibus 

nori-ai-hasha 

Cucumber 

ki-uri 

Onions 

negi 

Dining-room 

shokudo 

Orange 

mikan 

Dinner  (late) 

yushoku 

Oyster 

kaki 

Door 

to 

Pass  (between 

tdge 

Downstairs 

shita 

mountains) 

Driver 

gyosha 

Passport 

(ryokd-)menjd 

Duck  (tame) 

ahiru 

Peach 

momo 

Duck  (wild) 

karao 

Pear 

na.sh.i 

Eels 

unagi 

Peas 

endo-mame 

Egg 

tamago 

Pepper 

kosho 

Egg-plant 

nasu 

Persimmon 

kaki 

Feast 

gochiso 

Pheasant 

kiji 

Ferry 

funa-watashi 

Plum 

sumomo 

Fish 

sakana 

Post-office 

yubin-kyoku 

Food 

tahemono 

Potatoes 

imo 

Food  (foreign) 

yoshoku 

„     (sweet) 

satsuma-imo 

Fork 

niku-sashi 

Quail 

uzura 

Fowl 

tori 

Railway 

tetsudo 

Language. 


19 


Bailway  train 

kisha 

Tomato 

ai(;a-na«2i 

Bice  (boiled) 

meshif  gozen 

Tooth-pick 

koydji 

Boom 

heya^  zaahiki 

Towel 

te-nugui 

Salmon 

shake 

Train 

kisha 

Salmon  trout 

masu 

Tramway 

tetsvdo-basha 

Salt 

shio 

Trout 

aiy  yamame 

Sardine 

iwashi 

Tunnel 

ana 

Ship 

fune 

Turnip 

kabu 

Snipe 

shigi 

Upstairs 

nikai 

Soap 

shahon 

Vegetables 

yasai 

Soap 

soppu 

Vinegar 

su 

Soy 

shoyu 

Waiter  I 

boy! 

Spinach 

horensd 

Waitress  I 

msan  ! 

Spoon 

saji 

Water  (cold) 

mizu 

Stamp  (postage)  yubin-gitte^  inshi 

Water  (hot) 

yu,  0  yu 

Steamer 

jokisen 

Water-closet 

benjOf  chozuba 

Strawberries 

ichigo 

Window 

mado 

Sagar 

Sato 

Wine 

budoshu 

Sapper 

yumeski 

I 

watakmhi 

Tea 

chay  0  cha 

You 

anatxiy  omae 

Tea-hoase 

chaya 

He 

ano  otoko 

Telegram 

dempo 

She     , 

ano  onna 

Telegraph-office  denshin-hyohu 

It 

sore 

Ticket 

kippu 

We 

watakushi 

Ticket  (return)  ohen-gippu              1 

They 

ano  hitO'tachi 

1    hiiotsu 

No.  1     ichi'ban 

2   futatsu 

,    2     ni-ban 

3    mitsu 

,    3    sam-ban 

4    yotsu 

,     4    yo-ban 

5    itsutau 

,    5    go-ban^ 

6    mutsu 

,     6    roku-ban 

7    nanatsu                               \ 

,     7    shichi-ban 

8    yatsu 

,    8    hachi-ban 

9    kokonotsu 

,     9    ku'ban 

10    to 

1 

,  10   ju-ban 

20    ni-ju 

50    go'jii 

i                       80 

hachiju 

30    san-ju 

60    roku 

ju                     90 

ku'ju 

40    8hi-ju 

70    shich 

i-ju                 100 

hyaku 

$  1     ichi-en 

$  2    ni-en 

10  cents   jis-sen 

Ist  class   jbto 

20  cfents    ni-jis-aen 

2nd    „ 

chuto 

30  cents    san-jis-sen 

3rd    „ 

kato 

Many  of  our  words  have  no  Japanese  equivalents,  because  the  things 
for  which  they  stand  are  not  known  in  Japan.  Such  are,  for  instance, 
jam,  lamb,  tin-opener.  The  following  Japanese  words,  for  which  there 
are  no  exact  English  equivalents,  are  constantly  heard  in  travelling  : 

Bento,  luncheon  carried  with  one. 
Bentd-bako,  a  box  to  hold  such  luncheon. 


20 


Introduction : — Language. 


Betto,  a  rnnning  groom. 

Kago,  a  kind  of  basket  or  litter  in  which  travellers  are  carried. 

Yanagi-gori,  a  very  usefal  sort  of  trunk  made  of  wicker-work. 


Useful  Sentences. 


Please  come  here. 
That  will  do. 
Thank  yotr. 
How  do  you  do  ? 
What  o'clock  is  it  ? 
Good  night. 
Don't  do  that. 
That  won't  do. 
Is  that  all  right  ? 
Please  excuse  me. 
You  had  better  go  and  ask. 
Where  is  it  ? 
I  don't  know. 
Wait  a  little. 
Go  more  quickly. 
I  mean  to  start  at  7  o'clock  to- 
morrow morning. 
Is  the  luggage  ready  ? 

Please  take  care. 

Is  nothing  forgotten  ? 

Please  order  the  jinrikishas. 

Please  order  three  jinrikishas  with 
two  men  each. 

We  will  start  as  soon  as  every- 
thing is  ready. 

What  18  this  place  called  ? 

What    is    the    name    of    that 

mountain  ? 
How  far  is  it  to  the  next  town  ? 

Please  to  accept  this  small  offer- 
ing lis  tea-money. 

Many  thanks  for  your  trouble. 

I  will  rest  a  little. 

Please  engage  a  coolie  to  carry 
the  luggage. 

What  is  the  charge  per  ri  ? 

Which  is  the  best  hotel  ? 

Have  you  any  rooms  ? 
Have  you  any  beer  ? 


Oide  noMLu 

Mb  yoroshiii 

Arigaio. 

Konnichi  toa  I 

Nan-doki  desu  ha  f 

0  yasumt  nasai. 

So  shicha  ikenai. 

Sore  ja  ikenai. 

Sore  de  yoroshii  ka  f 

Gomen  nasai. 

Elite  kuru  ga  it, 

Doko  desuf 

Shirimasen, 

Sukoshi  mate. 

Hayaku  !  hayaku  ! 

Myo-asa  shichi-ji  m,  shuttateu  ski- 

masu, 
Nimotsu  no  shitaku  toa^  yoroshii 

kaf 
Ki  wo  tsukete  kvdasai. 
Wasure-mono  wa  nai  ka  f 
Kuruma  no  shitaku  too,  shite  ku- 

dasai. 
Ni-nin-biki  ujo,  san-cho  atsuraete 

kvdasai. 
Shitaku  shidaif  dekakemasho. 

Koko  wa^  nan  to  iu  tokoro  desu 

kaf 
A  no  yama  wa^  nan  to  iimasu  ka  f 

Koko  hara^  saki  no  shuku  made^ 

ri-su  wa  dono  kurai  desu  f 
Kore  vHi  sukoshi  desu  ga,  o  char 

dai  desu, 
O  sewa  ni  narimashita, 
Sukoshi  yasumimasho. 
Nimotsu  no  ninsoku  wo,  yatotte 

kudasau 
Ichi-ri  ikura  no  wari  desu  ka  f 
Yado  wa,  nani-ya  ga   yoroshii 

kaf 
Zashiki  wa^  arimaMu  ka  f 
Biiru  loa,  arimasu  ka  f 


Tlie  Shinto  Religion, 


21 


Have  you  change  for  a  dollar  ? 

This  room  will  do. 

Is  the  bath  ready  ? 

Let  me  know  when  it  is  ready. 

Can  you  give  us  European  food  ? 

Please  let  me  look  at  it. 

Are  there  any  mosquitoes  here  ? 

I  suppose  you  haven't  bedsteads, 

have  you  ? 
Please  let  me  have  more  quilts. 

I  am  going  by  the  first  train 

to-morrow  morning. 
At  what  o'clock  does  the  first 

train  start  ? 
Please  wake  me  early. 
Shall  we  be  in  time  r 
I  don't  want  a  lamp. 
Please  bring  a  candle. 
Where  is  the  W.G.? 
Please  show  me  the  way. 
Where  is  the  ticket- office  ? 

Where  is  the  Telegraph  Office  ? 

(Give  me)  one  1st  class  ticket  to 

Nikko. 
Please  book    this    laggage    for 

Nikko. 
Where  do  we  change  carriages  ? 

How  many  hours  does  it  take  to 

get  to  Nagoya  ? 
Please  bring  the  account. 
Please  give  me  some  water. 

Please  give  me  some  more. 
Please  take  away  these  tilings. 
How  much  is  it  ? 
That  is  too  dear. 
You   must  go  down  a  little  in 
price. 


Ichi-en  no  tsuri  wa^  arimasu  ha  f 
Kono  zashiki  de  yoroshii. 
Furo  ga  dekimashita  ha  f 
Dehitara^  shirashite  hudusai, 
Ybshohu  ga  dehimasu  ha  f 
Mifiete  hudaaaL 

Kono  hen  toa,  ha  ga  imasu  ha  f 
Nedai  wa  arimasumai^ — ne  t 

Shihi-huton  wOj  motto  hiite  huda- 

sai. 
Myonichi  toa^   ichi-han-hisha  de 

ihimasu. 
Ichi-banhisha  wa^  nan-ji  desu  f 

Hayahu  ohoshite  htcdasai. 
Ma  ni  aimasu  ha  f 
Rampu  wa^  irimasen. 
jRosohu  wo^  motte  hite  hudasai. 
Benjo  loa,  dochira  desu  t 
Chotto  annai  shite  hiukbsai, 
Kippu  wo  uru  tohoro  wa^  doho 

desu  ha  f 
Denshin-hyohu  wa^  dochira  desu 

ha  f 
Kihkb  made,  jotb  ichi-mai. 

Kore  dahe  no  nimotsu  wo^   Nihho 

mxide. 
Doho  no  ^^ station"  de  nori-hae- 

masu  ha  f 
Nagoya  made^  nan-Ji-han  hahari- 

masuf 
Doha^  hanjo-gahi  vx>. 
Mizu  wo  ippai  (motte  hite  huda- 

sai). 
Motto  hudasai. 
Kore  wo  sagete  hudasai. 
Ikwra  desu  ? 
Sore  wa  tahai, 
Suhoshi  0  maJce  nasai. 


20. — The  Shinto  Religion. 

Thb  Japanese  have  two  religions,  Siiintd  and  Biiddiiism — the  former 
indigenous,  the  latter  imported  from  India  vi&  China  and  Korea  ;  but 
it  must  not  be  supposeil  that  the  nation  is  therefore  divided  into  two 
distinct  sections,  each  professing  to  observe  one  of  tiiese  exclusively. 
On  the  contrary,  the  two  are  so  thoroughly  interfused  in  practice,  that 


22  Introduction : — The  Shinto  Religion, 

the  n amber  of  pare  Shintdists  and  pure  Buddhists  must  be  extreir 
sma]l.  The  only  exception  is  the  province  of  Satsuma,  from  wl 
the  Buddhist  priesthood  has  been  excluded  ever  since  some  of  tl 
number  betrayed  the  local  chieftain  into  the  hands  of  Hideyo 
Every  Japanese  from  his  birth  is  placed  by  his  parents  under  the  ] 
tection  of.  some  Shinto  deity,  whose  foster-child  he  becomes,  w 
the  funeral  rites  are  conducted,  with  few  exceptions,  according  to 
ceremonial  of  the  Buddhist  sect  to  which  his  family  belongs.  I 
only  in  recent  years  that  burial  according  to  the  ancient  ritual  of 
Shintoists  has  been  revived,  after  an  almost  total  disuse  during  sc 
twelve  centuries.  This  apparently  anomalous  condition  of  things  ii 
be  explained  by  the  fact  that  the  Shinto  religion  demands  little  m 
of  its  adherents  than  a  visit  to  the  local  temple  on  the  occasion  of 
annual  festival,  and  does  not  profess  to  teach  any  theory  of  the  dest 
of  man,  or  of  moral  duty,  thus  leaving  the  greater  part  of  the  fi 
free  to  the  priests  of  Buddha,  with  their  apparatus  of  theologi 
dogma  aided  by  a  splendid  ritual  and  gorgeous  decorations.  Mu 
tudinous  as  are  its  own  deities,  Buddiiism  found  no  difficulty 
receiving  those  of  the  indigenous  belief  into  its  pantheon,  this  cath 
city  having  been  previously  displayed  with  regard  to  Hindoo  deil 
and  other  mythological  personalities.  In  most  cases  it  was  pretenc 
that  the  native  gods  were  merely  avatars  of  some  Indian  deity  ;  e 
thus  it  was  possible  for  those  who  became  converts  to  the  forei 
doctrine  to  continue  to  believe  in  and  offer  up  prayers  to  their  anci 
gods  as  before. 

Shinto  is  a  compound  of  ancestor-worship  and  nature-worship, 
has  gods  and  goddesses  of  the  wind,  the  ocean,  fire,  food,  and  pei 
lence,  of  mountains  and  rivers,  of  certain  special  mountains,  cerfc 
rivers,  certain  trees,  certain  temples, — eight  hundred  myriads  of  deit 
in  all.  Chief  among  these  is  Ama-terasu,  the  radiant  Goddess  of  1 
Sun,  born  from  the  left  eye  of  Izanagi,  the  Creator  of  Japan,  wh 
from  his  right  eye  was  produced  the  God  of  the  Moon,  and  from  1 
nose  the  violent  God  Susa-no-o,  who  subjected  his  sister  to  vario 
indignities  and  was  chastised  accordingly.  The  Sun-Goddess  was  t 
ancestress  of  the  line  of  heaven-descended  Mikados,  who  have  reign 
in  unbroken  succession  from  the  beginning  of  the  world,  and  s 
themselves  living  deities.  Hence  the  Sun-Goddess  is  honoured  abo 
all  the  rest,  her  shrine  at  Ise  being  the  Mecca  of  Japan.  Other  shrin 
hold  other  gods,  the  deified  ghosts  of  princes  and  heroes  of  eld,  sor 
commanding  a  wide  popularity,  others  known  only  to  narrow  loc 
fame,  most  of  them  tended  by  hereditary  families  of  priests  believ 
to  be  lineal  descendants  either  of  the  god  himself  or  of  his  chi 
servant.  From  time  to  time  new  names  are  added  to  the  pantheo 
The  present  reign  has  witnessed  several  instances  of  such  apotheos 
Indeed,  the  present  reign  stands  out  as  a  season  of  special  offici 
favour  to  the  Shinto  cult,  numbers  of  temples  that  had  for  centuri 
been  devoted  to  a  hybrid  between  Shinto  and  Buddhism,  known 
Ryobu'Shinto^  having  been,  as  it  is  termed,  "  purified  "  from  Buddhi 
"contamination,"  and  handed  over  to  the  exclusive  keeping  of  tl 
Shintoists.  This  so-called  purification  has  consisted  in  the  effacing  i 
the  Buddhist  architectural  and   other  artistic  embellishments  whi( 


^'>5^ 


^<^ 


The  Shinto  Religion.  23 

made  the  temples  most  worth  visiting,  and  not  infrequently  in  the 
destruction  of  the  entire  edifice. 

Shinto  has  ecarcely  any  regular  services  in  which  the  people  take 
part,  and  its  priests  (kannushi)  are  not  distinguishable  by  their  ap- 
pearance from  ordinary  laymen.  Only  when  engaged  in  offering  the 
morning  and  evening  sacrifices  do  they  wear  a  peculiar  dress  of  their 
own.  This  consists  of  a  long  loose  gown  with  wide  sleeves,  fastened 
at  the  waist  with  a  girdle,  and  sometimes  a  black  cap  bound  round  the 
bead  with  a  broad  white  fillet.  The  priests  are  not  bound  by  any 
vows  of  celibacy,  and  are  free  to  adopt  another  career  whenever  they 
choose.  At  some  temples  young  girls  fill  the  office  of  priestesses; 
but  their  duties  do  not  extend  beyond  the  performance  of  the  panto- 
mimic dances  known  as  hagyra^  and  assistance  in  the  presentation  of  the 
daily  offerings.  They  likewise  are  under  no  vows,  and  marry  as  a 
matter  of  course.  The  services  consist  in  the  presentation  of  offerings 
of  rice,  fish,  fruits,  vegetables,  the  flesh  of  game,  animals,  and  rice- 
beer,  and  in  the  recital  of  certain  formal  addresses,  partly  laudatory 
and  partly  in  the  nature  of  petitions.  The  style  of  composition  em- 
ployed is  that  of  a  very  remote  period,  and  would  not  be  comprehended 
by  the  common  people,  even  if  the  latter  were  in  the  habit  of  taking 
any  part  in  the  ritual.  With  moral  teaching,  Shinto  does  not  profess  to 
concern  itself.  '  Follow  your  natural  impulses,  and  obey  the  Mikado's 
decrees  :'  such  is  the  sum  of  its  theory  of  human  duty.  The  sermon 
forms  no  part  of  its  institutions,  nor  are  the  rewards  and  punishments 
of  a  future  life  used  as  incentives  to  right  conduct.  The  continued 
existence  of  the  dead  is  believed  in,  but  whether  it  is  a  condition  of  joy 
or  pain  is  nowhere  revealed. 

Shinto  is  a  Chinese  word,  meaning  the  *  Way  of  the  Gods,'  and  was 
first  adopted  after  the  introduction  of  Buddhism  to  distinguish  the 
native  beliefs  and  practices  from  those  of  the  foreign  religion. 

The  architecture  of  Shinto  temples  is  extremely  simple,  and  the 
material  used  is  plain  white  wood  with  a  thatch  of  chamaBcyparis 
bark.  The  annexed  plan  of  the  Great  Temple  of  Izumo  {Izumo  no 
0-yaiihiro\  taken  from  a  native  drawing  sold  to  pilgrims,  and  printed 
on  Japanese  paper  (mino-gami)  after  the  usual  fashion  of  such  me- 
mentos, will  serve  to  exemplify  this  style  of  architecture.  Few  Shinto 
temples,  however,  are  quite  so  elaborate  as  this,  the  second  holiest  in 
the  Empire.     We  find  then  : — 

1.  The  Main  Shrine  (honsha  or  konden)^  which  is  divided  into  two 
chambers.  The  rear  chamber  contains  the  emblem  of  the  god  (mi- 
iama'Shiro) — a  mirror,  a  sword,  a  curious  stone,  or  some  other  object 
— and  is  always  kept  closed,  while  in  the  antechamber  stands  a  wand 
from  which  depend  strips  of  white  paper  intended  to  represent  the 
cloth  offerings  of  ancient  times.  The  mirror  which  is  seen  in  the 
front  of  not  a  few  temples  was  borrowed  from  the  Shingon  sect  of 
Buddhists,  and  has  nothing  to  do  with  the  Shinto  Sun-Goddess,  as  is 
often  supposed. 

2.  An  Oratory  (haiden)  in  front  of  the  main  building,  with  which 
it  is  sometimes,  but  not  in  the  case  of  the  Izumo  temple,  connected 
by 

3.  A  Corridor  or  Gallery   (ai-no-ma).    A  gong  often  hangs  over 


24  Introdtu:tion : — Japanese  Buddhism^ 

the  entrance  of  the  Oratory,  for  the  worshipper  to  attract  the  attention 
of  the  god,  and  beneath  stands  a  large  box  to  receive  contribations. 

4.  A  Cistern  (mitarashi)  at  which  to  wasli  the  hands  before  prayer. 

5.  A  low  Wall,  or  rather  Fence  (tama-gakij  lit.  jewel  hedge),  en- 
closing the  chief  temple  buildings. 

6.  A  second  Enclosing  Fence,  often  made  of  boards  and  therefore 
termed  ita-gakL 

7.  A  peculiar  Gateway  (Jtorii)  at  the  entrance  to  the  grounds.  Some- 
times there  are  several  of  these  gateways.  Their  origm  and  significa- 
tion are  alike  unknown. 

8.  A  Temple  Office  (shamusho)^  where  the  business  of  the  temple  is 
transacted,  and  where  some  of  the  priests  often  reside. 

9.  Secondary  Slirines  (sessha  or  maasha)  scattered  about  the  grounds, 
and  dedicated  not  to  the  deity  worshipped  at  the  main  shrine,  but  to 
other  members  of  the  crowded  pantheon. 

10.  A  Library  (bunko).    This  item  is  generally  absent. 

11.  A  Treasure-house  (hdzo), 

12.  One  or  more  Places  for  Offerings  (shinaenjo). 

13.  A  Gallery  (ktoairo). 

14.  A  Dancing-stage  {bugaku-dai).  A  more  usual  form  of  this  is 
the  kagura-dOf  or  stage  for  the  performance  of  the  kagura,  an  ancient 
symbolic  dance. 

15.  A  Stable  in  which  is  kept  the  Sacred  Horse  (jimme),  usually 
an  albino  animal. 

16.  An  Assembly  Hall.    This  is  generally  missing. 

17.  Gates. 

Frequently  there  is  some  object  of  minor  sanctity,  such  as  a  holy 
well,  a  curious  tree,  the  image  of  the  bull  on  which  the  god  Tenjin 
rode,  etc. 

The  curiously  projecting  ends  of  the  rafters  on  the  roof  of  the 
honsha  are  termed  chigu .  The  cigar-shaped  logs  are  termed  hatsuo- 
gu  Both  these  ornaments  are  derived  from  the  architecture  of  the 
primitive  Japanese  hut,  the  katsuogi  having  formerly  served  to  keep 
in  place  the  tw^o  trunks  forming  the  ridge  of  the  roof. 

Shinto  temples  built  during  the  period  of  the  predominance  of 
Buddhism  often  show  such  traces  of  Buddhist  influence  as  the  pagoda, 
the  handsome  mmmon^  or  outer  gate,  and  elaborate  carvings  utterly 
repugnant  to  the  Shinto  purists  of  the  present  century.  The  two 
figures  with  bows  and  arrows,  seated  in  niclies  right  and  left  of  the 
gate  to  keep  guard  over  the  approach  to  the  temple,  are  called  Zuijin, 
or  "attendants,"  more  popularly  Ya-daijin^  or  "ministers  with  arrows." 
The  stone  figures  of  dogs — or  lions  as  some  suppose  them  to  be — 
which  are  often  found  in  the  temple  grounds,  are  called  Ama-inu  and 
Koma-inu,  lit.  "  the  heavenly  dog  "  and  "  the  Korean  dog."  They  are 
credited  with  the  power  of  driving  off  demons. 

21. — Japanese  Buddhism. 

Buddhism,  in  its  Chinese  form,  first  entered  Japan  via  Korea  in  the 
6th  century  of  the  Christian  era,  the  first  Japanese  pagoda  having  been 
erected  about  A.D.  584  by  one  Soga-no-Iname.    The  Constantine  of 


Japanese  Buddhism.  25 

Japanese  Buddhism  was  Shotoka  Taislii)  prince  regent  under  the  Em- 
press Suiko  (A.D.   593-621),   from   whose  time   many   of  the  most 
celebrated  temples  date.     Tiience  for  ward,   though   Shinto   was   never 
entirely   suppressed,    Buddhism    became   for  centuries   the  favourite 
national  religion,  appealing  as  it  did   to  the  deepest  instincts  of  the 
human  heart,  both  by  its  doctrine  and  by  it§  ritual,  in   a   way   which 
Shinto  could   never  emulate.     Buddhism    was  adopted   by  the  very 
Mikudos,  descendants  of  the  Shinto  Goddess  of  the  Sun.     During  the 
6th,    7th,   and  8th  centuries,  Korean  and   Chinese  monks  and   nuns 
visited  Japan  for  purposes  of  proselytism,  much  as  Christian  mission- 
aries visit  it  to-day.     From  the  8th  century  onwards,  it  became  more 
usual  for  the  Japanese  monks  to  visit  China  to  study  the  doctrines  of 
the  best-accredited  teachers  at  the  fountain-head.    From  these  histori- 
cal circumstances  results  the  general  adhesion  of  the  Japanese  Bud- 
dhists to  the  Chinese,  Northern,  or  "  Greater  Vehicle  *'   school  of  that 
religion.    It  must  not  be  supposed,  however,  that  all  Japanese  Bud- 
dhists agree  among  themselves.^  Buddhism  was  already  over  a  thousand 
years  old  when  introduced  into  this  archipelago,  and  Chinese  Buddhism, 
in  particular,  was  split  into  numerous  sects  and  sub-sects,  whose  quar- 
rels took  new  root  on  Japanese  soil.    Some  of  the  Ciiinese  sects  of  that 
early  day  still  survive.    Such  are  the  Tendai  and  the  Shingon,     Others, 
notably  the  Nichiren  and  Shin  sects,  are  later  Japanese  developments. 
The  following  are  the  chief  sects  existing  at  the  present  day  : — 

Tendai  (3  sub-sects). 
Shingon  (2  sub-sects). 
Jodo  (3  sub- sects). 

CRinzai  (9  sub-sects), 
^n,  divided  into  <  Soto. 

(  Obaku, 
Shin,  MontOy  or  Ihko  (10  sub-sects). 
Nichiren  or  Hokke  (7  sub-sects). 
Ji,  % 

Yuzu  Nemhutsu. 

The  points  in  dispute  between  the  various  sects  and  sub-sects  are 
highly  metaphysical  and  technical — so  much  so  that  Mr.  Satow,  speak- 
ing of  tlie  Shingon  sect,  asserts  that  its  "  whole  doctrine  is  extremely 
difficult  to  compreiiend,  and  more  difficult  to  put  into  intelligible 
language."  Of  another  sect  he  tells  us  that  its  *Miighest  truths  are 
considered  to  be  incomprehensible,  except  to  those  who  have  attained 
toBuddhaship."® 

Under  these  circumstances,  the  general  reader  will  perhaps  do  best 
simply  to  fix  in  his  mind   the  following  few  cardinal  facts : — that 

*  The  following  may  serve  as  a  specimen  of  the  difficulties  to  be  encountered  in  this 
study  :—**  The  doctrine  of  the  sect  is  compared  to  a  piece  of  cloth,  in  which  the  teach- 
ing 6t  Shaka  is  the  warp,  and  the  interpretation  or  private  judgment  of  the  individual, 
corrected  by  the  opinion  of  other  monks,  is  the  woof.  It  is  held  that  there  is  a  kind 
of  intuition  or  perception  of  truth,  called  8hin-gy6  suggested  by  the  words  of  scripture, 
but  transcending  them  in  certainty.  This  is  said  to  to  in  harmony  with  the  thought 
of  Shaka.  The  entirety  of  doctrine,  however,  results  in  one  central  truth,  namely 
that  Nirvftna  is  the  final  result  of  existence,  a  state  in  which  the  thinking  substance, 
while  remaining  individual,  is  unaffected  by  anything  external,  and  is  consequently 
devoid  of  feeling,  thought,  or  passion.  To  this  the  name  of  Mu-i  (Asamskrita)  is 
given,  signifying  absolute,  unconditioned  existence.    When  this  is  spoken  of  as  an* 


r 

26  Introdiuition : — Japanese  Buddhism. 

Buddhism  arose  in  India,  some  say  in  the  7th,  others  in  the  11 
century  before  Christ ;  that  its  founder  was  the  Buddha  Shaka  Mu 
a  prince  of  the  blood  royal,  who,  disenchanted  first  of  worldly  pleasu 
and  then  of  the  austerities  which  he  practised  for  long  years  in  i 
Himalayan  wilderness  under  the  guidance  of  the  most  self-denyi 
anchorites  of  his  time,  at  length  felt  dawn  on  his  mind  the  truth  tl 
all  happiness  and  salvation  come  from  within,-~come  from  the  reoog^i 
tion  of  the  impermanence  of  all  phenomena,  from  the  extinction 
desire,  which  is  at  the  root  of  life,  life  itself  being  at  the  root  of  i: 
happiness  and  imperfection.  Asceticism  still  reigned  supreme  ;  but 
was  asceticism  rather  of  the  mind  than  of  outward  observances,  ai 
its  ultimate  object  was  absorption  into  Nirv&na,  which  some  interpi 
to  mean  annihilation,  while  others  describe  it  as  a  state  in  which  t 
thinking  substance,  after  numerous  transmigrations  and  progressi 
sanctification,  attains  to  perfect  beatitude  in  serene  tranquillity.  Pra 
tical  Buddhism,  both  in  China  and  Japan,  has  been  unable  to  mainta 
itself  at  these  philosophic  heights,  and  by  the  aid  of  the  doctrine  of  hobe 
or  "  pious  frauds,"  the  priesthood  has  played  into  the  hands  of  popuL 
superstition.  Here  as  elsewhere  there  have  been  evolved  charm 
amulets,  pilgrimages,  and  gorgeous  temple  services,  in  which  peop 
worship  not  only  the  Buddha  who  was  himself  an  agnostic,  but  h 
disciples  and  even  such  abstractions  as  Amida,  which  are  mistaken  f( 
actual  divine  personages. 

Annexed  is  the  plan  of  the  temple  of  Hommonji  at  Ikegami  nes 
Tokyo,  which  may  be  regarded  as  fairly  typical  of  Japanese  Buddhif 
architecture.  The  roofing  of  these  temples  is  generally  of  tiles,  f  ormin 
a  contrast  to  the  primitive  thatch  of  their  Shinto  rivals.  The  chie 
features  are  as  follows  : 

1.  The  SamTnoTij  or  two-storied  Qate,  at  the  entrance  to  the  tempi 
grounds. 

2.  The  Ema-ddy  or  Ex-voto  Hall,  also  sometimes  called  Gahu-do. 

3.  The  Shdro,  or  Belfry.  # 

4.  The  Hondo^  or  Main  Temple. 

5.  The  Soshi-ddy  or  Founder's  Hall,  dedicated  to  Nichiren,  th 
founder  of  the  sect  to  which  this  temple  belongs. 

6.  The  Taho-tOy  or  Pagoda-shaped  Reliquary,  containing  portions  o 
Nichiren's  body. 

7.  The  RinzOy  or  Revolving  Library,  containing  a  complete  copy  c 
the  Buddhist  canon. 

8.  The  Shoiuy  also  called  Zashikiy  or  Priests*  Apartments,  includin, 

nihilation,  it  is  the  annihilation  of  conditions,  not  of  the  snbstanoe,  that  is  mean 
Pushed  to  its  logical  result,  this  would  appear  to  the  ignorant  (i.e.,  the  unregeneratf 
to  amount  to  the  same  thing  as  non-existence ;  but  here  we  are  encountered  l^  on 
of  those  mysteries  which  lie  at  the  foundation  of  all  religious  beUef ,  and  which  mni 
be  accepted  without  questioning,  if  there  is  to  be  any  spiritual  religion  at  all.  . 
follower  of  Herbert  Spencer  would  probably  object  that  this  is  an  '  ill^timate  syn 
bolical  conception.' 

"  Ignorant  and  obtuse  minds  are  to  be  taught  by  kohent  that  is  by  the  presentatio 
of  truth  under  a  form  suited  to  their  capacity.  For  superior  intellects  tihaka,  auittin 
the  symbolic  teaching  appropriate  to  the  vernacular  understanding,  revealed  tb 
truth  in  itself.  Whoever  can  apprehend  the  Ten  Abstract  Truths  in  their  prpp< 
order  may,  after  four  successive  births,  attain  to  perfect  Buddhaship,  while  the  ii 
f erior  intelligence  can  onlv  arrive  at  that  condition  after  100  Kalptu,  or  periods  of  tin 
ferazuMsending  calculation/'— (Satow.) 


1/    ^^    '>'v'i^\-i^ 


LfciasTT.  „',««■ 


List  of  Gods  and  Goddesses,  27 

9.  The  Kyaku-den^  or  Reception  Rooms. 
10..  The  Hozo^  or  Treasure-house. 

11.  The  Daidokoro,  or  Kitchen. 

12.  The  Chozu-bachif  or  Cistern  for  washing  the  hands  before 
wornhip. 

13.  The  Drum-tower  (Koi^o). 

14.  The  Pagoda. 

15.  Stone  Lanterns  presented  as  offerings. 

All  temples  do  not  possess  a  Founder's  Hall  in  addition  to  the  Main 
Temple,  and  very  few  possess  a  Tdhd-to  or  a  Rimo.  In  the  temples  of 
the  Monto  or  Hongwanji  sect,  wliich  always  comprise  two  cliief  edifices, 
the  larger  of  the  two  unites  in  itself  the  functions  of  Main  Temple  and 
Founder's  Hall,  while  the  lesser,  with  which  it  is  connected  by  a 
gallery,  is  sometimes  specially  dedicated  to  Amida^  the  deity  chiefly 
worshipped  by  this  sect,  and  is  sometimes  used  for  preaching  sermons 
in,  whence  the  name  of  Jiki-doj  or  Refectory,  alluding  to  the  fact  that 
sermons  are  food  for  the  soul. 


22. — List  op  Gods  and  Goddesses. 

The  following  are  the  most  popular  deities,  Buddhist  and  Shinto.  We 
place  them  together  in  one  list,  because  all  through  Japanese  history 
there  has  been  not  a  little  confusion  between  the  two  religions  : — 

Aizen  My  do,  a  deity  represented  with  a  fierce  expression,  a  flaming 
halo,  three  eyes,  and  six  arms.  Nevertheless  he  is  popularly  looked  on 
as  the  god  of  love.  Andersoti  describes  him  as  ^*  a  transformation  of 
AtchalS  the  Insatiable." 

Ama-terasu^  lit.  "the  Heaven-Shiner,"  that  is,  the  Sun-Goddess 
Born  from  the  left  eye  of  the  Creator  Izanagi,  when  the  latter  was 
performing  his  ablutions  on  returning  from  a  visit  to  his  dead  wife 
Izanami  in  Hades,  the  Sun-Goddess  was  herself  the  ancestress  of  the 
luiperial  Family  of  Japan.  The  most  striking  episode  in  her  legend 
is  that  in  whicli  she  js  insulted  by  her  brother  Susa-no-o,  and  retires  in 
high  dudgeon  to  a  cavern,  thus  plunging  the  wiiole  world  in  darkness. 
All  the  other  gods  and  goddesses  assemble  at  the  cavern's  mouth  with 
music  and  dancing.  At  length  curiosity  lures  her  to  the  door,  and  she 
is  finally  enticed  out  by  the  sight  of  her  own  fair  image  in  a  mirror, 
which  one  of  the  gods  pushes  forward  towards  her.  The  origin  of  the 
sacred  dances  called  kagura  is  traced  to  this  incident  by  the  native 
literati.  Other  names  under  which  the  Sun-Goddess  is  known  are 
Shimmei  and  Ten  Shoko  Daijin, 

Amida  (Sanskrit,  Amitdbha),  a  powerful  deity  dwelling  in  a  lovely 
paradise  to  the  West.  Originally  Amida  was  an  abstraction,  the  ideal 
of  boundless  light.  His  image  may  be  recognised  by  the  halo  {goko) 
surrounding  not  only  the  head  but  the  entire  body,  and  by  the  liands 
lying  on  the  lap,  with  the  thumbs  placed  end  to  end.  The  spot  on  the 
forehead  is  emblematical  of  wisdom.  The  great  image  (Daihutsu)  at 
Eamakura  represents  this  deity. 


28  Introduction : — List  of  Gods  and  Goddesses. 

Anan  (Sanskrit,  Anandu)^  one  of  Buddlia^R  cousins  nnH  earliest  con- 
verts. He  is  often  called  Tamon  (^K)i  lit.  "  hearing  mucli,"  on  account 
of  liis  extensive  knowledge  and  wonderful  memory. 

Bknten,  or  Bbnzaiten,  the  Goddess  of  Luck,  Eloquence,  and 
Fertilit}'.     She  is  often  represented  riding  on  a  serpent  or  dragon. 

BiNZDRU,  originally  one  of  the  Sixteen  Kakan^  was  expelled  from 
their  number  for  having  violated  his  vow  of  chastity  by  remarking 
upon  the  beuuty  of  a  female,  whence  the  ukuhI  situation  of  his  image 
outside  the  chancel.  It  is  also  said  that  Buddha  conferred  on  him  the 
power  to  cure  all  human  ills.  For  this  reason,  believers  rub  the  imnge 
of  Binzuru  on  whatever  part  may  in  their  own  bodies  be  causing  them 
pain,  and  then  rub  themselves  in  the  hope  of  obtaining  relief.  Binzuru 
is  a  highly  popular  object  of  worship  with  the  lower  classes,  and  his 
image  is  often  adorned  by  some  of  his  devotees  with  a  red  or  yellow 
cotton  hood,  a  bib,  and  mittens. 

BiSHAMON  (Sanskrit,  Vdisramana)^  explained  in  Eitel's  "  Hand- 
book of  Chinese  Buddhism"  as  the  God  of  Wealth,  has  been  adopted 
by  the  Japanese  as  one  of  their  Seven  Gods  of  Luck  with  the  special 
characteristic  of  impersonating  war.  Hence  he  is  represented  as  clad 
in  armour  and  bearing  a  spear,  as  well  as  a  toy  pagoda. 

BoNTBN,  Brahma. 

BosATSU  (Sanskrit  Bddhisattvd)^  the  general  title  of  a  large  class  of 
Buddhist  saints,  who  have  only  to  pass  through  one  more  human  exist- 
ence before  attaining  to  Buddhahood. 

Daikokd,  the  God  of  Wealth,  may  be  known  by  his  rice-bales. 

Dainichi  Nyorai  (Sanskrit,  Vdirdtchana  Tathdgata),  one  of  the 
persons  of  the  Triratna,  or  Buddhist  Trinity,  the  personification  of 
wisdom  and  of  absolute  purity.  He  is  popularly  confounded  with 
Jizo,  the  images  of  the  two  being  difficult  to  distinguish. 

DosojiN,  the  God  of  Roads. 

Ebisu,  one  of  the  Gods  of  Luck,  is  the  patron  of  honest  labour.  He 
bears  in  his  hand  a  ^i-fish. 

Emma-0  (Sanskrit,  Ydma-rdja)^  the  regent  of  the  Buddhist  hells. 
He  may  be  known  by  his  cap  resembling  a  judge's  beret,  and  by  the 
huge  mace  in  his  right  hand.  Before  him  often  nit  two  uiyrmidons, 
one  of  whom  holds  a  pen  to  write  down  the  sins  of  human  beings,  while 
the  other  reads  out  the  list  of  their  offences  from  a  scroll. 

FuDo  (Sanskrit,  Achald),  Much  obscurity  hangs  over  the  origin  and 
attributes  of  this  popular  divinity.  According  to  Sir  Monier  Williams, 
Achala,  which  means  "  immovable  *'  {Fu-do^  7f9i,  translates  this  mean- 
ing exactly),  is  a  name  of  the  Brahminical  God  Siva  and  of  the  first  of 
the  nine  deified  persons  called  *' white  Balas"  among  the  Jainas. 
Satow  says  : — "  Fudo  (Akshara)  is  identified  with  Dainichi  (Vdir6A?una), 
the  God  of  Wisdom,  which  quality  is  symbolised  by  the  fiames  which 
surround  him:  it  is  a  common  error  to  suppose  that  he  is  the  God  of 
Fire.  According  to  the  popular  view,  the  sharp  sword  which  he  grasps 
in  the  right  hand  is  to  frighten  evil-doers,  while  in  his  left  hand  he 
holds  a  rope  to  bind  them  with." 

Fug  EN  (Sanskrit,  SanfianUihhadra)  is  the  special  divine  patron  of 
those  who  practise  the  Hokkezammai^  a  species  of  ecstatic  meditation. 
His  image  is  generally  seated  on  the  left  hand  of  Shaka. 


List  of  Gods  and  Goddesses,  29 

FuKUROKUJU,  one  of  the  Gods  of  Luck,  is  distingnished  by  a 
preternatural ly  long  head,  and  typifies  longevity  and  wisdom. 

Qo-CHI  Nyorai,  the  Fi^e  Buildhas  of  contemplation  or  of  wisdom, 
namely,  Yakuslii,  Talio,  Dainichi,  Asliuku,  and  Shaka.  But  some 
authorities  make  a  different  enumeration. 

GoNGKN.  This  is  not  the  name  of  any  special  divinity,  but  a  general 
term  used  in  Ryobu-Shinto  (see  p.  22)  to  denote  such  Shinto  gods  as  are 
considered  to  be  "  temporary  manifestations,"  that  is,  incarnations  of 
Buddhas.  It  is,  liowever,  applied  with  special  frequency  to  leyasu,  the 
deified  founder  of  the  Tokugawa  dynast}^  of  Shoguns,  who  is  the  Gongen 
8ama^  that  is.  Lord  Gongen  par  excellence. 

Hachiman,  the  Chinese  name  under  which  the  Emperor  Ojin  is 
worshipped  as  the  God  of  War.     The  Japanese  equivalent  is  Yawata. 

HoTKi,  one  of  the  Seven  Gods  of  Lack,  typifies  contentment  and 
good-nature.  He  in  represented  in  art  with  an  enormous  naked  abdomen. 

HoToKB,  the  genera]  name  of  all  Buddhas,  that  is,  gods  or  perfected 
saints  of  popular  Buddhisui.  The  dead  are  also  often  spoken  of  as 
hotoke. 

Inari,  the  Goddess  of  Rice,  also  called  Uga-no-Mitama.  The  image 
of  the  fox,  whicli  is  always  found  in  temples  dedicated  to  Jnari,  seems 
to  have  been  first  placed  there  as  a  tribute  to  the  fear  which  tliat  wily 
beast  inspires  ;  but  in  popular  superstition  Inari  is  the  fox  deity. 

Iz&NAOi  and  IzANAMi,  the  Creator  and  Creatress  of  Japan.  The 
curious  though  indelicate  legend  of  their  courtsliip,  the  striking  legend 
of  the  descent  of  Izanagi  into  Hades  to  visit  Izanami  after  the  latter's 
deatii  and  burial,  and  the  account  of  Izanagi's  histritions  will  be 
found  in  pp.  18-43  of  the  translation  of  the  Kqj'iki,  forming  the  Sup- 
plement to  Vol.  X.  of  the  **  Transactions  of  the  Asiatic  "Society  of  Japan." 

Jizo  (Sanskrit,  KshiHgarbha)^  the  compassionate  Buddhist  helper  of 
those  who  are  in  trouble.  He  is  the  patron  of  travellers,  of  pregnant 
women,  and  of  children.  His  image  is  often  loaded  with  pebbles,  which 
eerve  in  the  other  world  to  relieve  the  labours  of  infants  who  have  been 
robbed  of  their  clothes  by  the  hag  named  Shozuka  no  Baha^  and  are  then 
set  by  her  to  perform  the  endless  task  of  piling  up  stones  on  the  bank  of 
the  Buddhist  Styx.  Jizo  is  represented  as  a  shaven  priest  with  a  bene- 
volent countenance,  holding  in  one  hand  a  jewel,  in  the  other  a  staff 
with  metal  rings  (shahujo).  His  stone  image  is  found  more  frequently 
than  tlrat  of  any  other  object  of  worship  througliout  the  Empire.  It 
need  scarcely  be  said  that  the  resemhiance  in  sound  between  the  names 
Jiao  and  Jesus  is  quite  fortuitous. 

JuROJi^f,  one  of  the  Gods  of  Luck,  often  represented  as  accompanied 
by  a  stag  and  a  crane. 

Kami,  a  general  name  for  all  Shinto  go<la  and  goddesses. 

Kasho  (Sanskrit,  Kdsyapa)^  one  of  Buddha's  foremost  disciples. 
He  is  said  to  have  swallowed  the  sun  and  moon,  in  consequence  whereof 
his  body  became  radiant  like  gold. 

KiSHi  BoJiN,  the  Indian  goddess  Hdritl  or  Ariti^  was  originally  a 
woman,  who,  having  sworn  to  devour  all  the  children  at  R^jagriha,  the 
metropolis  of  Buddhism,  was  reborn  as  a  demon  and  gave  birtli  to  five 
hundred  children,  one  of  whom  she  was  bound  to  devour  every  day.  She 
was  converted    by    Bu  Idha,    ami   entered  a  nunnery.     The  Japanese 


80  Introduction : — List  of  Gods  and  Goddesses. 

worship  her  as  the  protectress  of  children.  She  is  represented  as  a 
beautiful  woman,  carrying  a  child,  and  with  a  pomegranate  in  one 
hand.  The  lanterns  and  other  ornaments  of  the  temples  dedicated  to 
her  are  marked  with  the  crest  of  the  pomegranate.  The  ofEeringa 
brought  to  her  shrine  by  bereaved  mothers  are  such  as  may  well  toucbi 
any  heart.  They  are  the  dresses,  dolls,  and  other  mementos  of  their 
lost  darlings. 

KoHPiRA  (Sanskrit,  Kumbhira).  Much  obscurity  shrouds  the  origin 
and  nitture  of  this  highly  popular  divinity.  According  to  some  he  is  a 
demon,  the  crocodile  or  alligator  of  tlie  Ganges.  Others  aver  that  Shaka 
Muni  (Buddha^  himself  became  *Hhe  boy  Kompira,**  in  order  to  over* 
come  the  heretics  and  enemies  of  religion  who  pressed  upon  him  one 
day  as  he  was  preaching  in  "  the  Garden  of  Delight," — the  said  "  boy 
Kompira"  having  a  body  1,000  ft.  long,  provided  with  1.000  heads 
and  1,000  arms.  The  mediasval  Shintoists  identified  Kompira  with 
Susa-no-o,  brother  of  the  Japanese  Sun-Goddess.  More  recently  it  has 
been  declared,  on  the  part  of  the  Shinto  authorities  whose  cause  the 
Government  espouses  in  all  such  disputes,  that  the  Indian  Kompira  is 
none  other  than  Kotohira,  a  hitherto  obscure  Japanese  god  whose  name 
has  a  convenient  similarity  in  sound.  Consequently  the  great  Buddliist 
shrine  of  Kompira  in  the  island  of  Siiikoku,  and  all  the  other  shrines 
erected  to  Kompira  throughout  the  Empire,  have  been  claimed  and 
taken  over  as  Shinto  property. 

KosHiN,  a  deification  of  that  day  of  the  month  which  corresponds  to 
the  57th  term  of  the  Chinese  sexagesimal  circle,  called  in  Japanese  Ka- 
nO'S  saru.  This  being  the  day  of  the  monkey,  it  is  represented  by  three 
monkeys  (sam  biki-zaru)  called  respectively,  by  a  play  upon  words, 
mi-zarUy  kika-earti,  and  itoa-zaru^  that  is,  "  the  blind  monkey,"  "  the 
deaf  monkey,"  and  **  the  dumb  monkey."  Stone  slabs  with  these  three 
monkeys  in  relief  are  among  the  most  usual  objects  of  devotion  met 
with  on  the  roadside  in  the  rural  districts  of  Japan,  the  idea  being  that 
this  curious  trinity  will  neither  see,  hear,  nor  speak  any  evil. 

KwANNoN  (Sanskrit,  Avaldkitisvara)^  the  Goddess  of  Mercy,  who 
contemplates  the  world  and  listens  to  the  prayers  of  the  unhappy. 
According  to  another  but  less  popular  opinion,  Kwannon  belongs  to  the 
male  sfix.  Kwannon  is  represented  under  varying  forms — many-heade<l, 
headed  like  a  horse,  thousand-handed.  The  two  figures  often  represented 
on  either  side  of  her  are  Fudo  and  Aizen  Myo-o.  With  reference  to 
the  images  of  Kwannon,  it  should  be  stated  that  tlie  so-called  Chonsand- 
Handed  Kwannon  has  in  reality  but  forty  hands  which  hold  out  a 
number  of  Buddhist  emblems,  such  as  the  lotus-flower,  the  wheel  of  the 
law,  the  sun  and  moon,  a  skull,  a  pagoda^  and  an  axe — this  last  serving 
to  typify  the  cutting  off  of  all  worldly  cares.  A  pair  of  hands  folded 
on  the  image's  lap  holds  the  bowl  of  the  mendicant  priest.  The  Horse- 
Headed  Kwannon  has  three  faces  and  four  pairs  of  arms,  a  horse's 
head  being  carved  above  the  forehead  of  the  central  face.  One  of  the 
four  pairs  of  arms  is  clasped  before  the  breast  in  the  attitude 
called  renge  no  in^  emblematical  of  the  lotus-flower.  Another  pair 
holds  the  axe  and  wheel.  Yet  another  pair  grasps  two  forms  of  the 
tokko  (Sanskrit,  vdjra)^  a  sceptre  or  club  with  which  the  foes  of  the 
Buddliist  faith  are  to  be  crushed  ;  while  of  the  fourth  pair  of  hands, 


List  of  Gods  and  Goddesses*  81 

tlie  left  holds  a  cord  wherewith  to  bind  the  wicked,  and  the  right  is 
stretclied  out  open  to  indicate  ahnsgiving.  A  title  often  applied  to 
Kwannon  is  Nyo-i-rin^  properly  the  name  of  a  gem  which  is  supposed 
to  enable  its  possessor  to  gratify  all  his  desires,  and  which  may  be 
approximately  rendered  by  the  adjective  "  omnipotent." 

Marishitbn  (Sanskrit,  Marichi)^  the  personification  of  light  in 
tlie  BrahminicMl  theology  ;  also  a  name  of  Krishna.  In  Chinese  and 
Japanese  Buddhism,  Marishiten  is  considered  to  be  the  Queen  of 
Heaven,  and  is  believed  by  some  to  have  her  residence  in  a  star 
forming  part  of  the  constellation  of  the  Great  Bear.  She  is  represented 
with  eight  arms,  two  of  which  hold  up  emblems  of  the  sun  and  moon. 

Maya  Bunin,  the  mother  of  Buddha. 

Mid  A,  see  Amida. 

MiKoTO,  a  title  applied  to  Shinto  deities.  It  is  generally  translated 
Augiistness. 

MiROKU  (Sanskrit,  Mditi^eya)^  Buddha's  successor — the  Buddhist  Mes- 
siah, whose  advent  is  expected  to  take  place  5,000  years  after  Buddha's 
entry  into  Nirvlina. 

MoNJU  (Sanskrit,  Manjusri),  the  apotheosis  of  transcendental  wisdom. 
His  image  is  nsunlly  seated  on  the  right  hand  of  Shaka. 

Ni-6,  lit.  "  the  Two  D^va  Kings,"  Indra  and  Brahma,  who  keep 
guard  at  the  outer  gate  of  temples  to  scare  away  the  demons.  Each 
bears  in  his  hand  the  tokko  (Sanskrit,  vdjra),  an  ornament  originally 
designed  to  represent  a  diamond  club,  and  now  used  by  priests  and 
exorcists  as  a  religious  sceptre  symbolising  the  irresistible  power  of 
prayer,  meditation,  and  incantation.  The  figures  of  the  Ni-6  are  of 
gigantic  size  and  terrific  appearance,  and  are  often  bespattered  with 
little  pellets  of  paper  aimed  at  them  by  devotees  who  think  thus  to 
secure  the  accomplishment  of  some  desire  on  which  they  have  set  their 
hearts. 

Nyorai  (Sanskrit,  Tathdgata)^  an  honorific  title  app'ied  to  all 
Buddhas.  It  is  compounded  of  Chinese  nyo  (in)i  **  like,"  and  rai  (^), 
**  to  come,"  the  idea  being  that  a  Buddha  is  one  whose  coming  ami 
going  are  in  accordance  with  the  action  of  his  predecessors. 

Onamdji,  or  Okuni-nushi,  the  aboriginal  deity  of  Izumo,  who  re- 
signed his  throne  in  favour  of  the  Mikado's  ancestors  when  tliey  came 
down  from  heaven  to  Japan.  He  is  also  worshipped  under  the  titles 
of  Sanm  and  Hie. 

Rakan  (Sanskrit,  Arhdn^  or  Arhat)^  properly  the  perfected  Arya  or 
"  holy  man,"  but  popularly  used  to  designate  not  only  the  perfected 
8;iint,  but  all  Buddha's  disciples,  more  especially  his  ^*  Five  Hundred 
Disciples"  (Go- hyaku  Rakan)  and  his  "Sixteen  Disciples"  {Juroku 
Rakan).  Few  art-motives  are  more  popular  with  Japanese  painters 
and  sculptors.  The  holy  men  are  represented  in  various  attitudes,  but 
mostly  very  thin  and  scantily  clad. 

Senoen,  the  Goddess  of  Mount  Fuji.  She  is  also  called  Asama  or 
Ko-no-Hana-Saku-ya-Hiine,  that  is,  "  the  Princess  who  makes  the  Blos- 
soms of  the  Trees  to  Flower." 

Shaka  Muni,  the  Japanese  pronunciation  of  S'dkya  Muniy  the  name 
of  the  founder  of  Buddhism,  wlio  was  also  called  Gautama  and  is  gene- 
rally spukeu  of  by  Europeans  as  "  Buddha,"  though  it  would  be  more 


^  I 


82  Introduction : — LiU  of  Gods  and  Goddesses, 

correct  to  gay  "  the  Buddha."  In  his  youth  he  was  called  Shitta  Taislii 
(Sanskrit,  Siddhdrtha),  His  birth  is  asually  placed  by  the  Chinese  anci 
Japanese  in  the  year  1027  B.C.,  but  the  date  accepted  by  European 
-flcholars  is  653  B.C.  The  most  accessible  account  of  Buddha's  life  and 
doctrine  is  that  given  by  Professor  Rhys  Davids  in  his  little  work 
entitled  "Buddhism,"  published  by  the  Society  for  Promoting  ChriHtian 
Knowledge.  The  entombment  of  Buddha — all  creation  standing  weep- 
ing around — is  a  favourite  subject  of  Japanese  art.  Such  pictures  are 
called  Nehamd,  that  is,  "  representations  of  the  entry  into  Nirv&na." 
The  birth  of  Buddha  (tanjo  Shaha)  is  also  often  represented,  he  then 
appearing  as  a  niked  infant  with  his  right  hand  pointing  up  and  his 
left  hand  down,  to  indicate  the  power  which  he  exercises  over  heaven 
and  earth. 

Sharihotsu  (Sanskrit,  S'driputtra)^  the  wisest  of  Buddha's  ten  chief 
disciples. 

Shiohi  Fukujin,  the  Seven  Gods  of  Luck,  namely  Benten,  Bishamon^ 
Daikoku,  Ebisu,  Fukurokuju,  Hotei  and  Jurojin. 

Shi-Tenno,  the  Four  Deva  Kings,  who  guard  the  world  against  the 
attacks  of  demons.  Their  images  differ  from  those  of  the  Ni-o  by  hold- 
ing weapons  in  their  hands  and  generally  trampling  demons  under  foot. 
Moreover  they  are  placed,  not  at  the  outer  gate  of  temples,  but  at 
an  inner  one. 

Shozuka  no  Baba.    See  Jizo.  _ 

SuKUNA-BiKONA,  a  microscopic  god  who  aided  Onamuji  to  establish 
his  rule  over  the  land  of  Izuiuo  before  the  descent  to  earth  of  the  an- 
cestors of  the  Mikados. 

SUvSA-NO-o,  lit.  *'  the  Impetuous  Male."  The  name  of  this  deit}-  is 
justified  by  the  violent  conduct  which'  he  exhibited  towards  his  sister, 
the  Sun-Goddess  Ama-terasu,  whom  he  iilarmed  so  terril)Iy  by  his  mad 
freaks  that  she  retired  into  a  cavern.  Born  from  the  nose  of  the 
Creator  Izanagi,  Susa-no-o  is  considered  by  some  to  be  the  God  of  the 
Sea,  b}^  others  the  God  of  the  Moon.  He  was  the  ancestor  of  the  gods 
or  monarchs  of  the  province  of  Izuino,  who  finally  renounced  tiieir 
claims  to  sovereignty  over  an}'  part  of  Japan  in  favour  of  tlie  descen- 
dants of  the  Sun-Goddess.  Siisa-no-o  is  also  stvled  Gozu  Tenno,  **  the 
Ox-headed  Emperor," — a  name  apparently  derived  from  that  of  a  cer- 
tain mountain  in  Korea  where  he  is  supposed  to  have  been  worshipped. 
The  temples  dedicated  to  Snsa  no-o  are  called  Gion  or  Yasakn.  The 
former  are  Buddhist  or  Ryobu-Shinto  ;  the  latter  are  pure  Shinto 
shrines. 

Taishaku,  the  Brahminical  god  Indra. 

Tamon,  see  Anan. 

Tenjin  is  the  name  under  which  is  apotheosised  the  great  minister 
and  scholar  Sngawara-no-Michizane,  who,  having  fallen  a  victim  to 
calunmy  in  A.D.  901,  was  degraded  to  the  post  of  Vice-President  of 
the  Dazaifu  or  Governor-Generalship  of  the  island  of  Kyushu,  at  that 
time  a  usual  form  of  banisiiment  for  illustrious  criminals.  He  died 
in  exile  A.D.  903,  his  death  being  followed  by  many  portents  and  dis- 
asters to  his  enemies.  He  is  worshipped  as  the  God  of  Calligraphy, 
other  names  for  him  being  Kan  Shojo  and  Temman«;u.  He  is  repre- 
sented in  the  robes  of  an  ancient  court  noble,  and  the  temples  dedicated 


Christian  Mission  Stations  in  Japan.  83 

to  him  bear  in  several  places  his  crest  of  six  stars.  A  recumbent 
image  of  a  cow  frequently  adorns  the  temple  grounds,  in  allusion  to 
tlie  fact  that  Michizane  used  to  ride  about  on  a  cow  in  the  land  of 
liis  exile.  A  plum-tree  is  also  often  planted  near  the  temple,  because 
that  was  his  favourite  tree.  Indeed,  tradition  says  that  the  most  beauti- 
ful plum-tree  in  his  garden  at  Kyoto  flew  after  him  through  the  air  to 
Dazaifu. 

ToSHoGu,  the  name  under  which  the  great  Shogun  Teyasu,  also  called 
Gongen  Sama,  is  worshipped.  It  signifies  "  the  Temple  (or  Prince)' 
Illaiuinating  tiie  East,"  in  allusion  to  the  fact  that  leyaeu's  glory  centred 
in  Eastern  Japan. 

ToYO-UKE-BiMK,  also  Called  Uke-moohi-no-Kami,  the  Shinto  Goddess  of 
Food.  The  Nihongi^  one  of  the  two  principal  sources  of  Japanese 
mythology  and  early  history,  says  that  the  Sun-Goddess  sent  the  Moon- 
God  down  from  heaven  to  visit  Uke-mochi-no-Kami,  who,  turning  her 
face  successively  towards  the  earth,  the  sea,  and  the  mountains,  produced 
from  her  mouth  rice,  fish,  and  game,  which  she  served  'up  to  him  at  a 
banqnet.  The  Moon -God  took  offence  at  her  feeding  him  with  unclean 
viauils,  and  drawing  his  sword,  cut  off  her  head.  On  his  reporting  this 
act  to  the  Sun-Goddess,  the  latter  was  very  angry,  and  secluded  herself 
from  him  for  the  space  of  a  day  and  night.  From  the  body  of  the 
murdered  earth  sprang  cattle  and  horses,  millet,  silkworms,  rice,  barley^ 
and  be?ms,  which  the  Sun-Goddess  decreed  should  thenceforth  be  the 
food  of  the  human  race.  In  the  Kojihi  version  of  the  myth,  it  is 
Susa-no-o  who  slays  the  Goddess  of  Food,  and  there  are  other  differences 
of  detail. 

Yakushi  Nyorai  (Sanskrit,  BMishajyaguru),  lit.  *the  Healing 
Buddha.'  His  name  is  explained  by  reference  to  a  prayer,  in  which  he 
is  called  upon  to  heal  in  the  next  life  the  miserable  condition  of  man's 
present  existence. 


23. — Christian  Mission  Stations  in  Japan. 

The  Roman  Catholic  Mission  in  Japan  dates  from  the  time  of  Saint 
Francis  Xavier,  and  though  Christianity  was  sternly  repressed  during 
the  17th  and  18th  centuries  and  down  to  1873,  the  flame  continued  to 
smoulder,  especially  in  the  island  of  Kyiishu.  The  Roman  Church  now 
has  Bishops  at  Tdkyo,  Osaka,  and  Nagasaki,  and  a  total  following  of 
over  40,000. 

The  labours  of  the  Protestant  Missionaries  commenced  in  1859,  and 
a  network  of  mission  stations  now  covers  the  greater  portion  of  the 
Empire.  Tokyo  and  the  Open  Ports  are  the  head-quarters  of  most  of 
the  denominations,  and  are,  for  shortness'  sake,  not  mentioned  in  the 
following  list  of  mission  stations,  given  for  the  benefit  of  travellers 
interested  in  mission  work. 

The  United  Church  of  Christ  in  Japan  (Nippon  Itchi  Kyokwai)^  an 
amalgamation  of  American  and  Scotch  Presbyterian  Churches,  has  the 
largest  number  of  members,  over  10,000.  Stations ; — Hiroshima, 
Kanazawa,  Kochi,  Kyoto,  Morioka,  Nagoya,  Okazaki,  Sapporo,  Sendai, 
Tokusbima,  Ueno,  Wakayama,  Yamaguchi,  Yokkaichi. 


34  IfitrodiicUon : — Outline  of  Japanese  History, 

Tlie  Kumi-ai  Oiurclies,  in  co-operation  with  the  American  Board's 
Mission,  over  9,000  memhers.  Stations  : — Kunianioto,  Kyoto,  Mae- 
bashi,  Matsuyaiua,  Nagaoka,  Okayama,  Sendai,  Tot  tori,  Tsu. 

The  Nippon  Set  Kokwai^  including  tlie  niiHHions  of  tiie  Cliurch  of 
England  and  of  the  Protestant  Episcopa]  Church  of  America,  4.000. 
Stations: — Fukuoka,  Gifu,  Kumamoto,  Kushiro,  Maebashi,  MalKue, 
Nara,  Tokushima. 

American  Methodist  Episcopal  Churchy  over  4,000.  Stations: — Fuku- 
oka, tiirosaki,  Hirosliima,  Matsuyauia,  Nagoya,  Oita.  Yonezawa. 

Methodist  Church  of  Canada,  1,700.  Stations: — Kanazawa,  K5fu, 
Kumamoto,  Nagano,  Shizuoka. 

American  Baptist  Missionary  Union,  over  1,000.'  Stations: — Morioka, 
Nemuro,  Sendai,  Shimonoseki,  Toyoura. 

The  above  stations  are  those  at  wliich  foreign  missionaries  reside. 
Native  pastors  carry  on  the  work  at  other  places.  Numerous  smaller 
denominations,  chiefly  American,  are  also  represented. 

The  Orthodox  Russian  Church  has  a  flourishing  mission,  whose  head- 
quarters are  at  Tokyo. 

24. — Outline  of  Japanese  History. 

Nothing  is  known  concerning  the  origin  of  the  Japanese  people,  or 
t]»e  period  at  which  they  reached  their  present  habitat.  The  dawn  of 
trustworthy  history  in  the  5th  century  after  Christ  finds  the  Mika<io8 
— Emperors  claiming  descent  from  the  Sun-Goddess  Ama-terasu — 
already  governing  all  Japan  except  the  North,  which  was  still  occupied 
by  the  Aino  aboiigines,  and  Chinese  civilisation  beginning  to  filter  into 
what  had  apparently  liitherto  been  a  semi-barbarous  land.  The  chief 
pioneers  of  this  civilisation  were  Buddhist  priests  from  Korea.  From 
that  time  forward  Japanese  history  consists,  broadly  speaking,  in  the 
rise  of  successive  great  families  and  chiefs,  who,  while  alwa3's  pro- 
fessing a  nominal  respect  for  the  divine  authority  of  the  Mikado, 
practically  usurp  his  power  and  are  the  de  facto  rulers  of  the  country. 
By  the  end  of  the  12th  century,  the  old  absolutism  had  been  converte<l 
into  a  feudalism  of  which  Yorit.omo,  the  successful  leader  of  the 
Minamoto  family  or  clan,  became  the  acknowledged  head  under  the 
title  of  Shdgvn,  which  closely  corresponds  in  etymology  and  in  mean- 
ing to  the  Latin  Imperator,  Thus  was  inaugurated  the  dual  system  of 
government  which  lasted  down  to  the  year  1868, — the  Mikado  supreme 
in  name,  but  powerless  and  dwelling  in  a  gilded  captivity  at  the  old 
capital  Kyoto,  the  Sho^un  with  his  great  feudatories,  his  armed  re- 
tainers, and  his  well-filled  exchequer,  ruling  the  whole  empire  from 
his  new  capital  in  Eastern  Japan — first  Kamakura,  then  Yedo.  During 
the  latter  period  of  the  nominal  supremacy  of  the  Minamoto  family  of 
Shoguns,  the  real  power  was  in  the  hands  of  their  chief  retainers,  the 
Hojo  family — the  political  arrangement  thus  becoming  a  triple  one. 
The  rule  of  the  Hojo  was  rendered  memorable  by  the  repulse  of  the 
Mongol  fleet  sent  by  Kublai  Khan  to  conquer  Japan,  nince  which  time 
Japan  has  never  been  attacked  by  any  foreign  enemy.  The  Ashikapi 
line  of  Slioguns  grasped  the  power  which  had  fallen  from  the  Hojo*s 
hands,  and  distinguished   themselves  by  their  patronage  of  the  arts. 


Outline  of  Japanese  History,  85 

Tlie  second  1m1£  of  the  16tli  century  was  a  period  of  anarchy,  daring 
^vliich  two  great  sohliers  of  fortune  wlio  were  not  Shoguns — Nobunaga 
and  Hideyoslii— Fuccessively  rose  to  supreme  power.    Hideyoshi  even 
went  BO  far  as  to  conquer  Korea  and  to  meditate  the  conquest  of  China, 
an  enterprise  whicli  was,  however,  interrupted  by  his  death  in  A.D. 
1598.     Tokugnwa  leyusu,  Hideyoshi's  greatest  general,  tlien  succeeded 
in  making  Japtin   his  own,  and  founded  a  dynasty  of  Shoguns  who. 
ruleil  Japan  in  profound  pence  from  1603  to  1868.    •Among  the  means 
resorted  to  for  securing  tliis  end  were  tlie  ejection  of  tlie  Catholic 
inissioniiries  und  the  closing  of  the  country  to  foreign  trade.     Nagasaki 
was  the  only  place  in  the  Empire  at  which  any  communication  with  the 
outer    world    was   permitted,  no  European  nation  but  the  Dutch  was 
allowed  to  trade  there,  and  even  Dutch  commerce  was  restricted  within 
narrow  limits.     At  last,  in  1853,  the  government  of  the  United  States 
Meut  a  fleet  uuder  the  command  of  Commodore  Perry  to  insist  on  the 
ceHsation  of  the  Japanese  policy  of  isolation.     This  act  of  interference 
from    the  outside  gave  the  coup  de  grdce  to  the  Siio^unate,  which  had 
previounly  been  weakened  by  internal  discontent.     It  fell,  and  in  its 
fall  dragged  down  the  whole  fabric  of  mediaeval  Japanese  civilisation. 
On  the  one  hand,  the  Mikado  was  restored  to  the  absolute  power  which 
iiad  belonged  to  his  ancestors  centuries  before.     On  the  other,  Euro- 
peanism  (if  one  may  so  phrase  it)  became  supreme  in  every  branch  o£ 
thought  and  activity.    The  natural  outcome  of  this  has  been  the  Euro- 
peanisation  of  the  monarchy  itself.    Not  only  has  the  Court  adopted 
foreign  manners  and  etiquette.     It  has  granted  a  Constitution  modelled 
on  that  of  Prussia;  and  tlie  first  Diet,  as  it  is  termed,  sat  from  Novem- 
ber, 1890  to  March,  1891.    The  session  was  somewhat  stormy. 

The  following  are  the  chief  dates  of  Japanese  historv  : — 

B.C. 
.»      Accession  of  the  first  Mikado,  Jimmu  Tennu    660 

rs'C  ■{  Prince  Yamato-take  conquers  S.W.  and  E.  Japan  ...        97-113 

^£  I  Conquest  of  Korea  by  the  Empress  Jingo 200 

iFirst  Chinese  books  brought  to  Japan   285 

Buddhism  introduced  from  Korea 552 

Sliotokn  Taishi  patronises  Buddhism    593-621 

Government  remodelled  on  Chinese  bureaucratic  plan  600-800 

Chinese  calendar  introduced  602 

Fujiwara  family  predominant   : 670-1050 

TIte  Court  resides  at  Nara  709-784 

First  extant  Japanese  book  published  (Kojiki)  712 

Printing  introduced    770 

Kyoto  made  the  capital 794 

Invention  of  ffira-gana  syllabary , 809 

Struggle  between  the  Taira  and  Minamoto  clans  1156-1185 

Yoritomo  establishes  the  Shogunate 1192 

Hojo  family  pre<lominant  •••• 1205-1333 

Repulse  of  the  Mongols 1274-1281 

Two  rival  lines  of  Mikados,  the  Northern  and  Southern 

GburU , 1332-1392 


86  Introdiiction : — Celebrated  Personages, 

Asliikaf^a  dynasty  of  Shoguns   13B8-1565 

The  Portuguese  discover  Japan 1542 

St.  Francis  Xavier  arrives  in  Japan  1549 

First  persecution  of  the  Ciiristiuns   1587 

Yedo  founded  by  leyasu    1590 

Hideyoshi  invatfcs  Korea   1592-1.598 

Battle  of  Seki-ga-imra 1600 

Tokugawa  dynasty  of  Shoguns      1603-1868 

Japan  closed  and  Christianity  prohibited 1624 

The  Dutch  relegated  to  Deshima  1639 

Kaempfer  visits  Japan    1690-92 

Last  eruption  of  Fuji » 1707 

Arrival  of  Commodore  Perry 1853 

First  treaty  signed  with  the  United  States 1854 

Great  earthquake  at  Yedo  1855 

First  treaties  with  European  Powers    1857-59 

Yokohama  opened    1858 

First  Japanese  embassy  sent  abroad 1860 

Bombardment  of  Shimonoseki   1864 

The  Shoganate  abolished  and  the  Mikado  restored  to  absolute 

poNver 1868 

Civil  war  between  Imperialists  and  partisans  of  the  Sliogun  1868-69 

The  Mikado  removes  to  Yedo  (Tokyo) 1869 

Abolition  of  feudal  systeni 1871 

Tokyo-Yokohama  railway  opened 1872 

Adoption  of  Gregorian  calendar    / 1873 

Expedition  to  Formosa    1874 

The  wearing  of  swords  interdicted   1876 

Satsnma  rebellion 1877 

New  Codes  published  1880-90 

Constitution  proclaimed 1889 

First  Diet  met 1890 

25. — List  of  Celebrated  Personages. 

The  following  list  of  celebrated  personages  referred  to  in  this  book, 
and  likely  to  be  mentioned  by  guides  when  explaining  objects  of  histo- 
rical or  artistic  interest,  ma}^  be  found  usefid. 

Benkki,  or  Musashi-bo  Benkei,  was  Yoshit8une*s  famous  henchman* 
How  many  of  Benkei's  valorous  achievements  are  historical,  it  would 
be  hard  to  say.  According  to  the  orthodox  account,  he  was  eight  feet 
in  heiglit,  strong  as  a  himdred  men,  and  had  even  in  early  years  per- 
formed so  many  deeds  of  violence  as  to  have  been  nicknamed  Oni" 
waka,  "  the  Devil  Youth."  Having  attempted  to  cut  down  Ynshitsunei 
then  a  mere  stripling,  on  t\\e  Gojo  Bridge  in  Kyoto,  he  found  in  him 
his  master  in  the  art  of  fencing,  and  was  made  to  sue  for  quarter.  So 
great  was  the  veneration  thus  inspired  in  his  breast,  that  he  thenceforth 
attached  himself  to  Yoshitsuno's  fortunes  and  die<l  battling  in  hii 
cause.  The  fight  between  Yoshitsune  nnd  Benkei  is  a  favourite  subjeol 
with  the  artists  of  Japan.  Another  is  the  subterfuge  by  which  Benkei 
made  way  for  hi&  muster -and  tlieir  Utile- band   through  one  of  the 


Celebrated  Pei'sonages, 

l»arneT«  where  at  tliat  time  all  travellers  were  liable  to  be  stopped:' 
He  pretended  that  he  was  a  priest  sent  to  collect  subscriptions  for  the 
iMiikHn<^  of  a  new  temple,  and  therefore  privileged  to  travel  free, 
Tlie  .pictures  represent  him  reading  out  his  supposed  ecclesiastical 
coiiMuission  from  a  scroll  to  the  barrier-keepers,  who  were  too  ignorant 
of  letters  to  discover  the  feint.  This  story  is  also  the  subject  of  a 
drauia  called  Kavjin-cho. 

HusON  (1716-1783),  a  highly  original  and  vigorous  artist  of  the 
Chinese  scliool. 

Ck^  Dknsu    (second    half    of    14tli    century),    the   best   an<l    most, 
original  painter  of  the  Buddhist  school,  is  termed  by  Anderson    '*  the 
Fra  Angelico  of  Japan." 

Dkngvo  Daishi  (flourished  about  A.D.  800)  wns  the  first  Buddhist 
abbot  of  Hiei-zan.  He  made  a  long  sojourn  in  China  for  the  purpose 
of  esoteric  8tu<ly,  and  brought  back  with  hmi  the  doctrines  of  the 
Tendai  sect. 

Ex  NO  Shokaku,  a  famous  Buddhist  saint  and  miracle-worker  of  the 
7th  century,  and  the  first  human  being  to  ascend  Uaku-san,  Daiseir, 
Tate^'ama,  and  others  of  Japan's  highest  mountains,  it  being  part  of  his 
wiission  to  bring  all  such  remote  and  inaccessible  places  under  the 
sway  of  6u«ldha.  Having  been  slandered  as  a  magician  and  con- 
demned to  death,  he  so  fortified  himself  by  the  use  of  mystic  signs 
and  formulae  that  the  sworls  of  the  executioners  sent  to  behead  him 
Knapped  in  pieces;  but  afterwards  he  flew  away  through  the  air,  and 
was  never  again  seen  by  mortal  eyes. 

EsHiN  (942-1017),  a  Buddhist  abbot  who  is  famous  as  a  sculptor. 

Go-Daigo  Tenno  (reigned  1319-1839)  was  a  Mikado  celebrated  for 
liis  misfortunes.  At  the  beginning  of  liis  reign,  the  throne  and  the 
nation  were  alike  trampled  un<ler  foot  by  the  Hojo  "llegents"  at 
Karnakura,  and  his  endeavour  to  Khake  off  their  domination  oidy  result- 
ed, after  nmcli  shedding  of  blood,  in  his  being  taken  prisoner  and 
banished  to  the  Oki  Islands.  When  the  Hojos  fell  in  1333  under  the 
«word  of  the  loyalist  warrior  Nitta  Yoshisada,  the  Emperor  Go-Daigo 
was  recalled  from  exile.  But  the  times  were  not  ripe  for  the  abolition 
of  military  rule,  nor  was  Go-Daigo  wise  in  his^  choice  of  counsellors 
after  his  restoration.  Ashikaga  Takauji,  who  had  posed  as  the  cham- 
pion of  Imperial  rights,  desired  nothing  so  much  as  to  become 
Shogun  himself,  and  bribed  the  Mikado's  concubine  Kado-ko  to 
poison  her  master's  nn'nd  against  those  who  had  served  him  most 
faithfully,  and  even  against  his  own  son,  Prince  Moriyoshi,  who 
was  declared  a  rebel,  cast  into  a  dungeon  at  Kamakura,  and  there 
murdered.  Go-Daigo ,  repented  of  his  folly  and  weakness  when 
it  was  too  late.  Takauji  left  Kyoto,  and  the  army  Sent  to 
Kmite  him  received  such  a  crushing  defeat  tliat  Go-Daigo  was  forced  to 
f$eek  safety  in  flight.  Thereupon  Takauji  set  another  Mikado  on  the 
throne.  But  as  Go-Daigo  continued  to  be  recognised  by  many  as  the 
rightful  sovereign,  the  Mikadoate  was  split  into  two  rival  branches, 
Called  the  Southern  (legitimate)  and  the  Northern  (usurping)  Courts. 
After  sixty  years  of  strife  and  misery,  the  Northern  Court  triumphed 
in  1392,  the  representative  of  the  Southern  dynasty  handling  over  to  it 
the  Imperial   regalia.     Go-Daigo   perished  at  an  early  period  of  the 


38  Introduction : — Celebrated  Personages. 

struggle.  His  Court — i£  we  may  so  call  the  monntafn  fastneRs  wliere 
he  mostly  encamped — was  at  Yosliino,  whose  position  to  the  South  of 
Kyoto  was  the  origin  of  the  epithet  ** Southern'-  applied  to  it  by 
liistorians. 

Gyooi  Bosatsu  (670-749),  a  Korean  by  birth,  and  a  Buddhint  abbot 
and  saint,  is  the  subject  of  many  artistic  fictions.  He  is  credited  not 
only  with  the  invention  of  the  potter's  wheel,  which  whs  certainly  used 
in  Japan  before  liis  time,  but  with  a  number  of  iuiportant  wood- 
carvings  and  other  works  <»f  ?irt. 

HiDARi  JiNGORo  (1594-1634),  Japan's  greatest  carver  in  wood,  was 
a  simple  carpenter  whose  nickname  of  Hidari  arose  from  his  being 
left-handed.  Among  the  best  known  of  his  works,  are  4he  carved 
gateway  of  the  Nishi  HoTigwanji  Temple  in  Kyoto,  the  ramma^  or 
ventilating  panels  of  the  principal  apartments  in  the  same  temple,  and 
three  carvings, — two  of  elephants  after  designs  by  Kano  Tan-yu,  and 
one  of  a  sleeping  cat,  in  tiie  mortuary  chapel  of  leyasu  at  Nikko. 
The  notice  attracted  by  his  labours  was  so  great  that  tiie  architectural 
wood-cnrvers,  whose  artistic  efforts  had  previously  been  liuiited  to  the 
execution  of  mechanical  designs  and  conventional  flowers,  now  came 
to  be  regarded  as  a  body  distinct  froui  the  carpenters  to  whom  they 
littd  hitherto  been  affiliated. 

HiDRVOSHi  (1536 — 1598),  commonly  known  as  the  Taiko  Hideyoshi — 
Uie  word  Taiko  being  a  title  indicative  of  exalted  rank — has  sometimes 
been  called  the  Napoleon  of  Japan.  Of  low  birth  and  so  ugly  as  to 
earn  the  nickname  of  "  Monkey,"  Hideyoshi  worked  his  way  up  by 
alieer  will,  hard  fighting,  and  far-sighted  ability,  to  the  position  of 
Nobunaga's  most  trusty  lieutenant ;  and  when  that  ruler  died  in 
1582,  Hideyoshi,  having  slain  his  chief  enemies  and  captured  Kyoto, 
became  practically  monarch  (»f  Japivn  witli  the  title  of  Uegent  {Kv:am- 
haku),  which  till  then  had  never  been  accorded  to  any  but  the  highest 
nobility.  Hideyoshi  carried  out  many  wise  measures  of  interna] 
policy,  such  as_financial  reform,  the  improvement  of  the  great  citie? 
of  Kyoto  and  Osaka,  and  the  encouragement  of  maritime  trade.  He 
was  also  more  merciful  to  his  foes  and  rivals  than  his  predecessoi 
Nobnnaga  had  been.  His  greatest  failing  was  the  vulgar  ambition  oi 
the  parvenu.  His  dream  was  to  conquer  China  and  become  Emperoi 
of  the  whole  East.  As  a  first  step  towards  this,  he  sent  an  army  acrosf 
the  straits  to  Korea  undercommand  of  the  celebrated  generals  Kati 
Ktyomasa  and  Konishi  Ynkinaga — the  latter  a  Christian,  as  were  man^ 
of  the  soldiers  of  the  expedition.  Korea  was  ruined,  and  Japan  no 
wise  benefited.  Hideyoshi's  death  resulted  in  the  withdrawal  of  tin 
Japanese  troops  from  the  peninsula,  and  in  the  speedy  overthrow  oJ 
his  own  family  power  which  he  had  hoped  to  render  hereditary. 

Iemitsu  (1604-1651),  the  third  Sho^un  of  the  Tokugawa  dynasty,  ia 
herited  the  administrative  abiUty  of  his  grandfather  leyasu,  and  devotee 
bis  peaceful  reign  to  perfecting  the  system  of  government  establishec 
by  the  latter,  including  the  elaborate  system  of  espionage  of  whid 
early  writers  on  Japan  have  so  much  to  say.  To  him  is  due  the  rah 
according  to  which  all  the  Daimyos  were  obliged  to  resido  durinc^  halii 
tlie  year  in  Yedo,  and  to  leave  their  families  there  as  hostages  durinj 
Hie  other  half.    It  was  also  Iemitsu  who  suppressed  ChristiuniCy  ai 


Celebrated  Personages,  29 

<1angerons  lo  the  state,  and  closed  up  the  country  against  all  foreignem 
•except  the  Dutch  and  Cliinese,  who  were  permitted  to  trade  at  Nagasaki 
under  Ituniiliating  conditions.  In  fact,  it  was  Jeniitsn  who  consolidated 
what  we  call  "  Old  Japan."     His  tomb  is  at  Nikko  near  that  of  IeyaFu« 

Ieyasu  (1542-1616),  one  of  tlie  greatest  generals  and  altogether  the 

|j;reatest  ruler  that  Japan   has  ever  produced,  was  a  Samurai  of  the 

province  of  Mikawa,  and  a  scion  of  the  great  famil}-  of  Minainoto.  fli» 

own  surname  was  Tokugawa.     Having  served  under   both  Nobunaga 

nnd  the  Taiko  Hideyoshi,  he   profited   b}^  the  hitter's  death  in  1598  to 

f uake  war  on  his  infant  son  Hideyori.  seized  the  great  castle  of  Osaka, 

burnt  the  Taiko's  celebrated  palace  of  Momoyama  at  Fushimi,  and 

iinally  in  the  year  1600  defeated  all  his  eneinjes  at  the  battle  of  Seki-ga- 

hara,   a  small  village  in  the  province  of  Omi,  now  a  station  on  the 

Tokaido  Railway.     Meanwhile  he  had,  in  1590,  moved  his  own  head- 

•quarters  from  Shizuoka,  where  they  had  been  for  many  years,  to  Yedo^ 

then  an  unimportant  fishing-village,  which  he  chose  on  account  of  the 

strategic  advantages  of  its  position.  In  1603  he  obtained  from  thefaineant 

Court  of  Kyoto  the  title  of  Shu;^un,  which  was  borne  by  his  descendants 

■during  two  and  a  half  centuries  of  unbroken  peace,   till  Commodore 

Perry's  arrival  in  1853  led  to  the  revolution  of  1868,  and  to  the  break- 

•up  of  Japanese  feudalism  and  dualism.     The  statecraft  which  caused 

-no  long  a  reign  of  peace  under  one  dj'iiasty  to  take  tlie  place  of  the 

-secular  struggles  between  i^etty  warring  chieftains,  consisted  greatly  in 

jn  balance  of  power  whereby  the  rivalries  of  the  greater  Daimyos  were 

played  off  against  each  other,  and  in  the  annexation  to  the  Shogun'» 

own   domain  or  to  those  of  his  ne.irest  relatives  of  large   strips  of 

territor}'  in  all  portions  of  the  Empire.     These  served   as  coignes  of 

vantage,  whence  in  those  days  of  difficult  communication,  the  actions 

•of  eacli  Daimyo  could  more  easily  be  controlled.     Ieyasu  held  in  his 

own  grasp  all  the  military  resources  of  tliQ  country,  and  forced  all  tlie 

Daimyos  to  regard  themselves  as  his  feudatories.     He  likewise  had  the 

•Courtof  Kyoto  strictly  guarded — nominally  as  a  protection  for  the  sacred 

Mikado  against  rebel  foes,  but  in  reality  to  prevent  His  Majesty,  who 

«till  retained  the  semblance  of  Imperial  power,  from  endeavouring   to 

«hake  off  the   fetters  which   made  him  a  passive  instrument  in   the 

tShogun's  hands.     Ieyasu  furthermore  built  powerful  strongholds,  made 

new  highways,  established  a  system  of  posts,  and  promulga'ted   laws, 

which — if  we  accept  the  theory  of  paternal  government  alike  in  politics 

and  in  the  family — were  very  wise,  an^l  which  were  in  any  case  far  in 

advance  of  anything  that  Japan  had  known  before.    When  the  govern- 

aneut  had  been  established  on  a  iirm  footing  in  1605,  Ieyasu  followed 

the   usual   Japanese   plan    of   abdicating   in    favour   of  his  son.     He 

retired   to  Shizuoka,  and  spent  the  evening  of  his  life  in  encouraging" 

the  renahsance  of  Japanese   literature  which  had    just  begun.     To  his 

munificence   is  owing  the  ecUtlo  imnceps  ot  many  an   important  work. 

Ieyasu  was  first  buried  at  Kuno-zan,  not  far  from  Shizuoka,  in  a  beautiful 

•shrine  on  a  castle-like  eminence  overlooking  the  sea.     In  the  year  1617, 

his  remains  were  removed  to  their  present  still  grander  resting-place  at 

Nikko.    The  dynasty  of  Shoguns  founded  by  Ieyasu  is  called  the  Toku- 

.gawa  dj'nasty,  from  the  surname  of  the  family. 

IWASA  Matahei  (16th  century)  was  the  originator  of  the   Vhlya^ 


40  Introducjtion : — Celebrated  Personages, 

e-Bya^  or  "  popular  school,"  of  Japanese  art,  which,  ubaruloning  the- 
prescribed  subjects  and  conveiuioiuil  routine  of  the  clussiciii  schoola, 
undertook  to  paint  life  as  it  is. 

JiMMU  TennC),  that  is,  the  Emperor  Jiinnui,  is  accounted  by  thfr 
Japanese  annalists  the  first  human  sovereij^n  of  their  country,  whicli 
liad  till  tlien  been  ruled  over  bv  tlie  Shinto  ffotls.  Jimmu  Tenno  was- 
liimself  descended  from  the  Sun-Goddess  Ania-terasu,  and  consequently 
semi-divine.  The  orthodox  account  of  his  career  is,  that  starting?  from 
Kyushu  in  the  extreme  West  of  Japan,  he  rowed  up  the  Inland  Sea 
with  a  band  of  devoted  warriors,  subduing  the  aborigines  as  he  went 
along,  in  virtue  of  the  commission  which  he  had  received  from  heaven^ 
After  much  fighting  in  what  are  now  the  provinces  of  Bizen  and 
Yamato,  and  many  miraculous  occurrences,  he  died  at  the  age  of  on& 
hundred  and  thirty-seven,  and  was  buried  at  Kaslnwabara  in  Vamato,. 
where  his  capital  ha<l  been  established  after  the  conquest.  The  date 
assigned  for  his  accession  is  the  11th  February,  OGO  B.C.,  the  anniver- 
sary of  which  day  has  been  made  a  public  holiday  during  the  present 
reign,  and  was  chosen  for  the  promulgation  of  the  new  Constitution, 
evidently  with  the  desire  to  strengthen  the  popular  belief  in  the  authen- 
ticity and  continuity  of  Japanese  history.  Jimmu  Tenno  and  his  suc- 
cessors during  many  centuries  have,  however,  been  condenuied  as  myths 
by  competent  European  investigators,  though  it  is  allowed  that  the- 
Jimmu  legend  may  possibly  be  an  echo  of  some  actual  invasion  of  cen- 
tral Japan  b}'  Western  tribes  of  adventurers  in  very  early  days. 

Jingo  Kogo,  that  is  the  Empress  Jingo,  ruled  over  Japan,  according- 
to  the  native  annalists,  from  A.D.  201  to  269,  when  she  died  at  the  age 
of  one  hundred;  but  Aston,  the  greatest  authority  on  early  Japanese 
history,  while  not  <lenying  the  existence  of  this  Japanese  Semiramis^ 
relegates  most  of  her  great  deeds  to  the  realm  of  fable.  The  chief 
legend  connected  with  her  is  that  of  her  conquest  of  Korea,  to  which 
country  she  crossed  over  with  a  gallant  fleet,  aided  by  the  fishes  botU 
g^reat  and  small  and  by  a  miraculous  wave,  and  whence  she  returned 
only  after  receiving  the  abject  submission  of  the  King.  Duringthe 
three  years  of  her  absence  in  Korea,  she  held  in  her  womb  her  son  Ojiii 
who  is  worshipped  as  Hachiman,  the  God  of  War.  Next  she  turned  her 
attention  Eastwards,  and,  going  in  her  fleet  up  the  Inland  Sea,  smote 
the  rebels  of  Yamato,  as  Jimmu  Tenno  is  said  to  have  done  before  her. 
Indeed,  it  has  been  suspected  that  the  two  legends  are  but  slightly 
varying  versions  of  the  same  story. 

JuSKTSU  (flourished  about  A.D.  1400),  a  priest  and  celebrated  painter. 
Anderson  calls  him  the  Japanese  Cimabue. 

Kano,  the  family  name  of  a  celebrated  school  of  painters,  which 
originated  in  the  15th  century  and  is  not  yet  extinct.  Its  manner, 
which  appears  highly  conventional  to  Europeans,  is  classical  in  the  eyes 
of  the  Japanese.  The  greatest  of  these  painters  was  Kano  Motonobu 
(born  1477).  Other  noteworthy  members  of  the  family  were  K.  Shoei, 
K.  Eitoku,  and  K.  Sanraku  (16th  century),  K.  Sansetsu,  and  especially 
K.  Tan-yu.  K.  Naonobu,  K.  Yasunobu,  I\.  Toun,  and  K.  Tsunenobu 
were  also  famous.  All  these  names,  from  Sansetsu  onwards,  belong  to 
the  17th  century.  The  Japanese  custom  of  a<loption  is  the  ke}'  to  the  ap- 
parent mystery  of  bo  many  men  similarly  gifted  arising  in  one  family. 


Celebrated  Personages,  41 

Kato  Kiyomasa  was  one  of  Hideyosbrs  generals  in  the  invasion  of 
Korea  at  i\\e  end  of  the  16th  century,  anil  a  fierce  enemy  of  the 
Christians.  He  is  one  of  tlie  most  popular  Japanese  lieroes,  and  is 
worshipped — chiefly  by  the  Nichiren  sect  of  Buddhists — under  the 
name  of  Seishoko. 

KiYOMORi  (1118 — 1181),  whom  Satow  calls  <he  Warwick  of  Japanese 
liistory,  was  head  of  the  great  house  of  Taira  during  its  struggles  with 
the  rival  house  of  Minamoto,  and  during  the  brief  period  of  triumph 
which  preceded  its  final  overthrow  at  Dan-no-ura.  From  the  year  1156 
until  his  death,  Kiyoniori  was  all-powerful,  engrossing  all  the  highest 
offices  of  state  for  his  own  kinsmen,  and  governing  the  Palace  through 
his  kinswomen  where  boy  Mikados  succeeded  each  other  like  shadows 
on  the  throne.  To  suit  his  own  convenience,  he  moved  the  capital  for  a 
time  from  Kvolo  to  Fukuwara  near  the  site  of  modern  Kobe — an  act 
of  high-handed  autocracy  which  was  bitterly  resented  by  the  courtiers 
and  the  nobility,  whose  habits  were  interfered  with  and  resources 
taxed  by  the  double  move.  While  irritating  the  upper  classes  by  his 
nepotism  and  overbearing  demeanour,  he  ground  down  the  common 
people  ])y  his  exactions,  and  endeavoured  uiterly  to  exterminate  the 
Taira  clan.  The  famous  beauty  Tokiwa,  handmaiden  to  Yoshitomo, 
was  forced  to  yield  to  his  embraces  in  order  to  save  the  life  of  her 
infant,  the  future  hero  Yoshitsune,  and  every  woman  that  pleased  him 
had  to  minister  to  his  lust.  His  eldest  son  Shigemori  remonstrated 
with  him  in  vain.  But  the  storm  did  not  break  in  his  time.  He  died 
in  his  bed,  leaving  his  whole  house  to  perish  four  years  later  iu  a  sea 
of  blood. 

KuBo  Daishi  (774 — 834),  the  most  famous  of  all  Japanese  Buddhist 
saints,  was  noted  equally  as  preacher,  painter,  sculptor,  calligraphist, 
and'travcller.  Had  his  life  lasted  six  hundred  years  instead  of  sixty, 
lie  could  hardly  have  grav.en  all  the  inuiges,  scaled  all  the  mountain- 
peaks,  confounded  all  the  sceptics,  wrought  all  the  miracles,  and  per- 
formed all  the  other  feats  with  which  he  is  popularly  credited. 
Byobu-ga-ura,  near  the  modern  temple  of  Kompira  in  Shikoku,  was  his 
birth-place.  His  conception  was  miraculous,  and  he  came  into  the 
world  with  his  hands  folded  as  if  in  prayer.  He  entered  the  priesthood  in 
A.D.  793.  Various  legends  are  told  of  the  trials  to  which  he  was  subjected 
by  evil  spirits  during  his  novitiate.  At  Cape  Muroto  in  Tosa,  dragons 
and  other  monsters  appeared  out  of  the  sea* and  disturbed  him  in  his 
prayers.  These  he  drove  away  by  repeating  mystic  formulae  called 
Darani,  and  by  spitting  at  them  the  rays  of  the  evening  star  which 
hail  flown  from  heaven  into  his  mouth.  At  a  temple  built  by  him  on 
this  spot,  he  was  constantly  annoyed  by  hobgoblins  who  forced  him  to 
enter  into  conversation  ;  but  he  finally  got  rid  of  them  by  surrounding 
himself  with  a  consecrated  enclosure  into  which  they  were  unable  to 
enter  against  his  will.  Having  been  sent  to  China  as  a  student  in  804, 
much  as  promising  Japanese  youths  are  sent  to  Europe  and  America 
torday,  he  became  the  favourite  disciple  of  the  great  abbot  Hui-kwo 
{Jap,  Kei  kwa),  by  whom  he  was  charged  to  carry  back  to  Japan  the 
tenets  of  the  Yog^charya,  or,  as  it  is  called  in  Japan,  Shingon  sect,  which 
occupies  itself  greatly  with  mystic  formularies,  magic  spells,  and 
iucantations.     Eobo  Daishi  returned  home  in  800,  bringing  with  him  a 


42  Ititroductiofi : — Celebrated  Personages. 

lar^e  quantity  of  BuHdliist  books  and  religious  parapliernalia,  and  in 
810  was  appointed  abbot  of  Tuji  in  Kyoto.  A  few  years  later  he  found- 
ed  the  great  monastery  of  Koya-san,  where  his  last  days  were  spent 
at  the  close  of  a  life  of  incessant  toil.  It  is  asserted  that  he  did  not  die, 
but  merely  retired  into  a  vaulted  tomb,  where  he  still  awaits  the  coming 
of  Miroku,  the  Buddhist  Messiah.  Among  the  innumerable  great  deedi 
with  which  this  saint  is  credited,  is  the  invention  of  the  Hiragana 
syllabary.  It  should  be  noted  that  tiie  name  Kobo  Daishi  (lit.  the 
Great  Teacher  Spreading  abroad  tlie  Law)  is  a  posthumous  title  con- 
ferred on  him  b}^  the  Emperor  Daigo  in  the  year  921.  His  name  while 
alive  was  Kfikai. 

KoJiMA.  Takanori,  a  high-born  warrior  of  the  14th  century,  is 
celebrated  for  his  loyalty  to  the  ill-starred  Emperor  Go-Daigo. 

KoRiN  (latter  half  of  17th  century)  was  a  famous  lacquer  artist  and 
painter. 

KoSE  NO  Kanaoka  (second  half  of  9th  century)  was  the  first  great 
Japanese  painter.  A  number  of  quaint  legends  testify  to  the  effect 
which  his  skill  produced  on  the  minds  of  his  contemporaries. 

Kdmagai  Naozane,  a  warrior  of  the  latter  half  of  the  12tli  century, 
took  his  surname  from  the  town  of  Kumagai  in  Muaashi,  which  he  received 
as  a  fief  from  Yoritomo.  The  most  famous  incident  in  his  life  was  his  en- 
counter with  Atsumori  at  the  battle  of  Ichi-no-tani  not  far  from  Kobe,  in 
the  year  1184.  Atsumori  was  a  delicate  youngnobleman  of  the Taira clan, 
scarcely  sixteen  years  of  age,  who,  when  the  city  of  Fukuwara  had  been 
taken  by  the  Minamoto,  soughtsafety  like  the  rest  of  his  kindred  in  flight 
on  board  a  junk,  but  being  pursued  by  Knmagai  Naozane,  had  to  fight 
for  his  life.  He  succumbed  to  the  veteran,  who,  tearing  off  his  helmet 
the  better  to  cut  off  his  head,  beheld  the  youthful  face  and  was  struck 
with  pity  and  sympath)^  his  own  son  having  fallen  earlier  in  the  day. 
He  reflected,  however,  that  to  spare  the  boy's  life  would  only  cause 
him  to  fall  into  more. ruthless  hands.  So  partly  out  of  compassion,  and 
partly  for  the  sake  of  his  own  reputation,  he  resolved  to  carry  out  his 
first  purpose.  Atsumori  submitted  to  his  fate  with  heroic  courage, 
while  Naozane,  overwhelmed  with  bitter  remorse,  vowed  never  more  to 
bear  arms,  but  to  forsake  the  vvorld  and  devote  the  remainder  of  his 
days  to  praying  for  the  soul  of  the  fair  youlh  whose  life  he  had  so 
unwillingly  taken.  He  restored  to  Atsumori's  father  the  head  and 
the  other  spoils  which  life  had  won,  and  after  the  conclusion  of  the  war 
he  went  to  Kyoto,  and  took  monastic  vows  in  the  temple  of  Kurodani, 
\vhere  numerous  relics  of  him  are  shown  to  this  day.  The  story  has 
been- dramatised  under  the  title  of  Atsumori. 

KusuNOKi  Masaseiigk  (first  half  of  14th  century)  is  celebrated 
for  his  courage  and  for  his  unswerving  lo3'alty  to  tlie  throne.  Had 
the  Emperor  Go-Daigo  listened  to  his  advice,  the  rising  power  of 
the  house  of  Ashikaga  might  have  been  crushed.  As  it  was,  Masa- 
shige  was  unequally  pitted  against  a  superior  foe;  and  when  his  army 
had  been  annihilated  at  the  battle  of  Minato-gawa  in  1336,  he  and  a 
little  oand  of  personal  followers  committed  haraJciri  rather  than 
surrender.  A  scene  which  artists  often  represent,  is  Masashige  abont  to 
die,  presenting  to  his  son  the  ancestral  roll  in  order  to  stimulate  him  to 
deeds  worthy  of  the  family  renown. 


Celebrated  Personages.  48 

MiTO  KuMON  (1622-1700),  eecond  Prince  of  Mito,  a  near  relative 
•of  tlie  Tokiigawa  Slio^uns,  helped  greatly  tliougli  iinconsciouHly  to  the 
tinul  overthrow  of  tlieir  house,  and  of  the  whole  feuihil  system  a 
•century  and  a  half  later,  by  means  of  his  celebrated  historical  work,  the 
Z}ai  Nihon  SJii,  which  first  caused  men  to  suspect  that  the  SliGguns  were 
usurpers,  and  the  Mikados  the  only  rightful  rulers  of  Japan.  He  also, 
patironised  the  new  school  of  Shinto  literati,  whose  studies  le<l  them,  and 
iinally  the  majority  of  the  educated  public,  to  endeavour  to  bring  back  the 
«tate  of  things  which  had  existed  in  pre-Buddhistic  an<l  pre-feudul  days. 
Popular  tradition  ascribes  to  this  prince  many  fanciful  undertakings, 
-eiicli  as  the  endeavour  to  raise  the  great  bell  from  the  river  at  Kunodai, 
and  to  find  the  bottom  of  the  Kananie-hhi  at  Kashima,  which  is 
supposed  to  be  the  pivot  of  the  world. 

MuRASAKi  Shikibu  (flourished  about  A.D.  1000)  was  a  Court  lady, 
And  the  most  celebrated  of  Japanese  romance-writers.  Her  chief  work 
is  the  Genji  Monogatari, 

♦  NiCHiREN  was  born  at  Kominato  in  the  province  of  Awa  at  the 
mouth  of  Yedo  Bay  in  A.D.  1222.  At  the  age  of  twelve,  he  became  a 
neophyte  in  the  Shingon  sect  of  Buddhists,  and  was  a<)mitted  to  the 
priesthood  three  years  later.  Shortly  afterwards,  he  a<lopted  the  name 
by  which  he  is  known  to  histor}-.  It  signifies  *  lotus  of  the  sun,'  and  is 
derived  from  a  dream  dreamt  by  his  mother  of  thestm  on  a  lotus-flower, 
in  consequence  of  which  she  became  pregnant.  He-acquired  a  thorough 
knowledge  of  the  whole  Buddhist  canon  by  a  miracle,  and  met  in  the 
course  of  his  studies  with  words  which  he  converted  into  the  formula 
Namu  myoho  renfje  kffo,  *0h,  the  scripture  of  tiie  Lotus  of  the 
Wonderful  Law !  * — a  formula  which  is  still  constantly  used  as  an 
invocation  by  his  followers.  Having  attracted  the  attention  of  the 
Regent  Tokiyori  by  the  unsparing  manner  in  which  he  attacked  other 
sects,  he  was  banished  to  the  peninsula  of  Izu  in  1261,  but  pardoned  soon 
after.  Ten  years  later,  his  enemies  persuaded  the  Regent  Tokinmne  that 
Nichiren'sdtKJtrines  tended  tosubvert  the  state.  He  was  seized  and  thrown 
into  a  cave  with  his  six  cliief  disciples,  and  condemned  to  be  beheaded 
the  same  niglit ;  but  when  brought  to  the  place  of  execution,  was  saved 
by  a  miracle,  the  executioner's  sword  failing  to  act  on  the  head  of  so  holy 
a  man,  and  Tokinmne,  warned  in  a  dream,  spared  his  life.  Nichiren  was, 
however,  banished  to  the  island  of  Sado  in  the  North,  but  was 
permitted  in  1274  to  return  to  Kamaknra,  then  the  military  capital  of 
Eastern  Japan.  He  next  retired  to  live  among  the  mountains  o£ 
Minobn  in  a  hut,  which  he  quitted  in  order  to  take  up  his  abode  with 
the  lord  of  t)ie  manor,  Nambu  Rokuro,  a  devotee  so  zealous  that  he 
bestowed  on  the  saint  and  his  sect  for  ever  all  the  lands  in  his 
possession.  As  crowds  of  disciples  flocked  to  Nichiren  for  instruction 
in  the  faith,  he  erected  a  small  shrine  which  became  the  nucleus  of  ihe 
now  famous  monastery  of  ISIinohu.  In  1282,  feeling  that  death  was 
approaching,  he  removed  from  Minobu  to  Ikegami,  near  the  modem 
city  of  Tokyo,  and  thnre  <lied.  His  body  was  burnt  on  the  spot  and 
the  bones  conveyed  to  Minobu,  only  a  small  portion  being  retained  at 
Ikegami  as  a  precious  relic.  His  zeal  and  his  intolerance  appear  to 
iiave  been  inherited  by  his  spirituid  children, — the  Nichiren-ahu,  or 
Hohhe-sha^  as  the  sect  derived  from  him  is  also  called,  having  paslied 


44  Introduction : — Celebrated  Personages, 

ilie  odium  fheologicum  to  n  degree  otiierwise  rare  in  tTapan.  The  chief 
outwiird  and  visible — or  ratlier  audible — sign  c»f  tlieir  temples  is  the 
drum,  which  the  devotees  beat  for  liours  to^etiier  to  keep  time  to  their 
chanting  of  the  sacred  formula  Namu  myoho  renge  Jcyo, 

NiTTA  YoSHiSADA,  a  Warrior  of  the  14th  century,  famed  for  hiB 
•  courage  and  for  his  devotion  to  the  Mikado's  cause  against  the  usurp- 
ing families  of  Hojo  and  Ashikaga. 

NOBUNAGA,^  properly  Ota  Nobunaga  (1534-1582),  was  a  warrior 
wlio,  in  the  general  scramble  for  land  and  power  which  went  on  in  the 
latter  lialf  of  the  16th  century,  gained  possession  of  the  provinces 
of  Surnga,  Mino,  Omi,  Mikawa,  Tse,  and  Echizen.  Having  next  taken 
Kyoto,  he  built  the  fine  castle  of  Nijo,  and  sided  wiih  Ashikaga  Yoshi- 
aki,  who  bv  his  influence  wa/3  made  Shoffun  in  1558.  Six  vears  later 
the  two  quarrelled.  Nobunaga  arrested  and  deposed  Yoshiaki,  and  the 
power  of  the  Ashikaga  famil}*,  which  had  lasted  two  hundred  and 
thirt3'-eight  years,  came  to  an  end.  By  the  aid  of  his  generals.  Hide- 
yoshi  and  leyasu,  he  brought  large  portions  of  the  Empire  under  his- 
sway,  but  never  obtained  the  title  of  Shogun,  which  custom  had  limited 
to  members  of  the  Minamoto  family,  whereas  Nobunaga  was  of  Taini 
descent.  Though  a  great  soldier,  iJCobunaga  lacked  the  administrative 
ability  to  foUow  up  and  consolidate  the  advantages  gained  in  war.  Conse- 
quently, when  he  was  assassinated  by  an  offended  subordinate  named 
Akechi,  his  power  died  with  him.  Nobunaga  was  a  bitter  enemy  to 
Buddhism.  Among  his  many  acts  of  violence,  was  the  destruction  of 
tlie  great  monastery  of  Hiei-zan  near  Kyoto  and  of  the  Hongwanji  at 
Osaka,  on  both  which  occasions  frightful  scenes  of  massacre  ensued. 
On  the  other  hand,  he  encouraged  the  Christians:  but  it  is  not  to  be  sup- 
posed that  a  nuin  of  his  stamp  did  so  out  of  any  appreciation  of  their 
reljgious  doctrines.  _ 

Okyo  (1733 — 1795),  properly  called  Maruyama  Okyo,  was  the 
founder  of  the  Shijo  school  of  painting,  whose  watchword  was  fidelity 
to  nature,  though,  as  Anderson  points  out,  their  practice  was  far  less 
radical  than  their  theor}',  and  did  not  lead  them  actually  to  reject  the 
conventionalities  of  tlieir  predecessors  in  art.  Okyo  was  specially 
successful  in  his  paintings  of  birds  and  fishes. 

Saico,  a  Samurai  of  the  Satsuma  clan,  whose  youth  coincided  vith 
the  closing  years  of  the  Japanese  ancien  regime^  conspicuously  dis- 
tinguished himself  on  the  Imperialist  side.  Before  the  triumph  of  the 
latter,  he  was  thrice  exiled  to  Vries  Island  as  a  political  suspect ;  but 
after  the  revolution  of  1868,  to  the  success  of  which  he  contributed 
80  materially  as  to  earn  the  title  of  Commancjer -in-Chief  of  the  Imperial 
army,  he  became  one  of  the  most  important  personages  in  the  state. 
His  programme,  however,  was  no  radical  one.  When  his  colleagues  in 
the  government  showed  tint  their  aim  was  not,  as  had  at  first  been 
asserted,  a  return  to  the  Japan  of  early  histoj'ic  days,  but  the  complete 
Europeanisation  of  the  country  and  the  abandonment  of  all  national 
usages  and  traditions,  Saigo  broke  with  them,  and  retired  to  the  city  of 
Kagoshima  in  Satsuma,  where  he  founded  a  military  school  to. which 
all  the  ardent  youth  of  Satsuma  and  Osumi  soon  began  to  flock.     The 

•  This    article  is  taken  almost  verbalh-  frr m  Griffis's  "  Mikado's  Empire,"  Cliap> 

xxni.  . 


Celebrated  Personages.  4& 

influence  of  tliis  scliool  precipitated  the  inevitable  conflict  between  the 
old  and  the  new  order  of  idejis.  It  broke  out  in  1877,  and  is  known  to 
history  as  the  Satsunia  Rebellion.  After  a  struo^gle  of  several  months, 
tlio  Imperialists  triumphed,  and  Saigo  himself  fell  on  the  24th  Septem- 
ber, as  did  the  whole  of  the  little  band  of  three  hundred  that  had  re- 
mained faithful  to  him  till  the  end.  Saigo  still  lives  in, popular  estima- 
tion as  the  most  perfect  example  of  a  brave  warrior  and  a  true  patriot; 
and  even  the  Imperial  Court  now  honours  his  memory,  the  ban  of 
degradation  having  been  removed  in  1890,  and  the  dead  Commander- 
in-Chief  re-instated  posthumousl}"  in  all  his  honours.  The  common 
people  say  that  Saigos  spirit  has  gone  to  dwell  in  one  of  the  brightest 
stars  of  heaven.  The  visit  of  the  Czarewitch  to  Japan  in  1891  helped 
to  give  credence  to  a  wild  notion  according  to  which  Saigo  had,  like 
Yoshitsune  centuries  before,  escaped  to  Siberia.  The  possibility  of  his 
returning  to  Japan  in  the  Czarewitch's  train  was  seriously  discussed  by 
several  newspapers,  and  one  adherent  of  the  old  school  of  Japanese 
etiiics  went  so  far  as  to  commit  haralclri  when  told  by  his  friends  that 
he  must  be  mad  to  believe  such  a  tale. 

,  Sesshij  (1421-152.7)  was  the  greatest  Japanese  artist  of  the  Chinese 
sclwud  of  painting.     Anderson  says  of  him  : 

'*  It  is  difficult  for  a  European  to  estimate  Sesshu  at  his  true  value.. ► 
Notwithstanding  the  boast  of  the  artist  that  the  scenery  of  China  was 
his  only  teacher,  and  the  credit  bestowed  upon  him  by  his  admirers  of 
having  invented  a  new  style,  he  has  in  no  respect  departed  from  the 
artificial  rules  accepted  by  his  fellow  painters.  He  was,  however,  an 
original  and  powerful  artist,  and  his  renilerings  of  Chinese  scenery 
bear  evidences  of  local  stud}'  that  we  look  for  in  vain  in  the  works  of 
his  successors.  The  grand  simplicity  of  his  landscape  compositions, 
their  extraordinary  breadth  of  design,  the  illusive  suggestions  of 
atmosphere  and  distance,  and  the  all-pervading  sense  of  poetr}', 
demonstrate  a  genius  that  could  rise  above  all  defects  of  theory  in  the 
principles  of  his  art." 

Shinran  Shoxin  (1173-1262)  was  the  founder  of  the  powerful  Ikko- 
sliu  sect  of  Buddhists,  also  called  Shinshu  or  Monto,  whose  splendid 
temples,  known  b}^  the  name  of  Ilongii-ftuji  or  Monzehl^  are  among 
the  chief  sights  of  most  Japanese  cities.  Hongwanji  means  *  the 
Monastery  of  the  Ueal  Vow,'  in  allusion  to  the  vow  made  by  Amida 
that  he  would  not  accept  Buddhahood  except  under  the  condition  that 
salvation  was  made  attainable  for  all  who  should  sincerely  desire  to  be 
born  into  his  kingdom,  and  signify  their  desire  by  invoking  his  name 
ten  times.  It  is  upon  a  passage  in  a  Buddhist  scripture  where  this  vow 
in  recorded  that  the  doctrine  of  the  sect  is  based,  its  central  idea  being 
that  man  is  to  be  saved  by  faith  in  the  merciful  power  of  Amida,  and 
not  by  works  or  vain  re  petition  of  prayers.  For  this  reason,  and  also 
because  its  priests  are  permitted  to  marry,  this  sect  has  sometimes 
been  called  the  Protestantism  of  Japan.  h\  the  year  1602,  political 
reasons  caused  a  split  in  the  sect,  which  since  that  time  has  been 
divided  into  u  Western  and  an  Eastern  branch — N'lM  Ilongicanji  and 
Higa^hi  Hongwanjiy — each  branch  owning  a  temple  in  every  considerable 
city  of  the  Empire.  Shinran  Shonin  was  descended  from  the  Imperial 
family.     The  abbots  of  the  sect  therefore  bear  the  title  of  Monzeki,  or. 


46  Introduction  : — Celebrated  Personages. 

Imperial  Offspring,  while  tlie  walls  enclosing  its  temples  are  allowed 
tlie  Hiiji-kabe.,  or  Mtripe<l  plaster  onianientatiou,  otherwise  reserved  for 
hnilditigs  inhabite^I  by  Imperial  princes.  Daring  the  present  reigo, 
-Shinran  Shunin  has  beon  honoured  by  the  bestowal  of  the  posthnnHiiui 
title  of  Kenshin  Daiflhi,  that  is  *  the  Great  Teaclier  who  Sees  the  Truth.* 

Shotokc  Taishi  (572-621),  the  Constantine  of  Japanese  Buddhism, 
was  son  of  the  Emperor  Yoinei  and  regent  nmler  the  Empress  Suiko, 
hnt  never  liimself  actually  ascended  the  thrune.  Ue  foumletl  a  large 
number  of  monasteries,  framed  a  short  coile  of  laws,  and  is  stiid  to 
have  intnKluced  the  use  of  the  calendar  into  Japan.  He  is  also  the 
reputed  author  of  numerous  paintings  and  sculptures,  which  AndersoD, 
however,  inclines  to  consi<ler  apocryphal. 

ShObun  (loth  century),  one  of  tlie  greatest  Japanese  painters  of  the 
-Chinese  school. 

80SRN  (1747-1821),  an  artist  of  the  Shijo  school,  famed  for  his 
paintings  of  monkeys. 

Takkxouchi  no  Sdkuxk,  the  Methuselah  of  Japan,  is  said  to  have 
Jived  two  hundred  and  iifty-five  years  (according  to  others,  three 
iiundred  and  sixty  years),  and  to  have  served  six  successive  Mikados. 
His  birth  is  supposed  to  have  taken  place  about  200  B.C. 

ToBA  SoJO,  an  abbot  of  tlie  13th  century,  is  famous  as  the  originator 
'  of  a  quaint,  coarse  style  of  picture  called  Toba-e. 

Yamato-take  no  Mikoto,  one  of  the  eighty  children  of  the  Emperor 
Keiko,  was  a  great  hero  of  the  pre-historic  age.  While  )-et  a  stripling, 
he  was  sent  by  his  father  to  destroy  the  rebels  of  Western  Japan, — 
an  object  wliicli  he  accomplished  by  disguising  liimself  as  a  girl,  ami 
making  the  rebel  chieftains  fall  in  love  with  him  while  carousing  in  the 
•cave  where  they  dwelt.  Then  suddenly  drawing  a  sword  from  his 
bosom,  he  smote  them  to  death.  He  next  subdued  the  provinc*e  of 
Izuiiio,  and  iinally  conquered  Eastern  Japan,  which  was  at  that  time 
a  birbarous  waste.  After  many  adventures  both  warlike  and  amorous, 
he  died  on  the  homeward  march  to  Yamato  where  the  Emperor  his 
father  held  his  Court. 

YoRiTOMO  (1147 — 1199)  was  the  founder  of  the  Shogunate,  the  first 
Japanese  Mayor  of  the  "Palace,  if  we  may  so  phrase  it.  A 
scion  of  the  great  house  of  Minamoto,  as  shrewd  and  ambitious 
as  he  was  unscrupulous  and  inhuman,  he  was  left  an  orphan  at  an 
•early  age,  and  barely  escaped  deatli  as  a  lad  at  the  hands  of 
Kiyomori,  the  then  all-powerful  Minister,  who  belonged  to  the  rival 
Taira  clan.  Kiyomori's  exactions  having  roused  the  indignation  of 
the  whole  Empire,  Yorit(mio  saw  that  the  moment  had  come  to  essay 
the  restoration  of  his  own  fortunes.  All  the  malcontents  eagerly 
ilocked  to  his  standard,  and  first  in  Eastern  Japan,  then  at  Kyoto, 
and  lastly  at  the  great  sea-fight  of  Dan-no-ura  near  Shimonoseki 
at  the  S.W.  end  of  the  Inland  Sea,  Yoritomo  defeated  the  Taira  and 
utterly  exterminateil  them,  putting  even  women  and  children  to  the 
«word.  Yoritomo  established  his  capital  at  Kamakura,  wliicli  soon^rew 
into  a  great  city,  thoroughly  reorganised  the  government  by  the  ap- 
pointment of  military  governors  chosen  from  among  his  own  clan  to 
4ict  conjointly  with  the  civil  governors  who  received  their  nominations 
from  the  Mikado,  by  the  levy  of  taxes  for  military  purposes  payable 


Population  of  the  Chief  Cities. 


47 


into  his  own  trensury,  nnci  by  otlier  fiir-siglitecl  innovalions  made  in  the 
joterests  of  a  military  femialisni.  At  last  in  1192,  lie  obtained — in 
other  words  forced — from  the  Court  of  Kyoto  the  title  of  Sel-i  Tai 
Shojun^  that  is  ^  Barbarian-subduing  Generalissimo/  which  soon 
came  to  denote  the  military  or  achial  king  of  the  country,  as  distin- 
Kaished  from  its  theoretical  head,  the  heaven-descended  Mikado. 
Yoritoino,  whose  life  had  been  spent  fighting,  died  peucefnily  in  his 
lieci.  Among  the  many  on  whom  he  trampled  to  satisfy  the  dictates  of 
|>er8onal  ambition,  was  his  own  brother  Yoshitsune,  a  far  nobler  hero. 
Though  Yoritomo's  system  of  government  rt*mained  in  vigour  for  well- 
nigh  seven  centuries,  the  sceptre  dropped  froui  his  own  family  in  the 
next  generation  after  his  death,  his  sons  Yoriie  and  Sanetomo  being 
weaklings  who  both  perished  by  assassination  at  an  early  nge. 

YoSHlTSUN^E  (b.  1159)  was  younger  halt'-hrotlier  to  the  first  Shogur> 
Yoritomo,  V>eing  the  son  of  Yoshitomo  by  a  beautiful  concubine  named 
Tokiwa.     By  yielding  to  the   wicked  desires  of  the  tyrant  Kiyomori^ 
Tokiwa  nbtained  pardon  for  her  son  on  condition  that  he  shaved   hi» 
liead  and  became  a  monk.     Accordingly  he  whs  placed  in  the  Buddhist 
raonustery   of   Kurama-yama   near   Kyoti».     But  theological  exercises 
were  so  little  to  his  taste  that  he  ran  away  to  Northern  Japan  in  com- 
pany  with.  H  friendly  merchant,  and  at  once  distinguished  himself  by 
the  valour  with  which  he  repelled  the  assaults  of  the  brigands,  slaying 
oeveral  with  his  own  hand,  though  then  himself  but  sixteen  years  of 
age.     When  Yoritomo  rose  in  arms  against  the  Taira  clan,  Yoshitsune 
naturally  joined  him.  and  became  his  greatest  general.     Indeed,  the  real 
guerdon  belonged  rightfully  to  the  younger  rather  than  to  the  elder 
brother.    Yoritomo,   far  from  feeljng  any  gratitude,  began  to  burn 
with  jealousy  and  to  detest  Yoshitsune  as  a  possible  rival.     He  even 
went  8o  far  as  to  compass  his  death.     But  Yoshitsune  escaped  again  to 
Northern  Japan,  where,  according  to  one  account,  he  was  discovered  by 
spies,  and  killed  after  a  desperate  fight  on  the  banks  of  the  Koromo- 
gawa,  his  head  being  sent  to  Yoritomo  at  Kamakura  preserved  in  mke^ 
Others  say  that  he  committed  harahWi  when  he  saw  that  all  was  lost. 
liaving  previously  killed  his  own  wife  and  children.     A  more  fanciful 
account  is  that  he  escaped  to  Yezo,  and  then  re-appeared  on  the  main- 
land of  Asia  as  Genghis  Khan.    This  fable  probably  originated  in  an 
accidental  similarity  between  the  Chinese  characters  used  to  write  the 
namefl  of  these  two  famous  men.     But  it  is  a  remarkable  fact  that  to 
this  day  Yoshitsune  remains  an  object  of  worship  among  the  Ainos  of 
Yezb.     To  the  Japanese  his  name  is  a  synonym   for  single-minded 
bravery  and  devotion.    The  traveller  will  often  hear  mentioned  in  con- 
nection with  the  name  of  Yoshitsune  those  of   Benkei,  his  faithful 
retainer,  and  Yasuhira,  the  traitor  suborned  by  Yoritomo  to  slay  him. 


26. — Population  of  Chief  Cities. 


Fakui  (Echizen).  . 
Fakuoka  (Chikuzen) 
Hakodate  .... 
Hirosliinvi.    .    .    . 


41,000 
53,000 
53,000 
89,000 


Hirosaki 30,000' 

Kagoshima     ....  57,000^ 

Kanazawa  (Kj>ga)  .    .  94,000 

Kobe 135,000 


48 


Introduction  : — Outline  Tours, 


Koclii 32,000 

Kofii 31,000 

Kunicamoto     ....  53,0()0 

Kyoto 279,000 

l^Iutsne 3G,000 

•MatPiiynnia  (Tyo)    .     .  32,000 

Morioku 31,000 

Nagasaki .55,000 

Nagoya 102,000 

Niigata 46,000 

Okayama 48,000 

0.saka 476,000 


Sakai  (Izunii)  .  . 
Sen<iai  .... 
Slninonoseki  .  . 
Sliiziiokn.  .  .  . 
TakamatfiU  (Sannki) 
Tokiisliiina  (Awa) 
Tokyo  (district  of) 
Toyama  (EtcliQ) 
Utsnnoniiva  . 
Wakayania .  . 
Yokohama  .  . 
Yokosuka    .     . 


4«.000 
1)0,000 
33,000 
37,000 
32,000 
61,000 
1,389,000 
58,000 
30,000 
56,000 
122,000 
32,000 


27. — Outline  Tours. 

1.  One  monlirs  tour  from  Yokoliama  : — 

Tokyo 2  (laye. 

Kamaknru  and  Eiiosliiina 1  „ 

IVIiyanosliita    3  „ 

From  Mi3'anosliita  to  Nagoya  by  Tokaido  Railway •...  1  „ 

^agoya  .\ i  „ 

From  Nagoya  to  Kyoto    1  „ 

Kyoto 4  „ 

Xake  Biwa  and  back  to  Kyoto 2  „ 

From  Kyoto  to  Nara,  Osaka,  and  Kobe 3  ,, 

Back  to  Yokohama  by  steamer  or  railway    1 J  „ 

From  Yokohama  to  Nikko    1  ,» 

Nikko  and  Chuzenji .^ 4  „ 

From  Nikko  to  Ikao  by  rail  via  Oyama  and  Maebashi 1  „  . 

Ikao  (visit  Harima)  2  „ 

From  Ikao  to  Myoo^i-san  via  Takasaki  1  ,. 

Hyogi-san  and  back  to  Yokohama  by  rail 1  „ 

Spare  days 2  „ 

31  „ 


This  tour  is  practicable  for  ladies  throughotit.     With  it  may  be  com- 
bined the  ascent  of  Fuji  from  Yokohama  (see  Route  9). 

2.  One  month's  tour  from  Nagasaki  : — 

Nagasaki  and  Onsen  (Unzen) 4  daj's* 

From  Nagasaki  to  Ko!)e  by  steamer  2     „ 

Nara,  Kyoto^  and  Lake  Biwa  i 5     „ 

From  Kyoto  to  Nagoya  by  Tokaido  Railway 1     „ 

From  Nagoya  to  Miyanoshita 1     „ 

Miyanoshita 3    „ 

From  ^livanoshita  to  Kamakura  and  Yokohama 1     ,, 

Yokphama 1     ,^ 

Tokyo *........ ..;; 2    ^, 


Outline  Touts*  A9 

•From  Tok^o  to  Nikko  and  b«ck 4  dayq^ 

Steuiuer  from  Yokohaiiiu  to  Nagasaki 4     ,^ 

Spiire  days 3    ,) 

31    „   * 

This  tour,  like  tlie  last,  is  practicable  for  ladies.  Sliortcr  tours  can 
easily  be  arranged  by  omitting  certain  portions  of  the  above. 

3.  Yokohama  to  Mi^'anoshita,  Hakone,  an(i  Atami  (see  Routes  6  and  7). 

4.  YokoliJima  to  Nikko,  tlie  copper-mines  of  Ashio,  down  the  valley 
of  the  Watarase-gawa  to  Oinama,  and  back  to  Yokohama  by  train. 
Five  da^'s.  ^  One  day  extra  for  Kosliin-zan  (Routes  16  and  17). 

5.  Yokohama  to  Nikko,  Chu/.enji,  and  Yumoto  ;  thence  over  the 
Konsei-toge  to  Maehashi,  and  back  to  Yokoliama  by  train.  One  week* 
Two  extra  days  to  visit  Ikao  at  end  of  trip  (Routes  16  and  18). 

_  6.  Yokobaiiia  to  Tachikawa  on  the  Hachioji  Railway  ;  thence  vi^ 
Ome  up  tbe  valley  of  the  Taniagawa  to  Kofu.  Kofu  to  Kajikazawa, 
and  down  tiie  rapids  of  tlie  Fujikawa  (visiting  Minobn)  to  Iwabuchi  on 
ihe  Tukaido  Railway.  One  week.  If  Mitako  be  visited,  one  day  more. 
All  this  is  included  in  Route  10. 

7.  Y^'okohama  to  Ikao,  Ist  day  ;  Ikao  to  Knsatsu,  2nd  day  ;  Kusatsii 
to  Sliibu  over  Shirane-san,  3rd  day  ;  Shibu  to  Toy(»no  and  Nagano,  4tli 
^la}'  ;  Nagano  vki  Karuizawa  to  Myogi-san,  5th  day.  Train  to  Yoko- 
liama in  4J  hrs.  One  day  extra  for  ascent  of  Asama-yama  from  Karui- 
zawa (Routes  14,  32.  13,  and  12). 

8.  Yokohama  to  Nagano  by  train,  back  to  Ueda  to  rejoin  the  Naka- 
«endu,  thence  along  the  Nakasendo  to  Gifu,  and  by  train  to  Kyoto. 
Eight  or  nine  days  (Routes  32,  39,  and  38). 

9.  Yokohama  by  the  Koshu-kaido  or  Nakasendo  to  Shimo-no-Suwa, 
and  down  the  rapids  of  the  Tenryu-gawa  to  the  Tokaido  Railway. 
Five  or  six  days  (Routes  10,  39,  and  35). 

10.  Yokohama  by  train  to  Shiogania,  by  water  to  ^latsusliima,  Ishino- 
maki,  Kinkwa-zan,  and  Oginohama,  whence  steamer  back  to  Yokohama* 
Six  days.  Three  extra  days  to  visit  Bandai-san  from  Motomiya  on 
Northern  Railway.  Two  extra  days  from  Sendai  for  Ichinoseki  by  train, 
an<l  descent  of  the  Kitakami-gawa  (Routes  24,  30,  and  21). 

11.  Kobe  to  Nagoya  by  rail  ;  steamer  from  Atsuta  to  Kami-Yashiro 
for  temples  of  Ise;  by  land  to  Seki,  and  by  the  Kwansei  Railway  to 
Kyoto._  Four  days  (Routes  38  and  37). 

12.  Osaka  through  Yamato  to  Koya-san  and  back.  Five  days  (Route 
46). 

13.  Kyoto  to  Tsurnga  on  the  Sea  of  Japan ;  overland  or  steamer  to 
Fnshiki,  steamer  to  Naoetsu,  rail  to  Tokyo.  Five  or  six  days  (Routes 
33,  32,  and  12). 

14.  Tour  of  the  Inland  Sea  and  Shikoku.  Time  uiy^ertain  (Routes 
50  to  53). 

*  15.  Nagasaki  to  tbe  solfataras  of  Onsen  (Unzcn)  and  back.    Three 
days  (Route  55). 

16.  Naga<;aki  to  the  hot-springs  of  Takeo,  and  back  via  the  potteries 
of  Arita.     Three  days  (Routes  55  and  56). 

17.  From  Nagasaki  by  steaiier  to  Misumi,  8  hrs.;  overland  to  Kuma- 


90  Introduction : — Outline  Totirs. 

moto;  tlience  viA  Yatstisliiro  and  Hitoyoslii  for  the  descent  of  tlifr 
rapids  of  tlie  Kuinagawa.  Six  days.  Tlie  trip  to  Hitoyoslii  and  back, 
omitting  Kuummoto,  may  be  made  from  Misumi  in  three  or  four  days 
(Route  57). 

18.  From  Nagasaki  by  steamer  v'ld  Hyakkwan  to  Wakatf^u,  Ist  day ; 
jinrikisha  to  Hida,  2iid  day;  by  the  Yabake  valley  to  Kakatsu,  3rd  day; 
0ita,  4th  day;  Takeda,  5th  day;  Sakanashi,  6th  day;  Knmamoto,  7tli 
day;  back  to  Nagusuki  by  steamer  from  Misumi,  8lh  day.  Three  or 
four  extra  days  are  required  for  the  descent  of  the  rapids  of  tlie  Kuma- 
g^awa  (Routes  56  and  57). 

19.  From  Hakodate  by  steamer  to  Olaru;  thence  to  Sapporo,  Volcano 
Bay,  and  back  to  Hakodate  overland.     Five  or  six  days  (Route  ^Q), 

20.  By  steamer  from  Hakodate  up  the  East  Coast  of  Yezo  and  to  the 
Southern  Ku riles  (Route  67). 


SECTION  I. 


EASTERN    JAPAN. 


(Routes  1 — 23. 


M  Introduction : — Outline  Tours. 

tnoto;  thence  viii  Yatsnshiro  and  Hitoyoslii  for  tlie  descent  of  tli» 
rapids  of  tlie  Kiiinagawa.  Six  days.  The  trip  to  Hitoyoslii  and  back, 
omitting  Kuummoto,  may  be  made  from  Misumi  in  three  orfmir  day» 
(Route  57). 

18.  From  Nagasaki  by  steamer  vid  Hyakkwan  to  Wakatfu,  Ist  day  ; 
jinrikisha  to  Hida,  2nd  day;  by  the  Yabake  valley  to  Nakatsu,  3rd  day; 
Oita,  4th  day;  Takeda,  5tli  day;  Sakanashi,  6th  day;  Kiimamoto,  Tth 
day;  back  to  Nagasaki  by  steamer  from  Misumi,  8lh  day.  Three  or 
four  extra  days  are  required  for  the  descent  of  the  rapids  of  the  Kuma- 
gawa  (Routes  56  and  57). 

19.  From  Hakodate  by  steamer  to  Olaru;  thence  to  Sapporo,  Volcano 
Bay,  and  back  to  Hakodate  overland.     Five  or  six  days  (Route  ()&). 

20.  By  steamer  from  Hakodate  up  the  East  Cuust  of  Yezo  and  to  the- 
Southern  Kuriles  (Route  67). 


SECTION  I. 


EASTERN    JAPAN. 


(Routes  1 2^, 


Handbook  for  Travellers 


IN 


JAPAN. 


ROUTES. 


KOUTE  1. 


Yokohama. 

Tokohaina>  the  place  where 
most  visitors  first  touch  Japanese 
soil,  is  the  largest  of  the  Treaty 
Ports  and  practically  the  port  of 
Tokyo. 

Hotels.— Grand  Hotel,  No.  20  j 
Club  Hotel,  No.  5-b,  both  on  the 
Bund  facing  the  sea;  Haefker's 
Hotel,  No.  87,  Main  Street. 

Begtauranis.  —  (Muropean  food). 
Nissei-ro,  in  Benten-dori. — (Japor 
Msefood).  Edoko,  in  Minami  Naka- 
dori,  noted  f orbits  eels  (unagi-meshi); 
Sanomo,  in  Ota-machi ;  Fukki-ro, 
near  the  Railway  Station. 

Japanese     Inns.  —  Yamazaki-ya, 

Tawara-ya,  Takano-ya,  Imamura- 
ya. 

Banks. — Hongkong  and  Shanghai 
Bank,  No.  2;  New  Oriental  Bank, 
No.  11 ;  Chartered  Bank  of  India, 
Australia,  and  China,  No.  78.  Also 
Agencies  of  the  Chartered  Mer- 
cantile Bank  and  the  Comptoir 
d'Escompte ;  Yokohama  Specie 
Bank  (Japanese). 

Con«*Za<€8.  —  British,  No.  172; 
American,  No.  234;  French,  No. 
84;  (German,  No.  81. 

Post  and  Telegraph  Office.— Thia, 
together  with  the    Telephcme  Ex- 


chcenge,  the  Custom  House  (Zeikwan), 
and  the  Prefecture  {Kenchd),  stands 
near  the  British  and  American 
Consulates  on  the  space  between 
the  Foreign  Settlement  and  the 
Japanese  town. 

Steam  Comfmunication.  —  Japan 
Mail  Steamship  Company  (Nippon 
Yusen  Kwaisha),  close  to  the  Rail- 
way Station ;  Peninsular  and  Orien- 
tal, No.  15 ;  Messageries  Maritimes, 
No.  9;  Norddeutscher  Lloyd,  No. 
29;  Pacific  Mail,  Occidental  and 
Oriental,  No.  4-a  ;  Canadian  Pacific, 
No.  200 ;  Agents  for  "  Glen"  line, 
Jardine,  Matheson  &  Co. ; ''  Castle  " 
line  and  "  Shire  "  line,  Adamson, 
Bell  &  Co;  "Ben"  line  Comes  & 
Co ;  "  Holt's  "  line,  Butterfield  and 
Swire. 

Churches. — Christ  Church  (An- 
glican), No.  105 ;  Union  Church 
(Protestant  Episcopalian),  No.  167; 
Roman  Catholic,  No.  80 ;  Methodist 
Church,  No.  221. 

Clubs. — Yokohama  United  Club, 
No.  5-A.;  Club  Q«rmania,  No.  235. 

Photographs  of  Japanese  scenery 
and  costumes. — Farsari  &  Co.,  No. 
16 ;  Welsh  &  Co.,  No.  86 ;  Kimbei, 
in  Honcho-dori;  Tamamura,  in 
Benten  -  dori  ;  Suzuki,  near  the 
Cricket  Q-round. 

Books  and  Maps  relating  to  Japan. 


54 


Pioute  1, — YokoJiama. 


—Kelly  and  Walsh,  No.  61 ;  Good- 
enough  &  Co.,  No.  56 ;  Farsari,  No. 
16. 

Foreign  Stores  for  Japanese  Works 
of  Art. — Deakin  Brothers  &  Co., 
at  the  Grand  Hotel  and  No.  16 ; 
Kuhn,  No.  67 ;  Shinagawa,  No.  35  ; 
Arthur  &  Bond's  Fine  Art  Gallery, 
No.  12 ;  Welsh  &  Co.,  No.  86. 

Japanese  Curio  Dealers. — Minoda 
Chojiro,  in  fionchd-dori,  fine  lac- 
quer, enamels,  and  ivories ;  Inoue, 
44,  Honcho-dori,  screens,  embroid- 
eries, etc. ;  Musashi-ya,  in  Honcho- 
dori,  jewellery,  ivories,  silver-ware, 
etc. ;  Nagasaki-ya,  in  Honcho-dori, 
jewellery,  metal- work,  ivories,  etc. ; 
Matsuishi-ya,  in  Honcho-dori, 
porcelain  in  European  shapes ; 
Tashiro-ya,  in  Benten-dori,  porce-. 
lain ;  Watano,  in  Honcho-dori, 
porcelain ;  Kosaka,  25,  Benten-dori, 
paper  fans ;  Shamokame,  15,  Hon- 
cho-dori, embroidery,  porcelain, 
and  enamels ;  Fine  Art  Exhibi- 
tion, in  Asahi-machi. 

SiUc  Stores. — Shobei,  Shieno,  both 
in  Honcho-dori;  Noboru-ya  Saku- 
bei,  in  Benten-dori;  also,  for 
cheaper  articles,  Yamaguchi  in 
Ot«>-machi,  and  Matsura,  52,  Ben- 
ten-dori. 

Emhroideries,  Silk  cmd  Cotton 
Crapes,  Japanese  Cottons,  etc. — No- 
zawa-ya,  '30,  Benten-dori,  Nicho- 
me;  Tamagata-ya,  opposite  No- 
zawa-ya. 

Japanese  Note-paper. — ^Tanikawa, 
in  Minami  Naka-dori  Itchome. 

Toys,  etc. — Nagai,  in  Honcho-dori. 

Bamboo  and  Bead  Blinds,  Cabinets, 
etc. — Moriyasu,  62,  Benten-dori  Shi- 
cbome. 

Japanese  Theatres,  etc. — ^Tsuta-za, 
in  Isezaki-ch5 ;  Minato-za,  in  Sumi- 
yoshi-cho,  in  the  native  town, 
where  there  is  also  generally  a  sort 
of  fair.  Fairs  are  held  in  honour 
of  Yakushi  in  Motomachi  Itchome 
on  the  8th  and  12th  of  every 
month,  and  at  Nogeyama  in  honour 
of  the  Sun-Goddess  and  of  Fud5, 
on  the  Ist,  15th,  and  28th. 

Pvhlie  Garden  and  Cricket  Ground. 


n 


n 


— At  the  back  of  the  Settlement, 
behind  the  American  Consulate; 
Bluff  Gardens,  No.  230. 

Hfevoapapers.  —  "  Japan  Ga.zette, 
"  Japan  Mail,"  and  "Japan  Herald, 
daily. 

HiBTOBT.— Yokohama  owes  its  com- 
mercial  importance  to  the  foreigners  who 
have  settled  there.  It  was  an  insignificant 
fishing  village  when  Commodore  Perry 
anchored  off  it  in  1864;  and  when  it  vras 
agreed  to  open  a  Treaty  Port  in  this  part 
of  tlapan,  tne  choice  naturally  fell,  not  on 
Yokohama,  but  on  the  thriving  tofvn  of 
Kanagawa,  on  the  opposite  side  of  the 
small  Day  now  partially  filled  in.  But  the 
Japanese  Government,  finding  Kanagawa 
inconvenient  because  of  its  situation  on 
the  Tdkaid5,  at  a  time  when  collisions 
between  foreigners  and  the  armed  re- 
tainers of  the  Daimyds  passing  to  and 
from  the  capital  were  to  be  appre- 
hended, gave  facilities  for  leasing 
ground  at  Yokohama  instead.  Thither 
accordingly  the  merchants,  anxious  to 
open  up  trade,  repaired  in  1869.  The 
consuls  protested  against  the  change ; 
but  the  only  lasting  result  of  their  pro- 
test is  the  retention  of  the  name  Kana- 
gawa in  certain  ofS-cial  documents.  The 
superiority  of  the  Yokohama  anchorag^e 
doubtless  reconciled  the  foreign  com- 
munity to  the  inferior  position  of  the 
place  on  a  mud  flat  facing  North.  The 
greater  portion  of  the  Settlement,  aa  it 
now  exists,  dates  from  after  the  fire  of 
1866,  and  the  filufE  on  which  most  of 
the  well-to-do  residents  have  their 
dweUings  was  first  leased  for  building 
purposes  in  18'{7.  A  large  and  rapidly 
growing  native  town  has  sprung  up 
outside  the  foreign  Settlement.  The 
government  of  the  Settlement,  at  one 
time  in  the  hands  of  a  mixed  foreign 
municipality,  is  at  present  administered 
by  the  Prefect  of  Kanagawa.  The  last 
of  the  English  soldiers,  by  whom  the  Set- 
tlement was  at  one  time  protected,  left 
Japan  in  March  1875.  Waterworks  were 
constructed  under  the  dii'ection  of  Major- 
General  Palmer,  R.  B.,  and  opened  in 
October  1887  to  supply  Yokohama  from 
the  Sagami-gawa,  28  m.  distant. 

It  should  be  explained  that 
although  the  streets  have  names, 
these  are  comparatively  little  used, 
as  the  numbering  of  the  whole 
Settlement  is  continuous,  irrespec- 
tive of  street  names.  A  similar 
remark  applies  to  the  Bluff. 

Yokohama  possesses  a  Public 
Hall  where  theatrical  and  other 
entertainments  are  given,  a  fine 
Masonic  Hall,  and  a  Race  Oourso. 


Route  2, — Excursions  from  Yokohama. 


55 


Sace  meetings,  often  attended 
l)y  His  Majesty  the  Mikado,  are 
lield  in  spring  and  autumn. 
Though  Yokohama  offers  little  to 
1>he  sightseer^  the  curio-hunter 
'will  here  find  himself  in  his  ele- 
ment, and  the  lover  of  the  pictur- 
esque wiU  revel  in  the  beautiful 
landscapes  for  which  the  neigh- 
bourhood is  famous. 


ROUTE  2. 

EXCXTBSIONS  FBOM  YOKOHAMA. 

1.  KAHAETTBA  AND  THB  DAIBUTSU. 
2.  ENOSHIHA.  8.  DZT7SHI  AND 
HOBIUCHI.  4.  EANAZAWA  AND 
MINE.  6.  SUeiTA  AND  TOMIOKA. 
6.  TOK08UKA,  XTBAGA,  AND  MI- 
BAKI.  7.  THE  CAVES  OF  TOTSUKA. 
8.    OTAMA.      9.    disc.      10.  EOZIT. 

1. — Kamakttba. 

Kamakura  is  reached  from  Yoko- 
hama in  50  min.  by  the  Tokaido 
Kailway,  changing  carriages  at 
Ofuna  Junction.  This  branch  line 
continues  on  to  Dzushi  and  Yoko- 
suka,  being  altogether  21^  miles  in 
length. 

Kamakara,  once  the  populous 
capital  of  Eastern  Japan,  has  now 
shrunk  into  a  sea-side  village 
which  is  a  favourite  health  resort 
of  the  Yokohama  residents.  The 
*£[aihin-in  Hotel  or  Marine  Sana- 
torium, situated  under  a  pine- 
grove  near  the  shore,  is  20  min. 
walk  from  the  Bailway  Station. 
The  Japanese  inn,  Mitsuhashi,  may 
also  be  recommended.  Both  pro- 
vide hot  and  cold  salt-water  baths. 

Kamaknra  was  the  seat  of  govern- 
ment in  Eastern  Japan  from  the  end 
of  the  12th  to  the  middle  of  the  16th 
century.  Yoritomo,  who  established  the 
Shdgnnate  in  1192,  chose  this  place  as 
his  capital,  and  here  was  laid  the  found- 
ation of  that  peculiar  system  of  govern- 
ment by  the  military  class  which  pre- 
vailed up  to  the  year  1868.  The  city  of 
Kamakura,  in  the  time  of  Yoritomo's 
immediate  successors,  extended  all  over 


the  plain  and  into  the  recesses  of  the 
different  yatau,  or  dells,  which  branch 
off  from  it  among  the  hills.  Its  popula- 
tion is  believed  to  have  exceeded  one 
million  in  the  days  of  its  glory.  Kama- 
kura was  the  scene  of  innumerable  con- 
tests between  rival  feudal  factions,  and 
of  many  bloody  deeds.  Here  on  the 
sea-shore  were  beheaded  the  Mongol 
ambassadors  from  Kublai  Khan,  who 
had  imperiously  sent  to  demand  the 
submission  of  Japan  to  his  sway.  The 
city  was  repeatedly  sacked  and  laid  in 
ashes,  and  seems  never  to  have  fully 
recovered  from  the  disasters  of  the  year 
1466.  The  neighbouring  city  of  Odawara, 
which  next  rose  into  importance  as  the 
seat  of  the  powerful  Hoj5  family,  at- 
tracted to  itself  large  numbers  of  the 
inhabitants  of  Kamakura,  the  ruin  of 
which  town  was  completed  by  the  found- 
ing of  Yedo  in  A.D.  1603. 

The  chief  sights  of  Kamakura 
are  the  Temple  of  Hachiman,  the 
Daibutsu  or  colossal  bronze  Bud- 
dha, and  the  great  image  of  the 
goddess  Kwannon.  They  all  lie 
within  a  mile  of  the  hotel. 

The  Temple  of  Hachiman,  the 
God  of  War,  dating  from  the  end 
of  the  12th  century,  stands  in  a 
commanding  position  on  a  hill 
called  Tsuru-ga-oka,  and  is  ap- 
proached by  a  stately  avenue  of 
pine-trees  leading  up  the  whole 
way  from  the  sea-shore.  Though 
both  avenue  and  temple  have 
suffered  from  the  ravages  of 
time,  enough  still  remains  to 
remind  one  of  the  ancient  glories 
of  the  place.  Three  stone  torii 
lead  up  to  the  temple,  which 
stands  at  the  head  of  a  broad 
flight  of  stone  steps.  Notice  the 
magnificent  ichd  tree,  nearly  20 
ft.  in  circumference  and  said  to  be 
over  a  thousand  years  old. 

Before  ascending  the  flight  of 
steps,  the  minor  shrines  to  the 
r.  deserve  passing  notice.  The 
nearer  one,  painted  red  and  called 
Wakamiya,  is  dedicated  to  the 
Emperor  Nintoku,  son  of  the  God 
of  War.  The  further  one,  re- 
novated in  1890,  is  called  Shira- 
hata  Jinja  and  dedicated  to  Yori- 
tomo. The  style  and  structure 
are  somewhat  unusual,  black  and 
gold  being  the  only  colours  em- 


66 


Route  2. — Ejccursions  from  Yokohama, 


ployed,  and  iron  being  the  mate- 
rial of  the  four  chief  pillars.  In 
the  interior  is  a  small  wooden 
image  of  Yoritomo. 

A  side  path  leads  up  hence  to  the 
main  temple,  which  is  enclosed 
in  a  square  colonnade  painted  red. 
The  temple,  which  was  re-erect- 
ed in  1828  after  having  been 
destroyed  by  fire  seven  years  ear- 
lier, is  in  the  Ryobu-Shint5  style, 
with  red  pillars,  beams,  and 
rafters,  and  is  decorated  with 
small  painted  carvings  chiefly  of 
birds  and  animals.  In  the  colon- 
nade are  several  religious  cars  {mi 
koshi)  used  on  the  occasion  of  the 
semi-annual  festival  (15th  April 
and  15th  September),  a  wooden 
image  of  Sumiyoshi  by  Unkei, 
and  a  few  relics  of  Yoritomo. 
Most  of  the  relics  once  preserved 
in  the  temple  have  been  removed 
to  the  residence  of  the  Chief 
Priest  {Hakozaki  Oyatsu-kwan),  and 
are  only  exhibited  at  festival  time. 

Immediately  behind  the  temple 
of  Hachiman,  is  a  small  hill  called 
8hirdhata-yama,  whence  Yoritomo 
is  said  to  have  often  a-dmired  the 
prospect.  The  base  of  the  hill  has 
recently  been  enclosed  and  laid  out 
as  a  garden. 

The  Daibutsu,  or  'Great  Bud- 
dha,' stands  alone  among  Japan- 
ese works  of  art.  No  other  gives 
such  an  impression  of  majesty,  or 
so  truly  symbolises  the  central 
idea  of  Buddhism — ^the  intellect- 
ual calm  which  comes  of  perfected 
knowledge  and  the  subjugation 
of  aU  passion.  But  to  be  fully 
appreciated,  the  Daibutsu  must  be 
visited  many  times. 

There  hfiui  been  a  temple  in  this  plswje 
eince  the  8th  century,  but  the  image  is 
of  much  later  date.  Its  precise  history  is 
involved  in  obscurity.  Tradition,  how- 
ever, says  that  TJoritomo,  when  taking 
part  in  the  dedication  of  the  Daibutsu 
at  Nara,  conceived  the  desire  of  having 
a  similar  object  of  worship  at  his  own 
capital,  but  died  before  he  could  put 
the  plan  into  execution.  One  of  the 
ladies  of  his  court  undertook  to  collect 
funds  for  the  purpose,  and  in  the  year 


1252  Jhe  Kamakura  Daibutsu  was  cast 
by  Ono  Goroemon,  History  tells  of 
two  such  imHges.  The  first,  a  wooden 
one,  was  designed  by  a  priest  who  col- 
lected money  far  and  wide  amon?st  all 
classes,  and  in  1238  the  head  of  the 
image,  so  ft.  in  circumference,  was  in 
its  place,  while  the  temple  in  which  it 
stood  was  completed  in  1241  and  dedi- 
cated in  l'i!43.  This  image  is  said  to 
have  represented  Amida,  and  to  have 
been  destroyed  by  a  tempest.  The 
second  is  spoken  of  as  a  gilt  bronze 
image  of  Shaka,  and  the  casting  is  said 
to  have  been  begun  in  1252.  The  pre- 
sent one  represents  Amida,  and  notwith- 
standing the  difference  of  name,  is  pro- 
bably the  bronze  image  spoken  of  above 
as  dating  from  1252.  It  was  enclosed  in 
a  large  building  60  yds.  square,  whose 
roof  was  supported  on  sixty-three  mass- 
ive wooden  pillars.  Many  of  the  stone 
bases  on  which  they  stood  are  still  in 
situ.  The  temple  buildings  were  twice 
destroyed  by  tidal  waves  in  1869  and 
1494,  after  which  they  were  not  rebuilt. 
Since  that  time  the  image  has  remained 
exposed  to  the  elements. 

The  Daibutsu  is  best  seen  from 
about  half-way  up  the  approach. 
Its  dimensions  are  approximately 
as  follows : — 

•  FT.       IK". 

Height 49  7 

Circumference    97  2 

Length  of  face    8  5 

Width  from  ear  to  ear 17  9 

Eound  white  boss  on  fore- 
head      1  3 

Length  of  eye: 3  11 

„       of  eyebrow    4  2 

„       of  ear 6  6 

„       of  nose  3  9 

Width  of  mouth 3  2 

Height  of  bump  of  wisdom.  9 
Diameter  of  bump  of  wis- 
dom       2  4 

Curls  (of  which  there  are 

830):  Height  9 

Do.     Diameter 1 

Length  from  knee  to  knee  35  8 
Circumference  of  thumb  ...     3 

The  eyes  are  of  pure  gold,  and 
the  silver  boss  weighs  30  pounds 
avoirdupois.  The  image  is  formed 
of  sheets  of  bronze  cast  separately, 
brazed  together,  and  finished  off  on 
the  outside  with  the  chisel.  The 
hollow     interior     of     the    in  age 


Kamnkura  and  Enoshima. 


67 


contains  a  small  shrine,  and   the 
visitor  may  ascend  into  the  head. 

The  Temple  of  Kwannon  stands 
not  far  from  the  Daibutsu  on 
an  eminence  commanding  a 
beautiful  view  of  the  sea-shore 
towards  Misaki,  and  over  the 
plain  of  Kamakura.  The  great 
image  of  the  Goddess  of  Mercy, 
for  which  this  temple  is  cele- 
brated, stands  behind  folding 
doors  which  a  small  fee  to  the 
attendant  priest  will  suffice  to 
open ;  but  the  figure  can  only  be 
indistinctly  seen  by  the  dim 
light  of  a  few  candles.  It  is  of 
brown  lacquer  gilded  over,  and 
its  height  is  30  ft.  5^  in.  The 
admirable  bronze  seated  figure 
of  Dainichi  Nyorai  on  the  1.  was 
presented  by  the  Shogun  Ashi- 
kaga  Yoshimasa  (b.  1436,  d.  1490). 

Close  to  this  temple  is  a  cliff 
called  Inamura-ga-saki,  from  the 
top  of  which  a  magnificent  view 
can  be  obtained. 

In  1333,  when  the, city  of  Kamakura 
was  attacked  by  the  partisans  of  the 
Emperor  G-o-Daigo.  part  of  the  force  led 
by  Nitta  Yoshisada  advanced  along  the 
strand  from  the  W.  of  this  hill,  but  were 
unable  to  pass  under  the  cliff  owing  to 
ehevaux-de-frite  being  placed  against  it 
down  to  the  water's   edge,  while   their 

{)as8age  in  boats  was  prevented  by  a 
ong  row  of  war- junks  lying  some  500  or 
WiO  yds.  out  at  sea.  Yoshisada  there- 
fore climbed  the  cliff,  and  after  praying 
to  the  Sea-God,  flung  his  sword  into  the 
sea,  whereupon  the  tide  miraculously 
retreated,  leaving  a  space  a  mile  and  a 
half  wide  at  the  foot  of  the  cliff,  along 
which  he  marched  his  army  into  Kama- 
kura. 

2. — ExosHnncA. 

This  most  picturesque  spot, 
though  called  an  island,  is  more 
properly  a  peninsula ;  for  only  at 
very  high  tides  is  it  surrounded 
by  the  sea.  The  prettiest  way 
there  is  by  the  road  called  Shichi-ri- 
ga-hama  *  skirting  the  beach  from 
Kamakura,  and  through  the  vi  lage 
of    Katase.      The    distance    from 

•Literally,  the  "seven  ri  shore,"  the 
r»  \n  early  times  having  oqI.y  consisted  of 
six  eho  in  Eastern  Japan. 


Kamakura  is  4  miles.  Jinrikishas 
can  be  taken  as  far  as  Katase, 
whence  it  is  a  short  walk  across  the 
neck  of  sand  joining  Enoshima  to 
the  mainland. 

A  sKghtly  more  direct  way  of 
approaching  Enoshima  is  from 
Fujisawa  station  on  the  Tokaido 
Railway,  whence  it  is  1  ri  by  jin- 
rikisha  to  Katase. 

Half  way  is  the  Yukial-gawa,  which, 
though  but  an  insignificant  streamlet, 
is  worthy  of  mention  on  account  of  the 
following  incident  :— 

When  Nichiren  was  miraculously  de- 
livered from  the  hand  of  the  executioner 
at  the  neighbouring  village  of  Koshigoe, 
a  messenger  was  at  once  despatched  to 
KfCmakura  to  ask  for  further  orders, 
while  at  the  same  moment  a  reprieve 
was  sent  from  the  palace  of  the  Regent 
Tokiyori.  The  two  messengers  happen- 
ed to  meet  at  this  stream,  whence  the 
name  of  Tuldai-gavoa^  which  means 
*  the  river  of  meeting.* 

Enoshima,  being  a  popular  holi- 
day resort,  is  full  of  excellent  inns. 
The  best  are  the  Iwamoto-in,  Klinki- 
ro,  and  Ebisu-ya.  There  is  fair  sea- 
bathing. The  shops  of  Enoshima 
are  full  of  shells,  corals,  and 
marine  curiosities  generally,  many 
of  which  are  brought  from  other 
parts  of  the  coast  for  sale.  The 
beautiful  '  glass  rope  sponge ' 
(Hyalonema  sieholdi),  called  hosu- 
gai  by  the  Japanese,  is  said  to  be 
obtained  from  a  reef  deep  below 
the  surface  of  the_seia,  not  far 
from  the  island  of  Oshima,  whose 
smoking  top  is  visible  to  the  S. 
on  a  clear  day. 

From  the  earliest  ages  .  the 
island  was  sacred  to  Benten,  the 
Buddhist  Goddess  of  Luck;  but 
this  cult  has  now  been  exchanged 
for  that  of  three  Shinto  god- 
desses. To  these  objects  of  wor- 
ship several  temples  have  been 
re-dedicated.  But  the  spot  con- 
sidered most  sacred  of  all  is  the 
large  cave  on  the  far  side  of  the 
island.  It  is  124  yds.  in  depth, 
the  height  at  the  entrance  being 
at  least  30  ft.,  but  diminishing 
gradually  towards  the  interior. 
The    rocks    near    the    cave     are 


68 


Route  2, — Excursions  from  Yokohama, 


frequented  by  divers,  who  for  a 
few  cents  bring  up  shell-fish 
from  the  deep,  which,  however, 
they  are  suspected  of  having  pre- 
viously concealed  about  their 
persons. 

At  Katase  stands  the  temple  of 
Bynkdji,  founded  after  Nichiren's 
death  by  six  of  his  disciples,  and 
built  on  the  spot  where  his  ex- 
ecution was  to  have  taken  place. 
It  possesses  a  number  of  excellent 
wood-carvings. 

3. — DZXJSHI  AND  HOBITJCHI. 

Dznshi,  on  the  railway,  2^ 
miles  to  the  S.  E.  of  Eamakura, 
is  the  station  for  Horiuclii,  li 
miles  distant,  which  has  lately 
risen  into  favour  as  a  sea-side 
resort,  some  of  the  wealthier 
residents  of  Tokyo  and  Yokohama 
having  built  villas  there.  The 
road  from  Dzushi  to  Horiuchi  is 
practicable  for  jinrikishas,  and  the 
view  from  it  one  of  the  loveliest  in 
Japan, — Fuji,  which  rises  straight 
from  the  waters  of  Odawara  Bay, 
forming  the  central  feature  of 
the  scene.  The  Hikage-no-Chaya 
inn  at  Horiuchi  may  be  recom- 
mended. A  little  nearer,  the 
station,  across  a  ferry,  there  is 
another  inn  known  aB  the  Onsen, — 
rather  a  poor  plsice,  but  with 
better  bathing.  From  the  Hika- 
ge-no-Chaya, bathers  have  a  walk 
of  about  3  min.  to  reach  a  good 
beach.  Half  a  mile  beyond  the 
Hikage-no-Chaya  there  is  a  beauti- 
ful wooded  promontory  called 
Morita  Myojin,  and  the  whole 
walk  for  2  m.  further  along  the 
coast  unfolds  a  succession  of  ex- 
quisite scenes. 

4. — Kanazawa  and  Mine. 

Jinrikishas  may  be  taken  the 
whole  way ;  two  men  required. 
The  total  distance  is  4  ri  30  chd 
(IJf  miles),  the  road  being  flat 
for  the  first  6  m.,  as  far  as  the 


hamlet  of  Seki  {Inn,  Ishikawa-ya), 
and  after  that,  very  hilly. 

[At  the  hamlet  of  Tanaka,  10 
cho  beyond  Seki,  a  road  prac- 
ticable most  of  the  way  for 
jinrikishas,  turns  off  r.  to  a 
hiU  called  Mine,  which  com- 
mands a  wonderfully  extensive 
view.  The  finest  prospect  is 
towards  the  N.,  looking  down 
on  a  multitude  of  furrowed 
ridges  that  stretch  away  to 
the  mountains  of  Kotsuke.  To 
the  W.,  the  sea  is_visible  near 
Hiratsuka  and  Oiso  on  the 
T^aido,  and  beyond  it,  Fuji 
with  the  Oyama  and  Hakone 
ranges.  The  distance  from 
Tanaka  to  Mine  is  28  cho,  s&y 
2  mUes.] 

On  reaching  the  crest  of  the 
ridge,  the  wondrous  beauty  which 
has  led  the  foreign  residents  to 
bestow  on  this  neighbourhood 
the  name  of  the  Plains  of  Heaven, 
suddenly  reveals  itself.  A  scene 
of  perfect  loveliness  may  be  en- 
joyed from  a  wayside  tea-house 
called  NoJcendo,  which  nestles 
under  a  pine-tree  known  as  the 
Fvde-sute-matsu,  because  a  Japa- 
nese artist  of  oMen  times  here 
flung  away  his  pencil  in  despair. 
At  the  spectator's  feet  is  a  wide, 
cultivated  valley,  bordered  by 
pine-clad  hills  and  opening  out 
to  the  shores  of  an  inlet,  whose 
still  waters  are  partly  hemmed 
in  by  smaU  peninsulas  and  islets, 
with  to  the  1.  the  promontory 
of  Kwannon-saki,  and  on  the  op- 
posite side  of  Tokyo  Bay  the  long 
crest  of  Nokogiri-yama.  The 
most  conspicuous  of  the  islands 
are  Natsushima  (Webster  Island) 
with  Sarushima  (Perry  Island) 
beyond  it,  and  Eboshi-jima  which 
is  much  smaller  and  to  be  re- 
cognised by  its  triangular  shape. 
But  a  mere  catalogue  of  names 
can  avail  nothing  towards  con- 
veying an  idea  of  the  peculiar 
magic  of  a  scene  which  might  be 


Route  2, — Kanazawa,     Sugita,     Yokosuka, 


59 


the  original  that  inspired  the 
Japanese  landscape  painter's  art. 

KanazAUva  (Inns,  Chiyo-moto, 
Azuma-ya),  on  the  shores  of  the 
Mutsura  Inlet,  is  chiefly  noted 
for  its  Hak-kei,  a  characteristically 
Japanese  view  from  a  small 
height  just  outside  the  village. 
Close  to  the  ferry  at  Nojima  {Inn, 
Nishino  -  ya)  is  a  celebrated 
peony  garden,  which  attracts 
crowds  from  Tokyo  during  the 
season  of  flowering.  Some  of  the 
plants  are  said  t^  be  over  300 
years  old.  Kanazawa  may  also 
be  reached  by  the  coast  road 
vid  Tomioka  on  foot  in  3  hrs. 
The  way  back  to  Yokohama 
may  be  pleasantly  varied  by 
taking  the  jinrikisha  road  across 
the  neck  of  the  little  peninsula 
of  Misaki  to  the  Dzushi  station 
on  the  Yokosuka  branch  of  the 
Tokaido  Railway,  a  distance  of 
24  ri  (6  miles).  The  run  in  from 
Dzushi  to  Yokohama  takes  1  hr. 

This  trip  may  advantageously 
be  combined  with  a  visit  to  Kama- 
kura,  the  station  beyond  Dzushi. 

5. — SuaiTA  AND  TOMIOKA. 

It  is  a  very  pleasant  walk  or 
jinrikisha  ride  of  about  2  ri,  or  4f 
miles,  from  Yokohama  to  Sngita 
(Inns,  AzumsL-ya  and  others), 
famous  for  its  plum-blossoms ; 
and  1  ri  further  on  to  Toiiiioka 
(Inns,  Kimpa-ro,  Kaihin-ro),  a 
favourite  resort  of  the  Yokohama 
residents,  on  account  of  the  good 
searbathing  in  Mississippi  Bay. 
Tomioka  may  also  be  easily 
reached  by  boat  from  the  cutting 
at  the  back  of  the  Settlement 
in  about  40  min.,  the  distance  from 
the  Settlement  to  the  point  where 
the  boat  is  taken  being  approxi- 
mately 1  ri.  .  The  whole  neighbour- 
hood is  delightfully  picturesque. 

A  favourite  afternoon's  walk  is 
to  Macpherson's  Hill  {JAoritsvika), 
on  the  way  to  Sugita.  This  hill 
commands  a  fine  view  of  Missis- 


sippi   Bay    and    of  the  country 
towards  Fuji. 

6. — Yokosuka,  Ubaga,  and 
Misaki. 

Yokosuka  is  the  terminus  of 
the  Of  una  -  Eamakura  -  Dzushi  - 
Yokosuka  branch  line  of  railway, 
and  is  reached  from  Yokohama  in 
\\  hr.  Steamers  also  ply  between 
Yokohama  and  Yokosuka  several 
times  daily.  The  little  line  of  rail- 
way passes  through  characteristic- 
ally Japanese  scenery  —  wooded 
hiUs  rising  up  abruptly  from  valleys 
laid  out  in  rice-fields,  with  here  and 
there  a  cottage  or  a  tiny  shrine 
half-hidden  in  a  rustic  bower. 
Tlie  train  darts  in  and  out  of 
short  tunnels  under  some  of  these 
hills  before  reaching  the  sea-shore 
at  Yokosuka. 

Yokosuka  (Inn,  Mitomi-ya ;  ¥w- 
eign  restaurant,  Kaiyo-ken),  which 
but  a  few  years  ago  was  a  poor 
village,  is  rapidly  growing  in  im- 
portance, on  account  of  the  Govern- 
ment Dockyard  established  there. 
Foreigners  can  usually  obtain  ad- 
mittance by  presenting  their  cards 
at  the  gate;  but  it  is  safer  to  provide 
oneself  with  an  introduction  from 
the  naval  authorities.  The  town  is 
prettily  situated  on  a  landlocked 
bay.  Its  chief  interest  for  English- 
men lies  in  the  fact  that  here  lived 
and  died  Will  Adams,  the  first 
Englishman  that  ever  reached  the 
shores  of  Japan. 

Will  Adams,  a  native  of  Gillingham  in 
Kent,  was  chief  pilot  to  a  fleet  of  Dutch 
ships  which  reached  the  Southern  coast 
of  Japan  on  the  19th  April,  A.D.  IfKK). 
Brou^t  as  a  prisoner  into  the  presence 
of  leyasu,  Adams  soon  won  the  favour 
of  that  astute  ruler,  who  employed  him 
both  as  a  ship-builder  and  as  a  kind  of 
diplomatic  agent  when  other  English  and 
Dutch  traders  began  to  Hrrive.  Adams* 
constantly  reiterated  desire  to  behold  his 
native  land  again  and  the  wife  and 
children  whom  he  had  left  behind,  was  to 
the  last  frustrated  by  adverse  circum- 
stances. He  consoled  himself  by  taking 
another  wife,  a  Japanese,  with  whom  he 
lived  until  his  death  in  l620atHemi,  a 
suburb  of  Yokosuka,  where  the  railway 
station  now  stands. 


60 


Route  2. — Excursions  Jvijin  Yokohama, 


His  grave  and  that  of  his  Japa- 
nese wife  are  situated  on  the  top  of 
a  hill,  i  hr.  walk  from  the  rail- 
way station.  The  Japanese  call 
the  place  Anoin-zuka,  from  Anjin 
which  means  "  pilot,"  that  having 
been  the  appellation  by  which 
Adams  was  commonly  known.  The 
tombs  are  of  stone  in  the  ordinary 
Japanese  style.  Will  Adams'  monu- 
ment is  without  an  inscription, 
while  that  of  his  wife  bears  the 
posthumous  title  which  every  good 
Buddhist  receives  from  the  priests 
of  the  parish  temple.  The  site  has 
been  well-cared  for  ever  since  the 
discovery  and  identification  of  the 
tombs  in  1872  by  Mr.  James  Walter 
of  Yokohama.  Not  only  is  the 
situation  of  the  graves  most  pictur- 
esque, but  the  eminence  on  which 
they  stand  affords  a  lovely  view  of 
land  and  sea.  The  place  is  to  be 
recommended  as  a  pleasant  spot 
for  a  picnic. 

Another  vantage-point  just  out- 
side the  opposite  or  E.  end  of  Yoko- 
suka^  is  Kome-no-yama,  a  cliff  on 
which  stands  a  temple  of  the  Nichi- 
ren  sect  called  Ryuhonji,  possessing 
some  good  carvings.  The  level 
stretches  at  the  foot  of  the  cliffs 
have  recently  been  reclaimed  from 
the  sea. 

The  distance  from  Yokosuka  to 
Uraga  is  1  n  32  cho  (4^  miles) 
along  an  excellent  road.  A  little 
more  than  _  half-way  lies  the 
hamlet  of  Otsn,  where  there  is 
excellent^ Japanese  accommodation 
at  the  Otsu-kwan,  with  a  good 
beach  for  sea-bathing. 

llratra  (Inn,  *Yoshikawa  in 
Nishi-Uraga)  is  built  on  both  sides 
of  a  very  narrow  fiord-like  har- 
bour, and  the  two  divisions  thus 
formed  are  called  respectively  Higa- 
shi  Uraga  and  Nishi  Uraga,  i.e.. 
East  and  West  Uraga.  They  are 
connected  by  a  bridge  and  a  ferry. 

In  former  times  all  junks  entering  the 
Bay  of  Yedo  were  stopped  at  Uraga  for 
inspection,  and  it  was  here  that  Com- 
modore Perry  anchored  on  the  8th  July, 
1853,  bearing  with  him  the  letter  of  Pre- 


sident Fillmore  to  the  Shogun,  the  result 
of  which  was  to  open  J  apan  to  foreign 
intercourse. 

Uraga  is  noted  for  its  manu- 
facture of  mizu-ame,  a  sweet  and 
wholesome  preparation  from  sake- 
malt,  somewhat  resembling  honey 
in  taste.  It  is  worth  while  devoting 
^  hr.  to  the  climb  up  Atago-yama, 
a  hill  at  the  back  of  Nishi  Uraga, 
close  to  the  Yoshikawa  Inn,  com- 
manding a  fine  view  of  the  town 
and  harbour.  The  hiUs  beyond  the 
sea  to  the  E.  are  the  Boshu  range. 

Uraga  is  in  daily  steam  com- 
munication with  Tokyo,  the 
steamers  touching  at  Eachiyama, 
Tateyama,  and  other  ports  on  the 
Boshu  side.  The  passage  from 
Tokyo  takes  about  4  hours. 

It  is  a  walk  or  jinrikisha  ride 
of  4  n  3  chd  (10  miles)  to  Misaki, 
first  along  the  sands,  and  then  over 
a  cultivated  upland  commanding 
a  fine  view  of  Fuji,  the  Hakone 
and  Oyama  ranges,  and  the  op- 
posite shores  of  the  bay. 

Misaki  (Inns,  Ki-no-kuni-ya,  Ao- 
yagi ;  accommodation  can  also  be 
obtained  at  Jogashima)  offers,  as 
a  somewhat  unusual  attraction, 
a  Marine  Biological  Laboratory 
(Misaki  Rinkai  Jikken-jo)  connect- 
ed with  the  Science  College  of 
the  Imperial  University.  The 
marine  fauna  of  this  district  being 
particularly  rich  in  rare  forms, 
dredging  has  produced  results 
highly  interesting  to  the  zoologist. 
A  lighthouse  stands  on  the  island 
of  Jogashima,  15  cho  from  the 
mainland,  with  which  it  is  con- 
nected by  a  ferry. 

One  may  complete  the  tour  of 
the  Sagami  Peninsula,  at  the  ex- 
tremity of  which  Misaki  stands,  by 
a  pleasant  walk  of  about  7  ri  (17 
miles)  along  the  coast  to  Dzushi  or 
Eamakura. 

7. — The  Caves  op  Totsuka. 

XTaya  no  Ana.) 

Though  known  to  foreigners  as 
the  Caves  of  Totsuka,  these  caves 


Caves  of  TotsuJca.    Oyama, 


61 


are  really  nearer  to  Ofuna,  the 
next  station  beyond  Totsuka  on 
the  Tokaido  Railway,  40  min.  run 
from  Yokohama.  They  lie_at  a 
distance  of  12  or  15  cho  from  Ofuna 
station,  but  nearly  1^  ri  from 
Totsuka  station.  Whichever  sta- 
tion it  be  decided  to  alight  at,  the 
trip  on  to  the  caves  can  be  done 
by  jinrikisha,  and  lies  through 
pretty  scenery.  The  caves  are  well 
worth  a  visit;  but  as  they  are 
apt  to  be  wet,  it  is  advisable  to 
wear  old  clothes  for  the  occasion. 
The  best  time  to  choose  is  the 
spring,  as  the  cherry-trees  too  will 
then  be  seen  to  advantage.  Candles 
are  provided  at  a  house  near  the 
entrance,  where  also  it  would  be 
possible  to  picnic.  A  local  guide 
will  point  out  the  Buddhist  carvings 
with  which  the  walls  and  ceilings 
are  adorned. 

These  caves  with  their  carvings 
are  a  monument  of  modern  Bud- 
dhist piety.  Existing  in  embryo 
since  the  Middle  Ages  (they  are 
said  by  tradition  to  have  served 
for  the  coneealment  both  of  troops 
and  of  treasure  in  the  14th  cen- 
tury), they  have  only  been  excavat- 
ed to  their  present  extent  by  an 
old  man  still  living — one  Sato 
Shichizaemon,  also  known  as 
Kinoue-no-Inkyo  —  whose  family 
have  for  generations  been  rich 
peasants  in  this  locality.  In  the 
year  1851,  this  man  was  urged  in  a 
dream  to  devote  his  life  to  making 
these  caves  into  an  imperishable 
shrine  to  various  Buddhist  divin- 
ities, and  especially  to  the  Goddess 
Benten.  This  he  accordingly  did 
and  still  continues  to  do,  employing 
his  own  money  for  the  enterprise 
and  local  talent  for  the  carvings. 
Among  the  latter  may  be  (Ss- 
tinguished  angels,  dragons,  lions, 
birds  both  natural  and  mythical, 
the  Twelve  Signs  of  the  Zodiac,  the 
Eighteen  Eakan,  the  Thirty-Three 
Kwannon  of  the  district  of  Chichi- 
bu,  and  other  Buddhas  innumer- 
able.    To  explore  the  caves  pro- 


perly takes  about  1  hr.  The 
rock  being  quite  soft,  it  may  be 
feared  that  this  strange  monument 
will  not  prove  as  lasting  as  old 
Mr.  Sato  piously  anticipates. 

8. — Otama. 

This  celebrated  mountain,  about 
4,000  ft.  high,  is  most  easily  reached 
from  Yokohama  by  alighting  at 
Hiratsuka  station  on  the  Tokaido 
Eailway,  a  run  of  a  little  over  1 
hr.;_thence  by  jinrikisha  to  the  vill. 
of  Oyama  on  the  lower  slope,  3i 
ri  (9i  miles)  distant.  It  is  a 
favourite  goal  of  pilgrims,  who 
continue  to  be  attracted  to  its 
shrine,  although  the  old  Buddhist 
objects  of  worship  have  here,  as 
in  so  many  other  parts  of  the 
country,  been  replaced  officially 
by  comparatively  obscure  Shin- 
to deities.  Indeed,  according  to 
Satow,  it  is  uncertain  who  these 
gods  are;  but  the  best  authority 
asserts  that  the  chief  deity  is 
Iwanaga-hime,  sister  to  the  god- 
dess of  Mount  Fuji.  The  people 
of  the  neighbouring  country-side 
often  call  the  mountain  by  the 
name  of  Sekison-san. 

Jinrikishas  are  left  at  the  vill.  of 
Koyasii  (Iriri,Koma-ya),  along  street 
of  steps,  which  at  its  _  upper  end 
changes  its  name  to  Oyauia  (Inn, 
*Kame-ya,  with  curious  garden). 
Such  of  the  inhabitants  as  do 
not  keep  houses  of  entertainment 
for  the  pilgrims  who  flock  here 
during  the  month  of  June,  busy 
themselves  with  the  manufacture 
of  rosaries,  toys,  and  domestic 
utensils.  The  traveller  wiU  notice 
that  the  posts  of  two  shrines  in 
the  village  are  so  much  cut  away 
in  the  centre  as  scarcely  any 
longer  to  support  the  roof.  This 
has  been  done  by  devotees  who 
believe  that  the  chips  act  as 
charms. 

The  ascent  and  descent  of  the 
mountain  take  from  4  to  4^  hrs., 
but  are  far  more  fatiguing  than 


62 


Eoute  S, — Yokohama  to  Tokyo  by  RaiL 


most  climbs  of  the  same  length 
owing  to  the  multitude  of  steps. 
A  little  way  beyond  the  inns,  a 
stream  rushes  out  of  a  hole  in  a 
rocky  wall  some  20  ft.  high,  and 
falls  into  a  pool,  in  which  it  is  con- 
sidered highly  meritorious  to  bathe 
as  long  as  the  cold  can  be  endured. 
Some  way  further  up,  the  en- 
trance to  the  sacred  domain  is  in- 
dicated by  a  torii  perched  on  the 
top  of  a  flight  of  steps.  Here  the 
traveller  has  to  choose  between  the 
Otoho-zaka  ('man's  ascent'),  and 
Onna-zaka  (*  woman's  ascent '),  the 
former  a  continuous  series  of  steep 
flights  of  high  steps,  the  latter 
longer  but  less  fatiguing.  Both 
paths  unite  higher  up.  The  view 
from  this  point  includes  the  plains 
of  Sagami  and  Musashi,  with  the 
river  Banyu,  Capes  Misaki  and 
Sunosaki  at  the  entrance  of 
Tokyo  Bay,  the  sea,  and  the  moun- 
tains of  Kazusa.  Some  flights 
of  steps  lead  up  to  the  main 
temple,  whence  it  is  a  climb  of  28 
cKq  to  the  summit  which  commands 
a  view  of  Fuji,  the  wooded  top  of 
Tanzawa,  the  mountains  of  Nikko, 
Enoshima,  etc. 

9. — OlSO  AND  Kozu. 

Oiso  is  1  ^  hr.  from  Yokohama  by 
the  Tokaido  Railway.  A  pleasant 
day  may  here  be  spent  loitering  on 
the  beautiful  beach  and  bathing  in 
the  sea.  There  is  a  lovely  view  : — 
to  the  r.,  Fuji,  the  Hakone  range, 
and  the  peninsula  of  Izu :  ahead, 
Vries  Island;  to  the  1.,  the  pro- 
montory of  Misaki  with  the  islet 
of  Enoshima.  The  Toryo-kwan  at 
Oiso  is  an  excellent  inn  in  Japanese 
style,  at  which  some  simple  Euro- 
pean dishes,  such  as  fried  fish, 
omelette,  and  chicken,  may  be 
obtained,  and  where  there  is  a 
resident  doctor. 

Oiso,  though  apparently  so  in- 
significant a  place,  is  of  consider- 
able antiquity.  Mention  of  it 
occurs  in  the  story  of  the  Soga 


Brothers*    Revenge    in    the    12th 
century  (see  Route  6). 

Kozu  (inn,  Hayano),  the  station 
beyond  Oiso,  is  another  pleasant 
sea-side  village,  having  much  the 
same  view,  and  well-protected  from 
cold  winter  winds — an  advantage 
to  which  the  groves  of  orange- 
trees  covering  all  the  surrounding 
slopes  bear  witness. 


ROUTE  8. 
Yokohama  to  ToktO  bt  Rail. 


Distance 

from 

Yokohama. 

Names 

of 
Stations. 

BemarkB. 

Um. 
6i 
7* 
12 

14f 

18 

YOKOHAMA. 

Kanagawa. 

Express    mnn 
through. 

/Change  carri- 
ages for  Sub- 

•  urban  and 
Northern  Kail- 

Vways. 

Shimbashi  St. 

Kawasaki    

Omori    

Shinagawa 

TOKYO  

■  The  railway  journey  from  Yoko- 
hama to  Tokyo  occupies  60  min. 
The  line  skirts  the  shores  of  Tokyo 
Bay,  with  the  old  Tokaido  high- 
way recognisable  at  intervals  on 
the  r.  by  its  avenue  of  pines.  This 
railway,  built  by  English  engineers 
and  finished  in  the  autumn  of  1872, 
was  the  first  line  opened  to  traflBlc 
in  Japan. 

Soon  after  leaving  Yokohama, 
the  Tokaido  Railway  branches  off  1. 
Observe  the  fine  view  of  Fuji  near 
the  first  station, 

Eanagawa,  once  a  noted  post- 
town  on  the  Tokaido,  and  intimately 
connected  with  the  first  settlement 
of  foreigners  in  this  part  of  Japan. 
(See  p.  54.) 


II 
I 

h 

u 

I 
1 


Route  4, — Tokyo. 


68 


Kawasaki  (Inn,  Asada-ya)  is 
noted  for  a  temple  situated  If  m. 
from  the  station,  dedicated  to 
Kobo  Daishi  and  commonly  known 
as  Daishi  8ama.  So  great  is  its 
popularity  tliat  special  trains  are 
run  on  the  21st  of  each  month  to 
accommodate  the  crowds  that  visit 
it.  The  greatest  festival  is  on  the 
21st  March,  when  the  grounds  are 
filled  with  cheap  staUs  and  itin- 
erant shows.  The  temple  possesses 
some  excellent  carvings.  The  river 
which  is  crossed  just  beyond  Kawa> 
saki  is  the  Tamagawa  or  Kokugo, 
the  upper  course  of  which  is 
romantically  beautiful  and  is  de- 
scribed in  !Boute  10.  Between  this 
Station  and  the  next,  the  Nikko 
and  Chichibu  ranges  come  in  view 
ahead  to  the  1.    On  approaching 

Omoii,  the  fine  wooded  blufi  seen 
1.  is  the  site  of  the  noted  monastery 
of  Ikegami.  Immediately  above 
the  station  lie  the  grounds  of  a 
tea-house  commanding  a  fine  pro- 
spect, and  the  range  of  the  Imperial 
Japanese_£ifle  Club.  The  shell- 
heaps  of  Omori  discovered  by  Prof. 
Morse  have  furnished  interesting 
prehistoric  remains,  which  have 
been  the  subject  of  vehement  dis- 
cussion among  the  learned.    At 

ShinagaTFa  are  seen  the  forts 
built  in  the  bay  during  the  latter 
days  of  the  Shogunate,  but  now 
dismantled  because  useless  in 
modern  warfare.  Just  beyond  the 
Cras.  Works,  the  line  skirts  r.  the 
prettily  laid  out  garden  of  the  Shiha 
RikyO,  one  of  the  minor  Imperial 
palaces,  and  soon  after,  the  train 
enters  the  Shimbashi  Terminus, 
and  the  traveller  is  in  Tokyo. 


BOUTE  4. 

Tokyo. 

Tokyo,  also  called  Tokei,  former- 
ly Yedo. 

Hotels. — Imperial  Hotel  and  To- 
kyo Hotel,  both  centrally  situated ; 
Club  Hotel,  *in  Tsukiji;  Seiy6ken, 
near  the  Shimbashi  terminus,  with 
branch  in  Ueno  Park.  • 

Japanese  Inns.  —  Fushimi-ya,  in 
Koku-cho;  Higuchi-ya,  in  Shiro- 
kane-cho ;  Karimame-ya,  in  Baku- 
ro-cho, — all  in  the  Nihon-bashi 
district. 

Restaurants. — (Foreign  food)  Fu- 
getsu-do,  near  Shimbashi,  with 
confectionery  shop ;  Sanyen-tei, 
in  Shiba  Park;  Fujimi-ken,  not 
far  from  the  British  Legation ; 
Mikawa-ya,  in  Kanda. — (Japanese 
food)  Taozen,  at  San-ya,  Asakusa ; 
Yaomatsu,  at  Mukojima;  Hirasei, 
in  Fukagawa;  Tokiwa-ya,  in  Yagen- 
bori. 

Tea-houses  ('for  entertainments  in 
Japanese  style). — Nakamura-ro,  at 
Ryogoku ;  Ibumura-ro,  at  Asakusa ; 
0-un-tei,  in  Ueno  Park. 

Club. — The  Tokyo  Club,  occupy- 
ing a  portion  of  the  Hokumei-kwan, 
6  min.  from  Shimbashi  terminus. 

Foreign  Legations. — ^Austro  Hun- 
gary, 15,  Kami  Nibanch5 ;  France, 
1,  lida-machi  Itchome ;  Germany, 
14,  Nagata-cho ;  Great  Britain,  1, 
Kojimachi  Gobancho ;  Holland 
(Denmark  and  Norway),  3,  Shiba 
Sakae-cho;  Italy,  4,  Sannen-cho; 
Bussia,  -  1,  Ura-Kasumi-ga-seki  ; 
United  States,  1,  Akasaka  Enoki- 
saka. 

General  Post  Office. — At  Yedo- 
bashi. 

Central  Telegraph  Office. — In  Ko- 
biki-cho,  near  the  Shimbashi  ter- 
minus. Sub-offices  in  various  dis- 
tricts of  the  city. 

Telephone  Exchange. — In  No.  1 
Eirakucho  Nichome,  with  fifteen 
Call  Offices  in  the  city. 

Parks. — Shiba,  Ueno,  and  Asa- 
kusa. 


liottle  4. — Tukyo. 


[uteams. — Tto  Hakubntm-kwaB, 

TTeno  Park ;    Educational  Mu- 

am,    in    the    Seido    at   Hougo ; 

.iiseum  of  Arms,  in  the  grounds 

I  the  Shokouaba  temple  at  Koji- 

Puilic  lilirarv— TheTosho-kwan, 
n  Ueno  Park. 

Chvxches. — Church  of  England,  in 
Shiba  Sakae-choi  AmerioBJi  Epis- 
lopal.  Union  Church  (Protestant), 
Soman  Catholic,  all  in  Taukiji; 
jentralTaber»ac*e,inHong6;  Eus- 
lian  Orthodox,  at  Suruga-dai. 

Theaires.— Kahuki-za,  in  Kobiki- 
•ho;  Shintomi-za,  inTsukiji;  Na- 

Wrestling. — At  Eko-in,  in  Honjo, 
^ce  yearly  for  ten  days  in  winter 
ind  spring.  Also  at  other  times 
md  places  not  fixed. 

Boeoars  {Kwankiia). — In  Shiba 
Park,   and    smaller    ones    in    the 

A  Sailvyay,  officially  styled  the 
'  TokjO  and  Akabane  Juaction," 
tut  generally  known  as  the  Sub- 
irban  or  Circular  Railway,  afiorda 
kn  easy  means  of  reai^hing  certain 
Ktints  on  the  outskirts  of  the  city. 
I'he  following  is  a  schedule  of  the 
itations  \-^ 


s  -i 

Names 

s^^ 

at 

=i"° 

SUCione. 

SHIHBASHI. 

"iSO. 

n 

SUiDjikn  JcC. 

iS^^cE' 

\l\ 

Uajlro. 
ItabflBbi. 

i«i 

AKABANE  Jet. 

Conveyamcea. — Jinrikishas  are  in 
iniversal  nae.  Tramcara,  not  much 
latrunised  by  Europeans,  run  from 
he  Shimbashi  terminus  along  the 
irincipal  thoroughfare  to  Ueno 
jld  Asakusa,  Omnibuses  are  be- 
Parties    may 


Livery  stahlet.  —  Eawanishi  at 
Monzflla-mae  in  Taukiji ;  Nishi- 
kaji  at  Nishiki-cho,  Kanda,  Itcho- 

Steom  Comtnunicoiion, — The  com- 
pany called  the  Tokyo  Wan  Kiaen- 
Gwaisha  runs  steamers  to  Uraga 
in  tbe  Misaki  peninsula,  and  to 
Kanaya,  Kachiyama,  Hojo,  Tate- 
jama,  etc.,  on  the  other  side  of 
TpkyoBaj.  Twicfldaily,  viz.,  7  a.h. 
and  8  A.u.,  taking  7  hrs.  to  reach 
Tateyama. 

2.  The  same  company  mns 
steamers  to  Yawata  and  other 
small  ports  at  the  head  of  the  Bay 
and  to  Eisarazn.  Daily  at  8  a.m., 
taking  4  hrs.  to  reach  Kiaarazu. 

3.  Also  to  Ataani  and  Ajiro, 
sometimes  continuing  on  to  Shi- 
moda  in  the  province  of  Izu.  Sail- 
ings iiregnlar.      Tiiue,  8  brB.   to 

All  the  steamers  of  the  above 
company  start  from  &eigan-jima. 

TbeTsii-un  Kwaisha  runs  steam- 
era  on  the  Tonegawa,  of  which 

4.  Those  of  the  Shimo-Tone,  or 
Lower  Tonegawa  line,  run  to  Cho- 
shi,  Ofonatau,  and  Uokoda,  touch- 
ing at  various  minor  places  on  the 
river.     Daily  at  7  p.k. 

6.  Those  of  the  Kami-Tone,  or 
Upper  Tonegawa  line,  run  to  Gyo- 
toku,  Ichikawa,  Matsndo,  Shin- 
kawa,  Sekiyado,  Kurihashi,  Eo^, 
and  minor  points  higher  up.  Datlj 
at  8  p.B.    Time,  14  hrs.  to  Koga. 

The  steamers  of  the  Tsn-un. 
Kwaisha  start  from  Byo^oku-bashi. 

The  local  steamers  are  but  little 


the 


better  class  of  Japanese,  as  they  ai 
small  and  make  scant  pretension 
to  comfort.  There  is  not  even 
always  a  distinction  of  classes, 
though  it  is  sometimes  possible  to 
secure  a  aeoarate  room  by  paving 
the  price  of  fite  tickets.  The  fares 
are  extremely  low. 
The   following   are  some  of  the 


Shops.     Festicals, 


65 


cliief  shops  at  which  articles  likely 
to  interest  the  tourist  are  sold : — 

Porcelain. — Kawamoto,  dealer  in 
Owari  ware,  at  No.  6,  Ginza  Nicho- 
me ;  Imari,  at  Kanda  Imagawa- 
bashi,  and  Takahashi,  at  Nihon- 
bashi  Tomijima-cho,  for  various 
kinds  of  ware. 

Lacquer.  —  Saito  Masakichi,  at 
No.  12,  Ginza  Nichome ;  Nakamura 
Kinosuke,  at  Kyobashi  Owari-cho 
!N"ich6me.,  Both  the  above  deal  in 
gold  lacquer,  while  the  two  follow- 
ing sell  various  other  kinds,  pro- 
vincial specialties,  etc. :  Kuroe-ya, 
at  Tori  Itchome;  Suruga-ya,  in 
Bakuro-cho. 

Bronze. — Miyao,  at  No.  1,  Nihon- 
bashi  Hon-Shirokane-cho  (large 
things) ;  Mikawa-ya,at  Soto-Kanda 
Hatago-cho  Itchome  (chiefly  small 
things). 

Cloisonne. — Namikawa,  at  No.  8, 
Nihon-bashi  Shin-emon-cho. 

Swords.  —  Murata  Kimbei,  at 
Nihon-bashi  Kawasekoku-cho  (also 
sells  other  curios). 

Ivory. — Wakatake,  at  No.  6,  Ni- 
hon-bashi Hisamatsu-ch5 ;  Sawada- 
ya,  at  No.  8,  Ryogoku  Yonezawa- 
cho  Nichome. 


Paper  and  Fans. — Haibara,  at  No. 
1,  Nihon-bashi  Tori  Itchome. 

Old  Silk  and  Damask. — Iwamoto 
Denshichi,  at  No.  16,  Nihon-bashi 
Kawasekoku-cho ;  Morita,  at  No.  8, 
Nihon-bashi  Sanai-cho. 

Curios  in  General. — Daizen,  in 
Naka-dori  _(chiefly  for  expensive 
articles) ;  Osaka-ya,  at  No.  20,  Ni- 
hon-bashi Aomono-cho ;  Ebi-ya,  at 
No.  5,  Nihon-bashi  Jikken-dana 
(specialty,  old  lacquer)  ;  Handa-ya, 
at  No.  5,  Nihon-bashi  Honkoku-cho 
Itchome. 

8ilk  Mercers. — Daimaru,  in  Hata- 
go-cho ;  Echigo-ya,  in  Muro-machi ; 
Shiroki,  in  Tori  Itchome;  Mizu- 
shima  (also  sells  European  articles 
for  presents),  in  Honcho  Itchome, 
— aU  in  the  Nihon-bashi  district. 

There  is  also  a  very  interesting 
street  called  Naka-dori,  running 
parallel  to  the  main  thoroughfare 
between  Kyobashi  and  Nihon- 
bashi,  full  of  shops  where  old 
curios  and  brocade  are  exposed  for 
sale.  The  best  Bazaars  (Kwan- 
koha),  where  new  articles  of  every- 
day use  may  be  bought  are  those 
in  Shiba  Park,  Ginza  (Maruju  no 
Kwankoha),  at  Kanda  Ogawa-machi, 
and  at  Kudanzaka-shita. 


Chief  Popular  Festivals. 


DATE. 

Monthly,  5th 

Monthly,  10th  

Monthly,  17-18th... 

Monthly,  21st   

Monthly,  24th  

First   Bay    of    the 
Hare  (hatsu-^)  ... 

April  17th 

April  18th 

May  6-8th 

June  3rd 

June3-14th   


NAME  OP  FESTIVAL. 

8uiten-gu    

Konvpira 

Kwannon    

Daishi 

Atago  Jinja   


Myokendo    

Toshogu 

8anja  Matsuri    

Shokonsha  (races,  etc.). 

Kumano  Jinja    

Tenn^)  Matsuri  


Mid- July    Kawa-hiraki     (Opening 

of  the  River)    

July  7- 14th    Tenno  Matsuri  

July  15th    Sanno 


WHERE  HELD. 

Kakigara-cho. 

Tora-no-mon. 

Asakusa. 

Kawasaki. 

Atagoshita. 

Yanagi-shima. 
Shiba  and  Ueno  Parks. 
Asakusa. 
Kudan. 

ligura  and  Aoyama. 
Shinagawa,  Yotsuya,  Asa- 
kusa, Senji. 

Ryogoku. 

Nakabashi. 

Nagata-cho. 


66 


Route  4, — Tokyo. 


DATE. 


NAME  OF  FESTIVAL. 


WHEBE  HELD. 


July  loth   Hikawa  Jivja Akasaka. 

July  15th    Hachiman  Nagata-chd. 

September  1  l-20th..  Shimmei  Matsuri  Shiba. 

September  13th    . . .   Ushijima  no  Jinja Mukojima. 

September  14-1 6th..  Kanda  Myojin    Kanda. 

October  12-13th    ...  0    Eshihi  (Anniversary 

of  Nichiren's  death)...  Ikegami  and  Hori-no-uchi. 

October  15th Karvda  Myojin    Kanda. 

November  6-8th   ...  S?idfc<m8?ia,  (races, etc.)...  Kudan. 

November  22-28th. .  0  Kd  Mairi     Monzeki  temple  at  Asakusa. 

November  (on  Days 

of  the  Bird,  tori 

n^  hi)  Tori  no  machi Asakusa. 

Akin  to  the  popular  festivals  (matsuri)  are  the  following  fairs  (ichi), 
held  at  the  close  of  the  year  for  the  citizens  to  make  seasonable 
purchases : — 

December  13th Tenno  Sama    Shinagawa. 

December  15th Hachiman   Fukagawa. 

December  17-I9th...  Kwannon Asakusa. 

December  20-21st. . .  Kanda  Myojin    Kanda. 

December  22-23rd.. .  Shimmei Shiba. 

December  23-24th...  Atago  Atagoshita. 

December  25th Tenjin , Hirakawa. 

December  27-28th...  Fvdo    Yagen-bori. 


Flowers. 

Flum  -  blossoms.  —  The  Kameido 
Ume-yashiki  and  the  Kamata  Ume- 
yashiki  near  Kawasaki,  at  end  of 
January  and  beginning  of  Fe- 
bruary. 

Cherry-blossoms.  —  Ueno,  Muko- 
jima, and  Shiba,  early  in  April  j 
Koganei,  middle  of  April. 

Peonies. — Florists*  gardens  at  So- 
mei,  end  of  April;  Shokwa-en  in 
Azabu,  beginning  of  May. 

Wistarias, — Kameido,  first  week 
in  May. 

_  Aealea^s.  —  Florists'    gardens    at 
Okubo-mura,  early  in  May. 

Irises. — Horikiri  beyond  Muko- 
jima, early  in  June. 

Convohmli. — Florist's  gardens  at 
Iriya  in  Shitaya,  end  of  July  and 
beginning  of  August. 

LotiLs-fiowers. — Lake  Shinobazu 
at  Ueno  and  the  Castle  moats,  be- 
ginning of  August. 

Chrysanthemums.  —  Dango-zaka 
and  Asakusa,  beginning  of  Novem- 
ber. 


Maples. — Kaianji  at  Shinagawa, 
beginning  of  November;  Oji,  mid- 
dle of  November. 

Principal  Places  Worth  Visiting. — 
Shiba  and  Ueno  Parks  (Tombs  of 
the  Tokugawa  Shoguns  in  both, 
the  former  most  easily  accessible). 
Temple  of  Kwannon  at  Asakusa, 
Hakubutsu-kwan  Museum  at  Ueno, 
the  Kwankoba  Bazaar  in  Shiba, 
Atago  Tower  for  view  of  the  city. 
Drive  along  the  main  street  {Chin- 
za)  to  Nihon-bashi  and  round  the 
inner  moat. 

Time  to  Chief  Points  by  jinrikisha 
with  two  men. 

From  Shimbashi  terminus  to : — 

Imperial  Hotel    5  Min. 

Tokyo  Hotel    7 

Club  Hotel 12 

Rokumei-kwan    5 

British  Legation    18 

American  Legation    10 

Shiba  Park  10 

Ueno  Park   35 

Asakusa  (Kwannon) 40     „ 


*» 


» 


>f 


» 


»> 


it 


y» 


History  and  Topography, 


67 


History  awd  TopoaiLLPHT. — Previous 
to   its  becoming  the  military  capital  of 
Japan  in  the  year  1590,  Yedo  was  little 
more  than  a  rude  fortress  surrounded  by 
a  fe*^  scattered  villages.    This  fortress 
was   founded  in  14&6  by  a   certain  Ota 
Dokwan.    From  1486  to  1624,  it  was  held 
by  vassals  of  the  Uesugi  family,  but  in 
the  latter  year  was  taken  from  them  *by 
H9j5  Ujitsuna,  who  was  then  rising  to  be 
roler  of  the  Eastern  provinces,  and  had  his 
capital  at  Odawara,  close  to  the  foot  of 
the  Hakone  pass.  In  the  13th  century,  the 
the   district   now   called  Asakusa  stood 
on  tlie  sea-shore,  at  the  mouth  of  a  con- 
siderable inlet.    The  name  Yedo  means 
*  Estuary  Grate.*    At  the  time  leyasu  took 
possession  in  1690,  the  coast  on  the  E.  side 
of  the  river  had  advanced  greatly  below 
Asakusa ;  but  large  lagoons  still  occupied 
areas  which  have  since  been  filled  up  and 
bnilt  over.  Ota  D5kwan's  fortress  occupied 
a  portion  of  the  ground  which  was  later 
included  in  the  Palace  of  the  Shoguns  and 
now  in  that  of  His  Majesty  the  Emperor. 
The  Shdgnn's  Palace,  or  Castle  as  it  was 
often  called,    was    several   times  burnt 
down  and  rebuilt,  and  was  totally  de- 
stroyed by  a  fire  which  took  place  on  the 
17th  July,   1863.    A  separate  building  in 
the  enclosure  which  had  been  the  resid- 
ence of  the  heir-apparent  to  the  Shogun- 
ate,  was  appropriated  for  the  Emperor's 
use  after  the  removal  of  H.  M.  to  Tokyd 
in  1868.    But  this  too,  was  burnt  down  on 
the  night  of  the  5th  May,  1873.    From  that 
time  forward  the  Emperor  occupied  the 
Palace  at  Aoyama,  now  inhabited  by  the 
Crown  Prince,  until  the  construction  on 
the  old  site  in  1889  of  a  new  Palace,  semi- 
Japanese  and  semi-foreign  iu  style.  Yedo 
has  been  repeatedly  visited  by  destructive 
fires.    In  1601  the  whole  city  was  laid  in 
ashes.    At  that  time  all  the  houses  were 
thatched  with  grass,  the  use  of  tiles  not 
having  been  allowed  to  the  citizens  titl 
the  middle  of  the  17th  century.    Great 
fires    occuired    in    1657    and    again    in 
166B.    The  greatest  conflagration  in  more 
modem  times    took  place   in   1845.     In 
1603  a  large  part  of  the  hill  now  called 
Buruga  Dai  was  cut  away,  and  the  soil 
used  to  fill  up  four  square  miles  of  shallow 
inlets  on  the  S.  side  of  the  town.    The 
same  year  witnessed  the  contruction  of 
the  great  bridge,  Nihon-bashi,  from  which 
distances  have  since  been  measured  along 
the  chief  roads  of  the  Empire.    In  1642,  a 
regulation  was  made  whereby  the  Daimy  os 
were  obliged  to  reside  alternately  in  Yedo 
and  on  their  domains  for  certain  fixed 
periods.    A  map  dated  1632  shows  that^the 
greater  part  of  what  now  forms  the  Kyoba- 
shi   district,  including  Tsukiji,  was  re- 
claimed from  the  sea  subsequent  to  that 
date.  Up  to  about  the  year  1650,  the  towns- 
people depended  for  their  water  supply  on 
the  stream  from  Kanda-yama  and  the  lake 
of  Tame-ike ;  but  shortly  afterwards  an 
aqu^uct  was  constructed  on  the  N.  side  to 
bring  water  from  the  I-no-kashira,  Zem- 


pukuji,  and  MyoshO-ji  lakes,  as  well  as 
from  the  Tamagawa  into  the  city.  In  1653, 
the  Tamagawa  aqueduct,  which  enters  the 
city  by  way  of  Yotsuya,  was  constructed, 
its  length  being  about  27  miles. 

In  1660,  the  first  theatre  was  built  in 
Kobiki-cho  by  one  Morita  Kan-ya,  whose 
name  has  been  borne  by  successive  gene- 
rations of  impreKtri.  The  history  of 
the  city  for  the  most  part  consists 
of  a  succession  of  earthquakes,  fires,  ty- 
phoons, epidemics,  fioods,  and  droughts. 
The  year  1703  was  marked  by  a  great 
earthquake;  it  is  said  that  on  this 
occasion  the  deaths  in  Yedo  alone  were 
37,000.  An  epidemic  which  raged  in  1773 
is  stated  to  have  carried  off  190,000  per- 
sons, chiefly  of  the  lower  classes.  On  the 
11th  November,  1855,  the  last  great  earth- 
quake occurred,  when  the  loss  of  life  was 
computed  at  100,000  persons.  But  recent 
investigations  have  shown  that  this  was 
a  gross  exaggeration. 

On  the  13th  September,  1868,  the  desig- 
nation of  the  city  was  changed  to  Tokyd 
or  Tokei,  either  being  a  correct  way  of 
pronouncing  the  two  Chinese  characters 

JSC^  which  are  used  in  writing  the  name, 
the  signification  of  which  is  'Eastern 
Capital,'    given  in   contradistinction    to 

SaikyS,  Q^,   or  'Western  Capital,'  ap- 

filied  at  the  same  time  to  Kydto. 
n  November  of  the  same  year  the 
Mikado  visited  Tokyo  for  the  first  time, 
and  it  became  the  recognised  seat  of 
Grovemment  on  the  26th  March,  1869.  A 
great  change  has  since  taken  place  in  the 
outward  appearance  of  the  city.  Most  of 
the  yathiki,  or  mansions  of  the  territorial 
nobility,  have  been  pulled  down  to  make 
room  for  new  buildings  better  adapted  to 
modem  needs.  At  the  same  time,  the 
disappearance  of  the  two-sworded  men,  the 
supersession  of  the  palanquin  (kaqo)  by 
the  jinrikisha,  the  very  general  adoption 
of  foreign  dress,  and  the  European  style 
of  dressing  the  hair  which  is  now  almost 
universal  among  the  men,  have  robbed 
the  streets  of  the  picturesqueness  for- 
merly so  attractive  to  the  foreign  visitor. 
The  construction  dl  buildings  in  European 
style  dates  from  about  1872.  TSkyo  was 
thrown  open  to  foreign  travel  in  1869, 
but  not  to  foreign  residence.  Tsukiji,  the 
foreign  concession  (Kyoryii-chi)^  is  still 
the  only  quarter  in  which  foreigners  can 
hold  land. 

The  city  is  divided  for  administrative 
purposes  into  fifteen  districts  (Ku)^  viz : — 

I,  Koji-machi.  2,  Kanda,  3,  Nihon-bashi,  4, 
Kyo-bashi.  5,  SMba.  6,  Azabu.  7,  Akasaka. 
8,  Yotsuya.  9,  Ushigome.  10,  Koishikawa. 

II,  Hongo,  12,  Shitaya.  18,  Asakusa.  14, 
Honjo.  15,  Fukagawa.  The  principal 
suburbs  are  Shinagawa  S.,  on  the  Tokai- 
d6 ;  Naito  Shinjiku  W,,  on  the  Chichibu 
road ;  Itabashi  N.W.,  on  the  Nakasendd ; 
and  Senji  N.  E.,  on  the  Osha  Kaid9. 
Toky5  is  popularly  estimated  to  cover 
an  area  or  four  ri  in  every  direction,  in 


63 


Route  4. — Tokyo. 


other  worda,  a  hundred  square  miles. 
The  population  is  officially  stated  to  be, 
in  round  numbers,  1,889,000,  but  this 
includes  the  whole  metropolitan  district 
(lohyo  FuJ.  The  city  proper  has  only 
90(»,f>00.  TokyS  was  connected  by  railway 
with  Yokohama  in  the  autumn  of  1872 ; 
horse  tramways  were  laid  along  the  main 
thoroughfares  in  1882;  the  first  electric 
lighting  company  was  farmed  in  18S6, 
and  a  telephone  exchange  was  opened  in 
liiiiO.  In  the  same  year,  a  short  electrical 
railway  was  laid  within  the  grounds  of 
the  Ueno  Park.  Three  great  Industrial 
Exhibitions  have  been  held  in  Tokyo,  the 
first  in  1877,  and  the  last  in  189«).  The 
buildings  of  the  Imperial  Diet,  inaugurated 
in  November,  1890,  were  burnt  down  two 
months  later.  A  plan  of  city  improvement 
has  recently  been  adopted,in  consequence 
of  which  the  narrower  streets  of  any  dis- 
trict burnt  down  are  widened,  and  better 
sanitary  arrangements  introduced. 

Owing  to  the  shape  and  the  vast 
extent  of  the  city,  it  is  impossible 
to^combine  all  the  chief  sights  in  a 
single  round.  The  best  plan  is  to 
take  them  in  groups,  according  to 
the  direction  in  which  they  lie. 
The  following  description  proceeds 
on  this  principle. 

1. — The  Kwankoba.  Shiba  Park. 
Temples  and  Tombs  op  the  Sho- 
GUNs.   Zempukuji.    The  Fortt- 

8EVEN  BONINS.     NyORAIJI.      AtA- 
GO-YAMA. 

From  the  Shimbashi  Railway 
terminus,  a  long  narrow  street, 
called  Hikage-cho  at  the  beginning 
and  8himmei-mae  at  the  end,  leadS 
to  Shiba  Park,  and  is  worth  stroll- 
ing along  for  the  sake  of  the  shops. 

Passing  through  the  Daimon  or 
*  Great  Gate',  we  turn  through  the 
park  r.  to  the  Kwankoba,  the  best 
bazaar  in  Tokyo,  where  all  prices 
are  fixed,  and  every  sort  of  article 
used  in  the  daily  life  of  the  Japanese 
people  may  be  obtained. 

Shiba  Park  {Shiba  E:oenehi)  formed, 
till  1877,  the  gfrounds  of  the  great  Bud- 
dhist temple  of  Zo/6ji,  the  head-quarters 
in  this  city  of  the  Jodo  sect.  Here  are  still 
presei-ved  the  Mortuary  Temples  (Go  Itei- 
va)  of  several  of  the  Tokugawa  Shoguns, 
leyasu,  the  founder  of  that  dj'uasty  and 
of  Yedo,  having  taken  ZojSji  under  his 
special  protection,  and  chosen  it  as  the 


temple  where  the  funeral  tablets  {ihai)  of 
himself  and  his  descendants  should  be 
preserved.  The  monastery  had  been 
originally  founded  in  1398,  but  was  re- 
moved in  1696  to  the  present  site.  The 
partial  transfer  of  the  temple  to  the  Shin- 
tOists,  in  1873,  naturally  led  to  friction 
between  them  and  the  Buddhists,  the 
gravest  consequence  of  which  was  the 
destruction  by  fire  of  the  magnificent 
main  buildingr  on  the  1st  January,  1874.  It 
has  lately  been  replaced  by  a  new  build- 
ing, smaller  and  much  less  beautiful. 
Only  the  large  gate  (Mmmon)  remains  just 
as  it  was  built  in  1623.  This  temple, 
which  is  used  for  popular  worship,  must 
not  be  mistaken  for  one  of  the  Mortuary 
Temples. 

The  following  is  a  list  of  the  Tokugawa 
Shoguns.  Those  whose  names  are  marked 
with  an  asterisk  are  buried  at  Ueno,  at 
the  opposite  end  of  Tokyo ;  those  whose 
names  have  a  dagger  prefixed  lie  at 
NikkO,  100  miles  to  the  N.  of  Tokyo,  and 
the  others  at  Shiba. 


PEBSOn-AL  POSTHUMOUS  DIED 

NAME.  TITLE.  A.O. 


1. 

2. 

8. 

4. 

5. 

6. 

7. 

8. 

9. 
10. 
11. 
12. 
13. 
14. 
15. 


tieyasu    TOshogll   1616 

Hidetada   Taitokuin 1682 

tiemitsu  Taiyain 1661 

•letsuna  (Jen-ynin  1680 

♦Tsunayoshi  ...Joken-in   1709 

lenobu Bunshoin 1713 

letsugu  Yashoin 1761 

•Yoshimune    ...Yatokuin 1761 

leshige    Junshin-in  1761 

♦leharu Shimmeiin  1786 

♦lenari  Bunkyoin 1841 

leyoshi   Sbintokuin  1853 

•lesada Onkyoin    1858 

lemochi  Shotokuin    1866 

Yoshinobu  (usually  called  Keiki), 
still  living  at  Shizuoka  in  Suruga. 

.  The  Shiba  Temples,  which  are 
among  the  chief  marvels  of  Japa- 
nese art,  should,  if  possible,  be 
visited  on  the  forenoon  of  a  fine 
day.  Otherwise  their  situation,  and 
the  black  boarding  which  has  been 
put  up  to  ward  off  the  attacks  of 
the  weather,  will  interfere  with  a 
proper  enjoyment  of  their  minutely 
elaborate  decorations.  They  may 
best  be  taken  in  the  following 
order.  Persons  pressed  for  time 
might  limit  themselves  to  an  in- 
spection of  the  temple  and  tomb 
(Octagonal  Shrine)  of  the  2nd 
Shogun  only  (See  p.  72). 

The  entrance  to  the  Mortuary 
Chapels  of  letsugu  and  leshige, 
the  7th  and  9th  Shoguns,  is 
immediately   opposite  the   Kwan- 


Shibii  Temples. 


69 


koba.  A  highly  ornamented  gate 
called  the  Ni-Ten  Mon,  or  '  Gate 
of  the  Two  Deva  Kings/  leads 
into  a  court  containing  nume- 
rous stone  lanterns  offered  by 
Daimyos  as  a  mark  of  respect  tc> 
the  memory  of  their  deceased  lord 
and  master,  the  Shogunf  At  the 
opposite  end  of  the  court  is  the 
ChoJcu-gahu  Hon,  or  'Gate  of  the 
Imperial  Tablet/  so  called  from  a 
tablet  hung  over  the  lintel,  con- 
taining in  gold  letters  the  post- 
burnous  name  of  the  7th  Shogun 
in  the  fac-simile  of  the  hand- 
writing of  the  Mikado  known  to 
history  as  Naka-no-Mikado-no-In 
(d.  1737).  This  gate  is  remarkable 
for  its  pillars  with  dragons  twisted 
round  them,  originally  gilt  over  a 
coating  of  red  oxide  of  iron.  Pass- 
ing through  this  gate,  we  enter  an 
inner  court  lined  with  bronze 
lanterns,  two  hundred  and  twelve 
in  all,  dating  some  from  A.B. 
1716,  some  from  1761,  also  the 
gift  of  Daimyos,  and  having  r.  a 
belfry  and  1.  a  cistern  for  holy 
water.  Hence  through  a  third 
gate  called  the  0  Kara  Hon,  on  either 
side  of  which  stretches  a  gallery 
with  beautifully  painted  carvings 
of  flowers  and  birds  in  the  panels. 
Observe  the  angel  on  the  ceiling, 
the  work  of  Kano  Bydsetsu.  A 
short  colonnade  of  black  pUlars 
edged  with  gold  leads  to  the  por- 
tico of  the  temple,  where,  among 
other  marvels  of  carving,  are  two 
dragons,  called  '  the  ascending  and 
descending  dragons '  (Nohori-ryu 
and  Kudari-ryu),  serving  as  beams 
to  connect  the  temple  with  two 
pillars  outside. 

Up  to  this  point  the  public  has 
free  admittance.  Those  desirous 
of  seeing  the  interior  of  the  temple, 
together  with  the  tombs,  must 
apply  to  the  custodian,  and  pay 
Mm  on  departing  a  fee  of  20  cents 
per  head.  Boote  must  of  course 
be  removed  before  entering.  These 
observations  hold  good  at  all  the 
other    Mortuary    Temples.     The 


visitor  is  led  directly  into  the 
sanctum  containing  the  altar.  And 
here  be  it  observed  that  each 
of  these  Mortuary  Temples  con- 
sists of  three  parts, — an  outer 
oratory  (haiden),  a  connecting  gal- 
lery ot  corridor  (ai-no-ma) ,  and  an 
inner  sanctum  (honden).  In  each 
of  these  one  finds  oneself  in  a 
blaze  of  gold,  colours,  and  elaborate 
arabesques,  which,  especially  if  the 
day  be  fine,  quite  dazzle  the  eye  by 
their  brilliancy.  In  feudal  times, 
when  the  Shogun  came  to  worship 
the  spirits  of  his  ancestors,  he 
alone  ascended  to  the  sanctum, 
the  greater  Daimyos  ranged  them- 
selves next  to  him  in  the  corridor 
below,  whUe  the  lesser  nobility 
occupied  the  oratory. 

The  altar  of  this  temple  is  separa- 
ted from  the  corridor  by  one  of  those 
bamboo  blinds  bound  with  sUk, 
which,  together  with  a  peculiar 
kind  of  banner,  temper  the  bril- 
liancy of  the  other  decorations. 
The  sanctum  contains  three  double- 
roofed  shrines  of  the  most  gorgeous 
gold  lacquer,  picked  out  with  body- 
colour  below  the  eaves,  and  held 
together  by  costly  and  elaborate 
metal-work.  That  to  the  r.  con- 
tains a  wooden  image  of  the  father 
of  the  6th  Shogun,  that  in  the 
middle  an  image  of  the  7th  Sh5- 
gun,  and  that  to  the  1.  one  of  the 
9th  Shogun,  together  with  the 
funeral  tablets  of  each.  The  images, 
which  are  considered  sacred  be- 
cause presented  by  Mikados,  are 
never  shown.  On  either  side  of 
each  shrine  stand  wooden  statu- 
ettes of  the  8M  Tenno,  who,  accord- 
ing to  the  Buddhist  mythology, 
guard  the  world  against  the  at- 
tacks of  demons.  In  front  are 
Kwannon  and  Benten.  The  wall 
at  the  back  is  gilt,  while  the  altar 
and  two  tables  in  front  are  of 
splendid  red  lacquer.  In  innu- 
merable places  may  be  seen  the 
three-leaved  Asarum  or  Kamo-aoi, 
which  is  the  crest  of  the  Toku- 
gawa  family,  and  the  lotus,  the 


70 


Route  4, — Tokyo. 


Buddhist  emblem  of  purity.  The 
altar  is  protected  at  night  by 
massive  gilt  gates  ornamented 
with  the  family  crest  and  conven- 
tional flowers.  Descending  into 
the  corridor,  and  noticing  a«  we 
pass  the  gorgeous  panelling  of  the 
ceiling,  we  reach  the  oratory, 
where  the  decorations  are  on  a 
similar  scale  of  magnificence.  Ob- 
serve the  conventional  paintings 
of  lions  on  the  wall.  Under  the 
baldachin  sits  on  festival  days 
(12th  and  13th  of  each  month, 
when  visitors  are  not  admitted)  the 
abbot  of  Zojoji,  while  the  priests 
are  ranged  around  at  small 
lacquer  tables.  The  lacquer  boxes 
on  the  latter  contain  scrolls  of 
the  Buddhist  Scriptures.  As  the 
guide  leads  the  way  from  the 
temple  to  the  tombs,  observe 
on  the  eaves  the  carvings  of 
musical  instruments,  lions,  dra- 
gons, etc.  Observe,  too,  the  car- 
vings of  unicorns  (kirin)  on  the 
Oshir-hwi  Hon,  or  *  Dividing  Gate,' 
which  is  now  passed  through. 
Although  the  carving  is  open- 
work, the  dragons  appear  quite 
different  according  to  the  side 
from  which  they  are  viewed. 
Thence  through  a  noble  court 
with  more  bronze  lanterns,  to  a 
stone  staircase  which  leads  up 
to  the  site  of  the  Tombs, — that 
of  the  7th  Shogun  to  the  1.,  that 
of  the  9th  Shogun  to  the  r.  Below 
each  tomb  is  a  highly  decorated 
oratory.  The  tombs  are  of  stone, 
in  the  shape  called  hdto  (treasure 
shrine),  which  somewhat  resembles 
a  pagoda.  They  stand  on  an  octa- 
gonal granite  base,  with  a  stone 
balustrade.  Their  simplicity  con- 
trasts strongly  with  the  lavish 
magnificence  of  all  that  goes  be- 
fore. As  Mitford  says  in  his 
*  Tales  of  Old  Japan/  '  the  sermon 
may  have  been  preached  by  design, 
or  it  may  have  been  by  accident, 
but  the  lesson  is  there.' 

The  pattern  on  the  black  copper 
facing    round  the  wail  enclosing 


the  tomb,  is  intended  to  represent 
the  waves  of  the  sea.  The  body 
is  said  to  be  buried  at  a  depth  of 
20  ft.,  and  to  have  been  coated 
with  vermilion  and  charcoal  pow- 
der to  prevent  decay.  The  tomb 
of  the  9th  Shogun  is  a  replica  of 
that  of  the  7th.  On  leaving  this 
place,  we  pass  the  oratory  of  the 
9th  Shogun,  and  notice  the  exqui- 
site carvings  in  high  relief  of  pea- 
cocks on  the  panels  of  the  gate. 

Leaving  this  temple  by  the  Cho' 
hi-gaku  Jfon,  and  turning  r.  through 
rows  of  stone  lanterns,  we  soon 
reach  r.  another  splendidly  carved 
gate,  which  gives  access  to  the 
temple  and  tombs  of  the  6th,  12th, 
and  14th  Shoguns.  In  arrange- 
ment, the  temple  closely  resembles 
the  one  we  have  just  left;  but 
the  gilt  is  fresher,  the  carvings 
truer  to  nature,  and  the  general 
impression  more  magnificent,  the 
result  perhaps  of  the  interest 
taken  by  the  6th  Shogun  in  the 
preparation  of  his  own  last  resting 
place.  The  flowers  and  birds  in 
the  spaces  between  the  cornice  and 
the  Untel  of  the  oratory  are  per- 
fect, both  in  chiselling  and  in  de- 
licacy of  colour.  The  coffered  ceil- 
ing is  a  masterpiece ;  and  the 
vista  of  the  altar,  as  one  stands 
under  the  baldachin,  reveals  an  in- 
describable glory  of  blended  gold 
and  colours.  The  order  of  the 
shrines  on  the  altar  is,  from  r.  to 
].,  that  of  the  12th,  6th,  and  14th 
Shoguns,  the  shrine  of  the  last 
containing  also  the  funeral  tablet 
of  his  consort. 

From  the  Mortuary  Temple,  a 
flight  of  steps  at  the  back  leads  up 
to  the  tombs  of  these  three  Sho- 
guns and  of  the  consort  of  the 
14th,  who  was  aunt  to  the  pre- 
sent Mikado,  and  after  the  death 
of  her  husband  bore  the  title  of 
Sei-kwan-In-no-Miya.  Her  funeral 
in  1877  was  the  last  performed  in 
these  precincts.  Each  tomb  has  a 
small  oratory  attached.    The  fine 


Shiba  Temples. 


71 


bronze  gate  of  the  enclosure  of  No. 
6,  which  is  the  first  tomb  reached, 
is- said  to  be  the  work  of  Korean 
artificers;  bnt  the  design  was 
probably  furnished  by  a  Japanese 
draughtsman.  The  dragons  in  low 
relief  on  the  r.  and  1.,  both  inside 
and  out,  are  especially  worthy  of 
attention.  Next  to  it  is  the  tomb 
of  the  12th  Shogun,  and  beyond  it 
again  those  of  the  14th  and  hip 
consort.  The  tomb  of  this  princess 
is  of  bronze  and  marked  by  the 
Imperial  crest,  the  sixteen-petalled 
chrysanthemum. 

Quitting  the  grounds  of  this 
Mortuary  Temple  by  a  small  side 
door  to  the  r.,  we  turn  down  1.  to 
the  main  road,  and  enter  the  grounds 
of  the  Monastery  of  Zojoji  by  the 
big  gate.  To  the  r.  is  a  small  shrine 
d^Licated  to  the  'Five  Hundred 
Bakan,'  having  in  front  of  it  a 
stone  with  the  imprint  of  Buddha's 
feet,  which  are  of  phenomenal  size. 
On  the  1.  are  the  temple  offices 
(jimusho).  In  front  is  the  main 
temple  of  Zojoji,  restored  outwardly 
in  the  plainest  style,  but  spacious 
within.  The  large  gilt  image  of 
Amida  enthroned  on  the  altar  is 
from  the  chisel  of  the  famous 
Buddhist  abbot  and  artist  Eshin. 
The  temple  possesses  many  objects 
of  artistic  and  historical  interest, 
but  they  are  not  generally  shown. 

The  little  temple  at  the  back  of 
Zojoji,  in  the  same  brilliant  style 
of  decoration  as  the  Mortuary 
Temples,  is  called  Ookoku-den.  It 
contains  the  Kuro-Honzon  or  '  Black 
Image',  a  statuette  of  Amida  by 
Eshin,  which  is  noteworthy  on 
account  of  the  veneration  in  which 
it  was  held  by  leyasu,  who  used  to 
carry  it  about  with  him  in  his  cam- 
paigns, and  ascribe  his  victories  to 
its  influence.  Admittance  to  the 
Ookohu-den  is  gained  through  the 
priests'  house  to  the  1.  The  Black 
Image,  which  is  not  shown  save  on 
great  occasions^  is  enclosed  in  a 


handsome  gold  reliquary.  Another 
reliquary  contains  smaU  marble 
images  of  the  Sixteen  Eakan. 
Observe  the  curious  plate-shaped 
ornaments  above  the  pillars  in  front 
of  the  altar,  with  the  Buddhist  gods 
Shaka,  Monju,  and  Fugen,  and  at- 
tendant animals  in  high  relief. 
The  bold  paintings  of  hawks 
around  the  walls  recall  leyasu's 
fondness  for  hawking.  The  fine 
bronze  image  of  Shaka  outside 
dates  from  1763. 

Such  unprotected  statues  are  called  in 
Japanese  by  the  rather  irrevent  name  of 
*  Wet  Baints  '  (nure-hotoke).  The  thin 
sticks  inscribed  with  Sanskrit  characters 
which  stand  behind  it,  are  termed  toha 
or^  totoba,  a  corruption  of  the  Sanskrit 
stupa  ('tope'),  originally  a  monument 
erected  over  the  remains  of  a  saint.  The 
notches  in  the  wood  represent  the  ball, 
crescent,  pyramid,  sphere,  and  cube  of  the 
complete  xtujia,  which  are  emblematic  of 
Ether,  Air,  Fire,  Water,  and  Earth.  One 
glance  at  a  $otoba  is  said  to  ensure  the 
forgiveness  of  all  sins. 

Coming  down  from  Gokoku-den, 
and  leaving  the  Zojoji  enclosure 
by  an  opening  to  the  r.,  we  next 
reach  the  Mortuary  Temple  at- 
tached to  the  tombs  of  the  consorts 
of  the  2nd,  6th,  11th,  and  12th 
Shoguns.  Admittance  is  by  the 
priests'  house  to  the  1.  Though 
the  oratory  is  plainer  than  those 
already  described,  the  altar  is  by 
no  means  less  splendid.  Gilded 
gates,  gilded  panelling,  huge  gilded 
pillars, — everything  sparkles  with 
gold,  while  the  shrines  on  the  altar 
are  the  most  magnificent  specimens 
extant  of  a  peculiar  kind  of  lacquer 
adorned  with  metal-work.  Their 
order  is,  from  r.  to  1.*  the  consorts 
of  the  12th,  6th.  2nd,  and  11th 
Shoguns,  while  to  the  extreme  1. 
corner  is  that  of  the  concubine  of 
the  5th.  The  coffered  ceiling, 
decorated  with  the  phoenix  in 
various  colours,  is  specially  fine. 

From  this  temple,  we  pass  into 
the  court  of  that  attached  to  the 
tomb  of  the  2nd  Shogun.  Entrance 
through  the  priests'  house  to  the 
right.      The  sanctum   is  a  grand 


72 


Route  4. — Tokyo. 


example  of  Japanese  religious  ar- 
chitecture. Two  huge  gilded  pillars 
called  daijin-hashiraf  r.  and  1.  of 
the  altar,  support  the  lofty  vaulted 
roof,  curiously  constructed  of  a 
network  of  beams.  The  upper  part 
of  the  walls  is  decorated  with  large 
carved  medallions  of  birds  in  high 
relief,  richly  painted  and  gilt.  The 
shrine  is  of  fine  gold  lacquer,  about 
250  years  old,  and  the  tables  in 
front  deserve  inspection.  The 
bronze  incense-burner  in  the  form 
of  a  lion  dates  from  1635.  leyasu's 
war-drum  rests  in  a  large  orna- 
mental stand.  The  coffers  in  the 
ceilings  are  filled  with  fret-work 
«over  lacquer. 

A  short  and  pretty  walk  through 
the  wood  at  the  back  leads  to  the 
Hakkaku-dd,  or  Octagonal  Hall,  con- 
taining the  tomb  of  the  2nd  Sho- 
gun,  which  is  the  largest  specimen 
of  gold  lacquer  in  the  world  and 
one  of  the  most  magnificent.  Parts 
of  it  are  inlaid  with  enamel  and 
crystals.  The  scenes  on  the  upper 
half  represent  the  *  Eight  Views ' 
of  Siao-Siang  in  China  and  of  Lake 
Biwa  in  Japan,  while  the  lower 
half  is  adorned  with  the  lion  and 
peony,  the  king  of  beasts  and  the 
king  of  flowers.  The  base  is  of  stone 
shaped  like  a  lotus-flower.  The 
shrine  contains  only  an  effigy  of 
the  Shogun  and  his  funeral  tablet, 
the  actual  body  being  beneath  the 
pavement.  The  interior  walls  of 
the  hall  are  of  lacquer  gilded  over. 
Eight  pillars  covered  with  gilt 
copper  plates  support  the  roof. 

Outside  this  building  are  two 
curiously  carved  stones  djEbting  from 
1644.  The  subject  of  one  is  Shaka's 
Entry  into  NirvAna,  and  of  the 
other  the  Five-and-twenty  Bosatsu 
coming  with  Amida  to  welcome 
the  departed  soul.  The  oratory  in 
front  of  the  'Octagonal  Shrine* 
contains  nothing  worthy  of  notice. 

DescendingagaintotheMortuary 
Temple,  and  passing  through  its 
two  gates,  the  visitor  turns  sharp 


to  the  r.  through  a  third  gate,  and 
follows  a  stone  walk  lined  with 
cherry-trees  to  a  torii,  standing 
in  front  of  the  temple  of  AnkokU' 
den.  Here,  on  the  17th  of  every 
month,  a  popular  festival  is  held  in 
honour  of  leyasu,  who  is  worshipped 
as  a  Shinto  deity  under  the  name 
of  Toshogu.  Constructed  when 
Buddhism  was  dominant,  this  tem- 
ple is  architecturally  as  highly 
ornamented  as  the  rest,  the  pre- 
sent influence  of  the  Shinto  cult 
being  indicated  only  by  the  paper 
symbols  (gohei)  in  the  oratory, 
which  also  contains  a  large  bronze 
mirror  and  two  gilt  amor-inu.  The 
sanctum  (admittance  through  the 
shamusho  or  temple  office  to  the  r.) 
stands  behind,  in  a  separate  en- 
closure. The  coffered  ceiling  is 
very  good,  as  are  the  hawks  and 
birds  of  paradise  on  a  gold  ground 
in  the  panels  round  the  interior. 
Specially  excellent  is  a  painting 
by  Kano  Hogen  at  the  back  of  the 
altar,  representing  Shaka  attended 
by  Monju  and  Fugen.  The  shrine 
is  about  4  ft.  high,  with  an 
elaborate  cornice  of  three  rows  of 
brackets ; .  and  its  walls  are  of 
splendid  gold  lacquer  with  raised 
designs.  In  front,  on  the  door- 
panels,  are  eight  small  landscapes, 
in  which  a  dragon  is  seen  descend- 
ing through  the  clouds  on  either 
hand.  At  the  sides  are  boldly 
designed  groups  of  the  pine  and 
bamboo.  Inside  is  a  life-like 
wooden  effigy  of  leyasu,  which  can 
be  seen  only  on  the  17th  day  of  the 
month. 

The  big  wooden  building  in 
European  style,  nearly  opposite  the 
entrance  to  Ankoku-den,  is  called 
Tayoi-sha,  and  is  used  for  holding 
meetings  of  various  kinds. 

A  visit  to  Shiba  may  be  termi- 
nated by  walking  up  Maruyama, 
the  little  hiU  at  the  back,  which 
commands  a  pretty  view  of  the 
bay.  Close  to  the  pagoda,  which  is 
not  open  to  the  public,  stands  a 
monument  erected  in  1890  to  the 


Forty-seven  Ronins.     Akasukci  atid  Azahu. 


78 


xnemory  of  Ino  Chukei,  the  father 
of  Japanese  cartography,  who  flour- 
ished in  the  18th  century.  Thence 
one  descends  to  the  little  Tem'pU 
of  Benten,  picturesquely  situated 
on  an  islet  in  a  lake  overgrown 
-with  lotuses.  Further  back  in  the 
"wood    stands    the   Koyo-kwan,    or 

*  Maple  Club/  where  fine  entertain- 
ments in  native  style  are  given. 

Shiba  is  specially  lovely  in  early 
April,  when  the  cherry-trees  are  in 
flower. 

About  1  m.  from  the  Shiba  tem- 
ples in  the  direction  of  Shinagawa, 
stands  the  Buddhist  temple  of 
Sengakujiy  where  the  Forty-seven 
^Ronins  (Shi-ju-shichi  Ki)  lie  buried. 
(For    their    dramatic    story,    see 

•  Things  Japanese,'  p.  126.  A  more 
detailed  account  is  given  in  Mit- 
ford's'Talesof  OldJapan').  Thewell 
(Kvbi-arai  ido),  where  the  Eonins 
washed  the  head  of  the  foe  on  whom 
they;  had  taken  vengeance,  still 
exists  by  the  side  of  the  path  lead- 
ing to  the  tombs,  which  are  ranged 
round  the  sides  of  a  small  squafre 
court.  That  in  the  further  corner 
is  the  grave  of  Oishi  Euranosuke, 
the  leader  of  the  faithful  band; 
and  the  monument  next  to  his,  on 
the  other  side  of  the  stone  fence, 
marks  the  grave  of  the  lord  for 
whose  sake  he  and  his  comrades 
sacrificed  their  lives.  The  popular 
reverence  for  these  heroes  is  attest- 
ed by  the  incense_  perpetually  kept 
burning  before  Oishi's  grave,  and 
by  the  visiting  cards  left  there  at 
New- Year  time.  Painted  statuettes 
of  the  *  Forty-seven '  are  exhibited 
in  a  building  below. 

A  little  nearer  Shinagawa  stands 
Nyoraiji,  a  Buddhist  temple  dedi- 
cated to  the  'Five  Buddhas  of 
Wisdom,*  whose  gigantic  images, 
carved  in  A.D.  1635,  are  here  en- 
shrined. 

On  the  way  back,  one  may  obtain 
a  good  view  by  ascending  Kiri- 
shvmor-yama,  a  wooden  structure  100 
ft.  high,  close  to  the  railway  line, 


erected  in  ]  890  as  a  model  of  the 
celebrated  mountain  of  the  same 
name  in  Kyushu.  Or  else  one  may 
go  up  Atago-yama,  a  natural  hill 
a  little  to  the  N.  of  Shiba  Park, 
named  after  the  higher  Mount 
Atago  at  Kyoto.  Atago-yama, 
like  many  other  such  places  in 
Japan,  has  two  flights  of  steps  lead- 
ing up  it,  one  of  which,  called  *  the 
men's  staircase,'  is  straight  and 
steep,  while  the  other,  or  *  women's 
staircase,'  is  circuitous  but  less 
fatiguing.  A  tower  has  recently 
been  erected  on  Atago-yama,  which 
visitors  should  pay  a  trifling  fee  to 
ascend.  The  view_includes  Fuji, 
the  Hakone  range,  Oyama,  Mitake, 
Mount  Tsukuba,  the  provinces 
beyond  Tokyo  Bay  with  Kano-zan 
and  Nokogiri-yama,  and  of  course 
Tokyo  itself. 

2. — Akasasa  and  Azabu. 

AkaAaka   and   Azabu   are   the 

highest  and  healthiest  parts  of 
Tokyo,  but  contain  little  of  interest 
to  the  tourist.  In  a  part  of  Akasaka 
called  Aoyama,  is  situated  the 
palace  occupied  for  many  years  by 
the  Mikado  while  the  present 
palace  was  building,  and  now 
by  the  Empress  Dowager  and 
the  Crown  Prince.  It  is  not  open 
to  the  public;  but  the  4Ute  of 
Tokyo  society  is  invited  there  once 
yearly  in  November,  to  witness 
what  is  perhaps  the  most  wonderful 
show  of  chrysanthemums  in  the 
world.  Closely  adjoining  it,  is  an 
immense  parade  ground,  where  the 
great  annual  review  on  the  Mi- 
kado's birthday  (3r4  November)  is 
held.  A  little  further  to  the  S.  is 
the  Aoyama  Cemetery,  part  of 
which  has  been  set  apart  for  the 
interment  of  foreigners. 

On  the  borders  of  Akasaka  and 
Azabu  stands  the  Shinto  temple  of 
Hikawa,  now  much  neglected,  but 
remarkable  for  the  antiquity  of  its 
first  foundation  (7th  century). 
Opposite  the  entrance  is  the  house 


74 


Route  4, — Tokyo, 


inhabited  by  Sir  Edwin  Arnold 
in  1689-90,  while  composing  his 
beautiful  poem,  *The  Light  of  the 
World/ 

ZempuJcuji,  a  temple  of  the  Monto 
sect,  dates  from  A.D.  1232,  and  is 
somewhat  striking.  The  main  hall 
of  the  temple  is  ^  ft.  square.  The 
pillars  supporting  the  roof  are 
massive  and  unadorned,  save  by  a 
few  touches  of  white  paint  on  the 
capitals,  in  accordance  with  the 
usual  practice  of  the  sect.  The 
screen  dividing  the  nave  from  the 
chancel,  as  also  the  altar  itself,  are 
good  specimens  of  florid  ornamen- 
tation in  gold  and  colours.  The 
temple  re.ics  are  exhibited  from 
the  1  st  to  6th  November.  In  the 
court  yard  stands  an  enormous  Icho 
tree  known  as  the  *  Staff  Icho.' 

Local  tradition  says  that  when  Shinran 
SliOfiin,  the  founder  of  the  Monto  sect, 
was  about  to  depart  for  Kyoto  and  bade 
adieu  to  RyOkai,  the  apostle  of  the  sect 
in  Eastern  Japan,  he  stuck  his  staff  upside 
down  into  the  ground,  saying,  '  Like  this 
staff  shall  be  the  strenjc^h  of  the  faith  and 
the  salvation  of  the  people,'  upon  which 
the  staff  immediately  began  to  take  root 
and  sprout  upwards. 

3. — Chief  Buildings  in  Koji- 
MACHi.  The  Diet.  Sanno. 
Okubo's  Monument.     Shokon- 

SHA. 

Leaving  Shimbashi  station  and 
turning  1.  along  the  moat,  the 
buildings  of  the  Imperial  Diet,  if  re- 
constructed as  proposed  on  the  site 
where  the  original  edifice  was  burnt 
down  in  1891,  will  be  seen  beyond 
the  embankment  on  the  other  side. 
The  fine  brick  buildings  soon  passed 
r.  were  completed  in  1877  for  the 
College  of  Engineering,  the  earliest 
scientific  academy  established  in 
Japan,  and  presided  over  by  British 
professors.  Since  the  amalgama- 
tion of  this  College  with  the  Im- 
perial University  in  1886,  the 
buildings  have  been  used  for 
various  purposes,  a  portion  of  them 
being  temporarily  appropriated  to 


the  meetings  of  the  Lower  House 
of  the  Diet. 

Turning  along  the  moat  r.,  we 
come  to  a  stretch  of  fiat  ground, 
which  was  till  recently  a  swamp 
called  Tame-ike.  On  the  hill  to 
the  r.  is  the  mansion  of  Marquis 
Nabeshima,  formerly  Prince  of 
Hizen  and  now  Grand  Master  of 
Ceremonies  at  the  Imperial  Court. 
In  front  is  the  prettily  wooded 
eminence  on  which  stands  the  Shin- 
to Temple  of  Sanno,  officially  styled 
Hie  no  Jinja.  Dating  in  its  present 
form  from  1654,  it  was  adopted  by 
the  Shoguns  of  the  Tokugawa 
dynasty  as  their  tutelary  shrine. 
The  situation  is  pretty,  and  the 
place  is  seen  to  advantage  in 
spring,  when  the  cherry-trees  are 
in  flower;  but  all  the  buildings 
except  the  main  temple  are  falling 
into  decay.  In  each  of  the  inner 
compartments  of  the  large  gate 
stands  an  image  of  a  monkey  orna- 
mented with  a  bib,  that  animal 
being  regarded  as  the  servant  of 
the  divinity  of  Hie,  for  which  reason 
monkeys  also  figure  on  the  altar. 

This  neighbourhood,  of  which 
the  chief  part  is  called  Na^ata-cho, 
is  one  of  the  most  fashionable  in 
Tokyo.  Here  stand  the  palaces  of 
Princes  Kita  Shirakawa  and  Ari- 
sugawa,  and  the  residences  of 
many  high  officials  and  foreign 
diplomats.  Hence  in  local  par- 
lance, it  is  sometimes  nicknamed 
Daimnfd  Koji,  or  the  *  Daimyo 
Quarter.'  Below  Prince  Kita  Shi- 
rakawa's  Palape  is  the  Kioi-cho 
Eoenchi,  a  small  public  garden 
containing  a  huge  monolith  com- 
memorative of  Okubo  Toshimichi, 
one  of  the  founders  of  the  new 
order  of  things  in  Japan,  who  was 
assassinated  near  this  spot  on  the 
14th  May,  1878,  as  he  was  driving 
from  his  residence  to  the  Imperial 
Palace.  On  the  top  of  the  hill  of 
Eudan,  a  short  way  beyond  the 
British  Legation,  stands  the 
modern  Shinto  temple  of  Yasukuni, 
better  known  as  the 


Shokonsha,     Imperial  PaUice. 


75 


Shokonsha^  or  Spirit-Invoking 
Shrine. 

This  temple  was  erected  in  1869  for  the 
worship  of  the  spirits  of  those  who  had 
fallen  fighting  for  the  Mikado's  cause  in 
the  revolutionary  war  of  the  previous 
year.  Services  are  also  held  in  honour  of 
thoee  who  fell  in  the  Saga  troubles  of  1873, 
and  in  the  Satsuma  rebellion  of  1877. 

The  Shokonsha  is  huilt  in  ac- 
cordance with  the  severest  canons 
of  pure  Shinto  architecture,  and  is 
completely  empty  except  for  a 
mirror,  a  European  drugget,  and 
a  dozen  cheap  wooden  chairs  for 
the  use  of  the  officials  who  come  to 
assist  at  the  memorial  services 
which  are  held  from  time  to  time, 
the  principal  ones  being  on  the 
6th  May  and  6th  November.  These 
occasions  are  enlivened  by  horse- 
races, wrestling,  and  other  amuse- 
ments which  draw  a  large  concourse 
of  spectators.  The  enormous 
bronze  torii  was  set  up  in-December, 
1887. 

The  grounds  behind  the  temple 
have  been  tastefully  laid  out,  and 
look  their  best  in  early  spring 
when  the  plum-trees  are  in  blossom. 

The  brick  building  to  the  r.  of 
the  temple  is  the  Yushu-kwan,  a 
Museum  of  Arms,  which  is  open 
on  Sundays,  Wednesdays,  and 
Saturdays,  from  8  a.m.  till  6  p.m. 
in  summer,  and  from  9  to  3  in 
winter.  It  is  well-worth  a  visit,  for 
the  sake  of  the  magnificent  speci- 
mens of  old  Japanese  swords  and 
scabbards  which  it  contains,  as  well 
as  armour,  old  Korean  bronze  can- 
non, etc.  The  granite  lanterns 
lining  the  avenue  which  runs  down 
the  centre  of  the  race-course,  were 
presented  by  the  nobility  in  1878. 

Leaving  the  grounds  of  the  Sho- 
konsha, we  come  to  an  ancient 
stone  beacon,  which  formerly  light- 
ed junks  on  their  way  up  Tokyo  Bay. 
Opposite  to  it,  stands  a  monument 
in  the  shape  of  a  bayonet,  erected 
in  1880  by  the  soldiers  of  the  Im- 
perial Guard,  in  memory  of  their 
comrades  who  has  fallen  fighting 
on  the  loyalist  side  in  the  Satsuma 


rebellion.  From  this  point  a  fine 
view  is  obtained  of  the  city  in  the 
direction  of  Ueno.  The  prominent 
edifice  on  the  bluff  opposite  {8v/ru- 
ga-dai)  is  the  Eussian  Cathedral, 
opened  in  1891. 

4. — EojiMACHi  (Continttbd).    In- 
ner Moat.    The  Imperial 
Palace. 

Another  and  more  direct    way 

from  Shimbashi  to  the  Shokonsha 

at  Kudan,  is  by  crossing  the  first 

bridge  (Dobashi)   over  the   moat, 

passing  the  Bokumei-kwan,  a  large 

edifice  used  for  social  purposes,  on 

the  r.,  and  going  straight  on  as  fax 

as  the  site  of   the  Houses  of  the 

Diet,   at  the  further   end  of  the 

Hibiya  parade  ground.    Here  the 

road  turns  r.,  with   the  Russian 

Legation,  the  Foreign  Office  (Gwair 

mus?id),  and  military  barracks  on 

the    1.      Skirting    the    moat,    the 

large  building  seen  in  front  is  the 

Head-Quarters  of  the  General  Staff 

Department. 

Near  here,  on  the  14th  March,  1861,  li- 
Kamon-no  Kami,  Regent  during  the  in- 
terval preceding  the  election  of  a  new 
Shogun,  and  a  man  of  rare  sagacity  and 
favourable  to  foreign  intercourse,  was 
asBassinated  in  broad  daylight  by  emis- 
saries of  the  Prince  of  Mito,  who  wag 
desirous  of  seating  his  own  son  on  the 
throne.  To  elucidate  this  incident,  it 
should  be  mentioned  that  there  were  three 
branches  of  the  Tokugawa  family,  viz. 
Kishfli,  Mito,  and  Owari,  from  whom  the 
Shoguns  were  elected  by  a  family  council, 
and  that  the  election  had  fallen  upon  a 
young  prince  of  Kisha,  thus  baulking 
Mito's  plans. 

The  moat  here,  with  its  green 
banks  and  spreading  trees  and  the 
myriads  of  wild-fowl  fluttering  in 
the  water,  affords  one  of  the  pret- 
tiest sights  in  Tokyo.  The  vast 
enclosure  of  the  Imperial  Palace 
lies  beyond  the  moat. 

The  Impeinal  Palace.  Though 
the  new  palace  inhabited  by  His  Ma- 
jesty the  Mikado  since  1889  is  not 
accessible  to  the  public,  the  follow- 
ing description,  abridged  from  the 
*  Japan  Mail,'  may  be  of  interest : — 


76 


Route  4, — Tokyo . 


Entering  through    long  corridors 
isolated  by  massive  iron  doors^  we 
find  ourselves  in  the   smaller    of 
two  reception  rooms,  and    at  the 
commencement  of   what  seems  an 
endless  vista  of  crystal  chambers. 
This  effect  is  due  to  the  fact  that 
the    8^1071,    or     sliding-doors,    are 
of  plate-glass.     The  workmanship 
and  decoration  of  these  chambers 
are     truly     exquisite.       It     need 
scarcely  be   said   that  the  woods 
employed    are     of     the     choicest 
description,  and  that  the  carpen- 
ters and  joiners  have  done  their 
part  with  such  skill  as  only  Japa- 
nese   artisans     seem    to    possess. 
Every   ceiling  is   a  work  of    art, 
being  divided  by  lacquer  ribs  of  a 
deep  brown  colour  into  numerous 
panels,  each  of  which  contains  a 
beautifully  executed  decorative  de- 
sign, painted,  embroidered,  or  em- 
bossed.   The  walls  are  covered  in 
most  cases  with  rich  but  chaste 
brocades,  except  in  the  corridors, 
where  a  thick,  embossed  paper  of 
charming  tint  and  pattern  shows 
what  skill  has  been  developed  in 
this  class  of  manufacture  at  the 
Imperial  Printing  Bureau.    Amid 
this  luxury  of  well-assorted    but 
warm  tints   remain    the    massive 
square  posts — ^beautiful  enough  in 
themselves,  but    scarcely    harmo- 
nising   with    their    environment, 
and  introducing   an    incongruous 
element  into  the  buUding.     The 
true  type  of  what  may  be  called 
Imperial  esthetic  decoration    was 
essentially  marked  by  refined  sim- 
plicity —  white     wooden    joinery, 
with  pale  neutral  tints  and  mellow 
gilding.     The  splendour  of  richly 
painted  ceilings,  lacquered  lattice- 
work, and  brocaded  walls  was  re- 
served for  Buddhist  temples  and 
mausolea.      Thus    we    have    the 
Shinto,  or  true  Imperial  style,  pre- 
senting itself  in  the  severely  colour- 
less piJIars,  while  the  resources  of 
religious  architecture  have    been 
drawn  upon  for  the  rest  of  the 
decoration.      In  one   part  of  the 


building  the  severest  canons  have 
been  strictly,  followed :  the  six 
Imperial  Studios,  three  below  stairs 
and  three  above,  are  precisely  such 
chaste  and  pure  apartments  as  a 
scholar  would  choose  for  the  abode 
of  learning.  By  way  of  an  example 
in  the  other  direction,  we  may  t^e 
the  Banqueting  Hall,  a  room  of 
magnificent  size  (540  sq.  yds.)  and 
noble  proportions,  its  immense 
expanse  of  ceiling  glowing  with 
gold  and  colours,  and  its  broad 
walls  hung  with  the  costliest  silks. 
The  Throne  Chamber  is  scarcely 
less  striking,  though  of  smaller 
dimensions  and  more  subdued  de- 
coration. Every  detail  of  the  work 
shows  infinite  painstaking,  and  is 
redolent  of  artistic  instinct.  The 
furniture  of  the  Palace  was  im- 
ported from  Germany.  Externally 
the  principal  buildings  are  all  in 
pure  Japanese  style.  The  appro- 
priation for  the  Palace  was 
$3,000,000;  but  to  this  amount 
must  be  added  considerable  sums 
voluntarily  offered  by  wealthy 
Japanese,  as  well  as  valuable  con-  . 
tributions  of  materials. 

The  unpretentious  brick  and 
plaster  structure  to  be  seen  from 
the  E.  side,  rising  above  the  moat 
in  the  Palace  enclosure,  contains 
the  offices  of  the  Imperial  House* 
hold  Department  (Kunaisho). 

Not  far  from  the  Palace,  in  an 
Easterly  direction,  is  the  Insatsu 
Kyoku  or  Government  Printing 
Office,  a  vast  and  well-organised 
establishment,  to  the  inspection  of 
which  a  day  may  be  profitably 
devoted,  as  its  scope  includes 
much  besides  mere  printing.  Here, 
among  other  things,  is  manufac- 
tured the  paper  currency  of  the 
country.'  The  Ministries  of  Fi- 
nance, of  Education,  and  of  the 
Interior,  together  with  various 
other  Government  Offices,  are  in. 
the  same  neighbourhood. 


Seido,     Kanda  Myojvn.      University. 


11 


6. GiNZA.       NiHON-BASHI.       CURIO 

Street.  Sbido.  Kanda  Mtojin. 
Impebial  Univebsitt.  Dango 
zaila.  0-gwannon.  botanical 
Garden.  Muryo-in.  Kirishitan- 
ZASA.  Denzu-in.  Koibhikawa. 
Arsenal  a  in)  Garden.  Gok:oku- 
Ji.    Imperial  Cemetery. 

The  most  important  thorough- 
fare in  Tokyo,  which  none  should 
fail  to  see^  leads  from  the  Shim- 
bashi  terminus  to  Megane-bashi. 
The  portion  of  it  nearest  to  the 
station  is  called  the  CHnza,  and 
has  many  shops  in  European  style. 
Proceeding  along  it,  the  traveller 
crosses  the  Kyobashi  and  Nihon- 
bashi  bridges,  from  the  latter  of 
which  all  distances  in  Eastern 
Japan  are  calculated.  The  new 
General  Post-Office  stands  close 
by.  Parallel  to  the  portion  of  the 
main  street  between  these  bridges 
is  Naka-^idri,  a  street  highly  attrac- 
tive on  account  of  its  second-hand 
curio  shops.  Nihon-hashi  has  also 
given  its  name  to  the  surrounding 
large  and  busy  district,  which  is 
filled  with  shops,  market-places, 
and  godowns.  The  great  fish- 
market  is  a  notable  sight  in  the 
early  hours  of  the  morning. 

Megane-Bashi,  or  '  Spectacles 
Bridge,'  is  so  called  from  its  circu- 
lar arches.  The  portion  of  the 
canal  to  the  1.  is  popularly  known 
as  '  Sendai's  "Weeping  Excavation ' 
(NaJd-bori). 

Local  history  says  that  Tsunamune, 
DaimyO  of  Sendai,  was  in  the  habit  of 
squandering  large  sums  at  the  YoshL- 
wara,  and  that  the  8hogun,  in  order  to 
turn  him  from  his  rakish  ways,  and  also 
to  put  snch  extravagance  oat  of  his 
power,  imposed  on  him  the  task  of  deep- 
ening and  widening  this  part  of  the  moat 
— a  work  which  he  Ib  said  to  have  per- 
formed with  much  lamentation  over  the 
drain  on  his  purse. 

A  little  way  on  is  Seido>  the 
gage's  Hall  or  Temple  of  Con- 
facius,  now  used  as  an  Education- 
al    Museum.      It    is    pleasantly 


situated  on  rising  grourfd  in  the 
midst  of  a  grove  of  trees,  among 
which  the  fragrant  mokusei  is  most 
conspicuous.  The  buildings,  which 
date  from  1691,  are  fine  specimens 
of  the  Chinese  style  of  architect- 
ure. The  main  hall  facing  the 
entrance  is  supported  on  black 
lacquered  pillars,  the  ceiling  is 
also  of  black  lacquer,  while  the 
fioor  is  of  ,finely  chiselled  square 
blocks  of  stone.  Opposite  the  door 
is  a  wooden  image  of  Confucius, 
possessing  considerable  merit  as  a 
work  of  art.  The  Museum,  which 
contains  specimens  of  school  and 
kindergarten  furniture,  books, 
maps,  etc.,  is  open  daily  to  visitors. 
Just  above,  in  the  same  grounds, 
stand  the  two  sections  of  the 
Normal  School  (8hihan-0akkd),  that 
in  brick  being  for  men^  the  other 
for  women. 

Behind  the  Seido,  is  the  Shinto 
temple  of  Kanda_  My oj in,  dedica- 
ted to  the  god  Onamuji  and  to 
Masakado,  a  celebrated  rebel  of 
the  10th  century. 

After  the  final  overthrow  of  Masakado, 
his  ghost  used  to  haunt  the  neighbour- 
hood. In  order  to  lay  this  spectre,  apo- 
theosis was  resorted  to  in  the  13th  cen- 
tury. The  temple,  for  which  a  hoary 
antiquity  is  claimed,  but  which  was  only 
established  in  its  present  site  in  1616,  has 
been  frequently  burnt  down  and  rebuilt 
since  that  time. 

The  temple,  originally  decorated 
with  paintings  by  artists  of  the 
Kano  school,  has  now  grown  some- 
what dingy,  but  is  still  popular 
with  the  multitude.  The  yearly 
festival,  which  is  celebrated  on 
the  15th  September,  is  well-worth 
seeing. 

Entering  the  main  street  of  the 
district  of  Kanda,  one  of  the  chief 
arteries  of  the  Northern  portion  of 
the  metropolis,  we  oome  r.  to  the 
Imperial  Uniyersity  (TeikolM  Dai- 
gam),  a  set  of  handsome  brick 
buildings  standing  in  the  exten- 
sive grounds  of  the  former  Kaga 
Yashiki,  or  mansion  of  the  g^eat 
Daimyo  of  £aga. 


78 


Route  4, — Tohjo, 


The  germ  of  this  institution  was  the 
Ban»ho  Shirabe-Jo,  or  *  Place  for  the  Ex- 
amination of  Barbarian  Writings,*  founded 
by  the  Tokugawa  Government  in  1856. 
Seven  years  later,  this  name  was  changed 
to  that  of  Kaisei-fOf  or  *  Place  for  Develop- 
ing and  Completing/  which  indicated  a 
change  for  the  better  in  the  views  held 
by  the  Japanese  as  to  the  value  of  Euro- 
pean learning.  Numerous  other  changes 
nave  taken  place  both  in  the  name  and 
scope  of  the  institution,  which  since  1881 
has  been  placed  on  a  thoroughly  modem 
footing,  and  now  includes  CoUeges  of 
Law,  Medicine,  Engineering,  Literature, 
Science,  and  Agriculture,  where  lectures 
are  delivered  by  a  lar^  staff  of  professors 
of  various  nationalities  and  in  various 
languages.  The  students  number  over 
1,900.  The  courses  that  attract  most 
students  are  those  of  Law  and  Medicine. 
A  large  hospital  connected  with  the  Uni- 
versity stan^  in  the  same  grounds. 
Other  institutions  under  the  authority  of 
the  President  of  the  University  are  the 
Botanical  Gkirdens  in  the  district  of  Koi- 
shikawa,  the  TOkyo  Observatory  at  ligura 
in  Tokyo,  and  the  Marine  Biological 
Observatoiy  at  Misaki  in  the  province  of 
Sagami, 

_  Further  on  in  the  direction  of 
Oji  are  the  florists'  gardens  of 
Dango-zaka,  whither  the  towns- 
folk flock  in  thousands  to  see  the 
chrysanthemum  shows  in  Novem- 
ber. The  flowers  are  trained  over 
trellis-work  to  represent  historical 
and  mythological  scenes,  ships, 
dragons,  and  other  curious  designs. 
In  1890,  there  were  flowery  repre- 
sentations of  the  chief  members  of 
the  first  Imperial  Diet  which  had 
just  been  elected. 

The  O'Qwannon,  or  *  Great 
Kwannon,'  may  be  worth  a  pass- 
ing visit.  The  gilt  image,  which  is 
16  ft.  high,  was  an  offering  made 
in  the  17th  century  by  a  merchant 
of  Yedo,  and  represents  the  goddess 
bending  slightly  forward,  and 
holding  in  her  hand  the  lotus,  the 
emblem  of  purity.  Round  the  walls 
of  the  shrine  containing  the  image, 
are  ranged  in  tiers  the  Sen-tax 
Kwannon,  or  images  of  the  '  Thou- 
sand Incarnations  of  Ewannon.' 

The  KaUhikawa,  Botanical  Garden 
{Shohw-hutsv^en)  is  open  to  the 
public.  Duplicate  specimens  of 
the  plants  are  for  sale  at  the  office. 

The  small  temple  of  Mui^o-in,  in 


the  same  district,  is  connected  with, 
the  history  of  the  early  Catholic 
missionaries  to  Japan,  some  of 
whom  lie  buried  in  the  cemetery. 
Hence  the  name  of  Kirishitan- 
zaka,  or  *  Christian  Hill,'  by  which 
the  locality  is  popularly  known. 
The  grave  of  the  earliest  of  these 
missionaries.  Father  Giuseppe 
Chiara,  who  died  in  1685,  may  be 
distinguished  by  a  priest's  hat 
carved  in  stone.  Readers  desirous  of 
further  details  are  referred  to  the 
writings  of  Mr.  Ernest  Satow  and 
Professor  J.  M.  Dixon,  in  Vol.  VI, 
Part  I,  and  Vol.  XVI,  Part  III,  of 
the  'Transactions  of  the  Asiatic 
Society  of  Japan.' 

The  temple  of  Dcn»i*-'in,  close  by, 
has  a  certain  historic  in^rest  as 
the  resting-place  of  leyasu's 
mother.  The  main  altar,  sur- 
mounted by  a  large  gilt  image  of 
Shaka,  is  handsomely  ornamented. 

The  Koishikawa  Arsenal  (Hohei 
Kosho)  occupies  the  site  of  the 
former  mansion  of  the  Prince  of 
Mito.  Here  are  manufactured  the 
celebrated  Murata  rifles.  An  order 
from  the  military  authorities  is 
necessary  to  gain  admittance.  An 
order  is  also  necessary  for  the 
Garden  (Korakuen),  which  stiU  re- 
mains intact,  and  is  the  finest 
specimen  of  the  Japanese  land- 
scape gardener's  art  to  be  seen  in 
the  capital.  Its  design  was  to 
reproduce  in  miniature  many  of 
the  scenes  whose  names  are  fami- 
liar to  the  literati  of  Japan. 
Prince  Mitsukuni,  generally  known 
as  Mito  Komon,  laid  out  the 
grounds  as  a  place  in  which  to 
enjoy  a  calm  old  age  after  a  life  of 
labour.  If  the  visitor  has  first 
inspected  the  Arsenal,  he  wUl  then 
be  conducted  to  a  summer-house 
in  the  Garden,  with  an  extensive 
grass-plot  attached,  and  overlook- 
ing a  lake  copied  from  a  noted  one 
in  China  called  Sei-ko.  A  small 
wooded  hill  rises  beyond,  which  we 
ascend,  and  on  which  stands  a 
miniature  replica  of   the   famous 


Koishikawa,     Umo, 


79 


temple  of  Kiyomizu  at  Kyoto,  en- 
riched with  carvings,  but  worn  by 
time.      Descending,    we    are .  im- 
mersed for  a  minute  in  the  depths 
of  a  wood  before  reaching  an  old 
bridge  with  a  rivulet  running  far 
below.     Crossing  the  bridge  and 
following  up  a  zigzag    path,   we 
come  to  the  shrine  of  H^u-i  and 
Shiku-sei,  the    loyal    brothers   of 
Chinese  lore,  who,  after  the  over- 
throw of  their  lord  and  master, 
refused  to  eat  the  corn  produced 
under  the  conqueror's  sway,  and, 
secluding    themselves    on    Mount 
Shuyo,  Uved  on  ferns  till,  being 
told  that  ferns  grew  also  on  their 
enemy's  lands,  they  abstained  even 
from  that  poor  food,  and  so  died  of 
starvation.       An     arched      stone 
bridge  and  another  shrine,  shaped 
octagonally    in    allusion    to    the 
Eight  Diagrams  of    the   Chinese 
system   of    divination,    are    next 
passed.    From  here,  a  tunnel-Hke 
opening  leads  through  a  thicket  of 
creepers  and  other  Ixees  to  a  lake 
several  acres  in  extent  and  full  of 
lotus-floweis.      The    water,  which 
comes  from  the  Tamagawa  aque- 
duct, is  made  to  form  a  pretty  cas- 
cade before  falling  into  the  lake. 
An  island  in  the  centre  is  con- 
nected   with  the  mainland  by  a 
bridge.      Everywhere    there    are 
magnificent  trees — cherry-trees  for 
tlie  spring,  maples  for  the  autumn, 
plum-trees  for  the  winter,  making 
a  change  of  scene  at  each  season. 
Near  the  exit,  is  a  hill  with    a 
path  paved  in  such  manner  as  to 
imitate  the  road  over  the  Hakone 
Pass. 

On  the  extreme  N.  W.  outskirt 
of  the  city  stands  the  Buddhist 
temple  of  Ookohuji,  now  used  as 
the  head-quarters  of  the  Shingon 
sect,  who  have  a  seminary  there  for 
young  priests.  With  its  extensive 
grounda,  its  silent  belfry,  and  the 
perfect  stillness  of  its  surround- 
ings, it  recalls  the  memory  of  days 
now  irretrievably  past,  when  Bud- 


dhism was  a  mighty  power  in  the 
land.  The  azaleas  here  are  noted 
for  their  beauty.  The  chief  trea- 
sure of  the  temple  is  a  gigantic 
kakemono  of  Buddha's  Entry  into 
Nirvana  by  Kano  Yasunobu,  which 
is  shown  only  during  the  month  of 
April. 

Adjoining  Gokokuji  is  the  new 
Cemetery  of  the  Imperial  family, 
selected  since  the  removal  of  the 
Court  to  Tokyo.  It  is  not  open  to 
the  public.  The  interment  here 
in  1891  of  Prince  Sanjo,  one  of  the 
leaders  of  the  Kestoration  and 
long  Prime  Minister,  was  an  im- 
posing pageant. 

6. — Ueno  Park,  Temples,  and 
Museum.  Asakusa.  Higashi 
HoNGWANJi.  Temple  or  Kwan- 
KON.    Mukojima.    Hobikibi. 

Ueno  Park  is  the  most  popular 
resort  in  the  metropolis,  and  has 
been  the  site  of  three  National 
Industrial  Exhibitions.  Here,  in 
April,  all  Tokyo  assembles  to  ad- 
mire the  wonderful  mass  of  cherry- 
blossom  for  which  it  is  famous. 
No  traveller  should  miss  this  op- 
portunity of  witnessing  a  scene 
charming  alike  for  natiural  beauty 
and  picturesque  Eastern  life. 

Originally  the  Yedo  residence  of  the 
Todo  family,  Ueno  was  taken  over  by 
the  Shdgun  lemitsu  in  the  year  1625 
for  the  purpose  of  erecting  here  in 
the  North-Eastem,  and  therefore  accord- 
ing to  a  prevalent  superstition  the 
most  imlucky,  portion  of  the  new  capital, 
a  series  of  Buddhist  temples  that  should 
surpass  all  others  in  splendour.  The 
original  main  temple  then  founded  oc- 
cupied  the  site  of  the  present  MuBeum, 
and  was  burnt  down  in  1808  on  the 
occasion  of  a  bloody  battle  fought  be- 
tween the  partisans  of  the  Mik£io  and 
those  of  the  Shogun.  The  outer  gate  still 
exists,  showing  the  marks  of  bullets.  This 
temple  was  counted  among  the  triumphs 
of  Japanese  architecture.  Here  always 
resided  as  high-priest  a  son  of  the  reign- 
ing Mikado,  retained  in  gilded  slavery 
for  political  reasons,  as  it  was  convenient 
for  the  Shdguns  to  have  in  their  power  a 
prince  who  could  at  once  be  decorated 
with  the  Imperial  title,  should  the  Court  of 
Kydto  at  any  time  prove  unfavourabl« 


80 


Route  4, — Tokyo. 


to  their  policy,  "the  last  high-priest  of 
Ueno  was  actually  utilised  in  this  man- 
ner by  the  Shogun's  partisans,  and  car- 
ried off  by  them  to  Aizu  when  they  raised 
the  standjard  of  rebeUion.  On  their  defeat, 
he  was  pardoned  by  the  present  legiti- 
mate sovereign,  was  sent  to  Germany  to 
study,  and  is  now  known  by  the  title  of 
Prince  Kita  Shirakawa, 

Leaving  Ms  jinrikisha  at  tlie 
bottom  of  the  hill,  the  traveller 
ascends  r.  a  short  flight  of  steps, 
leading  to  a  plateau  planted  with 
cherry-trees  and  commanding  a 
good  view  of  the  city,  especially 
towards  Asakusa,  including  the 
twelve-storied  tower  which  is  seen 
rising  beyond  the  Ueno  railway 
station,  the.  circular  Panorama 
building,  and  the  high  roof  of  the 
great  Hongwanji  temple.  The  stone 
monument  on  this  plateau  is  de- 
dicated to  the  soldiers  who  fell 
fighting  for  the  Shogun's  cause  in 
the  battle  of  Ueno.  Close  by  to  the 
1.,  is  a  dingy  Buddhist  temple  dedi- 
cated to  the  Thousand-Handed 
Kwannon. 

Descending  again  to  the  main 
road,  we  reach  the  celebrated 
avenue  of  cherry-trees,  a  uniquely 
beautiful  sight  during  the  season 
of  blossom.  The  air  seems  to  be 
filled  with  pink  clouds.  To  the  1., 
is  a  shallow  piece  of  water  called 
8hinohazyrno-ike,  and  celebrated  for 
its  lotus  flowers  in  August.  On  a 
little  peninsula  jutting  out  into 
the  lake,  are  a  number  of  tea-houses 
and  a  shrine  dedicated  to  the 
goddess  Benten.  This  formerly 
romantic  spot  has  of  late  years 
fallen  a  viction  to  vandalism,  the 
shores  of  the  lake  having  been 
turned  into  a  race-course.  A  little 
further  up,  is  a  branch  of  the  *  Sei- 
yoken  Hotel,  which  commands  a 
good  view  of  the  lake.  The  eicten- 
sive  buildings  seen  in  the  distance, 
on  a  height  to  the  r.,  are  some  of 
the  Colleges  of  the  Imperial  Uni- 
versity. Close  to  the  hotel  is  a 
bronze  image  of  Buddha,  21^  ft. 
high,  known  as  the  Daibutsu.  This 
inferior  specimen   of    the    bronze 


sculptor's  art  dates  from  about  the 
year  1660.  Following  along  the 
main  road  for  a  few  yards,  we  come 
1.  to  a  bullet-riddled  gate,  pre- 
served as  a  relic  of  the  battle  of 
Ueno.  An  immense  stone  lantern 
just  inside  the  gate  is  one  of  the 
three  largest  in  Japan,  the  work 
of  Sakuma  Daizenosuke  who  flou- 
rished early  in  the  I7th  century. 
Beyond  it  again,  has  stood  since 
1890  a  switch-back  railway,  whose 
vulgar  clatter  strikes  a  strangely 
discordant  note  in  the  harmony 
produced  by  the  stately  crypto- 
merias,  the  ancienit  pagoda,  and 
the  glorious  gold  gate  at  the 
end  of  the  long  avenue  of  stone 
lanterns,  presented  in  1651  by 
various  Daimyos  as  a  tribute  to 
the  memory  of  the  Shogun  leyasn. 
To  this  Shogun,  under  his  posthu- 
mous name  of  Toshogu  or  Gongen 
Sama,  the  shrine  within  the  gate 
is  dedicated.  Th^  gate  itself,  re- 
stored in  1890,  is  a  dream  of 
beauty.  Carvings  of  dragons 
adorn  it  on  either  side.  Above  are 
geometrical  figures,  birds,  foliage, 
and  everywhere  the  Tokugawa 
crest  of  three  Asarum  leaves.  It  is 
intended  to  restore  in  the  same 
style  the  temple  whose  gold  has 
been  worn  away  in  many  places. 
The  details  resemble  those  of  the 
Mortuary  Shrines  at  Shiba.  The 
temple  contains  some  fine  speci- 
mens of  lacquer.  Bound  the  walls 
hang  pictures  of  the  San-jHrroJc-Jca^ 
sen,  below  which  are  screens  with 
conventional  lions. 

The  8an-jU-roh-ka-»en,  or  Thirty-six  Po- 
etical Geniuses,  flourished  during  the  Sth, 
9th,  and  10th  centuries.  The  grouping 
of  their  names  in  a  galaxy  is  attributed 
to  a  court  noble  of  the  11th  century  named 
Kinto  Dainagon.  Their  portraits  were 
first  painted  by  Fujiwara-no-Nobuzane 
about  A.D  1200.  A  complete  list  of  their 
names  will  be  found  m  Dr.  Wm.  An- 
derson's interesting  '  Catalogue  of  Japa- 
nese and  Chinese  Paintings. 

Returning  to  the  main  road 
the  way  we  came,  and  passing 
through  the  now  closed  buildings 


Ueno  Museum. 


81 


of    the    last    National    Industrial 
Szhibition,  we  reach  the 

Ueno  Miisenm  (Hahibutsu-Jcvjan). 
This  institution,  which  is  open 
every  day  except  Monday,  from  8 
to  5  in  summer,  and  from  9  to  4  in 
winter,  is  well-worth  a  visit.  The 
contents  are  arranged  as  follows : — 

Ground  Floor.  L.  of  Entrance- 
Industrial  Department : — Boom  1, 
porcelain;  Boom  2,  cloisonn6, 
bronze,  lacquer,  metal-work,  pot- 
tery, wood-work ;  Boom  3,  carpets, 
lace,  and  woven  stuffs  j  Boom  4, 
tools,  instruments,  and  miscel- 
lajieous  articles. 

Ground  Floor.  B.  of  Entrance. 
Natural  History  Department.  The 
front  rooms  contain  the  Zoolo- 
gical Section ;  the  back  rooms,  the 
Botanical  and  Agricultural  Sec- 
tions. 

An  annexe  at  the  back  of  the 
main  building  contains  the  Miner- 
alogical  Section,  immediately  be- 
hind which  a  pretty  garden  has 
been  laid  out. 

Upper  Floor.  Landing;  ancient 
Imperial  State  bullock  cart  and 
palanquins,  model  of  the  Tenchi 
Maru,  or  *  Ship  of  Heaven  and 
Earth,'  which  was  the  State  barge 
used  by  the  Shoguns. 

Upper  Floor.  Front  rooms  r. 
(above  Industrial  Department), 
Historical  or  Archaeological  De- 
partment. The  contents  of  this 
Department  being  of  special  in- 
terest, they  are  here  indicated  in 
greater  detail,  as  follows  : — 

Boom  1. 

First  two  ccues  r.  and  1.  Stone 
arrow-heads,  spear-heads,  and  pot- 
tery of  the  prehistoric  period ; 
maga-tama  and  kudortama  in  jasper, 
agate,  etc. 

The  maga-tama,  or  'curved  jewels,' 
which  somewhat  resemble  a  tadpole  in 
shape,  were  anciently  strung  together  and 
used  as  necklaces  and  ornaments  for  the 
waist  both  by  men  and  women,  as  were 
also  the  kudu'tama  or  '  tube  -  shaped 
jewels.*  Their  use  survives  in  the  Loo- 
cboo  Islands. 


Second  cases  r.  and  1.  Prehisto- 
ric stone  celts  and  other  objects; 
proto-hietoric  copper  mirrorl  and 
horse-trappings. 

Third  cases.  Proto-historic  cop- 
per beUs,  iron  swords,  armour, 
horse-trappings,  shoes,  and  cooking 
utensils. 

Fourth  cases.  Iron  swords,  spear- 
heads, horse-trappings,  pottery 
anciently  used  for  the  presentation 
of  offerings  to  the  Shinto  gods. 
Some  pieces  from  the  provinces  on 
the  N.E.  shore  of  the  Inland  Sea 
are  remarkably  ornamented  with 
human  figures  in  high  relief. 

Fifth  cases.  Early  pottery  con- 
sisting of  sacrificial  cups,  etc. 

Sixth  coMs.  Earthenware  images 
of  men  and  horses  used  in  proto- 
historic  times  for  interment  in  the 
graves  of  illustrious  personages, 
after  the  custom  of  burying  their 
chief  retainers  alive  with  them 
had  been  discontinued ;  figures  of 
birds  —  apparently  geese  —  which 
were  used  as  a  fence  round  the 
tumulus  of  the  Emperor  Ojin  in 
the  province  of  Kawachi;  frag- 
ments of  earthenware  posts  used 
for  a  similar  purpose. 

Boom  2. 

Firsi  ca^s  r.  and  1.  Antiquities 
from  the  Buddhist  temple  of  Ho- 
ryuji  in  Yamato,  including  iron 
and  wooden  begging-bowls,  nickel 
and  bronze  flower-vases  and  im- 
plements for  food,  golden  tokko,  and 
specimens  of  the  miniature  pago- 
das of  which,  in  A.D.  764,  the 
reigning  Mikado  caused  a  million 
to  be  made  for  distribution  to  all 
the  Buddhist  temples  throughout 
the  land.  There  are  also  manu- 
scripts, which  are  among  the  earli- 
est specimens  of  Japanese  calli- 
graphy. They  are  aU  in  the 
Chinese  language. 

Second  cases.  Antiquities  from 
Horyuji,  including  incense-burners 
with  long  handles,  boxes,  shoes, 
and  scarves,  whose  patterns  show 
the  stiff  Chinese  formality  of  the 


82 


Baute  4* — Tokyo, 


art-industry  of  early  Japan,  miisical 
instruments,  ecclesiastical  'proper- 
ties/ such.  9^  exorcising-wands, 
temple  seals^  etc.,  and  miscella- 
neous articles  of  common  use. 

Third  cases.  Antiquities  from 
Todaiji  at  Nara,  including  miscel- 
laneous articles,  Buddhist  reliqua- 
ries— one  of  these  holds  specimens 
of  the  little  bead-like  relics  of  a 
Buddha  which  are  known  as  shari 
—  musical  instruments,  tuning- 
forks,  and  standard  measures. 

Fourth  cases.    Christian  relics  : 

Many  of  these  date  from  tlie  embassy  to 
Rome  of  Hashikura  Rokuemon,  who  was 
sent  thither  by  Date  Masamune,  Prince  of 
Sendai,  in  1614,  with  a  train  of  followers, 
and  returned  to  Japan  in  1620,  The  oflft- 
cial  Japanese  account  of  this  curious 
episode  is  that  the  embassy  went  at  the 
ShO^n's  desire,  in  order  to  investigate 
the  political  strength  and  resources  of 
Europe,  The  version  usually  accepted  by 
European  writers  is  that  the  eicpedition 
really  was  what  it  avowed  itself  to  be — 
an  act  of  submission  to  the  religious 
supremacy  of  the  Pope,  The  envoy  was 
vrell-received  at  the  Roman  Court,  and 
was  presented  with  the  freedom  of  the 
city  of  Rome,  besides  being  loaded  with 
presents.  The  relics  remained  in  the 
possession  of  the  Date  family  at  Sendai 
until  a  few  years  ago. 

Among  the  objects  in  these  cases, 
are  an  oil-painting  of  Hashikura 
in  prayer  before  a  crucifix,  an 
illuminated  Latin  document  con- 
ferring on  him  the  freedom  of  the 
city  of  Rome,  holy  pictures,  rosaries, 
crucifixes,  a  small  Japanese  book 
of  Catholic  devotion  in  hiragana 
characters,  photographs  of  Date 
Masamune's  letters  to  the  Pope  in 
Japanese  and  Latin,  a  portrait  of 
Hashikura  in  his  Italian  costume, 
etc.  To  a  set  of  circumstances 
very  different  in  their  nature, 
though  not  far  removed  in  time, 
belong  the  fumi-ita,  or  "trampling 
boards," — oblong  blocks  of  metsS 
with  figures  in  high  relief  of  Christ 
before  Pilate,  the  Descent  from 
the  Cross,  the  Madonna  and  Child, 
etc.,  on  which  persons  suspected 
of  the  crime  of  Christianity  were 
obliged  to  trample  during  times  of 
persecution,    in    order  to    testify 


their  abjuration  of  the  *  depraved 
sect,'  as  it  was  called.  The  Dutch 
traders  at  Nagasaki  are  suspected 
of  having  lent  themselves  to  this 
infamous  practice  for  the  sake  of 
monetary  gain. 

Fifth  cases.  Implements  used  in 
the  Shinto  religious  cult. 

Sixth  ca^s.  Coins  illustrating 
the  currency  of  Japan  from  A.D. 
708  onwards ;  standard  weights 
and  measures.  The  very  large 
oblong  gold  coins  were  called  dhan, 
the  smaller  ones  kohan. 

The  last  room  of  this  suite  con- 
tains a  model  of  the  Shinto  shrines 
temporarily  erected  in  the  Fukiage 
Garden  at  Tokyo  for  the  corona- 
tion of  the  present  Emperor,  and 
burnt  down  after  the  ceremony. 
A  small  room  1.  contains  Imperial 
robes  and  the  ancient  Imperial 
throne,  with  exquisitely  delicate 
silk  hangings,  which  served  to 
shroud  majesty  from  the  gaze  of 
ordinary  mortals. 

The  back  rooms  on  this  side  con- 
tain : — Room  1,  court  robes  and 
ancient  textile  fabrics ;  Room  2, 
armour  and  weapons ;  Room  3, 
musical  instruments,  tea  utensils, 
masks,  and  theatrical  costumes. 

Upper  Floor,  1.  (above  Natural 
History  Department).  Front 
Rooms,  Fine  Art  Department. 
Central  Room  and  Room  1,  Kake- 
monos and  Mahimonos;  Room  2, 
masks  and  images,  chiefly  bronze ; 
Room  8,  manuscripts  and  illustrat- 
ed scrolls.  The  back  rooms  com- 
prise the  Art  Industry  Depart- 
ment,— ^lacquer,  porcelain,  bronze, 
etc. 

There  is  a  large  wing  to  the  r. 
of  the  entrance,  but  it  is  not  now 
open  to  the  public. 

On  quitting  the  Museum,  an 
avenue  r.  leads  to  the  Art.  School 
{Bijutsu  Qukko),  not  accessible 
without  a  special  introduction.  In 
the  same  grounds,  are  a  Public 
Library  and  Reading  Room  (Tosho' 
kwan)t    and    a  learned    Academy 


Tombs  of  the  Shoguns. 


88 


called  the  Oahishi  Kai-in.  Behind 
these,  are  the  Zoological  Gardens 
{Dobutsu-en). 

Before  reaching  the  Tosho-kwan, 
an  avenue  turns  ofif  r.  to  the 

Tombs  of  the  Sh6^nns(OoBeiya), 
abutting  on  the  second  and  finer 
of  the  two  Mortuary  Temples  (^t 
no  Oo  Reiya).  The  main  gate  is 
always  kept  closed,  but  a  side  en- 
trance 1.  leads  to  the  priest* s  house. 
The  resident  custodian  will  act  as 
guide  for  a  small  fee. 

The  six  Shdgons  buried  at  TJeno 
belonged  to  the  Tokugawa  family,  being 
the  4th,  5th,  8th,  10th,  11th,  and  18th 
of  their  line.  It  is  still  at  the  private 
expense  of  the  family  that  these  shrines 
are  kept  up.  In  general  style,  they 
closely  resemble  those  at  Shiba,  described 
on  p.  68,  and  are  among  the  priceless 
legacies  of  the  art  of  Old  Japan.  Like  the 
Shiba  shrines,  too,  they  have  suffered  at 
the  hands  of  thieves  since  the  Revolution 
of  1868. 

This  glorious  building,  a  sym- 
phony in  gold  and  blended  colours, 
has  a  wooden  colonnade  in  front, 
the  red  walls  of  which  are  divided 
into  compartments,  each  contain- 
ing a  medallion  in  the  centre,  filled 
with  painted  open-work  carvings 
of  birds  and  flowers,  with  ara- 
besques derived  from  the  chrysan- 
themum above  and  a  carved  wave- 
design  below.  In  the  centre  of 
this  colonnade  is  a  gate  decorated 
with  a  painting  of  an  angel.  From 
here,  an  open  colonnade  leads  up  to 
the  steps  of  the  main  building. 
The  porch  has  brackets  carved 
with  conventional  chrysanthe- 
mums. Its  square  columns  are 
adorned  with  plum-blossoms  in 
red  and  gold.  Under  the  beams, 
are  red  and  gold  lions'  heads  as 
brackets.  The  doors  of  the  oratory 
are  carved  in  diapers,  and  gilded 
all  over.  Note  the  tastefuUy 
painted  diapers  on  the  architrave. 
The  ceiling  is  massive  and  loaded 
with  metal  fastenings.  In  the 
coffers  are  dragons  in  gold  on  a 
blue  ground.  The  interior  walls 
are  gilded,  having  in  some  places 
conventional  paintings  of  lions,  in 


others  movable  shutters.  This 
apai-tment  is  16  yds.  wide  by  7 
yds.  in  depth.  The  corridor  which 
succeeds  it  is  4  yds.  wide  by  8  yds. 
in  depth,  and  leads  to  the  black 
lacquered  steps  of  the  inner 
sanctum.  Its  ceiling  is  decorated 
with  the  phoenix  on  a  green  and 
gold  ground.  Handsome  gilt  doors 
covered  with  carved  arabesques 
close  the  entrance  to  the  sanctum, 
which  measures  7  yds.  in  depth  by 
11  yds.  in  width.  The  ceiling  is 
decorated  with  fine  gilt  lattice- 
work in  the  coffers.  The  small 
shrines,  containing  the  memorial 
tablets  of  the  illustrious  dead,  are 
gorgeous  specimens  of  gold  lacquer. 
Beginning  at  the  r.,  these  shrines 
are  respectively  those  of  the  5th, 
8th,  and  13th  Shoguns,  and  of  Ko- 
kyo-In,  son  of  the  10th  Shogun. 
B.  and  1.  are  two  shrines  contain- 
ing tablets  of  eight  mothers  of 
Shoguns.  Curiously  enough,  all 
were  concubines,  not  legitimate 
consorts.  The  actual  graves  are 
in  the  grounds  behind.  The  finest, 
a  bronze  one,  is  that  of  the  5th 
Shogun.  Its  bronze  gate  has 
magnificent  panels  with  the  phoenix 
and  unicorn  in  bas-relief, — Korean 
castings  from  Japanese  designs 
about  140  years  old. 

The  First  Mortuary  Temple  (Ichi 
no  Go  Reiya)  is  close  to  the  Second. 
On  leaving  the  Second,  turn  to  thd 
1.  to  reach  the  priests'  house,  where 
application  for  admission  must  be 
made.  Here  are  buried  the  4th, 
10th,  and  11th  Shoguns,  together 
with  several  princesses.  The 
monument  of  the  4th  is  in  bronze, 
the  others  in  simple  stone.  Over 
the  grave  of  the  11th  Shogun 
hangs  a  weeping  cherry-tree,  placed 
there  to  commemorate  the  love  of 
flowers  which  distinguished  that 
amiable  prince,  whose  reign  (A.D. 
1787-1838)  was  the  culminating 
point  of  the  splendour  of  Old  Japan. 

Returning  towards  the  entrance 
of  the  park,  we  reach  the  Buddhist 
temple    popularly  known  as   RyQ 


84 


Baute  4. — Tokyo. 


Vaithif  properly  Jigen-Do,  dedicated 
Vt  the  two  great  Abbots,  Jie  Dai-  ! 
•hi  and  Jigen  Daishi,  the  former 
of  whom  flotiriBhed  in  the  9th 
eentutj,  the  latter  in  the  I6th 
and  17th,  On  this  side  of  the 
park  are  some  buildings  often  used 
of  late  years  for  art  exhibitions  of 
Tarious  kinds. 

We  now  leave  Ueno,  and  passing  : 
along  a  busy  thoroughfare,  reach 
the  district  of  Asakusa.  The  first  ' 
object  of  interest  here  is  the  , 
spaeions  temple  of  Higashi  Hon-  i 
inranji,  popularly  called  Monzehi,  \ 
tlie  chief  religious  edifice  in  Tokyo  | 
of  the  Monto  sect  of  Buddhists. 
Though  yery  plain,  as  is  usual 
with  the  buildings  of  this  sect,  the 
Monzeki  is  worth  visiting  on  ac- 
count of  its  noble  proportions.  It 
was  founded  in  1657.  The  iron 
net-work  thrown  over  the  temple 
is  intended  to  prevent  sparks  from 
falling  on  the  wood-work,  when 
there  is  a  conflagration  in  the 
neighbourhood.  Ilie  huge  porch 
is  adorned  with  finely  carved 
wooden  brackets,  the  designs  being 
chrysanthemum  flowers  and  leaves, 
and  peony  flowers  and  leaves.  On  the 
transverse  beams  are  some  curiously 
involved  dragons.  These  are  the 
best  specimens  of  this  sort  of  work 
to  be  seen  in  Tokyo,  and  should 
■  not  be  passed  over.  Observe  too 
the  manner,  peculiar  to  the  build- 
ings of  this  sect,  in  which  the 
beams  are  picked  out  with  white. 
The  area  of  the  matted  floor  of  the 
nave  (g^m)  is  140  mats,  and  round 
the  front  and  sides  runs  a  wooden 
aisle  12  ft.  wide.  Over  the  screen 
which  separates  the  chancel  and 
its  side-chapels  from  the  nave,  are 
massive  gilt  open-work  carvings 
representing  angels  and  phoenixes ; 
the  largest  are  12  ft.  in  length  by 
4  ft.  in  height.  The  rest  of  the 
building  is  unadorned.  Hanging 
against  the  gilt  background  of  the 
temple  wall,  on  either  side  of  the 
altar,  are  to  be  seen  several  kake- 


monos of  Buddhist  saints,  indistin- 
guishable in    the   '  dim  religious 
light;'    also    r.    the   poethumoiiB 
tablet  of  leyasn,  which  is  exposed 
for  veneration  on  the  17th  of  the 
month.  ThehoHMon,  Amida^isablack 
image,    always    exposed  to  Tiew, 
and  standing  in  a  very  handsome 
shrine  of  black  and  gold  lacquer. 
From  the  r.  side  of  the  main  hall,  & 
bridge  leads  down  to  the  Jiki-do, 
or  preaching  halL    At  the  main 
temple,  sermons  are  only  preached 
for  one  week  in  the  year,  viz.  from 
the  21st  to  28th  November,  when  the 
gorgeous  services  {hd-cn-ko)  held  in 
honour  of  the  founder  of  the  sect 
are    well-worth    witnessing.      On 
this  occasion,  the  men  all  go  to  the 
temple  in  the  style  of  dress  known 
as  kator^inu,  and  the  women  with 
a  head-dress  called    tsuno-kakushi 
(Ut.  *hom-hider') — both  relics  of 
the  past.    The  'hom-hider'  would 
seem  to  have  been  so  named  in 
allusion  to  a  Buddhist  text  which 
says :   '  A*woman's  exterior  is  thai 
of  a  saint,  but  her  heart  is  that  of  i 
demon.'-^Lesser  services  are  helc 
at   the  time    of   the    vernal   an< 
autumnal  equinoxes.    Quaint  test! 
mony  is  borne  to  the  popularity  o 
this  temple  with  the  lower  middl 
class  by  the '  notices  posted  up  o: 
some  of  the  great  columns  in  th 
main    hall.      Not    only    is    thei 
one  to  prohibit  smoking,  but  or 
warning  people  not  to  come  liei 
for  their  afternoon  nap    (Hiiru-i 
muyo)!    On  quitting  the  Monzel 
notice  its  nobly  massive  roof,  w^i1 
lions  rampant  at  the  corners. 

About  7  cho  from  the  Monzel 
stands  the  great  Buddhist  temp 
of  Sensdji,  popularly  called  Asakn 
Kwannon,  because   dedicated 
Kwannon,  the  goddess  of  Mercy. 

A  fabulous  antiquity  is  claizned  for  1 
founding  in  this  locality  of  a  slir 
sacred  to  Kwannon,  the  tntdition  be: 
that  the  image  which  is  now  -worsbip] 
there,  was  fished  up  on  the  neigliborLr 
strand  during  the  reign  of  th.e  Bmpx 
Suiko  (A.D.  693—628)  by  a  noble  of 
name  of  Hashi-no-Nakatomo,    who    ] 


Asahisa  Temple, 


86 


been  exiled  to  this  then  desolate  portion 
of  tbe  coast,  and  with  two  attendants 
gained  his  livelihood  by  casting  his  nets 
at  the  mouth  of  the  Asaknsa  river.  In 
his  fishing  hut  the  first  altar  is  said  to 
have  heen  raised ;  and  the  crest  of  three' 
nets,  which  is  to  be  seen  marking  certain 
portions  of  the  buildings,  was  devised  in 
memory  of  the  event.  The  miraculous 
image  is  never  shown,  but  is  commonly 
believed  to  be  but  1|  inch  in  height; 
and  th.e  disproportion  between  the  small- 
ness  of  the  image  and  the  vastness  of  the 
temple  has  passed  into  a  popular  saying . 
Instead  of  the  actual  sacred  image,  there 
is  exbibited  on  the  13th  December  of  every 
year  another  laiger  one  which  stands  in 
front  of  the  high  "altar.  In  the  year  1180, 
Yoritomo  endowed  the  temple  with  ninety 
acres  of  arable  land.^  But  when  leyasu 
made  Tedo  his  capital,  he  found  the 
temple  gone  to  ruin,  and  the  priests 
living  in  disorder  and  immorality.    The 

firesent  buildings  date  from  the  time  of 
emitsu,  after  the  destruction  by  fire  of 
the  former  edifice.  They  are  in  the 
possession  of  the  Tendaisect  of  Buddhists 

On  no  account  should  a  visit  to 
this  popular  temple  and  the 
grounds  (Kdenchi)  surrounding  it 
be  omitted ;  for  it  is  the  great  holi- 
day resort  of  the  middle  and  lower 
classes,  and  nothing  is  more  striking 
than  the  juxtaposition  of  piety  and 
pleasure,  of  gorgeous  altars  and 
grotesque  ex-votos,  of  pretty  cos- 
tumes and  dingy  idols,  the  clatter 
of  the  clogs,  cocks  and  hens  and 
pis^eons  strutting  about  among  the 
worshippers,  children  playing, 
soldiers  smoking,  believers  chaffer- 
ing with  dealers  of  charms,  ancient 
art,  modern  advertisements  —  in 
fine,  a  spectacle  than  which  surely 
nothing  more  motley  was  ever 
witnessed  within  a  religious  edifice. 
The  most  crowded  time  is  Sunday 
afternoon,  and  the  17th  and  18th 
of  each  months  days  sacred  to 
Kwannon. 

The  mfdn  gate  of  the  temple  no 
longer  exists.  One  walks  up 
through  a  lane  of  red  brick  shops, 
where  toys,  photographs,  and  gew- 
gaws of  all  kinds  are  spread  out 
to  tempt  the  multitude.  The  sam- 
mon,  or  two-storied  gate  in  front  of 
the  temple,  is  a  huge  structure  of 
red  wood,  with  images  of  the  Ni-o 
on    either    side.      The     immense 


sandals  hung  up  in  front  of  the 
cages  containing  these  images,  are 
placed  there  by  persons  desirous 
of  becoming  good  walkers.  To  the 
1.,  immediately ,  before  passing 
through  the  big  gate,  is  a  popular 
shrine  of  Fudo,  just  outside  of 
which  is  a  shrine  of  Jiz5,  distin- 
guishable by  a  prayer-wheel  (go- 
sho-guruma)  roughly  resembling  a 
pillar  post-box. 

The  prayer-wheel  is,  in  Japan,  found 
only  in  connection  with  the  mystic  doc- 
trine of  the  Tendai  and  Shingon  sects, 
and  its  use  differs  slightly  from  that  to 
which  it  is  put  in  Thibet.  No  prayers  are 
written  on  it ;  but  the  worshipper,  attri- 
buting to  ingwa  (the  Sanskrit  Jcarma, 
that  IS,  *  the  effects  in  this  life  of  the 
actions  in  a  former  state  of  existence') 
any  sin  of  which  he  wishes  to  be  rid,  or 
any  desire  that  occurs  to  him,  turns  the 
wheel  with  a  simple  request  to  Jizo  to  let 
this  ingtoa  duly  run  its  course — the  course 
of  ingtoa  resembling  the  perpetual  revolu- 
tions of  a  wheel. 

On  the  opposite  or  r.  side  of  the 
lane,  on  a  mound,  is  the  large  Asa- 
kusa  bell  whose  sonorous  notes  are 
heard  all  over  the  Northern  part 
of  the  city. 

The  great  hall  of  the  temple  of 
Kwannon  is  102  ft.  square,  and  is  en- 
tirely surrounded  by  a  wide  gallery. 
The  large  picture  hanging  above 
the  entrance  to  the  r.  represents  life 
(under  the  figure  of  two  sleeping 
men  and  a  sleepingtiger)  as  nothing 
more  than  a  dream,  the  only  living 
reality  in  which  is  the  power  of 
religion  (typified  by  a  Buddhist 
priest).  The  eye  is  struck,  on  enter- 
ing, by  the  immense  number  of 
lanterns  and  pictures  which  cover 
the  ceiling  and  walls.  These  are 
all  offerings  presented  by  believers. 
Some  of  the  pictures  are  by  good 
modern  artists.  One  over  the 
shrine  to  the  r.  represents  a  perfor- 
mance of  the  "No,  or  mediseval  lyric 
drama,  in  which  the  red-haired 
sea-demon  called  Shojo  plays  the 
chief  part.  Opposite  is  a  curious 
painted  carving  in  relief,  represent- 
ing the  '  Three  Heroes  of  Shoku ' 
(a  Chinese  state  established  in 
the  2nd  century  chiefly  by  their 


S6 


RoiUe  d. — Tokyo, 


efforts).  The  hero  on  the  r.,  called 
Kwan-u,  is  now  worshipped  in 
China  as  the  God  of  War.  To  the 
1.  of  this  is  one  showing  On-Umaya- 
no-Kisanda  fixing  his  bow-string 
to  shoot  the  foea  of  his  master 
Yoshitsune,  the  latter  (to  the  r.) 
being  awakened  by  his  mistress^ 
the  renowned  and  lovely  Shizuka 
Gozen.  The  ceiling  is  painted 
with  representations  of  angels,  the 
work  of  Kano  Doshun.  The  seated 
image  to  the  r.,  with  a  pink  bib 
round  its  neck,  and  now  almost 
rubbed  away  with  age,  was  a  cele- 
brated work  of  Jikaku  Daishi, 
and  represents  Binzuru,  the  helper 
of  the  sick.  At  any  time  of  the 
day  believers  may  be  observed  rub- 
bing it  (see  p.  28).  The  stalls  in 
front  of  the  main  shrine  are  for 
the  sale  of  pictures  of  the  goddess 
Kwannon,  which  are  used  as 
charms  against  sickness,  to  help 
women  in  child-birth,  etc.,  of  tickets 
to  say  whether  a  child  about  to  be 
born  will  be  a  boy  or  a  girl,  and  so 
forth. 

The  chancel  is,  as  usual,  separated 
from  the  nave  by  a  wire  screen, 
and  is  not  accessible  to  the  public. 
An  offering  tendered  to  one  of  the 
priests  in  charge  will,  however, 
generally  procure  admission.  On 
the  high  altar,  gorgeous  with 
lamps,  flowers,  gold,  damask,  and 
sacred  vessels,  and  guarded  by 
figures  of  the  Shi  Tenno,  of  Bonten, 
and  of  Taishaku,  the  latter  said  to 
be  the  work  of  Gyogi  Bosatsu, 
stands  the  shrine  which  contains 
the  sacred  image  of  Kwannon.  On 
either  side  are  ranged  images,  some 
2  or  3  ft.  high,  of  Kwannon  in 
her  '  Three-and-Thirty  Terrestrial 
Embodiments,'  each  set  in  a  hand- 
some shrine  standing  out  against 
the  gold  ground  of  the  wall.  R. 
and  1.  of  the  altar,  hang  a  pair 
of  votive  offerings — golden  horses 
in  high  relief  on  a  lacquer  ground 
— ^presented  by  the  Shogun  lemitsu. 
On  the  ceiling  is  a  dragon,  the 
work  of  Kano  Eishin.    The  side 


altar  to  the  r.  is  dedicated  to  Fudo. 
Observe  the  numerous  vessels  used 
in    the    ceremony     of    the   goma 
.prayers,  which  are  frequently  of- 
fered up  here  for  the  recovery  of 
the  sick.    The  twelve  small  images 
are  the  Ju-ni  Ddji,   or  attendants 
of  Kwannon.      The  altar  to  the 
1.    is    dedicated  to  Aizen  Myo-6, 
whose  red  image  with  three  eyes 
and  six  arms  is  contained  in    a 
gaudy    shrine.      The   two-storied 
miniature    pagoda    is    simply    an 
offering,  as  are  also  the  thousand 
small  images  of    Kwannon  in    a 
case  to  the  1..  and  the  large  Euro- 
pean mirror,  in  front  of  which  is 
a  life-like  image  of  the  abbot  Zen- 
nin  Shonin.    At  the  back  of  the 
main  altar  is   another  called  *  XJrE 
Kwan-non,*  (ura  meaning  *  back  *) 
which  should  be  visited  for   the 
sake  of  the  modern   wall-picture 
on    lacquer    with    a    background 
of     gold     leaf,     by     artists       o 
the  Kano   school.      Above    are 
crowd     of    supernatural     being) 
headed  by  a  converted   dragon   i 
the  form  of   a  beautiful   woma] 
who  offers  a  large  jewel  to   Sliak 
Two  of  the  latter's  dSsciples  {Baka'i 
are  at  his  r.  foot,  Monju   at    his 
foot,  and  Fugen  below  on    the 
The  figure  of  Fugen  has  been  i 
stored  within  the  last  thirty  yea 
Those  on  the  r.  and  1.  walls  are  i 
tended  for  the  Twenty-eight  Ma: 
festations  of  Kwannon. 

In  the  grounds  are  several  bui 
ings  of  interest,  and  a  number 
ichd  trees  whose  golden  foliage 
autumn  is  a  sight  in  itself.  !Behi 
the  great  temple  to  the  1.,  is  a  snn 
shrine  full  of  ex-votos  inscril 
with  the  character  ^,  '  eye,*  j. 
sented  by  persons  afflicted  viritli 
disease.  Beside  it  is  a  large  bro 
image  of  Buddha.  The  small  1: 
agonal  building  immediately  beb 
the  great  temple,  is  the  Daih6-cL 
Jizo-do,  containing  a  crowd,  of  li 
stone  images  seated  in  tiers  ro 
a  large  one  of  Jizo.  This  divii 
being  the  special  protector  of  cl 


Asakusa.     Mukojima, 


87 


ren,  parents  bring  the  images  of 
tlieir  dead  little  ones  to  his  shrine. 
Seyond  the  Jiz6-d6,  is  the  Nembwtsu- 
da  with  a  pretty  altar.  Turning  r., 
Tve  come  to  the  8anja — a  Shinto 
sHrine^  dedicated  to  the  Three 
Fishermen  of  the  local  legend,  and 
Having  panels  decorated  with  my- 
tliological  monsters  in  gaudy 
colours.  Note  the  bronze  and  stone 
lions  in  front.  Passing  the  stage 
on  which  the  Z^agrwra  dances  are  per- 
formed, we  reach  the  Rinzo,  or  *  Re- 
volving Library,'  in  a  square 
building  with  carved  lioiis  on  the 
eaves. 

The  Rinzo  is  a  receptacle  lai^  enough 
to  contain  a  complete  edition  of  the  Bud- 
dhist Scriptures,  but  turning  so  easily  on 
a  pivot  as  to  be  readily  made  to  revolve 
by  one  vigorous  push.    A  ticket  over  the 
door  explains  the  use  of  this  peculiar  book 
case  :      '  Owing  to  the  voluminousness  of 
tbe  Buddhist  Scriptures— 6,771    volumes 
— it  is  impossible  for  any  single  individual 
to  read  them  through.    But  a  degree  of 
merit  equal  to  that  accruing  to  him  who 
should  have  perused  the  entire  canon,  will 
be  obtained  by  those  who  will  cause  this 
library  to  revolve  three  times  on  its  axis ; 
and  moreover  long  life,  prosperity,  and  the 
avoidance  of  all  misfortunes  shall  be  their 
reward.'     The  invention  of    *  Revolving 
Libraries'    is   attributed    to    a  Chinese 
priest  called  Pu  Daishi,  who  lived  in  the 
6th  century.    That  at  Asakusa  is  of  red 
lacquer  on  a  black  lacquer  base  and  stone 
lotus-shaped  pedestal.    'I'he  ceiling  of  the 
small  building  containing  it  has  repre- 
sentations of  clouds   and    angels.     The 
images  in  front,  on  entering,  represent  Fu 
Daishi  with  his  sons.    Those  trampling 
on  demons  are  the  Shi  Tenno,  and  the 
life-size  gilt  figure  is  Shaka.    The  books, 
which  were  brought  from  China  early  in 
the  13th  century,  are  aired  every  year  at 
the  autumn  equinox,  but  are  not  shown 
at  other  times.    The  custodian,  in  return 
for  a  small  gratuity,  will  allow  visitors  to 
make  the  library  revolve. 

The  Pagoda  close  by  is  no 
longer  op^n  to  visitors. 

Adjacent  to  the  temple  enclosure 
we  find  the  Asakusa  Koenchi,  or 
public  grounds,  where  stands 
the  lofty  tower,  properly  called 
Rywin-kaka,  and  more  popularly, 
Jur-ni-kai.  This  building,  erected 
in  1890,  has  twelve  storeys,  as 
its  popular  name  implies,  is  820 
ft.  in  height,  50  ft.  in  internal  dia- 


meter at  the  base,  is  ascended  as 
far  as  the  eighth  story  in  an 
elevator  worked  by  electricity,  and 
commands  a  more  extensive  view 
than  any  other  point  in  the  city. 

The  grounds  of  Asakusa  are  the 
quaintest  and  liveliest  place  in 
Tokyo.  Here  are  raree-shows, 
penny  gaffs,  performing  monkeys, 
cheap  photographers,  street  artists, 
jugglers,  wrestlers,  life-sized  figures 
in  clay,  vendors  of  toys  and  lolly- 
pops  of  every  sort,  and,  circulating 
amidst  all  these  cheap  attractions, 
a  seething  crowd  of  busy  holiday- 
makers. 

About  1  m.  to  the  North  of  Asa- 
kusa is*  the  celebrated  Yoshitoara, 
the  abode  of  frail  beauties. 

On  the  other  side  of  Azuma-bashi, 
the  finest  bridge  in  Tokyo,  is  the 
garden  of  the  former  Satake  Tashi- 
ki,  one  of  the  best  specimens  of  the 
Japanese  style  of  gardening.  It 
contains  an  excellent  tea-house.  A 
little  further  on  is 

Mukojima,  celebrated  for  its 
avenue  of  cherry-trees,  which 
stretches  for  more  than  a  mile 
along  the  1.  bank  of  the  Sumi- 
da-gawa.  When  the  blossoms 
are  out  in  April,  Mukojima  is 
densely  crowded  with  holiday- 
makers  from  mom  till  dusk,  and 
the  tea-houses  on  the  banks  and 
the  boats  on  the  river  re-echo  with 
music  and  merriment.  This  sight, 
which  lasts  for  about  a  week,  should 
on  no  account  be  missed.  The  little 
temple  at  the  end  of  the  avenue 
was  raised  in  remembrance  of  a 
touching  story  of  the  10th  century, 
which  forms  the  subject  of  a 
famous  lyric  drama. 

Umewaka,  the  child  of  a  noble  family, 
was  carried  off  from  Kyoto  by  a  slave- 
merchant,  and  perished  in  this  distant 
spot,  where  his  body  was  found  by  a 
good  priest  who  gave  it  burial.  The  next 
year,  his  mother,  who  had  roamed  over  the 
country  in  search  of  her  boy,  came  to  the 
place,  where,  under  a  willow-tree,  the 
villagers  were  weeping  over  a  lowly  grave. 
On  asking  the  name  of  the  dead,  she 
discovered  that  it  was  none  other  than 


88 


EoiUe  4, — Tokyo, 


her  own  son,  who  during^  the  night  ap> 
peared  in  ghostly  form,  and  held  converse 
with  her ;  but  wnen  day  dawned,  nothing 
remained  bat  the  waving  branches  of  the 
willow,  and  instead  of  nis  voice  only  the 
sighing  of  the  breeze.  A  commemorative 
service  is  still  held  on  the  16th  March ;  and 
if  it  rains  on  that  day,  the  people  say  the 
rain-drops  are  Umewaka's  tears. 

Another  favourite  flower  resort 
lying  some  little  way  beyond 
Makojima,  is  Horikiri,  famed  for  its 
irises  which  bloom  in  June.  The 
excursion  is  a  pleasant  one  at  that 
time  of  the  year. 

7. — Eko-in.    The  Five  Hundred 

Kakan.    Eambido.    Distbict  of 

Ptjkaoawa.    Susakt.      , 

Crossing  Bydgoku-bashi,  one  of 
the  largest  bridges  in  the  metro- 
polis spanning  the  Sumida-gawa, 
we  reach  the  noted  Buddhist  tem- 
ple of  Eko-in. 

In  the  spring  of  1857,  on  the  occasion  of 
a  terrible  conflagration  which  lasted  for 
two  detys  and  nights,  107,046  persons  are 
said  to  have  perished  in  the  flames.  The 
Government  undertook  the  care  of  their 
interment,  and  orders  were  given  to  Dan- 
saemon,  the  chief  of  the  pariahs,*  to 
convey  the  bodies  to  Ushijima,  as  this 
part  of  Yedo  was  then  called,  and  dig  for 
them  a  common  pit.  Priests  from  all 
the    different    Buddhist   sects   came  to- 

f ether  to  recite  for  the  space  of  seven 
ays  a  thousand  scrolls  of  the  sacred  books 
for  the  benefit  of  the  souls  of  the  departed. 
The  grave  was  called  Muenzuka,  or  '  the 
Mound  of  Destitution,'  and  the  temple 
which  was  built  near  it  is,  therefore,  also 
popularly  entitled  Muenji.  Ek5-in  being, 
on  account  of  its  peculiar  origin,  without 
the  usual  means  of  support  derived  from 
the  gifts  of  the  relatives  of  the  dead,  was 
formerly  used  as  the  pla^e  whither  SEbcred 
images  were  brought  from  other  provinces 
to  be  worshipped  for  a  time  by  the  people 
of  Yedo,  and  as  a  scene  of  public  perfor- 
mances. The  latter  custom  still  survives 
in  the  wrestling-matches  and  other 
shows,  which  draw  great  crowds  here 
every  spring  and  winter. 

Eko-in  might  well  be  taken  as  a 

*  In  Japanese,  Eta.  Their  occupations 
were  to  slaughter  animals,  tan  leather, 
assist  at  executions,  &o.  The  class  as 
such  is  now  abolished ;  but  remnants  of 
its  peculiar  costume  may  still  occasionaUy 
be  seen  in  the  persons  of  young  girls  with 
broad  hats,  who  go  about  the  streets  play- 
ing  and  singing. 


text  by  those  who  denounce 
'  heathen  *  temples.  Dirty,  gaudy, 
full  of  semi-defaced  imaees,  the 
walls  plastered  with  advertise^ 
ments,  the  altar  guarded  by  two- 
hideous  red  monsters,  childrezi 
scampering  in  and  out,  wrestlers 
stamping,  crowds  shouting— the 
place  lacks  even  the  semblaiice  of 
sanctity.  In  a  small  arched  en« 
closure  behind  the  temple,  is  the 
grave  of  the  celebrated  highway- 
man Nezumi  Kozo,  where  incense 
is  always  kept  burning.  The  oeme* 
tery  at  the  back  contains  monu. 
ments  to  those  who  perished  in 
the  great  fire  of  1657,  and  in  the 
great  earthquake  of  1855. 

In  Honjo,  Midori-cho,  about  X 
mile  further  on,  is  a  temple  con- 
taining painted  images,  almost  life- 
size,  of  the  Five  Hundred  Bakan, 
(Oo-hydku  JSoJban),  seated  on  shelves 
reaching  from  the  bare  earth  of 
the  floor  to  the  rafters  of  the  roof. 
They  are  from  the  chisel  of  Shoun, 
an  artist  of  the  17th  century.  On 
some  of  them  are  pasted  slips  of 
paper  with  their  names.  The 
much  larger  image  in  the  centre 
represents  Shaka,  with  Anan  on 
his  r.  hand  and  Kasho  on  his  1. 
The  white  image  in  front  of  Shaka 
is  Kwannon.  The  temple  also 
contains  a  hundred  small  images 
of  Kwannon.  The  present  edifice 
dates  only  from  1889,  when  the 
images  were  removed  from  an  older 
building  in  the  district  of  Fukagawa, 
which  had  fallen  into  decay. 

Not  far  off  stands  the  Shinto 
Temple  of  Temmangu,  commonly 
known  as  Kameido,  from  a  stone 
tortoise  seated  on  a  well  in  the 
grounds.  Sugawara  no  Miehizane 
is  here  worshipped  under  the  title 
of  Temman  Baijizai,  i.e.,  *  the  Per- 
fectly Free  and  Heaven-Pilling 
Heavenly  Divinity.'  The  temple 
grounds  have  been  laid  out  in 
imitation  of  those  at  Dazaifu,  the 
place  of  his  exile.  Passing  in 
through  the  outer  gate,  the  eye  is 


Kameido.     Joshinji.     Stisaki  no  Benten, 


89 


first  attracted  hj  the  wigtarias 
trained  on  trellis,  whose  blossoms 
during  the  last  week  of  April  make 
Kameido  one  of  the  chief  show- 
places  of  Tokyo.  They  grow  on  the 
borders  of  a  pond  called  8hinji-no 
lie,  or  'the  Pond  of  the  Word 
Heart,'  on  account  of  a  supposed 
resemblance  to  i|>,  the  Chinese 
character  for  *  heart ; '  and  one  of 
the  amusements  of  the  visitors  is  to 
feed  the  carp  and  tortoises  which 
it  contains.  A  semicircular  bridge 
leads  over  the  pond  to  a  large  gate 
in  Fa^n^-tnune-sidburi  (that  is,  eight- 
roofed  style),  standing  in  front  of 
the  temple.  Glass  cases  inside  the 
gate  contain  the  usual  large 
images  of  Zuijin.  Round  the  walls 
of  the  temple,  hang  small  pictures 
on  a  gold  ground  of  the  ancient 
religious  dances  called  BiLgdku. 

Beyond  a  shed  containing  two 
life-size  images  of  sacred  ponies,  is 
an  exit  by  which  the  visitor  can 
reach  the  Ume-ycLshiki,  or  Plum- 
Garden  of  Kameido,  4  cho  distant. 
It  is  known  as  Ghvaryohai  (lit.  the 
Plum-trees  of  the  Recumbent  Dra- 
gon), and  is  a  g^reat  show-place 
early  in  March,  when  the  blossoms 
are  all  out.  There  are  over  500 
trees,  all  extremely  old  and  partly 
creeping  along  the  ground,  whence 
the  name.  Most  of  the  cut  stones 
which  stand  about  the  grounds  are 
inscribed  with  stanzas  of  poetry  in 
praise  of  the  flowers ;  and  during 
the  season  similar  tributes,  written 
on  paper,  will  be  seen  hung  up 
on  the  branches.  A  few  eho 
from  here  liesMukojima  (see  p.  87). 

The  S.E.  part  of  Tokyo,  con- 
sisting of  the  district  of  Fukagawa 
on  the  1.  bank  of  the  Sumida-gawa, 
is  a  maze  of  narrow  streets,  chiefly 
inhabited  by  the  lower  trading  and 
artisan  classes,  and  contains  little 
for  the  sightseer. 

Joshinji,  though  the  chief  temple 
of  the  Nichiren  sect  in  Tokyo,  is 
quite  unpretentious,  but  there  are 
some  good  carvings  on  the  gates 


of  the  priests*  dwellings  which 
line  the  narrow  street  leading 
up  to  it.  In  the  court-yard  is  a 
large  bronze  image  of  Shaka  sup- 
ported on  the  shoulders  of  stone 
demons ;  and  to  the  back,  beyond 
the  cemetery,  a  curious  supersti- 
tious practice  may  be  witnessed 
at  the  shrine  of  Shogyo  Bosatsu. 
The  stone  image  of  the  saint  stands 
in  a  little  wooden  shed  hung  round 
with  small  regularly  cut  bundles 
of  straw.  The  faithful  buy  these 
at  the  gate,  dip  them  in  water,, 
brush  the  idol  with  them,  and 
then  ladle  water  over  his  head, 
believing  that  this  ceremony  will 
ensure  a  favourable  reply  to 
their  petitions.  The  image  is  con- 
stantly wet,  showing  how  firm  the 
belief  is.  The  priests  of  the  sect 
are  unable  to  account  for  the 
origin  of  the  usage. 

The  Shinto  temple  of  Hctckiman, 
which  dates  from  A.D.  1668,  is 
handsome,  owing  to  former  Bud- 
dhist influence.  The  walls  and  ceil- 
ing are  decorated  with  paintings 
of  birds  and  flowers,  and  there  are 
also  some  pretty  wood  carvings. 
The  ornamentation  of  the  chancel 
is  extremely  rich,  the  ceiling  be- 
ing panelled,  and  .gold  profusely 
scattered  about.  There  are  like- 
wise gold  lions,  and  gold  figures 
of  the  Sun-Goddess  Amaterasu 
and  of  the  Gods  of  JCasuga.  Doves 
fiy  about  the  grounds,  as  is 
usual  in  temples  dedicated  to 
Hachiman.  They  are  supposed  to 
act  as  the  god's  messengers, — 
strange  messengers  from  the  God 
ofWarl 

The  district  situated  between  the 
temple  of  Hachiman  and  that  of  • 
Susaki-no-Benten  is  noted  for  its 
trade  in  timber,  the  town  being 
here  intersected  by  numerous 
canals  communicating  with  the 
Okawa,  down  which  come  the 
tiniber-laden  rafts  from  the  inland 
provinces.  The  temple  of  SusaH 
no    Benien     (Susaju     being     the 


90 


Route  4. — Tokyo. 


name  of  the  projecting  point 
of  land  on  which  it  is  situated) 
dates  from  the  latter  part  of  the 
17th  century,  at  which  time  the 
ground  on  which  it  was  erected  had 
only  recently  been  reclaimed.  The 
temple  itself  is  uninteresting ;  but 
on  a  clear  day  the  view  from  a  little 
stage  built  up  in  the  grounds  will 
repa^V  a  slight  detour  if  the  traveller 
happens  to  be  in  the  neighbour- 
hood. It  is  seen  to  still  better 
advantage  by  walking  along  the 
embankment  built  after  the  ravages 
of  the  inundations  and  tidal  wav*-8 
of  the  eighth  decade  of  the  last 
century.  Beyond  the  wide  sweep 
of  sea  in  front,  stretches  1.  in  the 
blue  distance  the  coast  line  of 
Shimosa,  while  nearer  to  the  spec- 
tator are  the  mountains  of  Kazusa 
and  Boshu,  Nokogiri-yama  being 
most  conspicuous  both  in  height 
and  outline.  To  the  r.  towers 
Mt.  Fuji,  Ranked  on  either  side 
by  the  Oyama  and  Hakone 
ranges,  while  far  away  to  the  North 
rises  double-peaked  Mt.  Tsukuba 
from  the  midst  of  the  plain.  At 
low  tide,  which  the  Japanese  con- 
sider the  prettiest  time,  and  espe- 
cially if.  the  season  be  spring, 
numerous  pleasure  boats,  with  sing- 
ing-girls and  other  merry-makers, 
will  be  seen  lazily  floating  about  m 
the  offing,  watching  the  oyster- 
catchers  ply  their  trade. 

8. — TsuKiji. 

On  the  way  from  the  Shimbashi 
Terminus  to  the  Foreign  Conces- 
sion in  Tsukiji,  several  important 
modern  buildings  are  passed  : — ^1. 
the  Fifteenth  National  Bank,  r.  the 
Imperial  Department  of  Communi- 
cations, and'further  on  r.  the  Cen- 
tral Telegraph  Office  and  the  huge 
Patent  Office,  opposite  to  which 
is  the  Seiyoken  Hotel.  Behind 
the  latter  stands  the  KcibuJci-zay 
one  of  the  best  theatres  of  the 
metropolis.  The  Naval  Academy 
is  seen  to  the  r.  beyond  the  canal. 


Still  further  to  the  r.  is  the 
Enryd-kwan,  formerly  the  summer 
palace  of  the  Shoguns,  and  used  in 
more  recent  times  as  a  place  of 
entertainment  for  illustrious  visi- 
tors. The  Duke  of  Edinburgh, 
General  Grant,  and  Princes  Albert 
Victor  and  George  of  Wales  are 
amongst  the  personages  who  have 
received  hospitality  within  its 
walls.  The  Enryo-kwan  is  also 
used  once  a  year  for  an  Imperial 
Garden  party,  at  the  season  when 
the  masses  of  double  cherry-flowers 
are  in  bloom.  The  place  is  unfor- 
tunately not  open  to  the  general 
public. 

The  enormous  tiled  roof  to  the 
1.  is  that  of  the 

Nishi  Hongwanji  temple,  popular- 
ly called  the  Tsukiji  Monzeki. 
Originally  founded  in  1658,  and 
destroyed  by  fire  in  1872,  this 
.  temple  was  rebuilt  in  1880.  It 
was  the  first  example  of  the 
partial  adaptation  of  European 
architectural  principles  to  a  build- 
ing essentially  Japanese.  With 
the  exception  of  the  brick  walls 
and  the  common  glass  windows, 
it  is  almost  a  replica  of  the 
Higashi  Hongwanji  at  Asakusa. 
The  smaller  edifice  to  the  1.  is  a 
hall  where  sermons  are  preached. 

A  large  proportion  of  the 
buildings  in  the  Foreign  Conces- 
sion is  devoted  to  rehgious  and 
educational  purposes,  testifying 
to  the  zeal  of  the  various  mission- 
ary bodies,  whose  members  form 
the  bulk  of  the  population.  The 
most  striking  places  of  worship  are 
the  Cathedral  of  the  Protestant 
Episcopal  Church  of  America  and 
the  Eoman  Catholic  Cathedral. 
Another  conspicuous  building  is 
the  Club  Hotel,  formerly  the  Ame- 
rican Legation,  situated  on  the 
Bund  facing  the  Sumida-gawa 
near  its  mouth.  Beyond  the  river 
lies  Ishikawa-jima,  where  stands 
the  convict  prison.  The  land 
is  gaining  rapidly  on  the  water 
in  this  district,  the  whole  spit  op- 


Route  5, — Excursions  from  Toyko* 


91 


posite  the  Bund  having  been  re- 
claimed within  the  last  fifteen 
years.  The  view  across  the  water 
on  a  fine  day  is  very  pretty. 


ROUTE  5. 

Excursions  prom  Tokyo. 

1.  meguro  and  yijtenji.  2.  ike- 
gami.  3.  futago  and  mariko. 
4.  cormorant-fishing  on  the 
tamagawa.  5.  juniso,  hori-no- 
uchi,  and  i-no-kashira.    6.  ko- 

QANEI.      7.  TAEAO-ZAN  v'ld  HACHI- 

oji.    8.  oji.   9.  the  cave-dwbll- 
ings  near  konosu.  10.  konodai. 

1. — Meguro, 

Me^nro  {Tea-houses,  *  Uchida, 
Hashiwa-ya;  there  are  several 
others,  but  they  are  apt  to  be 
noisy),  is  a  favourite  picnic  resort, 
3  m.  out  of  the  city  westwards  by 
road  or  Suburban  Railway;  but  the 
station  is  about  a  mile  from  the 
village.  Shortly  after  leaving  the 
station  at  the  top  of  a  descent 
called  Gyonin-zaka,  is  1.  the  small 
temple  of  Daienji,  which  deserves 
passing  notice  for  the  sake  of  the 
Go-hyaku  Bakan, — ^tier  upon  tier 
of  small  seated  images  of  Bud- 
dhas  in  various  attitudes  of  lAedi- 
tation,  quaint  yet  pathetic  in  their 
stony  stillness.  Meguro  is  seen  to 
best  advantage  when  either  the 
peonies  or  the  chrysanthemums 
are  in  blossom.  There  are  two 
permanent  sights — ^the  temple  of 
Fudo,  and  the  graves  of  Gompachi 
and  Komurasaki.  The  key  to  the 
latter  is  kept  at  the  tea-house. 
The  grave  is  called  Hiyohirzuka, 
after  the  hiyoku  a  fabulous  d|(>uble 
bird  which  is  an  emblem  of  con- 
stancy in  love.  It  may  be  added 
that  sentiment  is  the  only  motive 


for  visiting  the   grave,  as  there  is 
really  nothing  to  see. 

About  260  years  ago,  there  lived  a  young 
man  called  Shirai  Gompachi,  who  at  the 
age  of  sixteen  had  already  won  a  name  for 
his  skill  in  the  use  of  arms,  but,  having  had 
the  misfortune  to  kill  a  fellow-clansman 
in  a  quarrel  over  a  dog,  was  compelled  to 
fly  from  his  native  province.  While  rest- 
ing in  an  inn,  on  his  way  to  Yedo,  a  beau- 
tiful girl  came  and  awoke  him  at  midnight, 
to  tell  him  that  a  band  of  robbers,  who 
had  stolen  her  from  her  home,  intended 
to  kill  him  for  the  sake  of  the  sword 
which  every  Samurai,  at  that  time,  carried. 
Being  thus  forewarned,  Gompachi  suc- 
ceeded in  slaying  all  the  thieves  when  the 
attack  was  made  upon  him.  He  also 
restored  Komurasaki  to  her  grateful 
father,  a  rich  merchant,  who  would  have 
been  glad  to  make  the  young  man  his 
son-in-law;  but  being  ambitious,  Gom- 
pachi insisted  on  pursuing  his  way  to 
Yedo.  Meanwhile,  unhappy  Komurasaki 
was  left  to  pine  for  the  handsome  youth 
with  whom  she  had  fallen  deeply  in  love. 
After  further  adventures,  Gompachi 
reached  Yedo,  only  however  to  fall  into 
dissolute  habits.  Hearing  much  praise  of 
a  lovely  and  accomplished  girl  who  had 
lately  become  an  inmate  of  the  Yoshi- 
wara,  Gompachi  went  to  see  her,  and  was 
astonished  to  find  in  the  famous  beauty 
no  other  than  the  maiden  whom  he  had 
but  a  few  months  before  rescued  from  the 
robbers*  den.  It  was  the  usual  pathetic 
story.  Her  parents  having  become 
poverty-stricken,  she  had  sold  herself  in 
order  to  alleviate  their  distress.  Frequent 
visits  to  his  sweetheart  soon  exhausted 
G^mpachi's  slender  means,  and  having  no 
fixed  employment,  he  was  driven  in  des- 
peration to  murder  a  man  to  procure 
money  to  take  him  to  the  Yoshiwara.  The 
crime  was  repeated,  until  he  was  caught 
red-handed,  and  ultimately  beheaded  as  a 
common  malefactor.  A  friend  claimed 
his  body  and  buried  it  at  Meguro, 
whither  poor  Komuitisaki  hastened  on 
hearing  the  sad  news  of  her  lovers  end, 
and,  throwing  herself  on  the  newly-made 
grave,  plunged  a  dagger  into  her  breast 
and  died. 

At  the  bottom  of  the  steps  lead- 
ing up  to  the  temple  of  Fudo,  is  a 
pool  fed  by  two  tiny  cascades.  To 
stand  naked  under  the  stream  of 
water  for  several  hours  in  cold 
weather  is  considered  a  meritori- 
ous penance,  the  effect  of  which  is 
to  wash  away  all  taint  of  sin. 
Tradition  says  that  Jikaku  Dai- 
shi,  the  founder  of  this  temple, 
miraculously  called  the  spring 
into  existence  by  the  aid  of  his 


92 


Boute  5. — Exciirsiom  from  Tokyo. 


mace  {iolcko)^  whence  the  name  of 
Tokko-no-takiy  or  'mace  cascade.' 
The  most  remarkable  of  the  ex- 
Yotos  is  a  huge  sword,  such  as  the 
god  Fudo  is  often  represented  with. 

To  avoid  mistakes,  it  may  here 
be  noted  that  \  ri  from  Meguro 
proper,  there  is  another  village 
called  Kami-Meguro,  At  the  latter 
also  there  is  a  good  spot  for  picnics, 
called  SMftr-Fvioi, — a  small  artificial 
hiU  from  the  top  of  which  an 
extensive  view  is  obtained.  A 
third  picnic  resort  in  this  neigh- 
bourhood is  8enxohi,  which  has  a 
pretty  piece  of  water. 

Ten  cho  W.  of  Meguro,  stands 
in  solemn  solitude  the  handsome 
temple  of  Tutenji,  founded  in  the 
early  part  of  tne  18th  century. 
The  art-treasures  of  this  temple, 
which  are  aired  {ymLshi-hotiki)  in  the 
autumn  of  every  other  year,  will 
weU  repay  a  visit.  Among  the 
most  interesting  objects,  are  some 
fine  specimens  of  old  European 
tapestry,  which  were  probably  pre- 
sented to  the  Shogun  by  the  head 
of  the  Dutch  factory  at  Nagasaki. 
At  other  times  it  is  impossible  to 
see  these  objects,  as  they  are  care- 
fully stored  away. 

2. — iKEaAUI. 

_  Ikegami  is  reached  by  train  to 
Omori  station  on  the  Yokohama 
line  ii^^  hr.,  whence  it  is  about  1  m. 
by  jinrikisha.  The  great  temple  of 
H(ymmonji  is  celebrated,  as  being 
the  place  where  the  Buddhist  saint 
Nichiren  died  in  A.D.  1282.  Its 
situation  and  magnificent  timber 
make  it  one  of  the  most  attractive 
points  within  easy  reach  of  Tokyo. 
The  best  time  to  visit  it  is  from 
the  11th  to  13th  October,  when  the 
annual  festival  in  Nichiren's  honour 
takes  place.  Another  festival  is  held 
from  the  22nd  to  28th  April.  At 
the  top  of  the  temple  steps  is  1.  the 
Daimoku-do,  where  some  of  the 
faithful  are  generally  to  be  heard 


beating  the  drum  and  reciting  the 
formulary  of  the  sect — Nanrn  nvyoho 
renge  kyo.  Next  to  this,  is  a 
temple  dedicated  to  Kato  Kiyo- 
masa.  Then  comes  the  Shaka-do, 
or  hall  dedicated  to  Shaka,  where 
worshippers  spend  the  night  at 
the  time  of  the  annual  festival, 
with,  behind  it,  another  building 
containing  a  complete  set  of  the 
Buddhist  scriptures  which  may  be 
made  to  revolve  on  a  huge  hexa- 
gonal wheel.  Fronting  the  gate  is 
the  main  temple,  recently  restored 
in  handsome  style,  an  evidence  of 
the  popularity  which  this  sect  still 
enjdys.  On  the  altar  stands  an 
exquisitely  lacquered  shrine,  con- 
taining a  life-size  image  of  Nichi- 
ren in  sitting  posture,  said  to  have 
been  carved  by  Nichiro,  one  of  his 
chief  disciples.  The  upper  part  of 
the  wall  is  painted  with  pictures  of 
angels  performing  on  musical  in- 
struments. Behind  the  altar,  out- 
side the  temple,  is  a  pictorial 
representation  of  the  chief  in- 
cidents in  the  saint's  life.  The 
extensive  buildings  at  the  rear 
are  the  residences  of  the  abbot  and 
monks.  Although  Nichiren  died 
at  Ikegami,  his  bones  were  con- 
veyed to  Minobu ;  all  that  remain 
here  are  one  tooth  and  the  ashes 
of  his  funeral  pyre.  The  shrine 
(Kotavndd)  contuning  these  relics 
is  a  short  way  down  the  hill  to  the 
1.  This  building,  about  20  ft.  in 
diameter,  stands  on  a  huge  lotus- 
fiower  of  stone.  (For  plan  of  Ike- 
gami see  p.  26). 

One  may  picnic  either  at  the  tea- 
house (*Tamba-ya)  in  the  village,  or 
(but  in  this  case  notice  must  be  sent 
the  day  before,  as  the  matter  is  more 
or  less  one  of  favour)  at  Eijuin,  a 
temple  in  the  wood  behind  the 
pagoda,  having  beautiful  plum-tree  a 
and  peonies  and  a  fine  view.  The 
imposing-looking  tomb  in  the 
temp'.e  garden  is  that  of  a  Daimyo's 
wife.  A  third  place,  inunediately 
below  the  pagoda,  is  the  immense 
tea-house  of  Akebono-ro,  popularly 


Futago,'    The  Tamagawa.     Hon-no-tichi, 


93 


tnow^n  as  Ikegami  Onsen.  It  is 
<imte  a  curiosity,  sprawling  as  it 
does,  up  and  down  two  hills  by 
means  of  galleries  and  bridges, 
which  remind  the  beholder  of 
scenes  familiar  in  Chinese  art. 
This  tea-house  is  a  favourite  native 
holiday  resort. 

3. FUTAGO  AND  MaBIKO. 

Fatag^O  (Inn,  Kame-ya),  on  the 
Tamagawa,  is  a  picnic  resort  2^  ri 
by  jinrikisha  from  Tokyo.  Just 
before  reaching  the  river,  there  is 
a  striking  view  of  Fuji  and  a 
panorama  of  the  surrounding 
country.  During  the  simimer 
months,  the  Japanese  visit  Futago 
for  the  sake  of  the  sport — if  so  it 
can  be  termed — of  watching  fisher- 
men net  the  ai,  a  kind  of  trout. 
One  ri  down  the  river  is 

Mariko,  a  place  of  similar  char- 
acter. A  pleasant  way  of  returning 
to  Tokyo  is  to  take  boat  down  the 
river  to  Kawasaki  station,  which,  is 
about  2  hrs.  from  Futago.  The 
distance 'by  the  direct  jinrikisha 
road  from  Mariko  to  Tokyo  is  2  ri 

4. — coemobant-flshing    on    the 
Tamagawa. 

This  curious  method  of  catching 
fish  may  be  seen  at  the  ferry  of 
Sekido  on  the  Tamagawa.  The 
best  way  of  reaching  Sekido  is  to 
take  train  from  Shimbashi  or  Shin- 
jiku  to  Kokubunji  (1^  hr.),  a  small 
village  on  the  Hachioji  Railway, 
whence  jinrikishas  may  be  obtain- 
ed to  Sekido,  li  ri,  passing  through 
Fuchu,  (Inn,  Naka-ya),  a  thriving 
little  town  situated  on  what  was 
the  old  highway  before  the  in- 
troduction of  railways.  Two  cor- 
morants are  usually  kept  at  the 
ferry-house  at  Sekido,  and  fisher- 
men with  these  birds  may  be  enr 
gaged  at  a  cost  of  $1.50  per  diem. 
If  more  birds  are  wanted,  notice 
ahould  be  given  to  the  fishermen  a 


day  in  advance.  The  cormorants 
are  held  by  strings  kept  in  the 
hands  of  the  men,  who  wade  about 
and  relieve  them  of  their  prey.  A 
fair  quantity  of  small  fish  may 
generally  be  reckoned  on.  Instead 
of  returning  to  Kokubunji,  the 
excursion  may  be  varied  by  diver- 
ging at  Fuchu  for  Sakai  station,  1  ri 
longer  by  road,  but  3  m.  nearer  to 
Tokyo  by  raU. 

5. — JuNiso,  HoRi-NO-ucHi,   Omita 
Hachiman,  and  I-no-kashiba. 

Jniiiso.  Train  to  Shinjiku  sta- 
tion on  the  Suburban  Line,  or  jin- 
rikisha all  the  way.  Crossing  the 
railway,  and  proceeding  along  the 
Ome  Kaido  for  10  min.,  the  path 
to  Juniso  turns  1.  through  the 
fields,  and  in  10  min.  more  a  short 
avenue  of  pines  is  reached,  leading 
to  the  small  and  deserted  temple 
of  Juniso  Gongen.  Below  the 
temple  lies  a  small  lake,  plentifully 
supplied  with  a  species  of  carp. 
Several  tea-sheds  stand  at  the 
upper  end.  Juniso  is  a  favourite 
spot  for  picnics  during  the  sum- 
mer months. 

Hori-no-iichi  may  be  reached  in 
f  hr.  from  Juniso.  A  lane  directly 
behind  the  tea-sheds  soon  rejoins 
the  Ome  Kaido,  along  which  we 
proceed  for  i  hr.,  to  leave  it  again 
by  a  path  1.,  at  the  corner  of  which 
is  a  pretty  plum  orchard.  A  short 
distance  beyond,  the  path  turns 
sharp  r.,  where  a  stone  indicates  the 
distance  to  Hori-no-uchi  as  16  cho. 
The  road  is  lined  with  shops  for  the 
sale  of  rosaries,  salted  plums,  toys, 
etc.  The  temple  of  Myohdji  at 
Hori-no-uchi,  belonging  to  the 
Nichiren  sect,  merits  a  visit 
for  the  sake  of  the  excellent  car- 
vings which  adorn  the  main  build- 
ing, those  of  dragons  in  the  porch, 
below  the  architrave,  and  in  the 
eaves  being  especially  spirited. 
The  iron  gates  and  railing  to  the 
r.  of  the  main  entrance  are  good 
specimens  of  modern  workmanship. 


94 


Route  5, — Excursions  from  Tokyo. 


On  the  1.  of  the  court,  is  a  long 
shed  full  of  a  curious  collection 
of  ez-Totos,  such  as  the  queues 
of  men  whose  prayers  have  been 
granted  by  the  interposition  of 
Nichiren,  oil-paintings,  etc.  In 
the  main  hall,  a  splendid  shrine  5 
ft.  square  and  10  ft.  long,  covered 
with  gilt  carvings,  occupies  the 
centre  of  the  further  side  of  the 
chancel.  It  contains  a  seated 
image  of  Nichiren,  said  to  be  the 
earliest  efSgy  of  the  saint,  and  to 
have  been  carved  in  1261.  It  can 
be  seen  on  payment  of  a  small  fee. 
The  principal  festival  is  held  on  the 
13th  October,  the  anniversary  of 
Nichiren's  death. 

Half  a  Ti  further_on,  is  the  once 
notable  temple  of  Omiya  Hachinum, 
founded  in  the  10th  century,  but 
now  completely  abandoned  and 
.  falling  into  decay.  A  broad  and 
stately  avenue  of  cryptomerias  and 
maple-trees,  and  several  torii,  attest 
its  former  importance. 

Proceeding  through  the  flat 
fields  for  3i  m.  further,  we  reach 
the  temple  of  Benten,  picturesquely 
situated  on  the  borders  of  the  small 
lake  of  I-no-kashira,  whose  waters, 
derived  trom  seven  small  springs, 
supply  the  aqueduct  leading  to 
Kanda  in  Tokyo. 

History  says  that  in  100B  the  lake  was 
visited  by  leyaau,  who  found  the  water 
BO  excellent  that  it  was  used  ever  after 
for  making  His  Hi^hness's  tea.  In 
16.39,  his  grandson,  the  Bhognn  lemitsu, 
gave  orders  for  the  water  to  be  laid  on  to 
the  Castle  in  Yedo.  He  also,  on  the  occa- 
sion of  a  visit  to  the  lake,  carved  with  the 
small  knife  from  his  dirk  the  head  of  a 
wild  boar  {i-no-kaghira)  on  the  trunk  of  a 
tree  close  by,  whence  the  present  name. 
It  was  not,  however,  till  about  1653  that 
the  aqueduct  was  constructed. 

I-no-kashira  attracts  visitors 
chiefly  in  May,  when  the  azaleas 
are  out.  At  other  seasons,  it  is 
quite  neglected. 

The  best  wa^to  return  to  Tokyo 
is  to  join  the  5me  Kaido,  40  min., 
whence  it  is  about  2  ri  to  Shinjiku 
station.  After  bad  weather  the 
roads  are  heavy  throughout.. 


6. — KOOANEI. 

Koganei,  with  its  fine  avenue  of 
cherry-trees  2^  m.  in  length  along 
the  banks  of  the  small  canal  that 
conducts  the  waters  of  the  Tama- 
gawa  to  T6ky6,  is  about  1^  ri  beyond 
I-no-kcuhira,  but  should  only  be  visit- 
ed when  the  trees  are  in  blossom. 
It  is  most  easily  reached  by  train 
to  Sakai  on   the   Hachioji  Hne,  \ 
hr.  from  Shinjiku   Junction,   and 
some   15   min.    distant    from   the 
avenue.  Ten  thousand  young  trees 
were    brought    from    Yoshino    in 
Yamato,  and  from  the  banks  of  the 
Sakura-gawa  in  Hitachi,  and  plant- 
ed  here  in  1735  by  command  of  the 
Sh5gun  Ybshimune. 

The  crowds  that  assemble  daily 
to  picnic  under  the  shade  of  the 
pink  and  white  blossoms  about  the 
middle  of  April,  present  a  spectacle 
that  should  not  be  missed  by  visi- 
tors to  Tokyo  at  that  time  of  year. 

Instead  of  returning  to  Sakai,  it 
will  be  found  shorter  to  walk  on 
to  Kokuhwnji  station,  which  is  only 
about  20  min.  from  the  upper 
end  of  the  avenue. 

7. — Bt    the    Shinjiku  -  Hachioji 
Railway  to  Takao^zan. 


§    2 

Q      OD 


3  m. 
10 
13 
IT 


19 
28 


Names 

of 
Stations. 


SHINJIKU  Jet 
Nakano. 


Sakai 


Kokubunji. 
Tachikawa. 


Hino. 

hachi5ji. 


Remarks. 


Alight  for  cherry 
avenue  of  Ko- 
ganei. 

Alight  for  Tajna- 
gawa  Valley, 
Route  10. 


This  is  a  favourite  excursion  ii 
spring  and  autumn  with  holiday 
makers  from  Tokyo.  The  railway 
journey  toHachidji  occupies  1^  hr. 
whence  it  is  2  ri  along  the  plain  t< 


Takao'zan,     OJL 


95 


the  foot  of  Takao-zan.  Jinrikishas 
and  carriages  traverse  this  distance 
in  about  1  hr.  The  ascent  of  the 
mountain  is  an  easy  40  min.  walk. 

The  railway  track,  after  leaving 
Shinjiku,  lies  for  a  short  distance 
close  to  the  florists'  gardens  of 
Okubo,  noted  for  their  azaleas,  the 
rest  of  the  route  passing  mostly 
through  a  flat  couhtry  with  a  heavy, 
clayey  soil.  The  Tamagawa  and 
one  of  its  affluents  are  crossed 
"before  reaching 

Hachioji  (Inn,  Kado-ya),  the 
centre  of  an  important  silk  district, 
but  otherwise  uninteresting.  One 
long  and  wide  street  forms  the 
business  part  of  the  town.  A  few 
minutes  may  be  spent  in  visiting 
the  bazaar  (Kioankdha),  which  has 
been  opened  near  the  station. 

A  short  distance  beyond  the 
village  of  Komagino,  the  path  lead- 
ing up  Takao-zan  turns  off  r.  from 
the  main  road,  and  crosses  the 
stream. 

Takao-zan  is  a  mountain  rising 
about  1,600  ft.  above  the  sea.  On  the 
summit  stands  a  much  frequented 
temple,  surrounded  by  a  splendid 
grove,  chiefly  of  cryptomerias, 
which  were  planted  in  past  times  by 
devotees  of  the  temple.  The  road 
is  lined  with  posts  on  which  are 
recorded  the  names  of  persons  who 
have  presented  young  trees,  so  many 
hundreds  at  a  time,  with  the  object 
of  maintaining  the  grove  undimi- 
nished. On  the  platform  at  the  top 
of  the  ascent,  stands  a  flne  bronze 
pagoda,  12  ft.  in  height.  Above 
this,  on  another  terrace,  are  three 
shrines  dedicated  to  Fudo,  Yakushi, 
and  Dainichi,  and  at  the  top  of  a 
long  flight  of  steps  is  a  gaudily 
decorated  Shinto  shrine  with  paint- 
ed carvings.  The  trees  shut  out 
the  view  from  this  point ;  but  lower 
down  a  space  has  been  cleared, 
from  which  the  eye  ranges  over 
the  plain  of  Tokyo  and  the  sea  in 
the  distance.  A  narrower  and 
steeper  path  than  that  ascended, 
may  be  taken  on  the  way  down^ 


and  affords  pretty  glimpses  of  the 
densely  wooded  vaUey. 

8.—  Oji. 

_  Oji.— The  pretty  Httle  village  of 
Oji,  formerly  one  of  the  most  en- 
joyable retreats  in  the  suburbs  of 
Tokyo,  now  presents  more  the 
aspect  of  a  manufacturing  centre 
than  of  a  holiday  resort.  Huge 
brick  buildings,  paper  and  cotton 
mills,  the  clash  of  machinery,  and 
lofty  chimneys  from  which  columns 
of  smoke  sweep  over  the  cherry- 
trees  on  Asuka-yama,  deprive  the 
place  of  much  of  its  old  tranquil- 
lity and  beauty.  Oji  is,  neverthe- 
less, still  one  of  the  attractions 
in  the  environs  of  the  great  city, 
and  crowds  flock  there  twice  a 
year, — in  spring  when  the  cherry- 
trees  are  in  blossom,  and  in 
autumn  when  the  maples  which 
line  the  banks  of  the  Taki-no-gawa 
put  on  their  crimson  tints. 

The  train  from  Ueno  station 
lands  one  in  a  few  minutes  close  to 
the  excellent  tea-houses,  Ogi-ya 
and  Ebi-ya,  which  stand  together 
on  the  edge  of  the  stream  and  look 
(Jut  on  a  small  but  tastefully 
arranged  garden.  Half  a  mile  be- 
yond the  tea-houses,  in  a  grove  of 
evergreen  oaks  on  the  top  of  a 
slight  eminence,  stands  the  temple 
of  Inari.  The  buildings  consist  of 
a  rather  dilapidated  oratory  and 
chapel.  In  the  court-yard  are 
some  fine  old  cherry-trees.  The 
temple  and  little  waterfall  dedi- 
cated to  Fud6,  also  in  the  vicinity 
of  the  tea-houses,  attract  many 
visitors.  As  the  trains  are  gene- 
rally full  to  overflowing  during 
the  cherry  and  maple  seasons,  some 
visitors  may  prefer  to  go  out  by 
road.  The  prettiest  way,  5  m., 
leaves  the  little  lake  at  Ueno, 
and  passing  through  the  suburb 
of  Shimo  Komagome,  turns  to  the 
r.  on  reaching  the  tomb  of  the 
Daimyo  of  Kaga,  descends  the  hill, 
and  follows  up  the  valley  to  the  1. 


96 


Route  6. — Excursions  from  Tokyo, 


9. — The  Cave-dwellings  (Hyahur 
Ana)  NEAB  KoNOSU. 

These  caves,  amongst  the  most 
perfect  specimens  of  troglodytic 
dwellings  in  Japan,  are  situated  in 
Kita  Toshimi-mura  in  the  prefec- 
ture of  Saitama,  and  are  within 
the  limits  of  a  day's  excursion  from 
Tokyo.  Konosu  is  reached  in  1^  hr. 
by  train  from  TJeno  station.  The 
road  to  Kita  Yoshimi-mura,  2^ 
ri  distant,  crosses  the  railway 
line  not  far  from  the  station, 
and  runs  over  the  plain  straight 
towards  the  Chichibu  mountains. 
It  is  a  level  jinrikisha  road,  but  apt, 
in  parts,  to  be  heavy  after  rain. 
Kita  Yoshimi-mura  nestles  under 
the  first  hilly  ground  met  with  on 
the  road.  At  the  further  end  of 
the  village,  and  before  coining  to  a 
suspension  bridge  over  a  small 
stream,  the  path  to  the  caves  turns 
r.,  and  the  cave-dwellings,  present- 
ing the  appearance  of  a  gigantic 
beehive,  are  seen  in  front.  On  the 
way,  a  quaint  old  temple  of  Kwan- 
non,  worthy  of  a  few  minutes* 
attention,  is  passed.  It  is  wedged 
in  between  rocks,  from  the  inner 
side  of  which  an  entrance  leads  to 
a  chamber  containing  a  number  of 
stone  images  of  Kwannon.  The 
mouth  of  the  chamber,  with  the 
images  within,  is  seen  from  the 
road.  A  few  yards  beyond  lie 
the  caves,  where  the  local  au- 
thorities, by  whom  the  place  is 
now  maintained,  have  established 
an  office,  whose  occupants  act  as 
guides  and  point  out  the  parts  best 
worth  inspection.  The  whole  hill- 
side is  honeycombed  with  these 
strange  relics  of  a  remote  antiquity, 
which  are  believed  to  have  been 
once  inhabited  by  the  beings  whom 
the  Japanese  term  '  earth-spiders.' 

The  original  Japanese  word  is  tsuchi- 
gumo.  There  is  considerable  doubt  as  to 
its  etymology,  though  every  one  agrees  in 
interpreting  it  to  mean  a  race  of  cave- 
dwelling  savages,  Motoori,  the  greatest  of 
all  Japanese  literati,  explains  the  name 
by  a  comparison  of  the  habits  of  the  race 
in  question  to  those  of  the  spider.    But  it 


is  surely  more  rational  to  regard  the  "wch^ 
if »McAt-^«  wo  as  a  ci  »rruption  of  f  »«cAt-^o»«ori, 
'  earth- Ai<i«r»,'  than  which  no  name  could, 
be  more  appropriate  to  troglodytes. 
These  people,  who  were  widely  spread  over 
Japan  in  prehistoric  times,  were  probably 
the  ancestors  of  the  modem  Ainos.  One 
of  the  earliest  Japanese  histories  describes 
them  as  '  short  in  stature,  and  having- 
long  arms  and  legs  like  pigmies.'  Jimmu. 
Tenno  is  said  to  have  massacred  a  number 
of  them  in  one  of  their  caves. 

The  caves  are  said  to  number 
two  hundred  and  thirty- seven 
iii  all ;  but  the  majority  of  them, 
were  only  discovered  some  three 
years  ago  by  the  researches  of  Mr. 
Tsuboi,  of  the  Imperial  University 
of  Japan,  an  energetic  archseologist. 
Most  of  the  caves  face  due  S.  The 
entrance  to  each  is  about  3  ft. 
square ;  then  comes  a  passage  of  6 
ft.  and  upwards  in  length,  leading 
to  a  second  doorway  within  which 
are  the  chambers.  These  are  of 
various  sizes,  many  being  about  6 
ft.  square,  and  from  5  to  6  ft.  high. 
The  ceilings  are  dome-shaped. 
Each  chamber  contains  one  or  two 
ledges,  probably  for  sleeping  pur- 
poses, and  with  slightly  raised 
edges  to  prevent  the  occupant  from 
rolling  out.  Some  are  quite  small,  as 
if  meant  for  children.  Traces  of  the 
use  of  tools  are  visible  on  the  walls. 
Iron  rings,  arrow-heads,  etc.,  have 
been  found  in  some  of  the  caves  ; 
but  the  presence  of  these  is  doubt- 
less due  to  the  fact,  as  local  tradi- 
tion asserts,  that  parties  of  fight- 
ing men  took  refuge  there  in  more 
modern  times.  The  hill  affords  an 
extensive  view  of  the  adjacent 
mountains,  including  Buko-zan  in 
the  Chichibu  range,  Fuji,  and 
Asama  yama.  The  town  of  Matsu,- 
yama  (Inn,  Koji-ya)  is  only  13  cho 
distant.  It  contains  a  large  Shinto 
temple  to  the  gods  of  Inari,  called 
the  Yakyu  Inari. 

KONODAI. 

Omnibuses  ply  daily  between 
Eyogoku-bashi  and  the  Ichikawa 
ferry,  Sri  26  cho  (9  m.),  a  'Treaty 
Limit'  boundary  where  passports 


Route  6, — Hakone  and  Miyanoshita, 


97 


have  to  be  shown.    Konodai  pro- 
perly Mama  Korwdai  (Inn,  Musashi- 
ya,  close  to  the  ferry),  is  the  bluff 
on  the  opposite   side  of  the  river, 
i     m.      above     the    ferry,    and 
is  a  favourite   resort  of  holiday- 
makers  from  Tokyo.     It  was  the 
site  of  a  strong  fortress  held  by 
Satomi  Awa-no-Kami,  from  whom 
it  was  captured  and  razed  to  the 
ground   by    the     powerfid    H5jo 
family  of  Odawara,  in   1564.     The 
situation  affords  a  pleasing  view 
of  the  plain,  with  Fuji  and    the 
Oyama  range  in  the  background. 
Pretty,  also,  is  the  view  of  the  fleet 
of  boats  sailiiQg  up  the  Yedo-gawa 
before  a  brisk   breeze.    The  whole 
site  is  thickly  overgrown  with  trees 
and  rank  vegetation ;  but  a  priest 
from  the  dilapidated  monastery  of 
Soneiji,  which   stands  within  the 
same  enclosure,  will  act  as  guide, 
and  point  out  various  objects  of 
interest,  including    the    tomb   of 
Ogasawara  Sadayori,  the  discoverer 
of  the  Bonin  Islands.  Afterwards,  a 
visit  should  be  made  to  the  temple 
of   Kbhoji  in    the    near    vicinity, 
specially  noted  for  the  richness  of 
the  maple  tints  in  autumn.     Down 
the  steps  on  the  hill-side,  stands  a 
shrine  dedicated    to    a    beautiful 
girl  called  Mama-no-Tekona,  who, 
for  reasons  which  tradition  does 
not  assign,  drowned  herself  in  the 
swamp  close  by. 

The  story  of  Mama-no-Tekona  was  al- 
ready an  ancient  one  in  the  8tli  century. 
The  unfortunate  maiden  is  much  prayed 
to  i)y  women  for  safe  delivery  and  for  the 
protection  of  their  children  from  small- 
pox. Several  poems  have  been  preserved 
m  an  ancient  anthology  called  the  Man- 
9dfhi  which  refer  to  her,  but  these  say 
nothing  of  the  motives  which  drove  her 
to  commit  suicide. 


ROUTE  6. 

The  Hakone  District;   Miyano- 
shita, Hakone. 

1.  general  inrobmation.  2.  miya- 
noshita and  neighboubhood. 
3.  hakone  and  neighbourhood. 

1. — General  Information. 

This  route  is  specially  recom- 
mended, as  uniting  charm  of 
scenery,  accessibility,  and  an  un- 
usual degree  of  comfort.  All 
tourists  arriving  at  Yokohama  are 
advised  to  devote  a  week  to  it,  and 
if  they  have  not  so  much  time  at 
their  disposal,  then  to  devote  two 
or  three  days  to  a  portion  of  it. 
Even  should  they  be  disinclined 
for  walking  and  sightseeing,  they 
will  find  no  place  more  pleasant  for 
idling  in  at  aU  seasons  than  Miya- 
noshita. 

The  word  Hakone,  it  should  be  observed, 
though  employed  by  us,  as  by  all  Euro- 
peans, to  denote  the  village  called  by  the 
Japanese  Hakone-no-Shuku,  Hakone-no-Ekif 
or  Makone-Mura,  is  properly  the  general 
name  of  the  entire  mountainous  district 
lying  at  the  neck  of  the  peninsula  of  Izu, 
between  the  Bays  of  Odawara  and  Suruga. 
For  this  reason  the  Japanese  talk  of 
Miyanoshita,  Kiga,  etc.,  as  being  *  in 
Hakone.'  The  original  name  of  Hakone 
Lake  (now,  however,  used  only  in  poetry) 
is  Ashi-no-Umi,  that  is,  *  the  Sea  of  Reeds.' 
Hence  the  name  of  the  hot  springs  of 
A$hinoyu.  The  lake  is,  in  round  num- 
bers, \\  ri  long,  4^  H  round,  and  has  a 
depth  of  37  fathoms  in  its  deepest  part. 

The  following  are  the  heights  of 
the  chief  villages  and  mountains 
mentioned  in  this  route  : — 

Ashinoyu   2,870  feet. 

Dai-ga-take  3,500  „ 

Dogashima    1,080  „ 

Futago-yama    3,620  „ 

Hakone  2,400  „ 

Higane    (temple    near 

Atami)    2,400  „ 

Kamiyama 4,770  „ 

Kiga   1,400  „ 

Kintoki-zan  4,060  „ 

Kojigoku   2,100  „ 

Koma-ga-take  4,600  „ 

Miyagino  1,500  „ 


98 


Route  6, — Hakone  and  Miyanoahita, 


Miyanoshita 1,400 

Myojin-ga-take     3,880 

My6j6-ga-take  3,080 

Ojigoku 3,466 

Otome-toge   3,333 

Saijoji  (temple)   1,240 

Sengoku-hara  2,170 

Ten  Province  Pass 3,216 

Ubago    2,940 

Yumoto 400 


feet. 


2. — Miyanoshita  and  Nbiohboub- 

HOOD. 

Miyanoshita  (Hotels,  **Fuji-ya, 
*Nara-ya,  both  large  establishments 
in  foreign  style)  is  easily  reached 
from  Yokohama  by  the  Tokaido 
Railway  to  Kozu  station,  li  hr. ; 
thence  by  tram,  jinrikisha,  or  car- 
riage to  Yumoto,  1  hr. ;  thence  by 
jinrikisha  (at  least  two  men  neces- 
sary) or  on  foot  for  1^  ri  up  the 
valley  of  the  Hayakawa  to  Miya- 
noshita, nearly  1  hr.  by  jinrikisha, 
li  hr.  on  foot— say  4i  hrs.  for  the 
whole  journey,  including  stoppages. 
From  Tokyo  it  is  1  hr.  more,  or 
5^  hrs.  in  all. 

Tbam  Itinebabt  along  Plain. 

Edzu  to : —  Ri.   Cho.      M. 

Odawara 1      28        4,^ 

Yumoto 2      10        5i 

Total 4        2      10 


Walking  ob  Jtnbikisha  Itineb- 
abt UP  New  Eoad. 

Yiunoto  to  : —          Ri.  Cho.  M. 

Tonosawa 6^  i 

Miyanoshita 1  16i  3^ 

(Kiga. 9  i 

Miyagino   5  ^) 

Total 2         15 


At  Kozn  (Jrm,  Hayano),  it  is 
worth  devoting  a  few  minutes  to 
walking  out  on  the  beach  to  look 
at  the  beautiful  view  of  Odawara 
Bay,  with,  to  the  r.,  the  peninsula  of 


Izu  on  whose  coast  Atami  is  situa- 
ted, the  volcano  of  Oshima  (Vries 
Island),  and  the  islet  of  Enoshima. 
to  the  1.  Turning  round,  one  has 
a  magnificent  view  of  Fuji.  The 
road  from  Kozu  to  Yumoto  (the 
old  Tokaido)  leads  for  the  first  part 
of  the  way  through  the  town  of 
Odawara  (Inn,  Koise-ya),  cele- 
brated in  Japanese  history  as  the 
scene  of  many  bloody  conflicts  in 
feudal  times. 

Odawara  belonged  successively  to 
various  families  of  Daimyos,  who  dwelt  in. 
the  castle  which  was  not  finaUy  destroyed, 
till  the  time  of  the  late  revolution.  The 
most  celebrated  of  these  families  were  the 
Hoj5,  a  younger  branch  of  the  family  of 
'  Regents '  who  ruled  over  Japan  daring 
the  13th  century  and  the  first  three 
decades  of  the  14th.  This  younger  branch, 
choosing  Odawara  as  their  capital  in  A.D. 
1495,  continued  to  reside  there  for  five 
generations,  namely,  tiU  1590,  when  they 
were  defeated  and  the  power  'of  their 
house  broken  for  ever  by  the  Taiko  Hide-  " 
yoshi  in  the  battle  of  Ishikake-yama. 
Retiring  to  their  castle,  the  various  com- 
manding officers  on  the  HojS  side  could 
come  to  no  agreement,  as  time  wore  on,  as 
to  whether  it  were  better  to  await  the 
onslaught  of  the  enemy,  or  to  sally  forth 
themselves  and  offer  battle.  While  they 
were  still  discussing  this  question  in  all 
its  bearings,  Hideyoshi  made  a  sudden 
attack  and  captured  the  castle  by  a  coup 
de  main.  Hence  the  proverbial  saying, 
Odawara  hyOgi,  that  is,  the  Odawara  con- 
ference,' which  means  endless  talk  re- 
sulting in  nothing.  Among  the  common 
people,  who  care  not  for  the  deeds  of 
days  gone  by,  Odawara  is  chiefly  noted 
for  the  manufacture  of  a  quack  medicine 
called  uirO,  which  is  looked  on  as  a 
panacea  for  all  the  ills  to  which  flesh  is  heir. 

The  tram-car  changes  horses  op- 
posite the  ruined  walls  of  the 
castle.  On  leaving  Odawara,  the 
road  enters  the  valley  of  the  Haya- 
kawa near  the  mouth  of  that 
stream,  which  takes  its  origin  in 
Lake  Hakone.  The  two  round 
summits  seen  almost  constantly 
ahead  are  Futago-yama,  *  the 
Twin  Mountains.'  The  avenue  to 
the  r.  of  the  tram  road  marks  the 
old  Tokaido,  which  carriages  and 
jinrikishas  still  follow.     At 

Tiimoto,  10  min.  out  of  the 
vill.,  there  is  a  cascade  known  as 
Tamadare  no  taki.      A  small  fee  is 


Walks  near  Miyanoshita, 


99 


ehwrged  for  admittance.  Tumoto 
boasts  a  large  inn,  called  Fuku- 
ziupi ;  but  it  would  seem  to  be 
conducted  with  a  view  to  the 
almost  exclusive  reception  of  Japa- 
nese guests.  Foreigners  obliged  to 
break  the  journey  are  therefore 
advised  to  push  on  6^  chd  further 
to  the  village  of 

Tonosawa,  where  the  Tamano- 
yu  Hotel  will  be  found  a  pieasanter 
abode,  owing  to  the  fact  that  Euro- 
pean food  and  beds  are  provided. 
There  are  also  good  hot  springs. 
The  white  building,  which  strikes 
the  eye  on  the  hill  opposite,  is  a 
Russian  chapel.  The  mosaic  wood- 
work (hiji-mono),  which  from 
Yumoto  onwards  fills  such  a  pro- 
minent place  in  every  shop-window, 
is  the  specialty  for  which  the  whole 
Miyanoshita^Hakone  district  is 
noted.  The  hamlet  more  than  half 
way  up  from  Yumoto  to  Miyano- 
ahita  is 

Ohiradai.  On  the  r.  side  there 
is  a  good  wood-work  shop,  Wata- 
nabe,  whose  specialty,  is  the  fine 
bamboo  basket-work  of  Shizuoka. 

Miyanoshita  is  a  pleasant  resort 
for  many  reasons — the  purity  of 
the  air,  the  excellence  of  the 
hotels,  the  numerous  pretty  walks 
both  short  and  long,  the  plentiful 
supply  of  '  chairs  *  and  of  specially 
large  and  comfortable  kagos  for 
those  who  prefer  being  carried, 
and  the  delicious  hot  baths,  which, 
containing  but  faint  traces  of  salt 
and  soda,  may  be  used  without 
medical  advice.  .  The  principal 
short  walks  are  : — 

1.  To  Kiga  by  the  new  road 
(distance,  9  chd,  say  ^  hr.): — no 
climbing,  good  waterfalls  on  the 
way,  beautiful  gold-fish  to  feed  with 
cakes  at  the  Sengoku-ya  tea-house. 
Equally  flat  and  pleasant  road  5 
ehd  further  up  the  valley  of  the 
Hayakawa  to  Miyagino.  The  Eiga 
waUc  may  be  varied  by  taking  the 
still  more  picturesque  but  less 
easy  old  road,  turning  sharp  up  to 


the  1.  on  leaving  the  Fuji-ya  Hotel, 
passing  through  the  village  -of 
Sokokura,  where  most  Japanese 
visitors  to  the  springs  stop  in  pre- 
ference to  Miyanoshita,  then  down 
to  the  r.,  and  over  an  old  rustic 
bridge,  where  cascades  of  cold 
water  and  pipes  leading  hot  water 
to  the  hotels  may  be  seen  in  strange 
juxtaposition;  thence  to  the  charm- 
ing little  tea-house  of  Mi-harashi, 
with  extensive  view  of  the  valley 
and  uplands  and  Eiga  below,  and 
so  on  down  to  Eiga  itself  (11  chd 
altogether).  Eiga,  though  little 
patronised  by  foreigners  on  ac- 
count of  its  want  of  airiness,  is  a 
favourite  resort  of  the  Japanese, 
and  boasts  several  excellent  inns 
in  native  style,  also  a  new  one  in 
foreign  style  called  Ise-ya. 

2.  To  Dogashima,  a  village 
som'e  few  hundred  yards  below  Mi- 
yanoshita, down  a  steep  ravine. 
There  are  a  pretty  cascade  and  a 
charming  villa,  permission  to  visit 
which  may  sometimes  be  obtained 
through  the  proprietors  of  the  Mi- 
yanoshita hotels. 

3.  Walk  down  the  new  road  in 
the  direction  of  Tonosawa  _to  the 
toll-houses,  (8i  chd),  or  on  to  Ohira- 
dai (17  chd), 

4.  Climb  half-way  up  Sengen- 
yaiiia,  the  wooded  hill  immediately 
at  the  back  of  the  bachelors' 
quarters  of  the  Fuji-ya  HoteL 
It  is  a  steep  pull  of  from  20  min. 
to  i  hr.  The  height  has  been 
roughly  estimated  at  1,000  ft. 
above  the  village.  Te£b-shed  on  the 
top.  Beautiful  view  of  upper  half 
of  Fuji,  the  tooth-shaped  mountain 
Eintoki-zan,  and  on  the  other  side, 
the  sea  with  Enoshima  and  Cape 
Misaki. 

Somewhat  longer  (1  to  2  hrs.), 
less  good  walking,  but  very  pic- 
turesque are : — 

5.  To  Kiga  and  Miyagrino,  as  in 

No.  1 ;  then  cross  the  river  and 
turn  sharp  to  the  r.,  walking  home 


100 


Eoute  6. — Hakone  and  Miyaiwshita, 


on  the  other  side,  and  re-crossing  to 
the  Miyanoshita  side  at  Dogashima. 
Guide  indispensab'e.  This  is  the 
most  beautiful  of  all  the  walks  near 
Miyanoshita.  It  takes  a  good 
walker  a  little  over  1  hr. 

6.  Up  to  Kojigokn ;  then  down 
past  the  hamlet  of  Ninotaira  to 
Miyagino  and  Kiga,  whence  home 
either  by  the  new  or  the  old  road. 
This  walk  may  be  abridged  by 
turning  to  the  r.  before  reaching 
Kojigoku,  almost  all  the  paths  r. 
leading  down  ultimately  to  the 
Kiga  road.  Some  i)ersons  may  feel 
tempted  to  stay  at  Kojigoku  rather 
than  at  Miyanoshita,  as  the  former 
place  is  some  700  ft.  higher,  and 
consequently  has  fresher  air.  The 
only  disadvantage  is  the  loneliness 
of  the  spot.  The  Kaikwatei  Hotel 
is  under  foreign  management,  and 
the  Mikawa-ya  is  a  good  Japanese 
inn. 

The  meaning  of  the  name  Kojiaohtc  is 
*  small  hell.'  It  was  given  to  the  place  in 
allusion  to  some  small  sulphur  springs, 
which  supply  the  hotel  baths.  In  1877,  on 
the  occasion  of  the  visit  of  H.  M.  the 
Mikado,  the  name  of  Kojigoku  was 
officially  altered  to  Kowaki-daniy  which 
means  '  the  valley  of  the  lesser  boiling.' 
But  the  older  name  appears  to  be  still  the 
more  popular  of  the  two. 

A  good  half-day's  excursion  is 
to: — 

7.  Ojigrokn«  or  ^big  hell,'  alter- 
natively named  Owaki-dani,  'the 
valley  of  the  greater  boiling/  dis- 
tant a  little  under  2  n  to  the 
top  of  the  gorge.  Neither  name  is 
a  misnomer.  The  whole  gorge 
reeks  with  sulphureous  fumes, 
vegetation  decreases  as  one  ascends 
higher,  and  the  aspect  of  the  scene 
becomes  weird  and  desolate.  It  is 
advisable  to  tread  carefuUy  after 
the  guide,  as  more  lives  than  one 
have  been  sacrificed  by  a  false  step 
on  the  treacherous  crust.  The 
view  from  the  top  of  the  gorge 
differs  as  widely  in  its  charms  from 
the  scene  of  desolation  just  tra- 
versed as  can  well  be  imagined. 
In  the  centre,  Fuji  towers  up  in 


perfect  beauty.  To  the  extreme  r. 
is  Kintoki-zan,  then  the  Otome- 
toge,  the  Nagao-toge,  and  to  the  L 
the  more  imposing  slopes  of  Ashi- 
taka.  The  summit  of  Kammuri- 
ga-take,  which  rises  up  immediately 
behind  the  sulphur  springs^  dis- 
tinguishes itseft  by  its  graceful 
outline  and  by  the  dense  forest 
covering  its  sides.  The  vegetation 
of  this  neighbourhood,  moreover, 
is  remarkable,  consisting  as  it  does 
chiefly  of  the  small  box  and  asemi 
(And/romeda  japonica). 

8.  Up  Myoj6-ga4ake,  the  big 
grassy  hill  immediately  opposite 
Miyanoshita,  on  the  other  side  of 
the  stream.  It  is  a  walk  of  1^  hr. 
to  the  top,  the  path  at  first  leading 
down  through  the  vill.  of  Doga- 
shima,  there  crossing  the  stream, 
and  then  turning  considerably  to 
the  r.,  before  turning  1.  again  along 
the  crest  of  the  hill.  The  view 
from  the  summit  is  magnificent.  In 
the  centre  is  Fuji,  the  depression 
immediately  in  front  of  which  is 
the  Otome-toge ;  then  to  the  r. 
KintokiandMyojin-ga-take,  behind 
which  rise  Oyama,  and  Tanzawa ; 
in  the  plain  the  Sakawa-gawa,  and 
behind  it  the  low  range  of  Soga- 
yama,  in  which  a  red  treeless  patch 
marks  the  Kozu  railway  station. 
The  town  of  Odawara  can  be  seen 
by  walking  back  a  few  yards  j  then 
the  sea  with  Oshima,  and  to  the  r. 
the  low  slope  of  Ishikake-yama ; 
then  Futago-yama,  Koma-ga-take, 
Kami-yama,  and  Dai-ga-take.  The 
blear  spot  on  Kami-yama  is  the 
solfatara  of  So-on-jigoku.  Still 
further  to  the  r.,  in  the  blue 
distance,  is  Ashitaka-yama.  The 
best  time  to  see  this  view  is  at 
sunrise  or  at  sunset.  The  coolie 
should  therefore  carry  a  lantern, 
either  for  the  first  or  for  the  last 
portion  of  the  walk.  Those  who  are 
willing  to  face  a  very  stony  path 
for  the  sake  of  continued  beautiful 
views,  are  advised  to  return  vii 
Miyagino  and  Kiga.    The    whole 


Ashinoyu,     Futago-yama» 


101 


e3q)edition  will  then  take  from  3 
to  3i  hrs.,  including  stoppages. 

9.  To  Ashinoyu  and  Hnkone  (1 

ri  4  cho  to  Ashinoyu,  thence  1  ri  on 
to  Hakone).  Ashinoyu  (Inns, 
*Mat8uzaka-ya,  foreign  food  and 
beds ;  Kinokuni-ya)  is  famous  for 
its  sulphur  springs,  whose  efficacy 
in  the  .treatment  of  skin  diseases 
and  rheumatism  attracts  crowds 
of  Japanese  patients  and  not  a 
few  foreigners,  despite  the  bleak 
uninviting  appearance  of  the  locali- 
ty. Ashinoyu  is  very  cool  in  sum- 
mer, owing  to  its  height,  but  pays 
for  this  advantage  by  being  fre- 
quently enveloped  in  mist.  The 
road  thither,  about  half  of  which  is 
a  stiff  puU,  leads  close  by  Kojigoku. 
Just  before  reaching  Ashinoyu, 
towards  the  end  of  a  steep  climb 
called  the  Nana-mawari,  or  *  seven 
turnings,'  the  guide  should  be  told 
to  lead  over  a  small  eminence 
known  as  Benten-yama.  It  is  not 
at  all  out  of  the  way,  and  offers  a 
splendid  view — Odawara  Bay,  the 
peninsula  of  Miura  with  Enoshima 
like  a  little  knob  on  the  coast ;  and 
beyond  that,  Tokyo  Bay  and  the 
blue  outline  of  the  provinces  of 
S^azusa  and  Boshu,  which  divide 
Tokyo  Bay  from  the  Pacifla  The 
chief  mountain  to  the  1.  is  Oyama, 
bluntly  triangular  in  shape.  Ashi- 
noyu itself  has  no  view,  as  it  lies  in 
a  marshy  depression,  though  on 
the  top  of  a  hill. 

[On  a  hill  8  cho  beyond  Ashinoyu, 
at  a  place  called  Tu-wi-hana- 
zawa,  a  bathing  establishment 
with  very  strong  sulphur  baths 
has  recently  been  opened. 
There  is  a  splendid  view,  simi- 
lar to  that  from  Benten-yama. 
This  walk,  and  that  along  the 
flat  in  the  direction^of  Hakone, 
are  the  two  best  for  invalids 
staying  at  Ashinoyu.] 

After  leaving  Ashinoyu,  the  path 
is  at  first  level,  and  then  descends 
most  of  the  way  to  Hakone.  The 
first  object  of   interest  passed  is. 


1.,  a  set  of  three  small  stone  monu- 
ments, two  of  which  are  dedicated 
to  the  Soga  Brothers  {8oga  Kyodai), 
famous  for  the  vendetta  which  they 
executed  in  the  hunting-camp  of 
the  Shogun  Yoritomo,  at  the  base 
of  Fuji,  in  the  year  1193,  on  Kudo 
Suketsune,  the  murderer  of  their 
father.  The  third  and  smallest  of  the 
monuments  preserves  the  memory 
of  Tora  Gk)zen,  a_beautiful  courtesan 
of  the  town  of  Oiso,  who  was  the 
mistress  of  the  elder  of  the  two 
brothers,  and  became  a  nun  on 
his  decease.  A  few  yards  further 
on,  to  the  1.  and  half -hidden  among 
the  grass  and  bushes,  is  a  block  of 
andesite  rock  well- worth  pausing  a 
moment  to  inspect,  as  it  is  covered 
with  Buddhist  images  carved  in 
relief.  These  images  are  known  as 
the  Ni-jvrgO'Bosatsu,  that  is,  *  the  25 
Bosatsu ; '  but  which  of  the  many 
thousands  of  these  divine  beings 
they  are  intended  to  represent,  is 
uncertain.  The  carving  apparent- 
ly dates  from  A.D.  1293.  But  the 
chief  curiosity  on  the  road  is  the 
large  Image  of  Jiao,  carved  in  relief 
on  a  block  of  andesite,  and  worthy 
to  be  counted  among  the  triumphs 
of  the  *  Japanese  chisel.  Tradition 
has  it  that  the  great  Buddhist 
saint,  Kobo  DaisM,  carved  this 
image  in  a  single  night.  A  festival 
in  its  honour  is  celebrated  yearly 
on  the  23rd  August. 

[A  short  way  past  this  large 
image,  the  way  up  the  nearer 
of  Fntago-yama's  two  chief 
summits  turns  off  to  the  1. 
The  ascent,  which  will  take  a 
good  walker  20  min.  or  i 
hr.  from  this  spot,  is  worth 
making — ^perhaps  most  con- 
veniently as  a  separate  walk 
from  Miyanoshita  or  from  Ha- 
kone,— ^the  ancient  crater,  now 
thickly  carpeted  with  moss 
and  overgrown  with  bushes 
and  trees,  being  remarkably 
extensive,  and  the  view  from 
its  upper  rim,  which  is  clear 
of    wood,    being    magnificent. 


102 


Route  6. — Hakone  and  Miyanos/iita, 


The  chief  points  to  be  noticed 
are :  to  the  N.E.,  the  Oyama 
and  Tanzawa  ranges,  with  the 
plain  of  Sagami»  and  in  the 
distance  Tokyo  Bay ;  to  the  E., 
Sagami  Bay  and  the  promon- 
tories of  Misaki  and  Sonosaki, 
with  the  islet  of  Enoshima ;  to 
the  S.E.,  Vries  Island  with  its 
ceaseless  column  of  smoke, 
and  the  smaller  islands  of  To- 
shima,  Niijima,  etc.,  forming 
with  it  and  with  more  distant 
Hachijo  the  'Seven  Isles  of 
Izu ; '  to  the  S.,  Amagi-san  in 
1 3^11,  and  to  the  r.  of  it  the  blue 
Grulf  of  Suruga  with  its  line  of 
white  surf,  and  the  narrow 
pine-clad  promontory  of  Mio- 
no-Matsubara  shutting  in  Shi- 
mizu  Bay  ;  to  the  W.N.W.,  and 
seemingly  within  a  few  yards 
of  the  spectator,  Kammuri- 
ga-take,  which  unfortunately 
hides  the  whole  of  Fuji  except 
a  small  portion  of  one  slope ;  to 
the  N.  W.  and  N.,  the  moun- 
tains of  Koshiu  and  Chichibu. 
At  the  spectator's  feet  sparkle 
the  waters  of  Lake  Hakone. 
The  long  mountain-ridge  be- 
yond the  lake  and  a  little  to 
the  1.,  is  called  Taiko  yama  or 
Taiko-michi,  from  a  tradition 
to  the  effect  that  the  Taiko 
Hideyoshi  led  his  troops  along 
it  when  going  to  fight  the 
battle  of  Ishikake-yama.  The 
way  was  shown  him — so  it  is 
alleged — by  a  hunier,  whom 
he  thereupon  killed,  in  order 
to  make  sure  that  the  enemy 
should  not  profit  by  the  poor 
fellow's  local  knowledge.  It  is 
possible  to  ascend  the  further 
summit  of  Putago-yama  {8hi~ 
ta-Futago) ;  but  the  labour  of 
forcing  one's  way  through  the 
thick  undergrowth  is  not  re- 
paid, as  the  summit  itself  is 
covered  with  trees  and  bushes 
that  shut  out  all  view.  Koiiia- 
^n-tiike,  also,  may  be  as- 
cended r.  from  near  the  large 


image  of  Jizo.      But  though, 
the  loftiest  mountain   in   the 
Hakone  range  excepting  Kami- 
yama,  it  is  less  worth  climb- 
ing than  Futago-yama,  as  the 
plateau-like  nature  of  the  top 
makes  it  impossible  to  take  in 
the  whole  of  the  view   from 
any  single  spot.     It  has,  how- 
ever, the  advantage  of  showing 
Fuji  from  peak  to  base.      A 
boulder  at  the  top  of  Komar-ga- 
take  is  the  subject  of  a  curious 
superstition.  ■  It   is    believed 
that  the  water  contained  in  the 
hollows  of  this  boulder  never 
runs  dry ;  and  the  peasants  of 
the  surrounding  country  make 
pilgrimages  to  it   in    seasons 
of  drought,  in  order  to  obtain 
rain  by   scattering  the  drops 
about  to  the  four  winds.     But 
if  any  of  the  water  be  taken 
down  the  mountain,  the  result 
is   a  typhoon. — Koma-ga-take 
may  also  be  ascended  from  a 
point  nearer  the  vill.  of  Ashi- 
noyu;  but  the  climb  is  then 
considerably  steeper.] 
The  two  meres,  r.  and  1.,  on  the 
way  between  Ashinoyu  and  Hakone, 
are  the  remains  of  ancient  craters. 
The  first  hamlet  reached  on  getting 
to   the  lake  is  Moto-Hakone,  12  cho 
this  side  of  Hakone  itself.     There 
is    an    inn    called    the    Tsuta-ya, 
pleasantly  situated  on  the  border 
of  the  lake,  and  commanding  the 
best  view  of  Fuji  to  be  had  in  this 
neighbourhood. 

Instead  of  returning  to  Miyano- 
shita  by  the  way  one  has  come,  it 
will  be  found  pleasant  in  warm 
weather  to  take  a  boat  from  Hakone 
(or  from  Moto-Hakone,  which 
shortens  the  expedition  by  one  mile) 
to  a  spot  called  Shin-yu  at  the 
far  end  of  the  lake  (the  Japanese 
designation  for  the  far-end  of  the 
lake  is  Umi-jiri).  Alighting  there, 
we  go  past  the  pleasant  little  bath- 
ing village  of  XJhdgOy  up  the  spur 
separating  the  lake  from  Ojigoku, 
and  return  home  to  Miyanoshita  • 


Hata,     Otome-toge, 


108 


by  the  Ojigokn,  way,  as  in  walk  No. 
7.  Those  who  have  done  the  ex- 
pedition, not  on  foot,  but  in  chairs 
or  kagoSf  can  take  these  convey- 
ances with  them  in  the  boat,,  and 
can  be  carried  most  of  the  way 
home  from  Shin-yu.  It  is  only 
necessary  to  walk  ov^r  the  dan- 
gerous portion  of  the  Ojigoku 
gorge.  Instead  of  taking  a  boat, 
some  may  prefer  to  follow  the 
path  along  the  edge  of  the  lake. 
The  distances,  if  this  extension  be 
adopted,  are  stated  to  be  : 

Miyanoshita  to  : —      Ri.  Cho.  M. 

Ashinoyu   1  4  2f 

Moto-Hakone    23  li 

Hakone  12  | 

Umijiri  1  18  3f 

Ubago 12  I 

Ojigoku  8  i 

Miyanoshita 1  34  4f 

Total  6      3  14f 


The  above  distances  are  perhaps 
under-estimated. 

10.  Up  nearly  as  far  as  Ashino- 
yu, thence  sharp  1.  for  30  cho  down 
a  steep  and  stony,  but  picturesque 
path,  which  passes  through  the  vill. 
of  Hata  on  the  old  Tokaido.  The 
return  to  Miyanoshita  is  made  vi& 
Yumoto,  Tonosawa,  and  Ohiradai, 
up  the  old  road — total  distance, 
about  5i  ri.  The  30  cho  descent 
from  near  Ashinoyu  is  called  the 
Taki-zaka,  that  is, '  cascade  hill/  on 
account  of  a  pretty  cascade  seen  to 
the  r.  about  two-thirds  of  the  way 
down. 

11.  To  the  top  of  the  Otoine- 
toge,  or  '  Maiden's  Pass,'  distant 
2^  ri  (6  m.),  whence  can  be  gained 
the  nearest  and  most  complete 
view  of  Fuji  and  of  the  plain  at 
its  base.  The  path  is  not  steep, 
excepting  some  8  cho  in  the  middle 
up  a  hill  called  the  Usui-toge, 
and  11  cho  at  the  end,  which  are 
almost  like  scaling  a  wall.  It  is 
possible,  however,  except  for  un- 


usually heavy  persons,  to  be  carried 
the  whole  way  in  a  chair.  The 
path  leads  through  Riga  and  Miya- 
gino,  crosses  the  Hayakawa,  and 
continues  up  the  r.  side  of  the 
valley  to  the  vill.  of 

Sengoku^hara,  noted  for  the  cattle- 
farm,  extensive  for  Japan,  whence 
the  Miyanoshita  hotels  are  supplied 
with  milk  and  butter. 

[From  Sengoku-hara,  it  is  possible 
to  ascend  Kintoki-zan.  The 
distance  to  the  summit  is 
estimated  at  25  cho,  and  the 
climb  is  steep  in  some  places. 
The  people  of  the  surrounding 
country-side  ascend  Kintoki- 
zan  annually  on  the  17th  day 
of  the  3rd  moon  (old  calendar), 
on  which  day  the  festival  of 
I-no-hana  (*  the  boar's  nose ')  is 
held  on  the  summit.  The 
name  of  the  mountain  is  de- 
rived from  that  of  Kintoki,  a 
mighty  hunter  of  legendary 
fame.] 

The  climb  up  the  Otome-toge  com- 
mences shortly  after  leaving  Sen- 
goku-hara. The  labour  it  entails  is 
amply  repaid  by  the  glorious  view 
from  tbe  summit.  Persons  with 
sufficient  time  and  energy  will  do 
well  to  climb  up  the  hill  to  the 
r., — we  should  rather  say,  up  the 
hills,  for  three  or  four  rise  behind 
each  other,  and  what  looks  like  the 
affair  of  a  few  moments  really  takes 
the  best  part  of  half-an-hour  to 
accomplish.  From  the  top,  straight 
ahead,  are  visible  the  snow-clad 
peaks  of  the  granite  mountains  of 
Hida  and  Etchii. — ^To  travel  out  to 
Miyanoshita  via  the  Otome-toge  is  a 
pleasant  alternative  route  for  those 
who  intend  visiting  this  district  a 
second  time.  Instead  of  alighting 
at  Eozu,  one  continues  in  the  train 
as  far  as  the  station  of  Gk>tem- 
ba,  situated  in  the  plain  at  Fuji's 
base.  From  Gotemba  it  is  2  rt  to 
the  top  of  the  pass.  The  first  por- 
tion of  the  way  may  be  done  by 
jinrikisha.     Gotemba  is   also    the 


104 


Route  6, — Miyanoshita  and  Hakone. 


nearest  station  for  travellers 
coming  up  the  Tokaido  fiailway 
from  Kobe,  bound  for  Miyanoshita. 
But  if  they  have  much  luggage  or 
object  to  walking,  they  should  go 
on  to  Eozu,  whence  the  facilities 
for  proceeding  to  Miyanoshita  are 
greater. 

^  12.  To  the  Buddhist  temple  of 
8ai]dji,  sometimes  called  Doryo-san, 
distant  3  ri.  Though  placed  last, 
this  expedition  is  perhaps  the  most 
delightful  of  all ;  for  it  alone  in- 
cludes architectural  beauties  as 
well  as  beauties  of  nature.  The 
path,  after  passing  through  Kiga 
and  Miyagino  and  crossing  the 
Hayakawa,  leads  up  to  a  grassy 
plateau  near  the  summit  of  Myo- 
jin-jja-take  (not  fco  be  confounded 
with  the  Myojo-ga-take  of  Walk 
No.  8).  Tell  the  guide  to  lead  to 
the  spot,  not  far  out  of  the  way, 
whence  may  best  be  seen  the 
superb  view : — on  the  one  hand, 
the  sea  with  the  plain  of  Sagami 
watered  by  the  rivers  Banyu  and 
Sakawa,  the  mountain  ranges  of 
Oyama,  Eurakake,  Tanzawa,  Sobu- 
tsu,  Tagura-ga-take,  and  many  of 
the  mountains  of  Koshu;  on  the 
other,  the  wooded  heights  beyond 
the  Hakone  pass  which  dwarf  the 
nearer  ridge  of  Takanosu;  then 
turning  towards  the  r.,  double- 
'  crested  Futago-yama,  Koma-ga- 
take,  Eammuri-ga-take,  and  the 
long  ridge  to  the  W.  of  Hakone 
which  terminates  in  Eintoki-zan ; 
and  above  and  beyond  all,  the 
gigantic  cone  of  Fuji.  From  this 
point  it  is  a  descent,  Saijoji  being 
even  lower  down  on  the  far  side  of 
the  mountain  than  Miyanoshita  is 
on  the  near.  Before  reaching  it, 
the  open  moorland  of  the  hillside  is 
exchanged  for  a  magnificent  forest 
of  pines  and  cryptomerias,  with  an 
undergrowth  of  beautiful  flowering 
shrubs — deutzia,  azalea,  pyrus  ja- 
ponica,  aucuba,  etc.,  according  to 
the  season. 

The  monastery  of  Saij5ji,  which  be- 
longs to  the  S5td  sect  of  Buddhists,  was 


founded  by  a  hermit  named  Ryoan,  who 
died  A.D.  1401 ;  but  it  owee  its  special 
reputation  for  sanctity  to  his  successor 
Dory6,  who  was  supposed  to  be  one  of 
the  numerous  incarnations'  of  Kwannon, 
the  Goddess  of  Mercy. 

To  Doryo's  memory  is  dedicated 
the  finest  of  all  the  shrines  which 
collectively  constitute  Saijoji.  It 
is  called  Myokwaku-do,  and  stands 
at  the  top  of  a  flight  of  steps  to 
the  1.  The  links  of  the  chain 
which  divides  the  staircase  into 
two  parts  are  often  bound  with 
scraps  of  paper,  on  which  pilgrims 
have  written  their  prayers.  The 
fan  of  feathers,  which  forms  so 
striking  a  feature  of  the  ornamenta- 
tion, was  Doryo's  crest.  The  winged 
flgures  with  large  noses  represent 
goblins  (tengu),  who  dwell  in  the 
mountains.  Most  of  the  large  up- 
right stones  of  irregular  shape  in- 
scribed with  characters  in  red  or 
gold,  which  are  scattered  about  the 
grounds,  are  memorials  of  persons 
who  have  at  various  times  contri- 
buted towards  the  repairs  of  the 
temple.  So  is  the  hideous  blue  rail- 
ing, by  which  more  modern  piety 
has  endeavoured  to  mar  the  perfect 
taste  and  beauty  of  the  scene.  It 
is  generally  most  convenient  to 
lunch  at  Saijoji  alfresco  in  one  of 
the  more  retired  portions  of  the 
temple  grounds. 

Instead  of  returning  to  Miyano- 
shita the  way  one  came,  it  is  far 
better  to   arrange  at    the    hotel, 
before  starting,  to  have  jinrikishas 
in  waiting  at  the  end  of  the  stately 
avenue    of    cryptomerias    leading 
from  the  temple  down  for  28  cho  to 
the    vill.   of  Sekimoto.    After   the 
fatigues  of  the  walk,  one  can  then 
bowl  along  pleasantly  through  the 
picturesque  valley  of  the  Sakawa- 
gawa,  skirting  Odawara,  and  thence 
proceeding  up    the    new  road  to 
Tonosawa  and  Miyanoshita,  either 
in  the  same  jinrikisha  or  on  foot. 
The  total  distance  of  the  trip,  as 
thus  modified,  is  10  n  25  cho  (26 
miles) ;  but  the  8  ri  in  jinrikisha 
from  Sekimoto  to  Odawara,   and 


Hako7ie,     Temple  of  Oongen. 


105 


the  possibility  of  doing  all  the 
remainder  of  the  way  up  to  Miya- 
noshita  by  jinrikisha,  prevent  it 
from  being  too  fatiguing. — It  is 
also  possible  to  take  Saijoji  on 
the  way  back  from  Miyanoshita 
to  Yokohama,  by  joining  the  To- 
kaido  Bailway  at  Maimda,  the 
nearest  station  to  the  temple.  The 
distance  is  estimated  at  between  2 
and  3  ri.  The  way  is  passable  for 
jinrikishas. 

3. — Hakone  and  Neighbourhood. 

Hakone  is  most  quickly  reached 
from  Yokohama  and  Tokyo  by  the 
Tokaido  Bailway  as  far  as  Kozu, 
thence  by  carriage  or  jinrikisha  to 
Sammai-bashi,  a  hamlet  close  to 
Yumoto  (the  tram  to  Yumoto  may 
therefore  be  taken,  instead  of  a 
carriage  or  jinrikisha,  if  preferred), 
and  from  Sammai-bashi  on  foot  or 
in  hago  along  the  old  Tokaido  up 
the  Hakone  pass  vid  Hata,  the 
whole  journey  taking  about  6  hrs. 
from  Yokohama,  or  7  hrs.  from 
Tkoyo.  But  many  residents  pre- 
fer to  travel  vi&  Miyanoshita  where 
they  spend  the  night,  and  then 
push  on  next  morning  by  Walk 
No.  9  (see  p.  101). 

The  respective  merits  of  Hako- 
ne and  Miyanoshita  as  summer 
resorts  form  a  constant  subject 
of  debate  between  the  partisans 
of  the  two  places.  Miyanoshita 
has  the  advantage  of  hot  springs, 
a  drier  air,  easier  access,  and 
hotels  in  European  style.  Hakone 
is  cooler,  being  1,000  ft.  higher, 
it  affords  more  privacy,  and  has 
a  charming  lake  where  one  may 
bathe  and  boat  and  go  on  water 
picnics.  In  winter  the  advantage 
is  altogether  on  Miyanoshita's  side. 
No  one  thinks  of  staying  at  Hakone 
daring  that  season,  whereas  Miya- 
noshita is  equally  pleasant  all  the 
year  round.  Indeed,  many  prefer 
the  winter  there  to  the  summer, 
as  the  air  is  almost  always  clear  in 
winter,  and  walking  consequently 


more  enjoyable.  The  chief  inns  at 
Hakone  are  the  Haf  u-ya,  Yamaki-y  a, 
and  Ishi-uchi,  all  on  the  lake.  But 
as  nearly  every  house  in  the  village 
is  to  let  during  the  summer  season, 
the  plan  usuaUy  followed  by  fami- 
lies from  Yokohama  is  to  hire  a 
separate  residence  by  the  month, 
bring  their  own  servants  with 
them,  and  set  up  housekeeping. 
Foreign  furniture  of  a  rough  kind 
is  generally  obtainable,  as  also  are 
fowls,  vegetables,  bread,  and  even 
milk  and  butcher's  meat  during 
the  sununer  season. 

Some  of  the  most  enjoyable  ex- 
peditions from  Hakone  are  the 
same  as  those  already  described 
from  Miyanoshita, — for  instance, 
those  to  Ojigoku,  to  Ashinoyu  and 
up  Futago-yama,  etc.  The  follow- 
ing may  also  be  recommended : — 

1.  The  Temple  of  Gongen.  The 
way  leads  out  of  the  N.  end  of  the 
village,  under  an  avenue  of  fine 
cryptomerias  which  here  lines  the 
Tokaido.  A  flight  of  steps  will  be 
seen  r.,  leading  to  a  small  shed 
whence  there  is  a  charming  view. 
The  village  formerly  extended  to 
this  place.  Here  also  stood  the 
old  barrier  {Hdkone  no  seki)  and 
guard-house,  where  all  travellers 
were  challenged  and  required  to 
show  their  passports.  The  barrier 
was  removed  in  1871,  but  part  of 
the  stone-work  stiU  remains.  Fol- 
lowing along  the  avenue,  we  soon 
come  L  to  the  Emperor's  summer 
palace  {Rikyu),  not  accessible  to  the 
public.  The  next  point  in  the 
road  is  the  Tsuji-ya  inn,  from 
which  the  best  view  of  Fuji  to  be 
had  anywhere  on  the  shores  of  the 
lake  is  obtained.  A  little  further 
on,  we  pass  under  a  stone  torii  and 
enter  Moto  Hakone,  a  pleasant- 
looking  little  place,  much  fre- 
quented by  students  from  Tokyo, 
but  indifferent  to  foreign  patroh- 
age.  We  then  turn  slightly  to 
the  1.,  passing  under  a  red  torii,  by 
the  side  of  which  stands  a  wooden 


106 


Route  6, — MiyanoshUa  and  Hakone. 


ehed  containing  two  iron  rice- 
boilers  said  to  have  been  used  by 
Yoritomo  on  his  huntinf^  expedi- 
tions. The  road  here  skirts  the 
lake,  soon  bringing  ns  to  a  charm- 
ing vista  as  we  ascend  to  the  foot 
of  the  steps  leading  to  the  temple. 
On  the  1.,  half-way  up  the  steps,  is 
a  small  shrine  dedicated  to  the 
Soga  Brothers.  The  main  temple, 
which  also  is  small,  contains 
votive  pictures  representing  these 
Brothers,  the  Gods  of  Luck, 
Yoritomo's  horse,  etc.  The  walk 
back  may  be  varied  by  taking 
a  wide  turning  to  the  1.  about 
the  middle  of  Moto  Hakone,  going 
up  the  stone  steps  nearly  as  far 
as  the  toWt,  and  then  taking  a 
turn  to  the  1.  which  is  the  Shindo, 
or  New  Boad,  to  Ashinoyu.  .  After 
following  this  for  about  |  m.,  we 
strike  a  path  to  the  r.,  which  is  the 
old  road  and  leads  to  the  Tokaido ; 
and  so  back  to  Hakone.  The  pass 
above  the  torii  commands  the  view 
so  often  seen  in  photographs. 

2.  Walk  to  the  End  of  the  Lake. 

— At  the  entrance  to  the  avenue 
leading  to  the  temple  of  Qongen, 
a  path  will  be  seen  1.  lower  down, 
by  following  which  a  walk  of  5 
m.  can  be  taken  to  the  baths  of 
Shin-yu  at  Umijiri,  the  N.  shore 
of  the  lake.  The  return  may  be 
agreeably  varied  by  taking  a  boat 
the  whole  way  back  to  Hakone, 
1  hr.  If  this  trip  be  reversed, 
the  shadow  of  the  large  trees  over- 
hanging the  lake  r.,  shortly  before 
reaching  Umijiri,  affords  a  nice  spot 
for  a  water  picnic. 

3.  Along  the  Siiknmo-gawa. — 
This  is  a  somewhat  rough  but  pleas- 
ant walk,  difficult  to  find  without 
a  guide.  The  stream  is  perpetually 
crossed  and  re-crossed,  and  some- 
times wading  is  unavoidable.  The 
path  finally  leads  out  at  the  vill.  of 
Hata,  where  kagos  can  be  obtained 
for  the  return  journey  vid  the 
Hakone  Pass.  At  the  beginning 
of  the  valley,  a  path  to  the  r.  leads 


to  Toshihama  on  the  coast.  It 
affords  pretty  peeps  of  Fuji  and 
the  lake ;  but  the  high  grass 
intercepts  the  view  from  the  top. 

4.  Walks  in  the  direction  of 
A  tain  i. —  Several  pleasant  walks 
can  be  taken  in  the  direction  of  the 
Ten  Province  Pass  and  Atami, 
notably  one  up  the  slope  of  Okoma- 
yama  and  over  Kazakoshi-yama, 
follo"\ving  the  boundary  line  of  the 
provinces  of  Sagami  and  Izu  to 
the  highest  point  of  the  Tokaido, 
where,  on  a  little  plateau,  the 
boundary  post  between  these  two 
provinces  is  placed;  and  back  to 
Hakone  by  the  Tokaido.  While 
crossing  the  plateau,  there  is  a  fine 
view  of  the  lake,  the  mountains 
surrounding  it,  and  Fuji  beyond, 
with  to  the  S.  the  Bay  of  Suruga, 
the  promontory  of  Izu,  the  towns 
dotting  the  Tokaido,  Ashitaka- 
yama,  and  far  away  in  the  distance 
the  Fujikawa  like  a  silver  streak, 
and  still  farther  the  long  point  of 
Omae-zaki  stretching  out  into  the 
ocean.    Distance  about  3^  m. 

Another  walk  in  the  same  gene- 
ral direction  is  past  the  pond  called 
Numa-ga-ike,  then  over  a  little 
ridge  separating  it  from  another 
pond  or  swamp  on  the  Suruga  side, 
called  Otama-ga-ike,  and  on  up 
the  mountain  slope  to  a  gap,  where 
a  turn  to  the  1.  should  be  taken  up 
through  the  grass  to  the  survey 
post.  The  summit  affords  an  ex- 
tensive view. 

But  of  all  walks  in  this  direction, 
the  most  delightful  is  that  to  the 
Ten  Province  Pass  (Jikkoku-toge 
or  Higane-tdge).  Those  intending 
to  picnic  there  should,  however, 
remember  to  take  water  with  them,' 
as  none  is  to  be  obtained  on  the 
way.  The  climb  is  for  the  most 
part  not  steep,  and  the  panorama 
from  the  summit,  especially  on  a 
fine  day  in  early  winter,  is  some- 
thing never  to  be  forgotten.  The 
top  of  the  ridge,  which  is  marked 
by  a  stone  known  as  the  Ten  Pro- 


The  Fukara  and  Nagao  Passes, 


107 


vince  Stone,  looks  down  on  the 
provinces  of  Izu,  Suruga,  Tot5mi, 
Koshu,  Kotsuke,  Musashi,  Shimosa, 
Kazasa,  Boshu,  and  Sagami.  Bays, 
peninsulas,  islands,  mountain- 
ranges,  lie  spread  out  in  entrancing 
variety  of  form  and  colour,  Fuji 
towering  up  magnificently  above 
all  the  rest.  The  distance  from 
Hakone  is  locally  estimated  at  5  riy 
but  mui^  be  less,  as  it  can  easily 
be  done  in  2^  hrs. 

[A  steep  descent  of  a  little  over 
3  m.  leads  from  the  top  down 
to  Atami.  There  is  also  a  path 
from  the  top  to  the  hamlet  of 
Izu-san^  distant  1  ri.'] 

6.  Hiraliama  on  the  lake. — A 
short  walk  may  be  taken  from  the 
Mishima  end  of  the  village  to  the 
foot  of  the  Hakone  Pass,  where 
there  is  a  path  leading  to  the 
shore  of  the  lake.  After  skirting 
the  latter,  it  leads  over  a  small 
hill  to  the  next  bay  called  Hira- 
hama.  Should  the  water  be  too 
high,  Hirahama  may  be  reached 
by  the  track  over  Hatahiki-yama. 

6.  Umidaira. — This  is  the  pla- 
teau rising  above  the  S.W.  shore 
of  the  lake,  from  which  an  exten- 
sive and  beautiful  view,  embracing 
many  of  the  points  seen  from  the 
Ten  Province  Pass,  is  obtained. 
Time  about  2  hrs.  A  track  leads 
down  through  the  grass  to  a  little 
bay  on  the  lake  near  the  Hiraishi, 
or  Flat  Stone,  whence  Hakone  can 
be  easily  reached  by  boat  which 
should  be  ordered  in  advance. 

7.  The  Subterranean  Water- 
Course  and  the  Fukara  Pasfl. — The 
Fukara  Pass  is  the  most  westerly 
of  three  that  lead  from  the  end  of 
Lake  Hakone  to  Fuji,  the  other 
two  being  the  Nagao  Pass  and  the 
Otome  Pass,  the  latter  already  des- 
cribed on  p.  103.  The  first  stage  on 
the  way  to  all  three  from  Hakone 
is  by  boat  nearly  to  the  end  of  the 
lake.  Close  to  the  spot  on  the 
shore  where    the    ascent    of    the 


Fukara  Pass  begins,  is  a  tunnel 
(suirmm),  through  which  a  portion 
of  the  waters  of  the  lake  is  carried 
to  several  villages  on  the  other 
side  of  the  mountain,  serving  to 
irrigate  their  rice-fields,  and  then 
flowing  on  to  form  the  waterfalls 
of  Sano.  This  subterranean  chan- 
nel is  said  to  be  entirely  artificial, 
the  local  account  being  that  it  was 
pierced  by  two  brothers,  who  bored 
through  the  mountain  from  op- 
posite sides  until  they  met  in  the 
middle.  The  walk  up  the  pass 
takes  .20  min.  The  exit  of  the 
tunnel  (umi  no  ana)  may  be  easily 
reached  from  the  top  of  the  pass, 
the  whole  expedition  from  the  boat 
and  back  again  taking  about  2  hrs. 
There  is  some  climbing  and  scram- 
bling to  be  done,  but  the  paths  are 
fairly  good  on  the  whole. 

8.  The  Nagao  Pass.— This  lies 
1  ri  7  cho  from  Umijiri.  The 
way  leads  first  across  the  Haya- 
kawa,  the  natural  outlet  of  the 
lake,  which  later  on  flows  past 
Miyanoshita;  then  along  a  broad 
level  cinder  path  to  the  foot  of 
the  pass,  and  finally  by  an  easy 
climb  of  12i  ^o  to  the  top.  The 
gap  at  the  summit  of  the  pass  com- 
mands a  complete  view  of  Fuji  from 
base  to  peak.  On  looking  back, 
the  eye  sweeps  across  the  plain  of 
Sengoku-hara  and  over  the  waters 
of  Hakone  Lake.  Kammuri-ga-take 
is  also  seen  to  advantage,  and  on  its 
slope  can  be  distinctly  traced  the  sol- 
fataras  of  Ojigoku.  A  more  exten- 
sive and  beautiful  view  is  had,  how- 
ever, by  ascending  the  hill  to  the 
1.  of  the  pass.  From  this  summit, 
not  only  Fuji,  but  the  promontory 
of  Izu,  with  Amagi-san,  the  whole 
of  the  fertile  plain  stretching  away 
to  the  r.  of  the  town  of  Mishima, 
the  rugged  peaks  of  Ashitaka,  the 
course  of  the  Fujikawa,  the  pro- 
montory of  Mio-no-Matsubara,  Ku- 
no-zan,  and  the  full  sweep  of  Suruga 
Bay  lie  at  the  spectator's  feet. 


108 


RoiUe  7. — The  Peninsula  of  Izu, 


BOUTE  7. 

The  Peninsula  op  Izu. 

1.   atami     and     neighbourhood. 

2.   hakonb    to    8huzenji    and 

8himoda.    3.  shimoda  to  atami 

by  the  coast.    4.  tu-ga-shima 

TO  ATAMI. 

1. — At  AMI  AND  Nbighboubhood. 

Atami  (Higuchi  Hotel,  foreign 
style)  is  a  favourite  winter  resort 
of  the  Japanese  nobility  and  higher 
official  class,  as  it  is  protected  by 
high  hills  from  the  northerly  and 
westerly  winds  which  prevail  at 
that  season  over  Japan.  The  whole 
stretch  of  coast  from  Kdzu  on  the 
Tokaido  Railway  to  Atami  partakes 
more  or  less  of  the  same  advantage ; 
and  the  soft  air,  the  orange-groves, 
and  the  deep  blue  sea  of  Odawara 
Bay,  combine  to  make  of  this  dis- 
trict the  Eiviera  of  Japan. 

Atami  is  most  easily  reached 
from  Yokohama  by  the  Tokaido 
Railway  as  far  as  Kozu,  1^  hr., 
and  then  by  jinrikisha  for  the  rest 
of  the  way,  nearly  5  hrs.  along  the 
coast. 

_  Itinerary. 

KOZU  to  :—  Ri.  Cho.  M. 

Odawara 1    28    4^ 

Hayakawa 10      f 

Nebukawa 1     20    3f 

Enoura   1     12    3| 

Yoshihama    1    32    4i 

Izu-san   2    12    5| 

ATAMI  18    U 

Total  9    24  23i 


The  road  is  delightfully  pictur- 
esque and  representatively  Japa- 
nese, leading  first  under  an  ancient 
avenue  most  of  the  way  to  Oda- 
wara, and  thence  up  and  down 
along  the  coast,  with  ever-changing 
views  of  sea  and  land  and  of  Yries 
Island  smoking  in  the  distance. 
The  little  peninsula  whose  neck  is 
crossed  about  half-way  is  called 
Cape  Manazuru. 


Travellers  approaching  Atami 
from  the  Kyoto  side  may  find  it  a 
convenient  saving  of  time  to  aUght 
at  Numazu  station,  and  thence  to 
proceed  to  Atami  over  the  hills, — a 
pretty  walk  of  about  5  hrs. ;  road 
practicable  also,  except  after  heavy 
rain,  for  jinrikishas  with  two  men. 
The  distance  is  estimated  at  7  ri. 
From  the  town  of  Mishima  to 
Atami  is  about  the  same.^  During 
most  of  the  ascent,  a  fine  near 
view  is  obtained  of  Fuji,  with 
to  the  1.  Amagi-san  and  the  lower 
ranges  of  the  peninsula  of  Izu, 
and  in  front  the  Bay  of  Numazu  at 
Fuji's  base.  The  view  from  the 
top  of  the  ridge  is  some^^hat  dis- 
appointing. 

A  third  way,  much  to  be  recom- 
mended to  good  walkers,  is  that 
from  Miyanoshita  via  Ashinoyu  to 
Hakone  (see  p.  101),  and  thence 
over  the  hiUs  by  the  Ten  Province 
Pass  (see  p.  106)  with  its  incom- 
parable view.  The  ascent  is  not 
very  steep,  but  the  descent  on  the 
Atami  side  is  short  and  abrupt. 
The  total  distance  from  Miyano- 
shita to  Atami  by  this  way  is  be- 
tween 6  And  7  ri. 

Fourthly  and  lastly,  Atami  may 
be  reached  by  small  steamer  from 
Kozu,  touching  at  Odawara  an<l 
Manazuru.  It  is  possible  that  some 
eccentric  persons  may  prefer  this 
means  of  approaching  it. 

The  curiosity  for  which  Atami 
is  noted  is  its  geyser  (O-yw),  which 
breaks  out  once  in  every  four  hours 
in  the  middle  of  the  town.  It  ori- 
ginally shot  straight  up  into  the 
air,  but  is  now  partially  enclosed, 
and  an  inhalation  house  {Kyuki- 
kwan)  has  been  erected  by  the  au- 
thorities for  patients  suffering 
from  affections  of  the  throat  and 
lungs,  the  salt  in  which  the  steam 
of  the  geyser  is  rich  being  benefi- 
cial in  such  cases.  The  elegant 
house  close  behind  the  Kyuki- 
kwan,  on  the  other  side  of  the 
small  creek  which  flows  through  the 
town,  is  a  villa  formerly  belonging 


Atami  and  Neighbourhood. 


109 


to  the  millionaire,  Mr.  Iwaeaki,  and 
now  the  property  of  His  Imperial 
Highness,  the  Crown  Prince.  The 
cHief  productions  of  Atami  are  a 
beautifully  delicate  kind  of  paper, 
called  gampishi,  literally  'wild- 
goose  skin  paper/  and  a  delicious 
and  wholesome  sweatmeat  called 
ame,  which  is  made  of  rice  or 
millet. 

The  best  walks  near  Atami  are : — 

1.  To  the  grove  of  Kinomiya,  a 
few  minutes'  distance  from  the 
hotel.  At  the  far-end  of  this  grove, 
are  some  of  the  finest  camphor- 
trees  (kusunoki)  in  Japan. 

2.  To  Uomi,  the  hut  visible  high 
up  on  the  cliff    which    shuts    in 
Atami  Bay  to  the  S.    It  is  a  steep 
walk    of    some    20  min.,  but  the 
lovely  view  from  the  top  amply 
repays  all  trouble.    The  name  Uo- 
mi,   lit.    'fish-outlook,'   refers    to 
the  use  to  which  this  post  of  ob^ 
eervation  is  put.    When  a  school 
of  bonitoe  is  expected — and  they 
frequently  visit  the  bay  in  enor- 
mous numbers — a  man  stands  on 
this   eminence,    whence    he    can 
clearly  see  down  to  a  great  depth 
in  the  water,  and  make  signs  to 
the  fishermen  below,  indicafing  to 
them  the  direction  in  which  it  will 
behest  to  turn. 

3.  To  the  hot  springs  of  Izn-san, 
\  ri.  They  are  situated  on  the 
rock  below  the  highway,  in  a  man- 
ner resembling  swallows'  nests. 

4.  To  Baienji,  a  pretty  park. 
This  is  a  pleasant  level  walk  of 
less  than  1  ri, 

6.  To  Tosawa,  i  hr.  climb  half- 
way up  Higane-san  to  a  beautiful 
grove  of  t^ees.  There  one  may 
torn  to  the  r.,  and  return  by  way 
of  the  vill.  of  Izu-san.  (This  is 
not  below  the  highway,  as  are  the 
hot  springs  of  Izu-san,  mentioned 
in  No.  3.) 

6.  To  the  little  port  of  AJiro 
{Inn,  Tabako-ya),  a  steep  but  very 
pretty  walk  over  the  hills,  return- 
ing, if  preferred,  by  boat.  The 
walk  takes  about  2i  hrs.,  the  return 


by  sea  less.  Ajiro,  which  lies  at 
the  S.  end  of  a  beautiful  bay,  can 
also  be  reached  from  Atami  by 
small  coasting  steamer. 

The  following  all  day  expeditions 
may  be  recommended : — 

7.  The  climb  up  Higane-san,  and 
the  return  down  a  steep  narrow 
gorge  r.  from  the  temple  there  to 
the  hot  springs  of  Tugawarai 
thence  back  (by  jinrikisha,  if  pre- 
ferred) vi&  Yoshihama  on  the 
Atami  main  road. 

8.  By  boat  to  Ito  (Wada),  6  ri 
down  the  coast,  and  thence  viA  the 
baths  of  Shishido  (Matsubara), 
where  a  guide  should  be  procured, 
to  Omuro-»an,  an  extinct  volcano 
much  resembling  Fuji  in  shape, 
and  therefore  often  called  by  the 
country  folk  Fuji  no  Imoto,  *  Fuji's 
Younger  Sister,'  or  Sengen-yama 
(Sengen  is  an  alternative  name  of 
the  Goddess  of  Fuji).  About  1^  hr. 
is  required  to  wa]k  from  Shishido 
to  the  base,  which  is  half-way  be- 
tween the  hamlets  of  Ikemura  and 
Totari ;  thfence  it  is  20  min.  more 
to  the  summit,  from  which  there 
is  a  fine  panorama.  The  crater  is 
about  250  yds.  in  diameter,  and 
some  80  ft.  deep.  The  bottom  is 
covered  with  scattered  blocks  of 
lava.  To  the  E.  of  this  volcano 
stands  another  smaller  one  called 
Komwro-zan, 

2. — From  Hakonb  to  the  Hot 
Springs  of  Shuzenji  and  over 
Amaqi-san  to  the  Port  op 
Shimoda  in  Izit. 

Itinerary, 

HAKONEto:—  Bi.  Cho.  M. 

Mishima   8  21  8f 

Ohito 3  32  9i 

Uryuno 6        i 

SHUZENJI 26  If 

Yu-ga-shima   ...  3  18  8^ 

Nashimoto   4  32  12 

SHIMODA 4  34  12 

Total 21      24    52f 


110 


Route  7. — The  Penmsula  of  Izu. 


This  is  a  two  or  three  days'  trip, 
which  should  be  arranged  in  such 
fashion  as  to  sleep  the  first  night 
at  Shuzenji,  the  second  at  Shi- 
moda ;  or  else  the  second  set  Yu-ga- 
shima,  and  the  third  at  Shimoda. 
It  is  possible  to  go  in  jinrikishas 
from  Mishima  to  Shuzenji,  and 
again  a  short  way  out  of  Shimoda. 
But  take  it  altogether,  the  road 
is  very  hilly,  and  scarcely  to  be  re- 
commended except  to  pedestrians, 
who  will  find  it  replete  with  natural 
beauty. 

The  first  stage,  as  far  as  Mishi- 
ma, takes  the  traveller  along  the 
old  roughly  paved  Tokaido,  which, 
soon  af^r  leaving  Hakone,  rises  to 
a  height  of  2,970  ft.  above  the  sea, 
and  then  again  descends.  About 
half-way  down  is  a  vantage-point 
1.,  commanding  a  fine  view  of  the 
country  E.  of  Numazu.  The  river 
Kanogawa  is  here  seen  wiuding 
between  groups  of  hills,  beyond 
which  rises  the  bolder  mass  of 
Amagi-san.     From 

Mishima  (Inns,  Sekoroku,  Saga- 
mi-ya)  to  a  vill.  called  Daiba,  the 
road  crosses  a  plain  near  the  head 
of  the  Gulf  of  Suruga.  .  At  Daiba  it 
turns  up  the  valley  of  the  Kano- 
gawa, passing  through  the  hamlet 
of  Ho  jo,  noted  in  history  as  the 
birthplace  of  the  founder  of  the 
great  Hojo  family,  who,  during  the 
13th  century  and  a  portion  of  the 
14th,  ruled  Japan  as  'Eegents' 
(Shikken)  in  the  name  of  the 
*  Puppet  Shoguns '  of  Kamakura. 
The  scenery  the  whole  way  up  the 
valley  is  extremely  pretty,  includ- 
ing, on  turning  back,  most  charm- 
ing views  of  Fuji.  A  striking 
object  on  the  road  is  the  overhang- 
ing rock  called  Jbyama,  which  is 
seen  to  the  r.  beyond  Hojo.  The 
pref  ectural  road,  which  has  hitherto 
been  followed,  is  abandoned  a  short 
way  out  of  Oliito  for  the  path  up 
the  1.  bank  of  the  Katsura-gawa 
leading  to 

Shuzenji  (Inn,  *Arai-ya).  De- 
lightfully situated  in  a  secluded 


valley,  this  place  is  resorted  to 
on  account  of  the  mineral  spring 
which  spurts  up  in  the  middle 
of  the  streajn  forming,  if  one 
may  so  say,  the  village  high 
street,  and  which  thus  allows  the 
bathers  to  enjoy  a  hot  and  a  cold 
bath  at  the  same  time,  according 
as  they  incline  their  bodies  a 
little  more  to  one  side  or  to  the 
other.  The  water  is  also  led  into 
the  inns  by  means  of  pipes.  A 
little  more  than  i  ri  after  leaving 
Shuzenji,  the  traveller  should  tell 
the  guide  to  lead  him  a  couple 
of  chd  off  the  main  road  to  visit 
the  Aaahi-no-taki,  a  cascade  of  about 
100  ft.  in  height,  which  tumbles 
down  over  the  rocks,  forming  a 
series  of  four  or  ^ve  falls.  All 
this  neighbourhood  is  full  of  hot 
springs,  those  of  8eko^no-taki  being 
the  most  notable  off  the  main  road 
(8  chO  from  Yu-ga-shima,  and  very 
picturesquely  situated).  On  the 
main  roskd  are  those  of 

Tu-ga-stlimii  (Inn,  Yumoto-ya, 
poor),  in  whose  vicinity — the  dis- 
tance is  some  30  chd — is  the  pretty 
cascade  of  Joren-taki,  formed  by 
the  waters  of  the  Kanogawa  fall- 
ing over  a  precipice  60  ft.  high. 
The  •  3i  ri  separating  Yu-ga-shima 
from  Nashiinoto  are  occupied  by 
the  ascent  and  descent  of  the 
Amagi-toge,  which  is  not  steep  for 
most  of  the  way,  as  the  path  does 
not  lead  over  the  highest  part  of 
Amagi-San.  Amagi-San,  it  should 
be  mentioned,  is  the  general  name 
given  to  the  whole  mountain  mass 
stretching  across  the  promon- 
tory of  Izu  from  E.  to  W.,  the 
loftiest  summit  of  which  is  called 
Banjiro.  Beyond  Nashimoto  the 
road  crosses  the  Konabe-toge,  a 
climb  of  18  chd,  and  after  passing 
Mitsukuri,  descends  a  pictui'esque 
valley,  well-cultivated  and  irrigated 
by  the  waters  of  the  Nozugawa,  a 
stream  which  flows  into  the  har- 
bour of  Shimoda,  and  which  from 
the  hamlet  of  Hongo  is  navigable  for 
fiat-bottomed  boats.    The  country 


Route  8. — Viies  Island, 


111 


all  around  is  beautifully  diversified, 
and  the  soil  carefully  cultivated, 
every  hill  being  laid  out  in  a  series 
of  terraces  planted  with  rice  and 
barley.  Near  Hongo  stands  the 
small  hamlet  of  Bendaiji,  noted  for 
its  hot  mineral  springs.  The  accom- 
modation, however,  is  poor.  Fur- 
ther on,  the  valley  widens  till  it 
forms  an  open  extensive  plain 
before  reaching 

Shimoda  (Intis,  Awaman^^ro,  Ma- 
tsumoto-ya),  a  compactly  built  and 
regularly   laid-out  town,   situated 
on   the  banks  of    the  Nozugawa. 
The  situation  of  Shimoda  is  such 
as  to  command  a  healthy  climate, 
owing  to  the  dryness  of  the  soil 
and  the  fresh    sea-breezes.      The 
harbour,  though  small,  is  safe  and 
convenient.    There  is  also  an  inner 
anchorage    for    small    junks    and 
boats,  which  is  connected  with  the 
Nozugawa.    It  is  artificially  con- 
structed by  means  of  dykes    and 
a   breakwater.      Shimoda    exports 
most  of  the  stone  used  for  the  new 
buildings    in    Tokyo.     The  stone 
comes  from  extensive  quarries,  or 
rather    mines,   near   the   vill.    of 
Kisami,  which  will  repay  a  visit. 

Shimoda  was'flrst  visited  in  1864  by  Com- 
modore Perry  and  the  ships  of  the  United 
States  sqaadron.  By  the  treaty  which  he 
concluded,  it  was  constituted  an  Open  Port 
for  American  shipping;  and  here  Mr. 
HarriB,  the  American  Minister,  resided 
until  the  substitution  of  Kaaagawa  as  a 
trading  port  in  1859. 

The  easiest  way  te  quit  Shimoda 
is  by  small  steamer  te  Atami. 

3. — Shimoda  to  Atami  by  the 
Coast. 

It  is  also  possible  to  complete  the 
round  of  the  peninsula  of  Izu  by 
following  the  path  which  skirts 
the  coast.  This  journey,  though 
fatiguing,  is  extremely  pretty,  and 
is  quite  off  the  beaten  track.  The 
path  continually  winds  up  and 
down  the  cliffs  along  the  sea-shore, 
passing  a  succession  of  picturesque 
nooks  and  bays.  The  itinerary  is 
as  foUoivs: 


SHIMODA  te :—         Ri.  Chd.  M. 

Hama  (hot  spring)...  1  28  4^ 

Inatori    4  10  loj 

Yawatano  8  29  9i 

Ite  (Wada)     3  10  8 

Usami     1  10  3 

Ajiro   2  —  5 

ATAMI 2  18  6 

Total  18  33  46 


From  Atami  te  Kozu  on  the  To- 
kaido  Railway  by  the  itinerary 
(reversed)  given  at  the  beginning 
of  this  route. 

4.— From  Yu-ga-shima  to  Atami. 

This  walk  from  the  centre  of  the 
peninsula  te  the  coast  offers  superb 
views.  The  itinerary  is  as  follows : 

YTJ-OA-SHIMAte:— J2i.  Chd.  M, 

Nagano —    20      1^ 

Harab5 2    —      5 

Hiekawa  1     19      3f 

Ito  (Wada)  2—5 

ATAMI    5    28     14 

Total 11     31    29 


ROUTE  8. 

Vkies  Island. 

Tries  Island,  called  Izu  no  Oshima 

by  the  Japanese,  is  the  largest  and 

most  accessible  of  the  Igu  no  Shichi- 

to,  or  'Seven  Isles  of  Izu,'  which 

streteh  away  for  over  100  miles  in 

a  southerly  direction    from    near 

the  entrance  of  Tokyo  Bay  te  33° 

lat.  N.    The  ever-smoking  volcano 

on  Yries  Island  is  sighted  by  all 

ships  bound  for  Yokohama. 

In  ancient  days  Eastern  Japan,  then 
semi-barbarous,  was  used  as  a  place  of 
banishment  for  criminals  expelled  from 
the  Central  part  of  the  Empire,— Nara, 
Kyoto,  and  their  environs,  where  the 
Mikado  held  his  Court.  When  the  main- 
land of   E.  Japan   became   settled,  the 


112 


Boute  8, — Tries  Island, 


islands  alone  continued  to  be  used  as  con- 
vict settlements,  and  they  retained  this 
character  till  quite  recent  times.  There 
were  exiles  living  on  Yries  as  late  as  the 
end  of  the  18th  centuiy.  On  English 
charts,  Hachijo  (misspelt  Fatsisio),  the 
southernmost  of  the  group,  is  sometimes 
stated  to  be  'a  place  of  exile  for  the 
grandees  of  Japan.'  But  it  is  a  mistake 
to  suppose  that  Hachijo  was  peculiar  in 
this  respect,  or  that  '  grandees '  were 
the  only  class  of  persons  transported 
thither.  The  most  noted  of  the  many 
exiles  to  Yries  was  the  famous  archer 
Tametomo,  who  was  banished  there  in 
1166,  and  whose  prowess  forms  a  favourite 
subject  with  Japanese  romance  writers 
and  artists.  His  picture  may  be  seen  on  the 
bock  of  some  of  the  Japanese  bank-notes. 
The  current  English  name  of  Yries  Island 
is  derived  from  that  of  Captain  Martin 
Grerritsz  Yries,  a  Dutch  navigator  who 
discovered  it  in  1648.  Yries  Island  was 
noted  until  recent  years  for  its  peculiar 
dialect  and  for  the  retention  of  curious 
old  customs.  But  few  remnants  of  these 
now  survive,  excepting  the  coiffure  of  the 
women  and  their  habit  of  carrying  loads 
on  the  head. 

Vries  Island  has  no  regnlar  and 
but  little  irregular  steam  commu- 
nication with  the  outer  world.  The 
best  way  to  reach  it  is  by  fishing- 
boat  from  Misaki  (see  p.  60), 
whence  the  fare  with  5  sailors 
should  be  about  10  yen.  The  wea- 
ther being  favourable,  any  point 
on  the  coast  of  the  island  may 
be  reached  in  from  6  to  8  hrs.  The 
island  may  also  be  reached  from 
Shimoda  or  Ajiro  in  Izu,  or  by  junk 
from  Reigan-jima,  Tokyo.  The 
native  craft  cannot,  however,  be 
recommended  to  any  persons  un- 
acquainted with  the  language  or 
unaccustomed  to  Japanese  ways ; 
and  the  many  delays  and  dis- 
appointments caused  by  the  un- 
certainty of  the  communication 
with  the  mainland  are  hardly 
counterbalanced,  except  to  the 
investigator  of  volcanic  phenomena, 
by  such  interest  as  the  island 
possesses.  The  best  season  for  the 
trip  is  the  early  spring,  the  next 
being  the  winter. 

There  are  six  villages  on  the 
island,  all  situated  on  the  coast, 
and  named  respectively  Motomura 
(more  correctly  Niijima),  Nomashi^ 


Sashikiji,  Habu,  Senzu,  and  Okada. 
Of  these  Motomura  is  the  best  to 
stop  at,  whilst  Habu  has  the  ad- 
vantage of  possessing  a  small  har- 
bour— the  crater  of  an  ancient 
submerged  volcano — ^and  is  there- 
fore the  easiest  to  take  ship  from 
when  departing.  There  are  no  inns 
on  Yries  Island,  excepting  a  poor  one 
at  Motomura ;  but  accommodation 
can  be  obtained  at  the  house  of  the 
Narnuhi  (Headman)  of  each  village. 
The  distances  along  the  road  or 
path  connecting  the  villages  are 
approximately  as  follows  (the  es- 
timate is  that  g^ven  by  the  local 
officials,  and  seems  to  be  a  rather 
liberal  one) : — 

Ri.  Cho,  M. 

SenzutoOkada    1  —  2^ 

Okada  to  Motomura    ...  2  —  5 

Motomura  to  Nomashi...  1  —  2^ 

Nomashi  to  Sashikiji  ...  3  —  7^ 

Sashikiji  to  Habu —  19  U 

For  the  most  part  the  road  runs 
at  some  distance  from  the  coast, 
which  it  only  rejoins  on  nearing 
the  villages ;  and  there  are  also  a 
number  of  paths  in  all  directions 
used  by  the  inhabitants  for  bring- 
ing down  fire-wood  from  the  hill- 
sides. Usually  the  way  Hes 
through  a  low  wood  of  camellia, 
skimmia,  and  other  evergreens, 
and  sometimes,  as  for  instance 
between  Motomura  and  Nomashi, 
along  a  charming  fern-clad  dell. 
Pheasants  are  abundant. 

There  is  no  road  round  the  E. 
coast  from  Habu  to  Senzu,  but  the 
distance  is  approximately  6  ri,  and 
the  way  leads  over  the  desolate 
slope  of  the  volcano  by  which  the 
whole  centre  of  the  island  is  occu- 
pied. The  name  of  the  volcano  is 
Mihara,  2,500  ft.  high.  From  its 
summit  smoke  perpetually  issues, 
and  it  is  subject  to  frequent  erup- 
tions. The  nearest  point  on  the 
coast  to  the  summit  of  the  mountain 
is  Nomashi,  but  the  ascent  may  be 
made  equally  well  from  Motomura. 

The  climb  requires  only  2  hrs.. 


Volcano  of  Mihara, 


118 


and   the  whole  expedition,  includ- 
in^  stoppages,  can  easily  be  made 
during  a  forenoon.  Passing  through 
the   village,  the  ascent,  as  made 
from    Motomura,    leads    for    the 
first  hour  through  the  wood,  and 
then      emerges    on     to     volcanic 
scorise,  where  nothing  grows  but 
small    tufts    of  grass    and  dwarf 
alder.     The  eminence  seen  ahead 
to  tlie  1.  and  called  Kagan^-bata 
is  not  the  summit  of  the  mountain, 
but  only  a  portion  of  the  waU  of  an 
immense    ancient   crater,    in    the 
midst  of  which  stands  the  present 
cone^  with  its  much  smaller  though 
still  considerable  dimensions.  From 
this   point  it  is  a    five    minutes' 
walk   to  the    lip  of    the    ancient 
crater,  which  here  forms  a  flat  oval 
waste  of  minute  scorisB,  with  stones 
scattered   here    and    there.      Its 
greatest  length  on  this  side  is  esti- 
mated at  nearly  a  mile,  and  it  is 
surrounded  by  low  broken  hillocks 
of   lava^  against  whose  sides  the 
sand  is  pHed  up.    Half  an  hour's 
walk    across  this    desolate  waste, 
where  not  even  a  blade  of  grass  is 
to  be  seen,  brings  us  to  the  little 
torii  marking  the  Nomashi  approach 
to  the  mountain,  and  forming  the 
limit  beyond  which  women  are  not 
allowed   to    proceed.      From    this 
point  there  is  a   fine    view.      In 
front,  and  most  conspicuous  of  all, 
are  the  other  islands  and  islets  of 
the  group,  the  curious  pyramidal 
TosMma,  with  Shikine  and  K5zu 
behind;  to  the  1.  of  Toshima  the 
longer  and  lower  outline  of  Niijima, 
with  little  Udoma  in  front.  To  the  1. 
again,  but  considerably  more  dis- 
tajit,    are    the    larger    islands    of 
Miyake     and    Mikura,    while    on 
exceptionally  clear  days  the  outline 
of  Hachijo — so  at  least  it  is  asserted 
— can    be  descried.      To  the    W. 
are    seen    Amagi-san    and    other 
portions  of  the  peninsula  of  Izu, 
the  towering  cone  of_Fuji,  with  the 
lesser  Hakone  and  Oyama  ranges ; 
to  the  N.  Misaki  in  Sagami,  and  to 
the  N.E.  the  outline  of  the  peninsula 


of  Boshu,  which  shuts  in  Tokyo 
Bay  from  the  open  Pacific.  The 
cHmb  hence  up  to  the  top  of  the 
mountain  takes  ^  hr. 

Mihara  may  also  be  ascended 
from  Habu  or  from  Senzu,  the 
climb  on  that  side  of  the  island 
being,  however,  much  longer  and 
more  difficult. 

Excepting  the  ascent  of  the 
volcano,  there  are  few  walks  in  the 
island  deserving  of  mention.  The 
collector  of  ferns  will,  however, 
find  numerous  and  beautiful  species, 
not  only  between  Motomura  and 
Nomashi,  but  also  at  a  place  called 
Bdzvrga-Hora,  i.e.,  the  Priest's  Dell, 
about  1  m.  out  of  Habu  in  the 
direction  of  Senzu.  A  spare  day  at 
Habu  may  also  be  devoted  to  walk- 
ing along  the  coast  towards  Senzu ; 
but  the  vapoinr  spring  situated  on 
the  mountain-side  between  the  two 
places,  of  which  the  visitor  will  be 
told  by  the  natives,  is  at  a  distance 
— 5  ri — which  makes  it  difficult  of 
access  in  one  day,  on  account  of  the 
arduous  nature  of  the  ground ;  and 
there  is  not  even  a  shed  in  which  to 
take  shelter  from  the  weather.  It 
is  resorted  to  in  cases  of  wounds 
and  bruises,  the  friends  of  the  sick 
person  erecting  some  temporary 
cover.  Futago-yama,  the  double* 
crested  mountain,  whose  red  hue, 
caused  by  the  presence  of  brittle 
lava  of  that  colour,  is  so  conspicuous 
from  Habu,  is  a  mere  spur  of  the 
volcano,  and  has  no  special  in- 
terest. 


114 


Eoute  9, — Fnji  and  yeighhourliood. 


ROUTE  9. 
Ftjji  and  Neighboubhood. 

\,  genebal  in70buation.  2.  as- 
cent fbom  gotekba  station. 
3.  ascent  fbom  htjbayama.  4. 
ascent  fbom  st7ba8hibi.  6.  as- 
cent fbom  toshiba.  6.  ascent 
fbom  hito-ana.  7.  ascent  fbom 
sttyama.  8.  summit  of  fuji.  9. 
cibcuit  of  fuji  half-wat  up. 
10.  cibcuit  of  the  base,  cave  of 
hito-ana,  kami-ide  watebfall8. 

1. — Gbnebal  Infobmation. 

Time.  Mere  hurried  ascent  of 
Fuji  and  back  to  Yokohama,  1  day 
and  1  night ;  including  circuit  of 
base,  3  to  4  days. 

The  pleasantest  plan  is  to  com- 
bine the  ascent  of  Fuji  with  a  visit 
to  the  Miyanoshita-Hakone  dis- 
trict, giving  at  least  a  week  to  the 
entire  trip,  and  climbing  the 
mountain  during  whichever  por- 
tion of  that  time  seems  to  promise 
the  most  settled  weather.  The 
ascent  can  only  be  made  between 
(approximately)  the  15th  July  and 
10th  September,  the  huts  to  ac- 
commodate pilgrims  being  closed 
during  the  rest  of  the  year.  The 
best  time  is  from  the  25th  July  to 
the  10th  August. 

The  best  way  to  reach  Fuji  from 
Yokohama  is  to  take  the  Tokaido 
Railway  as  far  as  Gotemba  Sta- 
tion, 3  hrs.,  where  guides  and 
horses  can  be  engaged,  and  rough 
quilts  and  charcoal  to  ward  off  the 
cold  air  at  night  in  the  huts  on 
the  mountain  top  can  be  procured. 
The  traveller  should  bring  his  own 
food.  Persons  coming  up  the  To- 
kaid5  from  the  direction  of  Kobe 
and  Kyoto  should  alight  either  at 
Iwabuchi  or  at  Suzukawa  (see 
Route  38),  and  ascend  from  Mura- 
yama.  Those  coming  from  Kofu 
will  ascend  from  Yoshida.  It  is 
also  possible  to  ascend  Fuji  from 


Subashiri  on  the  E.  side,  which 
indeed  was  the  favourite  route  be- 
fore the  opening  of  the  railway, 
and  is  still  adopted  by  many ;  also 
from  Suyanuk,  S.  £.,  and  Hito-ana, 
S.  W. ;  but  these  last  two  have 
nothing  special  to  recommend  them. 
Details  of  the  ascent  from  Gotem- 
ba Station,  etc.,  are  given  below. 
Numbers  of  travellers  prefer  to 
reach.  Fuji  from  Miyanoshita  or 
Hakone,  by  walking  to  Gotemba 
Station  over  the  Otome-toge  (see  p, 
103).  In  this  case  they  can  provide 
themselves  with  all  necessaries  at 
one  of  the  Miyanoshita  hotels.  It 
is  always  advisable  to  take  plenty 
of  warm  clothing,  as  the  tempera- 
ture falls  below  freezing  point  at 
night  on  the  summit  of  the  moun- 
tain even  during  the  hottest  period 
of  summer.  It  is  also  advisable  to 
take  an  extra  supply  of  food,  as 
pai'ties  have  occasionally  been 
detained  on  the  mountain  side  by 
stress  of  weather,  unable  either  to 
reach  the  summit  or  to  descend  to 
the  base.  It  is  possible,  by  sleeping 
at  Gotemba  Station  or  at  Mura- 
yama,  and  starting  at  dawn,  to 
ascend  to  the  summit  and  descend 
again  in  a  single  day  (in  local  Japa- 
nese parlance  hi-yamay  that'  is 
*  day-mountain*).  Counting  the 
working  day  as  having  15  hrs.  (4 
A.M.  to  7  P.M.),  this  would  allow  11 
hrs.  for  the  ascent,  including  short 
stoppages,  1  hr.  at  the  top,  alid  3 
hrs.  for  the  descent.  The  shortest 
time  in  which  the  ascent  and  des- 
cent have  been  known  to  be  made, 
is  11  hrs.  37  min.,  including  all 
stoppages ;  6  hrs.  27  min.  was  the 
actual  time  of  ascent,  and  2  hrs.  2 
min.  that  of  descent.  But  persons 
less  desirous  of  *  breaking  the  re- 
cord' than  of  really  seeing  what 
they  have  come  so  far  to  see,  are 
strongly  urged  to  pursue  the  follow- 
ing course: — Cleave  Gotemba  Sta- 
tion or  Murayama  before  daylight 
— say  at  2  a.m. — ^thus  providing 
the  chance  of  a  good  sunrise  on 
the  way  up.    After  sunrise,  do  the 


General  Information, 


115 


rest  of  the  ascent  slowly,  reaching 
the  summit  about  midday.  Having 
establishing  himself  in  one  of  the 
huts  on  the  summit,  the  traveller 
should  go  down  into  the  crater,  make 
the  round  of  the  crater,  and  spend 
the  night  at  the  top.  This  will 
afford  the  chance  of  a  sunset  and 
of  a  second  sunrise,  after  which  the 
descent  can  be  at  once  begun.  The 
descent  will  take  most  people  from 
4^  to  5  hrs.  The  great  advantage 
of  this  plan  is  that  it  multiplies 
the  chances  of  a  good  view  from 
the  summit, — such  views  being 
much  more  often  obtained  at  sun- 
rise and  sunset  than  in  the  middle 
of  the  day/  and  being  by  no  means 
certain  at  any  time. 

Ajyropoa  of  views,  may  be  men- 
tioned the  Japanese  term  Fvji-mi 
ju-san-shii,  that  is,  the  Thirteen 
Provinces  from  which  Fuji  is 
visible.  These  are  Musashi,  Bd- 
shu,  Kazusa,  Shimosa,  Hitachi, 
Shimotsuke,  Eotsuke,  Shinshu, 
Koshu,  Totomi,  Suruga,  Izu,  and 
Sagami.  The  map  of  these  pro- 
vinces is  an  excellent  specimen 
of  old-fashioned  Japanese  carto- 
graphy. A  very  slight  acquaintance 
with  the  written  characters  will 
make  it  one  of  the  most  useful 
maps  to  travel  with. 

Fuji  is  much  more  easily  ascend- 
ed than  many  mountains  far  in- 
ferior in  height,  as  it  presents  no 
obstacles  in  the  shape  of  rocks  or 
undergrowth.  The  first  6,000  ft. 
of  the  ascent  can  moreover  be 
performed  on  horseback,  after 
which  the  accomplishment  of  the 
remainder  is  merely  a  question  of 
steady  perseverance.  The  distance 
to  the  summit  from  the  point 
called  Uma-gaeshi,  is  unequally 
divided  into  ten  parts  called  go 
(the  unit  being  oddly  enough  a  shd, 
which  is  a  measure  of  capacity 
containing  about  1^  quarts),  which 
are  subdivided  in  some  cases  into 
halves  called  go-shaku.  The  first 
station  is  thus  ichi-gd-me,  the  second 
ni-go-me,  and  so  on,  the  last  before 


the  summit  is  reached  being  ku-go- 
me,  or  No.  9.  One  explanation 
given  by  the  Japanese  of  this  pecu- 
liar method  of  calculation  is  that 
the  mountain  resembles  in  shape 
a  heap  of  dry  rice  poured  out  of  a 
measure,  and  that  consequently  its 
subdivisions  must  correspond  to 
the  fractions  of  the  latter.  How- 
ever this  may  be,  the  go  is  used  as 
a  division  of  distance  in  other 
parts  of  Japan,  especially  in  Satsu- 
ma.  At  most  of  these  stations,  as 
as  also  at  the  top,  are  huts  where 
accommodation  for  the  night,  boiled 
rice,  and  water  can  be  obtained. 

The  number  of  coolies  required 
wiU  of  course  depend  on  the  amount 
of  baggage  to  be  carried.  When 
ladies  are  making  the  ascent,  it  is 
advisable  to  have  a  spare  man  or 
two  or  help  them  when  tired. 
Stout  gaiters  are  recommended  to 
be  worn  during  the  descent,  to 
prevent  sand  and  ashes  from  get- 
ting inside  the  boots. 

Fuji,  often  called  Fuji-tan^  that  is 
*  Mount  Fuji,'  and  by  the  poets  Fuji-no- 
yama,  that  is  '  the  Mountain  of  Fuji,' 
whence  the  form  Fusiyama  often  used  by 
Europeans,  stands  between  the  provinces 
of  Suruga  and  Koshtl,  and  is  the  highest, 
the  most  beautiful,  and  the  most  famous 
mountain  in  Japan.  The.  height  of  Ken- 
ga-mine,  its  loftiest  peak,  has  been  vari- 
ously estimated  at  12,234  ft.  (£[nipping) ; 
12,341  ft.  (Chaplin)  J  12,360  ft.  (Favre- 
Brandt) ;  12,366  ft.  (Stewart) ;  12,400— 
12,460  (Milne) ;  12,4.S7  ft,  (Rein). 

Though  now  quiescent,  Fuji  must  still 
be  accounted  a  volcano.  Frequent  men- 
tion is  made  in  Japanese  literature  of  the 
smoke  of  Fuji,  which,  if  the  expressions 
used  by  poets  may  be  taken  as  indicating 
facts,  must  have  formed  a  constant  feature 
in  the  landscape  at  least  as  late  as  the 
14th  century.  A  hundred  years  earlier  it 
seems,  however,  to  have  been  already  less 
violent  than  the  discharge  from  Asama- 
yama  in  Shinshtl.  An  author  who  flou- 
rished about  the  end  of  the  9th  century 
saj7S  :  *  There  is  a  level  space  at  the  sum- 
mit, about  one  ri  square,  having  a  depres- 
sion in  the  centre  shaped  like  a  cauldron, 
at  the  bottom  of  which  is  a  pond.  This 
cauldron  is  usually  filled  with  vapour  of  a 
pure  green  (or  blue)  colour,  and  the  bot- 
tom appears  like  boiling  water.  The 
steam  is  visible  at  a  great  distance  from 
the  mountain.  In  967  a  small  mountain 
was  formed  at  the  eastern  base  of  Fuji.' 
This  was  probably  the  small  hump  called 


116 


Route  P. — Fuji  and  Neighbourhood, 


Ko-Fuji,  on  the  r.  of  the  second  station  on 
the  Suyama  ascent.  A  traveller's  journal 
of  the  year  1021  speaks  of  smoke  rising 
from  the  slightly  flattened  summit,  while 
at  night  fire  was  seen  to  issue  from  the 
crater.  Even  at  the  present  day,  small 
quantities  of  steam  continue  to  issue 
through  the  ashes  on  the  E.  or  Subashiri 
Bide  ot  the  mountain,  just  outside  the  lip 
of  the  crater. 

Fuji  stands  by  itself,  rising  with 
one  majestic  sweep  from  a  plain 
almost  surrounded  by  mountains. 
The  S.  side  slopes  right  down  to 
the  sea,  its  outline  being  broken 
only  on  the  S.E.  by  the  rugged 
peaks  of  Ashitaka-yama.  On  the 
N.  and  W.  rise  steep  granite 
Ganges,  stretching  away  from  the 
Misaka-toge  nearly  to  the  junction 
of  the  Shiba-kawa  with  the  Fuji- 
kawa. Against  these  mountains 
the  showers  of  ashes  which  were 
ejected  from  the  crater  have  piled 
themselves  up,  and  confined  in 
their  separate  basins  the  waters  of 
the  Motosu,  Shoji,  and  other  lakes. 
The  E.  side  is  shut  in  by  volcanic 
mountains  of  undetermined  origin, 
beginning  near  Subashiri,  and  ex- 
tending southwards  into  the  penin- 
sula of  Izu.  Among  them  lie  Lake 
Hakone,  with  the  numerous  hot 
springs  of  Miyanoshita,  Ashino- 
yu,  Atami,  and  their  neighbour- 
hood. The  base  of  the  mountain 
is  cultivated  up  to  a  height  of 
about  1,500  ft.,  above  which  spreads 
a  wide  grassy  moorland  to  4,000  ft., 
where  the  forest  commences.  The 
upper  limit  of  this  varies  consider- 
ably, being  lowest  on  the  E.  side, 
namely,  about  5,500  ft.  on  the 
ascent  from  Suyama,  and  7,900  on 
the  Murayama  side.  But  on  the 
W.  face,  between  the  Yoshida  and 
Murayama  ascents,  and  looking 
down  over  the  plain  round  Hito- 
ana,  it  must  erfcend  as  high  as 
9,000  ft.  or  more.  This  difference 
is  no  doubt  due  in  a  great  measure 
to  the  comparatively  recent  dis- 
turbance on  the  S.E.  side,  which 
caused  the  present  conformation  of 
Hoei-zan,  when  the  greater  part 
of  the  ashes  thrown  out  fell  in  the 


direction  of  Suyama,  destroying 
the  forest,  and  leaving  a  desert  waste 
which  only  a  long  lapse  of  years 
can  again  cover  with  vegetation. 
To  the  same  cause,  namely,  com- 
paratively recent  volcanic  action, 
must  be  ascribed  the  almost  entire 
absence  of  those  Alpine  plants 
which  abound  on  the  summits  of 
other  high  mountains  in  the  neigh- 
bourhood, such  as  Ontake,  Shirane 
in  Koshii,  and  Yatsu-ga-take. 
Above  the  forest  lies  a  narrow  zone 
of  bushes,  chiefly  dwarfed  larch. 
A  few  species  of  hardy  plants  are 
found  up  to  a  height  of  10,000  ft. 
on  some  parts  of  the  cone. 

2. — Ascent  fbom  Gotemba 
Station. 
Gotemba  Station  (Inn,  Yoshiji- 

ma-ya)  is  12  cho  from  the  vill.  of 
Gotemba;  and  there  is  no  longer 
any  necessity  for  going  to  the 
latter  and  thence  on  to  Subashiri, 
as  was  the  general  practice  in  pre- 
railway  times,  there  being  now  a 
direct  and  shorter  way  up  the 
mountain  from  the  Station  by  what 
is  called  the  Nakabata  route, 
avoiding  both  those  villages.  If 
the  traveller  intends  to  spend  the 
night  at  Gotemba  Station,  he 
should  try  to  arrive  early,  so  as  to 
avoid  difficulty  in  obtaining  accom- 
modation at  the  inn.  In  order  to 
economise  one's  strength,  it  is 
advisable  to  take  horses  for  the  first 
2i  hrs.  of  the  ascent  across  an 
open  and  gently  rising  country. 
This  takes  one  beyond  Uma-gae- 
shi,  where  horses  are  supposed  to  be 
left,  to  Tarobo  (also  called  Ko- 
mitake),  where  they  mibst  be  left.* 

At  Tarobo  (so-called  from  a 
goblin  who  is  there  worshipped), 
staves  are  sold  to  help  climbers  on 
their  way  up.  These  staves  are 
eng^raved  with  the  name  of  the 


*  Uma-ffoeshi,  lit.  *  horse  send  back,*  ia 
the  general  name  for  that  point  on  a 
mountain  beyond  which  it  is  impossible 
to  ride. 


Ascent  from  Viwiotis  Sides'. 


117 


mountain,  and  can  have  a  further 
inscription  added  by  the  priests 
who  dwell  inside  the  crater. 

Though  Fuji,  as  already  stated, 
is  theoretically  divided  on  all  its 
sides  into  ten  parts,  some  of 
the  stations  no  longer  exist  in 
practice — that  is,  have  no  rest- 
huts — while  others  are  subdivided. 
On  the  Gotemba  ascent,  only  sta- 
tions 2i,  3,  4,  6,  7,  8,  and  10  (the 
top)  exist.  Nos.  3  and  4  (san-go 
and  shi-go)  are  the  best,  and  No.  6 
(roku-go)  is  fair.  This  should  be 
borne  in  mind,  in  case  of  its  being 
necessary  to  call  a  halt  for  the 
night  midway. 

From  No.  2^  to  3  the  path  skirts 
Hoei-zan,  where  that  from  Suyama 
joins  in  1.,  and  the  steep  portion  of 
the   ascent  begins.    Above  No.  7 
the  climb  becomes  more  fatiguing 
still,  being  now  over  loose  cinders. 
.  Above  No.  8,  patches  of  snow  will 
probably  be  found  in  rifts  in  the 
lava  rock ;  but  there  are  nowhere 
any  actual   snow-fields  to  be  tra- 
versed.   At  No.  10 — ^the  tcfp — there 
are  three  stone  huts,  fairly  roomy 
and  comfortable.     Should  they  all 
be  occupied  by  pilgrims,  the  travel- 
ler must  walk  round  to  the  huts  on 
the  Subashiri  side  of  the  lip  of  the 
crater,  only  a  couple  of  hundred 
yards  distant. 

The  descent  as  far  as  No.  7  is 
the  same  as  the  ascent.  At  No.  7, 
it  diverges  to  the  r.  down  a  glissade 
(Jap.  hashiri)  of  loose  sand,  over 
which  one  may  skim  at  such  a  rate 
as  to  reach  No.  2^  in  less  than  1 
hr.  From  Tarobo  onwards,  the 
descent  will  occupy  nearly  as  much 
time  as  was  required  for  the  as- 
cent. The  entire  journey  down 
from  the  summit  to  Gotemba 
Station  can  be  accompHshed  in  4 
hrs. 

3. — Ascent,  from  Mubayaha. 

From  Marayama  (Inn,  by  Fuji 
Soshiro)  to  the  Uma-gaeshi,  or 
riding  limit  on  this  side  of  the 
mountain,  is  a  distance  of  3  ri  8  chd. 


Thence  onward  it  is  necessary  to 
walk.  Of  the  various  stations.  No. 
5  is  the  most  to  be  recommended, 
though  all  are  fair,  the  ascent  from 
Murayama  having  long  been  that 
most  patronised  by  the  native 
pilgrims,  and  therefore  styled  the 
Omote-guclii,  or  '  Front  Entrance,' 
to  the  mountain. 

4.— ASGENT   FROM    SUBASHIRI. 

At  Subashiri,  the  inn  generally 
patronised  by  foreigners  is  Yone- 
yama.  Yamada-ya  also  is  fair. 
The  road  to  the  Uma-gcbeshi  on 
this  side  leads  for  2  ri  up  a  broad 
avenue  through  the  forest,  whence 
it  is  another  2  ri  to  a  place  called 
Chujiki-ba,  where  a  halt  for  re- 
freshments is  generally  made.  This 
is  8  chd  below  station  No.  1.  The 
best  stations  are  49,  6,  and  especi- 
ally No.  8.  At  No.  9  is  a  small 
shrine  known  as  Mukai  Sengen,  that 
is  '  the  Goddess  of  Fuji's  Welcome,' 
intimating  to  the  weary  wayfarer 
that  he  is  nearly  approaching  the 
goddess's  sanctum. 

5. — Ascent  from  Yoshida. 

Tosh  id  a  is  an  unusually  long 
village,  divided  into  an  upper  por- 
tion (Kami  Yoshida)  and  a  lower 
portion  (Shimo  Yoshida).  From 
Kami  Yoshida  (Inn,  Kogiku)  the 
way"  to  Uma-gcieshi,  the  2nd  sta- 
tion, as  far  as  which  it  is  possible 
to  ride,  lies  up  an  avenue.  The 
upper  edge  of  the  forest  is  not 
quitted  till  No.  5  is  reached.  Thus 
the  view  on  the  way  up  is  less 
good  by  this  route  than  on  the 
Gotemba  and  Murayama  sides. 

6. — Ascent  from  Hito-ana. 

The  ascent  from  Hito-ana  (Inn, 
Akaike  Keikichi)  is  laborious,  and 
the  view  much  spoilt  by  the 
dense  forest  through  which  the 
track  lies.  It  is  therefore  not 
recommended.  Travellers  wishing 
to  visit  the  beautiful  waterfalls  of 
Kami-ide  (see  p.  121)  might,  how- 


118 


Route  9. — Fwji  mid  Neighbourhood. 


ever,  find  it  worth  their  while  to 
descend  on  this  side.  If  their  lug- 
gage is  light,  they  can  take  it  with 
them  over  the  mountain.  If  not, 
they  must  allow  plenty  of  time  for 
sending  it  round  the  base. 

7. — Ascent  prom  Sutama. 

This  is  an  alternative  way  for 
persons  staying  at  Hakone,  who  can 
reach  Suyama  vik  the  Lake  and 
the  Fukara  Pass  in  6  to  8  hrs. 
Coolies  for  the  whole  trip,  includ- 
ing the  ascent  of  Fuji,  should  be 
engaged  at  Hakone,  as  the  re- 
sources of  Suyama  are  limited, 
though  there  is  a  tea-house  (Wa- 
tanabe  Hideo).  But  the  ascent 
from  Gotemba  Station  is  to  be 
preferred.  The  path  up  Fuji  from 
Suyama  joins  the  path  up  from 
Gotemba  at  station  No.  3. 

8. — Summit  op  Fuji. 

The  summit  of  the  mountain 
consists  of  a  series  of  peaks  sur- 
rounding the  crater,  the  diameter 
of  which  is  not  far  short  of  2,000 
ft.  The  descent  into  it,  down  the 
loose  talus  of  rock  and  cinders 
close  to  the  huts  at  the  top  of  the 
Murayama  ascent,  is  quite  easy; 
still  it  is  advisable  to  take  a  guide. 
The  bottom  is  reached  in  20  min. 
The  floor,  which  is  formed  of 
cinders,  inclines  slightly  from  W. 
to  E.,  and  is  intersected  by  small 
stream-beds,  which  at  the  E.  end 
terminate  among  the  loosely  piled 
lava  masses  forming  the  core  of  the 
mountain.  All  round,  except  where 
the  descent  is  made,  rise  precipi- 
tous rocky  walls,  from  which  large 
pieces  detach  themselves  from  time 
to  time  with  a  loudxjrackling  sound 
like  musketry.  On  the  W.  side, 
immediately  under  Ken-ga-mine, 
there  is  usually  a  large  snow-slope. 
The  depth  has  been  variously  cal- 
culatedat  416  ft.,  548  ft.,  and 584  ft. 
The  return  to  the  edge  will  take 
about  25  min. 

Before  dawn  the  pilgrims  betake 


themselves  to  Ken-ga-mine,  the 
peak  on  the  W.  of  the  crater, 
and  the  true  summit  of  the  moun- 
tain, to  await  the  sun's  rising.  As 
the  luminary  approaches  the  hori- 
zon and  all  the  clouds  about  it 
glow  with  the  most  brilliant  hues 
of  red  flame,  the  feeling  of  longing 
expectation  seems  almost  to  over- 
come them;  but  as  soon  as  the 
burniner  disc  appears,  they  greet  it 
devoutly,  rubbing  their  chapleta 
between  their  hands  and  muttering 
prayers  to  the  great  deity. 

Ken-ga-mine  commands  a  mar- 
vellously extensive  view.  To  the 
S.  stretches  the  Gulf  of  Suruga, 
shut  in  on  the  E.  by  the  lofty 
promontory  of  Izu,  and  confined  on 
the  W.  by  Miozaki  at  the  termi- 
nation of  the  long  range  divid- 
ing the  valley  of  the  Abekawa  from 
that  of  the  Fujikawa.  S.W.  is  the 
broad  pebbly  bed  of  the  Fujikawa, 
its  course  above  the  point  where  it 
crosses  the  Tokaido  being  hidden 
by  the  lower  hills.  Westwards  are 
seen  all  the  lofty  peaks  of  the 
border  range  of  Koshii  and  Shin- 
shii,  beginning  with  the  angular 
granite  obelisk  of  Koma-ga-take 
and  its  lesser  neighbours  Jizo  and 
Ho-o-zan,  then  the  three  summits 
of  Shirane,  known  as  Kaigane,  Ai- 
no-take,  and  Nodori,  the  Koma-ga- 
take  of  Shinshii  rising  between  the 
Tenryu-gawa  and  Kisogawa,  and 
so  on  to  Ena-san  in  Mino  and 
the  top  of  Shichimen-zan  near 
Minobu.  Further  to  the  r.,  ex- 
tending northwards,  comes  the 
great  range  dividing  far-off  Hida 
from  Shinshu,  amongst  whose 
peaks  may  be  distinguished  Nori- 
kura,  Yari-ga-take,  and,  further 
remote  iv  Etchu,  the  volcanic 
summits  of  Tateyama.  Gradually 
moving  E.  again,  along  the  north- 
ern horizon,  we  distinguish  the 
mountains  near  Nagano, — Ken-no- 
mine  and  the  extinct  volcano  of 
My5ko-zan.  Nearer  in  the  fore- 
ground rise  the  numerous  sum- 
mits of   Yatsu-ga-take;    and  then 


Stmnnit  of  Fuji, 


119 


glancing  further  N.,  we  perceive 
Asama-yama's  smoking  crater,  the 
mountains  about  the  Mikuni  Pass, 
and  next  all  the  Nikko  mountains, 
Shirane,  Nantai-zan,  and  lesser 
peaks.  E.  of  Yatsu-ga-take  is  seen 
Kimpu-zan,  easily  known  by  its 
rounded  shoulder  and  the  pUlar  of 
rocks  at  the  summit ;  then  Yakushi 
and  Mitsiunine  in  Chichibu,  till 
the  eye  loses  itself  in  a  confusion 
of  lower  ridges.  On  the  E.  side 
of  the  crater,  from  almost  any 
point  that  may  be  chosen,  the  eye 
rests  on  a  prospect  less  extensive 
indeed,  but  surpassing  this  in 
beauty.  Far  away  across  the  plain, 
is  distinctly  visible  the  double 
top  of  Tsukuba  in  Hitachi,  while 
further  S.  we  see  the  outer 
edge  of  the  Tokyo  plain,  with 
Tokyo  lying  far  up  the  bay ;  then 
in  succession  Capes  Sagami  and 
Sunosaki,  Vries  Island,  the  Gulf 
of  Sagami,  and  nearer  in  the  fore- 
ground, beautiful  Lake  Hakone 
peacefully  embosomed  in  green 
hills. 

Few  travellers  will  be  fortunate 
enough  to  obtain  a  perfectly  clear 
view  from  the  summit  of  Fuji, 
but  the  best  chances  are  just 
before  and  at  sunrise.  *Nor,' 
says  an  authority  quoted  by 
Satow  and  Hawes,  *  will  the  pilgrim 
be  wholly  fortunate  unless  he 
sees  the  superb  cloud  effects  which 
the  mountain  affords.  These 
are  most  likely  to  be  enjoyed,  in 
ordinary  summer  weather,  between 
noon  and  6  o'clock  in  the  evening, 
and  they  are  truly  magnificent. 
The  summit  of  the  mountain  re- 
mains clear,  but  its  shoulders  and 
waist  are  surrounded  by  billowy 
masses  of  dense  white  vapour  of 
indescribable  splendour.  Here  and 
there  a  momentary  break  may 
permit  a  glimpse  of  the  earth 
beneath,  but  usually  nothing  can  be 
seen  landward  but  this  vast  ocean 
of  cloud,  amid  which  the  peak 
stands  as  the  only  island  in  the 
world.  Turning  seaifrard,  the  ocean 


itself  can  be  seen  over  the  circum- 
ambient vapour,  and  affords  a 
striking  contrast  to  the  turmoil 
and  restless  change  of  form  of  the 
clouds  themselves.' 

A  curious  phenomenon  may  also 
sometimes  be  witnessed  at  sunrise 
from  the  W.  *  side  of  the  sum- 
mit. As  the  sun*s  rays  appear 
above  the  horizon,  the  shadow  of 
Fuji  (in  Japanese,  hage-Fvoi)  is 
thrown  in  deep  outline  on  the 
clouds  and  mist,  which  at  that 
hour  clothe  the  range  of  mountains 
to  the  west. 

Descending  again  from  Ken-ga- 
mine, the  path  passes  under  it,  and 
just  above  the  steep  talus  called 
Oya  shirazu  Ko  shirazu  (*  Heedless  of 
Parent  or  Child '),  from  the  notion 
that  people  in  danger  of  falling 
over  the  edge  of  the  crater  would 
not  heed  even  their  nearest 
relatives  if  sharers  of. the  peril. 
The  name  occurs  in  similarly 
perilous  places  in  many  parts  of 
Japan.  Continuing  N.,  the  path 
skirts  the  edge  of  the  cone,  passing 
a  huge  and  precipitous  gorge  which 
appears  to  extend  downwards  to  the 
very  base  of  ■  the  mountain.  _  This 
gorge  is  what  is  called  the  Osawa, 
the  lower  limit  of  which  may  be 
some  6,000  ft.  above  the  sea,  or 
only  half  way  from  the  summit. 
Passing  across  the  flank  of  the  Bai- 
iwa,  or  *  Thunder  Uock,'  it  goes 
outside  the  crater  wall,  ascends  the 
Shaka  no  wari-ishi  (*  Shaka's  Cleft 
Eock '),  and  leaving  Shaka-ga-take 
— ^the  second  loftiest  peak — behind, 
descends  to  the  Kim-mei-sui 
(•  Famous  Golden  Water '),  a  spring 
of  ice-cold  water  situated  on  the 
flat  shelf  between  the  N.  edge 
of  the  crater  and  the  outer 
wall.  Ascending  again,  the  path 
passes  the  row  of  huts  at  the  top 
of  the  ascent  from  Yoshida 
and  Subashiri,  and  reaches  a  torii 
commanding  the  best  view  of  the 
crater.  Here  it  turns  again  to  the 
1.,  and  goes  outside  the  wall  of 
the    crater,  underneath  Kwannon- 


120 


Route  9. — Fvji  and  NeiyhhourJtood, 


ga-take.  Here  the  interesting 
phenomenon  may  be  observed  of 
steam  still  issuing  from  the  soil 
in  several  places,  one  of  which 
is  close  to  the  path,  while  an- 
other lies  near  at  hand  on  the 
1.,  about  50  ft.  down  the  exterior 
of  the  cone,  and  a  third  is  seen 
immediately  underneath  a  wall 
of  rock  50  yds.  ahead.  A  few 
inches  below  the  surface,  the  heat 
is  great  enough  to  boil  an  egg. 
Beyond  this  point,  the  path  crosses 
a  depression  known  as  8eishi-ga- 
kuho,  ascends  E.  the  8ai-no-kawara, 
dotted  with  stone  cairns  raised  in 
honour  of  Jizo,  descends  to  the 
Gim-mei-sui  (  *  Famous  Silver 
Water  *)  at  the  top  of  the  Suyama 
ascent,  and  passing  under  the  low 
peak  named  Koma-ga-take,  reaches 
the  huts  at  the  top  of  the  path 
from  Murayama.  Between  this 
last  point  and  Ken-ga-mine,  is  a 
small  crater  named  Konoshiro-ga- 
ike,  accessible  from  the  N.  The 
total  distance  round  the  large 
crater  is  said  by  the  Japanese  to 
be  1  ri,  or  2^  miles;  but  this  is 
doubtless  an  exaggeration.  An 
interesting  hour  may  be  devoted  to 
making  the  circuit.  This  will  aUow 
for  pauses  at  all  the  best  points 
of  view. 

9. — The  Chudo-Megubi,  or  Cir- 
cuit OF  Fuji  Half- Way  up. 

This  walk,  though  few  foreigners 
are  likely  to  find  leisure  for  it,  is 
a  favourite  with  native  lovers  of 
the  picturesque,  on  account  of 
the  panorama  which  it  succes- 
sively unfolds.  The  path  encircles 
Fuji  at  heights  varying  from  9,490 
ft.  on  the  Gotemba  side  (which  it 
intersects  at  station  No.  6)  to  7,450 
ft.  on  the  Yoshida  side.  It  is  best 
to  turn  to  the  1.  on  starting  from 
the  above-mentioned  No.  6  station, 
because  the  path  descends  a  rapid 
slope  of  loose  sand  from  the  ridge 
of  Hoei-zan  towards  the  W.,  which 
would  be  very  fatiguing  if  taken 


in  the  opposite  direction.  The 
time  required  for  the  entire  circuit 
is  from  7  to  8  hrs.,  the  walk  offering 
no  difficulties.  At  a  spot  caUed 
Komitake,  on  the  N.  side  of  the 
cone,  there  is  a  hut  where  accom- 
modation can,  if  necessary,  be 
obtained  for  the  night. 

10. — Circuit  op  the  Base  of  Fuji. 

(Time,  2^—3  days.) 

Itinerary. 

GOTEMBA  Station  to  :— 

Ri.  Cho.  M. 

Gotemba  Village....  12      f 

Subashiri    2  18  6 

Yamanaka 2  —  5 

Yoshida... 2    8  5^ 

Funatsu 1  —  2i 

Kodachi 12      f 

Nagahama 1  —  2^ 

Nishi-no-umi 12       f 

Nemba    1  12  3^ 

Shoji    1  24  4 

Motosu    2  —  5 

Nebara    18  3 

Hito-ana 2  28  6f 

Kami-ide    18  3 

Qmiya    3     8  7f 

SUZUKAWA   3  —  7i 

Total  26    6  63f 

(From  Suzukawa  by  rail  to 
Gotemba  in  1^  hr.) 

As  far  as  Kodachi  the  way  is 
practicable  for  jinrikishas,  the 
Kago-zaka  being  the  only  part 
where  it  is  necessary  to  get  out 
and  walk.  Boats  can  be  taken  from 
Kodachi  to  Nagahama,  from  Nishi- 
no-umi  to  Nemba,  and  from  Shoji 
across  the  lake.  Pack-horses  can 
be  got  at  most  of  the  stages,  gene- 
rally at  pretty  high  prices,  and 
can  be  taken  the  whole  round. 
A  tramway  runs  from  Omiya  to 
Suzukawa.  Travellers  are  recom- 
mended to  engage  horses  for  the 
whole  trip,  and  thus  render  them- 
selves independent  of  their  luggage, 
should  they  9.vail   themselves   of 


Bouie  10. — Ways  to  and  from  Kofu, 


121 


the  opportunity   of  doing  portions 
of  the  journey  by  boat. 

Excepting  the  first  5  or  6  n, 
the  whole  of  this  trip  is  highly 
picturesque,  leading,  as  it  does, 
along  the  chain  of  lak^s — Kawagu- 
chi,  Nishi-no-Umi,  Shoji,  and 
Motosu— that  belt  the  base  of  Fuji. 
"Were  there  only  good  hotels  or 
g^d  private  houses  to  hire,  the 
shores  of  all  these  lakes  would 
form  delightful  summer  retreats. 
Scenery,  fishing  of  sorts  (carp, 
eels,  dkorliara,  etc.),  short  walks  for 
the  delicate,  climbing  for  the 
strong  and  active,  bathing,  near- 
ness to  such  celebrated  excursions 
as  Fuji,  the  Misaka-toge,  Minobu, 
etc., — all  the  elements  of  ^  pleasant 
holiday  are  there.  Accommoda- 
tion can  be  had  at 

Gotemba  Station,  Inn  Yoshijima-ya. 

,t        Village,    „  Kawachi-ya. 
Subashiri,  „  *Yoneyama. 

Yamanaka,  „  ♦Nammi-ya. 

YoBhida,  „  ♦Kogiku. 

KodacM,  „  •Temple  of  My  ohoji. 

Nebara,  „    Yoshikawa  . 

Hampei.  (      

Hito-ana,  „  Akaike  Kei- 1 P™^' 

kichi.        J 
Kami-ide,  „   Fuji-ya. 

Also  at  Kawaguchi  {Inn,  Umeya),  a 
little  off  the  way,  on  the  N.  side  of  the 
lake  of  the  same  name. 

The  stars  in  this  list  indicate  only  a 
relative  and  very  modest  excellence. 

At  Hito-ana  is  a  cave  260  yds. 
long,  visited  by  pilgrims  anxious 
to  worship  the  little  image  of 
Kwannon  which  sits  perched  on  a 
projecting  rock  at  its  further  end. 
But  the  chief  sight  on  the  road  is 
afforded  by  the  beautiful  waterfalls 
of  Kaiiii-ide,  known  as  Shira-ito  no 
iaki,  or  *the  White  Thread  Cas- 
cades.' The  two  largest,  some  85 
ft.  in  height,  are  called  respectively 
0-dafci and  Me-daki,  or  'the  Male 
and  Female  Cascades,'  and  there 
are  more  than  forty  smaller  falls, 
their  children.  In  the  neighbour- 
hood is  another  fine  cascade,  about 
100  ft.  high  and  30  ft.  wide,  called 
Nen-nen-fuchi. 

Persons  not  caring  to  make  the 
entire  round  of  Fuji  may  visit  the 


Kami-ide  waterfalls  by  alighting 
at  Suzukawa  station  on  the  Tokai- 
do  Eailway,  whence  it  is  a  distance 
of  6  ri  8  cho^  the  first  3  W  of  which, 
as  far  as  Omiya,  by  tram.  The 
way  there  and  back  can  be  done  in 
a  day,  under  favourable  circum- 
stances. One  may  also  alight  at 
Iwabuchi  (good  inn  at  station), 
whence  it  is  only  5^  ri ;  but  there 
is  no  tram. 


EOUTE  10. 
Wats  to  and  from  Koru. 

1.  KOPU  AND  NEIGHBOUKHOOD,  MI- 
TAKE,  KIMPTJ-ZAN.  2.  TOKT5  TO 
KOFU  BY  THE  k5sHU  KAIDO  [sARU- 
HASHI  TO  FUJI].  3.  VALLET  OP 
THE  TAMAGAWA.  4.  FROM  THE 
TOKAIDO  TO  KOPU  vid  THE  TEMPLES 
OP  MINOBU.  5.  VALLET  OF  THE 
HATAKAWA,  ASCENT  OF  8HIRANE 
SAN.  6.  RAPIDS  OP  THE  FUJIKAWA. 
7.    KOPU    TO   SHIMO-NO-SUWA     ON 

,  THE  NAKASENDO,  ASCENT  OP  KOMA- 
GA-TAKE  IN  KOSHU.  8.  KOPU  TO 
FUJI  OVER  THE  MISAKA-TOGE.  9. 
KARUIZAWA  TO  KOPU  OVER  THE 
TSUYUTARE  PASS,  ASCENT  OF  AKA- 
DAKE. 

Kofii  is  a  pleasant  resting-place 
after  arduous  travel,  its  central 
situation  in  the  beautiful  province 
of  Koshu  and  its  proximity  to 
places  of  such  peculiar  interest  as 
Mitake,  Fuji,  Minobu,  the  Eapids 
of  the  Fujikawa,  etc.,  causing  it 
to  be  included  in  so  many  differ- 
ent tours  as  to  render  a  descrip- 
tion of  the  several  ways  to  and  from 
it  advisable. 


122 


Eoute  10. —  IVnt/H  to  and  from  Kd/u, 


1. — KoFu  AND  Neighbourhood. 

Kof  II  {Inns,  *  Yonekura  in  Yana- 
gi-machi ;  Sado-ya  j  European  food 
can  be  obtained  in  the  Choyo-tei 
restt.  in  the  public  garden,  where 
also  foreign  guests  are  accommo- 
dated for  the  night),  the  capital  of 
the  prefecture  of  Yamanashi,  is 
noted  for  the  progressive  spirit  of 
its  people.  For  its  size,  it  has  more 
buildings  in  European  style  than 
any  other  provincial  town  in  Japan. 
Conspicuous  amongst  these  are  the 
Prefecture,  the  Normal  School,  the 
Banks,  the  Court-houses,  the  Town 
Hall,  the  Industrial  School,  the 
silk-filatures,  and  the  bookselling 
and  printing  establishment  of  Mr. 
Naitb  Den-emon,  who  is  also  the  pro- 
prietor of  the  Kdfu  Daily  News.  The 
castle  grounds  were  many  years  ago 
turned  into  an  experimental  garden, 
where  excellent  fruit  and  vege- 
tables are  grown.  From  the  plat- 
form where  the  keep  formerly 
stood,  there  is  a  fine  view  of  the 
town  and  surrounding  country.  A 
great  festival,  called  Mi-yuki  no  Ma- 
tsuri,  is  held  in  Kof  u  on  the  1st  April. 
The  town  is  noted  for  kaiki,  a  thin 
silken  fabric  used  for  the  linings 
of  dresses  and  for  bed-quilts ;  also 
for  a  sweetmeat  called  tsuki-no~ 
shizuku,  that  is  *  moon -drops,*  con- 
sisting of  grapes  coated  with  sugar. 
The  province  of  Koshii  produces 
the  best  grapes  in  Japan,  and  at- 
tempts have  been  made,  of  late 
years,  to  produce  wine  and  brandy 
from  them.  The  grapes  are  in 
their  prime  about  the  end  of 
September  or  beginning  of  October. 
Crystals  are  found  in  the  neigh- 
bourhood. A  cei-tain  inconvenience 
is  felt  in  the  vicinity  of  Kdfu  by 
the  difficulty  of  procuring  jinriki- 
shas,  the  native  carriage  (hasha) 
having  almost  driven  them  from 
the  plain. 

The  chief  historical  interest  of  K5fu 
centres  in  its  mediaeval  hero,  .Takeda  Shin- 
gen,  who  was  one  of  the  fiercest  feudal 
chieftains  of  the  lawless  times  that  pre- 
ceded the  establishment  of  the  Tokugawa 
dynasty  of  Shoguns,    Born  in  1521  as  the 


eldest  son  of  his  father,  lord  of  Koshti, 
it  was  his  fate  to  be  unjustly  pa«sed  over 
by  that  father  in    favour  of  his  second 
brother ;  and  he  was   obliged    to   feign 
stupidity  as  a  boy,  in  order  to  preserve 
his  life  in  safety.    When,  however,  both 
youths    reached   man's   estate,    Takeda 
Shingen's  superiority  in  skill  and  courage 
gained  all  the  warriors  of  the  clan  over  to 
his  side,  and  he  succeeded  his  father  with< 
out  demur.    His  whole  time  was  spent 
in  waging  war  against  the  barons  of  the 
neighbouring  provinces    of    central  and 
eastern  Japan,  especially  against  Uesugi 
Kenshin,    lord    of  Shinshfl.     In  middle 
life  he  l)ecame  converted  to  the  doctrines 
of  the  Tendai  sect  of  Buddhists,  built  a 
temple  to  the  god  Bishamon,  did  public 
X)enance,  abj^ed  the  eating  of  fish  and 
all  intercourse  with  women,  and  went  so 
far  as  to  have  himself  decorated  with  the 
title  of  archbishop,— for  what  ecclesiaa- 
tical  authorities  were  going  to  refuse  any- 
thing to  a  zealot  who  disposed  of  so  many 
soldiers  ?    He  did  not,  however,  renounce 
his    grand  passion,    war,    but    kept  on 
fighting  till   the    end,    his   latter  years 
being  much  disturbed  by  the  conscious- 
ness  of  the    growing  power  of  leyasu, 
and  being  divided  between  quarrels  and 
reconciliations  with  that  great  captain. 
When  mortally  wounded  in  1573,  he  left 
orders   with   his    successor   to   hold   no 
funeral    service    in  his   honour,  but   to 
keep  his  death  a  profound  secret  for  three 
years,  and  then  to  sink  his  body  privately 
in  Lake  Suwa,  enclosed  in  a  stone  coffin. 
This  was  in  order  to  prevent  his  nume- 
rous foes  from  taking  heail)  at  the  news 
of  his  decease.    His  last  will  and  testa- 
ment  was   only    partially   obeyed;    for 
though   his    death   was    kept  secret    as 
long  as  possible,  the  body  was  not  sunk 
in  the  lake,  but  buried  at  the  temple  of 
Eirinji  at  Matsuzato,  a  few  miles  from 
Kofu.    The  place  still  exists,  the  temple 
garden  being  a  tasteful  specimen  of  rock- 
work    on     a    large    scale.      Brave    but 
superstitious,    Takeda  Shingen  was  also 
an  adept  at  governing  men.    His  people 
liked  and  respected  him,  as  was  shown 
by  the  fact  that  none  ever  rebelled  against 
him,    evon    in    that  turbulent  age  when 
every   man's   hand   was   against    every 
man. 

From  Kofu  a  very  pretty  excur- 
sion may  be  made  to  the  temples 
of  JNitiikc,  distant  about  5  ri. 
Jinrikishas  can  be  taken  as  far  as 
a  place  called  Kizawa,  some  2  ri 
from  Kofu,  whence  onwards  it  is 
necessary  to  walk.  The  whole 
distance  can  be  accomplished  in 
3  J  hrs.  The  road  winds  up  a  fine 
rocky  valley,  crossing  and  recross- 
ing  the  Kamezawa  gawa  several 
times.       Beyond    the     hamlet  of 


Mittihe,     The  Koshu  Kaido. 


123 


Kiyokawa,  the  river  cuts  its  way 
through  the  rocks  so  as  form  a 
clianning  double  cascade  called 
86-gawar}uchi.  A  short  way  op,  the 
traveller  leaves  this,  the  prettiest 
part  of  the  road,  and  ascending  to 
the  r.,  comes  in  sight  of  the  rocky 
valley  in  which  lie  the  temples 
and  village  of  Mitake.  Excepting 
the  beautiful  site,  a  grove  of 
magnificent  trees,  and  the  fine 
stone-work  facing  the  slopes  of 
the  terraces,  but  little  remains  of 
th«  former  grandeur  of  the  place, 
Tvhich  has  fallen  into  the  de- 
structive hands  of  modern  Shinto 
reformers. 

The  village  of  Mitnke  (Inn, 
Tama-ya),  2,800  ft.  above  the  sea, 
lies  just  below  the  temple  grounds, 
on  the  banks  of  a  stream  in  the 
midst  of  extremely  picturesque 
scenery,  the  most  conspicuous 
rocky  peaks  being  Gah^san — ^the 
peculiar  sugar-loaf  cone — and  Ten- 
gu-iwa  on  the  opposite  side  of  the 
valley.  Specimens  of  rock-crystal 
are  sold  ija.  the  village.  They  are 
procured  chiefly  from  mines  in  the 
neighbourhood  of  Kurobera  on  the 
way  to  Kimpu-zan. 

Kimpn-zan,  a  granite  mountain 
8,300  ft.  high,  can  be  easily  ascended 
in  1  day  from  Mitake  by  making 
an  early  start.  The  way  lies 
through  the  vill.  of  Kurobera.  At 
a  Shinto  shrine,  2\  hrs.  beyond 
Kurobera,  there  is  a  good  sized 
hut  for  the  accommodation  of 
piVims ;  and  here  the  real  ascent 
begins,  the  distance  hence  to  the 
summit  being  about  2,000  ft.  The 
way  lies  over  a  heap  of  large 
granite  boulders.  At  two  places, 
ladders  are  fixed  to  assist  the  climb- 
er over  difficult  gaps,  and  at  two 
others  chains  g^ve  additional  secu- 
rity ;  but  even  without  the  help  of 
these,  there  would  be  no  danger. 
The  top  is  crowned  by  a  huge 
inaccessible  mass  of  granite,  rising 
to  a  height  of  some  50  ft.,  and 
forming  a  landmark  by  which  the 
mountain  can  be  recognised  at  a 


great  distance.  The  view  includes 
Asama-yama  on  theN.,  Yatsu-ga- 
take  almost  due  W.,  Fuji  to  the 
S.,  and  the  lofty  mountain  range 
on  the  Western  boundary  of  the 
province  of  Kdshu. 


2. — From  Tokyo  to  Kopu  by  the 
KosHu  Kaido. 

The  first  stage  of  this  journey  is 
by  train  from  either  Shimbashi  or 
Shinjiku  station,  1^  hr.  from  the 
latter.  (See  p.  94.)  The  itine- 
rary of  the  rest  of  the  route  is  as 
follows : — 

HACHIOJIto:—        Ri.  Cho.M. 

Komagino 1  27    4^ 

Yoshino 3  27     H 

Uenohara  1  27    4^ 

Notajiri 1  19    3f 

Saruhashi 3      6    7f 

Ozuki  1       2     2i 

Kuronota   2  29    6f 

Katsunuma   3  15    8^ 

KOFU    4      2  10 

Total     23     10  56| 


The  whole  ground  may  be  covered 
in  2  days,  by  taking  jinrikishas  from 
Hachioji  to  Kofu,  and  sleeping  the 
first  night  at  Saruhashi.  Carriages 
of  the  usual  springless  kind  run  the 
whole  way.  The  scenery  is  pretty  all 
along  the  route  after  passing  Ko- 
magino, but  the  road  is  often  heavy 
away  from  the  vicinity  of  the 
larger  villages.  Those  wishing  to 
break  the  journey  before  reaching 
Saruhashi,  will  find  good  accom- 
modation at  Yoshino.     From 

Hachioji  (Inn,  Kado-ya),the  road 
lies  along  the  flat  to  Komagino,  after 
passing  which  vill.  a  gradual  rise 
leads  up  the  Kobotoke-toge.  The 
new  Jiighway,  avoiding  as  it  does 
the  summit  of  the  pass  (1,850  ft.), 
misses  the  extensive  view  over  the 
plain  of  Tokyo  and  the  sea,  for 
which  this  portion  of  the  journey 
was  formerly  noted;  but  on  the 
way  down  on  the  other  side,  there 


124 


Route  10, — Ways  to  ami  from  Kd/u, 


is  a  fine  prospect  of  the  Koshu 
mountains.  Soon  the  traveller 
comes  in  sight  of  the  fertile  valley 
of  the  Banyugawa,  also  called  Ka- 
tsura-gawa,  which  flows  at  the  bot- 
tom of  a  deep  ravine  and  becomes 
the  constant  companion  of  the 
journey  as  far  as  Ozuki.  Some  poor 
hamlets  are  passed  before  reaching 

Yoshino  (Inn  by  Ofusa  Seijuro). 
In  the  neighbourhood  of 

Ueiiohiira  [Inn,  Uehara),  a  great 
deal  of  refuse  silk  is  spun  and 
woven  into  the  fabric  called  tsumugi, 
to  be  taken  to  market  at  Hachi- 
dji.  The  town,  lying  on  a  plateau, 
has  no  wells.  AH  the  water  has 
to  be  brought  from  a  distance  in 
wooden  pipes,  and  is  consequently 
foul.  From  XJenohara,  the  road 
plunges  down  to  the  bed  of  the 
Tsurukawa,  a  tributary  of  the 
Banyii,  and  then  again  ascends 
and  descends  before  arriving  at 
Notajiri.  Delightful  glimpses  of 
Fuji  are  obtained  on  the  way.  The 
scenery  becomes  strikingly  pretty 
before  reaching. 

Sarnhashi  {Inns,  Daikoku-ya, 
Kubota),  that  is,  the  'Monkey's 
Bridge/  also  called  Enkyo,  the 
latter  name  being  indeed  but 
the  Chinese,  pronunciation  of  the 
same  ideographs  which  in  pure 
Japanese  read  Saruhashi.  Perpen- 
dicular cliffs  frown  down  upon  the 
dark  emerald  stream,  which  is 
narrow  and  deep  at  this  point. 
The  place  derives  its  name  from 
the  bridge  having  formerly  been  a 
mere  cranky  plank,  such  as  monkeys 
alone  might  be  supposed  able  to 
venture  across.  The  present  bridge 
is  more  or  less  of  the  cantilever  sort, 
having  the  ends  of  the  horizontal 
beams  planted  deep  in  the  soil 
that  covers  the  rock.  Saruhashi, 
though  but  an  unpretending  place, 
has  a  certain  importance  as  a 
market-town  for  the  surrounding 
villages,  and  possesses  a  telegraph 
station.  Specimens  of  the  tsmn/iigi 
above-mentioned  may  be  purchased 
here  at  cheap  rates. 


The  scenery  continues  to  be 
lovely  aft«r  passing  SaruhashL 
There  is  a  celebrated  view  at  a 
point. where  the  Katsura-gawa  is 
joined  by  its  affluent  the  Wata- 
gawa  between  Saruhashi  and 
Komahashi. 

Ozuki  is  badly  situated,  as  a 
hill  rising  behind  it  shuts  out  the 
sunlight  and  the  view  of  Fuji; 
moreover  the  accommodation  is 
wretched. 

[A  road  to  Toshida,  from  whvDh. 
place  Fuji  may  be  ascended, 
branches  off  here  to  the  1., 
following  up  the  valley  of  the 
Katsura-gawa,  and  passing 
through  the  cleanly  and  thri- 
ving town  of  Tain  lira  (Inn, 
Susuki-tei).  At  Toka-ichiba 
there  is  a  fine  cascade,  which 
is  seen  to  best  advantage  from 
the  verandah  of  the  little  tea- 
house ^lose  by.  The  distance 
from  Ozuki  to  Kanii-Yoahida 
(Inn,  Kogiku),  is  just  under  6 
ri.  The  whole  road  is,  in  a 
manner,  dominated  by  Fuji, 
beginning  near  Ozuki  where 
the  great  volcano  appears  en 
vignette,  and  then  grows  and 
grows  till  it  fills  up  the  entire 
foreground.  It  is  also  curious 
to  observe  the  gradual  conver- 
sion of  the  lava  into  arable 
soil,  partly  by  weathering,  and 
partly  by  the  labour  of  the 
peasantry]. 

At  Ozuki  the  road  abandons  the 
Katsura-gawa,  and  proceeds  up 
the  valley  of  the  Hanasaki-gawa 
through  villages  devoted  to  the 
breeding  of  si&worms.  The  diver- 
sified forms  of  the  mountains  lend 
a  strange  charm  to  the  scene. 
After  passing 

Kuronota  (Inn,  Miyoshi-ya),  one 
ascends  the  Sasago-toge,  3,500  ft. 
above  the  sea,  or  1,300  ft.  above 
Kuronota. 

Katsunama  is  one  of  the  cen- 
tres of  the  grape-growing  industry. 
The    plain    of    Koshu    now    lies 


Valley  of  the  Tamagaim, 


125 


before  the  traveller,  surrounded 
on  every  side  by  a  wall  of  high 
mountains.  The  chief  summits  to 
the  W.  are  Koma-ga-take,  Ho-o-zan, 
Jizo-dake,  Kwannon,  and  Yakushi, 
backed  by  the  long  chain  collec- 
tively known  under  the  name  of 
Shirane-san.  Fuji  also  is  visible 
noTv  and  then  over  the  tops  of  the 
range  bounding  the  plain  on  the 
S.  From  the  vill.  of  Todoroki  to 
Sbimo  Kuribara,  the  road  is  lined 
witb  peach-trees,  double  cherry 
trees  and  Kaido  (Pyrus  spectdbilis), 
which  are  in  full  blossom  about  the 
middle  of  April.  The  road  runs 
along  a  fertile  plain  from  this 
point  to  Kofu. 

3. — Tokyo  TO  Koftj  by  the  Valley 

OF  THE  TaMAQAWA  (OmE  KaIDO). 

Itinerary. 

TOKYO  (Shinjiku  Station)  to  :— 

Tachikawa  by  train  1  hr.,  thence 
by  road  to : 

Ri.  CJio.  M. 

Hamura   3  18    8i 

OME f 1  18    3f 

Sawai    2  18    6i 

Kotaba 1  18    3f 

Hikawa 2  —    5 

Kochi-no-yu  (Yuba)....  3  —    7i 

Kamozawa  2  —    5 

Tabayama    2  18    6f 

Ochiai  ". 3  18    8i 

Yanagizawa-toge  (top)  1  —    2i 

Kamikane    1  18    3| 

Ofuji —  18    U 

Kusakabe 1  18    3f 

Hirashina    1  —    2^ 

Satogaki  2-^6 

KOFU 1  —    2i 

Total  30    18  76i 


This  extremely  pretty  route, 
passing  through  some  of  the  finest 
scenery  within  easy  reach  of  the 
capital,  is  much  to  be  recommended 
at  all  seasons,  and  particularly  in 
spring  when  the  trees  are  in  flower. 
Kofu  can  be  easily  reached  in  3i 


days.  Jinrikishas  are  practicable 
from  Tachikawa  to  Ome  j  but  the 
road  across  the  plain  is  always 
rough,  and  it  is  better  to  walk. 
Jinrikishas  can,  indeed,  be  taken 
on  to  Sawai,  where  the  first  night 
should  be  spent;  the  rest  of  the 
journey  till  within  3  ri  of  Kofu 
must  be  performed  on  foot.  Fair 
accommodation  is  also  to  be  had 
at  Kochi-no-yu,  Tabayama,  and 
Ofuji,  but  the  food  is  everywhere 
very  poor. 

Leaving  Tachikawa  and  passing 
through  several  hamlets  we  reach 
in  1  hr.  the  squalid-looking  town 
of  Haijima,  a  short  distance  beyond 
the  Treaty  Limit  boundary.  From 
the  point  where  the  road  joins  the 
Tamagawa  aqueduct  to  the  vill. 
of  Hamura,  the  surface  is  harder 
and  travelling  somewhat  easier.  At 

Ham  lira  (Inn,  Tamaru-ya)  we 
enjoy  a  charming  glimpse  of  the 
Tamagawa,  and  can  inspect  the 
massive  stone-work  of  the  dam 
which  is  formed  here  to  carry  off 
the  water  to  supply  Tokyo.  The 
road  hence  to  Ome  follows  the  1. 
bank  of  the  river,  a  heavy  portion 
of  the  route  in  bad  weather.  At 
Ome,  the  Ome  Kaido,  or  main  road 
to  Tokyo  is  first  reached.  It  is 
now  little  used  for  through  traffic. 

Ome  (Inn  by  Sakanoe  Rinzo)  con- 
sists of  a  single  long  street,  lined 
with  old  gnarled  fruit-trees,  maples, 
crape  myrtle,  and  pine,  which  give 
it  a  picturesque  and  pleasant  ap- 
pearance. On  the  r.,  soon  after  en- 
tering the  town,  at  the  top  of  a 
flight  of  steps,  stands  a  Shinto  tem- 
ple decorated  with  good  carvings, 
chiefly  of  birds  and  fabulous  ani- 
mals. On  leaving  Ome  the  road  at 
once  enters  the  valley  of  the  Tama- 
gawa, ascending  along  its  1.  bank. 
The  valley  is  rather  wide  here  and 
well-cultivated.  Shortly  after  pass- 
ing 1.  the  path  which  leads  over  the 
mannen-bashi  to  the  sacred  moun- 
tain of  Mitake,  the  traveller  may 
spend  a  few  moments  in  watching 
the  rafts  shoot  past  the  rocks  in 


126 


Eoiite  10. — Ways  to  and  from  Kofu. 


the  river.  Passing  through  the 
l>each  orchards  of  Mitamiira,  the 
bridge  at  the  entrance  of  Sawai  is 
crossed,  and  here  a  path  branches 
off  r.,  leading  by  way  of  Hanno  to 
Chichibu  and  the  province  of  Shin- 
bhu.     At 

Sii^'aii  {Inn,  Yamaguchi-ya),  the 
beautiful  part  of  the  route  com- 
mences. Just  before  reaching  Ko- 
taba,  the  valley  begins  to  contract 
and  wind,  while  the  hills  on  either 
side  increase  in  height,  and  in 
front  is  seen  the  triple  summit  of 
Mitake. 

[Mitake,  2,900  ft.  above  the  sea, 
is  an  agreeable  resort  during 
the  summer  months,  on  ac- 
count of  its  cool  temperature. 
It  may  be  reached  from  Ome 
either,  1st,  by  crossing  the 
river  at  that  place  and  so  at 
once  gaining  the  road  (practi- 
cable for  jinrikishas  to  Hossawa 
near  the  foot  oi  the  mountain) 
along  the  r.  bank  of  the  river, 
known  as  the  Onie  Hika^e 
K'lido,  or  Shady  Road  from 
Ome,  owing  to  its  lying  on 
the  shadier  side  of  the  valley  ; 
2nd,  by  crossing  to  the  r.  bank 
by  the  mannen-hashi  bridge 
close  to  the  tea-house  at 
Hinata  Wada.  about  1  H 
from  Ome  by  the  usual  road, 
which  brings  the  traveller 
into  the  'Shady  Road*  at 
Shimomura  ;  or,  3rdly,  by 
crossing  the  Takahashi  bridge, 
some  way  above  the  Yamagu- 
chi-ya inn  at  Sawai,  direct  to 
Hossawa.  The  distance  from 
Ome  to  Hossawa  may  be  calcu- 
lated at  2  hrs.  on  foot,  and  the 
ascent  of  the  mountain  at  H 
hr.  more.  There  are  no  inns 
at  the  summit,  but  rooms  can 
bo  hired  at  some  of  the  houses 
inhabited  by  the  priests.  The 
temple  stands  at  the  very 
summit.  On  a  hill  further 
to  the  N.,  but  easily  reached 
from  Mitake,    and  known  as 


the  Oku-no-In,  *is  a  chapel 
dedicated  to  Yamato-take. 
The  population  of  the  upper 
and  lower  villages  on  this 
mountain  consists  of  families 
of  hereditary  Shinto  priests, 
who  intermarry  almost  exclu- 
sively among  each  other. 

Mitake  may  also  be  ascended 
from  Itaukaichi  on  the  Aki- 
gawa, Sri  SO cho  from  Hachioji, 
and  2  ri  21  cho  from  Ome. 
Instead  of  descending  again 
to  Hossawa,  and  crossing  the 
river  to  Sawai,  the  pedestrian 
may  save  a  couple  of  hours  by 
descending  to  Unasawa,  near 
the  r.  bank,  about  1  m.  below 
Hikawa.] 

Kotaba  (Inn,  Naga-ya,  poor)  is 
the  highest  point  from  which  rafts 
descend  the  river.  Further  up, 
single  logs  are  thrown  into  the 
water  and  left  to  float  down  with 
the  current.  Tlie  scenery  con- 
tinues to  be  charming;  the  path 
constantly  ascends  and  descends, 
sometimes  rising  to  a  great  eleva- 
tion above  the  stream.  Corn, 
miUet,  and  potatoes  constitute  the 
chief  crops  grown  in  the  valley. 
Indigo  and  tobacco  are  also  raised 
in  small  quantities.  Descending 
through  the  remains  of  a  cryp- 
tomeria  grove,  we  cross  the 
Nippara-gawa,  an  affluent  of  the 
Tamagawa,  and  after  a  short  climb 
reach  the  village  of 

Hikawa  {Inn,  Miyamoto-ya).  At 
this  place,  and  elsewhere  in  the 
valley,  may  be  observed  bevelled 
waterwheels,  used  where  the  bank 
is  too  high  for  the  ordinary  under- 
shot wheel.  The  floats  are  small 
and  placed  wide  apart,  and  the 
axle  is  inclined  at  an  angle  in 
order  to  admit  of  the  wheel 
dipping  into  the  stream.  The 
next  stage  beyond  Hikawa  is 
extremely  picturesque  and  but 
sparsely  populated.  Below  the 
path,  which  winds  up  and  down 
the  flank    of    the   mountain,  the 


Valley  of  the  Tamagawa. 


127 


stream  dashes  along  a  rocky  chan- 
nel, sometimes  forming  deep,  clean 
pools ;  while  above,  on  either  hand, 
rise  steep  lofty  hills,  mostly 
covered  with  timber,  but  wherever 
tlie  exposure  is  favourable,  culti- 
vated up  to  the  highest  possible 
point.  Especially  noticeable  is  the 
part  where  the  road  makes  a  deep 
bend  to  the  r.  just  before  coming 
to  the  baths  of 

Koebi-no-ju    {Inn,     *  Tsuru-ya 
Tvliich  has  pleasant    rooms    over- 
hanging the  river;  the  inn  by  Hara- 
sliima  Koichiro  has  a  private  bath, 
and  the  upstairs  rooms   fronting 
W.  are  comfortable).    This  place, 
1,350  ft.  above  the  sea,  is  noted 
for  its  tepid  sulphur  springs,  and 
is  much  resorted  to  by  the  people 
of  the  neighbouring  villages.   Half 
a   mile  further  we  cross  a  tribu- 
tary stream  called  the  Ogawa,  to 
the  village  of  Kochi,  and  winding 
round  to  the  r.,  pass  in  succession 
through  Mugiyama  and    Kawano 
to  the  hamlet  of  Kamozawa  at  the 
boundary  between  the  provinces  of 
Musashi  and  Koshu. 

Kiimozawa  (no  inns)  is  strikingly 
situated  on  the  hill-side  just  above 
the  road.  From  a  point  a  short 
distance  beyond,  the  scenery  is  very 
fine,  and  the  road,  considering  the 
difficulties  that  had  to  be  overcome, 
and  the  impossibility  of  preventing 
the  effects  of  weathering  on  the 
easily  disintegrated  rocks  over 
which  it  passes  in  many  places,  is  a 
very  creditable  piece  of  engineering. 
It  winds  up  the  side  of  a  magnificent 
wooded  gorge  for  4  or  5  m.,  while 
the  river  fiows  away  down  at  the 
bottom  under  the  shade  of  de- 
ciduous trees.  Half-way,  perched 
on  the  r.  bank  of  the  stream  far 
beneath  the  road,  lies  the  quaint- 
looking  hamlet  of  Honose.  At 
last,  turning  a  corner,  we  come  in 
view  of  the  spacious  upland  valley 
in  which,  surrounded  by  corn- 
fields, lie 

Tabayama  (Inn,  Mori-ya-;  height 
2,000  ft.  above  the  sea)  and  one  or 


two  other  hamlets.  Beyond  this 
the  scenery  becomes  even  more 
remarkable,  and  the  views  of  deep 
ravines  and  rocky  wooded  preci- 
pices are  amongst  the  finest  to  be 
seen  in  Japan.  The  bridges  are 
broad  and  were  solidly  constructed, 
but  have  not  been  well  maintained, 
and  unfortunately  the  amount  of 
traffic  that  takes  place  is  not 
sufficient  to  justify  any  outlay  on 
their  improvement.  The  most 
striking  bits  are  a  short  way  above 
Tabayama,  where  grey  fir-clad  cliffs 
tower  up  to  a  height  of  over  2,000 
ft.  from  the  water's  edge ;  but  the 
grandest  prospect  of  all  is  about 
1^  m.  below  Ochiai,  where  the  road 
winds  round  the  face  of  a  lofty 
precipice  which  commands  a  view 
up  a  densely- wooded  gorge  almost 
to  its  very  source.  From  this 
point  to 

Ochiai,  which  is  a  mere  cluster 
of  huts  without  inns,  and  for  1  ri 
further  to  the  top  of  the  Yanagi- 
zawd-toge  (4,600  ft.),  is  a  walk  of 
about  2  hrs.  over  the  only  bad 
portion  of  the  mountain  route,  the 
soft  mud  being  thick  and  heavy 
even  in  the  finest  weather.  The 
top  of  the  pass  affords  a  fine  view 
of  Fuji,  seen  over  the  intervening 
range  of  mountains.  Descending 
on  the  Kofu  side,  the  road  follows 
the  bank  of  the  Omogawa,  which  it 
crosses  and  recrosses,  to  the  vill.  of 

Kaniikane  (poor  accommoda- 
tion), when  for  the  first  time  opens 
out  in  fuU  view  the  great  range 
dividing  the  provinces  of  Koshu 
and  Shinshu.  The  chief  peaks  from 
r.  to  1.  are  Koma-ga-take,  Ho-o-zan, 
and  Jizo-dake,  with  the  triple  peaks 
of  Shirane-san  behind,  all  rising 
beyond  a  nearer  and  lesser  chain. 
The  small  wooded  hill  in  front  is 
Enzan,  noted  for  a  cold  sulphur 
spring.     From 

Ofuji  (Inn,  Fuji-ya)  the  main 
road  descends  straight  into  the 
plain  of  Kofu,  crossing  the 
Omogawa  and  passing  through 
Knsakabe  with  its  avenue  of  pines 


128 


Route  10, — Ways  to  and  from  Kofu, 


and  flowering  trees.  It  crosses  the 
Fuefuki-gawa  a  short  distance 
further  on  at  Sashide,  where 
coaches  may  be  engaged  to  Kofu. 


4. — SUZUKAWA     ON     THE      TOKAIDO 

Railway    to     Kofu    vid     the 
Temples  op  Minobu. 

Umerary. 

SUZUKAWA  to  :—  Ri.  Cho.  M, 

Omiya  (tram)    3  —    7i 

Utsubusa   2  —     5 

Manzawa    1  26    4^ 

Nambu    3  —     7i 

MINOBU  3  8    7f 

Hakii  30     2 

Yoka-ichiba  1  33    4f 

Kiri-ishi 20     U 

Kajikazawa   1  29    4^ 

K5FU    4  18  11 

Total  22     20  55 


Time,  2^  to  3  days. 

It  is  possible  to  take  jinrikishas 
the  whole  way ;  but  at  least  two  men 
are  needed,  and  there  are  numerous 
hills  to  walk  up.  Very  poor  accom- 
modation except  at  Omiya,  Minobu, 
and  Kajikazawa. 

Between  Oniiya  (Inn,  Wata-ya) 
and  UtsnbiiRa,  we  reach  the  cele- 
brated Tsuri-hashi,  or  'Hanging 
Bridge '  over  the  Fujikawa,  at  a 
picturesque  spot  where  the  river 
divides  into  two  branches.  This 
bridge,  which  is  suspended  to  pre- 
cipitous rocks  on  either  side  by 
stout  ropes  of  bamboos  split  and 
twisted  together,  consists  of  small 
bundles  of  split  bamboos  some  6 
or  7  ft.  long,  lashed  close  to- 
gether and  supporting  a  single 
row  of  planks  laid  along  the 
middle  as  a  pathway.  The  bridge, 
which  is  divided  into  two  un- 
equal spans  by  timber  supports 
resting  on  a  lower  rock  close 
to  the  right  bank,  is  altogether 
about  100  ft.  long ;  its  height  in  the 
centre  is  al>out  26  ft.,  and  at  the 


bank  35  ft.,  and  the  whole  struc- 
ture shakes  and  sways  considerably, 
though  there  is  no  real  danger. 
Attempts  are  now  (1891)  being 
made  to  block  up  the  left  channel 
which  flows  under  the  bridge,  and 
to  keep  the  river  altogether  on  the 
r.  side  of  the  island.  Even  if  these 
efforts  are  successful  and  the  bridge 
falls  into  disuse,  similar  structures 
may  still  be  seen  in  the  valley  of  the 
Hayakawa  and  elsewhere.  From 
Utsubusa  onwards,  the  road  leads 
up  the  pleasant  valley  of  the  Fuji- 
kawa with  occasional  views  of 
Fuji,  Yatsu-ga-take,  and  other  high 
mountains. 

Minobn  (Inns,  Tanaka-ya,  Masn- 
ya)  consists  of  a  single  hilly 
street  lined  with  shops  for  the  sale 
of  rosaries.  It  was  also  at  one 
time  noted  for  the  manufacture  of 
hempen  rain-coats  (mino),  a  fact 
to  which  the  origin  of  the  name 
has  been  ascribed.  The  village  is 
charmingly  situated  in  a  valley 
surrounded  by  well-wooded  moun- 
tains, among  the  most  prominent 
being  Oku-no-In  which  rises  im- 
mediately behind  the  temples,  and 
Shichimen-zan  at  the  head  of  the 
valley.  The  vill.  owes  its  ex- 
istence to  the  great  Monastery 
of  Kuenji,  founded  in  the  13th 
century  by  the  celebrated  Bud- 
dhist saint  Nichiren,  a  portion  of 
whose  body  is  here  preserved. 
This  monastery  is  the  head-quar- 
ters of  the  Nichiren  sect,  and  the 
new  temples  now  in  process  of  erec- 
tion to  replace  the  former  buiMings 
destroyed  by  fire  in  1875  are  fine 
specimens  of  Buddhistic  architec* 
ture. 

On  entering  the  grounds  of  the 
Monastery,  the  traveller  crosses  a 
courtyard,  whence  either  of  two 
fiights  of  steps — the  OtoTco-zaka  and 
the  Onna-zaka — may  be  ascended  to 
the  actual  temples.  On  reaching  the 
top  of  the  steps,  and  passing  r.  the 
•  belfry,  the  traveller  will  find  him- 
self in  front  of  the  Founder's  Tem- 
ple (Kaisan-do),  from  which  galle- 


Minobu, 


129 


ries  lead  to  the  Temple  of  the  True 
Bones  (Go  8hinkotsu-dd)y  to  the 
Temple  of  the  Posthumous  Tablet 
(Ihai-do),  to  the  Pilgrims'  Dormi- 
tory (Kyahi-den),  to  the  Eecep- 
tions  Booms  {Taimen-zaahiki),  and 
finally  to  the  residence  of  the 
archbishop  and  the  business  offices 
of  the  sect  (Jimusho).  The  interior 
dimensions  of  the  main  hall  of 
the  Founder's  Temple  are :  length 
76  ft.,  depth  120  ft.,  height  26  ft. 
from  floor  to  ceiling,  while  the 
altar  is  24  ft.  long  by  15  ft.  in 
depth.  The  porch  has  carvings  of 
dragons,  storks,  birds  playing  over 
the  waves  of  the  sea,  and  tortoises 
swimming  through  it.  The  ven- 
tilating panels  over  the  grated 
doors  contain  angels  and  phoenixes 
brightly  painted.  The  framework 
of  the  building  and  the  pillars  which 
support  the  ceiling  are  lacquered 
red  and  black,  producing  a  noble 
effect.  In  the  centre  of  the 
nave  (gejin)  hangs  a  .  magnifi- 
cent gUt  baldachin,_  presented  by 
the  merchants  of  Osaka.  Gilded 
pillars  mark  off  the  space  in  front 
of  the  main  altar,  which  is  lac- 
quered red  and  decorated  with  gilt 
carvings  of  lions  and  peonies.  The 
two  porcelain  lanterns  about  8  ft. 
high,  in  front  of  the  altar,  are  from 
the  famous  potteries  of  Hizen. 
The  handsomely  carved  and  gilded 
shrine  contains  a  good  life-size 
ef^gj  of  Nichiren,  presented  by 
the  inhabitants  of  Tokyo.  The  cof- 
fered ceiling  of  the  chancel  (nai- 
jin)  is  plainly  gilt,  while  the  part 
of  it  immediately  over  the  altar 
has  gilt  dragons,  touched  up  with 
red,  on  a  gilt  ground.  To  the 
wall  behind  the  altar  are  affixed 
modern  'paintingB  of  Kakan.  The 
colours  of  the  square  brackets  in  the 
cornices  are  green,  blue,  red,  and 
chocolate,  often  with  an  outline  in 
white  or  a  lighter  shade  of  the 
prhicipal  colour,  and  gold  arabes- 
ques on  the  flat  surfaces.  The  gem 
of  lp!inobu,  however,  is  the  Temple 
of  jthe  True  Bones,  where  the  lover 


of  Oriental  decorative  art  will  find 
in  contemporary  freshness  all  those 
beauties  which,  in  most  of  the 
religious  edifices  of  Japan,  have 
already  been  too  much  tarnished  by 
the  hand  of  time.  A  small  fee  is 
charged  for  admission.  The  exterior 
is  unpretentious;  but  on  entering  the 
oratory,  the  visitor  should  observe 
the  lifelike  paintings  of  cranes  on 
the  ceiling.  A  plain  gallery  leads 
hence  to  the  sanctum  sanctorum, 
where  Mchiren's  remains  are  en- 
shrined. It  is  a  small  octagonal 
building,  elaborately  decorated 
and  all  ablaze  with  colours  and 
gold.  Bound  the  walls,  on  a  gold 
ground,  are  full-sized  representa- 
tions of  the  white  lotus-flower,  the 
emblem  of  purity  and  of  the  Bud- 
dhist faith.  The  horizontal  beams 
above  have  coloured  diapers  and 
geometrical  patterns,  the  brilliant 
effect  of  which  is  toned  down  by 
the  black,  mixed  with  gold,  of  the 
rafters.  '  Black  and  gold  are  like- 
wise the  colours  used  in  the  ceiling, 
which  is  secured  by  beautifully 
worked  metal  fastenings.  In  the 
ramma  are  carvings  of  the  Sixteen 
Disciples  (Ju-roku  Bakan),  and  on 
the  doors  are  paintings  of  musical 
instruments.  The  shrine  (koto), 
which  was  presented  by  the  faith- 
ful of  the  province  of  Owari ,  is  of 
gold  lacquer  and  shaped  like  a  two- 
storied  pagoda.  In  it  rests  the 
reliquary  or  casket  of  gold  and 
precious  stones  containing  the 
bones  of  Nichiren,  which  is  in  the 
form  of  a  tiny  octagonal  pagoda, 
standing  on  a  base  of  jade  carved  in 
the  conventional  lotus-flower  form. 
Its  framework  is  of  the  alloy  called 
shakvdo,  and  one  of  the  pillars 
bears  an  inscription  in  silver  dama- 
scening, which,  among  other  pdlr- 
ticulars,  gives  a  date  correspond- 
ing to  A.D.  1580.  The  other  pillars 
are  decorated  with  silver  tracery 
attached  to  the  surface  of  the 
shakudo.  The  top  is  hung  with 
strings  of  coral,  pearls,  and  glass 
beads.  The  height  of  the  whole  is  a 


180 


Route  10, — Ways  to  and  from  Kofu, 


little  over  2  ft.  Above  hangs  a  bal- 
dachin presented  by  the  inhabitants 
of  Nagasaki.  The  only  European 
innovation  in  the  place  is  the  intro- 
duction of  two  glass  windows,  which 
permit  of  a  much  better  examina- 
tion of  the  building  than  is  gene- 
rally obtainable  in  the  'dim  re- 
ligious light'  of  Japanese  sacred 
edifices.  The  Temple  of  the  Posthu- 
mous Tablet  is  a  plain,  uninterest- 
ing building.  Pending  the  erec- 
tion of  the  new  buildings,  it  has 
been  temporarily  used  to  hold  the 
remains  of  the  saint  and  an  image 
of  him  carved  by  his  disciple  Nichi- 
ro.  The  archbishop's  residence  is 
a  beautiful  specimen  of  Japanese 
house-decoration  in  the  old  style. 
Note  the  exquisite  modem  open- 
work carvings  of  cranes  and  geese, 
and  the  fine  paintings  in  the 
alcove  (tokonoma)  of  the  Becep- 
tion  Booms.  For  a  fee  of  25  sen,  the 
priests  officiating  at  the  ]^aisan-do 
will  display  the  image  on  the  altar 
and  perform  a  short  service  in  its 
honour.  The  chief  yearly  festival 
takes  place  on  the  12th  and  13th 
October,  old  calendar  (some  time 
in  November). 

The  ascent  to  Oku-no-In  winds 
up  Ueno-no-yama,  the  hill  imme- 
diately behind  the  Founder's 
Temple,  and  is  an  easy  climb  of 
50  cho.  After  passing  the  small 
temple  of  Sanko-do,  the  road 
ascends  through  a  forest  of  crypto- 
merias,  and  near  the  summit  com- 
mands an  extensive  view,  including 
Fuji,  part  of  the  Gulf  of  Suruga, 
and  the  promontory  of  Izu.  On 
the  top  stends  a  plain  little  temple 
dedicated  to  Nichiren,  whose  crest  of 
the  orange-blossom  is  prominently 
marked  on  various  objects  within 
the  enclosure. 

A  spare  day  at  Minobu  may  be 
devoted  to  the  ascent  of  Shichi- 
men-zan  whose  summit  is  not  quite 
5  ri  distant.  The  best  place  to 
halt  on  the  way  is  Akasawa,  3  ri 
2  cho  from  Minobu ;  but  the 
traveller  must  take  his  own  food. 


There  is  a  good  road  all  the  way 
up.  The  last  50  cho  are  marked 
by  stone  lanterns  numbered  from 
1  to  50.  No.  36  affords  the  best 
view,  which  includes  the  full  sweep 
of  Suruga  Bay,  with  the  promon- 
tory of  Izu  stretching  far  out  to 
sea,  a  magnificent  prospect  of 
Fuji,  the  fertile  plain  of  Kofu 
intersected  by  the  various  streams 
uniting  to  form  the  Fujikawa,  the 
valley  of  the  Hayakawa  below  to 
the  1.,  beyond  which  are  seen 
Shirane-san  and  the  Koma-ga-take 
of  Koshu,  while  Yatsu-ga-take, 
Kimpu-zan,  and  other  distant 
ranges  bound  the  prospect  on  the 
N.  On  the  top,  which  the  forest 
deprives  of  all  view,  stands  a  plain 
building  dedicated  to  the  goddess 
of  the  mountain. 

According  to  the  legend,  as  Nichiren 
was  one  day  preaching  in  the  open  air  at 
Minobu,  a  oeautiful  woman  suddenly 
made  her  appearance,  and  greatly  excited 
the  curiosity  of  his  auditors.  Ou 
Nichiren  ordering  her  to  assume  her 
true  form,  she  explained  that  she  dwelt 
among  the  mountains  to  the  west,  and 
that  seated  on  one  of  the  eight  points 
of  the  compass,  she  dispensed  blessing 
to  the  other  seven.  She  then  beggred 
for  water,  which  was  given  to  ter 
in  a  vase,  and  at  once  the  beautiful  wo- 
man was  transformed  into  a  snake  twenty 
feet  long,  covered  with  golden  scales,  and 
armed  with  iron  teeth.  A  terrible  blast 
swept  down  from  the  mountains,  and  she 
disappeared  in  a  whirlwind  towards  the 
point  of  the  compass  indicated.  The 
words  *  seven  points  -  of  -  the  -  compass ' 
(gkichi-men)  also  mean  '  seven  faces  ;'  and 
by  an  equivoque  the  popular  belief  has 
arisen  that  a  serpent  with  seven  heads 
had  appeared  to  the  saint,  whom  he 
deified  under  the  name  of  Shichiwen 
DaimyOjin.  Buddhist  writers  identify 
her  with  Srimahaddva,  the  ddva  of  lucky 
omen,  another  name  for  the  Hindoo  god 
Siva. 

Game  is  plentiful  on  the 
hills  surrounding  Minobu.  Deer 
and  bears  are  frequently  seen,  and 
pheasants  are  abundant.  Shoot- 
ing, however,  is  strictly  prohibited, 
as  contrary  to  the  tenets  of  the 
Buddhist  faith.  Departing  from 
Minobu  and  passing  through 

Hakii,  the  place  where  travellers 
coming  down  the  Fujikawa  en  ra/vM 


Valley  of  the  Hayakawa, 


181 


to  Minobu  leave  the  boat,  we  reach 
Futui,  between  which  vill.  and 
Itomi  the  Hayakawa  is  crossed. 

[For  a  description  of  the  extreme- 
ly picturesque  valley  of  this 
river,  see  No.  5  of  this  route.] 

The  current  is  so  swift  at  the 
ferry  that  the  boat  has  to  be 
fastened  to  either  bank  by  a  rope. 
The  crossing  is  effected  by  the  help 
of  a  pole,  and  by  quickly  hauling 
on  one  end  of  the  rope  as  the  other 
is  slackened.  The  scenery  at  this 
point  is  remarkably  fine.  A  mass 
of  rock,  inclined  at  an  acute  angle 
on  the  1.  bank  of  the  Fujikawa, 
just  opposite  the  confluence  of  the 
Hayakawa,  is  worth  noticing. 
From  Itomi  onwards,  the  road 
generally  follows  the  bank  of  the 
river  to  Yoka-ichiba  {Inn,  Wakao- 
ya)  and  Kiri-ishi  (Inn,  Matsuzaka- 
ya),  then  descending  to  the  vill.  of 
Nishijima,  where  the  river  makes  a 
wide  bend  to  the  r.     Beyond 

Kajikii-zawa  (Inn  Ueda-ya),  the 
road  enters  the  plain  of  Kofu,  with 
its  amphitheatre  of  mountains, 
whose  various  summits  are  seen 
from  numerous  other  points;  but 
the  best  general  view  of  them  is 
enjoyed  while  crossing  the  bed  of 
the  Fujikawa,  here  called  the  Kama- 
nashi-gawa,  beyond  Anabara.  The 
imposing  mass  to  the  1.  is  Yatsu- 
ga-take,  rising  between  Kane-ga- 
take  to  the  r.  and  Koma-ga-take 
'  to  its  1.  The  high  mountain  to  the 
1.  of  the  latter,  distinguished  by  a 
pile  of  rocks  on  its  summit,  is  Ho- 
d-zan,  to  whose  1.  is  seen  in  succes- 
sion the  great  range  of  Shirane. 
The  high  mountain  to  the  r.  of 
Kane-ga-take  is  Kimpu-zan.  Fuji's 
cone  alone  is  visible  above  the 
intervening  range.  Shichimen-zan 
is  seen  on  looking  back  down  the 
valley.  The  44  ri  separating  Kaji- 
ka-zawa  from  Kofu  can  be  done  by 
carriage  in  about  3  hrs. 


6. — From  Itomi  to  Kofu  by  the 
Valley  of  the  Hayakawa. 
Ascent  of  Shibane-san,  Ho-6- 

ZAN,  AND  KaIQANE-SAN. 

Itinerary, 

ITOMI  to :—  Bi.  Cho.  M. 

Koretsubo 3    —      7i 

Kyo-ga-shima 2     16      5 

Hayakawa -  34      2^ 

ShimoYujima    ...  3     18      Sh 

Narada 2    —      5 

Ashikura 5    —    12|^ 

Arino 2    —      5 

Dodo 15      1 

Midai 10        f 

KOFU  2—5 


Total... 


>  •  •  ^^  •  •  •  • 


21     21 


52-» 


It 


This  trip  is  a  very  rough  one ; 
for  though  so  close  to  civilisation, 
the  country  through  which  it  leads 
the  traveller  lies  in  the  heart  of 
the  great  mountain  mass  dividing 
Koshii  from  Shinshu  and  Suruga, 
and  both  the  people  and  the  roads 
are  in  much  the  same  state  as  they 
were  in  earlier  centuries  before 
railways  were  known  or  foreigners 
heard  of.  The  journey  can  only 
be  accomplished  on  foot,  and  one 
should  travel  as  lightly  as  possible, 
for  all  baggage  has  to  be  carried 
by  coolies,  who  are  often  difficult 
to  obtain.  The  traveller  will  meet 
with  no  regular  inns ;  but  the  of- 
ficials and  headmen  of  the  various 
hamlets  are  very  civil,  and  ready 
to  provide  the  best  accommodation 
their  places  afford.  It  is  possible 
to  combine  with  this  trip  the  as- 
cent of  the  Koshu  Shirane-san  and 
other  lofty  peaks.  From  Itomi  the 
road  ascends  the  bank  of  the  Haya- 
kawa through  wild  and  picturesque 
scenery  to  the  hamlet  of 

Koretsubo,  beyond  which  a  steep 
climb  of  18  cho  leads  to  Gokamura. 
A  short  way  beyond  this  the  path 
descends  to  a  pretty  valley  near  the 
hamlet  of  Shio-no-ue,  where  the 
scenery  is  particularly  striking.  To 


182 


Route  10, — Ways  to  and  from  Ko/u, 


the  1.  rises  Shichimen-zan,  thickly 
wooded  and  seen  to  much  better  ad- 
vantage here  than  from  Minobu. 
Eight  opposite  is  the  bold  round 
summit  of  Amebata-yama^  also 
called  Zaru-ga-dake,  through  the 
deep  ravine  to  the  1.  of  which  flows 
the  Amebata-gawa.  Below  is  seen 
the  Hayakawa  windinor  down  the 
valley  on  the  r.,  and  forming  ahnost 
a  complete  circle  as"  it  bends  round 
a  low  wooded  promontory,  which 
from  this  point  has  the  appearance 
of  an  island.  The  path  now  des- 
cends over  a  rough  watercourse  to 
the  bed  of  the  river,  and  ascends 
its  1.  bank  to 

Kyo-ga-shima.  Eight  cJio  further 
on  it  crosses  the  stream  on  a  tsuri- 
hashi,  or  'hanging  bridge,'  to  the 
hamlet  of  Ho,  in  the  neighbour- 
hood of  which  a  gold  mine  is 
worked. 

For  a  description  of  the  tniri-ba$hi,  or 
*  hanging  brioge,'  of  the  mountain  dis- 
tricts of  Eastern  and  Central  Japan,  see 
p.  128.  Another  primitive  kind  or  bridge, 
called  mannen-baski,  has  sometimes  to  be 
crossed  on  this  route  It  consists  of  a 
long  piece  of  timber,  which  is  simply  tied 
at  the  end  to  projecting  supports,  such  as 
ure  used  in  the  hanging  bridge.  The 
span  is  not  so  great  as  that  of  the  tmri- 
ba$hi;  but  the  narrowness  of  the  roadway, 
and  the  imperfect  manner  in  which  the 
projecting  beams  are  supported,  give  the 
traveller  a  most  uncomfortable  feeling  of 
insecurity.  The  Japanese  name  is  a 
hyperbole  signifying  *  Bridge  of  a  Myriad 
Years.* 

Beyond  Ho,  the  path  leads  over 
one  of  the  lower  spurs  of  Daikoku- 
yama,  and  follows  the  steep  side  of 
the  vaUey  high  above  the  stream. 
After  passing  the  hamlet  of  Nishi- 
no-miya,  the  traveller  recrosses  the 
river  to 

Hayakawa,  where  he  will  find 
comfortable  quarters  at  the  house 
of  the  Boncho  (Mayor)  of  Misato,  the 
'  three  villages '  of  which  this  place 
is  one.  Gold  is  said  to  be  found  in  the 
neighbourhood,  while  plantations  of 
the  paper-tree  (Edgeworthia)  and  of 
tobacco  line  this  part  of  the  valley. 
Higher  up,  beyond  the  hamlet  of 
Arakawa,  the  scenery  is  charming. 


The  river  dashes  along  through  a 
fine  rocky  glen,  and  is  spanned  by 
one  of  the  mannen-hashi  at  a 
highly  picturesque  spot.  After 
crossing  the  bridge,  the  road 
divides.  The  route  to  Narada 
turns  to  the  r.,  and  ascends  a  very 
steep  hill  for  about  1  ri,  winds 
round  its  upper  slope,  and  descends 
again  to  the  river  through  wild 
and  rugged  scenery  before  reaching 
the  hamlet  of 

Shimo  Tnjima.  Beyond  this 
place,  the  path  crosses  and  recrosses 
the  river  on  mannen-hashi.  About 
40  cho  on,  and  a  little  way  up  the 
ravine  to  the  r.,  is  the  hot  spring 
of  Kami  Tnjima  (poor  accommo- 
dation). 

Nariida  (accommodation  at  a 
Buddhist  temple),  the  last  in- 
habited place  in  the  valley,  consists 
of  but  a  few  households.  All 
the  inhabitants  bear  the  same  sur- 
name, and  seldom  intermarry  with 
the  people  of  other  villages.  They 
are  a  primitive  folk  of  a  peculiar 
type  of  countenance,  who  wear  in 
summer  a  loose  hempen  dress,  and 
deer  and  bear-skins  in  the  winter. 
Their  dialect  is  peculiar,  and 
abounds  in  archaic  words  and  ob- 
solete grammatical  forms.  Owing 
to  their  practical  isolation  from 
the  outer  world,  their  ignorance 
and  want  of  education  are  extreme, 
and  they  are  content  to  live  in  dirt 
and  squalor.  Bice,  sake,  and  soy 
are  with  them  luxuries  to  be  in- 
dulged in  on  rare  occasions,  their 
ordinary  food  consisting  only  of 
millet  and  potatoes.  Narada  boasts 
of  'Seven  Wonders'  (Nana  JV 
shigi),  amongst  which  are  en- 
umerated a  brackish  pool,  the 
waters  of  which  are  said  to  have 
the  property  of  dyeing  black  any 
article  of  clothing  left  to  steep  in 
them  for  forty-eight  hours,  and  a 
reed  whose  leaves  grow  only  on  one 
side  of  the  stem. 

[More  interesting  to  the  deter- 
mined  pedestrian  than  these 


Ascent  of  Shimne-mn, 


133 


village  wonders  will  be  the 
ascent  of  Shirane-!4an,  which 
may  be  taken  on  the  way  to 
Ashikura,  instead  of  proceeding 
to  the  latter  place  by  the  usual 
path  according  to  the  itinerary. 

The  name  Shirane-san  is  often  used 
to  denote  tlie  whole  mighty  range 
dividing  the  province  of  Kpsha  from 
the  head-waters  of*  the  Oigawa,  a 
range  second  only  in  orographical 
importanee  to  that  of  Etcha  and 
Hida,  which  forms  the  subject  of 
Route  34.  The  name  is,  however, 
more  properly  confined  to  the 
northern  and  most  elevated  portion, 
consisting  of  three  peaks,  viz.  NOdori 
on  the  S.,  Ai-no-take  in  the  centre, 
and  Kaigane  on  the  N.  There  exists 
a  somewhat  amusing  rivalry  be- 
tween the  inhabitants  of  Narada 
from  which  the  first  two  peaks  are 
ascended,  and  those  of  Ashikura,. 
the  nearest  point  to  the  third,  the 
one  vill.  maintaining  that  Ai-no-take 
is  the  highest  of  the  three  and  the 
true  Shirane,  while  the  other  claims 
the  same  honours  for  Kaigane.  The 
traveller  looking  at  the  range  from 
the  summit  of  HO-O-zan,  or  from  any 
other  mountain  top  commanding  a 
view  of  the  two  peaks,  will  adjudge 
the  Ashikura  people  to  be  in  the 
right  about  the  question  of  altitude. 

There  is  no  regularly  marked 
path  from  Narada  to  the  top 
of  the  range;  but  guides 
can  there  be  procured  who 
know  the  way  up,  and  will 
carry  whatever  is  necessary 
in  the  way  of  provisions  and 
bedding.  The  traveller  who 
proposes  to  ascend  all  three 
peaks  must  be  prepared  to 
sleep  out  three  nights,  and, 
taking  Nodori-san  first,  to  cross 
on  the  fourth  day  from  the 
base  of  Kaigane  to  Ashikura. 
Nodori-san  and  Ai-no-take 
involve  sleeping  out  two 
nights  and  descending  on  the 
third  day — likewise  to  Ashi- 
kura. There  is  a  hut  at  the 
E.  base  of  Kaigane^  but  none 
on  the  top  of  the  range.  Ai- 
no-take  cannot  be  ascended 
direct  from  Narada;  Nodori 
must  first  be  climbed,  and 
the  track  then  followed  along 
the  ridge  to  the  former  peak. 


From  Narada  there  is  a 
choice  of  ways  up  Shirane,  one 
leading  along  a  ravine  above 
the  viU.  called  Hiro-Kochi,  the 
other  up  the  Shira-Kochi  a 
short  way  below  it.  To  the  top 
of  the  ridge  is  a  stiff  climb  of 
9  hrs.,  frequent  rests  being 
needed  by  the  guides  who 
carry  the  burdens.  The  height 
is  8,400  ft.  above  the  sea,  or 
5,900  above  Narada,  and  snow 
often  lies  there  as  late  as  July. 
Once  on  the  ridge,  the  rest  of 
the  ascent  is  easy.  In  2  hrs. 
the  first  peak  is  reached,  height 
8,830  ft.  The  view  includes 
W.S.W.,  the  round  top  of  Ena- 
san  in  Mino;  N.W.  by  W., 
Ontake ;  and  in  front  of  the 
highest  peak  of  a  long  ridge, 
the  Koma-ga-take  of  Shinshu. 
Norikura  bears  N.W.,  and 
Yari-ga-take  N.W.  by  N.  In 
the  far  distance  N.E.  the  top 
of  the  Nikko  Shirane  can  just 
be  descried,  and  the  Chichibu 
mountains  are  well  seen,  in 
the  same  direction.  Ho-6-zan 
is  nearly  N.N.E.;  then  come 
Jizo-ga-take,  and  Kwannon 
and  Yakushi  close  together. 
Fuji,  the  basin  of  the  Fuji- 
kawa, and  the  Kofu  plain  are 
distinctly  seen. 

Half  an  hour  more  brings  us 
to  the  top  of  N6d<»ri,  9,300  ft., 
which  commands  much  the 
same  view  as  the  previous 
summit,  with  the  addition  of 
Ai-no-take  and  Kaigane,  the 
latter  of  which  now  comes  in 
sight  for  the  first  time. 

I)rom  the  summit  of  Nodori- 
san  to  that  of  Ai-no-take  (9,850 
ft.),  takes  2  hrs.  The  top  is  bare 
rock ;  but  at  a  short  distance 
below,  every  sheltered  nook 
contains  a  patch  of  grass,  gay 
with  the  flowers  that  inhabit 
the  higher  altitudes.  Ten 
min.  below  the  summit  on  the 
E.  side  is  a  capital  camping- 
place.  '  The  view  from  the  high- 


134 


Boute  10, — Ways  to  and  from  Kd/u. 


est  point  includes,  besides  the 
mountains  already  seen  from 
Nodori-san,  the  following : — 
Koma-ga-take  a  little  to  the 
E.  of  N.,  Kaigane  N.  N.E., 
Yatsu-ga-take  just  on  the  E. 
of  Kai-gane ;  Kimpu-zan  N.E. 
by  E.,  and  Senjo-ga-take,  a 
much  lower  mountain  on  the 
1.  of  the  Norokawa,  N.W. 
The  source  of  this  stream  is 
perceived  far  down  on  the 
N.W.  flank  of  Ai-no-take.  To- 
wards the  S.,  and  beyond 
Nodori-san,  a  long  range  of 
mountains  is  seen  stretching 
down  the  frontier  of  Koshu, 
and  getting  gradually  lower 
as  it  approaches  Minobu.  Fuji 
rises  between  S.E.  and  E.S.E., 
while  Ho-6-zan  and  Jiz6-ga- 
take  on  the  one  side,  and 
Ontake,  Norikura,  and  Yari- 
ga-take  stand  up  perfectly 
clear  on  the  other.  The  de- 
scent from  Ai-no-take  to  Ashi- 
kura  is  fatiguing  as  far  as  a 
stream  some  4,200  ft.  above 
the  sea  level.-  This  stream  is 
the  Arakawa,  one  of  the 
sources  of  the  Hayakawa.  If 
the  day  is  too  far  spent  to 
allow  of  Ashikura  being 
reached  before  nightfall,  one 
may  sleep  at  some  wood- 
cutters' huts  1^  hr.  before 
getting  to  that  village.] 

The  ordinary  path  from  Narada 
to  Ashikura  winds  up  and  down  a 
succession  of  forest-slopes,  whose 
thick  foliage  almost  entirely  shuts 
out  all  view.  Now  and  then,  how- 
ever, glimpses  are  caught,  of  Shi- 
rane-san  and  of  the  valleys  of  the 
Arakawa  andNorokawa.  Further 
on  the  path  divides, — ^r.  to  Kof u  vi& 
Hirabayashi,  1.  to  Kofu  vi4  Ashi- 
kura. The  latter  is  not  practicable 
during  heavy  rains;  but  the  travel- 
ler is  recommended  to  take  it  when 
it  can  be  traversed,  on  account 
of  its  wild  and  beautiful  scenery. 
A  portion  of  the  way  lies  down  a 


precipitous  rocky  ravine  known  as 
the  Ide-zawa,  where  the  gorge  in 
many  places  is  so  narrow  that  its 
perpendicular  sides  seem  almost  to 
meet  overhead.  The  path  descends 
by  the  side  of  a  torrent,  crossing 
and  recrossing  the  stream  on 
trunks  of  trees,  and  being  occa- 
sionally carried  over  clefts  and 
landslips  on  bridges  of  very  primi- 
tive structure. 

Ashikura,  which  stands  on  the  L 
bank  of  the  Midai-gawa,  consists 
of  four  hamlets  named  Katsuzawa 
(the  highest  up  the  valley),  Ozori, 
Kozori,  and  Furu-yashiki  lower 
down.  Travellers  who  intend  to 
make  the  ascent  of  Ho-o-zan  should 
stay  at  Kozori.  There  is  also  fair 
accommodation  at  Puru-yashiki. 

From  Ashikura  into  Kofu  is  a 
walk  of  6  ri. 

[The  ascent  of  H5-o-zan  and  that 
of  Kaigane  are  best  made  from 
Ashikura.  The  walk  up  Ho-o- 
zaii,  though  under  6  ri,  will 
occupy  a  good  pedestrian  about 
9  hrs.,  and  the  descent  5  hrs., 
including  stoppages.  Though 
it  is  possible,  by  making  an 
early  start,  to  complete  the 
ascent  and  descent  in  one  day, 
it  is  not  usual  for  pilgrims  to 
do  so,  and  they  generally,  on 
the  downward  journey,  halt 
for  the  night  at  the  wood- 
cutters' sheds  at  Omuro,  li  ri 
below  the  summit.  The  ac- 
commodation being  rough, 
provisions  and  bedding  should 
be  taken.  Those  who  wish  to 
enjoy  the  morning  view  from 
the  summit  should  either  make 
a  late  start  from  Kozori  and 
spend  the  night  at  Omuro, 
ascending  next  morning  at 
daybreak,  or  start  early  and 
bivouac  at  the  hollow  between 
the  summits  of  Jizo  and  Ho- 
o-zan.  In  the  latter  case  it 
will  be  necessary  to  take  uten- 
sils for  carrying  up  water,  as 
none  can  be  got  beyond  Omuro. 


Shirane-san,     Rapids  of  the  Fujikawa, 


185 


The  ascent  commences  beyond 
the  hamlet  of  Kutsuzawa,  12 
cho  from  Kozori.  The  view 
from  Suna-harai,  a  rocky  peak 
over  which  the  path  leads, 
includes  in  front  Senjo-ga- 
take,  over  whose  r.  flank  is 
seen  the  outline  of  Koma-ga- 
take  in  Shinshu;  on  the  1., 
the  ridge  slopes  down  to  the 
valley  of  the  Norokawa,  on 
the  opposite  side  of  which 
rises  the  sharp  summit  of 
Kaigane-san;  lower  down  the 
valley  is  the  bold  massy  form 
of  .Ai-no-take,  while  in  the 
further  distance  are  seen  the 
high  mountains  on  the  nor- 
thern boundary  of  Suruga.  To 
the  r.  the  summits  of  Yakushi- 
dake  and  Kwannon-dake  shut 
out  the  more  distant  prospect. 
The  view  on  looking  back  in  - 
eludes  Fuji,  the  Kofu  plain, 
and  surrounding  mountains. 
Beyond  this  point  are  two 
other  peaks — Yakushi-dake  not 
usually  ascended  by  pilgrims, 
and  Kwannon-dake  which  they 
do  generally  visit,  and  whence 
there  is  a  fine  view  of  the 
ravine  through  which  the 
Norokawa  flows.  The  highest 
point — Ho-o-zan  properly  so- 
called — is  still  further  on,  and 
may  be  scaled  as  far  as  the 
ledge  which  supports  the  two 
enormous  blocks  or  pillars  of 
granite  that  form  the  actual 
summit.  The  view  closely  re- 
sembles that  from  Koma-ga- 
take  described  on  p.  186. 

The  way  up  Kaigane-san 
diverges  1.  from  that  up  Ho-o- 
zan.  From  Kozori  to  a  small 
temple  where  one  may  halt  for 
the  night  will  occupy  one  day's 
climbing,  whilst  the  remainder 
of  the  ascent  is  said  to  take  6 
hrs.  If  it  be  not  intended  to 
visit  the  other  summits  of  the 
range  after  ascending  Kaigane- 
san,  the  usual  plan  is  to 
descend   to   the    temple    and 


spend  the  second  night  there, 
returning  to  Ashikura  on  the 
following  day.  But  should 
the  traveller  wish  to  complete 
the  round  by  ascending  Ai-no- 
take  and  N5dori-san,  it  will  be 
necessary  to  sleep  out  one 
night  before  descending  either 
to  Narada  or  to  this  temple. 

We  trust  that  the  rough 
nature  of  the  entire  trip  has 
been  made  sufficiently  mani- 
fest, and  that  none  but  sturdy 
climbers  will  embark  on  it.] 

6. — Fbom  Kofu  to  Iwabtjchi  on 

THE  TOKAIDO  BY  THE  BaPIDS  OF 

THE  Fujikawa. 

• 

Eoughly  speaking,  this  is  No.  4 
reversed,  but  done  partly  by  boat 
instead  of  wholly  by  road.  Time 
1  day ;  2  days,  if  the  journey  be 
broken  at  Minobu,  for  which  alight 
at  Hakii.  The  waJk  from  the  river 
to  the  vill.  of  Minobu  occupies  40 
min.  A  carriage  must  be  taken  for 
the  first  stage  (4^  ri)  from  Kofu  to 
Kajikazawa,  where  a  boat  can  be 
engaged  to  Iwabuchi  (in  1891, 
the  price  was  ^i  for  boat  with  4 
men,  weather    being    favourable). 

There  is  considerable  traffic  on 
the  Fujikawa,  no  less  than  600 
boats  being  engaged  in  it.  When 
the  river  is  in  its  ordinary  state, 
the  times  taken  are  as  follows  : 

Kajikazawa  to: —  hbs, 

Hakii    ; 2i 

Nambu 1 

Iwabuchi 3 

Total [     6i 

As  far  as  the  confluence  of  the 
Hayakawa  the  river  flows  placidly 
along,  now  at  the  base  of  bare 
rocky  hills,  now  past  villages  and 
rice-fields.  Below  this  point  begins 
a  series  of  races  and  small  rapids, 
the  most  remarkable  of  which  is 
just  above  the  Hanging  Bridge 
where  the  current  whirls  along 
at    a    dizzy    pace.      On    nearing 


186 


TiOvt£  10, — W(fys  to  and  from  Kofu, 


Matsuno,  some  fine  g^roups  of  hexa- 
ofonal  andesite  columns  will  be 
noticed  on  the  r.  bank.  At 
Iwabiiclii  {Inn,  Tani-ya),  the  boats 
are  taken  along  the  canal  to  the 
landing-place  close  by  the  railway 
station. 

7. — From  Kofu  to  Shimo-no-Suwa 

ON  THE  NaKASENDO. 

_  Itinerary. 

KOFU  to :—                   Ri.  Chv.  M. 

Nirasaki 3  5  7f 

Enno  2  —  5 

DAI-GA-HARA   ..-2  9  5^ 

Kyoraishi  ;.     1  16  3^ 

Tsutaki  ,.     1  6  2f 

Kanazawa      3  8  7f 

Kami-no-suwa  ...         3  19  8^ 

SHIMO-NO-SUWA    1  4  2f 

Total  17    31  43i 


This  road  is  a  continuation  of 
the  Koshii  Kaido,  the  first  section 
of  which,  from  Tokyo  to  Kofu,  has 
been  described  on  p.  123.  It  is  prac- 
ticable for  carriages  and  jinrikishas 
the  whole  way. 

Leaving  Kotu  and  crossing  the 
Shiogawa,  an  affluent  of  the  Fuji- 
kawa, we  reach 

Nirasaki  {Inn,  Yashima-ya)  and 
Eniio,  also  called  TsvJbarai  or 
Marwno. 

[From  Enno  the  ascent  of  H6-o 
zan  can  be  made.  The  dis- 
tance to  the  top  of  the  gap  be- 
tween Jizo-dake  and  H6-o-zan 
is  called  5  ri.  The  path  crosses 
the  spur  to  the  1.  of  the  vilL, 
and  descends  to  the  bed  of  the 
Komukawa,  which  is  followed 
up  until  the  actual  ascent  of 
2\ri  commences.] 

From  a  grove  of  trees  just  be- 
yond Tsubarai,  there  is  a  magni- 
ficent view  of  Koma-ga-take,  the 
whole  sweep  to  the  sharp  summit 
of  the  precipitous  rocky  mass  being 
seen  to  perfect  advantage.  The 
road    now      ascends     the    valley 


of  the  Kamanashi-gawa.  The 
greater  part  of  it  as  far  as  Dai- 
ga-hara  is  built  up  on  the  stony 
beds  of  various  streams.  The 
scenery  of  the  valley  is  very  pretty, 
and  in  many  places  quite  striking. 
The  r.  side  is  lined  with  peculiar 
castellated  cliffs  of  brown  con- 
glomerate, while  to  the  1.  rises  the 
high  range  of  which  Koma-ga-taJfe 
is  the  principal  feature.  Further 
on,  Yatsu-ga-take  appears  to  the  r., 
and  on  looking  back  beautiful  and 
varied  views  of  Fuji  are  to  be  seen. 

[One  ri  before  reaching  Dai-ga- 
hara,  a  path  1.  leads  to  the 
base  of  Jizo-dake  (5  ri  28  cho), 
whence  the  mountain  can  be 
ascended.] 

We  next  reach  Dai-ga-hara  (Inn, 
Maru-ya),  whence  the  ascent  of  the 
Koshii  Koma-ga-take  can  best  be 
made. 
[The  ascent  is  so  precipitous  and 
difficult  in  parts,  and  so  long — 
nominally  7  n  to  the  summit — 
as  to  necessitate  sleeping  one 
night  at  the  Omuro  or  Uma- 
dome  huts  on  the  mountain 
side.  Water  should  be  taken 
up,  'as  none  can  be  procured 
except  at  these  huts.  The 
summit  consists  of  two  peaks, 
on  one  of  which  stands  a 
,  bronze  figure  of  the  Shinto 
god  Onamuji.  On  the  second 
and  higher  peak,  called  Oku- 
no-in,  is  a  small  image  of 
the  Buddhist  god  Marishiten. 
The  summit  commands  a  mag- 
nificent view  on  every  side. 
Looking  S.  the  eye  sweeps 
over  the  valleys  of  the  Noro- 
kawa  and  Tashiro-gawa,  to  the 
1.  of  which  rises  the  long  range 
of  Shirane,  the  most  con- 
spicuous summits  being  the 
snow-streaked  peak  of  Kaigane- 
san  which  stands  in  close 
proximity,  and  beyond,  the 
bold  mass  of  Ai-no-take,  the 
central  portion  of  the  range. 
Beneath  is  the  ravine  through 


Kofu  to  Shimo-no-Suiva  and  to  Yoshida. 


137 


which  the  Norokawa  flows  as 
it  winds  round  the  base  of 
Kaigane-san ;  the  mountain  to 
the  r.  is  Senj6-ga-take.  Be- 
yond Shirane  several  high 
mountains  are  visible,  and  are 
probably  those  which  stand  on 
the  N.  boundary  of  Suruga. 
Towards  the  E.  the  valley  of 
the  Fujikawa  is  seen  between 
the  near  summit  of  Ho-o-zan 
and  the  E.  slope  of  Kaigane, 
and  in  the  far  distance  can  be 
distinguished  the  promontory 
of  Izu  and  the  sea.  The  most 
striking  feature  of  the  view  is 
Fuji,  to  whose  1.  a  wide  plain 
stretches  far  away  to  the  E. 
Towards  the  N.  and  W.  the 
following  mountains  are  seen  in 
succession  : — a  portion  of  the 
Chichibu  range,  Kimpu-zan, 
Yatsu-ga-take,  Asama-yama, 
the  lofty  mountains  on  the 
borders  of  Etchii  and  Hida, 
Ontake,  the  Koma-ga-take  of 
Shinshu,  and  Ena-San  in  Mino, 
while  the  nearer  view  includes 
the  plain  of  Kofu,  the  valley  of 
the  Kamanashi-gawa,  Tate- 
shina-yama,  the  mountains 
about  the  Wada  pass.  Lake 
Suwa,  and  the  valley  of  the 
Tenryu-gawa]. 
Beyond  Dai-ga-hara  the  road  is 
lined  on  one  side  with  fine  red 
pine-trees,  which  shut  out  the 
view  of  the  river  as  far  as 

Kyoraishi  {Inn,  Izumi-ya).  At 
the  boundary  of  the  provinces  of 
Koshu  and  Shinshu,  the  road  cross- 
es to  the  1.  bank  of  the  Kamana- 
shi-gawa, and  passing  through  the 
insignificant  vUl.  of  Shimo  Tsutaki, 
reaches  _ 

Kami  Tsutaki  (Inn,  Osaka-ya), 
after  which  the  road  becomes  hilly. 
The  highest  point  is  reached  at 
3,070  ft.  above  the  sea,  being 
1,050  ft.  above  Dai-ga-hara.  Thence 
it  descends  to 

Kftnazawa  (Inn,  Matsuzaka-ya), 
and  down  the  valley  of  the  Miya- 
gawa,  where  the  waters  of  Lake 


Suwa  soon  come  in  view.  At 
Chugo,  where  the  road  crosses  a 
stream,  and  from  several  points 
further  on,  there  is  a  fine  view  of 
the  mountains  on  the  borders  of 
Hida,  the  most  conspicuous  sum- 
mits being  Iwasu-ga-take  and  Yari- 
ga-take.  The  lofiff  mountain  in 
the  distance  to  the  1.  of  the  lake  i& 
Nishi  Koma-ga-take. 

Kami-no-8iiwa  (Inn,  Botan-ya) 
is  a  busy  town  on  the  borders  of 
the  lake.  About  2  ri  distant  is 
the  Ichi  no  Miya,  or  chief  Shinto 
temple  of  the  province  of  Shinshu, 
which  contains  some  excellent 
wood  carvings.  The  annual  fes- 
tival is  held  on  the  1st  August.  The 
road  now  skirts  the  slopes  on 
the  N.  shore  of  the  lake,  and 
passing  through  the  hamlets  of 
Cwa  and  Takaki,  reaches  Shimo-no- 
Suwa  (see  Route  39). 

8. — From  Kofu  oveb  the  Mi- 
saka-toge  to  yoshida  at  the 
BASE  OF  Fuji,  and  70  Gotemba 

ON  THE  TOKAIDO  EaILWAY. 

Itinerary. 

KOFU  to  :—  Bi.  Cho.  M, 

Izawa 1  23  4 

Kami  Kurogoma.  1  31  4^ 

Tonoki    1  18  3| 

Kawaguchi    2  30  6f 

YOSHIDA 2  3  5i 

Yamanaka 4  8  10^ 

Subashiri   2  —  5 

GOTEMBA   2  30  7 

Total  18    35    464r 


Time  required,  2  days,  stopping 
at  Yoshida  the  first  night.  Yoko.- 
hama  may  easily  be  reached  on  the 
evening  of  the  second  day  by  train 
from  Gotemba.  Jinrikishas  with 
two  men  are  practicable  the  whole 
way,  when  the  roads  are  in  a  good 
state. 

The  road  follows  the  Koshii  Kai- 
do  as  far  as  Iznwa  (Inn,  Shishi- 
moto),  where  it  turns  off  to  the  r.. 


138 


RoiUe  10. — Ways  to  and  from  Kofu, 


and  soon  enters  a  narrow  valley. 
From  Kami  Knrogroma,  it  rises 
rapidly  to 

Tonoki  {Inn,  6akai-ya),  3,200  ft. 
above  the  sea.  It  then  ascends  for 
about  1  hr.  through  a  forest  to  the 
hut  on  the  summit  of  the  Misaka- 
toge,  which  is  .5^20  ft.  above  the 
sea.  The  view  of  Fuji  from  this 
point,  as  it  rises  from  Lake  Kawa- 
guchij  is  justly  celebrated.  Below 
is  the  vill.  of  Kawaguchi ;  on  the 
opposite  side  of  the  lake  are  Fu- 
natsu  and  Kodachi.  Further  S.  is 
Lake  Yamanaka.  The  view  look- 
ing back  towards  the  N.  and  W. 
includes  Kimpu-zan,  Tatsu-ga-take, 
Koma-ga-take,  Jizo-dake,  and  in 
the  plain  below,  the  vill.  of  Izawa. 
It  is  an  hour's  descent  to 

Kawagiichj  {Inn,  Nakamura),  a 
poor  vill.  lying  a  couple  of  hundred 
yards  from  the  lake.  Boats  can  be 
procured  from  here  to  Funatsu, 
making  an  agreeable  change  in  the 
day's  work ;  or  else  one  may  follow 
the  road  skirting  the  lake  through 
the  hamlet  of  Akasawa  for  about 
f  hr.,  with  steep  mountains  on  every 
side.  Funatsu  produces  white  and 
coloured  tswmugi,  a  coarse  fabric 
woven  from  spun  floss  silk.  From 
Funatsu  to  Yoshida,  and  indeed 
all  the  way  on  to  Subashiri  and 
Gotemba,  the  road  traverses  the 
moor  that  forms  the  base  of  Fuji. 

9. — Feom  Kabuizawa  on  the  Na- 
kasendo  to  kofu  by  the  tsutu- 
TABE  Pass. 

Itinerary, 

KARUIZ AWA  to :— Et.  Chd.  M. 

Iwamurata    4    33    12 

Usuda 2      6      5i 

.  Takano-machi  ...     1      7      3 

Hata   1     20      3f 

Umijiri  3     10      8 

Itabashi 2    10      6i 

Nagasawa  4      4    10 

Nirasaki 4    32    12 

KOFU    3     18      8i 

Total 27    31    68 


This  route  is  recommended  to 
those  whose  chief  object  is  moun- 
tain climbing.  Exclusive  of  such. 
climbing,  the  journey  takes  2  days, 
jinrikishas  being  available  for  tlie 
first  part  between  Iwamurata  and. 
UsudJEk,  and  carriages  from  l^irasalad 
to  Kofu.  The  rest  must  be  done 
on  foot.  There  is  accommodation 
of  the  usual  country  sort  at  th.e 
places  mentioned  in  the  itinerary. 

Hata  is  the  best  place  from 
which  to  ascend  Tateshina-yama. 
This  expedition  requires  the  whole 
of  a  long  day,  but  is  worth  the 
trouble,  on  account  of  the  extensive 
view  which  the  peak  commands. 

^rom  Umijiri,  at  the  end  of  the 
Iwasake  gorge,  one  may  visit  the 
sulphur  springs  of  Inaga  (21  chd), 
and  thence  go  up  to  the  Honzawa 
baths  (3  ri),  situated  at  a  height  of 
3,200  ft.  above  Umijiri.  The  sum- 
mit of  the  Honzawa  pass,  some 
40  min.  walk  beyond  the  Honzawa 
baths,  is  7,400  ft.  above  the  sea. 
From  this  point  a  path  leads  to  the 
summit  of  Mikahwi-yama,  8,450  ft. 
above  the  sea.  The  whole  expedition 
will  occupy  a  day. 

Itabashi  is  the   best   starting- 
point    for  the  ascent  of  Akaddke, 
but    there    is    no    path.    Two    ri 
from  Itabashi  across  the  moor  is 
a  wood-cutter's  hut  at  the  base  of 
the  spur  where  the  ascent  begins, 
and  it  is  advisable  to  sleep  here  in 
order  to  make  an  early  stiurt  in  the 
morning.  The  hut  is  about  5,300  ft. 
above  the  sea,  which  leaves  3,600 
ft.  to  be  still  ascended,  the  summit 
having  an  altitude  of  8,990  ft.,  and 
the  climb  up  it  being  very  steep  in 
parts.    The. view  includes  Asama- 
yama,  Kimpu-zan,  Fuji,  and  all  the 
mountains  on  the  W.  boundary  of 
Koshu.     Guides  cannot  always  be 
procured  at  Itabashi.  In  this  case  it 
will  be   necessary  to   proceed  to 
Hirasawa,  half-way  between  Ita- 
bashi and  Nagasawa,  where  they 
can  always  be  had. 

From  Nagasawa  it  is  an  easy 
climb   up    Qongen-dakQ,  the    most 


Route  11, — Kumagai  to  Omiya* 


189 


sontherly  of  the  nmnerons  peaJis 
known  under  the  collective  name 
of  ITatsu-ga-take.  It  is  not 
usual,  however,  with  the  Japanese 
to  make  the  ascent  until  after 
the  autumn  equinox,  and  the 
traveller  may,  therefore,  experience 
a  little  difficulty  in  obtaining 
guides.  In  this,  as  in  the  previous 
case,  he  will  do  best  to  make  Hira- 
sawa  his  starting-point.  The  ascent 
takes  about  5  hrs.,  the  descent  to 
Nag^asawa  3  hrs.,  that  to  Hirasawa 
4  h.rs.  The  view  includes  the  whole 
of  the  Hida-Shinshu  range,  amongst 
wb.ich  Yari-ga-take  is  conspicuous 
to  the  N.W.,  Fuji  is  seen  towering 
aloft  S.  by  E.,  the  Koshu  Koma-ga- 
take  S.W.  by  S.,  Shirane  a  little  to 
its  S.,  Ho-o-zan  S.S.W.,  distin- 
guished by  the  monumental  pile  of 
rocks  at  its  summit,  and  KLmpu- 
zan  S.E.  by  E. 


EOUTE  11. 

EUMAGAI    TO    OmIYA  IN     ChICHIBU^ 

Cave-Templb  of  Kwannon  nbab 
Kaoemobi. 

For  those  desirous  of  cross-country 
walks,  a  suitable  opportunity  is 
afforded  at  Kumagai  of  striking  off 
to  Omiya,  the  chief  town  in  the 
district  of  Chiohibu,  which  will  be 
found  a  convenient  centre  for  sut^h 
excursions.  Near  it  is  also  a  cave- 
temple  of  Kwannon,  possessing  some 
celebrity  and  well-worth  a  visit.  The 
road  is  practicable  for  jinrikishas. 

KUMAGAI  to:—        Ri.Cho.  M. 

Tanaka 8    18  8^ 

Yorii 1    18  3| 

Nogami 8    14  8| 

Onobara    8    — •  7? 

Omiya i  __    aj 

Total 12    U    30^ 

The  road  branches    off  to  the  1. 
just  beyond  Kumagai,  and  traverses 


a  rich  rice-plain  until  more  elevated 
ground  with  mulberry  plantations 
is  reached.  Good  views  of  the  Chi- 
chibu  mountains  are  obtained  on 
the  way.  The  Arakawa,  flowing 
down  a  wild  and  stony  bed,  is  joined 
10  cho  before  coming  to 

Yoril,  a  busy  vill.  carrying  on 
a  large  trade  in  silk,  the  chief  in- 
dustry of  the  people  all  along  this 
route.  The  road  now  ascends  the 
valley  of  the  Arakawa  through 
very  pretty  scenery. 

Nogami  lies  a  little  way  from  the 
river,  which  is  left  behind  at  the 
hamlet  of  Kanasaki,  whence  the  way 
lies  again  across  a  richly  cultivated 
tract  of  country. 

Omiya  {Inrit  Kado-ya)  is  noted 
for    its  silk    fabric    called  futako- 
ori.      Fairs    are    frequently    held 
here,  which    are    largely  attended 
during  the  season  by  dealers  in  raw 
silk  and  cocoons.    At  Kagemori,  20 
cho  from  Omiya,  a  path  turns  off  1. 
to  a  temple  of  Kwannon,  built  in  a 
cave,  which  is  considered  the  chief 
wonder  of  the  country-side.    At  the 
temple,    the    name    of    which     is 
KyorjKiji,     a     guide    is    provided. 
The  CavCt  which  is  close  by,  con- 
sists   of    two    chief    ramifications 
in  the  limestone  rock,  and  is  ren- 
dered fairly  easy  walking,  or  rather 
creeping,  by  means  of  ladders  and 
planks.    The  stalactites  in  it  take 
a    variety  of  fantastic    shapes    to 
which    realistic    names  are  given, 
such    as    the     five    viscera,     the 
breasts,    the    dragon's    tail     and 
head,    the    lotus-flower,    etc.      As 
usual,  Kobo  Daishi  gets  the  credit 
of  having  discovered  this  wonderful 
place.    The  inspection  of  the  cave 
occupies  about  J   hr.     The  exit  is 
within  a  few  min.  walk  of  Hashitate, 
on  the   way    to    Umi-no-kuohi  in 
Shinshu      by      the      Jiimon-toge, 
whence  it    is   a   distance    of    18^ 
ri     to     Kofu     over    the     Tsuyu- 
tare  pass  (see    p.  138),   with    the 
option  of  ascending  Akadake  and 
Gongen-dake^ — the  latter,  the  most 
southerly  of  the   numerous    peaks 
collectively  known  as  Yatsu-ga-take. 


1.40 


Route  12, — Tfie  Talmsakl-Yolcokawa  Fuiilway, 


Buko-zan  may  be  ascended  from 
Omiya ;  but  there  is  no  special  at- 
traction in  the  ascent,  and  no  view 
obtainable  from  its  forest-covered 
summit.  Hikawa,  situated  in  the 
valley  of  the  Tamagawa  (see  p.  126), 
about  11  ri  from  Omiya,  may  be 
reached  by  a  path  over  the  Sen- 
gen-t5ge.  But  the  most  interesting 
route  for  mountain  enthusiasts  is 
that  to  Koshu  by  the  Karizaka-toge. 
The  distance  is  variously  estimated 
at  from  23  ri  to  28  ri.  At  Kama- 
gaway  11  ri  from  Omiya,  good  ac- 
commodation can  be  obtained,  and 
at  Sashide  carriages  may  be  en- 
gaged to  Kofu,  a  distance  of  3^  ri. 


ROUTE  12. 

The  Tokyo -Takasaki-Yokokawa 
Railway.  [Maebashi.]  Isobe. 
Myogi-san. 


Distance 

from 
Tokyo. 

Names 

of 
Stations. 

# 

Remarks. 

4  m. 

6 

13 

17 

22 
24 

29 
34 
38 
46 
51 
56 

63 

64} 
69 

7H 

771 
80^ 

TOKV:o(Ueno). 
Oji. 

Akabane  Jet 

Urawa. 

Omiya  Jot 

CUp    trains 

<  change    for 
L    Yokohama. 

C  Change       for 
■5     Nikko    and 
C    the  North. 

See  p.  96. 

rOhange  for 

<  Karuizawa 
(.   &  Maebanhi. 

|Alight    for 
i      Myogi-san. 

Ageo. 
Okegawa. 
Kdnosu 

Pukiage. 

Kumagai. 

Fnkaya. 

Honj6. 

Shimmachi. 

TAKASAKI 
Jet 

lizuka. 
Annaka. 

Isobe 

Matsuida. 
YOKOKAWA. 

The  construction  of  this  line  of 
railway,  intended  to  lead  over  the 
Usui-toge  to  Karuizawa  and  connect 
with  the  Karuizawa-Naoetsu  line, 
has  been  temporarily  suspended  at 
Yokokawa,  near  the  foot  of  the  pass, 
owing  to  engineering  difficulties. 
The  line  closely  follows  the  first 
stages  of  the  old  Nakasendo  (see 
Route  39),  and  is  flat  and  uninter- 
esting till  TakasaJd  Junction  is 
passed. 

Urawa  (InUy  Yamaguchi-ya)  is 
the  seat  of  government  of  the  prefec- 
ture of  Saitama,  which  includes  the 
greater  part  of  the  province  of 
Musashi  except  Tokyo. 

Omiya  (Inn,  Takashima-ya  in  the 
Public  Garden  supplies  foreign  food). 
An  avenue  of  1  m.  in  lenglh  leads 
to  the  Hikawa  no  Jinja,  the  chief 
Shinto  temple  of  the  province  of 
Musashi,  situated  in  grounds  which 
have  been  turned  into  a  public 
garden.  The  temple  is  said  to  have 
been  founded  in  honour  of  Susano-o 
by  Yamato-take,  on  his  return  from 
subduing  the  barbarous  tribes  of  the 
East.  Leaving  Omiya,  the  first 
place  of  importance  reached  is 

Kumagai  (Inn,  Shimizu  -  ya), 
which  carries  on  a  large  trade  in  silk 
and  cotton.  This  town  possesses 
historical  interest  in  connection 
with  the  warrior  Kumagai  Naozane 
(see  p.  42).     At 

Honjo  (Inn,  Moroi)  there  are 
some  important  cross  -  country 
roads,  one  of  which  joins  the  Rei- 
heishi  Kaidb,  the  route  formerly 
followed  by  the  Mikado's  annual 
envoy  to  the  shrine  of  leyasu  at 
Nikko,  but  no^  for  the  most  part 
deserted  by  travellers. 

Shimmachi  (Inn,  Mitsumata) 
is  a  large  silk  producing  place. 

Takasaki  (Inn,  Sakai-ya ;  Restt., 
Sumiyoshi,  at  station)  was  formerly 
the  castle- town  of  a  Daimyo,  and  is 
still  an  important  industrial  centre. 

[The  railway  branches  off  here  to 
Maebashi,  6  m.,  where  it  meets 
the  Byomo  line  from  Oyama 
(see     Boute     15).      Maebashi 


Isohe,     Myogi'San, 


141 


{IiinSj  Akagi-tei,  foreign  food ; 
Abura-ya),  formerly  the  seat  of 
a  great  Daimyo  named  Matsu- 
daira  Yamato-no-Kami,  is  now 
the  capital  of  the  prefecture  of 
Gumma,  and  an  important 
centre  of  the  silk  trade,  one  of 
the  best  qualities  of  raw  silk 
being  named  after  the  town. 
To  the  N.  rises  the  extinct  vol- 
cano of  Akagi-san,  and  W.  is  the 
curious  group  of  mountains  col- 
lectively called  Haruna,  on  the 
N.  Hank  of  which  are  situated 
the  fashionable  baths  of  Ikao, 
described  in  Koute  14.] 

liziika  is  a  station  at  the  W.  end 
of  Takasaki,  some  distance  from 
the  business  part  of  the  town.  It 
is  on  one  of  the  roads  to  Ikao. 

Isobe  (InnSy  *Ky6ju-kwan,  Haya- 
shi-ya,  and  others).  This  is  the 
best  station  to  alight  at  for  a  visit  to 
the  Remarkable  conglomeration  of 
rocks  crowning  Myogi-san.  The  inns 
are  in  all  respects  pleasanter  than 
those  at  the  vill.  of  Myogi  at  the 
foot  of  the  mountain.  But  travel- 
lers coming  eastwards  from  Karui- 
zawa  may  alight  at  Matsuida, 
tbe  station  beyond,  the  distance 
from  each  of  these  two  places  to 
Myogi  being  about  the  same.  Isobe 
is  reached  in  4  hrs.  by  rail,  and 
My5gi  by  toad  in  1  hr.  more ;  and 
as  less  than  a  day  is  required  for 
seeing  the  marvels  of  the  moun- 
tain, the  journey  from  the  capital 
and  back  may  thus  be  accomplished 
in  a  day  and  a  half. 

Isobe  is  a  watering-place  of  recent 
growth,  lying  in  a  wide  valley  less 
than  1,000  ft.  above  the  level  of 
the  sea.  Exposed  as  it  is  on  all 
sides,  it  is  neither  mild  in  winter 
nor  cool  in  summer.  The  mineral 
waters  of  Isobe  contain  a  large 
quantity  of  carbonic  acid  gas,  and, 
nnlike  most  other  Japanese  springs, 
ace  beneficial  to  persons  suJSering 
from  catarrh  of  the  stomach  and 
other  internal  complaints.  On  the 
road  to  Myogi,  a  good  view  is 
obtained  of  Akagi-san  and  Haruna- 
san  to  the  N.,  and  Asama-yama  to 


the  W.  If  the  visit  be  made  in 
autumn,  the  precipitous  sides  of 
the  MyOgi  range  will  be  found 
in  a  glow  of  rich  colour  arising  from 
the  crimson  tints  of  the  maples  th^t 
mingle  with  the  variegated  leaves  of 
other  trees,  and  render  the  scene  one 
of  beauty  as  well  as  weirdness. 

Mydgi  (InnSf  Shishiya,  Kambe- 
ya)  is  an  insignificant  village. 

The  shrine  at  MyOgi  is  dedicated  to  the 
memory  of  the  18th  abbot  of  Enryaknji, 
a  temple  on  Hiei-zan  near  Kydto,  who,  ia 
the  reign  of  the  Emperor  Daigo  ( A.D.  808- 
930),  retired  here  to  mourn  over  the 
sudden  downfall  and  banishment  of  his 
pupil,  the  famous  Sugawara-no-Michisane. 
After  his  death,  he  was  deified  under 
the  title  of  Myogi  Dai  Gongen.  Over  two 
centuries  ago,  a  fresh  fit  of  zeal  on  the 
part  of  his  devotees  was  the  cause  of  the 
shrine  being  rebuilt  in  the  grand  style  of 
which  the  traces  still  remain.  It  is  now 
in  charge  of  Shinto  priests. 

The  temple  stand  a  shorts  distance 
above  the  village,  in  the  midst  of 
a  grove  of  magnificent  crypto- 
merias.  The  Oku-no-in  is  25  nM 
further  up  the  mountain,  and  above 
this  the  clifis  are  nearly  per- 
pendicgalar.  A  rocky  cave,  formed 
by  a  huge  block  resting  in  a  fissure^ 
contains  an  image  of  the  god.  On 
the  summit  of  one  of  the  j  uttiri^  peaks 
near  the  Oku-no-in,  is  the  enormous 
Chinese  character  ^  (dai)^  *  great.* 
Its  dimensions  are  stated  at  80  ft.  hf 
20  ft.,  and  it  is  constructed  of  thin 
bamboos  tied  together.  It  is  covered 
with  strips  of  paper,  the  votive 
ofierings  of  pilgrims,  which  give  it 
the  appearance  from  below  of  being 
painted  white.  The  surrounding 
scenery  is  most  romantic.  From 
the  bosom  of  a  gloomy  grove  rise 
innumerable  rocky  pinnacles,  grad- 
ually increasing  in  height  round 
a  lofty  central  peak,  the  whole 
vaguely  recalling  the  front  of  some 
colossal  Gothic  cathedral. 

Dr.  Naumann  describes  Myogi- 
san  as  a  system  ol  grand  acute- 
edged,  deeply  serrated  dykes,  ap- 
parently radiating  from  a  oommcm 
centre,  whose  highest  smnmit  is 
about  3,650  ft.  in  height.  Pro- 
bably it  is  the  skeleton  of  a  ^veaj 


W 


142 


Route  13, — Karidzuiva  and  Asamayama, 


old  volcano.  The  ascent  of  the 
highest  peak  visible  from  the  vill.  of 
My5gi  can  be  accomplished  in  less 
than  half  a  day.  To  scale  this  peak 
is  a  rather  dangerous  undertaking. 
Those,  however,  who  can  appreciate 
the  delights  of  rough  and  difficult 
climbing,  ought  not  to  miss  the 
opportunity  of  mounting  Hakun- 
zan,  the  jagged  ridge  rising  directly 
above  the  village.  The  S.  wing  is 
called  Kinkei-san  ;  Kinto-san  is  be- 
tween the  two.  The  highest  point 
of  Myogi-san  is  behind  Hakun-zan. 
Bdsokit-ishij  *  the  Candle-Stone,'  is  a 
conspicuous  projection  belonging 
to  Kinkei-san  and  forming  the 
N.W.  termination  of  this  dyke. 
It  takes  about  1^  hr.  to  get  from 
the  vill.  to  Daikoku-san,  where  is  a 
small  shrine  at  the  foot  of  the  Hige- 
suri-iwa,  or  *  Beard- Scraping  Rock,' 
a  slender  column  of  volcanic  breccia. 
The  last  10  ft.  of  the  climb  up 
the  Hige-suri-iwa  is  achieved  with 
the  assistance  of  an  iron  chain 
and  ladder  fixed  in  the  rock. 
From  this  coign  of  vantage,  the  lofty 
peak  of  Naka-no-take  and  many 
other  curious  rocks  are  visible. 
The  way  to  Daikoku-san  leads  over 
the  pass  between  Kinkei-sao  and 
Kinto-san.  A  gigantic  natural  arch, 
called  Ichi  no  Sekhnon^  is  passed 
on  this  way.  Kurakake-san  is 
of  smaller  size  and  higher  up. 
Ni  no  Sekimon  and  San  no  Seki- 
mon  are  clefts  in  the  mountain, 
further  on,  reached  after  a  break- 
neck climb.  The  perforation  in 
Ni-no-Sekimon  is  invisible  from  this 
side  of  the  mountain,  but  is  to  be 
seen  from  Yokokawa  and  the  Usui- 
toge.  According  to  local  tradition, 
the  hole  was  made  by  an  arrow 
shot  from  the  bow  of  a  certain  Yuri- 
waka  Daijin  while  standing  at  the 
vill.  of  Yokokawa.  The  modern- 
looking  edifice  below  the  Hige-Suri- 
iwa  was  built  for  the  priests,  after 
the  burning  of  the  two  temples 
there  in  1872. 

Leaving  ^lyogi,  the  railway  may 
be  rejoined  at  Matsaida;  or  else 


one  may  walk  on  for  2  ri  to  a, 
point  a  little  further  along  the 
Nakasendo  near 

Yok<»kiiwa  {Inns,  *Ogino-ya,  Ko- 
dake-ya,  both  at  the  station). 


ROUTE  13. 
Karuizawa  and  Asama-yama. 

1. — Kabuizawa    and   Neighbour- 
hood. 

Karuizawa  is  reached  from  Tokyo 
by  the  Tokyo  Takasaki-Yokokawa 
Railway,  4^  hrs.  to  the  present  ter- 
minus, Yokokawa.  A  new  section, 
carrying  the  line  over  the  Usui  Pass, 
is  now  in  course  of  construction. 
From  Yokokawa  onwards  there  is  a 
choice  of  roads,  namely : — 

I.  The  carriage  road,  also  used 
for  jinrikishas  and  for  the  horse 
tramway.  This  road  does  not  pass 
the  old  vill.  of  Karuizawa,  but 
crosses  further  south  to  Shin-Ka- 
ruizawa  (New  Karuizawa).  The 
cars,  small  and  uncomfortable,  but 
nevertheless  the  best  means  of 
conveyance,  take  2^  hrs.  to  make 
the  journey,  which,  owing  to  the 
narrowness  of  the  gauge,  the  ser- 
pentine windings  of  the  road,  the 
precipitous  slopes  skirted  on  one 
side  and  the  jagged  rocks  on  the 
other,  is  of  a  somewhat  exciting 
character.  The  distance  traversed  by 
car  is  11^  miles.  Shin- Karuizawa 
{Inn,  Abura-ya)  is  J  hr.  by  jinrikisha 
from  the  old  vill.  (Kyu-Karuizawa). 

II.  The  pedestrian  road,  leading 
over  the  summit  of  the  pass,  and 
only  just  practicable  for  jinrikishas. 
It  is,  however,  excellent  for  walking, 
the  soil  being  a  combination  of  vol- 
canic matter,  clay,  and  sand,.which 
is  very  porous  and  binds  well.  This 
road  is  a  favourite  one  with  the 
summer  visitors  to  Karuizawa.  The 
pass  is  thickly  wooded ;  but  views 
of  the  extensive  plain  below,  with 


Kaniizaira. 


148 


the  rocky  peaks  of  Myogi-san  on 
the  r.  and  the  bolder  mountains  of 
Kotsuke  on  the  1.  (looking  back), 
are  obtained  at  several  points  during 
the  ascent.  From  the  half-way 
tea-houses,  the  road  winds  gradually 
up  to  the  summit,  6  m.  from 
Yokokawa,  and  commands  a  fine 
prospect  of  the  extinct  volcanoes 
of  Haruna  and  Akagi,  Tsukuba-san, 
and  the  precipitous  rocks  on  the 
S.  of  the  pass  which  form  the 
boundary  between  Kotsuke  and  Shin- 
shu.  On  the  summit  of  the  pass 
(4,050  ft.),  there  are  a  few  houses 
and  a  small  temple.  The  view  from 
the  steps  of  the  shrine,  although 
extensive,  is  so  often  obscured  by 
clouds  of  mist  sweeping  over  the 
summit,  that  the  traveller  has  but  a 
rare  chance  of  enjoying  a  clear 
prospect. 

In  this  spot  is  localised  the  following 
le^nd,  which  is  preserved  in  the  Kqjiki  .— 

When  Yamato-take  was  crossing  from 
Sagami  to  Kazusa  in  the  course  of  his 
expedition  against  the  barbarous  tribes 
who  then  inhabited  that  region,  (he  ridi- 
culed) the  name  of  Ua»hiri-mizu  (Running 
water)  given  to  the  strait,  and  exclaimed 
that  it  was  no  more  than  an  easy  jump 
across.  The  Sea-Gorl,  offended  at  this 
insult,  so  disturbed  the  waters  that  Ya- 
mato-take's  ship  was  unable  to  advance. 
Upon  this,  his  consort  Oto-Tachibana- 
Hime  said  to  him,  '  I  will  drown  myself 
in  your  stead  '—and  as  she  plunged  into 
the  sea,  the  waves  became  still.  Seven 
days  afterwards  her  comb  floated  ashore. 
ITie  prince  built  a  tomb,  and  deposited 
the  comb  therein.  In  returning  to  the 
capital  after  subduing  the  triljes,  he 
stopped  to  rest  at  the  top  of  the  Usui 
Pass,  and  gazing  over  the  plain,  said 
thrice  in  a  melancholy  voice  :  'Azvma  «Yr. 
ya'CAlas!  my  wife'),  whence  the  name 
of  Aznma  by  which  Eastern  Japan  is  still 
known. 

Kjrfi-Knrnizawa  (Imiy  Bansho- 
kwan)  lies  in  the  upper  corner  of  a 
grassy  moor,  780  ft.  below  the 
summit  of  the  pass.  During  the 
descent,  Asama-yama,  the  Koslm 
Shirane-san  and  Koma-ga-take,  Ya- 
tsu-ga-take,  and  Tateshina-yama 
come  into  view.  The  vill.  was  in 
former  times  principally  dependent 
upon  travellers  over  the  ancient 
highway,  and  appears  to  have  just 
escaped  ruin,  after  the  construction 


of  the  railway,  by  a  number  of  the 
foreign  residents  of  Tokyo  making  it 
a  retreat  from  the  imhealthy  heat  of 
the  city  during  the  summer  months. 
The  old  inns  have  been  hired,  and 
a  few  new  villas  built  on  the  moun- 
tain slopes.  Its  lofty  situation 
(3,270  ft.)  gives  it  a  temperature 
seldom  excessive  during  the  day, 
and  invariably  cool  at  night.  The 
rainfall,  although  heavy,  bears 
favourable  comparison  with  Nikko 
and  other  mountain  resorts,  and 
owing  to  the  porous  nature  of  the 
soil  in  the  vicinity,  leaves  fewer 
traces  behind.  The  place  is  never- 
theless not  free  from  mosquitoes, 
and  the  small  sand-fly  called  buyu 
abounds, — an  insect  which  inflicts  a 
bite,  painless  at  flrst,  but  afterwards 
extremely  irritable  and  liable  to 
swell  during  several  succeeding  days. 
Bread,  milk,  and  occasionally  beef 
and  flsh  are  obtainable.  An  un- 
cultivated moor,  covered  with  wild- 
flowers  in  July  and  August,  extends 
for  miles  in  a  southerly  direction, 
while  on  theE.it  terminates  in  a 
range  of  grassy  hills. 

The  chief  excursion  from  Karui- 
zawa  is  the  ascent  of  Asama-yama 
(seep.  144).  There  is  also  a  variety 
of  shorter  walks,  viz. 

1.  Ata^o-yama.  This  isolated 
hill,  20  min.  walk  from  the  vill., 
is  ascended  by  two  flights  of  stone 
steps,  and  has  some  curious  perpen- 
dicular rocks  half-way  up. 

2.  Ilaniire-yania,  about  1  m.  off. 
On  its  E.  side,  near  the  summit,  is 
a  large  cave  inhabited  by  bats. 
It  may  be  reached  in  about  an 
hour  by  a  very  rough  climb  up  a 
precipitous  landslip.  The  view 
from  the  narrow  ledge  at  the  mouth 
of  the  cave  is  extensive. 

3.  Iriyaiiia-toge,  1  hr.  by  the 
base  of  the  hills  skirting  the  moor, 
and  past  the  curious  rock  called 
Kamado-iwa  by  the  Japanese,  and 
'  Pulpit  Rock '  by  foreigners.  The 
summit  commands  probably  the 
finest  view  obtainable  of  the  valley 
leading  to  the  base  of  Myogi-san, 
and,  looking  backwards,  of  the  wide 


144 


Route  13, — Karuizawa  and  Asama-yama^ 


stretch  of  moorland  and   Asama- 
yama. 

4.  Wami-togr^.  From  the  foot 
of  the  Iriyama-t5ge,  the  path  keeps 
to  the  r.,  and  in  40  min.  more  the 
road  from  Oiwake  over  the  Wami- 
toge  is  reached.  The  ascent  is  easy. 
After  a  short  hut  steep  descent  on 
the  opposite  side,  a  path  1.  leads  to 
the  hamlet  of  Ongawa  situated  at 
the  base  of  the  Rdsoku-iway  aptly 
re -named  by  foreigners  the  *  Cathe- 
dral Bocks,'  and  remarkable  for  the 
petrified  wood  found  in  the  neigh- 
bourhood. It  is  possible  to  return 
direct  over  the  mountains  to  the 
Karuizawa  plain,  but  the  path  is 
difficult  to  find.  This  excursion 
occupies  the  greater  part  of  a  day. 

5.  Yiinosawa^  ^  hr.,  by  a  path 
leading  from  the  centre  of  the  vill. 
towards  Asama-yama.  In  the  small 
house  here  a  bath  may  be  had, 
tepid  mineral  water  being  brought 
from  the  hill  beyond.  Continuing 
along  the  same  path,  which  soon 
leads  over  more  elevated  ground  and 
passes  through  beautiful  stretches 
of  forest,  the  baths  of 

6.  Kose  are  reached  in  about  an 
hour.  Kose  is  a  tiny  hamlet  in 
a  hollow  of  the  hills,  but  possess- 
es a  commodious  inn  and  good 
baths.  A  very  fair  road  has 
been  built  from  Kose  to  Kutsukake 
on  the  Nakasend5,  a  walk  of  45 
min.  Kutsukake  is  3f  m.  from 
Karuizawa. 

7.  Kiiit.su mi  ( Inn^  *  Chosai- 
kwan).  The  thermal  springs  of  this 
place  are  reached  after  a  3  hrs. 
walk  over  the  Usui  Pass.  Not  far 
from  the  summit  a  narrow  path 
turns  1.,  leading  up  and  down  a  suc- 
cession of  wooded  mountain  gorges, 
till  the  final  descent  is  made  into  the 
vale  in  which  Kiritsumi  nestles  at 
a  height  of  2,700  ft.  The  baths  may 
be  more  conveniently  reached  by 
a  jinrikisha  road  from  Yokokawa, 
2^  ri.  The  way  is  pretty,  but  the 
view  is  shut  out  on  all  sides.  The 
water  of  Kiritsumi  is  slightly  saline, 
with  a  temperature  of  104  F. 
Higher    up,     in     a    neighbouring 


valley,  is  the  old-fashioned  water- 
ing-place of  Irinoyu  with  accom- 
modation only  for  peasant  guests. 
The  baths  are  sulphureous  and  have 
a  high  temperature. 

2. — ASAMA-TAMA. 

Asama-ynifia  (8,280  ft.)  is  not 
only  the  largest  active  volcano  in 
Japan,  but  also  the  most  accessible. 
The  excursion  to  the  top  and  back 
may  be  made  from  Karuizawa  in 
one  day. 

The  last  great  eruption  occurred  in  the 
summer  of  1783,  when  a  vast  stream  of 
lava  destroyed  a  primeval  forest  of  con- 
siderable extent,  together  with  several 
villages  on  the  N.  ^ide.  Subsequent 
eruptions  have  produced  mere  showers 
of  ashes.  At  the  foot  of  the  steep  cone 
the  subterranean  disturbances  can  be 
distinctly  heard,  and  the  sulphureous 
exhalations  near  the  summit  often  make 
this  part  of  the  ascent  very  oppressive. 

The  ascent  from  the  Wdkasare- 
no-Chayay  a  hut  on  the  road  to 
Kusatsu,  is  the  one  now  usually 
made,  and  is  certainly  the  least 
fatiguing.  The  best  plan  is  to  hire  a 
horse  at  Karuizawa,  where  foreign 
saddles  may  be  procured,  ride  via 
Kutsukake  (Inrij  Tsuchi-ya)  to  Ko- 
Asama  (2^  hrs.),  the  small  excres- 
cence on  the  mountain  side,  and 
walk  up  by  the  Wakasare-no-chaya 
path.  The  climb  is  steep,  but  the 
path  a  good  solid  one  of  cinders, 
marked  at  intervals  by  small  cairns. 
The  time  taken  to  the  edge  of  the 
crater  is  about  2  hrs. 

The  crater  is  circular,  about  | 
m.  in  circumference,  with  per- 
pendicular honeycombed  and  burnt 
red  sides,  generally  full  of  sul- 
phureous steam  welling  up  from  the 
bottom  and  from  the  crevices  in  its 
sides.  On  the  S.  side  of  the  moun- 
tain rise  two  precipitous  rocky 
walls,  separated  by  9.  considerable 
interval,  the  outer  one  being  lower 
and  nearly  covered  with  vegetation. 
They  seem  to  be  the  remains  of  two 
successive  concentric  craters,  the 
existing  cone  being  the  third  and 
most  recent.  The  nearer  is  quite 
bare,  and  columnar  in  structure  at 
the  centre.    The  side  of  the  cone  is 


•r 


Boiite  14, — Ikao,  Kitsatsu,  and  NeiyhhourhooiL 


145 


Btrewn  with  large  rough  fragments 
of  loose  lava,  and  unfathomable 
rifts  extend  for  the  greater  part  of 
the  way  down  to  its  base.  The 
view  from  the  summit  is  very  ex- 
tensive:— to  the  N.,  the  whole  of 
the  Kotsuke  mountains  with  the 
Haruna  group  and  Akagi-san  ;  the 
Nikk6  range  and  the  E.  range 
dividing  Shinshu  from  Kotsuke ;  the 
sea  far  away  in  the  distance ;  next 
the  Koshu  mountains  on  the  S., 
with  Fuji  peering  over  them ;  the 
conical  Yatsu-ga- take  and  adjacent 
summits  of  Koshu  ;  and  then  on  the 
W.,  the  huge  range  that  forms  the 
boundary  between  Shinshu  and 
Hida.  The  descent  to  the  Waka- 
sare-no-chaya  takes  about  1}  hr. 

Another  way  up,  occupying  about 
5^  hrs.,  is  from  Oiwake  {Inn,  Naka- 
mura-ya),  a  vill.  on  the  Nakasendo, 
2  rt  14  cho  from  Karuizawa,  and 
formerly  a  place  of  some  note,  but 
much  deteriorated  since  railway 
enterprise  diverted  the  traffic  from 
the  highway.  On  leaving  Oiwake, 
the  path  ascends  gently  through 
sloping  meadows  covered  with  wild- 
flowers  ;  then  the  acclivity  becomes 
greater,  and  gritty  ash  is  reached. 
At  an  elevation  of  1,145  ft.  above 
Oiwake,  is  a  cascade  hidden  among 
the  trees  that  skirt  a  deep  gorge. 
The  height  of  the  fall  is  about  18  ft.; 
the  red  colour  of  the  water  and 
of  the  underlying  rock — volcanic" 
breccia  covered  with  a  red  crust — 
give  it  a  strange  appearance.  At  a 
height  of  8,225  ft.  above  Oiwake,  all 
vegetation  ceases.  For  1,600  ft. 
more,  the  path  proceeds  up  a  steep 
ascent  of  loose  ash  to  the  edge  of 
the  outer  ridge,  which  from  the  vill. 
below  appears  to  be  the  summit, 
though  in  reality  below  it.  The 
path  then  descends,  and  crosses  over 
to  the  base  of  the  present  cone, 
which  is  more  easily  climbed. 

Dr.  Rein  recommends  ascending 
from  KomorOf  a  station  on  the 
Kaniizawa-Naoetsu  line,  13^  m. 
from  Karuizawa.  This  ascent  joins 
the  path  from  Oiwake  at  the  little 
cascade  mentioned  above. 


ROUTE  14. 

Ikao,  Kusatsu,  and   Neighbour- 
hood. 

1.  ikao.  2.  walks  and  excursions 
from  ikao:  haruna,  the  hot 
springs  of  shima,  ikao  to  asama- 
yama.  8.  kusatsu.  4.  walks 
in  the  neighbourhood  of  kusa- 
tsu. 5.  from  kusatsu  to  nagano 
over  the  shibu-tooe,  ascent 
of  shirane-san,  the  torii-toge. 

1. — Ikao. 

Ikao  is  a  short  day's  journey 
from  Tokyo  (Ueno  station)  to  Maie- 
bashi  by  the  Takasaki-Maebashi 
Railway  in  3^  hrs.  (see  p.  140) ; 
thence  6  ri  8  cJio  (15  m.)  partly  by 
tram,  partly  by  carriage  or  jinriki- 
sha,  but  jinrikisha  the  whole  way  to 
be  preferred  at  present.  The  latter 
part  of  the  ride  is  uphill,  so  that 
two  men  are  indispensable. 

Hotels. — *Muramatsu,  •  KindayB, 
European  style.  There  are  also  the 
Budaiyu,  Chigura,  Shimada  Hachi- 
ro,  and  other  good  inns  in  Japanese 
style. 

Ikao,  one  of  the  best  summer 
resorts  in  Japan,  is  built  on  ter- 
races along  the  N.  E.  slope  of 
Mount  Haruna,  at  an  elevation 
varying  from  2,500  to  2,700  ft.  The 
picturesque  main  street,  which  di- 
vides the  vill.  into  an  eastern  and 
a  western  part,  consists  of. one  near- 
ly continuous  steep  flight  of  steps. 
The  houses  W.  of  the  steps  border 
on  a  deep  ravine  called  the  Yusawa, 
through  which  rushes  a  foaming  tor- 
rent. Ikao  has  the  advantage  of  cool 
nights,  absence  of  mosquitoes,  and 
an  unusually  beautiful  situation, 
offering  from  nearly  every  house  a 
grand  view  of  the  valleys  of  the 
Agatsuma-gawa  and  Tonegawa, 
and  of  the  high  mountain-ranges 
on  the  border  of  the  great  plain 
in  which  Tokyo  is  situated.  From 
no  other  place  can  the  Nikko 
mountains    be  seen    to    such    ad- 


146 


Boiite  14, — Ikao  and  KnHatm, 


vantage.  It  is  famous  for  its 
mineral  springs,  which  have  a 
temperature  of  45°  C.  (115°  F.),  and 
which  contain  a  small  amount  of 
iron  and  sulphate  of  soda.  The 
springs  have  been  known  since 
prehistoric  times.  According  to  the 
Japanese  style  of  bathing,  the  hot 
baths  are  made  use  of  several  times 
a  day,  and  indiscriminately  by 
patients  of  every  description.  Late- 
ly the  water  has  been  used  for 
drinking  purposes,  but  it  has  little 
more  efiect  than  pure  hot  water. 

2. — Walks  and  Excursions  from 
Ikao. 

1.  Along  the  Yusawa  ravine  to 
Yiiinoto,  about  ^  m.,  nearly  level. 
Yu-moto  means  lit.,  *  the  source  of 
the  hot  water.'  Seats  are  erected 
for  the  accommodation  of  visitors, 
who  resort  there  lo  drink  of  the 
mineral  spring.  The  water,  which 
at  its  source  is  quite  clear,  has  a 
slightly  inky  taste.  On  being  ex- 
posed to  the  air  the  carbonic  acid 
evaporates,  and  part  of  the  iron 
which  the  water  contains  is  preci- 
pitated as  a  yellowish  mass.  This 
covers  the  bed  of  the  river  and  the 
bottom  of  the  aqueduct,  and  gives 
the  water  in  the  baths  a  thick, 
discoloured  appearance.  The  people, 
who  have  great  faith  in  the  strength- 
ening effects  of  this  precipitated 
iron  salt,  place  large  strips  of  cotton 
cloth  in  the  stream.  When  the 
cloth  has  assumed  a  deep  yellow 
'colour,  it  is  taken  out,  dried,  and 
used  as  a  belt  round  the  body.  The 
mineral  water  is  led  down  to  Ikao 
from  Yusawa  in  bamboo  pipes. 

2.  Up  Konipira-snii,  ihr.  climb. 
Though  of  no  great  height,  the 
top  commands  an  extensive  view, 
stretching  from  Shirane-san  near 
Kusatsu  to  Tsukuba-san  in  Hitachi, 
and  including  the  Mikuni  and  Nikko 
ranges,  Akagi-san,  and  the  valley 
of  the  Tonegawa.  Just  below  the 
summit,  a  narrow  path  leads  over 
the  ridge  to  Futatsu-dake. 

3.  To  Miishi*yii  (lit.,  'the  steam 


bath '),  so  called  from  the  sulphur- 
eous gases  which  here  emanate 
from  holes  in  the  ground,  over 
which  huts  have  been  erected  for  the 
treatment  of  rheumatic  patients. 
The  number  of  naked  people  gene- 
rally standing  about  at  Mushi-yu 
makes  this  place  unsightly.  The 
time  taken  to  reach  the  baths 
is  about  f  hr.  Sengen-yama,  Fu- 
tatsu-dake, and  Soma  may  all  be 
ascended  from  Mushi-yu.  The 
view  from  the  top  of  Soma  (4,500 
ft.  above  the  sea  level,  1,800  ft. 
above  Ikao)  is  magnificent.  The 
summit  of  Fuji  appears  over  the 
Chichibu  mountains  nearly  due 
S.  To  the  W.  of  it  are  seen  the 
Koshu  Shirane,  the  Koma-ga-take's 
of  Koshii  and  Shinshii  seemingly 
in  close  proximity,  then  Yatsu-ga- 
take,  Ontake  about  W.  S.  W.,  Asa- 
ma-yama  a  little  to  the  S.  of  W., 
Yahazu-yama  W.  N.  W.,  then  the 
Shirane  of  Kusatsu,  and  a  part  of 
the  Hida-Shinshii  range.  Eastwards 
rise  Tsukuba-san  and  the  Shirane 
of  Nikko,  with  one  of  the  peaks  of 
Akagi-san  half-way  between  them. 
The  town  of  Maebashi  is  visible  to 
to  the  E.  S.  E.,  with  the  Tonegawa 
half  encircling  it,  before  pursuing 
its  course  down  the  plain.  Soma 
may  also  be  ascended  from  the  path 
to  Haruna. 

4.  To  the  pretty  little  waterfall 
of  Renteri-daki,  on  the  stream 
which  issues  from  Lake  Haruna ; 
1  hr.  easy  walking. 

5.  To  Hnriina,  about  4  m.  to  the 
lake,  and  1^  m.  more  on  to  the 
temple.  This  is  by  far  the  prettiest 
expedition  from  Ikao.  Most  people 
will  prefer  to  walk,  but  it  is  possible 
for  a  jinrikisha  to  get  there :  better 
take  8  coolies. 

[On  the  way  to  Haruna,  a  con- 
spicuous conical  hill  called 
the  Haruna  Fuji  is  passed, 
the  ascent  of  which  occupies 
about  I  hr.  from  the  place 
where  the  path  diverges.  The 
near  view  from  the  summit  is 
very    beautiful,    showing    the 


Ilaruna.     Shiiiia.     Kuxatsu. 


147 


lake  and  surroundiDg  moun- 
tains to  great  advantage.  The 
distant  prospect  includes  most 
of  the  view  already  described 
as  seen  from  Soma. — The  best 
plan  is  to  make  of  this  a 
separate  expedition.  There  is 
grazing-ground  for  cattle  on 
this  little  Fuji.  It  is  there 
that  the  milch -cows  that  supply 
Ikao  are  kept.] 

Lake  Harnna,  which  apparently 
occupies  the  site  of  an  extinct 
crater,  contains  salmon  and  other 
fish.  On  its  border  is  a  tea-house 
where  one  may  lunch.  From  the 
lake  it  is  a  short  and  easy  ascent 
to  the  top  of  a  pass  called  the 
Tefijin-toge,  some  800  ft.  above 
Ikao,  commanding  an  extensive 
view.  From  the  Tenjin-tdge  the 
path  descends  a  wooded  glen  to 
the  ancient  Shinto  temple  of 
Haruna,  situated  amongst  precipi- 
tous and  overhanging  volcanic  rocks, 
in  a  grove  of  lofty  cryptomerias. 
It  is  dedicated  to  Ho-musubi,  the 
God  of  Fire,  and  Haniyasu-hime,  the 
Goddess  of  Earth.  Over  the  princi- 
pal building,  which  is  decoratjed 
with  excellent  wood-carvings  (espe- 
cially two  dragons  twined  round 
the  side-beams  of  the  porch),  hangs 
a  huge  rock  supported  on  a  slender 
base,  which  seems  every  moment  to 
threaten  the  temple  with  destruc- 
tion. The  whole  site  is  one  of  the 
most  weird  and  fantastic  that 
can  be  imagined,  nature  appearing 
to  have  lain  a  wager  here  to  per- 
form quaint  feats  in  stone,  the  least 
malleable  of  all  materials. 

6.  The  hot  springs  of  Sliima  lie 
nearly  8  ri  from  Ikao,  so  that  an 
expedition  there  involves  staying 
the  night.  Shima  may  most  con- 
veniently be  taken  en  route  to  Kusa- 
tsu,  the  way  being  the  same  as  far 
as  20  cho  past  Nakanojo,  on  the 
road  to  Sawatari.  Jinrikishas  can 
be  taken,  but  must  occasionally  be 
alighted  from.  Shima  includes  two 
hamlets,  called  respectively  Yama- 
guchi  Onsen   and    Arai-yu,  8  cho 


distant  from  each  other.  Travel- 
lers are  recommended  not  to  stay 
at  the  former,  but  to  go  on  to  Arai- 
yu  and  put  up  at  the  inn  kept  by 
Tamura  MosaburO.  The  hamlet  is 
picturesquely  situated  close  to  the 
river,  on  whose  bank  the  springs 
which  supply  the  baths  gush  forth. 
Travellers  not  returning  to  Ikao,  but 
going  on  to  Sawatari,  need  not  pass 
again  through  Nakanojo,  as  there 
is  a  shorter  cut  from  a  place  called 
Kimino.  It  is,  however,  scarcely 
passable  for  jinrikishas. 

7.  To  Asama-yama.  It  is  a  2 
days'  trip  from  Ikao  to  the 
volcano.  The  first  day  takes  one 
by  jinrikisha  to  lizuka  (the  station 
at  the  W.  end  of  Takasaki),  7  ri 
8  choy  whence  train  to  Yokokawa 
and  tram  to  Karuizawa,  where  sleep. 
For  the  ascent  on  the  second  day 
see  p.  144. 

An  alternative  way  for  the  pedes- 
trian on  the  first  day,  is  to  go  over 
the  mountains  from  Ikao  vi&  Haru- 
na-san  to  Kami  Moroda,  Sangen- 
jaya,  and  Matsuida  statioui, — a 
splendid  day's  walk.  From  Matsu- 
ida to  Karuizawa,  train  and  tram, 
as  above.  Matsuida  is  also  the  sta- 
tion for  MyOgi-san  (see  p.  141). 

3.    KUSATSU. 

The  stalwart  pedestrian  can  walk 
over  from  Ikao  to  Kusatsu  in  one 
long  day  w'lk  Gochoda,  Nakanojd, 
Sawatari,  and  Namazu,-^a  delight- 
fully picturesque  expedition  of  11^ 
ri  (28  m.),  or  else  one  may  take  a 
pack-horse.  There  is  no  good  ac- 
commodation to  be  had  on  the  way ; 
but  should  a  break  in  the  journey 
become  indispensable,  Sawatari 
(Inn^  Shin  Kanoya),  a  small  bathing 
vill.  6  ri  9  cho  from  Ikao,  will  pro- 
bably be  found  the  least  uncom- 
fortable place  at  which  to  spend  the 
night. 

An  alternative  way  from  Ikao  to 
Kusatsu  is  vi&  the  hamlets  of  Go- 
choda, Haramachi,  Yokoya,  and  Na- 
ganohara,  a  distance  of  nearly  14  rL 
This  way  is   much   recommended 


us 


Route  14. — Ikiio  and  Kasatsu, 


on  account  of  thfe  beautiful  scenery 
of  portions  of  the  valley  of  the 
Agatsuma-gawa.  It  is  practicable 
for  jinrikishas  from  Gochoda  to 
Yokoya,  and  for  pack-horses  the 
remainder  of  the  way.  There  is  no 
accommodation  on  the  way  until 
reaching  Naganohara. 

Kusatsu  can  also  easily  be  reached 
from  Tokyo  by  taking  the  railway 
to  Karuizawa  (see  p.  140),  whence  it 
is  an  11  ri  journey  across  the  open, 
park-like  country  lying  at  the  base 
of  Asama-yama.  Another  way  from 
Tokyo — both  convenient  and  pretty 
— is  by  rail  to  Toyono  near  Nagano 
on  the  Karuizawa-Naoetsu  Railway, 
and  thence  vi&  Shibu,  as  explained 
on  p.  149.  Both  these  latter  ways 
take  2  days  from  Tokyo. 

Kusatsu,  (3,800  ft.  above  sea- 
level),  whose  trim,  cleanly  ap- 
pearance strongly  recalls  that  of  a 
village  in  the  Tyrol,  is  the  coolest  of 
Japan's  summer  resorts,  and  mos- 
quitoes are  altogether  unknown. 
Visitors  who,  attracted  by  these  con- 
siderations, may  think  of  spending 
any  time  there,  must  however  re- 
member that  the  mineral  waters  are 
specially  efficacious — not  only  in 
rheumatism,  and,  as  recently  dis- 
covered by  Dr.  Baelz,  in  gout — but  in 
syphilis,  leprosy,  and  other  loath- 
some diseases.  Indeed,  the  effect  of 
the  waters  at  first  is  to  bring  out  new 
sores  more  plentiful  than  the  old, 
and  the  horrors  that  walk  the 
streets  must  be  seen  to  be  believed. 
The  chief  constituents  of  the  Kusa- 
tsu springs  are  mineral  acids, 
sulphur,  and  arsenic.  Some  of  the 
springs  are  cold;  the  temperature 
of  others  is  extremely  high,  ranging 
from  113°  to  130°  Fahrenheit,  ac- 
cording to  the  spring.  Even  the 
Japanese,  inured  as  they  are  to 
hot  baths,  find  their  courage  fail 
them ;  and  the  native  invalids  are 
therefore  taken  to  bathe  in  squads 
under  a  semi-military  discipline  to 
which  they  voluntarily  submit. 
Most  curious  is  the  sort  of  ohorio 
chant  which  takes  place  between 
the  bathers  and    their    leader    on 


entering  and  while  sitting  in  the 
bath,  a  trial  which,  though  lasting 
only  from  3^  to  4  minutes,  seems  au 
eternity  to  their  festering,  agonised 
bodies.  First  of  all,  the  bathers  are 
made  to  pour  hot  water  over  their 
heads  many  times,  to  avoid  the 
risk  of  congestion.  After  the  lapse 
of  about  one  minute,  the  leader 
cries  out,  and  the  others  all  res- 
pond in  unison.  After  a  little  he 
cries  out,  *  Three  minutes  have 
passed.'  —  *  Three  minutes ! '  re- 
echoes the  chorus.  After  another 
half-minute  or  so,  *Two  minutes 
more  I '  then  *  One  minute  more !  * 
the  chorus  answering  each  time 
with  an  inarticulate  murmur.  At 
last  the  leader  cries  *  Finished  !  ' 
whereupon  the  whole  mass  of 
naked  bodies  leap  out  of  the 
water  with  an  alacrity  which  he 
who  has  witnessed  their  slow,  pain- 
ful entry  into  the  place  of  torture 
would  scarcely  have  credited.  The 
usual  plan,  after  a  course  of  the 
Kusatsu  baths,  is  to  go  for  the 
*  after-cure  *  to  Sawatari,  6  ri  9 
cho  distant,  where  the  waters  have 
a  softening  effect  on  the  skin,  and 
quickly  alleviate  the  terrible  irrita- 
tion which  the  acids  contained  in 
the  Kusatsu  waters  produce.  Of 
late  years,  foreigners  have  shown  a 
tendency  to  desert  Sawatari  in 
favour  of  Shibu  (see  p.  149),  which  is 
one  of  the  cleanest  watering-places 
in  Japan,  indeed  a  little  paradise. 

Accommodation. — The  character 
of  the  patients  who  resort  to  Kusa- 
tsu makes  it  incumbent  on  the 
traveller  to  exercise  great  care  in 
the  selection  of  his  hostelry;  and 
if  he  intends  to  make  a  lengthened 
stay,  he  is  advised  to  take  every- 
thing with  him,  even  bedding.  The 
best  house  to  stay  at  is  Ichii^  at  the 
far-end  of  the  village, — rooms  nice, 
baths  separate  and  not  too  hot ; 
charge  (in  1890),  91.50  per  diem  for 
the  room  alone,  $40  by  the  month. 
Yamamoto  Yuhikoro,  and  Kuroiwa 
may  also  be  recommended.  Ichii 
and  Yamamoto  have  each  a  de- 
tached cottage  to  let,  and  any  of  the 


Neighbourhood  of  Kusatsu. 


149 


inns  will  assist  the  traveller  to  ob- 
tain rooms  at  the  temple,  which 
stands  close  to  the  school  and  is 
quite  out  of  reach  of  objectionable 
patients.  The  daily  bath-tax,  which 
allows  one  to  bathe  in  any  or  all 
the  springs  any  number  of  times 
a  day,  "  was,  in  the  summer  of 
1890,  1  sen  8  ri»,  or  less  than  a 
penny. 

4. — Walks  in  the  Neighbourhood  , 
OF  Kusatsu. 

1.  To  the  solfatara  of  Sessho- 
gawnra^  on  the  ^  slope  of  Moto- 
Shirane,  about  1  ri. 

2.  To  Sai-no-Kawara  and  Kori- 

daui^  20  cho.  The  meaning  of  the 
name  Sai-no-Kawara  is  *  the  river- 
bed of  souls.'  On  its  numerous 
rocks  and  boulders,  small  stones 
have  been  piled  up  by  visitors  as 
oflEerings  to  dead  children.  Among 
these  rocks  is  one  called  Yiirugi- 
Ishij  which,  notwithstanding  its- 
being  a  huge  boulder,  is  so  nicely 
balanced  that  it  can  be  moved  by 
the  hand.  Kori-dani  is  so-called  from 
the  frozen  snow  which  is  to  be  found 
there  even  during  the  dog-days. 

3.  To  the  small  Shinto-shrine  of 
Snira  (Suwa-no-jinja),  25  cho. 

4.  Via  Suwa-no-jinja,  Higane, 
Eiyozuka,  and  Hikinuma,  to  Han a- 
shiki  near  Iriyama,  where  the  hot 
springs  spurting  up  in  the  middle 
of  the  cold  stream  afford  the  means 
for  a  bath  of  an  unwontedly  two- 
fold character.    About  2^  ri, 

5.  Part  of  the  way  to  Otokii,  up  a 
pathless  hill  to  a  place  which,  just 
above  thirty-three  stone  images  of 
Kwannon,  offers  a  magnificent  pano- 
rama of  the  whole  neighbouring 
country.  Distance,  about  1  ri;  on 
to  Otoku,  about  20  cho  more. 

6.  To  Xaniao,  1  ri. 

7.  To  Kosame^  IJ  ri  on  the  way 
to  Sawatari. 

8.  To  Uikage.  2  ri, 

9-  To  San-no-sawa>  25  cho  on 
the  way  to  Elaruizawa,  and  through 


a  splendid  forest  to  Haneo  or  to 
Maeguchi,  20  cho  more.  Or  else 
to  San-no-sawa  by  the  new  road, 
which  skirts  Moto-Shirane  and  is 
therefore  somewhat  longer.  A  path 
leads  hence,  10  cho,  up  one  of  the 
spurs  of  Moto-Shirane  to  a  small 
stone  shrine  with  a  fine  view  of 
Asama-yama  and  other  mountains, 

5. — KUSATSU  TO  NAGANO  OVER  THE 
SHIBU-TOGE,  INCLUDING  ASCENT 
OP  SHIRANE-SAN.     THE  TORII-TOGE. 

Itinerary. 

KUSATSU  to  :—         Bi\  Cho.  M. 
Top  of    the    Shibu- 

toge 2    32    7 

SHIBU 3    22    8J 

Toy ono  (Station)....  3    —    7| 
NAGANO 2    29    6J 

Total     12    11    30 


On  foot  or  on  pack-horse  as  far  as 
Shibu  (2,250  ft.  above  the  sea)  ; 
thence  carriage  to  Toyono ;  thence 
train  to  Nagano. 

This  route  affords  very  pretty 
scenery.  Including  the  ascent  of 
Shirane-san,  which  is  a  noteworthy 
volcano,  the  whole  journey  takes  a 
little  more  than  1  day.  The  best 
plan  is  to  leave  Kusatsu  early,  and 
sleep  at  Sllibli  (Inny  *Tsubata-ya), 
catching  the  train  at  Toyono  in 
the  forenoon  of  the  next  day.  Those 
who  do  not  care  to  visit  the  temple 
of  Zenkoji  at  Nagano,  can  either 
continue  on  by  rail  to  Karuizawa 
and  Tokyo,  or'toNaoetsu  on  the  Sea 
of  Japan.  The  route  is  one  special- 
ly recommended  to  those  who  have 
been  taking  the  sulphur  baths  at 
Kusatsu.  Instead  of  going  for  the 
*  after  -  cure  '  to  Sawatari  —  the 
usual  Japanese  routine — they  can 
stay  en  route  at  Shibu,  where  there 
are  thermal  springs  suitable  to  their 
needs,  and  be  far  more  comfortable. 

The  picturesqueness  of  the  road 
from  Kusatsu  to  Shibu  is  purchased 
at  the  expense  of  many  steep  hills. 
On  the  other  hand,  those  who  go  on 


150 


Route  15. — The  Ryonw  Hailway, 


horseback  will  find  that  they  can 
ride  right  into  the  crater  of  Shirane- 
san  without  needing  to  dismount. 
It  is  3  hrs.  from  Kusatsu  to  the 
summit  of  the  cone,  which  is  6,600 
ft.  above  the  level  of  the  sea,  and 
3,000  ft.  above  Kusatsu.  The  crater 
is  oval  in  shape,  its  longer  diameter 
being  about  600  yds.,  its  breadth 
150  yds.  to  200  yds.  The  walls  are 
very  steep ;  but  on  the  E.  side  is 
a  depression, — that  through  which, 
as  already  noticed,  travellers  can 
enter.  The  sight  of  the  large  sul- 
phureous lake,  bubbling  and  seeth- 
ing, is  most  remarkable.  The 
descent  from  the  top  of  the  pass  to 
the  vill.  of  Shibu  is  long  and  steep, 
with  picturesque  views  of  the  river 
gorges.  On  the  way  down,  the 
following  mountains  come  in  sight : 
MyOko-zan  in  Echigo,  Kurohime, 
Togakushi-san,  and  Izuna. 

An  alternative  way  to  Nagano 
from  Kusatsu  is  over  the  Yamada- 
to^e,  which  is  comparatively  short, 
and  where  the  baths  of  Yamada 
may  be  visited.  Another  is  over 
the  Torli-togfi.  Both  of  these 
descend  to  the  vill.  of  Suzaka,  where 
jinrikishas  can  be  obtained.  The 
itinerary  of  the  Torii-toge  route, 
part  of  which  is  picturesque,  is  as 
follows : 

KUSATSU  to;—        BL  Cho,  M. 

Mihara 2  6  5i 

Ozasa 2  30  7 

Tashiro 1  18  3J 

Torii-toge 30  2 

Nire    4  24  11^ 

Suzaka  1  29  4| 

NAGANO 3  11  8 

Total 17      4    41| 


KOUTE  15. 
The  Ry5m6  Railway. 

TEMPLE-CA"S^S    OP    IZURU.       ASCEin? 
OF  AKAGI-SAN. 


Distance 

from 
Tokyo. 

Names 

of 
Stations. 

Remarks. 

48  m. 

54J 
60 

64^ 

71} 

77 
81 

83 

87 
91 
9ii 
994 

TOKYO  (Ueno). 
Oyama 

(  See  Northern 
]     Railway, 
(     Route  24. 

(•Alight    for 
-<     c  a  ve  s  of 
C    Izuru. 

(Road  to  Nik- 
<     kobyWata- 
rase-gawa. 

Tochigi. 
Iwafune. 

SANO 

Ashikaga. 

Omata, 

Kirya. 

OMAMA  

Kunisada. 
Isesaki. 
Komakata. 
MAEBASHI. 

This  line  of  railway,  branching 
oS.  from  the  Northern  line  at 
Oyama,  which  is  reached  in  2^  hrs. 
from  Tokyo,  traverses  the  provinces 
of  Kotsuke  and  Shimotsuke.  It  af- 
fords an  alternative,  though  longer, 
railway  route  from  Tokyo  to  Mae- 
bashi,  and  is  the  easiest  way  of 
reaching  the  hot  springs  of  Ikao  in 
one  day  from  Nikko.  The  scenery 
is  pretty  all  along  the  route. 

Tochig'i  (InnSj  Kanahan,  Yoshi- 
kawa-ya)  is  one  of  the  most  im- 
portant towns  in  Shimotsuke.  Its 
chief  product  is  hempen  thread. 

Sano  or  TemmyO  {IniiSt  Saito, 
Kiku-ya)  is  a  pretty  and  prosperous 
place.  Its  Public  Park  lies  close  to 
the  station.  There  also  exist  the 
ruins  of  a  castle  built  by  Hidesato 
about  900  years  ago. 

[From  Sano  an  excursion  may 
be  made  to  the  very  curious 
limestone  caverns  of  Izuru, 
where  a  temple  dedicated  to 
Kwannon  was  founded  by  Sho- 
d5  Shoniu  in  the  8th  centuiy. 


Caves  of  Izuru,     Aka<ji-san, 


151 


In  these  caves  the  saint  is 
fabled  to  have  taken  up  his 
^bode,  and  passed  three  years 
in  prayer  and  meditation.  They 
Are  about  6  ri  distant  from 
Sano  on  a  mountain  route  to 
Nikko.  Jinrikishas  are  prac- 
ticable most  of  the  way  to  the 
caves.  From  the  vill.  of  IzurUj 
it  is  a  walk  of  2  did  up  a  ravine 
to  the  cave  called  Daishi  no 
Twayat  the  mouth  of  which 
is  high  up  amongst  the  precipi- 
tous rocks,  and  is  only  to  be 
reached  by  ladders.  Further  on 
is  the  cave  sacred  to  Kwannon, 
reached  by  climbing  over  steep 
rocks  with  the  assistance  of 
chains,  and  then  by  ladders  up 
to  a  platform  on  which  stand 
£ome  images  of  Daikoku  and 
Shodo  Shonin.  The  guide 
lights  candles  and  shows  the 
way  into  the  cave,  which  con- 
tains a  large  stalactite,  sup- 
posed to  resemble  a  back  view 
of  the  body  of  Kwannon.  The 
cave  is  evidently  much  deeper, 
but  pilgrims  do  not  usually  go 
further  in.  Close  by  is  a 
hollow  in  the  rock,  with  two 
issues.  The  guide  climbs  up 
a  ladder  to  the  upper  hole,  gets 
inside,  and  after  a  minute  or 
two  appears,  head  first,  out  of 
the  lower.  Half  a  chd  further 
i^  another  cave,  named  after 
the  god  Dainichi  Nyorai,  and 
having  two  branches, — one 
about  50  yds.  deep,  the  other 
penetrating  an  unknown  dis- 
tance into  the  mountain. 

The  silk  goods  produced  at  Sano, 
although  similar  in  kind  to  those  of 
Ashikaga,  are  much  finer  in  quality. 

Ash&agst  (Innsy  Hatsugai,  Saga- 
mi-ro)  is  a  great  centre  of  the  trade 
in  native  cotton  goods,  mostly  woven 
however  from  foreign  yarns. 

Afihikaga  is  celebrated  for  its  Academy 
•*)£  Chinese  learning  {Athikaga  GakkO),  the 
foundation,  of  which  institution  is  tradi- 
tionally ascribed  to  the  eminent  scholar 
Ono-no-Takamora  (A.D.  801— a52).  It 
reached  the  zenith  of  its  prosperity  in  the 
time  of  the    ShOgons  of  the   Ashikaga 


dynasty,  its  last  great  benefactor  being' 
Uesngi  Norizane  wno  died  in  1573.  Thi» 
Academy  possessed  a  magnificent  library 
of  Chinese  works,  and  was  the  chief  centre 
of  Chinese  erudition  and  of  the  worship  of 
Confucius,  until  the  establishment  of  the 
Seido  at  Yedo.  Most  of  the  1x)oks  are 
now  dispersed,  but  the  image  of  Confucius 
still  attracts  visitors. 

Kiryu  (InnSj  Yamane,  Hayashi- 
ya)  also  is  a  large  town,  about  2  ri 
from  its  railway  station.  The  chief 
products  are  crape,  gauze,  and  a 
white  silk  called  kabiUai  which  re- 
sembles tafEety. 

Ouiaina  (Iww,  Tsuru-ya)  is  situat- 
ed near  the  foot  of  Akagi-san.  Tho 
picturesque  road  from  here  to  the 
copper  mines  of  Ashio  by  tho 
valley  of  the  Watarase-gawa  is 
described  in  Route  17.  Omama 
itself  is  a  long  straggling  town,  and, 
like  the  other  places  on  this  railway 
route,  of  little  general  interest,  being 
entirely  devoted  to  sericulture. 

[The  extinct  volcano  of  Akagi- 
Siin  may  be  ascended  from  the 
vill.  of  Ogo,  3  ri  9  did  from 
Omama,  whence  the  climb  will 
take  from  3^  to  4  hrs.  About 
3  hrs.  from  Ogo  we  reach  a 
grassy  knoll  where  the  path 
divides,  the  1.  branch  going  to 
one  of  the  peaks  of  Akagi  known 
as  Nabewari,  the  other  leading 
to  a  lake.  The  peak  rising 
just  above  this  grassy  knoll  is 
Arayama,  4,830  ft.  in  height, 
which  can  be  ascended  in  about 
f  hr.  The  summit  commands  a 
grand  panorama  of  mountains : 
—Fuji  S.  S.  W.,  Kaigane-san 
(part  of  the  Koshu  Shirane-san) 
S.  W.,  the  numerous  peaks  of 
Yatsu-ga-take  with  Tateshina 
nearly  W.  S.  W.,  Asama-yama 
due  W.,  and  the  Kusatsu  Shi- 
rane  about  W.  N.  W.  Nearly 
due  N.  rises  Hodaka-san,  one  of 
the  loftiest  peaks  in  Kotsuke, 
easily  recognised  by  its  double 
top.  The  descent  from  Ara- 
yama on  the  N.  side  is  very 
steep,  but  not  dangerous,  and 
the  path  is  well-marked.  From 
the   knoll   above   referred  to» 


152 


Eoiite  16. — XiJcko  and  Neifjhhourhood, 


the  main  path  skirts  the  E. 
base  of  Arayama,  and,  travers- 
ing a  grassy  moorland  basin, 
crosses  a  col  to  the  temple 
(Daido)  on  the  margin  of  the 
lake.  About  2,000  yds.  to  the 
r.  of  the  path  is  a  tarn,  called 
Koiinma,  the  level  of  which 
must  be  from  250  to  300  ft. 
higher  than  that  of  the  larger 
lake.] 
Maeba^lii,  see  p.  140. 


EOUTE  16. 

'     l^iKKo  AND  Neighbourhood. 

1.  GENERAL  INFORMATION.  2.  CHIEF 
OBJECTS  OF  INTEREST.  MAUSOLEA 
OP  lEYASU  AND  lEMITSU.  3.  OB- 
JECTS OF  MINOR  INTEREST.  4. 
"WALKS  IN  THE  NEIGHBOURHOOD. 
6.  KEGON-NO-TAKI,  CHUZENJI,.NAN- 
TAI-ZAN,  ^UMOTO.  6.  ASCENT  OF 
O-MANAGO  AND  NANTAI-ZAN  FROM 
YUMOTO. 

1. — General  Information. 

Properly  speaking,  Nikko  is  the 
name,  not  of  any  single  place,  but  of 
a  whole  mountainous  district  lying 
about  100  miles  to  the  N.  of  Tokyo. 
Nevertheless,  when  people  speak  of 
going  to  Nikko,  they  generally  mean 
going  to  the  village  of  Hachi-ishif 
close  to  which  are  the  celebrated 
Mausolea  of  loyasu  and  lemitsu, 
the  1st  and  3rd  Shoguns  of  the 
Tokugawa  dynasty.  Lying  2,000  ft. 
above  the  sea,  Nikko  is  a  delightful 
summer  resort,  for  which  reason 
many  foreign  residents  of  Tokyo 
have  villas  there,  or  else  at  Chuzenji 
(4,375  fb.)  7^  m.  further  on.  The 
only  drawback  to  the  climate  is 
the  frequent  rain.  There  is  probably 
no  other  place  in  Japan  which 
combines  in  so  eminent  a  degree 
the  beauties  of  art  and  the  beauties 


of  nature.  Within  a  radius  of  15- 
m.  there  are  no  less  than  twenty -five 
or  thirty  pretty  cascades.  Nikko 
is  noted,  among  other  things,  for 
the  glorious  tints  of  its  autximn 
foliage. 

Nikko  is  reached  in  5  hrs.  from 
Tokyo  by  the  Northern  Railway,. 
changing  carriages  at  Utsunonaiya^ 
where  the  Nikko  branch  diverges. 

Nikko  Branch  Line. 


o 


o 


Eh. 


65im. 

79J 
86f 

90f 


Names 

.of 
Stations. 


TOKYO  (Ueno). 

UTSUNOMIYA. 

Top^mi. 
Kanuma. 
Fub»<8a.mi, 
Imnichi. 

NIKKO     (Hachi. 
ishi). 


Remarks. 


See    Nortli- 
ern  Bail- 
way,  Route 
.24. 


For  a  considerable  distance,  the 
railway  runs  close  to  the  grand 
avenue  of  cryptomerias  lining  the 
ancient  highway.  As  the  traveller 
approaches  Imaichi,  he  will  notice 
on  the  1.  a  second  avenue  of  cryp- 
tomerias converging  towards  the  rail- 
way line.  Thisistho BeilieishiKaidd, 
so  called  because  in  old  days  the 
Reiheishij  or  Envoy  of  the  Mikado,, 
used  to  travel  along  it,  bearing  gifts 
from  his  Imperial  master  to  be 
offered  at  the  Mausoleum  of  leyasu. 

The  village  oUNikko  being  a  very 
long  one,  and  the  railway  only 
touching  its  lower  end,  there  re- 
mains a  stretch  of  about  2  m.  to 
be  done  by  jini^ikisha  from  the 
station  to  the  hotel. 

Hotels. — Nikko  Hotel  (foreign),  in 
Irimachi  beyond  the  village ;  Koni- 
shi-ya,  Aizu-ya,  in  the  vill.  A  second 
large  hotel  in  foreign  style  is  being 
built  near  the  upper  end  of  the 
village. 

Guides  are  in  attendance  at  the 
Hotels,  and  will  arrange  for  the  pur- 
chase of  tickets  of  admittance  to 
the    Mausolea.     Additional    small 


History. 


nz 


charges  are  made  at  various  points 
"Within  the  buildings. 
Means     of    conveyance. — Chairs, 
'  liagoSy  or  pack-horses  can  be  taken 

i'  to  such  places  as  are  not  accessible 
by   jinrikisha.      There    is   a    fixed 
,  scale  of  charges. 

Nikko  produces  skins,  and  various 
pretty   articles    made    of    a    black 
'iossil  wood  brought  from  Sendai  in 
fethe  north. 

:  History,  —  The  range  of  mountains 
Known  as  Nikko-zan  lies  on  the  N.W. 
■Ijoundary  of  the  province  of  Shimotsuke. 
JThe  orijfinal  name  was  Fiita-am-i/ama, 
firhich,  when  written  with  Cliinese  ideo- 

fraphs,  may  also  be  pronounced  Ni-k/j-zan. 
_  ccording  to  the   popular   account,  the 
ime  was  derived  from  periodical  hurri- 
ines  in  spring  and  autumn,  which  issued 
)m  a  great  cavern  on  Nantai-zan,  the 
mntain  to  the   N.  B.  of  ChUzenji.    In 
LD.  820  Kobo  Daishi  visited  the  spot, 
ide  a  road   to   the  neighbourhood  of 
cavern,  and   changed  the   name  of 
range  to  Nikko-zan,  or    'Mountains 
it  the    Sun's  Brightness,*    from   which 
noment  the  storms  ceased  to  devastate 
tie  country.    Up  to  the  end  of  the  17th 
fcntury,  a  family  of  Shinto  priests  named 
fno   used    to  visit    the    cavern     twice 

EiTly  to  perform  certain   exorcisms,  the 
ret  of   which  hadbeen    imparted  to 
ir  ancestor  by  Kobo  Daishi.   A  cavern 
Ituated  high  up  on  the  face  of  an  in- 
issible  cliff,  just  beyond  the  hamlet  of 
a-gaeshi  on  the  way  to  Chtlzenji,  is 
ited  out   as  the    cave   in   question, 
sther  explanation  of  the  name  Futa* 
yama,  is  that  it  means  *  The  Two 
"ing  Mountains,'    in  allusion  to   the 
volcanoes    which    form  part  of   it, 
.,   Nantai-zan    and    Shirane-san  he- 
ld Yumoto.     But  though    the   latter 
iks  out  at  frequent  intervals,  no  erup- 
ts nave  taken  place  from  Nantai-zan 
khin  memory  of  man. 
Vtom  the  earliest  ages  of  which  any 

Etworthy  record  remains,  a  Shinto 
pie  existed  at  Nikko,  ^vhich  was  af  ter- 
ia  removed  to  Utsunomiya.  In  the 
•it  767,  the  first  Buddhist  temple  was 
•cted  by  the  saint  Shodo  Shonin.  Later 
^  in  the  beginning  of  the  9th  century,  Ko- 
iDaishi,  and  in  the  middle  of  the  same 
ptary  the  abbot  Jigaku  Daishi,  added 
rjkhe  holy  places.  The  following  account 
■8bed5  Shonin  is  summarised  from  a 

eoir  written  by  his  disciples  the  year 
his  death.  He  was  born  at  Takaoka 
Wt  the  K.  boundary  of  Shiraoi.sUke, 
the  year  735.  His  parents  had  long 
Ited  to  have  a  son,  and  at  l'«st  their 
^  was  granted  by  the  Thousand- 
pded  Kwannon  of  the  Izuru  caves,  to 
lOm  they  had  prayed  for  offspring. 
tioaa  portents  accompanied  his  birth  : 


loud  thunder  was  heard,  a   miraculous 
cloud  hung  over  the  cottage,  flowers  fell 
from  heaven  into  the  courtyard,  and  a 
strange  perfume  filled  the  air.     From  hia 
earliest  years  the  saint  was  devoted  to 
the  worship  of  the  gods,  and  amused  him- 
self by  raising  toy  pagodas  and  shrines  of 
earth  and  stones,  which  gained  for  him 
the  nickname  of  *  temple  builder '  among- 
his  companions.  In  his  twentieth  year  ho 
secretly  quitted  his  father's  house,  and. 
took   up  his  abode   in  the   cave  of  the 
Thousand-Handed    Kwannon    at    Izuru. 
After  passing  three  years  in  prayer  and 
meditation,  he  dreamt  in  mid-winter  of  a, 
great  mountain  N.  of  Iziiru,  on  the  top  of 
which  lay  a  sword  more  than  3  ft.  in. 
length.    On  awaking,  he  left  the  cave, 
and  endeavoured  to  make  his  way  in  the 
direction  indicated  ;  but  the  deep  snow^ 
opposed  difficulties    almost   insurmount- 
able.   Vowing  to  sacrifice  his  life  rather 
than    abandon    the   enterprise,    he  per- 
severed, and  at  last  reached  a  point  fromt 
which  he  beheld  the  object  of  his  search. 
Ascending  to  the  top  of  the  mountain,  he 
gave  himself  up    to  austere    discipline, 
living  on  fruits  which  were  brought  to 
him  by  a  supernatural  being.    After  thus 
passing  three  more  years,  he  returned  ta 
Izuru,  and  in  763  visited  the  temple  of 
Yakushiji,  not  far  from  Ishibashi  on  the 
Osha  Kaido,  where  meeting  some  Chinese 
priests,  he  was  admitted  by  them  as  fv 
novice.    He  remained  in  the  monastery 
for    five    years,    and  then  returned    to 
the    mountain     now     called      Kobu-ga- 
hara.      From  its  summit  he  beheld,  on. 
the  range    to    the  N.,  four    miraculous 
clouds  of  different  colours  rising  straight 
up  into  the  sky,  and  he  at  once  set  off 
to  reach  them,    carrying  his  holy  books 
and  images  in  a   bundle  on   his   back. 
On  reaching  the  spot  whence  the  clouds 
had  seemed  to  ascend,  he  found  his  ad- 
vance barred  by  a  broad   river,    which 
poured  its  torrent  over  huge  rocks  and 
looked  utterly  impassable.    The  saint  fell 
upon  his. knees  and  prayed,  whereupon 
there  appeared  on  the  (^posite  bank  dr 
divine  Ijeing  of  colossal  size,  dressed  in 
blue  and  black  robes,  and  having  a  string 
of  skulls  hung  round  his  neck.    This  lieing- 
cried  out  that  he  would  help  him  to  pass 
the  stream,  as  he  had  once  helped  the 
Chinese  pilgrim  Hsiian  Chuans?  across  the 
River  of  Flowing  Sand.    With  this  pro- 
mise, he  flung  across  the  river  two  gi-een 
and  blue  snakes  which  he  held  in  his 
right  hand,  and  in  an  instant  a  long  bridge 
was  seen  to  span  the  waters,  like  a  rain- 
bow floating  among  the  hills;  but  when  the 
saint  crossed  it  and  reached  the  northern 
bank,  both  the  god  and  the  snake-bridge 
suddenly  vanished.  Having  thus  attained 
the  object  of     his   desires,    Sho.lo  Sho- 
nin built  himself  a  hut    wherein  to  prac- 
tise his  religious  exercises.    One  night  a. 
man  appeared  to  him  in  a  vision,  and  told 
him  that  the  hill  rising  to  the  north  was 
called  '  the  Mount  of  the  Four  Gods,'  and 


■ 


154 


Boute  16. — NiJcJcd  and  XeighbonrJiood, 


was  inhabited  by  the  Azure  Dragon,  the 
"Vermilion  Bird,  the  WTaite  Tigrer,  and  the 
Sombre  Warrior,  who  respectively  occupied 
its  K.,  S.,  W.  and  N.  peaks.  He  climbed 
the  hill,  and  found  that  he  had  anived  at 
the  goal  of  his  journey;  for  there  were 
the  four  clouds  which  he  had  originally 
set  out  to  seek,  rising  up-  around  him. 
He  proceeded  accordingly  to  build  a 
fihriue,  which  he  named  the  Monastery  of 
the  Four  Dragons  [Shi-hon-ryU-ji).  In 
the  year  767  he  resolved  to  ascend  the 
highest  peak  of  the  group,  and  after  duly 

Kreparing  himself  by  religious  exercises, 
e  set  out  upon  this  new  enteqirise.  After 
ascending  for  a  distance  of  over  40  ri 
(probably  the  ancient  ri,  of  which  4=1 
mile),  he  came  to  a  great  lake  {Chuzenji) 
on  the  flank  of  the  mountain  (Nanfai- 
xan);  but  in  spite  of  his  prayers  found  it 
impossible  to  proceed  any  further,  on 
account  of  the  deep  snow  and  the  ter- 
rific peals  of  thunder  which  roared 
about  the  mountain  top.  He  therefore 
retraced  his  steps  to  Nikko,  where 
l*e  spent  fourteen  years  in  fitting  him- 
self, by  the  repetition  of  countless 
prayers  and  the  performance  of  penances, 
for  the  task  which  he  was  unwilling  to 
abandon.  In  781  he  renewed  the  attempt 
■unauccessfully,  but  in  the  following  year 
lie  finally  reached  the  summit,  accom- 
panied by  some  of  his  disciples.  It 
seemed  to  him  a  region  such  as  gods  and 
other  supernatural  beings  would  naturally 
choose  for  their  residence,  and  he  there- 
fore erected  a  Buddhist  temple  called 
Chtlzenji,  in  which  he  placed  a  life-size 
image  of  the  Thousand-Handed  Kwan- 
non,  and  close  by  it  a  Shinto  temple  in 
honour  of  the  Gongen  of  Nikko.  He  also 
built  a  shrine  to  the  *  Great  King  of  the 
Deep  Sand"  {Jinja  Bai-o)  at  the  point 
-where  he  had  crossed  the  stream.  Shodo 
Shonin  died  in  817  in  the  odour  of 
sanctity.  Mangicanji  is  the  modem  name 
of  the  monastery  founded  by  him  at 
IJikko. 

In  A.D.  161R,  w^hen  Jigea  Daishi 
"was  abbot,  the  second  Shogun  of  the 
Tokugawa  dynasty,  acting  on  the  dying 
injunctions  of  his  father  leyasu,  sent  two 
liigh  officials  to  Nikko  to  choose  a  resting- 
place  for  his  father's  body,  which  had 
been  temporarily  interred  at  Kuno-zan,  a 
Tjeautiful  spot  near  Shizuoka  on  the  T6- 
]{aido.  They  selected  a  site  on  a  hill 
called  Hotoke-iwa,  and  the  mausoleum 
was  commenced  in  December  of  the  same 
year.  The  mortuary  chapel  and  some  of 
the  surrounding  edifices  were  completed 
in  the  spring  of  the  succeeding  year,  and 
on  the  20th  April  the  procession  bearing 
the  corpse  started  from  Kuno-zan,  reach- 
ing Nikko  on  the  8th  May.  The  coffin 
w^as  deposited  in  the  tomb,  with  im- 
pressive Buddhist  services  in  which 
tx>th  the  living  Shogun  and  an  envoy 
from  the  Mikado  took  part.  In  the  year 
1614  Jig^en  Daishi  died.  The  next  abbot 
was  a  court  noble,  the  next  to  him  was 


a  son  of  the  Emperor  Go-Mizuno-o,  since" 
whifeh  time  down  to  the  revolution  of  1 868 
the  abbot  of  Nikko  was  always  a  prince 
of  the  Imperial  blood.  Heiisually  resided 
in  Yedo,  and  visited  Nikko  three  times 
annually.  In  1808  the  prince-abbot  was- 
carried  off  to  the  north,  and  proclaimed 
Mikado  by  the  remnants  of  the  Tokugawa 
party.  After  the  capture  of  the  castle  of 
Wakamatsti  in  Aizu  in  November  of  the 
same  year,  he  surrendered  to  the  Imperial 
forces,  and,  having  been  subseqently  re- 
admitted to  Imperial  favour,  was  sent  to 
Germany  to  study.  His  present  title  is 
Prince  Kita  Shirakawa.— The  great  annual 
festival  is  held  on  the  1st  and  2nd  June. 

2. — Chief  Objects  op  Interest. 

On  issuing  from  the  upper  end  of 
the  village,  one  of  the  firsb  objects 
that  attract  attention  is  the  Mi 
Hashiy  a  Ked  Bridge  spanning  the 
Daiyagawa,  about  40  ft.  wide  between 
the  stone  walls  which  here  confine  its. 
course.  The  bridge  is  supported  on 
stone  piers  of  great  solidity,  fixed  into- 
the  rocks  between  which  the  stream 
flows,  and  its  colour  forms  a  striking 
contrast  to  the  deep  green  of  the 
cryptomerias  on  the  opposite  bank. 
It  was  formerly  closed  to  all  per- 
sons except  the  Shoguns,  save  twice 
a  year  when  it  was  opened  to  pil- 
grims. It  stands  on  the  spot  where,, 
according  to  the  legend  above  related,. 
Shodo  Shonin  crossed  the  river. 
The  present  structure,  which  is  84  ft. 
long  and  18  ft.  wide,  was  built  in 
1638,  and  is  said  not  to  have  re- 
quired any  repairs  of  importance 
since  that  time.  At  each  end  there 
are  gates  which  are  kept  constantly 
closed.  Forty  yards  or  so  lower 
down  the  stream,  is  the  so-called 
*  temporary  bridge,'  which  is  open 
to  ordinary  mortals.  Crossing  this 
and  turning  to  the  1.,  the  visitor 
ascends  the  Nagasaka  through  a 
grove  of  cryptomerias,  and  reaches 

Mangivanji,  a  monastery  occupy- 
ing the  site  of  the  former  Hmnhdy  or 
Abbot's  residence,  a  magnificent 
building  destroyed  by  fire  in  1871. 
On  the  r.  is  a  monastery  called  Jodo- 
in.  The  road  to  be  followed  passes 
along  the  S.  wall  of  the  Mangwan- 
ji  enclosure,  and  up  its  W.  side. 
In  the  N.  part  of  this  enclosure 


Mansolewn  of  ley  am* 


155 


stands  the  Sambutsu-dd,  or  Hall 
of  the  Three  Buddhas,  viz.,  the 
Thousand-Handed  Kwannon,  the 
Horse-Headed  Kwannon,  and  Amida 
Nyorai ;  with  them  is  a  wooden 
statue  of  Shodo  Shonin.  Close  by 
is  a  pillar  called  the  Sdrintdt 
erected  in  1643,  and  consisting  of  a 
cylindrical  copper  column  42  ft. 
high,  of  a  black  colour,  supported 
by  horizontal  bars  crossing  through 
its  centre,  which  rest  on  shorter 
columns  of  the  same  material.  The 
top  is  adorned  with  a  series  of  six 
cups  shaped  like  lotus-flowers,  from 
the  petals  of  which  depend  small 
bells.  Just  beneath  the  lowest  of 
these  cups  are  four  small  medal- 
lions, with  the  Tokugawa  crest  of 
three  Asarum  leaves. 

Mansolenm  of  leyasii.  As- 
cending some  brpad  steps  be- 
tween two  rows  of  cryptomerias,  we 
come  to  the  granite  torii  presented 
by  the  prince  of  Chikuzen  from  his 
own  quarries  in  the  year  1618.  Its 
total  height  is  27  ft.  6  in.,  and  the 
diameter  of  the  columns  is  3  ft.  6 
in.  The  inscription  on  the  columns 
merely  records  the  fact  of  their 
presentation  and  the  name  of  the 
donor.  On  the  1.  is  a  five-storied 
pagoda  of  graceful  form,  painted  in 
harmonious  colours.  It  rises  to  a 
height  of  104  ft.,  and  the  roofs 
measure  18  ft.  on  each  side.  This 
monument  was  the  offering  in  1650 
of  Sakai  Wakasa-no-Kami,  one  of 
the  chief  supporters  of  the  Toku- 
gawa family.  Bound  the  lower 
storey  are  life-like  painted  carvings 
of  the  twelve  signs  of  the  zodiac. 
From  the  toriif  a  pavement  leads  to 
the  bottom  of  the  steps  crowned  by 
the  Ni-o-maii,  or  Gate  of  the  Two 
Kings.  The  two  gigantic  figures  of 
these  gods,  which  formerly  occupied 
the  niches  on  the  outside  of  this 
gate,  have  been  removed,  and  their 
places  taken  by  gilt  Ama-imi  and 
Koma-inu.  The  carvings  adorning 
this  gateway  are  extremely  varied. 
On  the  tops  of  the  pillars  at  the  four 
external  angles  are  tapirs,representa- 
tions  of  which  are  in  China  supposed  1 


to  act  as  charms  against  pestilence. 
The  heads  on  the  central  pillars  of 
the  two  outer  ends  of  the  structure 
are  lions ;  in  the  niches  r.  and  1.  of 
the  lion  at  one  end  are  unicorns, 
and  in  the  corresponding  niches  at 
the  other  end  are  fabulous  beasts 
called  takicju,  which  are  supposed 
to  be  endowed  with  the  power  of 
speech,  and  only  to  appear  in  the 
world  when  a  virtuous  sovereign  oc- 
cupies the  throne.  The  doorways 
are  ornamented  with  elephants* 
heads,  the  first  portico  has  lions 
and  peonies,  and  the  second  tigers. 
The  interiors  of  the  niches  on  the 
outside  of  the  gateway  are  de- 
corated with  tapirs  and  peonies, 
those  on  the  inside  niches  with 
bamboos.  The  carvings  of  tigers 
under  the  eaves  on  the  interior  side 
of  the  gateway  are  excellent. 

Passing  through  the  gateway,  the 
visitor  finds  himself  in  a  courtyard 
raised  high  above  the  approach,  and 
enclosed  by  a  timber  walLpainted 
bright  red.  The  three  handsome 
buildings  arranged  in  a  zigzag  are 
storehouses,  in  which  various  uten- 
sils employed  in  the  religious  ceremo- 
nies performed  in  honour  of  leyasu, 
pictures,  furniture,  and  other  articles 
used  by  him  during  his  life-time, 
and  many  other  treasures  belonging 
to  the  temple,  are  deposited.  The 
third  is  remarkable  for  two  curious 
painted  carvings  of  elephants  in 
relief  in  the  gable  of  the  nearest 
end,  which  are  ascribed  to  Hidari 
Jingoro,  the  drawings  having  been 
made  by  the  celebrated  artist  Tan- 
yii.  It  will  be  noticed  that  the 
joints  of  the  hind-legs  are  repre- 
sented bent  in  the  wrong  direction. 
On  the  1.  of  the  gate  stands  a 
conifer  of  the  species  called  kdya- 
maki,  surrounded  by  a  stone  railing. 
Some  say  that  this  is  the  iden- 
tical tree  which  leyasu  was  in 
the  habit  of  carrying  about  with 
him  in  his  palanquin,  when  it  was 
still  small  enough  to  be  contained  in 
a  flower-pot.  Close  to  this  tree  is  a 
stable  for  the  sacred  white  pony 
kept    for    the    use    of     the    god. 


156 


Route  16, — NikJco  and  Xelghbourliood, 


Over  the  doors  are  some  cleverly 
executed  groups  of  monkeys,  seve- 
rally represented  as  closing  their 
ears  and  mouth  and  shading  their 
eyes  with  their  hands.  They  are 
called  san-goku  no  sarUj  *  the  mon- 
keys of  the  three  countries,'  viz. 
India,  China,  and  Japan. 

A  very  interesting  object  is  the 
On  Choztiya^  containg  a  holy- 
water  cistern  made  of  a  solid  piece 
of  granite,  and  protected  by  a  roof 
supported  on  twelve  square  pillars 
of  the  same  stone.  It  was  erected 
in  1618.  The  pediment  of  the  roof 
contains  a  pair  of  winged  dra- 
gons, carved  in  wood  and  painted. 
The  beautifully  decorated  build- 
ing beyond  the  holy-water  basin  is 
called  the  Kyozoj  and  is  the  depo- 
sitory of  a  complete  collection  of 
the  Buddhist  scriptures,  contained 
in  a  fine  revolving  octagonal  book- 
case with  red  lacquer  panels 
and  gilt  pillars.  In  front  stand 
figures  of  Fu  Daishi  and  his 
sons.  Paintings  of  angels  on  a 
gilt  ground  occupy  the  clerestory  of 
the  interior.  In  the  ^centre  of  the 
court  stands  a  fine  bronze  torii,  with 
the  Tokugawa  crest  in  gold  on  the 
tops  of  the  pillars  and  on  the  tie- 
beam. 

A  flight  of  steps  gives  access  to 
another  court,  along  the  front  of 
which  runs  a  stone  balustrade. 
Just  inside  are  two  stone  lions  in 
the  act  of  leaping  down,  presented 
by  lemitsu.  On  the  r.  stand  a  bell- 
tower,  a  bronze  candelabrum  pre- 
sented by  the  King  of  Loochoo, 
and  a  bell  given  by  the  King  of 
Korea,  called  the '  Moth-eaten  Bell,' 
because  of  there  being  a  hole  in  the 
top  just  under  the  ring  by  which  it 
is  suspended.  On  the  1.  stand  a 
bronze  lantern  from  Korea,  a  can- 
delabrum from  Holland,  a  drum- 
tower,  no  unworthy  companion  to 
the  bell-tower  opposite,  and  behind 
these  again  a  temple  originally 
dedicated  to  the  Buddhist  god  Yaku- 
shi  Nyorai.  (Be  it  remarked  that 
Holland,  Korea,  and  Loochoo  were 
considered    to    be     Japan's    three 


vassal  States.)  The  groups  of 
carved  birds  adorning  the  temple 
of  Yakushi  are  excellently  done. 
The  lantern  is  a  fine  and  solid 
piece  of  workmanship;  but  its 
style  and  construction  indicate 
that  it  does  not  owe  its  origin 
to  Korea.  The  two  candelabra 
and  the  lantern,  as  well  as  the 
bronze  candle-brackets  fixed  upon 
the  interior  wall  of  the  court,  r.  and 
1.  of  the  steps,  probably  came  from 
Europe  through  Dutch  or  Portu- 
guese traders.  Two  iron  standard 
lanterns  on  the  r.  of  the  steps,  pre- 
sented by  Date  Masamune,  Prince 
of  Sendai,  and  the  same  number  ou 
the  1.  given  by  the  prince  of  Satsu- 
ma,  merit  attention.  They  are 
dated  1641.  The  total  number  of 
lanterns  contributed  by  various  Dai- 
myos  is  one  hundred  and  eighteen. 

We  next  ascend  a  flight  of  steps 
to  the  platform  on  which  stands  the 
exquisitel}'^  beautiful  gate  called  Fo- 
inei-mcni.  The  columns  supporting  it 
are  carved  with  a  minute  geometri- 
cal pattern,  and  painted  white.  The 
pillar  next  beyond  has  the  pattern 
carved  upside  down,  which  was 
done  purposely,  lest  the  flawless 
perfection  of  the  whole  structure 
should  bring  misfortune  on  the 
House  of  Tokugawa  by  exciting  the 
jealousy  of  Heaven.  It  is  called  the 
Ma-yoke  no  Hashira,  or  Evil- A  vert- 
ing Pillar.  The  side  niches  are  lined 
with  a  pattern  of  graceful  arabesques 
founded  upon  the  peony;  those  on 
the  outside  contain  the  images  called 
Sadaijin  and  Udaijin,  armed  with 
bows  and  carrying  quivers  full  of 
arrows  at  their  backs ;  the  inner 
niches  have  Ama-inu  and  Koma- 
inu.  The  capitals  of  the  columns 
are  formed  of  unicorns'  heads. 
The  architrave  of  the  second  storey 
is  adorned  with  white  dragons* 
heads  where  the  cross-beams  inter- 
sect, and  in  the  centre  of  each  side 
and  end  is  a  magnificently  involved 
dragon  with  golden  claws.  Above 
the  architrave  of  the  lower  storey, 
projects  a  balcony  which  runs  all 
round  the  building.    The  railing  is 


Mausoleum  of  leyatu. 


157 


formed  of  children  at  play  and 
other  subjects.  Below  again  are 
groups  of  Chinese  sages  and  im- 
mortals. The  roof  is  supported 
by  gilt  dragons'  heads  with  gaping 
crimson  throats,  and  from  the  top 
a  demon  looks  down.  The  Indian- 
ink  drawings  of  dragons  on  the 
ceilings  of  the  two  porticos  are  by 
Kano  Motonobu.  R.  and  1.  extends 
a  long  cloister,  the  outer  walls  of 
which  are  decorated  with  carvings 
of  trees,  birds,  and  flowers,  coloured 
&fter  nature,  fifteen  compartments 
on  the  r.  and  eight  on  the  1. 

Passing  through  the  gate,  we 
«nter  a  second  court,  enclosed  on 
three  sides  by  the  above-mentioned 
cloister.  In  this  the  Buddhist 
priests  used  to  repeat  'their  prayers 
«,t  the  two  great  annual  festivals. 
On  the  fourth  side,  is  a  high  stone 
wall  built  against  the  face  of  the 
hill.  Of  the  two  buildings  on  the 
T.,  one  contains  a  stage  for  the  per- 
formance of  the  sacred  kagura 
•dances,  and  in  the  other,  called 
Gotna-ddy  was  an  altar  for  burning 
the  fragrant  cedar  while  prayers 
were  recited.  On  the  1.  is  a  build- 
ing containing  the  cars  carried  in 
procession  on  the  1st  June,  when 
the  deified  spirits  of  leyasu,  Hide- 
yoshi,  and  Yoritomo  are  supposed 
to  occupy  them.  In  the  midst 
stands  the  enclosure  surrounded  by 
the  tamagaJcij  or  fence,  containing 
the  haidefif  or  oratory  and  the  hon- 
den,  or  chapel.  The  tainagaki  forms 
a  quadrangle  each  side  of  which  is 
50  yds.  long,  and  is  constructed 
of  gilt  trellis  with  borders  of 
coloured  geometrical  decorations. 
Above  and  beneath  these  again  are 
carvings  of  birds  in  groups,  about  8 
in.  high  and  6  ft.  long,  with  back- 
grounds of  grass,  carved  in  relief 
and  gilt.  The  gate,  called  kara- 
ntOTij  through  which  this  enclosure 
is  entered,  is  composed  of  Chinese 
woods  inlaid  with  great  skill.  The 
folding-doors  of  the  oratory  are 
lavishly  decorated  with  arabesques 
•of  peonies  in  gilt  relief.  Over  the 
4oor   and  windows   of   the   front. 


are  nine  compartments  filled  with, 
birds  carved  in  relief,  four  on  each 
side  of  the  building ;  and  there  are 
four  more  at  the  back  on  each  side 
of  the  corridor  leading  to  the  chapel. 
The  interior  is  a  large  matted  room, 
42  ft.  long  by  27  ft.  deep,  with  an  ante- 
chamber at  each  end.  That  on  the 
r.,  which  w^as  intended  for  the  Sho- 
gun,  contains  pictures  of  unicorns 
on  a  gold  ground,  and  four  carved 
oak  panels  of  phoenixes  which  at 
first  sight  seem  to  be  in  low  relief ; 
but  closer  examination  shows  that 
the  figures  are  formed  of  various 
woods  glued  on  to  the  surface  of  the 
panel.  The  rear  compartment  of 
the  ceiling  is  of  carved  wood,  with 
the  Tokugawa  crest  in  the  centre  sur- 
rounded by  phoenixes  and  crysan- 
themums.  The  opposite  ante-cham- 
ber has  the  same  number  of  panels, 
the  subjects  of  which  are  eagles  very 
spiritedly  executed,  and  a  carved 
and  painted  ceiling  with  an  angel 
surrounded  by  chrysanthemums. 
The  gold  paper  gohei  at  the  back 
of  the  oratory,  and  a  circular 
mirror  are  the  only  ornaments 
left,  the  Buddhist  paraphernalia  of 
bells,  gongs,  prayer-books,  and  so 
forth,  having  been  removed  when. 
the  Shinto  form  of  worship  was 
introduced.  Two  wide  steps  at 
the  back  lead  down  into  the  Stone 
Chamber,  so  called  because  paved 
with  stone  under  the  matted  wooden 
floor.  The  ceiling  consists  of 
square  panels,  with  gold  dragons  on. 
a  blue  ground.  Beyond  are  the  gilt 
doors  of  the  chapel,  which  is  divided 
into  four  apartments  not  accessible 
to  visitors.  The  first,  called  the 
HeideUy  where  the  offerings  are  pre- 
sented, is  a  beautifully  decorated 
chamber  having  a  coffered  ceiling 
with  phoenixes  diversely  designed, 
and  carved  beams  and  pillars  of 
plain  wood.  In  it  stand  gilt  and 
silken  gohei  presented  by  H.I.M. 
the  Emperor. 

To  reach  the  Tortiby  we  issue 
again  from  the  Kara-mon,  and 
pass  between  the  Gcnna-db  and 
Kagura-do   to    a    door   in  the  E» 


158 


Boute  16, — Nikko  and  NeighbourJiood. 


side  of  the  gallery.  Over  this  door 
is  a  carving  called  the  nemuri  no 
nekoy  or  *  sleeping  cat,'  one  of  Hidari 
Jingoro's  most  famous  works.  From 
this  a  moss-grown  stone  gallery  and 
several  steep  flights,  of  about  two 
hundred  steps  altogether,  lead  to 
the  tomb  on  the  hill  behind.  After 
passing  through  the  torii  at  the  top 
of  the  last  flight,  we  reach  another 
oratory  used  only  when  that  below 
is  undergoing  repairs.  The  tomb, 
shaped  like  a  small  pagoda,  is  a 
single  bronze  casting  of  a  light 
colour,  produced,  it  is  said,  by  the 
admixture  of  gold.  In  front  stands 
a  low  stone  table,  bearing  an  im- 
mense bronze  stork  with  a  brass 
candle  in  its  mouth,  an  incense- 
l)urner  of  bronze,  and  a  vase  with 
artificial  lotus-flowers  and  leaves  in 
brass.  The  whole  is  surrounded  by 
a  stone  Wall  surmounted  by  a  balus- 
trade, the  entrance  being  through  a 
bronze  gate  not  open  to  the  public, 
the  roof  of  which,  as  well  as  the  gate 
itself,  is  a  solid  casting.  Before  it 
sit  bronze  Koma-inu  and  Ama-inu. 

On  leaving  the  Mausoleum  of 
leyasu,  the  guide  will  turn  to  the  r. 
at  the  bottom  of  the  steps,  and  pass 
along  the  avenue  under  the  wall  to 
the  open  space  through  the  toriiy 
Tvhere  stands  r.  the  Shinto  temple 
of  FtUa-ara  no  Jinja,  dedicated  to 
the  god  Onamuji. 

When  Shodo  Shoninin  A.D.  782  reached 
the  top  of  Nantai-zan,  the  tutelary- 
deities  of  the  region  appeared  to  him,  and. 
promised  to  watch  over  the  welfare  of 
human  beings  and  the  progress  of 
Buddhism,  These  were  the  god  Onamuji, 
the  goddess  Tagori-hime  his  wife,  and 
their  son  Ajisuki-taka-hikone.  Japan  is 
believed  to  have  been  saved  on  many- 
occasions  from  the  perils  of  civil  war  and 
invasion  by  the  intervention  of  these 
divine  beings,  who  are  styled  the  Three 
Original  Gongen  of  Nikko;  and  local  tradi- 
tion says  that  it  was  owing  to  the  efficacy 
of  the  prayers  here  offered,  that  the 
Mongol  invaders  in  the  second  half  of  the 
13th  century  were  repulsed  with  such 
terrible  loss. 

In  one  comer  of  the  chapel  en- 
closure stands  a  bronze  lantern 
called  the  Bakemono  Tdrd,  presented 
in  1292,  which  is  said  to  have  for- 


merly had  the  power  of  taking  the> 
form  of  a  demon,  and  annoying  tha 
inhabitants  of  the  locality  on  dark 
nights,  until  a  courageous  man 
attacked  it,  and  with  his  sword  gav^ 
it  a  wound  which  is  still  visible  oa 
the  cap. 

Turning  to  the  1.  and  descending, 
we  perceive  two  red  lacquered 
buildings,  standing,  together  and 
connected  by  a  covered  gallery. 
The  former  is  dedicated  to  Kishl 
Bojin  and  Fugen  Bosatsu,  the 
latter  to  Amida.  Here  are  pre- 
served the  bones  of  Yoritomo,  which 
were  discovered  near  the  site  of  the 
Ni-o-mon  gate  of  leyasu's  mauso- 
leum about  the  year  1617.  Bound 
the  sides  of  the  interior  are  ranged 
a  number  of  Buddhist  images. 

Mansolenm  of  leiiiitsn.    Turp^ 
ing  to  the  r.  before  reaching  the 
red-lacquered  buildings  just  men- 
tioned, we  approach  the  gate  of  the 
mausoleum  of  lemitsu.    This  is  a 
Ni-o-mon,  the  side  niches  of  which 
are  occupied  by  a  gigantic  pair  of 
wooden    figures.      In    the    niches 
on  the  inner  side  of  the  gateway, 
stand  the  Ni-6  which  once  adorned 
the  gate  of   leyasu' s    mausoleum. 
Under  a  beautiful  shed  r.  on  enter- 
ing   the    court,   stands   a  massive 
stone  water-basin.    A  flight  of  steps 
leads  to  the  gate  called  Niten-mo7i, 
The  niches  on  the  side  contain ,  a 
red  statue  of  Bishamon  on  the  1., 
and  on  the  r.  a  green  one  of  Ida-Ten 
(Sanskrit,  VSda  Baja)^  a  mytholo- 
gical protector  of  Buddhism.     The 
niches  on  the  inside  are  occupied 
by  the  Gods  of  Wind  and  Thunder. 
Three  more  flights  conduct  us  to  the 
YasJia-mmif  or  Demon  Gate,  whose  , 
niches    contain    the     Shi    Tennd.  ' 
Turning  round  just  inside  the  gate, 
we  have  before  us  an  exquisite  view 
of  foliage.    Directly  opposite  is  the 
Hotoke-iwaj  completely  clad  up  to 
the   summit  with  trees  of  various 
tints.      Of  the  mausoleum    which 
stands  on  it,  only  a  narrow  piece  can 
be    seen    between    the    avenue    of 
cryptomerias  lining  the  last  flight 
of  steps  ascended.    This  vignette  is 


Mausoleum  of  lemitsii. 


15^ 


the  gem  of  Nikko.  The  oratory  and 
chapel  are  less  magnificent  than 
those  of  leyasu.  The  former  is 
crowded  with  the  insignia  of  Bud- 
dhism. Two  largo  horn  lanterns 
pointed  out  as  Korean  are  evidently 
Dutch.  The  tomb  is  reached  by 
flights  of  steps  up  the  side  bf  the 
hill  on  the  r.  of  the  chapel.  It  is 
of  bronze,  and  in  the  same  style  as 
that  of  leyasu,  but  of  a  darker  hue. 
The  gates  in  front  are  of  bronze, 
and  are  covered  with  large  Sanskrit 
characters  in  shining  brass. 

After  descending  a  flight  of  steps, 
and  passing  under  the  gallery  con- 
necting the  the  temples  of  Kishi  Bo- 
jin  and  Amida,  we  come  to  the 
resting-place  of  Jigen  Daishi,  other- 
wise called  Tenkai  Daisojo,  arch- 
bishop of  Isikko  at  the  time  of  le- 
yasu's  interment.  The  chapel  con- 
tains some  interesting  paintings, 
and  is  finely  decorated  on  the 
outside.  Two  white  phoenixes 
above  the  entrance  are  particularly 
worthy  of  notice.  The  tomb 
behind  is  constructed  of  stone, 
and  consists  of  a  cube  on  which 
rests  a  globe  surmounted  by  a 
pyramidal  top,  with  the  comers 
turned  up,  standing  altogether 
about  12  ft.  high.  Six  stone  effigies 
of  Buddhist  gods  life-size  stai\d  in 
rows,  three  on  either  side.  Before 
quitting  this  spot,  it  is  worth  while 
ascending  a  fews  steps  on  the  1., 
which  lead  to  the  tombs  of  the 
prince-abbots.  They  are  thirteen 
in  number,  arranged  round  three 
sides  of  a  square,  and  their 
mean  appearance  contrasts  curiously 
with  the  splendour  of  the  tombs  of 
leyasu  and  lemitsu.  In  no  gor- 
geous chapel  are  litanies  chanted 
to  their  memory;  all  we  see  is  a 
rough  shed  supported  on  four  wooden 
posts. 

"  No  visitor  should  fail  to  see  a  cer- 
tain chamber  at  Nikko  if  he  desires 
to  carry  away  a  clear  idea  of  the 
magnificent  care  lavished  by  the 
men  of  old  on  the  mausolea  of  their 
ancestors.  It  is  a  chamber  in  the 
iron    store-room   attached   to    the 


Tama-ya  of  the  third  Shogun,  le- 
mitsu, and  on  its  walls  are  hung 
about  twenty  of  the  finest  examj)les 
of  decorative  painting  that  could  be 
achieved  by  the  Japanese  artists  of 
the  seventeenth  century,  working 
without  the  smallest  concern  for 
time  and  expense.  The  subjects 
depicted  are  all  Buddhistic.  Gold 
is  profusely  used,  and  used  with  a 
firmness,  directness  and  fineness  of 
stroke  that  are  absolutely  mar- 
vellous. The  colours  are  wonder- 
fully rich  and  mellow ;  indeed,  the 
best  of  the  pictures  seem  to  radiate 
a  perfect  glow  of  brilliancy,  without,^ 
however,  the  slightest  approach  to* 
garishness  or  obtrusiveness.  The 
original  silk  on  which  the  picture  is 
painted  is  not  suffered  to  appear  at 
all,  being  completely  covered  with 
microscopic  illumination,  or  beauti- 
fully designed  brocades  in  glorious 
colours.  The  borders,  which  in  or- 
dinary pictures  cofisist  of  rich  fabrics, 
are  here  replaced  by  hand-painting 
inconceivably  accurate  and  minute. 
The  artist,  in  fact,  took  a  single  piece 
of  seamless  silk,  specially  -  woven 
for  the  purpose,  perhaps  8  feet  long 
and  4  wide,  and  covered  the  entire 
surface  with  illuminated  painting,, 
fi'om  the  elaborate  border  of  scrolls 
and  diapers  to  the  central  deity 
clothed  in  raiment  of  gold  cloth,, 
every  line  and  mesh  of  which  is 
faithfully  reproduced.  To  attempt 
to  describe  such  works  verbally  is 
entirely  futile.  In  the  same  store- 
room are  many  other  objects  of 
beauty  and  interest ;  for  example,  a 
number  of  illuminated  scrolls  en- 
closed in  a  lacquer  case  that  is 
itself  a  marvel ;  some  boxes  of  the 
most  exquisite  filigree  metal-work ; 
the  norimono  in  which  the  mortuary 
tablet  of  lemitsu  was  carried  to- 
the  shrine;  and  so  forth.  The 
conclusion  at  which  every  one 
visiting  this  store-room  must  inevi- 
tably arrive  is  that  few  of  the  much- 
vaunted  illuminated  missals  of 
mediaeval  Europe  will  endure  com- 
parison for  a  moment  with  the 
similar  work  of   contemporaneous 


160 


Route  16. — Xikho  and  Neighbourhood, 


Japanese  artists.  Special  steps 
must  be  taken  to  gain  access  to  the 
store-room  where    these»  treasures 

Are  preserved The  best 

way  to  procure  admission  to  all  the 
•objects  of  interest  is  to  become  a 
member  of  the  Hoko-kwai,  or  Nikko 
Preservation  Society,  by  payment 
•of  a  subscription  of  $5." — Japan 
Mail. 

-3. — Objects  op  Minor  Interest. 

Besides  the  mausolea  of  the 
Sh5guns,  there  are  various  objects 
At  Nikko  having  a  lesser  degree 
of  interest.  All  are  within  a 
short  distance  of  the  great  temples. 
One  of  these  is  the  Hmigu,  a  tem- 
ple dedicated  to  the  Shinto  god  Aji- 
suki-taka-hikone,.  whose  name  im- 
plies that  he  was  mighty  with  the 
spade.  This  temple  was  built  by  Sho- 
do  Shonin  in  A.D.  808,  close  to  the 
Buddhist  monastery  which  he  had 
founded.  It  is  reached  by  ascending 
the  stone  steps  that  face  the  end 
•of  the  bridge,  and  then  turning  to 
the  right.  Near  the  Hongu  stands 
the  San^io-iniya,  a  small  red  chapel 
«urrounded  by  a  stone  balustrade. 
It  is  believed  that  women  may 
obtain  safe  delivery  by  here  offering 
up  pieces  of  wood,  such  as  are  used 
in  the  Japanese  game  of  chess,  and 
correspond  to  our  rook.  Close 
hj  is  the  Kaisan-ddy  a  red  lac- 
quered building  36  ft.  square,  dedi- 
cated to  Shodo  Shonin,  the  'pioneer 
of  the  mountain,*  as  the  name 
implies.  Peeping  through  the  grat- 
ing which  forms  the  window  on  the 
E.  side,  we  see  an  image  of  Jizo 
occupying  a  lofty  position,  with 
the  eflSgy  of  the  saint  below,  and 
those  of  ton  disciples  ranged  r.  and 
1.  Behind  are  the  tombs  of  the  saint 
4ind  three  of  his  disciples.  At  the 
base  of  the  rugged  and  precipitous 
rock  at  the  back  of  the  Kaisan-dO  are 
some  rough  Buddhist  images,  from 
which  the  hill  takes  its  name  of  Hoto- 
ke-iwa.  Further  on  we  pass  a  small 
shrine  dedicated  to  Tenjin.  A  large 
stone  close  to  the  path  on  the  r., 
just  beyond  this,  is  called  the  Te- 


kakc-ishiy  or  Hand-touched  Stone, 
said  to  have  been  sanctified  by 
the  imposition  of  Kobo  Daishi's 
hands.  Fragments  of  it  are  valued 
as  a  protection  against  noxious  in- 
fluences. Opposite  stand  a  row  of 
stone  images  of  Emma-0,  the  Begent 
of  Hell.  Further  on  is  a  stone 
bearing  a  half-effaced  inscription, 
erected  over  the  spot  where  lies  the 
horse  which  carried  leyasu  at  the 
decisive  battle  of  Seki-ga-hara,  in 
the  year  IGOO.  After  the  death  of 
the  master  whom  he  had  borne  to 
victory,  the  horse  was  set  free  in 
the  mountains  of  Nikko,  and  died 
in  1630.  The  next  object  to  bo 
noticed  is  an  immense  cryptomeria, 
7  ft.  in  diameter  a  little  above  the 
base,  called  the  li-viori  no  sngi,  from 
the  supposed  resemblance  to  a  heap 
of  boiled  rice  which  its  pendent 
branches  present.  The  tree  is  said 
to  have  been  planted  by  a  deputa- 
tion representing  800  Buddhist  nuns 
of  the  province  of  Wakasa.  Close 
to  the  path  on  the  1.,  as  we  turn  a 
corner,  is  the  Somen  tw  takiy  or 
Vermicelli  Cascade,  so  called  from 
a  fancied  likeness  to  a  bowl  of 
that  food.  Another  and  prettier 
name  given  to  it  is  Shira-ito,  *  White 
Thread.* 

4. — Walks  in  the  Neighboubhood. 

1.  Kwannon-yniim  is  the  name 
of  the  bluff  behind  the  upper  end 
of  the  village.  A  fine  view  of  the 
river  and  surrounding  country  ia 
obtained  from  the  tea-sheds  over- 
looking the  street. 

2.  Kainnian-ga-fnc1ii.  About  20 
min.  walk  from  the  bridge,  along 
the  course  of  the  Daiyagawa,  is  a 
deep  pool  called  Kamman-ga-fuchi. 
A  liut  has  been  erected  here  close 
to  the  boiling  eddies,  opposite  to  a 
precipitous  rock  on  which  is  en- 
graved the  Sanskrit  word  Hdnwmm, 
It  seems  impossible  that  any  one 
should  have  been  able  to  get  across 
to  perform  the  work,  and  so  it  ig 
ascribed  to  Kobo  Daishi,  who  ac- 
complished the  feat  by  •  throwing 


Kamnian-ga-fucJii,  *  Waterfalls, 


161 


his  pen  at  the  rock.  But  there  is 
authority  for  attributiug  it  to  a 
disciple  of  Jigen  Daishi,  only  two 
centuries  ago.  On  the  bank  of  the 
river  stand  a  large  number  of  images 
of  Amida  ranged  in  a  long  row.  It 
is  believed  that  they  always  count 
up  differently  however  often  the 
attempt  be  made, — a  belief  bearing 
a  curious  resemblance  to  the  super- 
stition which  prevailed  regarding 
the  Druidical  stones  in  various 
parts  of  England.  It  was  supposed 
that  no  two  persons  could  number 
the  stones  alike,  and  that  nobody 
could  ever  find  a  second  counting 
confirm  the  first.  The  largest  of 
these  images  was  some  years  ago 
washed  down  the  river  by  a  flood 
as  far  as  Imaichi,  arriving  there  in 
perfect  safety.  It  now  stands  at  the 
E.  end  of  that  town,  wit<h  its  face 
towards  Nikko. 

3.  Hontd  Somen-ga-taki,  or  the 
Real  Vermicelli  Cascade,  so  called 
to  distinguish  it  from  the  one  men- 
tioned on  p.  160,  is  about  ^  hr.  walk 
up  the  vaUey  nearest  to  Kamman- 
ga-fuchi.  It  consists  of  a"  series  of 
three  cascades,  not  large,  but  very 
pretty  after  rain.  As  we  approach 
the  first  fall  on  going  up  the  valley, 
a  small  trickle  of  water  coming  over 
the  face  of  the  hill  is  perceived  on 
the  1.  This  streamlet  often  becomes 
a  clear  fall  of  about  40  ft. 

4.  Dainichi-do,  just  beyond  Kam- 
man-ga-fuchi  .on  the  opposite  side 
of  the  river,  merits  a  visit  for  the 
sake  of  its  prettily  arranged  garden. 
The  water  rising  from  a  spring 
in  one  of  the  artificial  ponds  is 
deliciously  cool,  and  is  considered 
the  purest  in  the  neighbourhood  of 
Kikko. 

6.  Toyania.  The  nearest  emi- 
nence from  which  an  extensive 
view  of  the  plain  can  be  obtained  is 
Toyama,  a  hill  rising  up  somewhat 
in  the  form  of  a  huge  animal  cou- 
chant  on  the  1.  bank  of  the  Inari- 
kawa,  which  flows  down  by  the 
nde  of  the  temples.  From  the 
bridge  to  the  top  isf  hr.  climb.  The 


last  bit  of  the  ascent  is  steep,  but- 
the  view  is  a  sufficient  reward. 
The  large  mountain  on  the  extreme^ 
1.  is  Keicho-zan,  also  called  Taka- 
hara-yama.  Right  opposite  is  the 
long  ridge  of  Haguro-yama.  Tsuku- 
ba's  double  peak  is  unmistakable^ 
Turning  round  we  see  the  whole  of 
the  magnificent  range  formed  by 
Nantai-zan,  0-Manago,  Ko-Manago^ 
Nyoho-zan,  and  Akanagi. 

6.  Kirifuri-iio-taki  or  the  Mist- 
Falling  Cascade.  By  taking  a  wide- 
sweep  round  the  base  of  Toyama  and 
over  undulating  country  to  the  S., 
this  cascade  may  be  reached  in  1 J 
hr.  A  tea-house  on  the  hill  above 
commands  a  picturesque  view  of 
the  fall,  and  from  the  top  of  a  knoll 
just  beyond  the  tea-house,  a  grand 
view  is  obtained  of  the  country 
towards  the  E.,  S.,  and  W.  A 
steep  and  very  rough  path  leads - 
down  to  the  foot,  where  the  fall  is 
seen  to  better  advantage.  The  rare 
fern  Aspidium  triptcron  grows  by 
the  way-side;  it  is  also  found  at 
the  foot  of  the  E.  side  of  the 
Hotoke-iwa. 

7.  Makiira-no-taI:i,  or  the  Pillow 
Cascade.  On  leaving  Kirifuri  we- 
re trace  the  path  for  a  few  steps,  andi 
then  follow  another  to  the  r.  for- 
about  2  in.  This  path  crosses  the 
stream  above  Kirifuri  three  times, 
and  then  crossing  two  hills,  leads  to- 
another  stream.  Here  we  leave- 
the  path  and  plunge  into  a  thicket, 
keeping  the  stream  on  the  r.,  a 
rough  climb  of  3  or  4  did  bringing 
us  to  the  ^lakura-no-taki,  a  fall  of 
about  60  ft.  in  height.  The  best 
view  is  obtained  from  a  point  a  few 
yards  up  the  hill  to  the  1.  The  fall 
shows  very  prettily  through  the  trees 
as  it  is  approached,  and  altogether 
well  repays  the  toil  of  reaching 
it.  As  the  path  is  easily  mistaken, 
it  is  advisable  to  procure  a  guide, 
who  will  also  be  able  to  lead  one  a 
different  way  back  to  Nikko,  instead 
of  returning  via  Kirifuri. 

8.  Jakko.      To  the  site    of   the- 
temple  of  Jakko  and  to  Nana-taki» 


162 


Boute  16, — XikJco  and  Neighhourhood. 


(cascade),  'which  lies  in  a  recess 
bahiad  lemitsu's  mausoleum  at  the 
base  of  Nyoho-zan,  is  a  pleasant 
walk  of  1  lir.  from  Nikko.  The  way 
lies  through  the  village  of  Iri- 
machi  beyond  the  temples,  and 
turns  o3  at  right  angles  just 
before  descending  the  hill.  The 
temple  that  stood  here  was  burnt 
in  1876,  and  the  splendid  avenue  of 
pines  and  cryptomerias  which 
formed  the  approach  has  been 
ruthlessly  cut  down.  Behind  the 
site  of  the  temples  is  a  cascade,  a 
series  of  falls  of  about  100  ft.  in 
height.  It  goes  by  various  names, 
«one  being  Nana-taki,  and  must  not 
be  confounded  with  the  other  falls  of 
the  same  name  in  the  chasm  over- 
looked by  the  summit  of  Nyoho-zan. 

9.  Jakko  Icki-no-toki.  Shortly 
before  reaching  the  base  of  the  hill 
-on  which  the  temple  of  Jakko  stands, 
we  cross  a  bridge  over  a  small 
stream,  where  a  path  leads  off  r. 
■around  the  base  of  the  hill.  Less 
than  i  m.  up  a  beautiful  ravine, 
lies  the  waterfall  of  Ichi-no-taki. 
About  half  way  up,  the  stream  is 
again  crossed,  and  a  few  yards  fur- 
ther we  gain  the  first  view  of 
the  fall.  The  path  thence  to  the 
bottom  is  steep.  As  the  way  is  very 
muddy  after  rain,  and  only  a  log 
bridge  spans  the  stream,  this  ex- 
<cursion  may  sometimes  be  found 
awkward  for  ladies. 

10.  The  Deer  Park  (GoRydcht). 
About  half-way  to  Jakko  from  Iri- 
machi,  a  narrow  path  turns  of!  r., 
leading  up  a  small  valley  in  which 
the  Deer  Park  is  situated.  Five 
min.  walk  takes  one  to  the  keeper's 
house,  where  a  permit  to  enter  the 
park,  obtainable  from  the  local  au- 
thorities, must  be  presented.  With- 
in the  precincts  of  the  park  are  two 
pretty  cascades. 

11.  Uraiiii-gra-taki,  or  the  Back 
View  Cascade,  derives  its  name 
from  the  possibility  of  passing 
behind  and  under  the  fall.  It  lies 
on  the  r.,  some  distance  from  the 
•old  Chuzenji  road,  and  beyond  the 


path  to  Jq,kk6.  Turning  to  the  r. 
by  a  fairly  broad  path  shortly  after 
crossing  an  affluent  of  the  Daiya- 
gawa,  the  path  rises  on  to  a  moor, 
and  after  1^  hr.  walk  reaches 
several  tea-houses  by  the  side  of  & 
stream,  whence  the  remainder  of 
the  way  is  an  easy  climb  of  6  chd. 
The  view  of  the  cascade,  which  is 
about  50  ft.  high,  is  at  first  rather 
disappointing,  as  the  spectator 
sees  it  from  a  level  not  far  below 
the  point  where  it  shoots  out  from 
the  rocks ;  but  those  venturesome 
enough  to  pass  behind  the  fall 
and  up  the  ravine  on  the  other 
side,  will  be  well  repaid  for  their 
trouble  and  the  slight  inconvenience 
of  a  wetting  from  the  spray.  On 
reaching  the  other  side  of  the  fall, 
there  is  a  picturesque  view  of  the 
rocky  basin  overhung  with  trees,  of 
the  cascade,  and  of  the  deep  pool  into 
which  it  tumbles.  On  the  r.  and  1. 
of  the  principal  fall  are  two  smaller 
ones,  while  above  is  a  shrine 
dedicated  to  Fudo.  A  walk  of  5  or 
10  min.  beyond  Fudo  leads  to 
another  basin  with  a  small  cascade 
falling  into  it. — Urami  may  also 
be  conveniently  visited  on  the  way 
back  from  Chiizenji,  by  taking  the 
road  which  branches  ofi  1.  a  little 
below  Uma-gaeshi,  and  by  turning 
to  the  1.  again  at  Kiyotaka,  where  a 
very  muddy  path  leads  through  the 
woods  for  a  distance  of  about  1  ri 
to  the  tea-houses  above-mentioned. 

12.  Jikan-no-taki  (cascade). 
Crossing  the  stream  by  tne  side  of 
the  tea-houses  below  Urami,  a 
path  will  be  found  r.  a  few  steps 
beyond.  It  leads  up  the  hill,  mostly 
through  a  wood  for  a  little  over  1  ri, 
the  first  part  of  which  is  rather 
steep.  At  Jikan  there  is  a  pretty 
effect  of  water  falling  in  a  dozen 
streams  over  a  ledge  of  rock.  The 
view  from  the  top  of  the  fall  down  the 
valley  is  very  fine,  and  the  place  a 
charming  one  for  picnics.  About  1 
m.  below  Jikan,  and  visible  from  a 
small  clearing  at  the  edge  of  the 
hill  on  the  way  up,  is  another  fall 
called  Jikan  Ni, 


Ascent  of  Nyoho-zan  and  Nantai-zan, 


163 


13.  Ascent  of    Nyoho-zan    via 
Nana-taki,  or  the  Seven  Cascades. 

This  is  a  whole  day's  excursion, 
and  an  early  start  should  conse- 
quently be  made.     The  ascent  of 
Nyoh6-zan  is    the  best   of  all  the 
mountain  climbs  near  Nikko.   With 
a  good  guide,  4^  hrs.  will  sufl&ce  for 
the  actual  ascent,  and  2^  for  the 
descent.  Nyoho-zan  can  be  ascended 
as  late  as  the  middle  of  November. 
The  way  for  pedestrians  lies    past 
the    temple     of   Futa-ara-no-jinja 
and    a    minor    shrine    called    the 
Gyoja-do.      Here    take    a    narrow 
track  to  the  1.   through  the  wood, 
and      after    f    hr.    easy    walking 
with  a  short  climb    at    the    end, 
a  large  stone  known  as  the  Sesshd- 
seki  is    reached,   which    bears    an 
inscription    to  notify   that    killing 
game  is  prohibited  on  these  hills. 
(The  best  way  for  horses  and  kagos 
leads  a    short  distance    over    the 
Jakko  road  to  a  zigzag  path  clearly 
visible  on  the  hill  to  the  r.,  and 
joins  the  path  already  mentioned 
at  the   Sesshd-seki.)    Right  ahead 
rises  a  peak  called  Akapporiy  con- 
spicuous   by    its    precipitous    face 
of  red  volcanic,  strata.    The  path 
continues  up  the  grassy    spur    in 
front.     In  1  hr.   from  the  Sesshd- 
seki   we    arrive    at    a    hut    called 
HappUy  and  5  min.  later  we  come  to 
the  edge  of  a  precipice  overlooking 
a  gigantic  chasm,   apparently  the 
remains  of  an  ancient  crater  that 
has  been  broken  away  by  water  on 
the  S.E.  side,  where  the  Inari-kawa 
has  its  source.    Prom  Akanagi-san 
an    almost    unbroken    crater   wall 
extends     westward    to     Akappori. 
This  secondary  crater  appears  not 
to  have  been  very  deep,  as  its  pre- 
sent floor,  out  of  which    descends 
one    of    the    seven    cascades    that 
supply  the  Inari-kawa,  is  high  above 
the  greater  chasm  immediately  in 
front    of    us,      A    projecting    spur 
divides  the  upper  from  the  lower 
crater,  and  above  it  on  the  1.  rises 
a  lesser  peak  named   Sliaktijo-ga- 
take.      The   falls  are  viewed  from 
the  edge  of  the  precipice.     They 


consist  of  seven  cascades,  which 
seem  to  issue  from  the  side  of  the 
mountain,  and  are  not  remarkable 
for  either  size  or  beauty ;  but  the 
walk  to  this  point  is  one  of  the 
most  delightful  in  the  neighbour- 
hood and  affords  entrancing  views. 
The  excursion  as  far  as  Nana-taki 
and  back  occupies  from  5  to  6  hrs. 
Nyoho-zan,  which  may  be  seen  from 
the  moor,  is  invisible  from  this 
point.  The .  path  hence  winds  to 
the  1.  not  far  from  the  edge  of  the 
chasm,  at  first  very  steeply,  and 
then  through  the  wood  to  the  Karar- 
sawa  hut  in  about  1^  hr.  We  are 
now  at  the  foot  of  Nyoho-zan,  the 
ascent  of  which  will  occupy  not 
more  than  J  hr.  The  summit  is 
about  8,130  ft.  high.  To  the  N. 
it  commands  an  extensive  view  over 
a  sea  of  lower  mountains,  among 
which  lie  the  secluded  valleys  of 
Kuriyama-go ;  to  the  N.E.,  Nasn- 
no-yama  is  rendered  conspicuous  by 
the  smoke  rising  from  its  crater, 
and  further  N.  is  seen  Bandai- 
san ;  to  the  E.  is  Takahara-yama, 
which  also  has  the  appearance  of 
a  volcano.  On  the  immediate  W. 
of  the  spectator  is  Akakura,  merely 
a  continuation  of  Nyoho-zan,  then 
Ko-Manago,  0-Manago,  and  Nantai- 
zan.  Between  Akakura  and  Ko> 
^lanago  we  look  across  to  Taro-zan. 
Akanuma-ga-hara  is  partly  visible, 
and  beyond  it  the  bare  volcanic 
summit  of  Shirane.  Further  to  the 
S.W.  are  seen  Asama-yama,  Yatsu- 
ga-take,  and  numerous  other  peaks 
probably  belonging  to  the  Hida- 
Shinshu  range.  The  upper  half  of 
Fuji  rises  S.  over  the  long  horizon- 
tal line  of  the  Ghichibu  mountains. 
Away  in  the  plain  to  the  E.  and 
S.  are  perceived  the  broad,  and 
deep  Kinugawa,  stretches  of  the 
Tonegawa,  the  vill.  of  Nikko  with 
the  parallel  rows  of  dark  trees 
marking  the  main  roads,  and  far 
away  on  the  horizon,  Tsukuba-san. 

14.  Ascent  of  Nnntai-zan  viH 
Urami.  Just  beyond  the  tea- 
houses below  Urami,  the  path 
descends   to   the   1.,    crosses    the 


164 


Eoute  16. — Nikko  and  Neighbourhood. 


etream  and  turns  at  once  to  the  r., 
climbing  up  through  a  wood,  on 
emerging  from  which  Nantai-zan, 
O-Manago,  Nyoho-zan,  and  Akanagi 
jure  seen  in  front.  After  ascend- 
ing a  grassy  valley  for  about  20  min., 
a  sign-post  is  reached  where  a  path 
to  the  r.  diverges  to  Nyoho-zan  and 
.Akanagi,  while  the  1.  branch  ascends 
a  hill  and  gradually  winds  to  the 
T.  Entering  a  wood,  it  follows 
up  a  deep  thickly  wooded  gully, 
and  at  last  reaches  a  torii  in 
the  middle  of  the  wood  occupying 
the  depression  between  Nantai-zan 
and  O-Manago.  Here  the  path 
forks,  the  r.  branch  passing  the  spot 
from  which  O-Manago  is  ascended, 
and  continuing  on  towards  Yumoto, 
vhile  the  1.  climbs  up  to  the  Shizu 
■wo  Iwaya  (5,600  ft.),  where  the  back 
ascent  of  Nantai-zan  commences. 
Horses  may  be  taken  from  Nikko  to 
this  place.  The  time  on  foot  from 
I^ikko  is  3  hrs.  From  here  to  Ghii- 
zenji  round  the  base  of  Nantai- 
zan  is  also  a  good  8  hrs.  walk. 
The  route  for  some  distance  follows 
the  path  to  Yumoto,  and  about  1 
ri  after  crossing  the  bed  of  a 
stream,  diverges  to  the  1.,  shortly 
afterwards  issuing  on  the  open 
plain  of  Akanuma-ga-hara,  from 
•which  moment  the  path  cannot  be 
jnissed. 


5. — Kegon-no-taki,  Chuzenji,  and 

Yumoto. 

One  of  the  principal  points  of 
interest  near  Nikko  is  the  beautiful 
lake  of  Chuzenji.  The  road  is  prac- 
ticable for  jinrikishas,  not  only  to 
the  vill.  of  Chuzenji,  3  ri  12  chd 
from  Nikko,  but  for  2  ri  27  chd 
further  on  to  the  hot-springs  of 
Yumoto.  But  owing  to  the  steep- 
ness of  the  hill  which  has  to  be 
passed  on  the  way,  ladies  and  others 
unable  to  walk  are  recommended 
to  take  chairs  or  horses.  The  walk 
from  Nikko  to  Chuzenji  and  back 
in  one  day  is  a  favourite  excursion. 
Indeed  sturdy  pedestrians  are  able, 
2>j  making  an  early  start,  to  do  the 


whole  distance  to  Yumoto  and  back 
within  the  limits  of  a  day  ;  but  this 
is  neither  advisable  nor  necessary. 

Leaving    Nikko,    we   follow    the 
Ashio  road  along  the  course  of  the 
Daiyagawa  as  far  as  Fiitamiya  (1^ 
ri),   where  the    road    to    Chuzenji 
branches  off  r.    through   a    wood, 
still   continuing  by   the  river-side. 
This  river,  which  issues  from  Lake 
Chuzenji,  is  for  most  of  the  year  a 
small  and  quiet  stream;  but  at  times- 
it  becomes  a  dangerous  torrent  carry- 
ing  away  embankments  and  roads. 
The  ascent  is  gradual  and  easy  up 
to  the  hamlet  of  XJma-gaeshi,  where 
there    is    a  good  tea-house.    Just 
before  reaching    this  hamlet,    the 
old  path  from  Nikko,   still  much 
traversed  by  pedestrians,  joins  the 
new    road.      Beyond    Uma-gaeshi 
three  men  should  be  taken  for  each 
jinrikisha.      The    road  thence    for 
some  distance  is  cut  out  of  the  side 
of  the  overhanging  cliffs  close  by 
the  brawling  stream,  and  owing  te 
landslips  is  difficult  to    maintain 
in    order.       Formerly    the     path 
climbed  along  the  face  of  the  pre- 
cipitous  cliff  to  the    r.,    and    was 
impassable  even  for  horses ;  a  later 
road  can  be  traced  as  it  ascends, 
the  ravine  and    crosses    over    the 
rushing  waters  of  the    Daiyagawa 
on  faggot    bridges.       The   scenery 
between  Uma-gaeshi  and  the  small 
cluster  of    houses  at    the  foot    of 
the    real    ascent,    3  hr.   walk,     is 
wild  and  picturesque.     Leaving  the 
rugged  gorge,  a  winding  path  leads 
up    to    a  narrow    ridge,    where    a 
resting-hut    commands     a    pretty 
view  of  two  cascades  at  the  head  of 
the  ravine  to  the  r.      From   this 
point  the  ascent  to  the  top,  which 
occupies  about  f  hr.,  is  arduous.  At 
the  charmingly  situated  tea-house 
called  Naka  no  Chaya  half-way  up, 
the  coolies  usually  make  a  short  halt. 
On  the  summit,  the  road    passes 
through    a    wood    of    pines     and 
oaks,  many  of  which  are    covered 
with  the  long  trailing  moss  called 
Sartigase  {Lycopodium  sieboldi),     A 
path  to  the   1.  leads  to    a    plat* 


Kegon-nO'taJd.     Chuzenji^ 


165 


form  which  commands  a  fine  view 
of  the  cascade  of 

Kegoii-no-taki.  The  height  of 
the  fall  is  about  350  ft.  In  the 
earlier  part  of  the  year  it  i^ 
occasionally  almost  dry  ;  but  after 
the  heavy  summer  rains  it  shoots 
out  over  the  edge  of  the  over- 
hanging precipice  in  considerable 
volume.  The  best  view  is  obtained 
by  descending  the  side  of  the  preci- 
pice to  the  look-out  which  has  been 
erected  just  opposite  the  fall.  The 
road  onwards  soon  reaches  the  shore 
of  the  lake,  and  enters  the  singu- 
larly deserted  vill.  of 

Chfizcilji,  which  is  only  oc- 
cupied by  pilgrims  in  July 
and  August.  The  -houses  stand  in 
long  rows,  containing  for  the  most 
part  two  rooms,  one  above  and 
one  below.  Comfortable  accom- 
modation can  be  had  at  the  inns, — 
*Kome-ya  and  *Izumi-ya, — which 
have  pleasant  rooms  looking  out 
on  the  lake. '  European  food  can 
generally  be  obtained  during  the 
summer  months.  The  temple  here 
is  said  to  have  been  founded  by 
Shodo  Shonin,  in  A.D.  816,  after 
his  ascent  of  Nantai-zan.  The 
space  between  the  bronze  t(yrii 
and  the  temple  itself  is  considered 
holy  ground,  and  persons  in  jinriki- 
shas  or  A'^{/oshad  better  go  along 
the  lower  road  if  they  object  to 
being  required  to  alight  in  order  to 
pass  through.  Close  to  the  temple 
is  the  gate  of  Nantai-zan,  which  is 
closed  except  during  the  pilgrim 
season.  The  ascent,  occupying  about 
2  hrs.,  is   extremely  steep  ;   but  the 


view  from  the  summit  (8,150  ft.) 
well  repays  the  exertion ^  On  the 
S.  E.  lies  the  plain  stretching  to- 
wards Tokyo ;  on  the  W.  rises  the 
lofty  cone  of  Shirane-san ;  further  S. 
is  Koshin  zan ;  below  lies  the  marshy 
basin  of  Scnjo-ga-hara  with  the 
stream  meandering  through  it,  the 
blue  lake  of  Chuzenji,  a  glimpse  of 
Lake  Yumoto,  and  N.  o1  Shirane, 
the  peaks  of  Taro-zan,  0-rManago, 
Ko-Manago,  and  Nyoho-zan.  The 
ascent  can  also  be  made  from 
Yumoto  in  about  3^  hrs.  (see  p.  167). 
Liike  Chuzenji  lies  at  the  foot  of 
Nantai-zan,  being  surrounded  on 
the  other  sides  by  comparatively 
low  hills  covered  with  trees  to  their 
very  summit.  Its  greatest  length 
from  E.  to  W.  is  estimated  at  3  ri, 
its  breadth  at  1  ri.  The  lake 
abounds  with  excellent  salmon- 
trout  and  other  fish.f  Its  height 
above  the  sea  is  4,375  ft.  The 
road  to  Yumoto  lies  for  about  1 
ri  along  the  N.  shore,  at  the  edge 
of  the  forest  covering  the  base 
of  Nantai-zan,  to  a  promontory 
called  Senju-ga-saki.  Boats  may  be 
taken  to  this  point  from  the  vill. 
of  Chijzenji.  Far  away  on  the  op- 
posite side  of  the  lake  is  a  tiny  islet 
called  Kdztike-shitiia, 

[At  the  far  end  of  the  lake  stands 
a  small  shrine  close  to  a  brook 
remarkable  for  the  icy  coldness 
of  its  water.  This  is  a  pleasant 
spot  for  a  picnic,  and  is  within 
^  hr.  walk  of  the  Nishi  no  umif 
a  tarn  nestling  beneath  the 
wooded  hills  which,  at  this  end, 
recede  from  the  larger  lake.] 


tNUMBEB    AND    BESCRIFTIOIT    OF    7IKH    Pri' IKTO  LaKE   ChuZENJI   BY  THE    JaPAKESS 

Government  from  1873  to  1890. 


Caught  during  the  ) 
years  lbi:U(>-89.  i 

Weighing .-. 


Salmon. 


283,000 

149 

lbs.    277 


Salmon 
trout. 


556,000 

8,669 

lbs.  7,334 


Iitana 

(a  species 

of  white 

trout). 

Carp. 

Akakara^ 

Shrimps. 

137,500 

31,488 

lbs.   49,634 

22,000 

168 

lbs.    454 

800 

40,702 

lbs.  2,645 

16.000 

• 

166 


Route  16, — Xikkoand  XeighbourJiood, 


Jnst  beyond  the  promontory  the 
road  turns  away  from  the  lake, 
and  soon  crosses  the  Jigoku  no 
kaivay  a  slender  stream  which 
hurries  over  smooth  rocks.  Rest 
and  shelter  may  be  had  at  the 
hut  close  by.  A  little  further  on,  a 
path  branches  off  r.  through  the 
grass  to  the  cave  called  Jigoku  no 
kama  (Heirs  Cauldron)  at  the  base 
of  Nantai-zan.  The  road  ascends 
slightly  after  leaving  the  hut,  and  a 
few  steps  away  to  the  1.  bring  us  to 
the  foot  of  the  Byuzu  ga  takiy  or 
Dragon's  Head  Cascade,  the  most 
curious-  of  all  the  cascades  in 
this  neighbourhood.  It  consists  of 
a  series  of  small  falls  rushing  over 
steep  black  rocks  and  forming  two 
streams.  In  order  to  obtain  a  full 
view,  the  first  stream  must  be 
crossed.  On  the  1.,  the  second 
stream  plunges  down  through  deep, 
dark  hollows  in  the  rock,  and  loses , 
itself  in  hidden  windings.  The 
maples  at  this  spot,  during  the 
month  of  October,  display  the  love- 
liest tints  that  can  be  imagined. 
Beyond  this,  the  road  is  through  a 
desolate  forest  which  was  ravaged 
by  fire  some  years  ago,  until  it 
emerges  on  the  Akanuma-ga-hara^ 
or  Moor  of  the  Red  Swamp,  pro- 
bably so  named  from  the  colour  of 
the  dying  grass  in  autumn.  It  is 
also  called  Senjo-ga-hara,  or  Moor 
of  the  Battle-field,  on  account  of 
an  engagement  that  took  place  here 
in  A.D.  1389  between  the  partisans 
of  the  Ashikaga  Shoguns  and  those 
of  the  Southern  dynasty  of  Mikados 
(see  p.  87).  This  wide  solitude  is 
bounded  on  all  sides  by  forests,  above 
which  rise  the  peaks  of  Nantai-zan, 
0-Manago,  Ko-Manago,  and  Taro- 
2an.  Far  away  on  the  1.  is  a  wooded 
elevation,  in  the  centre  of  which  the 
cascade  of  Yu-no-taki  appears  like 
a  silver  thread.  Above  this  rises 
the  volcano  of  Shirane-san,  the 
only  bare  peak  in  the  vicinity.  The 
road  crosses  the  plain  to  a  point  not 
far  from  the  Yu-no-taki  where  it 
begins  to  rise  through  a  wood  of 
oaks.     The  bottom  of  the  ascent 


is  21  cho  from  Yumoto.  Half-way- 
through  the  wood,  a  path  diverges  1. 
to  the  foot  of  the  cascade,  whicH 
rushes  over  a  smooth  black  rock 
between  the  trees  at  an  angle  of 
60^,  forming  a  stream  that  feeds 
the  Ryuzu-ga-taki,  and  finally  falls 
into  Lake  Chiizenji.  Its  perpendi- 
cular height  must  be  about  200  ft. 
A  narrow  steep  path  by  its  side 
leads  up  to  the  top,  some  60  yds. 
from  the  shore  of  Lake  Yumoto^ 
80  called  from  the  hot  springs  at  its 
further  end.  This  liUce,  though 
smaller  than  Ltake  Chnzenji,  is 
more  beautiful.  The  road  winds 
through  the  wood  along  the  E.  side 
of  the  lake  to  the  small  vill.  of 

Tnnioto,  5,000  ft.  above  the  sea. 
Heps  the  water  is  partially  dis« 
coloured  by  the  sulphur  springs. 
The  inn  kept  by  Namma  Shin- 
jiiro  close  to  the  entrance  of 
the  vill.  on  the  r.  is  recommended, 
as  the  temperature  of  the  baths 
is  not  too  high  for  Europeans.  An> 
other  good  inn  is  the  Yamada-ya  ia 
the  centre  of  the  village.  There  are 
altogether  ten  springs,  some  under 
cover,  others  exposed  to  the  open  air, 
all  open  to  the  public  and  frequent* 
ed  by  both  sexes  promiscuously. 
Shirane-san  may  be  ascended 
from  Yumoto,  but  the  ascent  from 
Higashi-Ogawa  (see  p.  170)  is  to  be 
preferred. 

6. — Ascent  of  0-Manago  and  Nak- 
tai-zan  from  yumoto. 

The  ascent  of  O-Managro  is  made 
by  returning  to  the  Akanuma-ga- 
hara,  and  turning  to  the  1.  close  by 
a  well-known  cold  spring.  We  skirt 
the  moor,  passing  through  a  thick 
wood,  and  after  2i  hrs.  from  Yumo- 
to, arrive  at  a  shrine  containing  a 
stone  image  of  Shozuka-no-Baba, 
with  a  strange  medley  of  ex-votos 
hanging  outside.  Shortly  after- 
wards we  turn  to  the  1.  over  a  rustio 
bridge,  and  in  ^  hr.  reach  the  torii 
of  O-Manago.  The  distance  to  the 
summit  is  1  ri  8  choy  the  real  ascent 
beginning    at   a  bronze   image    of 


Boute  17. — From  Xikko  to  Omama  vid  Ashio, 


167 


PudO  on  a  large  Rtone  pedestal. 
Three-quarters  of  tlie  way  up,  we 
come  to  another  bronze  image 
erected  in  honour  of  the  mountain 
god  of  Ontake  in  ShinshiL ;  and  the 
last  bit  of  the  ascent  is  over  preci- 
pitous rocks,  where  chains  are  fixed 
to  assist  the  climber.  On  the  top 
stands  a  wooden  shrine,  with  a 
bronze  image  behind  it,  said  to  be 
Kunitoko-tachi,  the  Earth-god.  The 
view  is  less  extensive  than  that 
from  Nantai-zan. 

Nantiii-zan  can  be  ascended  from 
the  back  with  much  greater  ease 
than  from  Chuzenji,  by  starting  from 
a  hut  called  th^  Ozaioano  shiiku. 
Chains  at  one  point  enable  a  small 
"difficulty  to  be  surmounted.  In  this 
way  the  ascent  can  easily  be  made 
in  about  3^  hrs.  from  Yumoto. 

Japanese  pilgrims  make  the  round 
of  the  various  mountains  near 
Nikko  by  ascending  firs^  Nyoho- 
zan,  then  Ko-Manago,  descending 
to  a  place  called  Sabusawa,  and 
ascending  0- Manage  from  the  back. 
They  sleep  at  a  hut  called  the 
Shizu-no-Iwaya,  climb  Taro-zan  in 
the  forenoon,  Nantaizan  in  the 
afternoon,  and  descend  to  Chuzenji. 


ROUTE  17. 

From  Nikko  to  Tokyo  or  Ikao  vid 
Ashio  and  the  Valley  op  the 
Watabase-gawa.  [Koshin-zan.] 
Chuzenji  to  Ashio. 

Itinerary, 

NIKKO  to :—  Ri.  Chb.  M. 

Top  of  pass    3  8  8 

ASHIO 3  2  7i 

Sori 2  21  6| 

Godo  2  12  6} 

Hanawa 1  —  2^' 

OMAMA    3  4  7^ 

Total 15    11  37i 


From  Omama  toTokjo  by  train 
in  4^  hrs.  Or  from  Omama  by  train 
in  f  hr.  to  IMaebashi,  whence  see 
Route  14.  _ 

The  road  from  Nikko  to  Omama 
over  the  Hoso-o  Pass,  whose  sum- 
mit fs  4,100  ft.  above  sea  level,  is 
rough  but  generally  practicable  for 
jinrikishas  the  whole  way.  The 
Watarase-gawa  is  reached  before 
entering 

Asliio  (InnSf  *Tsuru-ya,  Izmni- 
ya).  This  place,  famed  for  its 
copper  mines  which  are  the  most 
productive  in  Japan,  lies  in  ^ 
deep  valley  at  an  altitude  of 
about  2,300  ft.  The  mines,  of 
which  there  are  two  in  the  neigh- 
bourhood, bear  respectively  the 
names  of  Ashio  and  Kotaki,  the 
latter  being  about  6  m.  from  the 
town.  The  ore  is  found  .in  a  matrix 
of  clay,  calcite,  and  quartz,  and 
is  almost  entirely  the  pyrite  or 
copper  sulphide,  although  a  small 
quantity  of  oxide  also  occurs.  The 
lodes  vary  from  6  to  20  ft.  in 
width.  The  most  approved  modern 
processes  of  treating  the  ore  are  in 
use.  The  electricity  for  the  motors 
in  the  Ashio  mine  is  generated  by 
water-power  at  a  station  about  1^ 
m.  distant.  The  average  yield  is 
19  %  of  metal,  and  the  total  annual 
product  of  finished  metal  from  the 
two  mines  reaches  the  remarkable 
figure  of  3,600  tons.  A  rope^way 
about  3  miles  in  length  has  been 
constructed  over  the  Ashio  pass  for 
convenience  of  transport. 

Persons  desirous  of  inspecting  the 
mines  should  obtain  an  introduction 
from  the  Office  in  Tokyo. 

[An  extra  day  at  Ashio  may  well 
be  devoted  to  visiting  the 
wonderful  rocks  of  Kosliiii-zaii. 

It  is  a  distance  of  8  chb  from 
Ashio  to  the  cluster  of  huts  at 
the  base  of  the  thickly  wooded 
mountain,  whence  a  good 
walker  will  in  3  hrs.  reach  a 
point  callel  the  Bessho,  4,500 
ft.,  where  the  rock  scenery 
begins.  In  order  to  visit  the 
rocks,  it   is  necessary    to    en* 


168 


JRoute  17. — From  Nihko  to  Oniama  via  Asiliio, 


gage  the  services  of  the  guide 
who  lives  at  the  hut.  The 
whole  round  will  take  about 
2 J  hrs.,  and  is  perfectly  safe 
lor  all  except  those  who  are 
troubled  with  dizziness. 

Leaving  the  hut  by  the  path 
on  the   S.  side,  we  commence 
the  round  of  the  rocks,  scram- 
bling up  and  down  the  steepest 
places    imaginable,    traversing 
deep   ravines    on    rough    foot- 
bridges, and  crawling  round  the 
face  of  precipices  by  the  aid  of 
iron  chains  and  foot-steps  cut 
in    the   solid    rock.      A    point 
called  .Mi-harashi    commands 
a  magnificent  prospect  of  the 
dense  forest-covered  mountains 
below,  and  Tsukuba-san  in  the 
plain  beyond.    Behind,  the  eye 
rests  upon  the  gigantic  rock- 
work,    amidst    which    conifers 
have    perched    themselves    in 
inaccessible  nooks  and  crannies. 
To  the  various  features  of  the 
landscape,  more  or  less  fanciful 
•names  have  been  given.     The 
most  striking  are  the    San-ju- 
san-gerij  a  mass  of  precipices 
dedicated    to    Kwannon ;    the 
Spring  dedicated  to  Yakushi, 
the  waters  of  which  are  believed 
to    be  efficacious  in    cases  of 
eye  disease ;    the  Kinoko-sekiy 
or    Mushroom    Bock,    beyond 
which  comes  the  Yagura-seki, 
supposed  to  resemble  the  towers 
on    the    walls  of    a    fortress; 
next  the  Uj-ami-ga-taki,  or  Back 
View     Cascade,     which     falls 
from  a  ledge  above  in  silvery 
threads.      The  huge  precipice 
close  by  is  called  the   Go-shiki 
no  seki  or  Rock    of  the  Five 
Colours.      The    guide     points 
out  a  rock,   the   Men-sekiy   in 
which  a  remote  likeness    to  a 
human    face  may   be    traced. 
Above  this  is  the  Go-ju  no  Toj  or 
Five-storied   Pagoda,  and  near 
it,  a  small  natural  arch  called 
the     Ichi  no  rnon.      Creeping 
through  this,  the  path  reaches 
the    Bonji-seki,     or    Sanskrit 


Character  Rocks,  next  passing 
the  Raikd-daniy  a  deep  gully 
supposed  to  have  some  occult 
relation  to  the  occurrence  of 
thunder-storms;  the  Toro-iiva, 
or  Stone-lantern  Rock ;  the 
Fujimi-scki,  whence  the  upper 
half  of  Fuji  is  seen;  the  Shishi' 
seki,  or  Lion  Rock ;  the  Ogi-iwa- 
ya,  or  Fan  Cavern ;  and  the 
Zo-seki,  or  Elephant  Rock. 
Next  we  come  to.  where  a  huge- 
natural  bridge,  called  the  Atncu 
no  Jmshij  or  Bridge  of  Hea- 
ven, used  to  span  the  ravine- 
until  destroyed  by  an  earth- 
quake' in  1824,  On  the  other 
side  is  a  hole  about  6  ft.  in 
diameter,  called  Ni  no  mon,  or 
Second  Gate,  •  where  th& 
bridge  terminated.  Ascending, 
from  this  point  a  very  narrow 
erevice  by  the  aid  of  chains^ 
the  nath  reaches  the  Mi-hara- 
shi  Sready  mentioned.  Then 
passing  behind  a  precipitous  de- 
tached rock,  called  the  Bybbii- 
iwa  from  its  resemblance  to  & 
screen,  we  ascend  a  gorge,  and 
finally  reach  the  Oku-no-iiv 
(5,450  ft.),  where  in  thre& 
caverns  are  small  shrines  de- 
dicated to  the  three  Shinto 
deities  Onamuji,  Saruta-hiko, 
and  Sukuna-bikona.  It  was 
the  second  of  these  whose  wor- 
ship was  originally  established 
on  this  mountain  under  the 
title  of  Koshin.  On  turning 
the  corner  just  beyond,  we  see 
the  tops  of  Nantai-zan  and 
O-Manago  bearing  about  N.,  and 
descending  the  hill-side,  reach 
the  Bessho  again  in  25  min. 
from  the  Oku-no-ii).  The  des- 
cent to  the  huts  at  the  base  of 
the  mountain  will  take  nearly 
2^  hrs.] 

The  scenery  the  whole  way  along 
the  banks  of  the  Watarase-gaiua  is 
delightful,  and  especially  between 
Ashio  and  Godo  quite  romantic. 
Occasionally  the  road  actually  over- 
hangs the  river,  which  now  flows 
on   in    a   perfectly  placid  course^. 


Eoiite  IS. — From  Nikko  to  Ikao  over  Hie  Konsei-toge.      169 


while  at  others  it  foams  and  dashes 
Amidst  tremendous  boulders.  After 
passing 

Sori  (Inn,  Komatsu-ya),  a  glade 
of  fine  cryptomerias  attests  the 
priestly  care  formerly  bestowed  on 
the  temple  of  Tenno.  The  road 
then  winds  up  and  down  the 
thickly  wooded  side  of  the  valley, 
high  above  the  rushing  waters  of 
the  river  to 
Godo  {Inn,  Tama-ya),  and 
Hannwa  {Inny  *  Nakachi-ya). 
After  the  latter  place  it  becomes 
less  picturesque,  leading  for  most 
-of  the  way  across  a  cultivated 
plateau.  Large  quantities  of  ai  are 
taken  both  with  the  fly  and  the  net 
in  the  Watarase-gawa,  which  is 
rejoined  just  above 

Oiiiama    (Inn    Tsuru-ya),    see 
p.  161. 

[An  alternative  way  from  Nikko 
to  Ashio  is  vi&  Chiizenji,  whence 
over  the  mountains  in  about  5 
hrs.  steady  walking  by  a  path 
impracticable  for  conveyances  of 
any  sort.  A  boat  is  taken  across 
the  lake  to  a  point  ^  hr.  dis- 
tant, whence  a  steep  path  leads 
through  a  wood  to  the  crest  of 
a  hill  overlooking  the  lake  and 
commanding  a  beautiful  pros- 
pect. This  climb  also  takes  } 
hr.  Looking  round  we  see,  tier 
upon  tier,  the  forest-clad  ridges 
"that  close  in  the  valley  of  the 
Watarase-gawa.  Ahold, densely' 
wooded^  hill  occupies  the  fore- 
ground, and  behind  it  rise  the 
mountains  of  Kotsuke  with  the 
Oyama  range  in  the  shadowy 
distance  on  the  1.,  while  the 
whole  scene  is  dominated  by  the 
graceful  slope  of  Fuji,  its  grand 
height  undiminished  by  the 
many  miles  of  country  that  lie 
between  it  and  the  spectator. 
Through  the  woods  below  on 
the  other  side  of  the  pass,  a 
glimpse  may  be  caught  of  the 
dark  waters  of  Lake  Chuzenji, 
with  Nantai-zan  beyond.  The 
iremaiuder  of  the  way  from  the 


top  of  the  pass  is  a  descent 
through  narrow  valleys  *  be- 
tween steep  and  scantily  wooded 
hills,'  and  over  rough  stones 
along  the  torrent  bed.  About 
10  m.  from  Chuzenji  the  mining 
vill.  of  Akakura,  with  its  copper 
smelting  works,  is  passed; 
whence  to  Ashio  some  2^  m. 
further  on,  the  road,  though 
rough  and  stony,  is  practicable 
for  jinrikishas.] 


ROUTE  18. 

From    Nikko  to  Ikao  over  thb 

KONSEI-TOGE.       [SHIRANE-SAN.] 

Itinerary. 

NIKKO :—  RL  Clio.  3f. 

Chuzenji    3    12  Tf 

Yumoto 2    27  ^ 

Top  of  Konsei  Pass  1     18  3} 

Higashi  Ogawa ....  4     18  11 

Sukagawa 1 .  18  3^ 

Okkai 2    —  5 

Ohara 18  3 

Takahhra   1    23  4 

NUMATA 2     13  5} 

Iwamoto    1     22  4 

Kami  Shiroi 1     10  3 

Shiroi 1    24  4 

Shibukawa    26  If 

IKAO 2    17  6 

Total 28    20  69 J 

This  route  is  much  to  be  recom- 
mended to  those  desirous  of  seeing 
something  of  comparatively  un- 
beaten tracks.  A  glimpse  is  ob- 
tained of  the  dense  forest  that 
covers  so  large  a  portion  of  the 
central  mountain-range;  and  the 
valleys  of  the  Katashina-gawa  and 
Tonc-ga\fa,  down  which  most  of  the 
latter  part  of  the  way  leads,  are 
most  picturesque.  Travellers  wishing 
to  return  to  Tokyo  by  this  route 
without  visiting  Ikao  can  joia 
the    railway  at     Maebashi,    3   ri 


170       TiOUte  18. — From  Niklv  to  Ikao  ovej'  the  Komei-toge. 


S7  cho  beyond  Shibukawa,  the 
railway  journey  occupying  3^  hrs. 
The  means  of  transport  for  bag- 
gage on  this  route  are :  coolies  over 
the  Kousei-toge  to  Higashi-Oga- 
wa,  horses  not  being  taken  across 
the  pass;  horses  to  ISumata,  and 
thence  jinrikisha  or  carriage. 

To  start  from  Nikko  itself  makes 
an  awkward  division  of  the  journey. 
The  start  should  be  made  from 
Chuzenji,  in  which  case,  sleeping 
the  first  night  at  Higashi  Ogawa, 
and  the  second  at  Numata,  the 
traveller  will  reach  Ikao  on  the 
afternoon  of  the  third  day. 

The  way  up  the  Konsei-toge  is  a 
continued  gentle  ascent  through  a 
forest  with  an  undergrowth  of  bam- 
boo grass,  terminating  in  a  steep 
climb.  Half  a  i*i  below  the  sum- 
mit is  a  small  shrine  dedicated  to 
the  phallic  worship  of  the  god 
£onsei. 

Tradition  says  that  tlie  original  object 
of  reverence  wag  made  of  gold,  but  that 
having  been  stolen,  it  was  afterwards 
replaced  by  one  of  stone,  Kx-votos,  chiefly 
wood  and  stone  emblems,  are  often  pre- 
sented at  the  shi-ine.  Very  little  is  known 
about  the  origin  of  phallic  worship  in 
Japan,  although  it  appears  to  have  been 
at  one  time  nearly  universal  in  the 
country  districts,  especially  those  of  the 
I^.  and  £. 

Prom  the  top  of  the  pass  on 
looking  round,  are  seen  the  thickly 
wooded  slopes  converging  towards 
the  dark  waters  of  Lake  Yumoto, 
behind  which  stands  up  in  bold 
relief  the  massive  form  of  Nantai- 
zan,  flanked  on  the  1.  by  0-Manago. 
To  the  r.  a  glimpse  is  carght  of  a 
portion  of  Lake  Chiizenji,  while 
Mount  Tsukuba  rises  in  the  distant 
plain  beyond.  On  the  Joshu  side 
the  thick  foliage  intercepts  all 
view,  and  there  is  an  equal  absence 
of  distant  prospect  during  the  whole 
of  the  long  downward  walk.  There 
is  no  water  for  2  hrs.,  neither  is 
there  any  sign  of  humalL  habita- 
tion in  the  forest,  except  a  solitary 
hunter's  hut.  This  likewise  is  de- 
serted during  the  summer,  at  which 
season  alone  the  tourist  will  think  of 
coming  this  way,  since  the  road  is  . 


practically  impassable  from  the  end 
of  October  to  well  on  in  March. 
The  foliage  is  very  fine,  and  in  the 
higher  part  of  the  forest  a  peculiar 
effect  is  produced  by  a  drapery  of 
moss,  hanging  in  gray  filaments  from 
the  branches  of  the  tall  conifers. 
On  nearing  Ogawa-no- Yumoto,  a 
few  huts  with  thermal  springs 
about  1  ri  from  the  vill.  of  Higashi 
Ogawa,  the  path  follows  a  stream 
flowing  down  from  Shirane-san. 

Iliirnshi  Oga^fa  (Inn  by  Kurata 
Einzaburo)  is  2,300  ft.  above  the 
sea.  The  Ogawa,  from  which  this 
vill.  takes  its  name,  is  a  small 
tributary  of  the  Eatashina-gawa». 
itself  an  affluent  of  the  Tonegawa. 

[Travellers  doing  this  rou£e  in  the 
inverse  direction  may  ascend 
Shirano-san  from  Higashi 
Ogawa,  descending  on  the  other 
side  to  Yumoto  near  Chuzenji ► 
A  reason  for  not  attempting  the 
ascent  from  the  Nikko  side  is 
its  extreme  steepness.  Even 
from  Higashi  Ogawa,  parts  of 
the  climb  are  by  no  means> 
easy,  nor  is  there  any  water  on 
the  mountain  side.  Shirane- 
'  san  is  a  volcano  8,800  ft.  high^ 
and  was  active  as  recently  as. 
1889.] 

Leaving  Higashi  Ogawa  and  con- 
tinuing down  the  valley  of  the 
Ogawa,  dotted  with  many  hamlets^ 
we  cross  over  a  hill  before  reaching 

Siika^a^va  in  the  valley  of  the 
Katashina-gawa.  From  the  ridge, 
at  the  foot  of  which  lie  two  hamlets 
with  curious  names — Hikage-Chido- 
ri,  or  Shady  Chidori,  and  Hinata- 
Chidori,  or  Sunny  Chidori, — there 
is  a  fine  view,  on  looking  back,  of 
this  valley  stretching  far  away  to 
the  N.  The  two  hamlets  are  situated 
on  opposite  sides  of  the  stream,  and 
united  by  a  bridge. 

The  terrace -like  formation  of  the 
hills  at  the  back  of  Hikage-chidori 
is  very  curious.  Three  terraces  at 
least  2  m.  long  are  distinctly 
marked,  each  of  the  lower  two  being 
a  few  hundred  yards  wide^  and  the 


Route  19,-~-Hitac}d,  Shimosa,  Kazusa,  ^  BosJiu. 


ITl 


iq)per  one,  sunnount«d  by  the 
usual  irregular  ridge,  being  from 
J  to  f  m.  in  width.  The  course  of 
these  ridges,  which  seem  to  mark 
the  successive  positions  at  different 
periods  of  a  river  bank,  is  S.W.  by 
N.E.     We  next  reach 

^kkai  (passable  accommodation), 
near  which  the  river  dashes  over 
perpendicular  walls  of  granite. 

[Opposite  Okkai,  on  the  far  side 
of  a  small  affluent  of  the  Kata- 
shina-gawa,  lies  the  vill.  of 
Oyu.  This  point  affords  an 
opportunity  of  climbing  Akagi- 
san  (see  p.  151),  the  descent 
being  made  to  Numata  on  the 
other  side.] 

The  path  now  leaves  the  valley 
of  theKatashina-gawa,  and  crossing 
a  well-cultivated  upland,  comes  to 

Ohara  (poor  accommodation), 
whence  it  winds  over  the  hills 
and  up  the  Kazusaka-toge.  The 
view  from  this  point  is  supegrb, 
including  Haruna-san,  the  Koshu 
Koma-ga-take,  Yatsu-ga-take,  Asa- 
ma-yama,  Yahazu-yama,  and  the 
Shirane  of  Kusatsu.    At 

Takahira)  the  road  becomes  level 
and  praaticable  for  jinrikishas. 

Numata  (Innj  Odake-ya)  was 
formerly  a  castle-town.  Soon 
after  passing  it  we  enter  the 
Talley  of  the  Tonegawa,  where  trout- 
fishing  is  largely  carried  on.  A 
portion  of  the  river  is  enclosed  with 
stones  and  fencing  running  out 
from  each  bank  to  the  centre  of  the 
stream,  where  a  bamboo  platform 
inclined  at  an  angle  of  about  15° 
is  fixed  upon  baskets  filled  with 
stones.  The  water  rushes  up  this 
platform  and  leaves  the  fish  at  the 
top.  They  are  then  caught,  and 
kept  alive  in  perforated  boxes 
which  are  placed  on  the  platform. 
The  scenery  is  very  picturesque 
almost  the  whole  way  from  Numata 
to  Shibukawa,  the  road  passing 
high  and  rugged  cliffs  that  over- 
hang the  Tonegawa.  At  one  point, 
-where  the  cliff  rising  sheer  from  the 
xiver  allows  no  room  for  a  pathway, 


a  passage  about  50  ft.    long    has 
been  cut  through  the  solid  rock. 

Shibukawa  is  a  considerable 
town.  Heuce  to  Ikao  is,  for  the 
most  part,  a  gentle  ascent  over 
grassy  mountain  slopes.  For  a 
detailed  account  of  Ikao  and  Neigh- 
bourhood, see  Route  14. 


EOUTE  19. 

Trips  in  the  Provinces  op  Hita- 
CHI,  Shimosa,  Kazusa,  and 
BosHtJ. 

1.  TOKYO  TO  TSUKUBA-SAN,  KASAMA, 
AND  MITO.  2.  TdKYO  TO  NARITA, 
KADORI,  CHOSHI,  AND  KASHIMA. 
3.  KASHIMA  TO  MITO.  4.  TOKYO 
TO  laSARAZU,  KANO-ZAN  [NOKOGIRI- 
YAMA]  ,  AND  TATEYAMA.  5.  TATE- 
YAMA  TO  KOMINATO. 

These  four  provinces  form  a  natural 
division  of  the  oonntry,  all  partaking 
more  or  less  of  the  same  characteristics 
/  of  flatness  and  sandiness.  The  opinion 
of  geologists  is  that  a  great  part  of  this 
district,  whose  sands  seem  to  have  been 
washed  up  by  the  sea,  together  with  tlie 
wide  Tokyo  plain  which  is  formed  by 
alluvium  washed  down  from  the  central 
mountain-ranges,  was  submerged  in  quite 
recent  times,  and  that  only  the  southern 
half  of  the  peninsula  of  Kazusa-Boshtt 
stood  up  out  of  the  waves.  This  process 
of  rising  and  drying  is  still  going  on. 
The  large  lagoons  on  the  lower  course 
of  the  Tonegawa  gradually  shrink  in 
size,  and  the  same  is  true  of  Tokyo 
Bay.  From  these  considerations,  it  will 
be  inferred  that  parts  of  this  district 
are  somewhat  di-eaiy  travelling.  Mount 
Tsukuba  (2,8S0  ft.)  in  the  N.,  and  the 
S.  portion  from  Kano-zan  downwards, 
with  tuff  ranges  which,  though  not  ex- 
ceeding 1,200  ft,,  seem  higher  because 
rising  almost  directlj'  from  the  sea,  will 
best  repay  the  tourist's  trouble.  In 
the  S.  more  particularly,  there  ai-e  lovely 
views,  as  well  as  a  mild  winter  climate 
due  to  the  Kuroghio,  or  Japanese  Gulf- 
Stream.  _  j 

The  three  provinces  of  Shimosa,  Kazu- 
sa, and  Bosha  ancientlj'  formed  one, 
under  the  name  Fti9a  noKnni,  said  to  have 
been  derived  from  the  excellent  quality  of 
the  hemp  grown  there.    The  district  was 


172  Eoute  19. — HitacIU,  Shimdsaf  Kazum,  dt  Boshu, 


subsequently  divided  into  Upper  and 
Iiower,  or  Kami  tm  Fuhii  and.  Shimo  tm 
Fnm,  contracted  into  Kaznm  and  Shi- 
indMi,  and  part  of  the  former  was  subse- 
quently coastituted  into  the  province  of 
Awa,  better  known  by  its  Chinese  name 
of  Bosha.  *  Upper '  and  '  Xower  *  seem 
to  lAive  ])een  applied  to  denote  the  relative 
proximity  of  these  two  provinces  to  the 
ancient  capital.  Kazusa,  B  "^sliQ,  and  the 
j?i'eater  part  of  Shimosa  now  constitute 
the  prefecture  of  Chiba,  called  after  a 
town  sitiirtted  on  the  E,  shore  of  Tokyo 
Bay.  Tlie  rest  of  Shimosa  and  Hitachi 
are  included  in  the  prefecture  of  Ibaraki, 
of  which  Mito  is  the  capital. 


1. — Ascent  op  Tsukuba. 
AND  :Mito. 

Mito  Railway. 


Kasama 


stance 

From 

5kyO. 

Names 
of 

Remarks. 

Stations. 

TOKYO  (Ueno), 

/'See  Northern 

48  m. 

OYAMAJct 

<      Railway, 
(.Route   24. 

52t 

Yuki. 

54* 

Kawashima. 

5Si 

Shimodate 

(     Alipfht  for 
(  Tsukuba. 

06^ 

Iwase, 

71 

Fukuhara. 

76 

Kasama. 

78t 

Shishido. 

Sik 

Uchihara. 

89* 

MITO. 

The  journey  by  rail  to  Shimodate, 
the  station  for  Tsukuba,  occupies 
a  little  over  3  lirs.  Jinrikishas 
can  thence  be  taken  to  the  foot  of 
the  mountain,  a  distance  of  about  6 
ri  over  a  level  and  fairly  good  road ; 
and  although  the  ascent  to  the  vill. 
of  Tsukuba  is  ^  hr.  rough  walking, 
the  whole  journey  may  be  done  in 
an  afternoon  from  Tokyo.  There  is 
fair  accommodation  at 

Shilii<»date  {Inn,  Tomo-ya);  but  it 
is  best  to  push  on  to  Tsukuba,  where 
the  inns  are  better.  The  jinrikisha- 
nien  will  act  as  guides  as  far  as 
the  cleanly  little  vill.  of 

Tsnkiiha,  {In7i,  *Edo-ya),  which 
lies  about  half-way  up  the  moun- 
tain^  and  contains  numerous  houses 


much|frequented  by  the  people  of 
the  province  of  Hitachi.  Most  of  the 
inns  command  a  fine  view  of  the 
plain  of  Tokyo,  stretching  away 
towards  Fuji.  The  ascent  of  the 
mountain  begins  immediately  after 
leaving  the  vill.,  the  path  passing 
through  the  grounds  of  a  temple. 
From  this  point  to  the  summit  of 
the  W.  peak,  called  Nantai-zan 
('male  mountain  '),  the  distance  is 
about  50  cho.  This  is  the  usual 
ascent,  being  less  steep  than  the 
path  up  the  E.  and  lower  peak,  Nyo- 
tai-zan  ('female  mountain').  At 
the  summit  are  numerous  shrines, 
of  which  the  chief  is  dedicated  to 
Izanagi.  Similarly,  the  temple  on 
Nyotai-zan  is  dedicated  to  his  con- 
sort Izanami.  There  is  a  magnifi- 
cent view  of  the  Tokyo  plain,  Fuji, 
Asama-yama,  an^  the  Nikko  range. 

The  name  Tfuhnha  is  said  to  be  com- 
posed of  two  Chinese  words  meaninjBT 
*  built  bank  ;*  and  the  legend  is  that 
Izanafri  and  Izanami  constructed  the 
mountain  as  a  bulwark  aj?ainst  the  waves 
of  the  Pacific  Ocean,  which  they,  had 
forced  to  retire  to  the  other  side  of  Kashi- 
ma,  formerly  an  island  in  the  sea.  This 
tradition  is  in  accordance  with  the  fact, 
recently  verified  by  geologists,  that  the 
E.  shores  of  Japan  have  been  gi'adu- 
ally  rising  during  many  centuries  past. 
One  legend  says  that  Tsukuba  U  a  frag- 
ment of  the  sacred  mountain  in  Cbtna 
called  Godai-san,  which  broke  off  and  flew 
over  to  Japan.  This  is  supposed  to  ac- 
count for  the  peculiar  plants  found  on  it. 
But  the  fact  is  that  no  l)otanical  species 
occur  here  that  are  not  also  found  oil  other 
Japanese  mountains,  although  the  inhabi- 
tants of  the  vicinity,  noticing  the  differ- 
ence l)etween  the  floras  of  the  mountain 
and  the  plain,  might  naturally  l)e  led  to 
suppose  that  there  was  something  peculiar 
about  the  f  oi-mer, 

^ 

Pines  and  cryptomerias  cover  the 
mountain,  and  the  rocks  about  the 
summits  are  difficult  to  scramble 
over,  the  assistance  of  an  iron  chain 
being  necessary  in  parts.  From  the 
W.  to  the  E.  peak  is  an  interval 
of  about  ^  m.  The  descent  from 
the  latter  is  70  cho.  It  passes 
over  and  between  huge  rocks,  to 
which  fanciful  names  have  been 
given,  from  their  supposed  resem- 
blance to  portions  of  the  human 
body.    The  descent  may  be  made 


Ascent  of  Tauhiba,     Kasama.     Mito, 


178 


either  to  the  vill.  of  Tsukuba  or  to 
the  hamlet  of  Sakayori,  In  the 
latter  case  it  is  advisable  to  have 
the  jiurikishas  sent  round  to  await 
one,  in  order  to  be  able  to  go 
straight  on  to  Shimodate  again. 
The  ascent  and  descent  take  about 
4  hrs. 

Leaving  Shimodate,  the  train 
reaches  in  1  hr.  the  small  town  of 

Kasaiiia  (Inn,  *Itsutsu-ya),  stand- 
ing at  the  base  of  a  lofty  hill  whose 
samniit  was  formerly  crowned  by 
the  castle  of  the  Daimyo  I^Iakino 
Etchu-no-Kami.  The  site  is  easily 
reached  by  a  path  leading  from  the 
broad  main  street  of  the  town.  At 
intervals,  traces  are  still  visible  of 
the  old  stone-faced  embankments, 
of  small  but  deep  dry  ditches,  and 
of  narrow  bridges  and  heavy  gate- 
ways. At  the  summit  are  steep 
flights  of  stone  steps,  and  above 
all  is  the  limited  space  originally 
occupied  by  the  Daimyo's  palace, 
round  which  runs  a  high  earthen 
embankment.  The  place  is  interest- 
ing, and  gives  a  good  idea  of  the  style 
of  Japanese  fortifications,  where 
nature  rather  than  art  had  raised 
the  defences.  The  stronghold  must, 
under  any  circumstances,  have 
been  well-nigh  impregnable.  The 
Temple  of  Inari,  once  of  high 
repute,  is  of  no  great  size.  It  stands 
on  the  1.  of  the  main  street,  the 
approach  being  up  a  narrow  alley, 
through  an  almost  continuous  arch- 
way of  tcriif  placed  within  a  few 
inches  of  each  other.  The  wood- 
carvings  in  the  chapel  are  beauti- 
ful, the  human  figures  being  excep- 
tionally well -formed. 

There'  is  a  jinrikisha  road  irom. 
Kasama  to  !Mito  (4^  ri) ;  but  it  is 
not  recommended  if  the  train  be 
available.  The  time  by  rail  is  50 
min.  As  the  train  approaches 
Mito,  a  number  of  caves  are  seen 
on  the  1.  in  the  high  bluff  on 
which  a  portion  of  the  town  is 
built.  These  galleries  were  hollowed 
out  for  the  sake  of  the  blocks  used 
in  the  manufacture  of  soft- stone 
furnaces. 


Mito  (Inn,  Suzuki-ya,  with  a 
branch  establishment  near  the 
railway  station),  the  principal 
town  of  the  province  of  Hitachi, 
and  capital  of  the  prefecture  of 
Ibaraki,  lies  some  3  ri  inland  from 
the  shore  of  the  Pacific  Ocean,  and 
is  situated  on  rising  ground  in  the 
midst  of  a  wide  plain.  The  town 
is  in  three  divisions,  the  Lower 
Town,  the  Upper  Town,  and  the 
Castle  Enclosure  lying  between  the 
other  two.  The  castle,  where 
formerly  lived  the  Princes  of  Mito, 
is  picturesquely  situated  on  the 
crest  of  the  lofty  ground  that  rises 
from  the  plain.  The  defences  con- 
sisted of  deep  trenches  on  the  upper 
town  side,  and  lofty  banks — the  edge 
of  the  hill,  in  fact — on  the  other, 
with  a  small  moat  below.  Three 
large  gates  and  one  tower  still 
remain.  It  is  worth  walking  round 
the  castle  and  under  the  beautiful 
trees  within  the  grounds.  The 
Public  Garden  on  the  E.  of  the 
upper  town,  overlooking  the  large 
mere  of  Semba,  is  also  prettily 
situated. 

It  was  laid  out  8om«  forty-five  years 
ago  by  Rekko,  the  old  Prince  of  Mito,  as 
a  retreat  for  himself  after  handing  over 
the  cares  of  government  to  his  successor. 

A  good  view  is  obtained  from  the 
summer-house  in  the  garden,  where 
men  of  note  formerly  assembled  to 
write  verses  and  practise  penman- 
ship. The  staple  manufactures  of 
Mito  are  cloth  and  paper.  Tobacco 
is  also  made  into  cigarettes  in  large 
quantities,  and  a  considerable  export 
trade  is  carried  on  in  both  salt  and 
fresh -water  fish. 

The  visitor  with  time  to  spare 
should  ride  out  to  the  pleasant  sea- 
side hamlet  of  Oarai,  a  favourite 
retreat  of  the  Mito  folks.  The 
journey  there  by  jinrikisha  with  two 
men  takes  about  2  hrs. 

For  the  coast  road  from  Mito 
southwards  to  Kashima,  see  p.  177 ; 
for  that  north  to  Taira  and  Kori- 
yama,  see  p.  187. 


174  Route  19. —  Hitachi,  Shimdsa,  Kozma,  <&  Boshu. 


2. — TOKYO  TO  NARITA,   KADORI,   CHO- 
SHI,  AND  KASHIMA. 

Itmeranj. 

TOKYO  to  :—  Bi.  Clio.  M. 

Ichikawa   3  25  9 

Yawata 29  2 

Funabaslii 1  12  3J 

Owada    2  28  6| 

Usui    2  —  5 

Sakura   1  13  3^ 

Shusui    1  3  2^ 

NARITA    2  9  6^ 

Ino 3  15  8| 

Sawara 2  26  6| 

Kadori    28  2 

Tsunomiya    18  IJ 

CHOSHI  (boat)    . .  10  15  25^ 

Total 83      6  81 


Omnibuses  ply  between  Ryogoku- 
bashi  (Tok^o)  and  Ichikawa,  where 
the  Treaty  Limit  is  reached  at  the 
Ichikawa  ferry  over  the  Yedogawa. 
The  road  is  nearly  level  the  whole 
way,  a  remark  which  applies  to  this 
route  in  general. 

Yawata  takes  its  name  from  a 
temple  standing  on  the  1.  side  of 
the  village  street,  tebout  half-way 
down.  The  temple  buildings  are 
poor ;  but  by  the  side  of  the  chapel 
is  a  remarkable  ichd  tree,  the  trunk 
of  which,  about  10  ft.  in  diameter, 
has  the  appearance  of  being  formed 
of  some  40  or  50  trees  of  different 
sizes,  growing  together  like  a  huge 
faggot. 

Funabaslii  (Iww,  Ebisu-ya)  is  a 
large  town,  a  little  way  inland  from 
Tokyo  Bay. 

This  place  is  celebrated  as  having  been 
the  rendezvous  of  the  village  chiefs  who, 
in  1644,  headed  by  the  famous  Sakura 
Sogoro,  proceeded  to  Yedo  to  protest 
against  the  tyranny  of  the  lord  of  Sakui-a. 
Sven  to  protest  was  in  those  days  a  cajntal 
offence,  acquiescence  in  all  the  mandates 
of  his  superiors  Ijeing  an  inferior's  sole 
and  sufficient  duty.  Not  Sogoro  only 
was  put  to  death :  his  wife  was  crucified 
with  him,  and  their  three  children  de- 
capitated before  their  eyes.  One,  a  child  of 
aeven,  was  butchered  as  he  was  eating 
the  sweetmeats  thrown  to  him  by  the 
compassionate  spectators.  This  pathetic 
Btory  is  gi-aphically  told  in  "Vol.  II  of  Mit- 
ford's  •  Tales  of  Old  Japan '. 


[The  carriage  road,  4^  ri,  to 
Chiba  (IfinSf  Kano-ya,  Ume- 
matsu-jia),  capital  of  the  pre- 
fecture of  the  same  name,, 
diverges  r.  at  the  end  of  the 
main  street  of  Fun  abashi.  Three 
miles  before  reaching  the  city, 
at  the  fishing  hamlet  of  Jnagi, 
is  a  bathing  establishment 
called  *  Keiki-Kwan,  where  it 
may  be  better  to  sleep  than  at 
Ghiba.  A  good  2  m.  walk  from 
Ghiba  is  to  the  famous  old 
temple  of  Daiganji^  standing 
in  a  pine  forest  where  thousands 
of  cormorants  roost  and  build 
their  nests.  There  is  a  direct 
road  from  Ghiba  to  Narita 
through  pleasant  country.] 

To  Owada  the  road  traverses  an 
upland  country,  where  some  of  the 
best  rice  in  Japan  is  grown.  Some 
way  on,  it  crosses  a  narrow  canal 
which  brings  the  Imba  lagoon  into 
communication  with  Tokyo  Bay.  It 
then  traverses  the  wide  plain  of 
Narashino,. where  occasional  reviews 
are  held  of  the  troops  forming  the 
Tokyo  garrison.  Th«  locality  is  be- 
lieved to  be  haunted  by  the  magic 
foxes  and  badgers  that  play  so  im- 
portant a  part  in  Japanese  folk-lore. 

Usui  (Inn,  Ota-ya)  is  a  good-sized 
posting-station  on  the  S.  shore  of 
the  lagoon. 

Sakura  (Inn,  Kome-ya).  At  an 
angle  of  the  road  1.,  just  within  view 
of  the  trees  on  the  rising  ground 
where  the  castle  formerly  stood,  is 
the  old  execution-grbund,  where  the 
farmer  Sogoro  and  his  family  suffered 
death  in  1645.  A  large  memorial- 
stone  now  marks  the  spot.  The 
road  turns  to  the  1.,  descends  into 
the  town  past  the  castle  site,  and 
rises  again  into  the  upper  town. 

The  castle  was  formerly  the  residence 
of  the  chief  of  the  Hotta  family,  which 
furnished  many  statesmen  to  the  Goroju, 
or  Chief  Council  of  the  Tokngawa  Sh5- 
guns.  Its  site  is  now  occupied  by  the 
barracks  of  the  garrison. 

The  temple  raised  to  Sogoro's  me- 
moraty  Shusui,  is  a  poor  building  ; 
but  the  number  of  worshippers  is 


Temple  of  Ftido  at  Narita, 


17^ 


great,  and  charms  bearing  the  name 
of  the  martyred  peasant  suU  in  large 
numbers. 

KaritA  (Inns^  Ebi-ya,  Wakama- 
tsa-ya)  is  famed  for  its  great  Temple 
of  Ftiddj  to  which  pilgrimages  are 
made  from  all  parts  of  the  country. 
The  wood  carvings  adorning  it  are 
Gpecially  noteworthy.  Near  the 
great  gate  is  a  well  where  pilgrims 
perform  the  ceremony  of  washing 
with  cold  water.  Close  by  is  the 
Danjiki-doj  where  devotees  retire  to 
fast  during  a  whole  week,  the  only 
i^efreshment  permitted  to  them  being 
the  use  of  the  cold  bath.  Formerly 
the  period  was  three  weeks. 

Tradition  says  that  this  practice  was 
inatitated  about  the  middle  of  the  16th 
century  by  the  saint  D5yo,  who  passed 
s  hundred  days  in  religious  exercises. 
At  la«t  his  prayers  were  answered  by  a 
▼ision  of  the  god,  who  offered  him  the 
choice  of  a  sha^  or  a  blunt  sword  to 
fiWBliow.  The  saint  chose  the  sharp  one, 
which  the  god  thrust  down  his  throat, 
CBusing  the  blood  to  flow  freely.  On 
awakening  he  found  his  intellectual 
powers  immensely  increased,  and  felt  no 
traces  of  the  wound.  Nevertheless,  priests' 
robes  dyed  with  the  blood  shed  on  this 
occasion  are  preserved  among  the  trea- 
Bures  of  the  temple. 

In  a  chapel  close  to  the  Danjiki- 
do,  worshippers  may  often  be  seen  sit- 
ting in  a  circle,  and  handing  round 
one  to  another  a  huge  rosary  to 
which  a  bunch  of  horse-hair  is 
attached,  and  chanting  the  invoca- 
tion Naviu  Amida  Butsu,  The 
Ifi-o-nwn,  is  a  massive  struc- 
ture of  keyaki  wood,  ornamented 
with  carvings.  Under  the  archi- 
trave are  eight  groups  representing 
Chinese  children  at  play,  and  sages 
probably  intended  for  the  *  Seven 
Sages  of  the  Bamboo  Grove,'  whose 
attributes  are  chess,  music,  drawing, 
and  caligraphy.  At  the  r.  end  are 
groups  of  young  cock-fighters,  and 
the  child  delivered  from  the  tall 
water-jar  by  his  sharp-witted  com- 
panion Shiba  Onko,  who  breaks  a 
hole  in  it  with  a  stone  to  let  the 
water  escape.  In  front  r.  is  a  sage 
writing  an  inscription,  1.  a  sage 
playing  on  the  harp.  On  the  1. 
aide  are  children  playing,  and    a 


group,  the  central  figure  of  which 
dances  to  the  music  of  flageolet  and 
drum.  At  the  back  are  groups  of 
checker-players  and  of  sages  in- 
specting a  picture. 

On  ascending  the  steps  of  the 
Honddj  or  ^lain  Temple,  the  first 
thing  that  strikes  the  eye  is  the  huge 
receptacle  for  money- offerings,  pre- 
sented by  inhabitants  of  Tokyo. 
Above  it  is  a  large  panel  with  carvings 
of  phcBnixes  gorgeously  coloured,  and 
on  the  r.  and  1.  of  this  are  coloured 
panels  of  peacocks,  also  in  reliefs 
This  is  the  only  colouring  about  the 
building,  the  rest  of  the  exterior 
being  of  unpainted  keyaki.  The  two 
sides  and  back  are  decorated  with 
eight  splendid  panels,  each  9  ft.  by 
4  ft.,  representing  groups  of  the 
Gohyaku  Rakan  in  low  relief, 
with  an  immense  variety  of  incident 
and  portraiture.  On  the  huge  doors 
that  close  the  sliding  windows  of 
this  part  of  the  building,  are  carvings 
of  the  Twenty-four  Paragons  'of 
Filial  Piety. 

In  the  Naijirif  or  Holy  of  Holies, 
is  the  sacred  black  image  of  Fudo, 
hardly  visible  in  the  dim  light. 
Among  the  rock-work  behind,  are  36 
small  bronze  figures  of  children ;  in 
the  centre  at  the  top  is  Fudo  in  a 
cave,  and  higher  up  bn  the  r.  the 
saint  En-no-Shokaku.  The  gro- 
tesque figures  popularly  called  Dai- 
ra-botchi  in  the  gables,  which  bear 
the  ends  of  the  ridge-pole,  are  excel- 
lent expressions  of  the  effort  to  sup- 
port a  heavy  burden.  Round  the 
building  under  the  architrave  are 
groups  of  fabulous  animals.  The 
three-storied  pagoda  is  a  very  beau- 
tiful example  of  this  architectural 
form,  finely  'decorated  and  paiuted. 
The  black  groups  on  the  four  sides 
represent  the  Sixteen  Rakan.  Close 
by  on  the  r.  is  a  handsome  library 
(Kyddd)t  containing  a  highly  de- 
corated revolving  octagonal  box 
borne  on  the  shoulders  of  parti- 
coloured demons.  Note  the  peculiar 
coffered  ceiling  painted  with  kalei- 
doscopic patterns.  In  the  ex-voto 
Hall    (Eina-do)   to    the    1.   of    the 


176  Route  19. — HitacJii,  Shimosa,  Ixazusa,  d  Boshu, 


Library,  are  pictures  of  Fudo  help- 
ing suppliants ;  also  a  huge  rosary, 
the  string  of  which  is  a  cahJe  made 
of  human  hair.  A  flight  of  steps 
leads  up  to  another  platform,  where 
stands  a  large  red  chapel  called  the 
Komyd-dd,  or  Hall  of  Resplendent 
Light,  dedicated  to  Dainichi.  Be- 
hind the  Koinyd-do .  is  a  long  low 
cave,  at  the  end  of  which  a  figure  of 
Pudo  is  dimly  visible  by  the  light  of 
a  lantern. 

A  shrine  called  Daishi-doy  dedi- 
cated  to  Kobo  Daishi  and  contain- 
ing an  image  of  that  saint  besides 
fine  carvings  of  dragons,  has  recently 
been  added  to  the  temple  buildings. 
Below  the  temple,  too,  on  the  1.,  a 
small  exhibition  of  relics  is  being 
Bet  up. 

[Nearly  17  ri  S.  of  Narita,  stands 
the  celebrated  temple  of  Kasa- 
mori  dedicated   to  Kwannon. 

The  following  is  the  itinerary. 

NARITA  to ;—  Ri.  Clio.  M. 

Shibayama    ..  4  —  9J 

Naruto   3  18  sj 

Togane   1  27  4j 

Oami 1  16  sj 

Honno    1  19  3$ 

!Mobara 1  24  4 

Ghonan 2  —  6 

KASAMORI..  1  —  2^ 

Total  ....   16    32  41 J 

The  temple  is  built  on  a  plat- 
form which  rests  on  the  point 
of  an  irregular  conii-al  rock 
some  60  ft.  in  height,  the 
edges  being  supported  by  stout 
wooden  scaffolding,  and  is 
reached  by  three  flights  of  stairs. 
A  country  road  connects  Kasa- 
mori  with  Kominato  on  the 
Pacific  coast,  distance  about 
11  ri.  For  Kominato  see  p. 
180.] 

From  Narita  the  road  lies  chiefly 
over  moorland  to 

Kadori.  also  called  Sawara  (Inn, 
Ukishima-ya,  besides  many  others 
crowding  the  entrance  to  the  splen- 


did  grove  of  trees  in    which  the 
temple  stands). 

The  temple  is  dedicated  to  Fntsn-nnsM 
or  Iwai-nushi,  a  deified  warrior  of  the 
mythical  i)eriod,  whose  symbol  is  a  sword. 
The  date  of  its  foundation  is  unknown, 
but  may  })e  placed  a  good  deal  earlier 
than  the  5th  century  A.D.  The  present 
building  was  erected  at  the  beginning  of 
the  17th  centuiy  and  restored  in  A.D.  1700, 
It  is  said  that,  as  late  as  the  beginning  of 
the  17th  century,  the  waters  of  the  Tone- 
gawa  came  right  up  to  the  base  of  the 
hill  on  which  the  temple  stands,  and  that 
all  the  com  a,nd  rice-fields  between  it  and 
Tsunomiya  have  been  reclaimed  giuoe 
that  period. 

The  temple  is  in  the  mediaeval 
style  of  Shinto  architecture,  with  a 
heavy  roof  of  thick  shingling,  and 
is  painted  red.  R.  and  1.  of  the 
oratory  steps,  a  mirror  and  a  sword, 
emblematic  of  the  two  sexes,  are 
suspended  in  bags  of  brocade  on 
branches  of  the  sacred  masdkaki 
tree.  Black  lacquered  doors  close 
the  entrance  of  the  chapel.  Frozn 
the  back  of  the  grove  is  a  fine  view 
of  the  plain  to  the  N.,  intersected 
by  the  Tonegawa  and  the  lagoons. 
Tsukuba  is  visible  to  the  1.  on  a 
clear  day.  Kashima  lies  out  of  sight 
behind  a  wooded  hill  on  the  r. 

At  Tftiiiioniiya  boats  to  Choshi, 
or  to  Ofunatsu  for  the  famous 
temple  of  Kashima  (see  next 
page),  can  be  obtained.  Shortly 
before  reaching  Choshi  the  river 
attains  a  breadth  of  over  a  mile,  bat 
contracts  considerably  at  its  mouth, 
where  it  rolls  between  sharp  rockB 
that  rise  abruptly  from  the  sea. 
When  there  is  any  swell  from  the 
E.,  this  bar  becomes  dangerous. 

Choslii  {Inns,  Daishin,  Komai- 
yasu)  consists  of  several  villages 
extending  for  over  2  m.  along  the 
S.  bank  of  'the  Tonegawa.  The 
chief  occupation  of  the  inhabi- 
tants is  fishing.  Immense  quantities 
of  iwashiy  a  fish  resembling  the 
pilchard  but  smaller,  are  calught 
here  and  along  the  coast.  They  are 
boiled  in  huge  cauldrons  to  obtain 
the  oil,  which  is  used  for  lamps ; 
.  and  the  residue,  dried  in  the  sun,  is 
sent  inland  for  manure.  The  odour 
from  this  process  is  overpowering. 


KasJiivia, 


17T 


and  renders  Ghoshi  and  the  coast 
villages  unbearable.  Kashima  can 
"be  easily  reached  from  the  opposite 
shore,  but  the  road  is  too  sandy  to 
be  agreeable,  and  the  best  way  is 
to  laud  at  IkisUt  from  which  the 
distance  is  a  little  i^der  3  ri. 

[From  Ofunatsu  it  is  ^  ri  to  the 
vill.  of  Ksisliiii|a,  crowded  with 
inns  and  restaurants  for  the  ac- 
commodfiition  of  pilgrims.  The 
name  Ka-shinia  means  '  deer 
island/  but  the  district  is  an  is- 
land no  longer.  It  consists  of  a 
sandy  spit,  13  ri  by  1  ri,  separa- 
ting the  sea  from  the  Kita-ura 
lagoon,  and  ending  at  the 
mouth  of  the  Tonegawa,  oppo- 
site the  town  of  Ghoshi.  The 
deer  used  to  wander  freely 
through  the  groves  round  the, 
temple,  but  they  have  now 
been  almost  exterminated.  A 
broad  avenue  leads  to  the 
temple,  which  is  situated  in  a 
grove  of  fine  cr3'ptomerias.  It 
consists  of  an  oratory  and 
chapel  connected  by  a  short 
corridor  in  the  usual  mediaeval 
style,  painted  red,  and  with  a 
thick  shingled  roof. 

The  principal  deity  here  wor- 
shipped is  Take-mika-zucbi.  This  god 
was  one  of  those  sent  down  from  Hea- 
ven to  Japan,  to  prepare  the  advent  of 
the  line  of  earthly  sovereigns  known 
Afterwards  as  Mikados.  The  temple 
is  usually  said  to  have  been  founded 
in  the  *  age  of  the  gods,*  and  cer- 
tainly dates  from  the  prehistoric 
epoch.  From  the  most  ancient  times 
it  was  the  practice  here,  as  at  Tse,  to 
rebuild  not  only  tlie  main  temple,  but 
also  all  the  inferior  ones  around  it, 
every  twenty  years ;  but  alx)ut  the 
beginning  of  tlie  9th  century,  for 
reasons  of  economy,  the  rule  l)ecame 
confined  to  the  principal  building. 

The  temple  faces  N.  But  the 
box  containing  the  sword  which 
is  the  embodiment  of  the  god 
laces  E.,  i.e.,  towards  the  Paci- 
fic Ocean.  A  narrow  path  be- 
hind the  temple  conducts  to  a 
small  enclosure  containing, the 
celebrated  Kaname-ishit  or  Pivot 
Stone,  supposed  to  be  a  pillar 
whose  foundation  is  at  the  centre 


of  the  earth.  According  to  one 
tradition,  it  was  sanctified  by 
the  local  god  taking  his  seat  on 
it  directly  after  his  descent  from 
heaven.  Another  account  is 
that  under  this  place  is  confined 
the  gigantic  fish  called  namaz2iy. 
whose  contortions  are  the  cause 
of  earthquakes,  and  that  the 
stone  acts  as  some  restraint  on. 
the  creature's  movements.  Mi- 
tsukuni,  the  second  Prince  of 
Mito,  is  said  to  have  dug  for  six 
days  round  it  without  finding 
the  lower  end.  About  1  m.  from 
the  temple  is  a  stretch  of  moor- 
land called  Tahaina  no  hara^ 
literally,  the  Plain  of  High 
Heaven,  where  the  gods  are 
supposed  to  have  assembled  in 
days  of  old,  and  where  stone  ar- 
row-heads are  still. often  found.]. 

S. — Kashima  to  Mito. 

Itinei'ary. 

KASHIMA  to  :—         Bi.  Clio.  M. 

Ofunatsu   —  18    IJ 

Hokoda  (boat) 8  —  19| 

^lomiyama    1  18    3f 

Konashi 1  —    2\ 

Natsumi    2  —    6 

Onuki —  18    IJ 

MITO 3  —    7| 

Total 16    18  40J 

The  above  distances  are  approxi- 
mate. From  Kashima  to  Ofunatsu 
is  by  jinrikisha.  The  boat  journey 
from  the  latter  place  to  Hokoda  is 
across  the  Kita-ura  lagoon.  Small 
hills  stretch  along  the  greater  part 
of  the  shore  on  either  side  of  the 
lagoon,  especially  towards  Hokoda. 
Boats  have  to  wind  in  and  out 
through  a  channel  traversing  the 
largo  reed-grown  marsh  in  front  of 
the  tQwn,  and  then  by  a  wide  canal 
penetrate  into  its  very  centre.  Pas- 
sengers are  transferred  from  the 
steamers  to  boats,  close  to  the 
entrance  of  the  channel. 

Hokoda  (decent  accommodation) 
is  a  poor  fishing  village.    From  this 


178 


Route  19. — HitdcJdy  Shimosa,  Kazusa,  d-  Boshu, 


place  two  roads  go  to  Moniiyama. 
On  leaving  the  village,  there  is  a  con- 
siderable ascent.  Jinrikishas  and 
pack-horses  are  obtainable  ;  but  as 
the  road  is  generally  in  bad  order,  it 
is  well  to  be  prepared  to  walk  at  any 
rate  as  far  as  Onuki. 

Moiiiiyaiiia  {Inn,  Koji-ya)  is  a  poor 
village.  There  is  a  direct  and  shorter 
road  to  this  place  from  Kashima, 
but  it  is  sandy  and  heavy  travelling. 

KonflSlli  (inuj  Ebi-ya  at  Benten, 
just  beyond  the  vill.).  The  roar  of 
the  Pacific  can  be  heard  all  the  way 
.from  Momiyama  to  this  place,  and 
in  windy  weather  clouds  of  spray 
Are  blown  over  the  low  rising  ground. 
Half-way  between  Konashi  and 
Onuki  the  road  descends  from  the 
wooded  headlands  to  the  beach, 
where  the  view  of  the  Pacific  is 
*  very  fine. 

Nntsumi  is  the  largest  of  the 
villages  in  this  part  of  the  country, 
all  small  and  poor,  and  inhabited 
only  by  fishermen.     At 

Onuki  jinrikishas  can  be  ob- 
ta  ined ;  but  they  are  more  nume- 
rous on  the  other  side  of  the  ferry 
beyond  this  village;  or  else  boats 
m  ay  be  taken  up  the  Nakagawa  to 
Mito. 

4. — Tokyo  to  Kisarazu,  Kano-zan, 

Tenjin-yama     [Nokogiri-yama]  , 

Kachiyama,  and  Tateyama. 

Small  steamers  from  Tokyo  (Rei- 
gan-jima)  to  Kisarazu  in  3  hrs.  For 
further  details  of  steamers,  see  p.  64. 

Itinerary, 

KISARAZU  to :—       Ri.  Chd.  M. 

Kano-zan 4  23  llj 

Tenjin-yama  (Mina- 

to)    3  —    7i 

Take-ga-oka 34    2| 

Kanaya 1  31    4| 

Motona 1  8    3 

Kachiyama 1  —    2^ 

Hojo   4  14  lOf 

TATEYAMA    ....  13     1 

Total 17    16  42| 


Shortly  after  leaving  Kisaraza, 
the  road  to  Kano-zan  gradually  as- 
cends a  valley  and  crosses  a  do-w 
range  of  hills. 

The  mountain  of  Kano-znn  falso  pro- 
nounced Kano-zan),  which  rises  to  Sk 
heierht  of  1,2R0  ftipron  the  ])onler8  of  tlie 
provinces  of  Kazusa  and  Bosha,  is  » 
cons]ncuou8  object  in  the  view  across 
Tokyo  Bay,  and  itself  commands  a  macmi- 
ficent  prospect.  It  is  sufficiently  elevate*l 
al)ove  the  plain  to  escape  the  damp  ftir 
which  renders  Tokyo  so  unhealthy  in. 
summer,  and  though  not  hiph  enon/?h  to 
have  a  temperature  markedly  below  that 
of  the  suiToundinj?  lowlands,  is  visited  by 
fresh  sea-breezes  that  render  it  an  agree- 
able resort  during  the  hot  months. 

Knno-zan,  {Inns,  *  Yuyii-kwan  in 
foreign  style  ;  Marushichi),  a  village 
of  about  100  houses,  stands  on 
the  top  of  the  mountain.  It  is 
divided  into  an  upper  and  lower  ^ 
street,  the  upper  street  running  E. 
and  W.,  and  the  lower  N.  and  S.  Be- 
tween them,  surrounded  by  a  mag- 
nificent grove  of  cryptomerias  and 
other  conifers,  stands  a  large  but 
decaying  temple  dedicated  to  Yaku- 
shi,  erected  in  1708.  The  Yuyu- 
kwan  Hotel  is  situated  in  the  upper 
street,  facing  W.  The  view  is 
superb  : — below,  the  blue  waters 
of  Tokyo  Bay,  beyond  which  rises 
Fuji;  to  the  l.,_the  Hakone  range ;  to 
the  r.,  the  Oyama  and  Tanzawa 
ranges  ;  and  further  N.,  the  Nikko 
mountains,  Akagi-san,  and  Tsukuba. 

The  best  walk  at  Kano-zan  (abont 
1  ri)  is  to  the  big  camphor-tree 
{kiisunoki)  one  of  the  five  largest 
trees  in  Japan,  and  probably  2,000 
years  old.  It  is  72  ft.  in  circum- 
ference ;  the  largest  branch  is  24  ft. 
in  circumference.  The  way  to  this 
tree — and  it  is  very  picturesque — 
leads  from  a  corner  in  the  upper 
street  where  there  is  a  school-house 
just  opposite  the  great  temple  of 
Yakushi,  and  descends  in  a  S. 
direction  along  the  1.  side  of  a 
thickly  wooded  valley.  Branching 
off  r.  from  the  way  to  the  big  tree,  is 
a  path  leading  by  a  steep  descent  to 
a  pretty  waterfall  some '85  ft.  high. 
It  is  about  13  chd,  or  1  m.,  from  the 
vill.  that  the  way  to  the  fall  diverges. 


Kano-ian.     Nokogiri-i/ama, 


179 


The  footpath  leading  to  the  ^all  is 
not  the  first  one  reached  (over 
which  there  is  a  small  torii)^  but  is 
about  ^  m.  further  on.  Japanese 
visitors — at  least  those  of  the  lower 
class — generally  improve  the  occa- 
sion by  taking  a  shower-bath  under 
the  cascade. 

Another  good  walk  is  as  follows : 
Passing  through  the  lower  street 
of  Kano-zan  towards  the  N.,  we 
reach  1.  a  flight  of  218  stone  steps, 
at  the  top  of  which  is  a  small 
Shinto  shrine.  This  is  the  highest 
point  of  the  mountain ;  but  as  it  is 
overgrown  with  tall  trees,  the  sum- 
mit commands  no  view.  Opposite 
the  steps  on  the  r.,  a  short  path 
le^i^ds  to  the  brow  of  the  hill,  whence 
there  is  a  fine  prospect  towards  the 
E.  and  N.  The  side  of  the  moun- 
tain here  slopes  away  very  abruptly; 
and  below,  as  far  as  the  eye  can 
reach,  lie  low  but  sharp  ridges 
covered  with  brushwood,  intersecting 
and  meeting  so  as  to  form -a  multi- 
tude of  tiny  valleys,  in  most  of 
which  rice  is  cultivated.  The  view 
from  this  point  has  received  the 
name  of  Kujuku  Tanif  or  the 
Ninety-nine  Valleys. 

The  descent  from  the  village  of 
Kano-zan  is  by  a  good  jinrikisha 
road  through  Sakurai  to 

Teiijiii-yama  or  Minato  {Inn 
Fukumoto-ro),  a  prettily  situated 
vill.,  containing  a  few  sake  breweries 
and  soy  manufactories,  the  produce 
of  which  is  shipped  in  junks  to 
Tokyo ;  but  the  population  consists 
chiefly  of  fisher-folk.  A  smooth 
sandy  beach  with  a  W.  aspect 
stretches  for  ^  m.  along  the  shore 
to  the  N.,  affording  excellent  bath- 
ing. About  a  mile  away  rises  Myoken- 
yama,  which  commands  a  fine  view. 
Ascending  from  the  Minato  >gawa 
^nd  following  along  some  cliffs,  the 
road  passes  through  a  lofty  tunnel 
hewn  in  the  solid  rock,  before  de- 
scending again  to  Take-ga-okx  and 
Hagyu.  Here  the  local  wonder  is  a 
small  cavern  containing  a  well, 
called  Kogane-ido,  or  the  Golden 
Welly  on  account  of  a  golden  scum 


that  rises  on  its  surface.  More  tun- 
nelling characterises  the  coast  road 
from  Hagyu  to 

Kanaya  {Inn,  Kaji-ya).  This 
place  possesses  an  interesting  relic 
of  antiquity,  known  by  the  name  of 
Tesson  Daigongen,  which  is  kept 
carefully  in  a  small  chamber  in  the 
rock  immediately  behind  a  little 
Shinto  chapel.  It  is  a  disc  of  iron, 
between  4  and  5  ft.  in  diameter  and 
some  3  in.  thick,  split  into  two 
unequal  parts. 

Local  tradition  says  that  it  was  dis- 
covered in.  the  bay  about  six  centuries 
ago  by  the  fishermen  of  the  vill.,  then 
consisting  of  eighteen  families,  but  that 
its  Veight  was  so  great  as  to  render  un- 
availing their  united  efforts  to  bring  it 
ashore.  They  therefore  implored  it  to 
divide  itself  in  two,  promising  that  they 
would  then  land  it,  and  worship  it  as  their 
patron  deity.  After  passing  all  uight  in 
anxious  expectation,  they  found  that  their 
petition  had  l>een  heard ;  and  fishing  up 
the  two  pieces,  they  placed  them  in  the 
rock  chamber,  where  the  split  disc  has 
remained  enshrined  ever  since  us  the  looftl 
god. 

[Instead  of  continuing  along  the 
coast  from  Kanaya  to  Motona, 
it  is  pleasant  to  make  the  ascent 
of  Nokoj^iri-yaniii  on  the  way. 
This  mountain  takes  its  name, 
which  means  '  Saw  Mountain,* 
from  the  serrated  ridge  of  peaks 
that  follow  each  other  in  regular 
gradation  from  the  highest  on 
the  E.  down  to  the  sea-shore. 
Bound  the  promontory  thus 
formed,  passes  the  ordinary 
road  to  Motona.  A  curious 
feature  of  Nokogiri-yama  is  a 
set  of  stone  images  of  the 
Five  Hutidred  Bakan,  scattered 
over  the  mountain  side.  Be- 
sides these,  there  is  a  shrine 
hewn  out  of  the  living  rook, 
in  the  centre  of  which  is  a 
stone  effigy  of  the  person  to 
whose  initiative  the  carving  of 
the  other  five  hundred  images 
was  due.  The  view  from  the 
point  called  Mi-Jiarashi,  850  ft. 
above  the  sea,  is  magnificent. 
Westward  rises  the  perfect  foim 
of  Fuji  above  the  low  coast  of 
Sagami,  while  to  the  S.  a  sue* 


180 


Route  19. — Hitachi,  Shimosa,  Kazusa,  S  Boshu, 


cession  of  bays  and  promon- 
tories marks  the  W.  coast  of 
Boshu.  First  comes  the  vill.  of 
Ypshihama,  bent  at  an  obtuse 
angle  along  the  sea-shore,  and 
beyond  it  the  cape  under  which 
nestles  the  little  town  of  Kachi- 
yama.  To  tlife  E.  are  the  higher 
peaks  of  Nokogiri-yama,  and  in 
front  the  mass  of  lesser  hills 
intervening  between  the  ridge 
and  the  valley  of  the  Tenjin- 
yama-gawa.  The  lighthouse 
on  Kwannon-saki  is  a  promi- 
nent landmark  bearing  N.W. 
byN.] 

Motona  is  continuous  with  Hoda, 
a  convenient  place  from  which  to 
make  the  ascent  of  Nokogiri-yama 
if  one  is  taking  this  route  in  the 
reverse  direction.  At  Hoda  the 
road  leaves  the  sea-shore.  It  is  a 
pleasant  walk  to 

Kachiyaiim  (Inn,  Nakajin),  for- 
merly the  castle  town  of  a  small 
Daimyo  named  Honda  Tsushima- 
no-Kami.  From  Kachiyama  the 
road  strikes  up  into  the  hills,  passes 
through  a  long  tunnel  by  the  quar- 
ries of  Nokogiri-yama,  and  descends 
to  Nago,  4^  hrs.  from  Tenjin-yama 
by  jinrikisha.  From  Nago  to  Tate- 
yama  is  about  1  hr.  walk,  in- 
cluding a  glance  at  the  temple  of 
Hachiman,  situated  in  a  grove  200 
yds.  to  the  1.  of  the  way.  The  porch 
has  some  good  modern  carvings, 
and  a  coffered  ceiling  containing 
seventy  two  compartments  with  a 
dragon  carved  in  relief,  the  design 
in  each  compartment  being  different. 
Within  is  another  coffered  ceiling, 
decorated  with  paintings  of  birds 
and  flowers. 

Hojo  (/nw,  Yoshino-an),  though 
given  in  the  itinerary  as  13  cho  from 
Tateyama,  is  practically  almost 
continuous  with  the  latter. 

Taieyinna  [Inn^  Tsuru-ya)  com- 
mands an  incomparable  view  of  Fuji 
across  Tokyo  Bay.  Nowhere  else  does 
the  mountain  seem  to  rise  to  so  great 
a  height,  completely  dominating  the 
Oyama  and  Amagi  ranges  which 
extend  r.  and  1.,  while  on  either 


hand  the  shores  of  the  bay  stretch 
round  to  form  a  fitting  frame  for 
this  lovely  picture.  A  steamer 
leaves  Tateyama  daily  for  Tokyo  at- 
about  10  A.  M.  calling  at  several 
places  along  the  coast,  and  reaches 
Tokyo  in  7  hrs.  under  favour- 
able circumstances.  Another  leaves 
about  noon  for  Uraga. 

6. — Tateyama  to  Kominato. 

Itinerary. 

TATEYAMA  to  :—    BL  Cho.  M. 

Hojo 13  1 

Takehara 2      5  5^ 

Matsuda    1    20  3^ 

Wada 1     18  3| 

Emi    1      7  .3  . 

Maebara    2    31  7 

Amatsu 1     26  4  J 

KOMINATO     ....     1      8  2^ 

• 

Total 12    15  30^ 

The  4  ri  walk  separating  Tate- 
yama at  the  entrance  of  Tokyo  Bay 
from  Matsuda  on  the  Pacific,  is  a 
short  cut  across  the  tiny  province 
of  Awa  at  its  narrowest  part.   From 

Mati^Udai  (Inn,  Abura-ya),  there  is 
a  jinrikisha  road  along  the  coast 
to  AniatsUf  1  ri  3  cho  from  Komi- 
nato. 

Wada  (Inn^  Kaneko-ya). 

£iiii  (Inn,  Hashimoto-ya)  is  a 
place  of  some  size,  standing  in  what 
for  this  part  of  the  country  appears 
a  wide  valley,  about  1  square  mile 
in  extent. 

Mtiebarai  (Inn,  Yoshida-ya)  stands 
at  the  mouth  of  a  small  river, 
the  Kamogawa,  whence  the  road 
leads  through  a  pine-wood  and  over 
a  sandy  shore  to  Amatsu.  A  steep 
promontory  has  to  be  climbed  before 
descending  again  to  the  sea  at 

Kominato  (Inn,  Kadokuma). 
This  village,  though  so  remote  and 
difficult  of  access — for  it  is  hemmed 
in  on  all  sides  between  the  moun- 
tains and  the  sea  —  is  known 
throughout  Japan  as  the  birthplace 
of  the  great  Buddhist  saint,  Nichi- 
ren. 


Kominaio. 


181 


According  to  some,  the  original  site  of 
the  temple  founded  by  Nichiren  himself  on 
the  very  spot  which  gave  him  birth,  is 
now  under  a  stretch  of  sea  called  Taino- 
urof  said  to  be  the  resort  of  numbers  of  tai 
fish,  which  are  held  sacred  by  the  fisher- 
men. Another  tradition  is,  that  from  the 
day  of  the  saint's  birth  until  he  was  seven 
days  old,  two  of  these  fish  five  feet  long 
nsed  daily  to  appear  in  the  pond  in  his 
father's  garden,  whence  the  spot,  since 
covered  by  the  waves,  took  the  name  of 
•  Tai  Bay.'  In  any  case,  there  is  only  just 
snfiicient  space  between  the  sea  and  the 
Bteep  hills  behind  for  the  row  of  houses 
forming  the  double  vill.  of  Kominato  and 
Uchi-ura. 

The  temple  raised  to  the  memory 
of  Nichiren  is  called  Tanjdjh  or 
« the  Temple  of  the  Birth.'  On  the 
1.  after  entering  the  outer  gate,  is  a 
small  square  building  over  the  well 
which  nominally  supplied  the  water 
used  to  wash  the  infant  saint, — 
nominally  only,  because  the  original 
spot  was  overwhelmed  by  a  tidal 
wave  in  1498.  We  next  pass 
through  a  huge  gate,  and  see  before 
us  the  Main  Temple,  an  unpainted 
wooden  building,  72  ft.  square  inside, 
built  in  1846.  The  porch  has  some 
excellent  carvings  of  tortoises  and 
lions '  heads,  and  the  birds  in  the 
brackets  of  the  transverse  beams 
are  good.  The  interior  is  very 
simple,  its  only  decoration  being 
four  large  panels  carved  with 
dragons,  and  a  coffered  ceiling 
with  the  Mikado's-  crest  painted 
in  each  compartment.  On  the 
altar  stands  a  handsome  black 
and  gold  shrine,  containiug  a 
life-like  image  of  the  saint,  who  is 
represented  as  reading  from  a  richly 
gilt  scroll  containing  a  portion  of 
the  Hoke-kyd.  The  doors  of  the 
shrine  are  closed  except  during 
service,  when  they  are  thrown  open 
in  order  that  the  worshippers  may 
gaze  upon  Nichiren's  countenance. 

Two  and  a  half  ri  from  Kominato, 
and  1^  ri  to  the  N.  of  Amatsu, 
stands  the  vill.  of  Kiyosumi,  cele- 
brated for  its  temple  dedicated  to 
Kokuz5  Bosatsu.  Kiyosumi  lies 
about  1,000  ft.  above  the  sea,  and 
being  free  from  mosquitoes  owing 
to  the  dryness  of  the  ta£E  of  which 


the  hills  consist,  is  much  frequented 
during  the  summer  months  by 
Japanese  desiring  to  escape  the 
damp  heat  of  Tokyo.  The  temple 
contains  some  good  carvings. 

Those  not  caring  to  return  from 
Kominato  the  way  they  came,  may 
follow  the  coast  road  right  round 
the  peninsula.  This  road  diverges 
from  the  route  already  given  at 
Matsuda.  The  itinerary  is  as  fol- 
lows. 

KOMINATO  to :—  Bi.  Chd.  M. 

Matsuda 8  13  20^ 

Shirako    1  6  2^ 

Asaina 33  2^ 

Shirahama 2  27  5| 

Mera 1  34  4^ 

Sunosaki 2  27  6^ 

TATEYAMA  ....  3  6  7i 

Total 21      1    51i 

The  road  is  mostly  sandy  and 
heavy  for  jinrikishas.  The  best  ac- 
commodation is  at  Matsuda  and 
Shirahama,  the  latter  vill.  being  at 
the  extreme  S.  point  of  the  penin- 
sula. Here,  on  the  low  headland  of 
Nojima,  stands  a  fine  lighthouse,  the 
light  of  which  is  visible  for  20  m. 
This  place  enjoys  a  much  warmer 
climate  than  other  parts  of  the  pro- 
vince. Luxuriant  beds  of  jonquils 
and  other  flowers  abound  near  the 
sea-shore,  and  fill  the  air  with  their 
fragrance  at  Christmas-time.  The 
fishing  boats  of  Mera  put  out  in 
large  numbers  during  the  season  to 
catch  bonitos  round  Vries  Island 
and  others  of  the  chain  extending 
S.  towards  Hachijo.  The  scenery 
from  Mera  onwards  is  very  pretty. 


182 


Route  20. — Shiobara  District. 


EOUTE  20. 

The  Shiobaba  District. 

nasu.  preumachi.  ascent  op  kei- 
cho-zan.  na8uno-tama. 

Nasn  (Inn,  *  Nasuno-ya)  is 
reached  by  the  Northern  Railway 
from  Tokyo  in  4^  hrs.  (see  Route 
24).  This  place  is  an  outcome  of 
railway  enterprise ;  so  too  is  the  re- 
demption of  a  large  extent  of  the 
moorland  which  here  stretches  on 
all  sides,  the  soil  having  been  found 
well-adapted  to  fruit  cultivation. 
Nasu  is  also  the  nearest  station  to 
the  favourite  hot-springs  of  Shio- 
bara, a  place  formerly  out  of  the 
beaten  track.  Railway  communi- 
cation has,  however,  brought  it 
within  easy  reach  of  Tokyo,  and  it 
is  now  much  frequented  by  all 
classes  of  Japanese.  The  itinerary 
from  the  station  is  as  follows. 

NASU  to .—  Ri.  Cho.  M. 

Sekiya 3    —  7i 

Owami    1     18  3^ 

Fukuwata 24  If 

Shiogama  13  1 

FURUMACHI...  8  i 

Total  5    37    14 


An  excellent  road  has  been  con- 
structed all  the  way,  practicable 
for  jinrikishas  and  carriages.  As 
far  as 

Sekiya,  at  the  foot  of  the  moun- 
tain, it  is  perfectly  level  and  goes  in  a 
straight  line  across  the  plain,  which 
is  covered  with  dwarf  chestnut- 
trees,— a  part  of  the  journey  apt  to 
be  found  very  trying  in  summer, 
from  the  absence  of  shade  of  any 
kind.  Pheasants  and  other  game 
are  plentiful  in  the  plain,  while 
in  the  Shiobara  mountains  bears 
are  still  occasionally  shot  by  the 
peasant  hunters.  After  leaving 
Sekiya,  the  road  follows  the  course 
of  the  Hokigawa  as  it  wends 
its    way   through  deeply   wooded 


ravines  to  the  plain.  At  various 
points  glorious  views  are  afforded 
of  the  river  below,  while  a  number 
of  cascades  lend  variety  to  the 
scene.  At  the  place  where  the 
valley  narrows  until  it  seems  little 
more  than  a  gorge,  the  road  be- 
comes highly  picturesque.  Every 
summer  it  suffers  severely  from 
the  heavy  rains;  but  a  staff  of 
men  is  generally  in  readiness  to 
effect  repairs,  so  that  jinrikishas 
can  always  pass.  The  Owami 
springs,  with  a  hut  or  two,  are 
seen  from  the  roadway,  at  the 
bottom  of  an  almost  precipitous 
descent.  They  are  in  the  bed  of 
the  river,  and  are  used  only  by  the 
poorest  class  of  visitors. 

FiikiiwAta  (Inns,  Matsu-ya  and 
others)  is,  next  to  Furumachi,  the 
most  popular  place  in  the  Shio- 
bara district.  At  the  entrance  to 
the  hamlet  of  Shiogama,  a  stone 
has  been  erected  to  the  memory 
of  the  famous  courtesan,  Takao, 
who  was  born  near  this  spot. 

[Here  a  bridge  crosses  the  river, 
leading  to  the  hot-springs  of 
Shionoyu  (16  cho),  sitciated  in 
the  bed  of  an  affluent  of  the 
Hokigawa.  The  road  to  these 
springs  is  practicable  for  jin- 
rikishas, ajad  commodious  inns 
have  been  built  on  the  moun- 
tain side  close  by.] 

Fnrumachi  ( Inns,  •  Fusen-ro, 
*  Kome-ya,  Aizu-ya)  lies  on  the  r. 
bank  of  th  e  river,  and  i^the  principal 
vill.  in  the  district.  It  is  shut  in 
by  mountains,  rising  in  beautifully 
wooded  peaks,'  one  above  another 
around  it.  Although  situated  at 
no  great  height  (1,750  ft.),  Furu- 
machi is  cooler  than  many  places 
at  higher  altitudes,  and  is  free 
from  mosquitoes  and  .other  insect 
pests.  Visitors  would  do  well  to 
take  provisions  with  them,  as  the 
native  fare  here  lacks  variety. 
Being  near  the  old  highway 
to  the  province  of  Aizu,  a  new 
road  was    built    some   ten   years 


FurumachL     Arayu,     Ascent  of  Keicho-zan. 


188 


ago,  during  the  height  of  the  road- 
making  fever,  to  connect  this  dis- 
trict with  Wakamatsu.  Solid 
embankments  supported  it,  and 
well-constructed  bridges  spanned 
the  streams.  But  after  a  short 
time  it  became  utterly  impassable 
for  a  distance  of  8  ri  from  Furu- 
machi,  the  traffic  over  the  route 
being  so  insignificant  that  the 
-expense  of  maintaining  it,  damaged 
as  it  incessantly  was  by  landslips 
and  heavy  rains,  was  found  to  be 
out  of  all  proportion  to  local  re- 
quirements. It  remains  to-day 
as  a  picturesque  ruin,  and  the  old 
road  leading  from  Imaichi  near 
Nikko  is  the  only  one  now  used. 

The  whole  Shiobara  district  is 
dotted  with  thermal  springs.  The 
water  at  Furumachi  is  moderate 
in  temperature  and  mostly  free 
from  mineral  deposit ;  the  other 
springs  are  somewhat  saline.  A 
favourite  midday  resort  for  visitors 
at  Furumachi  is  Sumaki  or  Taki- 
no-yu  (9  cho),  in  a  hollow  of  the 
hilla  with  a  decent  inn.  Here  the 
water  is  led  in  pipes  from  a  spring 
just  above  the  inn,  and  &  hot 
douche  can  be  taken.  The  temple 
of  Myd-onji,  a  plain  thatched 
structure  in  the  vill.,  is  of  little 
interest.  The  paintings  of  the 
sixteen  -  petalled  chrysanthemum 
on  the  ceiling  have  been  ruthlessly 
blotted  out,  that  flower  being  the 
crest  of  the  Imperial  family  and 
its  use  by  others  now  strictly 
prohibited.  The  only  relic  in  the 
possession  of  the  priests — and  it 
is  an  odd  relic  in  a  place  of 
worship — is  a  piece  of  the  ward- 
robe of  the  frail  beauty  above- 
mentioned. 

A  pleasant  excursion  may  be 
made  to  Arayii,  lit.  the  Violent 
Spring,  2  ri  from  Furumachi. 
The  path  leads  directly  behind  the 
Komeya  Inn  at  the  head  of  the 
vill.,  and  over  the  hills  in  sharp 
zigzags.  The  views  on  the  way 
are  amongst  the  finest  in  the  vici- 
nity. 


[Near  the  top  of  the  pass^n  the 
1.  is  a  tarn  called  Onuma, 
separated  from  a  smaller  called 
Konunia,  the  latter  situated  in. 
a  deeper  hollow  not  visible 
from  the  road.  A  path  follows 
the  'Upper  edge  of  these  tarns 
down  to  the  Shionoyu  springs, 
and,  with  pretty  glimpses  of 
the  valleys,  also  makes  a  good 
walk  from  Furumachi.] 

Arayu,  which  is  simply  a  cluster 
of  mediocre  inns,  lies  on  the  side  of 
a  hill  rendered  sterile  by  the 
sulphureous  water  that  breaks 
out  in  several  spots.  The  aspect 
of  the  place  is  very  desolate. 
Arayu  is  on  a  mountain  road  to 
Nikko,  frequently  taken  by  pedes- 
trians. The  distances  are  approx- 
imately as  follows. 

Arayu  to : —  Ri.  Cho.    M. 

Fujiwara    5    —    12^^ 

Okuwa    3    —      7i 

Imaichi  1     15      3f 

Total  9     15    23 

Thence  train  to  Nikko  in  ^  hr. 
The  accommodation  en  rcmte  is  poor, 

Arayu  is  the  best  starting- 
point  for  the  ascent  of  Keicho-zan, 
3.^  ri,  one  of  the  peaks  of  Takahara- 
yama  (5,880  ft.),  the  highest  moun- 
tain of  the  range  separating  the 
province  of  Shimotsuke  from  Iwa- 
shiro.  The  walk  is  somewhat 
rough  and  monotonous  for  about 
1  hr.,  all  view  being  shut  out  by 
woods  and  low  ridges  on  both  sides 
until  the  bed  of  the  Akagawa  is 
reached,  where  the  ascent  of  the 
Takahara-toge  begins.  From  the 
top  of  the  pass  to  the  small  lake  of 
Benten-ga-ike  is  a  distance  of  1  ri, 
and  to  the  summit  a  steep  climb 
of  20  cho  more.  The  view  from  the 
summit  is  very  extensive,  em- 
bracing Fuji,  Nantai-zan,  Gwassan, 
lide-san,  Bandai-san,  and  nume- 
rous minor  peaks.  The  shrine  on 
Keicho-zan  is  dedicated  to  Saruta^ 
hiko,  and  the  chief  time  of 
pilgrimage  is  spring.      An    early 


184 


Fiottte  21,^-Bandai-8an, 


start  is  necessary  if  the  ascent 
from  Furumachi  is  to  be  made  in 
one  day.  An  alternative  is  to 
make  it  on  the  way  to  Nikko. 

Nnsiino-yama  can  be  reached  in 
one  day  from  the  hamlet  of  Nasu. 
Jinrikishas  are  taken  to  the  hot- 
springs  of  Itamura  at  the  foot  of 
the  mountain,  where  there  are 
several  good  inns.  Nasuno-yama 
has  a  fortress-like  aspect  when 
seen  from  the  S.  Its  side  is 
honeycombed  with  hundreds  of  sol- 
fataras. 

Near  Itamura  is  the  Senthd-i^ki^  or 
Death-Stone,  famous  in  a  legend  which 
has  Ijeen  tli-amatised  as  one  of  the  iVe,  or 
Lyric  Dramas  of  mediaeval  Japanese 
literature.  The  story  is  that  a  Buddhist 
priest,  Genno  by  name,  while  journeying 
across  the  desolate  moor  of  Nasu,  pauses 
to  rest  l)eneath  this  rock.  A  spirit  forth- 
with appears  and  warns  him  that,  hy 
remaining  in  that  place,  he  is  risking  his 
life,  for  that  not  men  only,  but  even  birds 
and  beasts  perish  if  they  do  but  touch  it. 
The  spirit  and  the  chorus  then  recount  to 
him  in  verse  how  once  upon  a  time  there 
lived  a  maiden,  as  learned  and  accom- 
plished RS  she  was  sui^passingly  beautiful, 
whom  the  Emperor  Tol)a-no-In  took  to 
liimself  as  his  favourite  concubine,  and 
for  her  sake  neglected  all  the  affairs  of 
state.  At  last  one  evening,  on  the  occa- 
Bion  of  a  banquet  at  the  Palace,  the  lights 
suddenly  went  out,  and  from  the  girl's 
body  there  darted  forth  a  supernatural 
coruscation  that  illumined  the  whole 
scene,  while  the  Mikado  himself  was 
struck  down  by  disease.  On  the  repre- 
sentations of  the  court  magician,  Abe-no- 
Yasunari,  the  vile  witch— for  the  pre- 
tended beauty  was  evidently  nothing 
better  than  a  witch— was  driven  from  the 
Imperial  presence,  and  flew  away  through 
the  air  to  the  moor  of  Nasu,  where  she 
resumed  her  original  shape,  that  of  a 
fox.  In  the  second  act  of  the  play,  the 
spirit  appearing  again,  confesses  to  the 
good  priest  that  itself  is  none  other  than 
the  wraith  of  the  witch  whose  story  has 
just  been  told,  and  relates  furthermore 
how,  after  escaping  from  the  Palace,  she 
was  hunted  by  dogs  over  the  moor  of 
Nasu, — the  origin,  as  the  chorus  obliging- 
ly stops  to  explain,  of  the  Japanese  sport 
of  inn  ou  monOf  or  'dog-hunting.'  The 
priest  then  exorcises  the  evil  spirit  by 
nijeans  of  Buddhistic  incantations.  But 
his  exorcism  seems  not  to  have  been 
X>ermanently  effectual,  if,  as  is  asserted, 
poisonous  exhalations  still  issue  from  the 
Death-Stone  thrice  every  day.  The  stone 
itself  is  of  insignificant  size,  but  is  still 
regarded  by  the  peasantry  with  supersti- 
tioos  dread. 


ROUTE  21. 

Bandai-san. 

Train  by  the  Northern  Eailwray 
from    Tokyo    (TJeno    station)     to 
•  Motomiya  in  8  hrs.    Whole  time  of 
trip,  4  days. 

Motomiya  (Inuy  Mito-ya),  itself 
an  unattractive  town,  is  the  best 
place  from  which  to  reach  the 
volcano  of  Bandai-san,  noted  for 
its  terrific  eruption  on  the  morning- 
of  the  15th  July,  1888.  The  itiner- 
ary to  the  town  of  Inawashiro, 
situated  at  the  foot  of  the  moun- 
tain, is  as  follows. 

MOTOMIYA  to  :—     Bi.  CU.  M, 

Atami   4    —    9| 

Yamagata    2    —     5 

INAWASHIEO...     4    —    9f 

Total 10    —  24^ 

Leaving  Motomiya  by  jinrikisha 
in  the  morning,  Inawashiro  will  be 
reached  early  in  the  afternoon. 
The  road  as  far  as  Atami  (decent 
accommodation)  is  flat  and  fairly 
good  in  fine  weather.  Here  we  join 
the  road  from  Koriyama  station, 
which  is  1  ri  longer  than  that  from 
Motomiya.  From  Atami  to  Yama- 
gata, a  vill.  on  the  shores  of  Lake 
Inawashiro,  the  road  becomes  hilly 
afad  the  scenery  more  varied.  A 
part  of  the  way  lies  by  the  side  of  a 
canal,  which  has  been  constructed 
for  purposes  of  irrigation.  As  one 
approaches  the  cascade  formed  by 
the  water  of  the  canal  falling  over 
a  cliff,  it  will  be  found  advisable  to 
walk  up  the  narrow  path,  steep  as 
it  is,  rather  than  follow  the  wind- 
ings of  the  main  road  in  jinrikisha. 
From 

Tamagatn  {Inn,  Kashima-ya), 
small  steamers  cross  the  lake  to  T(mO' 
kuchi,  the  landing-place  for  Waka- 
matsu,  the  capital  of  the  province 
(see  next  Boute).  Lake  Inawcuhiro 
is  a  large  sheet  of  water  measuring- 


Bmidai-san* 


185 


a.boixt  4  ri  in  every  direction ;  and 
is  almost  surrounded  by  a  succes- 
sion of  thickly  wooded  hills,  above 
"which,  on  the  N.  sbore,  towers 
the  sharp  summit  of  Bandai-san. 
This  lake  is  not  a  true  crater 
lake,  as  has  been  supposed,  but  is 
probably  a  depression  formed  by 
evisceration  of  the  ground,  result- 
ing from  the  copious  outpourings  of 
volcanic  matter  in  its  vicinity.  Its 
principal  feeder  used  to  be  the  river 
Nagase,  the  upper  course  of  which 
was  entirely  stopped  by  the  debris 
swept  down  during  the  eruption  of 
1888.  The  lake  is  now  supplied 
mainly  by  the  Sukawa,  flowing 
from.  Dake-yama.  It  is  plentifully 
stocked  with  salmon-trout  and 
other  fish.  The  road  follows  the 
shores  of  the  lake  until  the  N. 
end  is  reached,  whence  it  leads 
over  a  wide  cultivated  area  to 

Inawasliiro  (Inn,  Shio-ya),  a 
dull  country  town  lying  on  the 
S.  E.  base  of  Bandai-san.  From 
here  the  ascent  of  the  mountain 
and  the  circuit  of  the  devastated 
-district  may  most  conveniently  be 
made. 

Bandai-san  (6,000  ft.)  is  the 
name  usually  given  to  a  group  of 
'  peaks  consisting  of  0*Bandai,  Eo- 
Bandai  (destroyed),  Kushi-ga-mine, 
and  Akahani-yama,  surrounding 
an  elevated  plain  called  Numa-no- 
taira.  This  group,  standing  on 
the  N.  side  of  Lake  Inawashiro, 
forms  a  very  conspicuous  object  in 
the  landscape.  When  seen  from  the 
town  of  Wakamatsu,  on  the  S.W. 
side,  it  appears  as  a  single  pointed 
peak.  0-Bandai,  or  Great  Bandai, 
is  the  most  prominent  of  the  peaks. 
Koma-no- taira  is  supposed  to  be 
the  remains  of  the  original  crater, 
and  the  peaks  mentioned  are  pro- 
bably parts  of  the  wall  that  encir- 
cled it.  'Within  it  were  several 
small  lakes  or  pools,  as  its  name 
imphes.  It  was  also  covered  with 
dense  forests,  which  were  destroyed 
in  the  last  eruption. 


••  On  the  morning  of  July  16th,  1688,  the 
weather  in  the  Bandai  distiict  was  fine, 
there  being  scarcely  a  cloud;  and  a  gentle 
breeze  was  blowing   from   the   W.N.W, 
Soon  after  7  o'clock,  curious    rumblinf^ 
noises    were    heard,  which    the    people 
thought    to   be    t)ie    sound    of    distant 
thunder,  often  heard  among  the  moun<- 
taiu-tops.     At  about   half-past  7,   there 
occurred   a  tolerably  severe  earthquBke, 
which  lasted  more  than  20  seconds.    This 
was  followed  soon  after  bv  a  most  violent 
shaking  of  the  ground.    At  7.45,  while  the 
ground  was  still  heaving,  the  eruption 
of  Ko-Bandai-san  took  place.     A  oense 
column  of  steam  and  dust  shot  into  the 
air,  making  a  tremendous  noise.    Explo- 
sions followed  one  after  another,  in  all  to 
the  number  of  16  or  20,  the  steam  on  each 
occasion  except  the  last  being  described 
as  having  attained  a  height  above  the 
peaks  about  equivalent  to  that  of  O-Ban^ 
dai  as  seen  from  Inawashiro,  that  is  to 
say,  some  1,280  metres,  or  4,200  ft.    The 
last  explosion,  however,  is  said  to  have 
projected  its  discharge   almost  horizoin- 
tally,  towards  the  valley  on  the  N.    And« 
considering  the  topography  of  the  moun- 
tain and  the  form  of  the  crater,  it  ie 
probable   that  previous  discharges  were 
also  more  or  less  inclined  to  the  vevtical, 
in    a    northerly    direction.     Tne    main 
eruptions  lasted  for  a  minute  or  more, 
and  were    accompanied    by   thundering 
sounds  which,  though  rapidly  lessening 
in   intensity,  continued  for  nearly   two 
houi's.    Meanwhile  the  dust  and  steam 
rapidly  ascended,  and  spread  into  a  great 
cloud  like  an  open  umm^Ua  in  shape,  at 
a  height  equal_to  at  least  three  or  four 
times  that  of  0-Baudai.    This  cloud  was 
gradually  wafted  away  by  the  wind  in  tb 
south-easterly  direction.     At  the  inmie- 
diate  foot  of  the  mountain  there  was  a 
rain  of  hot  scalding  ashes,  accompanied 
by  pitchy  darkness.    A  little  later,  dark- 
ness was  still  great,  and  a  smart  shower  of 
rain  fell,  lasting  for  about  five  minutes. 
The  rain  was  quite  warm.    These  pheno- 
mena, as  well  as  the  terrcn:  and  bewilder- 
ment which  they  caused  among  the  peasan- 
try, were  described  in  thrilling  terms  by  the 
newspapers  of  the  day.    While  darkness 
as  aforesaid  still  shrouded  the  region,  » 
mighty   avalanche    of   earth    and    rock 
rushed  at  terrific  speed  down  the  mountain 
slopes,  buried  the  Nagase  valley  with  its 
villages  and  people,  and  devastated  an 
area  of  more  than  70  square  kilometres, 
or  27  square  miles."— (Professors  Sekiy» 
and  Kikuchi.) 

The  total  number  of  lives  lost  in  this 
great  cataclysm,  which  blew  a  massive 
mountains  to  piece,  was  461.  Four  hamlets 
were  completely  buried  under  the  dis- 
rupted matter,  along  with  their  inhabi- 
tants and  cattle,  and  seven  villages  were 
partially  destroyed.  Whole  forests  were 
levelled  by  the  shock,  and  rivers  were 
blocked  up  by  the  ejected  mud  and 
rocks.    No  such  disaster  had  happened 


186 


Boute  22. — Frinn  Niigata  to  Wakamatsu, 


in  Japan  since  the  famous  eruption  of 
Asama-yama  in  1873. 

The  ascent  of  Bandai-san  from 
Inawasliiro  is  usually  made  by 
walking  for  about  2  m.  along 
the  old  highway  which  leads  to 
the  West  Coast.  A  path  then 
turns  sharp  r.  over  the  grassy 
moor,  and  for  a  considerable  dis- 
tance is  a  gradual  climb.  When 
the  higher  and  thickly  wooded 
part  of  the  mountain  is  reached, 
the  ascent  becomes  much  steeper. 
,  Looking  backwards,  glorious  views 
of  the  extensive  plain  in  which 
Wakamatsu  is  situated  are  ob- 
tained at  various  points.  A  walk 
of  about  3  hrs.  should  bring  one  to 
a  point  on  the  W.  side  of  the 
mountain  and  not  far  from  the 
crater  wall,  where  the  full  force 
of  the  explosion  may  be  best 
realised.  The  awful  scene  of  havoc 
bursts  upon  one  with  bewildering 
suddenness.  The  path  then  de- 
scends, and  passes  over  the  sea  of 
mud  and  rocks  in  the  direct  line 
of  eruption,  till  the  hill  shutting 
out  the  valley  of  the  Nagase-gawa 
18  encountered.  Crossing  this  and 
walking  over  the  site  of  the  annihi- 
lated hamlet  of  Kawakami,  we  next 
come  3  m.  further  down  the  valley 
to  the  hamlet  of  Nagasaka,  whose 
inhabitants,  in  endeavouring  to 
escape  to  the  hills  opposite,  were 
overwhelmed  by  the  sea  of  mud. 
At  th^  vill.  of  Mine,  less  than  f  m. 
from  Inawashiro,  a  deflected  por- 
tion of  the  muddy  stream  was 
arrested,  and  may  be  seen  piled  up 
several  feet  thick.  Great  changes 
have  since  taken  place  in  the  ap- 
pearance of  the  devastated  area, 
through  the  effects  of  erosion  upon 
the  rugged  masses  of  rock  and  mud 
that  had  been  left  by  the  cata- 
strophe. The  dammed-up  waters 
of  the  Nagase-gawa  now  form  a 
large  lake,  6  or  6  m.  long  and  about 
1  m.  broad.  But  taken  altogether, 
the  spectacle  is  still  one  of  the 
most  weird  and  engrossing  to  be 
seen  in  any  part  of  the  world. 


The  circuit  of  the  mountain 
as  here  described  occupies  a  day,, 
but  leaves  little  time  for  investiga- 
tion of  any  kind.  Provisions 
should  be  obtained  at  Inawashiro 
before  starting.  Guides  are  al- 
ways procurable. 


ROUTE  22. 

From    Niioata    to    Wakamatsit 
(alzu),  and  to    ivjotomita   on 

THB   NOBTHEBN   EaILWAT. 

Itinerary. 

NIIGATA  to :—  Bl  Cho.  M. 

Kameda 3  13  8^ 

Yasuda   5  28  14 

Komatsu    3  11  8 

Iwaya    (Mikawa)  2  4  5^^ 

Tsugawa 2  18  6 

Torii    3  6  7f 

Nozawa  4  10  10^ 

Banee  4  34  12 

WAKAMATSU...  3  7  7f 

Total  32    23    79^ 


This  journey,  practicable  for  jin- 
rikishas,  but  over  rougl^  and  moun- 
tainous roads,  may  be  made  in  2^ 
days.  One  ri  is  saved  by  taking 
boat  on  the  Shinano-gawa  from 
Niigata  to  Kameda.  The  first 
night*s  halt  should  be  made  at 
Kouiatsn  {Inrit  Komatsu-ya). 

[At  Tsiigawa,  the  Agano-gawa 
is  often  resorted  to  by  those 
taking  this  route  in  the  in- 
verse direction.  Niigata  can 
thus  be  reached  in  one  day 
from  Tsugawa ;  but  if  it  is 
slack  water,  a  halt  must  be 
made  somewhere  for  the  night. 
The  boats  are  about  45  ft.  long^ 


Eoute  23. — From  Koriyama  to  Taira  d  Mito, 


187 


by  6  ft.  broad,  and  are  pro- 
pelled by  one  man  sculling  at 
the  stern,  and  another  pulling 
a  short-bladed  oar,  worked  in  a 
loop  of  wistaria  at  the  bow. 
For  about  12  m.  the  river^ 
hemmed  in  by  lofty  cliffs, 
studded  with  rocks  visible 
and  sunken,  making  several 
abrupt  turns,  and  shallowing 
in  many  places,  hurries  the 
boat  swiftly  along.  The  rapids 
are  on  a  small  scale,  and  any- 
thing but  formidable.] 

The  p»rt  of  the  route  between 
Iwaya  and  Nozawa  will  be  found 
the  stiffest,  but  the  most  pictur- 
esque. The  road  passes  along  the 
side  of  a  ridge  above  the  rapid 
Agano-gawa,  with  fine  grey  cliffs 
on  its  further  side,  and  commands 
excellent  views  of  the  abrupt  pre- 
cipices of  lide-san  and  Myojin- 
tskke  on  the  S.W.  There  is  fair 
accommodation  at 

Kozawa  (Inn,  Hotei-ya).  Leaving 

Bange  (several  inns),  the  road 
enters  the  cultivated  plain  in  which 
Wakamatsu  lies. 

Wakamatsn  {Inns,  *Shimizu-ya, 
Mroato-ya),  formerly  the  castle- 
town  of  the  Prince  of  Aizu,  is 
situated  nearly  in  the  centre  of  a 
great  oval  plain  of  from  10  to  12  ri 
in  its  longest  diameter,  constituting 
what  is  properly  called  the  Aizu 
country.  The  plain  is  fertile,  culti- 
vated with  rice,  and  watered  by 
many  streams  that  descend  from 
the  surrounding  mountains  and 
unite  to  form  Lake  Inawashiro. 

The  Aizu  clan  specially  distinpuished 
itself  fighting  on  the  Shogun's  side 
during  the  civil  war  of  1868— indeed,  their 
enemies  termed  them  'the  root  of  the 
rebellion/  Though  their  cause  was  a 
losing  one,  their  gallantry  is  none  the 
less  remembered.  Even  lads  of  fourteen 
and  fifteen  years  followed  their  fathers 
to  the  field. 

The  Daimyo's  castle  stood  on  a 
hill,  a  short  distance  from  the  town ; 
but  it  has  been  razed  to  the  ground. 
With  the  exception  of  some  fine 
old    trees,    dilapidated  gateways, 


and  remains  of  moats,  nothing  re- 
mains to  attest  the  former  glory 
of  the  place.  Wakamatsu  is  a  con- 
venient point  from  which  to  make 
the  ascent  of  Bandai-san,  described 
in  Eoute  21.  A  pleasant  walk  can 
be  taken  to  Higashi  Oyama  {Inn, 
Shin-taki),  a  village  of  tea-houses  1 
ri  to  the  N.  of  the  town,  situated  in 
a  deep  ravine  through  which  flows  a 
stream  of  considerable  volume,  and 
much  frequented  on  account  of  its 
hot-springs.  The  waters,  which 
gush  out  of  the  rocks  on  the  r. 
bank  of  the  stream,  have  neither 
taste  nor  smeU.  Their  temperature 
varies  from  122°  to  131°  F. 

Leaving  Wakamatsu,  jinrikishais 
are  taken  to  Tonokuchi,  a  distance 
of  4  ri,  whence  small  steamers  ply 
across  Lake  Inawashiro  to  Yama- 
gata  (see  p.  184).  Then  by  jinri- 
kisha  to  Motomiya,  6  ri,  whence 
rail  to  Tokyo. 


EOUTE  23. 

From    Koriyama    thbodgh   the 

Province  of  Iwaki  to   Taira 

AND  Mito. 

Though  the  province  of  Iwaki  is 
not  generally  considered  attractive 
to  tourists,  the  following  itinerary 
is  given  for  the  benefit  of  such  as 
may  desire  to  traverse  it. 

Starting  from  Koriyama,  7  hrs. 
from  Tokyo  on  the  Northern  Eail- 
way,  we  take  the  road  leading 
through  Miharu  to  Taira  on  the 
Pacific  Coast,  and  thence  diverge 
S.  to  Mito  in  the  province  of  Hita- 
chi, 5  hrs.  from  Tokyo  by  rail. 
Time,  4  or  5  days. 


J85  Bonte  23,-^Fr(m  Eonyama  to  Taira  d  Mito. 


Itinerary. 

KORIYAMA  to :—    RL  Cho.  M, 

MIHARU 3  11      8 

Kadosawa 3  10      8 

Ono-niimachi    ...     3  15      8^ 

Kawamai    4  8    10^ 

TJwadaira  4  3     10 

TAIRA  2  14      5J 

Yumoto 1  30      4>k 

Tanabe   1  33      4| 

Sekida 2  33      7 

Kamioka    1  31      4f 

Takahagi   3  22      8f 

Sukegawa  4  5    10 

Onuma    2  15 

Ishigami-Sotojuku  2  2      5 

Tabiko    2  15      6 

MITO 2  31      7 

Total  46  11  113 


The  road  is  practicable  for  jin- 
rikishas  throughout,  but  mostly 
heavy  travelling. 

Miharu  {Inn,  Omiya).  Between 
this  town  and  Kadosawa,  a  small 


vill.  with  poor  accommodation,  the 
Kazakoshi-toge,  the  only  ascent  of 
any  note  on  the  way,  is  encoun- 
tered. Bice  and  tobacco  are  exten- 
sively cultivated  in  the  neigh- 
bourhood. Ono-niinmchi  (Inn,  Kiku- 
ya),  which  is  about  half-way  to 
Taira,  may  be  made  the  end  of  the 
first  day's  journey.  From  Kavja- 
mai  to  Uwadaira  the  scenery  im- 
proves, the  road  following  a  nar- 
row vaUey  between  low  hills. 
Beyond 

Tnira  (Inn  and  resit.,  Sumiyoshi), 
which  lies  in  a  beautifully  fertile 
plain,  the  country  becomes  flat  and 
uninteresting.  Tumoto  (Inn  by 
Anataki  Tokujiro)  possesses  hot- 
springs  of  some  local  celebrity.  Near 
Tanabe  is  the  port  of  Onahama. 
There  are  hot-springs  at  Kamioka 
(Inn,  Tokai-ro).  Accommodation  can 
be  had  at  TahaJmgi  (Inn,  Kashiwa- 
ya),  and  at  Sukegawa  (Inn,  Ebi- 
ya).  Between  Onuma  and  Owada 
the  road  leaves  the  coast,  and  strikes 
inland  to  Mito  (see  p.  173). 


i 

\ 


1 


SECTION  II. 


NORTHERN    JAPAN 


(Routes  24 — ^1. 


Eoiite  24:. — Northern  Railway  d  Oshu  Kaido. 


191 


ROUTE  24. 

Thb  Nobthesn  Railway  and  the 
Oshu  Kaido. 

vbom  tokyo  to  sendai  and  mobi- 
oka  by  bail.     fb03i  fukushima 

TO  YONEZAWA  BY  THE  KUBIKO 
KAIDO.  FBOM     YONEZAWA     vid. 

BANDAI-SAN  TO  MOTOMIYA.  FBOM 
IGHIN08EKI  TO  SHIOGAMA  DOWN 
THE  KITAKAMI-GAWA.  ASCENT  OF 
OANJU-SAN.  FBOM  MOEIOKA  TO 
AOMOBI  BY  THE  OSHU-KAIDO.  THE 
TAKEYAMA  PENINSULA. 


Names 
of 

Remarks. 

s^ 

Stations. 

TOKYO  (Ueno). 

4  m. 

Oji 

See  p.  05. 
Change  trains 

-wj*  •■••••••••••••••••••• 

in     eomingi 

6i 

Akabane  Jet 

8.  for  Shim- 

bashi  (To- 
1     kyo)    and 

12f 

Urawa. 

Yokohama. 

\&i 

Omiya  Jet. 

m 

Hasuda. 

«i 

Kuki. 

m 

Knrihashi. 

88 

Koga. 

^Change  trains 
(     for  Mito  line 

48 

Qyama 

<     and  for  sta> 

/     tions  on  the 

^    Ryomo  By. 

57 

Ishibashi. 

65} 

utsunomiYa 

(  Change  trains 
i     for  Nikko. 

761 

Nagakubo. 

83} 

Yalta. 

sio 

Nasu 

lAlight  for 
(     Shiobara. 

• 

W 

Kuroiso. 

107i 

Toyohara. 
SHIRAKAWA. 

113} 

183 

Yabuki. 

ISO 

Sukagawa. 

137} 
146 

Kdriyama  

Road  to  Taira. 
jAlight  for 
(     Bandai-san. 

Motomiya  

162 

Nitionmatsa. 

157} 

Matsukawa. 

166 
,174} 

nsi} 

1^7} 
195} 
200} 
2(?4i 
208} 

215} 

220} 

230 

242} 

240} 

2504 

264} 

272 

281} 

287} 

208} 

S06 
316} 


328 


FUKUSHIMA.. 

Kori. 

Kosugo. 

ShiralBhi. 

Okawara, 

Tsukinoki. 

Iwanuma. 

Masuda. 

senbai  


Iwaklri. 

Matsushima. 

Kogota. 

8emine. 

Ishikoshi. 

Hanaizuml. 

ICHIN03£KI. 

Maezawa. 

Mizusawa. 


Kui-osawajiri. 

Hanamaki. 
Hizome. 

MORIOKA  . 


f  Road  to  Yone- 
C    zawa. 


f  Branch  line  to 
\     Shiogama. 


I  Road  to  Akita 
'     (see    Rte. 


\ 


26). 


/'Present  ter- 
\  minus.  Road 
1  to  Akita  (see 
C  p.  204). 


The  Nortliem  Eailway,  from 
Tokyo  to  Aomori  is  open  as  far  as 
Morioka.  The  line  follows  the 
route  _of  the  old  highway  called 
the  Oshu  Kaido  for  a  great 
part  of  the  way  to  Sendai,  where 
it  makes  a  deep  bend  to  the  E. 
to  avoid  a  hilly  portion  of  the 
country,  but  agaiii^  joins  it  near 
Ichinoseki.  The  Oshu  Kaido  is 
well-maintained  throughout  its 
length  of  191  ri  from  Tokyo  to 
Aomori,  and  remains  nne  of  the 
finest  roads  in  the  Empire.  The 
pines,  cryptomerias,  and  other 
conifers  lining  it  are  frequently 
seen  from  the  carriage  windows ; 
but  not  until  the  train  reaches 
Utsunomiya,  the  junction  for 
Nikko,  with  the  glorious  range  of 
mountains  rising  in  the  back-> 
ground,  can  the  railway  rout«  be 
said  to  offer  much  in  the  way  of 
natural  beauty.  The  best  places  at 
which  to  break  the  journey  are 
Fukushima  and  Sendai.  The 
Northern  line  branches  off  from  the 
Tokyo-Takasaki- Yokokawa  Railway 
at  Omiya  (see  Route  12). 

A  short  distance  beyond  Knri- 


192 


Boute  24> — KortJieiii  Railway  d  Oshu  Kaido, 


Iiasliij  the  Tonegawa  is  crossed  by 
a.  fine  iron  bridge. 

The  Toneprawa,  which  waters  the  plain 
•of  T9kyo,  rises  on  Monju-san  in  the  pro- 
vince of  Kotsuke,  and  after  a  course  of 
170  m.,  empties  itself  into  the  Pacific  at 
Choshi,  while  a  second  arm  falls  into 
Tokj'O  Bay.  Lajyoons  line  its  lower 
course,  and  from  both  mouths  sandbanks 
stretch  out  far  into  the  sea.  The  Daiya- 
^wa,  which  flows  past  Nikko,  is  one  of 
its  affluents.  Owing  to  the  volume  of  the 
river  and  the  flatness  of  the  surrounding 
country,  inundations  with  disastrous  re- 
sults are  frequent.  The  name  Tone  is  a 
relic  of  the  time  when  the  Ainos  wandered 
over  Eastern  Japan,  before  the  occupation 
,  of  the  country  by  the  Japanese.  It  is  a 
corruption  of  the  Aino  word  fanne,  *  long,* 
this  nver  having  naturally  been  called  the 
Long  River,  in  contradistinction  to  the 
ftmailer  ones  of  the  same  district. 

Kogn  {Inn,  Ota-ya)  was  formerly 
the  residence  of  a  Daimyo.  River 
steamers  run  from  here  to  Tokyo 
daily,  making  the  journey  in  about 
14  hrs.  (see  p.  64).  Beyond  this 
place  the  mountains  come  in  view, 
the  peaks  of  Tsukuba  on  the  r. 
And  the  Ashikaga  hills  to  the  1., 
with  the  giants  of  Nikko  looming 
in  the  distance  ahead. 

Oyoma  (Inn,  Eado-ya)  is  a 
prosperous  town,  where  the  Mito 
Railway  branches  off  to  the  r.  and 
the  Byomo  Railway  to  Maebashi  to 
the  1, 

Utsnnoilliya  (Inn,  *  Shiroki-ya), 
formerly  the  castle-town  of  a  Dai- 
myo, is  now  the  capital  of  the  pre- 
fecture of  Tochigi.  The  town 
suffered  severely  during  the  civil 
war  of  1868.  It  takes  its  name 
from  the  large  Shinto  temple  of 
Fvia-ara-yama  no  Jinja,  or  Nikko 
Daimyojin,  dedicated  to  the  me- 
mory of  a  son  of  the  Emperor  Sujin. 

This  prince,  who  belongs  to  the  legen- 
dary period  of  Japanese  history,  is  said  to 
have  been  created  ruler  of  Eastern  Japan, 
and  to  have  founded  several  families  of 
local  chiefs. 

Leaving  Utsunomiya,  the  line 
begins  to  ascend,  and  passes 
through  a  pleasantly  wooded 
country  until  it  enters  the  wide 
plain  of  Nasu,  in  the  midst  of  which 
lies  the  little  viU.  of 


Nasn  (Inn,  Nasuno-ya),  whidi. 
has  grown  around  the  station  o£ 
the  same  name.  It  is  a  busy  place  in. 
summer,  on  account  of  the  visitors 
to  the  Shiobara  district,  described 
in  Route  20.  The  line  continues  ta 
ascend  in  more  or  less  steep  gra> 
dients  until  its  highest  point  is 
reached  at  an  elevation  of  1,160  ft^ 
at 

Sliirakawa  (Inn,  Isami-ya),  a 
flourishing  little  town,  and  for- 
merly the  seat  of  a  Daimyo  named 
Abe.  The  train  .passes  within 
sight  of  the  ramparts  of  the  old 
castle.  The  town  is  situated  on 
the  upper  waters  of  the  Abuknma- 
gawa,  a  fine  river  which  rises  on 
Asahi-dake,  and  flowing  N.  dis- 
charges into  the  Bay  of  Sendai, — 
length  125  m.  from  its  source.  One 
of  the  most  stubborn  contests  in 
the  war  of  the  Restoration  took 
place  around  here  in  1868.  A  road 
branches  off  from  Shirakawa  to 
Wakamatsu,  the  capital  of  Aizn, 
17i  ri  distant. 

Koriyiima  (Inn,  Ebi-ya)  is  a  flon- 
rishing  town,  in  the  vicinity  of 
which  silkworm  breeding  and  silk 
manufacture  are  extensively  cap* 
ried  on.  A  road  from  this  place 
leads  to  Bandai-san,  but  that 
from 

Motomiya  (Inn  Mito-ya),  the 
station  beyond,  is  to  be  preferred 
(see  Route  21). 

NihonmAt8n  (Inn,  Yamada-ya) 
is  a  pictui'esquely  situated  town, 
built  on  the  sides  of  an  exceedingly 
steep  hiU,  and  extends  a  ri  in  length. 
It  is  one  of  the  principal  silk-pro- 
ducing towns  in  the  province. 
The  valley  of  the  Abukuma-gawa 
opens  out  after 

Matsiikawa  is  passed,  and  the 
broad  sweep  of  the  couatry  to  the 
1.  is  very  fine. 

Fnkiisliima  ( Inn,  *  Matsuba- 
kwan)  is  the  capital  of  the  prefecture 
of  the  same  name,  and  was  formerly 
the  castle-town  of  the  Itakura 
family.  It  is  ^  good  place  at  which 
to  break  the  journey  northwards. 


From  Fukushima  to  Yonezatca. 


i9a 


Part  of  the  castle  was  burnt  during 
the  civil  war  of  1868.  Fukushima 
is  an  important  centre  of  the  trade 
in  raw  silk  and  silkworms'  eggs, 
and  during  the  season  is  the  head- 
quarters of  the  T5kyo  silk-buyers. 
The  number  of  weU-constructed 
buildings  in  European  style  gives 
the  town  an  unusual  air  of  prospe- 
rity. The  pine-clad  hill  called 
8hin6bu-yama,  a  prominent  feature 
in  the  landscape  from  the  railway, 
standing  alone  in  the  midst  of  the 
plain  with  a  Shinto  temple  and 
public  garden  at  the  foot,  is  worth 
a  visit.  A  pleasant  walk  or  ride 
may  be  taken  to  a  small  temple 
and  pagoda  of  the  Tendai  sect, 
known  as  the  Shinohu  Mojizuri 
Kwannon,  about  1^  ri  from  the 
town.  Within  the  pagoda  are  en- 
shrined the  Oo-cM  Nyorai,  or  Five 
Personifications  of  Wisdom.  The 
Mojizuri-ishi  or  '  letter  rubbing- 
stone/  is  a  huge  block  of  granite 
to  which  allusion  is  found  in 
Japanese  poetry.  Neither  the 
origin  nor  the  appropriateness  of 
the  name  of  the  stone  can  be  veri- 
fied. The  large  stone  Jiz5  behind 
is  a  somewhat  curious  piece  of 
sculpture. 

The  extinct  volcano  of  Azuma- 
yama  (6,365  ft.),  the  highest 
mountain  in  the  district,  lies  to  the 
W.  of  the  town,  and  has  a  soKatara 
at  the  top.  It  may  be  best  as- 
cended from  here;  but  the  distance 
is  estimated  at  over  8  ri,  and  guides 
are  difficult  to  obtain. 

[Fukushima  to   Yonezawa  by 

THE  KUBIKO  KaIDO. 

Itinerary. 

.      F  0  KUSHIM A  to :—  Ri.  Chd.  M. 

Sekiba 2    20    6^ 

Odaki 2      7    5i 

Ohira  2    12    5i 

Kariyasu    2      8    5^ 

YONEZAWA   ...  3      3    n 

Total 12    14  30i 

^    ■  -  ■- 


This  road,  known  as  the 
Kuriko  Kaido,  from  a  long 
tunnel  through  the  mountain 
of  that  name,  leads  over  a 
difficult  mountainous  district, 
and  is  one  of  the  finest  pieces 
of  engineering  in  the  North. 
Completed  about  1881,  after 
very  heavy  outlay  owing  to 
unavoidable  tunnelling,  it  at 
once  became  the  main  road  to 
Yonezawa, — the  old  road,  little 
better  than  a  track,  which 
passed  over  a  ridge  of  Azuma- 
yama  at  an  altitude  of  about 
2,500  ft.,  being  impracticable 
for  vehicles  of  any  kind.  The 
traffic  over  the  new  road  is 
considerable,  railway  commu- 
nication to  Fukushima  hav- 
ing brought  Yonezawa  so  much 
nearer  to  the  chief  mar- 
kets. Carriages  are  available ; 
but  jinrikishas  are  much  to  be 
preferred,  the  journey  then 
taking. from  8  to  10  hrs.  A 
good  level  road  runs  across 
the  plain  to  the  foot  of  the 
mountains  at  Sehiha,  a  poor 
village.  Just  before  entering 
the  first  tunnel,  1  ri  10  chd 
from  Sekiba,  the  road  is  cut 
out  of  the  sheer  cliff ;  and  the 
stream,  one  of  the  tributaries 
of  the  Abukuma-gawa,  runs  in 
a  deep  gorge  some  hundreds  of 
ft.  below.  A  short  distance 
beyond,  the  stream  is  crossed 
by  a  bridge,  and  the  road  from 
this  point  onward  for  about 
a  mile  is  very  picturesque. 
Odaki  is  a  posting-station,^ 
where  the  accommodation  is 
poor,  as  indeed  it  is  at  every 
halting_- place  on  the  way. 
From  Odaki  to  Futatsu-goya^, 
where,  as  the  name  implies, 
there  are  two  resting-houses, 
it  is  a  steady  ascent,  although 
nowhere  can  the  gradient  on 
the  Fukushima  side  be  said 
to  be  very  great.  A  second 
tunnel  of  3  chd  14  hen  in 
length  is  here  encountered.   A 


194 


Eoute  24, — Norifiem  Eailway  S  Oshu  Kaidd. 


moderate  descent  is  then  made 
to  Ohira,  whence  the  road 
again  ascends  for  12  chb  until 
it  reaches  its  highest  level, 
about  3,000  ft.,  where  Kui-iko- 
yama  is  pierced  by  a  tunnel  8 
cho  25  hen  (over  \  mile)  in 
len  gth .  The  sides  of  the  moun  - 
tains  are  densely  wooded,  the 
oak  being  specially  noticeable  j 
water  also  is  plentiful.  Pine 
torches  have  to  be  purchased 
at  the  entrance  of  the  tunnel, 
the  passage  through  which  is 
very  wet  and  rough.  At  in- 
tervals, the  tunnel  is  widened 
so  as  to  admit  of  carriages 
crossing  each  other  freely. 
The  telegraph  line  is  carried 
through  the  tunnel  by  means 
of  a  cable  enclosed  in  tubing. 
On  the  Yonezawa  side,  at  the 
entrance,  is  a  large  stone 
tablet  recording  the  history  of 
the  undertaking.  It  states 
that  the  tunnel  was  com- 
menced in  December,  1876,  and 
finished  in  October,  1880,  at  a 
cost  of  $126,900,  of  which  sum 
the  Government  made  a  grant 
of  $31,900,  the  remainder  being 
subscribed  by  the  people  of  the 
province.  The  first  part  of  the 
descent  from  the  long  tunnel 
is  steeper  than  that  on  the 
Fukushima  side;  but  after  pass- 
ing Kariyasu,  the  fertile  plain 
is  reached,  and  this  portion 
of  the  journey  to  Yonezawa 
can  be  accomplished  in  2^  hrs. 
Yonezawa  {Inns,  Akane-ya, 
Takahashi;  foreign  restt.,Kato), 
formerly  the  castle-town  of  the 
great  Uesugi  family,  is  situated 
near  the  S.E.  extremity  of  a 
rich  and  fertile  plain,  sur- 
rounded by  lofty  mountains 
and  watered  by  the  Matsukawa 
and  several  tributary  streams 
that  form  the  upper  waters  of 
the  Mogami-gawa.  The  town 
itself,  though  large,  has  not 
;a  striking  appearance.  The 
houses  are  thatched,  and  the 


streets  mostly  narrow,  rongli^ 
and  neglected. 

Unlike  their  brethren  in  other 
parts  of  Japan,  the  old  mmnrai  aie 
here  the  .wealthiest  portion  of  the 
'  population,  retaining  in  their  hands 
the  bulk  of  the  silk  produced  in  the 
neighbourhood.  This  state  of  affairs 
is  said  to  arise  from  the  fact  that 
when  Uesugi  was  deprived,  as  » 
punishment,  of  a  large  part  of  his 
fief  by  the  government  of  the  day,  his 
retainers  had  to  eke  out  their  liveli- 
hood by  their  own  industry,  and  the 
habits  thus  inculcated  stood  them 
in  good  stead  when  the  revolution  of 
1 8€W  swept  over  the  land,  and  deprived 
them  of  their  class  privileges. 

The  castle  has  been  razed  to 
the  ground;  but  the  temple 
dedicated  to  Uesugi  Kenshin, 
an  ancestor  of  the  family  and 
a  mighty  warrior  of  the  16th 
century,  still  remains,  and  an 
anniial  festival  is  held  there 
on  the  13th  of  the  3rd  month, 
old  calendar.  Close  by  are 
situated  the  imposing-looking 
local  government  of&ces. 

Bandm-san  may  be  reached 
in  1  day  from  Yonezawa  viit 
Hibara,  at  the  head  of  the  lake 
formed  after  the  last  eruption 
of  that  volcano.  Boats  are 
available  across  the  lake  to 
the  foot  of  the  mountain, 
whence  the  traveller  may  walk 
over  the  scene  of  the  eruption, 
and  down  to  Tonokuchi  on  the 
shores  of  Lake  Inawashiro  on 
the  evening  of  the  second  day. 
Thence  by  steamer  to  the 
hamlet  of  Yamagata  on  the 
lake,  by  road  to  Motomiya,  and 
by  rail  to  Toky5  on  the  third 
day,  making  a  most  interesting 
excursion.] 

From  Knori  {Inn,  Nishi-ya),  the^ 
silver  mines  at  Handa  may  be 
reached  in  1  hr.  The  hot-springs 
of  lixdka  are  also  best  reached  from 
this  station.  The  railway  now 
traverses  the  most  picturesque 
portion  of  the  route,  and  passing 
by  the  important  town  of 

Shiraisni   (Inn    by    Akajima), 


Sendau 


195 


affords  a  constant  change  of  moun- 
tain scenery  until 

Iwannma  is  reached,  whence  it 
proceeds  to  Sendai  through  level 
country. 

Sendai  {Inns,  Harikyu,  Shimoda, 
Kikuchi;  also  the  clubs  Yushu-kwan 
and  Mutsu-kwan,  the  latter  near  the 
railway  station,  attached  to  both  of 
which  are  public  restaurants  where 
European  food  can  be  obtained), 
capitel  of  the  province  of  Eikuzen 
and  of  the  prefecture  of  Miyagi,  is 
situated  on  the  1.  bank  of  the  Hiro- 
se-gawa,  and  was  formerly  the 
castle-town  of  Date  Mutsu-no-Kami, 
the  greatest  of  the  northern  Dai- 
myos.  The  castle,  a  fine  natural 
stronghold  lying  on  the  r.  bank  of 
the  river,  was  partially  destroyed 
during  the  civil  war  of  1868.  It 
is  now  used  as  barracks  for  the 
garrison.  The  town  is  noted  for 
its  manufacture  of  ornamental  ar- 
ticles, such  as  trays,  etc.,  made 
of  fossil-wood  (jindai-sugi)  found 
in  a  hill  near  the  town ;  also  for  a 
kind  of  cloth  called  shifu  ori,  made 
of  silk  and  paper  and  suitable  for 
summer  use.  Foreign  buildings 
are  tolerably  numerous,  amongst 
the  principal  being  the  Grovern- 
ment  schools  which  stand  on  a 
large  open  space  to  the  E.  of  the 
town,  and  the  Post  and  Telegraph 
Office  in  the  main  street.  The 
small  Public  Garden  commands  a 
good  view  toward  the  castle  and 
the  mountain-ranges  beyond.  For- 
merly a  number  of  valuable  old 
lacquer  and  other  relics  belonging 
to  the  ex-Prince  of  Sendai,  as  well 
as  the  presents  given  by  the  Pope 
to  the  mission  headed  by  Hashi- 
kura  Rokuemon,  who  was  sent  to 
Borne  in  1615  by  Date  Masamune, 
were  preserved  in  the  town ;  but 
they  have  lately  been  dispersed  to 
various  parts  of  the  Empire.  Some 
of  these  interesting  relics  are  to 
be  seen  in  the  Miiseum  at  Ueno  in 
Tdky6  (p.  82).  The  convict-prison 
of  Sendai  is  one  of  the  largest  in 
Japan.  Outside  Sendai,  at  Aramaki 


on  the  N.,  are  a  number  of  potteries 
where  coarse  pans  and  jars  are 
made. 

Though  ordinarily  treated  as  a 
mere  place  of  rest  by  the  traveller 
en  route  to  Matsushima  and  the 
North,  a  few  hours  may  profitably 
be  spent  at  Sendai  in  visiting 
the  temple  of  Zuihdden,  where 
lie  the  ashes  of  Date  Masamune, 
and  afterwards  proceeding  to 
Atago-san,  from  which  a  lovely 
view  of  the  surrounding  coun- 
try is  obtained.  The  temple 
stands  on  Zuiho-san,  a  part  of 
the  old  castle  grounds,  and  is 
approached  by  an  avenue  of  lofty 
cedars.  Just  beyond  the  first  torii 
is  a  fine  large  stone  tablet,  erected 
to  the  memory  of  142  Sendai  men 
who  fell  in  the  Satsuma  Rebellion. 
The  temple  is  then  reached  by  a 
flight  of  steps.  The  sixteen-petalled 
chrysanthemum  (a  crest  on  the 
outer  gate  retained  by  special  per- 
mission of  the  Mikado),  and  the 
fine  bronze  cistern  close  by,  are 
worth  inspection.  The  haiden  is 
of  black  lacquer  with  coloured 
cornices.  The  kara-nion  gate  has 
some  good  carvings  of  tigers  and 
dragons ;  but  they  are  inferior  to 
those  on  the  Okvrno-in,  or  inner 
temple,  where  ,the  i^rojecting 
rafters  take  the  shape  of  carvings 
of  mythological  monsters.  Within. 
is  the  tomb,  having  upon  it  a 
seated  statue  of  Date  Masamune. 
On  each  side  of  the  Okvr-no-in  stand 
stone  monuments  to  the  memory 
of  twenty  faithful  retainers  who, 
when  their  lord  died,  sacrificed 
their  own  lives  in  order  to  foUow 
him  to  the  land  of  shades.  The 
pla<5e  is  surrounded  by  lofty  crypto* 
merias,  and  resembles,  but  on  a 
much  less  magnificent  scale,  the 
site  of  leyasu's  tomb  at  Nikko. 
The  monument  close  by,  erected 
by  Date  Masamoto,  records  the  loss 
of  a  thousand  men  of  Sendai  in 
the  war  of  the  Eestoration. 

A  path  leads  down  1.  through, 
the  valley,  and  then  up  to  the 


196 


Boute  24. — Nortliem  Bailwmj  S  Oshit  Kaido, 


ridge  called  Atago-san,  facing  the 
town.  The  view  from  the  tea- 
sheds  on  the  top  is  exceptionally 
beautiful.  The  river  winds  round 
the  foot  of  the  hill,  the  town 
spreads  out  in  front  embedded  in  a 
mass  of  foliage,  the  mountains  lie 
behind,  while  to  the  r.  is  a  broken 
country  consisting  of  uplands 
dotted  with  clumps  of  trees,  and  an 
open  plain  beyond  extending  to  the 
sea.  The  summit  of  the  sacred 
isle  of  Kinkwa-zan  is  also  occasion- 
ally visible.  Th»-  path  descends  to 
the  river,  which  is  crossed  on  a  long 
bridge  of  planks.  There  are  various 
other  minor  places  of  interest  in 
Sendai  and  its  immediate  vicinity. 
Diverging  considerably  to  the  E., 
the  railway  route  passes  through 
a  fertile  stretch  of  country,  with 
little  to  arrest  the  traveller's  at- 
tention. 

Matsnshima  takes  its  name  from 
the  well-known  vill.  on  the  shores 
of  the  Bay  of  Sendai,  1  ri  distant. 
For  a  description  of  the  beauties  of 
this  celebrated  spot,  see  Boute  30. 

From  Kogota,  carriages  run  to 
WaJcuya,  1^  ri,  and  to  Furukawa  on 
the  Oshu  Kaido,  2  ri. 

[Waknya  is  of  some  historical  intereRt, 
as  having  been  in  the  possession  of 
Date  Aki,  who  lost  his  life  in  the 
cause  of  Tsunamuue,  third  Prince  of 
Sendai  under  the  Tokugawa  Sho- 
g^ns,  and  whose  story  forms  the 
subject  of  the  popular  drama  entitled 
Sendai  Hagi.  Tadamnne,  the  second 
Prince,  hail  an  illegitimate  son.known 
as  Hyobu  Shoytl,  who,  discontented 
with  his  lot  and  envious  of  the  great 
Sendai  estates  falling  to  another, 
secured  the  aid  of  Harada  Kai,  chief 
controller  of  the  Prince  of  Sendai*  s 
afiFairs  in  Yedo,  in  a  plot  to  ruin 
Tsunamune.  The  young  prince  was 
then  living  in  Yedo,  and  Hyobu's 
object  was  to  leeul  him  into  such  a 
career  of  dissipation  as  would  end  in 
his  fall.  In  this  the  plotters  partially 
succeeded.  Tsunamune  retiqmedto 
Sendai  from  the  capital,  taking  the 
fomous  courtesan  Takao  with  him  as 
his  mistress,  an  act  in  itself ,  if  known 
to  the  Shogun,  sufficient  to  cause 
bis  effacement  from  the  roll  of  Dai- 
myos.  At  this  stage  his  faithful 
adherent  Date  Aki  and  others  inter- 
posea,   and  on  the  plea  of  illnesa 


got  the  Sh9gun  to  consent  to  their 
lord's  retirement  and  to  the  appoint* 
ment  of  his  son  Kamechiyo,  a  child 
but  seven  years  old.  Through  the  in- 
fluence, however,  of  Sakai  TJta-no- 
Kami,  prime  minister  of  the  Shogun, 
whose  daughter  had  married  Hyobu's- 
son,  Hyobu  himself  was  appointed 
guardian   of    Kamechiyo.     Several 
attempts  were  made  by  both  Hyobu 
and  Harada  to  get  rid  of  the  young^ 
prince  by  poison,  all  of  which  failed 
through     the     devotion     ofi    Aki's- 
daughter,  whom  he  had  left  as  gov- 
erness   for  the    boy.     Eventually, 
armed   with    ample    proof  against 
the  conspiititorB,  Aki  laid  the  case 
before  the  ShSgun  at  Yedo.    Uta-no- 
Kami  undertook  to  defend  his  son- 
in-law,  while  Itakura,  another  noted 
minister,  espoused  Aki's  cause,  and 
after  a  lengthy  trial    Hyobu    and 
Harada  were  found  guilty.    But  a 
petition  for  a  new  trial  was  granted, 
and  it  was  in  the  course  of  this  trial 
at  the   prime  minister's  residence, 
that    Harada  stole  upon   Aki   and 
slew  him  on  the  spot.    Prevented  iu 
a  further  attempt  to  murder  Itakunv 
also,  he  killed  himself.  This  occurred 
in  1671.] 

Ichinoseki,  also  called  fwai 
(Inris,  Kumagaya  Seibei,  Tama* 
moto-ya),  a  town  consisting  chiefly 
of  one  long  street  lying  in  a  fin© 
valley  on  the  banks  of  the  Iwai- 
gawa,  was  formerly  the  seat  of  a 
Daimyo  named  Tamura.  At  Ichino- 
seki the  railway  strikes  the  valley 
of  the  Kitakami-gawa,  which  it 
follows  up  past  Morioka. 

This  important  river  rises  at  the  vill. 
of  MidO  on  the  northern  frontier  of  the 
province,  and  has  a  course  of  about  175 
m.  dlie  S.  to  Kofunakoshi,  where  it 
divides  into  two  branches,  one  flowing  8. 
into  the  Bay  of  Sendai  at  Ishinomaki,  the 
other  into  the  Pacific  Ocean.  It  has 
numerous  affluents,  and  affords  ready 
means  of  transport  for  the  produce  of 
the  largo  extent  of  country  drained  by 
it.  Rice,  wheat,  beans,  and  hemp  are 
generally  cultivated  in  the  district. 
Trout  are  plentiful  in  the  rivers  of  this 
part  of  Japan. 

[From  the  port  of  Eozenji  (no 
inns),  about  2^  m.  from  Ichino- 
seki by  a  good  jinrikisha  road, 
there  is  a  line  of  river  steamers 
running  daily  to  Ishinomaki 
and  Shiogama.  The  steamer 
starts  at  daylight,  reaching 
Ishinomaki  about  noon.  After 
a  short  stoppage^   it  aacenda 


The  Kitahami-gaiva.     Chusmiji. 


197 


tlie  river  again  to  enter  the 
Nobiru  canal,  and  then  pass- 
ing through  the  Matsushima 
archipelago;  reaches  Shiogama 
about  4  P.M.  Delays,  however, 
are  frequent,  owing  to  the 
numerous  stoppages  made  en 
route  to  take  in  carsjo.  The 
nver  scenery  is  very  pretty  in 
places,  but  the  steamers  are 
small  and  uncomfortable.  Sta- 
tions from  which  large  square 
nets  are  dropped  into  the  river 
by  levers,  are  seen  on  the  per- 
pendicular bluffs.  The  slate- 
quarries  for  which  Ishinomaki 
is  noted,  are  passed  on  the 
1.  before  reaching  the  town.] 

At  a  distance  of  2.^  ri  from  Ichi- 
noseki  is   situated  the   far-famed 
monastery   of  Chusonjiy    in    which 
many  interesting  relics  of  Yoshi- 
tsune  and   Benkei   are  preserved. 
Jinrikishas  may  be  taken  to  the 
tea-house  at  the  foot  of  the  hill  on 
which  the  temples  stand.  The  road 
from  Ichinoseki  follows  an  excel- 
lent portion  of  the  old  highway ; 
and  shortly  after  the  railway  line 
has  been  crossed,  the  approach  to 
Chtisonji  —  a   lengthy    avenue    of 
grand   cryptomerias  —  is   reached. 
No  attempt  should  be  made  to  go 
further   except  on    foot;    it    was 
incumbent    in    old    days    on    the 
Mikado's  envoy  himself  to  alight 
here,    even     if     he    were  merely 
passing  by  the  sacred  hill.     Per- 
mission   can  readily  be    obtained 
to  inspect  the  treasures,  on  applica- 
tion   at    the    Local     Government 
(Mice  {Gun  Yakusho)  in  Ichinoseki. 
The  buildings  are  closed  as  places 
of  worship,  being  now  simply  re- 
tained    as     store-rooms     for    the 
temple  treasures ;  but  they  are  still 
in  the  care  of  the  Buddhist  priests, 
who  will  conduct  visitors  around.  A 
fee  should  be  offered  to  onfe  of  the 
priests  on  leaving,  ostensibly  for 
the  maintenance  of  the  buildings, 
which  indeed  sadly  need  repair. 

The  monastery  was  foanded  by  Jikaka 
Baishi  in  the  9th  centuiy,  and  attained 


its  greatest  prosperity  under  the  patron- 
age of  Fujiwara  Kiyohira.  The  buildings 
once  numbered  forty  in  all,  with  residences 
for  300  priests. 

A  short  distance  up  the  avenue, 
a  fine  and  extensive  view  of  the 
valley    of    the    Kitakami-gawa  is 
obtained.     The  principal  buildings 
shown  are  the  Jizo-do,  Konjiki-do, 
Issaikyo-do,   and    Benzaiten-do.     All 
are  plain  wooden  structures,    de- 
void of  colour  or  ornament  except 
some  carvings  and  flower-paintings 
on  the  Jiz6-d6.     This  is  the  first 
building  met  with  on  tUe  1.  of  the 
avenue.      It    contains    figures    of 
Yoshitsune  and  Benkei,  said  to  be 
their    own    handiwork.       In    the 
Issaikyo-do    are    three    fine    sets 
of  the   Buddhist  scriptures.     But 
the    most  interesting  building  is 
the  Konjiki-do,  once  covered  with 
a  coating  of  gold  that  gave  it  tjie 
name   of   Hikaru-do,  or  Glittering 
Hall,  by  which  it  is  most  commonly 
known ;    but  only  faint  traces  of 
the  gold  are  now  discernible.     The 
main    pillars    are   lacquered,   and 
inlaid  with   shells    broiight  from 
Rome  by  the  mission  sent  there  in 
1615  by    Date  Masamime.     Here 
as  elsewhere,   however,  time  and 
neglect     have     left    their    mark. 
Among  the  treasures  carefully  pre- 
served, are  two  paintings  of  Chii- 
sonji  by  Kanaoka  (A.D.  859-876), 
the  first  great  Japanese  painter ; 
also  paintings  of  Yoshitsune  and 
Benkei  said  to  be  by  themselves ; — 
good,  bold  pieces  of  colouring.   The 
relics  here  include  some  fine  images 
of  the  chief  deities  worshipped  by 
the  Tendai  sect.  Benkei's  sword  and 
other  possessions  may  be  seen  in 
the  Benzaiten-do.    Altogether,  the 
collection  of  objects  of  both  artistic 
and  historic   interest  is  rich  and 
varied,  and  well  merits  inspection. 
Instead  of    returning  to    Ichino- 
seki, the  traveller  may  resume  his 
journey  northwards  by  train  at 

Mneznirn  (Inn,  Sato-ya),  1  ri  24 
eho  beyond  Chusonji.  Just  before 
reaching    this    station,    the    Ko- 


198 


Boiite  24, — Northern  Railway  &  Oshu  Kaido, 


romogawa  is  crossed,  a  river  cele- 
brated as  the  scene  of  the  battle 
that  ended  Yoshitsune's  career. 
Near 

Miziisawa  is  the  site  of  the 
ancient  fortress  (Chinjufu)  of  the 
Governors-Greneral  of  Oshu,  a  name 
which  in  early  times  included  all 
N.E.  Japan. 

KiirosaiW2ijiri  (Inn  by  Nomura 
Nisuke).  Small  steamers  some- 
times ascend  the  Kitakami-gawa  as 
far  as  this  place.  Here,  too,  the 
most  picturesque  road  to  Akita 
diverges  1.  over  the  mountains  (see 
p.  203). 

'  Haiiamaki  (Inn  by  Takase  Toku- 
taro).  The  railway  station  is  about 
1  m.  from  the  town.  For  the 
road  from  this  place  to  Kamaishi 
on  the  E.  coast,  see  p.  215. 
About  9  m.  from  Hanamaki  up  the  ^ 
valley  of  the^^Toyosawa,  lie  the  hot- 
springs  of  Osawa,  where  the  ac- 
commodation is  better  than  at  any 
of  the  other  springs  in  the  pre- 
fecture. The  water  is  strongly 
impregnated  with  alum.  Jinriki- 
shas  are  available  all  the  way. 
The  most  prominent  mountains 
seen  on  the  E.  are  Rokka-uchi- 
yama  and  Sochiho-san,  locally 
known  as  Hayachine-yama ;  on  the 
W.,  Nansho-zan  and  Ganju-san, 
also  called  Iwate-yama. 

lliziime  (Inn  by  Uchikawa). 
The  railway  keeps  on  the  r. 
bank  of  the  Kitakami-gawa,  and 
crosses  the  river  Shizuku-ishi  at 
its  junction  with  the  Kitakami 
before  entering 

Morioka  (Inns,  *  Mutsu-kwan, 
European  food;  Seifii-kwan,  at  the 
station;  *Murata-ya,  Naruse),  the 
capital  of  the  prefecture  of  Iwate, 
and  formerly  the  castle-town  of  the 
Daimyo  of  Nambu.  The  town  is 
celebrated  for  its  kettles,  spun-silk 
goods,  fruit,  and  vegetables.  _  The 
kettles  differ  from  those  of  Osaka 
and  Kyoto  in  being  a  rusty  red 
colour,  and  in  the  annealing  to 
which  they  are  subjected.  The  ore 
from  which  they  are  made  comes 


from  near  the  E.  coast,  and  has  & 
high  reputation.  American  apples 
are  now  extensively  grown ;  also 
quinces,  cabbages,  and  turnips. 
Game  is  abundant  in  winter. 
Among  the  other  productions  of 
Morioka,  are  a  confection  made  of 
the  root  of  the  dog-tooth  violet 
(Erythronium)  called  kataJcuri,  and 
syda-no-yuki  (contracted  from. 
Sumida-no-yuki),  somewhat  resem- 
bling Iceland  moss  paste. 

About  1  H  from  the  town,  a  grove  of 
cryptomerias  is  seen  on  a  bluff  overhang- 
inir  the  river.  Here  it  was  that  the  rebel 
Alje-no-Sadatd  had  his  castle,  which,  after 
a  stubborn  resistance,  was  overthrown 
by  Minamoto  Yoshiie,  the  doughty  war- 
rior also  known  to  fame  as  Hachiman 
Taro,  that  is,  the  flrst-bom  of  the 
God  of  War.  Long  afterwards — so  the 
story  goes— when  Nambu  wished  to 
l)uild  his  castle  on  the  same  spot,  the 
Shosrun's  Government,  remembering  the 
difficulty  formerly  experienced  in  over- 
coming the  rebel  Abe,  refused  to  grant 
permission,  so  that  the  fortress  was  erected 
on  the  hill  which  ^ftei'ward3  became  the 
centre  of  Morioka. 

Under  the  hiUs  to  the  E.  of  the 
town  stand  a  number  of  temples. 
In  the  garden  of  one  of  these,  called 
Ryukokuji,  is  seen  a  peculiar  rush 
called  the  kataha  no  yoshi,  the 
leaves  of  which  grow  on  only  one 
side  of  the  stem.  Tradition  avers 
that  this  is  owing  to  Toshitsune 
having  stripped  off  half  the  leaves 
with  a  stroke  of  his  sword. 

[Ganju-san,  also  called  Iwate-san 
(6,800  ft.),  can  be  ascended 
from  Morioka  by  starting  early 
in  a  jinrikisha  with  two  men, 
and  going  to  DaishaJcu,  a 
hamlet  on  the  lower  slopes  of 
the  mountain,  where  are  good 
sulphur  baths,  the  water  for 
which  is  brought  down  in 
pipes  from  Amihari,  higher  up 
the  valley.  The  jinrikisha 
should  be  left  at  the  hamlet 
for  the  return  joiumey.  Dai- 
shaku,  which  is  about  7  ri  from 
Morioka,  can  be  reached  in 
time  for  lunch,  and  the  after- 
noon pleasantly  employed  in  a 
dimb    to    the  source  of    the 


Ascent  of  Ganjxt-san, 


199 


hot-springs  at  Amihari,  up  a 
^ood  path  of  less  than  2  m. 
The  baths  ai*e  mere  open 
tanks,  though  there  are  huts 
where  some  of  the  country 
people  put  up  when  they  come 
for  the  cure.  From  here  a 
short  but  steep  climb  takes 
one  to  the  dividing  ridge  be- 
tween the  i)refectures  of  Iwate 
and  Akita,  whence  a  good 
view  may  be  obtained  of  the 
mountains  towards  Akita. 

It  is  a  hard  day's  climb  from 
Daishaku  to  the  top  and  back, 
but  the  traveller  has  two 
nights'rest,  and  the  hot  sulphur 
baths  to  refresh  his  weary  limbs. 

The  ascent  of  the  mountain 
is  easy  for  the  first  few  miles 
•over  the  lower  part ;  but  grad- 
ually it  begins  to  zigzag  up 
through  and  over  the  roots  of 
trees.  Sometimes  it  follows  the 
ridge  of  a  spur,  and  then  de- 
scends to  cross  a  valley,  in  one 
place  coming  out  on  a  solfatara, 
where  the  hot  water  boils  up 
and  mingles  with  a  cold  stream 
running  down  from  the  moun- 
tain. The  structure  of  the 
mountain  may  be  compared  to 
three  joints  of  a  telescope, 
there  being  a  lower  thick  cone, 
then  a  rim  or  crater,  then  a 
«econ4  cone  followed  by  a 
second  rim  OV  crater,  and 
finally  a  third  cone.  On  ren<ih- 
ing  the  outside  of  the  first 
•crater,  a  slight  detour  brings 
one  to  a  ridge  separating  two 
httle  lakes  which  can  be  seen 
from  the  top.  From  this  spot 
there  is  another  steep  climb  to 
the  rim  of  the  second  crater, 
on  the  floor  of  which  stands 
a  hut  intended  to  ticcommo- 
<late  pilgrims.  The  last  part 
of  the  ascent  from  here  is  up  a 
slope  of  fine  lapilli,  inclined 
at  an  angle  of  27°.  The  top 
«of  the  mountain  is  really  the 
knife-like  edge  of  another 
•crater,  half  a  mile  in  diame- 


ter, in  whose  centre  rises  a 
small  cone  which  is  breached  on 
its  S.E.  side.  Strewn  along  the 
edge,  lie  numerous  offerings  to 
the  mountain  god,  which  have 
been  brought  up  by  pilgrims — 
principally  pieces  of  sheet-iron, 
shaped  like  spear-heads,  vary- 
ing in  length  from  2  or  3  in. 
to  2  or  3  ft.  The  interior  of 
the  cone  may  be  entered  by 
climbing  over  the  breach. 
Ganju-san,  from  its  regular 
logarithmic  curves,  is  a  beauti- 
ful object  to  all  those  travel- 
ling up  or  down  the  valley  of 
the  Kitakami-gawa. 

On  returning,  it  is  better 
to  take  the  direct  road  towards 
the  vill.  of  Shizuku-ishi,  cross- 
ing the  ridge  of  the  outside 
crater  just  behind  the  pilgrims* 
hut,  and  descending  a  long^ 
rocky  spur.  This  is  an  easier 
way,  as  there  is  no  under- 
growth to  force  one's  way 
through ;  but  on  reaching  the 
foot  of  the  mountain,  it  is  a 
long  trudge  across  the  grassy 
l)lain  before  one  begins  to  as- 
cend the  zigzag  path  to  the 
inn  at  Daishaku. 

The  return  from  Daishaku 
can  be  varied  by  crossings 
the  Shizuku-ishi  river  at  the 
ferry,  and  going  to  the  hot- 
springs  of  Tsunagi,  where 
the  baths  are  pleasant  though 
of  no  particular  medicinal 
value.  By  following  a  short 
way  further  up  the  valley, 
the  baths  of  Oshuku  (Uguisu- 
no-yado)  are  reached.  From 
here  the  road  to  Morioka,  13 
m.,  is  along  the  r.  bank  of  the 
Shizuku-ishi  river,  and  enters 
the  city  by  the  Meiji-bashi. 
Those  pressed  for  time  can 
make  the  ascent  most  quickly 
from  Yanagizawa-mura  about 
4  ri  from  Morioka,  starting  on 
horses  in  the  afternoon.  The 
accommodation  at  the  little 
inn  is  miserable ;  but  by  enga- 


200 


Boute  24, — Northern  ruiilivay  cd  Oshii  Kaiild. 


ging  guides  and  using  torches, 
the  ascent  can  be  begun  about 
midnight  and  the  top  reached 
at  daylight,  distance  only  2  ri 
23  cho.  To  make  up  for  the 
comparative  shortness  of  the 
distance,  the  climb  is  so  steep 
in  some  places  that  chains  are 
fastened  in  the  rocks  to  help 
the  pilgrims.] 

The  Northern  Eailway  is  about 
to  be  completed  to  Aomori.  At 
present,  from  Morioka  onwards, 
travellers jnust  follow  the  old  high 
TOtid  the  Oshu  Kaido,  which  partly 
adjoins  the  railway  track,  and  is 
practicable  for  jinrikishas.  Omni- 
buses also  ply  over  a  portion  of 
it, — on  wheels  during  the  summer, 
and  on  runners  during  the  long 
season  of  snow.  They  ply  regularly 
between  Morioka  and  Numakanai, 
irregularly  between  Niimakunai 
and  San-no-he,  fairly  regularly  be- 
tween San-no-he  and  Noheji,  and 
regularly  from  the  latter  place  to 
Aomori.  Each  cho  in  the  distances 
along  the  road  in  the  prefectures 
of  Iwate  and  Miyagi  is  regularly 
marked, — a  great  convenience  to 
those  acquainted  with  the  Japanese 
numerals.     The  following  is  the 

Itinerai'y, 

MOEIOKA  to :—  Bi.  Cho.    M, 

Shibutami 4    27  111 

Numakunai    3     32       9^ 

Kotsunagi 4    34  12 

Ichi-no-he 3       4       7-1 

Pukuoka 1     31      4^ 

Kindaichi  13      2^ 

San-no-he  3    —      7i 

Asamizu 3     18      8a 

Oo-no-he     1     20       3| 

Dempoji 1     28      U 

Pujishima.'. 33       2^ 

Sambongi  17      3 

Shichi-no-he 2     28       6| 

Noheji    5       8  12| 

Kominato  4      9  IO2 

Nonai 4    20  Hi 

AOMOEI 2      3      5 

Total  50    17  1231^ 


Leaving  the  suburbs  of  Morioka^ 
the  road  crosses  the  Kitakami-gawa 
and  follows  up  the  r.  bank  of  the 
river.  About  1  m.  out  of  the  town,, 
it  enters  a  grove  which  extends 
for  over  2  m.  In  the  autumn^ 
the  Morioka  people  picnic  here,  to- 
gather  a  delicious  species  of  mush- 
room called  hatsu-take. 

After  passing  the  junction  of  tlie^ 
road  to  Hirosaki  at  a  distance  of  3 
ri  6  cho  from  Morioka,  the  main 
road  to  Aomori  turns  to  the  r., 
still  ascending,  but  within  a  mil© 
crosses  the  crest  and  gradually 
descends  towards  Shibutami,  con- 
tinuing around  the  base  of  Ganju- 
san.  The  best  view  of  the  mount-ain 
is   obtained  from  near_ 

Shibutami  ( Inn,  Omura-ya ), 
where  the  shape  appears  perfectly 
symmetrical.  The  picturesque  cone 
of  Hiine-ga-take  at  the  end  of  the 
range  of  hills  enclosing  Morioka- 
on  the  r.,  which  has  been  con- 
spicuous for  so  many  miles,  rise& 
from  behind  Shibutami.  The  val- 
ley of  the  Kitakami-gawa  becomes 
more  confined;  and  the  stream, 
which  up  to  Morioka  was  navigable- 
for  boats  of  50  kuJcu  burthen,  is 
now  obstructed  by  rocks  and. 
boulders.  Its  principal  soiu'ce  is 
crossed  just  before  reaching 

Niimnkiiiini  (Inn  by  Kojima  To- 
mi).  This  is  the  last  viU.  in  tlie 
valley.  The  terraces  marking  the 
ancient  position  of  the  river-bed 
deserve  notice.  After  passing  the 
turning  on  the  r.  which  leads 
to  Hachi-no-he,  the  road  lies  be- 
tween wooded  hills,  and  beyond  th& 
temple  of  Kwannon  ascends  the 
water-shed,  about  2,000  ft.  above 
the  sea.  At  the  foot  of  a  large 
cryptomeria  near  this  temple,  is  a 
clear  crystal  spring  which  is  ac- 
cepted as  the  source  of  the  iTita- 
kami-gawa.  At  the  top  is  the 
boundary  between  the  provinces  of 
Eikuchii  and  Bikuoku.  The  road 
now  lies  over  a  grassy  tract,  and 
soon  after  passing  the  hamlet  of 
Nakayama,  strikes    the    head    of 


North  Section  of  the  Oshu  Kaido. 


201 


a  deep  valley  and  descends  to 
Ketsunagi  (Inn  by  Sakuyama). 
Throuf^h  this  valley  flows  the 
Itfabechi-gawa,  which  after  a  course 
of  tes  m.  discharges  itself  into  the 
sea  at  Hachi-no-he.  This  river  will 
be  crossed  twelve  times  by  the 
railway  on  its  way  to  Hachi-no-he. 
Lacquer-trees  line  the  roadside, 
and  everywhere  dot  the  fields. 

I<*lli-no-lie  (Inn  by  Nishimura) 
lie*  between  steep  woodedhills.  The 
road  now  crosses  to  the  r.  bank  of 
the  river,  and  rises  to  a  consider- 
able height  to  avoid  a  bend  in  the 
valley.  The  scenery  all  the  way 
to  Kindaichi  is  very  picturesque. 
At  Fuhuoka  (Inn  by  Murai),  the 
valley  widens  out.  The  road  partly 
follows  it,  but  in  two  places  ascends 
the  mountains  on  the  1.  bank  to  a 
<ionsiderable  elevation,  descending 
at  the  back  of 

San-llO-lie  (Juris  by  Tago,  Asai) 
to  a  tributary  stream  flowing  down 
■a  long  valley  from  the  W.  A  high 
hill  covered  with  cryptomerias 
lies  between  this  and  the  main 
river.  On  the  r.  bank  of  the  latter 
rises  the  peak  of  Nakui-dake,  visi- 
ble from  a  long  distance  N.  The 
•ascent  of  this  conspicuous  hill  is 
recommended.  It  can  be  very 
easily  climbed,  and  it  offers  a 
remarkable  view  of  the  sui'round- 
ing  country  and  of  the  main  chain, 
with  Herai-dake,  Akakura,  etc. 
Shortly  after  leaving  San-no-he,  the 
road  to  Hachi-no-he  branches  off  to 
the  r.,  and  the  main  road,  ascend- 
ing the  mountains  by  a  steep 
Jicchvity,  runs  along  an  elevated 
wooded  ridge.  This  commands 
«n  extensive  view,  embracing  the 
mountains  near  Aomori,  the  whole 
E.  pai-t  of  Aomori  Bay,  Osore-zan 
on  its  N.  side,  and  the  narrow 
isthmus  between  the  Bay  and  the 
Pacific  Ocean.  Asamizu  (Inn  by 
Tanaka)  lies  in  a  deep  valley.  More 
ridges  are  crossed  before  reaching 
Uo-iio-he  (Inns  by  Xamioka, 
Yuwatari),  a  considerable  place  for 
this  part  of  the  country.    From 


Fujishima,  a  gradjially  rising  plain 
extends  to 

S«aiiiborigi  {Inns  by  Yasuno,  Wa- 
jima),  and  between  the  latter  place 
and  Noheji  on  Aomori  Bay  the 
road  traverses  large  stretches  of 
moorland  and  open  rolling  country, 
extending  to  the  1.  for  6  or  7  miles, 
and  on  the  r.  as  far  as  the  eye  can. 
reach.  In  bad  weather  the  track 
is  deep  in  mire,  the  soil  consisting" 
of  black  mould,  under  which  are 
hiyers  of  clay  and  volcanic  pumice, 
which  in  some  places  come  to  the 
surface.     At 

Shichi-no-he  (Lms,  Minatobe, 
Urushi-do),  on  a  stream  of  the 
same  name,  the  plain  is  again 
reached,  and  after  3  m.  the  road 
crosses  the  Nakagawa  and  the 
Tsubo-kawa. 

Nolioji,  often  written  Nobeehi 
(Inns,  lida-ya,  Yasuda),  is  a  port 
conveniently  situated  at  the  S.E. 
corner  of  Aomori  Bay. 

[A  coast  road  runs  due  N.  from 
Noheji  to  the  hatchet-shaped 
peninsula  of  Yakeyama,  where 
the  summit  of  Eamafuse-zan 
affords  a  delightful  view,  and 
the  solfatara  at  the  little  lake 
on  Osore-zan  offers  much  in- 
terest. The  accommodation  is 
everywhere  poor,  except  at 
Kawa-uchi,  Sai,  and  Obeta.] 

Tliough  the  distance  from  Noheji 
to  Aomori  is  but  15  m.  as  the 
crow  flies,  the  road  is  forced  by  a 
mass  of  mountains  to  make  a  con- 
siderable detour,  which  increases 
the  distance  to  11  ri,  or  nearly  27 
miles.  Leaving  Noheji,  it  foMows 
the  coast  through  insignificant 
fishing  villages  for  a  few  miles  to  a 
cove  called  Shiranai,  then  strikes 
inland  through  Koniinato  (Inn  by 
Terajima),  crosses  over  to  the 
shore  of  Aomori  Bay  proper,  and 
continuing  past  the  hot  springs  of 
Asamv^hi  (Inn  by  Sugawawa),  and 
along  the  rocky  and  picturesque 
coast  to  Nonai,  enters  the  plain  in 
which  lies  Aomori. 


202 


Iloiite  25, — Sendai  to  Yamayata  d'  Yonezaiia, 


Aomori  {Inns  by  *Nakajima 
Masakichi,  Wajima  Heizo),  capital 
-of  the  prefecture  of  the  same  name, 
is  situated  at  the  head  of  Aomori 
Bay  and  at  the  mouth  of  the  small 
river  Arakawa,  which  drains  an 
extensive  plain  shut  in  by  high 
liills.  Its  straight,  wide  streets 
give  it  an  aspect  unusual  in  Japan, 
and  the  shops  are  large  and  well- 
supplied.  Quantities  of  salmon  are 
caught  in  the  bay ;  and  besides 
dried  salmon  and  sharks'  fins,  furs 
from  Yezo  and  lacquer  are  seen  in 
abundance  in  the  shops.  The  lac- 
quer is  of  a  peculiar  variegated  kind, 
called  Kavd-nuri,  Tsugai'u  nuri,  or 
Baka-nuH.  A  considerable  trade 
passes  through  Aomori,  as  it  is  the 
link  connecting  Hakodate  with 
the  province  of  Mutsu  and  the 
district  of  Nambu  in  Eikuchu.  It 
is  also  the  chief  outlet  of  the  large 
migration  of  country  people  who 
annually  cross  over  to  Yezo  in  the 
spring  for  the  fisheries  on  the 
coast  of  that  island,  returning  in 
the  autumn  to  their  homes  on  the 
mainland. 

There  is  constant  steam  com- 
munication between  Aomori  and 
Hakodate,  70  m.  distant,  the 
stealhers  always  sailing  at  night. 


KOUTE  25. 

From  Sendai  to  Yamagata  and 
yonezawa. 

Itineranj. 

SEIJDAI  to ;—  Ri.  Cho.  M. 

Ayako  3  —    7i 

Sakunami 4  —    9f 

Sekiyama 5  34  14^ 

Tendo   3  26    9 

YAMAGATA 3  8    7  J 

Kaminoyama 3  JL8    Sh 

Nakayama 1  33    4f 

Akayu 2  24    6^ 

YONEZAWA 4  4  10 

Total 32  3~7Hi 


This  route  is  two  easy  days" 
journey  by  jinrikisha,  staying  the 
first  night  at  Yamagata.  Sendai 
and  Yamagata  are  also  connected 
by  a  more  direct  but  rougher  road 
over  the  Futakuchi-toge. 

Saknnaiui  {Inn  by  Iwamatsu)^ 
situated  in  a  deep  valley  with  pre- 
cipitous sides,  is  noted  for  its  hot- 
springs.  The  main  road  from  Akita^ 
to  Yamagata  is  joined  at  the  town  of 

Tendd,*  where  it  emerges  on  to  a 
plain  which  narrows  towards  Yama- 
gata. The  views  hereabouts  are  very 
pleasing.  The  most  striking  ob- 
ject in  the  landscape  is  the  summit 
of  Gwassan,  which  rises  behind 
picturesque  lesser  ranges,  and 
whose  slopes  continue,  even  during 
the  hottest  part  of  the  year,  to  be= 
covered  witli  large  patches  of 
snow. 

Yainagata  {Inn,  Goto;  foreign 
restt.]  Shizan-ro),  capital  of  the  pre- 
fecture of  the  same  name,  and 
foiTuerly  the  castle-town  of  Mi- 
zuno  Iziuni-no-Kami,  is  well-situ- 
ated on  a  slight  eminence,  and 
possesses  broad  and  clean  streets 
with  good  shops.  Leaving  the 
highly  cultivated  plain  of  Yama- 
gata, we  enter  some  low  hills,  on 
the  slope  of  one  of  which  stands 

Kaiiiinoyniiia  {Inn,  Kame-ya). 
This  town  contains  several  good 
inns,  many  of  which  are  built  high 
up  the  slope  of  the  hill.  It  alsa 
possesses  hot  mineral  baths,  which,, 
on  account  of  their  efficacy  in  rliou^ 
matism,  attract  visitors  from  con- 
siderable distances.  Kaminoyama 
is  noted  as  being  one  of  the  driest 
places  in  Japan,  and  may  be  re- 
conunended  as  a  health  resorts 
There  are  plenty  of  walks  in  the- 
neighbourhood,  and  picturesque  ex- 
cursions can  be  made  in  many 
directions. 

Akayu  (I>i7i  by  Ishioka  Yozo)  is 
another  place  noted  for  its  hot  sul- 
phur springs ;  but  the  inns  are  apt 
to  be  filled  with  patients,  and  to  be 
too  noisj*  for  the  taste  of  foreign 


Boute  26. — From  Tokyo  to  Akita. 


203 


travellers.       After     crossing    the 
Matsukawa,  and  passing  the  vill. 
of  Nukanome,  we  reach 
Yonezawa  (see  p.  194). 


ROUTE  26. 

Ebom  Tokyo  to    Akita  on    the 
Nobth-West  Coast. 

The  traveller  bound  for  Akita 
has  a  choice  between  several  routes, 
viz. 

1.  By  the  regular  tri- weekly 
steamers  of  the  Nippon  Yuseu 
Ewaisha  from  Yokohama  to  Hako- 
date, in  2^  days,  and  thence  to 
Tsuchizaki,  the  port  of  Akita,  by 
smaller  steamers,  which  run  at 
intervals  of  from  4  to  10  days,  and 
occupy  18  hrs.  in  making  the  pass- 
age. The  distance  from  Tsuchi- 
KsJd  to  Akita  is  1^  ri. 

2.  Kailway  from  Tokyo  (Ueno) 
to  Kurosawa jiri  on  the  Northern 
hne  in  17  hrs.;  thence  by  the 
following  itinerary,  which  is  the 
most  picturesque  land  route. 

Itinerary. 

KUROSAWAJIEI  to  :— 

Bi,  ChO.  M. 

Shitamura   3  18    8.i 

Snginahata 8  31     9^ 

Kawajiri  2  10    51 

Nonojuku 1  30    4^ 

Yokote 5  30  14^ 

AKITA  (by  itine- 
rary given  in  No. 

3  in  next  column)  18  34  46^ 

Total 36      9  88^ 


For  Kurosawajiri  see  p.  198. 
The  first  part  of  the  journey  as 
far  as  Nonojuku  is  rough  and 
mountainous. 

3.  Railway  from  Tokyo  (Ueno) 
to  Sendai,  in  12  hrs.  Thence 
by  road,  the  following  being  the 

Itineii'ary. 

SENDAI  to  —  Ri.  Chd  M.  ' 

Ayako     3  —  7i 

Sakunami 4  —  9| 

Sekiyama  5  34  14a 

Tateoka 3  18  8^ 

Obanazawa    3  20  8$ 

Funagata  3  19  Si 

Shinjo 2  12  5:^ 

Kanayama 3  32  9i 

Nozoki    4  11  lOA 

Innai  3  —  71 

Yuzawa 4  9  10^ 

Yokote    4  30  llf 

Kakumagawa    ...  3  18  84 

Omagari     1  25  4^ 

Hanatate   22  l<i 

Jinguji   1  '2  2a 

Kita  Maruoka  . . .  27  If 

Kariwano  1  25  4} 

Yodogawa 2  11  5| 

Wada 3  12  Sk 

AKITA  4  —  9t 

Total  65      3  158^ 


The  road  is  practicable  for  jin- 
rikishas  throughout.  As  far  as 
Sekiyama,  this  route  coincides  with 
the  first  part  of  Route  25. 

At  Tatookn  (Inn,  Ise-ya),  the 
main  road  from  Yamagata  to  Akita 
is  joined.  Not  far  fl*om  Tateoka  is 
Yamadera,  with  its  old  temples  and 
fine  landscapes. 

Shiujo  (Inn  by  Ito  Yunosuke),  a 
quiet  place,  has  a  large  trade  in 
rice,  silk,  and  hemp,  but  shows 
little  outward  evidence  of  prospe- 
rity. The  style  of  buildings  in  this 
district  and  in  those  further  N. 
differs  entirely  from  that  met  with 
in  central   and  southern    Japan. 


204 


Route  27 » — Sendai  to  Tstim-ga-oha  d  Aldta, 


Nearly  all  the  houses  are  great 
oblong  barns  turned  end- wise  to 
the-  road,  and  are  built  with  heavy 
beams  and  walls  of  lath  and 
brown  mud  mixed  with  chopped 
straw.  Rain-doors  {ania-do),  with 
a  few  paper  windows  at  the  top, 
replace  the  ordinary  sliding 
screens  ;  and  as  there  are  no  ceil- 
ings to  the  rooms,  the  interior  pre- 
sents a  very  uninviting  appearance. 
Beyond  Shinjo  the  road  crosses 
a  steap  ridge  into  a  singular  basin, 
partly  surrounded  loy  thickly 
wooded  pyramidal  hills,  at* the  foot 
of  which  lies  the  vill.  of  Kaiia- 
yania.  The  next  stage  of  the 
journey  is  through  wild  and  pic- 
turesque scenery.  Leaving  the 
hamlet  of  Nozok<,  the  road  descends 
along  the  head- waters  of  the  Omo- 
no-gawa.     The  approach  to 

Iiinai,  as  well  as  the  road  on  to 
Tuzawa,  is* through  an  avenue  of 
cryptonlerias.  The  silver  mines 
at  Innai  were  once  the  most  pro- 
ductive in  Japan. 

Yokote  (Inn,  Kosaka),  is  a  dirty 
town  with  a  large  trade  in  cottons. 

Oinagr>iri>  (Inn,  Takenouchi).   At 

Jinguji  (Inn,  Hoso-ya),  boats 
may  be  taken  down  the  Omono- 
gawa  to  Akita.  The  current  is 
swift,  though  there  are  no  rapids ; 
and  the  journey  of  42  m.  may  be 
comfortably  accomplished  in  9  hrs. 

Akita  (Inn,  Kobayashi)  is  the 
capital  of  the  prefecture  of  the 
same  name.  This  town,  also  called 
Kubota.,  was  formerly  the  seat  ot  a 
Daimyo  named  Satake.  A  con- 
siderable commerce  is  carried  on 
here^  and  rice  is  exported  in  large 
quantities  to  the  northern  parts  of 
the  Main  Island  and  to  Hakodate. 
The  manufactures  are  striped 
tsumugi,  or  spun-silk  cloth,  and 
white  chijimi. 

4.  A  road  from  Morioka  (19  hrs. 
by  rail  from  Tokyo)  to  Akita,  joins 
that  given  in  No.  3  near  Omagari. 
The  whole  distance  from  Morioka 
to  Akita  is  35  ri  8  cho,  the  itinerary 


as  far  as  Omagari  being  as  fol- 
lows :— 

MORIOKA  to :—        Ri.  Cho.  M. 

Shizuku-ishi  4  10  lOi 

Hashiba 2  21     6^ 

To  the  border  of 

the  Prefecture...  2  12     5| 

Obonai 2  23    6^ 

Kakunotate... 5  11  13 

OMAGARI  .........  4  35  12i 

Total 22       4  54 


EOUTE  27. 

From  Sendai  to  Tsubu-ga-otca, 
Sakata,  Hon  jo,  and  Akita. 
Ascent  op  Hagubo-ban,    Gtvas- 

8AN,  AND  ChOKAI-ZAN. 

Itinerary. 

SENDAI  to:—  Ri,  Cho.  M. 

Shinjo 25  31  63 

Moto-Aikai  2  10  6l 

Furukuchi 2  8  6i 

Kiyokawa .-...  3  12  S^ 

Karigawa 1  12  3^ 

Fujishima 1  34  4f 

TSURU-GA-OKA  2  8  6i 

Back  to  Fujishima  2  8  5^^ 

Niibori 2  26  6f 

SAKATA 1  33  4^ 

Fukura 5  6  12^ 

Shiokoshi 5  14  13^ 

Hirazawa 2  33  7 

HONJO 3  7  7f 

Nakamura 6  —  14j 

Araya 4  25  Hi 

AKITA 1  10  3 

Total 74    25     180|^ 

This  route  has  been  compiled  for 
those  travellers  whose  chief  object 
is  mountain  climbing,  and  who, 
after  completing  their  tour,  will  be 
able  to  take  steamer  for  Hakodate 
either  at  Sakata  or  at  Akita. 

The  road  is  the  same  as  Section 
3  of  Route  26  as  far  as  Shinjo,  where 


Ascent  of  Haguro^  Gucassan  d  Chokai—zan, 


205 


it  diverges  to  the  1.  to  reach 

Moto-Aikai.  Soon  after  passing  . 
this  vill.,  it  arrives  at  a  ferry 
over  the  Mogami-gawa,  one  of  the 
most  important  rivers  of  N.  Japan, 
and  the  scenery  becomes  highly 
picturesque.  The  river,  tliough" 
flowing  between  high  hills,  covered 
partly  with  grass,  partly  with 
splendid  yews  and  cryptomerias,  is 
•quite  placid,  and-  is  studded  with 
primitive  boats  having  brown  mats 
for  sails.  Descending  the  pleasant- 
ly cultivated  valley,  we  rea<;h  KaH- 
gawa,  where  the  main  road  to 
Sakata  joins  in  to  the  r. 

Tsiirii-gii-okai  or  Shonai  (Inn  by 

Tabayashi  Gorobei)  was  formerly 

the  castle-town  of  a  Daimyo  called 

Sakai  Saemon-no-jo.  The  retainers 

of  this  personage  are  remembered 

for  the    sturdy  resistance    which 

they  offered  in  1868  to  the  Mikado's 

troops,   and  for  their  rough,  un- 

eultivated    manners.      There    are 

several  remarkable   waterfalls    in 

the  neighbourhood  of  Tsuru-ga-oka, 

viz.  Shiraiio  no  taki  near  Kiyokawa, 

whose  height  is  estimated  by  the 

Japanese  at  74  ft.  and  its  breadth 

at  24  ft.;   "No-no-tahiy  near  the  foot 

of  Maya-san,  about  100  ft.  high ; 

and  Hitoguhuri  in  the  same  vicinity. 

These  last  two  waterfalls,  tumbling 

over  different  sides  of  the  lame 

steep  ridge,  are  visible  at  the  same 

time,  and  with    some  smaller  falls 

about  20  ft.    in  height,  make    a 

charming  picture. 

[Hagnro-san  and  Gwassan  may 

be  conveniently  vibited  from 
Tsuru-ga-oka.'  Gwassan,  the 
higher  of  the  two,  is  only  6,200 
ft.  above  the  level  of  the  sea ; 
and  it  is  therefore  not  so  mueh 
on  account  of  their  height 
as  of  their  reputation  for 
sanctity,  that  they  are  known 
throughout  the  length  and 
breadth  of  the  land,  and  yearly 
attract  crowds  of  pilgi'ims. 

One  of  the  most  curious  ihin^ 
connected  with  these  mountains  is 
the  mythical  existence  of  a  third, 


called  Ttufotio-tan,  the  three  together 
being  collectively  known  as  San^ 
art/ «,  that  is,  'the  three  mountains.* 
Yudono-san  is  marked  on  almost  all 
Japanese  maps,  posts  point  the  way 
to  it,  pious  ])ilgrims  plan  the  ascent 
of  it,  mention  of  it  Las  even  crept  in 
to  some  of  the  European  guide-books 
to  Japan,  and, — Mrs.  Harris-like,  no 
ttuck  inot<ufuiu  exitit!  This,  on  the 
authority  of  Dr.  K.  Naumann,  long 
attached  to  the  Imperial  Japanese 
Survey  Department,  and  probably 
Ijetter  acquainted  with  the  byways 
of  Japan  than  any  other  man  living. 

It  is  necessary,  in  order  to 
avoid  the  discomfort  of  spend- 
ing two  nights  on  the  moun- 
tains, to  start  at  a  very  early- 
hour.  Haguro-san  is  visited 
first,  4  ri.  'I'hence  to  the  sum- 
mit of  Gwassan  is  9  ri ;  but  ac- 
commodation for  the  night  can 
be  obtained  at  any  of  the  three 
hamlets  situated  on  its  slope. 
The  traveller  is  advised  to 
choose  the  highest  of  the  three, 
and  next  day,  to  return  to 
Tsuru-ga-oka  via  Tamugi  and 
Oami,  in  the  neighbourhood  of 
which  latter  vilL  may  be  seen 
the  primitive  method  of  cross- 
ing an  otherwise  impassable  ra- 
vine by  Kago-watashi,  that  is,  a 
basket  slung  to  ropes.  Instead 
of  returning  to  Tsuru-ga-oka, 
it  is  also  possible  to  reach  Yama- 
gata  by  descending  from  the 
top  of  Gwassan  to  the  hamlet 
of  Iwanezawa,  a  walk  of  6  rt, 
where,  at  a  distance  of  li  ri, 
the  road  from  Tsuru-ga-oka  to 
Yamagata  viA  the  Roku-ju-ri- 
goe  is  met.] 

Leaving  Tsuru-ga-oka,  the  road 
crosses  the  Mogami-gawa  close  to 
its  mouth  before  reaching 

Siikata  {Inn,  Miura-ya),  a  port 
of  call  for  steamers.  The  principal 
street  presents  a  peculiar  appear- 
ance, with  its  houses  standing  in 
separate  enclosures. 

[From  Fukura  (fair  accommo- 
dation), the  ascent  of  Chokai- 
zan,  sometimes  also  called 
Tori-no-umi-yama,  may  best  be 


ao6 


Emite  27. — Sendai  to  Tmni-ga-oJca  d'  Akita. 


made.  A  trip  to  this  magni- 
ficent mountain  is  strongly 
recommended.  Scarcely  any 
other  peak  in  Japan,  Yari-ga- 
take  perhaps  excepted,  affords 
80  extensive  a  view.  Sunrise 
la  the  best  time  for  the  view, 
for  which  reason  the  traveller 
should  arrange  so  as  to  spend 
the  night  on  the  top.  It  is, 
however,  possible  to  make  the 
ascent  and  to  descend  again  to 
Fukura  in  one  long  day.  The 
distance  to  the  summit,  which 
is  considered  to  be  9  W,  is 
divided  into  three  equal  stages, 
of  which  the  first  3  ri  may  be 
performed  on  horseback.  The 
second  takes  one  to  the  shed 
at  Kawara-ishi,  4,800  ft.  above 
the  sea,  where  water  and  poor 
native  food  can  be  obtained, 
and  where  even  in  summer 
patches  of  snow  may  be  seen. 
The  third  stage  leads  past  the 
rim  of  an  old  crater,  and  over 
snow  and  volcanic  scroriae  to 
the  present  peak.  Near  the 
top  are  some  sheds  for  pilgrims, 
and  a  small  temple  little 
better  than  a  hut.  ITie  actual 
summit  is  800  ft.  above  this 
point,  and  is  reached  by 
clambering  over  a  wilderness 
of  broken  rocks  and  stones, 
the  result  of  some  ancient 
eruption. 

The  first  recorded  eniption  took 
place  in  A.D.  801,  and  the  last  about 
30  years  apro.  Traces  of  its  action 
may  still  l)c  seen  in  the  solfatara  on 
the  W.  side  of  the  mountain,  but  the 
upheaval  was  an  insi^iificant  one, 
and  the  volcanic  force  of  Chokai-zan 
is  evidently  becoming  extinct. 

From  the  summit  the  eye 
wanders  over  the  entire  range 
of  mountains  dividing  Ugo 
from  Rikuchu,  and  over  those 
of  Nambu  beyond.  Looking 
•W.  is  the  sea,  with  to  the 
r.  the  long  headland  of  Oji- 
ka.  Opposite  lies  Hishima, 
and  to  the  1.  Awajima  and 
Sado.    To  the  S.  is  the  plain 


of  the  lower  Mogami-gawa, 
bounded  by  the  mountains  of 
Uzen  and  Echigo,  with  the 
long  slope  of  Gwassan  in  the 
centre.  Most  curious  of  all, 
as  the  first  rays  of  light  break 
through  the  darkness,  is  the 
conical  shadow  of  Ohokai-zan 
itself,  projected  on  to  the  sea, 
and  rapidly  diminishing  in 
size  as  the  sun  ascends.]  ' 

The  road  now  lies  along  the 
coast  at  the  foot  of  Chokai-zan  and 
Inamura-dake,  as  far  as  Shiohoshi, 
on  the  top  of  high  cliffs  over- 
hanging  the  sea.  The  view  of  Cho- 
kai-zan varies  constantly.  From 
Shiokoshi  to  Hirazawa  the  coast  is 
much  broken  up  by  small  bays, 
whose  entrances  are  guarded  by 
rocky  cliffs,  and  where  small  fishingr- 
villages  line  the  shore. 

Honjo  {Inn^  Komatsu-ya),  for- 
merly the  residence  of  a  DaimyG 
named  Eokugo,  stands  on  the  banks 
of  the  Koyoshi-gawa,  at  whose 
mouth  is  the  small  port  of  Furu- 
yuki.  From  this  point  onwards, 
as  far  as  Akita,  the  coast  extends 
in  one  long  unbroken  dreary  line 
of  sandy  shore.  The  manufacture 
of  salt  from  sea- water  by  a  rough 
method  is  carried  on  here  to  a  con- 
siderable extent,  and  in  the  month 
of  May  large  quantities  of  hata- 
hata,  a  fish  resembling  the  sardine, 
are  caught  with  the  seine.  An 
inferior  kind  of  lamp-oil  is  extracted 
from  these  fish,  and  the  refuse 
is  used  as  manure.     At 

A  rayn ,  the  Omono-gawa  is  crossed 
to  the  prefectural  town  of 

Akitai  (see  p.  204). 


Eoute  28. — From  yiujaUi  to  Tsuni-r/a-Qha. 


207 


EOUTE  28. 

TPvxyH.    NlIGATA    TO    TSUBTJ-QA-OKA. 

[Valley  of  the  Miomote-gawa.J 

Itinerarij. 

in:iGATA  to  :—        Bi.  Cho.  M. 

Nuttari 26  If 

UchiShimami....     3    21  8| 

SHIBATA 3      8  7| 

Mikkaichi 1       6  2| 

Ifakajo 3       6  7$ 

Kurokawa 1       4  2if 

Hirabayashi 2     15  6 

MURAKAMI 2    34  7i 

8arusawa 2     13      6| 

Shionomachi 1     20      31 

Budo 1     32      4k 

Nakamura 2     12      5$ 

Arakawa 18       1^ 

Ogiini 4     22  lU 

Tagawa-yu 5    30  14| 

TSJRU-GA-OKA    1     18      3| 

Total 38    33  95 


This  route  is  mostly  impracti- 
c».ble  for  jinrikishas.  The  road  is 
doll  as  far  as  Kurokawa,  where 
the  scenery  becomes  more  interest- 
ing, and  a  good  view  of  the  moan- 
tain  ranges  ahead  begins  to  dis- 
close itself.  The  most  conspicuous 
emmnits  are :  in  front,  Budo-yama, 
so  called  from  the  wild  grapes  to  be 
found  growing  on  its  sides ;  and  to 
the  r.  in  the  distance,  the  highest 
of  the  three  peaks  of  Washi-ga  su, 
or  the  'Eagle's  Eyrie.'  The  road 
enters  the  lower  hills  on  nearing 
the  former  castle-town  of 

*  Marakdinl  (fair  accommodation), 
a  clean  and  good-sized  place.  After 
crossing  the  Miomote-gawa,  the 
most  delightful  scenery  on  this 
route  is  reached.  Two  new  sum- 
mits to  the  r., — Eboshi-yama  and 
the  Echigo  Fuji,  a  double-crested 
mountain  one  of  whose  peaks  as- 
sumes in  miniature  the  exact  form 
of  its  great  namesake,  and  others 
most  various  in  size  and  contour, 
come  in  sight.  Clusters  of  pines 
and  cryptomerias,  and  the  never- 
ending  green  of  a  rich  cidtivation 


along  the  lower  level,  an(J  of  the 
grassy  and  leafy  heights,  contri- 
bute to  the  charm  of  the  landscape. 
[Dr.  Navunann  highly  recom- 
mends the  picturesque  upper 
course  of  the  Mi(yinote-gaiva, 
especially  the  gorge  between 
the  villages  of  Miomote  and 
Iwakuzure,  Miomote  itself 
lying  at  the  foot  of  the  moun- 
tains like  a  little  paradise.  He 
includes  in  his  praise  the 
whole  of  the  wild  district 
extending  northward  to  the 
Mogami-gawa,  and  recom- 
mends the  following  tour  to 
mountaineers  : — From  Sendai 
to  Ito-ga-take,  Gwassan,  Cho- 
kai-zan,  Tazawa,  Odori,  Mio- 
mote, Iwakuziu'e,  Washi-ga-su 
(4,140  ft.),  Arasawa,  Gomizawa, 
Asahi-dake  (6,530  ft.),  Oguni, 
Tamagawa,  lide-san  (7,130  ft.), 
Ichinoto,  Niigata.  Portions  of 
this  tour  are  described  in 
Eoute  27.] 

From  Nakaiiiiirn,  it  is  a  per- 
petual succession  of  steep  ascents. 
The  i^rincipal  sight  on  the  way  is 
Urushi-yania  no  Iwaya,  a  striking 
mass  ot  grey  rock,  which  towers 
romantically  above  a  purling  brook 
from  amidst  a  glade  of  giant  cryp- 
tomerias, and  is  half-shrouded  in 
live  oaks  and  creepers  that  take 
root  in  almost  inaccessible  nooks 
and  crannies. 

The  tradition  is  that  Yoshiie,  commonly 
known  as  Hachiman  Taro,  or  the  '  tirst- 
boni  of  the  God  of  War,'  built  him  in  this 
spot  a  r(X)f  of  arrows  as  a  shelter  from  the 
weather,  when  he  had  defeated  his  foes  in 
this  mountain  fastness.  Hence  the  name 
(or  nither  perhaps  the  name  may  have 
g^iven  rise  to  the  story)  of  Yabuki  Dai- 
myojin,  lit.  the  '  God  of  the  Arrow-i-oofinjf,' 
under  which  this  wan*ior  is  worshii)ped 
as  the  local  JShinto  deity. 

Tiigawa-yn,  a  village  so  called 
I  from  its  hot-sj^rings,  is  situated  at 
the  base  of  the  Dainichi-toge.  It 
contains  several  good  tea-houses 
witli  pleasant  bathing  accommoda- 
tion. Jinrikishas  can  be  taken 
from  this  place  across  the  plain  to 
Tsiirii-ga-oka  (see  p.  205). 


208 


llotite  29* — From  Akita  to  Aomon, 


EOUTE  29. 

From  Akita  to  Aomori. 
funakawa.    ascent  of  iwaki-san. 

Itinerary, 

AKITA  to:—  Ri.  Cho.    M. 

Tsuchizaki 1     18  3| 

Okubo     3     30       H 

Hitoichi 2     18       6 

Kado 3    —      7i 

Movioka 1     IS      3f 

Noshiro 4       3  10 

Tsurugata 3    —      7i: 

Niageba 3    29      9^- 

Kotsunagi  ...» 21       1^ 

Tfiiizureko 3       6       7| 

ODATE 4    21  Hi 

Shirazawa  2     21       6i 

Ikari-ga-seki 4     28  llf 

Ishikawa 3     19  s] 

HIROSAKI 2     14      5f 

Namioka  4    26  Hi 

Shinjo 4     14  10| 

AOMORI  1     25      4i 

Total  55    23  135f 


Descending  the  r.  bank  of  the 
river  to  Minato,  the  road  follows 
the  coast,  and  at  Okubo  crosses  to 
the  shore  of  a  large  lagoon,  called 
Hachird-gata,  whose  greatest  length 
from  N.  to  S.  is  17  ni.,  its  breadth 
being  about  7i  ni.  The  entrance 
on  the  S.W.,  by  which  it  communi- 
cates with  the  sea,  is  only  about 
150  yds.  wide. 

[On  the  W.  of  the  bay  formed  by 
the  headland  on  tjie  opposite 
side  of  the  lagoon,  lies  the  port 
of  Funakawa  (Inn  by  Moroi), 
near  which  are  some  remark- 
able rocks  rising  to  60  ft.  in 
height.  In  one  place  they  form 
a  natural  bridge  in  the  sea. 
Funakawa  is  10  ri  28  chb  distant 
by  road  from  Akita,  passing 
through  Futiakoshif  at  the 
mouth  of  the  lagoon,  6  ri  21 
cho  from  Akita.  Jinrikish'as 
are  available.] 


After  iQavipg  the  lagoon  ofc 
Kado,  the  road  strikes  across  a 
rich  plain  extending  from  the 
mountains  to  the  sea-shore  on  the 
1.  and  northwards  to 

Noshiro  {Inn  by  Kanazawa  Kai- 
mon);  thence  "to  Tsurugata  on  the 
Nqshiro-gawa.   From  Tsurugata.  to 

0<lat<',  the  road  ascends  the  val- 
ley of  the  Noahiro-gawa,  keeping 
always  on  the  r.  bank.  At  Odate 
quantities  of  coarse  lacquered  ware 
are  manufactured.  Travellers  com- 
ing from  the  opposite  direction  can. 
descend  by  boat  from  Odate  to 
Tsurugata.  From  Odate  the  road. 
turns  again  to  the  N.,  and  crosses 
a  range  of  hills.  The  slopes  on  the 
r.  are  grassy  and  bare  of  trees, 
while  those  to  the  1.  are  covered 
with  a  dense  forest.  Numbers  of 
horses  are  bred  in  this  neighbour- 
hood. 

Hirosaki  (Inns  by  Ishiba,  Nagai) 
was  formerly  the  castle-town  of  a 
Daimyo  surnamed  Tsugaru,  after 
the  district  which  formed  his  ter- 
ritory. The  castle  was  destroyed 
some  years  ago,  and  its  site  is  now 
occupied  by  bai'racks. 

[On  the  W.  of  the  town  rises 
l^akl-san,  or  the  Tsugaru  Fuji^ 
so  called  on  account  of  its  simi- 
larity in  form  to  the  famous 
mountain  of  that  name.  One 
of  the  best  views  of  this  peak 
is  enjoyed  by  the  traveller  as 
he  approaches  Hirosaki  from 
the  S.,  when  the  mountain 
makes  its  appearance  in  a 
N.W.  direction.  Its  solitary 
grandeur  equals,  if  it  does  not 
surpass,  that  of  the  loftier 
cone  after  which  it  is  named. 
The  ascent  is  made  from 
Hyaku-sawa,  about  3  ri  from 
Hirosaki,  at  the  S.  foot  of 
the  mountain,  where  there  is  a 
temple,  whose  incumbent  will 
furnish  guides  for  the  ascent. 
The  season  at  which  pilgrims 
make  the  ascent  is  strictly  Umit- 
td  i  but  travellers  will  find  no 


Eoute  30, — Matsmlilma  and  Kinhim-zan, 


20^ 


difficolty  in  obtaining  the  ne- 
cessary permission  at  any  time, 
by  malang  a  small  present  of 
money.  At  a  height  of  4, 1 00 
ft.  lies  an  oval  crater,  about 
100  yds.  wide,  at  the  bottom 
of  which  is  a  small  pond. 
To  reach  the  highest  peak 
of  all,  about  4,650  ft.  high, 
two  steep  ascents  have  to  be 
made  over  boulders  and  loose 
gravel.  Scattered  over  the 
summit  lie  numerous  huge 
andesite  boulders.  The  top 
is  extremely  steep,  a  fact  ap- 
parently due  in  large  measure 
to  the  washing  away  of  ejecta- 
menta,  leaving  only  the  solid 
rock.  Notwithstanding  the 
great  amount  of  degradation 
that  has  taken  place  upon  the 
upper  part  of  this  mountain, 
its  general  form  and  the  exis- 
tence of  beds  of  pumice  indicate 
that  it  has  been  in  a  state  of 
eruption  during  periods  which, 
from  a  geological  point  of  view, 
are  quite  recent. 

The  ascent  and  descent  can 
be  easily  accomplished  in  5  a 
hours.] 

From  Hirosaki  the  road  lies 
across  a  plain  cultivated  with  rice, 
beyond  which  it  ascends  the  range 
of  hills  known  as  Tsugaru-zAkci.  The 
top  of  this  range  commands  a  mag- 
nificent view  of  the  surrounding 
country.  To  the  N.  and  N.E.  lies 
the  bay  of  Aomori  looking  like  a 
a  huge  lake ;  on  the  E.  rise  the 
mountains  of  the  central  chain  that 
forms  tha  backbone  of  the  Main 
Island ;  to  the  N.  W.  are  the  penin- 
sula of  Mimmaya  and  the  valley  of 
the  Iwaki-gawa;  on  the  S.W.,  Iwa- 
ki-san  and  the  town  of  Hirosaki ; 
and  on  the  S.,  the  mountains  that 
divide  Tsugaru  from  Akita.  De- 
scending a  narrow  valley,  the  road 
shortly  issues  on  to  the  coast,  and 
reaches 

Aomori  (see  p.  202). 


Shiogama 
coast 


KOUTE  80. 

Matsushima  and  Kinkwa-zan. 

the  matsushima  .  archipelago, 
nobiru.     i8hin0maki. 

By  train  from  Sendai  on  the^ 
Northern  Eailway  to  Shiogama 
in  i  hr. 

The  archipelago  of  pine-clad 
islets  collectively  bearing  the  name 
of  Matsushima,  has  been  famed  for 
its  beauty  ever  since  northern 
Japan  was  conquered  from  the 
Aino  aborigines  in  the  8th  cen- 
tury, and  is  one  of  the  San-kei, 
or  *  Three  Most  Beautiful  Scenes' 
of  Japan,  the  other  two  being 
Miyajima  and  Ama-no-hashidate. 
A  lengthened  form  of  the  name,. 
Shiogama-no-Matsushima,  i.e.  *  The 
Pine  Islands  of  Shiogama,'  is 
often  made  use  of 
being  the  town  on  the 
where  the  curious  landscape  be- 
gins. The  favourite  way  of  viewing- 
the  scene  is  to  row  or  sail  across 
to  the  hamlet  which  has  borrowed 
the  name  of  Matsushima,  un- 
less it  be  desired  also  to  visit 
Ishinomaki  and  Kinkwa-zan,  in 
which  case  a  very  good  view  is- 
afforded  from  the  steamer's  deck. 
These  steamers  ply  daily  between 
Shiogama  and  Ishinomaki,  starting- 
after  the  arrival  of  the  first  train 
from  Sendai.  The  passage  to  Ishino- 
maki occupies  about  3  hrs.,  or  not  so- 
long  when  weather  permits  of  the 
small  river  steamers  going  outside- 
the4:)ar  at  Nobiru,  instead  of  taking 
the  lengthier  canal  route.  The 
larger  boats  which  connect  withthe- 
Nippon  Yusen  Kwaisha's  steamers 
set  Oginohama  on  their  voyages  to 
and  from  Yokohama  and  Hakodate,, 
also  pass  through  the  little  archipe- 
lago, and  take  but  2  hrs.  to  cover 
the  distance  between  Shiogama  and 
Oginohama. 

ShiogJima  (Inns,  Asano-ya,  Saito^ 

Ebi-ya,  all  near  the  railway  station 

I  and  the  pier  J  the  old  and  noted  inn 


-210 


lioute  30» — Matsiishijna  and  Kinhm-zan, 


•on  the  liill  called  Shogaro,  a  for- 
mer pleasure-house  of  the  Prince  of 
Sendai,  is  still  in  existence,  but 
being  now-a-days  inconveniently 
situated  for  train  and  steamer,  is 
little  patronised  by  travellers). 

The  Temple,  which  once  belonged 
to  the  Shingon  sect  of  Buddhists 
And  was  known  under  the  name  of 
Hbrenji,  should  be  visited.  It  has 
been  transferred  to  the  worship  of 
the  Shinto  god  Shiogama  Dainiyo- 
jin,  a  son  of  the  creator  Izanagi, 
and  the  reputed  discoverer  of  the 
way  to  obtain  salt  by  evaporating 
sea- water.  The  word  ahio-gania 
means  Salt-Boiler.  In  the  temple 
court  will  be  noticed  a  sundial  in- 
scribed with  Roman  figures.  It  bears 
date  1783,  and  was  presented  by 
Rin  Shihei,  a  writer  noted  for  his 
zealous  advocacy  of  the  defence 
of  the  country  against  foreign 
inroads  which  he  prophetically 
foresaw.  There  is  like\yise  a  hand- 
some though  weather-beaten  iron 
lantern,  presented  by  thQ  warrior 
Izumi  Saburo  Tadahira  in  A.D. 
1 1 87.  But  in  the  temple's  present 
state,  the  magnificent  cryptomerias 
and  other  trees,  in  the  midst  of 
whose  deep  shade  it  stands,  are  un- 
doubtedly the  greatest  attraction 
-of  the  place.  Shiogama  is  noted 
for  its  ink-stones.  From  Shiogama 
to  the  hamlet  of 

Matsiishiina  (Inn,  Kwangetsu- 
ro)  is  a  deliji^htful  sail  amidst  the 
promontories,  bays,  and  '  islets, 
which  stretch  along  the  coast  for  18 
ri  as  far  as  Kinkwa-zan,  the  most 
celebrated  of  the  group.  There  are 
said  to  be  88  islands  between  Shio- 
gama and  Matsushima,  and  808  in 
rail  between  Shiogama  and  Kinkwa- 
«an,  of  which  but  very  few  are 
inhabited.  But  8  and  its  com- 
pounds are  favourite  round  numbers 
with  the  Japanese,  and  moreover 
the  smallest  rocks  are  included  in 
the  enumeration.  Each  of  them, 
down  to  the  least,  has  received  a 
separate  name,  many  of  them  fan- 
tastic, as   *  Buddha's    Entry    into 


Nirvana,'  'Question  and  Answer 
Island,'  *the  Twelve  Imperial  Con- 
sorts,' and  so  on.  All  the  islands  are 
formed  of  volcanic  tuff,  into  whicli 
the  sea  makes  rapid  inroads.-  Doubt- 
less many  of  the  smaller  isles  dis- 
appear in  this  manner,  while  their 
number  is  maintained  by  th© 
gradual  breaking  up  of  penin- 
sulas. In  almost  every  available 
nook  stands  one  of  those  thousan<l 
pine-trees,  that  have  given  name 
and  fame  to  the  locality.  At  the 
hamlet  of  Matsushima,  the  temple 
of  Zuganji,  in  which  are  the  ances- 
tral tablets  of  the  Date  family,  will 
repay  a  visit,  though  its  exterior  is 
not  promising.  In  the  outer  court, 
in  front  of  a  small  cave  called  the 
Hoshin  ga  Iwaya,  are  two  large 
figures  of  Kwannon  cut  in  slate* 
stone.  There  is  also  a  well-carved 
wooden  figure  of  Date  Masamune 
in  a  shrine  behind  the  chief  altar. 
The  various  apartments  of  the  tem- 
ple are  handsomely  decorated; 
and  when  the  gold  fpil  which  is 
lavishly  strewn  about  was  fresh, 
the  effect  must  have  been  very  fine. 
Specimens  of  non-hoUow  bamboo 
are  brought  for  sale  at  the  viU.  of 
Matsushima,  but  being  rare,  ar^ 
somewhat  expensive.  Two  ri  dis- 
tant is 

To  mi  jam  a,  a  hill  from  which 
by  far  the  best  general  view 
of  the  archipelago  is  obtained, 
and  where  any  traveller  who, 
during  the  boat  journey  from 
Shiogama,  may  have  been  disap- 
pointed with  his  trip,  will  allow 
that  the  locality  possesses  great 
beauty,  even  should  he  think  that 
this  has  been  somewhat  exaggerateci 
by  Japanese  popular  report.  The 
whole  distance  may  be  accom- 
plished in  jinrikishas,  excepting 
the  last  3  chd  leading  np 
to  the  temple  of  Taikdji,  which 
stands  near  the  top  of  the  ascent. 
This  temple  is  said  to  have  been. 
founded  by  Tamura  Maro,  a  cele- 
brated general,  who  was  sent 
against  the  Ainos  during  the  reign 


Xobiru.     IshmomakL     Kinkwa-zan, 


211 


of  the  Emperor  Kwammu  (circa 
A.D.  800).  From  this  spot  the 
«ye  wanders  oV^er  'a  maze  of 
islets  and  promontories,  land  and 
sea  being  mixed  in  inextricable  but 
lovely  confusion.  In  the  direc- 
tion of  Shiogama,  the  double  peak 
of  Shiraishi-no-take  may  be  de- 
scried in  the  blue  distance,  while 
to  the  r.  rises  the  range  dividing 
the  province  of  Kikuzen  from  those 
of  Uzen  and  Ugo.  The  highest  hill 
to  the  1.  is  on  the  island  of  Funairi- 
shima,  above  the  port  of  Ishi- 
bama,  a  place  of  call  for  merchant 
steamers.  Tomiyama  is  but  a 
short  distance  off  the  main-road  to 
Ishinomaki,  and  may  be  taken  on 
the  way  there  either  by  jinrikisha 
or  carriage, — altogether  about  9  ri 
from  Matsushima. 

In  going  by  steamer  from  Shio- 
gama, •  the  islets  ai'e  left  behind 
after  an  hour's  sail,  and  the  canal 
which  connects  the  shallow  waters 
of  the  bay  with  Nobiru  is  entered. 

Nobirii  (poor  accommodation). 
The  port  of  this  place  is  little 
more  than  a  creek  with  5  or  6  ft. 
draught  of  water,  and  has  a  bar 
across  its  mouth.  Some  time  ago, 
the  course  of  the  river  was  altered 
by  making  a  cutting  to  a  point 
about  2  m.  inland,  where  there  is  a 
wide  bend.  It  was  expected  that 
the  flow  of  the  river  in  its  new  bed 
would  suffice  to  keep  the  channel 
clear,  that  the  old  bed  of  the 
Naruse-gawa  would  be  available  to 
take  off  any  superfluous  amount  of 
water  in  times  of  flood,  and  that 
the  bar  at  the  mouth  could  be  kept 
down  by  dredging.  But  all  at- 
tempts to  effect  this  have  been 
unsuccessful,  and  the  failure  has 
put  a  stop  to  various  other  schemes 
which  had  the  attention  of  the  Go- 
vernment for  increasing  the  facili- 
ties of  trade  in  this  region.  The 
canal,  10  m.  in  length,  con- 
necting Nobiru  with  the  Kitakami- 
gawa  2  m.  above  Ishinomaki,  is 
part  of  the  original  scheme  for 
making  Nobiru  the  chief  port  in 


the  Bay  of  Sendai,  the  mouth  of 
the  Kitakami-gawa  being  also  ex- 
posed to  the  full  sweep  of  the 
Pacific  Ocean  and  to  the  violent 
S.W.  gales  that  drive  through 
the  Matsusbima  group.  A  con- 
sequence of  this  is  that  the  bar  at 
the  mouth  of  ttie  river  has  like- 
wise defied  all  efforts  at  removal. 
The  eanal  is  100  ft.  wide,  and  just 
deep  enough  to  admit  of  large 
cargo  boats  being  towed  through. 
The  level  is  maintained  by  means 
of  a  lock  at  the  river  end.  The 
river  steamers  make  use  of  thia 
canal,  except  when  the  sea  is  very 
smooth  outside. 

Ishiiioiiniki  (Inns,*  Asano-ya,Ho- 
shi-ya),  noted  for  its  slate-quarries 
and  salmon  fisheries,  stands  at  the 
mouth  of  tlie  river  Eitakami,  the 
natural  outlet  for  the  .  trade  of 
the  Nambu  district  and  the  N.  It 
is  a  bustling  little  sea-port,  pos- 
sessing two  banks  and  a  bazaar. 
A  fair  amount  of  ship-building 
in  European  style  is  carried  on. 

Hyorlyama,  a  hill  at  the  en- 
trance of  the  harbour,  commands 
an  extensive  sea  view,  including 
the  Matsushima  archipelago,  the 
windings  of  the  river,  a  range  of 
high  mountains  inland,  and  a 
bird's-eye  view  of  the  town. 

Steamers  ascend  the  river  daily 
to  Kozevji^  which  is  about  2^  m. 
from  Ichinoseki,  a  station  on  the 
Northern  Railway.  The  journey 
dovm  the  river  is  recommended  in- 
stead, as  the  boats  run  through  to 
Shiogama  in  one  day,  generally  in. 
from  9  to  10  hrs.,  but  frequently 
taking  much  longer,  owing  to 
stoppages  on  the  way  for  cargo 
(see  p.  196). 

2. — Kink  WA-  zan. 

The  most  direct  means  of  reach- 
ing this  noted  island  is  by  one  of 
the  Nippon  Yiisen  Kwaisha's  tri- 
weekly steamers  to  Oginohama  (Inns, 
Kagi-ya,OmoriJ,  in  the  Bay  of  Sen.- 
dai,  whence  small  sailing  boats  can 
be  obtained  for  Kinkwa^zan,  a  dis- 


212 


Eoute  30. — Matsushima  and  Kinkwa-zan. 


tance  of  nbout  10  ri.  But  it  is  more 
generally  approached  from  the  port 
of  Ishinomaki,  where  boats  are 
also  procurable  ;  or  if  it  is  desired 
to  shorten  the  sea  passage,  jin- 
rikishas  may  taken  from  Ishi- 
nomalii  to  the  vill.  of  Wada-no- 
ha  (Inn  by  Ishikawa  Jubei),  which 
lies  1^  ri  further  along  the  coast 
between  Ishinomaki  and  Ogino- 
hama.  The  cost  of  boats  irom 
Wada-no-ha  to  Kinkwa-zan  was 
^1.43  per  boatman  in  1890.  The 
distance  by  water  is  estimated  at 
1 1  ri,  from  which  again  2  ri  may  be 
saved  by  landing  at  the  hamlet 
of  Aikawa-hama  (Inn,  Izumi-ya), 
situated  in  a  small  bay  to  the 
"W.  of  the  channel  separating 
Kinkwa-zan  from  the  mainland. 
The  latter  plan  is  recommended. 
There  is  a  road  from  Wada- 
no-ha  to  Oginohama,  4  3  ri;  but  it 
is  not  practicable  for  jinrikishas, 
neither  is  the  hilly  path  of  4  ri 
more  which  leads  directly  to  the 
ferry  at  Kinkwa-zan.  Nothing  is 
gained  by  starting  from  Ogino- 
hama, owing  to  its  situation  at  the 
liead  of  a  deeply  indented  bay,  unless 
the  traveller  has  come  by  steamer 
from  Yokohama,  in  which  case 
there  is  no  alternative.  The  time 
taken  from  Wada-no-ha  depends 
upon  the  state  of  the  wind.  An 
unfavourable  wind  affords  an  ad- 
ditional reason  for  landing  at  Ai- 
kawa-hama. From  this  hamlet  to 
the  ferry  called  Yamadori,  is  a  walk 
of  a  little  more  than  1  m.  over  a 
low  pass,  the  top  of  which  affords  an 
entrancing  view  of  Kinkwa-zan  and 
the  entire  Matsushima  archipelago. 
A  short  descent  then  leads  to  the 
ferry-house,  where  the  sonorous 
notes  of  a  fine  bronze  bell  announce 
to  the  boatmen  on  the  sacred 
island  that  passengers  are  waiting 
to  be  conveyed  across.  Boats  can- 
not be  kept  on  this  pai*t  of  the 
mainland,  owing  to  its  exposure  to 
the  great  seas  which  roll  in  from 
the  Pacific,  whilst  the  W.  side 
of   Kinkwa-zan  opposite  to  it  is 


comparatively  sheltered.  Spacious 
boats  well-manned  soon  perform 
the  2  m.  passage,  and  land  the 
visitor  at  a  small  breakwater  on 

Kiiikwai-znii,  a  short  distance 
below  the  temples.  The  tame  deer 
with  which  the  island  abounds  form 
pictui*esque  objects  as  they  stand  on 
projecting  ledges  of  rock,  or  graze- 
quietly  by  the  side  of  the  road  that 
leads  up  through  a  wood  composed 
of  pine,  beech,  and  chestnut  trees. 
The  only  buildings  on  the  island 
are  those  attached  to  the  temples 
at  which  every  one*must  stay ;  but 
there  is  ample  accommodation  for 
all  under  the  massive  roof  of  the 
main  edifice.  Passports  should  be 
shown  by  the  foreign  visitor  to 
the  priests.  A  liberal  contribution,, 
if  he  desires  to  stay  overnight,  will 
generally  ensure  the  use  of  the  jo- 
dan,  two  large  handsome  rooms.  If 
it  is  intended  to  return  the  same 
day  a  lesser  offering  will  suffice.  No- 
other  payments  are  necessary.  Ex- 
cellent vegetarian  food  is  provided,, 
and  served  up  by  the  acolytes. 
Guides  are  also  furnished  to  con- 
duct  the  visitor  around  the  island^ 
if  a  request  to  that  effect  is  made. 

Kinkwa-zan  is  one  of  tlie  most  renowned 
spots  in  the  north,  and  has  l»een,  in  spite  of 
its  inaccessiljility,  the  resort  of  pril^ims- 
from  all  parts  of  .lapan  for  centuries  past. 
Such  was  its  sanctity  in  old  daj's,  and 
such  the  inferior  position  assijijiied  tc> 
woman,  that  they  were  not  permitted  .to 
^aze  on  the  island,  much  less  put  their  feet 
iipon  it.  It  need  scarcely  )>o  said  that 
tho.se  days  are  past;  but  some  of  the  old 
cnstoms  connected  with  the  place  still 
linjrer  around  it.  For  instance,  every  pil- 
gi-iin  is  conveyed  grafh  to  and  from  the 
island,  and  receives  food  and  shelter  from 
tlie  priests  until  his  devotions  are  over. 
What  contribution  he  may  chotjse  to  niake^ 
rests  entirely  with  himself. 

The  oriffin  of  the  name  Kinkita-zaw 
('golden-flower  mountain')  is  obscure. 
Tradition  asserts  that  j?old  was  found  oit 
the  island  then  known  as  Michinoku-yama; 
and  the  following  lines  in  the  MaujfOtthu, 
an  anthologj^  of  the  Hth  centur5',  are  8Ui>~ 
l)o&ed  to  refer  to  the  discovery : 

Sumerogi  no 
Mi  yo  mkaeu  to 
Aziona  nam 
Michinokn-yamo  ni 
Koga  ne  hana  taku 


Kviikwa-zan, 


218 


which  means,  "  To  add  lustre  to  the  sov- 
ereign's augusli  reign,  golden  flowers 
t>looin  in  tlie  mountains  of  Michinoku  in 
tbo  East."  It  is  more  probable,  however, 
tbat  it  derived  its  name  from  the  glitter 
of  the  quantity  of  mica  found  in  the  soil. 

Almost  everything  required  by 
the  temple  inmates  is  raised  on  the 
Bpot.  Their  sake,  of  which  130  koJcvb 
WLre  produced  yearly,  is  specially 
noted  for  the  soothing  peculiarity 
that  no  headache  follows  even  un- 
limited libations.  Every  pilgrim 
is  therefore  allowed  to  drink  to  his 
heart's  content.  The  chief  festi- 
vals take  place  in  February,  March, 
August,  and  September.  Regard- 
ing the  history  of  the  temples  very 
little  can  be  learnt,  all  the  records 
and  relics  connected  with  them 
having  been  lost  by  fire.  Before 
the  transfer  of  the  buildings  to  the 
Shinto  cult,  they  were  attached 
to  the  Shingon  sect  of  Bud- 
dhists, and  dedicated  to  the  service 
of  the  goddess  Benten.  Some  of  the 
original  smaJler  shrines  are-  still 
standing;  but  the  Ge-Honzo,  or  chief 
temple,  was  built  only  some  ten  years 
ago,  and  is  dedicated  to  the  god  and 
goddess  Elanayama-Hiko-no-Mikoto 
and  Kanayama-Hime-no-Mikoto. 
Though  it  otherwise  exhibits  pure 
Shinto  style,  the  eaves  are  adorned 
with  fine  carvings.  The  contribu- 
tion box  in  front,  made  of  a  block 
of  slate-stone  and  measuring  9 
ft.  in  length  and  3  ft.  in  breadth, 
with  carvings  of  deer  in  relief,  as 
well  as  the  gaku  in  the  oratory,  a 
splendid  piece  of  carving  in  keyaki 
wood,  which  took  three  years  to 
finish^  are  well- worth  inspection. 

The  walk  to  the  summit  of  Kin- 
kwan-zan  takes  about  i  hr.  from 
the  temple,  being  but  some  16  cho. 
The  path  leads  behind  the  main 
buildings,  mostly  through  broken 
houlders  and  over  the  interlaced 
roots  of  beech-trees.  The  objects 
pointed  out  on  the  way  are  de- 
tached pieces  of  rock  with  fanciful 
designations.  Only  one  of  these 
reeks  to  judge  from  the  immense 
cairn  rais^  upon  it,  seems  to  have 


attracted  the  attention  of  pilgrims  ; 
and  this  is  where  Kobo  Daishi  is 
said  to  have  sat  in  meditation 
when  he  visited  the  island. .  The 
glorious  view  from  the  summit 
repays  the  traveller  for  any  diffi- 
culty he  may  have  had  in  reaching 
Kinkwa-zan.  Nothing  obstructs 
the  vista  of  the  broad  and  blue  Paci- 
fic ;  for  the  mountain,  although 
densely  wooded  on  all  sides,  slopes 
gradually  down  to  the  sea.  On 
the  W.  side,  the  whole  Matsu- 
shima  archipelago  is  embraced, — 
even  the  outermost  isles  to  the 
N.,  fringed  with  a  thousand  pines 
and  encii'cled  by  white  breakers. 
Takahashi-yama,  a  higher  peak  to 
the  N.  W.  on  the  mainland,  shuts 
out  the  prospect  in  that  direction 
only. 

The  small  shrine  on  the  top  of 
Kinkwa-zan  is  dedicated  to  Wata- 
zumi-no-Mikoto,  the  Shinto  God  of 
the  Sea.  Close  by  it  is  the  site  of  the 
lighthouse  which  stood  there  until 
the  erection  of  the  present  fine 
granite  structure  on  the  E.  side  of 
the  island.  A  path  from  the  Sum- 
mit descends  to  the  lighthouse,  and 
joins  what  is  called  the  Pilgrim's 
Circuit,  a  road  round  the  island 
which  no  visitor  should  fail  to 
follow,  as  it  affords  glimpses  of 
wild  coast  scenery  unsurpassed  on 
the  N.E.  coast,  noted  though  this  l)e 
for  its  picturesque  beauty.  The 
circuit  of  the  island  by  road  is 
estimated  at  from  5  to  6  ri,  and 
takes  about  the  same  number  of 
hours  to  accomplish. 

The  return  from  Kinkwa-zan  is 
usually  made  direct  by  water  to 
Oginohama,  Ishinomaki,  or — should 
the  wind  be  favourable — ^to  Sliio- 
gama. 


214 


Route  31. — Tlie  North-East  Coast. 


ROUTE  31. 

The  Nobth-East  Coast. 

from  mobioka  on  the  nobthebn 
bailwat  to  mitako.  down  the 
coast  fbom  mitako  thbough 
yamada,  ozuchi,  and  kamaishi 
to   mobioka   ob   hanamaki   on 

THE  NOBTHEBN  BAILWAT.  FBOM 
KAMAISHI  TO  KESEN-NUMA  AND 
ICHINOSEKI. 

The  North -East  Coast,  hitherto 
comparatively  inaccessible,  can  now 
be  approached  from  several  points 
on  the  Northern  line  of  Railway. 
Small  steamers  also  ply  at  irregn- 
lar  intervals  along  the  coast,  which 
deserves  to  be  better  known.  Spe- 
cially to  be  recommended  is  the 
portion  embracing  the  sea-board  of 
the  provinces  of  Eikuchu  and  Riku- 
zen,  extending  southwards  from 
Miyako  to  Kesen-numa.  The  road 
leads  over  the  necks  of  hilly  penin- 
snlas,  disclosing  marvellous  views 
of  the  fiord-like  coast  and  of  the 
mountain  ridges  that  extend 
down  to  it.  The  harbours  are  the 
finest  in  Japan,  though  unfortunate- 
ly but  little  use  can  be  made  of 
them,  as  a  mountain-range  shuts 
out  the  fertile  valley  of  the  Eitaka- 
mi-gawa  which  attracts  to  itself  aU 
the  produce  of  the  surrounding 
c  mntry,  the  scanty  coast  jpopula- 
tlon  having  to  subsist  on  fishing 
and  on  the  cultivation  of  small 
isolated  patches  of  land  around  the 
bays.  The  nature  of  the  country 
sufficiently  indicates  the  rough- 
ness of  the  roads  and  of  the  ac- 
commodation to  be  expected.  North 
of  Miyako^  the  mountains  recede 
from  the  sea  and  the  landscape 
becomes  monotonous. 

From  Morioka,  a  road  practicable 
for  jinrikishas  leads  to  Miyako  on 
the  E.  coast.  The  trip  takes  2 
days'  hard  travelling,  the  only 
available  resting-place  being  Kavoa- 
wihi,  almost  exactly  half-way. 


Itinerary, 

MORIOKA  to :—       Ri.  Chb.  M. 

Yanagawa 6  10  13 

Tashiro 2  14  6f 

Kadoma 2  9  5i 

Eawa-uchi    4  3  10 

Kawai 4  7  lOJr 

Haratai  3  6  7f 

Hikime 2  26  6i 

MIYAKO 3  6  7f 

Total 27  8  66i 


Soon  after  leaving  Morioka,  the 
road  begins  a  steady  ascent  for  7 
ri,  reaching  the  water-shed  after  a 
senes  of  la-rge  elbow-bends.  The 
summit  (2,600  ft.)  is  called  Kahuto- 
kamUsan,  since  here  it  was  that 
the  helmet  of  the  rebel  Sadato  was 
found  after  his  defeat  near  Ichino- 
seki  by  Hachiman  Taroin  A.D.  1100. 
From  this  point  down  to  the  sea, 
the  road  f  oUows  the  course  of  the 
Hegawa-kawa,the  grandest  scenery 
coming  some  3  ri  below  the  pasa 
on  its  E.  side.  Here  for  2  ri  the 
road  is  cut  out,  half  tunnel- wise, 
high  up  along  the  face  of  the  sheer 
precipice,  which  looks  down  upon 
the  torrent  tossing  and  foaming  in 
its  rocky  channeL  To  see  this 
to  perfection,  an  early  start  from 
Morioka  is  necessary.  From  Ka- 
wa-uchi  to  Miyako  is  an  endless 
succession  of  picturesque  land- 
scapes, with  granite  boulders  gilt- 
tering  in  the  broadening  river  as 
it  sweeps  round  jutting  cliffs  and 
pillared  blocks  of:  basalt.  Near 
Kadoma,  a  path  branches  off  to  the 
S.,  leading  up  the  valley  of  the 
Oyama-gawa,  whence  the  ascent  of 
Hayoushine^ama  (6,660  ft.),  the 
highest  mountain  in  the  district 
£.  of  the  Eitakami-gawa,  can  be 
made. 

Miyako  (Inn  by  Kikuchi  Seibei) 
has  never  fully  recovered  the 
effects  of  a  disastrous  fire  which 
occurred  some  years  ago. 


MiyaJco  to  Kamaishi  and  Morioka, 


215 


Coast  Koad  to  Kamaishi. 

Itinerary. 

MIYAKOto:  Ri.  did.  M. 

Yamada    6    —  ]4f 

Ozuchi 5     12  13 

KAMAISHI  3    19     8^ 

Total 14    31  36i 


Horses  are  procurable  at  any  of 
these  places. 

Yamada  (Inn  by  Shirotsuchi 
Sentaro).  Two  villages  lie  on  the 
shores  of  the  magnificent  bay  that 
forms  the  harbour  of  Yamada.  It 
is  surrounded  by  mountains  of 
above  1,000  ft.  in  height. 

Kamaishi  (Inn  by  Niinunla)  is 
situated  at  the  head  of  a  rocky 
inlet  2  m.  deep.  About  10  m. 
inland  is  a  district  abounding  in 
iron  ore  of  good  quality,  to  work 
which  large  sums  of  money  were 
spent  by  the  Grovernment  a  few 
years  ag6,  but  with  poor  results. 
The  ascent  of  Goyo-san,  3,900  ft. 
<sui  easily  be  made  from  Kamaishi. 

From  Kamaishi,  the  traveller 
may  rejoin  the  Northern  Railway 


at  Morioka  by  the  Kamaishi  Kaida, 
of    which    the   following    is  the 

Itinerai'y. 

KAMAISHI  to  :—       RL  Chd.  M. 

Koshi  4  31  llf 

TONO 6  20  16 

Shimo  Miyamori  ...  5  24  13f 

Tassobe  1  19  3^ 

Ohasama    2  15  6 

Otobe 4  33  12 

MORIOKA    2  32  7 

Total 28    30    70^^ 


A  somewhat  more  direct  road  for 
traveUers  going  southwards  diver- 
ges at  the  old  castle-town  of  Tono 
{Inn  by  Murakami),  and  joins  the 
railway  at  Hanamaki  station,  Ij- 
hr.  from  Morioka. 

The  journey  from  Kamaishi  to 
Kesen-numa  will  occupy  two  days 
on  foot,  with  very  poor  accommoda^ 
tion  at  the  wayside  hamlets.  Prom 
Kesen-numa  {Inn  by  Kumagae 
Ichibei)  a  new  road  via  Semmayn, 
suitable  for  jinrikishas,  is  being 
xjonstructed  to  Ichinoseki  on  the 
Northern  "Railway.  The  distance 
is  approximately  13  H, 


\\ 


rr^ 


\ 


SECTION  III. 


CENTRAL    JAPAN. 


(kotites  32 — 3"]. 


Eaute  32, — Tlie  Karuizatca-Naoetsii  Railway, 


219 


ROUTE  82. 

Thb    Kabuizawa-Naoetsu    Rail- 
way AND  NlIQATA. 

17BI>A  TO  MATSUMOTO  AND  SHIMA- 
SSIMA.  TEMPLE  OF  ZENEOJI.  EX- 
CirBSIONS  FROM  NAGANO:  BUEANDO 
XAKUSHI,  TOGAKUSHI-SAN  AND 
KBN-NO-MINE,  IZUNA-SAN.  LAKE 
MTOJIBI  AND  ASCENT  OF  MYOKO-ZAN. 
GOCHI.  LAND  AND  SEA  WAYS  FBOM 
KA0BT8U  TO  NIIQATA.  THE  ISLAND 
OF  8ADO. 


»  i 

III 

Names 

of 
Stations. 

Remarks. 

8  m. 

m 
m 

241 

m 

46 

S2| 

S7t 
64 

6»i 

73| 
8U 
871 
82 

KARUIZAWA.. 

Miyoda. 
Komoro. 
Tanaka. 

1JRT>A  

( T6ky6  to  Ka- 
V     ruizawa  (see 
(    Route  13). 

-Branch  roads 
to  the  Naka- 
sendo  and 
to  Matsu- 

.    moto. 

/  Road  to  Knna- 
X     tsu  over  the 
I     Shibu-toge. 

("Alight  ,  for 
(.     Lake  Nojiri. 
1  Alight  for  as- 
J     cent  of  Myo- 
(     kd-zan. 

Sakaki. 
Yashiro. 
Shinonoe. 
NAQANO. 

Toyono  

Mure. 
Kashiwubara 

Tagachi   

Sekiyama. 
Arai. 

TAKATA. 
NAOETSU. 

This  line,  starting  from  an  eleva- 
tion of  3,080  ft.  at  Karuizawa, 
descends  to  the  sea-coast  at  Nao- 
etsa,  and  is  on  the  whole  the  vioait 
^ctnresque  railway  route  in  Japan. 
The  following  description  of  the 
line,  as  far  as  Nagano,  is  partly 
abridged  from  an  article  in  the 
'Japan  MaiL'    The  first  five  or  six 


miles  are  over  a  fairly  level  plain. 
But  the  conditions  are  changed 
when  the  southern  slope  of  Asa- 
ma-yama  has  to  be  rounded.  Here 
lies  a  water-shed  whence  flow  large 
rivers  north  and  south,  towards  the 
Sea  of  Japan  and  the  Pacific  re- 
spectively. All  the  drainage  of  the 
great  mountain  pours  down  through 
deep  gullies  into  the  channel  of 
one  or  other  of  these  rivers.  The 
soil,  a  loosely  packed  volcanic  ash 
and  gravel  of  light  colour,  is  easily 
scooped  away,  and  large  chasms 
are  left  whose  sides  the  highway 
descends  and  ascends  in  zigzags. 
Throughout  most  of  this  section, 
the  traveller  looks  down  from  a 
giddy  height  on  rice-fields  far  be- 
low. Prom  the  point  near  Oiwake, 
where  the  Nakasendo  is  left  be- 
hind, to  Komoro  opportunities  are 
afforded  of  seeing  to  advantage  the 
Iwamurata  plain  backed  by  the 
imposing  range  of  Yatsu-ga-take. 
Asama-yama  has  a  less  smiling 
aspect  on  this  side ;  the  fiat  top  of 
the  cone  lengthens  out,  the  pinky 
brown  colour  of  the  sides  assumes 
a  blackish  hue,  and  chasms  rough 
with  indurated  lava  break  the 
regularity  of  the  slopes.  Before 
Komoro  is  reached,  a  long  volcanic 
ridge,  dominating  the  valley  of 
the  river  Ghikuma  as  far  as 
Ueda,  reveals  the  fact  that  Asama 
is  not  an  isolated  cone,  but  the  last 
and  highest  of  a  range  of  moun- 
tains. A  former  crater  which  has 
discharged  itself  into  this  valley 
and  is  now  extinct,  displays  a  row 
o^  black  jagged  rocks  in  the  hollow 
between  Asama  and  the  next  peak 
of  the  range,  a  striking  feature  as 
seen  from  Komoro. 

Komoro  (Inn,  Tsuru-ya)  is  a 
busy  commercial  centre.  For- 
merly the  seat  of  a  Daimyo,  it  has 
turned  its  picturesque  castle- 
grounds  overhanging  the  river, 
into  a  public  garden.  Saddlery, 
vehicles,  and  tools  for  the 
surrounding  district  are  manufac- 
tured here.    From  Komoro  to  Ue- 


220 


EoiUe  32, — Tlie  Kai^uizawa-Naoetsu  Railway, 


da,  the  railway  runs  down  the 
valley  of  the  Chikuma-gawa,  whose 
S.  bank  is  here  formed  by  a  series 
of  magnificent  bluffs,  in  many  places 
descending  sheer  into  the  water. 
A  few  miles  above  Ueda,  the  valley 
opens  out  into  a  circular  plain  of 
which  that  town  is  the  centre. 

Ueda  (Inns,  Kame-ya,  Shishi-ya) 
possesses  few  attractions.  "White 
and  other  silks  of  a  dumble  nature, 
but  wanting  in  gloss  and  finish,  are 
the  principal  products  of  the  dis- 
trict. It  is  specially  noted  for  a 
stout  striped  silk  fabric  called 
Ueda-jima. 

[The  Ndkasendo  may  be  joined  at 
Nagakubo  by  a  jinrikisharoad 
from  Ueda,  distance  about  11^ 
ri, 

A  carriage  road  also  turns 
off  about  the  middle  of  the 
town  by  the  Hofukuji-toge  to 
Matsumoto,  whence  a  jinri- 
kisha  road  leads  to  Shima- 
shima  at  the  foot  of  the  Hida 
range  of  mountains. 

Itinerary. 
Ueda  to :  Ri.  Cho.  M. 

Matsumoto...  11     25    28i 
Shimashima..    5    —    12^ 


Total  ...  16    25    40| 


The  average  time  taken  by 
carriage  to  Matsumoto  is  6  hrs. 
At  the  top  of  the  hiU  just 
before  descending  into  the 
town,  one  of  the  finest  moun- 
tain views  in  Japan  is  obtained. 
The- whole  Hida  range  spreads 
out  before  the  spectator, .  Yari- 
ga-take  being  specially  con- 
spicuous. In  the  foreground 
are  well-wooded  hills,  and  in 
the  distance  the  river  winds 
like  a  silver  thread. 

MatRnnioto  (Inns  *Shinano- 
ya,  Kome-ya)  is  one  of  the  most 
impoi*tant  towns  in  Shinshu, 
being  the  centre  of  commei'ce 
between  the  S.  part  of  this 
province  and  the  province  of 


Echigo.    Some  of  the  best  Bilk: 
in  Japan  is  produced  here.    Its 
other  principal  manufactures 
are  a  kind  of  cotton  cloth  called 
shibori,     candied     fruit,     and 
baskets  and  boxes  of  bamboo 
work.    Matsumoto  became    a, 
castle-town  early  in  the  16tli 
century,  and  was  the  seat  of  & 
a  Daimyo   called   Matsudairsk 
Tamba-no-Kami.    The  greatep 
part  of  the  castle  is  still  pre- 
served.   It  is  only  5  min.  from 
the  inns,  and  should  be  visited 
if  only  for  the  view  of  the  Hid& 
range    and    the    Matsumoto 
plam  which  is  obtaiued  from 
the    top    storey.      The    chief 
sights  of-  Matsumoto   are  the 
Shinto  temple  of  Hdchiman  and 
the  Buddhist  temple  of  Shogyo- 
ji.      Thirty    cho  from  Matsu- 
moto, at  the  vill.  of  Asama,  are 
some    hot-springs    much    re- 
sorted to  by  the  towns-folk. 

Shimashima  (Inn  by  Oku- 
hara  Jinzo).  This  is  the  best 
place  from  which  to  ascend 
Yari-ga-take  (see  Koute  34, 
Section  8).  Just  across  the 
stream  lies  the  village  of 
Hashiba,  where  there  is  a  small 
inn  called  Shimizu-ya  perched 
above  the  torrent.] 

The  old  castle  t)f  Ueda,  of  which 
one  watch-tower  still  remains  in- 
t-act,  stands  on  the  river  bank 
beyond  the  town,  and  forms  a 
striking  feature  in  the  landscape 
as  the  train  leaves  the  station.  The 
exit  from  the  amphitheatre  of  hills 
enclosing  Ueda  is  narrow  and 
hidden  from  view.  Just  before 
the  line  turns  into  it,  a  curious 
bluff  with  a  cave  in  its  face  is 
noticeable  on  the  other  side  of  the 
river.    At 

Yashiro  a  road  branches  off  to 
the  important  town  of  Matsvuhiro 
and  down  the  r.  bank  of  the  Chiku- 
ma-gawa to  Niigata.  Before  reach- 
ing Nagano,  both  the  Chikuma- 
gawa  and  the  Saigawa  are  crossed. 


Nagano,     Temple  of  Zenkoji, 


221 


The  head-waters  of  the  latter  are 
near  Lake  Suwa.  It  flows  past 
Matsumoto,  joining  the  Ghikuma- 
^awa  a  short  distance  to  the  S.E.  of 
3^agano,  and  forming  with  this 
larger  stream  the  great  Shinano- 
^wa  which  enters  the  sea  at  Nii- 
>^ata.  One  of  the  spans  in  the 
Sai^wa  viaduct  is  200  ft.  in  length. 
Nagano  or  Zenkoji  (Inns,  *Ogiya, 
*Fuji-ya,  with  branches  at  the 
station ;  Puji-yahas  rooms  fitted  up 
in  foreign  style  at  its  establishment 
near  the  temples ;  the  Japanese 
Club  called  Tosan-kvxin,  which  has  a 
room  of  144  mats,  commands  a  fine 
view  of  the  town  and  plain)  is  the 
<3apital  of  the  prefecture  of  Nagano, 
"which  comprises  the  whole  pro- 
vince of  Shinshu.  It  is  beautifully 
situated  at  the  foot  of  lofty  moun- 
tains, which  form  an  imposing  back- 
ground and  almost  surround  it.  A 
•considerable  trade  is  done  in  woven 
goods  and  agricultural  implements. 
Numerous  fine  buildings  in 
foreign  style,  and  the  crowds  of 
pilgrims  thronging  the  streets, 
give  the  town  an  air  of  exceptional 
prosperity.  The  Buddhist  temple 
of  Zenkoji  is  one  of  the  most  cele- 
brated in  Japan.  It  is  dedicated 
to  Amida  and  his  two  followers, 
Kwannon  and  Daiseishi  (the  latter 
a,  Bosatsu  belonging  to  the  retinue 
of  Amida),  a  group  of  whose  images 
is  here  enshrined. 

This  sacred  group  is  said  to  have  been 
made  by  Shaka  Muni  himself  out  of  gold 
found  on  Mount  Shumi,  the  centre  of  the 
Universe.  After  various  vicissitudes  in 
China  and  Korea,  it  was  brought  to  Japan 
in  A.D.  552,  as  a  present  from  the  King  of 
Korea  to  the  Mikado  on  the  first  introduc- 
tion of  Buddhism  into  Japan.  All  the 
efforts  of  the  Japanese  enemies  of  Bud- 
4lhisni  to  make  away  with  the  image  were 
in  vain.  Thrown  into  rivers,  hacked  at, 
l)umt,  it  survived  all  and  finally  found  a 
resting-place  at  Zenkoji  in  A.D.  6U2. 

The  building  1.  of  the  entrance 
is  the  residence  of  an  abbess  of 
high  rank  and  a  sisterhood  of  nuns. 
Bows  of  shops  for  the  sale  of 
rosaries  and  pictures  of  the  triple 
image  line  the  court.    Behind  the 


shops  are  the  houses  of  the  priests* 
each  in  its  own  neatly  arranged 
garden.  At'  the  end  of  this  court 
is  the  chief  gateway,  with  images 
of  Monju  and  the  Shi  Tenno,  which 
are  exhibited  only  on  New  Year's 
day.  The  Main  Temple,  erected 
in  1701,  is  a  two-storied  building^ 
198  ft.  in  depth  by  10»  ft.  in 
width,  with  a  huge  three-gabled 
roof,  so  that  the  ridge  is  T-shaped. 
This  £oi*m  is  called  shumoku^ 
zukuriy  from  its  resemblance  to  the 
shumokuy  a  wooden  hammer  with 
which  the  Buddhists  strike  the 
small  bell  used  by  them  in 
their  religious  services.  The  roof  is 
supported  by  136  pillars,  and  there ' 
are  said  to  be  69,384  rafters,  the 
same  number  as  that  of  the  written 
characters  contained  in  the  Chinese 
version  of  the  Buddhist  scriptures. 
At  the  entrance  two  beautiful  new 
marble  lamps,  about  6  ft.  in  height* 
deserve  inspection.  The  sacred 
golden  group,  standing  in  a  chapel 
on  the  W.  side,  is  kept  in  a  shrine 
dating  from  A.D.  1369,  shrouded  by 
a  gorgeous  brocade  curtain.  For 
a  small  fee,  the  curtain  is  raised 
so  as  to  show  the  outermost  of  the 
seven  boxes  in  which  the  image  is 
enclosed.  A  space  of  88  mats  (about 
1,600  sq.  ft.)  is  set  apart  for 
the  worshippers.  On  the  E.  side 
of  the  main  hall  is  an  entrance  to 
a  dark  gallery  which  runs  round 
below  the  floor  of  the  chancel 
(naijin),  issuing  again  by  the 
same  door.  To  complete  this 
circuit  (kaidan-mawari)  thrice  is 
considered  highly  meritorious. 
More  than  200  bronze  and  stone 
lanterns  crowd  the  space  in  froilt 
of  the  main  hall. 

The  principal  festivals  are  the 
Dai  Nembvisuy  or  Great  Invocation 
of  Buddha,  held  on  the  31st  July, 
those  held  at  the  vernal  and  au- 
tumnal equinoxes,  and  one  on  the 
14th  March,  in  commemoration  of 
the  terrible  earthquake  of  1847. 

This    catastrophe   occurred  about    10 
o'clock  at  night,  and  threw  down  moat  of 


Itoute  32, — The  Kandzaiva-Naoetsu  Bailicay. 


tbe  bouses  in  the  town.  Fires  broke  oat 
simnltaueoaslj  in  many  quarters,  and  in 
the  space  of  two  da^^s  bomt  the  whole 
place  to  the  ground,  with  the  exception  of 
the  main  temple,  the  two-storied  gatehouse, 
library,  and  bell-tower.  A  more  serious 
calamity  still  followed  shortly  afterwards; 
for  the  8aigHwa,  which  had  ))eeu  blocked 
near  Shimmachi  by  the  fall  of  a  large 
mass  of  earth  from  the  hill-sides,  burst 
through  the  obstruction  on  the  27th,  and 
the  pent-up  waters  spread  like  a  deluge 
over  the  level  valley,  overwhelming  many 
Tillages  and  drowning  by  thousands  the 
peasants  who,  regardless  of  warnings 
from  the  authorities,  had  returned  to 
tiH  the  fields.  A}x>ut  15,noo  acres  of 
nce>fields  and  other  arable  laud  were 
flevastated  by  the  flood,  and  the  number 
of  those  who  perished  on  these  two  occa- 
sions was  estmiated  at  nearly  30,U00. 

On  the  r.  of  the  temple  enclosure, 
is  the  Public  Oarden  which  com- 
mands a  good  view  of  the  vaUey. 

EXCUBBIONS   FROM  NaGANO. 

1.  Bnrando  Yaknshi,  1  ri  N.E. 

of  the  town,  a  shrine  dedicated  to 
the  Buddhist  god  of  medecine,  is 
perched  high  above  the  path  in  a 
large  tree  growing  out  of  the  rock. 
Close  by  are  some  petroleum  springs. 

2.  Togakiishi-san  and  Ken-no- 
mine.  Five  ri  from  Zenkoji  is  the 
temple  of  Togahishi-san,  whither  the 
god  Tajikara-o-no-Mikoto  is  said  to 
have  hurled  the  rocky  door  of  the 
cavern  in  which  the  Sun-Goddess 
had  hidden  herseK  from  her  sub- 
jects in  heaven  and  earth.  The 
road,  which  is  passable  for  jinriki- 
shas  drawn  by  two  men,  leaves  the 
town  on  the  1.  side  of  the  temple, 
and  ascends  a  narrow  ravine  to  the 
hamlet  of  Arayasu  in  about  f  hr. 
Then  winding  over  low  hills  and 
ascending  for  f  hr.  more,  it  issues 
on  to  a  moor  which  encircles  the 
base  of  Izuna-san.  In  f  hr.  more, 
a  torii  is  reached  at  the  highest 
point  of  the  moor.  The  path 
then  descends  for  over  a  mile  to  a 
point  where  it  divides,  the  r.  branch 
proceeding  direct  to  the  Chu-in, 
the  1.  reaching  the  Hoko-in  after  12 
cho  more.  The  latter  temple, 
situated  at  the  top  of  a  long  flight  of 
flteps  lined  with  old  cryptomerias^ 


is  a  large  building  decorated  with 
wood  carvings  of  considerable  merit. 
From  this  point  to  the  Chu-in  is  a 
walk  of  12  cho  through  the  wood. 
Those  who  intend  to  chmb  JTen-no- 
mi7^e,  the  highest  point  of  the  moun- 
tain behind  Togakushi,  will  do  best 
to  pass  the  night  here.  The  priest 
will  provide  good  accommodation. 
The  road  to  the  Oku-no-in  (dOchoi 
is  pretty  level  the  whole  way,  ex- 
cept during  the  last  few  hundred 
yards.  The  priest's  house  com- 
mands a  fine  view,  including 
the  summits  of  Fuji  and  Asama. 
Half-way  between  the  bridge  and 
the  red  gateway  on  the  road  to  the 
Oku-no-in,  a  path  branches  off  r. 
under  a  wooden  torii  to  Ken-no- 
mine.  A  walk  of  about  3  ri  leads 
to  the  summit,  below  which  is  a 
hut  where  pilgrims  pass  the  night, 
in  order  to  rise  early  and  witness 
Himrise  from  the  peak  whence 
Amida  is  supposed  to  be  visible 
riding  on  a  cloud  of  many  colours. 
Snow  lies  on  the  mountain  until 
late  in  summer,  and  the  ascent  is 
not  usually  attempted  before  the 
beginning  of  July. 

3.  Izuna-san,  or  liznna-san,  as 

the  name  is  also  pronounced,  may  be 
ascended  either  from  Arayasu  or 
from  the  Chu-in ;  but  the  latter  is 
preferable,  as  the  climb  from  Ara- 
yasu is  steep.  From  the  Chu-in, 
the  summit  is  easily  gained  in  1^ 
hr.  by  walking  up  a  long  spur. 
The  view  is  very  extensive  in  every 
direction.  The  traveller  may  re- 
tiu*n  either  to  Arayasu  by  descend- 
ing the  steep  path  on  the  opposite 
side,  easily  pei-ceived  from  the 
mountain  top,  or  strike  away  to 
the  1.  by  a_path  leading  across 
the  moor  to  Of urunia  on  the  Hok- 
koku  Kaido,  and  close  to  Kashiwa- 
bara  station, — a  3  hrs.  walk. 

The  railway  from  Nagano  conti- 
nues along  the  plain  as  far  as 

Toyono.  Here  it  enters  a  narrow 
valley,  which  it  follows  up  until 
Kashiwabara  is  reached  at  a  height 


Lake  Nojm,     AkaJciira, 


22a 


of  2,204  ft.  At  Toyono  a  road  leads 
over  the  Shibu-toge  to  Kusatsu 
(see  p.  149).  A  fine  view  is 
obtained  of  Izuna  on  the  1.  as 
Kasliiwabara  is  approached.  This 
section  of  the  line  traverses  a 
le^on  where  the  snow-fall  is  es- 
pecially heavy,  and  where  it  occa- 
sionally accumulates  to  a  depth  of 
over  10  ft.  In  the  winter  of  1890- 
91  the  traffic  was  entirely  stopped 
daring  several  weeks. 

[The  traveller  with  time  to  spare 
should  alight  here  to  visit  the 
beautiful  little  lake  called 
Niijiri-ko,  2i  m.  distant.  As 
the  accommodation  at  the  vill. 
of  Nojiri  is  very  poor,  it  will 
be  well  to  arrange  one's  plans 
so  as  to  catch  a  train  at  Tagii- 
chi,  the  next  station,  or  to 
proceed  to  the  hamlet  of  Aha- 
hura,  situated  on  the  side  of 
Myoko-zan  and  noted  for  its 
hot-springs.  Akakura  is  also 
the  point  from  which  the  asc^ent 
of  Myoko-zan  is  most  easily 
made.  Kashiwabara  station 
lies  some  distance  from  the 
miserable  vill.  of  the  same 
name.  The  walk  from  the 
latter  is  through  a  pleasant 
oak  wood,  whence  the  road 
descends  slightly  to 

Nojiri  {Inn,  Katsura-ya), 
pictiiesquely  situated  on  the 
shores  of  the  lake  which  is 
surrounded  by  low  hills  covered 
with  thickets."  On  a  densely 
wooded  islet,  approached  by 
a  bridge  about  ^  m.  in  length, 
is  a  temple  called  Uga-no- 
Jinja.  In  front  of  the  temple 
stand  two 'magnificent  cedars, 
one  of  which  measures  27  ft. 
in  circumference.  The  view  of 
the  giant  masses  of  Izuna, 
Kurohime,  and  Myoko-zan,  as 
seen  from  the  island,  is  ex- 
ceptionally fine.  This  romantic 
little  spot  is  only  prevented 
from  becoming  a  favourite  sum- 
mer resort  by  its  remote  situa- 


tion and  the  want  of  decent 
inns.  Good  bathing  may  be 
had  in  the  lake,  and  the  roads 
in  the  neighbourhood  are  all 
that  one  could  desire.  The 
lake  sometimes  freezes  at  the 
end  of  January,  when  the  ice 
becomes  passable  for  men  and 
horses.  Its  waters  find  an 
outlet  into  the  Sekigawa, 
which,  flowing  from  sources  on 
Togakushi-san  and  Yakeyama,. 
falls  into  the  sea  at  Naoetsu  in 
Echigo. 

From  Nojiri  to  Akakura  is  a 
walk  of  2  hrs.  But  jinrikishas. 
may  be  taken  to  the  vill.  of 
TagiH  on  the  main  road,, 
whence,  turning  sharp  1.  over 
the  lower  grassy  slopes  of 
Myoko-zan,  it  is  a  distance  of 
23  cho  to  the  baths.  Leaving- 
Nojiri,  the  road  descends  to  the 
small  town  of  Sekigawa,  named 
after  the  river  and  situated 
at  the  junction  of  two  pictur- 
esque wooded  glens,  where  the 
tori-ent  rushes  under  the 
branches  of  trees  overhang- 
ing it  on  either  side.  This  river 
—  the  Sekigawa  —  here  forms 
the  boundary  between  the 
provinces  of  Echigo  and  Shin- 
shxL.  A  short  distance  beyond 
the  town  of  Sekigawa,  a  road 
branches  off  r.  to  Tagiiclli 
station,  the  nearest  point  on 
the  line  of  railway  for  Aka- 
kura. 

Akakura  is  a  favourite  re- 
sort of  the  inhabitants  of 
Takata  and  other  places  on 
the  plain  during  a  part  of 
August  and  September.  It 
possesses  an  excellent  inn,  the 
Kogaku-ro,  boasting  a  gigantic 
bath,  which  is  supplied  with  hot 
water  brought  in  pipes  from 
sources  2  n  further  up  the 
mountain.  This  inn  is  closed 
during  the  winter  months. 
The  other  inns  are  of  an  in- 
ferior  description.  From  the 
hamlet  nothing  obstructs  the 


•224 


Eoiite  32. — The  Karuizawa-Naoetsu  Railway, 


glorious  prospect  of  the  rich 
plain  extending  down  to 
Naoetsu  on  the  Sea  of  Japan, 
and  of  the  island  of  Sado  on 
the  dim  horizon.  About  3  ri 
off,  between  Kurohime '  and 
Myoko-zan,  is  a  large  waterfall 
called  Nae  iw  taki.  As  ah*eady 
indicated,  Akakura  is  the  most 
convenient  point  from  which 
to  make  the  ascent  of 

My oku-zaii  (8,180  ft.).    This 
mountain  is  not  free  from  snow 
until  July,  but  may  be  climbed 
with   safety  in  June   by  any 
one  properly  equipped  for  as- 
cending   and  descending    the 
enow-slopes.      The    necessary 
appliances  consist  of  a  stout 
alpenstock      and      hob-nailed 
boats,  or,  instead  of  the  latter, 
waraji   (straw-sandals),    under 
which  must  be  fastened  metal 
points   called  kana-kanjiki.     A 
iruide  should  he  engaged,  and 
instead   of  ascending  by  the 
pilgrim's    path,   which  is  ex- 
tremely  steep  and  overgrown 
with   tall   bamboo  grass,  the 
path  to    the   solfatara   under 
Akakura-yama  should  be  taken. 
This  also  lies  through  the  same 
sort  of  canebi*ake,  but  has  the 
advantage  of  rising  very  gently 
and    of    being    shorter   than 
the  other.   From  the  solfatara, 
where  two  springs  of  very  high 
temperature  gush  forth,  a  steep 
gully,  filled  in  early  June  with 
snow  has  to  be  ascended,  and 
the  main  path  is  entered  at  a 
point    where  it  is  no  longer 
difficult  or  steep.     One  or  two 
snow-slopes  are  crossed,  and  a 
rocky  precipice  scaled,  to  which 
iron  chains  have  been  fixed  in 
order    to     enable    the  moun- 
taineer   to    pass    along    the 
narrow  ledges — no  more  than 
2    inches   wide — which    here 
serve    as    a    path.      It  is  at 
such  places  that    the    super- 
iority of  the  waraji  and  kan- 
jiki  over   nailed  boots,  which 


afford    no    sure    foothold    on. 
rocks,  becomes  evident.   Above 
the  last  snow-slope  very  little 
remains  to  be  done,  and  the 
track  which  ascends  the  crum- 
bling rock  of  the  summit  by 
natural  steps  is  perfectly  safe, 
though  somewhat  steep.   Myo- 
ko-zan  is  part  of  an  extinct  vol- 
cano.    The      mountains     im- 
mediately surrounding  it  axe 
the   long    semi-circular  ridge 
called  Myoko-zan-no-Urayftma, 
or  the  'Hind-part  of  Myoko-zan/ 
on  the  S.  E.,  and  Kanna-yaiiia 
on  the  N.     Other  solfataras, 
besides  that    mentioned,    are 
found  on  the  mountain.   Hares, 
which  turn  white  during  the 
winter,   abound ;     bears     and 
sheep-faced  antelope  are  also 
occasionally  caught.    Water  is 
found  at  the  very  summit,  on 
which  is  a  small  wooden  cha}>el 
dedicated  to  Amida.    The  view- 
to  the  S.E.   includes    Asama 
and  Fuji.      Directly   S.   rises 
Kurohime  with  its  two  peaks, 
between  which  is  seen  the  top 
of    Izuna-san.      Ken-no-mine 
bears  about  S.S.W.,  and  the 
round-topped  mountain  bear- 
ing   W.N.W.    is     Yakeyama^  ^ 
reputed  to  be  an  extinct  vol- 
cano.   To  the  N.E.,  the  view 
lies  over  the  plain  of  Echiga 
to  the  Sea  of  Japan  and  the 
Island  of  Sado.    Not  less  than 
7  hrs.  should  be  allowed  for  the 
ascent  and  descent,  the  latter 
being  steep    and   slippery  in 
many  places.    The  mountain 
is    much    frequented    by   pil- 
grims     during     the     season, 
especially  on  the  23rd  night 
of  the  6tli  moon,  old  calendiGur, 
when    they  ascend   in    great 
numbers  by  torchlight  from  the 
villages  on    the    surrounding' 
plains,  but  do  not  pass  through 
Akakura. — From    Akakuiti    a 
path  descends  through  Fnta- 
mata,  (26  cho)  to  Sekiyama,  1^ 
ri.  The  path  to  Taguchi  station 


Myokd'zan,     KaoeUni  to  Xiigata. 


225 


is  shorter,  but  the  difference  has 
to  be  made  up  by  rail.] 

There  is  a  falling  gradient  of 
Skbout  600  ft.  in  the  4i  m.  traversed 
"between  Taguchi  and^ 

Sekiyaina  (Inn,  Ogi-ya).  The 
ascent  of  Mydko-zan  may  also  be 
made  from  here,  but  it  involves  a 
longer  walk  over  the  moor  than 
from  Akakura. '  The  gradient  is 
still  heavy  until  Aral  is  reached, 
"where  the  country  becomes  flatter. 

Aral  is  a  flourishing  town  noted 
for  tobacco,  pueraria  starch  {hixu), 
and  petroleum,  which  last  is  ob- 
tained from  springs  in  the  neigh- 
l>ourhood.  Here  is  first  seen  the 
custom  peculiar  to  most  of  the 
towns  in  Echigo,  of  covered  ways  ^ 
Along  the  house-fronts,  for  use  when 
the  snow  lies  deep  in  the  streets. 

Takata  {Inn,  Koyo-kwan)  is  a 
large  place,  formerly  the  castle- 
town  of  a  Daimyo  named  Sakaki- 
liara,  one  of  the  four  families  who 
enjoyed  the  privilege  of  provyiing 
a  regent  during  the  minority  of  a 
Shogun.  The  town  is  traversed  by 
a  long  street,  which  bends  re- 
peatedly at  right  angles.  Cotton- 
"treaving  is  extensively  carried  on. 
The  Hokkoku  Kaido  branches  off  1. 
near  here  to  the  provinces  of  Kaga, 
Xchizen,  etc.  (see  Route  33). 

Naoetsil  (Innsy  Matsuba-kwan, 
Tamazald-ya),  situated  at  the 
mouth  of  the  Sekigawa,  is  a  port 
of  call  for  steamers  to  Niigata, 
Tnshiki,  and  other  places  on  the 
"West  Coast.  It  is  also  at  present 
•the  terminus  of  the  railway  which 
will  ultimately  reach  Niigata,  about 
94  m.  distant.  This  line,  opening 
up  one  of  the  richest  provinces  of 
Japan^  is  no  less  important  for 
strategical  reasons.  It  will  practi- 
cally bring  Niigata  within  one  day 
of  the  capital.  Tunnels  are  to  be 
cat  at  several  places  on  the  coast 
l)etween  Hassaki  and  Kashiwa- 
saki.  Naoetsu  produces .  a  jelly 
called  awa-ame,  made  from  millet, 
and  appreciated  by  both  Japanese 
and  Europeans. 


About  1  ri  to  the  S.  of  Naoetsu 
lies  the  vill.  of  Qochi  (Inn,  Shimizu- 
ya),  a  favourite  resort  during  the 
hot  weather,  where  several  good 
tea-houses  have  been  built  on  the 
cliffs  overlooking  the  sea.  Ex- 
cellent bathing  may  be  had  on  the 
long  stretch  of  sandy  beach  imme- 
diately below. 

The  traveller  wishing  to  reach 
Niigata,  has  a  variety  of  routes  to- 
choose  from.  The  easiest  way  is 
to  go  direct  by  steamer  which 
leaves  Naoetsu  daily,  from  April 
to  November,  calling  at  Kashiwa- 
zaki,  Izumosaki,  and  Teradomari. 
The  whole  distance  by  sea  is  34 
ri,  and  is  accomplished  in  9  hrs. 
The  distance  by  land  is  a  trifle 
less,  leading  for  the  greater  part 
along  either  the  sandy  beach  or  a 
ridge  of  sand-hills.  The  whole  of 
this  coast  as  far  as  Teradomari 
{Inn,  Oshiki-ya),  is  inhabited  by  a 
population  of  hardy  fishermen;  and 
the  sea  yields  sea-bream  (tai),  plaice 
(fcdrei),  and  a  kind  of  brill  (hirame),. 
in  large,  quantities  and  of  great 
size.  The  fish  caught  here  are 
considered  much  superior  in  flavour 
to  those  taken  off  the  coast  of 
Etchu  further  Wefat.  The  women 
are  strong  and  capable  of  the 
hardest  toil.  They  usually  per- 
form the  labour  of  porters,  and  even 
drag  carts.  Muslin  made  of  hemp,, 
and  called  Echigo  chijimi,  is  woven 
in  the  neighbouring  villages,  and 
generally  dyed  indigo  colour  with 
a  faint  pattern  in  white.  The 
Japanese  esteem  it  highly  as  mate- 
rial for  summer  clothing. 

The  journey  may  also  be  divided 
between  the  sea,  the  road,  and  the 
river  by  leaving  the  steamer  at 
Kashiwazaki  {Inn,  Tenkyo),  10  ri 
from  Naoetsu,  where  a  road 
branches  off  to  Nagaoka  (Inn,  Masu- 
ya),  7  ri,  from  which  place,  and 
calling  at  8anjb  (Inn,  Chochin-ya), 
the  river  steamers  take  5  or  6  hrs. 
to  Niigata.    * 

Or    continuing    the  sea    rout^ 


226 


Route  32, — Niigata*     Island  of  Sado, 


to  Izumosaki  (Inn,  Kakinoki-ya), 
£i  shorter  land  journey  may  be 
made  to  Toita  (Inn,  Shiojin),  3  n, 
where  also  the  river  is  reached,  and 
from  which  Niigata  is  about  14 
ri  distance  by  steamer. 

The  itinerary  by  road  for  the 
whole  distance  is  as  follows. 

NAOETSU  to :—  Ri.  Cho.  M. 

Kuroi —  35  2} 

Katamachi  1  29  4| 

Kakizaki  2  33  7 

Hassaki 1  24  4 

Aomigawa 2  27  6| 

Kashiwazaki  1  34  4f 

Arahama 1  18  3f 

Shiiya 2  —  5 

Izumosaki 2  29  6| 

Yamada 1  23  4 

Teradomari 1  22  4 

Yahiko 3  7  7f 

Takenomachi  .......  2  9  5i^ 

Akatsuka 1  22  4 

Uchino 1  23  4 

NIIGATA 3  19  8.J 

Total 33    30  82^ 


I4ii$rata  (Hotel  by  Miola  called 
Restaurant  International ;  Inns, 
Yoshi-kwan,  Kushisei),  capital  of 
the  prefecture  of  the  same  name, 
is  situated  on  a  narrow,  sandy 
strip  of  land  between  the  Shinano- 
gawa  and  the  sea. 

Niij3:ata  was  opened  to  forei^  trade 
in  1869;  but  the  commercial  eipecta- 
tions  formed  with  regard  to  it  have 
not  been  fulfilled,  and  the  only  foreign- 
ers jiow  residing  there  are  a  few  mis- 
sionaries. Owing  to  the  bar  at  the 
mouth  of  .the  river,  vessels  of  foreign 
build  cannot  enter  the  port,  but  are 
"Compelled  to  anchor  in  the  roadstead, 
outside.  A  supplementary  port  in  the  Is- 
land of  Sado,called  Ebim-Mimtto,  is  open  to 
foreign  vessels  to  take  refuge  in  when  the 
^lirection  of  the  prevailing  wind  renders 
it  dangerous  to  anchor  off  Niigata ;  but 
trade  is  not  permitted  there.  The  climate 
of  Niigata  is  very  trying,— hot  in  summer 
and  tenibly  cold  in  winter,  snow  falling 
to  a  depth  of  2  or  3  ft.,  and  lying  for  a 
considerable  time. 

The  town,  which  covers  an  area 
of  rather  more  than  1  sq.  mile. 


consists  of  five  parallel  streefts 
intersected  by  other  streets  and 
canals.  A  line  of  low  sand-hills 
shuts  out  all  view  of  the  sea. 
The  houses  are  built  with  their 
gable  ends  towards  tbe  street,  and 
the. roof 8  are  prolonged  beyond  the 
walls  in  order  to  prevent  the  snow 
from  blocking  up  the  windows, 
A  great  quantity  of  coarse  lac- 
quer ware  is  manufactured  a^ 
Niigata,  and  articles  of  a  peculiajr 
pattern  called  mokusa-nuri,  or  *  sea- 
weed lacquer,'  are  brought  for  sale 
from  the  district  of  Aizu  where 
they  are  produced.  In  the  neigh- 
bourhood of  the  city,  Echigo  chijifni 
is  manufactured  from  liemp.  From 
the  small  public  garden  surround- 
ing the  Shinto  temple  of  Haka- 
san,  there  is  a  fine  prospect  of  the 
river  and  of  the  lofty  range  of 
mountains  some  10  ri  distant  to 
theE. 

The  chief  excursion  in  the  neigh- 
bourhood is  to  the  kerosene  wells 
of  Niitsu,  about  5  ri  distant. 

Travellers  intending  to  proceed 
north  from  Niigata,  are  advised  to 
take  steamer  to  Sakata,  Funakawa^ 
or  Hakodate;  or  else  they  may  fol- 
low Boute  28  to  Tsuru-ga-oks, 
whence  across  country  to  Sendai 
on  the  Northern  KaUway. 

Island  op  Sado. 

The  Island  of  Sado,  which  lies  32 
miles  W.  of  Niigata,  can  be  reached 
by  small  steamer  from  the  latter 
place  in  about  5  hrs.  Steamers  nm 
daily  from  May  to  October ;  for  the 
rest  of  the  year  the  sailings  are 
irregular.  Sado  forms  part  of  the 
prefectiu-e  of  Niigata,  has  a  popula- 
tion  of  111,000,  and  is  princi- 
pally noted  for  its  gold  and  silver 
mines  situated  close  to  the  town  of 
Aikawa.  These  mines  have  been 
worked  from  the  earliest  times. 
During  the  middle  ages,  Sado  was 
used  as  a  place  of  exile  for  political 
criminals.  Among  those  who  were 
relegated  to  its  inhospitable  shores 


Route  33, — West  Coast  from  Tswuga  to  Naoetsu,         227 


was  the  Buddhist  saint^  Nichiren. 
The  island  is  very  hilly,  consisting 
of  two  groups  of  mountains,  se- 
parated by  a  cultivated  plain.  The 
principal  formation  is  limestone. 

Aikawa  (Inn,  Takada-ya),  though 
it  has  a  population  of  13,000,  is  a 
poor-looking  pla<;e. 

Ebisu  (Inn  by  Ito  Seiemon),  where 
passengers  from  Niigata  generally 
land,  is  a  large  but  wretched  vill., 
situated  on  a  narrow  strip  of  beach 
between  the  sea  and  a  lagoon. 
The  distance  from  Ebisu  to  Ai- 
kawa is  6  ri  29  cho  (I62  m.). 


ROUTE  83. 

The  West  Coast  from  Tsuruga 
TO  Naoetsu. 

1.  itineraries  :  MAIBARA-TSURUOA 
BRANCH  RAILWAY,  TSURUGA  TO 
FUSHIKI,  PUSHIKI  TO  NAOETSU. 
2.  DESCRIPTION  :  T8URUGA,  PU- 
KUI,  KANAZAWA,  FUSHIKI,  [nANAO 
IN  NOTO,]  TOTAMA. 

1.  Itineraries. 

A  four  or  five  days'  trip,  enabling 
the  traveller  to  see  something  of 
the  coast  of  the  provinces  of  Echi- 
zen,  Kaga,  and  Etchu  on  the  Sea 
of  Japan,  is  that  from  Kyoto  to 
Tsuruga  by  the  Tokaido  and  Mai- 
bara-Tsuruga  Railways,  through 
the  historic  old  city  of  Kanazawa 
in  Kaga  to  the  port  of  Fushiki  in 
£tchti«  whence  Naoetsu,  the  present 
terminus  of  the  Karuizawa-Naoetsu 
Bailway«  can  be  reached  by  steamer 


in  a  night.  The  entire  distance 
between  Tsuruga  and  Fushiki  may 
be  accomplished  in  jinrikishas,  bat 
it  is  rough  travelling. 

Maibara-Tsuruoa  Branch 
Railway. 


I       r 


w  _  /^ 

Names 

fl  BS 

of 

Remarks. 

3    W 

Stations. 

45m. 
49^- 

MAIBARA  

See  Eoute  38. 
See  Route  44. 

Naga,hama 

56i 

Takatsuki. 

57i 

Inokiichi. 

59 

Kinomoto. 

6ii 

Nakanogo. 

64f 

Yanagase. 

71 

Hikida. 

75i 

Tsuruga. 

76 

KANA-QA-SAKI. 

(Pier  Station). 

Itinerary  from  Tsuruoa  to 
Fushiki. 

TSURUOAto:—      Ri.  CU.  M. 

Daira-ura  6  4    15 

Takefu    4  35     12|: 

FUKUI 5  4    m 

SAKAI   5  —    124^ 

Kanatsu 2  15      6 

Yossaki  2  23      6^ 

Daishoji 2  18      6 

Komatsu    5  —    12|- 

Matto 5  8    12i 

KANAZAWA   ...     4  28    Hi 

Imaisurugi    6  32    16f 

Takaoka 4  3    10 

FUSHIKI 2  4      6i 

Total  56  30  139 


The  best  plan  in  fine  weather, 
however,  is  to  abandon  the  land 
for  the  sea  during  a  portion  of  this 
journey,  by  taking  steamer  from 
Tsuruga  to  Sakai,  a  run  of  4  hrs. 

In  the  event  of  the  steamer 
between  Fushiki  and  Naoetsu  not 
being  available,  the  following  is 
the  itinerary  by  road ;  but  travel- 
lers are  warned  that  the  road  is 
mostly  dull. 


228         Boute  33, — West  Coast  from  Tmmga  to  Xaoetsu, 


PTTSHIKI  to :—  RL  Oho.  M. 

Higashi  Iwase  ...  3"  5  7f 

Namerikawa 3  6  7f 

XJotsu 2  8  5^ 

Tomari    7  29  19 

Itoigawa 9  6  22J 

Nagahaina 9  8  22J 

NAOETSU 2  18  6 

Total  37  8  90| 


2. — Description. 

The  railway  journey  between 
Kyoto  and  Maibara  is  described  in 
fioute  38;  and  the  shores  of  Lake 
Biwa,  as  far  as  the  next  station^ 
Nagahama,  in  Route  44. 

At  Xagahamu  {Inn,  Masu-ya  at 
station),  the  railway  leaves  the 
lake  and  the  scenery  becomes  tame. 
From  Tanagase  onward  to  Hikida 
the  line  runs  in  narrow  valleys 
between  wooded  hills  and  through 
several  tunnels ;  thence  through 
cultivated  country  down  to  the 
coast  of  the  Sea  of  Japan. 

TsiiriijBrA  has  two  stations,  one 
called  Tsuruga,  another,  5  min. 
further  on,  called 

Kana-ga-saki,  or  the  Pier  Sta- 
tion. The  latter  {Inns,  Daikoku- 
ya,  Sankai-ro)  shoiiild  be  preferred, 
as  the  steamer-office,  bank,  and 
other  useful  institutions  are  in 
its  vicinity.  Tsuruga  has  the 
best  harbour  on  the  Sea  of 
Japan,  and  is  in  constant  steam 
communication  with  the  lesser 
ports  up  and  down  the  coast.  The 
town  itself  is  somewhat  shut  in ; 
but  a  charming  view  of  land  and 
sea  is  to  be  obtained  by  climbing 
a  little  hill  near  the  railway  sta- 
tion called  Atago-yama,  beyond 
which  again  is  the  site  of  the 
castle  of  the  celebrated  warrior 
Yoshisada.  The  long  promontory 
closing  in  the  bay  on  the  W.  side, 
and  sheltering  it  from  those  N.  W. 
blasts  that  render  the  winter  on 
this  coast  so  terrible,  is  called 
Tateishi-zaki.  On  its  extremity 
stands  a  lighthouse — ^not,  however^ 


visible  from  the  town.  The  streteli 
of  land  to  the  N.  E.,  which  looks 
like  a  promontory  as  seen  from 
Tsuruga,  is  called  Kome-no-ura. 

At  Paira-iira  the  road  leaves 
the  coast  and  strikes  inland.  Xt 
improves  somewhat  after  reaching 

Takefii  (Inn,  Tatami-ya).  This 
place  manufactures  marbled  paper, 
cotton,  silk,  and  hardware.  One  of 
the  most  striking  objects  in  the^ 
neighbourhood  is  the  moimtain 
of  Hina-ga-take. 

Fiikiii     (Inns,   Kashi-ya;     restt. 
Tsulvimi-ro),  formerly  the  capital 
of  the  Daimyos  of   Echizen,   still 
possesses  the  picturesque  remains 
of  the  castle  which  was  their  seat, 
and    a    Hongwanji    temple    with 
a  beautiful  view  toward  the  hills. 
To  foreigners,  Fukui  will  be  fur- 
ther  of  interest  as    having    been 
the  residence  from  1871  to  1872  of 
the  author  of  the  *  Mikado's  Em- 
pire,' the  Rev.  Wm.  E.  Griffis,  to 
whose  pages  the  reader  is  referred 
for  a  graphic  and  touching  account 
of  the  abdication  of  the  Daimyo  on 
the   1st  October,   1871,  when  tho 
decree   abolishing    feudalism  had 
been  issued. 

Sakai,  also  called  Mikiini  (Inn, 
Morota),  the  port  of  Fukui,  ist 
situated  at  the  confluence  of  the 
rivers  Hino,  Asuwa,  and  Kuzuryu,. 
and  has  steam  communication  with 
the  other  ports  on  the  coast. 

Daishojl  (Inns,  Daikoku-ya,  Ka> 
ruhana)  was  one  of  the  places  to 
which  the  Christians  of  the  neigh- 
bourhood of  Nagasaki  were  exiled 
during  the  last  i)ersecution  of 
1867-1873. 

Komatsil  {Inn,  Shimotoku)  was 
formerly  a  castle -town  belonging- 
to  the  Daimyo  of  Kaga.  Its  chief 
manufacture  is  silk  gauze.  Not 
far  from  Komatsu,  is  the  vill.  of 
Tartiashiro  having  hot-springs,  but 
worthy  of  notice  chiefly  from  the 
fact  that  it  provides  most  of  the 
clay  for  the  potters  of  Terai  and 
Kanazawa. 

Maito  produces   oil,  siUc,  dye8» 


Kanazawa,     FushiJcL     Nanao. 


229 


and  cotton  goods.  The  cultivation 
in  this  district  is  carried  on  with 
great  industry  and  economy,  even 
the  ridges  between  the  rice-fields 
being  sown  with  beans  or  barley. 

Kiinazawa  {Inns,  Ayabe,  Asada, 
Takabatake;  European  food  at  a 
restt,  in  the  public  garden)  was  the 
seat  of  the  lords  of  the  province 
of  Kaga,  the  richest  of  all  the  Dai- 
myos.  It  is  now  the  capital  of  the 
prefecture  of  Ishikawa,  which  in- 
cludes the  provinces  of  Kaga,  Noto, 
and  Etchu.  It  is  both  clean  and 
picturesque,  and  the  hills  above  it 
command  a  fine  prospect.  The 
castle  is  now  used  as  the  head- 
quarters of  a  military  division. 
I'o  the  r.  of  the  castle  is  the 
Public  Garden  called  by  the  literati 
the  Sixfold  Garden,  because  pos- 
sessing six  excellencies,  viz.  size, 
pleasing  appearance,  labour  be- 
stowed upon  it,  an  air  of  antiquity, 
running  water,  and  a  cliarming 
view.  The  grounds  contain  an  In^ 
dustrial  Museum  (kivangyd  haJmbw 
tsu'kwan),  and  a  fine  monument 
erected  to  the  memory  of  the  sol- 
diers who  fell  fighting  in  the  Satsu- 
ma^  rebellion.  The  monument, 
which  was  erected  in  1880,  consists 
of  a  pile  of  large  stones  on  which 
stands  a  handsome  bronze  figure 
of  Yamato-take,  over  18  ft.  high. 
At  Kanazawa  the  celebrated 
Kutani  porcelain  is  to  be  procured 
in  abundance.  A  visit  should  be 
Jwiid  to  the  potteries  of  Gankwa-do 
near  the  Public  Garden,  where 
the  processes  of  making  and  paint- 
ing the  porcelain  can  bo  inspected. 
Bronzes  inlaid  with  gold  and  silver 
(xogan),  and  fans  are  also  manu- 
factured. 

Iniaisiiriigi  (Inn,  Tokko-ya)  is  a 
flourishing  place. 

Takaoka  (Inns,  Akai-ya,  Etchii- 
ya)  is  situated  in  a  cotton-weaving 
and  silkworm-breeding  district, 
and  is  noted  for  its  dyeing  and 
manufacture  of  hardware.  It  is  a 
large  place,  stretching  for  a  mile 
or  more  along  the  road. 


Fnslilki  {Innshy  Okada,  Ueda)„ 
on  the  coast  has  attained  some 
importance  of  late  years  as  a  port 
of  call  for  steamers,  but  is  other- 
wise unattractive. 

[An  excursion  may  be  made  from 
Fushiki  to  Naiiao,  the  capital 
of  the  province  of  Noto. 

This  pi-ovince,  the  Jutland  of 
Japau,  obtains  its  name  from  the 
word  noffu,  which  means  *  peninsula ' 
in  the  language  of  the  former  Aino 
aborigines. 

Itinerary. 

FUSHIKI  to :—  Ri.  Cho.  M. 

Himi 2     28  6^ 

Ninomiya 3     33  9.^ 

NANAO    2     17  6 

Total 9       6     22^ 

Though  the  road  is  osten- 
sibly meant  for  jinrikisha 
traffic,  the  heavy  nature  of 
the  soil  and  a  pass  called  the 
Arayama-toge,  which  has  to  be 
encountered  on  the  way,  gene- 
rally necessitate  walking  as 
far  as  Ninomiya.  There  is 
fair  accommodation  both  at 
Himi  and  at  Nanao. 

Nanao  (Inn,  Ogome-ya)  is 
a  considerable  town  situated 
on  the  shores  of  a  minia- 
ture inland  sea,  across  which 
toy  steamers  ply.  The  chief 
attraction  in  the  neighbour- 
hood is  the  mineral  spring 
of  Wakura,  6  m.  distant, 
which  is  much  resorted  to  by 
the  people  of  the  country- 
side. But  it,  and  indeed  the 
province  of  Noto  generally, — 
low,  sandy,  and  poor  in  historic 
associations — are  little  calcu- 
lated to  interest  the  foreign 
visitor.  Mr.  Percival  Lowell, 
the  well-known  traveller  and 
author  of  *  Noto :  An  Unex- 
plored Comer  of  Japan,'  after 
having  divided  all  places  into 
two  sorts,  namely,  those  worth 
seeing  but  already  seen,  and 
those  not  yet  seen  but  not  worth 


230 


rL02U('  3 J:. — Mountains  ttf  Ktchu  and  Hida. 


seeing,  says,  *Wakura  struck 
mo  as  falling  into  the  latter 
halves  of  both  categories/] 

The  best  halting-places  between 
Fushiki  and  Naoetsu  are  Uotsu 
{Inn,  Hakata-ya),  and  Itoi-gawa 
{Inn,  Hayakawa).  The  last  day  of 
the  journey  is  also  the  most  pic- 
turesque, as  the  road  leads  for 
several  miles  along  bold  cliffs  by 
the  shore,  commanding  a  glorious 
view  of  the  Sea  of  Japan. 

For  Naoetsu  see  p.  225. 

Travellers  who  may  be  desirous 
of  visiting 

Toyama  {Inns,  Taisei-kaku,  Eu- 
ropean food  ;  Ki-ya),  (tai^ital  of  the 
prefecture  of  the  same  name  an<l 
of  the  province  of  Etchu,  can  do  so 
by  taking  a  small  boat  from  Fushiki 
to  Higashi-Iwase  {Inn,  Kushi-ya), 
a  small  port  at  the  mouth  of  the 
Jinzu-gawa,  in  about  3  hrs.,  whence 
to  Toyama  is  2  ri  2  chd  by  jinriki- 
sha.  Toyama  can  also  be  reached 
more  directly  from  Takaoka  by 
jinrikisha  all  the  way,  a  distance 
of  5  ri  29  chd.  Toyama  was  formerly 
the  castle-town  of  Matsudaira  Shi- 
gematsu,  a  cadet  of  the  Maeda 
family,  of  which  the  Daimyo  of 
Kaga  was  the  head.  The  castle  is 
now  utilised  as  a  school.  Its  prin- 
cipal trade  is  in  medecines  and 
leather.  The  sn6w-capped  summit 
of  Haku-san  is  a  striking  object 
in  the  landscape.  Toyama  is  a 
good  starting  point  for  those  who, 
approaching  them  from  this  side, 
wijh  to  penetrate  into  the  wild 
mountainous  districts.of  Etchu  and 
Hida,  described  in  the  next  Eoute. 


ROUTE  34. 

The   Mountains  op    Etchu    ano 
Hida. 

1.  introductory  remarks.  %  tate- 
yama.    3.  from  toyama  to  taiia- 
yama  in  hida  by  the  valley  of* 
the  takahara-bawa.     4.  kai«^a- 
zawa  in  kaga  to  takayama  by 
the  valley  of  the  shirakawa. 
5.  takayama  to  matsumoto  a^i> 
ueda  by  the  hirayu    and  abo 
passes  ;    ascent    of    norikura. 
[takayama  to  matsumoto  by  thk 
nomugi  pass.]    6.  takayama  to 
gifu  on  the  tokaido  railway. 
7.  takxvyama   to  fukushima  ox 
the  nakasendo.  8.  yari-ga-take. 
9.  nagano  to  toyama  over  thk 
harinoki  pass.     10.  ontake  and 
the  koma-ga-take  of  shinshu. 

11.  HAKU-SAN. 

1.— Introductory  Eemabks. 

The  provinces  of  Etchu  and 
Hida  may  be  conveniently  taken 
together,  because  hemmed  in  be- 
tween the  same  high  mountain 
ranges  which  render  this  region 
exceptionally  difficult  of  at  cess, 
and  have  prevented  it  from  being 
much  visited  even  by  the  natives 
of  the  surrounding  provinces. 
Lying  completely  beyond  the  reach 
of  railways  and  modern  civilisa- 
tion, no  part  of  Japan  has  changed 
so  little  of  late  years. 

l^ho  range  bounding  these  pro- 
vinces on  the  E.  is  the  most  con- 
siderable in  the  Empire.  The 
only  one  that  can  compare  with  it 
is  that  lying  between  the  Fuji- 
kawa and  the  Tenryii-gawa  in  the 
provinces  of  Koshii,  Shinshii,  Su- 
ruga,  and  TotOmi.  Many  of  the 
peaks  are  streaked  with  snow 
until  the  early  autumn,  while  in 
some  of  the  recesses  and  gorges 
where  it  is  partially  screened  from 


Introihictory  Uemarlcs,     Tateycaua, 


231 


tlie  sun's  rays,  the  snow  never 
entirely  disappears.  Extending 
almost  due  N.  and  S.  for  a  length 
of  ^  or  70  miles,  with  a  breadth  of 
from  5  to  10  miles,  this  range 
fonns  a  well-nigh  impenetrable  bar- 
rier to  communication  from  the  S. 
and  E.  It  consists  chie^y  of  granite, 
overlaid  in  places  with  igneous 
rocks.  Norikura  and  Tateyama 
are  volcanic  peaks.  The  highest 
and  most  conspicuous  of  the  nume- 
rous i)eaks,  beginning  at  the  N., 
aire  as  follows  : 

FT. 

Tateyama 9,500 

Yari-ga-take 10,000 

Norikura  9,800 

Ontake  9,800 

Haku-san 8,900 

Koma-ga-take 1 0,300 

Among  the  wild  animals  of  this 
region  may  be  mentioned  bears, 
doer,  the  goat-faced  antelope,  and 
two  kinds  of  boars.  The  streams 
abound  with  trout.  The  few  inha- 
Ijitants  are  hardy,  simple  folk,  clad 
in  hempen  garments,  often  with 
the  addition  of  an  antelope  skin, 
and  earning  a  scanty  living  by 
hunting,  wood-cutting,  and  char- 
coal burning.  Their  food  consists  of 
buckwheat  and  millet,  while  barley, 
hemp,  beans,  and  mulberry-leaves 
form  the  other  chief  i^roductions 
of  the  valleys. 

It  will  thus  be  seen  that  the 
mountaineer  has  but  hard  fare  to 
expect,  and  will  be  wise  to  provide 
himself  with  as  many  tins  of  meat, 
pr^ssrved  milk,  etc.,  as  can  be  packed 
into  a  small  compass.  The  recom- 
mendation is  advisedly  framed  in 
these  terms;  for  much  luggage 
cannot  be  carried,  owing  to  the 
ji^eneral  scarcity  of  men  to  carry  it. 
Needless  to  add  that  the  accommo- 
dation is  often  of  the  roughest. 
Only  at  Toyania  the  capital  of 
Etchu,  at  Takayama  the  capital 
•of  Hida,  and  at  a  few  other  of  the 
larger  towns,  is  the  ordinary  stand- 
ard of  Japanese  provincial  comfort 
attained.     Should  the  varying  effi- 


ciency of  the  carrying  companies 
which  undertake  to  forward  goods 
from  one  portion  of  Japan  to  an- 
other permit,  comparative  comfoi-t 
and  plenty  may  be  ensured  by  send- 
ing boxes  of  food,  extra  clothing, 
books,  and  whatever  else  may  lt>e 
required,  ahead  to  the  chief  towns 
through  which  one  expects  to  pass. 
It  is,  however,  always  advisable  to 
leave  a  good  margin  of  time,  as  the 
Japanese  are  not  to  be  relied  on  for 
punctuality  or  despatch. 

For  practical  convenience  sake, 
three  mountains  have  been  in- 
cluded in  this  rovite  that  do  not 
topographically  belong  to  it — Ha- 
ku-san, Ontake  and  the  Koma-ga- 
take  of  Shinshii — because,  though 
not  actually  forming  part  of  the 
same  range,  they  are  not  far  dis- 
tant from  it,  and  are  likely  to 
interest  the  same  class  of  travel- 
lers, and  to  bo  visited  during  the 
same  trip. 

The  district  treated  of  in  this 
route  may  be  best  approached 
from  one  of  three  sides,  viz.  from 
Ueda  or  Nagano  on  the  Kaiaiizawa- 
Naoetsu  llailway ;  from  Fuku- 
shima,  fuither  south  in  Shinshii; 
or  from  the  Sea  of  Japan,  on  which. 
side  Toyama  is  the  most  natural 
starting-point.  The  two  former 
approaches  are  to  be  j>ref  erred  by 
travellers  from  Tokyo,  the  last  by 
those  coming  from  Kyoto. 

2. — Tateyama. 

Tateyama  is  the  collective  name 
given  to  the  lofty  summits  which 
stand  on  the  E.  border  of  the 
province  of  Etchii,  and  which, 
together  with  the  jagged  peak  of 
Tsurugi-dake,  form  the  N.  ex- 
tremity of  the  greatest  range  of 
mountains  in  Japan.  The  highest 
of  the  peaks  (Go-honsha),  is  abont 
9,500  ft.  above  the  level  of  the  sea. 
The  main  ascent  leads  up  the  W* 
side  of  the  mountain  from  the  ham- 
let of  Ashikura,  which  can  be 
easily  reached  from  Toyama. 

The  road  up  the   mountain  is 


282 


liotite  34, — Mountains  of  EtcJni  and  Hida, 


aiduoas  in  parts,  nor  is  there  any 
shelter,  except  two  or  three  wretched 
huts,  to  be  got  during  the  whole 
distance  of  20  m.  from  Ashikura  to 
the  Muro-do,  2.V  m.  from  the  sum- 
mit. The  Muro-do  itself  is  but  a 
somewhat  better  hut,  which  is 
opened  for  the  accommodation  of 
pilgrims  from  the  20th  July  to  the 
10th  September.  No  bedding  is  pro- 
curable, nor  any  food  except  rice. 

[In  a  valley  situated  about  6  did 
to  the  1.  of  the  Muro-do  are 
the  remarkable  solfataras  of 
Ojigoku  (*Big  Hell').  The 
whole  valley  seems  alive  with 
I)Ool8  of  boiling  mud  and 
sulphur.] 

From  the  Muro-do  hut  to  the 
highest  summit,  whose  name  of  Go- 
honsha  comes  from  the  picturesque 
temple  with  which  it  is  crowned,  is 
1  hr.  climb,  partly  over  snow.  At 
the  end,  a  truly  superb  panorama 
unfolds  itself  before  the  spectator's 
gaze.  The  nimil^er  of  mountains  to 
be  distinguished  is  extraordinarily 
great.  To  the  extreme  1.,  looking 
eastward,  are  seen  Myoko-zan, 
Myogi-san,  and  Yoneyama  in 
Echigo,  Nantai-zan  near  Nikko,  and 
Togakushi-san  and  Asama-yama 
in  Shinshii.  Towards  the  S.  rises 
the  range  of  Yatsu-ga-take,  with 
the  isolated  peak  of  Tateshina- 
yama,  beyond  which  are  seen  Fuji 
and  the  high  jjeaks  of  Shirane  and 
Koma-ga-take  in  Koshii.  Further 
S.  a^ain  are  Koma-ga-take  and  On- 
take  in  Shinshu ;  Yari-ga-tako, 
Norikura,  Kasa-ga-take,  and  in 
closer  proximity,  Yakushi-dake,  all 
in  Hida.  To  the  S.W.  is  Hakn-san 
on  the  borders  of  Kaga.  Below,  to 
the  W.,  lie  the  plains  of  Kaga  and 
Etchu,  the  latter  watered  by  the 
rivers  Jinzu  and  Jogwanji,  while  to 
the  N.  the  view  is  bounded  by  the 
Sea  of  Japan. 


3. — From  Totama  to    Takatam-a. 

IN  Hida  by  the  Valley  of  tmis. 

Takahaea-gawa. 

Itinei'ai'y. 

TOYAMA  to :—  Bi.  Cho.  31. 

Kumano   1»   IS  3| 

Okubo 1  18  3| 

Machinaga 2  18  6 

Yoshino 2  —  5 

Inotani 1  —  2.i 

Uriishi-yama 4  —  9| 

Funatsu  2  —  5 

Terabayashi 1  —  2.j 

Yamada 1  —  2.} 

Suyama 1  —  2.V 

Yokamachi 2  —  2.^ 

Hirose 1  —  2.j 

TAKAYAMA 2  8  5i 

Total 22     26  55^ 


The  above    distances    are    only 
approximate.      At  the    hamlet   of 
Kumano    the     road     crosses      the 
Kumano-gawa,  and,  after  passing 
through    Okulo,    ascends     to    the 
hot  springs  of  Yaki,  where,  enter- 
ing the  mountains,  it  continues  up 
the  r.  bank  of  the  Jinzii-gawa  to- 
Machinaga.      So  far  it  is  possible^ 
to   take   horses ;    but  beyond  this 
point  all  baggage  must  be  carried 
by  cattle  or  on  coolies*  backs.  From 
Machinasra  onwards  the  scenery  be-^ 
comes  romantic.     The  road  follows 
the  side  of  a  deep  precipice  and  in 
some  places  quite  overhangs  jthe 
stream,  being  built  out  on  projecting 
logs  of  wood.     In  the  ravine  l^clow 
is  the  Jinzii-gawa,  at  times  flowing 
along  in   silence,  a  deep,  smooth^ 
placid  sheet  of  water,  at  other  tinics 
dashing  with  impetuous  violence. 
On  the  inner  side  of  the  path,  a 
swift   stream   flows  along  a  canal 
constructed    in    1807    to    convey 
water    to  Nihonmatsu  and  other 
villages  in  the  plain  to  the  E.  of 
the  Jinzu-gawa.      Each   curve  of 
the  road  discloses  new  and  more 
charming  views  of  the  river.  Monn- 
tain    torrents    tumble    down   the 
gnlUes  on  the  1.,  leaping  from  rock 


1 


allei/8  of  the  Ta7ia7iara-(/aica  and  ShiraJcmra. 


233 


i»  i-ock  to  join  the  rush  of  waters 
far  below.  After  passing  the  ham- 
lets of  Terazu  and  Usunami,  the 
traveller  reaches  Yoshino  (poor 
-accommodation).  Close  to  this 
vill.,  the  Jinzu-gawa  is  crossed 
in  a  kago-watashi.  Fine  salmon- 
trout  weighing  from  4  to  8  lbs., 
-ai-e  taken  in  the  river.  A  four- 
pronged  spear,  which  fits  into 
A  staff  having  a  stout  line  attached 
to  it,  is  used  for  catching  these 
fisH.  Ai  and  iwana  are  also  taken 
by  netting.  The  seasons  for  fisliing 
Are  the  end  of  spring  and  the 
beginning  of  autumn.  After  Yo- 
shino the  road  ascends,  and 
-comes  to  a  more  open  part  of 
the  valley  cultivated  with  tobacco 
-and  potatoes.  Before  reaching 
liwtani,  close  to  the  boundary  of 
the  provinces  of  Etchii  and  Hida, 
the  Jinzii-gawa  curves  away  to  the 
r.,  while  the  path  to  Funatsu 
follows  the  r.  bank  of  the  Taka- 
hai*a-gawa,  one  of  its  affluents. 
There  is  a  very  picturesque  view 
At  the  forking  of  the  rivers,  and 
■almost  the  whole  of  the  way  hence 
to  Funatsu  is  one  of  continued 
rugged  grandeur.  The  copper- 
smelting  works  of  the  Maebira 
mine  at  Daira,  which  is  one  of  the 
most  productive  in  Japan,  are 
passed  shortly  before  reaching 

Fniiatsii  {Inn  by  Kakeni  Gon- 
shichi),  a  fair-mzed  place,  where 
horses  can  again  be  engaged  for 
the  transport  of  baggage  to  the 
«nd  of  the  journey.  On  the  way 
to  Yainada  is  a  small  pass  called 
Akasaka,  3,850  ft.  above  the  sea, 
and  1,600  ft.  above  Funatsu.  The 
tea-house  of  Sakakoha,  j  m.  down 
on  the  other  side,  may  be  recom- 
mended for  a  short  halt  on  account 
of  the  beautiful  view  which  it 
commands  across  the  Yokamachi 
valley  and  the  low  pine-clad  hills 
separating  this  valley  from  that  of 
the  Miyagawa  and  the  plain  round 
Takayama.  At  Hirose  jinrikishas 
<^an  sometimes  be  obtained. 

Takayamii  (Inn,  Taniga-ya),  the 


capital  of  Sida,  is  divided  into 
three  main  parts,  called  respec- 
tively Ichi-no-machi,  Ni-no-machi, 
and  San-no-machi.  The  shops  are 
poor.  A  good  panorama  of  the 
town  and  neighbouring  mountains 
can  be  had  from  Shiroyama,  a  hill 
close  by  on  which  a  castle  formerly 
stood.  It  is  only  a  ten  minutes' 
chmb. 

4.-=^From  Kanazawa  in  Kaga  to 
Takayama  in  Hida  by  the  Val- 
ley OF  THE  ShIRAKAWA. 

Itinerary, 

KANAZAWA  to:—  Ri.  Chd.  M. 

Futamata 2  28  6| 

Fukumitsu 2  26  6f 

Jo-ga-hana  18  3 

Shimo  Nashi 4  4  10 

NishiAkao  2  26  6f 

Tsubaki-hara  3  10  8 

lijima 2  18  6 

Herase 2  30  7 

Kurodani 3  27  9|^ 

Mumai 1  33  4f 

Kami  Odori 2  18  6 

Maki-ga-hora 2  26  6f 

Mikka-machi 10  f 

TAKAYAMA 1  20  3| 

Total 34    32  85i 


This  route  is  not  practicable  for 
jinrikishas  except  between  Fuku- 
mitsu and  Jogahana,  and  again 
between  Mikka-machi  and  Taka- 
yama. Jinrikishas  are  always  to 
be  found  at  Fukumitsu,  but  at 
Mikka-machi  they  cannot  be  de> 
pended  on.  Horses  are  not  pro- 
curable in  the  valley  of  the  Shira- 
kawa,  and  baggage  is  transported 
by  cattle  or  on  coolies'  backs. 
Fairly  good  accommodation  can  be 
had  at  most  of  the  villages.  The 
scenery  is  delightfully  picturesque, 
and  there  are  many  magnificent 
distant  views.  Neai*  Jo-ga-hana  la 
a  pool  called  Navoa-ike,  or  the  Bto/pB 
Pool,  which  is  regarded  with  super- 
stitious awe  by  the  people  of  the 


23  i 


Eoiite  34, ^-Mountains  of  FAchu  and  Hula, 


'whole  country-side.  It  is  visited 
by  pilgrims  and  the  inhabitants  of 
the  surrounding  district  after  the 
rice  harvest  is  over ;  but  from  the 
time  of  planting  out  the  young 
rice  until  the  harvest  is  reaped,  no 
one  will  approach  the  spot,  it  being 
supposed  that  if  any  one  does  so, 
storms  and  destruction  of  crops  will 
follow  as  a  punishment  awarded  by 
the  deity  under  whose  presiding 
care  the  pool  is  jjlaced.  So  firmly 
indeed  is  this  superstition  engrained 
in  the  minds  of  the  peasantry, 
that  watchmen  from  the  different 
hamlets  are  selected  to  guard  the 
T-arious  approaches  to  the  pool, 
and  the  inhabitants  have  also 
bound  themselves,  under  penalty 
of  banishment  from  their  native 
place,  not  to  act  as  guides  to  any 
travellers  before  the  harvest  is 
over. 


5. — ^Fbom  Takayama  to  Matsumoto, 

AND  TO  UeDA  on  THE  KaRUIZAWA- 

Naoetsu  Railway,  by  the  HiPwA- 
Tu  AND  Abo  Passes.    Ascent  of 

NOKIKURA.       [NOMUGI  PaSS.] 

Itinerary. 

TAKAYAMA  to  :—  Ri.  Clio.  M. 

Matsunoki —  15  1 

Hachi-ga-machi    ...  1  '  3  2^ 

Otani  1  —  2^ 

Hiomo 1  17  3i 

Kate    1  28  4] 

Hirayu    2  8  5.V 

Top  of  Abotoge    ...  2  —  5 
Descent   to    Azusa- 

gawa    2  —  5    , 

Top  of  Hinoki-toge.  1  —  2.^ 

Onogawa    1  —  2^ 

Kumanosav/a 3  2^  9 

MATSUMOTO 

(about)    1     18  18| 

■»    . — 

Total 25      6  Ol.^ 


Leaving  the  E.  end  of  Takayama 

*(see  p.  233),  the  road  traverses  the 

Till,    of  Matsunoki,  where    a  rope 


stretched  across  the  valley  testifies 
to  an  ancient  superstition.  Ac- 
cording to  the  date  at  which  the 
weather  causes  this  rope  to  snap^ 
omens  are  drawn  for  the  crops  of 
the  ensuing  twelve  month.  It  is- 
replaced  yearly  on  the  7th  day  of 
the  7th  moon .  This  spot  is  one  of 
the  '  Eight  Views  *  of  the  province 
of  Hida.  At  the  top  of  the  Tete-zaka, 
before  descending  to  Hachi-o-a- 
machi,  the  summits  of  Yari-ga- 
take,  Kasadake,  Norikura,  and  On- 
take  come  in  view.  At  the  temple 
of  Genraiji  in  Hachi-ga-iiiachi  the 
priests  are  willing  to  receive  for- 
eigners. There  are  several  other 
temples  on  the  road  as  far  as. 
Hiomo,  where  accommodation  cau 
be  had ;  but  after  the  latter  place 
it  is  not  possible  to  stay  anywhere 
until  reaching  Hirayu.  The  first 
part  of  the  walk  is  extremely  pic- 
turesque, and  the  road  is  good  as. 
far  as  Hiomo,  beyond  which  it  is 
but  a  pathway.  At  Kuie  com- 
mences the  ascent  of  the  Hirayu 
Pass,  whicli  lies  throusrh  the  forest 
for  a  little  more  than  1  ri.  The 
descent  on  the  other  side,  also  1  ri,. 
is  extremely  steep,  down  to  the 
hollow  between  high  mountains 
where  nestles  the  little  hamlet  of 

Hirayu  (fair  accommodation)^ 
This  place  is  frequented  by  the 
people  of  the  province  for  tlie  sako 
of  its  strengthening  mineral  hot 
waters.  The  only  sight  in  the  neigh- 
bourhood is  a  cascade  some  200  ft> 
high,  formed  by  the  river  Taka- 
hara  near  its  source,  and  distant 
13  cho.  The  snowy  mountain  to 
the  N.W.  of  the  vill.  is  Kasadake. 
Hirayu  is  abandoned  during  the 
winter  months,  when  the  people 
return  to  Otani.  The  road  now 
passes  over  the  Aho-toge,  called 
also  the  Shinano-tbge  (6,400  ft.),, 
into  the  province  of  Shinshiu 
Pedestrians  use  this  pass  in  prv- 
ference  to  that  of  Nomugi,  tht» 
distance  being  3  ri  shorter ;  but 
the  way  is  not  practicable  for 
horses  or  cattle.     Yari-^'a-take  and 


Tahayama  to  Matswnoto,     Ascent  of  Xorikiira, 


235 


Kasadake  1.,  and  Haku-san  to  the 
S.  W.,  are  seen  diirinjj  the  latter 
part  of  the  ascent;  but  from  the 
suxniuit  of  the  pass  the  view  is 
aliuost  entirely  shut  out,  nor  is 
there  any  extensive  prospect  on 
t;h.e  way  down.  There  are  several 
resting-places  suitable  for  a  midday 
Iia.lt. 

Oliog-awa  (Inn  by  Okuta  Kiichi) 
is  a  small  viil.  picturesquely  situ- 
ated on  the  banks  of  the  Maegawa, 
an  affluent  of  the  Azusa-gawa,  at  a 
lieight  of  3,300  ft. 

[From  this  place  it  is  possible  to 
ascend  Norikiu*a.  But  as  the 
climb  to  the  suumiit  and  back 
may  prove  too  much  for  one 
day,  the  traveller  is  advised 
to  sleep  at  the  furthest  hut, 
about  1^  ri  higher  up,  on 
the  way  to  which  are  passed 
the  remains  of  old  furnaces, 
heaps  of  slag  and  ore,  etc., 
indicating  the  site  of  the 
once  extensive  smelting  works 
of  Obi  Ginzan.  In  the  side 
of  the  hill  near  by,  are  seen 
the  openings  of  the  levels 
of  the  old  mine,  which  has 
not  been  worked  since  1860. 
The  ore  consists  of  galena 
containing  a  small  quantity 
of  silver.  The  sleeping-hut 
(4,800  ft.)  stands  not  far  from 
a  small  stream  abounding  in 
excellent  trout.  There  is  no 
road  from  the  hut  to  the  sum- 
mit, and  only  occasional  traces 
of  a  path.  At  the  end  there  is 
a  climb  up  a  steep  snow-field, 
and  then  over  lava  blocks  and 
scoriae,  which  finally  lead  to  the 
small  shrine  of  Asahi  Gongen 
on  the  highest  point  of  the 
mountain,  9,800  ft.  above  the 
sea.  Time  from  the  sleei^ing 
hut,  at  least  4  hrs.  Norikura 
is  an  old  volcano,  the  peak 
being  really  one  of  the  sides 
of  the  crater  from  which  ex- 
tensive lava-flows  have  j^oured 
out,   notably  in  the  direction 


of  Onogawa.     Near  the  sum- 
mit is  a  lake.] 

From  Onogawa  to  Kumanosawa 
is  a  charming  walk  down  a  secludod 
gorge  walled  in  by  densely  wooded 
moLiutains,  while  below  rush  first 
the  Maegawa  and  then  the  Azusa- 
gawa,  spanned  at  intervals  by 
picturesque  bridges.  After  Kuma- 
nosawa, the  mountains  open  out  to 
form  the  plain  of  Matsiimoto  (see  p. 
220).  From  Matsumoto,  the  station 
of  Ueda  on  the  Karuizawa-Naoetsu 
Railway  can  be  reached  by  carriage 
in  6  hrs. 

[An  alternative  way  from  Taka- 
yama  to  Matsumoto  is  over  the 
Nomugi  Pass.  The  Itinerary 
is  as  follows. 


TAKAYAMA  to  :— 

m. 

Kabuto   3 

Kibyu-dani    ...  2 

Naka-no-shuku  1 

Nomugi  ..'. 3 

Kawaura    3 

Yoriaido     2 

Nyu-yama 2 

Inekoki   

SHIMASHIMA  1 

Niimura 3 

MATSUMOTO  1 


Clw. 

1 
31 
13 
23 


31. 

7i 
7 

3| 
9 
^.k 

18     () 

—  5 

18     l\ 

*}i 

—  ^a 

18     8.\ 
18 


•  >;» 
"4 


Total  24     32  Gl 


Nomugi  and  Shiniashima 
are  the  T)est  places  to  stop  at 
on  the  way.] 

6. — From  Takatama  in  Hi  da  to 

gifu  on  the  tokaico  railway. 

A  road  called  the  Hida  Kaidoleads 
from  Takayama  down  the  valley  of 
the  Hidiigawa  to  Gifu  on  the  To- 
kaido  Railway.  The  first  part  of 
the  way — that  lying  within  the 
province  of  Hida — affords  delight- 
ful views.  But  on  crossing  the 
frontier  into  Mine,  of  which  Gilu 
is  the  capital,  one  meets  with  a 
sudden  change  in  the  character  of 
the  scenery,  bare  sandy  hillocks  re- 


236 


lioute  3Jf. — Mountains  of  Etchu  and  Hida. 


placing  the  well-wooded  valleys  and 
rooky  I'avines  of  the  earlier  portion. 
Oero,  also  called  Yunoshima,  pos- 
sesses mineral  springs.  There  is 
fair  accommodation  on  the  way,  es- 
pecially at  Shimohara.  The  road 
is  practicable  for  jinrikishas. 

Itinerary. 

TAKA  YAMA  to :—  Ri.  Cho.  M. 

Kukuno 3  4    7h 

Oesaka  3  32    9| 

Hagiwara 3  17^ 

Gero..; 2  4     5^^ 

Uoido 3  18     8^ 

Shimohara 3  —    7i 

Kanayama 14     1 

Kamibuchi 3  13    8i 

Nakanoho 1  33    4f 

Seki 5  1  12i 

Akutami 2  4     si 

GIFU 2  6    5i 

Total 33     22  82 


7. — From   Takayama  in  ^Hida  to 

FUKUSHIMA  ON  THE  NaKASENDO. 

Itinerary, 

TAKAYAMA  to  :—  Ri.  Cho.  M. 

Kabuto 3  1  7i 

Kibyii-dani  .., 2  31  7 

Naka-no-shuku  ...  1  13  3^ 

Kami-no-liara 1  18  3f 

Adanogo  1  5  2f 

Hiwada 2  20  6^ 

Kami  Nishino 3  —  7 J 

Suegawa  2  1  5 

Km-okawa    3  —  7^ 

FUKUSHIMA    ...  1  —  2h 


Total... 21     17  62^ 


As  far  as  Nishino,  baggage  is 
generally  carried  by  women,  some- 
times by  cattle.  Though  either 
means  of  transport  is  objection- 
able, there  is  apparently  no  other 
alternative.  Beautiful  views  oc- 
cur all  along  the  route.  The 
best  accommodation  is  at  Kami 
Nishino,  whence  it  is  possible  to 
ascend  Ontake,  a  climb  of  7  ri ;  but 
the  way    is    a   difficult  one,  and 


either  of  those  given  on  pp.  238-9  is 
to  be  preferred. 

8. — Yabi-ga-take. 

Yari-ga-tuke,  lit.  Spear  Peak,  is 
most  easily  reached  from  the  Shin- 
shii  side  via  Ueda  on  the  Karni- 
zawa  -  Naoet-su  Kailway,  Matsu- 
moto,  and  Shimashima  (see  p.  220). 

The  way  up  the  mountain — no^w 
a  mere  track  where  formerly  there 
existed  a  proper  road — ^leads  over  a 
pass  7,000  ft.  high,  before  descend- 
ing to  the  bank  of  a  rivulet  where 
stands  the  sleeping  hut  (Tokumota 
no  koya)  at  an  altitude  of  4,960  ft., 
and  at  a  distance  of  7  or  8  hrs.  from 
Shimashima.    Inconvenience  arises 
from  the  fact  of  this  hut  being  too 
far  from  the  summit  of  the  moun- 
tain for  the  ascent  and  descent  to 
be  easily  accomplished  on  the  same 
day.     Another  hut,  called  Miya^a- 
wa    no    koya,  3    ri  further  on   at 
the  actual  base  of  the  mountain, 
is    a    better    starting-point,    bnt 
difficult  to  reach  in  one  day  from 
Shimashima  unless    the    baggage 
be    sent   on    in    front.      In   this 
quandary  the  traveller  must  make 
his  own  choice.     We  should,  how- 
ever,   advise    go'ng  on    the  first 
day  from  Shimashima  to  the  Tohu- 
moto  no  koya,  where  sleep  ;  ascend 
the  mountain,  and  return  to  a  rude 
shelter  called  Ahasa  no  koya  on  the 
second  day,  returning  to  Shimashi- 
ma on  the  third.     We  should  also 
propose  that,  in  addition  to    the 
guide,  the  traveller  take  with  him 
a  strong  coolie  to  carry  him  across 
the  torrent,  which  has  to  be  forded 
many    times,   occasionally  almost 
waist-deep.     The  distance  from  the 
Miyagawa  hut  to  the  summit  is 
called  6  ri.      The  ascent  can    be 
accomplished    in   7   hrs.,  and  the 
descent  in  4^  hrs. 

The  route  lies  alternately  up  one 
side  or  the  other  of  the  bed  or  banks 
of  this  torrent  for  about  3  hrs.  On 
the  1.,  steep,  craggy  granitic  moun- 
tains rise  to  a  height  of  from  7,000 
ft.  to  8,000  ft.,  while  on  the  r.  are 


Yan-ga-tuhe,     The  HannoJci  Pass, 


237 


-tamer  wooded  hills.  Noble  moun- 
i»;ins  are  these  precipitous  masses 
of  granite,  surpassing  in  wildness 
^ny  to  be  seen  elsewhere  in  Japan, 
iiheir  curiously  steep  forms  being 
not  unlike  some  of  the  ideal  crags 
•depicted  in  Chinese  art.  Perhaps 
there  is  no  part  of  the  country  in 
so  tridy  primeval  a  state — with  the 
-exception  of  some  pai-ts  of  Yamato 
— than  this  torrent  valley  in  the 
heai-t  of  the  Shinano-Hida  range, 
■whose  sole  frequenters  are  hunters 
seeking  bears  or  the  sheep-faced 
a>ntelope.  At  an  elevation  of 
6,400  ft.,  a  rude  shed  called 
Akasdka  no  Iwa-goya,  a  camping- 
place  for  hunters,  is  passed ;  and 
just  above  here  the  forest  ceases, 
And  the  first  snow-field  is  crossed. 
Hence  the  road  lies  mostly  over 
snow ;  but  just  below  the  summit, 
between  the  peaks,  the  route  winds 
up  and  among  huge  bare  masses  of 
rock  piled  in  indescribable  confu- 
sion. From  the  irregular  resting 
of  some  of  these  crags,  so  called 
•  caves '  are  formed,  wherein  the 
hunters  take  up  their  quarters 
whilst  watching  for  bears.  Ptar- 
migan are  common  here.  A  stiff 
<;linib  up  snow  and  over  debris, 
and  a  rather  dangerous  scramble 
up  one  side  of  the  peak,  land  the 
traveller  on  a  table  of  a  few  square 
yards  of  rock,  the  top  of  the  *  spear ' 
■of  the  mountain. 

^. — From  Nagano  to  Toyama  in 
Etchu  over  the  Harinoki 
Pass. 

The  gi'eater  portion  of  the  follow- 
ing itinerary  and  of  the  description 
given  below  must  be  regarded  as 
approximate  only,  the  difficulty  of 
keeping  communication  jopen  acr^css 
so  rugged  a  country  being  pecu- 
liarly great.  There  is  no  possibility 
of  crossing  the  pass  before  the  yama- 
hiraki,  or  *  mountain  opening,*  on 
the  20th  June.  Even  during  the 
summer  months  communication  is 
often    entirely    interrupted,    and 


none  but  the  most  experienced 
mountaineers  can  hope  to  succeed 
in  forcing  a  path  for  themselves. 

Itinerary. 

*NAGANO  to  :—  Ri.  Cho.  M. 

Sasadaira 3  18  &^ 

Shimmachi  2  18  6 

dbara    1  —  2^ 

Hashigi     1  18  3f 

So 1  —  21 

Omachi 2  30  7 

Noguchi    18  IJ 

Shirazawa    2  18  6 

Maruishi-bashi   ...  1  2  2^ 
Top    of    Harinoki 

Pass  1  21  3f 

Futamata 24  If 

Kurobe 2  11  5f 

Top  of  Zaragoe  ...  1  7  3 

Yumoto    2  —  5 

Yanagiwara 31  2 

Seko  1  6  2f 

Hara..: 3  —  7i 

Omi   1  —  2i 

Kamidaki 3  —  7i 

TOYAMA    3  —  7i 

Total 36      6  88i 

Jinrikishas  can  be  taken  as  far 
as  the  hamlet  of  Koichi,  where  the 
Saigawa  is  joined  and  from  which 
point  the  scenery  becomes  pretty. 
One  ri  before  reaching 

Shimmachi  {Inn^  Kome-ya),  the 
road  passes  over  the  Yanoshiri- 
toge,  a  steep  ascent  of  18  cko. 

The  descent  to  the  hamlet  of  Anadaira 
on  the  other  side  was  the  scene  of  a  great 
convulsion  in  the  year  1817,  when,  owin^^ 
to  an  earth([uake,  the  river  was  dammed 
up  by  a  fall  of  masses  of  earth  from  the 
hills  on  1x)th  sides.  A  small  cuscade 
marks  the  spot  where  the  waters  after- 
wards   Inoke   through.     Boats  formerly 


*  Or  NAGANO  to:—  Bi.  ChO.  M, 

Sasadaira 3  18  B\ 

Kakajo 2  —  6 

Takebu 2  —  6 

Pemmi  2  —  5 

OMACHI 3  18  8i 

Total 13     —   31f 

This  is  the  postal  roate,  but  that  givem 
in  the  text  is  more  picturesque.    ' 


238 


lloiite  34, — Mountains  of  Etchu  and  tiida. 


-went  all  the  way  down  from  Matsumoto 
to  Nagano,  but  their  passage  has  ever 
since  been  interrupfcecl  at  Anadaiia. 

Omachi  {Inuy  Yama-cho)  presents 
an  old-world  appearance,  owing 
to  its  flat-roofed  wooden  houses 
like  the  cottages  in  the  Alps,  with 
heavy  stones  to  keep  down  the 
shingling.  At  Noguchi,  where  com- 
fortable quarters  can  be  obtained, 
enquiries  should  be  made  as  to  the 
state  of  the  road,  and  stout-limbed 
guides  engaged  for  the  ascent  of 
the  Harinoki  Pass.  Under  favour- 
able conditions,  the  next  day  ought 
to  bring  the  traveller  to  Kurobe. 
The  summer  limit  of  the  snow 
on  the  Harinoki  Pass  is  reached 
about  1  ?-i  from  the  top,  at  an  eleva- 
tion of  5,300  ft. 

From  the  summit  (7,700  ft.),  Fuji 
is  seen  as  in  a  vignette  between 
the  ranges  of  Yatsu-ga-take  and 
Koma-ga-take,  the  other  most  note- 
worthy feature  of  the  view  being 
Tari-ga-take. 

£A  peak  called  GoroJcu-dakey  9.100 
ft.,  may  be  ascended  from  this 
point ;  but  there  is  no  shelter 
to  sleep  in.] 

The  traveller  now  leaves  the 
province  of  Shinshii  for  that  of 
Et<ihu,  and  will  notice,  both  on  the 
Bummit  and  on  the  way  down,  the 
alder-trees  (hari-no-kiy  or  han-tio- 
ki)  which  give  their  name  to  the 
pass.  The  valley  on  this  side  is 
known  as  the  Harinoki-sawa. 

Kurobe  is  a  tiny  hamlet  with  a 
fishing  stream.  The  road  from 
Kurobe  to  the  baths  of  Yunioto  lies 
over  two  steep  ascents,  the  Nukui- 
dani-toge  and  the  Zaragoo.  The 
Tiew  from  the  toj)  of  the  latter  is 
magnificent.  All  around,  enor- 
mous landslips  and  confused  mass- 
es of  rock,  hurled  down  from  the 
toi>s  of  the  mountains  to  the  gorge 
below,  bear  witness  to  the  terribly 
destructive  forces  by  which  this  part 
of  the  country  has  been  ravaged. 
The  rocky  mass  in  front  is  one  of 
^he  slopes  of  Tateyama,  while  on 
the  1.  a  view  of  the  soft  plains  of 


Toyama  and  of  the  sea  beyond 
contrasts  agreeably  w^ith  the  savage 
aspect  of  the  nearer  landscape. 
The  Jinziigawa  is  seen  in  the  plain 
wending  its  way  towards  the  Sea 
of  Japan,  and  the  blue  outline  of 
the  provinces  of  Kaga  and  Notc^ 
fills  up  the  distant  background. 
The  descent  is  through  a  wilder- 
ness of  rocks  and  stones.  Here  and 
there  sulphur  fumes  are  seen  rising- 
from  the  mountain  side. 

Yninoto,  or  Ry  uxaii-jita,  situated 
in  a  desolate  waste,  possesses  liot- 
springa.  All  around  is  a  chaos 
of  large  boulders,  sand,  and  stones. 

Mountain  sides  da  shed  down  by  the 
violence  of  the  carthtiunke  of  1858  still 
remain  a  mass  of  confusion  to  tell  the 
tale  of  awf  i.l  destruction  which  then  oc- 
cuiTcd.  A  large  portion  of  Tombi,  the 
precipitous  mountain  S.  of  the  baths,  fell 
right  across  the  valley  and  dammed  up 
the  stream.  A  month  later,  when  the 
sno"\v  melted  and  the  vrater  burst  thronph 
its  baiTier,  the  villaKCS  below,  ri<?ht  away 
dowu  the  valley  of  the  J6f?wanji-gawH, 
were  deluged  with  liquid  mud;  and  houses^ 
fields,  and  human  beings  were  over- 
whelmed in  one  common  destruction. 

On  leaving  Yumoto,  the  path 
continues  down  a  ihagnificently 
rugged  gorge,  called  Dashiwara- 
dani  at  its  upper  end. 

It  is  often  necessary  to  cross  the 
Jogwanji  by  a  kago  no  ivatashi,  or 
basket  slung  to  ropes.  Before 
descending  to  Kamidaki,  the  best 
general  view  of  Tateyama  and  of  the 
range  forming  the  boundary  of  the 
province  of  Etchti  is  obtained.  The 
names  of  the  highest  summits,  in 
order  from  the  1.,  are  as  follows  : — 
Tsurugi-dake,  Kodake,  Go-honsha, 
Jodo,  Tombi,  Kuwasaki,  and  Ari- 
mine-Yakushi.  The  road  onward 
crosses  a  well-cultivated  plain,  and 
joins  the  Hokkoku  Kaido  a  few  cho 
before  reaching  Toyaiua  (see  p. 
230). 

10. — Ontake   and   the    Koma-ga- 

TAKE    OF    ShINSHU. 

The  best  starting  point  for  the 
ascent  of  Ontflke  for  those  ap- 
proaching it  from  the  Nakasendo 


Ontake,     Koma-f/a-take,     Ilahi-san. 


2Sd^ 


side  is  Fukushiinaj  whence  it  may 
Gsusily  be  climbed  in  one  day,  or 
Agematsu,  whence  the  expedition 
is  rather  too  long  for  one  day, 
making  it  generally  advisable  to 
spend  the  night  at  the  Ta-no- 
bora  hut.  The  climb  is  a  some- 
what rou(^h  one^  The  view  from 
the  summit  embraces  Haku-san  to 
the  N.W.,  then  to  the  r.  the  penin- 
sula of  Noto,  and  still  further  to  the 
r.  a  row  of  mighty  peaks  that  bear 
traces  of  snow  even  during  the 
greatest  summer  hc^ats.  Conspi- 
cuous among  these  peaks  are  Tate- 
yauia,  Yari-ga-take,  and  Noriktira. 
Par  to  the  N.E.  rise  tlie  volcano  of 
Asama  and  the  chain  separating 
the  provinces  of  Kotsuke  and  Shin- 
shii.  To  the  S.E.  appeiir  Yatsu- 
ga-take  and  far-oli"  I'uji,  with  the 
Koma-ga-take  of  Shinshu  in  the 
nearer  distance. 

The  Shinshii  Komn-^a-talie  is 

most  conveniently  ascended  from 
Agematsu.  The  distance  from 
that  village  to  the  summit  is 
called  4  ri  8  chu,  and  the  ascent, 
part  of  which  is  very  steep,  will 
occupy  a  good  walker  over  5  hrs. 
The  native  pilgrims,  who  do  not 
care  to  make  the  round  of  the 
various  peaks  forming  the  top  of 
the  mountain,  but  merely  wish  to 
visit  Go-honsha,  the  liighest  point, 
usually  ascend  and  descend  in  one 
day.  But  the  traveller  is  recom- 
uionded  rather  to  time  his  excur- 
sion so  as  to  sleep  at  a  hut  called 
Taniakaho,  3  ri  32  cho  from  Acrema- 
tsu,  in  order  to  witness  the  magni- 
ficent spectacle  of  sunrise  from  the 
summit.  Looking  eastwards,  the  eye 
sweeps  along  an  almost  continuous 
line  of  mountains  rising  beyond  the 
valleys  of  the  Chikuma-gawa  and 
Tcuryu-gawa,  the  prominent  sum- 
mits in  order  from  the  1.  being 
Asama-yama  N.N.E.,  Tateshina 
N.E.  by  N.,  Yatsu-ga-tako  N.E.  by 
E.,  Koma-ga-take  E.  by  N.,  and, 
directly  oj^posite,  Shirane-ga-take, 
-including  its  three  summits  Kai 


j 


gane-san,  Aino-take,  and  Nodori- 
san.  The  sharp  peak  seen  between 
Koma-ga-take  and  Kaigane-san  is 
the  siunmit  of  Ho-6-zan.  To  the 
S.E.  rises  a  lofty,  snow- streaked 
range  with  three  conspicuous  sum- 
mits, the  highest  of  which  is  called 
Akai-ishi.  Another  striking  featiu-e 
is  the  cone  of  Fuji,  which  towers 
up  beyond  a  dej^ression  to  the  r.  of 
Isodori-san.  Looking  westward, 
the  view  embraces  a  consider- 
able portion  of  the  great  chain 
forming  the  boundary  between  the 
provinces  of  Shinshu  and  Hida, 
the  most  prominent  summit  being 
Ontakc,  bearing  N.  of  W.,  to 
whose  r.,  rising  in  succession  to 
the  N.,  are  Norikura,  Kasadake^ 
Iwasu-<jra-take,  and  Yari-sra-take. 
In  the  distance,  the  peaks  of  Tate- 
yama  are  discernible  beyond  Yari- 
ga-take.  Towards  the  W.  the  dis- 
tant outline  of  Haku-san  is  visible^ 
while  in  nearer  proximity  to  the  S. 
rises  Ena-san  in  the  province  of 
Mine.  There  is  also  an  extensive 
view  over  the  province  of  Mikawa 
and  a  portion  of  Enshii,  with 
several  mountains,  including  the 
double  summit  of  Horaiji-yama  in 
the  former  province  and  Akiha-san 
in  the  latter. 


11. — Haku-san. 

This  celebrated  mountain,  stand- 
ing on  the  borders  of  the  four 
provinces  of  Echizen,  Kaga,  Hida, 
and  Mino,  is  best  ascended  from 
Kanazawa,  the  capital  of  Kaga  (see 
p.  229).  The  itinerary  to  Yimioto 
at  the  base  is  as  follows  : 

KANAZAWA  (Oliashi)  to:— 

Ri   Cho.  M, 

Tsurugi. 3     —     7\ 

Onnawara o     29  14] 

Ushikubi 4      4  10 

YUMOTO 5     —  12] 

Total 17     33  43if 

There  is  fair  accommodation  at 
all  thejie  i)laces.     The  road  is  prac- 


2A0 


Route  35, — Ba pills  of  the  Tem't/u-gmva. 


ticable  for  jinrikishas  only  as  far 
as  Tsuiiigi.  From  Ushikubi  on- 
wards the  scenery  is  delightfully 
picturesque.  Yumoto  is  completely 
ahut  in  by  densely  wooded  hills, 
^nd  is  deserted  in  winter  by  its 
inhabitants,  who  do  not  return  till 
the  beginning  of  June.  The 
ascent  and  descent  of  the  moun- 
tain make  an  easy  day's  expedi- 
tion. The  glorious  view  from 
the  summit  includes  Tateyama 
N.E.,  Yai-i-ga-take  E.N.E.,  Nori- 
kura  a  little  to  the  S.  of  E.,  Yatsu- 
ga-take  and  the  Koma-ga-take  of 
Koshu  in  the  dim  distance,  Ontake 
E.S.E.,  and  the  Koma-ga-take  of 
Shinshii.  In  the  immediate  neigh- 
bourhood are  Bessan  on  the  S.,  and 
Onanji  on  the  N.,  which,  with  the 
central  and  highest  peak  called 
Gozen-mine,  together  constitute  the 
three  summits  of  Haku-san.  On 
the  N.W.  rises  the  lofty  top  of 
Shaka-ga-take.  On  the  E.  side  is 
Tsurugi  or  *the  Sword,'  so  called 
from  its  pointed  rocky  peaks,  and 
on  the  W.  is  the  Oku-no-in.  Two 
tarns  lie  at  the  bottom  of  what  are 
apparently  ancient  craters. 

Haku-san  may  also  be  reached 
from  Fukui  in  Echizen  by  the  fol- 
lowing itinerary,  the  route  being 
practicable — j ust  practicable — for 
jinrikishas  as  xfar  as  Katsuyama, 
but  the  accommodation  all  along 
the  road  wretched.  On  the  other 
hand  there  is  some  fine  wild  scenery. 

Itinerary. 
FUKUI  (Arahashi)  to  :— 

Ri.  Cho.  M. 

Matsuoka 2      4    5| 

Komyoji 1     22     3f 

Katsuyama 4    —    9f 

Kogo.^ 2      8    6.} 

Kotaro's        Farm- 
house       2    32    7 

Top    of     Kijikami 

Pass 1     18    3J 

Mizutani  2    —    5 

YUMOTO 18    3 

Total 17    20  42} 


ROUTE  35. 
The  Eapids  op  the  Tenbyu-gawa. 

[IlDA    TO    NaGOYA    by    THE     InA. 

Kaido.] 

These  rapids,  the  finest  in 
Japan,  are  also  among  the  mosrfc 
accessible,  for  they  form  a  natural 
route  connecting  the  two  chief 
highways  of  the  central  portion  of 
the  Main  Island. — the  Nakasendo 
and  the  Tokaido.  The  village 
where  one  embarks  is  called  Toki- 
llinta  (Inn,  *Umeno-ya).  It  is 
reached  by  travelling  along  the 
Kakasendo  as  far  as  Shimo-no 
Suwa,  on  Lake  Suwa,  thence  to 
Matsushima  {Inns,  Mon-ya  and 
Tsuta-ya)  on  another  important 
highway  called  the  Ina  Kaido,  and 
along  that  highway  to  lida  (/*in, 
Iwaki  -  Masu-ya),  a  large  and 
flourishing  town,  formerly  the  re- 
sidence of  a  Daimyo  named  Hori. 
The  poition  of  the  Ina  Kaido 
which  is  included  in  this  route  is 
by  no  means  lacking  in  the  pic- 
turesque. It  also  brings  the  tra- 
veller into  the  vicinity  of  the 
Shinshu  Koma-ga-take,  which  may 
he  ascended  from  lijinia  (Inn, 
Enoki-ya). 

Itinerary. 

SHIMO-NO-SUWA  to  :— 

Ri.  Cho.  If. 

Matsushima  6     ^   15 

Ina  2    18     6 

Akao   3      6     7f 

lijima 1    31      4i 

lida 5   27    14 

TOKIMATA 2—6 

Total 21    15    52i 

The  beSt  accommodation  on  the 
way  is  at  Matsushima,  and  at 
Saka&hitn  (Inn,  Yorozu-ya),  half- 
way between  Matsushima  and 
Akao.  The  whole  way  from  Shimo- 
no-suwa  to  Tokimata  is  practicable 
for  jinrikishas  and  can  ecisily  be 
accomplished  in  two  short  days. 
But  the  occasional  roughness  of 


The  Tenryu-gawa.     I'ula  to  Nagoya, 


241 


"tbe  latter  part  of  the  route  neces- 
sitates the  taking  of  two  jiurikisha- 
men.  The  passage  by  boat  from 
^^okimata  down  to  the  Tokaido 
occupies  12  hrs.  The  total  distance 
"travelled  by  water  is  estimated  at 
36  ri — say  90  m.  —  but  the  latter 
portion  of  this  is  along  a  compara- 
tiively  sluggish  current.  The  boat 
cloes  not  take  the  traveller  actually 
to  the  Tokaido  Railway.  If  bound 
up  the  line  in  the  direction  of 
Tokyo,  he  alights  at  Ikeda,  for  the 
station  of  Nakaliziimi,  1  ri  8  cho 
distant;  if  down  the  line  in  the 
direction  of  Kyoto,  he  alights  at 
Kakano-machiy  for  the  station  of 
Hamaiiiatsil,  1  ri  28  cho  distant. 
Another  good  halting-place  is  Unna 
(Inn,  Ikeda-ya),  a  resort  of  pilgrims 
en  route  for  the  shrine  of  Akiha- 
san  (see  Route  38). 

The  charge  for  a  boat  was  fixed 
in  1890  at  §20,  the  justification  of 
this  seemi^gjy  high  price  being 
the  fact  th^gfit  takes  from  10  to  12 
days  to  tow  the  boat  up  stream 
again.  Boats  being  not  always  in 
readiness,  it  may  be  advisable  to 
write  ahead  (in  Japanese,  of  course) 
to  the  innkeeper  at  Tokimata  to 
order  one  with  4  boatmen.  Tra- 
vellers are  also  recommended  to 
time  their  movements  so  as  to 
arrive  at  Tokimata  on  the  after- 
noon previous  to  their  descent  of 
the  rapids.  This  will  enable  them 
'to  make  all  arrangements  overnight 
and  to  start  early.  A  spare  hour  at 
Tokimata  can  be  pleasantly  spent 
in  visiting  the  picturesque  bridge 
less  than  1  H  down  the  river,  at  the 
spot  where  the  rough-and-tumble 
part  of  its  course  begins. 

The  scenery  of  the  Tenryti-gawa 
is  most  striking.  After  passing 
the  bridge  mentioned  above,  the 
river  enters  a  rocky  ravine,  and 
from  this  point  on  to  Nishinoto,  a 
passage  of  some  6.^  hrs.,  is  almost 
one  continued  series  of  rapids  and 
races.  Walled  in  between  forest- 
clad  mountains  that  rise  abruptly 
to  a  height  of  from  1,000  ft.  to  2,000 


ft.,  the  river  twists  and  tears  along- 
their  rocky  base,  carving  for  itself  a 
channel  where  there  seems  no  pos- 
sible means  of  exit.  It  is  in  such 
places  that  the  skill  of  the  boat- 
men will  be  most  admired,  where 
the  boat,  which  looks  as  if  it  must 
be  dashed  to  pieces  in  another 
moment,  is  shot  round  the  corner 
only  to  be  whirled  on  to  some  new 
danger  equally  exciting.  Fortu- 
nately for  the  lover  of  the  pictur- 
esque, some  blasting  which  was  un-^ 
dertaken  a  few  years  ago  with  a  view 
to  facilitating  the  transport  of  pro- 
duce, has  had  no  very  marked  effect 
in  marring  the  ruggedness  of  nature 
in  this  place.  On  approaching  a 
rapid  the  man  forward  beats  the 
bow  of  the  boat  with  his  paddle, 
both  as  a  signal  to  the  others  and 
in  the  superstitious  belief  that  it 
will  bring  good  luck.  Of  the 
rapids  i)roperly  so-called,  there  are 
upwards  of  thirty,  the  finest  of 
whicli_  are  :  Yagura  (The  Turret), 
near  Oshima ;  Shiii-taki  (New  Cas- 
cade), 3  H  below  Mitsushima;  Taka- 
ze  (Hiiih  Rapid) ;  Chdna  (Adze), 
just  beyond  Otaui ;  Konnyaku  (Po- 
tato) ;  Shiror-nami  (White  Waves) ;, 
lori  ga  taki  (lori's  Cascade)  ;  and 
Tania-buro  (Mountain  Bath),  the 
grandest  of  all,  notwithstanding  its- 
homely  name. 

[Nagoya,  on  the  Tokaido  RaiU 
way,  may  be  reached  from  lida 
by  following  the  Ina  Kaido  to- 
Nebano,  from  which  place  to- 
Nagoya  is  a  distance  of  22  ri 
32  cho  through  the  Potteries 
(see  next  Route).  The  road  is- 
heavy  and  difficvilt  for  jinriki- 
shas.  The  itinerary  from  lida- 
to  Nebane  is  as  follows  : 


IIDA  to  :— 
Nakamura . . . 

Komamba  2 

Ono 1 

Namiai   2     10    5i 

Hiraya    2      5     5| 

NEBANE  2     18    6 


Ri.  Cho.  M. 
1     14     3i 
2     5 
13     3i 


Total 11     26  28^ 


242 


Houtc  36. — From  Xafjo}ja  to  Xvhane 


This  altornative  way  of 
roach iuj?  the  Tokaido  from 
Tida  may  bo  found  of  use  in 
the  event  of  any  accident  pre- 
ventincf  the  boat  journey  down 
the  Tenryu-gawa.] 


ROUTE  3G. 

From  Nagoya  through 

TEEIES    TO    NeBANE    ON 

Kaido. 

Itinerary. 

XAGOYA  to :—  J?». 

Seto  5 

Shimo  Shinano  ...  1 
Shimo  Hadagawa.. 

Ichinokura  1 

Tajimi  

Oroshi  1 

Sogi  2 

Okawa  1 

Akechi 2 

Kam imura   3 

NEBANE 3 

Total 22 


THE    POT- 
THE    IXA 


Cho. 
9 


12| 

Ol 

^  2 

27  n 

—  n 

3 


27 
3 

33 
38 
23 


15 
2^ 

4-J 

8f 
71 


32  55f 


This  road  is  practicable  for  jin- 
rikishas  as  far  as  Seto.  It  leaves 
Na.jroya  by  Ozone,  a  suburb  on  the 
N.E.,  and  traverses  in  succession 
the  insignificant  villages  of  Yada, 
Moriyama,  Obata,  Omori,  Arai,  and 
Imamura,  crossing  the  wide  bed  of 
the  Yadagawa  just  before  entering 
Moriyama.  From  this  point  it 
l^asses  over  large  tracts  of  flat 
sandy  soil,  producing  nothing  but 
pine  scrub.  On  the  r.,  some  2  m. 
distant,  a  range  of  low  hills  is 
visible.  Just  before  entering  Seto, 
a  path  1.  branches  off  direct  to  the 
vill.  of  Shinano. 

Seto  consists  of  four  hamlets 
named  Kita  Shingai,  Minami  Shin- 
gai.  Go,  and  Hora,  situated  on  the 
low  hills  that  surround  an  almost 
Kjircular  valley.    There  are  about 


eighty  households  engaged  in  tHe 
manufacture  of  porcelain,  and 
seventeen  or  eighteen  where  com- 
mon pottery  is  made.  The  porce- 
lain clay  is  found  in  the  immediate 
neighbourhood,  the  silica  bein^ 
brought  from  Sannagi  in  the  N.W. 
corner  of  Miliawa,  about  3  ri  dis- 
tant. A  large  part  of  the  couiinon 
pottery  known  as  Seto  ware  comes 
from  Akazu,  about  1  rl  further  iip 
the  valley  E.  The  best  porcelain 
makers  for  the  foreiiifn  market  are 
Kawamoto  Masukichi  in  Kita  Shin- 
gai, and  Kawamoto  Kansuke  in  Go. 
Kato  Gosuke  in  Minami  Shingai  is 
celebrated  for  his  translucent  white 
ware,  chiefly  small  pieces.  An- 
other superior  maker  is  Yamakyii. 
Specimens  of  their  productions  may 
most  easily  be  obtained  at  the 
warehouse  of  KatO  Kanesuke  in 
Kita  Shingai.  Most  of  the  pot- 
ters work  under  advances  from 
capitalists  in  Nagoya ;  and  as  soon 
as  ?ifourn^e  is  baked  they  despatch 
it  thither,  so  that  it  is  of  little  use 
going  direct  to  them  for  their 
wares. 

Seto  lins  been  so  fnmons  for  its  ceramic 
prcMluctseversiiu'e  the  l.'ith  century,  when 
Kato  Shirozneinon  set  up  his  kilu  for  th« 
manufacture  of  faience,  that  the  word 
Sefo-iuoiio,  lit.  '  .SV/o  thing's,*  has  come  t,o  he 
used  in  Japanese  as  a  preneric  name  for 
all  pottery  and  i>orcelain,  much  as  the 
word  China  is  used  in  English. 

The  road  now  winds  up  a  sandy 
valley  and  then  along  a  ridge 
of  sand  hills  to  Shimo  Shinano, 
where  a  little  porcelain  is  baked 
and  clay  is  dug  for  the  common 
pottery  made  at  Naka  Shinano. 
The  porcelain  clay  used  here  comes 
from  Seto.  The  path  to  Ichino- 
kura crosses  a  small  stream  on  the 
1.,  and,  climbing  up  to  the  top  of 
another  pine-scrub  waste,  suddenly 
plunges  into  a  deep  ravine  with. 
densely  wooded  rocky  sides,  be- 
tween which  flows  a  noisy  stream. 
This  spot  is  called  Ja-no-hara,  or 
the  '  Serpent's  Belly.'  Desceniting- 
to  the  mouth  of  the  ravine,  the 
path  comes  to  Shimo  Hada^wa^ 


throufjh  the  Potteries, 


24B 


siii'l,  crossing  the  stream  to  the  r., 
jiroceeds  ui>  the  valley  to  Kami 
Icliinokura,  and  over  the  hill  to 
Kasawara,  where  there  are  some 
I>otterie3.  It  then  descends  the  r. 
side  of  the  valley  to 

Tiljiilli  {Inn,  Matsu-j^a),  a  con- 
siderable vlll.,  where  inferior  porce- 
lain is  made.  A  short  cut  may 
"be  taken  through  Shimo  Ichino- 
kura,  where  is  i^roduced  the  finest 
l)orcelain  in  Mine,  with  delicfite 
<lecoration8  in  light  blue  de- 
rived from  the  impure  Chinese 
■cobalt.  Kato  Gosuke  is  the  best 
maker,  chiefly  of  tea-pots,  te.a-cups, 
and  sake  cups.  The  kilns  used  for 
producing  the  state  called  biscuit 
iXTG  also  utilised  for  yakl-tsuke,  or 
porcelain  with  a  design  over  the 
glaze. 

From  Tajimi  the  path  turns  up  a 
hill  to  the  r.  about  the  middle  of 
the  vill.,  and  traverses  undulating 
granite  hills.  On  the  way  nuiy  be 
seen  a  place  where  clay  is  dug  for 
baking  seggars,  and  further  on  is 
a  small  mill  driven  by  water-power, 
where  the  silicious  stone  used  for 
glaze  and  for  mixing  with  the  porce- 
lain clay  is  ground.  About  1  hr. 
walk  from  Tajimi  the  path  divides, 
the  r.  branch  going  to  Tsumagi,  and 
the  1.  descending  to  Oroshi,  where 
common  porcelain  wares,  chiefly 
sake  bottles  and  tea-pots,  are  pro- 
duced. Near  the  entriince  of  the 
vill.  is  a  small  mill  where  the 
porc<?lain  clfiy  is  broken  up  and  the 
felspar  sifted  out.  The  best  potters 
are  Yasaburo  Hanzaemon  and 
Kato  Yaheiji.  Most  of  the  produc- 
tion goes  to  Tajimi.  Tsumagi  lies 
\  ri  S.,  where  large  articles  of  com- 
mon porcelain,  such  as  dishes 
sind  basins,  are  made.  The  native 
cobalt  called  konjo  is  found  here, 
and  is  used  to  produce  the  pale  blue 
so  much  admired  by  connoisseurs. 
A  darker  shade  is  derived  from  an 
impure  cobalt  imported  from  China, 
and  known  among  the  potters  as 
kyugosu.  Our  word  cobalt  has 
been  corrupted  by  them  into  ko- 


haru^  and  tliis  term  is  employed  to 
denote  the  pure  pigment  obtained 
from  Europe.  At  the  E.  end  of  the 
village  the  path  divides,  the  1. 
branch  going  to  Dachi,  where  finer 
porcelain  is  produced,  and  the  r. 
climbing  a  ridge  to  a  considerable 
height,  which  commands  a  fine 
view  of  the  country  W.  A  quarter 
of  an  hr.  between  the  sandy  hill- 
tops covered  with  box,  brake, 
junipers,  and  young  pine-trees 
brings  us  to  the  top,  1,500  ft.  above 
the  sea.  The  descent  on  the  other 
side  leads  to  Sogi,  where  there  are 
one  or  two  potters.  Crossing  the 
bridge  and  looking  down  the  stream, 
we  see  the  lofty  round  top  of  Ena- 
san.  Sogi  is  chiefly  agricultural, 
and  extends  over  two  valleys,  di- 
vided by  a  low  ridge,  at  the  top  of 
which  the  path  falls  into  the  main 
road  from  Seto  to  Iwamura  by 
Shinano  and  Kakino.  After  de- 
scending slightly  the  road  rises 
again  through  the  second  part 
of  Sogi,  and  crossing  rough, 
granite  hills  of  the  same  general 
appearance  as  before,  but  rather 
steeper,  comes  down  into  the  tiny 
hamlet  of  Okawa.  During  the 
descent  Ena-san  N.E.,  and  the 
Koma-ga-take  of  Shinshu  N.E.  by 
N.  are  seen  well  away  on  the  hori- 
zon. Some  potters,  who  limit 
themselves  to  making  porcelain 
rice-bowls,  are  established  at  the  W. 
end  of  the  hamlet.  At  Mizukami, 
^  ri  further,  are  a  few  potters,  while 
at  Mashizume,  a  considerable  vill. 
^  ri  beyond,  a  large  quantity  of 
inferior  porcelain  rice-bowls  are 
produced.  Here  accommodation 
can  be  had  for  the  night;  bnt 
better  quarters  will  be  found  2^  ri 
further  at 

Akcclii  {Inn,  Sumiyoshi-ya),  a 
small  but  thriving  town.  Porce- 
lain, chiefly  tea-cups  and  rice- 
bowls  of  no  artistic  value,  is  baked 
in  the  town,  the  materials  bein^^ 
obt-ained  from  Mashizume  and 
Hara  in  its  vicinity.  The  pottery  es- 
tablishment dates  only  from  1875. 


244 


Boute  37.— The  Shinto  TemjAes  of  he. 


Akechi  Mitsuhide,  the  traitorous  gene- 
ral who  murdered  his  lord,  Nobunagra, 
took  his  sumainc  from  this  place,  and  the 
foundation  walls  of  his  castle  are  yet  to 
be  seen  on  a  hill  above  the  town. 

This  is  the  end  of  the  pottery 
district.  On  leaving  it  the  scenery 
gradually  improves,  sandy  hillocks 
being  replaced  by  thickly  wooded 
hills,  and  two  passes  of  over  2,500 
ft.  being  crossed  before  reaching 

Nebane  (Inn,  Snmiyoshi-ya). 
This  is  a  great  centre  of  traffic 
between  the  provinces  of  Shinshii 
and  Mikawa,  the  latter  sending 
fish  and  raw  cotton,  for  which  Shin- 
shii returns  tobacco,  hemp,  and 
dried  persimmons. 

Instead  of  returning  the  way  he 
came,  the  traveller  may  make  an 
agreeable  round  journey  by  follow- 
ing the  Ina  Kaido  to  lida,  11  ri  30 
chh  by  jinrikisha,  and  then  descend- 
ing the  Rapids  of  the  Tenryu-gawa 
to  the  Tokaido  ;  or  he  may  continue 
on  from  lida  along  the  Ina  Kaido, 
and  join  the  Nakasendo  at  Shio- 
jiri.  The  itinerary  of  the  latter 
way  is  as  follows. 

IIDA  to :—  Hi.  Cho.  M. 

Akao    7     19    18i 

Matsushima  5    27     14 

SHIOJIRI 5     31     14} 

Total 19      5    46i 


Another  way,  shorter  than  the 
last,  is  from  Nebane  to  Toyohashi 
on  the  Tokaido  Railway  via  the 
noted  temple  of  Horaiji. 

Itinerary. 

l^EBANE  to  :  -  Ri.  Cho.  M. 

Taguchi 4    28    11^ 

•     Ebi 2     24       6.^ 

Shinshiro  4     19     11 

TOYOHASHI  ...  4    25     11.} 

Total  16    24    40f 


ROUTE  37. 

The  Shinto  Temples  of  Ise. 

1.  preliminary  information.  2*. 
voyage  from  yokohama  to  yok- 
kaichi  and  kami  yashieo.  3- 
yamada  and  neighbourhood- 
the  temples  of  ise.  4.  from 
yamada  to  kyoto  by  road  anix 
kwansei  railway. 

1.  Preliminary  Information. 

Ise  is  the  name,  not  of  a  town^ 
but  "of  a  province  lying  to  the  E, 
and  S.E.  of  Kyoto  on  the  W.  shore 
of  Owari  Bay.  The  temples,  which 
rank  chief  among  the  holy  places 
of  the  Shinto  cult,  stand  on  the^ 
outskirts  of  the  town  of  Yama- 
dii  near  the  S.E.  frontier  of  the 
province.  The  ways  of  reaching^ 
Yamada  are  as  follows : 

I.  From  Tokyo  to  Atsuta  (former- 
ly called  Miya)  on  the  Tokaido- 
Railway,  1st  day;  thence  by  small 
steamer  via  Yokkaichi  and  Tsu 
to  Kami  Yasliiro,  the  port  of 
Yamada,  from  which  it  is  1  H 
16  cho  (3.2  miles)  by  jinrikisha, 
2nd  day.  Atsuta  being  the  next 
station  to  Nagoya,  some  may 
feel  disposed  to  spend  the  night 
at  the  European  hotel  at  tho 
latter  place  rather  than  at  one  of 
the  Japanese  inns  at  Atsuta.  It 
would  still  generally  be  possible  to 
catch  the  steamer  leaving  Atsuta 
next  morning.  * 

II.  Instead  of  the  railway,  take 
the  steamer  direct  from  Yokohama 
to  Yokkaichi,  where  tranship  as 
above  for  Kami  Yashiro.  This 
shortens  the  time  by  half  a  day  in 
fine  weather. 

III.  From  Kyoto  by  the  Tokaido- 
Railway  as  far  as  Kusatsu  Junc- 
tion, and  thence  ]'>y  Kwansei  Rail- 
way to  Seki,  4  lirs.,  whence  jin- 
rikisha to  Yamada  via  Tsu  and 
Matsuzaka  in  1  day.  When  the 
line  is  opened  from  Seki  on  to  Tsn„ 
the  journey  will  be  considerably 


Preliminary  Information,     Yoyafje  to  YokJcaichi,  245 


a1>ridged.    At  present  the  schedule 
is  as  •follows: — 

KwANSEi  Railway. 


Names 

e  a  * 

* 

OS  S  si 

of 

Remarks. 

S    M 

Stations. 



KUSATSU  Jet. 

5Sm. 

Ishibe. 

10 

Miknmo. 

15 

Fiikawii. 

224 

Tsuge. 

314 

SEKI    

CAlifflit  for 
',     Ise. 

(36 

Kametfama. 

45 

Kawarufiit. 

* 

4)1 

Yokkuichi.) 

IV.  There  is  a  cross-country  road 
from  Nava  to  the  Temples  of  Ise, 
practicable  for  jinrikishas  and 
occasionally  affordinsj  pretty  views. 
It  is  much  frequented  by  pilgrims. 
The  trip  takes  2\  days,  the  itine- 
rary being  as  follows : 

NARA  to—  jBj.  CU. 

Sakurai    2  20 

Hase 1  23 

Haibara    1  J  5 

Sambon-matsu 2  17 

Nabari 2       1 

Ao 3       4 

•Iseji 35 

Kaito 2  18 

Onoki 2  13 

Rokken 3  — 

Matsnzaka  1  27 

YAMADA   5      1 


M. 

^\ 
4 

0 

o 

7^ 

0 

:A 

71 
121 


Total 28     30  70 


The  main  Ise  road  is  joined  at 
Rokken.  The  best  inns  at  the 
various  places  mentioned  in  the 
above  ways  to  Ise  are  as  follows  : — 

At  Atsuta,  Okada-ya,    Ise- 

kyu. 
Hase,  Idani-ya,      Yo- 

shino-ya. 
Iseji,  Momiji-ya. 

Kaito,  Momiji-ya. 

Kami-Yashiro,    Ozaki-ya. 
Matsuzaka,         Tai-ya. 
Nabari,  Tawara-ya. 


y* 


y* 


y* 


y* 


»» 


n 


At  Nagoya,  Shina-chii  (Ho- 

tel du  Pro- 
grea),  *  Shu- 
kin-ro. 

Onoki,  Fuji-ya. 

Rokken,  Hotei-ya, 

Sakurai,  *Taba-ichi. 

Sambon-matsu,  Mushi-ya. 

Seki,  Uo-ya. 

Tsu,.  *Waka-roku. 

Yamada,.  *Abura-ya. 

Yokkaichi,  Hamada-ya. 

It  should  be  premised  that  the 
interest  of  the  trip  to  Ise  is  chiefly 
antiquarian.  Without  going  so  far 
as  to  say,  with  a  disappointed  tour- 
ist, that  "  there  is  nothing  to  see, 
and  they  won't  let  you  see  it,"  we^ 
may  remind  intending  travellers  of 
the  remarkable  plainness  of  all 
Shinto  architecture,  and  add  that 
the  veneration  iu  which  the  shrines 
of  Ise  are  held  is  such  that  none 
but  the  priests  and  Imperial  per- 
sonages are  allowed  to  penetrate 
into  the  interior.  The  rest  of  the 
world  may  only  peep  through  the 
outer  gate. 

2. — The  Voyage  to  Yokkaichi 
AND  Kami  Yashiro. 

The  Tokaido  Eailway  journey 
being  fully  described  in  Route  38, 
we  shall  suppose  that  the  traveller 
has  elected  to  go  by  sea,  and  advise 
him  to  begin  by  enquiring  whether 
there  is  any  European  food  to  be 
had  on  board,  and  if  not,  then 
to  take  provisions  with  him  for 
the  18  or  20  hrs.  voyage  from 
Yokohama  to  Yokkaichi,  as  well 
as  for  the  further  voyage  next  day 
on  to  Kami  Yashiro.  The  voyage 
is  the  same  as  that  described 
in  Route  40  as  far  as  the  entrance 
of  Owari  Bay,  where  the  track 
diverges,  the  steamer  turning  to 
the  r.  up  the  bay  near  the  head  of 
which  Yokkaichi  is  situated.  The 
scenery  at  the  entrance  is  very 
pretty.  The  ship  passes  between 
r.  Irako-zaki,  the  hilly  promontory 
that  forms  the  S.W.  extremity  of 


246 


Route  37. — TJie  Shinto  Temples  of  Jse, 


the  province  of  Mikawa,  and  1.  the 
islet  of  Kamishima,  behind  whose 
white  and  red  cliffs  lie  otlior  larger 
islands  and  the  mainland  of  the 
diminutive  province  of  Shima. 
Ahead  and  to  the  r.,  as  the 
ship  glides  into  the  still  waters 
of  the  landlocked  bay,  are  seen 
portions  of  the  provinces  of  Mikawa 
and  Owari,  notably  Cape  Moro- 
zaki,  the  tip  of  the  peninsula 
on  which  stand  the  commercial 
towns  of  Handa  and  Taketoyo,  con- 
nected with  the  Tokaido  by  a 
branch  line  of  Eailway. 

At  Yokkaiclli  it  is  necessary  to 
land  in  a  small  boat.  Indeed  the 
extreme  shallowness  of  Owari  Bay 
prevents  any  but  quite  small  craft 
from  approaching  the  shore  at  any 
point.  The  Hamada-ya  inn  is  at 
the  landing-place.  Tall  chimneys 
rise  above  the  roofs  of  the  houses, 
giving  the  town  an  appearance 
which,  at  least  for  Japan,  is 
peculiar.  The  situation  is  a  good 
one,  there  being  fresh  breezes  from 
the  bay  in  summer,  and  a  fine  pro- 
spect of  the  mountains  on  the 
borders  of  Omi  and  Iga.  Among 
the  principal  products  of  Yok- 
kaichi  may  be  mentioned  oil,  rice, 
paper,  silk,  and  Banko  faience, 
— a  ware,  for  the  most  part, 
exceedingly  light  and  having  hand- 
modelled  decoration  in  relief.  The 
best  Banko  shop  is  that  kept  by 
Kawamura  Matasuke  in  Minami- 
machi ;  but  as  every  variety  of  this 
cheap  and  fascinating  ware  is 
easily  procurable  in  Yokohama  and 
Kobe,  there  is  no  call  to  stop 
over  a  steamer  on  its  account. 
At  Yokkaichi  the  excellent  Nip- 
pon Yiisen  Kwaisha  Steamer  is 
exchanged  for  a  small  coasting  one. 
Leaving  Yokkaichi,  the  views  are 
delightful  as  one  skirts  the  W. 
shore  of  Owari  Bay.  In  the  dis- 
tance are  the  mountains  of  Omi, 
Iga,  and  Ise,  and  in  the  fore- 
ground a  pine-clad  beach,  forming 
a  delicious  symphony  of  yellow, 
green,  and  greyish  blue,  especially 


when  seen  through  the  opal  haze  of 
spring  or  autumn.  The  steamer 
calls  in  at  Tsu,  the  capital 
of  the  prefecture  of  Mie,  at  sl 
little  more  than  half-way  to  Kami 
Yashiro ;  total  time  of  voyage, 
about  5  hrs.  (If  one  embarked  at 
Atsuta,  then  from  7  to  8  hrs.) 

[It  is  possible  to  travel  on  in  tlie 
same  steamer  right  round  the 
coast  of  the  province  of  Kislio, 
calling  in  at  some  twenty  small 
ports,  and  ending  up  at  Kobe 
and  Osaka.  The  coast  scenery- 
is  charming,  but  the  means  of 
transit  too  uncomfortable  to 
be  recommended  unless  fine 
weather  were  a  certainty.] 

The  Ozaki-ya  inn  at  Kami 
Ynsliiro  is  at  the  landing-place. 
The  road  on  to  Yamada  is  excel- 
lent. Indeed  throughout  the  pro- 
vince of  Ise  the  excellence  of  the 
roads,  of  the  jinrikishas,  and  the 
jinrikisha-men  adds  considerably 
to  the  traveller's  enjoyment.  It  is 
also  possible  to  travel  in  carriages 
which  resemble  small  prison- vans. 
.Pilgrims  avail  themselves  largely 
of  this  method  of  progression,  which 
is  cheaper  than  jinrikishas,  but 
also  slower. 

,  3. — Yamada  and  Neighbourhood  ; 
The  Temples  of  Ise. 

Yamndn  {Inns,  *Abura-ya,  and  no 
less  than   269    others,   great   and 
small)  is  a  large  town  formed  by  the 
amalgamation  of   several    smaller 
ones — Y''amada  proper,  Uji,  Furu- 
ichi,  etc.     It  lives  by  and  for  the 
Ise  pilgrims,  as  do  all  the  towns  on 
the  road  leading  to   it  from  the 
North.      So    openly    is    this   fact 
acknowledged  that  the    construc- 
tion of  the  projected  Sangu  Tetsvdo, 
or    Pilgrim    Eailway,    from   Tsu 
to  Yamada,  has  been  temporarily 
abandoned  in  order  not  to  ruin  the 
country-side.    The  inns  and  tea- 
houses of  Yamada  are  peculiarly 
lively,  especially  at  night.   At  some 
of  them  a  celebrated  dance  is  per- 


Yamada. 


247 


formed,  called  tlie  lae  Ondo.  This 
dance  possesses  much  grace,  added 
to  the  interest  of  a  considerable 
antiquity.  Unfortunately,  how- 
ever, the  character  of  the  houses 
at  which  alone  it  is  generally 
to  be  witnessed  precludes  us  from 
recommending  a  visit  thither.  A 
religious  dance  called  Kagura  is 
executed  at  the  temples  before 
those  pilgrims  who  choose  to  pay 
for  it.  It  is  divided  into  three 
grades,  called  "Small,"  "Great," 
and  "  Extra  Great "  (Shd,  Daiy  DaU 
dai).  The  charges  for  these  dances 
were  in  1891  as  follows  : 

Ise  Ondo $  2 

8hd  Kagura 5 

Dai  Kagura 10 

Dai-dai  Kagura 20 

Among  the  peep-shows  and  booths 
in  which  the  main  street  of  Ya- 
mada  abounds,  are  some  devoted 
to  yet  another  kind  of  dance  which 
may  be  seen  for  a  cent  or  two.  It 
is  called  O  8ugi  0  I'ama.  The  fun 
consists  in  the  spectators  flinging 
coppers  at  the  iaces  of  the  girls 
who  form  the  little  orchestra,  and 
who  are  trained  to  -such  skill  in 
*  ducking '  that  it  is  said  they  are 
never  hit.  The  chief  objects  for 
sale  at  Yamada,  besides  holy  pic- 
tures and  other  articles  of  Shinto 
devotion,  are  ornamental  tobacco- 
pouches  made  of  a  i)eculiar  sort  of 
oil-paper. 

The  best  way  to  see  the  sights  of 
Yamada  and  neighbourhood  is  to 
go  the  following  round  which  takes 
a  day  by  jlnrikisha  to  do  comfort- 
ably : — ^f rom  the  inn  to  the  Gekii 
Temple,  Futami,  Asama-yama,  the 
Naikd  Temple,  and  baek  to  the  inn. 
The  road  is  flat  and  good,  except- 
ing up  Asama-yama,  where  there  is 
an  ascent  of  22  cho  on  foot,  the  jin- 
rikishas  being  meanwhile  sent 
round  the  base  to  await  the  traveller 
on  the  other  side.  One  may  con- 
veniently picnic  either  at  the  inn 
at  Futami  or  on  the  top  of  Asama- 
yama.    It  may  be  mentioned  that 


local  Japanese  parlance  indicates 
respect  for  the  great  temples  by 
suffixing  the  word  San,  *  Mr./  to 
their  names, — thus  Naikii  San,  GekvL 
San,  pronounced  Naixan,  Gexan, 

Thousands  of  pilj^i-iins  resort  nnniially 
to  the  temples  of  Ise,  chietly  in  spring-, 
wheu  the  country-folk  have  more  leisure 
than  at  other  seasons.  The  rationalistic 
educated  classes  of  course  take  little  part 
in  such  doinirs  ;  but  even  at  the  present 
day  the  majority  of  artisans  in  'J^okyo, 
and  still  more  in  Kyolx)  and  Osaka, 
believe  that  they  may  find  difficulty  in 
^aininc;  a  livelihood  unless  they  invoke 
the  protection  of  the  tutelary  goddesses  of 
Ise  by  performing?  the  piljri-imaKe  at  least 
once  in  their  lives,  and  the  peasants  are 
even  more  devout  )>elievers.  In  former 
times  it  was  not  uncommcni  for  the  little 
shop-boys  of  Yedo  to  abscond  for  a  while 
fi-om  their  employers,  and  to  wan<ler 
alonj?  the  Tokaido  as  far  as  Ise,  subsist- 
in*?  on  the  alms  which  they  bejjr^ed  fn>m 
tmvellei-s ;  and  having  obtained  the  bun- 
dle of  charms,  consisting  of  bits  of  the 
wood  of  whiph  the  temples  are  built,  they 
made  their  way  home  in  the  same  manner. 
This  surreptitious  method  of  performing 
the  pilgrimage  was  called  uKkp-mairl,  and 
custom  forba<le  even  the  sternest  ]>arent 
or  master  from  finding  any  fault  witli  the 
young  devotee  who  had  ])een  so  far  for  so 
holy  a  purpose.  Stories  are  even  told  of 
dogs  having  performed  the  pilgrimage  hj 
themselves.  Those  whose  home  is  Kyoto 
are  m**t  by  their  friends  at  the  suburb  of 
Keage  on  their  return  home.  The  custom 
is  for  these  friends  -  mostly  females  -  to 
ride  out  singing  the  tune  of  the  Ise  Ondo 
dance,  three  persons  being  seated  on  each 
horse,  one  in  the  middle,  and  one  on 
either  side  in  a  sort  of  wooden  hod  or 
basket.  High  revel  is  held  at  the  tea- 
houses with  which  Keage  alxiunds.  This 
custom  is  termed  naku'innkiii.  .  The  Ise 
pilgrims  may  l)e  distinguished  bj'-  their 
gala  clothes  and  by  the  large  bundles  of 
charms  wrapped  in  oil-paper  or  placed  in 
an  oblong  varnished  ]k)x,  which  they 
carry  suspended  from  their  necks  by  "a 
string. 

The  special  characterof  sanctity  attach- 
ing to  the  Ise  temples  arises  ]>artly  from 
their  extreme  antiquity,  partly  from  the 
pre-eminence  of  the  godclesses  to  whom 
they  are  dedicated.  The  iW/iA-S,  lit.  '  Inner 
Temple,'  is  l^elieved  by  the  Japanese  to 
date  from  the  year  4  B.C.,  and  is  sacred  to 
the  Sun-Goddess  Ama-terasu,  ancestress 
of  the  Mikados.  Down  to  the  14th  century, 
some  virgin  Princess  of  the  Imperial 
family  was  always  entrusted  with  the 
care  of  the  mirror  which  is  the  Sun-God- 
dess's emblem,  and  of  which  some  Japa- 
nese writers  speak  as  if  it  were  itseU  a 
deity,  while  others  take  it  to  he  merely 
the  image  of  the  goddess.  It  is  kept  in 
a  box  of  chamaecyparis  wood,  which  rests 


£48 


p.fjute  37.— The  Shiiitu  Temples  of  he. 


on  a  low  stand  covere<l  with  a  piece  of  I 
white  8ilk.    The  min-or  itself  is  wrai)i)etl  , 
in  a  bHjf  of  brocHcle,  which  is  never  opened  , 
or  renewed  ;  Init  when  it  l)ej?ins  to  fall  to 
pieces  fi-om  a«<e»  another  liag  is  pnt  on,   | 
so  that  the  actual  coverinj?  consists  of 
many  layers.    Over  the  whole  is  placed  a 
jBort  of  wcxxlen  cage  with  onraments  said  i 
to  be  of  pure  gold,  over  which  again  is 
thrown  a  cloth  of  coarse  silk,  falling  to  i 
the  floor  on  all  si<les.     The  coverings  of 
the  box  are  all  that  can  l)e  seen  when  the   | 
doors  are  ojiened  at  the  various  festivals. 
The  6 flu,  or  'Outer  Temple,'  so-called 
hecause  of  its  slightly  inferior  sanctity,  is 
now  dedicated  to  the  Go(hless  (»f  Food,   ' 
Toyo-uke-bime-no-Kami,  also  called  Uke- 
mochi-ncvKami,  but  was  in  earlier  times 
under  the  patronage  of  Kuni-toko-tachi- 
no-Mikoto,  a   g(Ml  whose  name    signifies 
literally    *  His    Augustness    the    Karthly 
IStemally  StandingOne  '    In  either  case 
this  temple  may  l)e  considered  as  sacred 
to  the  worship    of  a  deification    oE  the 
earth,  wliile  the  Xaiku  is  dedicated  to  a 
deification  of  the  sun,  the  great  ruler  of 
heaven.   The  native  authorities  do  not  in- 
form us  of  tlie  cliHrHcter  of  the  emblem  by 
which  the  Karth-(TO<ldess  is  represented. 
As  in  the  ease  of  other  .'^hinto  temples,  so 
here  also  at  Ise  many  secondary  <leities 
{ai-dono)  are  invoked.    Those  of  tlie  yuilu 
are  Taj ikai-a-o-no- Kami,  lit.  *  tbe  .-trong- 
Handed-Male-Deity,'  who  pulle<l  tbe  Sun- 
Goddess  out  of  the  cave  to  which  she  bad 
retired  to  avoid  her  brother's  ill-usage, 
and  a  gcKldess  who  whs  one  of  the  ances- 
tresses of  the  Imperial  line.     The  second- 
ary deities  of    the   (rein    arc  Ninigi-no- 
Mikoto,  gnindsou  to  the  Suu-Gtxldess  and 
ancestor  of  the   Imperial  liue.  and  two  of 
the  gods  who  attended  him  on  the  occa- 
sion of  his  descent  from  heaven  to  earth. 

A  very  ancient  rule  i)rescril>es  that  the 
two  gieat  Ise  temples,  as  also  every  minor 
edifice  connecte*!  with  them,  shall  l)e 
razed  tt)  the  ground  and  i-econstructed 
every  twenty  years  in  exactly  the  same 
style  down  to'the  mimrtest  detail.  For 
this  purpose  there  are,  lioth  at  the  Nailu 
and  at  the  GAu,  two  closely  adjacent 
sites.  The  construction  of  the  new  tem- 
ples is  commenced  on  the  vacant  sites 
towards  the  end  of  the  pericwl  of  twenty 
years  ;  and  when  they  are  finished,  the 
ceremony  of  Senyyo,  or  *  Tiunsference,' 
takes  place,  the  sacred  emblems  l)eing 
then  st)lemnly  and  amidst  a  great  con- 
ocmrse  of  pilgi'ims  removed  to  the  new 
buildings  from  the  old.  These  are  forth- 
with pulled  down  and  cut  up  into  myriads 
of  channs  (o  hurui),  which  are  sold  to 
pilgrims.  The  renovation  last  took  place 
in  October,  1889.  The  immemorial  anti- 
quity of  the  Ise  temples  is  therefore  only 
the  antiqnit.^'  of  a  continuous  tradition, 
not  that  of  the  actual  edifices.  It  is  pro- 
hable,  however,  that  at  no  time  for  many 
cjenturies  past  could  Ise  have  l)een  seen  to 
such  advantage  as  at  present,  when  the 
lainnte  and   enthusiastic   researches  of 


four  generations  of  scholars  of  the  '  PhintQ* 
Revival '  sch{K)l  Into  the  religious  archaeci- 
log>-  of  their  nation  have  at  last  met 
with  official  enc(mragement,  and  the 
priests  have  l>een  endowe<l  with  the  pecw- 
niar:^'  meaus  to  realise  their  dreana  of 
restoring  the  Japan  of  to-day  to  th^ 
religious  in-actices,  architecture,  and 
ritual  of  pristine  ages  untouched  by  the- 
foreign  influence  of  Buddhism. 

Leaving  the  Aburaya  inn  and 
wending  through  the  town,  wo 
pass  r.,  in  Okamoto-cho,  the  Shim- 
pu  Kosha,  where  are  sold  small  gold 
and  silver  medals  called  Shimiju 
inscribed  with  the  name  of  the- 
Gekri  temple,  together  with  other 
cliarms. 

The  Gvku  Temple.     The  approach 
is  pretty.     A  Shin-eny  lit.    'divine- 
park/  containing  a  circular  lake^ 
has  replaced  the  houses  and  field* 
that  covered  the  place  previous  to- 
1889,  and  beyond  rises  a  hill  finely 
timbered  with  cryptomerias,  hugti- 
camphor-trees,  maples,  keyalcl,  and 
the  sacred    though   not   imposing 
masakaJci  (Cleyem  japonica).      Thtf 
main   entrance   is   by   the   Ichi  »io 
Toni,  or  '  First  Archway,'    to  whoso 
r.   is  the  Sanshusho,  lit,  *  Place  of 
Assembly,*  where  members  of  tht^ 
!  Imperial      family     change      their 
garments  i)revious  to  worshippintjj- 
in  the  temi)le.     A  broad  road  leads. 
I  hence   through    the    trees   to   the 
i  temple.     A  short  way  up  it  is  the 
Ni  no  Torii,  or  '  Second  Archway/ 
near  which  is   a  shop  for  the  sale 
of  pieces  of  the  wood  used  in  the 
I  construction  of  the  temple,  packets 
of  rice   that  have  been  offei*ed  to 
'  the   gods,   and    o  fuda,    or    paper 
I  charms  inscribed  with  the  name  of 
,  the  Goddess  of  Food.    Next  door  is 
I  a  buildingwhere  the  fcagura  dances 
are   performed  at  the  request  of 
pious  pilgrims,  and  where  the  food 
I  offerings    are  sold    for  a  few   sen 
i  a  meal.     Beyond  these    buildings 
!  we   soon  reach  the  enclosure  con- 
taining the  Geku,  or  actual  temple, 
concealed  for  the  most  part  behind 
a  succession  of  fences.    The  outer 
fence,    called  Ita-gaki,  is  built  of 
cryptomeria   wood,   neatly  planed 


The  Gehu  Temple, 


249 


.and    unpainted.      It  is   339  ft.  in 
width  at  the  front,  and  835  ft.  in 
the  real* ;  the  E.  side  is  247  ft.,  the 
"VV.    side  235  ft.  long,  so  that  the 
jshape    is    that    of    an     irregular 
olilong,  the  formation  of  the  ground 
rather  than  any    necessary   rela- 
tion of  numbers  having  determined 
the   proportions.     The  temple  on 
the  alternative  site,  which  was  hewn 
-down  in   1889,  had  its    long  side 
E.  and  W.,  and  the  short  N.  and  S. 
A  little  to  one  side  of  the  middle 
of  the  front  face  is  the  principal  en- 
trance, formed  of  a  torii  similar  to 
those  already  passed,  but  of  small- 
■er  dimensions.    The  screen  opposite 
is  called  a  hampei.     There  are  four 
other   entrances    in    the    Ita-gaki 
'formed  each  by  a  torii,  one  on  each 
Bide  and  two  at  the  back,  one  of 
which  belongs  to  the  JlfiAre-d^n,  where 
the  food  offerings  are  set  out  twice 
daily.     The  S.  toHi  gives  access  to 
a  small  court,  the  further  side  of 
which   is    formed  by  a    thatched 
^gateway    ordinarily    closed    by    a 
white  curtain,  while  the  ends  are 
formed  by  the  Ita-gaki.     On  the  1. 
hand     is    a     gate-keeper's    lodge. 
Unless  the  pilgrim  be  an  Imperial 
personage,  he  is  prevented  by  the 
curtain  from  seeing  much  further 
into  the  interior;  but  by  ascending 
Ji  bank  on  the  W.  side  of  the  en- 
closure, some  idea  of  the  general 
arrangement  of  the  temple  build- 
ings can  be  gained. 

The  curtain  here  mentioned  has  a 
melancholy  historical  interest.  Viscount 
Mori,  Japanese  Repi-cscntative  first  at 
Washin^on  and  then  at  the  Court  of  St. 
.Tames,  afterwnwls  Minister  of  Education 
3ind  one  of  the  foremost  leaders  of  modem 
Japanese  projyress,  was  nssassinated  Ijy  a 
Shinto  fanatic'  for  havinj?,  when  (m  a 
visit  to  Ise,  lifted  this  curtain  with  his 
walkinp:-8tick  in  order  to  obtain  a  lietter 
view  of  the  interior  of  the  temijle  court. 
'ITie  muKler  did  not  take  place  at  once, 
but  some  months  later,  on  the  11  th 
February,  1889,  as  Mori  was  donning  his 
«»la  imi'form  for  the  ceremony  of  the  pro- 
mulgation of  the  Japanese  Constitution. 
The  assassin,  one  Nishino  Buntaro,  was 
immwliately  cut  down  by  the  Minister's 
-attendants  ;  but  by  an  obliquity  of  judg- 
ment not  uncommon  in  Japan,  popular 
sympathy  ranged  itself  so  markedly  on 


his  side  as  against  his  unfortunate  victim, 
that  i)ilgrimHges  were  made  to  his  grave 
in  the  Yanaka  cemetery  at  Tokj'O,  huii- 
flreds  of  wreaths  and  sticks  of  incense 
were  place<l  upon  it,  and  odes  composed 
in  the  assassin's  honour.  The  populu* 
infatuation  even  Avent  so  far  that  it  was, 
and  ))erhaps  still  is,  l)elieve(l  by  many 
that  Nishiiio  Buntaro' s  intercession  with 
heaven  will  ensure  the  fulfillment  of  any 
desire  offered  up  to  the  go..ls  through  him. 

The  thatched  gate-way  above- 
mentioned  is  the  principal  opening 
in  a  second  fence  called  the  Ara- 
gakiy  composed  of  cryptomeria 
trunks  alternately  long  and  short, 
placed  at  intervals  of  about  2i  ft., 
with  two  horizontal  railings,  one 
running  along  the  top,  the  other 
along  the  centre.  The  distance  of 
this  fence  from  the  outer  enclosurd 
varies  from  10  ft.  to  36  ft.  on  dif- 
ferent sides  of  the  square.  Besides 
the  torii  on  the  S.,  there  are  jbhree 
others,  one  on  each  side,  correspond- 
ing to  the  other  three  main  en- 
trances of  the  boarded  enclosure. 
These  are  unusual  in  style,  being 
closed  with  solid  gates,  an  aiTange- 
ment  rarely  seen  in  Shinto  tem- 
ples. In  side  the  thatched  gate-way 
is  a  shed  40  ft.  by  20  ft.  called 
tlie  8hijd-den,  a  restoration  of  one 
of  three  buildings  anciently 
called  Naorai-dono,  which  were 
set  apart  for  the  entertainment 
of  the  envoys  sent  by  the  Mikado, 
after  the  celebration  of  the  Kan- 
name  no  Matsuri,  or  'Festival  of 
Divine  Tasting.'  Just  inside  a 
small  torii  are  the  ishi-tsuho, — spaces 
marked  out  by  larger  stones,  r.  for 
the  Mikado's  envoy,  1.  for  the 
priests  of  the  temple.  At  a  dis- 
tance of  33  yds.  from  the  first 
thatched  gate-way  is  a  second, 
which  gives  access  to  a  third  court, 
surrounded  by  a  palisade  called  the 
Tatna-gaki,  formed  of  planks  about 
8  ft.  high,  placed  close  together. 
Just  within  this  court  is  a  small 
wooden  gate-way,  immediately  be^ 
yond  which  is  a  thatched  gate-way, 
forming  the  entrance  into  the  cen- 
tral enclosure.  This  enclosure  is 
surrounded  by  a  wooden  pahsado 


250 


Fiottte  37. — The  Shinto  Temples  of  Ise» 


called  Mieu-gaHy  and  is  almost  a 

perfect  square,  being  134  ft.  by  IJJl 

ft.     At  the  back  of  it  is  the  Shoden 

or  chapel,  on  the  r.  and  1.   of  the 

entrance  to  which  are  the  treasuries 

(hoden). 

The  chapel  is  34  ft.  in  length  by 

19  ft.  in   width.     Its  floor,  raised 

about  6  ft.   from  the  ground,   is 

supported  on  wooden  posts  planted 

in    the    earth.      A   balcony  3   ft. 

wide,  which  is   approached  by   a 

flight  of  nine  steps  15  ft.  in  width, 

runs  right  round  the  building,  and 

carries  a  low  balustrade,  the   tops 

of  whose  posts   are  cut  into  the 

shape  called  hoshu  no  tama^  which, 

strangely  enough,   is  a   Buddhist 

cfmament,  the  so-called  *  Precious 

Jewel  of  Omnipotence.'    The  steps, 

balustrade,  and  doors  are  profvisely 

overl9.id  with  brass  plates;  and  the 

external     ridge-pole,      cross-trees, 

and    projecting    rafters    are    also 

adorned  with  the  same  metal.    A 

covered  way  leads  from  the  inner 

gate  up  to  the  steps  of  the  chapel. 

The  two  treasuries   are  raised  on 

short    legs    or    stands,   after    the 

fashion. of  the  store-houses  of  the 

Ijoochooans.      They    are    said    to 

contain  precious  silken  stuffs,  raw 

silk  presented  by  the  province  of 

Mikawa,   and    trappings    for    the 

sacred  horses.      Between  the  Ita- 

gaki  and  the  Ara-gdki  stands  the 

Heihahu-den,   intended  to  contain 

the  offerings  called  gohei.   Another 

building  in  the  enclosure  is  the 

Mike-den,  where  the  water  and  food 

offered  up  to  the  gods  of  both  the 

Oeku    and    Naiku   are    daily    set 

forth,  in   winter  at  9  a.m.  and  4 

P.M.,  in  summer  at  8  a.m.  and  3  p.m. 

Up  to  A.D.  729,  the  food  offerinjrs  for  the 
Ifaiktl,  hayiog  first  been  prepared  at  the 
GekQ,  were  conveyed  to  the  former  temple, 
thei'e  to  be  set  out.  In  that  year,  as  this 
ceremony  was  beinp:  performed,  the  offer- 
ings were  unwittingly  carried  past  some 
polluting  object  which  happened  to  be  in 
the  road.  The  consequence  was  that  the 
Mikado  fell  sick,  and  the  diviners  attri- 
Imted  his  sickness  to  the  anger  of  the  Sun- 
Goddess.  Since  that  time  the  offerings 
for  both  temples  have  been  set  out  only  at 
the  GektU 


The  offerings  made  to  each  of  the- 
principal  deities  consist  of  four 
cups  of  water,  sixteen  saucers  of 
rice,  four  of  salt,  besides  fish,  birds, 
fruits,  seaweed,  and  vegetables^ 
The  offerings  to  each  lesser  deity 
are  the  same,  except  that  only  half 
the  quantity  of  fruit  is  provided. 

The  architecture  of  the  temples 
of  Ise  is  believed  to  represent  the 
purest  and  most  ancient  native^ 
Japanese  style. 

The  chief  festivals  are  the  *  Pray- 
ing for  Harvest '  (Kinen-sai),  4th 
February ;  *  Presentation  of  Cloth- 
ing' {Onzo-sai),  17th  April? 
'Monthly  festival'  (Tsuki-naini  no- 
matsuri),  1 5th  June  ;  *  Divine  Tast- 
ing* (Kan-name) f  15th  and  16th 
September ;  *  Harvest  festival  *^ 
(8hinzd-sai),  23rd '  November.  Be- 
sides these  a  *  Great  Purification ' 
(0-harai),  is  performed  once  every 
month,  and  also  before  each  of  the 
above-named  grand  festivals.. 

On  the  side  of  a  low  hill  to  the  S. 
of  the  chief  temple  buildings,  stand 
two  much'smaller  shrines.  That  to 
the  1.  is  known  as  Ara-matsuH,  that 
to  the  r.  as  Ame-no-miya.  Higher  up 
the  same  hill  is  the  Taka-no-miya. 

After  thus  seeing  as  much  as  is 
permitted  to  be  seen  of  the  Geku,  we 
re-enter  our  jinrikishas  and  speed 
along  an  excellent  level  road  to  Fu- 
tami,  a  distance  of  2  ri  10  cho.  Several 
villages  are  passed,  of  which  Kawa- 
saki and  Kurose  are  the  largest, 
and  an  unusually  long  bridge  called 
the  8hio-ai  no  hashi,  spanning  the 
estuary  of  the  Isuzu-gawa.  There 
are  constant  delightful  views  of  a 
mountain  range  to  the  r. 

Fiitanii  (Inn,  Onsen,  with  sea- 
bathing) is  considered  by  the  Japa- 
nese to  be  one  of  the  finest  points 
of  view  on  their  coast,  and  few 
art  motives  are  more  popular  than 
the  Myoto-seki,  or  '  Wife  and  Hus- 
band Eocks,' — two  rocks  close  to 
the  shore,  tied  together  by  a  straw 
rope. 

In  this  case  the  straw  rope  (tihime)  pro- 
bably symbolises  conjugal  union.    Tuer^ 


Futami,     The  Naiku  Teivple, 


251 


is,  bo-wever,  a  legend  to  the  effect  that 
the  goA  Susa-no-o,  in  return  for  ho6i)itality 
received,  instructed  a  poor  villager  of  this 
place  how  to  protect  his  house  fi-om  futui'e 
visitations  of  the  Pbigue-God  by  fastening 
such  a  rope  across  the  entrance.  A  tiny 
shrine  called  Somiii  Skdzai  no  Yaskiro  com- 
memorates the  legend. 

The  view  of  islets  and  bays 
stretching  away  eastwards  is  in- 
deed very  pretty,  and  the  rocks  at 
Futami  are  of  a  peculiar  character, 
being  chlorite  schist,  a  metamor- 
phic  slate.  It  may  nevertheless  be 
doubted  whether  Europeans  would 
single  out  Futami  for  special  praise 
from  among  the  countless  lovely 
scenes  in  Japan. 

[At  a  distance  of  2  ri  10  cho 
beyond  Futami  lies  the  beauti- 
ful harbour  of  TobA  {Inn, 
Osaka-ya)  in  the  province  of 
Shima,  which  may  be  reached 
by  jinrikisha.  The  private 
dockyard  there,  called  Tekkd- 
sho,  will  interest  some  tra- 
Tellers.  A  road  leads  hence  to 
the  celebrated  waterfall  of  Na- 
chi  in  Kishii,  and  right  round 
the  coast  of  that  province  to 
Wakayama  and  on  to  Osaka. 
As  already  mentioned,  small 
coasting  steamers  also  make 
the  round  touching  at  about 
twenty  ports.  The  roads  and 
accommodation  are  rough,  but 
the  scenery  delightful  and  the 
winter  climate  mild.] 

If  the  weather  be  fine,  none 
should  miss  the  view  from  Asama- 
yama,  which  is  one  of  the  grandest 
in  Japan.  As  explained  on  p.  247, 
this  mountain  stands  between 
Putami  and  the  Naiku  Temple,,  and 
all  except  some  22  cho  can  be  done 
in  jinrikisha.  The  highest  point 
where  tea-houses  are  found  and 
whence  the  celebrated  view  is  ob- 
tained, lies  1,300  ft.  above  the  sea. 
Below  in  the  foreground  is  Owari 
Bay,  while  on  the  horizon  stretches 
a  long  series  of  mountains, — 
Futago-yama  on  the  Hakone  pass, 
Fuji,  Yatsu-ga-take,  Akiha-san, 
the  volcano  of  Asama,  Koma-g^- 


take,  Tateyama  in  Etchu,  On- 
take,  Norikura  in  Hida,  Haku' 
san,  Aburazaka  in  Echizen.  Ibuki- 
yama  in  Omi,  Tado-san,  Mitsugo- 
yama,  Suzuka-yama,  andNunobiki- 
yama  on  the  W.  frontier  of  Ise. 
The  most  conspicuous  are  Haku-san 
and  On  take.  About  10  cho  along  the 
path  over  to  the  province  of  Shima 
is  the  Oku-no-in,  or  upper  temple, 
dedicated  to  the  Buddhist^  sainrt 
Kokuzo  Bosatsu  (Sanskrit,  Akdsha'* 
garhha).  It  is  a  very  pY*etty  little 
shrine. 

Rejoining  the  jinrikishas,  a  drive 
among  rice-fields  brings  us  to  the 
outskirts  of  Yamada,  where  behind 
its  new  8hin-en,  or  *  Divine  Park,' 
and  embosomed  in  an  antique 
grove,  stands  the  Naiku  Temple 
dedicated  to  the  Sun-Goddess  Ama- 
terasu.  The  arrangement  of  the 
temple  grounds  and  enclosure  is 
similar  to  that  at  the  Geku;  but 
the  Naiku,  as  the  more  sacred  of 
the  two,  is  on  a  somewhat  larger 
scale.  The  outer  enclosure  is  195 
ft.  in  front,  202  ft.  at  the  back,  and 
369  ft.  at  the  sides.  The  inner- 
most enclosure  (Mizu-^aki)  measures 
149  ft.  in  front,  150  ft.  at  the  back, 
and  144  ft.  on  each  side.  The  bare 
open  space  adjoining  the  temple  is 
the  alternative  site,  which  will  be 
used  to  build  on  in  the  year  1909, 
when  the  present  buildings  are 
pulled  down. 

4.— From  Yamada  to  Kyoto   bt 
boad  and  kwansei  railway. 

This  is  the  Kyoto-Ise  route 
sketched  out  on  pp.  244-5,  but  tra- 
versed in  the  opposite  direction. 
The  road  is  excellent  the  whole 
way  from  Yamada  to  Seki,  where 
the  Kwansei  Railway  is  joined,  and 
perfectly  flat  except  just  at  the 
end.  Numerous  towns  and  villages 
are  passed  through,  constant  bands 
of  pilgrims  are  met,  arrayed  in 
holiday  attire,  and  an  air  of 
bustle  and  prosperity  pervades  the 
whole  country-side.    To  the  1.  are 


252 


Eoiite  37, — The  Shinto  Temples  of  Ise. 


pleasant  views  of  the  Ise-Iga-Omi 
range.  The  well-cultivated  plain 
to  the  r.  mostly  appears  boundless, 
as  it  is  too  level  k)  allow  of  many 
glimpses  being  caught  of  Owari 
Bay  which  lies  beyond.  The  fol- 
lowing are  the  most  important 
places  on  the  way  : — 

Matsiiziika  (Inn,  Tai-ya).  The 
name  of  this  town  should  be  fami- 
liar to  air  Japanese  scholars,  as  the 
birth-place  of  Motoorii 

Motxx)ri  Norinaga,  the  prince  of  Japa- 
nese literati,  was  born  in  1730  and  died  in 
1801.  A  pupil  of  the  scarcely  less  distin- 
guished scholar  Mabuchi,  he  continued 
Mabuchi's  work  of  investigating  Japanese 
antiquity,  bringing  back  into  literary  use 
the  pure  ancient  Japanese  language, 
restoring  the  Shinto  religion  to  the  supi-e- 
macy  ot  which  Buddhism  had  robbed  it, 
in  a  word,  emphasising  and  glorifying 
everything  native  as  agaiust  that  part  of 
Japanese  civilisation  which  was  new  and 
of  foreign' origin.  The  restoration  of  the 
Mikado  to  the  absolute  authority  which 
centuries  before  had  been  usurped  by  the 
Shoguns,  w^as  natui-ally  a  prime  object  of 
the  endeavours  of  a  man  to  whoia  anti- 
quity and  perfection  were  convertible 
terms,  and  in  whose  belief  the  Mikado 
was  really  and  truly  a  descendant  of  the 
Goddess  of  the  Sun.  Motoori  and  his 
school  thus  became  to  some  extent  the 
authors  of  the  revolution  which,  half  a 
century  latei*,  overturned  the  Shogunate 
and  brought  the  Mikado  forth  from  seclu- 
aion  to  govern  as  well  as  reign.  Motoori's 
works  wei-e  very  numei'ous.  The  greatest 
is  his  elaVx>iute  commentary  on  the 
Kojiki,  called  Kojiki  Den^  which  is  prac- 
tically au  encyclopaedia  of  Japanese 
ancient  lore,  written  in  a  style  as  clear 
as  it  is  elegant.  The  printing  of  the  44 
volumes  of  which  it  consists  was  not  con- 
cluded till  1822,  long  after  the  author's 
death.  Motoori  was  tirst  buried  at  Myo- 
rakiiji,  some  miles  from  Matsuzaka. 

The  town  is  dominated  by  a  hill 
called  Yoio-no-Mori,  on  which 
stand  the  remains  of  the  castle 
founded  in  158-i  by  Kamau  Hida- 
no-Kami  XJjisato.  Below,  at  the 
entrance  to  the  grounds,  is  the 
little  Shinto  temple  of  Yamamuro 
Jhx^a,  dedicated  to  Motoori  who  has 
been  apotheosised  during  the  pre- 
sent reign. 

Tsn  (Inn,  *Waka-roku).  At  the 
entrance  to  the  town,  on  coming 
from  the  direction  of  Yamada  and 
JUatsuzaka,  stands  r.  a  temple  dedi- 


cated to  Yuki  Kotsuke  no  Suke,  » 
celebrated  retainer  of  Kusunoki 
Masashige.  It  dates  from  ISS^, 
and  offers  an  elegant  example  o£ 
modern  Shinto  architecture.  The 
same  grounds  contain  a  gaudily 
painted  little  shrine  of  HachimaiL. 
In  the  middle  of  the  town  are  two 
noted  Buddhist  temples,  known  as 
Ktvannonji  and  Ko  no  Amida.  The 
former  is  i*ather  tawdry,  the  latter 
exquisite  though  on  a  small  scale. 

The  legend  on  which  the  sanctity  of  tbis 
temple  rests,  is  a  good  example  of  the 
fusion  that  took  place  between  Buddhism 
and  iShinto  in  early  times.  A  Buddhist 
priest  named  Kakujo  made  a  pilgrimage 
of  one  hundred  days  to  the  shrine  of  the 
Sun-Go<lde8S  at  Ise  to  entreat  her  to 
reveal  to  him  her  original  shape,-!- tbe 
idea  in  those  days  l)eing,  that  the  Shinto 
deities  were  fivatars,  or  temporary  mani- 
;  testations  (Gongt-u),  of  which  Buddhist 
I  saints  were  the  originals  {Jlonchi  ButtHr}. 
On  the  hundi-edth  night  the  Sun-Goddess 
appeared  to  Kakujo  in  a  dream,  com- 
manding him  to  go  out  next  morning  on. 
the  seashore  of  Futami,  where  she  pro- 
mised to  show  herself  to  him  as  she  really 
was.  He  did  so,  and  there  appeared. 
floating  on  the  surface  of  the  wavea  & 

SM-coloured  serpent  over  ten  feet  lon^. 
ut  £he  priest  was  not  yet  satisfied. 
"  This,"  cried  he,  **  is  but  a  pious  frard 
on  the  part  of  the  divinity,  whose  real 
shape  that  monster  can  never  be,"— and. 
so  saying,  he  took  off  him  his  priestly- 
scarf  and  flung  it  at  the  serpent,  which  va- 
nished with  it  into  the  sea.  Three  nights 
later  the  Goddess  api)cared  to  Kaknjd  in 
a  second  dream,  and  said  :  "  The  serpent 
indeed  was  but  another  temporaiy  mani- 
festation. My  real  shape  is  preserved  in 
the  temple  of  Muryojuji  at  K5  in  the  dis- 
trict of  Suzuka  in  this  same  land  of  Ise. 
Go  thither  and  thou  shalt  see  it."  He 
went  accordingly,  and  found  that  Amida 
was  the  Buddhist  deity  there  worshipped. 
The  image  was  considered  so  holy  that 
the  priests  of  the  temple  at  fli-st  refused 
to  show  it ;  but  what  was  not  the  aston- 
ishment of  all  present  when,  on  Kakaj5*s 
request  l)eing  at  last  granted,  the  scarf 
which  he  had  thrown  at  the  sea-serpent 
was  found  twined  round  the  image's 
neck  !— All  this  happened  at  a  very  early 
period.  The  removal  of  the  temple  to 
Tsu  took  place  about  A.D.  1680,  when  the 
origiual  shrine  at  Ko  had  fallen  into 
decay,  and  the  image  had  been  found  one 
day  thi'own  down  on  the  place  where  the 
temple  now  holding  it  has  been  raised  in 
its  honour. 

The  holy  image  is  enclosed  in  a 
shrine  on  the  altar,  and  is  only 
exhibited  on  payment  of   a    te% 


Tsiu     lashinden,     Zeni-lcake-mnUu, 


253 


^'wlien  a  short  service  in  its  honour 
is  performed  and  the  legend  re- 
<3ited  by  the  attendant  priest.  R. 
and  1.  are  images  of  the  *  Kwannon 
of  the  Thirty-three  Places/  with 
"the  Shi  Tenno  in  front. 

The  *  Thirty-three  Places'  are  thiity- 
t;liree  shrines  sacred  to  Kwannon  in  the 
l>rovince8  surrounding  Kyoto.  Tliey  are 
«.ll  carefully  numliered,  the  first  l^einjuf 
Fudarakuji  at  Nachi  in  Kishti,  and  the 
last  TaniRumi-dera  in  Mino.  The  ])ilgrim- 
M^e  to  these  places  was  instituted  hy  the 
!Eiui>eror  Kwazan,  in  obedience  to  a  vision. 
This  monarch,  after  losing  his  tenderly 
loved  consort,  abdicated  in  the  year  98H, 
ftnd  becoming  a  monk,  devoted  himself 
thenceforward  to  devout  practices.  In 
imitation  of  the  original  Thirty-three 
Places,  thirty-three  other  places  have  been 
■established  in  Eastern  Japan,  and  also  in 
the  district  of  Chichibu. 

Behind,  and  continuing  all 
round  the  walls  of  the  building, 
Are  diminutive  images  of  all  the 
Bnddhas  and  Bosatsu,  called  Sen- 
-oku  Buisu,  lit.,  a  thousand  hun- 
dreds of  thousands  of  Buddhas. 
Among  other  objects  of  interest, 
note  the  very  large  wooden  figure 
representing  Buddha  dead.  It  is 
laid  on  real  quilts.  Gilt  and 
painted  carvings  of  Buddhas  and 
angels  fill  the  ramnia  of  the  chapel. 
The  green  coffered  ceiling  is  cov- 
«red  with  gilt  Sanskrit  characters 
in  relief.  A  mirror  in  front  of  the 
altar  attests  that  the  temple  be- 
longs to  the  Shingon  sect.  A 
small  octagonal  stmcture  to  the  1. 
•contains  gilt  images  of  the  Thirty- 
three  Kwannon.  If  possible,  this 
temple  should  be  visited  in  the 
evening,  when  there  are  almost 
always  crowds*  of  pilgrims,  who  — 
though  Ise  is  their  chief  objective 
point — also  think  it  well  to  pay 
their  respects  at  all'  the  lesser 
shrines  on  the  way  thither. 

Shortly  after  leaving  Tsu,  those 
who  can  appreciate  Buddhist  ec- 
clesiastical architecture  should  in- 
struct their  jinrikisha-men  to  turn 
a  few  yards  out  of  the  way  to  visit 
the  immense  temple  of  Senshuji 
more  commonly  called  Takata  no 
Ooho,  at  Isshinden. 


This,  the  chief  monastery  of  the  Takata 
su1)-sect,  was  founded  at .  TaVata  m 
fcihimotsuke  by  the  celebrated  ahljot  Shin- 
ran  Sh5nin  in  1226,  and  removed  herein 
1485  by  the  priest  >Shin-e. 

The  building  is  closely  similar  in 
style  and  scale  to  the  vast  Hon- 
gwanji  temples  described  under 
Tokyo  and  Kyoto,  which  is  as 
much  as  to  say  that  it  is  majes- 
tically spacious  and  chastely  rich. 
The  architectural  similarity  is  ac- 
counted for  by  the  fact  that  the 
Takata  and  Hongwanji  are  sister 
sects,  both  being  subdivisions  of 
the  great  Shin  sect. 

At  the  hamlet  of  Toyokuno  is  a 
sacred  tree,  called  Zeni-kake-matmi, 
because  the  faithful  are  in  the 
habit  of  tying  coppers  to  it  by- 
wisps  of  paper. 

This  custom  is  founded  on  the  followinir 
leffenrl :— In  the  yenr  838  a  nobleman  named 
Ono-nt)-TaVHraufa  had  been  banished  to 
the  0><i  Inlands  for  having  refused  to 
po  as  Mmbjissador  to  China.  So  hin  wife, 
disc^onsolHte,  resolved  to  make  apilgrrimaffe 
to  Ise  in  order  to  intercede  with  the 
Sun-Goddess  on  Ids  bertalf.  On  reachinRT 
this  bamlet,  she  enquired  the  wny  of  some 
srass-euttei"8,  who,  peroeivinor  )  er  to  be  a 
gentle  lady  unused  trt  trav»^l  and  dangler, 
told  her  ax  a  soriy  jest  that  the  shrine 
she  sought  was  still  twenty  days  distant. 
She  was  already  wearied  out,  und  had  bnt 
a  few  coppers  left.  So  believing  that  the 
Siin-Goddess  would  non'lesfend  to  listen  to 
tlie  pirnyers  of  the  faithful  w^herever  of- 
fered up,  she  flung  herself  down  before  the 
pine-tree  as  the  goddess's  emblem,  and 
then  tied  to  one  of  its  branches  all  the  cop- 
per coins  that  she  still  possessed.  The 
grass-r^uttei's,  avaricious  as  well  as  eruel, 
ntf*>fi  pted  t-o  st-eal  the  money  ;  but  forth- 
with it  chaneed  into  a  two-headed  serpent 
whirh  dartecl  out  u]K>n  them.  Thereupon 
they  were  converted  from  their  evil  ways* 
and  the  story  ends  by  their  escortinjr 
the  lady  on  the  short  journey  thence 
to  Ise,  and  by  eveiy  one  living  happily 
ever  after. 

Ono-no-Takamura  is  celebrated  as  the 
aut  or  of  a  set  of  verses  intended  as  a 
memorift  terhnica  for  students  of  the  C3ji- 
nese  ideographs,  which  _  is  still  in  common 
use.    The  following  is  an  example : — 


Ilrtru  tsnhafci 

m» 

Xntsft  wa  enoki  ni 

Sff 

Ak>  hisagi 

tkfSt 

Fuyu  wa  kilragi 

«^ 

Onojlku  wa  kiri 

mm 

// 

.1 


254 


Boute  37. — The  Shinto  Temples  of  Ise, 


The  rneaning  is  that  if  to  the  radical  for 
•tree'  be  added  the  chnraeter  for  *  Kpring,' 
the  resulting-  compound  is  *  camellia ' ;  that 
the  same  radical  and  '  summer '  combine  to 
form  the  enoki  ti'ee,  and  so  on. 

On  climbing  the  hill  that  leads 
into  the  valley  where  Seki  lies, 
the  long  serrated  peak  seen  1.  is 
Shakujo-ga-take,  while  Suzuka- 
toge    rises    straight     ahead.      At 

Seki  (Inn,  Uo-ya),  we  join  the 
Kwansei  Eailway,  built  sdongside 
a  portion  of  the  old  Tokaido  road 
which  is  crossed  and  recrossed. 
The  road  climbs  the  Suzuka-toge, 
but  the  railway  line  cuts  through 


it  by  two  tunnels.    The  gral^ 
is  nevertheless    steep  enoug]^ 
make  the  assistance  of  an 
engine  necessary.    The  scene] 
very  pretty  all  the  way  to  the 
station,  Tsiige.    The  valley 
opens  out  on  both  sides.     B< 
reaching  Mikiiiiio,  the  mouni 
about  Lake  Biwa  come  in  view' 
the  r.    At 

Kiisatsii   Junction,    where    it 
Kwansei  line  terminates,  the  ti^ 
veller  changes  carriages  for  Kyoti^ 
the  journey  of  a  little  over  1  hr.  %'   .^ij^ 
which  place  is  made  by  Tokai<||- 
Railway. 


\i 


It 


r 


SECTION  IV. 

ROUTES  CONNECTING  TOKYO 

AND  KYOTO. 

Routes  jS — 40. 


Bottte  38.— The  Tdkaidd. 


25t 


ROUTE  38. 

Thb  Tokaido  by  Bail  fbom  Tokyo 
TO  Kyoto  and  Kobe. 

IKTATEBFALLS  OF  SANG.  MIO-NO- 
MATSUBABA.  FBOM  OKITSU  TO 
8SIZUOSA  via  TEMPLES  OF  KUNO- 
ZAN.     FBOM  KAKEGAWA  TO  AKIHA. 


O       .  lA 

Names 

Stan 
from 
oky( 

of 

5    - 

Statioiii4. 

Remarks, 


H 
lOj 

125 

18 

26 

32i 

43 


49      Kdzu. 


f.5 

61 

71 

80 
86 


96 


101 
110 
114 

lao 

128 
132 
137 
140 
140 


TOKYO  (Sliim- 
bnshi) 

ShinagnwR '\ 

,  Omoii  I  ' 

Kawasaki  -  See  Route  2. 

Tsurumi I  i 

Kanagawa i ) 

YOKOHAMA.    , 
Hocloga.vv .  I 

Totsuka.  I  ! 

I  1  Clianpe  for, 

,  OFUNA  Jet !  J   Kamakura  & 

'  I  (  YokoBuka. 

Fujisawa. 

1  CAliorht  for  as- 1 

Hiratsuka  I  *  cent  of  Oya-' 

I  _  ,  (.  ma  (p.  61).     I 

.  Oiso. 

AUght  for  Mi- 
yauoshita, 
Hakone,  and 
Atami. 


Matsuda, 

Yamakita. 

Oyama. 

Gotemba... 


Sano. 
Numazu. 


Suznkawa 
Iwabuchi 


Kambara. 
Okitsu  ..... 


Kiiri. 

SHIZUOKA. 

Yaizu. 

Fujieda. 

Shimada. 

Kanaya. 

Hori-XLo-uchi. 


S  Alight  for  as- 
1  i  cent  of  Fuji, 


^Travellers 
f  i-om  the  west 
alight  for 
Fuji.  Atlwa- 
bnchi  alight 
for  Kami-ide 
waterfalls  (j>. 
121)  and  Mi- 
nobu  (p.  128.) 

( Excui*sion    to 
i  Kuno-zau. 


150 
156 


174 

180 
19f) 
196 
2(»1 
210 
22J 


228 
231 
235 
240 
240 
249 
254 
2f« 
2(W 
•i{7l 
278 


2F8 
297 
302 


I 


Kt^kegawa 
FnUuroi. 


)  Alight 
I     Akiha. 


for 


161     '  NaUaizumi 


168      HAMAMATSU. 


Maizaka. 

Washizu. 

Toyohashi. 

tioyu. 

Kamagovi. 

Okazaki. 

Kariya. 


TTravellers 

down  rapids 
1     of     Teitrytl 

&  l)ounfl  K. 

enter    train 

here,  v 
^Tenryil      tra- 
*      vellers     fori 

the  W.  enter! 

train  here. 


;l 


223      Obu 


j  ^Change  for 
1*  Kamesaki, 
1  )    Handa,    and 


Otaka. 

Atsuta. 

NAGOYA. 

Kiyosu. 

Ichinomiyu. 

Kisogawa. 

OIFU. 

Ogaki. 

Tarui . 

Seki-ga-hara. 

Nagauka. 


)    Hail 
L  Tak 


ketcno. 


284      MAIBARA  Jet. 


Hikone. 

Notogawa. 

Hachiman. 


Change  for! 
Nagaliama 
&  TsnrugH. 


313      EUSATSU  Jet. 


.ni9    '  Baba  (OTSU). 
321    I  Otaui. 
3245  '  Yamashina. 
327  a     Inari. 

329      KYOTO. 

383      Mukomachi. 
3375  I  Yamazaki, 
H425  I  Takatsuki. 
34fi*.     Ibaraki. 
351    I  Suita. 

359      OSAKA 


{ 


Kwansei  Rail- 
way, see  p. 
245.  , 


361 
365 
870 
375 

376 


KanzaVi. 

Nishinomiya, 

yumiyoshi. 

Saunomiya. 

KOBE. 


Alight    for' 
I J     Nara   and 
.  (     bakai.  i 


The  word  TokaUlo  signifies  '£ast«>m 
sea  road**  The  name  was  given  to  this* 
road  at  an  early  date  on  account  of  itH- 
running  along  the  seM-shore  in  an  easterly 
direction  from  Kyoto,  which,  being  the  o\A 


258 


Boiite  38.— The  Tokaidd. 


historic  capital,  -wns  naturally  regarded 
as  the  startinsy-point.  From  the  17tli 
<!entury  onwards,  tlie  Tokrtido  was  tra- 
versed twice  yearly  by  Daimj-Ss  coming  with 
their  gorgeous  retinues  to  pay  their  respects 
to  the  Shogun  at  Yedo ;  and  all  the  chief 
towns,  here  as  on  the  other  great  hiahwnys 
of  the  Empire,  were  provided  with  honjin — 
thut  is,  specially  line  tea-houses— for  their 
lordships  to  sleep  at.  The  greater  portion 
of  the  l)eautiful  avenue  of  pine-trees  with 
which  the  road  was  lined  still  exi^^ts,  and 
can  bd  seen  occasionally  from  the  windows 
of  the  railway  carriage.  The  road  itself  is 
now  comparatively  deserted.  "  But  what  a 
scene  it  used  to  present !  How  crowded  with 
pedestrians ;  withnorimons  (the  palanquins 
of  the  upper  crust),  and  attendants;  with 
ciinffoes  (the  modest  bamboo  conveyance 
of  the  humble  classes) ;  with  pack-hors-s, 
conveying  merchandise  of  all  kinds  to  and 
from  the  capital  or  to  the  busy  towns  and 
-villages  along  the  route  ;  with  the  trains  of 
dairayos  or  of  lesser  gentry  entitled  to 
travel  with  aretinue ;  and  with  the  coraraon- 
iilty,  men,  women  and  children,  on  foot, 
all  with  their  dresses  turned  up  for  facility 
Of  movement,  and  for  the  most  part  taking 
the  journey  pretty  easily  ;  frequently  stop- 
ping at  the  numberless  tea-housea  or  rent- 
ing sheds  by  the  way,  and  refreshing  t\  em- 
«elves  with  the  simple  little  cup  of  weak 
green  tea,  and  a  cheeiy  chat  with  whom- 
i<oever  might  stop  like  themselves  to  rest. 
It  used  te  seem  tliat  distance  was  no 
consideration  with  them.  They  could  po 
<m  all  day,  and  day  after  day,  if  only  they 
were  allowed  (which  they  generally  were) 
to  take  their  own  time  and  pace.  Tlie 
value  of  time   never  entered    into    their 

thoughts 

The  numerous  trains  of  armed  men 
passing  in  both  directions  were  the 
most  striking  feature  of  the  scene.  Never 
could  one  go  out  of  one's  house  in  any 
direction,  but  these  two-sworded  men  were 
met  with  ;  but  on  the  Toknido,  and  in  the 
btreets  of  Yedo,  they  appeared  to  be  more 
numerous  than  the  common  people;  and 
it  must  be  undet  stood  that  at  this  time  of 
which  I  am  speakmg,  the  crowds  on  por- 
tions of  the  road  and  in  all  the  principal 
thoroughfares  of  the  capital,  were  as  great 
as  in  the  most  crowded  thoroughfares  of 
T^>ndon.  It  took  one  forcibly  back  to  the 
feudal  times  in  Europe,  when  no  noble  or 
lauded  proprietor  thought  of  going  abroad 
unattended  by  his  armed  dependants. 
Added  to  this,  there  was  a  certain  air  of 
mntiquity  that  imparted  its  charm  to  the 
scene.  The  old  Dutch  writers  described 
the  road  long  ago,  and  it  was  even  in  tlieir 
-day,  precisely  as  it  was  in  ours.  A  good, 
well  macadamised,  causeway,  (except  that 
the  hard  stratum  was  of  pebbles,  not  of 
broken  stones^,  passing  thi-ough  numerous 
populous  villages,  only  divided  from  each 
*  >ther  by  short  intervals,  where  fine  old  tre^s 
on  both  sides  of  the  road  were  the  sole  divi- 
sion between  the  road  and  the  paddy  fields. 


The  etiquette  of  the  road  was  well  »n&. 
rigidly  defined.  "When  the  trains  of  two 
princes  met,  it  was  incumbent  on  the  lesser 
of  them — (measured  by  his  income  as  re- 
cognised by  the  Government,  and  published, 
in  the  official  list),  to  dismount  from  his 
norimon,  if  he  happened  to  be  riding  in  one* 
and  draw  with  his  followers  to  the  side  of 
the  road  whilst  the  otlier  passed.  When- 
ever it  was  possible,  therefore,  such  meet- 
ings were  avoided."  t 

The  railway  was  begun  in. 
1872  and  finished  in  1889.  Tra- 
vellers with  time  on  hand  are  ad- 
vised to  break  the  journey  at  Kdzu, 
in  order  to  vi«it  Miyanoshita  and. 
Hakone ;  at  OJcitsu,  in  order  to  visit 
Kuno-zan  on  the  way  between  that 
station  and  Shizuoka ;  at  ShizuoJca 
itself,  and  at  Nagoya.  Of  these 
places,  three,  viz.  Miyanoshita, 
Shizuoka,  and  Nagoya,  have  hotels 
in  foreign  style.  Those  who  are 
hurried  may  console  themselves 
for  missing  these  interesting  places 
by  the  knowledge  that  the  scenery 
through  which  they  are  to  pass 
has  many  charms,  including  superb 
views  of  Fuji  from  both  the  land 
and  the  sea  side.  The  least  in- 
teresting portion  of  the  line  is 
that  between  Shizuoka  and  Nagoya, 
a  six  hours'  run  which  may  with- 
out disadvantage  be  performed 
after  dark. 

The  first  hour  of  the  journey — 
that  between  Tokj'^o  and  Yokohama 
— having  been  already  described 
in  Eoute  3,  calls  for  no  further 
remark.  The  train  runs  into  Yoko- 
hama station  to  pick  up  passengers 
for  the  West,  and  runs  out  again 
for  a  few  minutes  over  the  same 
ground,  but  soon  diverges  to  the  1. 

Fiijisnwa  {Inns  Inage-ya  and 
Wakamatsu-ya  at  station)  is  famed 
for  its  Buddhist  temple  of  Tugyo- 
dera^  in  the  miraculous  heaUng 
powers  of  whose  abbots  extraordi- 
nary faith  is  placed  by  the  lower 
orders  of  the  surrounding  coxuitry- 
side.  Unfortunately  a  fire  de- 
stroyed the  greater  portion  of 
the  buildings  in   December,  1880. 

t  This  description  is  quoted  from  Black's 
"  Young  Japan,"  Vol.  I.  p.  163,  et  aeq. 


Section  of  Railway  tiear  Fuji. 


259 


Should  the  intention  of  restoring 
tHem  to  their  original  splendour 
be  cari'ied  out,  they  will  well 
merit  a  visit.  The  site  lies  some 
8  ch6  from  the  railway  station. 
After  passing  Fujisawa,  the  Ha- 
kone  range,  behind  which  towers 
the  cone  of  Fuji,  begins  to  come  in 
sight  r.  Soon  afterwards  the  line 
crosses  the  broad  stony  bed  of  the 
River  Banyii,  which  rises  in  Lake 
Yamanaka  on  the  N.E.  flank  of 
Fuji. 

01  SO  is  a  favourite  bathing  resoi*t; 
see  p.  62.     At 

Kozii  (Inn,  Hayano),  the  line 
turns  inland  up  the  valley  of  the 
Sakawa-gawa,  in  order  to  avoid  the 
Hakone  mountains  which  effectu- 
ally bar  the  way  to  all  but  foot-pas- 
sengers. The  scenery  now  becomes  i 
mountainous,  with  to  the  1.  the  chief  , 
I)eaks  of  the  Hakone  range, — 
Putago-yama  (the  *Twin  Moun- 
tain,' so-called  from  its  double  ' 
rounded  summit),  Myojin-ga-take,  | 
Kammuri-ga-take,  and  Kintoki-zan 
(horn-shaped).  An  extra  engine 
is  put  on  at  Yiiiiinkitii  to  help 
the  train  up  to  Gotemba,  the  high- 
est point  on  the  line — 1,500  ft. 
above  sea  level.  Between  Ya- 
makita  and  OyniiiA  (not_to  be 
mistaken  for  the  mountain  Oyama, 
with  a  long  O),  the  scenery  is 
wildly  picturesque,  and  there  is  a 
rapid  succession  of  tunnels  and 
bridges,  testifying  to  the  engineer- 
ing difficulties  that  had  to  be  over- 
come.    At 

OotembA  (Inns,  Yoshijima-ya  at 
station,  and  Omiya  in  the  vill.  12  cho 
<listant),  the  passenger  finds  himself 
in  the  broad  and  fertile  plain  sur- 
rounding Fuji's  base,  a  plain  whose 
soil  indeed  has  been  formed  by 
the  volcanic  outpourings  of  the 
great  mountain  during  countless 
ages.  The  long-ridged  wooded 
mountain  immediately  to  the  1.  of 
Fuji  is  Ashitaka.  The  range  to 
the  spectator's  1.  from  the  carriage 
window  is  the  Hakone  range,  the 
lowest  point  of  which  visible  from 


here  is  the  Otome-toge  pass  lead- 
ing over  to  Miyanoshita. 
At  Sano, 

[The  waterfalls  (Sano  no  taJci)  12 
cho  from  this  station  by 
jinrikisha  make  a  charming 
picnic  resort,  there  being  a 
tea-house  with  arbours  scat- 
tered about.  The  water  form- 
ing the  falls  comes  from  Lake 
Hakone  via  the  tunnel  men- 
tioned on  p.  107.  Keigashima, 
17  cho  beyond  the  Sano  water- 
falls, is  another  picturesque 
spot,  remarkable  for  its  curious 
rocks  and  possessing  a  deserted 
shrine  suitable  for  a  picnic] 

where  one  still  has  Fuji  and 
Ashitaka  to  the  r.,  the  other 
mountains,  from  r.  to  1.,  are  Amagi- 
san  in  Izu,  Yahazu-yama  (a  small 
peak),  Higane-san  on  the  other  side 
of  which  lies  Atami,  the  Hakone 
range,  and  in  front,  isolated  as  if 
let  drop  independently  into  the 
plain,  Kanoki-yama.  The  railway 
turns  west,  and  rejoins  the  old 
Todaido  at 

Niimazil  (Inn,  Moto  -  doiya). 
There  is  much  marshy  ground  in 
this,  neighbourhood,  whence  pro- 
bably the  name  of  the  place  (numcL 
=*  marsh'). 

Siiziiknwa  (Inn,  Koshu-ya)  and 
Iwabliclii  (Inn,  Tani-ya). 

[Travellers  from  the  Kyoto  direc- 
tion intending  to  ascend  Fuji 
can  alight  at  either  of  these 
stations,  it_  being  3  ri  from 
either  to  Omiya.  One  goes 
from  Suzukawa  to  (3miya  by 
tram  in  1^  hr.,  passing  through 
the  town  of  JYoshiwara ;  from 
Iwabuchi  to  Omiya  by  jinriki- 
sha. Most  persons  prefer  the 
tram,  as  cheaper  and  more  ex- 
peditious. The  Wataya  inn 
at  Omjya  is  well-spoken  of. 
From  Omiya  it  is  a  2^  ri  walk, 
mostly  uphill,  to  Murayama, 
where  the  actual  ascent  of 
Fuji  commences;  see  p.  117. 
Iwabuchi  is  also  the  starting- 


260 


PiOiite  SS.'-The  Tdkaido. 


point  for  the  beautiful  water- 
'  falls  of  Kami-ide  on  the  W. 
side  ot  Fuji  (see  p_.  121),  5^  riy 
passing  through  Omiya.  Suzu- 
kawa  is  the  starting-point  for 
the  temples  of  MinoDu,  J3  W, 
and  for  Kofu,  24  ri,  see  p.  128.] 

It  is  about  Suzukawa  that  the 
nearest  and  most  perfect  view  of 
Fuji  is  obtained.  Nowhere  else 
does  the  *  p£»erless  mountain '  so 
absolutely  dominate  its  surround- 
ings. The  beauty  of  the  stretch  of 
shore  from  here  to  the  mouth  of 
the  Fujikawa,  called  Tago-no-ura, 
has  been  sung  by  a  hundred  Japa- 
laese  poets.  The  Fujikawa  is 
noted  for  its  rapids  (see  p.  135). 
From  here  toOkitsu  is  very  beauti- 
ful, the  space  between. the  sea  and 
a  range  of  liills  to  the  r.  becoming 
so  narrow  as  barely  to  leave  room 
for  the  line  to  skirt  the  shore. 

Okitsii  {Inns,  Minakuchi  ya,  Kai- 
sui-ro;  the  former  is  semi-foreign, 
tl^e  latter  has  arrangements  for 
sea-bathing)  has  a  lovely  view  of 
the  Bay  of  Suruga,  the  large  moun- 
tainous peninsula  of  Izu,  an(^  to 
the  r.  the  point  of  land  called 
Mio-no-Matmbai'u,  celebrated  both 
in  poetry  and  in  art.  It  is  covered 
with  pine-trees,  is  low  and  sandy, 
and  hence  more  pleasant  to  look 
at  than  to  walk  on.  Still  fur- 
ther to  the  r.  lie  the  Kuno-zan 
liills,  with  the  w^hite  little  sea-port 
town  of  Shimizu  nestling  at  their 
base. 

At  Mio-no-MatMi^Hi"  is  lidil  the  scene  of 
Hn-goiovin^  or  The  iJobe  (»f  Fe»itheiB, 
owe  of  the  prettiest  mul  iiuiKt  fnnoiful 
<)t  the  Jjipunese  L>iic  DrMiims  (A<i  no 
tttai).  A  lL-hei'iiii«ii  hiudiii^  on  this 
«truud  linds  a  i-obe  of  fextlierH  hnii^- 
ing  to  a  pine-tree.  hhiI  is  nbout  to  cany 
It  off  as  tieMMue  Imve,  i»heii  a  beMiiti- 
ful  fairy  suddenly  ai^pearw  Hiid  implores 
him  to  g-'ve  it  huv.k  to  her,  lor  th^itit  is  hers, 
MTkd  with«mt  it  she  cannot  fly  home  to  the 
Moon,;  where  s>ie  is  one  of  the  attendants 
on  the  thirty  monarchs  who  rule  Unit 
sphere.  At  first  the  flshern.Mn  retUMes  to 
grant  her  request.  Hh  only  does  so  when, 
After  many  tears  and  afron'ies  of  despair, 
ahe  promises  to  dance  for  him  o»e  of  the 
dances  known  only  to  the  immortals. 
Draped  in  her  featherj'  robe,  she  dances 


beneath  the  pine-trees  on  the  beach,  while- 
celestial  musiu  and  an  uneailhly  frHgrance- 
1111  the  air.  At  last  her  wingx  are  &iUght 
by  the  breeze,  and  she  soars  heavenward,, 
past  Mount  Ashitaka,  pii^t  Fuji,  tilL 
she  is  l(»st  to  view.  '1  here  is  still  a  sniait 
shrine  on  Mio-uo-Matsubaru  dedicated  tO' 
this  fairy. 

The  temple  of  Seih  nji  or  Kiyomi'- 
dera  at  Okitsu,  belonging  to  the 
Zen  sect  of  Buddhists,  merits  a 
visit,  partly  for  the  sake  of  the 
view,  partly  for  the  temple  itself 
and  the  temple  grounds,  which  even 
the  railway,  though  it  cuts  through 
them,  has  not  entirely  Spoilt.  The 
very  plain  altar  in  the  hondo — jv 
large  hall  paved  with  tiles — con- 
tains the  funeral  tablets  of  all  the 
Shoguns  of  the  Tokugawa  dynasty. 
In  a  side  temple  are  forty  brilliantly 
coloured  figures,  three-fourths  life- 
size,  of  Rakan — old,  but  restored  in 
1881.  These  were  formerly  kept- 
in  a  tea-house  in  the  town, 
w^hich,  becoming  a  favourite  re- 
sort, In-ought  in  a  considerable 
income  to  the  p|riest&.  This,  how- 
ever, moved  tnc  towns-people  to 
jealousy  and  dissatisfaction,  for 
which  reason  the  images  were 
moved  to  their  pi'esent  site  whein* 
money  can  no  longer  be  made  out 
of  them.  In  the  gi-ounds  are  30O 
(formerly  500)  stone  imayes  of 
Rakan.  The  creeping  phun- trees 
(gwaryii-bai)  in  front  of  the  temple 
are  said  to  have  been  i>lante<^l  by 
leyasu's  own  hand.  Besides  the 
temple  proper,  a  suite  of  robms  is 
shown,  affording  an  example  of  the 
best  style  of  Japanese  domestic 
architecture.  Built  in  I860  for 
the  use  of  the  Shogun  lemochi, 
they  have  of  late  been  twice  oc- 
cupied by  His  Imperial  Highness, 
the  Crown  Prince. 

[Those  who  have  an  extra  day 
to  spare  are  strongly  recom- 
mended to  leave  the  train  at 
Okitsu,  sleep  there,  and  go  on 
by  jinrikisha  to  Kiilid-zaii,  re- 
joining the  train  at  Shizuoka 
late  the  next  afternoon.  This 
excursion,  which  occupies  from 


Kuno'Zan. 


261 


7  to  8  hrs.,  is  a  real  multum 
in  parvo, — splendid  views,  su- 
perb temples,  nearer  ac- 
quaintance with  Japanese  town 
and  country  life  off  the  beaten 
track. — ^The  plan  is  to  take 
a  jinrikisha  for  the  day  with  two 
men,  and  begin  by  visiting  Sei- 
kenji,  described  above ;  tlience 
through  Bjm(7nn,Kyo-ya),one 
of  those  smaller  Tokaido  towns 
which  the  railway  has  para- 
lysed, and  Shimizu,  a  neat 
bustling  ^sea-port  town ;  and 
then  strike  inland  to  Tess/iwji, 
a  ruined  temple  on  a  little  hill 
called  Fud<u*aku-san,  4  cho  in 
height.  Yamaoka  Tetsutaro, 
writing-master  to  the  present 
Hikado,  collected  funds  for  the 
restoration  of  this  place  ;  but 
the  money  was  squandered 
after  his  death,  and  the  temnle 
is  nothing,  but  the  view  sim- 
ply magnificent,  reminding  one 
of  a  Claude  Lorraine.  At 
the  beholder's  feet  stretches  a 
green  carpet  of  rice-fields,  with 
the  town  of  Shimizu  and  the 
curious  square  enclosures  in 
the  adjacent  sea,  used  as  fish 
preserves  to  supply  the  tables 
of  the  inhabitants  in  stormy 
weather.  The  two  promon- 
tories to  the  1.  are  the  Satta- 
toge  and  the  point  near  Kam- 
bara,  beyond  which  come  Fuji, 
Ashitaka,  and  the  Hakone 
range.  The  large  peninsula 
of  Izu  extends  the  whole  way 
round  from  1.  to  r.,  like  a 
g^igantic  scythe  forming  the 
Gulf  of  Suruga,  while  much 
closer  and  smaller,  making  a 
bay  within  a  bay,  stretches  the 
pine-clad  promontory  of  Mio- 
no-Matsubara,  which  is  from 
here  seen  to  divide  at  the  tip 
into  three  points  like  claws. 
Close  to  Tesshuji  is  another 
temple  called  Byugeji,  noted 
in  the  vicinity  for  its  sotetau 
( Cycas  revoluta)  and  prickly 
pears — ^the  latter  a  great  rarity 


in  Japan ;  but  the  view,  though 
good,  is  not  comparable  to  that 
from  Tesshiiji. 

The  way  now  leads  back  to 
the  sea  and  along  the  sandy 
shore  to  the  hamlet  of  Nekoya 
{Inn,  Fukushima-ya)  at  the  foot 
of  Kuno-zan,  one  of  a  range  of 
hills  only  some  500  ft.  high,  but 
fortress-like  in  steepness.  Her© 
was  the  first  burial-place  of  the 
great  Shogun  leyasu,  and  the 
shrines  here  erected  in  his 
honour  were  the  originals  of 
-^V^hich  those  at  Nikko  are  but 
a  more  elaborate  development. 
Travellers  who  are  iinable  to 
go  to  Nikko,  can  therefore  ga- 
ther some  idea  of  what  the 
Nikko  temples  are  like  by  visit- 
in  cr  Kuno-zan.  According  to 
some,  Ieyasu*s  body  still  lies 
here,  only  a  single  hair  or  some 
other  minute  portion  having 
been  transported  to  Nikko.  The 
ascent  to  the  temples  is  by  a 
steep  zigzag  path  cut  in  the 
living  rock.  A  guide  must  be 
applied  for  at  the  shamusho,  or 

*  temple  office'  near  the  top,  on 
thel.  The  view  over  the  sea  from 
this  temple  office  is  glorious. 
The  headlands  seen  hence  are 
Tome-no-saki,  Kanaya,  and  O- 
mae-zaki.  The  temples,  though 

*  purified*  to  some  extent  by 
the  pro- Shinto  party  20  years 
ago,  retain  their  Buddhist 
ornamentation.  The  wooden 
effigy  of  a  sacred  horse  1.  is 
by  Hidari  Jingoro.  Up  a  flight 
of  steps  hence,  we  come  r.  to 
the  drum-tower,  and  1.  to  the 
side  of  the  five-storied  pagoda 
removed  by  the  *  purifiers  *  as 
savouring  too  much  of  Bud- 
dhism. Above  these  again  are 
r.,  the  Kagura  stage,  the  trea- 
sure-house or  '  godown/  and  a 
building  formerly  dedicated  to 
the  Buddhist  god  Yakushi,  and 
now  to  the  Shinto  god  Oyama- 
gui-no-Mikoto ;  while  1.  is  the 
building  where  the  sacred  offer* 


262 


EoiUe  38, — The  Tokaido, 


ings  are  prepared.  The  oratory 
proper  is  red  outside,  black 
and  gold  within.  Bound  it, 
inside,  are  hung  pictures  of  the 
Thirty-six  Poetical  Geniuses, 
and  there  is  an  elaborate  border- 
ing of  phoenixes  and  chrysan- 
themums. A  final  flight  of 
steps  behind  the  oratory  leads 
up  to  the  stone  tomb,  which 
is  an  octagonal  monolith.  The 
annual  festival  at  Kuno-zan  is 
lield  on  the  1 7th  April.  Services 
are  also  celebrated  on  the  I7th 
of  the  other  months.  The  tem- 
ple treasures  are  exposed  to 
view  in  October,  when  the  an- 
nual airing  {mushi-hoshi)  takes 
place.  On  leaving  Kuno-zan, 
the  road  first  follows  the  sea- 
shore and  then  turns  inland, 
reaching  Shizuoka  in  about 
1  hr.] 

Betweien  Okitsu  and 

Ejlri  {Inn,  Kyo-ya),  there  is  a 
view  of  Mio-no-Matsubara.  After 
leaving  Ejiri,  the  line  turns  inland 
to  avoid  the  Kuno-zan  hills. 

Shizuoka  (HoteU,    *Daito-kwan, 

foreign  style ;  Kiyo-kwan),  formerly 

called  Sumpu,  is  the  capital  of  the 

prefecture  of  the  same  name  and 

of  the    province  of     Suruga.      It 

is  a  clean,  airy,  flourishing  city, 

noted  for  its  manufactures  of  cheap 

lacquer  ware,  delicate  basket-work 

in  curious  and  beautiful  shai>es,  and 

fine  bamboo  plaiting  used  to  cover 

egg-shell  porcelain  cups  which  are 

brought  from  the  province  of  Mino. 

The  tea  produced  at  Ashikubo,  a 

vill.  2  ri  distant,  ranks  second  only 

to  that  of  Uji. 

HistoricHlly,  Shizuoka  is  celebrated 
chiefly  as  the  plaoe  where  leyasu  chose  to 
«pend  the  evening  of  hiR  life  in  learned 
leisure,  leaving  his  son,  Hidetada,  to  carry 
on  the  government  at  Yedo.  Here  for  the 
first  time  many  of  the  treasures  of  Japa- 
nese literature,  which  had  hitherto  existed 
onl^  in  manuscript,  were  put  into  print, 
ghizuoka  is  now  the  plaoe  of  retiit^ment  of 
the  ex-8h5gun  Keiki,  who  lives  there  in 
quiet  seclusion  as  a  private  gentleman. 

An  afternoon  is  enough  for 
the  sights  of  Shizuoka,  which  con- 


sist of  the  ruins  of  the  former 
castle,  and  of  two  fine  temples — 
Binzaiji  and  Sengen.  All  that 
remains  of  the  Castle  are  tlie 
decaying  walls  and  the  moats. 
Within  its  enclosure  stands  the 
Prefecture,  a  hideous  red  brick: 
building.  The  Coui-t-house  and. 
Normal  School  are  outside  the 
moat,  on  the  S.  side. 

The  Buddhist  temple  of  Rinzaiji 
lies  8  cho  away  from  the  city  to  the 
W.,  at  the  foot  of  a  range  of 
wooded  hills.  It  belongs  to  the 
Zen  sect,  and  is  noted  for  its 
connection  with  leyasu  and  for 
the  number  of  objects  of  art  which 
it  contains.  The  little  room  of 
only  4fj  mats  (yo-jo-han),  where  le- 
yasu learnt  how  to  write,  is  shown,  as 
are  several  scrolls,  screens,  pieces  of 
lacquer  and  porcelain,  etc.,  pre- 
sented by  him  to  the  temple  in  his 
old  age.  There  is  also  a  thread- 
bare but  still  beautiful  piece  of 
embroidery  presented  by  the  Mikado 
Go-Nara  (A.D.  1527-1557),  and  a 
number  of  kakemono  by  Kano  Masa- 
nobu.  Chin  Nampin,  and  other  old 
masters.  In  the  Hondo  is  a  painted 
statue  of  Imagawa  Yoshimoto, 
younger  brother  to  Ujiteru,  founder 
of  the  temple.  Another  painted 
statue  represents  the  2nd  abbot. 
The  honzon  is  Amida,  a  black  image 
with  a  gold  background.  In.  a 
side  chapel  is  preserved  the  wooden 
image  of  Marishi-ten,  which  le- 
yasu-:-who  for  all  his  political  and 
military  genius,  was  not  devoid  of 
the  superstitions  of  his  time — ^used 
constantly  to  carry  about  with  him 
as  a  charm.  The  visitor  will  also 
be  shown  a  small  pagoda-shaped 
gilt  revolving  book-case  containin|[^ 
a  complete  set  of  the  edition  of 
the  Buddhist  scriptures,  printed 
for  the  first  time  with  movable 
types  in  1888.  The  Ist  and  2nd 
October  are  the  chief  festival  days 
at  Binzaiji.   / 

The  Temple  of  Sengen,  which 
stands  at  the  N.  limit  of  the  town, 
was  built  under  the  snperintendence 


Shizxvoha, 


263 


of  Okubo  Hikozaemon,  a  personage 
famous  in  Japanese  history  as  the 
minister  and  confidant  of  the  Sho- 
gun  leniitsu.   Though  chiefly  dedi- 
cated to  the  worship  of  Ko-no-hana- 
jsaku-ya-hime,    alias     Sengen,    the 
heantif ul  Shinto  goddess  of  Mount 
Fuji,  it  is  constructed  and  decorated 
in  the  most  ornate  Buddhist  style. 
Specially  noteworthy  are  the  wood- 
^^.rvings.     The    grounds   are   now 
used  as  a  public  j^ark.     Entering 
by  two  handsomely  carved  wooden 
4^ates,  the  visitor  finds  himself  in  a 
large  quadrangle,  in  the  centre  of 
which  is  a  stage  formerly  used  for 
the  performance  of  kagura  dances 
by  young  girls.    The  interior  of  the 
oratory    proper    ( go    haiden  no   o- 
Uronm)  is  a  hall  63  ft.  by  33  ft. 
with   large   solid  pillars  of   keyaki 
lacquered  red,  two*  of  which  form 
at  the  same  time  the  corner  pillai's 
of    the  upper    storey.      The    two 
"Central  compartments  of  the  ceiling 
are    painted    with     dragons,    one 
billed  the  Shihd  no  Ryo,  or  *  Dragon  of 
the   Four  Quarters,'  because  what- 
ever quarter  ,of    the   compass  he 
be  viewed  from  he  seems  to  glare 
down  directly  at  the  spectator ;  the 
other,  Happo  no  Ryo,  or  *  Dragon  of 
the  Eight  Quarters/  because  his 
glance  is  directed  to  every  point  of 
the  circle.     The  former  of  these 'is 
by    Yusen   Hogan,   the   latter    by 
Kano  Motonobu.    Eight  other  com- 
paitments     contain     pictures     of 
angels  playing  on  musical  instru- 
ments,  also    by   painters    of    the 
Kano  school.      Two  broad  flights 
of  steps  behind  the  oratory  lead 
up  to  a  building   containing  two 
•chapels,  one  dedicated  to  Sengen, 
the     other     to      Onamuji.      The 
two    chapels    are     connected    by 
a  room  in  which  a  nightly  watch 
was  formerly  kept  by  retainers  of 
the  Tokugawa  family.      Specially 
noticeable  are  the  carvings  on  the 
gates  leading  to  these  twin  cha- 
pels.   One  set  represents  a  lioness 
with  her   cub,    and  on   a  second 
panel  her  royal  mate,  both    sur- 


rounded by  peonies,  the  king  of 
flowers,  as  the  lion  is  the  king  of 
beasts.  Another  set  represents 
hawks  with  pine-trees.  Eound  the 
chapel  itself  are  carvings  of  the 
pine-tree,  bamboo,  and  plum-blos- 
som by  Hidari  Jingoro.  The  crest 
of  a  fan  of  feathers  is  that  of  the 
goblin  who  was  god  of  Mount 
Oyama  and  father  of  the  goddess 
of  Fuji. 

Near  the  main  quadrangle  is  a 
smaller  building  called  the  Sosha, 
formerly  dedicated  to  Marishi- 
ten  and  now  to  the  Shinto  god 
Yachi-hoko-no-kami.  It  is  the 
newest  of  all  the  buildings,  and 
the  decorations  are  therefore 
in  a  better  state  of  preserva- 
tion. In  the  curved  roof  of  the 
porch  a  phoenix  carved  out  of  a 
single  block  of  wood  is  very  fine ; 
and  all  round,  above  the  architrave, 
runs  a  series  of  delicate  little  groups 
representing  the  Twenty-four  Para^ 
,gons  of  Filial  Piety. 

The  stone  lanterns  in  the  grounds 
were  presented  by  various  Daimyos 
and  Hatamotos.—fBeyond  the  Mari- 
shi-ten  temple,  a  broad  flight  of 
105  stone  steps  leads  up  to  the 
Oku-no-in,  or  innermost  shrine,  the 
chief  thing  to  be  seen  whence-is  s 
good  view  of  the  town. 

The  best  excursion  from  Shi- 
zuoka  is  that  by  jihrikisha  to 
Kuno-zan  (3  ri) ;  see  pp.  260-2. 

On  leaving  Shizuoka,  we  enter 
on  the  least  interesting  portion  of 
the  Tokaido  route,  there  being  little 
worth  describing  the  whole  way  on 
to  Nagoya,  a  distance  of  115  mUes. 
The  line  for  the  most  part  ceases 
to  skirt  the  sea,  and  runs  over  a 
flat  country  with  low  hills  on  one 
or  both  sides,  or  else  among  rice 
fields  which  seem  intenninable,  es- 
pecially after  entering  the  province 
of  Owari.  Spurs  of  the  central 
range  forming  the  backbone  of  the 
country  are  indeed  often  seen  far 
away  to  the  r.  At  other  times  the 
way  lies  through  cuttings,  or  be- 


264 


Bouts  38, — The  Tokaidu. 


tween  clumps  of  bamboos  and  other 
small  trees  that  shut  out  all  distant 
view.  The  chief  points  of  this  115 
m.  run  are  as  follows  : — Just  outside 
SMzuoka  we  cross  the  Abekawa 
close  to  its  mouth,  and  obtain  ai)ret- 
ty  glimpse  of  the  sea  with  the  small 
promontory  of  Kuno-zan  and  the 
large  promontory  ot  I»u,  before  pass- 
ing through  two  long  tunnels.  The 
Oigawa  is  crossed  before  reaching 
Kanayn.  Like  all  the  rivers  on 
this  coast,  it  has  a  bed  out  of  pro- 
portion to  the  small  volume  of 
water  that  generally  flows  down  it, 
the  bed  being  nearly  a  mile  broad, 
while  the  actual  stream  is  not 
more  than  some  50  yds.  except  in 
:flood-time. 

_In  pre-railway  days,  the  passage  of  the 
Oigawa  was  one  of  the  most  exciting 
portions  of  the  journey  along-  the  Tokaido. 
No  ferrj'-hoats  could  be  used  on  account  of 
the  swiftness  of  the  current,  and  travellers 
"were  carried  across  on  small  hand-phit- 
^orms  called  rendni.  The  naked  coolies 
who  bore  these  aloft  always  chose  the 
deepest  parts  of  the  stream,  in  order  to 
impress  their  fares  with  a  sense  of  the  peril 
of  the  undertaking,  and  thus  obtain  the 
largest  possible  pourholre. 

Kakegawa  is  not  remarkable 
except  for  being  the  station  where 
those  must  alight  who  desire  to 
■visit  the  Temple  of  Akiha,  some  12 
ri  inland,  of  which  the  first  6  ri  as 
far  as  the  vill.  of  Mikura  are  prac- 
ticable for  jinrikishas.  The  visi- 
tor may  conveniently  sleep  at 
Sakashita,  some  4^  ri  further  on. 
Sit  the  base  of  the  mountain  on 
which  the  temple  stands.  The 
ascent,  locally  computed  at  50  chb, 
is  probably  less.  The  last  part  of 
it  commands  an  extensive  and 
beautiful  view,  including  the  wide 
plain  of  T<3t6mi  with  the  sea  be- 
yond, towards  which  the  broad 
white  bed  of  the  river  Tenryu  is 
seen  winding  its  way. 

The  temple  of  AViha  enjoys  a  great 
reputation  for  sanctity,  and  is  visited 
annually  by  crowds  of  pilgrims.  Unfortu- 
nately for  the  tourist  of  artistic  and  anti- 
quarian tastes,  all  the  beautiful  Buddhist 
buildings  in  which  Kwannon  and  other 
deities  had  for  centuries  been  invoked,  were 
destroyed  by  fire  on  the  occasion  of  the 


great  yearly  festival  in  1875,  and  the- 
present  temple  was  afterwards  erected  i» 
the  bare,  uninteresting  style  of  *  Pui-e- 
Shinto.'  It  has  been  dedicated  to  Kagu— 
tsuchi-no-Mikoto,  who  is  regarded  by  soiiie- 
as  the  God  of  Fire,  but  is  more  correctly 
explained  as  the  Oocl  of  Summer  Heat. 

Before  reaching  Hamamatsu  the- 
train  crosses  the  Tenryii-gawa, 
whose  celebrated  rapids  form  the 
subject  of  Route  *35.  The  Tenryii 
is  the  first  of  the  three  great  rivers 
from  which  the  province  of  Mi- 
kawa,  which  the  line  here  traverses, 
takes  its  name,  the  other  two 
being  theOgawa  (also  called  Oya- 
gawa  or  Ohira-gawa)  on  this  side 
of  the  station  of  Okazaki,  and  the^ 
Yahagi-gawa  just  beynd  the  same 
station. 

._  Haniamatsil  (  Inns,  *  Hana-ya,, 
Ogome-ya)  is  the  only  place  be- 
tween Shizuok^  and  Nagoj'a  where 
the  journey  can  comfortably 
be  broken.  The  town,  which  is 
clean  and  bvistling,  derives  a 
peculiar  appearance  from  the  use 
of  long  projecting  eaves  which 
cause  the  houses  to  look  as  if  about 
to  tumble  forward  into  the  street. 
A  few  moments  may  be  devoted  to 
inspecting  the  temples  of  Gosha 
Myojin-  and  8uwa  Myojin,  which 
even  in  their  present  abandonment 
and  decay  sliow  plainly  to  the  dis- 
cerning eye  of  the  artist  that  they 
were  once  among  the  most  elaboi*ata 
specimens  of  decorative  art  in  Japan. 
A  whole  day  could  well  be  spent  in 
sailing  about  the  Lagoon  (Hamana 
no  Mizu-umi)  just  beyond  Hama- 
matsu, of  whose  beauties  the  rail-^ 
way  affords  only  a  passing  glimpse, 
and  in  watching  the  fishermen's 
curious  device  whereby  the  tinkling 
of  a  bell  indicates  the  presence  of 
fish  in  their  nets.  One  might  lunch 
at  the  vill.  of  Shinjo  on  the  fui-ther 
shore.  The  railway  crosses  the 
mouth  of  the  lagoon  on  a  long 
series  of  dykes  and  bridges,  whence 
the  roar  of  the  breakers  of  the 
Pacific  can  be  distinctly  heard. 

Though  called  a  lake  in  Japanese,  this 
lagoon  has  now  a  narrow  entrance  aboa4 


Nagoya, 


265 


<00  yds.  across,  fovmed  in  the  year  149fl, 
"when  an  earthquake  broke  down  *lie  sand- 
spit  that  had  previously  separated  the 
fresh  water  from  the  sea.  The  province  of 
Totoiui  derives  its  name  from  this  lake, 
■which  was  Ciilled  Tdtomi.  a  corruption  of 
7'0-tsu-awa'umi,  *  the  distant  f  onming  sea,' 
in  contradistinction  to  Lake  Biwa,  named 
<'hika-tifu-awa-uvn^  *the  near  foaming  sea,' 
which  gave  its  name  to  the  province  of 
Omi. 

Between  Wasliizn  and  Toyolia- 

slli  a  fine  bronze  image  of  Kvvan- 
non,  10  ft.  high  and  dating  from  the 
year  1765,  is  seen  perched  r.  on  a 
pinnacle  of  rock.  Between' (joyii, 
where  the  line  again  touches  the 
shore,  and  Kaiiingori  there  is  a 
pretty  view  of  the  sea,  of  the  islets 
in  the  Bay  of  Toyohashi,  and  of 
the  mountains  of  the  provinces  of 
Shima,  Ise,  arid  Iga  beyond.  An 
•endless  succession  of  rice-fields 
leads  to 

Nagoya  {Inns,  Shinachu,  also 
called  H6tel  du  Progr^s,  foreign  : 
*Shiikin-ro). 

This   flourishing    commercial    city,    the 
largest   on   the    Tokaido,  capital    of   the 
Province  of  Owari  and  of  the  prefecture 
of  Aichi,  was  formerly  the   seat   of  the 
Princes  of  Owari,  whose  family  was  closely 
allied  to  tliat  of  the  Tokuguwa  Bhoguns, 
the  founder  of  the  house  of  Owari  havmg 
been  a  son  of  leyusu.    Their  fief  was  rated 
at  550,000  hokn  of  rice,  and  the  Owari's 
were  one  of  the  '  Tliree  Aueust  Families  * 
[Go  San-ke)^    entitled    to    furnish    a   suc- 
cessor to  the  Shogun's  tlirone  in  default 
of     an     heir.      Their    castle,    which    is 
still  one  of  the  wonders  of  Japan,    was 
■erected  in  161f»by  twenty  great  feudal  lords, 
to  serve  as  the  residence  of  leyasn's  son. 
la  the  early  years  of  the  present  r/fgime  it 
■ffaa  handed  over  to  the  Alilitary  Depart- 
ment; and  the  beautiful  decorations  of  the 
Prince's  dwelling  apartments  suffered,  as 
<lid  so  much  else  in  Japan,  from  the  almost 
incredible  vandalii<iii  and  vulgar  stupidity  of 
that  period, — common  soldiers,  or  ofli<'er8 
as  ignorant  as  the.v,  being  allowed  to  deface 
the  priceless  wall-paintings  of  a  Tan-yti,  a 
Motonobu,  and  a  Mat'ihei.    This  desecra- 
tion is  now  happily  put  an  end  to,  though 
much  irreparable  damage    has  been  done. 
The  Castle  is  indeed  still  the  head-quar- 
ters of  the  Nagoya  Garrison;  but  the  bar- 
racks now  only  occupy  the  outer  enceinte, 
the    actual    cit^idel    and  the    apartments 
being  kept  as  national   monuments    and 
Rhow -places.     The   two    golden   dplpliins 
{kin  «»»  8fiac?ii-koko),  which  can    be   seen 
(flittering  all  over  the  city  from  the  top  of 
the    flve-storeyed    donjon    [tenshu)^    were 
made  in  1610  at  the  cost  of  the  celebrated 
general,  Kato  Kiyomasa,  who  also  built 


the  keep.  One  of  thera  was  sent  to  the 
Vienna  Exhibition  of  lb73,  and  on  its  way 
back  was  wrecked  in  the  Messageries 
Maritimes  Steamer  *Nil.'  Having  been 
recovered  with  great  difficulty,  it  was 
finally  restored  to  its  original  position, 
much  to  the  satisfaction  of  the  citizens. 
Tlie  golden  dolphins  mea«ure  87  ft-  in 
height,  and  are  valued  at  $180,000. 

Nagoya  is  noted  for  its  manufac- 
ture of  porcelain,  cloisonne,  and 
fans.     The  principal  dealers  are  : 

Porcelain. — Matsumura,  Hirako- 
ya,  Takito. 

Cloiso7in4.  —  Morimoto,  Honda, 
Takcuchi. 

Fans, — Daikoku-ya. 

Silk-mcrcers. — Ito,  Daimaru. 

There  are  many  lesser  but  good 
shops  for  all  the  above  articles ; 
also  several  bazaars  (ktva7ik6ba)  for 
articles  of  general  utility.  Five  or 
six  large  cotton-mills  have  been 
started  of  late  years,  and  the  em- 
broidering of  handkerchiefs  has 
taken  a  considerable  place  among 
the  local  industries. 

Theatre. — Suehiro-za. 

The  Museum  contains  a  coUectioa 
of  the  various  manufactures  of  the 
prefecture. 

It  is  worth  stopping  a  day  at 
Nagoya  for  the  sake  of  the  Castle, 
which  cannot  be  *  done '  merely 
between  trains,  as  the  traveller's 
passport  and  visiting  card  must  be 
sent  through  the  hotel  to  the  Pre- 
fectural  Office,  and  several  hours 
may  elapse  before  the  necessary 
permit  is  received.  Meantime  one 
may  visit  Nagoya' s  second  greatest 
sight  —  the  Higashi  Hongwanji 
Temple — the  Museum,and  the  minor 
temples  described  below.  The 
evening  may  be  agreeably  whiled 
away  by  going  the  round  of  the 
bazaars,  and  by  visiting  the  enclosure 
of  Shimpukuji  (commonly  known 
as  Osu  Kwannon),  where  devout  re- 
ligious exercises  and  penny  peep- 
shows  may  be  seen  in  amusing 
proximity. 

The  Castle  (O  Shiro). — The  space 
between  the  inner  and  outer  inoats, 
now  containing  extensive  barracks 
and  parade-grounds,  was  formerly 


266 


Eotite  38, — The  Tokaido, 


occupied  by  quarters  for  the 
Prince's  samurai  or  retainers,*  of- 
fices civil  and  military,  etc.  Pass- 
ing into  the  inner  enclosure  over 
a  moat  now  dry  and  used  to 
keep  tame  deer  in,  the  traveller 
is  first  shown  through  the  Apart- 
ments,— a  beautiful  wreck,  for  mats 
and  furniture  are  gone  and  the 
walls  are  considerably  defaced,  but 
very  fine  nevertheless.  The  slidiug 
screens  (fusntna)  between  the 
rooms,  the  alcoves  (tokononia),  and 
the  wooden  doors  between  the  dif- 
ferent sets  of  Apartments  are  all 
decorated  with  paintings  of  flowers, 
birds,  etc.,  chiefly  by  artists  of  the 
Kano  school,  such  as  Eishin,  Moto- 
nobu,  and  Tan-yu.  One  room  has 
cherrj'-blossoms  and  pheasants  by 
Tosa-no-Mitsuoki.  Another  —  the 
most  attractive  of  all — has  multi- 
tudinous scenes  of  popular  life 
by  Ukiyo  Matahei.  One  speciallj' 
gorgeous  apartment,  decorated  by 
Tan-yu  with  ideal  Chinese  scenery, 
"was  reserved  for  the  use  of  the  Sho- 
gun  when  he  came  to  visit  the 
Prince  his  kinsman.  Observe  the 
difierence  of  height  between  the 
inner  and  outer  portion  of  this 
zoom, — the  former  (jodan)  being  for 
the  Shogun  himself,  the  latter 
(gedan)  for  those  inferior  persons 
who  were  graciously  admitted  to  an 
audience.  The  raimna  (ventilating 
panels)  of  this  room  have  exquisitely 
faithful  carvings  of  a  crane  and  tor- 
toise and  of  a -cock  perched  on  a 
drum,  by  Hidari  Jingoro,  who  also 
carved  the  flowers  and  birds  in 
certain  other  rooms.  Leaving  these 
apartments,  one  comes  to  a  much 
humbler  suite  brought  from  Nobu- 
naga's  castle  at  Kiyosu,  and  is  then 
led  into  the  donjon  or  keep,  a 
gloomy  five -storied  building,  all  of 
stone  without,  but  furnished  with 
wooden  staircases  within.  The  well 
at  the  bottom,  called  Ogoii-siiif  or 
*the  Golden  Water,'  was  dug  by 
Kato  Kiyomasa.  The  fifth  storey 
commands  an  extensive  view — the 
town  of  course,  the  sea,  the  im- 
juense  plain  of  Owari  and  Mino  laid 


out  in  rice-fields,  and,  limiting  the- 
horizon,  the  mountains  of  Ise,  Iga^ 
Omi,  Echizen,  Hida,  ShinshQ,  and 
Tutomi. 

No  fee  is  accepted  by  the  custo- 
dian of  the  Castle. 

Higashi  Hongwaiiji. 

Tftis  wonderful  Buddhist  temple,  whose- 
exterior    and    interiur   are   both    equally 
^rand,  dates  in  it8  actual  shape  froia  the- 
beginning    of    the   present   century.      Iii 
mediaeval  times  a  castle  occupied  its  sit^^ 
whence    the    castle-like   walls    that    still 
surronnd  the  enclosure.    Oh  the  occasiotk 
of  the  combined  military  and  naval  manoErn— 
vres  at  Xagoya  in    1890,  the  apartments 
were  occupied  by  H.  M.  the  Mikado. 

The  two  storied  gatehouse,  a- 
magnificent  structure  in  wood,  has- 
three  portals,  decorated  with  floral 
arabesques  in  relief  on  the  lintel 
and  posts,  and  the  gates  have 
scrolls  and  open-work  diapers,  with 
solid  bronze  plates  binding  the 
framework  together,  the  whole  in 
excellent  taste  and  style.  On  the 
further  side  of  a  spacious  court 
rises  the  loft}'  main  building,  which 
looks,  two-storied,  an  effect  pro- 
duced by  the  exterior  colonnade 
having  a  roof  lower  than  that  of 
tlie  main  structure.  The  interior 
measures  120  ft.  in  length  by  108- 
ft.  in  depth,  and  is  divided  longi- 
tudinally into  three  parts,  that  in 
front  being  for  the  use  of  ordinary 
worshippers,  the  centre  for  the  con- 
gregation on  special  occasions,  and 
the  innermost  being  the  naijin,  or 
chancel.  This  latter  is  divided  into- 
three  compartments,  the  central  one 
being  occupied  by  the  sJutmi-daii^ 
a  platform  on  which  stands  a  hand- 
some gilt  shrine  containing  an 
image  of  Amida  about  4  ft.  high. 
Both  the  shmni-dan  and  the  table 
in  front  are  enriched  with  small 
painted  carvings,  producing  a  glori- 
ous effect.  L.  of  the  chief  slirine 
is  a  smaller  one,  containing  a  xx)r- 
trait  of  the  founder  of  the  sect,  taken 
from  the  effigy  in  the  metropolitan 
temple  at  Kyoto.  In  the  ramvia 
along  the  front  of  the  tiaijiyi  are  gilt 
open-work  carvings  of  angels,  with 
gilt  carv'ings  of  the    peacock    and 


Nagoya. 


267 


phcenix  in  the  kaeru^mata   above. 
The  heavy  beams  of  the  ceiling  are 
supported  by  excellent  carvings  of 
lotus-flowers  and  leaves.     In  some 
of  the  kaeni-mata  over  these  beams 
are     spirited    carvings  of     conven- 
tional   lions.     '  The    ceiling    itself 
is    unpainted,     and    divided    into 
coffers  about     3    ft.   square.     The 
compartments    r.    and    1.    of    the 
altar  have  gilt   coppered  ceilings. 
In  the  kacrurinata  of  the  external 
<x>lounade  are  well-conceived  groups 
of  supernatural  beings — Gama  Sen- 
nin  with  his  frog,  Kinko  riding  on 
the  carp,  Koan  on  the  tailed  tortoise, 
O-Shiko  riding  on  his  crane,  Ka- 
Shinjin  administering  medicine  to 
the  dragon,  the  umbrella  miraculous- 
ly  flying  back  to  Shoiohi  through 
the  air,  and  two  carrying  baskets  of 
fish.     The  series  is  continued  round 
the  sides  by  the  crane,  the  lion,  and 
the    flying    dragon.     As    usual    in 
Hongwanji  temples,  there  is  another 
building  called  the  jiki-do,  connected 
with  the  main  building  by  a  gal- 
lery resembling  a  bridge.    Though 
much  less  elaborate  than  the  main 
altar,  the  altar  of  the  jiki-do  is  yet 
a  fine  blaze  of  gold.    K.  and  1.  of 
the  central  image  of   Amida,   are 
some  charming  gold  sliding  screens 
representing  mountain  scenery.  The 
apartments  of  the  temple  contain 
several  kakemonos  and  other  works 
of  art,  which  are,  however,  generally 
stowed    away    in    a    godown.      In 
front  of  the  main  gate  is  an  avenue 
of    drooping   cherry-trees   {shidare- 
zakura),  which  are  very  pretty  in 
April. 

The  remaining  temples  of  Nagoya 
are  much  inferior.  The  following 
may  be  mentioned : — 

Eikokuji  (close  to  the  Higashi 
Hongwanji),  in  the  courtyard  of 
which  is  a  stone  with  the  imprint  of 
Buddha's  feet.  They  seem  to  have 
been  in  proportion  to  his  stature, 
which  legend  Axes  at  16  ft.  On  the 
soles  are  representations  of  the  wheel 
of  the  law,  fishes,  etc. 

Nishi  Hongwanjiy  not  to  be  com- 
pared with  the  Higashi  Hongwanji 


for  size  and  beauty.  In  the  kaeni- 
matu  above  the  altar  are  groups 
of  the  Four-and-Twenty  Paragons 
of  Filial  Piety. 

Nanatmi'dcra^  the  interior  walls 
of  which  are  gilt  and  decorated  with 
good  paintings  of  angels.  The  large- 
bronze  image  on  the  verandah  re- 
presents either  Dainichi  or  Amida 
— which  of  the  two  is  not  quite 
certain. 

Osti,  Kiuannmi  (properly  Shim- 
pukuji),  already  alluded  to  as  a 
popular  resort.  In  front  of  the 
altar  screen  are  hung,  for  the  use 
of  worshippers,  copies  of  a  Buddhist 
scripture — the  26th  chapter  of  the 
Myoho  BeiigQ  Kyd — which  recites 
the  praises  of  the  Goddess  Kwannon. 
This  temple  possesses  the  famous 
manuscript  of  the  Kojiki  known  to 
students  of  Japanese  antiquity  as 
the  Shimpiiknji'bon, 

Go  Uyaku  Rakan  (properly  Dai- 
t-yuji).  It  is  ■  worth  applying  to 
the  custodian  for  admittance  to 
the  gallery  behind,  where  are  kept 
five  hundred  images  of  Buddha's 
chief  disciples,  mostly  about  2  ft. 
high,  all  brightly  painted,  and  all 
diflerent.  Some  are  smiling,  some 
are  solemn,  some  are  fierce,  some 
stupid-looking,  some  have  a  super- 
cilious air,  some  an  air  of  smug 
self-satisfaction,  some  few  are  lying 
down,  others  are  praying,  others 
again  have  their  arms  extended  in 
the  attitude  of  benediction,  one  has 
three  eyes,  one  holds  a  tiger-cub  in 
his  arms,  others  ride  on  horses, 
elephants,  phoenixes,  and  so  ou 
almost  ad  infinitum.  No  wonder 
the  Japanese  say  that  among  the 
Five  Hundred  Rakan,  everj^  specta- 
tor can  find  the  likeness  of  his  own 
father  by  dint  of  a  little  searching. 

Nagoya,  like  most  other  large 
towns,  possesses  a  number  of  new, 
uninteresting  buildings  in  the  style 
or  no  style  known  in  the  Japan  of 
to-day  as  *  foreign.'  Such  are  the 
Prefectural  Office,  the  Post  and 
Telegraph  Office,  the  Hospital,  the 
Normal  School,  the  Court  Houses, 
etc. 


268 


Eoute  38. — The  Tokaido. 


The  only  excursion  to  be  recom- 
mended in  the  neighbourhood  of 
Nagoya  is  to  the  potteries  of  Seto 
between  5  and  6  ri  distant.  See 
Route  36. 

From  Nagoya  on  to  Kusatsu  the 
railway  line  desert^s  the  old  Tokaido, 
and,  though  called  the  Tokaido 
Railway,  really  follows  the  Naka- 
Kendo.  Quitting  Nagoya,  the  train 
wends  on  through  more  and  ever 
more  rice-fields,  with  blue  moun- 
tains far  ahead,  somewhat  to  the  1. 
They  are  the  mountains  dividing  the 
provinces  ^rOwari  and  ^lino  from 
those  of  Omi  and  Ise.  Fourteen 
miles  out  of  Nagoya,  the  line  crosses 
the  Kisogawa,  the  river  whose 
upper  course  forms  so  beautiful  a 
portion  of  the  Nakasendo,  and 
which  is  picturesque  even  here  near 
its  mouth. 

Glfn  (IniiSf  *  Tamai-ya,  Tsuno- 
kuni-ya)  is  an  important  place,  and 
capital  of  the  prefecture  of  the  same 
name,  which  includes  the  two  provin- 
ces of  Mino  and  Hida.  On  a  conical 
hill  named  Inaba-yama,  E.  of  the 
town,  stand  the  remains  of  a  castle 
built  by  the  great  warrior  Ota 
Nobunaga.  Raw  silk  and  the  silk 
of  the  wild  silkwonn  are  produced 
in  large  quantities  in  the  neigh- 
bourhood, most  of  "it  being  woven 
into  crape.  In  this  the  glittering 
threads  of  the  wild  silk,  which  takes 
the  dye  in  a  less  degree  than  that 
of  the  ordinary  silkworm,  are  intro- 
duced to  form  the  pattern.  The 
mon-chirimen  woven  in  this  manner 
is  a  very  handsome  fabric. 

In  the  summer-tmie  it  may  be 
worth  staying  over  a  night  at  (jrifu, 
in  order  to  see  an  extremely  curious 
method  of  fishing  with  the  help  of 
cormorants  on  the  River  Nagara. 
The  traveller  is  referred  for  a  des- 
cription of  this  to  the  article  entitled 
Cormorant  Fishing  in  '  Things 
Japanese.'     On  nearing 

Ognki  (InnSj  Kyomaru-ya  near 
the  station ;  Tama-ya),  the  castle 
of  the  former  Daimyo,  with  one 
turret  in  fairly  good  preservation,  is 


seen  1.  of  the  line.  An  expeditioxi. 
may  be  made  from  Ogaki  to  the 
waterfall  of  Tord-ga-taki,  70  ft. 
high,  distant  3  ri  among  the  hills. 
Close  to  it  fossil  ferns  are  found. 
The  cascade  can  also  be  approached 
from  either  of  the  next  two  stations, 
Tarni  and  Seki-ga-liara.  Here 
the  long,  weary  journey  across  the 
plain  terminates,  and  the  Tokaido 
Railway  again  enters  diversified 
scenery,  as  it  plunges  among  the  hills 
that  enclose  beautiful  Lake  Biwa. 

Seki-^-hara  takes  its  nfline,  whicb  means 
literally  *Moor  of  the  Barrier,*  from  the 
barrier  of  Fuwa  {Futca  no  seki)  establisbecl 
at  thi8  spot  in  A.D.  673  by  the  Ii^penr 
Tenimu,  it  bavin}?  been  a  JHpHne««  custom 
from  the  earliest  period  down  to  the  begin- 
niD?  of  the  present  reign  to  bani{)er  free 
eoDirnunieation  throughout  the  country  by 
means  of  bHrriers  near  the  Ciipital,  wliidi 
none  misbt  pass  without  a  special  permit. 
Seki-ga-bara  is  celebrated  in  Japmese 
history  as  the  scene  of  a  det-if^ive  battle 
fou!?Iit  in  the  year  1600  between  Iey.'.8n  aad 
Bideyori,  son  of  the  ^eut  Tlideyoshi,  in 
which  leyasu  triumphed.  His  camp  at 
Seki-ga'hara  was  on  a  level  piece  of  ground 
among  the  hills  on  the  1.  side  of  the  rotid, 
near  a  hamlet  chilled  Nogami-mura. 

Between  Seki-ga-hara  and 
Na^aoka  the  gradient  is  steep, 
the  line  being  led  up  a  narrow  valley 
opening  out  on  a  small  plain  devoted 
to  the  cultivation  of  the  mulberry- 
tree.  The  tall  bare  mountain  fre- 
quently seen  looming  up  to  the  r. 
during  this  portion  of  the  journey 
is  Ibuki-yama  (about  4,300  ft.),  one 
of  the  '  Seven  High  Mountains  *  of 
Central  Japan,  and  noted  in  the 
early  Japanese  pharmacopoeia  for 
its  wealth  of  medicinal  plants. 

The  'Seven  Higli_ Mountains*  are  Hiei- 
zan,  Hira-yarna  in  Ouii,  Ibuki-yatna,  Kim- 
pu-zan  (oi  Omine)  near  Yoshino,  Atago- 
san  in  Yamasliiro,  Touomine,  and  Kazn- 
raki-yama. 

Passing  among  pretty,  pine-clad 
hills  we  reach 

Maibara  {Inny  Itsutsu-ya  at  the 
station),  whence  all  the  way  on  to 
Baba,  the^  station  for  the  important 
town  of  Otsu,  the  line  runs  along 
the  basin  of  Lake  Biwa,  though 
unfortunately  not  near  enough  to 
the  shore  to  allow  of  many  glimpses 
of  the  lake  being   obtained.    The 


Weatrni  Section  of  Raihcai/. 


269 


^hole  scenery  is,  however,  pretty — 
a,nd  pretty  in  a  way  of  its  own. 
Quite  close,  to  the  1.,  is  the  range  of 
hills  forming  the  Southern  rim  of 
the  Lake  Biwa  basin ;  far  awaj  to 
the  r.,  in  the  dim  distance,  are  the 
blue  mountains  enclosing  the  lake 
■on  the  N.,  while  immediately  on 
either  side  of  the  line,  is  a  fair 
-cultivated  plain.     At 

Hikoiie  (InnSj  Kaku-raku-tei,  Ma- 
tsu-ya)  the  former  Daimyo's  castle 
is  seen  r.  on  a  wooded  hill.  Before 
reaching 

!Notogawa,  the  rivers  Serigawa, 
Inukami-gawa,  and  Echigawa  are 
crossed.  The  cone  of  Mikami-yama, 
also  called  Mukade-yama,  shaped 
like  Fuji  but  tliickly  wooded,  begins 
to  peep  up  from  behind  a  nearer 
range  of  hills  before  reaching 

Kasatsil.  Between  this  place  and 
Baba,  the  most  striking  view  on  the 
whole  Tokaido  W.  of  Shizuoka  is 
obtained  on  crossing  the  long  bridge 
that  spans  the  Setagawa,  the  lake 
opening  out  beautifully  for  a  few 
minutes.     From 

Baba  or  Otsu  (Inn,  Minarai- 
tei,  foreign  style),  the  line  passes 
through  a  tunnel  under  Osaka-yania 
(nothing  to  do  with  the  city  of  D- 
saka),  before  reaching  the  small 
station  of 

Otatil,  where  it  emerges  on  a 
narrow  valley.  The  hills  are  covered 
with  that  thick  growth  of  pine-trees 
which  is  characteristic  of  all  the 
country  round  about  Kyoto. 

[For  further  details  concerning 
the  portion  of  the  Tokaid  > 
Route^  lying  between  ISIaibara 
and  Otani,  see  Route  44,  en- 
titled Lake  Biica.] 

Passing  through  thQ„stations  of 
Tniiiashina  and  Inari,  the  train 
enters  the  old  capital, 

Kyoto,  fully  described  in  Route 
43,  after  which  it  crosses  a  wide 
plain  and  passes  through  several 
minor  stations  before  reaching  the 
great  commercial  town  of 

Osaka*  described  in  Route  42. 
From  Osaka  onwards,  the  hills  in 


the  distance  to  the  r.  begin  to  draw 
in,  the  broad  fruitful  plain  rapidly 
contracts  until  it  becomes  a  mere 
strip  fringing  the  seashore,  and  at 
the  station  of 

Nisliiiioiiiiya  there  begins  to  rise 
r.  the  screen*  of  somewhat  baxaren 
hills  that  lielp  to  give  Kobe  its  good 
climate  by  protecting  that  part  of 
the  coast  from  wintry  blasts.  The 
high  land  seen  in  tlie  distance 
across  the  water  is  not,  as  might  be 
supposed,  an  island,  but  a  portion, 
of  the  province  oE  Izumi.  The  three 
tunnels  passed  through  on  this  sec- 
tion of  the  journey  are  remarkable 
as  going  under  river-beds.  Owing 
to  the  proximity  of  the  neigh- 
bouring mountains  to  the  sea,  quan- 
tities of  sand  and  stones  are  swept 
down  whenever  tlie  streams  are 
swollen  by  rain.  As  a  consequence 
of  this,  the  river-beds  tend  con- 
stantly to  raise  themselves  more 
and  more  above  the  general  level 
of  the  country,  which  they  tra- 
verse like  dykes.  Occasionally  of 
course  a  dyke  breaks  down,  and 
then  there  is  an  inundation  with 
attendant  loss  of  life  and  property. 
Soon  after  passing  through 

Sniniyosli],  an  insignificant  place 
not  to  be  confounded  with  the  well- 
known  Sumiyoshi  near  Sakai,  the 
train  runs  in  to 

Saiinoiiiiya,  and  the  long  jour- 
ney is  at  an  end,  Sannomiya  being 
the  station  for  the  foreign  settle- 
ment of  Kobe.  To  go  on  one  station 
further  to  what  is  technically  called 

Kobe,  would  carry  the  traveller 
past  his-  destination  into  the 
native  town.  It  must  therefore  be 
distinctly  borne  in  mind  that  if 
bound  for  Kobe,  one  must  book  only 
as  far  as  Sannomiya. 

[For  Kobe  and  Neighbourhood, 
sec  Route  41.] 


270 


Route  39, — The  Xakasendu. 


ROUTE  39. 

The  Nakasexdo. 

Itinerary  of  the  Nakasendo  from 

Yokohama  to  Gifu. 

YOKOKAWA  to :—    Ri.  Chd.  M. 

Sakamoto 1    31  4^ 

KARUIZAWA  . . . .  2    31  7 

Kutsukake     1     10  3 

Oiwake 1      6  2f 

Otai    1     12  3J 

Iwamurata    1      3  2| 

Shionada   1     16  3^ 

Yawata 23  1^ 

Mochizuki 33  2^ 

Ashida    1      9  3 

Nagakubo 1     13  3J 

Wada 2—5 

SHIMO-NO-SUWA  5    23  13f 

Shiojiri »....  2    30  7 

Seba    1    28  4^ 

Motoyama 28  2 

Kiekawa    2    —  5 

Narai 1     29  4  J 

Yabuhara 1     12  3J 

Miyanokoshi 1    35  4| 

FUKUSHIMA....  2    11  5| 

Agematbu 2    11  5| 

Suwara 3      7  7f 

Nojiri 1    29  4^ 

Midono 2     11  5$ 

Tsumago    1      8  3 

Magome 1     34  4| 

Ochiai    1      7  3 

NAKATSU-GAWA  1    —  2^ 

Oi    2    25  6^ 

Okute 3    13  8i 

Hosokute   1     26  4J 

Mitake    2    33  7 

Fushimi 18  3 

Ota 1    32  ^ 

Unuma 2    10  5^ 

Kano 4      7  lOJ 

GIFU 24  1| 

Total 68    30  168 


The  Nakasendo,  or  *  Centrnl  'Monntnin 
Bood,'  is  so  named  in  contradistinction  to 
the 'I'dkaido,  or  ^Eaptem  bea  Road,'  and 
the  Hokurokudd,  or  '  Northern  Land  Road,' 
"between  which  it  occupies  a  middle  posi- 
tion. It  runs  from  Tokyo  to  Kyoto,  pass- 
inpr  through  the  provinces  of  Musaslii, 
Kdtsuke,  Bhinshtt,   Mino,   Omi,  and  Ya- 


mashiro.  HRke  road  seems  to  hare  been 
originMlly  ctrnftnicted  eiirly  in  the  8th 
centory.  Legendary  history  8tMt««,  how- 
ever, that  in  the  reign  of  the  £mperor 
Keiko  (A.D.  71-130),  his  8'>n,  Prince 
Tamato-take,  crossed  over  the  Usui  Pass 
during  his  conquest  of  Eastern  Japan, 
sn^esting  the  inference  that  some  Kind  of 
track  was  believed  to  hare  existed  there 
from  the  very  earliest  times,  'ilie  railway 
route  closely  follows  that  of  the  ancient 
highway  over  the  well-cultivated  plain  of 
Tokyo,  and  is  flat  lind  uninteresting  UII 
Takasaki  is  left  behind. 

Though,  properly  speaking,  the 
Nakasendo  nins  the  whole  way  from 
Tokyo  to  Kyoto,  the  jwrtion  be- 
tween Yokokawa  and  Gifu  is  the 
only  one  now  usually  done  by  road, 
the  Tokyo-Takasaki-Karuizawa  Rail- 
way, described  in  Route  12,  having 
replaced  the  Nakasendo  across  the 
plain  of  Tokyo,  and  the  final  flat  piece 
between  Gifu  and  Kyoto  being  alsa 
now  travelled  over  by  the  Tokaido 
Railway  (see  Route  38) .  The  distance 
between  Yokokawa  and  Gifu  may  be 
accomplished  in  6  or  7  days.  Jin- 
rikishas  are  practicable  as  far  as  the 
Wada-toge,  after  which  point  it  is 
only  possible  to  use  them  on  the 
flat  portions  of  the  road,  unless  one 
takes  three  or  four  coolies  to  each 
jinrikisha.  The  distance  byroad  may 
be  shortened  by  taking  train  to  Ta- 
naka  on  the  Karuizawa-Naoetsu 
Railway,  IJ  hr.  from  Karuizawa. 
Travellers  coming  from  the  direc- 
tion of  Naoetsu  and  desirous  of 
joining  the  Nakasendo,  should  alight 
at  Ueda  (see  Route  32).  Those 
coming  from  the  Kyoto  direction 
are  advised  lo  engage  jinrikishas  at 
Gifu,  and  to  take  them  right  through 
to  Yokokawa.  At  Yokokawa  it  is 
more  difficult  to  make  such  an  ar- 
rangement for  the  journey  to  Gifu. 

The  Nakasendo  traverses  moun- 
tainous, sparsely  cultivated  districts, 
remote  from  populous  centres,  and 
the  peasantiy  along  the  route  have 
a  pinched  and  poverty-stricken  ap- 
pearance. The  accommodation, 
however,  is  fairly  good.  Milk,  beer, 
potatoes,  etc.,  may  be  procured  at 
several  places.  The  best  time  for 
travelling  along  the  Nakasendo  is 
the  summer  or  autumn.    Between 


Fratn  Karuizaiva  to  Shiuw-nO'Siiwa, 


271 


January  and  April  this  route  is  not  ^ 
to  be  recommended,  on  account  of 
the  snow — especially  on  the  passes. 

For  the  portion  of  the  road  as  far 
as  Karuizawa,  passing  through  Sa- 
kamoto (Inn,  Kodake-ya),  see  p.  142. 

After  passing  through 

Kiitsukake  {Inn,  Masu-ya),  and 
OiiTake^i^m,Nakamura),  the  latter 
a  place  once  possessing  some  im- 
portance, but  now  ruined  by  the 
railway  having  diverted  the  traffic 
from  the  highway,  the  Nakasendo 
makes  a  sharp  turn  to  tlio  1.  and 
gradually  descends  the  grassy  base 
of  Asama-yama. 

[For  the  ascent  of  this  volcano 
see  p.  144.] 

The  ample  sweep  of  the  moun- 
tain is  calculated  to  impress  the 
beholder,  and  the  walk  over  the 
springy  turf  is  most  exliilarating. 
Large  blocks  of  lava  that  lie  scat- 
tered about  in  all  directions  attest 
the  violence  of  the  eruption  which 
occurred  in  17B3,  when  Oiwake  and 
other  places  in  the  vicinity  were 
completely  destroyed.  The  track  of 
the  Karuizawa-Naoetsu  Railway  is 
crossed  about  1  ri  after  leaving  Oi- 
wake. 

Iwamnrata  (Inn,  Wakamatsu- 
ya)  was  formerly  the  seat  of  a  small 
Daimyo,  Naito  Wakasa-no-Kami. 

[At  this  place  a  road  branches 
off  1.  to  Kofu  \'ih  the  Tsuyutare 
Pass.    See  p.  138] . 

Beyond  Shioiiada  the  road  crosses 
the  Chikuma-gawa,  also  called  Shi- 
nano-gawa,  which,  flowing  north- 
ward, becomes  one  of  the  great 
rivers  of  Japan  and  falls  into  the 
sea  at  Niigata.  Between  Yawata 
and 

Mocliiziiki  (Inn,  Kawachi-ya), 
a  fine  view  of  Yatsu-ga-take  aud 
the  mountains  E.  of  jMatsumoto  is 
obtained  from  a  hill  called  Uryii- 
zaka.  From  ^lochizuki  the  road 
giadually  rises  over  undulating 
country  formed  by  the  spurs  of 
Tateshina-yama  to  Ashita,  a  poor 
Till,  at  the  foot  of  the  Kasatori- 
toge.    The  ascent  of  this  pass,  3,200 


ft.  above  the  sea,  is  short  and  easy, 
and  from  the  tea-house  at  the  top,, 
the  traveller  can  enjoy  a  magnificent 
prospect.    The  summit  of  Asama- 
yama  rises  grandly  above  Gimba- 
yama,  with  lesser  heights  stretching 
away  in  a  line    to    the    1.,  while 
below  lies  the  wide  moor  that  has 
just  been  traversed.    At  the  foot  of 
the  pass  on  the  other  side  (650  ft. 
down),  is  the  village  of 
Nagnkiibo  {Inn,  Yamazaki-ya). 
Wada   {Inns,  Hagawa-ya,  Nagai) 
lies  at  the  N.E.  foot  of  the  pass  of 
the   same    name    {Wada-tdgv),   the 
longest  and  highest  en  the  Kaka- 
sendd,    being  5,300  ft.   above   the 
level  of  the  sea.     Snow  lies  on  it  up 
to  the  end  of  April,  but  is  seldom 
so  deep    as    to    block    the    road* 
Rather    than     stay    overnight     at 
Wada,  which  is  often  crowded  in 
summer,    most     travellers     prefer 
pushing  on  to  the  cluster  of  tea- 
houses (Kiso-ya  and  Tsuchi-ya  are 
the  best)  collectively  known  as 

Higashi  Mochiya,  6  cho  from 
the  top  of  the  pass.  The  glorious^ 
view  from  the  summit  may  best 
be  enjoyed  by  climbing  one  of 
the  hills  to  tlie  r.  of  the  road,, 
involving  ^  lir.  delay.  To  the 
N.E.,  rises  Asama-yama ;  to  the 
S.E.  Tateshina  and  Yatsu-ga-take ; 
S.W.  the  eye  rests  upon  the  basin 
of  Lake  Suwa;  further  to  the  W. 
stand  Koma-ga-take  and  Ontake,. 
while  to  the  N.W.  a  great  portion 
of  the  Hida-Shiushu  rauge  is  visible. 
The  descent  to  Shimo-no-Suwa 
soon  leads  to  a  dull  valley  between 
hills  of  no  great  height,  every  avail- 
able nook  of  which  has  been  brought 
under  cultivation.  The  stone  monu- 
ment passed  on  the  way  is  to  the 
memory  of  six  warriors  who,  sur- 
prised here  by  the  enemy,  com- 
mitted harakiri  rather  than  sur- 
render. This  was  in  December,  1863. 
Shiiiio-no-Sinva  {Iniis,  *Maru-ya, 
KikyO-ya)  lies  in  a  large  basin,  the 
greater  part  of  which  is  occupied 
by  Lake  Suwa.  It  is  celebrated 
for  its  hot-springs,  the  principal 
of   which,  called   }yata-no-yu,  are 


272 


Route  39. — The  Xalcasefido. 


situated  at  the  top  of  the  street 
where  the  Nakaseodo  turns  to  the 
r.  and  the  Kosliu  Kaido  branches 
off  to  the  1.  The  baths  are  very 
<;lean ;  the  temperature,  113°.9  F. 
According  to  the  inhabitants  these 
waters  contain  silver.  Of  the  two 
other  principal  sources  in  the  vill., 
one  called  Ko-yUj  which  contains 
alum,  has  the  high  ^ temperature  of 
145°.4  ;  the  other,  called  Tanga-ytiy 
has  a  temperature  of  114°.8.  As 
in  the  case  of  many  Japanese  spas, 
Shimo-no-Suwa  is  apt  to  be  noisy 
of  an  evening.  In  the  day  time  it 
is  busy  with  the  silk  industr5\  The 
only  buildings  of  any  interest  at 
Shimo-no-Suwa  are  two  temples 
dedicated  to  the  Shinto  goddess 
Yasaka-iri-hime,  one  of  which  is 
•called  HarU'tw-viiyay  or  the  Spring 
Temple,  the  other,  Aki-iio-vm/a,  or 
the  Autumn  Temple.  In  the  grounds 
of  the  latter  stands  a  cryptomeria 
remarkable  for  its  gigantic  size.  A 
quarter  of  an  hour's  walk  taJces  one 
to  the  lake  which  is  almost  circular 
in  form,  having  a  diameter  of  about 
1  ri.    Its  depth  is  said  to  be  35  ft. 

Lake  Suva  freezes  oyer  most  winters  so 
solidly  that  lienvily  laden  pack  horses  can 
cross  over  to  Kami-no-Svwa^  near  tlie  S.  E. 
extremity  of  the  iHke,  "with  perfect  safety. 
U'he  inhabitAnts  do  not,  however,  venture 
upon  the  i<'e  until  it  has  cracked  across, 
believing?  this  to  be  a  sipn  from  heaven. 
8ome  attribute  the  ernckingr  to  the  foxes. 
Durinjf  the  winter  the  flj<hennen  make 
holes  in  tlie  ice,  through  which  tliey  insert 
their  nets  and  contrive  to  take  a  ctjnsider- 
able  quantity  of  lish,  especially  caip.  From 
the  JS.  end  of  Lake  Suwa  issues  the 
TennQ-pawa,  wliich  flows  into  the  sea  on 
the  Tokaido.  For  the  descent  of  the  flue 
rapids  of  this  river  see  p.  240. 

From  Shimo-no-Suwa  the  Naka- 
sendo  runs  for  some  distance 
through  rich  rice-fields  extending 
to  the  edge  of  the  lake.  To  tlie  foot 
of  the  Shiojiri-toge  is  a  distance  of 
21  cho.  On  looking  back,  views  of 
Fuji  are  obtained  from  different 
points.  The  ascent  of  the  pass  is 
at  first  gentle,  and  in  the  steeper 
part  there  is  a  well-graded  jinriki- 
sha  road.  But  pedestrians  will  do 
best  to  take  the  older  and  steeper 


path,    which    saves  time   and    af- 
fords finer  views.    The  finest  view^ 
of  all  is    to    be  obtained    from   a 
slight  eminence  to  the  1.  of  the  road 
at  the  top,  3,340  it.  above  the  sea. 
Below  lies  the  lake   with  villages 
studded  over  the  adjacent  plain.   Of 
the  high  mountains  that  almost  com- 
pletely encircle  the  lake  basin,  Ya- 
tsu-ga-take  is  the  most  prominent. 
To  the  r.  of  the  dip  at  the  far-end  of 
the  lake,  a  portion  of  Fuji  is  seen 
behind  the  nearer  range.   The  sharp 
peak  further  round  to  the  r.  is  the 
K5shu  Koma-ga-take,  and  further 
away    rises    the  long    summit    of 
Shirane-san.     A  little  further  back, 
the  top  of    On  take    is  just    visible- 
Just  behind  are  the  lofty  peaks  of 
the  range    separating  the  plain  of 
^Matsumoto  from    the  province  of 
Hida.     The  descent  on  the  other 
side  is  very  easy.     Passing  through 

Sliiojiri  (Inn^  Kawakami),  Seba> 
and    , 

Moloyama  (Inn,  Hanamura-ya), 
we  come  to  some  charming  scenery 
on  the  banks  of  the  Saigawa,  and 
follow  that  river  to 

Nie^awrt,  where  the  inn  kept  by 
by  Okuya  Dembei  is  the  most  com- 
fortable to  be  found  anywhere 
on  this  route.  Niegawa  marks  the 
commencement  of  the  Kiso  district, 
watered  by  the  Kisogawa,  which  is 
famous  for  its  beauty.  Hence  the 
alternative  name  of  the  Kiso  Kaido, 
by  which  the  Nakasendo  is  some- 
times mentioned.  After  Niegawa, 
the  road  crosses  the  river  to  Hira- 
sawa,  where  cheap  and  useful 
lacquered  articles  are  made  in  large 
quantities,    and  then  re-crosses  to 

Narai  [Inns,  Echigo-ya,  Tokkuri- 
ya),  3,330  ft.  above  the  sea  at 
the  foot  of  the  ToiH-toge.  This 
pass,  though  short,  is  steeper  than 
those  hitherto  crossed  on  the  Naka- 
sendo ;  the  height  of  the  summit  is 
4,200  ft.,  the  distance  from  Narai  to 
that  point  being  22  chb.  f^rom  the 
top,  the  eye  wanders  over  the  valley 
through  which  the  upper  waters  of 
the  Kisogawa  fiow.  The  foliage  is 
very  fine, — beeches,  horse-chestnuts^ 


Tlie  Kiso  Valley,     Ftihtshima,  .  Agematsn, 


27a 


walnut-trees,  and  maples,  which  in 
autumn  blaze  with  every  tint  of 
red  and  yellow. 

The  name  of  this  pass  is  derived  from 
the  torii  on  the  top,  dedicated  to  Ontnke, 
the  summit  of  which  luountaiu  is  visible 
hence  on  a  clear  day.  Strange  as  it  may 
seetn,  two  battles  were  foug-lit  oa  this  spot 
in  the  16th  century,  between  some  of  the 
rival  chieftains  who,  during  that  period  of 
Anarchy,  shared  Eastern  Japan  amongst 
^em.  From  the  base  of  Asama-ynma  up 
to  this  point,  the  prevalent  formation  is 
stratified  rock  which  breaks  up  into  small 
sharp  pieces  extremely  uncomfortable  to 
the  feet,  while  beyond  it  is  chiell/  granite 
'vrhich,  when  disintegrated,  forms  au  excel- 
lent material  for  road-making. 

The  descent  to  Vabliliara  (Inns, 
Xawakami,  Kawashima-ya),  8,150 
ft.  above  the  sea,  is  by  an  easy 
gradient.  The  peasants,  both  male 
and  female,  of  this  neighbourhood 
wear  a  divided  skirt  of  a  peculiar 
cut.  They  also  use  an  odd  kind  of 
spade,  heavy  and  two-handled.  The 
diggers  stand  opposite  each  other, 
one  delving,  the  other  using  the 
second  handle  to  assist  in  raising 
the  blade  for  the  next  blow.  Good 
potatoes  are  grown  hereabouts, 
and  are  largely  used,  not  only  for 
food,  but  for  the  manufacture  of 
spirits  (sJidchu). 

[From  Yabuhara  a  road  follows 
the  r.  bank  of  the  Kisogawa 
nearly  up  to  its  source,  and 
passes  over  into  the  province  of 
Hida.] 

The  road  now  follows  the  1.  bank 
of  the  Kisogawa,  crossing  to  the  r. 
bank  at  a  point  where  tlie  valley 
contracts  and.  begins  to  wind  about. 
After  passing 

MiyAiiokoshi  (Imi,  Tonari-ya), 
there  is  a  fine  view  near  the 
village  '  of  Ueda  of  the  Shinshii 
£oma-ga-take,  which  consists  of 
several  rugged  peaks  rising  to  an 
altitude  of  over  10,000  ft.  The 
lower  hill  in  front  is  called  Suisho- 
zan,  from  the  fact  that  rock-crystals 
are  found  in  it.  All  the  avail- 
able ground  near  ^liyanokoshi  is 
planted  with  mulberry  trees.  Most 
of  the  silk  produced  finds  its  way  to 
the  looms  of  Nagahama  in  Omi. 


Fliklishima  [Inn,  Suimei-ro,  pic- 
turesquely situated)  is  a  good-sized 
town  extending  along  both  banks  of 
the  Kisogawa.  The  portion  of  the 
route  between  Fukushima  and 
Agematsu  surpasses  all  the  rest  of 
the  Nakasendo  both  in  charm  and 
grandeur.  Indeed,  either  Fuku- 
shima or 

Agematsn  (Inny  Hakuichi-ya) 
would  be  a  delightful  place  for  the 
lover  of  mountain  scenery  to  stay 
at  for  a  few  days.  Both  Ontake 
and  Koma-ga-take  •  can  be  conveni- 
ently ascended  from  these  points. 
(See  Koute  34.) 

The  next  object  of  interest  on 
the  road  is  the  monastery  of  Rhi- 
zetiji,  from  the  grounds  of  which  a 
steep  path  descends  to  a  plat- 
form of  rock  known  as  Nemme  no 
tokOy  or  '  the  Bed  of  Awakening.' 

This  curions  name  is  derived  from  a 
local  tradition  which  avers  tliat  Urashima, 
the  Japanese  Rip  Van  Winkle  (see  Ete.  47),. 
awoke  in  this  spot  from  his  long'  dream. 
Others,  more  matter-of-fact,  explain  the 
name  to  mean  that  tlie  view  *  wakes  up,' 
that  is,  startles  those  who  come  upon  it. 

Besides  the  *  platform,'  there  are 
other  rocks,  precipitous  and  pic- 
turesque, to  which  fanciful  names 
have  been  given,  such  as  the  Screen 
Rock,  th6  Mat  Rock,  etc.  The  native 
guide-bbok  says,  *  The  wonderful 
scenery  at  this  spot  surpasses  even 
the  most  magnificent  prospects  in 
other  parts.  Its  noble  character 
can  scarcely  be  fully  appreciated  by 
the  mind  or  adequately  described 
in  language ! ' 

The  Namcgawa  is  next  crossed 
by  a  bridge  from  which  there  is  a 
fine  view  of  Koma-ga-take  up  the 
gorge.  A  little  beyond  this  on  the 
1.,  just  before  reaching  Ogiwara,  is 
the  Cascade  of  Ono,  Fifteen  clio- 
further  on  is  thevill.  of  Tatsumachi, 
and  1^  ri  more  journeying  brings 
the  traveller  to 

Siiwara  (Inn,  Sakura-ya),  which 
lies  in  a  more  open  part  of  the 
valley,  nearer  to  the  level  of  the 
river.  At  Hashiwa,  a  hamlet 
beyond  Suwara,  skins  of  the  great 
falcon     {kimia-taka)    and    of    the 


Uli 


FiOiOe  39. — llie  XaJcasendo, 


sheep-faced  antelope  (iwa'sUika)  are 
hung  out  for  sale.     From 

Nojiri  (Inn,  Furu-ya)  to 

Midoiio  (Inn,  Miyagawa)  is  the 
narrowest  part  of  the  valley ;  the 
rocks  are  steep,  and  the  road  over- 
hangs the  rushing  stream.  In  many 
places  it  is  laid  on  ledges  huilt  out 
from  the  rock,  and  at  one  point  passes 
over  a  projecting  rock  by  means  of 
two  bridges  thrown  across  deep  gul- 
lies. Tsumago  should  be  avoided  as 
s.  halting-place,  the  inns  being  un- 
usually poor  and  malodorous.  The 
road  now  ascends  the  Magome-iogc 
by  a  gentle  gradient.  The  summit 
commands  an  extensive  view  of  the 
province  of  Mino,  with  its  low-lying, 
somewhat  bare  and  sandy  hills.  On 
the  other  side  of  the  pass  is  the 
vill.  of 

MngOiiie  (Inn,  Kuno-ya),  perched 
on  the  top  of  a  wooded  hill  cut  into 
terraces  for  the  cultivation  of  rice. 
The  descent  from  Magome  is  called 
the  Jdh-kokn-toge,  said  to  be  a  cor- 
ruption of  Jik-kyokiij  or  '  ten  turn- 
ings.' About  400  ft.  below  Magome, 
s.  post  marks  the  boundary  between 
the  provinces  of  Shinshu  and  Mino. 
Ochiai  lies  in  a  hollow  by  the 
side  of  an  affluent  of  the  Kiso- 
g&wsi,  which  latter  river  here  again 
comes  in  sight  to  the  r.  The  road  now 
crosses  the  spurs  of  Ena-san  until 
'  reaching 

^akaitsii-^awa  (Inn,  Hashiriki), 
which  is  situated  close  to  the  base 
of  that  mountain.  From  here  the 
way  is  mostly  hilly  on  to 

Ui  (l7in,  Ishikawa). 

[Between  Oi  and  Mitake,  a  dis- 
tance of  8  rl  along  the  Najca- 
sendo,  1  ri  may  be  saved  by 
diverging  along  branch  roads 
called  the  Shita  Kaidb  and 
Naka ,  Kaidb,  passing  through 
the  village  of  Kamado  (Inn, 
Suzuki),  and  avoiding  the  climb 
over  tlie  Ju-san-toge.  On  this 
route  lies  a  gorge  lined  with 
great  black  boulders  of  curious 
shape,  known  by  such  names 
as  the   'The  Devil's  Washing 


Basin,*  *  The  Hanging  BeU 
Rock,' etc.  Ciystals  and  pebbles 
of  various  colours  are  found 
here.] 

The  road  from  Oi  to  Okute  lies 
over  a  succession  of  hills  called  the 
Ju'San-tdge,  or  *  Thirteen  Passes,' 
none  of  which  are  very  high.  From 
an  elevation  above  the  Shichi-Jion- 
matsti-mka,  or  Hill  of  the  Seven 
PJne-Trees,  there  is  a  grand  view  of 
both  Ontake  and  Koma-ga-take.  The 
general  aspect  of  the  surrounding 
hills  is  bare. 

•Oknte  (Inn,  Yamashiro-ya)  is  & 
neat  town  ou  the  level.  Between 
here  and 

Hos  kiite  (Inn,  Matsu-ya),  the 
road  passes  over  a  series  of  hills 
called  collectively  the  Biiva-tbge. 
At  Hosokute  the  traveller  should 
ask  for  a  tsngiimi,  a  kind  of  thrush 
preserved  in  ye&st  (kbji-znke),  which 
when  slightly  roasted  is  delicious, 
and  forms  a  welcome  addition  to- 
monotonous  travelling  fare.  Passing 
through 

At  i take  (Inn,  Kawaguchi-ya)  and 
Fnshimi,  we  cross  the  Kisogawa  to 

Ota  (inn,  Iwaiya),  from  which 
place  the  river  is  navigable.  From 
Ota  to,  Gifu  there  is  little  to 
mention,  except  that  this  part  of  the 
route  is  the  most  comfortable  for 
jinrikisha  riding.  The  well-kept  road 
passes  through  vistas  of  green 
avenues,  with  beautiful  glimpses  of 
the  Kisogawa  which  now  becomes 
a  broad  and  deep  river. 

Gifii  (see  p.  268). 


1 


Route  40. — Voyage  from  Yokohama  to  Kobe, 


275 


ROUTE  40. 

By   steamer  from   Yokohama  to 
KoBE.f 

While  steaming  down  Tokyo  Bay, 
there  is  a  good  view  of  Fuji  with 
the  Hakone  range  in  the  foreground 
on  the  r. ;  on  the  1.  is  the  flat  shore 
of  the  province  of  Kazusa.  At  1  hr. 
the  ship  will  be  near  Kwannon-zaki, 
on  which  there  is  a  fixed  white  light 
visible  14  miles,  showing  a  red  ray 
in  a  certain  direction  to  guide  ves- 
sels clear  of  Saratoga  Spit  (Futtsu- 
saki)  and  Plymouth  Bocks  to  the 
southward. 

One  of  the  first  BritiRli  men-of-war  to 
enter  Tokyo  Bay,  the  old  *  Imp^rieuse,* 
flHg-ship  of  Adinii-al  8ir  James  Hope, 
urrounded  un  Saratov  Spit,  and  had  to 
throw  her  guns  overboai'd  before  she  could 
be  floated  off. 

Powerful  forts  have  been  con- 
structed on  Kwannon-zaki  and  on 
Saratoga  Spit  for  the  defence  of  the 
Bay.  After  passing  Kwaunon-zaki, 
the  ship  steers  down  the  Uraga 
Channel,  so  called  from  the  town  of 
that  name  on  the  shores  of  a  small 
harbour  a  few  miles  S.W.  of  Kwan- 
non-zaki, which  was  formerly  the 
port  of  entry  for  Tokyo  Bay.  At  2 
hrs.  Tsurugi-saki,  the  south  end  of 
the  channel,  is  rounded,  where 
there  is  a  light  visible  24  m. 
Thence  the  track  lies  S.W.  to  Rock 
Island  across  the  Bay  of  Sagami, 
which  opens  on  the  r.,  and  close  past 
the  north  end  of  Vries  Island,  des- 
cribed in  Route  8.  From  4  to  6  hrs. 
the  ship  will  be  running  almost  paral- 
lel to  the  coast  of  the  peninsula  of 
Izu,  within  10  m.  of  the  shore.  A 
fine  prospect  may  be  enjoyed  of  its 
rugged  mountain  chain,  with  Fuji 
beyond,  bearing  N.W.  At  6  hrs. 
Hock  Island  (Mikomoto)^  ofi  the 
extreme  S.  of  Izu,  is  reached ; 
on  it  is  a  fine  light  visible  20  m. 
From  Rock  Island,  the  direct  route 


t  The  expressions  *  at  1  hour,'  *■  at  2  liours,' 
etc.,  in  the  description  of  this  voyage, 
signify  *  when  the  steamer  has  been  1  hour 
out  of  Yokohama,'  *■  2  hours  out  of  Yoko- 
hama,' etc.,  taking  12  knots  per  hour  as 
the  average  speed. 


is  W.S.W.  to  the  S.E.  extremity 
of  the  province  of  Kishu.  This 
course,  which  is  followed  in  the 
summer  months,  leads  the  ship  so 
far  off  shore  that  there  is  little  to 
be  distinguished.  But  in  winter 
the  N.W.  winds  generally  blow  so 
strongly  that,^to  avoid  the  heavy 
sea,  the  ship,  after  passing  Rock 
Island,  is  kept  due  W.,  crossing 
the  mouth  of  Suruga  Gulf,  and 
at  9  hrs.  is  off  Omae-saki,  dis- 
tinguishable at  night  by  a  red 
light  visible  19  m.  Fuji  is  now  60 
m.  distant,  and  will  not  be  seen, 
much  after  this  point  eitcept  in  clear 
winter  weather.  From  Omae-saki 
the  track  recedes  for  some  hours 
from  the  land,  which,  being  low,  is 
not  particularly  interesting ;  and  if 
the  ship  left  Yokohama  just  before 
sunset,  this  part  will  be  passed  in 
the  night.  At  13  hrs.  the  ship  is 
ofi  Owari  Bay,  a  deep  bay  stretch- 
ing some  30  m.  to  the  northward, 
narrow  at  the  entrance,  but  widening 
out  considerably  inside.  It  is  from. 
Omae-saki  to  this  point  that  the 
voyage  is  generally  most  trying  to 
bad  sailors.  At  15  hrs.  the  _ship  is 
ofi  Cape  Shima,  whence  to  Oshima 
is  a  run  of  70  m.,  gradually  ap- 
proaching the  land,  where  fine  views 
of  the  bold  and  picturesque  moun- 
tains of  the  provinces  of  Kishu  and 
Yamato  are  to  be  had. 

This  Oiihiraa  is  of  course  different  from 
the  O'ihiuia  (Vries  Iijland)  mentioned  above. 
There  are  uumeix>us  Oshima's  off  the  Japa- 
nese coa^t,  which  is  not  to  be  wondeied  at,  as 
the  naiJie  means '  big  island.'  ThiH  particiilar 
Oshitiia  ha-s  been  the  scene  of  repeated 
maritime  disitsters.  The  latest  and  moet 
terrible  was  tlie  foundering  of  the  Tur^ 
kish  man-of-war  'Ei1x)Ugroul'  in  siep- 
tember,  1890,  when  502  men  perished  out  of 
a  ci'ew  of  571. 

From  16  hrs.  to  29  hrs.  is  generally 
considered  the  most  enjoyable  part  of 
the  run  from  Yokohama  to  Kobe,  and 
the  traveller  should  make  a  point  o£ 
being  on  deck  as  much  as  possible. 
Rounding  Oshima,  which  is  marked 
by  a  red  light  visible  18  miles,  at 
20  hrs.,  the  vessel  is  close  enough, 
to  the  shore  to  note  the  thickly 
studded  fishing  villages,  whose  fleets 


276 


EotUe  40. — Voyage  from  Yokohmna  to  Kobe, 


of  boats  cover  the  water  for  miles. 
On  both  sides  of  the  Kii  (or  Kishu) 
Promontory,  whale-fishing  with  nets 
is  carried  on.  Half  an  hour's 
steaming  from  Oshima  brings  us  to 
Shio  Misaki,  on  which  is  a  light 
visible  20  m.,  intended  to  guide 
vessels  from  the  eastward.'  From 
Shio  Misaki  the  track  lies  close 
along  the  shore — sometimes  within 
2  m.,  seldoln  more  than  4  m. — to 
Hiino  Misaki,  a  run  of  about  60 
m.,  which,  if  made  in  daylight, 
will  be  even  more  enjoyable  than 
the  70  miles  mentioned  above. 
The  hills  of  the  bold  and  rugged 
coast  of  Kishu  to  the  r.  are  said  to 
abound  in  pheasants,  deer,  bears, 
and  monkej^s.  The  land  now  visi- 
ble on  the  1.  is  the  East  coast  of 
the  Island  of  Shikoku.  At  25  hrs. 
the  ship  is  off  Hiino  Misaki,  and 
after  steering  due  North  for  26  m., 
will  pass  through  Izumi  or  Yura 
Strait,  which  is  about  6  m.  wide, 
the  passage  for  ships  being  narrowed 
to  2  m.  by  two  islands  called  Ji-no- 


shima  and  Oki-no-shima,  on  the  W^ 
side  of  which  latter  is  a  lighthouse^ 
From  Izumi  Strait  to  Kobe  is  a  run 
of  30  m.  across  a  completely  land- 
locked bay,  with  the  large  Island  of 
Awaji  on  the  1.  Kobe  is  generally- 
reached  at  from  28  to  30  hrs.,  wea- 
ther being  favourable. 

Passenger  steamers  usually  re- 
main 24  hrs.  at  Kobe,  which  gives 
travellers  an  opportunity  to  visit 
Osaka  and  Kyoto. 

The  chief  distances  of  the  run 
between  Yokohama  and  Kobe,  as 
made  by  the  Nippon  Ywien  Kivai- 
sha's  steamers,  are  as  follows  : — 

Yokohama  to : —  Miles, 

Lightship    2 

Kwannon-zaki    14 

Cape  Sagami 23 

Rock  Island    74 

Oshima    244 

Hiino  Misaki 297 

Oki-no-shima , 322 

Hyogo  Point ! 346 

Company's  Buoy    348 


SECTION  V. 

WESTERN  JAPAN   AND  THE 

INLAND  SEA. 

(Routes  41 — ^0. 


Eonte  41. — Kobe  and  Xeighboiirhood, 


279 


=  ROUTE  41. 

Kobe  and  Neighbourhood. 

'— ^jkuta.       nunobiki     waterfalls. 

^  suwa-yama.  maya-san  (the  moon 

temple).      futatabi-san.     obu. 

t     momiji-dera.    taisanji.    takara- 

Jl        ZUKA.        BISMARCK     HILL.        SUMA, 

maiko,  and  akashi  on  the  sanyo 

railway.    mino.    arima.    rokko- 

san.    hyogo. 

Kobe. 

Hotels. — Oriental,  No.  80,  near  the 
centre  of  the  Settlement ;  Hyogo 
Hotel,  facing  the  sea  and  close  to 
the  landing-place  in  the  Settlement ; 
Hdtel  des  Colonies. 

•  Japanese  Inn. — Tokiwa. 
Consulates.  —  British     (including 

Austro-Hungarian     and    Spanisli), 

and  German  (including  Italian)  on 

the      Bund  ;     American,     No.     15, 

Settlement ;  French,  No.  21. 

.  Ba7iks. — Hongkong  and  Shanghai 

Bank,  No.  2,  Bund  ;  New  Oriental, 

No.  11,  Bund  ;  Agents  for  Chartered 

,  Mercantile  Bank  of  India,  London 

j  and    China,    No.    7 ;     Agents    for 

I  Chartered  Bank  of  India,  Australia 

and  China,  No.  26. 

Churches.  —  Union  Protestant 
Church  (Anglican  and  Congrega- 
tional services),  No.  48;  Roman 
Catholic,  No.  37. 

Curio-dealers.  —  Museum  of  Arts 
and  Manufactures,  No.  30,  Settle- 
ment, a  foreign  store. 
Native    Curio-shops.  —  Echigo-ya 
I  and  variqus  others  in  Moto-machi ; 
[  Ohashi,  for  modern  art  products,  at 
j  the  end  of  Division  Street  near  the 

railway. 
I      PJwtographers. — Ichida,  in  Moto- 
machi  (5lain  Street),  native  town  ; 
Kasuga,  in  Sakae-machi. 
Newspapers.  —  *'  Hyogo      News  " 

•  and  "  Kobe  Herald,"  daily. 
Steadier     Agencies.  —  Peninsular 

[and  Oriental  Co.,  No.  109;  Mes- 
«ageries  Maritimes,  No.  5 ;  Nord- 
deutscher  Lloyd,  No.  10 ;  Canadian 
Pacific,    No.    26;    Nippon    YGsen 


r 


Kwaisha,  No.  2,  Native  Bund. 
Kobe  is  also  the  centre  for  the 
numerous  small  steamers  plying  on 
the  coast  of  the  Inland  Sea. 

The  Kobe  Club  and  the  Recreation 
Ground  for  cricket,  base-ball,  lawn- 
tennis,  &c.,  are  at  the  E.  end  of  the 
Settlement. 

r/iea/rc.^— Daikoku-za,  at  Nanko- 
mae  in  the  Japanese  town.  There 
is  also  one  at  Hyogo  called  Ben- 
ten-za. 

The  Post  and  Telegraph  Office  and 
the  terminus  (Kobe  station)  of  the 
Tokaido  Railway  from  Yokohama  to 
Kobe  are  in  the  native  town  at  the 

« 

W.  end  of  Sakae-machi.  The  sta- 
tion nearest  to  the  Settlement  for 
travellers  to  Osaka,  Kyoto,  and 
Yokohama  is  Sannomiya,  5  min. 
from  the  landing-place,  following 
Division  street.  Kobe  station  is 
also  the  terminus  of  the  Sanyo 
line  running  down  the  shore  of  the 
Inland  Sea,  and  travellers  in  that 
direction  should,  in  order  to  avoid 
delay,  start  from  Kobe  station,  not 
from  Sannomiya.  No  passports  are 
required  for  Osaka;  but  persons 
travelling  to  places  beyond  that 
town  in  one  direction,  and  to  Hi- 
meji  and  beyond  in  the  other,  are 
compelled  to  produce  passports  be- 
fore tickets  are  issued  to  them. 
Local  passports  for  Kyoto,  Nara» 
and  the  shores  of  Lake  Biwa  are 
procurable  at  the  foreign  department 
of  the  Prefecture;  but  strangers 
must  apply  for  them  through  their 
consulates.  More  extensive  pass- 
ports are  obtainable  within  three  or 
four  days  from  the  Japanese  For- 
eign Office  in  Tokyo,  on  application 
through  the  Consulates. 

Kobe  was  opened  to  foreign  trade  in 
1S68.  Previous  to  that  time  the  ntttiTS 
trade  whs  carried  on  at  Hyogo.  a  lance 
town  adjoiuin;?  Kobe  on  the  6.W.,  and 
griviug  its  name  to  the  whole  Prefecture. 
The  municipal  affairs  of  the  Hettlement 
are  managed  by  a  Council  consisting  of  the 
Japanese  prefect,  the  foreign  consuls,  and 
three  elected  mernbei's  of  the  community. 
Owing  to  the  increase  in  the  trade  and 
populatiou  of  the  port.  Kobe  is  rapidly 
extending  bevond  the  Settlement  up  the 
slope  to  the  foot  of  the  hills,  as  far  as  the 


280 


Botite  41, — Kobe  and  ^eif/JihowJiood, 


[ 


limit  within  which  foreigners  are  allowed 
to  lease  land  uud  houses. 

Kobe  is  the  favourite  open  port  in 
Japan,  owing  to  the  purity  and  dry- 
ness of  its  air,  and  its  nearness  to 
many  places  of  beauty  and  interest, 
such  as  Kyoto,  Lake  Biwa,  Nara, 
and  the  Inland  Sea.  The  neigh- 
bourhood abounds  in  pretty  walks 
and  picnic  resorts,  of  wliich  the  fol- 
lowing are  the  chief : — 

1.  Ikllta.  The  Shinto  temple  of 
Ikuta  stands  in  a  wood  of  crjp- 
tomerias  and  camphor  trees,  5  min. 
walk  behind  the  foreign  Settlement. 
The  deity  worshipped  is  Waka- 
hirume-no-^Iikoto,  who  may  be 
styled  the  Japanese  Minerva,  as  she 
is  supposed  to  have  taught  the  use 
of  the  loom  and  to  have  introduced 
clothing. 

The  t*»mple  is  said  to  have  been  fonnded 
by  the  Empre»s  Jin^o  on  her  return  from 
her  famous  expedition  ng'ains»t  Korea,  in 
honour  of  ttiis  goddcHS  w}iom  (she  had 
adopted  as  the  patr<»ness  of  lier  enterpiise, 
and  to  whom  she  owed  the  victory  f?iiined 
by  her  arm^j.  Hideyoslii,  wlien  despatch- 
ing  his  expedition  to  Korea  in  the  16th 
century,  caused  prayers  to  be  offered  up  at 
the  shrine  of  this  proddess.  I'rayers  to 
her  in  seasons  of  drousfht  or  o^  excessive 
rain  are  said  to  be  invariably  answered. 

J  Pestivrtl,  3rd  Aijril.    Annual  fuir,  23rd  to 

I  27th  September. 

A     2.  The  Niiiiobikl  Watcifiills  are 

about  20  min.  from  the  Settlement, 
past  the  Recreation  Ground.  Tlie 
path  first  reffches  the  Me-dakij  or 
'Female  Fall,'  43  ft.  high;  then 
j)as.sing  through  a  tea-house  and 
over  a  covered  bridge,  it  reaches 
other  tea-houses  which  command  a 
view  of  the  upper,  or  *  Male  Fall ' 
{Odakl),  82  ft.  high.  Troops  of 
large  monkeys  arc  sometimes  seen 
in  this  neighbourhood.  A  good 
view  of  Kobe  and  the  surrounding 
country  may  be  had  from  Sunago- 
yama,  a  detached  hill  near  the  fall. 
^here  is  a  tea-house  at  the  top. 

3.  SniYa-yaiiin.  This  spur  of  the 
range  behind  Kobe,  crowned  by  tea- 
houses  where  mineral  baths  may  be 
taken,  commands  an  extensive 
view  of  the  town  and  sea-shore.  It 
fras  here  that,  in  1874,  the  transit 


of  Venus  was  observed  by  a  party  of 
French  astronomers. 

4.  Mnya-san  is  the  name  of  one 
of  the  liighest  peaks   (2,490  ft.)    of 
the  range  behind  Kobe.      The  sum- 
mit is  about  2  hrs.  walk  from  Kobe^ 
return  1^  hr.     This  place  is  known 
to  foreigners  as  .the  Moo7i  Temple — 
a    purely   fanciful  designation,    as 
the  place   has  nothing  to  do  with. 
the  moon,  but  is  dedicated  to  Maya. 
Bunin,  the  mother  of  Buddha.     The 
temple  stands  on  a  platform  at  the 
top    of    a    stone    staircase,   about* 
400  ft.  below  the  top  of  the  moun- 
tain,  which   is  reached  by  passing 
through  a    door  to    the   1.  of   the 
chapel  in  the  rear,  before  ascending.. 
The  temple  contains  a  small  image 
of    Maya    Bunin,    one   of    a    pair 
made  by  order  of  Wu  Ti  of  the  Liang 
dynasty   (A.D.   502-529),   with    the 
object  of  diminishing  the  mortality 
of  women  in  child-birth,  which  was. 
very  great  during  his  reign.     It  was. 
obtained  by  Kobu  Daishi  during  his 
stay  in  China. 

A, 5.  Fiitatnbisati,  a  temple  dedi- 
cated to  Kobo  Daishi,  stands  on  a^ 
conical  hill  covered  with  trees- 
behind  the  first  i*ange  of  hills  to  the 
N.  of  Kobe.  It  is  accessible  either 
by  a  stiff  climb  of  1  hr.  through  & 
pass  properly  called  Kuruma-dani, 
but  known  to  tlic  foreign  residents. 
as  '  Hunter's  Ciap,'  at  the  foot  of 
which  is  a  small  spring  containing 
sulphur,  or  by  a  more  roundabout 
but  less  steep  ascent  entering  a  valley 
to  the  W.  of  Suwa-yama.  The  view 
from  the  top  repays  the  climb,  and 
the  outlook  to  the  N.  is  picturesque,, 
giving  a  bird's-eye  view  of  the  lake 
and  bare  weather-worn  hills  known 
to  foreigners  &s  Aden jWhich  locality 
the  prospect  somewhat  resembles. 
The  Japanese  name  is  Shari-yama. 
In  the  autumn,  the  colouring  of  the 
foliage  on  Futatabi  is  particularly 
fine.  Near  the  summit,  on  the 
r.  hand  going  up,  is  the  Kaine- 
ishif  a  rock  the  top  of  which  is 
roughly  fashioned  into  the  head  and 
fore-legs  of  a  tortoise  (kamc). 


WalJcs  ami  Excursions. 


281 


6.  An  agreeable  round  of  a  little 
•over  3  hrs.  may  be  made  by 
passing  Futatabi-san  on  the  W., 
descending  to  Aden,  and  taking  a 
path  along  the  W.  shore  of  the  lake, 
■which  leads  into  the  Arima  road 
near  Obu,  whence  the  pedestrian 
•can  return  to  Kobe  viA  Hyogo. 
-Jinrikishas  may  usually  be  procured 
:at  the  Obu-no-chaya,  a  tea-house  a 
little  way  up  the  Arima  road. 

7.  A  pleasant  walk  may  be  taken 
"by  following  up  the  waterfall  stream 
above  the  falls  ;  but  a  time  should 
"be  chosen  when  the  stream  is  not 
•over-full,  as  the  path  crosses  it 
some  twenty  times  by  means  of 
stepping-stones.  From  points  on 
this  path  the  ascent  may  be  made 
-of  Futatabi-san  on  the  W.,  and  of 
Iklaya-san  on  the  E. 

8.  A  track  following  the  summit 
•of  the  first  range  at  the  back  of 
Kobe  from  E.  to  W.  affords,  along 
its  entire  length,  a  fine  view  of  the 
•sea.  One  of  the  ways  down  near 
Suyama  passes  tlirough  the  Crema- 
tion Ground,  where  cremation  is 
•carried  on  in  a  way  more  curious 
than  agreeable  to  the  senses  of  sight 
tind  smell. 

9.  Zenshoji  or  Momijl-dera,  that 
is,  *  Maple  Temple,'  lies  some  dis- 
tance beyond  Hyogo.  Though  the 
walk  there  is  uninteresting,  the 
temple  itself  is  prettily  situated. 
Further  again  to  the  \V.,  in  the 
hills  behind  Takatori-yama  or,  '  Coal 
Hill,'  lies  Taisanjiy  a  large  collec- 
tion of  old  temple  buildings,  situated 
in  a  valley  surrounded  by  finely 
wooded  hills. 

10.  A  good  walk  may  be  taken  by 
following  the  road  from  Karasu- 
wara  on  the  outskirts  of  Hj'ogo, 
through  the  '  Horse-shoe  Valley '  to 
Obn.  Particular  notice  should  be 
taken  of  a  precipitous  rock  high 
up  the  hillside  on  the  1.  hand.  On 
its  face  the  Buddhist  invocation 
Namit  Amida  Butsit  has  been  cut 
in  gigantic  characters,  to  accom- 
plish which  the  person  who  carved 


them  must  have  been  suspended 
from  the  summit  by  a  rope. 

The  railway  now  affords  facilities 
for  making  a  number  of  more  dis- 
tant excursions.     Such  are  those  to 

11.  TaknraziikA  (*Takarazuka 
Hotel,  foreign  style),  1  hr.  by  jin- 
rikisha  from  Nishiuomiya  station. 
This  place  has  good  mineral  baths 
and  several  pretty  walks,  especially 
those  to  the  temples  of  Kojin-san* 
and  Nagahama. 

12  In  the  same  direction  is  Ka~ 
hiito-yama,  called  by  the  foreign  re- 
sidents Bismarck  Hill,  from  the  re- 
semblance of  the  four  trees  on  its 
summit  to  the  four  hairs  which  the 
great  Chancellor  is  said  to  have  on  his 
liead.  Curious  stone  images  and 
shrines  are  here  to  be  seen  perched 
on  apparently  inaccessible  pinnacles. 
The  climb,  easy  as  far  as  the  temple 
of  Hachiman,  is  almost  breakneck 
from  there  to  the  summit ;  but  the 
view  is  magnificent,  this  hill  being 
a  landmark  for  the  whole  country- 
side and  for  ships  navigating  up  the 
Kii  Channel.  From  the  bridge  at 
Nishinomiya  the  top  can  be  reached 
in  1^  hr. 

13.  Siiiiia,  Maiko,  and  Akaslii  are 

well-known  places  on  the  Sanyo 
Railway,  where  the  Kobe  residents 
often  hire  summer  lodgings.  The 
following  inns  may  be  recommend- 
ed:— Ho3^o-in  at  Suma;  Kame-ya 
at  Maiko;  and  Hashimoto-ya  at 
Akashi.  At  Akashi,  which  is  a 
pleasant  spot  for  picnics,  there  is 
a  fine  temple  in  honour  of  the 
ancient  poet  Kaki-no-moto-no-Hito- 
maro.  Akashi  is  also  remarkable 
as  the  place  recently  selected  as  the 
time  meridian  for  all  Japan. 

From  the  time  of  Hitomaro  early  in  the 
8tli  century  onward,  the  Japanese  poets 
have  never  tired  of  sin  sing'  the  beauties  of 
this  pine-clad  coast.  Here  also  is  laid  the 
scene  of  some  of  the  most  celebrated  chap- 
ters of  the  Genji  Monogatariy  the  greatest 
of  the  classical  romances,  composed  cArcn 
A.D.  1000.  This  coast  has  likewise  been 
the  scene  of  stirring  historical  events, 
more  particularly  of  a  great  battle  fought 
in  the  year  1184  between  the  armies  of  the 
rival  clans  of  Taira  and  Minamoto,  -who 


282 


Boiite  41. — Kobe  and  Xeighbourhood. 


were  then  »till  strnggrling  for  ix)1itical 
supremacy,  though  the  final  triumph  of  the 
Mioamoto  in  tne  person  of  Yoritoino  was 
not  far  off.  Tlie  battle  was  fought  close 
to  the  W.  end  of  Suma  in  a  ralley  called 
Ichi-no-tani,  nnd  whs  the  occasion  of  au 
incident  famous  in  history  and  song  as  the 
'Death  of  Atsumori.'  (See  Kumagui  Nao- 
zanif,  p.  42.) 

14.  Hirano.  This  place,  suitable 
for  picnics,  is  situated  10  m.  north 
of  Kanzaki  Station  on  the  Tokai- 
do  Bail  way.  A  jinrikisha  road 
leads  to  it,  passing  about  half-way 
a  very  pretty  gorge  through  which 
dashes  a  stream  called  Tsuzumi-ga- 
taki.  The  mineral  spring  of  Hirano 
is  the  Apollinaris  of  Japan.  Visi- 
tors will  be  shown  over  the  establish- 
ment by  the  manager. 

15.  Mino.  This  pjace  is  best 
Teached  by  train  to  Osaka,  whence 
it  is  a  2  hrs.  jinrikisha  ride.  The 
jinrikishas  must  be  left  at  the  en- 
trance of  the  vill.  Shortly  beyond, 
the  path  enters  a  beautiful  glen 
some  2  m.  in  length,  terminated 
abruptly  by  a  tall  cliff  over  which 
falls  a  cascade  70  ft.  high.  The 
best  time  to  visit  Mino  is  in  Novem- 
ber, when  the  maple-trees  glow 
vith  an  almost  incredible  blaze  of 
colours.  It  is  also  very  pretty  in 
April,  when  the  cherry-trees  are  in 
blossom.  Some  way  up  the  glen, 
on  the  r.,  is  a  temple  with  a  little 
pavilion  overlooking  the  stream — a 
favourite  spot  for  picnics. 

16.  Arinia  (Innsj  Sugimoto,  Masu- 
da,  and  Kiyomizu,  all  with  Euro- 
pean food  and  beds),  the  favourite 
hill  station  and  summer  resort  of 
the  Kobe  residents,  lies  9  m.  from 
Kobe  as  the  crow  flies,  and  is  1,400  ft. 
above  sea  level.  The  air  is  cool,  the 
scenery  pretty  enough  though  not 
remarkable,, and  there  are  pleasant 
rambles  to  be  made  in  the  vicinity. 
The  arrangements  at  the  mineral 
springs  are  not  specially  adapted 
for  foreign  visitors;  but  all  the  inns 
have  an  abundance  of  beautifully 
clear,  cold  water.  Arima  may  be 
most  easily  reached  by  taking  the 
train  to  Sumiyoshi,  15min.,  and  then 
walking  over  the  Kokko-san  Pass, 


I  a  distance  of  8  m.  for  which  ^ 
hrs.  must  be  allowed.  Persons  in- 
capable of  walking  so  far  can  hire 
chairs  at  Sumiyoshi  station,  and  get 
carried  up  in  4  hrs.  The  pass,  which 
is  about  two-thirds  of  the  way  to- 
Arima,  lies  3,000  ft.  above  the  sea. 
From  the  top  of  liokko-san  itself^ 
200  ft.  higher,  a  fine  view  may  be 
obtained. 

16.  It  is  easy  from  Kobe  to  visit 
the  large  and  interesting  Island  of 
Awaji,  which  forms  the  subject- 
matter  of  Boute  49,  and  to  start 
on  the  tour  down  the  Inland  Sea 
sketched  out  in  Route  50. 

Hyogo. 

Hyogo  (Inn^  Tokiwa)  adjoins. 
Kobe  on  the  S.W.  It  begins  just 
beyond  the  Minato-gawa,  which  is- 
easily  distinguished  by  the  tall  pine- 
trees  lining  its  banks.  The  bed  of 
this  river,  like  many  others  along 
this  coast,  is  raised  to  a  consid> 
erable  height  above  the  surround- 
ing country,  owing  to  the  masses  of 
sand  and  pebbles  continually  swept 
down  from  the  neighbouring  hills^ 
It  is  generally  dry,  except  im- 
mediately after  heavy  rain.  The 
banks  have  been  neatly  laid  out  so 
as  to  form  a  public  walk,  which 
leads  to  the  Shinto  temple  erected 
since  the  Kestoration  of  1868  to 
the  memory  of  the  loyal  warrior 
Kusunoki  ^Masashige. — The  Bud- 
dhist temple  of  ShijiJxdji,  possesses  a 
large  bronze  Buddha  which  is  worth 
a  ^'isit.  In  the  same  locality  is  a 
monument  to  Kiyomori,  consisting; 
of  a  pagoda-shaped  pillar  20  ft. 
high.  The  temple  of  Seifukuji  will 
be  familiar  by  name  to  all  admirers- 
oi  Mitford's  *  Tales  of  Old  Japan,- 
as  the  scene  of  the  Jmrakiri  which 
he  witnessed  and  so  graphically 
describes.  More  modern,  having 
been  only  completed  in  1891,  is  the 
Daibutsu  at  the  temple  of  Nd/ukuji. 
This  large  image  of  Buddha  is  43  ft. 
high,  and  85  ft.  round  the  waist ;  the 
length  of  the  face  is  8.^  ft.,  the  eye 
3  ft.,  the  ear  6  ft.,  the  nose  3}  ft.» 


Boute  42, — OsaJsa  and  Neighbourhood. 


2da 


the  mouth  2}  ft.,  the  diameter  of 
the  lap  25  ft.,  and  the  circumference 
of  the  thumb  2  ft. 

Hydgo  first  rose  into  prominence  in  the 
latter  part  of  the  12th  ceutoiy,  when  Kiyo- 
mori  removed  the  capital  from  KyOto  to 
Fukuwara  in  the  immediate  vicinity.  This 
change  of  capital  only  lasted  six  months — 
from  the  26th  June,  1180,  to  the  20th 
December  of  the  same  year;  but  Kiyo- 
mori's  partiality  for  the  place  left  perma- 
nent effects,  he  having  diverted  the  bed  of 
the  Minato-gawa  to  its  present  coarse  so  aa 
to  prevent  it  from  flooding  the  town,  and 
having  constructed  the  artificial  island 
of  Tsakijima  virhich  subsists  to  this  day. 
The  stuuy  bed  of  the  Minato-gawa  was 
the  scene,  in  A.D.  1336,  of  a  bloody  battle 
between  tiie  partisans  of  thb  rightful  Km- 
peror  Go-Daigo,  and  Takauji,  founder 
of  the  Aflhikaga  line  of  Shoguus.  In  this 
battle  the  famous  loyal  warriors  Nitta 
Toshisada  and  Kusunoki  Masashige  suf- 
fered a  crushing  defeat,  after  which  Masa- 
shige, rather  than  fly,  committed  harakiri. 


ROUTE  42. 
Osaka  and  Neighbourhood. 

1.  THE  city:  the  mint,  tenjin 
sama,  kozu-no-miya,  ikudama-no- 
jinja,  tennoji,  dotombobi,  hon- 
gwanji  temples.  2.  neighbour- 
hood :  sumiyoshi  and  sakai. 

1. — The  City  of  Osaka. 

Osaka,  also  pronounced  Ozaka, 
is  reached  by  the  Tokaido  Railway 
from  Kobe  in  a  little  over  1  hr.,  and 
from  Kyoto  in  1^  hr. 

Hotel. — Jiutei,  in  Nakanoshima, 
10  min.  from  the  Tokaido  Railway 
station. 

Japanese  Inn. — Tokiwa. 

Japanese  Restaurant.  —  Soikwan- 
ro. 

Post  and  Telegraph  Offices. — At 
the  Umeda  Railway  station,  at 
Shinsai-bashi,  at  Korai-bashi,  and 
in  the  Foreign  Settlement. 

Theatres. — In  the  Dotombori. 

Curio  Dealers. — Yamanaka,  Ogu- 
ni,  and  others  at  Korai-bashi. 


Silk  Mercers. — Mitsui,  at  Korai- 
bashi;  Daimaru,  in  the  Shinsai- 
bashi-suji ;  and  Obashi-ya  in  Mido- 
suji. 

There  are  many  good  shops 
of  various  kinds  in  the  Shinsai- 
bashi-suji.  The  bazaars  (kwankdba) 
deserve  a  visit.  The  best  are  the 
Furitsu  Hakiibtitsti-jo  between 
Umeda  Station  and  Tennoji,  the 
Shohin  Mihon  Chinretsu-jb  in  D6- 
jima,  and  the  Shbgyb  Club  at 
Imamiya. 

For  Steam  Communication  to 
Awaji  and  Inland  Sea  ports,  see 
Routes  49  and  50. 

Eailway  Stations.  —  There  are 
three,  viz.,  one  at  Umeda  for  the 
Tokaido,  one  in  Mitiatockb  for  Nara, 
and  one  at  Namba  for  Sumiyoshi 
and  Sakai.  Each  of  these  stations 
is  about  20  min.  by  jinrikisha  from 
the  others. 

Hintoryand  Topography. — This  wealthy 
coxmnercial  city,  situated  at  the  mouth  of 
the  Yodogawa,  covers  an  area  of  nearly  S 
square  miles.  The  earliest  use  of  the  name 
Osaka  occurs  in  a  document  dating  from 
the  end  of  the  15th  century,  applied  to  part 
of  the  township  of  Ikudama.  The  ancient 
name  of  the  city,  still  used  in  poetry,  was 
yaniwa,  said  to  be  a  corruption  of  nami 
haya  *  wave-swift,'  or  nami  kana  *  wave- 
flowers,'  l)ecause  the  fleet  of  Jimmu  Tenn5 
here  encountered  a  boisterous  sea  on  its 
arrival  from  Hyaga.  In  1583  Hideyoshi 
resolved  to  make  Osaka  the  seat  of  his 
power,  judging  that  he  could  from  this 
position  most  easily  dominate  the  Dai- 
myos  of  the  South  and  West.  He  there- 
fore ordered  a  Castle  to  be  constructed. 
Labourers  were  drawn  from  all  parts  of 
the  country  (except  the  domain  of  leyasu), 
and  the  work  was  completed  in  two  years. 
The  palace  thus  raised  within  the  castle 
was  probably  the  grandest  building  of 
which  Japan  ever  boasted.  It  survived  the 
taking  of  the  castle  by  leyasu  in  1615; 
and  in  1867  and  1868  the  members  of  the 
foreign  legations  were  received  within  its 
walls  by  the  last  of  the  Tokugawa  Sho- 
guns.  Will  Adams,  in  his  quaint  style, 
gives  a  good  idea  of  the  splendour  of  the 
palace  and  the  extent  of  the  city  in  his 
day.    He  says :  *  I  was  carried  in  one  of 

*  the  King's  gallies  to  the  court  at  Omca, 

*  where  the  King  lay  about  eightie  leagues 

*  from  the  place  where  the  shippe  was. 

*  The  twelfth  of  May  1600.  I  came  to  the 

*  great  King's  citie  who  caused  me  to  be 

*  brought  into  the  court,  beeing  a  wonder- 

*  full  costly  house  gfuilded  with  gold  in 

*  abundance.     .     .     .     We  found  Ozaea 

*  to  be  a  very  great  towne,  as  great  as 


284 


Route  42, — Osaica  and  Neighbourhood. 


*  London  •within  the  vralls,.  with   many 
••  faire  timl)er  bridges  of  a  great  height, 

*  Beruing  to  pass  ouer  a  riuer  there  as 

*  wide  as  the  Thamen  at  London.    Some 

*  faire  houses  we   found   there    but  not 

*  many.    It  is  one  of  the  chiefe  sea-ports 

*  of  all  lapan ;  hauing  a  castle  in  it,  mar- 

*  ucUous    large    and    strong,    with   very 

*  deepe  trenches  about  it,  and  many  draw 

*  bridges,   with  gates  i)lated  with  yron. 

*  The  castle  is  built  all  of  free-stone,  with 

*  >)ulwarks  and  battlements,  with  loope 

*  holes  for  smal  shot  and  an-owes,  and 

*  diners  passages  for  to  cast  stones  vpon 

*  the  assaylants.    The  walls  are  at  the 

*  least  sixe  or  seuen  yards  thicke,  all  (as  I 

*  said)  of  free-fttoue,  without  any  filling  in 

*  the  inward  part  with  trumpery,  as  they 

*  reported  vnto  me.    The  stones  are  great, 

*  of  an  excellent  quarry,  and  are  cut  so 

*  exactly  to  fit  the  place  where  they  are 

*  laid,  that  no  morter  is  used,  but  onely 

*  earth   cast   betweene    to   fill   vp   voyd 

*  creuises  if  any  ]>e.'  Excluding  the 
])alace,  this  remains  an  excellent  descrip- 
tion of  the  place  as  it  exists  to-day.  The 
huge  stones  forming  the  walls  of  the 
principal  gate  of  the  castle  attest  the 
magnificent  design  of  its  founder.  f>ut- 
side  the  present  fortress  ran  a  second  line 
of  moat  and  parapet,  the  destruction  of 
which  was  made  a  condition  of  peace  by 
leyasu  after  the  first  siege  of  1614.  The 
moat  varied  in  width  from  80  yds.  to  120 
yds.,  and  in  depth  from  12  ft.  to  2J(  ft.;  but 
it  was  completely  effaced  in  about  three 
weeks*  time.  On  the  2nd  Feb.,  1868,  the 
bnildings  within  the  castle  were  set  on  fire 
by  a  train  laid  by  the  Tokugawa  party  be- 
fore their  final  retreat,  and  were  comple- 
tely destroyed  in  a  few  hours.  The 
fortifications  now  serve  as  the  head- 
i^uarters  of  the  Osaka  Military  District, 
and  permission  to  inspect  them  may 
generally  l)e  obtained  by  presenting  a 
visiting  card  at  the  principal  entrance. 
The  view  from  the  top  of  the  platform,  on 
which  stoo<l  the  donjon  {fen»hu)f  is  very 
fine.  There  is  a  remarkaj)le  well  here 
called  the  Kimmei'inii,  lit.  *  Famous  Golden 
Water,'  which  furnished  a  sufiicicnt  sup- , 
ply  for  the  garrison  in  time  of  siege. 

The  city  of  Osaka  lies  upon  the  banks  of 
the  Yodogawa,  the  river  draining  Lake 
Biwa.  Nakanoshima,  an  island  in  the 
■centre  of  the  stream,  divides  the  river 
into  two  courses  of  alx)ut  equal  width. 
The  scene  here  on  summer  evenings  is  of 
the  gayest  and  prettiest  description. 
Hundreds  of  lK)ats  float  lazily  upon  the 
water,  filled  with  citizens,  who  resort 
thither  to  enjoy  the  cool  river  breezes, 
while  itinerant  musicians,  vendors  of 
refreshments  and  fireworks,  etc.,  ply 
amongst  the  merry  throng  doing  a  thri- 
ving business.  ,The  city  is  also  intersected 
))y  numereus  canals,  which  necessitate  a 
great  number  of  bridges  and  give  it  an 
appearance  which  may  remind  the  tra- 
veller of  Holland.  Osaka  always  suffers 
to  a  greater  degree  than  other  cities  in 


the  Empire  from  epidemics,  prof)ably  due 
to  contamination  carried  by  so  much  water 
communication.    jThe  three  great  bridges 
across   the   Yodogawa   are  the  Temma- 
bashi,  the  Tenjin-bashi  and  the  Naniwa^- 
Imshi.    The  principal  thoroughfare  is  th.e 
Shinsai-bashi-suji,  which  its  fine  shops, 
theatres,    and    bustling    aspect    renaer 
one  of  the.most  interesting  streets,  nofe 
only  in  Osaka,  but  in  Japan.    In  summei* 
this  street  derives  quite  an  Oriental  ap- 
pearance  from    the    curtains    stretchetl 
across  it  to  keep  out  the  sun,  and  fmnai 
the  bright  hues  of  many  of  the  aiticles  of 
merchandise. 

The  Foreign  Settlement  is  situated  at 
Kawaguchi,  at  the  junction  of  two 
streams.  Close  by  are  the  Custom  Houses, 
and  the  wharves  for  the  steamers  that 
ply  between  Osaka  and  Kdl)e,  Shikokn, 
and  the  ports  of  the  Inland  Sea.  Osaka, 
for  all  its  bustle  and  prosperity,  ha«  not 
fulfilled  the  expectations  formed  of  it  as  a 
centre  of  foreign  trade.  The  affairs  of  the 
foreign  municipality  are  managed  by  a 
committee  constituted  in  the  same  way  as 
at  Kobe. 

The  following  are  the  chief  places 
of  interest,  beginning  with  those 
nearest  to  the  Tokaido  Railway  sta- 
tion, and  making  the  round  of  the 
city.  One  day  is  suflftoient  for  the 
whole. 

The  Mint  {Zdhei-7cyoku)t  about 
20  min.  in  jinrikisha  from  the  sta- 
tion, is  well-worth  a  visit.  This 
establishment  was  organised  in  1871, 
and  placed  under  Major  T.  W. 
Kinder,  formerly  of  the  Hongkong 
Mint,  with  a  staff  of  British 
officials.  The  management  has  been 
entirely  Japanese  since  1889.  The 
ISIint  now  produces  almost  exclu- 
sively silver  and  copper  coins. 
The  work  was  first  started  with 
machinery  purchased  from  the 
Hongkong  Government  after  the 
Mint  in  that  colony  had  been  closed ; 
but  great  additions  have  since  been 
made.  Besides  the  Mint  proper, 
there  are  sulphuric  acid  works  and 
a  refinery. 

Tei^in  Sama,  on  the  N.  side  of  the 
river,  not  far  from  the  Tenjin-bashi, 
is  a  popular  temple  dedicated  to  Suga- 
wara-no-Michizane,  and  founded  in 
the  10th  century.  The  principal 
festival  is  held  on  the  25th  June. 
The  temple  contains  some  good 
carvings,  and  the  ex-voto  sheds 
several  pictures  of  merit.    Crossing 


Tennojl  and  other  Temples, 


285 


"tlie    river  by  the  Tenjin-bashi  and 
proceeding  S.  for  about  1  mile,  we . 
recbch 

Kozn-iiO'iiiiya,  on  the  hill  to  the 

1.,  -which  commands  a  fine  view  W. 

over  the  town  towards  the  Straits  of 

Atashi.    This  temple  is  dedicated  to 

the   Emperor  Nintoku,  b.  278  A.D. 

according  to  the  received  chronology. 

In  the  florist's  garden  (Hyak-kwa- 

-en)  at  the  foot  of  the  hill,  the  shows 

of  peonies  at  the  latter  end  of  April, 

.and  of  chrysanthemmns  about  the 

middle  of  November,    are  amongst 

the     finest    in  Japan. 

The  Ikiidaina  no  Jinja,  a  little 
further  S.  up  a  flight  of  steps,  is  de- 
•dicated  to  the  patron  deities  of  the 
city,  and  is  fabled  to  hAve  been 
founded  by  Jimmu  Tenno  on  the 
spot  where  the  castle  now  stands. 
Hideyoshi  removed  the  temple  to 
its  present  site  about  the  year  1596. 
The  view  from  the  back  Is  the 
same  as  from  Kozu-no-miya.  About 
a  mile  further  S.  stands  the  cele- 
brated Buddhist  temple  of 

Tennoji,  which  occupies  an  im- 
mense extent  of  ground  on  the  S.E.  of 
the  city.  It  was  founded  by  the  cele-  I 
brated  Shotoku  Taishi  about  A.D. 
600,  but  has  frequently  fallen  into 
ruin,  and  been  renovated  at  the 
expense  of  either  the  Mikados  or  the 
Shoguns.  On  entering  the  great  south 
gate,  we  find  ourselves  in  a  large 
open  space,  the  centre  of  which  is 
occupied  by  a  square  colonnade, 
open  on  the  inner  side.  On  the  r. 
is  a  chapel  called  Taislii-dd,  dedica- 
ted to  Shotoku  Taishi.  It  is  a  build- 
ing of  unpainted  wood,  roofed  with 
thick  shingles.  Opposite  to  this  is 
.  the  Btdo  no  kane^  or  *  Bell  of  Lead- 
ing,' which  is  rung  in  order  that 
the  Saint-Prince  may  lead  the 
•dead  into-  Paradise.  Dolls,  toys, 
and  children's  clothing  are  offered 
up  before  it.  Near  the  tortoise 
pond  to  the  r.,  is  a  building 
containing  a  stone  chamber  with 
water  pourinjg  into  it  from  the 
mouth  of  a  stone  tortoise.  The 
names  of  those  who  have  recently 
departed  this   life  are  written  on 


slips  of  thin  bamboo,  and  held  at  the 
end  of  a  long  stick  in  the  sacred 
stream,  which  also  carries  petitions 
to  Shotoku  Taishi  on  behalf  of  the 
souls  of  the  dead. 

From  the  gallery  at  the  top  of  the 
Igfty  five-storied  pagoda,  the  whole 
city  and  surrounding  country  can 
be  seen.  The  Koncloy  or  Golden 
Hall,  is  abput  54  ft.  by  48  ft.,  and 
the  highly  decorated  shrine  within 
is  dedicated  to  the  Nyo-i;rin  Kwan- 
non.  The  image,  which  is  of  gilt  cop- 
per, is  said  to  have  been  the  first 
Buddhist  image  ever  brought  to 
Japan  from  Korea;  but  that 
honour  is  also  claimed  by  the  triple 
image  of  Amida,  Kwannon,  and 
Daiseishi  at  Zenkoji  in  Shinshn. 
Various  treasures  dating  from  the 
7th  and  8th  centuries  are  preserved 
at  Tenno- ji. 

Returning  by  the  same  streets  to 
the  entrance  of  K6zu-no-Miya,  and 
going  W.,  we  soon  find  ourselves  by 
the  side  of  the  Dobombori  canal,  in 
a  street  consisting  chiefly  of  the-  • 
atres,  variety  shows,  and  restaurants. 
This  part  of  Osaka  is  cspecisJly 
worth  seeing  in  the  evening.  Turn- 
ing to  the  r.  at  the  Ebisu-bashi,.we 
cross  into  the  Shinsai-bashi-suji, 
about  half-way  down  which,  a 
little  to  the  1.,  stand  the  two 
temples  of  the  Hongwanji  sect 
of  Buddhists.  The  first  is  the 
Hi^nslii  Hongwanji,  built  about 
the  year  1615.  It  contains  some 
fine  massive  open-work  caiTings. 
The  Nislii  Hongwanji  is  a  few 
hundred  yards  further  north  in  the 
same  street.  Its  gateway  is  a 
beautiful  example  of  the  application 
of  tlie  chrysanthemum  in  tracery 
and  open-work  carving.  In  the 
central  shrine  is  a  statue  of  Amida 
3  ft.  6  in.  high,  ^vith  Shinran  Sho- 
nin  on  his  1.,  in  a  richly  carved  and 
gilded  shrine. 

2. — Neighbourhood  of  Dsaka. 

The  principal  places  of  interest  in 
the  immediate  neighbourhood  of 
Osaka  are  Sumiyoshi  and  Sakai, 
both  reached  by  the  Hankai  Bail- 


286 


Boiite  42, — Osaka  and  Neif/hboiirhood» 


way.  Trains  run 'from  either  end 
at  intervals  of  40  min.  during  the 
day. 

Hankai  Railway. 


£p  « 

2iiii. 

e\ 

Names 
of 

Stations. 

Remarks. 

OSAKA  (Namba). 
Tenga-jaya. 
Sumiyoslii 

(Alight  for 
I     temi)le. 

RAKAI. 

The  Jarge  embankment  seen  be- 
tween Osaka  and  Tenga-jaya  is  that 
of  the  Nara  Bailway, 

Tenga-jaya  is  so  called  because 
Hideyoshi,  when  lord  of  the  Em- 
pire, had  a  villa  there,  which  is 
still  maintained  for  the  sake  of  its 
historical  associations.  It  stands  in 
a  small  grove  visible  to  the  1.  from 
the  carriage  windows.  The  name 
of  this  place  is  familiar  to  all 
Japanese  theatre-goers,  as  the  scene 
of  a  famous  vendetta  which  is  often 
represented  on  the  boards..  The  en- 
trance to  the  temple  of  Sumiyoshi 
is  passed  just  before  reaching  the 
station  of  that  name. 

The  Temple  of  Sumiyoslii,  de- 
dicated to  the  three  gods  of  the  sea 
who,  according  to  the  legend  in 
the  NiJwngi  assisted  the  Empress 
Jingo  in  her  expedition  to  Korea,  is 
held  in  high  veneration  by  the  lower 
classes  of  6saka,  great  crowds  flock- 
ing to  it  on  festival  days  (every 
u-tw-liiy  or  *  day  of  the  hare ').  Out- 
side are  innumerable  stone  lanterns 
presented  as  ex-votos.  In  the  pond 
over  which  passes  a  semi-circular 
bridge,  live  a  number  of  tortoises 
with  water-weed  growing  on  their 
hacks.  These  are  popularly  known  as 
Tnino-gainey  from  viino  the  grass-coat 
worn  by  peasants  and  boatmen  in 
rainy  weather,  and  kamCj  a  tortoise. 
The  Yamato-gawa  is  crossed  near 
its  mouth  before  entering 

Sakni  (Inns,  Bokai-rO,  Satsuma- 


ya),  a  large  manjufacturing  centre  > 
Its  fine  beach  lined  with  tea-liouses- 
attracts  many  visitors  from  Osaka, 
during  the  summer  months.  Tlio 
lofty  chimneys  are  those  of  bricks 
coke,  and  silk  factories. 

Sakai  takes  its  name  from  its  position 
close  to  the  boundary  of  the  three  pro- 
vinces of   Iznmi,  Settsu,    and    Kawach  i, 
having    been  originally  called  Sakui-no- 
tfiu,  that  is,  •  Boundary  Harbour.*     Until 
the  end  of  the  14th  century,  when  a  for- 
tress was  built  here  by  Yamana  Ujikiyo, 
it  was  a  mere  village.    The  manufactur©- 
of     hard-ware,    carpets,     and   cosmetic 
powder    are    the    principal     industries. 
Konishi  Tsu-no-kami,  one  of  Hideyoslii'i* 
most  distingviished  officers  and  an  early- 
convert  to  Christianity,  was  bom  in  thia- 
town,  where  his  forefathers  for  several 
generations  had  carried  on  the  business 
of  druggists.    Another  equally  celebrated 
native  of  Sakai  was  Sen-no-RikyU,  a  great 
favourite  with  Hideyoshi,  and  often  rer 
garded  as  the  father  of  the  tea-drinking- 
ceremonial  {cha-no-i/n).    In  the  16th  cen- 
tury Sakai  wns  one  of  the  most  flourishing^ 
of  the  Roman  Catholic  mission  stations, 
and  is  frequently  mentione<l  by  the  Jesuits 
and  other  early  writers.    Will  Adams  thus- 
describea  it :    *  Right  over  against  Ozactt, 
on  the  other  side  of  the  riuer,  lyeth  an- 
other great  Towne  called  Saceif,  but  not  so- 
bigge  as  Ozacuy  yet  is  it  a  towne  of  great 
trade  for  all  the  Hands  thereabout.* 

At  the  Monastery  of  Myokokuji, 
belonging  to  the  Nichiren  sect,  are 
some  fine  specimens  of  the  sotetsit 
(Cycas  revoluta)y  often  erroneously 
called  the  sago-palm.  They  were 
planted  here  by  Miyoshi  Jikyu 
about  the  middle  of  the  16th 
century.  leyasu  carried  the  best 
away  to  his  own  residence  in  1582, 
but  finding  that  it  refused  to 
flourish  there,  restored  it  to  its 
home.  It  is  popularly  believed  that 
this  plant,  the  name  of  which 
means  *  revival  by  iron,'  is  much 
benefited  by  that  metal,  and  the 
earth  round  its  roots  is  covered 
with  iron  coins  thrown,  there  by 
visitors.  The  warm  climate  of  Sakai 
seems  particularly  favourable  to  the 
sotetsUf  which  is  not  indigenous  to 
Japan. 

In  the  front  court  of  this  temple  are 
buried  eleven  warriors  of  the  Tosa  claa 
who  were  condemned  to  disembowel  them- 
selves for  having  shot  down  the  same 
number  of  unarmed  French  sailors  in  the 
spring  of  1868.    It  must  b^  remembered 


© 


llotUe  43. — Kyoto. 


28T 


ibat  tLia  form  of  capital  punishment, 
barbarous  as  it  may  seem  to  Kurt)peans, 
fras  at  that  time  recogniised  as  a  privilege 
of  the  mmurai  class,  auil  preferred  by  them 
to  simple  decapitation. 

The  sanctum  in  the  main  building 
is  handsome.  On  the  S.E .  of  the  town 
is  the  Burial'inound  (misasagi)  of 
Nintoku  Tennoj  a  double  tumulus. 
The  northern  summit  is  84  ft.,  the 
southern  100  ft.  high,  and  the  cir- 
cuit of  the  base  measures  1,526 
yds.  It  is  surrounded  by  a  double 
moat,  and  in  the  immediate  neigh- 
bourhood are  nine  smaller  tumuli. 


ROUTE  43. 

Kyoto. 

SlfVIBOXS :       IWASHIMIZU,     Atago- 

YAMA,  Rapids  op  the  Katsura- 
OAWA,  Uji. 

Kyoto, 'also  called  Siiikyo. 

Hotels. — *  Kyoto  Hotel,  also  called 
Tokiwa,  in  Kawara-machi ;  * Yaami, 
line  view ;  Nakamura-3'a,  also  called 
Kiken-jaya. 

Japanese  Inns. — Ikesho,  Kashi- 
wa-tei,  in  Kiyamachi;  Chakyii, 
near  E.  end  of  SanjO  Bridge. 

Japanese  Restatirants. — Takemu- 
la,  Hachishin. 

Religious  Services. — Presbyterian , 
every  Sunday  morning  in  the  li- 
brary of  the  Doshisha ;  Koman  Ca- 
tholic Church,  close  to  the  Kyoto 
Hotel. 

Tficatres  and  other  places  of 
amusement,  in  bhiu  Kydgoku ;  two 
theatres'in  Shi  jo  Kawa-Higashi. 

Telegraph  and  Post  Office,  in  San- 
jo-dori  Higashi-no-Toin. 

Kyoto  is  noted  for  its  pottery  and 
porcelain,  its  embroideries,  cut  vel- 
vets, and  brocades,  its  bronzes,  and 
its  cloisonmfs.  The  following  shops 
may  be  recommended :  — 

Pottery  and  Porcelain. — Kinko- 
zan,  at  Awata,  where  manufacture 
on  a  large  scale  for  export  is  carried 


on ;  Nishida,  at  Gojo-zaka.    There- 
are  many  other  manufacturers  and 
dealers  in  Kiyomizu  and  at  Gojo- 
zaka,  but  they  work  mostly  on  & 
^all  scale. 
m^ Embroidery,  Velvets,  andMercei^j^ 
z^— Takashima-ya,Orimqno-GwaislMi,''' 
^Nishimura,  Dai-maru,  Ono  (in  Karar 
su-maru  Shichijo). 

Bronze,  Cloisonne,  and  other  Metal- 
Work. — Shojodo  (Jomi),  in  Tera- 
machi  Shijo-sagaru ;  Kanaj'a  Go- 
rosa;  ^^iABlika^va,  at  Shirakawa- 
bashi  {cloisonne  only). 

Curios  (especial  bronze,  cloisonne,. 
and  porcelain) .  —  Boeki-Gwaisha,. 
Kyiikyodo,  Takada,  and  Hayashi, 
at  Furumon-zen ;  Ikeda,  at  Shiin-  . 
monzen.  The  street  called  Manjuji- 
dori  is  almost  entirely  occupied 
by  curio-dealers  of  the  more  old- 
fashioned  sort. 

Lacquer. — Nishimura,  in  Tera- 
machi. 

Bamboo-Work. — Wada,  in  Kiya- 
machi. 

Fans  and  Toys. — Nishida,  at  Higa- 
shi-no-Toin Shichi-jo ;  Misaki  iu 
Shichi-jo-dori  Yanagi-no-Baba. 

The  Mikado's  Palaces  (Gosho 
and  Nijd  no  Riki/u),  together  with 
th6  Imperial  villas  (Katstira  no 
Rikyu  and"  Shugaku-in),  are  un- 
fortunately no  longer  open  to  the 
general  public.  Permits  can  be  ob- 
tained only  by  visitors  of  distinc- 
tion, and  ty  those  bearing  personal 
recommendations  to  the  Minister 
representing  their  countr}-.  The 
same  permit  admits  to  all  four,  and 
none  who  are  so  favoured  should 
omit  to  make  use  of  the  privilege, 
at  least  to  the  extent  of  visiting  the 
two  Palaces.  Kyoto's  other  greatest 
sights  are  the  San-ju-san-g»in-du, 
Nishi  Hongwanji,  Kiyomizu,  Gion» 
and  Chion-in  temples,  in  addition 
to  >yliich  at  least  one  of  the  cele- 
brated landscape  gardens  —  say 
Kinkakuji  or  Ginkakuji — should  ba 
visited,  as  tlicy  are  among  the  most 
characteristic  products  of  Japanese 
estheticism.  The  best  general  view 
of  Kyoto  is  to  be  obtained  from  a 
hill   called    Shogun-zuka    close    to 


r288 


Route  43, — Kyoto. 


lilaruyama  on  tlie  E.  side  of  the 
city,  1^  hr.  excursion  from  the 
Kyoto  Hotel.  IMaruyama  itself, 
Kiyomizu-dera,  and  the  Yasaka 
Pagoda  also  afford  good  general 
views. 

No  one  visiting  KySto  at  the 
proper  season  should  fail  to  see  the 
Miyako-odot'iy  a  kind  of  ballet  given 
every  evening  from  5  to  11  o'clock 
at  Hcmaini-kdjij  near  the  Gion-za 
Theatre,  entrance  50  sc?i,  1st  class. 
The  performances  generally  begin 
in  mid- April,  and  last  till  early  in 
June.  Furthermore,  no  one  having 
money  in  his  purse  should  fail  to 
visit  the  shops,  which  are  perhaps 
the  most  attractive  in  Japan. 

Though  a  superficial  acquaintance 
with  Kyoto  may  be  gained  in  a  couple 
•of  days,  at  least  a  week  is  necessary 
to  form  an  adequate  idea  of  its  mani- 
fold beauties.  Owing  to  the  gradual 
shrinking  of  the  city  in  modern  times, 
many  of  the  best  sights  are  some 
distance  away  in  the  country  and 
much  time  is  spent  in  going  from  one 
to  another  by  jinrikisha.  The  follow- 
ing is  offered  as  a  sketch  of  the 
order  in  which  the  various  sights  of 
Kyoto  may  best  be  visited.  Care- 
ful sightseers  will  scarcely  be  able 
to  see  all  that  we  have  crowded  into 
one  day  for  the  guidance  of  such  as 
are  pressed  for  time ;  but  they  can 
resume  next  day  at  the  point  where 
they  left  off,  as  the  order  follows  re- 
gularly round  the  points  of  the 
compass,  beginning  with  the  north 
central  portion  of  the  city : — 

1st  Day. — The  Mikado's  Palace, 
— even  a  passing  glance  at  the 
exterior  is  better  than  nothing — 
Kitano  Tenjin,  Hirano  Jinja,  Dai- 
tokuji,  the  Shinto  shrine  of  Ota 
Nobunaga,  Kinkakuji,  Toji-in,  Omu- 
ro  Goslio  (if  rebuilt  and  open  to  the 
public,  which  is  doubtful,  as  it  now 
ranks  among  the  Imperial  Palaces), 
Uzumasa,  Seiryuji,  Arashi-yama. 

2nd  Day.— The  NijO  Palace  (the 
exterior  in  any  case),  Katsura-no- 
Rikyii,  Toji,  the  Inari  temple  at 
Fushimi,  Tofukuji,  San-ju-san-gen- 
do,  Daibutsu. 


3rd  Day. — Kenninji,  Nishi  Otani, 
Kiyomizu-dera,  the  Yasaka  Pagoda, 
Kodaiji,  Shdgun-zuka,  Maruyama, 
Higashi  Otani,  Gion,  Chion-in,  tlie 
Awata  Palace. 

4th  J)ay.  —  Xanzenji,  Eikwando, 
Kurodani,  Shinny odo,  the  temple 
of  Yoshida,  Ginkakuji,  Shimo- 
Gamo,  Kami-Gamo,  Shugaku-in  (for 
those  provided  with  the  necessary 
permit). 

5th  Day. — Iwashimizu. 

6th  Day. — Atago-yama. 

7th  Day. -^ -The  Rapids  of  the 
i  Katsura-gawa. 

8th  Day. — Uji. 

9th  Day. — Hiei-zan. 

Hiittory    and     Topofjraphy.  —  From    the 
"earliest  ages,  the  seat  of  the  Mikado's 
rule  was   genei-ally    in  the    province  of 
Yamato ;  but  o\\-inK  to  the  ancient  custom, 
of  not  continuing  to  inhabit  the  house  of  & 
deceased   parent,    the    actual    site    was 
usually  changed  at  the  commencement  of 
each  reign.    At  the  beginning  of  the  Sth. 
century  the  capital    was  established  at 
Nara,  where  it  remained  until  A.D.  78#, 
when  the   reigning  sovereign  Kwamma 
moved  to  Nagaoka,  a  spot  at  the  foot  of 
the  hills  alxnit  half-way  l)etween  Yama- 
zaki  and  ArHshi-yama  in  the  province  of 
Yamashiro.    In  793,  he  selected  a  fresh. 
site  at  the  village  of  Uda  in  the  same 
province,  and  ti-ansfen-ed  his  Court  thi- 
ther towards  the  end  of  the  following  year. 
In  order  to  conciliate  fortune,  he  is  said 
to  have  be8towe<l  on  his  new  capital  the 
name  of  Heian-jo,  or  the  City  of  Peace ;  but 
this  never  came  into  use  as  the  common 
designation  of  the  cjty,  which  was  spoken 
of  as  Miyako  or  Kyoto,  the  former  being 
the  Japanese,  the  latter  the  Chinese  word 
for  '  capital  city.'    When  first  laid  out, 
the  site  measured  nearly  3  ra.  from  E.  to 
"W*.,  and  about  3f,  m.  from  N.  to  S.    The 
Palace,  which  occupied  about  one-fifteenth 
of  the  area,  was'  situated  in  the  centre  of 
the  N.  side,  and  a  fine  street  280  ft.  wide 
led  from  the  gieat  gute  down  to  the  8. 
gate  of  the  city.    Nine  wide  streets,  called 
Ichi-j6,  Ni-jO,\San-jo,  and  so  <m  up  to  Ku- 
jo,  intersected  the  city  from  E.  to  W.,  the 
widest  of  those   measuring    itO  ft.,  the 
nari'owest    somewhat    less     than    half. 
Similar  streets  crossing   them   at  right 
angles  ran   from  N.  to  S.,  and  l)etween 
them  at  ecpial  distances  were  lanes  each 
40  ft.  in  width.    A  double  ditch,  backed 
by  a  low  wall  with  a  gate  at  the  cud  of 
each   princiiial    street,     sunxjunded  the. 
whole   of   this   huge    square.       In  1177 
the  Palace  was  destroyed   by   fire,  and 
three   years   later  the   seat   of   govern- 
ment wiis  removed   l)y  the  all-powerfnl 
Minister    Kiyomori    to    Fukuwara,  the 


Tlie  Milcado's  Palace, 


289 


modem  town  of  Ilyogo.  The  Court,  how- 
ever, soon  returned  to  Kyoto,  where  it  re- 
mained stationary  until  186S,  Both  the 
city  and  the  Palace  have  repeatedly  fallen 
a  prey  to  the  flames,  and  as  often  been 
rebnllt,  as  far  as  possible  in  the  original 
style.  The  preseut  Palace  was  built  after 
the  great  fire  of  1854.  Since  the  founda- 
tion of  Yedo  in  1590,  Kyoto  gradually 
declined  in  size  and  im])ortahce.  Its 
population  is  only  half  of  what  the  city  is 
estimated  to  have  hold  during  the  Middle 
Ages;  and  from  Shichi-jo-dori  south- 
wards, wh^t  once  were  busy  tliorough- 
fares  are  now  laid  out  in  market  gai-dens. 
Kyoto  stands  on  the  Kamogawa,  which, 
for  the  gieater  part  of  the  year,  is  a  mere 
rivulet  meandering  over  a  wide  pebl^ly 
bed.  On  the  1.  bank  of  the  river  are  the 
suburbs  of  Awata  and  Kiyomizu.  The 
town  of  Fushimi  to  the  S.  may  also  he 
"accounted  a  suburb.  The  chief  modem 
addition  to  the  topography  of  Kyoto  is, 
besides  the  line  of  railway,  the  Lake 
Biwa  Canal  which  connects  the  neigh- 
bouring large  lake  with  the  Kamogawa, 
as  de8cril)ed  in  Route  44. 

The  nomenclature  of  the  Kyoto  streets, 
apparently  complicated,  is  in  reality 
quite  simple,  beingjfounded  on  a  reference 
to  the  points  of  tlie  compass  and  to  the 
Ihj  of  the  land  which  is  slightly  higher  on 
the  N.  than  on  the  y.  Thus  the  expres- 
sion SAi/o-rfo/'i  Teramachi  Jiiganthi  iini  dig- 
nifies  that  portion  of  the  Shi  Jo  or  Fourth 
Thorouehfare  which  lies  a  little  to  the  E. 
of  the  East  and  West  intersection  of  that 
thoroughfare  by  Teramachi.  Teramachi- 
d9ri  Shij6  mgarii  signifies  the  portion  of 
the  North  and  South  Thoroughfare  called 
Teramachi  lying  a  little  to  the  South  of 
the  intersection  of  that  thorouehfare  by 
Shijo-dori,  the  term  mgurn,  to  'descend,' 
being  naturally  applied  to  the  South,  as 
agaittt  *  to  ascend,  is  to  the  North.  The 
lanes  mentioned  higher  u])  are  called  Ko/i, 
whence  such  addresses  as  Teramachi-dOri 
Ane-ga-KOfi,  which  means,  '  Ane  JJane  off 
the  Teramachi  Thoroughfare.' 

Some  curious  artificial  scars  or  clearings 
will  ]je  observed  on  carefully  scanning 
some  of  the  pine-clad  hills  near  the  city. 
In  these  clearings  it  is  that  bonfli-es  are 
lighted  every  18th  August  at  the  close  of 
the  Bon  festival  (Feast  of  Lanterns).  The 
most  conspicuous  of  these  marks  is  what 
is  called  the  Ifai  Moujiy  or  '  Chinese  cha- 
racter for  Great,''  which  is  written  thus, 

3^.  It  is  situated  to  the  N.E.  of  the  city. 
To  the  N»W.  is  the  Ilidari  Dai  Monji,  or 

'Character  for  Great  reversed,'  thus  5^» 
the  difference  between  the  two,  though 
slight  to  European  eyes,  being  instantly 
perceptible  to  any  Japanese.  There  are 
several  more  of  these  marks  which  the 
guide  will  point  out. 

The  Mikado's  Palnoe -(Gfos/io). 
This  large  mass  of  buildings  covers 
an  area  of  nearly  26  acres.    It  is 


confined  within  a  roofed  wall  of 
earth  and  plaster,  commonly  called 
the  Mi  Tsuijiy  and  has  six  gates. 
The  open  space  between  the  wall  and 
the  Palace  was  formerly  covered 
with  other  lesser  buildings  in  which 
the  Kiigcy  or  Court  Nobles,  resided^ 
It  is  now  cleared  and  open  to  the 
public,  and  in  the  S.  E.  corner  of  it 
is  a  Bazaar  (Hahubutsu-kwan)  open 
every  year  in  spring. 

Visitors  are  now  admitted  inta 
the  Palace  through  the  Mi  Daido- 
ko7-o  Gomon,  or  Gate  of  the  August 
Kitchen,  and  are  first  shown  into 
an  ante-chamber  where  they  sigu 
their  names  tn  the  Palace  book. 
From  there  they  are  led  into  the 
Selryodeiiy  or  Pure  and  Cool  Hall. 

It  is  so  c  died  from  a  small  brook  which 
runs  under  the  steps.  The  foreign  visitor 
to  these  Japanese  palaces  will  proliably 
think  the  tenn  '  cool  '—not  to  say  '  chilly  ' 
and  •  draughty  '—most  Hppropriate.  Splen- 
did as  is  the  art  displayed,  no  attem]>t 
was  ever  made  towards  heating  or  towards 
anything  which  we  should  call  comfort. 

The  Seirybdcn  faces  E.,  and  mea- 
sures 63  f t.'by  46^  ft.  Originally  thi». 
suite  of  apartments  was  the  ordinary 
residence  of  the  sovereign ;  but  in 
later  times  it  was  used  only  on  the 
occasion  of  levees  and  important 
Shinto  festivals,  such  as  the  worship 
of  the  Four  Quarters  on  the  morning 
of  New  Year's  day.  In  one  corner 
the  floor  is  made  of  cement,  on 
which  earth  was  strewn  every  morn- 
ing, so  that  the  Mikado  could  worship 
his  ancestors  on  the  earth  without 
descending  to  the  ground.  The 
papered  slides  are  covered  with  ex- 
tremely formal  paintings  by  Tosa 
Mitsukiyo.  Observe  the  Mikado's 
throne,  a  sort  of  catafalque  witk 
exquisite  silk  curtains  of  white ^ 
red,  and  black,  the  actual  seat 
being  a  fine  mat.  The  wood  of  this, 
as  of  all  the  buildings,  is  chamsecy- 
paris  (hiiioki),  the  same  species 
as  is  used  for  the  construc- 
tion of  Shinto  temples.  The  crest 
everywhere  displayed  is  the  sixteen-, 
petalled  chrysanthemum.  The  roof- 
ing is  of  the  kind  termed  hiwada- 
btiki — a  kind  of  thick  shingling — 


290 


lioiite  43. — Kyoto, 


tiles  appearing  only  on  the  very 
ridge.  The  empty  sanded  courts, 
tlie  white  plaster,  and  the  red  pillars 
•of  the  walls  give  to  the  Palace  a  pe- 
culiar aspect  of  solemnity,  almost 
of  oppressiveness.  Everything,  even 
down  to  minutise,  had  its  name,  its 
function,  and  was  never  changed. 
For  instance,  the  two  clumps  of  bam- 
boo in  front  of  the  Seiryddcn  have 
each  a  name  handed  down  from 
hoary  antiquity,  one  being  the  Kan- 
-chikUj  the  other  the  Go-chikUy  appel- 
lations derived  from  Kan  and  Go, 
two  kingdoms  in  ancient  China. 

From  the  Seiryoden  the  visitor  is 
conducted  to  the  Shisliindeny  which 
faces  S.  and  measures  120  ft.  by  63^ 
ft. 

The  narae  Shi-nhin-deM-ifi  explained  as 
follows:  nhi  is  purine,  the  tnie  colour  of 
the  sky  or  heaveuH;  »hiu  denotes  that 
which  is  mysterious  and  hidden  from  the 
vuljrar  paze ;  den  is  simply  *  hall.'  This 
buildiuf?  was  used  for  the  enthronement 
of  the  Mikado,  for  the  New  Year's  Audi- 
ence, and  other  impoilaut  ceremonies. 

The  large  paintings  in  the  panels 
of  this  hall  represent  Chinese  sages. 
The  originals  were  painted  in  A.D. 
888  by  the  famous  Kose-no-Kanao- 
ka ;  but  they  were  destroyed  long  ago, 
and  the  present  pictures  are  merely 
copies  of  copies.  The  throne  (Mi 
Chodaijy  though  quite  modem,  is 
interesting.  The  stools  on  either 
side  of  it  are  intended  for  the  Im- 
perial Insignia, — the  sword  and  the 
jewel.  The  pattern  on  the  silken 
curtains  is  meant  to  represent  the 
bark  of  an  aged  pine-tree.  Observe 
tliat  the  Mikado  sat  on  a  chair  in 
this  instance,  as  did  all  those  here 
admitted  to  an  audience.  A  flight 
of  18  steps  leads  down  into  the 
court.  These  correspond  in  number 
to  the  original  series  of  grades  into 
which  the  Mikado's  officials  were 
divided.  Those  who  were  not  entitled 
to  stand  on  the  lowest  step  were 
c&Wedji-gej  or  'down  on  the  earth,' 
to  distinguish  them  ^rom  the  tcn-jd- 
biiOy  or  *  persons  who  ascend  into  the 
•hall.'  On  the  1.  is  a  cherry-tree 
called  Salion  no  sdkura.  When  the 
Emperor  Kwammu  first  built  the 


palace,  he  planted  a  plum-tree  In 
this  position ;  but  it  withered  away, 
and  the  Emperor  Nimmyo  (834  to 
850)  replaced  it  by  a  cherry-tree. 
The  present  one  was  transplanted 
hither  thirty  years  ago.  On  the  r. 
side  is  the  Ukon  no  tachibana,  a 
wild  orange-tree,  also  a  relic  of  an- 
cient custom. 

Snl-on  and  Ukon  were  the  names  of 
ancient  ranks,  and  the  application  of 
them  to  these  trees  may  be  compared 
to  the  knighting  of  the  Sirloin  of  Beef  by 
Charles  II. 

A  corridor  leads  from  the  Shishin- 
den  to  the  O  GakumwijOj  or  Im- 
perial Study,  where  the  Mikado's 
tutors  delivered  lectures,  and  where 
courts  were  held  for  the  cultivation 
of  poetry  and  music.  The  decora- 
tion of  the  sliding  screens  in  this 
suite  calls  for  special  notice.  Most 
of  the  rooms,  as  will  be  noticed  by 
those  acquainted  with  the  Japanese 
language,  take  their  names  from 
the  subjects  delineated  in  them.  The 
wild  geese  in  the  Gati  no  Ma  are  by 
Benzan  (Gantoku),  d.  1869;  the 
screens  of  the  Yamabnhi  7io  Ma  are 
by  Maruyama  Oryu;  the  chrysan- 
themums in  the  Kiktc  no  Ma,  by 
Okamoto  Sukehiko.  The  three 
rooms  which  form  the  audience 
chamber,  called  respectively  Gedan^ 
Cliudatif  and  Jodan^  are  decorated 
with  Chinese  scenes.  The  wooden 
doors  in  the  corridor  are  by  Sho- 
mura  Ryusho,  Yoshida  Kokin,  Hara 
Nankei,  and  Murakami  Seiju. 

North  of  the  Imperial  study,  in  a 
building  measuring  57  ft.  by  83  ft., 
and  facing  S.towards  a  small  separate 
court,  is  a' suite  of  rooms  called  the 
On  Mi  Ma  (August  Three  Rooms). 
Here  were  held  private  audiences, 
and  the  Kb  performances  (a  kind  of 
lyric  drama)  were  witnessed  at  a 
distance  by  the  Mikado  seated  on 
the  upper  floor  or  jbdan.  The  No 
stage  is  under  a  separate  roof,  and 
cut  off  from  the  suite  by  a  high 
paling,  which  was  removed  when  a 
performance  took  place.  The  de- 
corations of  the  rooms  are  in  tho 
Tosa  style. 


Mikado's  Palace.     Doshisha.     Kitano  Tenjin. 


291 


The  last  suite  of  apartments  to 
which   visitors    are  now  generally 
admitted  is  the   Tstine  Goteuy    or 
Usual  Besidence  of  the    Mikados, 
•consisting  of  11  rooms,  which,  from 
the  13th  century  onward,  formed  the 
place  in  which  generations  of  Mika- 
dos    lived    and   died.     The    centre 
room  of  the  suite  facing  E.  was  His 
^Iajesty*s  ordinary  sitting-room,  the 
four  on  the  N.  being  occupied  by  his 
female  attendants.     At  the  W.  end 
of  this  suite  was  the  Mdshi  no  kuchif 
literally  *  Opening  for  Speech,'  where 
men  who  had  business  with  Hi3 
Majesty  stated  their  errand  to  the 
women,  who  then  transmitted  it  to 
the  Mikado.   The  Imperial  bedroom 
%vas  behind  the  sitting-room,  and 
entirely    surrounded  by  the   other 
apartments,   so  that  no  one  could 
get  near  His  Majesty  without   the 
knowledge   of    his    immediate    at- 
tendants.   Beyond  the  Tsune  Goten 
lie    the    Ndiyoden^  or   Palace    for 
Enjoj'ing  the  Cool  Air,  which  was 
reserved  for  the   Iklikado's  private 
pleasures,  and   the  Kita  Goten,  or 
Northern  Palace,    containing    the 
apartments  of  the  Heir  Apparent. 
There  were  formerly    also  palaces 
for  the  Empress,  Empress  Dowager, 
and  Princesses,  besides  various  other 
buildings  now  destroyed  or  removed. 
For  instance,   the  Kashiko-dohoi'Of 
or  Fearful  Place,   in  which  is  pre- 
served the  sacred  mirror  of  the  Sun- 
Goddess,  has  been  transferred  bodily 
to    Jimmu  Tenno's  mausoleum   in 
the  province  of  Yamato. 

The  large  white  building  in  foreign 
style,    noticed    on    the   hill  r.   on 
quitting  the  Palace,  is  the  Dosliisha, 
a   Christian  University  founded  in 
1876  under  the  auspices  of  the  Ame- 
rican Board  lilission.      Intimately 
connected  with  its  success  is  the 
name  of  the  Rev.  Joseph  Neeshima, 
one  of  the  most  eminent  of  the  early 
Japanese    converts    to    Presbyteri- 
anism.     This  flourishing  institution 
now  includes  a  special  Theological 
Department,    a    Girls'    School,    a 
Science  School,  a  Hospital,  and  a 
Nurses'  Training  School. 


Kitnno  Teiyin  is  a  temple  dedi- 
cated to  Tenjin  Rama  (see  p.  32), 
by  which  latter  name  indeed  it  is 
generally  known.  Entering  through 
the  great  stone  torii  on  the  S.,  we 
find  tea-houses,  and  stone  lanterns 
presented  by  votaries  of  the  god.  A 
small  two-storied  gate-house,  gaudily- 
decorated  in  colours,  forms  the 
entrance  to  the  temple  enclosure. 
It  is  called  the  San-kd  no  Mon,  or 
Gate  of  the  Three  Luminaries,  i.e. 
the  Sun,  Moon,  and  Stars,  from  re- 
presentations of  those  heavenly 
bodies  which  may  be  distinguished 
with  much  difficulty  among  the 
carvings  on  the  beams  of  the  gate- 
way. The  oratory,  built  by  Hide- 
yori  in  1607,  forms  the  N.  side  of  a 
square,  the  other  three  sides  being 
colonnades,  with  the  Gate  of  the 
Sun,  Moon,  and  Stars  on  the  S. 
Its  dimensions  are  58  ft.  by  24  ft. 
The  cornice  is  decorated  with  colour 
in  the  style  prevalent  at  that  period. 
The  chapel  behind,  38^  ft.  by  32^  ft.> 
.is  separated  from  the  oratory  by  a 
chamber  paved  with  stone,  having 
its  roof  at  right  angles  to  the  roofs 
of  the  oratory  and  chapel.  Behind 
is  the  Jinushino  YashirOj  or  Temple 
of  the  Lord  of  the  Soil,  said  to  have 
been  founded  in  A.  D.  836,  and 
numerous  other  small  chapels.  The 
treasury  is  built  of  wooden  beams, 
the  section  of  each  beam  being  a 
right-angled  triangle  with  the  right 
angle  outside,  a  form  of  construction 
much  followed  in  this  portion  of 
Japan.  East  of  the  colonnade  are 
the  kagura  stage  and  the  building 
in  which  the  god's  car  (mikoshi)  is 
kept.  The  temple  was  founded  ori- 
ginally by  adherents  of  the  Byobu 
Shinto  sect,  and  is  still  an  excellent 
specimen  of  the  style  of  that  variety 
of  Shinto,  which  is  much  mixed 
with  Buddhism  and  miscellaneous 
popular  superstitions.  The  num- 
berless stone  lanterns,  the  stone  and 
metal  bulls  (offered  up  here  because 
Tenjin  is  said  to  have  ridden  on  one 
of  those  animals),  the  ex-voto  shed 
(ema-dd)  with  its  grotesque  pictures, 
the  elaborately  carved  and  painted 


292 


Route  43, — K I/O  to. 


gate-ways,  the  swaying  lanterns — all 
testify  to  a  form  of  worship  of  the 
baser  popular  sort.  One  of  the 
queerest  features  of  the  main  build- 
ing is  a  sot  of  framed  pictures  of 
^the  Thirty-Six  Cieniuses  of  Poetry, 
made  of  woven  stuffs,  which  have 
been  recently  presented  by  the 
manufacturers,  and  thus  servo'  as 
an  advertisement. 

Pictures  of  the  Thirty-Six  Geniuses  of 
Poetrj'  are  amonj?  the  usutil  atlorumonts 
of  Shinto  temples. 

Hirniio  Jinju.  This  temple  de- 
serves passing  notice,  as  a  good 
example  of  a  place  of  worship 
rebuilt  according  to  the  architec- 
tural canons  of  *pure  Shinto.'  The 
oratory  is  an  open  shed  hung  with 
pictures  representing  the  Thirty- 
Six  Genuises  of  Poetry.  Beyond  it 
are  five  chapels — two  pairs  con- 
nected by  a  watch-room,  and  one 
detached.  They  are  dedicated  to 
minor  Shinto  deities.  The  annual 
festival  is  held  on  the  2nd  May. 
The  cherry-trees  in  the  grounds  are 
much  visited  during  the  season  of 
blossom,  especially  at  night.  They 
are  of  many  varieties,  and  each  tree 
has  some  fanciful,  poetical  name. 

Dftitokiiji. 

Daitokuji,  belonjring  to  the  Zen  sect  of 
Buddhists,  was  foimtled  by  Daito  Koku- 
Bbi,  an  ablxjt  of  the  early  part  ot  the  14th 
century,  to  whom,  as  to  so  many  others, 
a  miraculous  birth  and  prec(X?ious  wisdom 
are  ascrilied.  The  manner  of  his  concep- 
tion is  said  to  have  l)een  that  his  mother 
dreamt  oie  nij^ht  that  a  wild  proose  came 
flying  towards  her  with  an  open  blossom 
in  its  beak,  and  that  soon  afterwards  she 
found  herself  to  be  with  child. 

This  once  magnificent  temple  still 
merits  a  visit  on  account  of  its 
stately  proportions.  One  of  its  gates 
— the  Hignrashi  no  Mwiy  so  called 
because  a  day  might  be  spent  in 
examining  its  carvings — should  be 
specially  noted;  also  the  fine  gilt 
image  of  Shaka  in  the  Garan-do. 
Daitokuji  is  celebrated  for  the 
treasures  stored  away  in  its  godowns. 
Kg  temple  in  Japan,  so  it  is  averred, 
possesses  an  equally  large  number 
of  valuable  kakeinonos.  Though 
most  of  the  best  pieces  are   thus 


hidden  from  view,  the  Apartments 
richly  deserve  the  careful  scrutiny  of 
all  persons  interested  in  Japanese 
pictorial  art.  The  entire  set  of  sliding 
doors  (fnsnvia)  dividing  room  from 
room  were  painted  by  Kano  Tan-jxi, 
from  whose  brush  also  are  folding 
screens  representing  scenery  in 
China,  the  four  seasons,  children  at 
play,  etc.  A  pair  of  screens  with 
spleiididly  coloured  peacocks  is 
by  Okyo  ;  others  by  Kano  Tanshin 
depict  popular  occupations  and 
trades.  The  sepia  drawing  by  Tan- 
yvi  of  a  man  making  a  monkey 
dance,  which  occupies  one  wall  of 
the  innermost  room,  is  particularly 
famous.  An  interesting  old  portrait 
bust  in  wood  represents  Ota  Nobu- 
naga. 

The  Shinto  shrine  of  Ota  Nobu- 
liagai,  on  the  slope  of  Funaoka-yania» 
is  prettily  situated  near  Daitokuji. 
The  summit  of  the  hill,  which  can 
be  reached  in  a  couple  of  minutes^ 
commands  a  beautiful  panorama  of 
the  city  and  surrounding  country. 

This  temple  was  built  in  1880  by  private- 
admirers  of  the  hero,  who  is  now  wor- 
shipped as  a  Shinto  gotl. 

Khiknknji,  more  properly  Boku- 
onjl,  a  monastery  of  the  Zen  sect, 
takes  its  popular  name  from  the 
Ji'in-kakUy  or  *  golden  pavilion,'  in  the 
grounds  attached  to  it. 

In  1397,  Ashikaga  Yoshimitsu,  who  had 
tliree  years  previously  surrendered  the 
title  of  Shogun  to  his  youthful  son  Yoshi- 
m(K'hi,  obtained  this  place  from  its  fonner 
owner,  and  after  extending  the  grounds, 
built  himself  a  palace  to  sei-ve  nominally 
as  a  retreat  from  the  world.  Here  he 
shaved  his  head,  and  assumed  the  garb 
of  a  Buddhist  monk,  while  still  continuing 
in  reality  to  direct  the  affairs  of  state. 

The  garden  is  beautifully  laid  out. 
In  the  middle  is  a  lake  with  pine- 
clad  shores  and  pine-clad  islets, 
whose  quiet  charm  none  would 
expect  to  find  so  close  to  a  large 
metropolis.  The  lake  is  stocked 
with  carp,  which,  when  visitors 
appear  there,  crowd  together  at  the 
stage  below  the  Pavilion,  in  ex- 
pectation of  being  fed.  All  the 
palace  buildings  have  disappeared. 
The  Pavilion  alone  remains,  much 


Kinkakiiju     Tdji-  in . 


29B 


dunined  by  age.  It  stands  on  the 
water's  edge,  facing  S.,  and  is  a 
three-storied  building,  33  ft.  by 
24  ft.  In  the  lower  room  are  a 
seated  effigy  of  Yoshimitsu  in  shaven 
pate  and  priestly  garb,  and  gilt 
statuettes  of  Amida,  Kwannon,  and 
Selshi,  by  the  carver  Unkei.  In  the' 
second  storey  is  a  small  Kwannon  in 
an.  imitation  rock-work  cave,  with 
the  Shi-Tenno. 

The  paintings  on  the  ceiling  by 
Kano  Masanobu  are  now*  scarcely 
recognisable.     The  third  storey  was 
completely  gilt,  the  gold  being  laid 
on  thickly  over  varnish  composed  of 
bone    powder    and    lacquer    upon 
hempen  cloth.     The  ceiling,  walls, 
and   floor  were  thus  treated ;   and 
even    the    frames    of    the    sliding 
screens,  the  railing  of  the  balcony, 
and   the    small    projecting    rafters 
which  form  the  roof  of  the  balcony, 
were,  as  a  careful  examination  will 
show,    covered    with    the   precious 
metal.      Nearly  all   the   gold    has 
disappeared,  but  the  original  wood- 
work is  complete,  with  the  excep- 
tion of  a  few  boards  that  have  been 
put   in   to  replace   some   that  had 
decayed.     The  effect,  now  so  dingy, 
must  have  been  dazzlingly  beauti- 
ful.    On   the  top  of  the  roof  stands 
a  bronze  phoenix    3   ft.   high,  also 
formerly  gilt. 

The  large  hill  seeif  to  the  r.  fro  m 
the  third  storey  of  the  Pavilion  is 
Kinukasa-yama. 

This  name  means  Silk  Hat  Mountain, 
and  was  given  in  allusion  to  the  incident 
of  the  ex-Mika'lo  Uda  having  ordered  it 
to  be  spread  wibh  white  silk  on«  hot  day 
in  July,  in  order  that  his  eyes  at  least 
might  enjoy  a  cool  wintry,  sensation. 

The  guide  will  probably  wish  to 
lead  the  traveller  round  the  grounds 
at  the  back  of  the  Pavilion,  where 
Yoshimitsu's  footsteps  and  doings 
are  tracked  with  minute  care, — the 
place  where  His  Highness  drank 
tea,  the  place  whence  the  water  for 
his  tea  came,  the  place  where  he 
washed  his  hands,  etc.;  but  these 
can  have  little  interest  for  any  but 
a  Japanese.    The  ApartmentSj    on 


the  other  hand,  deserve  careful  in- 
spection, on  account  of  the  sliding 
screens  which  they  contain  by  Kano 
Tan-yii  and  Jakuchu,  of  the  folding 
screens  by  Korin  and  Soami,  of  the 
numerous  kakemonos  by  Shubun, 
Eishin,  Okyo,  Korin,  Sesson,  and 
other  celebrated  artists,  notably  two 
by  Cho  Densu  representing  the 
three  religious  teachers  Confucius, 
Ghwang  Tzu,  add  Buddha,  besides 
various  relics  and  autographs  of 
the  Ashigawa  Shoguns  and  other 
illustrious  personages.  The  priest 
who  shows  all  these  treasures  tjo 
visitors,  sometimes  ends  up  by  treat- 
ing them  to  tea  in  the  clia-no-yu 
style. 

Toji-in,  founded  by  Ashikaga 
Takauji  in  the  14th  century,  will 
interest  the  historical  student  as 
containing  effigies  of  nearly  all  the 
Shoguns  of  the  Ashikaga  dynasty, 
beginning  with  Takauji  in  the  centre 
chamber,  a  lacquered  wooden  seated 
figure  in  the  court-robe  called 
kari-ginu,  with  the  courtier's  wand 
(shakii)  in  the  r.  hand,  and  wearing 
a  tall  black  court  cap  (taka-cboshi). 
Opposite  to  him  is  leyasu  (of  the 
Tokugawa  dynasty).  In  the  next 
room  are,  beginning  at  the  1.,  t(2) 
Yoshinori,  (4)  Yoshimochi,  (6)  Yo- 
shinori  II.,  (8)  Yoshimasa,  (10)  Yo- 
shizumi,  and  (12)  Yoshiteru.  The 
other  room  contains  the  effigies 
of  (3)  Yoshimitsu,  (7)  Yoshikatsu, 
who  died  at  the  age  of  ten,  (9) 
Yoshinao,  (11)  Yoshitane,  (13) 
Yoshiharu,  a  degenerate-looking, 
dwarfish  man,  and  (15)  Yoshiaki, 
fat  and  sensual  in  appearance.  Most, 
if  not  all,  may  be  looked  on  as  con- 
temporary portraits  of  the  men  they 
represent.  Observe  that  in  their 
time  (14th,  15th,  and  16th  centuries), 
the  Japanese  fashion  was  to  wear  a 
moustache  and  small  pointed  beard. 
The  Apartments  of  this  monastery 
also  contain  various  kakemonos  by 
Kano    Tan-yu    and    other    famous 


tThe  numbers  in  brackets  refer  to  the 
order  of  each  in  the  dynasty  to  which 
they  all  belonged. 


294 


Route  43. — Kyoto, 


artists.  The  sliding  screens  in 
'  sepia  are  all  by  Kano  Sanraka. 
Those  round  one  of  the  rooms  de- 
pict the  acts  of  devotion  of  the 
Four-and-Twenty  Paragons  of  Filial 
Piety. 

During  the  i)eriod  of  fermentation  which 
preceded  the  restoration  of  the  Mikado's 
authority,  it  was  the  fashion  among  the 
opponents  of  the  feudal  regime  to  load 
the  memory  of  the  Ashikaga  Phoguns 
with  the  insults  that  could  not 
safely  be  offered  in  a  direct  manner  to 
those  of  the  Tokugawa  line  ;  and  one 
morning  in  April,  1863,  the  peojjle  of 
Kyoto  woke  to  find  the  heads  of  the 
effigies  of  Takauji,  Yoshinori,  and  Yoshi- 
m^itsu  pilloried  in  the  dry  bed  of  the 
Kamogawa  at  the  spot  where  it  was 
then  usual  to  expose  the  heads  of  the 
worst  criminals.  Several  of  the  men  con- 
cerned in  this  affair  wei-e  thrown  into 
prison,  whence  they  where  transferred  to 
the  custody  of  certain  Daimyos,  and  not 
released  for  some  years  afterwards. 

Myosliinji  is  a  large  temple  of 
the  Zen  sect,  founded  by  Kwanzan 
Kokushi,  an  abbot  of  the  14th 
century. 

Oiuuro  Goslio,  also  called  Ninnaji, 
is  a  monastery  founded  towards  the 
end  of  his  life  by  the  ISIikado  Koko. 

In  A.D.  899  the  ex-Mikado  Uda  chose  it 
as  his  place  of  retirement,  and  occupied  the 
palace  built  for  him  here  from  901  until  his 
death  in  93 1 .  In  890  A  decree  was  issued  con- 
stituting Ninnnji  a  residence  for  'descen- 
dants of  the  M  ik»ido,'  or  3fomeki,  as  they  are 
culled,  a  term  applied  extensively  m  later 
years  to  monasteries  founded  to  pro- 
vide the  miscellaneous  Imperial  offspring 
with  homes,  and  also  conferred  as  a  title  of 
distinetion  upon  abbots  of  other  than  Im- 
perial blood .  The  Mikado  Shu jaku  entered 
the  priesthood  in  952,  and  took  up  liis  re- 
sidence here,  but  no  other  ex-sovereign 
ever  occupied  it.  Up  to  1868  there  had 
been  thirty  three  successive  priest-princes, 
the  last  of  whom  was  the  present  Prince 
Higashi  Fushimi. 

Burnt  to  the  gi-ound  in  1887,  this 
monastery,  now  counted  among  the 
Imperial  summer  palaces,  is  Ijeing 
rebuilt  (1891)  in  a  suitably  orna- 
mental style,  aud  will  doubtless, 
when  finished,  be  well-worth  a  visit. 
The  grounds,  which  are  spacious, 
show  to  best  advantage  during  the 
season  of  the  cherry-blossoms.  There 
is  a  fine  five-storied  pagoda,  which, 
with  a  few  other  of  the  lesser  build- 
ings, escaped  the  fire. 


Half  a  ri  beyond  Omuro  Goslio 
lies  l^akao-zail,  celebrated  for  its 
Momiji-yama^  or  *  maple  mountain,' 
on  one  side  of  a  romantic  glen. 
There  is  a  tea-house  oh  the  top  wifcti 
a  delightful  prospect. 

Uziiitiftsa,  more  properly  called 
Koryujij  stands  far  out  of  the  city  at 
the  end  of  the  Nijo  street.  ^ 

This  verj-  ancient  Buddhist  temple  is  said 
to  have  been  founded  in  A.D.  604  by  Sho- 
toku  Taishi,  who  consecrated  it  to  certain 
Buddhist  gods  whose  images  had  been. 
brought  from  Korea.  The  principal  edi- 
fice, called  the  ;K6do,  was,  however,  not 
erected  before  836,  and  this  having  been 
burnt  down  about  1150,  the  present  stmo- 
ture  was  built  out  of  timber  saved  from 
the  flames.  The  other  buildings  are  of 
much  later  date— 17th  and  18th  centuries 
—and  arc  now  (1891)  undergoing  repairs. 

This  temple  will  have  special 
attraction  for  the  student  of  Japa- 
nese statuary,  which  can  nowhere, 
except  at  Nara,  be  studied  in  such  a 
multitude  of  very  early  specimens.! 
Most  of  them  are  about  life-size  or 
else  half .  life-size.  The  most  in- 
teresting of  these  wooden  statues  is 
one  of  Shotoku  Taishi  at  the  age 
of  thirty-three,  said  to  have  been 
carved  by  himself.  It  is  clad  in  a 
silken  robe  of  imperial  yellow,  pre- 
sented by  the  Mikado  at  ,his  ac- 
cession, in  accordance  with  ancient 
custom.  In  its  r.  hand  the  image 
holds  the  courtier's  w^and,  in  its  1. 
a  censer.  Besides  the  yellow  robe, 
it  wears  wide  trowsers  of  white  silk 
damask  and  a  black  court  hat.  The 
features  have  a  very  natural  ex- 
pression, but  the  paint  on  the 
face  has  become  discoloured  by 
time.  In  the  temporary  hondb  are 
the  Buddhist  images  from  Korea. 
The  most  important  of  these  is 
a  gilt  wooden  figure  of  Nio-i-rin 
Kwannon,  about  3  ft.  high,  seated 
upon  a  stool,  the  r.  foot  lifted  and 
laid  on  the  1.   knee,   the  1.  hand 


tHe  will  of  course  remember  that  many 
of  these,  though  called  Japanese,  are 
either  Korean  or  else  carved  under  the 
instruction  of  Korean  teachers.  See  the 
very  interasting  opening  pages  of  Ander- 
son's '  Catalogue  of  Japanese  and  Chinese 
Paintings  in  the  British  Maseom.' 


Uzwnasa.     Araahl-yama,     Xijo  Paluce, 


295 


Testing  on  the  r.  foot.  The  face  is 
supported  on  two  long  fiugers  of  the 
r.  hand.  Drapery  formal.  The 
hair  is  drawn  hack  from  the  fore- 
head, and  tied  in  a  knoh  at  the  top. 
The  features  are  perfectly  natural, 
•and  wear  a  pensive  expression.  The 
hands  are  heautifully  modelled,  the 
arms  rather  thia,  though  showing 
a  good  idea  of  form ;  hut  the  feet 
have  recently  been  restored  in  a 
•clums}*  manner.  The  gold  has  been 
nearly  all  rubbed  off.  Round  the 
shrine  are  the  *  Twelve  Divine 
Generals'  (Ju-ni-ten),  who  so  fre- 
■quently  accompany  the  god  Yakushi, 
•of  which  latter  there  is  an  imago 
dating  from  the  9th  century.  A 
curious  feature  is  a  box  about  1^  ft. 
square,  containing  no  less  than 
1,000  microscopic  images  of  Jizo 
{Sen-tai  Jizo). 

Saga  no  Sliaka-do,  more  popular- 
ly called  Seirj/ujiy  is  a  large  temple  of 
tlie  Jodo  sect  of  Buddhists,  to  which 
lads  and  girls  13  years  old  make  a 
pilgrimage  on  the  isth  day  of  the  3rd 
month  in  order  to  obtain  wisdom — 
^  pilgrimage  which  goes  by  the 
name  of  the  jii-san-Diairi.  The  pre- 
sent building  is  about  two  centuries 
•old.  Behind  the  altar,  is  a  magnifi- 
cently gilt  shrine  of  Shaka,  with 
painted  carvings  presented  by  the 
mother  of  lemitsu,  third  Shogun  of 
the  Tokugawa  dynasty.  On  the 
doors  being  opened,  a  curtain  is 
■drawn  up,  which  discloses  another 
set  of  doors,  gilded  and  painted,  and 
then  a  second  curtain  splendidly 
-embroidered.  R.  and  1.  are  seated 
images  of  Monju  and  Fugen. 

r 

The  imaffc  of  Shaka  is  said  to  be  Indian, 
*tid  to  have  Ijeen  executed  fnwn  life  V)y 
tbe  scuii)tor  Bishukatsuma  (Vishvakar- 
man),  but  it  lias  more  the  appearance 
■«if  a  ("hinese  work.  Choneu,  a  monk  of 
Toilfliji  at  Nara,  is  said  to  have  Ininijjfht 
it  over  in  the  year  987.  Accoi-ding 
to  the  legfend,  it  was  carved  when 
Shaka  Muni  w^as  absent  iu  the  heaven 
■failed  Tosotsu-Ten  (  Tmthita  ),  preach- 
ing to  his  mother,  during?  which  time 
lug  diKciplcs  mourned  over  his  absence. 
Kinjf  Uten  (Udayana)  ,gave  red  saudal- 
wootl  fi*om  his  stores, 'and  the  saint's 
\K)rtrait  having  been  drawn  from  memory 
hy     Mokuren     ( Maudgalyuyana ),     the 


sculptor  went  to  w^ork  and  speedily  com- 
pleted the  statue,  which  was  placed  in  the 
monastery  of  (rion  Shoja  (the  JetavajMw 
Vihiira).  On  the  return  of  Shaka  after 
an  absence  of  90  days,  the  image 
descended  the  steps  to  meet  him,  and 
they  entered  the  monastery  together. 

Arashi-yaiua  is  a  picturesque 
gorge  up  the_  River  Katsura,  here 
called  the  Oigawa,  and  higher 
up  the  Hozugawa.  The  hills  are 
everj^where  covered  with  j)ine-trees. 
There  are  also  plantations  of  cherry- 
trees,  brought  from  Yoshino  in  the 
13th  century  by  the  Emperor  Kame- 
yama,  and  of  maple-trees  which 
add  greatly  to  the  natural  beauty  of 
the  spot  in  spring  and  autumn.  The 
place  boasts  some  good  tea-liou£es, 
especially  the  Nakamura-ya  and 
Hototogisu.  The  raffs  seen  on  the 
river  bring  down  timber  from  the 
province  of  Tamba.  Hard  by,  in 
the  vill.  of  Saga,  is  Tcnryuji, 
formerly  a  vast  congeries  of  temples 
and  priests'  dwellings,  of  which, 
however,  a  fire  that  took  place 
during  the  civil  war  of  1864  has 
left  but  few  remnants  standing. 

The  NijO  Palace  (Nijb  no  Rikyu). 

This  site  originally  held  a  mansion  erec- 
ted by  Nobunaga  in  AD.  1569  for  Yoshi- 
aki,  the  last  of  the  Ashikaga  dynasty  of 
Shogniis.  The  present  edifice  dates  froia 
1601,  when  leyasu  built  it  to  serve  as  a 
pied-a-terre  on  the  occasion  of  his  visits  ta 
Kyoto.  During  his  time  and  thatofhia 
successors,  the  Tok»ig.i\y'a  Shogun«,  it  was 
known  a«  Xijo  no  Shiro,  «n"  the  Nijo  Castle. 
On  the  6th  April,  ISGS,  the  present  Mikado, 
just  re-iuvetsted  with  his  full  ancestral 
rights  by  the  revolution  then  in  progress, 
hei-e  met  the  Councd  of  State,  and  in  their 
presence  swore  to  grant  a  deliberative 
assembly  and  to  docide  all  measures  by 
public  opinion.  Afier  this,  the  Castla 
WHS  for  some  time  used  as  the  office  of  the 
Kyoto  Prefecture,  but  was  taken  over  in 
1883  as  one  of  the  Imperial  summer  palaces. 
Though  as  many  as  possible  of  the  wall 
paintings,  being  on  paper,  were  i-oUed  up 
and  put  away  during  the  occupation  of  the 
palace  by  the  prefecture,  much  harm  -was 
done  to  painted  doors  and  to  precious 
metal-work  by  the  almost  incredible  vjin- 
dalisrn  and  negler.t  which  ran  riot  at  that 
period  all  over  Jspan,  wben  to  deface 
antique  works  of  art  was  considered  a  sign 
of  civilisation  and  'progress.'  The  restor- 
ation of  the  Nijo  Palace  to  something  like 
its  former  splendour  dates  from  1885-6,  at 
which  time  the  Imperial  crest  of  the  sixteen- 
petallcd  chrysanthemum  was  substituted  in. 


296 


Route  43. — Kyoto, 


most  places  for  that  of  the   Tokuga\ra 
bhoguus. 

This  palace,  a  dream  of  golden 
"beauty  within,  is  externally  a  good 
example  of  the  Japanese  fortress, 
with  its  turrets  at  the  corners  and 
its  wall  of  Cyclopean  masonry.  It 
is  only,  however,  a  fraction  of  its 
fqrmer  self.  The  present  building 
is  what  was  called  the  Ni  no  maru, 
or  Second  Keep,  the  Hojnmai'Uy 
or  Chief  Keep,  having  been  de- 
stroyed by  fire  about  100  years  ago. 
Alighting  at  a  fine  gate  called  Kara- 
Ttum  or  Yotsii-ashi-vion,  decorated 
-with  exquisite  metal- work  and  gilt 
carvings,  the  Visitor  is  admitted 
through  a  side-door  into  a  court 
planted  with  pine-trees.  Opposite 
stands  a  second  gate,  called  O  Kii- 
ruma-yoscy  gorgeous  with  gold  and 
colours  and  curious  carvings  of 
peonies  and  phoenixes,  the  work  of 
Hidari  Jingoro,  brought  from  Hide- 
yoshi's  famous  palace  at  Fushimi. 
Turning  to  the  r.,  the  visitor  is 
then  admitted  to  the  Palace  pro- 
per, where,  having  signed  his  name 
in  the  book,  he  is  shown  over  the 
various  suites  of  rooms,  the  chief 
character  of  which  is  spaciousness, 
-while  the  profuse  employment  of 
gold  as  the  ground  of  the  mural 
decorations,  and  the  unusual  size 
and  boldness  of  the  paintings  on 
that  gold  ground  give  to  the  whole 
an  aspect  of  grandeur,  power,  and 
xichness  rarely  seen  in  a  country 
whose  art,  generally  speaking,  re- 
stricts itself  to  the  small  and  the 
delicate.  All  the  wood  used  in  the 
construction  is  hhwki  and  kcyaki ; 
that  of  the  doors  is  cryptomeria. 
The  rooms  are  n£imed  according  to 
the  objects  painted  on  the  sliding 
screens  round  their  walls.  Some 
have  willow-trees,  some  palm-trees 
and  tigers,  some  immense  eagles 
bovering  over  pine-trees  life  size ; 
others  have  fans,  large  baskets  of 
Howers,  etc.,  all  by  artists  of  the 
Kano  school.  The  coffered  ceilings, 
too,  where  not  injured,  are  very  hand- 
fKyme.  The  floors,  formerly  covered 
^tli  soft  mats  of  a  specially  rich 


thickness,  are  now  reduced  to  tho* 
bare  boards — a  strange  discorct 
in  the  golden  magnificence.  Their 
removal .  is  said  to  have  been 
caused  by  the  desire  to  imitate 
European  usage  and  lay  carpets 
down,  but  this  has  never  been  done. 
The  carvings  in  the  ramma  of  somo 
of  the  rooms  are  exquisitely  minute. 
One  pair,  in  particular,  attributed 
to  Hidari_  Jingoro,  in  the  suite 
called  Ohiroinay  which  repre- 
sents i^eacocks,  is  a  triumph  of 
art.  A  peculiarity  of  some  of 
these  carved  ramma  is  that,, 
though  appearing  to  be  open-work 
and  therefore  identical  on  both 
sides,  the  two  sides  are  in  reality 
quite  different  from  each  other^ 
Thus,  where  the  obverse  has- 
peacocks,  the  reverse  will  have 
I)eonies.  Most  of  the  suites  of 
apartments  are  connected  by 
wooden  doors  having  fine,  bold 
paintings  by  unknown  artists.  One 
of  these  paintings  is  celebrated  in 
the  artistic  world  under  the  name 
of  Naonobu  no  nurc-sagi  (*  the  wet 
'hexom'by  Naonohu').  It  represents 
a  heron  perched  on  the  gunwale  of 
a  boat.  During  the  reign  of 
prefectural  vandalism,  this  precious- 
work  of  art  was  used  as  a  notice- 
board  to  paste  notifications  on  f 
The  Sotefsii  no  Ma,  or  *  Palmetto 
Room,'  was  entirely  and  irrecover- 
ably defaced  at  the  same  time. 

The  most  splendid  apartment  of 
all  is  the  Go  Taimenjo,  or  Hall  of 
Audienc£,  the  last  room  in  the  suite 
called  0-liircma.  It  positively 
blazes  and  sparkles  with  gold,  and 
the  extraordinary  size  and  boldness 
of  the  pine-trees  painted  all  around 
it  produces,  in  its  simplicity,  an 
impression  which,  when  the  place 
was  the  scene  of  the  reception  by  a 
Shogun  of  his  prostrate  vassals,  the 
Daimyos,  must  have  been  over- 
whelming. Tliu  metal  fastenings 
are  all  gilt,  and  of  exquisite  work- 
manship. They  represent  chiefly 
phoenixes,  conventional  foliage,  and 
the  Tokugawa  crest.  Here  too 
the  mats  have  been  replaced  in  the 


Nijo  ami  Katsura  Palaces,     ToJL 


297 


old  style — an  evidence  of  good  taste 
prompted,  so    it    is    said,   by    the 
remarks  of  foreign  visitors.     Notice 
the  two  levels  in  the  apartment.  The 
raised  portion  (jodan)  was  for  the 
Shogun,    the     lower     (gedan)     for 
ordinary  mortals.    .The  last  apart- 
ment of  the  suite  called  Kuro-join 
is  a   smaller  but  equally  gorgeous 
reception    room — all      gold,    with 
•double  cherry-trees  in  full  blossom. 
Observe   the  two  beautiful  shelves 
(chigai'dana)y  one  of  which  shows 
some      rude    early     examples     of 
■cloisonne    work, — small  medallions 
w^ith  the  Shogun's  crest.    The  style 
■of  decoration  of  the  Shif-o-joi^i,  the 
innermost  suite  of  all,  differs  from 
the  rest,  the  fusuma  being  of  dull 
gold  painted  in  sepia  with  Chinese 
scenes  by  Kano  Koi.    At  the  very 
■end  of  the  Palace  is  another  great 
Audience  Hall,  called  Chokiishi  no 
Mtty  or  Apartment  of  the  Imperial 
Ambassadors.  It  is  resplendent  with 
:gold  and  great  trees — peach,  maple, 
■etc. — painted  life-size,   and  has    a 
beautiful   coffered  ceiling  and  gilt 
metal  fastenings.    The  minor  rooms 
passed  just  before  reaching  it,  and 
decorated     with    wild    geese    and 
herons,  were  intended  for  DaimyOs 
to  transact  business  in. 

Katsnra  no  lUkyfi  (Katsura 
Summer  Palace). 

Formerly  this  retreat  belonged  to 
Princess  Katsura,  a  member  of  the  Im- 
perial family.  It  has  now  l)een  taken 
over  as  a  summer  i)alace  or  pleasure  re- 
sort for  the  Mikado  himsfelf . 

The'  building  itself  is  a  ram- 
shackle place,  not  differing  in  style 
from  any  ordinary  Japanese  house. 
Only  those  will  care  to  inspect  it  to 
whom  every  pencil-stroke  of  the 
artists  of  the  Kano  school,  especial- 
ly Kano  Tan-yii,  is  precious.  The 
walls  are  decorated  by  those  artists, 
chiefy  in  sepia ;  but  most  of  the 
paintings  are  in  a  very  bad  state  of 
preservation.  The  square  bamboo 
frame  to  the  r.  on  entering  is  called 
Tsuki-mi-daif  that  is,  *  the  moon- 
gazing  frame,'  from  the  circumstance 
that  it  was  used  by  the  inmates 


to  sit  out  on  and  watch  the 
moon  rising  over  the  pine-trees. 
The  object  of  visiting  this  place 
is  to  see  the  Garden,  which  is  a 
perfectly  representative  example  of 
the  best  style  of  Japanese  landscape 
gardening,  as  practised  by  Kobori 
Enshu  and  the  other  aristocratic  en- 
thusiasts who,  under  the  general 
name  of  cha-no-yu,  or  '  tea  ceremo- 
nies,' cultivated  all  the  arts  from 
which  esthetic  enjoyment  can  be 
derived.  All  the  summer-houses  in. 
this  garden  are  in  the  cha-no-yu 
style  —  very  plain  and  primitive^ 
as  its  canons  ordain.  Then  too 
there  are  pools,  artificial  streams, 
rustic  bridges,  .large  stepping-stones 
brought  from  the  two  extremities  of 
the  Empire,  trees  trained  in  arti- 
ficial shapes,  islets,  moss-clad  hil- 
locks, stone  lanterns.  The  lake  is 
full  of  a  water-plant  called  kohone, 
which  generally  bears  only  yellow 
flowers,  but  here  has  red  ones  as 
well. 

Toji. 

A  Buddhist  temple  was  first  erected  on 
this  site  in  the  middle  of  the  8th  century, 
but  was  converted  in  A,D.  794  into  a  place 
of  entertainment  for  envoys  from  China 
and  Korea.  Two  years  later,  it  reverted  to 
its  original  purpose,  and  being,  in  A.D.  82?}, 
bestowed  by  the  reigning  Mikado  on  Kobd 
Daishi,  became  the  head-quarters  of  the 
Shingon  sect  of  Buddhists  whose  doctrines 
that  great  saint  had  recently  introduced 
from  China.  The  buildings,  which  dated 
from  796,  were  burnt  down  in  1486.  The 
present  structures  date  fi-om  about  1610. 
It  was  close  to  this  temple  that  stood  in 
ancient  times  the  city  gate  called  Ragha-r 
inon,  the  scene  of  a  portion  of  the  legend 
of  the  Ogre  of  Oeyama  (see  Route  47). 
Another  legend  attaches  to  the  pagoda. 
This  edifice,  it  is  said,  after  completion, 
began  to  lean  to  one  side.  Kobo  Daishi, 
nothing  daunted,  prayed  that  it  might  lie 
restored  to  the  vertical  position,  and  forth- 
with the  pagoda  stood  straight.  A  mcnre 
rationalistic  version  of  the  story  is  that 
Kobo  Daishi  connected  the  tendency  of 
the  tower  to  lean  to  one  side  by  digging  a 
pond  on  the  other;  and  a  pond  full  of 
lotuses  is  shown  to  this  day  as  a  mute 
witness  to  the  truth  of  the  legend. 

Tourists  are  advised  to  visit  this 
temple  on  the  21st  day  of  the  month, 
when  the  festival  of  Kobo  Daishi  is 
held.    Otherwise  the  place  is  apt  to 


298 


Boute  43, — Kyoto, 


look  desolate,  especially  now  that 
the  disestablishment  of  Buddhism 
is  causing  all  but  a  few  of  the  most 
popular  temples  to  fall  into  neglect 
and  consequent  decay.  Most  of  the 
buildings  are  in  a  rude  style,  with 
mud  floors,  pillars  and  beams  co- 
loured red  with  oxide  of  iron,  and 
white  plaster  walls.  Several  of  the 
images  are  attributed  to  the  chisel 
of  Kobd  Daishi.  The  Keception 
Rooms  of  the  monastery  are  very 
handsome,  but  special  permission 
must  be  obtained  in  order  to  visit 
them. 

The  Sliliito  Toiiiple  of  Inari 
{Inari  no  Yasliiro),  on  the  road  to 
Fushimi. 

This  popular  Shinto  temple,  the  proto- 
type of  the  thousands  of  Inari  temples 
scattered  all  over  the  country,  was 
founded  in  A.D.  711,  when  the  Goddess  of 
B.ice  is  said  to  have  first  manifested 
lierself  on  the  hill  behind.  Kobo  Daishi 
is  said  to  have  met  an  old  man  in  the 
vicinity  of  Toji  can-ying  a  sheaf  of  rice 
on  his  back,  whom  he  recognised  as  the 
deity  of  this  temple,  and  adopted  as  the 
'Protector'  of  that  monastery.  Hence 
the  name  Inari,  which  signifies  *  Rice- 
mah,'  and  is  written  with  two  Chinese 
characters  meaning  'Rice-bearing.'  The 
first  temple  consisted  of  three  small 
chapels  on  the  three  peaks  of  the  hill 
liehind,  whence  the  worship  of  the  god- 
dess and  her  companion  deities  was 
removed  to  its  present  site  in  1246.  Inari 
is  said  to  have  assisted  the  famous  smith 
Kokaji  to  forge  one  of  his  historical  swords, 
and  to  have  here  cut  the  rock  with  it  iu 
order  to  try  its  blade  -a  legend  which 
:forms  the  subject-matter  of  one  of  the 
ilTo,  or  Lyric  Dramas.  Hence  this  temple 
is  regarded  with  special  reverence  by 
smiths  and  cutlers.  The  Inari  deities 
annually  visit  the  Shinto  temple  of  Ise, 
leaving  Kyoto  on  the  2V>th  April  and  re- 
turning on  the  20th  Ma.v,  the  journey 
being  performed  in  their  sacred  cars. 
The  best  time  to  visit  Inari  is  either  on 
the  9th  April,  wlien  the  annual  festival  is 
held,  or  on  the  days  of  the  Horse  and 
Serpent  in  each  month,  when  devotees 
xuHko  the  circuit  of  the  mountain  ( o  yama 
mm).  Streams  of  pilgiims  may  be  found 
circulating  up  and  down  all  night  long  on 
the  night  between  these  two  days. 

The  chief  entrance  is  by  the  great 
red  toi'ii  on  the  maiu  road,  then  up 
a  flight  of  steps,  and*  through  a  large 
gate  flanked  by  huge  stone  foxes  to 
the  haidcii^  or  oratory.  Thence  one 
comes  to   the    chief   chapel  (hmi- 


den),  passing  1.  the  ex-voto  shed  an^ 
r.  the  kagura  stage,  and  further  oix 
two  stone  foxes  on  pedestals,  pro- 
tected by  cages  to  prevent    tbemr 
from    being  defiled  by  birds.     Tlie- 
pillars  of  the  portal  of  the   chief 
chapel  are  plain  ;  but  the  rest  of  the 
walls  and  pillars  are  painted  red  or- 
white.     Curtains  {misu)  hang  down: 
in  front,  and  before  each  of  the  six 
compartments  is  suspended  a  larger- 
metal  mirror  about  18  in.  in  diame- 
ter.   Two  gilt  koma-inu  and  ama- 
inn  guard  the   extremities  of   the 
verandah.    They  have  bright   blue- 
manes,    and     on   the    legs,    locks 
of  hair  tipped  with  bright  green. 
Behind,    to  the  r.,    is  a  white  go- 
down  in  which  the  sacred  cars  ar& 
usually  kept.    They  are  celebrated 
for  the  great  value  of  their  decora- 
tions   in  gold,   silver,   copper,   and 
iron.     The    plain   building    to    the 
extreme    1.    is    the    temple    office 
(Sliamiisho) . 

A  path  to  the  l!  leads  up  to  a- 
second  level  space  where  stand 
various  insignificant  shrines ;  then 
up  another  flight  of  steps  to  a 
shrine  called  Ka%ni  no  Yashiro,. 
where  begins  what  is  termed  the 
Hora-meguri,  or  *  Circuit  of  the 
Mountain  Hollows,'  so  called  on  ac- 
count of  various  fox -holes  b^-  the 
waj*.  The  beginning  is  marked  by 
innumerable  small  red  toHi,  placed 
so  close  togellher  as  to  form  a  regular 
colonnade.  Kather  than  make  the 
entire  circuit,  visitors  pressed  for 
time  will  do  well  to  strike  off  r^ 
after  a  few  minutes  to  a  place 
where  there  is  a  little  tea-house 
(Sasayama-tei)  on  the  top  of  a 
minor  hill  commanding  a  good 
view.  Tliis  point  can  be  reached  in 
J  hr.  from  the  entrance  to  the 
temple  grounds.  The  entire  circuit- 
of  the  mountain  will  take  at  least 
1  hr.  On  tlie  way  are  passed  large 
stone  boulders  with  inscriptions,, 
and  walls  round  them,  and  numer- 
ous torii  in  front  of  each.  At  each 
of  these  *  boulder  shrines '  is  a  lai*ge 
tea-shed.  The  top  is  called  Ichd -no- 
mine, or  more  popularly    Snehiro^ 


r 


Inar 


ri.     TdfiiknjL     Sen-yuji.     San-ju-san -gen-do. 


299 


son.      One  descends  another  way, 

the    view  just   below    the   summit 

being  particularly  fine  towards  the 

S.,   including  Uji  with  its  river,  the 

Kizugawa,     Momoyama,    Fushimi, 

.Yawata,    Yamazaki,   and    on    the 

other  side  the  swamp  of  Ogura,  the 

Kamogawa,  the  Katsura-gawa,  and 

the  Yodogawa.     On  the  way  down 

are  a  shrine  called  Chdja  no  Jinjaf 

a  number  of  sacred  boulders  as  be- 

foife,    and    some    fox-holes    called 

O  Samba,  supposed  to  be  the  places 

in  which  the  vixens  give  birth  to 

their  young.     Just  above  the  latter, 

2  cho  off  the  road,  a  fine  view  of  the 

city  is  obtained.     The  path  is  good 

the  whole  way.     The  mountain  is 

celebrated  for  producing  the  best 

mushrooms  (viatsutahc)   in   Japan. 

The   streets  in  the  neighbourhood 

of   the  temple  are   crammed  with 

little  earthenware  dolls  and  effigies 

called  Fushimi  ningyb. 

Tof liknji,  one  of  the  chief  monas- 
teries of  the  Zen  sect,  was  founded 
by  Shoichi  Kokushi  in  the  13th  cen- 
tury.   It  is  noted  for  the  maple- 
trees  lining  both   sides  of  a  gully 
which  is   spanned  by  a  bridge  or 
gallery  called  Tsu-ten-kyd,  that  is, 
*the   bridge    communicating    with 
heaven.*     This  gallery  and  a  tower, 
in  the  roof    give    io    Tofukuji  an 
o^ginal  and    striking    appearance. 
Of    the    formerly    very    extensive 
buildings,  only  a  few  now  remain. 
The  temple    contains    some    good 
wooden  images,  and  a  number  of 
iakemonos  of    the    Five    HuAdred 
Bakan  by   the  famous  artist   Cho 
Densu,    who  , spent   several    years 
here  as  an  acolyte.    But  its  greatest 
treasure  is  a  huge  kakemaiio  by  the 
same  artist  of  Shaka's  Entry  into 
Nirvana  (Neliatizd),  24  ft.  by  48  ft. 
It  is  dated  1408,  when  the   artist 
was   60  years  old.     In  the  Apart- 
ments, which  were  rebuilt  in  1889, 
are  some  screens  by  Tosa  Mitsunobu, 
Kano  Eitoku,  and  Kano  ^lotonori, 
together  with  kakemonos   by   good 
artists. 

Sen-Tuji  lies  in  a  hollow    sur- 
rounded by  pine-clad  hills.    It  is 


remarkable  as  having  been  for  over 

six  centuries  (1244-1868)  the  burial- 
place  of  the  Mikados  ;  but  as  neither 
their  tombs  nor  tlie  various  treasures 
of  the  temple  are  shown,  there  is 
little  object  in  visiting  it.  The 
glimpse  which  can  be  caught  of  the 
mortuary  shrine  of  Komei  Tenno, 
father  of  the  present  Mikado,  shows 
it  to  be  handsome. 

The  chief  treasure  of  Sen- j uji  is  one  of 
Buddha's  teeth,  said  to  have  been  brought 
from  China  by  the  third  abbot,  Tankai, 
The  story  ffoes  that  as  soon  as  the  Buddha 
died,  a  demon  named  Soshikki  stole  this 
tooth  and  ran  away  with  it,  but  was  pur- 
sued by  the  god  Ida  Ten,  and  forced 
to  restore  the  precious  relic.  Sixteen 
centuries  later  he  presented  it  to  a 
Chinese  priest  to  whom  he  was  under  an 
obligation,  and  from  this  priest  it  passed 
into  Tankai's  hands.  It  is  kept  in  a 
beautifully  designed  reliquaiy  of  gilt 
metal  in  the  shape  of  a  pagoda,  about  3  ft. 
lugh,  the  upper,  part  being  of  Chinese, 
and  the  platform  on  which  it  stands  of 
Japanese  workmanship,  dating  from  the 
Ashikaga  period  (14th-16th  centuries). 
The  tooth  is  enonnous,  and  evidently  lie- 
longed  to  some  large  quadruped,  probably 
a  horse. 

The  insignificant  little  wooden 
bridge  passed  between  Tofukuji 
and  Sen-yuji  deserve  a  word  of 
mention.  It  is  called  Yume  no 
Uki'hashi,  or  the  Floating  Bridge 
of  Dreams,  and  was  the  place 
where,  on  the  occasion  of  an 
Imperial  interment,  the  fruit,  cakes, 
and  other  perishable  offerings  to  a 
dead  Mikado  were  thrown  away 
into  the  rivulet  below  as  the  proces- 
sion  inarched  slowly  at  midnight 
towards  the  place  of  sepulture. 

San-jfi-saii-gen-do,   the  Temple 

of  the  33,333  images  of  Kwannou, 

the  Goddess  of  Mercy. 

Founded  in  1132  by  the  ex-Kmperor 
Toba  who  placed  in  it  1,001  imatres  of 
Kwannim,  to  which  the  Empei-or  Go- 
Shirakawa  after\%'ards  added  as  many 
more  in  1165,  it  was  completely  destroyed 
with  all  its  contents  in  1249.  In  12««  the 
Kmperor  Kameyama  rebuilt  it,  and  filled 
it  with  images  of  the  Thousand-handed 
Kwannou  to  the  number  of  1,000.  Its 
dimensions  are  889  ft.  by  57  ft.  In  IGO-J 
the  Shogun  letsuna  restored  the  building, 
which  takes  its  name,  not  from  its 
length,  but  from  *he  thirty-three  sjiaces 
between  the  pillars,  which  form  a  single 
i*ow  from  end  to  end. 


800 


Route  43, — Kyoto, 


Few  temples  in  Japan  are  more 
impressive  than  this,  with  its  vast 
assemblage  of  gilded  images  rising 
tier  behind  tier.  Each  image  is 
6  ft.  high,  and  all  represent 
the  Eleven-faCed  Thousand-handed 
Kwannon.  There  are  1,000  of  these, 
the  total  number  of  33,333  being 
obtained  by  including  in  the  com- 
putation the  smaller  effigies  on  the 
foreheads,  on  the  halos,  and  in  the 
hands  of  the  larger  ones.  Three 
hundred  of  the  large  images  were 
executed  by  Kokei  and  Koei,  two 
hundred  byUnkei,  and  the  remainder 
by  Shichijo  Daibusshi.  I'hough  all 
represent  the  same  divine  person- 
age, it  will  be  found  that  in  spite 
of  the  general  resemblance,  no  two 
have  the  same  arrangement  of  hands 
and  articles  held  in  them.  The 
large  seated  figure  in  the  centre 
is  also  a  Kwannon,  while  standing 
round  it  are  Kwannon's  eight-and- 
twenty  followers  (Biishu).' 

Tradition  says  tliat  the  ex-Mikndo  Go- 
Rliirakawa, .  being  troubled  with  severe 
headaches  which  resisted  all  the  usual 
lemedies,  made  a  pilgrimage  to  the  temples 
of  Kumano  to  pray  for  relief.  He  was 
directed  by  the  gods  to  apply  to  a  cele- 
brated Indian  physician  then  resident  at 
a  temple  in  the  capital.  On  returning  he 
at  once  proceeded  thither, *and  engaged  in 
prayer  until  midnight,  when  a  monk  of 
noble  mien  appeared,  ami  infonned  him 
that  in  a  previous  state  of  existence  His 
Majesty  had  been  a_piou8  monk  of  Kiuna- 
no  named  Renge-bo,  who  for  his  merits 
had  Ijeen  promoted  to  the  rank  of  Mikado 
in  this  present  life ;  but  that  his  foimier 
8knll  was  lying  in  the  l)ottom  of  a  i-iver 
still  undissolved,  and  that  out  of  it  grew  a 
willow-tree  which  shook  whenever  the 
wind  ])lew,  thereby  causing  His  Majesty's 
head  to  ache.  On  awaking  from  this  vision 
the  ex-Mikado  sent  to  look  for  the  skull, 
and  having  found  it,  had  it  enclosed  in 
the  head  of  the  principal  Kwannon  of 
tbis  temi)le. 

It  used  foiTuerly  to  lie  the  ciifttom  for 
skilful  archers  to  try  how  many  aiTows 
they  could  shoot  from  one  end  to  the  other 
of  the  verandah  on  the  W.  front  of  the 
building  This  was  called  6-i/a-kasu,  or  the 
'  gi-eatest  iiuml^er  of  arroAvs.'  In  KWfi  a 
retainer  of  the  prince  of  Kisha  is  said  to 
have  won  the  prize,  8hfK)tiug  8,133  out  of 
15,053  arrows  right  to  the  end. 

The  grounds  of  the  Sau-ju-san- 
geu-do  will  shortly  contain  a  Fine 
Art  Museum  {BijtUsu-kican)^ .  to  be 


completed  in  1892.    Also  in  the  ssLxrtG 

enclosure  is  the  celebrated 

l^aibiitsii,  or  Great  Buddha. 

In  1588  Hideyoshi  built  a  temple  to  liold 
a  large  image  of  Roshana  Butsu,  the  GrnX 
of  Light,  in  imitation  of  Yoritomo,  wbc^ 
had  originated  the  project  of  constructinL^ 
a  Daibutsu  at   Kamakura.    The  tenif>le 
was  2110  ft.  from  the  ground  to  the  rid^^^e 
of  the  roof,  and  the  wooden  image  v(na» 
160  ft.  high.    Both  were  destroyed  hy  sua. 
earthquake  in  1596.    In  the  following  ye«tx- 
he  rebuilt  the  temple,  and  placed  in   ±ti 
the  famous  triple  image  of  Amida,  Kwan- 
non, and  Daiseishi,  which  he  caused  to  ib© 
removed  for  this  purpose  from  Zenkoji  ; 
but  after  his  death  his  widow  restored  it 
to  the  temple  at  Zenkoji,  and  set  aboiit 
the  construction  of  a  new  Daibutsu.    Bjr 
the  labour  of  several  hundred  workmen 
and  artisans,  a  huge  image  was  completecl 
up  to  the  neck ;  but  as  they  were  engaffed 
in  casting  its  head,  the  scaffolding  ac- 
cidentally took  fire,  and  all  efforts  to  ex- 
tinguish the  flames,  l)eing  ineffectual,  tbe 
temple  was  speedily  burnt  to  ashes     This 
disaster  occmTed  on  the    15th   January, 
16i'3;  but  no  attempts  to  repair  it  were 
^nade  until  leyasu,  in  pursuance  of  Ms 
policy  of  weakening  his  young  rival  Hide- 
yori  by  inducing  him  to  undert  ke  the 
reconstruction  of  famous  buildings  on  a 
scale  of  magnificence  calculated  to   ex- 
haust his  finances,  persuaded  him  and 
his  mother  that  due  regard  for  Hideyoshi's 
memory  imposed  upon  them  the  obliga- 
tion of  seeing  that  his  intention  of  rearing 
a  worthy  fane  to  Buddha  was  not  finally 
jfriistrated.     They  joyfully   adopted   the 
suggestion,  and  at  ouce  set   alx)ut   the 
restoration  of  both  image  and  building  on. 
the  same  colossal  scale  as  before.    By  the 
spring    of    J 614  both   were    successfully 
completed,    and    the   population    of'»the 
capital  and  sun-ounding  provinces  flocked 
in  crowds  to  witness  the  opening  cere- 
mony.   But  the  High  Priests  who,  with 
the  aid  of  a  thousand  bonzes  of  inferior 
gi-ade,  were  to  ])erform   the   dedicatory 
service,  had  hardly  taken  their  places  and 
commenced  to  repeat  their  liturgies,  when 
two  mounted  messengers  suddenly  arrived 
from  the  Shogun's  Resident,  with  orders 
to  interrupt  the  proceedings  and  forbid  the 
consecration.    The  disorder  that  ensued 
among  the  assemblage,  baulked   of  the 
sight  for  which  many  of  them  had  come  a 
long  distance,  and  ignorant  of  the  cause 
of  this  unexpected  termination  of  their 
holiday,  ended  in  a  riot  which  the  police 
were  unable  to  repress,  and  the  city  is 
snid  to  have  lieen  actually  sacked  by  the 
infuriated  crowd   of  country  people.    It 
afterwards  became   known    that  leyasn. 
had  taken  offence  at  the  wording  of  the 
inscription  on  the  great  l)ell,  into  which 
the  characters  forming  his   name   were 
introduced,  by   way  of  mockery,  as  he 
pretended  to  think,  in  the  phrase  Kokht 
anld,  *  May  the  state  be  peaceful  and  pro»> 


BuihuUn,     KdshdjL     Honhohiji. 


801 


' 


■ 


perous *  (ka  and  Id  being  tjie  Chinese  for 
ie  and  yam) ;  while  in  another  sentence 
•which  ran,  '  On  the  east  it  welcomes  the 
"brij^ht  moon,  and  on  the  west  bids  fare- 
^^ell  to  the  setting  sun,'  he  chose  to  dis- 
•cover  a  comparison  of  liimself  to  the 
lesser,  and  of  Hideyori  to  the  greater 
luminary,  from  which  he  then  inferred 
-«,n  intention  on  the  part  of  Hideyori  to 
attempt  his  destruction. 

The  dissensions  of  Hideyori' s  stnicture 
•were :  height  150  ft.,  length  272  ft.,  and 
<lepth  167i  ft.,  while  the  roof  was  sup- 
|3orted  by  92  pillars  of  from  4^  to  6s  ft.  in 
<liameter,  composed  of  timbers  bound 
together  by  stout  iron  rings,  one  or  two 
•of  which  have  been  preserved.  The  seated 
figure  of  the  Buddhgi  was  68§  ft.  high.  In 
1662  an  earthquake  destroyed  both  the 
building  and  the  image,  and  the  greater 
part  of  the  latter  was  melted  dowm  into 
•copper  coins.  In  1667  a  wtwden  image  of 
the  same  dimensions,  lacquered  a  bronze 
colour,  was  constructed  in  its  stead.  This 
was  damaged  by  lightning  in  1775,  but  re- 
stored, only  to  be  set  on  fire  again  by  the 
same  agency  in  1708  and  utterly  con- 
sumed. The  present  image  was  built  in 
1801  at  the  expense  of  a  public-spirited 
merchant  of  Osaka. 

The  Daibutsu  consists  only  of  a 
head  and  shoulders  without  a  body ; 
but  even  so,  it  reaches  to  the 
ceiling  of  the  lofty  hall  in  which  it 
is  kept.  The  material  is  wood.  The 
head  is  gilt,  but  not  the  shoulders. 
The  dimensions  are  stated  as 
follows : — 

Height    58  ft. 

Length  of  face 30  ,, 

Breadth  of  face 21  „ 

Length  of  eyebrow  ....     8  ,, 

Lengtli  of  eye 6  ,, 

Length  of  nose     9  „ 

Breadth  of  npstril    2  ,,    3  in. 

Lengtli  of  mouth 8  ,,    7  „ 

Lengtli  of  ear    12  ,, 

Breadth  of  shoulders  . .  43  „ 

Round  the  walls  hang  188  cheap 
modern  pictures  of  Kwannon  paint- 
ed on  paper,  each  inscribed  with  a 
fttanza  of  poetry.  There  are  also 
some  large  pieces  of  iron,  relics  of 
the  pillars  of  the  former  building. 
At  the  top  of  a  gallery  behind  the 
image  is  a  rude  altar  containing  a 
black  image  of  Fudo,  which  Hide- 
joshi  used  to  consider  as  his  guar- 
dian spirit  in  battle.  By  going 
round  this  gallery,  one  seetf  into  the 
inside  of  the  image,  which  is  hollow 


but  contains  a  quantity  of  beam- 
work. 

The  huge  Bell  already  alluded 
to  is  seen  on  quitting  the  Dai- 
butsu. It  is  nearly  14  ft.  high, 
9  in.  thick,  9  ft.  in  diameter,  and 
weighs  over  63  tons,  being  thus  one 
of  the  two  biggest  bells  in  Japan. 
Its  companion  in  size  is  at  Chion- 
in,  also  in  Kyoto.  That  at  !Nar& 
comes  third.  The  Daibutsu  bell 
hangs  in  a  new  belfry  dating  from 
1884,  the  ceiling  of  which  is  gaudily 
decorated  with  paintings  of  Bud- 
dhist angels. 

The  new  Shinto  shrine,  called 
Toyokiini  no  YashirOj  near  to  the 
belfry  on  the  1.  as  one  departs,  is 
dedicated  to  Hideyoshi,  who  was 
buried  on  a  hill  close,  by.  The 
handsome  gate,  which  is  an  old 
one,  was  brought  from  his  palace  of 
IMomoyama  at  Fushimi. 

Opposite    is  the   Mimi-ztiJca,    or 
Ear  Mound,   beneath  which  were 
buried     the     ears    and     noses     of 
Koreans  slain   in  the    war    which 
Hideyoshi  waged  against  their  coun- 
try   in   the   years   1592   and   1597. 
I  They  were  brought   home    by  his 
i  soldiers  instead  of  the  more  usual 
!  trophies  of  heads,  as  evidence  of  the 
exploits  performed  in  his  service. 

I       KOshoji,  a  large  temple  next  door 
I  to  the  Nishi  Hongwanji   (see  next 
I  page),  was  founded  in  the  15th  cen- 
'  tury,  but  the  present  buildings  date 
only  from  the  i8th  century.    The  in- 
terior of  the  building  is  28yds.  square, 
!  and  is  in  the  same  style  as  the  !Nishi 
;  Hongwanji.      In    the    Apartments 
I  are  to  be   seen   good  paintings  of 
storks  by  Kano  Eitei,  of  about  the 
year  1700,  and  a  suite  of  three  side- 
rooms  containing  paintings  by  ar- 
tists of  the  Shijo  school. 

Honkokliji,  close  to  the  Nishi 
Hongwanji  on  the  N.,  is  remarkable 
chiefly  for  the  vast  area  over  which. 
its  buildings  are  scattered,  and  for 
the  fact  that  it  was  the  flrst  monastery 
founded  by  Nichiren  when  he  e&- 
tablished  the  sect  which  bears  his 
name. 


d02 


Iloute  43. — Kyoto, 


Nishi  Hoii^Tnnji,  the  head- 
quarters of  the  Western  branch  of 
the  Hongwanji  sect  of  Buddhists,  is 
a  grand  massive  structure,  as  usual 
with  the  temples  of  this  sect.  The 
principal  gate  is  decorated  with 
beautifully  carved  designs  of  the 
chrj-santhemum  flower  and  leaf. 
The  wire  netting  covering  its  inte- 
Tior  part  is  placed  there,  as  in  a 
good  many  other  edifices,  in  order 
to  prevent  birds  from  building  their 
nests  among  the '  rafters.  The  ap- 
parently useless  wall  just  inside 
the  gate  ser\'es  the  purpose  of 
securing  privacy  for  the  temple  by 
shutting  out  the  view  from  the 
street.  The  large  tree  (a  Gingko 
bUoba,  Jap.  ichd)  in  the  courtyard 
is  supposed  to  protect  the  temple 
against  fire,  by  discharging  showers 
of  water  whenever  a  conflagration 
in  the  vicinity  threatens  danger. 
The  interior  of  the  main  building 
is  138  ft.  in  length  by  93  ft.  in 
depth,  and  the  floor  covers  an  area 
of  477  mats.  As  usual  in  the  tem- 
■  pies  of  this  sect,  the  nave  (gejin) 
is  perfectly  plain,  of  keyaki  wood, 
vrith  white  plaster  walls.  R.  and  1. 
of  the  chancel  are  two  spacious  cham- 
bers 24  ft.  by  36  ft.,  with  gilt  pillars 
and  walls,  decorated  with  the  lotus- 
flower  and  leaf.  In  them  hang 
large  kakenwnos  nearly  200  years 
old,  inscribed  with  invocations  to 
Amida  in  large  gold  characters  on  a 
dark  blue  ground  surrounded  by  a 
glory,  and  portraits  of  the  succes- 
sive Heads  of  the  sect.  The  front 
of  the  nave  is  completely  gilt,  and 
has  gilt  trellised  folding- doors  and 
sliding  screens  decorated  with 
snow  scenes,  representing  the  plum- 
tree,  pine,  and  bamboo  in  their  winter 
covering,  the  ramma  being  filled 
with  gilt  open-work  carvings  of 
the  peony.  The  cornice  is  decorat- 
ed with  coloured  arabesques.  In 
the  centre  of  the  chancel  (nai- 
jin)  is  the  shrine,  covered  with  gilt 
and  painted  carved  floral  designs. 
It  contains  a  seated  elhgy  in  black 
wood  of  the  Founder  about  2  ft. 
high,  said  to  be  from  his  own  hand. 


Before  it  stands  a  wooden  altar,  the- 
front  of  which  is  divided  into  small 
panels  of  open-work  flowers  and 
birds  against  a  gilt  back-ground. 
This  central  apartment  has  a  fine 
cornice  of  gilt  and  painted  wood- 
work, and  a  coffered  ceiling  with  the 
shippo  and  Juina  crest  on  a  gold 
ground.  The  dim  light  renders- 
much  of  the  detail  obscure.  The 
building  was  erected  about  1591  or 
1592,  and  the  decorations  have  been 
since  renewed  every  50  years. 

Next  to  the  main  temple,  but  of 
smaller  dimensions,  is  the  Kddo  or 
Amida-ddj  96  ft.  wide  by  87  ft.  in 
depth,  divided  in  the  same  way,  but 
having  only  one  apartment,  30  ft. 
by  36  ft.,  on  each  side  of  the  central 
chapel,  with  a  dead-gold  wall  at  the 
back,   and  a  coffered  ceiling  with 
coloured     decorations    on     paper. 
Fancy  portraits  of  Shotoku  Taishi 
and  the   *  Seven   Great  Priests   of 
India,  China  and  Japan,'  including 
Honen  ShOnin,  founder  of  the  Judo 
sect,  from  which  the  Shin  or  Hon- 
gwanji sect  is  an  offshoot,  hang  in 
those  two  apartments.    A  handsome 
shrine,  with  slender  gilt  pillars  and 
a  design  composed  of  the  chrysan- 
themum flower  and  leaf,  contains  a 
gilt    wooden    statuette    of    Amida^ 
about  3  ft.  high,   so  much  discol- 
oured by  age  as  to  look  quite  black. 
It  is  attributed  to  the  famous  sculp- 
tor Kasuga  Busshi.     Over  the  gilt 
carvings     of     tree-peonies     in    the 
ramma  are  carvings  of  angels  in  full 
relief.     A  sliding-screeu  close  to  the  ^ 
entrance   on    the   r.   of  the    altar,, 
painted  with  a  peacock  and  pea-hen 
on   a  gold  ground,   perched  on    a 
peach-tree  with  white  blossoms,  by 
one  of  the   Kano  school,  is   worth 
special  notice.     Application  should 
bo  made  for  permission  to  visit  the 
State  Apartments,  which  are  very 
fine.     On  the  way  in  are  some  slid- 
ing panels  by  Kano  Eitoku,  which 
were     brought     from     Hideyoshi's 
castle    at   Fushimi.      The    largest 
room  (Taimmjo)j  69  ft.  deep  and 
54  ft.  wide,  has  good  paintings  on 
the  walls  by  Kano  Hidenobu ;  the 


Nishi  and  Higashi  HongicanjL 


303- 


storks  in  the  ramma  are  attributed 
to  Hidari  Jingoro.  Next  comes  a 
small  room  with  bamboos  on  a  gold 
ground,  and  a  coffered  ceiling  with 
Horal  paintings,  by  artists  of  the 
Xano  school.  Another  room  has 
liirall-paintings  of  geese  in  all  posi- 
tions on  a  gold  ground.  It  must  be 
noted,  however,  tjhat  these  paintings 
are  on  large  sheets  of  paper,  which 
have  been  fixed  in  their  places  after 
having  been  executed  in  a  horizon- 
tal position. 

True  wall-paintin<?s,  thnt  is,  paintings 
executed  <>u  a  vertical  surtace,  are  extreme- 
ly rare  in  Japan,  the  only  well-authen- 
ticated examples  known  to  us  being*  the 
series  of  paintings  on  l,acquer  at  the  bade 
of  the  main  altar  in  the  temple  of  Kwan- 
uon  at  Asakusa  in  Tokyo,  those  on  plaster 
in  the  Kondo  of  the  mona^steiy  of  Horyuji 
iM>ar  Nara,  and  some  in  the  lower  storey  of 
the  pagoda  of  Toji. 

The  room  beyond  is  decorated 
with  chrysanthemums  on  the  walls, 
and  fans  in  the  compartments  of 
the  ceiling.  We  next  pass  through 
an  apartment  decorated  with  pea- 
cocks and  cherry-trees,  and  gilt 
carvings  of  the  wild  camellia  and 
phoenix  in  the  rmmna ;  then  a  room 
with  Chinese  landscapes  on  a  gold 
ground,  and  carvings  of  wistaria  in 
the  ravimtty  and  another  with  Chinese 
architectural  scenes  and  landscapes. 
These  form  the  suite  called  O- 
biroma,  or  Chief  Audience  Room,  and 
the  paintings  are  from  the  brush  of 
Hasegawa  Ryokei.  In  the  court- 
yard opposite  to  this  suite,  is  a  stage 
for  the  performance  of  the  No. 
Passing  a  small  room  decorated  with 
Chinese  hunting  scenes,  and  pro- 
ceeding along  a  corridor,  we  reach 
an  apartment  called  Taiko  Knbi- 
jikken  no  May  that  is,,  the  room 
where  Hideyoshi  used  to  inspect  the 
heads  of  his  opponents  killed  in 
battle,  also  from  the  castle  of  Fu- 
shimi,  with  drums  painted  on  the 
ceiling  and  gilt  open-work  carvings 
of  the  fi34ng  squirrel  and  grapes  in 
the  ramma. 

Leaving  the  Apartments,  we  cross 
a  small  court  to  the  gateway  known 
as  the  Clwhushi  Mon^  or  Gate  of 
the  Imperial  Messenger,  formerly 


sparkling  with  gold,  but  now  some- 
what faded.  The  carvings  are  at- 
tributed to  Hidari  Jingoro.  The 
figure  on  the  transverse  panels  is 
Kyo-yo  (Hsii-yu),  a  hero  of  early 
Chinese  legend,  who,  having  rejected 
the  Emperor  Yao's proposal  to  resign 
the  throne  to  him,  is  rejpresented 
washing  his  ear  at  a  waterfall  to 
get  rid  of  the  pollution  caused  by  the 
ventilation  of  so  preposterous  an 
idea ;  the  owner  of  the  cow  opposite 
is  supposed  to  have  quarrelled  with 
him  for  thus  defiling  the  stream,  at 
which  he  was  watering  his  beast. 
The  buildings  in  foreign  style  hard 
bythe  Nishi  Hongwanji,  just  out- 
side what  is  knowil  as  the  Daido- 
koro-Mon,  or  Kitchen  Gate,  are  a 
seminary  for  young  priests  and 
a  girls'  school,  both  under  the  con- 
trol of  this  temple,  and  both  im- 
parting a  modern  education.  If 
time  permits,  the  traveller  may  end 
his  inspection  of  the  Hongwanji  by 
going  over  the  Hi-tm-kaku,  or  Pavi- 
lion of  the  Flying  Clouds,  removed 
here  from  Hideyoshi's  Palace  of 
Momoyama  at  Fushimi.  In  one  of 
the  upper  rooms  is  a  sketch  on  a 
gold-paper  ground,  attributed  to- 
Kano  Motonobu  (but  more  probably 
by  Kano  Eitoku),  called  the  Gydgl 
no  Fuji,  or  Fuji  of  Good  Manners, 
because  the  outlines  can  hardly  be 
distinguished  unless  the  spectator 
takes  up  a  respectful  attitude  on 
the  floor. 

Hi^ashi  Hongwanji. 

This,  an  offshoot  of  the  Nishi  Hongwanji, 
was  founded  iu  1602,  and  destroyed  by  lire 
in  1S64  during  the  unsuccessful  attempt 
maxle  by  the  followers  of  the  Prince  of 
Choshu  to  seize  the  person  of  the  Mikado. 
The  new  ediiice  now  in  process  of  erection 
is  expected  to  be  completed  in  1892. 

Though  as  j-et  unfinished,  thi» 
temple  well  deserves  a  visit  on 
account  of  its  noble  proportions, 
and  as  showing  what  a  fine  Buddhist 
temple  looks  like  when  new.  When 
completed,  it  will  probably  be  the 
largest  Buddhist  temple  in  Japan. 
So  far  as  plan  and  style  are  con- 
cerned, the  orthodox  model  of  the 


604 


Route  43. — Kyoto. 


temples  of  this  sect  has  been  faith- 
fully adhered  to,  both  in  tlie  Daishi- 
doy  or  Founder's  Hall  (the  main 
building),  and  in  the  subsidiary 
Amida-db.  Note  the  splendid 
bronze  lanterns,  four  in  number,  at 
the  entrance.  The  wood  of  all  such 
portions  of  the  temple  as  are  meant 
ultimately  to  meet  the  eye  is 
keyaki ;  the  beams  in  the  ceiling 
are  of  pine.  There  are  some  good 
carvings  of  the  signs  of  the  zodiac, 
of  waves,  of  bamboos,  etc.  The 
chief  dimensions  of  the  main  build- 
ing are  approximately  as  follows : 

Length 210  ft. 

Depth    170  „ 

Height 120  „ 

Number  of  large  pillars . .  96 

„  tiles  on  roof. .  103,612 

Notwithstanding  what  has  often 
been  said  with  regard  to  the  decay 
of  Japanese  Buddhism,  the  rebuild- 
ing of  this  grand  temple  has  been 
and  continues  to  be  a  strictly  popu- 
lar enterprise.  All  the  surrounding 
provinces  have  contributed  their 
quota — vast  sums  in  the  aggregate 
— ^while  many  peasants,  considering 
gifts  in  kind  to  be  more  honourable 
and;  as  it  were,  more  personal 
than  gifts  in  money,  have  presented 
timber  or  other  materials.  The 
name  of  the  architect  of  the  main 
building  is  Ito  Heizaemon,  a  native 
of  Owari.  The  Amida-do  is  by  Ki- 
noko  Tosai,  a  citizen  of  Kyoto. 

Ketininji,  a  monastery  of  the  Zen 
sect,  founded  by  the  abbot  Eisai  in 
1203,  has  little,  from  a  tourist's 
point  of  view,  to  justify  its  local 
celebrity.  The  grounds  are  extensive, 
and  contain  numerous  suites  of 
apartments  for  the  use  of  tlie  monks, 
who  have  the  reputation  of  profound 
Buddhistic  learning.  .  A  fair  for  the 
sale  of  *  old  clo,'  is  held  here  on 
the  10th  of  evei7  month. 

From  the  name  of  tin's  temple  i'r  derived 
the  term  kenninJU  applied  to  fences  of  split 
bamboois  fastened  dose  together  against 
horizontal  laitens, 

Nislii  Otani  is  the  burial-place 
of  the  larger  portion  of  the  body  of 


Shinran  Shonin,  transferred  here  in 
1603  from  a  spot  now  included  withixi 
the  grounds  of  Chion-in.     The  stone 
bridge  spanning  the  lotus-pond,  is 
termed  Megane-hash%  from   its    re- 
semblance to  a  pair  of  spectacles. 
Several  of  the  ornamental  knobs  on 
the  balustrade  can  be  turned  round. 
A  flight  of  steps  leads  to  tlie  hand- 
some   main  gate,    inside  \YhicfaL   ]. 
stands,  as  usual   in  the  temples  of 
this    sect,    the    Taiko-dd,   a   hand- 
somely carved  two-storied  structure^ 
which  is  used  as  a  place  of  confine- 
ment for  refractory  priests,  and  re- 
ceives   its    name    from    the   drum 
(taiko)  which  they  are  set  to  beat  as 
a  penance.     There  are  some  hand- 
some bronzes  in  front  of  the  main 
temple,  a  new  building,  plain  out- 
side, but  with  a   sufficiently  hand- 
some interior,  a  striking  effect  being 
produced  by  the  restriction  of  gold 
ornamentation    to   the  vicinity   of 
the  altar.     A  gilt  figure  of  Amida 
stands  in  a  gold  lacquer  shrine. 

In  the  court  behind  is  an  office  for 
the  reception  of  the  ashes   of  mem- 
bers of  the   sect  from  all  parts  of 
the  country,  whose  relations  pay  to 
have  their  remains  deposited  with 
those  of  Shinran   Sbonin,   instead 
of  going  to  the  expense   of  a  monu- 
ment in  the  adjacent  cemetery.   The 
Kyoto  members,  on  the    contrary, 
are  interred  in  the  cemeter5\     Oppo- 
site is  the  oratory  in  front  of  the  tomb, 
which  is  so  concealed  behind  a  triple 
fence  as  to  be  invisible.     The  path 
up  the  hill  leads  through  the  ceme- 
tery to  the  W.  gate  of 

Kiyoniizii-dera. 

The  origin  of  this  temple  is  lost  in  the 
mists  of  anti(]uc  fable.    According  to  the 
legend,  the  novice  Enchin,  having  dreamt 
that   he    saw   a  golden    stream   flowing 
down  into  the  Yotloga  wa,  went  in  search 
of  it,  and  ascending  to  its  soiirce,  found 
there  an  old  man  sitting  under  a  tree, 
who  gave  his  name  as  Gyoei,  and  said : 
'  I  have  been  here  for  the  last  two  hundred 
years  repeating  the  invocation  to  Kwan- 
non,  and  waiting  for  you  to  relieve  me. 
Take  my  place  for  a  while,  that  I  may 
perform  a  journey  which  is  required  ci 
me.    Tliis  is  a  suitable  spot  for  the  erec^ 
tion  of  a  hermitage,  and  the  log  which 
you    see    lying  liere    wiU    supply   the 


Kitjomizu-dera,     Yasaha  Pagoda. 


305 


material  for  an  image  of  tho  Most  Com- 
passionate One,'  (i.e.  Kwannou).  With 
these  words  he  disappeared,  leaving  the 
novice  in  charge  of  tne  solitude.  After  a 
while,  finding  that  the  old  man  did  not 
return,  Knchm  climbed  a  neighbouring 
hill,  and  discovered  a  pair  of  shoes  lying 
on  its  summit,  from  which  he  inferred 
that  the  mysterious  old  man  was  none 
other  than  Kwannon  in  human  form,  who 
had  left  the  shoes  behind  on  re-ascending 
to  heaven.  He  now  detennined  to  make 
the  image  of  the  gotl,  but  foiind  his 
strength'  insufficient,  and  passed  seve- 
ral years  looking  at  the  log,  vainly  plan- 
ning how  to  overcome  the  difficulty . 
Twenty  years  had  elapsed,  when  one 
day  good  luck  guided  the  warrior  Sakanoe- 
no-Tamura-Maro,  who  was  in  pursuit  of  a 
stag,  t-o  this  very  spot.  While  he  was  rest- 
ing, fgnchin  represented  his  difficulties 
to  the  hunter,  who  was  struck  with  ad- 
miration at  the  untiring  devotion  of  the 
novice,  and  subsecpiently,  having  taken 
counsel  with  liis  wife,  gave  his  own  house 
to  be  pulled  down  and  re-erected  by  the 
side  of  the  cascade  as  a  temple  for  the 
image,  which  was  now  at  last  completed. 

A  steep  street  of  shops,  where 
little  earthenware  dolls  (Fushlmi 
ningyo)  of  every  variety  are  to  be 
had,  leads  up  to  the  temple,  which 
is  situated  in  a  striking  position  on 
the  hill-side  and  commands  a  justly 
celebrated  view  of  the  city.  The 
two-storied  gateway  at  the  top  of 
the  steps  dates  from  the  Ashikaga 
period,  and  contains  a  pair  of  huge 
Ni-o.  One  may  pass  either  through 
it,  or  tlirough  another  gate  higher 
up  which  abuts  on  the  three-storied 
Pagoda.  To  the  1.  of  and  beyond  the 
Pagoda  are  several  minor  cha- 
pels. The  visitor  then  passes  up 
through  a  colonnade  to  the  hon- 
do  or  main  temple,  whose  rough- 
hewn  columns  and  bare  floor  pro- 
duce an  unusual  impression.  In- 
deed .the  whole  aspect  of  Kiyomizu 
is  unique  and  original,  notwith- 
standing a  certain  dowdiness  which 
seems  to  have  settled  down  upon 
it.  Tlie  main  temple  is  dedicated 
to  the  Eleven-faced  Thousand-hand- 
ed Kwannon,  whose  seated  image, 
a  little  over  5  ft.  high,  is  contained 
in  a  shrine  that  is  opened  only  once 
in  thirty  three  years.  R.  and  1.  are 
images  of  the  Eight-and- twenty 
followers  of  Kwannon,  and  at  each 
end  of  the  platform  stand  two  of  the 


Shi-TennO.  The  shrine  at  the  E. 
end  contains  an  image  of  Bishamon,. 
who,  as  tradition  tells  us,  appeared 
to  Tamura-Maro,  in  company  with 
Jizo  (whose  image,  attributed  to  the 
sculptor  Enchin,  is  enclosed  in  the 
W.  shrine),  and  promised  him  aid  in 
his  expedition  against  the  Ainos  of 
N.E.  Japan.  Pictures  of  the  three 
hang  at  one  end  of  the  inner 
chapel.  The  building  is  190^  ft. 
long  by  88^  ft.  in  depth,  and  5:i 
ft.  in  height  from  the  platform.  It 
has  a  wooden  platform  in  front, 
called  the  butai  (dancing  stage), 
supported  on  a  lofty  scafiolding  of 
solid  beams,  and  two  small  pro- 
jecting wings  which  serve  as  or- 
chestra (gakuya).  An  open  hall 
full  of  ex-voto  pictures,  extending 
the  whole  length  of  the  front,  abuts 
on  the  dancing  stage.  To  it  suc- 
ceeds a  long  narrow  matted  corridor 
called  the  naijiuj  while  the  closed 
chamber  which  contains  the  shrines 
is  called  nai-naijin  ;  the  front  part 
of  this  is  sunk  below  the  floor  and 
paved  with  squared  stones.  Lights 
are  always  kept  burning  in  the 
temple,  and  worshippers  pass  in 
and  out  all  night.  A  feature  adding 
to  the  peculiar  aspect  of  the  place 
is  the  abyss  which  divides  the  main 
temple  from  the  Ohu-no-in  dedi- 
cated to  Kwannon,  which  is  built 
out  from  the  opposite  hill  on  piles. 
It  stands  on  the  site  of  Gyoei's  hut. 
Below  is  a  small  cascade  called  the 
Otoica  no  t<alci.  On  the  hill  to  tho 
1.  are  various  smaller  shrines. 

The  Yasnka  Pagodn,  five  storeys 
high,  is  worth  ascending  for  the 
sake  of  the  near  and  complete  view 
which  it  affords  of  the  city ;  but  the 
ladder-like  staircase  is  unpleasantly 
steep  for  ladies.  This  pagoda,  like 
many  others  in  Japan,  is  dedicated 
to  four  Nyorai,  namely,  Ho  jo  on 
the  S.,  Amida  on  tho  W.,  Ashuku 
on  the  E.,  and  Shaka  on  the  N. 
On  the  eight  panels  of  the  doors  are 
paintings  on  a  thin  coating  of 
plaster.  Of  the  four  images,  that 
of  Shaka  alone  is  old.     On  the  in- 


W6 


Route  43. — Kijoto, 


terior  walls  and  pillars  are  paint- 
ings of  various  Buddhist  deities. 

This  pa^roda  i'h  mid  to  have  been  founded 
hv  Shotoku  Taisbi  about  the  end  of  the 
'6th  cenlur}'.  but  another  account  makes  it 
date  from  679.  The  present  building  dates 
from  1618. 

Kodaiji,  noted  for  its  relics  of 
Hideyoshi,  belongs  to  the  Iliuzai 
branch  of  the  Zen  sect. 

Founded  in  A.D.  888,  it  underwent  mnny 
vicissitudeii,  and  was  relniilt  in  1605  by 
Hideyoshi's  widow,  in  order  that  services 
nii$rht  be  peiforraed  there  for  the  benefit 
of  the  souls  of  Hideyoshi  and  his  mother. 
In  1863  8ome  rdnins  set  the  principal  l)uild- 
ingson  fire,  because  it  was  announced  .that 
the  ex-Prince  of  Echizen,  whom  they  looked 
upon  as  an  enemy  of  the  Mikado's  party, 
was  about  to  take  up  his  (quarters  there. 
The  greater  part  of  the  buildings  pprish- 
ed  on  this  occasion ;  but  some  few  por- 
tions, together  with  the  fine  garden,  still 
remain. 

The  visitor  is  first  ushered  into 
the  Apartments,  which,  though  of 
of  modest  proportions,  contain 
some  good  works  of  art.  There  are 
gold  screens  by  Kano  Motonobu, 
Kano  Koi,  and  Hasegawa  Tohaku. 
One  by  Matahei  is  very  curious,  as 
representing  the  arrival  of  Korean 
envoys  at  Sakai  in  Japan,  while  a 
brilliant  but  anonymous  halccmono 
<lepicts  the  Chinese  emperor  Shin- 
no-Shiko.  There  are  also  various 
relics  of  Hideyoshi  and  his  wife 
— his  writing-box  in  mother-of-pearl 
the  black  lacquered  *  horse  *  on 
which   she  hung  her  clothes,  etc. 

From  the  Apartments  the  acolyte 
who  acts  as  cicerone  will  show  the 
way  to  the  Garden^  which  was  de- 
signed by  the  celebrated  esthete,  Ko- 
bori  Enshii.  Its  picturesque  effect 
is  much  heightened  by  the  two  lofty 
pine-clad  hills  that  rear  their  heads 
-over  the  trees  at  the  back.  We 
next  pass  up  a  gallery,  which  was 
brought  from  Hideyoshi's  palace 
-of  Momoyama.  Hideyoshi  used 
to  sit  on  the  little  square  in 
the  middle  of  this  gallery  to  gaze 
at  the  moon.  Then  one  comes 
to  the  Kaisan-doj  or  Founder's 
Hall,  the  painted  ornamentation 
•of  which  is  highly  original  in  style. 
The    ceiling   is   made    of  the  top 


of  Hideyoshi's  wife's  carriage, 
from  a  portion  of  the  roof  of  Uie 
war-junk  prepared  for  Hideyosbi's 
use  in  his  expeditions  against  Korea. 
The   four  panels  of  the  shrine  wero 
painted    by    Kano    Motonobu.       A 
curious  incense-burner  in  front  of 
the  little  altar  was  brought  from 
Korea  by  Kato  Kiyomasa,  and  is 
shaped     like     an     octopus.        The 
dragon  on  the  ceiling  is  by  Kano 
Eitoku.    From  the  Founder's  Hall 
we  i)ass  up  another  covered  gallery 
named  the  Gwaryd  no  Boka,  that  is, 
the  Corridor  of  the  Sleeping  Dragon, 
to  the    O   Tamaya^    or    Mortuary 
Chapel,   which  contains    a    seated 
effigy    of    Hideyoshi    in   a    shrine 
having  panels  of  black  lacquer  with 
designs  in  thin  gold  taken  from  his 
wife's  caniage.    The  hat  was  one 
given  to  him  by  the  Emperor    of 
China.     On  the  opposite  side  is  the 
effigy  of  his  wife  (Kita-no-Mando- 
koro)  in  the  gArb  of  a  Buddhist  nun. 
The    Thirty-six    Poets,    by     Tosa 
!Mitsunobu,  hang  round  the  walls. 
Four  sliding  screens  by  Kano  Moto- 
nobu,  much  injured  by  time,  are 
also  shown.    Note  the  gold  pattern 
on  the  black  lacquer  steps  inside 
the  altar.     It  represents  rafts  and 
fallen  cherr^'-blossoms  floating  down 
the  current  of  a  river.     The  way 
leads  down  the  gallery  again,  and 
so  out.      The  guide  may  offer  to 
take  the  traveller  up  to  the  Shigttre 
no  Chin  and  Karahasa  'no  Chin  on 
the  hill  behind ;  but  they  are  not 
worth  spending    time    over,  being 
mere  little  thatched  summer-houses, 
old  and  quite  abandoned. 

Shogrnii-znkA  is  about  570  ft. 
above  the  river. 

It  takes  its  name,  which  means  the 
GeneraliHsimoV  Mound,  from  the  tisdition 
that  when  the  Emperor  Kwammu  removed 
his  capital  to  its  present  situation,  he  buried 
here  the  efii^ry  of  a  warrior  in  full  armour, 
provided  with  a  bow  and  arrows,  to  act  as 
the  protecting  deity  of  the  new  city. 

This  eminence  commands  a  wide 
prospect  over  the  city  and  sur- 
rounding country,  up  to  the  monn- 
tains  bounding  the  province  of  Yami^ 


Shoyim-zuJca,     HiyasJd  Otani,     Gion, 


307 


shiroontheW.andN.  Just  below  are 
the  two-storied  gateway  of  Chion-in 
And  the  temple  of  Gion,  from  which 
Shijo  Street  can  be  traced  right 
across  the  city.  Above  the  Shijo 
bridge  are  the  Sanjo  and  Nijo 
bridges,  below  it  that  of  Gojo.  The 
high  mountain  with  a  clump  of 
trees  on  its  top  bearing  nearly  N.W. 
is  Atago-yama.  A  long  white  wall 
under  it  indicates  Ninnaji  or  Omuro 
Oosho,  to  be  recognised  also  by  its 
pagoda.  In  front  of  this  again  is  the 
Nijo  Palace.  By  following  the  line 
of  the  Nijo  bridge  we  perceive  the 
garden  of  what  was  formerly  the 
Palace  of  the  abdicated  Mikado,  and 
behind  it  the  Palace  of  the  reign- 
ing Mikado.  ■  A  little  W.  of  N.  is 
the  broad  bed  of  the  Kamogawa ;  at 
the  base  of  the  mountain  range  from 
which  this  river  issues  lies  the  temple 
of  Kami-Gamo,  beyond  w^hich  is  the 
mountain  road  to  Kurama.  At  the 
junction  of  the  Kamogawa  and 
Hirano-gawa  is  a  dense  grove  which 
conceals  the  temples  of  Shimo'Gamo 
and  Kawai.  The  summit  of  Hiei- 
zan  bears  N.E.  by  N.  Half-way  be- 
tween its  foot  and  the  spectator  lie 
Kurodani  with  its  pagoda  and  nu- 
merous buildings,  and  the  large  roof 
of  Shinnyo-do  with  its  pagoda 
further  \V.  Nearer  is  the  two- 
storied  gate  of  Nanzenji,  half -hidden 
among  the  trees.  A  little  S.  of  W. 
are  the  two  high  roofs  of  Nishi 
Hongwanji  and  the  single  large  hall 
of  Koahoji.  A  little  further  S.  is 
the  pagoda  of  Toji  beyond  the  rail- 
way station,  and  S.W.  in  the  far 
distance  are  Tenno-zan  at  the  end  of 
the  Western  Hills  (Nishiyaina), 
above  Yamazaki  station,  and  the 
Yodogawa  flowing  gently  along  its 
half-choked  bed  towards  the  sea. 
Prom  the  E.  brow  of  the  hill  the 
view  commands  the  Tokaidd  and 
the  railway  winding  round  the  base 
of  the  opposite  range. 

Nearer  than  Shogun-zuka  to  the 
city  proper,  is  Mariiyaina,  a  suburb 
almost  exclusively  occupied  by 
tea-houses — the  resort  of  holiday- 
makers  bent  on  dancing,  drinking, 


or  bathing.  Some  may  find  it  more 
convenient  to  visit  the  Higashi  Ota- 
ni, Gion,  and  Chion-in  temples  first, 
and  to  take  ISIaruyama  and  Shogun- 
zuka  afterwards. 

Higashi  Otani,  is  the  burial-place 
of  a  portion  of  the  remains  of  Shin- 
ran  Shonin,  founder  of  the  Monto 
or  Hongwanji  sect,  of  Kennyo  the 
founder  of  this  its  Eastern  branch, 
and  of  Kennyo's  successors  the 
later  abbots.  The  grounds  are 
extensive,  and  finely  situated  on  & 
hill-side  facing  Atago-yama  and 
Kurama-yama.  An  avenue  of  pine- 
trees  leads  up  to  the  gateway,  which 
is  decorated  with  good  carvings  of 
chrysanthemums.  The  chapel  (hon- 
do),  though  small,  is  a  glorious 
specimen  of  Buddhistic  art, — lovely 
in  its  rich  simplicity  of  gold  with  no 
other  colours  to  distract  the  eye.  On 
the  altar  is  a  wooden  statuette  of 
Amida  by  the  sculptor  Kwaikei.  In  a 
shrine  at  the  side  hangs  a  portrait 
of  Shinran  Shonin.  Observe  the 
*  wheel  of  the  law,'  repeated  nine 
times  on  the  frieze  above  the  ma{n 
altar.  A  flight  of  steps  behind  the 
chapel  leads  up  to  the  tomb,  in 
front  of  which  stands  a  beautiful 
gate  carved  by  Hidari  Jingoro.  The 
panels  at  the  sides  of  this  gate, 
originally  gilt,  represent  1.  the  carp 
ascending  a  cascade — the  symbol  of 
effort  and  success  in  life — and  r.  the 
lioness  casting  her  cub  down  & 
precipice  in  order  to  harden  it,  both 
favourite  motives  with  the  artists  of 
Japan.  On  the  top  of  the  tomb 
lies  a  remarkable  stone  called  the 
'  tiger-stone  '  (tora-ishi).  The  ar- 
rangements for  interring  members 
of  the  sect  are  similar  to  those  at 
the  Nishi  Otani  (see  p.  304).  In 
the  grounds  near  the  chapel  i^  a 
splendid  bronze  fountain,  lotus- 
shaped  with  a  dragon  rampant  atop. 
As  in  the  Nishi  Otani  temple,  so 
here  too  there  is  a  Taiko-db  for  the 
confinement  of  refractory  priests. 

fiion  no  Yashiro,  less  often 
called  Yasaka  no  Yashb'o,  stands 
close  to  Higashi  Otani. 


808 


Bonte  43. — Kyoto, 


This  Shinto  temple  is  said  to  have 
Ijeen  founded  in  A.D.  656  by  a  Korean 
envoy  in  honour  c.f  Busano-o.  Gion-ji 
Mras  the  name  given  to  a  Buddhist 
temple  dedicated  to  Yakushi  and.Kvran- 
non  which  stood  in  the  same  enclosure, 
and  by  popular  usage  the  name  Grion  came 
to  be  applied  to  the  ShintS  temple  as  well. 
Oiont  it  may  be  observed  for  the  sake  of 
those  familiar  with  Indian  Buddhism,  is 
the  Japanese  rendering  of  Jefacann 
Vikdroy  the  namo  of  the  park  or  monastery 
presented  to  Buddha  by  Anathapindaka. 

Though  widely  known  and  much 
frequented  by  worshippers,  this 
temple  produces  an  impression  of 
shabbiness.  The  chief  building 
(honden)  is  69  ft.  long  by  57  ft.  in 
depth,  and  is  roofed  with  a  thick 
layer  of  bark.  The  annual  festival 
takes  place  on  the  15th  June. 

Cllion-in,  the  principal  monastery 
of  the  Jodo  sect,  stands  on  a  hill  in 
Eastern  Kyoto  in  a  situation  recall- 
ing that  of  many  fortresses.  Near 
its  gate  in  Awata-guchi  is  the  cele- 
brated pottery  of  Kinko-zan.. 

This  temple  was  founded  in  1211 
l>y  Enko  Daishi,  also  knowfi  as  Hd- 
nen  ShSnin.  He  was  ]x)m  in  1133 
of  respectable  parents  in  the  province 
€jf  Mimasaka,  and  various  portents  are 
said  to  have  accompanied  his  birth. 
At  the  age  of  nine  he  was  entered  as 
a  pupil  at  a  seminary  in  his  native  pro- 
vince ;  but  his  teacher,  recognising  his 
exceptional  powers,  sent  him  up  to  the 
great  monastery  on  Hiei-zan  in  1 147,  witli 
ft  letter  containing  only  these  words:  'I 
send  you  an  image  of  the  gi'cat  sage 
liouju.'  On  the  letter  being  presented, 
the  priest  to  whom  it  was  addressed  asked 
where  the  image  was,  and  was  much 
astonished  when  the  child  alone  api)eared 
before  him.  But  the  young  novice  soon 
justified  the  implied  estimate  of  his  gi-eab 
intellectual  powers,  and  made  such  mpid 
progress  in  his  studies  that  at  the  end 
of  the  same  year  ho  was  judged  fit  to  Ik; 
admitted  to  the  priesthood.  The  prospect 
was  held  out  to  him  of  ultimately  obtain- 
ing the  headship  of  the  Tendai  sect,  but 
"he  preferred  to  devote  himself  to  the  study 
of  tneology,  and  finally  developed  a  special 
doctrine  of  salvntion,  or  the  road  to  the 
•Pure  Land,'  from  which  the  new  sect  was 
named  Jodo^  this  wonl  having  the  same  ' 
meaning  as  the  Sanskrit  Sukhacdfi  or 
*Pure  Land,'  the  heaven  of  Amida.  In 
1207  he  settled  at  Kyoi^o  near  the  site  of 
the  present  mcmastery,  and  there  breathed 
liis  last  in  A.D.  1212  at  the  age  of  79. 

TJhe  buildings  were  twice  destroyed  by 
fire  in  the  15tn  century  and  once  again  in 
the  beginning  of  the  16th.    loyasu  rebuilt 


the  monastery  in  1003,  but  it  was  burnt 
again  in  163;(,  with  the  cxcention  of  the 
two-storied  entrance-gate,  the  libraiy,  and 
the  Seishi-do.  Its  restoration  was  im- 
mediately commenced,  and  in  1630,  during 
the  reign  of  lemitsu,  the  whole  was  com- 
pleted. 

A  broad  avenue  between  banks 
planted  with  cherry-trees  leads  up 
to  the  main  entrance,  or  Savimcni^ 
a  huge  two-storied  structure  81  ft. 
by  37^  ft.,  the  total  height  from  th& 
ground  being  80  ft.    A  staircase  oa 
the  S.  side  gives  access  to  the  upper 
storey,  which  contains  images    of 
Shaka,  with   Sudatta  and   Zenzai 
Doji  on  his  r.  and  h,  and  beyond 
them  on    each   side    eight   Bakan 
in  elaborate  dresses,  all-  about  life- 
size,  the  work  of  a  carver  of  Bud- 
dhist images  named  Koyu.  The  cor- 
nices and   cross-beams  are    richly 
decorated  with  coloured  arabesques, 
geometrical    patterns,    and    fabu- 
lous animals.    The  ceilings,  w^hich 
lose  their  effect  by  being  too  low, 
have      dragons      and    angels     ou 
a  yellow  ground.    The  gallery  out- 
side commands  a  charming  view  of 
the  city  through  the  pine-tree  tops, 
while  to  the  N.   towards  Hiei-zan 
the  prospect  is  wonderfully  beauti- 
ful.     At    the     S.    end     there    is 
another  pretty  view  of  the  densely 
wooded  hills.     Two  flights  of  steps, 
one  steep,  the  other  rising  gentlj'-, 
conduct    us    to    the    great    court, 
and    to   the  front  of    the    Ilonddy 
or  ^lain   Temple.     On  the  r.,  on   a 
small  elevation    among    the  trees, 
stands    the    bell-tower,    completed 
in  IBIS,  containing  the  Gj-eat  Belly 
height     10.8    ft.,    diameter    9    ft., 
thickness    9h    in.,    weight    125,000 
catties    (nearly    74  tons),    cast    in 
1633.   The  Hondo,  which  faces  S.,  is 
167  ft.  in  length  by  138  ft.  in  depth, 
and  94^  ft.  in  height  from  the  ground, 
thus  being  the  largest  building  of 
the     kind  in  Kyoto.      It  is  dedi- 
cated to  Enko  Daishi,  whose  shrine 
stands  on  a  stage,  called  the  Shu- 
mi-dan,     at     the      back     of     the 
chancel,  within  a  space  marked  off 
by  four  tall  gilt  pillars.    The  gilt 
metal    lotuses     in     bronze    vases. 


Chion-in,     Awata  Palace, 


809 


which,  stand  before  the  front  pillars, 
reach  a  height  of  21  ft.  from  the 
floor,  being  nearly  half  the  height 
of  the  building.  The  dimensions 
and  the  confinement  of  decoration 
to  this  single  part  render  this 
interior  very  effective.  On  the  W. 
of  the  chief  shrine  is  a  second  con- 
taining memorial  tablets  of  leyasu 
and  his  mother  and  of  Hidetada, 
while  on  the  opposite  side  (E.)  are 
Amida  in  the  centre  and  the  memo< 
rial  tablets  of  successive  abbots. 
Under  the  eaves  of  the  front  gallery 
is  an  umbrella,  said  to  have  flown 
thither  from  the  hands  of  a  boy 
whose  shape  had  been  assumed  by 
the  Shinto  god  of  Inari,  guardian 
deity  of  this  monastery. 

!Bast  of  the  Main  Temple  is  the 
liibrary,  containing  a  complete  copy 
of  the  Buddhist  canon.  Behind 
the  Main  Temple,  and  connect- 
ed with  it  by  a  gallery,  is  the 
.Shueidoy  containing  two  good  altars, 
one  of  which  holds  Amida  by 
Eshin  Sozu,  with  Kwannon  and 
Seishi  r.  and  1.,  the  other  a  very 
large  gilt  Amida  by  the  brothers 
Kebunshi  and  Kebundo.  To  the  r. 
of  the  big  image  sits  Monju  in  the 
costume  of  a  priest.  After  viewing 
these,  one  is  shown  over  the  Goterij 
or  Palace  built  by  lemitsu,  which 
is  divided  into  Jwo  parts,  called  re- 
spectively the  O'Hojd  and  Ko-Hojo. 
The  decorations  on  the  sliding 
screens  by  artists  of  the  Kano 
school  arfe  very  fine.  There  are  two 
rooms  painted  with  cranes  and 
pine-trees  by  Naonobu ;  then  other 
rooms  with  pine-trees  only,  by 
Naonobu  and  Nobumasa,  once 
occupied  by  the  Mikado.  At 
the  place  where  the  sets  of  apart- 
ments meet  is  a  wooden  door 
with  a  cat,  much  admired  by  the 
Japanese  because  it  appears  to 
front  the  spectator  from  whatever 
point  of  view  he  may  observe  it. 
One  fine  room  by  Eitoku  has  snow 
scenes,  unfortunately  somewhat 
faded.  The  next  room,  also  adorned 
with  snow  scenes,  was  the  reception 
room  of  the  Imperial  Prince  who 


acted  as  high  priest  (Kwacho-nO" 
Miya).  The  Sixteen  Bakan  in  the 
next  room  to  this  are  by  Nobumasa. 
Returning  to  the  back  of  the  O- 
Hojo,  we  reach  a  ^mall  eight-matted 
room  decorated  by  Naonobu  with  the 
plum  and  bamboo,  which  is  called 
Miya  Sama  no  o  Tokudo  no  Ma^  that 
is,  *the  room  in  which  the  Prince  was 
initiated  into  the  priesthood.*  The 
chrysanthemums  in  the  room  next 
to  this  are  by  Nobumasa,  by  whom 
too  are  the  celebrated  sparrow  (nuke- 
suzume)  which  flew  through  the 
screen  after  it  was  painted,  and  the 
i-naori  no  sagi,  or  *  egret  in  the  act 
of  rising.'  In  the  verandah  are  a 
pair  of  wooden  doors  painted  with 
pine-trees,  which  are  said  to  have 
been  so  life-like  as  to  exude  resin. 
After  these  come  rooms  by  Tan-yii, 
with  willow-trees  and  plum-blossoms 
covered  with  snow.  The  monastery 
is  rich  in  MSS.  which,  however,  can 
only  be  seen  by  making  application 
through  the  city  authorities.  The 
tomb  of  Enko  Daishi  is  situated 
further  up  the  hill,  and  is  reached 
by  ascending  the  steps  E.  of  the 
Hondo.    Close  to  Chion-in  is  the 

Awata  Palace  (Aivata  no  Goten), 

It  was  first  built  as  a  place  of  retirement 
for  the  Emperor  Seiwa  in  A.D.  879,  after 
his  abdication  of  the  throne.  He  died  here 
in  the  following  year.  The  present  build- 
ings are  of  more  modem  date. 

The  Apartments  have  sliding 
screens  by  artists  of  the  Kano 
school, — Eitoku,  Mitsunobu,  Moto- 
nobu,  etc. — some  much  faded, 
others  beautifully  preserved.  There 
are  also  beautiful  gold  folding 
screens  by  Tankei  Moriyoshi,  Boku- 
shinsai,  and  others.  Several  of  the 
wooden  doors  connecting  the  various 
suites  have  quaint  coloured  paint- 
ings of  the  cars  (dashi)  used  at  the 
Gion  festival.  The  garden  was 
planned  by  Soami. 

On  the  way  to  Nanzenji  one 
passes  whdt  looks  like  a  railway, 
but  is  really  only  a  portage  between 
the  two  sections  of  the  Lake  Biwa 
Canal,  where  the  boats  which  navi- 
gate on  either  side  are  placed  on 


810 


Route  43. — Kyoto. 


tracks  and  rolled  along  for  a  few 
hundred  yards.  Through  the 
grounds  of  Nanzenji,  too,  passes 
the  aqueduct  that  conveys  water 
from  Otsu  to  Kyoto,  a  red  brick 
structure  whose  arches  rather  add 
to  than  deteriorate  from  the  pic- 
turesqueness  of  the  place. 

Nanzenji. 

This  temple  of  the  Rinzai  division  of 
the  Zen  sect  originally  belonged  to  Mii- 
dera  at  5tsu;  but  about  12B0  the  ex- 
Emperor  Kameyama  appropriated  it  for 
his  own  residence,  and  in  1289  converted 
it  into  a  monastery  of  the  Zen  sect.  The 
present  main  temple  was  built  by  leyasu 
in  1606.  The  two-storied  gateway  facing 
W.,  66  ft.  by  32  ft,  was  built  in  1628  by  Todo 
Takatora,  prince  of  Tsu  in  Ise,  at  the  cost 
of  a  year's  revenue.  The  famous  robber 
Ishikawa  Goemon  is  said  to  have  made 
his  residence  in  the  gate-house  which  pre- 
ceded the  present  building. 

The  Hatto,  as  the  main  temple  is 
called,  produces  a  somewhat  strik- 
ing eifect,  on  account  of  its  mixture 
of  richness  and  simplicity,  the  dark 
blue  tiled  floor  picked  out  with 
white  and  the  plain  brown  wooden 
columns  contrasting  with  the  rich 
red  and  black  altar  and  the  gold  of 
the  images  enthroned  aloft  thereon. 
These  images  represent  Shaka,  Fu- 
gen,  and  Monju,  flanked  by  the  Ni-6 
lacquered  with  vermilion  brought 
from  Korea,  as  were  also  the  two 
bronze  bowl-shaped  gongs  in  front. 
£.  of  the  altar  are  the  original 
founder  of  the  Zen  sect  (the  Chinese 
Hui-k'o),  Daruma,  Binzai  Zenji, 
originator  of  the  subdivision  of  the 
Zen  sect  called  after  his  name,  and 
Nannin  Kokushi,  the  *  second 
founder,*  or  restorer  of  the  mon- 
astery in  modem  times.  In  the  un- 
usually large  two-storied  gate-way 
are  Shaka  and  the  Sixteen  Rakauy 
the  colours  in  good  preservation. 
The  cornice  and  wall-plate  are  gor- 
geously decorated  with  coloured 
diapers  and  arabesques.  On  the 
cross-beams  are  painted  the  unicorn 
(Jcirin)  and  flying  dragon ;  on  the 
ceiling,  the  phoenix  and  angels  in 
subdued  colours  on  a  pale  yellow 
ground.  The  whole  interior  presents 
a  magnificent  example  of  this  style 


of  decoration.  In  two  small  black 
lacquered  shrines  are  kept  effigies 
of  Takatora  and  leyasu. 

Eikwando,  a  temple  of  the  Jodo 
sect  on  the  flank  of  Higashi-yamck,. 
is  specially  worth  visiting  in  tl^e 
lotus  or  the  maple  season ;  and 
those  interested  in  Buddhist  legends 
will  like  to  see  the  famous  image 
coHedi  Mi-kaeri  no  Amidaj  or  Amida 
Looking  over  his  Shoulder. 

Originally  founded  about  the  middle  of 
the  9th  century,  this  temple  was  restored, 
by  the  priest  Eikwan  (b.  1032,  d.  1111), 
whence  its  present  name. 

The  main  temple,  in  which  the 
image  stands,  was  repaired  about 
ten  years  ago  in  handsome  style. 
The  image  is  2^  ft.  high,  the  drapery 
well-rendered,  the  head  half  turned 
round  to  the  1.  as  if  looking  back- 
wards. It  is  kept  enclosed  in  a 
shrine  on  the  main  altar,  and  those 
desirous  of  seeing  it  must  apply  to 
the  priest  in  charge.  The  image 
will  then  be  unveiled  with  some 
little  pomp  and  circumstance,  lights 
lighted,  and  a  bell  rung,  while  the 
priest  mounts  up  on  the  altar  beside 
the  image  and  recites  the  legend. 
A  curtain  is  then  drawn  up,  and  the 
image  stands  revealed  in  a  dim  reli- 
gious light. 

The  legend  is  that  Eikwan,  who  used 
to  spend  his  time  in  walking  round  the 
image  repeating  the  formula  Namu  Amida, 
one  day  heard  his  name  called  twice  or 
thrice,  and  looking  round  perceived  the 
image  with  its  f  a«e  turned  in  h\p  direction* 
and  so  it  has  remained  fixed  until  this 
day.  Eikwan*8  own  statue  is  one  of  those 
placed  to  the  r.  of  the  altar  and  a  little 
behind  it,  so  that  Amida  now  perma- 
nently looks  in  his  direction.  A  sequel  to 
the  legend  says  that  a  certain  Daimyd, 
Lord  of  Akashi,  having  doubted  the 
imi^e's  power,  struck  it  on  the  r.  side  in 
order  to  see  what  would  happen,  when 
blood  flowed  from  the  wound  down  on  to 
its  breast. 

Knrodani  is  a  monastery  of  the 
Jodo  sect,  beautifully  situated  on 
the  side  of  a  hill. 

It  stands  on  the  spot  where  the  founder, 
Honen  Shdnin,  built  his  humble  cabin  on 
abandoning  the  Tendai  school  of  Hiei-san, 
and  is  named  after  the  *  black  ravine '  od 
that  mountain,  where  he  had  previondy 
resided.    The  monastery  of  Kurodani  mw 


Kurodanu 


811 


b«^un  at  the  end  of  the  13th  century,  and 
gradual  additions  were  made  until  it  was 
completed  in  the  beginninsr  of  the  16th. 
After  being  destroyed  by  fire  and  rebuilt 
two  or  thi-ee  successive  times,  the  whole 
establishment  was  re-erected  in  the  latter 
part  of  the  18th  century.  ■  The  chief  his- 
torical interest  of  Kurodani  is  its  connection 
With  the  true  aod  touching  stoiy  of 
Kuniagai  Xaozane  (see  p.  42),  who  here  ex- 
cbanfred  the  sword  of  the  soldier  for  the 
xnonk*s  rosary  and  life-long  penance. 

In    front    of    the    main    temple 
are    two    beautifully  _  trained  pine- 
trees, — one    called    Ogi  iio   Matsic 
because    fan-shaped, "  the  other  to 
the    r.,    Yoroi-kali^-nuUsu    because 
Kaozane  is  said  to  have  hung  up 
bis  armour  on  it.     The  altar  of  the 
main  temple  is  a  truly  grand  mass 
of   gold,  with   a  gold  baldachin  in 
tbe  centre,  while  all  round  hang 
beautiful  silk  banners  (maru-bata) 
and  the  metal  ornaments  known  as 
Iceman,  which  represent  the  head- 
dresses of  fairies.      A    richly    gilt 
shrine   contains    the   effigy  of  Ho- 
nen    Shonin,    carved    by    himself 
in  1207,  and  first  brought  to    this 
monastery  in  1609 ;  it  is  a  seated 
wooden     figure     with     the     paint 
rubbed    ofl    by    frequent  cleaning. 
Two   long  lacquered   boards,    with 
texts   containing  the   fundamental 
truths    of    the    sect,    hang  on  the 
pillars  r.  and  1.  of  the  altar.    Behind 
the  altar  in  the  gallery  is  a  large 
bold  picture  of  Seishi  Bosatsu,  called 
liappd    shdmen,    because    the    eyes 
seem  to  look  straight  at  the  beholder 
wherever  he  stands.  It  is  by  Tansaku. 
Some  very  large  and  splendid  hake- 
vwnos  are  hung  up  in  this  temple 
from    time    to    time.      One    is    a 
painted  maiidara,  that  is  to  say,  a 
representation    of     the     Buddhist 
paradise  with  its  complicated   ar- 
rangement of  *  many  mansions.'  It 
is  a  modern  copy  of  a  very  celebrated 
piece  of  embroidery  in  lotus  threads 
by  Taema  Chujo-Hime.     The  other, 
dating  from  1669,  is  embroidered, 
and  is  a  magnificent  specimen  of 
that  art.    It  represents   Buddha's 
Entry  into  Nirv&na  (Nehanzd), 

In  the  Apartments,  which  are  fine 
^uid  spacious,  a  number  of  works  of 


art  are  preserved.  There  are  some, 
fine  black  and  gold  sliding  screens 
by  Kubota  Beisen  representing  a  ter- 
rific dragon,  a  folding  screen  by  Tosa- 
no-!Mitsuoki  with  scenes  from  the 
Genji  Moiiogatarij  a  curious  kake- 
ino7io  of  the  mourning  for  Honen 
Shonin  by  his  disciples,  a  grotesque 
black  statuette  of  Jurojin  by  Hidari 
Jingoro,  a  remarkable  kakenwno 
of  50  Buddhas  whose  bodies  and 
halos  turn  out  on  inspection  to  bo 
nothing  but  the  Chinese  characters 
Namtt  Amida  Butsu  constantly  re- 
peated, a  gilt  statue  o^  Amida  by 
Esjiin,  and  round  the  walls  of  the 
same  room  the  whole  biography  of 
Honen  Shonin  in  a  set  of  minutely 
and  brilliantly  painted  kakemonos  by 
an  unknown  artist.  In  another  room 
is  enshrined,  in  a  richly  wrought  gilt 
case,  a  noteworthy  kakenwno  of  Jiza 
submitting  to  be  burnt  in  order  to 
save  others  (Yatano  Jizo).  There  are 
also  some  old  kakemonos  by  Chinese 
artists,  a  black  image  of  Shinran 
Shonin  by  himself  at  the  age  of  35, 
and  in  a  separate  room  a  kakeirumo 
of  Naozane,  together  with  his' rosary, 
his  enormous  rice-pestle,  and  his 
tremendously  long  and  heavy  sword. 
No  wonder  that  the  hero  is  alleged 
to  have  been  7  ft.  8  in.  in  stature. 
Next  come  more  images — Amida 
by  Jikaku  Daishi  with  Fudo  and 
Benten,  and  beyond  these  a  kake- 
mono of  the  25  Bosatsu,  Amida  in 
the  middle  with  rays  of  light- 
streaming  from  his  eye.  Behind 
the  Apartments  lies  a  pretty  garden, 
the  pond  meandering  through 
which  is  called  Yoroi-sute  tvo  IkSy 
because  Naozane  is  said  to  have 
thrown  his  armour  into  it. 

On  quitting  the  temple,  the  visi- 
tor should  glance  in  1.  at  the  fine 
large  gilt  image  of  Amida  by  Genshi 
Sozu  in  the  lesser  shrine  dedicated 
to  that  deity.  Behind  this,  at  a 
little  distance,  is  the  graveyard 
where  Naozane  and  Atsumori  lie 
buried.  The  Kumagai-do,  dedicated 
to  the  memory  of  the  former,  is  not 
wbrth  visiting,  neither  are  the  graves* 
One  may,  however,  on  the  way  to 


312 


Boiite  43. — Kyoto, 


the  next  sight,  the  temple  of  Shin- 
nyo-do,  walk  through  the  cemetery, 
which  is  extensive  and  prettily 
situated  on  the  side  of  a  hill 
crowned  by  a  pagoda,  and  contains 
several  good  large  bronze  Bnddhas. 
Most  of  the  graves  are  those  of 
Kyoto  trades-folk. 

Shiniiyo-doy  a  large  temple  of 
the  Tendai  sect,  has  on  its  high 
altar  an  image  of  Amida  attributed 
to  Jikaku  Daishi.  The  inscription 
in  the  tablet  over  the  entrance  is 
by  Kobo  Daishi. 

The  characters   on  this  tablet   arc,    or 

should  be,  -1^  fSi  ^^  Shin-ni/o^lo.  But  the 
middle  one  is  not  perfectly  formed,  whence 
the  proverb  Ksbf)  mo  /ude  no  af/nmari, 
'Even  Kobo  BHiKhi  sornftimes  wrote 
•wrong,*  as  we  say  that  *  Homer  -nods.' 
Kdbo  Daishi,  be  it  remarked,  wtts  as 
famous  for  his  calligraphy  as  for  his  piety 
and  intellectniil  and  physical  vigour. 

Yosbida  no  Yashiro  is  an  ancient 
Shinto  temple  prettily  situated  on 
a  hill-sidc.  It  is  octagonal,  a  form 
seldom  seen  in  Shinto  temples,  and 
is  painted  white  and  vermilion. 

Ginkakllji,  properly  Jishdji,  is  in 
the  viU.  of  Jodoji-mura,  out  of  the 
N.  E.  end  of  Kyoto  at  the  base  of  a 
xangjB  of  hills  forming  a  spur  of 
Hiei-zau. 

In  1479  Ashika^.'  Yoahimnsa,  after  his 
abdication  of  the  Shoj^iin's  dignity,  built 
him;sclf  a  country  house  here,  the  wall  of 
which  extended  asfar  as  the  hill  on  which 
stands  Shinnyo-(lo.  He  is  said  to  have 
had  that  temple  removed  because  it  stood 
in  his  way,  l)ut  afterwards  repenting  of 
the  act,  to  have  restored  it  to  its  original 
Bite  at  liis  own  experiso.  The  two-storied 
Ijuildiuar,  called  Qinhiku  (Silver  Pavilion), 
was  a  summer-house  in  the  garden  of  his 
princii)nl  reception  hall,  built  in  imitation 
of  the  Khihiht,  or  Golden  Pavilion,  of  one 
of  his  predecessors  (see  p.  292).  The 
garden  was  designed  by  Soami.  It  was 
at  Giukakuji  that  Yoshimasn,  with  So- 
ami and  Shuko,  his  favourites,  practised 
tlie  tea  ceremonies,  which  their  patronage 
elevated  almost  to  the  rank  of  a  flno  art. 

The  visitor  is  first  shown  over  the 
Apartments,  the  artist  of  which  par 
excellence  is  Buson.  His  sliding 
screens  are  all  either  black  and 
white,  or  else  in  the  very  pale- 
coloured  style  called  iLsu-zaisliiki. 
After  the  rooms   adorned   by   his 


brush  comes  one  with  an  image   of 
Yoshimasa  in  priestly  robes,  rather 
black  with  age  but  startlingly  life- 
like, and  next  a  tiny  tea-room,  tlie 
first  in  Japan  built  in  accordance 
with  the  canon  prescribing  4^  mats 
as  the  proper  size  for  such  rooms. 
It  has  some  very  sketchy   sliding 
screens  by  Soami  and  Okyo,  and  a- 
sketch  of  plum-blossoms  by  H5gen 
Motonobu — so  slight  that  none  but 
an  enthusiastic  devotee  of   the  tea 
ceremonies  is  likely  to  appreciate 
it.      One    is    then    led    into    the 
Garden  which  produces  a  charming 
efEect,   derived    in    part  from    the 
high,    thickly    pine-clad    hill    be- 
hind, lending  it  a  really   natural 
aspect.      The      curiously      shaped 
heap  of  white  sand  seen  on  enter- 
ing   the    garden    is     called     Gin 
SliadaUy  the  Silver  Sand  Platform. 
Here   Yoshimasa  used  to  sit  and 
hold  esthetic   revels.    The  smaller 
one  behind  is  called  the  Kd-getsu- 
daiy  or  I^Iound  Facing  the   Moon, 
where  he  used  to  moougaze.    There 
is  a  lake  of  course,  as  in  all  these 
gardens,  and  as  usual  each  stone, 
each  bridge,  each  tree  of  any  size 
has  its  name.      The  rill  is  called 
Sen-getsu-se?if  or  the  Moon-Washing 
Fountain;    a  stone  in  the  pond  is 
the   Stone  of  Ecstatic  Contempla- 
tion ;  a  little  bridge  is  the  Bridge  of 
the  Pillar  of  the  Immortals,  etc., 
etc.    The  Pavilion  (Gmkaku)  is  so 
dilapidated  as  to  be  no  longer  worth 
visiting.  Enquiry  shows  that  it  never 
was  really  coated  with  silver,  as  its 
name     would     imply,     Yoshimasa 
having  died  before  he  had  got  so 
far.    A  visit  to  this  place  generally 
ends  by  the  priest  who  acts  as  guide 
offering  the  visitor  tea  in  the  cJia- 
no-yu  style. 

8kimo-6amo. 

This  ancient  Shinto  temple,  dedicated 
to  Tamayori-hime  under  the  name  of 
Mioya-no-kami,  was  founded  in  A.D.  677. 
It  was  one  of  the  twenty-two  chief  temples 
of  the  Empire,  and  is  still  one  of  those 
which  are  maintained  at  the  expense  of 
the  State. 

This  temple  stands  in  a  splendid 
grove  of  patriarchal  maples,  ciypto- 


ShimO'Gamo.    Kami-Gamo. 


dig 


xnerias,  and  evergreen  oaks.    Farti- 
•cularly  curious  are  two  tall  sakaki 
(Cleyera  japonica)  outside  the  main 
^ate,  \vhich  are  joined  together  by  a 
branch  that  has  grown  from  one 
trunk  into  the  other.    These  trees, 
"whichL  are  much  visited  by  women 
who     desire    to    live    in   harmony 
with    their   husbands,    are    called 
renri  no  ki,  and  have  a  small  torii 
in    front    showing    that    they    are 
considered  divine.     The  temple  is 
surrounded    by    a    painted    colon- 
nade, with  a  red  two-storied  gate- 
house (in  the  centre,    opposite  to 
which  is  the  haiden  or  oratory,  a 
shed  24  ft.  by  18  ft.    To  the  r.  are 
two  other  sheds  called  the  hosodono, 
for  the  musicians  who  play  for  the 
performers     of     the     Adzunia-nmi 
dance  in  honour  of  the  gods,  and 
the    kashidono  built  over  a  walled 
•canal,   used  by  the  reader  of  the 
norito  or  ritual.     The  canal  is  called 
Mitarashi-gawaj  or  Kiver  of  Lustra- 
tion.    The  remaining  buildings  are 
of  the  same  character  as  in  other 
Shinto  shrines.    Outside  the  watch- 
house  which  faces  the  main  gate  is 
suspended      a     long     picture      of 
Kotnei  Tenno's  procession  to   this 
plaee    in   1863, — a  great   event  at 
the    time,  as  it    was    a    practical 
demonstration  of  the  possibility  of 
the  Mikado  coming  forth  from  his 
palace    to    taJce    part    in    worldly 
matters,  and  thus  inaugurated  the 
system  under  which  his  son,  the 
present  lilikado,  governs  as  well  as 
reigns.     One  of  the  smaller  shrines 
is  the  object  of  a  peculiar  supersti- 
tion.    It  is  believed  that  evergreens 
of    any    species    resembling     the 
hiiragi  (a  kind  of  holly)  in  general 
appearance,  but  having  no  spines 
•on  the  leaves,  will  jje  converted  into 
that  species  if  planted  before  this 
•chapel,  and  shrubs  supposed  to  be* 
in  process    of   transformation    are 
pointed  out  by  the  hostess  of  the 
•adjacent  tea-stall.      The  chapel  is 
appropriately     styled    Hiiragi    no 
Miya.    The  principal  annual  festi- 
val is  celebrated  on  the  15th  April, 
when   the  double  cherry-blossoms 


which  adorn  the  adjacent  race-course 
are  all  out.  The  races,  however, 
do  not  take  place  till  the  5th  May. 

A  pretty  road  leads  from  Shimo- 
Gamo  to  Kami-Gamo  through  an 
avenue  of  pine-trees  50  cho  long, 
formerly  the  scene  of  many  an 
Imperial  progress,  with  the  Kamo- 
gawa  to  the  r.,  up  whose  course  the 
avenue  goes,  while  Hieizan  rises 
behind  it  and  Kurama-yama  ahead. 

Eami-Gamo. 

This  temple  is  usually  said  to  have  l)een 
founded  in  677  by  the  Kmperor  Temmu  in 
honour  of  Wake-ikazuchi-no-Kami,  but 
there  seems  to  be  some  uncertainty  at- 
taching to  its  early  history.  According^ 
to  the  le<?end,  as  Tama-yori-Hime, 
daughter  of  the  god  Kamo-no-Take-tsumi, 
was  walking  by  the  side  of  the  stream, 
there  came  floating  towards  her  a  red 
arrow  winged  with  a  duck's  feather,  which 
she  picked  up  and  carried  home.  Shortly 
afterwards  she  was  discovered  to  be  preg- 
nant, and  she  eventually  gave  birth  to  a 
son.  The  father  was  unknown,  and 
as  her  parents  disbelieved  her  declara- 
tion that  she  ha<l  never  known  a 
man,  they  determined,  as  soon  as  the 
child  could  understand  what  was  said  to 
it,  to  anive  at  the  secret  by  resorting  to  a 
kind  of  ordeal.  Inviting  all  the  villagerH 
to  a  feast,  they  gave  the  child  a  wine-cup, 
telling  him  to  offer  it  to  his  father ;  bub 
instead  of  taking  it  to  one  of  the  company, 
he  ran  out  of  the  house  and  placed  it  lu 
front  of  the  arrow  which  Tama-yori-Hime 
had  thrust  into  the  roof.  Then  trans- 
foi-miiig  liimself  into  a  thunderlx)lt,  he 
ascended  to  heaven,  followed  by  his 
mother.  This  myth  eyidently  originated 
in  an  attempt  to  account  for  the  name  of 
the  River  Kamo^  which  means  *  duck.* 

The  temple  buildings  are  quite 
plain  and  beginning  to  look  old. 
The  brick  red  colour  of  the  outer 
and  inner  palings  is  striking,  though 
scarcely  prettj'.  In  the  season  of 
the  cherry-blossoms  the  place  is 
gay  with  visitors  and  tea-booths.  At 
other  seasons  it  is  scarcely  to  be 
recommended,  except  to  those  who, 
making  a  prolonged  stay  at  Kyoto, 
desire  to  become  acquaJhted  with 
all  its  environs,  and  can  take 
Kami-Gamo  on  the  way  to 

Kurania-ynma,  a  favourite  walk 
2  ri  further  off  among  the  hills. 

The  name  Kn  rawa  is  said  to  be  derived, 
from  an  incident  in  the  life  of  the  Em- 
peror Temmu,  who  in  A.D,663,  in  order  t» 


I 


814 


Boute  43. — Ki/oto  and  Keiglihourhood, 


escape  from  Prince  Otomo,  fled  hitlier  on 
a  *  fisddled  horse/  which  he  left  tied  up 
tit  this  spot. 

The  walk  back  from  Kurama- 
yama  to  Kjoto  may  be  varied  by 
striking  over  the  hills  to  Shizuhara 
and  Ohara,  thence  to  Yase  1^  W. 
Here  the  women  wear  trowsers,  and 
carry  burdens  on  their  heads,  sup- 
ported on  a  thick  cusliion.  From 
Yase  to  the  Sanjo  Bridge  is  2^  H, 

Shng^nkn-in  is  an  Imperial  garden 
at  the  base  of  Hiei-zan,  planned 
by  the  Mikado  Go-Mizuno-o  in  the 
17th  century.  The  pagoda  of  Toji 
is  the  most  conspicuous  object  in 
the  view  over  the  city,  rising  up  in 
the  gap  between  Otoko-yama  and 
Tenno-zan.  The  fine  cherry-trees 
and  maples  were  planted  by  Kokaku 
Tenno,  grandfather  of  the  present 
MiJukdo. 

Environs  op  Kyoto. 

As  may  easily  be  seen  by  re- 
ference to  the  map,  several  of  the 
temples  and  other  places  already 
mentioned  are,  strictly  speaking, 
in  the  environs  of  Kyoto  rather 
than  within  the  limits  of  the  city 
itself,  owing  to  the  already  men- 
tioned shrinkage  of  the  latter  in 
modern  times.  The  following  are, 
however,  still  further  afield,  de- 
manding each  the  greater  part  of 
a  day  to  be  done  comfortably. 

1.  Iwashimizii  Hncliinian-Gfi  is 

situated  to  the  S.W.  of  Ky5to  on  the 
L  bank  of  the  Yodogawa,  close  to 
the  vill.  of  Yawata,  opposite  Yama- 
zaki  station  on  the  Tokaido  Kail- 
way. 

This  Shinto  temple,  also  called  Otoko- 
yama,  is  dedicated  to  the  Kmperor  Ojin 
who  is  worshipped  as  the  god  of  war 
under  the  title  of  Hachiman.  The  reason 
for  this  particular  form  of  apotheosis  is 
not  apparent,  as  no  warlike  exploits  are 
recounted  of  the  monarch  in  question. 
Perhaps  it  may  be  owing  to  the  tradition 
that  his  mother,  the  Empress  Jingo, 
carried  him  for  three  years  m  her  womb 
whilst  making  her  celebmted  expedition 
against  Korea.  • 

The  temple  stands  on  a  hill  some 
300  ft.  above  the  river,  and  is  built 


in  the    Byobu-Shinto  style,    on  ^| 
stone-faced  platform    10  ft.     high.  \ 
In    former    times    pilgrims     ivere 
allowed  to  walk  round  the    outer 
edge  of  the  corridor  surrounding  the 
building,   so    that   they  were    able^ 
to  see  the  golden  gutter  between  the 
eaves  of  the   oratory   and  chapel. 
This  is  still  said  to  be  in  its  place, 
in  spite  of  the  great  temptation  tO' 
convert  it  into  current  coin.     Prom 
the  E.  gate  a  few  flights  of  steps 
descend  to  the  well  called  Iwa-shi- 
mizu,  that  is,    *Pure  rock  water,'' 
after  which  the  temple  is  named. 

Crossing  the  river  by  the  Ishiba- 
no-Watashi  (ferry),  the  visitor 
should  ascend  Tenno-zan  to  the 
pagoda  of  Takara-dera,  200  ft.  above 
the  bank. 

Here  are  buried  some  of  the  Choshfl 
men  who  performed  hamltiri  on  the  top  ci 
the  liill  aljove,  after  the  repulse  of  the  at- 
tack made  on  the  Mikado's  palace  bj'  the 
warriors  of  that  clan  in  1 864.  Three  hundred 
feet  higher  is  a  gigantic  stone  torii ;  and  a 
little  further,  on  the  slope  where  they 
killed  themselves  rather  than  surrender 
to  1)6  treated  as  common  criminals,  standK- 
the  monument  raised  to  their  memory  by 
the  prince  of  Chosha.  This  hill  and  the 
narrow  pass  Ijctween  it  and  the  river, 
(Xjcupied  by  the  vill.  of  Yamazaki,  are 
famous  in  Japanese  history  as  the  battle- 
field where  Hideyoshi  routed  the  forces  of 
the  traitor  Akechi  Mitsuhide  in  1562,  and 
thus  avenged  the  assassination  of  his^ 
patron  l^bunaga.  Yamazaki  and  the 
villages  of  Yawata  and  Hashimoto  oppo- 
site wore  also  the  scene  of  hard  fighting 
in  the  beginning  of  1868,  when  the  Toku- 
i  gawa  troops  were  l)eing  driven  l»,ckwanls 
^  upon  their  l>ftse  bythe  victorious  mmirai 
<  of  Satsuma  and  ChoshU. 

Other  places  which  native  holiday- 
makers  would  combine  in  the  same 
day's  expedition  aTe  Ao  no  Kdmijdji, 
Nagaoha  no  Tenjuiy  and  Hashimoto, 

2.  Atagro-yaiiin  is  a  conspicuous 
peak  to  the  N.  W.  of  Kyoto,  about 
2,900  ft.  above  the  sea.  The  ascent 
*of  it  may  advantageously  be  com- 
bined with  a  visit  to  Omuro  Gosho 
(see  p.  294),  Uzumasa  (p.  294),  and 
Sciryuji  (p.  295),  which  all  lie  in 
the  same  direction.  A  short  dis- 
tance beyond  Seiryiiji  is  a  red  torii 
at  the  bottom  of  a  hill  called 
Kokorojni-zakat    which    might    ba 


Atago-yama,    Bapids  of , the  Katsura-gaiva,     Uji,         815 


lendered  *  Test  Hill,'  sus  it  puts  tlie 
pil£pim*s  endurance  to  a  first  trial 
before  he  reaches  the  more  arduous 
ascent  to  the  summit  of  the  moun- 
tain.    Descending    to    the  vill.   of 
Kiyotaki,  17  chdy  we  cross  the  stream 
which  lower  down  unites  with  the 
Oigawa  to  form  the  Katsura-gawa, 
and  then  begin  to  climb  a  very  steep 
path  to  the  Minakuchi-ya.     On  the 
'WAj  up  are  two  resting-places  which 
command  a  fine  view  of  the  plain. 
The  last  half  of  the  ascent  is  much 
less  steep,  and  the  distance  from 
the  last  tea-house  to  the  summit  is 
but  5  cho.    On  the  1.  a  glimpse  is 
caught  of  the  Oigawa  and  the  town 
of  Kameoka  in  the  plain  of  Tamba. 
There  is  a  fine  bronze  torii  with  a 
boar  in  relief  at  the  top  of  the  as- 
cent.   Several  flights  of  stone  steps 
lead  up  to  the  front  chapel,  which* 
is  dedicated  to  the  creatress  Xzanami 
and  her  child  the    God    of    Fire, 
whose  birth  caused  her  death.    The 
most  common  ex-voto  is  a  picture 
of  a  wild  boar.    At  the  back  is  a 
second  chapel  dedicated  to  Toyo- 
uke-hime,  the  Goddess  of  Food,  and 
two  other  deities.    Charms  are  sold 
by    the    priests    as-  a    protection 
against  fire. 

3.  Knraiiia-yama.    See  p.  313. 

4.  Bapids  of  the  Katsnragawa. 

This  expedition  makes  a  pleasing 
variety  in  the  midst  of  days  spent 
chiefly  in  visiting  temples.  The 
distance  from  the  Kyoto  Hotel  to 
the  vill,  of  Hozu,  where  boats  are 
engaged  for  the  descent  of  the 
lapids,  is  under  6  ri ;  but  the  road, 
though  practicable  for  jinrikishas 
the  whole  way,  is  hilly  and  rough 
in  places,  so  that  t^o  coolies 
should  be  taken.  A  good  plan  is 
to  engage  jinrikishas  for  the  whole 
round,  as  none  can  be  counted  on 
at  the  landing-place  at  Arashi- 
yama,  the  point  to  which  the  de- 
scent of  the  river  is  made.  There  is 
no  extra  charge  for  taking  them  in 
the  boat.  Fare  for  jinrikishas  for 
the  whole  trip,  including  the  return 
from  Arashi-yama   to   the    Hotel, 


$1^.  The  charge  for  a  large  boat  to 
descend  the  rapids  is  $3^ ;  but  it 
is  advisable  to  reach  Hozu  before 
noon,  as  the  boatmen  make  a  double 
charge  after  that  hour,  on  the 
ground  of  their  not  being  able  to  re- 
ascend  the  river  the_  same  day. 
Visitors  from  Kobe  or  Osaka  should 
alight  from  the  train  at  Muko- 
maclii,  the  station  before  reaching 
Kyoto,  and  join  the  road  at  Katagi- 
wara,  thereby  saving  in  distance  2 
ri  9  cho  and  the  additional  journey 
by  rail.  At  Mukomachi  jinrikishas 
(i^l  for  the  whole  trip)  can  be 
engaged ;  the  distance  to  the  junc- 
tion of  the  roads  at  Katagiwara  is 
18  did. 

The  villages  of  Kutsukake  and  Oji 
are  traversed  before  reaching  H6zu> 
the  point  of  embarkation.  The 
rapids  commence  almost  immedi- 
ately. The  bed  of  the  river  is  very 
rocl^,  but  the  stream  at  its  ordi- 
nary height  not  particularly  swift. 
The  scenery  is  charming.  The  river 
at  once  enters  the  hills  which  soon 
rise  precipitously  on  either  hand, 
and  continues  its  course  between 
them  for  about  13  m.  to  Arashi- 
yama.  Of  the  numerous  small 
rapids  and  races,  the  following  are 
a  few  of  the  most  exciting : — Koya 
iw  taki,  or  Hut  Eapid,  a  long  race 
terminating  in  a  pretty  rapid,  the 
passage  being  narrow  between  artifi- 
cially constructed  embankments  of 
rock ;  TdkasCy  or  High  Rapid,  Shi- 
shi  no  Kuchif  or  The  tjion's  Mouth, 
and  Tonase-daki,  the  last  on  the 
descent,  where  the  river  rushes 
between  numerous  rocks  and  islets. 
One  ri  before  reaching  Arashi-yama, 
the  Kiyotaki-gawa  falls  in  on  the  1. 
Tlie  descent  takes  on  an  average 
about  2  hrs.,  but  varies  slightly 
according  to  the  amount  of  w^ater 
in  the  river.  From  the  landing-place 
at  Arashi-yama  to  the  Kyoto  Hotel 
is  a  journey  of  1  hr.  by  jinrikisha. 

5.  Uji  (InnSy  Yorozu-ya  on  the 
Kyoto  side  of  the  river,  and  Kiku- 
ya  on  the  other  side)  lies  a  little 
under  4  ri  S.  of  Kyoto.    There  is  a 


316 


Route  43, — Kyoto  and  Neighbourhood, 


good  jinrikisha  road  the  whole  way. 
This  neat  little  town,  picturesquely 
situated  on  the  Yodogawa,  here 
called  Ujigawa,  which  drains  Lake 
Biwa,  is  surrounded  by  tea  planta- 
tions that  have  been  famous  for 
many  centuries  as  producing  the 
finest  tea  in  Japan. 

Tea  is  believed  to  have  been  introduced 
from  China  in  805  by  the  BudAhist  abbot, 
Dengyo  Daishi. '  The  Uji  plantations  date 
fi-om  the  close  of  the  12th  century. 

The  tea  begins  to  come  to  market 
about  the  10th  May,  but  the  prepara- 
tion of  the  leaf  can  be  seen  going 
on  busily  in  the  peasants'  houses  k)r 
some  time  later.  The  finest  kinds, 
such  as  Gydkuro  (Jewelled  Dew), 
ajre  sold  at  very  high  prices — as 
much  as  from  $5  to  $7^  a  pound. 
Those,  however,  who  expect  to  see 
large  firing  or  selling  establish- 
ments will  be  disappointed.  Each 
family  works  independently  in  quite 
a  small  way,  and  gives  to  the  tea 
produced  by  it  whatever  fancy  name 
it  chooses.  The  citizens  of  Kyoto 
visit  Uji  in  the  summer  to  see  the 
fire-flies,  and  to  enjoy  the  charming 
view  up  the  river  which  recalls  that 
from  Arashi-yama.  It  is  a  good 
picnicking  place  at  all  seasons. 

Uji's  chief  sight  is  the  ancient 
Buddhist  temple  of  Byddo-in^  be- 
longing to  the  Tendai  sect  and  con- 
nected in  history  with  the  name 
of  the  famous  warrior  Gen-sammi 
Yorimasa. 

The  monastery  dates  from  1052.  Here 
Oen-sammi  Yonmasa  committed  suicide 
in  1180  after  the  battle  of  Uji  Bridge, 
where  with  300  warriors  he  resisted  the 
20,000  men  of  the  Taira  clan,  in  order  to 
afford  time  for  Prince  M(X5hiluto  to  make 
his  escape.  After  prodigies  of  valour 
had  been  performed  by  this  little  band, 
most  of  whom  fell  in  the  defence  of  the 
bridge,  Yorimasa  retired  to  Byodo-in, 
and  while  his  remaining  followers  kept 
the  enemy  at  bay,  calmly  ran  himself 
through  with  his  sword  in  the  manner  of 
an  ancient  Japanese  hero.  He  was  then 
75  years  of  age.  Yorimasa  is  famous  in 
Japanese  romance  for  having,  with  the 
aid  of  his  trusty  squire  I-no-Hayata, 
slain  the  monster  called  Sam-toru-hehi 
which  tormented  the  Emperor  Nijo-no-in. 

The  large  stone  monument  of 
irregular  shape,  seen  to  the  1.  on 


entering  the  grounds  of  Byodo-in, 
was  erected  in  1887  to  hand  down 
the  praises  of  Uji  tea  to  posterity. 
The  building  beyond  the  lotus  pond 
is  the  Hoo-ddy  or  Phoenix  Hall,  one 
of  the  most  ancient  wooden   stmc- 
tures'in  Japan,  perhaps  the  most 
original  in  shape,  and  formerly  one 
of  the  most  beautiful,  though  now 
unfortunately  a  good  deal  decayed. 
It  derives  its  name  from  the  fact 
that  it  is  intended  to  represent  a 
phoenix,  the  two-storied  central  part 
being  the  body  and  the  colonnades  r. 
and  1.  the  wings,  while  the  corridor 
behind  forms    the  tail.     The  ceil- 
ing   is  divided    into  small  coffers 
inlaid  with  mother-of-pearl.    Bound 
the  top  of  the  walls  runs  a  sort  of 
frieze  representing  the  Twenty-five 
JBosatsu  and  various  female  person- 
ages.   The  doors  and  the  walls  r. 
and  1.  and  behind  the    altar   are 
covered    with     ancient     Buddhist 
paintings  by  Tamenari,  now  almost 
obliterated,  of   the    Nine   Begions 
of  Siikhavdti(Jsiip.  Kuban  Jddojj  the 
Pure  Land  in  the  West,  where  the 
saints     dwell    according    to    their 
degree  of  merit. 

The  altar  or  stage  was  originally 
covered  with  nashiji  gold  lacquer 
inlaid  with  mother-of-pearl ;  and  as 
every  inch  of  the  walls  and  columns 
was  elaborately  decorated  with 
paintings,  the  efiect  of  the  whole 
when  new  must  have  been  truly 
dazzling.  By  criminal  neglect  this 
gem  of  art  was  left  open  to  every 
wind  of  heaven  for  many  years,  ana 
what  between  the  ravages  of  the 
weather  and  the  ravages  of  thieves, 
the  place  has  been  reduced  to  its 
present  state  of  decay. 

On  the  xooi  are  two  phoenixes  in 
bronze,  3  ft.  high,  which  serve  as 
weathercocks. 

The  Honddy  or  present  main  tem- 
ple, which  is  much  newer,  has 
nothing  calling  for  special  mention. 
The  Apartments,  though  poor,  con- 
tain various  objects  of  interest,— 
kakenionoSf  illustrated  scrolls,  and 
relics  of  Yorimasa,  among  other 
things  his  flag  which  is  inscribed 


Eonte  44. — Lake  Biwa. 


817 


vdth  Sanskrit  characters^  his  bow, 
saddle,  and  armour,  a  small  coloured 
image  of  him  in  priestly  garb 
which  looks  like  a  portrait,  and  a 
very  old  kakemono  representing  his 
life  and  adventures;  There  is  also 
a  flag  interesting  as  a  very  early 
example  of  the  Japanese  national 
device  of  the  red  sun  on  a  white 
ground.  On  the  sun  are  inscribed 
the  characters  Namu  Amida  ButsUj 
-and  a  date  corresponding  to  the 
30th  November,  1185.  The  collec- 
tion contains  furthermore  quite  a 
number  of  small  Buddhist  images. 

The  walk  up  the  stream  to  the 
temple  of  Koshoji  (ferry),  return- 
ing over  the  Uji  bridge,  is  very 
pretty.  The  most  agreeable  way  of 
returning  to  Kyoto  is  to  take  boat, 
a,nd  drop  down  to  the  Kyoba- 
fihi  at  Fushimi  in  about  an  hour, 
whence  home  by  jinrikisha.  Ob- 
serve that  an  expedition  to  Uji 
may  be  combined  with  a  visit  to  the 
Daibutsu  (see  p.  300)  f  San-ju-san- 
gm-do  (p.  299),  Tofukuji  (p.  299), 
and  the  temple  of  Inari  (p.  298). 
Instead  of  following  the  main  road 
from  Kyoto  to  Uji,  some  recommend 
a  d6tour  vi&  the  temples  of  Fuji-no- 
nwri  and  Obaku-san.  Both  of  these 
ancient  and  once  celebrated  edifices 
have,  however,  fallen  into  such 
lamentable  decay  as  really  not  to 
be  worth  going  out  of  one's  way 
to  see. 

Fuji-no-Mori  is  dedicated  to  Toneri 
fihinno,  the  chief  compiler  of  the  Xlhongi, 
or '  Chronicles  of  Japan,'  A.D.  720.  Obaku- 
mn,  founded  in  1659  by  a  Chinese  priest 
named  Ingen,  possesses  a  complete  set  of 
wooden  blocks  for  printing  the  Chinese 
version  of  the  Buddliist  scriptures. 

Those  who  prefer  jinrikisha  riding 
to  the  train  might  go  from  Kyoto  to 
Nara  vid.  Uji — not  much  more  than 
a  half-day's  run — passing  through 
the  vill.  of  Nagaike  and  along  the 
banks  of  the  Kizugawa. 

6.  Lake  Biwa,  either  via  Otsu 
or  over  HieUmn,  (See  next  Route 
for  details.) 


ROUTE  44. 

Lake  Biwa. 

kyoto  to  lake  biwa.  otsu.  i8hi- 
yama-deba.  miideba.  kara- 
saki.  ascent  op  hiei-zan.  .hi- 
kone.      nagahama.      chikubu- 

SHIHA. 

1. — General  Information. 

Glimpses  of  this  beautiful  lake, 
whose  southern  and  eastern 
shores  are  classic  ground^  can  be 
obtained  from  the  carriage  windows 
by  those  travelling  on  the  Tokaid5 
Railway  between  the  stations  o£ 
Maibara  and  Baba ;  but  they  are 
glimpses  only.  To  explore  the  best 
portions  of  the  Lake  Biwa  district 
thoroughly,  the  proper  plan  is, 
taking  Kyoto  as  the  starting-point, 
to  go  to  Otsu  either  by  rail  or  jin- 
rikisha, or  else  to  go  over  Hiei-zan, 
as  explained  in  detail  below,  to  do 
the  southern  end  of.  the  lake  from 
Otsu  as  a  centre,  and  then  to  take 
one  of  the  little  lake  steamers  from 
Otsu  to  Hikone  and  Nagahams, 
returning  to  Otsu  by  rail,  and 
thence  either  westwards  to  Kyoto 
or  eastwards  in  the  direction  of 
Yokohama. 

The  Lake  of  Omi,  generally  called  Lake 
Biwa  {Biwa-ko  in  Japanese)  on  account  of 
a  fancied  resemblance  between  its  shape 
and  that  of  the  Chinese  guitar,  is  about  3ft 
m.  long  and  12  m.  wide.  Its  area  is  ap- 
proximately equal  to  that  of  the  Lake  of 
Geneva.  Its  height  is  stated  by  Dr.  Rein 
to  be  about  100  metres  (3.33  ft.)  above  the 
level  of  the  sea  ;  and  its  greatest  depth  is 
said  to  l3e  the  same,  but  in  most  places  is 
much  less.  From  Katata  towards  Seta  it 
becomes  very  narrow,  while  the  northern 
part  is  oval  in  shape.  On  the  "W.  side  the 
mountain  ranges  of  Hiei-zan  and  Hira- 
yama  descend  nearly  to  the  shore,  while 
on  the  K.  a  wide  plain  extends  between 
Musaand  Toriimoto  towards  the  boundary 
of  Mino.  There  are  a  few  small  islands  in 
the  lake,  of  which  Chikubu-shima  neeur 
the  N.  end  is  the  most  celebrated.  Ac- 
cording to  a  legend  long  finnly  believed  in 
by  the  Japanese,  the  lake  was  produced 
by  an  earthquake  in  the  year  286  B.C.* 
while  Mount  Fuji  rose  out  of  the  plains  of 
Suruga  at  the  same  moment.  Constant 
reference  is  made  in  Japanese  poetry  vuSL 


818 


Boute  44. — Lake  Biwa, 


art  to  the  '  Eight  Beauties  of  Omi '  ( Omi 
Hdk-kei)t  the  idea  of  which  was  derived, 
like  most  other  Japanese  things,  from 
China,  where  there  are  or  were  eight 
beauties  at  a  place  called  Siao-Siang.  The 
Sight  Beauties  of  Omi  are  :  the  Autumn 
Moon  seen  from  Ishijama,  the  Evening 
finow  on  Hirayama,  the  Blaze  of  Evening 
at  Seta,  the  Evening  Bell  of  Miidera,  the 
Boats  sailing  back  from  Yabase,  a  Bright 
Bky  ^vith  a  Breeze  at  Awazu,  Rain  by- 
Night  at  Karasaki,  and  the  Wild  Geese 
sighting  at  Katata.  As  usual,  conven* 
tion  enters  a  good  deal  into  this  Japanese 
choice  of  specially  lovely  scenes ;  but  all 
foreigners  will  admit  the  great  general 
iieauty  of  the  southern  portion  of  the  lake. 
A  new  feature— useful  though  not 
"beautiful— added  to  the  neighbourhood  of 
Otsu  by  the  modem  thirst  for  progress  is 
the  Lake  Biica  Canal,  Ijegun  in  18U5,  and 
consisting  of  two  branches,  one  for  pur- 
poses of  navigation,  the  other  for  irriga- 
tion and  water  power.  The  main  branch 
is  6|  m.  long,  the  secondary  branch  5i  m., 
the  total  fall  143  ft.  Some  portions  of  the 
Canal  are  open,  others  pass  through  long 
tunnels.  The  main  branch  connects  with 
the  Kamogawa,  the  river  by  which  Kyoto 
is  watered.  At  Keage  near  the  entrance 
of  the  city,  where  the  branches  divide, 
the  boat  traffic  is  worked  by  an  inclined 
plane,  the  boats  being  put  into  a  wheeled 
cradle,  which  is  pulled  up  and  let  down 
by  mea^s  of  a  wire  rope  'worked  by 
"water  power  from  the  Canal  above.  From 
the  foot  of  this  plane  there  is  another 
Btretch  of  open  Canal,  with  a  regulating 
lock  between  it  and  the  river.  A  curious 
]>ersonal  item  worth  mentioning  jn  con- 
nection with  this  Canal  is  the  fact  that 
the  idea  of  it  originated  with  a  young 
student  of  the  College  of  Engineering  at 
Tokyo,  who,  having  propoimded  it  in  his 
graduation  essay,  obtained  pennission  to 
put  it  into  practice  liim.«4elf,  and  thus, 
though  a  mere  youth  and  though  deprived 
of  the  use  of  his  right  hand— all  his  draw- 
ings having  been  beautifully  executed 
with  his  left — rose  immediately  to  the 
position  of  one  of  the  leading  engineers  in 
the  country.  His  name  is  Tanabe  Sakuro. 
The  Canal  was  opened  to  traffic  in  the 
spring  of  1890,  and  while  answering  the 
purposes  for  which  it  was  intended,  has 
not  verified  the  fears  of  some  who  im- 
agined that  the  level  of  the  lake  would  lie 
I)ermanently  lowered.  The  cost  of  the 
undertaking  is  officially  stated  at  Ik  mil- 
lion jfen.  The  natural  drainage  of  the 
lake  is  by  a  river  flowing  out  of  its  8.  end, 
which  bears  in  succession  the  names  of 
Setagawa,  Ujigawa,  and  Yodogawa.  It 
^sses  close  to  Fushimi,  a  suburb  of 
jS^jotOt  and  falls  into  the  sea  at  Osaka. 

_  Small  steamers  ply  daily  between 
Otsu  and  Hikone,  Maibara,  and 
Nagahama  on  the  E.  coast  of  the 
lake,  and  along  the  W.  coast  be- 


tween Otsn,  Katata,  Eatsmio,  eto., 
on  the  W.  coast,  ending  up  at 
Shiotsu  on  the  N.  extremity. 

2. — ^^Kyoto  to  Otsu  bt  Jinrikisha. 
Otsu  and  NEiaHBOUBHOOD. 

The  run  from  Kyoto  to  Otsu  by 
the  TokaidS  Railway  takes  about 
f  hr.      The  Otsu   station,    called 
Ilabau  stands  some  way  out  of  the 
town.      For  this  reason,  and  also 
on   account  of  the    excellence  of 
the  highway,  which  is  part  of  the 
historic  Tokaido  and  still  retains 
some  of    the    bustle   and  pictur- 
esqueness  of  former    days,    many 
prefer    to    do    the    distance     by 
jinrikisha.      One  may    also    thus 
advantageously  combine  a  visit  to 
the  Kinlcozan  Potteries  at  Awata  on 
the  E.  outskirt  of  Kyoto,  which  are 
extensive  and  most  interesting,  the 
visitor    being  shown    the     whole 
process,  from  the  kneading  of  the 
clay  to  the  painting  in  gold  and 
colours  and  the  firing  of  the  com- 
pleted pieces.    Leaving  Awata,  we 
pass  1.  the  Lake  Biwa  Canal,  just 
at    the  place  (Keage)   where  the 
portage      by     rail     takes     place. 
After  ascending  a  gentle  rise  called 
Hino-oka-toge,  we  next  see  r.  the 
former  Execution   Ground    (shi-obi~ 
ha),  now  turned  into  a  rice-field, 
and  then  1.  the   Tiimvlus  of  Tenji 
Tennoy    a    Mikado     of      the    7th 
century.     It  is  a  mound  overgrown 
with   pine-trees,  like  all  the  hill- 
sides hereabout.  The  vill.  of  Yania- 
shina,      which     stands      on     the 
boundary  betweenthe  provinces  of 
Yamashiro   and   Omi,   and  which 
has  filrnished  a    title  to   one  of 
Japan's  Imi)erial  Princes,  is  soon 
reached,  and  after  it  the  villages  of 
Oiwake  and  Otani,  where  the  high- 
road and  the  railway  run  side  by 
side.    The  gentle  hill  next  ascend- 
ed is  called   Osaka  (properly  Au 
saka, '  the  hill  of  meeting,*  of  course 
having    nothing^  whatever  to  do 
with  the  city  of  Osaka). 

On  the  top  formerly  stood  a  barrier,  or 
oetroif  constantly  referred  to  in  Japanese 


Otsu.     Miidera,     Pine-tree  of  KarasdkL 


31^ 


poetry,  and  thus  described  by  Semi-maro, 
one  of  tbe  bards  of  the  Hyuku-nin  Ig-shUf 
or  •  Century  of  Poets,'  in  a  stanza  which 
every  Japanese  knows  by  heart : 

The  stranger  here  from  distant  lands. 
The  friend  his  home-bound  friend  may 

greet. 
For  on  this  hill  the  barrier  stands, 
The  gate  where  all  must  part  and  meet. 

Just  over  the  top  of  the  hill 
tliere  is  a  tiny  shrine  to  Semi- 
maro.  Lake  Biwa  then  comes  in 
view,  and  in  a  minute  more  we  are 

Otsn  {Hotel,  Minarai-tei,  semi- 
foreign),  a  flourishing  town,  capital 
of  the  province  of  Omi  and  of  the 
prefecture  of  Shiga,  standing  on 
the   shore  of  the  lake. 

This  city  has  gained  an  unenviable 
place  in  the  annals  of  contemporary 
Japan,  through  the  attempted  murder 
there  of  the  (Jzare witch  on  the  11th  May, 
189 1 .  The  would-be  assassin,  Tsuda  Sanzo, 
had  distinguished  himSelf  on  the  loyal 
aide  in  the  Satsuma  Rebellion,  and  having 
Bubsequently  entered  the  police  service, 
was  actually  on  duty  at  the  time  as  one 
of  the  Czarewitch's  guards.  Some  of  the 
good  people  of  Otsu  proposed  to  alter  the 
name  of  their  city,  which  had  thus  become 
infamous ;  but  though  such  changes  are 
by  no  means  rare  in  Japan,  this  particular 
suggestion  has  not  been  adopted. 

On  a  hill  close  to  the  town  stands 
the  famous  Buddhist  temple  of 
Miidera,  dedicated  to  Kwannon. 

This  monastery  was  founded  in  A.D.  675 
by  the  Emperor  Tenji,  and  rebuilt  in  magni- 
ficent style  in  the  following  centuiy.  The 
present  structure,  which  dates  only  from 
16SM),  is  poor.  The  granite  obelisk  is  quite 
modem,  having  been  erected  to  the 
memory  of  the  soldiers  from  this  prefec- 
ture who  fell  fighting  on  the  loyal  side 
against  the  Satsuma  rebels. 

The  view  is  entrancing,  espe- 
cially from  the  obelisk.  On  the 
spectator's  extreme  1.  is  Hiei-zan, 
then  Hirayama;  next,  in  faint 
outline,  the  island  of  Chikubu- 
shima  near  the  N.  end  of  the  lake, 
with  the  high  land  of  Echizen 
behind;  straight  ahead  are  other 
mountains  not  specially  famous, 
excepting  jwinted  Chomeiji-yama, 
and  Mikami-yama,  (Mukade-yama) 
shaped  like  a  miniature  Fuji.  To 
the  extreme  r.  is  Tanakami-zan.  At 
the  spectator's  feet  ai-e  the  lake  and 


the  town  of  Otsu,  with  the  Canal 
coming  straight  towards^  hinl. 

Not  quite  Ij  ri  N.  of  Otsu,  along 
the  W.  shore  of  the  lake  by  a 
level  jinrikisha  road,  is  EaraSaiki,. 
famous  all  over  Japan  for  its  giant 
pine-tree,  which  is  one  of  the  most 
curious  trees  in  the  world  and 
perhaps  the  very  largest  of  its 
species  —  not  in  height,  but  in 
extent.  Its  dimensions  are  stated 
as  follows  ; 

Height,  over 90  ft. 

Circumference  of  trunk,  over    37  „ 
Length   of   branches    from 

E.  to  W 240  „ 

Length  of  branches  from  N. 

to  S 288  „ 

Number  of  branches,  over...  380  „ 

Most  of  the  branches  spread 
downwards  and  outwards,  fan-like, 
towards  the  ground,  being  in 
most  places  so  low  that  one  has 
to  crouch  in  order  to  pass  under 
them,  and  are  supported  by  a 
whole  scaffolding  of  wooden  legs 
and  stone  cushions.  The  holes  in 
the  trunk  are  carefully  stopped 
with  plaster,  and  the  top  of  the 
tree  has  a  little  roof  over  it  to 
ward  off  the  rain  from  a  spot 
supposed  to  be  delicate.  In  front 
of  this  tree,  for  which  immemorial 
age  has  gained  the  reputation  of 
sanctity,  stands  a  trumpery  little 
Shinto  shrine  called  Karasaki  Jinja. 

Those  having  time  to  spare  should 
continue  on  20  chd  further  aloncr 
this  road  to  Sflkamoto  (several 
inns),  where,  on  the  slope  of  Hiei- 
zan,  embosomed  among  tall  pines 
and  cryptomerias,  is  a  large  Shinto- 
tetaple  dedicated  to  Hiyoshi,  or 
Sanno  Sama,  the  god  of  the  moun- 
tain, together  with  a  number  of 
subsidiary  shrines,  some  so  small  as 
almost  to  look  like  toys.  The  still- 
ness of  the  now  half-deserted 
temples,  the  shade  of  the  grand 
old  trees,  and  the  plashing  of  rills  of 
water  through  the  spacious  grounds, 
produce  a  charming  impression. 
No  spot  could  be  better  fitted  for  a 


:S20 


Route  44, — Lake  Bivca. 


picnic.    There  are  two  more  Shinto 
shrines  8  cho  higher  up  the  hill. 

The  best  expedition  on  the  oppo- 
site, or  S.E.,  side  of  Otsu  is  to  tile 
long  bridge  of  Seta  and  the  temple 
of  Ishiyama-dera,  a  charming  jin- 
rikisha  ride.  After  leaving  Otsu, 
one  passes  through  Zeze,  which  is 
practically  a  suburb  of  Otsu  (most 
Japanese  prefer  the  Sakamoto-ya 
inn  at  Zeze  to  any  of  those  at 
•Otsu).  Observe  r.  the  barn-like 
temple  of  Empuku-in,  with  quaint 
images — some  painted,  some  un- 
painted — of  the  Five  Hundred 
Bahan  seated  on  shelves  placed 
round  three  sides  of  the  hall. 
On  leaving  Zeze,  the  road  leads 
over  a  sort  of  common  called 
Awazu-no-hara.  Here  the  culti- 
vated plain  to  the  r.,  the  avenue 
of  pine-trees  lining  the  road,  the 
blue  lake  to  the  1.,  and  the  hills 
encircling  the  horizon  —  some 
brilliantly  green  with  pine-trees, 
some  bare  and  white,  some  blue  in 
the  distance,  with  broad  spaces 
between,  and  the  cone  of  Mikami- 
yama  ahead — this  tout  ensenible 
forms  an  ideal  picture  of  tranquil 
and  varied  loveliness.  Two  cho 
past  the  vill.  of  Torigawa,  stands 
the  celebrated 

Long  Bridge  of  Seta  (Seta  no 
Naga-hashi),  spanning  the  waters 
of  the  lake  at  the  picturesque 
spot  where  it  narrows  to  form 
the  Setagawa,  so  called  from  the 
vill.  of  Seta  on  the  opposite  bank. 
A  bridge  has  existed  in  this  spot 
from  the  earliest  times.  The  pre- 
sent structure  was  last  repaired  in 
1875.  Properly  speaking,  the 
bridge  is  two  bridges,  there  being 
an  island  in  mid-stream,  on  which 
they  meet.  The  first  bridge  is  215 
Japanese  ft.  long,  the  second  576 
ft.  A  tiny  Shinto  shrine  on  the  op- 
posite bank  of  the  river,  to  the  r.,  is 
dedicated  to  the  memory  of  Tawara 
Toda  Hidesato,  a  famous  hero  of 
romance,  who  is  said  to  have  lived 
in  the  tenth  century.    The  follow- 


ing legend  concerning  him  and.  the 
Long  Bridge  and « Mikami-3r&in& 
hard  by,  which  is  also  called. 
Mukade-yama,  that  is.  Centipede 
Mountain,  is  taken  from  tlie 
'Japanese  Fairy  Tale  Series/ 
where  it  bears  the  title  of 

My  Lord  BAQ-O'-EiCE.f 

Once  upon  a  time  there  was  a  brave 
warrior,  called  My  Lord  Bag-o'-Rice,  Mr  bo 
spent  all  his  time  in  waging  war  ag&inat 
the  Mikado's  enemies. 

One  day,  when  he  had  sallied  fortli.  to 
seek  adventures,  he  came  to  the  Lonfc 
Bridge  of  Seta,  spanning  the  river  just  ctt 
the  place  where  it  flows  out  of  the  Lake. 
Wnen  he  set  foot  on  this  bridge,  he  s&vr 
that  a  Serpent  twenty  feet  long  was  lyinfc 
there  basking  in  the  sun,  in  such  a  wfty 
that  he  could  not  cross  the  bridge  withoat 
treading  on  it.     Most  men  would  have 
taken  to  their  heels  at  so  frightful  a  siglit. 
But  My  Lord  Bag-o'-Rice  was  not  to  be 
daunted.  He  simply  walked  right  ahead, — 
squash,  scrunch,  over  the  Serpent's  body. 
Instantly  the  Serpent  turned  into  a  tiny- 
Dwarf,  who,  humbly  bowing  the  knee* 
and  kncKking  the  planks  of  the  bridge 
three  times  with  his  head  in  token  of 
respect,  said :     *  My   Lord !   you   are   & 
man,  you  are  !    For  many  a  weary  day 
have  I  lain  here,  waiting  for  one  who 
should  avenge  mc  on  mine  enemy.  But  all 
who  saw  me  were  cowards  and  ran  away. 
You   will  avenge  me,  will  you   not?     X 
live  at  the  bottom  of  this  lake,  and  my 
enemy  is  a  Centipede  who  dwells  at  the 
top  of  yonder  mountain.  Come  along  with 
me,  I  lieseech  you.    If  you  help  me  not,  I 
am  undone.' 

The  Warrior  was  delighted  at  havinK 
found  such  an  adventure.  He  wil- 
lingly followed  the  Dwarf  to  his 
summer-house  beneath  the  waters  of  the 
lake.  It  was  all  curiously  built  of  coral 
and  metal  sprays  in  the  shape  of  sea-weed 
4ind  other  water-plants,  with  fresh-water 
crabs  as  big  as  men,  and  water-monkeys, 
and  newts,  and  tadpoles,  as  ser\-ant8  and 
body-guai-ds.  When  they  had  restcid 
awhile,  dinner  was  brought  in  on  trays 
shapetl  like  the  leaves  of  water-lilies.  The 
dishes  were  water-cress  leaves,— not  real 
ones,  but  much  more  beautiful  than  real 
ones ;  for  they  were  of  water-green  porce- 
lain with  a  shimmer  of  gold ;  and  the 
chopsticks  were  of  beautiful  petrified 
wood,  like  black  ivoiy.  As  for  the  wine  in 
the  cups,  it  looked  like  water;  but  as 
it  iaitted  all  right,  what  did  its  looks 
signify  ? 

Well,  there   they   were,   feasting  and 
singing ;  and  the  Dwarf  had  just  pledged 


fTowara,    part   of   the 
means  'rice-bag.* 


hero*8    name* 


Long  Bndge  of  Seta,     IsJiiyama-dera. 


821 


tlie  Warrior  in  a  goblet  of  hot  steaming 
'wine,  when  thud  !  thud !  thud !  like  the 
tramp  of  an  army,  the  fearful  monster  of 
'wbom  the  Dwarf  had  spoken  was  heard 
approaching.    It  sounded  as  if  a  conti- 
nent were  in  motion ;  and  on  either  side 
there  seemed  to  be  a  row  of  a  thousand 
men  with  lanterns.    But  the  Wanior  was 
able  to  make  out,   as  the  danger  drew 
nearer,  that  all  this  fuss  was  made  by  a 
single  creature,  an  enormous  Centipede 
over  a  mile  long ;  and    that  what  had 
seemed  like  men  with  lanterns  on  either 
side  of  it,  were  in  reality  its  own  feet,  of 
w^hich  it  had  exactly  one   thousand  on 
each  side  of  its  bod^,  all  of  them  glisten- 
ing and  glinting  with  the  sticky  poison 
tliat  oozed  out  of  eveiy  pore.    There  was 
no  time  to  be  lost.     The  Centipede  was 
already  half-way  down  the  mountain.    So 
the  Warrior  snatched  up  his  bow— a  bow 
so  big  and  heavy  that  it  would  have  taken 
five  ordinaiy  men  to  pull  it— fitted   an 
arrow    into  the  bow-notch,  and  let  fly. 
He  was  not ,  one  ever  to  miss  his  aim. 
The  arrow  struck  right  in  the  middle  of 
the   monster's   forehead.      But   alas !    it 
rebounded  as  if  that  forehead  had  been  I 
•made  of  brass.  j 

A  second  time  did  the  Warrior  take  his  , 
bow  and  shoot.  A  second  time  did  the  i 
arrow  strike  and  rebound ;  and  now  the 
dreadful  creature  was  down  to  the  water's 
edge,  and  would  soon  pollute  the  lake 
with  its  filthy  poison.  Said  the  Warrior 
to  himself:  'Nothing  kills  Centipedes 
so  surely  as  human  spittle.'  And  with 
these  words,  he  spat  ui^ou  the  tip  of  the 
only  arrow  that  remained  to  him, — for 
there  had  been  but  three  in  his  quiver. 
This  time  again  the  aiTow  hit  the  Centi- 
pede right  in  the  middle  of  the  forehead. 
But  instead  of  rebounding,  it  went  right 
in  and  came  out  again  at  the  back  of  the 
creature's  head,  so  that  the  Centipede 
fen  down  dead,  shaking  the  whole 
country-side  like  an  earthquake ;  and  the 
poisonous  light  on  its  two  thousand  feet 
darkened  to  a  dull  glare  like  that  of  l^e 
twilight  of  a  stormy  day. 

Then  the  Warrior  found  himself  wafted 
back  to  his  own  castle  ;  and  round  him 
stood  a  row  of  presents,  on  each  of  which 
were  inscribed  the  words,  '  From  your 
grateful  Dwarf.'  One  of  these  presents 
was  a  large  bronze  bell,  which  the  War- 
rior, who  was  a  religious  man  as  well  as  a 
brave  one,  hung  up  in  the  temple  that 
contained  the  tombs  of  his  ancestors.  The 
second  was  a  sword,  which  enabled  him 
ever  after  to  gain  the  victory  over  all  his 
enemies.  The  third  was  a  suit  of  armour 
which  no  arrow  could  penetrate.  The 
fourth  was  a  roll  of  silk  which  never  grew 
smaller,  though  he  cut  off  large  pieces 
from  to  time  to  make  himself  a  new  court 
dress.  The  fifth  was  a  Img  of  rice,  which, 
though  he  took  from  it  day  after  day  for 
mea£  for  himself,  his  family,  and  his 
trusty  retainers,  never  got  exhausted  as 
kmg  as  he  lived.    And  it  was  from  this 


fifth  and  last  present  that  he  took  his 
name  and  title  of  '  My  Lord  Bag-o'-Rice ;  * 
for  all  the  people  thought  that  there  was 
nothing  stranger  in  the  whole  world  than 
this  wonderful  bag,  which  made  its  owner 
such  a  rich  and  happy  man. 

Eeturning  to  the  vill.  of  Tori- 
gawa,  we  follow  for  a  short 
distance  down  the  r.  bank  of  the 
Setagawa  to 

Isiiiyania-dora.  In  the  vill.  just 
before  reaching  the  temple  are 
numerous  tea-houses  where  lunch 
may  conveniently  be  taken. 

This  famous  monastery  was  founded  in 
749  by  the  monk  liyoben  tsOjo,  in  obedience 
to  a  command  of  the  Emperor  Shomu. 
h  aving  been  destroyed  by  fire  in  1076,  it  was 
rebuilt  a  century  later  by  Yoritomo.  The 
present  main  temple  was  built  by  Todo- 
(jrimi,  the  mother  of  Hideyori,  towards  the 
end  of  the  16th  century.  The  name  Ishi- 
j/ama-dera,  lit,  'the  temple  of  the  rocky 
mountain,'  is  derived  from  some  large  black 
rocks  of  fantastic  shape,  which  crop  up  out 
uf  the  soil  in  the  middle  of  the  grounds, 
and  have  been  utilised  by  the  priests  for 
purposes  of  landscape  gardening. 

The  temple  grounds  occupy  the 
lower  part  of  a  thickly  wooded  hill 
on  the  r.  bank  of  the  river,  and 
extend  almost  down  to  the  water's 
edge.  Passing  along  an  avenue  of 
maple-trees  and  ascending  a  flight 
of  steps,  the  visitor  reaches  the 
platform  where  stand  the  already- 
mentioned  black  rocks,  above  which  ' 
again  is  the  Main  Temple,  dedicated 
to  the  Two-Armed  Omnipotent 
Kwannon.  The  building,  which  is 
partly  supported  on  piles,  is  dingy 
within.  The  altar  is  so  dark  that 
the  image  of  Kwannon  can  scarcely 
be  distinguished.  It  is  16  ft. 
high,  and  is  attributed  to  Ryo- 
ben.  In  its  interior  is  hidden  the 
real  object  of  worship,  a  small 
image  six  inches  in  height,  once 
owned  by  the  famous  Prince  Sho- 
toku  Taishi.  On  pillars  in  front 
of  the  altar  hang  prayer-wheels 
and  a  fortune-box  (o  mikuji-hako) , 
the  latter  being  a  cylinder  con- 
taining little  braas  chopsticks 
marked  with  notches, — one,  two, 
three,  and  so  on  up  to  twelve.  The 
anxious  enquirer   shakes   one    of 


S22 


BouU  4^. — Lake  Biwa. 


these  out  of  a  email  liole  at  one  end  ' 
of  the  cylinder,  notes  the  nnmber 
of  notches  on  it,  and  then  reads 
off,  from  a  board  banging  higher 
np,  a  verse  containing  what  may 
be  called  his  fortune,    bnt  is  in 
many  cases  rather  a  short  homily 
addressed  to  his  characteristic  de- 
fect.   The  date  inscribed  on  the 
cylinder  is  188S.    The  paper  labels 
that  will  be  noticed  on  the  pillars 
are  stack  there  by  pilgrims,  and 
contain  their  names,  addresses,  and 
date  of  pilgrimage — are  in  fact  a  • 
sort  of  visiting  card.     The  small  . 
image  near  the  entrance  is  Bisha- 
mon.   A  little  room  to  the  r.,  known 
as    the    Qenji  no  Ma,  is  said    to 
have  been  occupied  by  Muraisaki 
Shikibn,    a   famous    authoress    of 
about  A.D.  1000,  during  the  com-  ; 
position  of  her  great  romance,  the 
Genji  Monogaiari.    A  small  fee  to 
the  custodian  will  unlock  the  door,  . 
and  enable  the  visitor  to  inspect  | 
the  ink-slab  she  used,  a  M.S.  Bud-  ' 
dhist  Sutra  said  to  be  in  her  hand-  | 
writing,  and  some    mineralogical  ' 
8X)ecimens. 

The  grounds  contain  several 
minor  temples  and  other  build- 
ings. Walking  up  past  the  pagoda, 
one  reaches  the  TsvJci-mi  no  Chin, 
whose  name  means  literally  'the 
Moon-Gazing  Arbonr*.  This  point 
affords  a  charming  view  of  the  lake, 
the  river,  the  long  bridge,  and 
the  mountains  enclosing  the  basin 
of  the  lake  to  the  E.,  the  fore- 
ground being,  however,  somewhat 
spoilt  by  rising  ground  all  along 
the  1.  bank  of  the  river.  Ishi- 
yama-dera  is  famous  for  the  beauty 
of  its  maple-trees  in  autumn. 

All  the  above  can  easily  be  seen 
within  the  limits  of  one  day — Mii- 
dera,  Karasaki,  and  Sakamoto 
being  taken  in  the  morning,  and 
the  Long  Bridge  with  Ishiyama- 
dera  in  a  short  afternoon.  A 
second  day  will, be, required  to  do 
the  chief  places  on  the  E.  shore  of 
the  lake — Hikone  and  Nagahama^ 
with  perhaps  Chikubu-shima. 


Hikoae  (Inns,  *  Bakn-rakn-tei, 
near  the  castle-moat,  with  bean- 
tifol  garden ;  Matsu-ya)  is  pictu- 
resquely situated  on  the  shore  of 
the  lake,  and  possesses  the  remains 
of  a  fine  feudal  castle,  formerly  tiie 
seat  of  a  Daimyo  called  li-Kamon^ 
no-Kami.  ^ 

This  eaetle  was  about  to  perish  in  the 
general  min  of  such  bnildines  whidi  ac- 
companied the  mania  for  aU  things  Emo- 
pean  and  the  contempt  of  their  natiooal 
antiquities,  irhereby  the  Japanese  were 
actuated  Annns;  the  first  two  decades  of  flie 
present  rigime.  It  so  chanced,  however, 
that  the  Mikado,  on  a  pro^rress  throi^|L 
Central  Japan,  spent  anight  at  Hikone* 
and  finding  the  local  oflScials  busy  pallioflr 
down  the  old  castle,  commanded  them  to 
desist.  The  lover  of  the  picturesque  will 
probably  be  more  grateful  to  His  Majesty 
for  this  gracions.nct  of  clemency  towards  a 
doomed  edifice  than  for  many  scores  of  the 
improvements  which  the  present  GoYem* 
ment  has  set  on  foot,  more  especially  when 
the  so-Citlled  Improvements  relate  to  axdd- 
tecture. 

About  3^  ri  from  Hikone,  in  the 
hills  towards  Seki-ga-hara,  is  a  fish- 
breeding  establishment  (Yogydba), 
where  salmon  and  salmon-trout  aro 
reared  according  to  the  most  ap- 
proved modem  methods.  The  place 
may  be  also  reached  from  Maibara 
station,  whence  the  distance  is  but 
2  ri  13  eho, 

Nagahama  {Inn,  Masu-ya  at  rail- 
way station),  also  on  the  lake,  is 
the  finest  town  between  Otsu  and 
Tsuruga,  and  enjoys  a  delightful 
vifw. 

This  place  is  celebrated  for  its  crape 
cnlled  Hamn-chirimen,  for  taumngi  woven 
from  spun  silk,  and  for  mosquito  netting, 
most  of  which  is  made  in  the  surrounding; 
villages  by  weavers  who  receive  the  thread 
from  the  dealerzt  in  the  town  and  return  it 
to  them  made  up.  tWhen  the  crape  comes 
from  the  weavers,  it  presents  the  appearance 
of  gauze,  and  has  to  be  boiled  by  persons 
called  nerii/a.  Upon  drying  it  shrinks  con- 
siderably in  breadth,  and  assumes  the 
wrinkled  texture  proper  to  crape.  There 
are  two  qualities,  one  peifectly  white, 
which  alone  is  suitable  fur  dyeing  scarlet, 
and  another  of  a  pale  bluish  tint,  which 
will  take  all  other  dyes.  A  large  quantity 
of  the  raw  silk  used  in  this  manufacture  is 
produced  in  the  neighbourhood. 

The  island  of  Chikiiba-shiina, 
which  is  not  often  touched  at  by 


Chikuhmhhna.    Hid-zan, 


d28 


1ih.e  lake  steamers,  can  be  reached 
from  Nagahama,  3  ri  by  boat.  A 
better  plan  still  is  to  take  a  jinriki- 
sha  from  Nagahama  to  the  vill.  of 
Hayazaki,  whence  it  is  only  a 
passage  of  50  chd.  Eemember  that 
Liake  Biwa^  like  most  lakes,  is 
subject  to  sudden  squalls,  so  that 
it  is  always  advisable  to  engage 
■ana.  extra  boatman  in  case  of  need. 
Ch-ikubu-shima,  which  is  high  and 
tbickly  wooded,  has  a  small  temple 
-to  the  goddess  Benten.  It  is  a 
^wronderful  sight,  at  the  approach 
of  evening,  to  see  the  birds  flock- 
ing in  thousands  to  the  island  to 
roost. 

The  return  journey  by  train 
from  Nagahama  to  Otsu  calls  for 
no  special  description,  the  moun- 
tains etc.  that  are  seen  being  those 
already  often  mentioned. 

•3. — Kyoto  to  Otsu  over  Hiei-zan. 

This  delightful  alternative  way 
of  reaching  Otsu  fronl  Kyoto  may 
foe  taken  either  on  foot  or  on  horse- 
back, jinrikishas  also  being  avail- 
able for  about  li  ri  at  the  begin- 
ning of  the  excursion  and  for  2  ri 
at  the  end,  from  Sakamoto  (see  p. 
319)_along  the  shoye  of  Lake  Biwa 
to   Otsu.    The  whole  trip  can  be 
accomplished  on  ponies  in  about  6 
hrs.,  or  say  one  short  day,  includ- 
ing a  picnic  on  the  mountain.  The 
same  time  is  required  if,  instead 
of  proceeding  on  to  Otsu,  the  party 
prefer  to  return    to    Kyoto.      In 
either  case  the  day's  programme 
may  be  so  arranged,  on  starting 
from  Kyoto,  as  to  include  a  visit 
to  Ginkakujl  and  Shugaku-in  (the 
latter  only  for  those  having  admis- 
sion to  the  Kyoto  palaces,  see  p. 
287).    The  view  from  the  summit 
of  Hiei-zan  is  among  the  finest  in 
Japan,  comprising,  as  it  does,  a 
magnificent     panorama     of     the 
valley  of  Kyoto  and  of  Lake  Biwa 
and  its  shores.    Only  towards  the 
N.  is  the  prospect  cut  off  by  Hira- 
yama.      Arrangements    should  be 
made  for  lunching  at  the  summit. 


in  order  to  enjoy  the  view  at 
leisure.  The  spot,  known  by  the 
name  of  Shimei-ga-take,  is  grassy, 
and  rises  to  a  height  of  some  2,700 
ft.  above  the  sea  level. 

The  original  name  of  Hiei-zan  was  Hie- 
no-yama,  perhaps  meaning  the  'ChiUy 
Mountain  ;*  and  the  Shinto  temple  of  Hie 
at  Sakamoto  at  the  E.  foot  of  the  moun- 
tain, popularly  known  as  SannS  Sama, 
is  called  after  it.  During  the  middle 
ages  Hiei-zan  was  covered  with  Buddhist 
temples  and  seminaries,  the  total  aggre- 
gate of  such  buildings  heiag  stated  at  the 
extraordinary  number  of  3,000;  and  the 
monks,  who  were  often  ignorant,  truculent, 
and  of  disorderly  habits,  became  the  terror 
of  Kyoto,  on  which  peaceful  city  they 
would  sweep  down  ofter  the  manner  of 
banditti.  At  last,  in  the  16th  century,  the 
great  warrior  Nobunaga,  in  order  to  re- 
venge himself  upon  the  monks  for  having^ 
sided  with  his  enemy  Asakura,  Lord  of 
Echizen,  attacked  the  temples  and  com- 
mitted them  to  the  flames.  The  monka 
were  dispersed  far  and  w^ide  until  the 
accession  to  power  of  the  Tokugawa  Sh9- 
gruns,  who  re-established  the  institntioa 
on  a  smaller  scale,  the  number  of  the 
seminaries  being  limited  to  125. 

On  the  way  down  the  mountain 
towards  the  lake  many  now  de- 
serted shrines  are  passed,  till  at 
the  base  the  fine  temple  buildings 
just  above  the  vill.  of  Sakamoto 
are  reached.  The  way  thence  into 
Otsu  is  through  Sakamoto  and 
Karasaki,  where  a  halt  should  be 
made  to  look  at  the  giant  pine- 
tree  (see  p.  319). 


d24 


Eoute  45. — Nara  and  NeUflibourhood, 


ROUTE  45. 

NaBA  and  NsiaHBOUAUOOD. 

Nara  is  now  best  reached  by 
train  from  Osaka.  One  of  the 
intermediate  stations,  Horyuji,  pos- 
sesses considerable  interest. 

Osaka-Naba  Eailwat. 


Distance 

from 

Osaka. 

Names 

of 
Stations. 

Remarks. 

2}m. 

n 

10 

i5i 

18 

22* 

26* 

OSAKA  (Minato- 

machi). 
Tennoji. 
Hirano. 

Yao  

(Alight     for 
V     temple  of 
(     Shigi-sen. 

rChange  for 
1     Takada  and 
(     Sakurai. 

KasliiwalMira. 
dii 

Horj'aji. 

Koriyama. 

NARA. 

_  The  line,  leaving  the  S.E.  end  of 
Osaka,  passes  along  a  wide,  cul- 
tivated plain  encircled  at  a  con- 
siderable distance  by  mountains, 
those  ahead  and  to  the  r.  being  the 
monntains  of  Yamato,  the  province 
in  which  Nara  stands.  The  scenery 
is  picturesque  between  Kashiwa- 
bara  and  Oji,  after  which  latter 
place  on  to  Nara  it  becomes 
flat. 

I'rom  Yao  it  is  50  did  to  Shigi-sen, 
the  scene  of  a  famous  victory  by 
Shotoku  Taishi  over  the  rebel  Mo- 
nonobe-no-Moriya.  The  temple  is 
dedicated  to  Bishamon,  who  is  sup- 
posed to  have  lent  his  assistance 
to  the  victor.  It  is  adorned  with  the 
crest  of  centipedes  peculiar  to  that 
divinity.  There  is  rather  a  good 
view. 

At  Kashiwabara  is  a  temple 
called  Domyoji  to  which  yearly 
pilgrimages  are  made.    The  viU.  of 

Horyiiji  (Injis,  Daikoku  -  ya, 
Xase-ya)  takes  its  name  from  a 
■very  ancient  monastery,  which, 
though  somewhat  battered  by  time. 


well  merits  a  visit  from  all  lovers 
of  art  and  antiquity.     ^ 

The  monastery  of  HoryQji  is  the  oldest 
Baddhist  temple  in  Japnn,  having  been 
founded  by  Shotoku  Taishi  and  completed, 
in  A.D.  607.  Owing  to  its  unusually  im- 
portant collection  of  art  treasures,  it  has 
attracted  the  attention  of  art  critics  and 
of  the  Imperial  Grovernment,  the  latter 
having  in  lfc87  given  a  sum  of  the  $10,000 
towards  its  support.  There  is  also  a  local 
Hozon-kwai,  or  Society  for  the  Preservation 
of  the  Temple.  The  temple  is  always 
open,  excepting  on  certain  special  occa- 
sions. A  fee  of  $1  should  be  given  to  the 
custodian,  who  will  show  the  visitor  the 
various  objects  of  art  (reikd-mono) . 

Instead  of  entering  by  the  main 
gate,  called  Ahezu-no-mon-,  it  is 
usual  to  take  a  short  cut  throuf^h 
the  Hachiman  gate  close  to  the  inns. 
In  this  way*  the  Yume-dono  is  first 
visited,  and  the  principal  part  of 
the  monastery  is  taken  afterwards. 
The  Yume-dono,  or  Hall  or  Dreams^ 
an  octagonal  building  in  the 
centre  of  an  enclosure  surrounded 
by  a  closed  gallery,  is  dedicated  to 
Kwannon. 

On  the  E.  of  the  image  of  this 
goddess  is  •  that  of  the  Eleven- 
faced  Kwannon  (600  years  old)^ 
and  on  the  W.,  Shotoku  Taishi^ 
J, 100  years  old.  The  Yumedono 
is  now  generally  kept  closed. 
Behind  it  is  a  long  building,  in  the- 
r.  part  of  which,  called  the  Shari- 
den,  the  pupil  of  the  left  eye  of 
Buddha  is  kept.  It  is  shown  every 
day  at  noon.  The  walls  are  covered 
with  paintings  by  a  Chinese 
artist  named  Shun-in.  In  the  1. 
part  of  the  building,  called  Go- 
Eiden,  are  wall-pictures  repre- 
senting the  events  of  the  prince's 
life,  attributed  to  Hada  noChishin, 
A.D.  1069.  In  this  room  is  the 
ancient  bronze  image  caUed  the 
YumB'tagai  no  Kitxinnon,  which  is 
invoked  to  counteract  the  effects  of 
bad  dreams.  Other  buildings  near 
by  are  the  Denibo-do  connected  by  a 
small  bridge,  and  Sogenji. 

Leaving  this  part  of  the  monas- 
tery, we  pass  through  a  gate- 
way and  come  to  a  buildings 
which    contains    a    small    eques- 


Temple  of  Hdryuji, 


825 


trian  statue  of  Shotoku  Taishi 
subduing  Moriya-no-Daijin ;  the  in- 
cident is  depicted  in  greater  detail 
upon  the  ex-voto  painting  outside. 
In  the  corresponding  building,  call- 
ed Taishi-do  or  8hdry6-in,  .which 
is  said  to  be  in  the  same  style  as 
the  Shishin-den  or  Chief  Reception 
Hall  of  the  ancient  palace  of  Nara, 
is  an  image  of  the  prince  at  the 
age  of  35,  attributed  to  himself, 
and  a  Nyo-i-rin  Kwannon  and  Jizo 
by  a  Korean  sculptor  of  the  6th 
century. 

We  now  approach  the  chief 
temples,  which  are  contained  in  an 
oblong  enclosure  surrounded  by  a 
large  closed  gallery  or  hwairo.  The 
Ni'd  in  the  two-storied  gateway  are 
remarkable  statues ;  the  black  one 
is  carved  out  of  a  single  cryp- 
tomeria  trunk,  and  the  red  one 
opposite  is  of  wood  covered  with 
clay.  The  Kondo,  which  stands  a 
little  on  the  1.  of  the  entrance, 
and  the  pagoda,  are  all  that  are 
left  of  the  original  buildings,  and 
are  the  oldest  wooden  structures 
in  Japan,  their  age  being  more 
than  twelve  centuries  and  a  half. 
The  Kondo  contains,  on  the  S.  side, 
a  bronze  image  of  Buddha,  for- 
merly gilt,  attributed  to  Tori  Bus- 
shi,  flanked  by  Yakuo  Bosatsu  and 
Yakujo  Bosatsu.  On  the  E.  side 
is  Yakushi  Nyorai,  also  by  Tori 
Bnsshi,  with  Nikko  Bosatsu  and 
Gwakko  Bosatsu  r.  and  1.  The  W. 
side  is  occupied  by  Amida,  accom- 
panied by  Kwannon  and  Seishi. 
These  three  images  were  cast  in 
1231  to  replace  the  original  ones, 
which  had  been  stolen.  The  wooden 
figures  of  Tamon-Ten  and  Kichijo- 
Ten  date  also  from  the  middle  of 
the  13th  century.  The  Shi-Tenno 
are  by  two  Chinese  sculptors,  and 
belong  to  the  middle  of  the  7th  cen- 
tury. The  bronze  image  of  Yaku- 
shi and  the  wooden  figure  of  Fu- 
gen  are  said  to  have  been  brought 
to  Japan  by  the  Indian  priest 
whose  name  is  translated  Zemui. 
On  the  N.  side  is  another  bronze 


Amida,  flanked  by  Kwannon  and 
Seishi,  said  to  have  belonged  to 
Komyo  Tenno  (A.D.  1336  to  1348). 
The  lanky  wooden  figure  of  Koku- 
zo  Bosatsu,  "8  ft.  high,  and  the 
wooden  Kwannon  are  said  to  be 
Indian.  The  walls  are  covered 
with  paintings  of  Buddhist  sub- 
jects, executed  in  a  noble  manner, 
attributed  to  the  sculptor  Tori 
Bus&hi  and  a  Korean  priest  of  the 
same  early  period.  These  are  of 
extreme  interest  and  value  for  the 
history  of  art  in  Japan.  Of  their 
great  antiquity  there  can  be  little 
doubt,  and  the  excellence  of  the 
style  in  itself  confirms  the  opinion 
that  they  are  the  work  of  Korean 
artists,  for  they  are  superior  to 
anything  known  to*  have  been 
produced  by  Japanese  painters. 
The  ground-floor  of  the  pagoda  con- 
tains some  very  curious  tinted 
terra-cotta  groups  ascribed  to 
Tori  Busshi;  on  the  S.,  Amida 
with  Kwannon  and  Daiseishi ; 
on  the  E.,  Monju  and  Jomyo 
Koji  or  Yuima;  on  the  N.,  the 
entry  of  Shaka  into  Nirvana; 
and  on  the  "W.  his  cremation. 
The  expression  on  the  countenan- 
ces of  some  of  the  weeping  disciples 
is  excellent;  their  costume  repre- 
sents what  was  supposed  by  the 
sculptor  to  be  Indian  dress.  The 
Dai'Kodo,  or  great  Lecture  Hall, 
on  the  N.  side  of  the  closed  gallery, 
is  dedicated  to  Yakushi  and  a  host 
of  other  deities. 

On  a  mound  behind  is  the  Mine 
no  Yakushi,  an  octagonal  building 
dedicated  to  Yakushi.  This  image 
and  the  twelve  smaller  images 
representing  the  Signs  of  the 
Zodiac  are  attributed  to  Gyogi 
Bosatsu.  This  temple  is  a  unique 
sight,  being  literally  hidden  under 
the  enormous  number  of  short 
swords  and  metal  mirrors  placed 
there  as  offerings  by  men  and 
women  respectively,  whose  prayers 
for  restoration  to  health  have 
proved  efficacious.  Drills,  pre- 
sented by  persons  who  have  been 


826 


Route  45. — Kara  and  NeighbourJtood, 


cured  of  deafness,  also  line  the  walls 
in  great  numbers.  The  Kami  no  d5, 
a  building  on  the  r.,  contains  colos- 
sal images  of  Shaka,  Monju,  Fugen, 
the  Shjl^Tenno,  a  group  representing 
the  death  of  Buddha,  and  paintings 
depicting  the  eight  scenes  of  his  ex- 
istence, viz.  his  birth  in  theTushita 
heaven,  his  conception  by  Maya 
Bunin,  his  birth  on  earth,  admission 
into  the  priesthood,  temptations, 
perfection,  preaching,  and  entry 
intoNirv&na.  In  the  building  called 
Sankyo-in,  on  the  W.  side  of  the 
closed  gallery,  is  an  image  of  Sho- 
teku  Taishi  at  the  age  of  42,  be- 
sides an  Amida  by  Gyogi,  a  Monju, 
a  Miroku,  and  the  Shi-Tenno. 

The  principal  annual  festival  at 
Horyiijiis  celebrated  on  the  22nd 
day  of  the  9th  moon,  according  to 
the  old  Japanese  calendar. 

[Some  12  cho  fromHoryuji  stands 
Tatta,  formerly  pronounced 
Tatsuta,  which  is  famous  in 
Japanese  poetry  for  the  maples 
lining  the  banks  of  the  river 
that  passes  by  it.  Near  Horyuj i 
too  is  the  misasagi,  or  tumulus, 
of  Suinin  Tenno,  a  prehistoric 
Mikado  supposed  to  have 
reigned  at  the  beginning  of 
the  Christian  era.  It  is  a 
large  and  striking  gourd- 
shaped  mound,  planted  with 
trees  and  having  a  broad  new 
moat  round  it,  and  at  one  end 
a  small  torii  forming  the  ap- 
proach, to  a  neat  gravel  walk.] 

Koriyama  (Inn,  Kiku-ya).  The 
walls  of  Nara,  when  that  city  was 
the  capital,  extended  almost  to  what 
is  now  the  E.  limit  of  thid  town. 

Nasa. 

Nara,  sometimes  called  Nanto  by 
the  learned  (Inn8,  Musashino,  pret- 
tily situated  in  the  park  at  the 
foot  of  Mikasa-yama;  Kado-ya, 
convenient  central  situation ;  both 
semi-foreign.  Also  Kiku-ya,  Japan- 
ese; Jap.  restaurant,  Sawano-ya, 
near  Kobukuji). 


The  chief  products  of  Nara 
Indian  ink,  fans,  and  little  wooden 
toy  figures  of  the  No  performances^ 
called  Nara  ningyo. 

Nara  was  the  capital  of  Japan  daring 
seven  reigns,  from  A.D.  709  to  784,  when. 
the  Emperor  Ewammu  removed  the  cott> 
of  government  to  the  province  of  Yairut- 
shiro.  The  town  has  at  the  present  day 
probably  but  a  tenth  of  its  former  dimen- 
sions. It  is  situated  in  the  North  of 
Yamato,  close  to  the  boundary  of  Yama- 
shiro,  and  at  the  foot  of  a  range  of  moctzi- 
tains  which  runs  N.  a^d  S.,  rouglily 
dividing  the  upper  part  of  Yamato  into 
two  halves.  The  site  where  the  palace 
stood  is  about  three  miles  W.  of  the  to^m 
on  the  Hokkeji  road. 

From  the  Musashino  inn,  tlie 
chief  sights  of  Nara  may  be  con- 
veniently taken  in  the  following* 
order  on  the  way  back  to  the  rail- 
way station. 

.    Kasnga  no  Miya. 

This  temple  is  dedicated  to  the  ancestor 
of  the  Fujiwara  family,  the  Shinto  ^od. 
Ama-no-Koyane,  to  his  wife,  and  to  the 
gods  or  mythical  heroes  Take-mikazuchi 
and  Futsu-nushi.  It  is  said  to  have  been 
founded  in  the  year  767,  at  the  desire  of 
Take-mikazuchi,  who  rode  up  to  Nara  on 
a  white  deer  in  search  of  a  new  residence, 
and  then  summoned  the  other  three  gods 
to  come  and  dwell  with  him  there.  The 
great  yearly  festival  is  held  on  the  17th. 
December. 

From  the  inn  the  path  descends 
the  stops  past  the  shops  wh'ere  the 
Nara  ningyo  and  articles  made  oat 
of  deer's  horns  are  sold,  crosses  a 
bridge  over  a  tiny  stream  called 
the  Izagawa.)  and  turns  up  to  the  1. 
through  a  red  paintod  -tomple  de- 
dicated to  Otozu  Tenno,  under 
which  name  Susa-no-o  is  frequently 
worshipped.  It  then  continues 
through  the  wood  to  a  clearing  at 
the  back  of  the  tomple,  where 
tame  deer  usually  congregate  in 
the  expectation  of  being  fed,  and, 
passing  through  rows  of  stone 
lanterns  of  which  it  is  said  that 
no  one  knows  the  number,  enters 
the  Main  Temple  through  a  side 
gate  in  the  8vjikai-no-Ma,  a  gallery 
attributed  to  the  famous  carver 
Hidari  Jingoro.  The  bright  red  of 
the  temple  edifices  and  the  count- 


Kdsuga,     TamiUce-yaina.     Ni-gwatsU'dd, 


827 


less  brass  lanterns  with  which  they 
are  hunfif,  contrast  strikingly  with 
the  reposeful  green  of  the  magni- 
ficent cryptomerias  all  around  and 
between  the  buildings.  The  open 
shed  called  the  Haiya,  or  Oratory, 
where  in  ancient  times  the  Dai- 
niyos  used  to  come  to  worship,  is 
now  used  by  the  townspeople  on 
the  evening  of  tha '  Hetsuhun  (3rd 
February)  for  the  performance  of 
the  ceremony  of  scattering  beans 
to  expel  evil  spirits.  In  the  S.W. 
<jorner  of  the  outer  gallery  is  a 
small  shrine  to  Saruta-hiko,  the 
god  who  is  supposed  to  be  lord  of 
the  soil. 

According  to  the  myth,  this  |?ocl  made 
an  agreement  with  the  god  of  Kashima  to 
lease  3  ft.  of  eailh  to  him  ;  but  the  latter 
fuiiniugly  enclosed  3  ri  square  of  ground 
tlirring  the  night,  pretending  that  the 
•  three  £eet  *  in  the  ctmtract  referred  only 
to  the  depth  of  soil.  It  is  the  popular 
l>elief  that,  in  conaetiuence  of  this  trick 
x)f  Take-mikazuchi,  no  ti-ee  on  Kasuga- 
yama  sends  its  roots  more  tlian  3  ft.  below 
the  surface. 

At  the  end  of  a  long  avenue  of 
standing  lanterns  to  the  r.  of  the 
Main  Temple  stands  the  Wakamiya, 
a  temple  dedicated  to  Ama-no-oshi- 
kumo,  son  of  Ama-no-koyane. 
Many  of  the  lanterns  which  line 
the  approach  are  lighted  every 
night.  Formerly,  when  the  annual 
subscriptions  for  that  purpose  were 
liberal,  all  were  lighted,  and  the 
43ffect  produced  among  the  dark 
evergreens  of  the  gi'ove  was 
highly  picturesque.  In  front  are 
an  oi)en  shed  where  pilgrims 
bow  down,  and  a  long  low  building 
occupied  by  the  priests.  A  few 
young  girls  are  in  attendance 
to  perform  the  ancient  dance 
<»lled  kagura.  Their  dress  consists 
■of  a  pair  of  wide  red  trowsers,  a 
white  under- garment,  and  a  long 
gauzy  mantle  adorned  with  the 
Kasuga  crest  of  wistaria.  Their 
hair  is  gathered  into  a  long  tr^ss 
which  hangs  down  behind  j  a  chap- 
let  of  artificial  flowers — the  wis- 
taria and  scarlet  single  camellia, — 
is  worn  on  the  forehead,  and  the 


face  is  plastered  thickly  with  white- 
lead  powder.  The  girls  hold  in 
their  hands,  as  the  dance  proceeds, 
now  a  fan,  and  now  a  bunch  of 
small  bells.  The  orchestra  consists 
of  three  priests  who  perform  on  the 
drum  and  flute,  and  sing  a  hymn. 
The  payment  demanded  is  from  50 
sen  up  to  $10,  according  to  the 
length  of  the  performance.  The 
Oka-no-in,  a  temple  beyond  the 
Wakamiya,  is  uninteresting. 

Returning  to  the  Musashino  inn 
the  way  he  came,*  the  traveller  can 
go  for  a  short  way  by  jinrikisha 
through  the  wood  to  the 
•  Tamuke-yania  no  Hachiman,  an- 
other red  and  white  Shinto  temple, 
now  somewhat  decayed,  but  cele- 
brated in  Japanese  poetry  as  the 
scene  of  an  ode  by  Sugawara-no- 
Michizane,  included  in  the  famous 
*  Century  of  Poets '  (Hyaku-nin  Is- 
shu),  which  all  Japanese  have  by 
heart.     It  says : 

KoHo  iahi  tea 

Nuw.  iuo  iui'i-aezu 
Tumnke-mma^ 

Momiji  no  nitthiki 

Kami  ho  hiani-mani 

which  mfcy  be  roughly  rendered 
thus : 

*  This  time  I  bring  with  me  no 
offerings;  the  gods  may  take  to 
their  hearts*  content  of  the  damask 
of  -the  maple-leaves  on  Mount 
Tamuke' — the  allusion  being  to 
the  maple-trees  which  grow  in 
plenty  on  this  spot.  The  brightly 
coloured  biural  picture  in  the  build- 
ing 1.  on  entering  represents  the 
encounter  at  the  E>ashd-mon  in 
Kyoto  between  Watanabe-no-Tsu- 
na  and  the  ogre.  Leaving  Tamuke- 
yama,  and  passing  the  temples  of 
San-gwatsu-do  and  Shi-gwatsu-do, 
now  too  much  decayed  to  deserve 
more  than  a  parenthetical  re- 
ference to  the  great  gaunt  images 
contained  in  them,  we  reach  the 

Ni-griratsii-do,  a  fine  Buddhist 
temple  of  original  aspect.  It  seems 
to  cling  to  the  side  of  the  hill 
against  which  it  is  built  out  on 


B28 


Eoute  45, — Kara  and  NeigJilourhood. 


piles,  and  is  led  up  to  by  a 
steep  flight  of  stone  steps,  while 
a  perfect  cloud  of  metal  lanterns 
liung  all  along  the  front  lend  their 
quota  of  peculiarity  to  the  general 
appearance.  Parallel  to  the  flight 
of  steps  on  the  other  side,  is  a 
gallery  called  Taimatsu  no  Roka,  or 
Torch  Gallery,  because  torch-light 
processions  wend  their  way  up  it 
on  the  great  festival  night,  the  3rd 
February.  It  is  believed  to  be 
miraculously  preserved  against 
danger  from  fire.  The  view  over 
the  town  from  the  front  is  fine, 
magnificent  timber  and  the  tiled 
roof  of  the  Hall  of  the  Daibutsu 
l)eing  the  most  noticeable  features. 

The  Ni-grwatsn-do,  which  is  dedicwted  to 
Kwannon,  was  founded  in  A.D.  752,  though 
the  present  buildinar  is  only  about  two  cen- 
turies old.  Aooording  to  tne  leeend,  a  tiny 
copper  image  of  Kwiinnon  had  been  picked 
tip,  which  possessed  the  miraculous  qua- 
lity of  being  w.^rm  likf  livinar  flesh.  Evei: 
8tiice  it  WHS  enshrined  in  this  temple,  the 
custom  has  been  i.o  hold  a  special  series 
of  services  called  Datton  no  Okonni  during 
the  first  hnlf  of  the  second  month  of  the 
year,  whence  the  name  Ni-gwatsu-do  (Hall 
of  the  Second  Moon).  TJ-e  image  is  ex- 
posed for  udoiation  on  the  18.h  of  each 
month. 

Descending  the  Torclf  Gallery, 
we  reach  a  well  called  Wakasa  no 
J,  contained  in  a  small  building 
which  is  opened  only  on  the  1st 
February  of  each  year. 

The  les-end  siys  that  when  the  founder 
dedicited  the  temple,  the  god  of  On>tiin 
the  province  of  Wnkasa  begged  leave  to 
provide  the  holy  water,  whereupon  a  white 
«nd  a  black  cormorant  flew  out  of  the  rock 
and  disappeared,  while  water  gushed  forth 
from  the  hole.  From  that  time  the  str»am 
wh  ch  had  flowed  past  tlte  chapel  of  Onytl 
dried  un.  its  waters  having  been  transferred 
to  the  Ni-gwrttsu-do.  L  ical  report  tells  of 
tinbelievers  having  become  convinced  <»f  the 
truth  of  the  miracle  by  throwing  rice-husks 
into  the  original  spring  in  WakasH,  which 
turned  up  after  a  due  interval  in  the 
spring  here  at  Nara. 

We  next  reach  the  enclosure  of 
Todaiji,  first  passing  the  famous 
bell  which  hangs  in  a  substantial 
belfry, 

This  great  bell  was  cas^  in  AD.  732.  Its 
measurements  are  height  13  ft.  6  in., 
greatest  diameter  9  ft.  1.3  in.,  and  ete&teBt 


thicknes«i  at  the  edge  8.4  in.  (Japane«?» 
measure).  Nearly  36  tons  of  copper  and 
1  ton  of  tin  were  used  in  the  casting. 

and  then  proceeding  downhill 
through  the  wood  to  the  hugre, 
imgainly  building  which  contains 
the  Daibiitsn,  or  Gigantic  Image  of 
Buddha,  larger  than  the  one  -at 
Kamakura,  though  much  less  ad- 
mirable as  a  work  of  art. 

Foimded  by  f^homu  Tenn5,  the  temple 
of  Todaiji  w«8  completed  about  the  year 
760,  but  on  a  mnch  grander  scale  than  it 
now  presents.  The  actual  building  con- 
taining the  Daibutsu,  though  it  dwtes  only 
frofn  the  beginninsr  of  the  18th  centnry,  is 
already  much  wenther-wom  and  out»»f  the- 
pen>pndicular.  Its  dimensions  are  stated 
as  follows:  height  156  ft.,  length  of  front 
2£0ft.,  depth  170  ft. 

The  Hall  has  recently  been  so 
arranged  that  one  may  enter  with- 
out taking  one's  boots  off.     Indeed 
the  whole  place  has  lost  its  religious 
character,  the  side  and  back  part 
of  the  building  having  been  turned 
into  an  exhibition,  thus  producing 
an  impression  of  desecration  which 
is  extremely  painful.     The  height 
of     the    image     is     said     to     be 
53  ft.,   or   7  ft.    higher    than  the 
Daibutsu  at  Kamakui*a.     It  is  in  a 
sitting     posture,     with    the    legs 
crossed,   the   right  hand  uplifted, 
with  the  palm  outwards  and  the  tips 
of  the  fingers  about  on  a  level  with 
the  shoulder,  and  the  left  hand  rest- 
ing on  the  knee  with  the  back  of  the 
fingers  towards  the  spectator.    The 
body  of  the  image  and  all  the  most 
ancient  part  of  the  lotus-flowers 
on  which  it  is  seated  are  apparently 
formed  of  plates  of  bronze  10  in.  by 
12   in.,  soldered  together,    except 
the  modern  parts,  which  are  much 
larger  castings.     The  petals  of  the 
reversed  lotus  seem  to   be  single 
castings,  and  the  head,   which  is 
much  darker  in  colour,  also  looks 
like  a  single  piece.      A    peculiar 
method  of   construction   is  said  to- 
have    been    adopted — namely,    of 
gradually  building  up  the  walls  of 
the  mould  as  the  lower  part  of  the 
casting  cooled,  instead  of  construct- 
ing the    whole    mould  first,  and 


The  Daibutsu. 


829 


then  making  the  casting  in  a  single 
piece.  The  thickness  of  the  casting 
varies  from  6  in.  to  10  in.      The 
original    parts    of  the    upturned 
lotus  forming  the  image's  seat,  are 
engraved  with  representations  of 
Buddhist  gods  and  of    Shumisen 
(Sanskrit,  Sumet'u),  the  central  axis 
of     the  universe,    surrounded    by 
various  tiers   of    heavens.      Here 
and  there    traces    of    substantial 
gilding  are  visible,  which  lead  to 
the    conjecture    that    the    whole 
image  was  probably  gilt  when  first 
made.     The  modern  head  is  ugly, 
owing  to  its  black  colour,  and  to 
its     broad    nostrils    and    swollen 
cheeks.      Behind    it    rises    up    a 
briglftly   gilt   wooden    glory  con- 
taining large  images  of   Bosatsu. 
Visitors  are  allowed  to  walk  up  a 
scaffolding  to  inspect  the    upper 
and  back  parts  of  the  image.     On 
the   Daibutsu's  r.  hand  is  a  gilt 
image  of  Kokuzo  Bosatsu,  which, 
though  18  ft.  high,  looks  as  nothing 
in  comparison.   To  the  1.  is  a  Nyo-i- 
rin  Kwannon    of  the  same    size. 
Both    these    subordinate    images 
-date  from  the  beginning  of  the  18th 
century. 

Tlie  history  of  the  Xara  Daibutsii  is  as 
follows.  In  the  year  736  the  Empei-or  Sho- 
rn ii  conceived  the  idea  of  constructing  a 
colossal  Buddhist  image,  but  fearing  to 
-offend  the  native  gods,  sent  the  priest 
Gyogi  to  the  Sun-Goddess's  temple  in  Ise 
to  present  her  with  a  relic  of  Buadha,  and 
find  out  h6w  she  would  regard  his  project, 
iiyogi  passed  seven  days  and  nights  at 
the  foot  of  a  tree  close  to  her  gate,  at  the 
«nd  of  which  time  the  chapel  doors  flew 
open,  and  a  loud  voice  i)ioncuaced  an 
oracular  sentence  which  was  interpreted 
in  a  favourable  sense.  On  the  night  after 
the  priest's  return,  the  MiUado  dreamt 
that  the  Sun-Goddess  api)eared  to  him,  and 
announced  her  approval  of  his  plan  of 
■erecting  a  Buddhist  temple,  and  be  in  con- 
tie*  pience  determined  to  have  an  image 
160  ft.  high  made  of  gold  and  copper.  A 
proclamation  was  issued  in  74i,  calling 
ujwn  the  people  to  contribute,  and  in  744 
the  Mikado  himself  directed  the  construc- 
tion of  the  model.  The  image  was  to  \ye 
<'ast  at  Shigaraki  in  Omi,  the  then  capital; 
Vmt  two  years  later  the  Court  removed  to 
Nam,  and  the  image  was  not  completed. 
In  747  Shomu  began  the  casting  of  an- 
other image,  and  with  his  own  hands 
carried    earth    to    form    the  platform. 


Eight  attempts  in  all  were  made,  whicb. 
were  finally  crowned  with  success  ia 
749.  As  Japan  had  not  up  to  that  time 
produced  any  gold,  the  Mikado  was 
in  despair  lest  he  should  not  be  able 
to  procure  enough  of  that  metal  to  gild  it 
all  over;  but  the  discoveiy  of  gold  ia 
Osha  in  the  same  year  came  oi)portunely 
to  supply  the  want.  In  b59  the  head  erf 
the  image  fell  off,  but  was  replaced.  In. 
llbO  the  whole  building  was  destroyed  by 
fire  in  a  civil  war,  and  the  head  of  the 
image  was  melted  by  the  flames,  but  both 
temple  and  image  were  restored  fifteen, 
years  later.  The  temple  was  bjirnt  again 
in  1567,  and  once  more  the  head  of  the 
image  fell  off.  It  wafe  replaced  not  long 
after  at  the  expense  of  a  private  in- 
dividual. From  this  time  the  tinage  re- 
mained exposed  to  the  elements  in  the 
condition  of  a  nure-botoke  (wet-god),  as 
the  Japanese  familiarly  sav,  until  the 
reconstruction  of  the  temple  some  130 
years  later.  The  deity  represented  is 
Koshana,  or  Birushana',  an  impersonation 
of  light— a  Buddhist  personage  easily 
identified  by  priestly  ingenuity  with  the 
ShintS  Sun-Goddess. 

Immediately  behind  the  great 
image  are  shown  some  eighth  cen- 
tury masks,  tiles  of  the  original 
temple,  a  coloured  statuette  of  the 
abbot  Kokei  Shonin  who  built  the 
present  edifice,  etc.,  etc.  The  Ex- 
hibition proper — the  exhibits  being- 
set  out  in  cases  all  round  the  inner 
walls  of  the  Daibutsu-do — is  ex- 
tremely interesting,  for  the  antique 
objects  shown  are  very  numerous 
and  undoubtedly  genuine.  To  begin 
with,  there  is  a  large  number  of 
ancient  wooden  statues,  chiefly 
Buddhistic,  brought  together  from 
various  smaller  temples  in  Nara 
and  elsewheie.  Some  of  them  re- 
tain traces  of  rich  colouring.  Then 
there  are  carvings  in  high-relief  of 
the  12  followers  of  Yakushi,  at- 
tributed to  Kobo  Daishi  and  evi- 
dently very  old, — a  grotesque  but 
spirited  set.  Next  we  come  to 
some  curious  old  reliquaries,  mo- 
dels, musical  instruments,  swords, 
ancient  boxes,  articles  in  lacquer, 
pottery  and  porcelain,  woven  stuffs, 
masks  used  in  the  pantomimic 
dances  of  early  days,  and  horse- 
trappings.  At  the  end  are  some 
absurd  peep-shows. 

In  the    spacious    courtyard   in. 


830 


Iloute  45. — yara  and  NeighhoiirlioocL 


front  of  the  Daibutsu-do  is  a 
remarkable  ancient  octag^onal 
bronze  lantern,  with  Buddhist 
images  and  conventional  animals. 
It  is  ascritel  to  a  Chinese  artist  of 
the  8th  century,  and  is  ore  of  the 
earliest  specimens  of  snch  work. 
Behind  the  Dai)mtsn-do,  in  the 
wood,  is  a  celibrated  store-house 
in  which,  over  1,000  years  ago, 
specimens  of  all  the  articles  then 
in  daily  use  were  put  away,  thus 
forming  an  invaluable  archseolo- 
^ical  niusenm,  which,  however,  is 
nnforttinately  not  open  to  the 
public.  The  visitor  leaves  the 
grounds  of  Todaiji  and  its  Daibutsu 
by  two  large  gates,  called  respec- 
tively Niten-mon  and  Ni-o-nion.  The 
latter  has  in  the  exterior  niches  a 
colossal  pair  of  Ni-o^  which  are 
considered  admirable  specimens  of 
that  class  of  sculpture.  They  are 
attributed  to  Kwaikei,  about  the 
year  1095.  The  interior  niches 
contain  a  remarkable  pair  of  stone 
lions  of  unknown  date.  Joining 
the  great  avenue  which  leads 
up  to  the  temple  of  Kasuga,  but 
walking  down  instead  of  uj)  it  and 
passing  through  the  large  toHi,  we 
come  to  the  Kiku-ya  Hotel,  beyond 
which,  to  the  r.,  is  the  Buddhist 
temple  of 

Kobakiiji,  conspicuous  by  its  two 
pagodas.  This  once  grand  temple, 
foui\dcd  in  A.D.  7J0,  was  biumt  in 
1717  and  retains  little  of  its  ancient 
splendour.  The  following  build- 
ings may  be  mentioned  : — the 
Tokondo,  dedicated  to  Yakushi 
Nyorai ; 

The  enormous  pine-tree  with  spreadinjj 
branches  supported  on  poles  in  fnnit  of  the 
TSkonrtd  is  said  to  have  Ijeen  planted  by 
Kdbo  Daishi  as  a  perpetual  offering  to  the 
god  Yakushi,  instead  of  flowers. 

the  Kondo,  which  is  full  of  excel- 
lent ancient  wooden  statues,  amidst 
a  crowd  of  which  will  be  distin- 
guished a  pair  of  Ni-o,  remarkable 
for  their  correct  anatomy,  and 
considered  by  some  connoisseurs 
to  be  the  best  examples  of  wood- 


carving  to  be  found  in  Japan? 
and  the  Nan-endo,  an  octag-onal 
building  containing  two  colossal 
images  of  Kwannon. 

The  octapronBl  shape  of  the  buildings  '» 
taken  from  the  fabulous  Buddhist  moun- 
tain Fudaraku-sen  (Sanskrit,  Fofft/tt}, 
which  is  supposed  to  l)e  Kwannon's 
favourite  retieat. 

The  two-storied  Euroi)ean  build- 
ing close  by  is  the  Prefecture. 

South  of  Kobukuji,  under  a  hill^ 
lies  a  pond  called  Sanisawa  no  Ike. 

The  local  legend  tells  of  a  beautiful 
maiden  at  the  Mikado's  court,  who  -was*- 
wooed  by  all  the  courtiers,  but  rejecte<L 
their  offers  of  marriage,  because  she  w«». 
in  love  with  the  Mikado.  The  latter  had 
pity  on  her  for  a  while ;  but  when  ho- 
afterwards  liegnn  to  neglect  her,  she  went 
secretly  away  by  night  and  drowned  her- 
self in  this  (Kind. 

The  small  platform  at  the  side 
of  the  road  to  the  r.  of  the  pond 
is  for  the  use  of  pilgrims  desirous 
of  performing  from  a  distance  their 
obeisances  to  the  Mausoleum  of 
Jimmu  Tenno  (see  p.  332).  Near 
the  outskirts  of  the  town  in  this- 
direction  are  the  tumuli  of  the  Em- 
perors Kaikwa  and  Shomu — mere 
mounds  interesting  only  to  the 
professed  antiquarian. 

This  ends  the  sights  of  K"ara. 
Those  with  a  little  time  to  spare- 
might  devote  it  to  walking  up 
Mikasa-yama  close  behind  the  Mu- 
sashino  Hotel.  From  the  stone  at 
the  summit  (6C0  ft.  above  the 
base),  a  fine  view  N.W.  is  ob- 
tained of  the  Kizugawa  vallejv 
and  "W.,  of  the  plain  of  Nara 
stretching  away  to  the  mountains 
which  divide  it  from  the  province 
of  Kawachi.  The  town  of  Kori- 
yama  lies  S.W. 

[Seven  ri  to  the  N.E.  of  Nara,  up. 
the  course  of  the  Kizugawa,. 
is  the  village  of  Tsiiki^ase,. 
famous  for  its  plum-tree  or- 
chards, which  line  the  stream 
for  upwards  of  2  ^.,  and 
diffuse  a  delicious  scent  in 
March  when  they  are  in  blos- 
som.   No  other  place  in  Japan 


Jtoute  46. — Through  Yamato  to  Koya-san, 


dSl 


can  boast  such  a  show  of  the 
pink  and  white  flowers  of  this 
fragrant  tree.  Some  rapids, 
which  occur  a  little  lower  down 
the  conrse  of  the  river,  afford  a 
pleasant  change  for  a  portion  of 
the  return  journey  to  Nara;  or 
else  the  traveller  may  join  the 
Kwansei  Bailway  at  Tsuge, 
and  proceed  either  W.  to  Kusa- 
tsu  and  Kyoto,  or  E.  to  Yok- 
kaichi  and  Tokyo.] 

A  pleasant  short  day's  excursion 
for  travellers  staying  at  Nara  is  to 
take  the  train  to  Hdryuji,  and,  after 
visiting  the  temple  there,  to  pro- 
ceed by  jinrikisha  to  Yakushi-ji,  a 
run  of  about  f  hr.  This  ancient 
temple,  also  known  as  Nishi-no-Kyo, 
is  now  indeed  sadly  decayed,  but 
the  bronze  image  of  Ewannon 
(Sho-Kwannon)  enshrined  in  it  is 
one  .of  the  most  precious  legacies  of 
Japanese — or  more  strictly  speak- 
ing, Korean — art.  The  temple  pos- 
sesses numerous  other  images,  as 
do  those  of  Shddaiji  and  Saidaiji 
in  the  vicinity,  all  formerly  famous, 
but  now  on  the  verge  of  ruin  owing 
to  neglect.  The  jinrikisha  ride 
back  from  Yakushiji  to  Nara  will 
occupy  about  2  hrs. 


EOUTE  46. 
Thbouoh  Yamato  to  the  Monas- 

TKBT  of  KoTA-SAN  IN  KiSHU. 

MAITSOLEUM  OF  JIMMU  TENNO, 
MIWA.  HASE.  TONOMINE.  Y08HIN0. 
[OMINE  AND  OTHER  MOUNTAINS.] 
KOYA-SAN.  [WAKAYAMA.]  FROM 
KOYA-SAN  TO  OSAKA. 

This  route  includes  many  names 
that  are  classic  to  Japanese  ears, 
and  may  be  specially  recommended 
to  lovers  of  ancient  religious  art 
as  well  -as  to  seekers  after  the 
picturesque. 

The  start  may  be  made  either 


from  Osaka  or  from  Nara ;  but  the 
former  is  to  be  preferred,  as  the 
centre  of  interest  is  then  speedily 
reached  by  railway,  whereas  the 
jinrikisha  ride  of  5  n  from  Nara  to 
Sakurai,  vid  Tamba-ichi  and  Miwa, 
is  somewhat  dull.  The  railway 
taken  at  Osaka  (Minato-cho  sta- 
tion) is  a  branch  of  the  Osaka- 
Nara  Railway.  Travellers  change 
carriages  at  Oji  for  Takada,  the 
temporary  terminus  of  the  branch, 
which  is,  however,  to  be  carried 
on  a  few  miles  further  to  Imai 
closfe  to  Jimmu's  Mausol^m,  and 
to  Sakurai.  Even  in  the  present 
unfinished  state  of  things  (1891), 
which  nessitates  taking  jinrikishas 
from  Takada  viA  the  Mausoleum 
to  Sakurai,  the  whole  trip  does  not 
occupy  half  a  day.  When  the 
Imai  station  shall  have  been 
opened,  the  best  plan  will  be  to 
take  train  so  far,  and  thence  go  by 
jinrikisha  to  Sakurai  via  the  Mau- 
soleum. The  roads  in  all  this  dis- 
trict are  excellent.  The  itinerary 
of  the  rest  of  the  route  from  Sa- 
kurai onwards  is  as  follows  : 

Itinerary. 

SAKCTEAI  to  :—  Ri.  Cho.  M. 

Hase 1  23  4 

Back  to  Sakurai...  1  23  4 

Tonomine 1  23  4 

Kami-ichi 3  8  7| 

Yoshino  (about)...  25  If 

Muda 1  —  2^ 

GOJO    4  —  9f 

Hashimoto  2  3  5 

Kamuro    1  —  2^ 

Kane        (about)...  1  14  3^ 

Kaniya          „      ...  1  J  4  3i 

KOYA-SAN,,      ...  1  14  3^ 
Back    to    Kamuro 

(about) 4  6  lOi 

Hashimoto  1  —  2^ 

Top  of  Kiimi-toge.  2  2  5 

Mikkaichi 2  21  "  6i 

Fukumachi 3  7  7f 

SAKAI 3  21  8f 

Total 37    24    92 


882 


RoiUe  46. — Through  Yamato  to  Koya-san. 


By  train  from  Sakai  to  Osaka  in 
20  min. 

The  raising  of  a  grand  M^nsoleum  to 
Jiinmu  'I'enno,  the  Japanese  Romulus,  nt 
KashiVrabara  where  his  capital  is  believed 
to  have  stood,  may  be  regarded  as  the 
culmiiiatiug  point  uf  the  triumphant  la- 
bours of  the  archseolo^ioal  and  Shinto 
party;^  which,  beg^in-iing  early  in  the  ISth 
century  by  the  annotation  of  ancient  texts 
and  the  re-adoption  of  obsolete  religious 
usHges,  has  ended  in  our  own  day  by  restor- 
ing the  Mikado  to  his  long  lo.-'t  authority, 
while  such  comparatively  modern  innova- 
tions as  tl>e  Shdruuttte  huve  been  trampled 
underfoot,  and  the  foreign  religion,  Budd- 
liism,  if  not  killed,  at  least  deprived  of 
official  fiivbur  and  emolument.  On  Jiinmu 
Tenno,  as  the  first  Mikndo,  and  on  the 
other  early  monarchs  of  his  line,  a  portion 
of  the  political  and  religious  enthusiasm 
felt  for  their  latest  descendants  reflects  it- 
self Yamato  iitid  the  adjacent  provinces 
are  cove  ed  with  the  tumuli— m/»aaa^i,  as 
they  are  ttrmed— of  these  long-neglected 
lulers,  which,  till  within  the  last  quarter 
of  a  century,  were  treated  with  scant 
reverence  bv  the  peasantry  who  used  there 
to  cut  fodder  for  th.nr  cattle.  All  the 
tumuli  have  now  been  identified— not  per- 
haps in  every  ease  by  methods  suttiuiently 
strict  to  satisfy  the  European  critic,  but  at 
least  by  painstaking  reference  to  the  oldest 
available  sources  oif  the  njition-il  history ; 
iind  that  some  greit  i)ei-«onage8  were  inter- 
red undersumeof  the  tumuli  in  question,  is 
plain  from  the  gold  ornaments,  the  pottery, 
and  other  relics  dugout  of  them  during  the 
earlier  stages  of  the  search.  However 
legitimately  destructive  European  criticism 
may  be  of  die  authenticity  of  Jimmu  Ten- 
lio's  history  and  of  the  claims  of  any 
particular  tumulus  to  the  name  it  is  now 
made  to  bear,  one  cann  >t  1  ut  experience  a 
certain  fee. in?  of  interest  und  respect  in 
piesence  of  such  very  antrient  remains. 
This  fertile  plain  of  Yaniaio  which  holds 
them  is  the  earliest  historic  <  entre  of  the 
Japane  e  J  ace,  and  has  certainly  for  thirteen 
centuries,  and  prob:ibly  for  a  miu  h  longer 
X)eriiid,  been  the  home  of  a  unique  civili- 
sation. The  various  Imperial  tumuli  may 
now  be  recognised  by  the  hairier — general- 
ly a  gianite  fence — surionnding  a  hillock 
overgrown  with  treps,  and  the  stone  torii 
standing  at  the  entrance  to  a  neat  gravel 
walk.  In  some  cases  the  mound  is  liourd- 
shaped,  of  con'<ider.iblesize,  and  surrounded 
by  a  moat.  Jimmn  Tenno's  tumulus  is  the 
most  sacred  of  these,  though  low  and 
inconspicuous. 

Just  before  reachino^  the  Tiimu- 
Ins  of  Jiuimii  Tennu,  one  passes 
1.  that  of  the' Emperor  Suizei,  his 
immediate  successor.  The  wooded 
hill  seen  ahead  is  Unebi-yama, 
constantly  mentioned  by  the  early 


Japanese  poets.  Jimmu  Tenno's 
mausoleum  lies  at  its  N.E.  foot, 
the  hamlet  of  Kashiwabara  and. 
the  Mausoleum  8  cho  to  the  S.W. 
To  the  r.  rise  Nijo-san  or  Futago- 
yama,  so-called  from  its  double 
peak,  and  the  long  ridge  of  KAtsu- 
ragi-yama  and  Kongo-zan.  To  the 
extreme  1.  is  Tonomine,  the  highest 
part  of  a  range  on  another  portion 
of  which,  further  ahead,  may  be 
seen  glistening  the  white  walls  of 
the  castle  of  Takatori.  The  tumu- 
lus was  first  enclosed  in  1863, 
the  outer  stone  fence  dates  from 
about  1877,  the  granite  screen 
(tamagaki)  and  large  wooden  torii 
inside  the  grounds  and  nearest  to 
the  actual  tumulus,  from  1890. 
The  torii  is  of  peculiar  construc- 
tion, the  lower  portion  being  a 
sort  of  lattice  work.  None  are 
now  allowed  to  penetrate  further 
than  this  torii,  the  ground  being 
considered  sacred.  The  chief 
building  opposite  the  entrance  is 
intended  to  accommodate  the  Im- 
perial messenger  (chokushi-kvxm), 
who  comes  yearly  to  worship  on 
the  Mikado's  behalf.  The  travel- 
ler will  re-enter  his  jinrikisha  to 
reach  the  Maiisolenm  {Kashiwor- 
hara  Jinja),  begun  in  April,  1890, 
and  not  likely  to  be  completed  for 
some  years,  as  the  buildings  are 
on  an  elaborate  scale.  The  idea  is 
to  restore  Jiinmu  Tenno's  palace 
on  its  original  site;  and  as 
Imperialism  and  Shinto  go  hand 
in  hand,  the  result  is  a  set  of 
structures  half -palace  half -temple. 
Two  wings  of  the  Imperial  Palace 
at  Kyoto — the  Naishi-dokoro  and 
8hinka-den — have  been  removed  to 
this  spot. 

The  Shinka-den  is  a  sort  of  shed,  72  ft. 
by  40  ft.,  in  which  the  Mikado  celelirates 
the  Harvest  Festival  {ShinjO-mi).  In  the 
Naishi-dokoro,  ali»o  called  KaBhiko-dokoro, 
is  preserved  a  copy  of  the  sacred  mirror 
given  to  his  ancestor  by  the  Sun-Goddess, 
the  original  of  w^hich  is  at  her  temple  in 
Ise.  When  the  Palace  was  destroyed  by 
fire  in  A.D.  900,  the  mirror  flew  out  of  the 
building  in  which  it  was  then  deposited, 
and  alighted  on  a  cherry-tree,  where  it 


Jimmu's  Mausoleum.     Miwa,     Hose, 


888 


-was  found  by  one  of  the  Naithif  a  class 
of  females  who  attended  on  the  Mikado. 
Henceforth  these  attendants  always  had 
charge  of  it,  whence  the  name  Naithi- 
dok€Mro,  The  alternative  name  of  Kathiko- 
doioro  signifies  the  'fearful  (or  awe-in- 
spiring) plckce.' 

The  Shinka-den  stands  in  front, 
the  Naishi-dokoro  behind ;  and  an 
oratory  (norito-ya)  intended  to  con- 
nect the  two  is  in  course  of 
erection.  In  the  court  will  be 
planted  an  ukon  no  tachibana  and 
sakon  no  aakuray  as  in  the  Kyoto 
Palace  (see  p.  290).  On  either  side 
of  this  block  of  buildings  there  is 
to  be  a  gallery.  To  the  1.,  outside 
the  enclosure,  is  the  Shinsenjo 
where  the  offerings  are  prepared, 
and  beside  it  is  the  temple  office.  In 
the  background,  godowns  are  to  be 
built  for  the  various  sacred 
treasures,  and  at  the  entrance  a 
house  for  the  Imperial  envoy.  The 
materials  are  plain  white  wood  and 
granite. 

Returning  past  the  tumulus  the 
way  we  came,  and  then  diverging 
to  the  r.,  we  perceive  in  front  a  liill 
much  more  like  a  large  artificial 
tumulus  than  any  other  in  the 
vicinity,  but  which  is  not  account- 
ed such.  It  is  called  Tenjin-yama, 
because  dedicate  to  the  god  Ten- 
jin.  Very  soon  we  reach  the  town 
of 

Saknrai  (Inn  Taba-ichi),  which 
will  soon  be  the  terminus  of  the 
railway.  There  is  nothing  parti- 
cular to  see  in  the  town  itself. 
Notice  only  the  peculiar  effect 
produced  here  and  at  other  neigh- 
bouring towns  by  the  small  tiled 
chimneys  which  look  like  miniature 
temple  roofs  stuck  on  above  the 
actual  roofs  of  the  houses.  A  spare 
i  hr.  at  Sakurai  can  be  utilised  in 
visiting  the  ancient  Temple  of 
Miwa,  situated  in  a  commanding 
position  amid  an  antique  grove. 
Though  now  a  good  deal  neglected, 
the  buildings  still  preserve  traces 
of  former  stateliness.  The  temple 
is  dedicated  to  the  Shinto  god 
Onamuji,    and    the    priests    who 


minist-er  at  the  altar  are  said  to  be 
descended  from  a  son  of  that  deity, 
named  Otataneko. 

The  following  legend  concerning  this 
pei-sonage— a  legend  which  also  attempts 
to  expliin  the  etymology  of  the  name 
Miwa — is  translated  literally  from  the 
Kojiki: 

*  The  reason  why  this  person  called  Ota- 
taneko was  known  to  be  the  child  of  a  god* 
was  that  the  beauty  of  a  maiden  named 
Iku-tama-yori-]>inie  seemed  peerless  in  the 
world  to  a  divine  youth  who  came  suddenly  ^ 
to  her  in  the  middle  of  the  night.  Bo,  as 
they  loved  each  other  and  lived  in  matri- 
mony together,  the  maiden  ere  long  became 
pregnant.  Then  the  father  and  mother, 
astonished  at  their  daughter  being  preg- 
nant, asked  her,  sxying :  *  Thou  are  preg- 
nant by  thyself.  How  art  thou  witli  child 
without  having  known  a  man?*  She  re- 
plied, saying :  *  I  have  conceived  through  a 
beautiful  young  man,  whose  name  I  know 
not,  coming  liere  eveiy  evening  and  staying 
with  me.*  Therefore  the  father  and  mother, 
wishing  to  know  who  the  man  was,  cran- 
n landed  their  daughter,  saying:  'Sprinkle 
red  earth  in  front  of  the  couch,  and  pass  a 
8kein  of  hemp  through  a  needle,  and  pierce 
therewith  the  skirt  of  his  garment.*  8o 
she  did  as  they  had  bidden,  and  on  locdcing^ 
in  the  morning,  the  hemp  that  had  been 
put  in  the  needle  went  out  through  the 
hole  of  the  door-hook,  and  all  the  hemp 
that  lem  lined  -was  only  three  twists. 
fJap.  mi  wa).  Then  forthwith,  knowing 
how  he  had  gone  out  by  the  hook-hole« 
they  went  on  tlieir  quest  following  the 
thiead,  which,  re:icbing  Mount  Miwa, 
stopped  at  tlie  shrine  of  the  god.  So  they 
knew  that  Otataneko  was  the  child  of  the 
god  who  dwelt  there.  So  the  place  was 
called  ty  the  name  of  Miwa,  because  of  the 
three  twists  of  hemp  that  had  remained.' 

The  excellent  and  picturesque 
road  from  Sakurai  to 

Hase  {Inns,  Yoshino-ya,  Idani- 
ya),  leads  up  the  r .  bank  of  the  Hase- 
gawa.  At  the  entrance  of  the  little 
town,  which  owes  its  existence  to 
the  sanctity  of  the  great  Temple  of 
Hase-dera  or  Chokokuji,  the  valley 
suddenly  narrows,  and  wooded  hills 
close  the  road  in  on  every  side. 

Founded  early  in  the  8th  century 
and  last  rebuilt  about  800  years 
ago,  this  temple  is  one  of  the  most 
striking  in  Japan.  It  is  situated 
high  up  on  the  flank  of  a  hill  above 
the  town,  and  stands  half  upon 
the  rock  and  half  upon  a  lofty  plat- 
form built  out  from  the  rock,  like 
Kiyomizn-dera  at  Kyoto.    A  lon^ 


884 


Boute  46, — Through  Yamato  to  Koya-san, 


and  steep  flight  of  steps  in  three 
zigzags,  two  of  which  are  roofed  in, 
leads  from  the  new  entrance  gate  at 
the  end  of  the  main  street.  On  either 
side  of  the  flight  of  steps  are  beds  of 
peonies,  beautiful  to  behold  about 
the  end  of  April,  when  they  are 
in  full  bloom.  The  front  part  of 
the  main  building  is  an  ex-voto 
haU  60  ft.  long,  in  front  of  which 
^  is  a  platform  built  out  on  piles  and 
commanding  a  view  of  the  whole 
valley.  A  stone-paved  corridor 
lined  with  lanterns  runs  between 
the  ex-voto  hall  and  the  holy  of 
holies,  where  is  enshrined  the  enor- 
mous gilt  image  of  Kwannon,  the 
goddess  of  the  place,  whose  form 
may  be  obscurely  perceived  by 
the  dim  light  of  lanterns.  '  On 
payment  of  a  fee  to  the  attendant 
priest,  permission  can  be  obtained 
to  enter  this  sanctum  and  stand 
at  her  very  feet.  The  entrance  is 
by  the  back,  where,  on  either  side 
of  the  door,  will  be  remarked  two 
little  wheels  used  as  charms  where- 
by to  prognosticate  future  events. 
The  curious  pilgrim  ties  a  wisp  of 
paper  to  the  wheel,  which  he  then 
turns  rapidly.  If  the  paper  wisp 
is  at  the  bottom  when  the  wheel 
stops,  any  desire  he  may  have 
formed  will  come  true.  Just  inside 
the  door  is  a  life-size  image  of 
Kwannon  standing  in  front  of  a 
large  fresco  of  Shaka  and  the  Five- 
and-Twenty  Bosatsu  of  Paradise. 
To  its  1.  is  an  immense  maindara,  18 
ft.  broad  by  30  ft.  high,  represent- 
ing that  half  of  the  universe  called 
by  the  Buddhists  Taizo-kai.  Both 
these  paiigitings  are  attributed  to 
Kobo  Daishi,  as  is  a  large  kakemono 
of  the  god  Dainichi  Nyorai  which 
hangs  opposite  to  the  niandara. 
Thus  we  pass  round  to  the  great 
image  in  front,  which  towers  to  a 
height  of  26^  ft.  in  the  dim  reli- 
gious light.  On  the  1.  side  of  the 
sanctum,  before  emerging,  is  seen 
another  mandara  representing  the 
half  of  the  universe  Kongo-kai.  The 
two  mandara  together  contain  the 


figures  of  3,000  Buddhas.  The 
Oku-no-in  of  this  temple,  instesKi 
of  being  higher  up  the  same  hill  ac- 
cording to  the  usual  custom,  is  on 
a  separate  hill  4  cho  distant,  and 
is  not  worth  a  visit.  Hase-dera  is 
No.  8  of  the  Thirty-Three  Places 
'  (see  p.  253).  A  fire,  which  took 
I  place  in  1883,  destroyed  the  pago- 
da and  also  the  lowest  section  of  the- 
covered  gallery ;  but  subscriptions 
are  being  raised  to  restore  both. 
On  the  hill  opposite  is  a  temple  to 
the  Shinto  god  Tenjin.  The  Yo- 
shino-ya  inn  stands  at  the  bottom, 
of  the  flight  of  stone  steps  thai; 
lead  up  to  this  shrine. 

[From  Hase  a  road  leads  to  the 
shrines  of  Ise ;  see  p.  245.  It 
is  much  frequented  by  pil- 
grims, who  combine  the  Yama- 
to-meguri,  as  it  is  called,  or 
Tour  of  the  Holy  Places  of 
Yamato,  with  a  pilgrimage  to 
the  temple  of  the  Sun-Goddess.] 

The  4  m.  back  from  Hase  to 
Sakurai  are  speedily  traversed  in 
jinrikishas,  the  road  being  a  slight 
descent  the  whole  way.  From 
Sakurai  likewise  on  to  Tonomine 
there  is  a  jinrikisha  road ;  but  as 
it  soon  becomes  steep  and  is  rough 
in  parts,  good  walkers  are  advised 
to  go  on  foot.  The  whole  way  is 
picturesque.  At  Shimomura,  about 
^  hr.  out  of  Sakurai,  a  fine  granite 
torii  marks  the  outermost  limit  of 
the  sacred  mountain,  the  actual 
Tonomine  being  the  trifurcated 
summit  seen  ahead  to  the  r.  Many 
hamlets  are  passed  through.  At 
that  of  Kurahashi,  but  a  little  off 
the  road,  is  the  tumulus  of  Sujiu 
Tenno,  one  of  the  Emperors  of  the 
legendary  era. 

During  some  fifteen  years  tlie  Japanese 
areheeolofrists  hesitated  between  the  con- 
flicting claims  of  several  neighbouriTig' 
spots.  On  the  present  site  stood  the  little 
(Shinto  temple  of  the  hamlet — a  fact  -which 
finally  fixed  their  choice.  The  place  was 
laid  out  after  the  orthodox  pattern  in  1891, 
the  temple  havinjr  been  removed  to  the 
hill  opposite.  The  present  writers,  who 
passed  there  while  the  work  was  in  pro- 


Tonomine. 


835 


gr'^ss,  cannot  say  that  anything  much  re- 
sembling an  artificial  mound,  or  iudeed  a 
mound  of  any  sort,  was  discernible. 

At  the  upper  end  of  a  village 
called  Yainai-cho,  a  covered  bridore 
leads  across  into  the  grounds  of 
iilie  justly  famous  temple  of 

Toiiomine  (locally  pronounced 
Tonomune),  the  way  being  along 
an  avenue  of  monumental  crypt- 
omerias.  The  magnificence  of  the 
■fcimber,  the  purling  of  the  brook 
InbIow,  the  rich  green  every- 
wliere,  and  the  deep  shade  combine 
to  make  a  scene  at  once  impressive 
and  delightful.  Jinrikishas  may 
go  no  further  than  the  Ichi  no  Mon, 
or  First  Ghate. 

This  name  does  not  indicate  that  there 
are  luHiiy  successive  gates  to  be  passed 
ttiroiigfa.  There  is  but  one  on  the  Yainai- 
cho  side.  The  JVi  no  Jfon^  or  Second 
Oate,  is  on  the  other  side  of  the  moun- 
tain, by  which  the  traveller  departs. 

The  stone  walls  beyond  it,  ser- 
ving to  keep  some  terraces  in  place, 
are  all  that  remain  of  a  large  num- 
ber of  priests'  dwellings  and  minor 
temple  buildings  pulled  down 
during  the  present  reign. 

The  temple  of  Tonomine,  one  of  the 
most  perfect  speciuiens  of  Kyobu-Shinto 
architecture,  was  raised  in  honour  of  a 
celebrated  nobleman  and  statesman  of  the 
7th  century,  named  Kamatari,  who  had 
two  sons,  Tankiii  and  Joe.  The  latter  it 
■was  who  built  the  temple,  bi  inginj?  back 
with  him  from  China,  whither  he  had  been 
sent  to  study,  all  the  materials  for  the 
thirteen-storieil  pagoda,  with  the  exception 
of  the  top  storey  which  proved  to  be  njore 
than  his  junk  could  liold.  In  those  days, 
however,  such  mishaps  were  easily  reme- 
died, and  the  thirteenth  storey  flew  after 
him  acroMS  the  sea  in  a  cloud,  and  so  com- 
pleted the  edifice.  According  to  tradition, 
Kamatari  Hnd  liis  friends  retired  to  this 
mountain  to  plan  the  assassination  of  Soga- 
no-Iruka,  h  nobleman  who  had  ingratiated 
himself  with  the  Empress  KOgyoku,  and 
formed  the  bold  design  of  plaidng  him^self  on 
the  throne.  Hence  the  name  of  Dnmu  no 
Mine,  or  Conference  Peak,  the  word  Damn 
being  aftei-wards  corrupted  to  2o. 

On  arriving  at  the  great  red 
iiyriiy  we  turn  to  the  r.  and  ascend 
several  steep  flights  of  steps,  to 
the  r.  of  which  is  a  fine  grove  of 
maples  whose  autumn    tints    are 


celebrated.  Again  turning  to  the 
r.  at  the  top  of  the  steps,  we  find 
ourselves  at  the  honsha,  or  main 
shrine,  connected  with  an  oratory 
in  the  somewhat  unusual  form  of  a 
gallery,  which  now  wears  the  as- 
pect of  an  exhibition,  as  drums, 
arrows,  the  god's  sacred  car,  and 
other  temple  *  j)roperties '  are  there 
laid  out  in  rows.  All  the  temple 
buildings  are  red  and  white,  the 
main  shrine  being  furthermore 
decorated  with  gold  and  green 
arabesques  and  geometrical  designs, 
besides  beautiful  carvings  of  birds 
and  elaborate  metal  fastenings. 

Round  it  is  a  paling  {ta'niagalc{)t, 
with  storks  and  tortoises  within 
groups  of  flowers.  Oreen  blinds 
hide  the  doorways,  to  each  of  which 
a  polished  mirror  is  attached.  The 
side  chapels  are  dedicated  to 
Kamatari's  sons,  Tankai  and  Joe. 
Dragons  in  sepia  on  a  gold  ground 
adorn  the  lower  cross-beams  of  the 
portico,  and  a  beautifully  executed 
pair  of  bronze  lanterns  bearing 
date  1755  stand  in  front  of  the 
chapel.  The  transverse  panel  in 
the  verandah  on  the  W.  side  of  the 
chapel  has  a  white  phoenix  painted 
on  it,  and  on  the  corresponding 
panel  on  the  E.  side  is  a  peacock. 
The  roof  is  of  thick  shingling.  As 
at  Kasuga  in  Nara,  a  troop  of 
young  girls  and  musicians  are  in 
readiness  to  perform  the  kagura 
dance  for  a  small  fee.  The  other 
principal  object  of  jnterest  is 
the  small  thirteen-storied,  or 
more  correctly  speaking  thirteen- 
roofed,  pagoda.  There  are  nume- 
rous other  buildings  in  the  grounds, 
many  of  which  are  now  left 
empty,  as  the  Shinto  cult  has  no 
use  for  them.  One,  seen  on  the 
way  down  and  showing  traces  of 
elaborate  decoration,  is  the  burial- 
place  of  Kamatari's  mother.  The 
two  great  festival  days  at  Tono- 
mine are  the  16th  April  and  I7th 
November. 

Close  to  the  exit  from  the  temple 
enclosure  is  an  excellent  inn  called 


:886 


Route  46. — Throuffh  Yamato  to  Kdya-san, 


Hananaka-ya^  kept  by  a  former 
priest.  A  short  but  steep  ascent 
leads  up  hence  to  the  Nino  Mon, 
or  Second  Gate,  where  the  temple 
grounds  are  left.  Hence  it  is  a 
good  i  hr.  walk  to 

Hhiken-jnya>  a  hamlet  which 
belies  the  import  of  its  name  (lit. 
*  four  tea-houses ')  by  having  no 
tea-houses  at  all.  It  affords,  how- 
ever, a  fine  viefe  of  the  plain 
stretching  towards  Nara.  Begin- 
ning at  the  r.,  the  mountains  seen 
are :  Tempo-zan,  Futago-yama, 
Katsuragi-yama,  Kongo-san;  next, 
but  in  the  much  further  distance, 
Koya-san,  and  to  its  1.,  that  is  to 
the  S.  of  the  spectator,  the  sea  of 
mountains  covering  southern  Ya- 
mato. Close  to  the  spectator  is  a 
tumulus  called  Uba-ga-mori,  mark- 
ed by  a  clump  of  trees  and  the 
usual  railing.  Half  the  horizon — 
the  N.  and  E.  side — is  unfoi-tunate- 
ly  shut  out  from  view  by  rising 
ground  close  by.  From  Shiken-jaya 
to  the  top  of  the  Ryumi-toge  is 
called  a  distance  of  1  ri,  but  can 
scarcely  be  so  much.  The  way  lies 
mostly  through  a  delightful  wood 
of  cryptomerias  and  chamsecy- 
paris  trees  ;  nor  need  the  lover  of 
timber  fear  that  the  bare  streaks 
on  some  of  the  hill-sides  indicate 
impending  disafforestation.  The 
Japanese  plan  is  not  to  thin  out 
timber  gradually,  as  we  do,  but  to 
shave  whole  hill-sides  bare  and  then 
let  them  alone  for  many  years, 
while  others  are  similarly  treated 
in  rotation.  This  method  saves 
trouble,  as  all  the  timber  is  simply 
rolled  down  without  encoimtering 
Any  obstacle  to  the  bottom  of  the 
valley — if  possible,  to  a  stream 
where  it  is  floated  down,  either  in 
separate  trunks,  or  where  the 
breadth  of  the  stream  admits  of  it, 
in  the  form  of  rafts. 

The  view  from  the  Eyuzai-toge, 
though  pretty,  is  less  extensive 
than  that  from  Shiken-jaya.  The 
way  onward  is  downhill,  with  the 
exception  of  the  short  Yumihari- 


I  toge.     Several  hamlets  are  passed 

through  before  entering 

Kiiuii-ichi   (Inn,   Tatami-ya),   & 

fair-sized  town  on  the  r.  bank  a£ 

the  Yoshino-gawa.     The  view  up 

the  river  is  pretty,  and  those  to 

whom  the   classical  literature    ot 

Japan  is  familiar  will  be  intere  steel 

to  gaze  on  Imoyama,  the  conspicu^ 

ous  and  thickly-wooded  hill  about 

I  m.  distant. 

The  early  erotic  poets  of  Japan  make 
constant  mention  of  Imose-yaniat  wliivh 
nairie  is  interpreted  to  mcHri  Imo-yama 
and  Se-pama^  or  *  Mount  Lady-love '  aud 
'  Mount  Lover.'  The  former  of  the  two  is 
here  at  Kami-ichi ;  but  no  *  Mount  Lover* 
can  be  found  in  actual  gec^aphy  to  oor- 
respond  with  the  orthodox  intei  pretaticMi. 
Various  explanations  have  been  proposed. 
Some  say  that  he  has  been  separated  from 
his  mistress  and  washed  away  down  the 
river,  while  otliers  go  so  far  as  t4)  hint  that» 
like  the  much-quoted  Mrs.  Huxris,  he  never 
existed  at  all. 

We  now  cross  the  river  to  the 
town  on  the  other  side,  called 
ligai,  the  crossing  being  effected 
by  bridge  in  winter,  by  ferry  in 
summer. 

A  similar  curious  arrangement  obtains 
at  other  places  along  the  course  of  this 
river.  The  reason  is  that  the  summer 
floods  often  pour  down  with  such  cesistless 
force  as  to  sweep  all  before  them.  Of 
course  the  bridges  erected  for  use  during 
the  dry  season  are  not  costly,  and  the  pieces 
are  stowed  away  to  do  service  again  the 
following  year. 

The  temple  buildings  at  ligai, 
standing  on  a  slight  elevation  and 
having  a  parapet  in  front,  belong 
to  the  Monto  sect  of  Buddhists. 
Proceeding  a  short  way  down  the 
stream  and  then  turning  S.,  we 
enter  the  lower  hills.  Cherry-trees 
line  the  path  and  cover  the  hill- 
side for  a  considerable  distance 
up  to  the  entrance  of  the  small 
town  of 

Vosliino  ( Inns,  *  Tatsumi-ya, 
Fukuchi-ya),  which  is  built  along 
the  top  of  a  narrow  spur,  and  con- 
sists almost  entirely  of  inns  and  of 
shops  for  the  sale  of  articles  at- 
tractive to  i>ilgrims. 

[Yoshino  may  also  be  reached  in 
about  6  ri  direct  from  Jimmu's 


Yoshino. 


837 


MaQsoleum,  vifi,  the  castle  of 
Takatori.  Almost  the  whole 
distance  can  be  done  by  jin- 
rikisha.] 

"Yosliino's  nsiially  sleepy  aspect 
is  exchanged  for  all  the  bustle  of  a 
camp  during  the  week  or  ten  days 
in  mid- April  when  the  cherry-trees 
are  in  flower. 

These  trees,  "which  are  sn|->posed  to  num- 
ber exactly  a  tbouBHnd,  have  for  centuries 
been  famous  thruugrhout  Japxn,  and  de- 
«»rve  to  be  famous  tbrou^^hout  the  world. 
Tliere  is  no  pig}it  comparable  to  them  for 
beauty  when  covered  with  delicate  pale 
pink  blossom,  except  perhaps  the  plum- 
trees  of  TBuki}?»8e  in  tlie  north  of  the  sanie 
province.  But  the  cherry-blossoms  of  Yo- 
nhino  enjoy  a  far  wider  reputation.  Fur- 
tlier  up  the  mountain-side,  beyond  the 
to-wn  of  YoKhino,  is  a  second  plantation  of 
these  beautiful  trees. 

Half-way  up  the  town  are  the 
remains  of  a  huge  bronze  tovii 
iHiilt  of  broad  rings  3  ft.  in  dia- 
meter. It  was  blown  down  by  a 
typhoon  in  1888,  but  is  to  be  set  up 
again.  It  indicates  the  approach 
to  Zo-O'do,  one  of  the  largest  tem- 
ples in  Japan. 

Founded  by  Gyogi  Bosatsu  early  in  the 
8th  century_  as  an  offshoot  of  the  temple 
raised  on  Omine  by  his  master  £n-uo- 
8h5kaku,  this  temple  has  undei-gone  many 
vicissitudes.  The  present  buildings  date, 
for  most  part,  from  1591.  Early  in  the 
present  reign,  they  were  tnken  from  their 
Buddhist  occupants  and  handed  over  by 
the  Government  to  the  Shintoists ;  but  in 
1886  they  were  handed  back  from  the 
6hintoist8  to  the  Buddhists,  when  the 
colossal  statue  of  Zo-o  Gongen  and  the 
other  temple  pioperties  were  restored  to 
their  original  places,  though  with  a  some- 
what din;inL<jhed  lustre. 

A  large  red  two-storied  gate  and 
two  flights  of  steps  lead  up  into 
the  court  fronting  the  great  temple 
hall.  The  pillars  supporting  this 
lofty  building  are  huge  trunks, 
lopped  of  their  branches  and 
roughly  trimmed.  Their  gradually 
tapering  form  recalls  the  way  in 
which  the  stone  columns  of  Doric 
temples  derived  their  shape  from  the 
primitive  trunks  which  they  re- 
placed .  One  of  the  pillars  is  a  gigan- 
tic azalea,  at  least  30  in.  in  diameter, 
brought  from  Mt.   Omine,    where 


those  shrubs  frequently  attain  to 
an  enormous  size,  though  seldom 
reaching  the  bulk  of  this  specimen. 
Ex-voto  pictures  of  proportionate 
dimensions  and  great  age  adorn 
the  walls  of  the  portico.  The  huge 
image  of  Zo-o  Gongen  behind  the 
altar,  carved  by  Gyogi  Bosatsu,  is 
26  ft.  high  and  of  terrific  aspect,, 
and  is  flanked  by  statues  scarcely 
less  colossal  (22  ft.)  of  Kwan- 
non  and  Miroku.  All  three  lift 
their  r.  foot  to  trample  on  the 
clouds,  and  the  1.  to  trample  on 
the  four  great  oceans.  Their 
stern  expression  shows  that  their 
minds  are  bent  on  repressing 
the  demons  of  which  the  universe 
is  full. 

A  little  further  on  is  Yoshijiina 
Jinjii,  a  small  temple  in  which 
YoshitsiTne  and  Benkei  are  said  to 
have  si)ent  three  years,  and  which 
later,  in  the  14th  century,  served 
as  the  abode  of  the  fugitive 
monarch  Go-Daigo.  Every  tree,, 
every  stone  in  the  enclosure  has  a 
name  recalling  some  act  of  one  or 
other  of  these  three  personages, — 
the  tree  to  which  Yoshitsune  made^ 
fast  his  horse,  the  rock  into  which 
Benkei  drove  two  iron  nails  to 
prove  his  strength  after  seven  days 
of  abstinence,  etc.  The  room  which 
Go-Daigo  used  to  occupy  is  stilf 
shown,  as  are  a  variety  of  works 
of  art.  On  the  hill  opposite  is  the 
temple  of  Nyoinnji  where  Go- 
Daigo  lies  buried. 

There  are  several  minor  temples, 
but  Zo-o-do  will  probably  be  found 
sufficient  by  most  travellers.  Yo- 
shino is  noted  tor  its  Icuzu,  a  kind 
of  starch,  which  is  sold  both  jDure  and 
also  as  a  sweetmeat  in  the  shape 
of  cherry-blossoms,  a  real  blossom 
of  last  season's  blooming  being 
enclosed  in  each  daintily  done  up 
box.  The  starch,  when  properly 
made,  is  very  palatable,  and  almost 
indistinguishable  from  American 
corn  starch. 

[Yoshino  is  the  name,  not  only  of 


888 


Route  46, — Through  Yainato  to  Koya-san, 


the  town,  but  of  the  surround- 
ing extensive  tract  of  wild 
mountainous  country,  to  ex- 
plore which  the  town  affords 
a  convenient  starting-point ; 
and  neither  the  mountaineer 
nor  the  botanist  will  regret 
devoting  some  days  to  this 
object.  The  peaks  vary  from 
5,000  ft.  to  6,000  ft.  in  height. 
The  names  of  the  principal 
ones  are  Misen,  Shaka-ga-take, 
Omine  (locally  pronounced 
Omune),  Inamura,  and  Shi- 
chimen-zan.  The  narrow  val- 
leys intervening  between  their 
spurs  support  a  scanty  but 
industrious  population,  who, 
by  terracing  even  the  steepest 
hill-sides,  are  able  to  raise 
a  sufficient  crop  of  barley 
for  their  existence.  Yet  a 
vast  tract  is  uninhabited,  and 
much  of  this  is  even  un- 
traversed.  Boars  and  the  goat- 
faced  antelope  are  plentiful, 
and  a  few  deer  and  bears  and 
an  occasional  wolf  are  also  to 
be  seen.  The  boars  are  so 
numerous,  that  throughout  the 
region  all  cultivated  plots  have 
to  be  protected  from  their 
inroads  by  strong  stockades 
called  shishugaki,  and  it  is  not 
unusual  to  see  a  whole  valley 
thus  fenced  in.  The  summits 
are  almost  without  exception 
clothed  at  high  elevations  with 
foi'ests  consisting  chiefly  of 
conifers,  beeches,  and  oaks 
both  evergreen  and  deciduous, 
magnolias,  etc.,  but  the  lower 
slopes  are  not  vmfrequently 
covered  with  plantations  of 
cryptomerias,  and  chamaBcy- 
paris.  There  aj'e  also  a  few 
small  copi)er-mines,  but  timber- 
cutting  and  timber-dressing 
form  tlie  chief  employment  of 
the  peasant  population. 

The  ascent  of  Online,  though 
not  really  dangerous,  is  so 
steep  in  pai-ts  that  some  bits 
have  to  be  accomplished   by 


means  of  ladders.  The  dis- 
tance from  Yoshino  to  the  top 
is  6  n,  the  expedition  there  and. 
back  occupying  the  whole  of  & 
long  day.  The  summit  is  sa^ 
cred  to  the  Buddliist  saint  who 
first  trod  it,  En-no-Shokaku» 
and  there,  in  front  of  a  temple 
erected  in  his  honour,  may  be 
seen  several  fine  bronze  images, 
which  represent  him  equipped 
for  a  pilgrimage,  with  one> 
toothed  clogs  on  his  feet,  and 
accompanied  by  the  faithful 
demons  Zenki  and  Goki.  The 
view  is  very  fine,  even  the 
cone  of  Fuji  being  visible  on  a 
clear  day,  though  no  less  than 
180  m.  distant.  _ 

Fyom  the  summit  of  Omine, 
the  traveller  who  is  equipped 
for  mountain  work  and  pro- 
vided with  a  sufficient  supply 
of  provisions  and  porters,  may 
make  the  ascent  of  Misen  and 
Shaka-ga-take,  descending  to 
a  place  called  Dorogawa  at  the 
foot  of  Omine,  which,  being 
resorted  to  by  pilgrims  bound 
for  Koya-san,  possesses  several 
inns.  The  distance  from  O- 
mine  to  Misen  is  probably  not 
more  than  18  to  20  m.,  but  the 
path  is  difficult,  constantly 
ascending  and  descending,  and 
progress  must  inevitably  be 
slow,  owing  to  the  necessity 
of  carrying  cooking  utensils, 
sleeping  quilts,  and  rice  for  the 
porters.  The  whole  of  one  day 
will  be  required  to  reach  Mi- 
sen, one  more  to  Shaka-ga- 
take,  and  a  third  to  Dorogawa, 
A  water-vessel  capable  of  con- 
taining a  day*s  supply  and  a 
sufficiency  of  warm  clothing 
should  be  taken,  as  even  in. 
July  the  thermometer  may 
sink  to  oO^  Fahrenheit  at  night. 
From  Dorogawa  to  Koya-san 
is  one  very  long  day's  walk. 
Most  of  these  mountains  afford 
but  little  view,  on  account  of 
the  thick  vegetation  coverjng 


Road  from  Yoshino  to  Kdija-san. 


889 


them ;  but  the  botanist  will  be 
correspondingly  rewarded.] 

On  leaving  Yoshino  for  Koya- 
san,  a  walk  of  1  hr.  affording  a 
succession  of  delightful  views  leads 
•down  to  the  Yoshino-gawa,  which 
is  crossed  at  a  point  shortly  below 
Kami-ichi,  from  a  village  called 
Saso  on  the  1.  bank  to  one  named 

Muda,  or  Matsnda  (Inn,  Hara- 
ya),    on    the    r.      The    extremely 
sliarp  peak  seen  to  the  r.  on  the 
.-way  down  is  the  Takami-toge  on 
the  borders  of  the  province  of  Ise. 
It  is  interesting  to  watch  the  rafts 
descending  the  river.   Though  very 
long,  they  glide  easily  among  the 
shoals,  under  the  management  of  a 
skilful  steersman,  because  built  in 
sections    having    a    partly    inde- 
pendent motion  like  the  carriages  of 
a  railway  train.  Jinrikishas  can  be 
taken  the  whole  way  from  Muda  to 
Kamuro.    The  road,  which  leads 
down  the  r.  bank  of  the  river,  is 
excellent  and  the  scenery  pleasant- 
ly  rural  though    not  calling    for 
special  remstrk.    It  would  show  to 
better  advantage  if  the  traveller 
•came  from  the  opposite  direction, 
as  the  higher    mountains    would 
then  be  in  front  instead  of  behind. 
Between  the  hamlets  of  AdA  and 
Utto,  the  road  diverges  from  the 
river  to  mount    a    gentle  ascent 
called  the  XJno-toge.    Of  the  high 
mountain   mass   visible  from  the 
Ada  tea-house,  the  portion  to  the 
r.  is  Omine,  that  to  the  1.  Otenjo. 
At  thehamlet  of  Sanzai,  the  road 
from   Osaka   joins    in    on    the  r., 
Kongo-san  rising  just  beyond,  in 
the  near  distance. 

Oojo  (Inn,  *Mikasa-kwan)  is  a 
fair-sized  town,  and  a  good  place 
to  halt  for  luncheon  if  the  start 
from  Yoshino  has  not  been  made 
early  enough  to  admit  of  going 
straight  through  to  Kamuro.  After 
leaving  Gojo  the  scenery  improves, 
moun^in  masses  coming  forward 
to  the  1.,  and  the  road  passes  over 
a  gentle  rise  called  the  Matsuchi- 


toge,  where  the  province  of  Yama- 
to  is  quitted  and  that  of  Kishti 
entered.  The  river  is  joined  again 
at 

Hashiuioto  (Inn,  Take-ya),whero 
a  ferry  takes  one  across  to  the  1. 
bank.     The  vill.  of 

Kamuro  (Inns,  Kome-ya,  Tama- 
ya)  stands  at  the  entrance  of  the 
side  valley  leadinpf  up  to  Koya-san, 
its  raison  d'etre  being  the  accom- 
modation of  pilgrims  to  that  shrine. 
Bands  of  .them  may  be  found 
dining  there  at  almost  any  time  of 
day  in  spring,  the  fare  provided 
being  vegetarian  when  they  are  on 
their  way  up  as  contrite  sinners^ 
but  generously  supplemented  with, 
fish  and  eggs — the  Japanese  sub- 
stitutes for  meat — when  they  are 
returning  downwards,  pardoned 
and  at  peace  with  all  the  gods. 
The  traveller  will  probably  be  told 
at  Kamuro  that  the  distance  to 
Koya-san  is  only  3  ri;  but  the  ri  in 
this  mountain  district  is  of  50  cho, 
which  brings  the  distance  up  to  4  ri 
6  cho  of  standard  measurement,  or 
10^  miles  English.  It  must  all  be 
walked,  and  is  a  succession  of  steep 
ascents  and  descents,  the  former 
predominating ;  but  the  eye  is  so 
charmed  at  every  turn  that  fatigue 
is  forgotten.  Several  villages 
are  passed  through,  of  which  the 
best  are  Kane  (Inn,  Naka-ya)  and 
Kaiiiiya  {Inn,  Hana-ya).  During 
the  first  half  of  the  walk,  beautiful 
glimpses  are  obtained  from  time  to 
time  of  the  Yoshino-gawa  fiowing 
far  below.  There  is  little  or  no 
shade,  and  the  palmettos  on  the 
hill-sides  bear  witness  to  the  ex- 
ceptional warmth  of  the  climate  of 
this  district.  For  the  second  half, 
the  way  leads  up  amidst  magnifi- 
cent timber,  chiefly  conifers,  which 
to  behold  and  to  enjoy  their  deli- 
cious shade  and  f  ragi*ance,  would  of 
itself  reward  one  for  the  expedition. 
Most  of  the  finest  specimens  are 
chamsBcyparis.  Strangely  enough, 
comparatively  few  examples  are 
seen  of  the  species  to  which  Koya- 


840 


Eoute  46. — Through  Yamato  to  Koya'San, 


san  has  given  its  name — the  Kdya- 
mdki,  or  Sdadopijtis  verticillata. 
This  superb  forest,  which  now  be- 
longs no  longer  to  the  priests  but 
to  the  central  Government,  rings 
with  the  rhythmic  chant  of  the 
coolies  who  laboriously  bear  down 
the  timber  from  mountain  recesses 
situated  above  the  monastery.  It 
is  thus  conveyed  to  Wakayama, 
the  capital  of  the  province,  and 
thence  shipped  in  junks  to  Tokyo. 
A  bridge  little  worthy  of  its 
high-sounding  name,  GoJcuraku- 
hcLshi,  that  is,  the  Bridge  of  Para- 
dise, marks  the  beginning  of 

Koya-Siin  proper  and  of  the  last 
and  steepest  portion  of  the  climb. 
The  forest  grows  thicker  and  thicker 
till  at  last  we  reach  a  plain  black 
gate  forming  the  entrance  to  the 
temple  grounds.  The  exception- 
ally fine  bronze  image  of  Jizo  just 
outside  dates  from  the  year  1745. 
It  was  the  gift  of  a  female  devotee. 
The  smaller  but  handsome  bronze 
Kwannon  inside  the  gate  to  the  1. 
dates  from  1852.  From  here  it  is 
but  a  few  yards  to  the  ^ankei-nin 
iori-ahirdbe-sho,  or  *  place  for  the 
examination  of  pilgrims,'  where  the 
traveller  will  be  asked  whence  he 
comes  and  at  which  temple  he 
wishes  to  lodge,  and  will  then  be 
furnished  gratis  with  a  gtiide  to 
conduct  him  thither ;  or,  if  he  have 
no  preference  and  no  letter  of 
introduction,  some  lodging  will  be 
assigned  to  him.  This  question 
of  the  lodging  is  important,  as 
there  are  no  inns  at  Koya-san. 
The  temples  do  duty  for  them — or 
rather  the  priests*  residences  in- 
cluded in  the  Japanese  term  for  a 
Suddhist  temple  {iera).  Many  are 
apt  to  be  too  full  of  pilgrims  of  the 
lower  class  to  afford  pleasant  quar- 
ters. The  most  aristocratic,  in 
1891,  were  Shojo  Shin-in  possessing 
beautiful  suites  of  rooms,  Henjo 
Koin,  Kongo  Sammai-in,  and  Joki- 
in.  The  people  at  Kamuro  will 
probably  endeavour  to  persuade 
the  tourist  into  patronising  some 


inferior  place  with  which  they  ar& 
in  league.    Of  course  no  foreiga 
food  is  provided  by  the  priestly- 
hosts,    neither    does    their    fara 
include  any    fish,    as    all    takings 
of  life  is  prohibited  by  the  strict 
Buddhist  rule  which  governs  the 
monastery.    The  traveller,  unless 
he  be  a  vegetarian,   must  there- 
fore come  provided.     The   monks 
will  make  no  very  strict  enquiry 
into  what  he  may  see  fit  to  eat, 
neither  is  he  expected  to  abstain 
from  strong  liquors.     He  should 
remember    that  they    are  monks,, 
not     innkeepers,    and    must     re- 
frain from   ordering  them  about. 
There  is  no  fixed  charge  for  board 
and  lodging,  but  it  behoves  the 
visitor  to  be  liberal,  and  to  g^ve  at 
least  as  much  as  he  would  in  a 
good  inn.   The  service  of  the  rooms 
is  all  done    by    young    boys,    no 
woman  being  admitted  to  any  such 
employment.      Indeed,   it  is   only 
during    the    present     reign    that 
women  have    been    permitted    to 
make  the  pilgrimage  at  all.     All 
the  pilgrims  are  wakened  before 
dawn ;  and  the  traveller  may,  if  he 
likes,     assist    at     matins,     which 
service  is  performed  in  a  hall  lined 
with  thousands  of  funeral  tablets, 
prayers  being  offered  up  for  the 
souls  of  those  whose  names  are  in- 
scribed thereon.    Koya-san  has  no 
mosquitoes. 

Kongobuji— for  that  is  the  proper  name 
of  the  monastpry,  Koyii-san  beiufir  only  the 
name  of  the  mountain  on  which  it  stands — 
is  one  of  tlie  oldest  religious  foundations 
in  Japan.  It  dates  from  A.D.  816,  having 
been  then  founded  by  the  gi'eat  saint, 
Kobo  Daishi,  to  whom  the  Emperor  Saga 
made  a  grant  of  land  for  the  purpose, 
^s  K5b5  Daishi  was  on  his  way  up  the 
mountiiin,  he  met  the  Shinto  god  of  the 
locality,  who  was  accompanied  bjr  two 
dogs.  This  god  promised  his  protection  to 
the  monastery,  and  in  return  for  this  the 
Shinto  Temple  of  Nya,  dedicated  to  the 
mountain-god's  mother,  was  afterwards 
biiilt  in  one  of  the  neighbouring  valleys. 
1'his  legend  is  the  explanntion  given  of 
the  toleration  of  dogs  on  Ko^a-san,  while 
no  other  animals  are  pennitted  to  enter 
the  precincts.  Other  prohibitions  existed 
in  former  times  against  musical  instni- 
moLts,  the  planting  of  bamboos  or  trees 


Gi'eat  Cemetery  of  Kdya-san. 


841 


tliat  could  he  turned  to  profit,  archery 
and  football,  gambling  and  checkers, 
iMunboo  brooms,  and  three-pronged  hay- 
forks. The  principal  mediseval  bene- 
factors of  the  monastery  were  tne  Emperor 
Shirakawa  and  Hideyoshi.  The  lattet's 
nephew  and  adopted  son  Hidetsugu  com- 
mitted ,  harnkiri  here.  Eoya-san  has  ex- 
perienced no  striking  reverses,  thou^rh,  like 
all  Buddhist  monasteries,  it  has  suffered  to 
some  extent  from  the  recent  disestablish- 
ment of  Buddhism.  Its  greatest  enemy 
"baa  been  fire.  The  conflagrations  of  1843 
and  1888  were  the  most  disastrous  duiing 
the  present  century  The  great  pagoda 
perished  on  the  former  occasion,  and  has 
never  been  rebuilt.  On  the  latter,  wlien 
the  fire  histed  for  two  days  (11th— 12th 
IPebruary),  large  numbers  of  the  piiest-s' 
dwelling  were  swept  away,  but  fortunately 
no  edifice  of  special  importance. 

The  sights  of  Koya-san  take  half 
a  day  to  see.  The  first  and  most 
impressive  is  a  monster  Cemetery, 
through  which  leads  an  avenue  of 
cryptomerias  1 8  cho  long ;  or 
rather  the  cemetery  is  a  kind  of 
irregular  avenue  laid  along  a  mag- 
nificent cryptomeria  forest.  Not 
indeed  that  most  of  the  bodies 
are  actually  buried  here.  In 
many  cases  the  so-called  tomb  is 
merely  a  monument  raised  to  the 
memory  of  the  dead  believer,  who, 
through  this  nominal  burial  by  the 
side  of  Kobo  Daishi,  obtains  the 
spiritual  privilege  of  re-birth  into 
the  Tosotsu  Heaven,  or  into  Jodo, 
•the  Pure  Land  of  Perfect  Bliss.'  In 
other  cases,  after  the  corpse  has  been 
cremated,  the  Adam's -apple  and 
some  of  the  teeth  are  sent  to  Koya- 
san,  these  remains  being  thrown 
into  a  common  pit  called  Kotsvrdot 
or  the  Hall  of  Bones,  in  the  case  of 
persons  who  cannot  go  to  the  ex- 
pense of  a  separate  tomb.  At  aU 
events  their  funeral  tablets  are 
sent  to  the  monastery,  to  be  prayed 
over  daily.  As  one  walks  along 
the  avenue,  a  special  cicerone  who 
has  all  the  names  by  heart,  points 
out  the  most  important  graves. 
Aft-er  crossing  the  Ichino-hashi, 
or  First  Bridge  over  the  tiny 
Odogawa,  the  monuments  of  the 
Baimyos  of  Sendai,  Uwajima, 
Kaga^    and  Satsuma   are    among 


those  first  passed.  Such  noble- 
men's monuments  may  be  distin- 
guished from  those  of  commoners 
by  their  peculiar  pagoda  shape 
(Jap.  sotoha  or  gorin),  the  five 
superposed  parts  of  which  repre- 
sent the  five  elements.  A  little 
off  the  road  to  the  r.  are  the 
graves  of  the  celebrated  heroes 
Atsumori  and  Kumagai  Naozane, 
and  then  those  of  the  Dai- 
myos  of  Hizen,  Matsumae,  and 
Choshu;  then — but  we  can  only 
pick  out  a  few  names  from  among 
thousands  —  the  early  warrior 
Tada-no-Manju  (this  is  the  oldest 
monument  in  the  cemetery),  the 
16th  century  chieftain  Takeda 
Shingen,  the  Hachisuka  family, 
li-kamon-no-Kami,  the  Daimyos 
of  Tosa,  the  traitor  Akechi  Mitsu- 
hide  whose  monument  has  been 
split  from  top  to  bottom  by  a 
thunderbolt  as  a  warning  to  faith- 
less servants,  and  so  on  ad  infini- 
tum. In  the  cases  of  great  families, 
many  subsidiary  monuments  sur- 
round the  chief  one  in  the  little  en- 
closure, and  before  this  often  stands 
a  tarii,  the  stone  for  which,  as  for 
all  the  monuments,  comes  from  a 
place  in  the  province  of  Bizen 
called  Mikage,  a  word  that  has 
come  to  be  the  Japanese  name  for 
'granite.'  The  monument  of  the 
Ichikawa  Danjuro  family  of  actors, 
just  before  reaching  the  Naha-no- 
Hashi,  or  Middle  Bridge,  is  distin- 
guished by  a  thin  pillar.  That 
with  a  prayer-wheel  in  front  is 
dedicated  to  Jizo,  and  is  called  the 
Ase-kdki  Jizo,  because  believed  to 
be  covered  every  morning  with  the 
perspiration  which  that  god's 
sufferings  in  hell  for  the  good  of 
the  human  race  bring  out  on 
his  body.  The  Daimyos  of  Geishu 
have  the  second  largest  monument 
in  the  cemetery,  those  of  Suruga 
the  largest  of  all.  Next  we  come 
to  that  of  the  Imperial  Princess 
Sei-Kwan-in-no-Miya,  28  ft.  high, 
to  those  of  the  celebrated  poet 
Basho,  of  the  saint  Enko  Daishi, 


842 


Tloute  46, — Through  Yatnato  to  Koya-san. 


of  Asano  Takami-no-Kami,  the 
unhappy  lord  of  the  Forty-seven 
Eonins,  etc.,  etc.  We  next  arrive 
at  a  shrine  containing  1,000  gilt 
images  of  Amida,  with  another 
beside  it  having  a  statue  of  Kobo 
Daishi  at  the  age  of  42,  carved  by 
himself;  and  after  that  another 
temple  with  pictures  (mandara)  by 
the  same  saint  of  the  two  halves 
of  the  Buddhist  universe  (Kongo- 
Icdi  and  Taizo-hai).  The  next 
feature  in  the  walk  is  afforded  by 
some  bronze  images  of  Jizo,  Fudo, 
and  Dainichi,  placed  behind  a 
trough  of  water.  Believers  sprinkle 
this  water  over  the  images,  in 
order  to  benefit  the.  souls  of  their 
own  ancestors.  Immediately  be- 
yond, is  a  small  bridge  called  the 
Muniyd  no  Hashi,  or  Nameless 
Bridge,  a  corruption  of  Mi  Twyo  no 
Hdshiy  or  Bridge  of  the  August 
Mausoleum.  It  is  believed  that 
no  one  can  cross  this  bridge  who 
is  unacceptable  to  Kobo  Daishi. 

There  is  a  tradition  that  Hideyoshi  made 
ft  pilgriimage  hither  after  he  had  risen  to 
the  highest  position  in  the  Empire,  and  ac- 
companied bv  the  hif^h-priest  alone  came 
at  night  as  far  as  the  bridge,  crossed  it, 
and  turned  back  again  without  going  a? 
far  as  the  tomb,  thus  satisfying  himself 
that  the  slaughter  he  had  been  compelled 
to  make  of  his  enemies  in  order  to  seize 
the  supreme  power  and  restore  peace  to  the 
nation,  was  approved  by  Kobo  Daishi,  and 
that  he  might  now  pay  his  formal  visit  on 
the  morrow  in  full  state,  accompanied  by 
all  the  piinces,  -without  fear  of  being  put 
to  shame  before  them. 

A  separate  enclosure  to  the  1. 
contains  the  unpretentious  monu- 
ments of  several  Mikados.  We 
next  reach  the  Ma'nddrd,  but  first 
look  in  at  the  octagonal  Kotsu-do, 
or  Hall  of  Bones  alreaidy  mention- 
ed, and  peer  through  the  gate  of 
the  Cro  Bydy  or  Tomb  of  Kobo 
Daishi^  which  is  never  opened  save 
on  the  2l8t  day  of  the  3rd  moon, 
old  style,  when  new  vestments 
are  provided  for  the  dead  saint. 
We  also  perceive  two  small  Shinto 
shrines  just  showing  through  the 
thick  trees.  The  Mandoro,  or  HaU  of 
Ten  Thousand  Lamps«  is  a  wooden 


building  100  ft.  long,  and  some- 
what less  than  half  that  in  <^pth, 
with  closed  grated  shutters.  As 
far  as  the  eye  can  penetrate  the 
darkness  of  the  interior,  countless 
brass  lamps  may  be  seen  ranged  in 
rows.  Of  these  only  about  one  hund- 
red are  kept  lighted,  the  present 
reduced  state  of  the  monastery's 
exchequer  not  permitting  more 
lavish  expenditure. 

No  offering  can  be  more  acceptable  in 
the  eyes  of  Buddhistic  piety  than  burning 
lamps,  which  typify  the  refulgent  wisdom 
of  the  gods  Daiuichi  and  Araida.  A  story 
is  told  which  recalls  the  Bible  story  of  the 
widow's  mite : — Ou  some  great  occasion  a 
rich  man  presented  ten  thousand  lamp9» 
while  a  poor  woman,  who  had  nothing,  cat 
off  her  lopMT  tresses  to  make  up  money  enough 
to  present  a  single  lamp.  Nevertheless 
her  offering  was  the  more  acceptable  of 
the  two ;  and  when  a  gust  of  wind  arose, 
the  rich  man's  ten  thousand  lamps  were 
all  blown  out,  but  the  poor  woman' 8  single 
lamp  shone  on  with  increased  brilliancy. 
Accordingly  the  largest  lamp  in  the  hall  is 
called  the  Hiaja  no  IttG,  or  Poor  Woman's 
Single  Lamp. 

So  far  the  Cemetery.  The  tra- 
veller now  returns  the  way  he 
came,  and,  after  picking  up  his 
luggage,  will  see  the  rest  of  the 
sights  on  his  way  back  to  the  gate 
leading  in  the  direction  of  Kamuro. 

Leaving  the  temple  where  we 
have  lodged,  we  wend  through  the 
village,  accompanied  as  before  by 
our  priestly  guide,  sad  traces  of  the 
great  fire  of  1888  being  visible  all 
around.  First  we  visit  the  Kongo 
Buji,  or  abbot's  residence,  an  un- 
usually handsome  specimen  of 
Japanese  domestic  architecture, 
adorned  with  gold  sliding  screens 
by  Kano  Tan-yu,  Sesshii,  Tan- 
zan,  and  other  classical  artists. 
An  old-fashioned  arrangement  to 
be  seen  here,  as  in  others  of  the 
monks'  residences,  is  what  is  called 
the  irori  no  nia,  or  *  hearth  room,* 
which  is  an  apartment  having  a 
large  square  chimney  like  a  pillar 
and  with  a  small  altar  on  one 
side.  The  monks  sit  round  this 
heated  pillar  in  winter  to  recite 
their  scriptures.    The  room  where 


Tlie  Kondo  Temple,     The  Seminary, 


848 


Hidetsngn  committed  haraJciri  has 
been  restored  exactly  in  the  style 
of  his  period  (end  of  16th  century). 

We  next  proceed  to  the  Shichi- 
do  Garan,  or  temples  proper,  and 
passing  by  several  which  are  un- 
interesting, stop  to  examine  the 
Kondo,  or  Golden  Kail.  Burnt  in 
1843,  but  restored  in  1852.  this 
:grand  edifice  fully  deserves  its 
name,  for  the  interior  is  ablaze 
yrith  gold  and  glorious  colouring. 
Nor  is  it  only  beautiful.  The 
keyaki  wood,  of  which  the  huge 
beams  and  columns  consist,  pro- 
claims its  solidity,  and  even  the 
magnificent  carvings  adorning  the 
•exterior  are  of  the  same  material, 
some  of  the  slabs  being  9  ft.  long 
by  4  ft.  high.  The  plan  of  the 
building  is  three  squares,  one  with- 
in the  other.  The  outermost  of 
iihese  squares  is  the  uncoloured 
-carved  shell  just  mentioned;  that 
next  to  it  is  the  gejin  or  nave,  while 
the  innermost  is  the  naijin  or  chan- 
cel, and  this  it  is  that  the  artist 
has  so  splendidly  decorated  with 
•gold,  with  paintings  of  angels  and 
Buddhist  deities,  and  with  coloured 
carvings  of  birds.  Images  of  the 
deities  Kongo  Satta,  Fudo,  Fugen, 
Kong6-6,  Qozanze  Myo-o,  and  Ko- 
knzo  Bosatsu  stand  on  a  raised 
dais,  whose  sides  are  filled  in  with 
the  peony  and  lion  in  gilt  open- 
work, while  the  ceiling  above 
them  glows  with  rich  paintings  of 
dragons  having  a  phoenix  in  their 
midst.  The  shrine  guarded  by 
these  images  contains  one  of  the 
-god  Yakushi  carved  by  Kobo  Dai- 
shi  himself.  The  mandara  hanging 
to  the  pillars  represent,  as  usual, 
.the  two  halves  of  the  Buddhist 
universe.  On  leaving,  notice  the 
paintings  of  the  Sixteen  Rakan, 
which  are  about  9  ft.  sq.  and  ex- 
ecuted in  an  extremely  florid  style. 
The  holy  men  are  painted  in  four 
groups  of  four  each. 

In  an  adjacent  building  the 
•gigantic  gilt  images  of  the  Go-chi 
Nyorai,  or  Five  Gods  of  Wisdom, 


formerly  in  the  Pagoda,  have  now 
their  temporary  abode.  The  Saito, 
or  Western  Pagoda,  is  a  two- 
-storied building  of  a  curiously 
complicated  style  of  construction. 
Among  other  minor  buildings,  may 
be  mentioned  two  small  Shint^ 
shrines  dedicated  to  the  aboriginal 
Japanese  gods  who  ruled  the  moun- 
tain before  Kobo  Daishi's  advent, 
— ^brilliantly  painted  with  red 
ochre,  and  forming  a  striking  con- 
trast to  the  adjacent  grey  unpaint- 
ed  Buddhist  shrines;  also  the 
KyodOy  or  Revolving  Library,  ele- 
gantly constructed  in  the  shape  of 
a  two-storied  pagoda,  and  the 
MieidOy  containing  a  celebrated 
portrait  of  Ivobo  Daishi  painted 
by  his  disciple  Prince  Shinnyo,  the 
eyes  of  which  were  dotted  in  by 
the  saint  himself. 

Leaving  the  enclosure  that  holds 
all  these  buildings,  we  turn  r.  arid 
see  ahead  the  summit  of  Jin-ga- 
mine, 50  cho  distant  from  the  far- 
end  of  the  great  Cemetery,  and 
affording — at  least  so  the  monks 
declare — a  view  over  portions  of  no 
less  than  thirty  provinces.  To  the 
1.  is  the  Seminary  (Gakurin),  which 
is  not  usually  visited,  but  which 
is  excellently  fitted  up  to  ac- 
commodate the  120  indoor  stu- 
dents and  200  outdoor  students 
who  resort  to  it  for  religious  in- 
struction. Some  of  the  class-rooms 
are  fitted  up  in  European  fashion 
with  benches  and  black-boards, 
while  others  retain  the  old  Japa- 
nese style, — mats,  a  sort  of  dais 
for  the  lecturer,  and  a  kakenwno  of 
Kobo  Daishi  at  one  end  of  the 
room.  Each  bedroom  is  shared  by 
two  or  three  students.  Before 
meals,  a  long  Buddhist  grace  is 
intoned.  From  the  Seminary  we 
soon  reach  the  gate  of  the  temple 
grounds,  and  leave  the  monastery 
of  Koya-san  by  the  way  we  en- 
tered it,  retracing  our  steps  down 
to  the  vill.  of  Kamuro. 

[Instead  of  returning  to  Kamuro 


844 


Route  47. — From  Kyoto  to  Ama-no-Hashidate. 


and  going  on  to  Sakai,  the 
traveller  wishing  to  visit 
Wakayama  (Inn,  Fnji-gen), 
the  capital  of  the  province  of 
Kishu,  may  reach  it  from 
Koya-san  by  walking  to  Shi- 
buta  (Inn,  Omi-ya),  a  distance 
of  5  ri  of  50  cho  each  (a  little 
over  7  ordinary  ri,  or  about 
17i  m.  English),  and  there 
taking  a  jinrikisha  over  a 
good  road  for  6  ri  more.  This 
is  a  pretty  trip.  Wakayama 
•  still  retains  its  ancient  castle 
in  fairly  good  preservation. 
The  temple  of  Kiimi-dera,  too, 
about  25  cho  out  of  the  town, 
has  a  charming  view.  The 
way  thither  leads  along  a  por- 
tion of  the  coast  noted  for 
its  beauty,  called  Waka-no- 
,  lira.  From  Wakayama  to 
Sakai  is  a  jinrikisha  journey 
of  14  ri.  Coasting  steamers 
may  also  be  availed  of.] 

The  whole  way  from  Kamuro  to 
Sakai  can  be  done  in  jinrikishas, 
and  most  of  it  is  higlily  pictur- 
esque. One  must  walk  up  a  portion 
of  the  Kiimi-toge,  which  affords  fine 
views  of  the  mountains  of  Kishu 
r.,  and  Yamato  1. 

Mikkaiclii  {Inn,  Abura-ya),  like 
most  other  towns  in  the  neigh- 
bourhood of  Koya-san,  lives  on  the 
pilgrims  to  that  holy  shrine,  and  is 
the  usual  halting-place  for  the 
night.  From  here  on  for  some  miles 
there  is  a  succession  of  hills,  none 
bowever  so  steep  as  to  necessitate 
alighting  from  a  jinrikisha  with 
two  good  coolies.  At  the  hamlet 
of  Yamamoto,  the  plain  of  Izumi 
is  seen  stretching  away  at  the 
spectator's  feet,  and  soon  he  enters 

Fiikiimaclii  (Inn,  Shiba-ya),  a 
better  place  for  those  who  seek 
quiet  and  attention  to  stay  at  than 
Mikkaichi,  because  less  apt  to  be 
fuU  of  pilgrims.  Thence  the  road 
leads  along  the  broad  fertile  plain 
to 

Sakai  (seep.  286). 


EOUTE  47. 
From  Kyoto  theough  Tamba  to 

MiTAZU   ON    THE    SeA    OF    JaPAN- 

Ama-no-Hashidate.  ■ 

Itinerat'y. 

KYOTO  to :—               Ri.  CU.  M. 

Kameoka    6  2  14f 

Sonobe    4  21  Hi 

Hiyama  3  31       9^ 

Ikuno 5  33  14| 

Fukuchiyama    2  26       6f 

Komori  (Tadehara)  3  13      8i 

Ogawa     2  20      6| 

Yura    3  13       8i 

MIYAZU   3  7      7f 

Total 35    22    87 


There  is  an  excellent  jinrikisha 
road  the  whole  way,  and  carriages 
may  be  taken  from  Fukuchiyama 
to  Miyazu.  Those  whose  sole 
object  is  to  visit  Ama-no-Hashi- 
date may  prefer  taking  train  to- 
Tsuruga,  whence  steamer  to  Miya- 
zu in  12  hrs.  The  first  stages  of 
the  journey,  as  far  as  Hiyama,  ar& 
dull  travelling;  but  thence  onwards 
the  scenery  improves,  the  road 
crossing  and  recrossing  the  Yura- 
gawa  amongst  well-wooded  hills 
over  undulating  country. 

Kameoka  (fair  accommodation) 
was  formerly  the  castle-town  of  a 
small  Daimyo,  as  was  also 

Sonobe  (fair  accommodation). 
The  Kwannon-toge  is  passed  on 
the  way  to 

Hiyama  (Inn,  the  old  Honjin), 
which  is  a  good  halting-place  for 
the  night. 

Ikuno  on  this  route. should  not 
be  confounded  with  the  Ikuno  in 
Tajima  noted  for  its  silver  mines. 
Numerous  uninteresting  hamlets 
are  passed  before  reachikg 

Fukuchiyama  (Inn^  *Baikatsu). 
The  site  of  the  former  Daimyo's 
castle,  now  occupied  by  a  Shuito* 


Legend  of  Oeyama. 


845 


"temple,  is  worth  a  visit.  Fukuchi- 
yama  is  girdled  on  three  sides  by 
mountains :  N.,  Mitake-yama ;  W., 
Ana-no-ura-toge ;  N.E.,  Oni-ga-jo, 
w^hich  derives  its  name  from  the 
ogre  who  is  supposed  to  have  in- 
liabited  its  fastnesses  before  he 
"took  refuge  in  Oe-yama  further 
north.  His  cave  is  still  shown  on 
the  hill-side. 

An  alternative  way  from  Fnku- 
•chi-yama  to  the  coast  is  by  boat 
<iown  the  Yuragawa,  so  called  from 
the  vill.  of  Yura  where  it  debouches 
into  the  sea.  But  travellers  are 
-advised  to  take  the  boat  only  as  far 
as  Komori,  3  ri,  the  current  being 
swift  down  to  that  place,  but 
sluggish  beyond.  The  passage  oc- 
cupies 2  hrs.  either  by  passenger 
boat,  starting  daily,  or  by  private 
boat.  The  scenery  is  romantic. 
From 

K5mori  (Inn,  Tan-yasu);  onwards 
there  is  a  choice  between  the  fine 
new  jinrikisha  road  (9  n)  and  the 
•old_road  (6^  ri)  skirting  the  base 
of  Oeyama,  a  name  well-known  in 
antique  legend.  Another  name  for 
the  mountain  is  Senjo-ga-take. 

The  legend  of  Oeyama,  which  we  give 
\3artly  in  the  words  of  Mrs.  T.  H.  James, 
who  has  told  it  in  a  story  entitled  '  The 
Ogre's  Arm,'  written  for  the  Kobunsha 
iJeries  of  Japanese  Fairy-tales,  is  as 
follows  : — 

Once  upon  a  time  there  dwelt  in  Oe- 
yama a  race  of  ogres,  whose  chief  was 
-called  Shuten  Dqji.  Now  Shuten  l^oji 
and  his  band  used  to  come  down  from 
time  to  time  upon  the  city  of  Kyoto, 
■entering  it  by  the  large  gate  called  Rasho- 
mon,  causing  great  terror  to  all  the 
inhabitants,  many  of  whom  they  slaugh- 
tered and  whose  lovely  daughters  they 
carried  away  into  captivity  and  shame. 
There  then  lived  in  Kyoto  a  brave  warrior 
named  Raiko,  who  had  four  retainers, 
the  niost  daring  of  whom  was  Tsuna.  So 
Tsuna  offered  to  watch  alone  one  night 
for  the  ogres'  coming.  This  his  master 
permitted  him  to  do ;  and  the  result  of  his 
tussle  with  Shuten  Doji  was  that  he  got 
the  l)est  of  the  tight,  severing  the  mon- 
ster's arm  and  carrying  it  home  with  him 
as  a  trophy.  Ogtcs  are  not  lightly  to  be 
tampei*ed  with.  Accordingly  a  famous 
wizard  who  was  consulted  by  Raiko  and 
Tsuna  next  day,  advised  that  the  arm  be 
put  in  a  stro.og  stone  chest  to  be  opened 
on  no  pretence  whatever,  while   Tsuna 


was  to  purify  himself  by  prayer  and  fast- 
ing, and  hold  guard  over  the  chest  for 
seven  days  and  nights  without  speaking 
to  any  mortal  man  or  woman.  Unless 
these  precautions  were  religiously  ob- 
served, the  wizard  predicted  the  occur- 
rence of  some  dire  misfortune.  Tsuna 
obeyed,  and  the  ogre's  arm  was  placed  in 
a  strong  stone  chest,  over  which  Tsuna 
kept  his  holy  vigil.  At  last  one  night, 
when  the  seven  days  and  nights  were 
almost  accomplished,  came  a  knocking  at 
the  gate. 

'  Who  is  there  ? '  cried  Tsuna.  *  It  is 
your  old  aunt  from  the  country,'  an- 
swered a  cracked  and  feeble  voice.  *  Pray 
open  the  door.' 

Tsuna  answered,  *  I  am  under  a  vow  to 
hold  converse  with  none  until  seven  days 
be  past.  I  cdnnot  open  the  door  even  to 
my  aunt,' 

'  I  kuow  that,'  returned  the  voice.  *  But 
I  have  come  a  long  way  on  purpose  to  see 
you.  I  am  foot-sore  and  weary;  surely 
you  will  not  turn  me  away.* 

Tsuna  still  refused  for  some  time  ;  but 
at  last  he  allowed  himself  to  be  persuaded 
to  open  the  door. 

'I  have  heard  of  your  noble  exploit,' 
said  the  old  woman  as  she  entered, '  and 
have  come  all  this  long  way  to  tell  you 
how  proud  T  am  of  my  brave  nephew.' 

'And  where  is  the  ogre's  arm  now?* 
she  continued,  when  Tsuna  had  thanked 
her  for  her  kindness  in  coming  to  see  him. 

'  The  arm  is  in  this  stone  chest,'  said  he. 

'Is  it  indeed  now?  Well,  would  you 
believe  it?— although  I  have  lived  all 
these  many  years,  yet  I  have  never  in  my 
life  seen  such  a  thing.  Let  me  pray  have 
one  little  peep  at  it.' 

'  I  am  sorry,'  answered  Tsuna,  *  but  my 
vow  forbids  my  opening  the  chest,  or  show- 
ing the  arm  to  any  one,  even  for  a  moment, 
until  the  seven  days  are  past.' 

At  this  the  old  woman  burst  into  bitter 
tears,  refusing  to  be  comforted.  There- 
upon Tsuna,  who  was  a  soft-hearted  young 
warrior,  could  withstand  her  no  longer. 

'  Just  one  look  then,'  said  he,  and  lifted 
the  lid  of  the  chest. 

The  pretended  aunt  took  .up  the  arm, 
and  seemed  to  ])e  gazing  at  it  in  a  kind  of 
rapture,  when  suddenly  appearing  in  her 
true  shape,  which  was  none  other  than 
that  of  the  ogre  Shuten  Doji,  she  shouted, 
'  My  aim  is  my  own  again,'  and  imme- 
diately vanished  through  a  hole  in  the 
roof. 

I 

Then  the  Mikado  ordered  BaikO  to 
follow  up  the  ogres  to  theh*  haunts  and 
exterminate  them.  An  open  attack 
would  have  been  vain.  Raik5  therefore 
had  recourse  to  stratagem.  He  and  his 
four  followers  attired  themselves  as  wan- 
dering priests,  and  set  out  over  the  moun- 
tains. When  they  had  arrived  in  the 
land  of  Tamba— w^andering  about  vaguely, 
for  they  knew  not  where  the  ogres  dwelt — 
they  one  day  met  an  old  wood-cutter,  who 
was  really  none  other  than  the  great  god. 


846 


Boute  47. — From  Kyoto  to  Ama-no-Hashidate, 


of  Sumiyoshi  in.  disfiruise.  By  him  they 
were  led  to  a  stream  where  they  found 
a  maiden  washing  some  .  blood-stained 
frarments,  and  she,  after  many  warn- 
ings which  they  refused  to  heed,  led 
them  into  the  ogres'  cavern  on  Oeyama, 
where  their  appearance  caused  almost  as 
much  fright  to  the  oi^es  as  the  ogres' 
appearance  might  be  supposed  to  cause  to 
them.  The  reason  was  that  the  ogKB 
quailed  before  the  superior  power  of  holy 
priests  of  Buddha.  Nevertheless  the  wan- 
derers were  admitted,  they  were  feasted, 
they  danced  for  their  hosts,  and  at 
last  induced  the  ogres,  who  were  already 
lialf-intoxicated,  to  drink  some  heavily 
dragged  mke  which  they  had  brought 
with  them  for  this  purpose  in  sections  of 
bamboo.  Shuten  Ddji  and  his  Imnd  all 
fell  into  a  deep  slumber,  during  which 
Baikd  and  his  companions  hacked  them 
to  pieces  Thus  was  Kyoto  freed  from 
the  depredations  of  the  ogres  of  Oeyama. 

[Near  Ogawa,  a  road  diverges  to 
Maiznrn,  (Inn,  Watanabe), 
which  possesses  the  best  har- 
bour on  the  W.  coast  and  has 
recently  been  selected  as  one 
of  the  new  naval  dep6ts.] 

The  valley  of  the  Yuragawa, 
which  the  main  road  follows,  grows 
more  and  more  beautiful  as  one 
approaches  its  mouth,  till  at  last  the 
eye  rests  on  the  Sea  of  Japan  with 
rocky  islets  in_the  offing. 

Yura  {Inn,  Omori),  though  such 
an  out-of-the-way  spot,  is  men- 
tioned in  the  national  annals  as 
the  birthplace  of  Urashima  Taro, 
the  Japanese  Rip  Van  Winkle. 

The  legend  of  Urashima  is  one  of  the 
oldest  in  the  langunge,  and  is  accepted  as 
veritable  histoiy  by  the  literati  of  the 
older  school.  The  original  of  the  follow- 
ing poem  is  at  least  as  old  as  A.D.  760,  and 
probably  far  older  :— 

THE   FISHER-BOY  UKi.«HIMA. 

*Tis  Spring,  and  the  mist  comes  stealing 

O'er  Suminoye's  shore, 
And  I  stand  l)y  the  sea-sida  musing 

On  the  days  that  are  no  more. 

I  muse  on  the  old-world  story. 
As  the  Ixxits  gli«le  to  and  fro. 

Of  the  fisher-boy  Urashima, 
Who  a-flshing  loved  to  go. 

How  he  came  not  ba-ck  to  the  village 

'    Though  sev'n  suns  had  risen  and  set. 
But  rowed  on  past  the  Ixiunds  of  ocean. 
And  the  Sea-God's  daughter  met ;      1 


How  they  pledged  their  faith  to  eaclb 
other. 

And  came  to  the  Evergreen  Land, 
And  entered  the  Sea-God's  palace 

So  lovingly  hand  in  hand. 

To  dwell  for  aye  in  that  country. 
The  ocean-maiden  and  he,— 

The  country  where  youth  and  beauty 
Abide  ctemallj'. 

But  the  foolish  boy  said,  *  To-morrow 
I'll  come  back  with  thee  to  dwell  ;- 

But  I  have  a  word  to  my  father, 
A  word  to  my  mother  to  tell.* 

The  maiden  answered,  *  A  casket 

I  give  into  thine  hand ; 
And  if  that  thou  hopest  truly 

To  come  back  to  the  Evergreen  Land,. 

'  Then  open  it  not,  I  charge  thee ! 

Open  it  not,  I  beseech !  * 
So  the  boy  rowed  home  o'er  the  billows- 

To  Suminoye's  beach. 

But  where  is  his  native  hamlet? 

Strange  hamlets  line  the  .strand. 
Where  is  his  mother's  cottage  ? 

Strange  cots  rise  on  either  hand. 

'What!  in   three   short   years   since  I 
left  it,' 

He  cries  in  his  wonder  sore, 
'Has  the  home  of  my  childhood  vanished?" 

Is  the  bamboo  fence  no  more  ? 

*  Perchance  if  I  open  the  casket 
Which  the  maiden  gave  to  me. 

My  home  and  the  dear  old  village" 

Will  come  back  as  they  used  to  be>- 

And  he  lifts  the  lid,  and  there  rises 

A  fleecy,  silvery  cloud. 
That  floats  off  to  the  Evergreen  Country— 

And  the  flsher-boy  cries  aloud; 

He  waves  the  sleeve  of  his  tunic. 
He  rolls  over  on  the  ground. 

He  dances  with  fury  ami  horror. 

Running  wildly  round  and  round. 

But  a  sudden  chill  comes  o'er  him 
That  bleaches  his  raven  hair. 

And  furrows  with  hoary  wrinkles 
The  fonn  erst  so  young  and  fair. 

His  breath  grows  fainter  and  fainter. 
Till  at  last  he  sinks  dead  on  the 
shore ; 

And  I  gaze  on  the  spot  where  his  cottage 
Once  stood,  but  now  stands  no  more» 

From  Yura  the  road  follows  the 
windings  of  the  coast  till  it  reaches 
a  large  vill.  where  it  turns  inland^ 
and  passes  through  a  tunnel  front 


EoiUe  48. — The  San-indo. 


847 


^hose  mouth  Ama-no-Hashidate  is 
seen  straight  ahead  and  Miyazu  to 
the  1.  This  is  a  charming  section 
of  the  route. 

Miyaza  (Inn,  Ariki)  is  a  small 
town  having  considerable  fisheries 
and  daily  steamboat  communica- 
tion with  Tsuruga,  12  hrs.,  and 
occasional  communication  with 
Sakai  (for  Matsue  in  Izumo)  and 
^th  Shimonoseki. 

Ama-no-Hashidate  is  famous 
throughout  the  length  and  breadth 
of  Japan  as  one  of  the  San-keit  or 
•Three  Great  Sights'  of  the  Em- 
pire. Described  in  prosaic  topo- 
graphical parlanc^^  it  is  a  narrow 
sandy  spit  stretching  out  to  sea  in  ^ 
a  S.E.  direction  for  a  distance  of 
not  quite  28  cho,  or  nearly  2  m. 
Its  breadth  is  32  ken,  that  is,  about 
190  ft.  English.  An  avenue  of 
pine-trees  runs  right  along  it.  The 
little  bay  which  it  encloses,  called 
Iwaiaki  no  minato,  is  1  W  from  E.  to 
W.,  and  over  1  ri  from  N.  to  S. 
The  depth  of  the  bay  in  the  middle 
is  11  fathoms ;  but  the  entrance  is 
too  shallow  to  admit  any  but  the 
smallest  craft.  Hence,  though  the 
waves  may  be  in  seething  commo- 
tion on  one  side,  on  the  other  but  a 
few  yards  off  there  is  the  perfect 
stillness  of  a  mill-pond.  Chionji, 
a  Buddhist  temple  opposite  the  tip 
of  Ama-no-Hashidate,  is  1  m. 
from  Miyazu,  and  may  be  reached 
either  by  land  or  by  boat. 
From  Chionji  passengers  are  con- 
veyed across  to  the  tip  of  the 
peninsula  in  a  ferry-boat,  a  dis- 
tance of  some  200  yds.  Such  are 
the  dry  facts  relating  to  this 
celebrated  spot.  But  the  magic 
beauty  of  it  must  be  seen  to  be 
appreciated,  it  being,  as  a  Japanese 
poet  has  said,  past  the  power  of 
words  to  tell.  In  order  to  see  it 
to  best  advantage,  the  traveller 
should  climb  the  neighbouring 
hill  of  Myoken-zan,  where  there 
will  be  spread  out  before  him  on  a 
fine  day  a  wondrous  panorama  of 
sea  and  mountains  with  the  deli- 


cate, fairy-like,  pine-clad  peninsula 
in  the  foreground. 

The  curious  name  of  Ama-no-Haehidate, 
literally  '  the  bridge  (or  ladder)  of  heaven,* 
is  said  to  have  been  given  to  this  place  in 
allusion  to  the  ama  no  vJci-ka3hi,  or  *  float- 
ing bridgre  of  heaven,'  whereon  the  creator 
and  creati^ess,  Izanugi  and  Izanaini,  stood 
when  they  stirred  up  the  brine, of  primeval 
chaos  "witn  their  jewelled  spear,  the  drops 
from  which  consolidated,  into  the  first 
island  of  the  Japanese  archipelago.  The 
little  Shinto  shrine  at  the  point  of  the 
peninsula  is.  however,  dedicated  to  Hashi- 
date  Myojin,  apparently  a  local  deity. 


EOUTE  48. 


The  San-indo. 

the  coast  of  the  sea  of  japan 
from  mitaztj  westward  to  hagi : 
baths  of  togo-ike,  ascent  of 
daisen,  matsue,  kizuki  and  the 
great  shinto  temple  of  izumo, 

SAMBE-TAMA.  [HAMADA  ACROSS 
COUNTRY  TO  HIROSHIMA  ON  THE 
INLAND  SEA.] 

The  principal  object  of  interest 
on  this  route  is  the  Great  Temple 
of  Izumo.  Notwithstanding  the 
historic  and  religious  interest  of 
this  temple,  it  may  be  doubted 
whether  the  majority  of  travellers 
will  find  the  long  and  arduous  land 
journey  sufficiently  repaid.  An 
easier  way  of  reaching  it  is  by 
steamer  from  Shimonoseki  to  Sakai, 
but  this  also  has  its  discomforts. 
A  third  way  is  to  strike  across 
country  from  Okayama  or  Kura- 
shiki  on  the  Sanyo  Railway. 


348 


Eoute  48, — The  San-indo. 


Itinerary. 

MIYAZXJ  to  :—  Ri.  Cho.    M. 

Iwataki  2  28  6| 

Kuchiono    i  20  3f 

Mineyama 1  23  4 

Nonaka 3  23  9 

Kumihama 2  8  5^ 

TOYOOKA    3  7  71 

Yushima    2  31  7 

Takeno   1  26  4} 

Naraya   2  :^4  6^ 

Kazumi  2  2  5 

Yobe 2  7  5^ 

Hamisaka 3  18  8i 

Uratomi 4  18  11 

TOTTORI 4  32  12 

Takara^i    4  26  Hi 

Aoya    2  25  6i 

Tomari    1  34  4| 

Hashizu 1  31  4^ 

Kurayoshi 2  16  6 

Yura   2  25  6^ 

Akazaki 2  23  6^ 

Shimoichi  2  5  5^^ 

Mikuriya    1  29  4^ 

Yodoe 2  7  5^ 

YONAGO  2  17  6 

Yasuki    2  31  7 

Arashima   1  13  3|r 

Kajiya     1  10  3 

MATSUE  2  29  6f 

Anamichi   4  31  llf 

Naoe    2  9  5i 

Imaichi  1  26  4^ 

Oda 4  7  lOi 

Hane  3  7  7f 

Ota  2  2  5 

Omori 3  30  9i 

Fukumitsu 3  14  Si 

Asari  2  17  6 

Etsu    1  21  3f 

HAMADA 5  17  33} 

Misumi    5  14  13i 

Masuda  4  34  12 

liura    4  10  10^ 

Esaki  ..; 2  3  5 

Siisa     1  31  4h 

Uda 2  32  7 

Nago   3  5  7f 

HAGI.... 3  33  Oh 

Total  138  31  338} 


At  the  vill.  of  Iwataki  there  is  a 
choice  of  roads  to  Toyooka, — the 
new  jinrikisha  road  (shinddj,  and 
a  shorter  way  for  the  pedestrian 
over  Myoken-zan  to  Kuchiono. 
This  latter  alternative  is  recom- 
mended, on  account  of  the  beautiful 
panorama  which  it  affords  of  the 
pine-clad  peninsula  of  Ama-no- 
Hashidate,  described  on  p.  347. 
Luggage  should  be  sent  by  the  . 
new  road  to  meet  the  traveller  at 
Kuchiono,  between  which  place  and 

Kiimihaiiia  (Inns,  Yoshizawa, 
Taniguchi)  the  Hijiyama-toge  is 
crossed,  commanding  a  fine  pros- 
pect of  the  mountains  of  Tajima 
and  the  valley  of  the  Sanogawa. 
Similarly  beautiful  is  the  descent, 
after  passing  the  boundary  line  of 
the  provinces  of.  Tango  and  Ta- 
jima, to  the  town  of 

Toyooka  (Inns,  Miki-ya,  Oba-hei). 
Between  here  and  Yushima  there 
is  a  curious  cave  called  Gemmudd. 

Yushima  (Inns,  Yuto-ya,  Ita-ya), 
possesses  hot-springs.  Here  also 
boxes  are  manufactured  out  of 
wheat-stalks  and  mulberry  wood 
From  Yushima  the  road  leads  for 
some  fifty  dreary  miles  along  the 
coast  to  Tottori. 

[There  is  an  alternative  path 
further  inland  leading  over  the 
the  Kama-toge  and  other  steep 
passes — more  picturesque,  but 
not  practicable  for  jinriki- 
shas.  It  goes  through  the  vill. 
of  Ylimiira  (Inns,  Tomi-ya, 
Yane-ya),  locally  famed  for  its 
hot  sulphur  springs.] 

Tottori  (Inns,  Kozeni-ya,  Ko- 
me-ya),  now  the  capital  of  the 
prefecture  of  the  same  name  and 
also  of  the  province  of  Inaba,  was 
formerly  the  seat  of  Matsudaira 
Hoki-no-Kami.  Its  chief  indus- 
tries are  cotton  and  silk,  but 
its  prosperity  has  considerably 
declined  since  the  fall  of  feuda- 
lism. From  Tottori  the  road  skirts 
some  pretty  lagoons  encircled  by 
pine-clad  hillocks  to  Tomari.    The 


Togo-ike,     Ascent  of  Daisen.     Matsue, 


849 


"traveller  is,  however,  advised  to 
make  a  detour  of  1  ri  30  chb  to  an- 
other lagoon  called 

Tog'O-ike,  perhaps  the  pleasant- 
est  spot  on  this  coast  at  which  to 
make  a  lengthened  halt.    Not  only 
are  tliere  excellent  inns,  the  Yoyo- 
k-wan  and  Unryu-tei,  but  also  good 
natural  hot  baths^  boating,  and  fish- 
ing.    The  springs,  in  their  present 
position     date    only     from     1882. 
Formerly     hot     water     used    to 
issue     from  the    hillside;    but    a 
flood  altered  the  configuration  of 
tlie    soil,  sweeping  away  the  old 
springs  and  causing  new  ones  to 
gusli  out  in  their  stead.     One  rises 
in  the  middle  of  the  lake,  and  kills 
all  the  fish  that  approach  it.     The 
pathway  skirts  the  lake,  leading 
back  to  the  main  road  at  Tajiri,  l| 
ri   from  Togo.     Soon  the  Amano- 
gawa    is    crossed,    and    the    first 
glimpse  of  Daisen  obtained.    The 
road  onwards  through 

Akazalci  {Inn,  Yamame-ya)  is 
dull  until  reaching  Mikuriya,  where 
a  path  diverges  1.  to  Daisen,  the 
main  road  continuing  along  the 
coast  to  Yonago. 

[Daisen,  or  Oyama,  is  6,650  ft. 
high,  and  is  the  loftiest  as 
well  as  the  most  sacred 
mountain  in  the  San-indo. 
Here  dwel^  the  great  Shin- 
to god,  Onamuj  i  -  no  -  Miko  - 
to.  Founded  in  A.D.  718,  the 
monastery  owes  its  lasting 
■celebrity  to  the  seventh  abbot, 
Jikaku  Daishi,  who  is  said  to 
have  landed  here  on  his  return 
from  China,  whither  he  had 
gone  to  study  esoteric  mys- 
teries. It  attained  its  greatest 
prosperity  in  the  14th  century, 
at  about  the  lime  when  the 
hapless  Emperor  Go-Daigo  was 
exiled  to  the  Oki  Islands. 
There  were  then  no  less  than 
250  temples  in  all  on  the 
mountain.  During  the  Toku- 
gawa  regime,  when  the  centre 
of  civilisation  had  shifted  to 


Eastern  Japan,  these  had  de- 
creased to  40,  and  now  little 
remains  but  moss-covered 
ruins  and  a  few  monks  in 
abject  poverty.  The  latter  eke 
out  a  hvelihood  by  letting 
rooms  to  pilgrims,  to  whom, 
however,  their  creed  forbids 
their  offering  a  more  generous 
diet  than  potatoes  and  other 
scanty  vegetables.  The  tem- 
ples are  situated  half-way  up 
the  mountain  side;  the  way 
is  execrable,  but  the  view 
from  the  top  extensive.  The 
chief  features  are  the  Oki 
islands  in  the  offing,  Sambe- 
yama  on  the  borders  of  Izu- 
mo  and  Iwami  to  the  W.,  and 
Mikuni-yama  and  the  moun- 
tains of  Tajima  and  Tamba  to 
the  E.  It  is  best  to  descend 
from  Daisen  to  Kuruma  Omn- 
ra,  1  ri  from  Yonago.] 

Tonago  (Inns,  Komego,  Yuwasa) 
is  the  largest  town  in  the  province 
of  Hoki.  It  is  a  busy  place 
in  constant  communication  with 
Matsue.  The  distance  to  Matsue 
by  road  is  over  8  ri ;  by  water  only 
4  ri.  The  latter  way  is  to  be  pre- 
ferred, on  account  of  the  pretty 
scenery  of  the  Naka-umi  and  Shin- 
jiko  lagoons.  Yonago  is  also  the 
port  of  embarkation  for  the'  Oki 
Islands,  which  lie  some  40  m.  to  the 
northward. 

Matsne  (Inns,  Omoya,  Ueda),  the 
most  important  town  in  the  San- 
indo,  is  noted  for  its  agates  and 
crystals  and  for  the  manufacture 
of  paper.  Formerly  the  seat  of 
Matsudaira  Dewa-no-Kami,  the  re- 
mains of  whose  castle  stand  on  a 
height  in  its  midst,  Matsue  is  & 
clean  and  prosperous  city,  splendid- 
ly situated  on  the  borders  of  the 
Shinjiko  lagoon  surrounded  by 
lesser  hills,  beyond  which  rise  the 
blue  silhouettes  of  distant  moun- 
tain ranges  with  Daisen  towering 
high  above  all.  The  sea-port  of 
Matsue  is  Sakai^  whence  there  is 


850 


Eoute  48, — TJie  San-indo, 


general  steam  communication  np 
and  down  the  coast. 

In  order  to  visit  the  great 
Shinto  Temple  of  Izumo  at  Kizuki, 
the  traveller  should  abandon  the 
highway,  and  take  steamer  to 
Hiraia  near  the  W.  end  of  the 
lagoon,  whence  the  journey  is 
made  by  jinrikisha  in  3  to  4  hrs., 
the  whole  distance  being  10  a  '**»  or 
25i  miles.  Sambe-yama  looms  up  in 
front.  _ 

Kizoki  (Inns,  Inaba-ya,  Oshima- 
j&),  a  quaint  little  town  at  the 
base  of  Tabiishi-yama,  is  famed 
throughout  the  length  and  breadth 
of  Japan  for  the  Great  Temple  of 
Iznmo  (Izumo  O-yashiro),  which  is 
dedicated  to  the  god  Opamuji  and 
disputes  with  Ise  the  honour  of 
being  the  most  ancient  and 
Tcnerable  shrine  of  the  Shinto 
religion. 

The  province  of  Izumo,  and  more  or  less 
the  whole  country  eastward  to  Tajima  and 
T^ngo,  together  with  the  Oki  Islands, 
occupy  a  prominent  place  as  the  theatre  of 
many  of  the  tales  forming  the  old  Japa- 
nese mythology.  Indeed  that  mythology 
has  been  traced  by  students  to  tlu^e  cen- 
tres, of  which  one  is  KyUsha  with  its 
warlike  legends  of  Jimniu  Tenn5  and 
Jingd  K5g5,  ancestors  of  the  Imperial 
line,  another  is  Yamato  which  in  early 
days  seems  to  have  had  native  prinoes  of 
its  own,  and  the  third  is  Izumo,  wherein 
aire  located  strnnge  tales  of  gods,  and 
monsters,  and  speaking  animals,  and  caves 
through  which  entrance  to  Hades  is  ob- 
tained. Susa-no-o-no-Mikoto,  bom  from 
the  nose  of  the  creator  Izanagi  and  brother 
to  the  Sun-Goddess  Ama-terasu,  is  the 
hero  of  some  of  these  tales.  The  hero  of 
most  of  the  rest  is_his  descendant  Ona- 
muji,  also  called  Okuni-nushi,  that  is, 
*  the  Master  of  the  Great  Land,'  in  other 
words,  the  King  of  Izurao,  to  whom  later 
on  an  embassy  whs  sent  from  heaven, 
requesting  him  to  abdicate  the  sovereignty 
in  favour  of  the  Sun-Goddess's  descendant, 

Srogeoitor  of  the  earthly  Mikados.  To  this 
e  consented,  on  condition  of  having  a  tem- 
ple built  for  his  reception  and  worship.  Bo 
they  built  him  a  grand  shrine  on  the  shore 
of  the  land  of  Izumo,  *  making  stout  the 
temple  pillars  on  the  nethermost  rock- 
bottom,  and  making  high  the  cross-beams 
to  the  plain  of  high  heaven,'— and  there  he 
is  worshipped  to  this  day,  the  very  name 
of  Kizuki  preserving  to  the  faithful  the 
recollection  of  the  pestles  {kine)  with  which 
the  soil  was  beaten  {jaukn)  to  render  the 
foundations  firm  and  everlasting. 


The  buildings,  which  are  in  the 
unomamented  style  of  pure  Shinto, 
impress  the  beholder  by  their  great 
size  and  solidity  and  the  majesty 
of   the  approaches  under  succes- 
sions of  colossal  torii.  The  services 
are  conducted  by  priests  gorgeously 
arrayed    in     white     and    purple 
robes    with  gold    figuring.      The 
chief  priest,  who  is  supposed  to  be 
the  eighty-second  descendant  in  a 
direct  line  from  the  god  Susa-no-o, 
used  to  be  styled  ITd-gami — ^that  is» 
a  god  upon  earth.      The  temple 
possesses    many    curiosities     and 
valuable  documents.      Here,    too, 
may  be  seen  the  ancient  fire-drill, 
which,  though  but  a  simple  board 
with  holes  wherein  a  rapidly  revol- 
ving stick  kindles  sparks,  is  still 
preserved  as  the  only  lawful  means 
of  producing  the  sacred  fire.  There 
are  nineteen    other    shrines,    not 
consecrated  to  any  deities  in  par- 
ticular,  but  in  which  all  the  Shinto 
gods  and  goddesses  are  supposed  to 
assemble    during    the    month    of 
October.    For  this  reason  October 
is,  in  Izumo  alone,  called  Kami-^rU 
xvki, '  the  month  with  gods';  where- 
as, in  the  classical  parlance  of  the 
rest  of  Japan,  it  is  Kami-na-zuJei, 
*  the  month  without  gods,'  because 
all  the  other  shrines  of  the  Empire 
are  supposed  to  be  then  abandoned 
by  their  tutelary  deities.  On  the  sea- 
shore is  a  much  smaller  temple — 
the  scene,  so  it  is  said,  of  the  abdica- 
tion of  the  sovereignty  of  Izumo 
by  the  'great  god  Onamuji.    From 
200,000  to  250,000  pilgrims  visit  the 
Q-reat  Shrine  yearly.    All  day  long 
the  sound  of  the  clapping  of  hands, 
to  call  the  attention  of  the  god,  is 
unbroken    like    the   sound   of   a 
cataract. 

Owing  to  the  ^^prominent  posi- 
tion of  Izumo  in  mythology  and 
legend,  many  Shinto  shrines,  be- 
sides_  that  dedicated  to  the  great 
god  Onamuji  are  found  scattered 
about  the  province.  Such  are 
Kumano  Jinja,  5  H  S.  of  Matsue,  de> 
dicated  to  Susa-no-o ;  Mio  Jinja,  8- 


The  Great  Temple  of  Izumo, 


S5l 


T%  N.E.  of  Mat  sue,  dedicated  to 
Himko,  the  first  child  of  the  crea- 
'fcor  and  creatress  Izanagi  and  Iza- 
nami ;  and  Yaegaki  Jinja,  only  1  ri  S. 
of  Matsue,  in  the  mountain  village 
of  Oba.  The  deity  there  enshrined, 
'wife  of  Susa-no-o,  is  believed  to  be 
she  who  decides  the  lot  of  mar- 
riage for  mortals ;  and  young  men 
desiring  good  wives  and  young  girls 
wishing  for  good  husbands  visit 
Oba  to  make  their  petitions  to  the 
goddess. 

The  story  of  Susa-no-o,  of  his  wife 
Inada-hime,  and  of  the  palace  with  an 
eight-fold  fence  {i/a-e-gaki,  whence  the 
temple's  name)  which  he  built  for  her 
reception,  is  thus  narrated  in  the  Koj'i- 
Hi  — 

After  having  Ijeen  expelled  from 
beaven,  Susa-no-o  descended  to  a  place 
called  Torikami  at  the  head-waters  of  the 
River  Hi  in  the  land  of  Izumo.  At  this 
time  some  chopsticks  came  floating  down 
the  stream.  So  Susa-no-o,  thinking  that 
there  must  be  people  at  the  head-waters 
of  the  river,  went  up  it  in  quest  of  them, 
"when  he  came  upon  an  old  man  and  an 
old  woman,  two  of  them,  who  had  a  young 
girl  between  them  and  were  weeping. 
Then,  he  deigned  to  ask,  *  Who  are  ye  P  * 
So  the  old  man  replied,  saying,  '  I  am  an 

•  earthly  deity,  son  of  the  Great  Grod  of 

•  Mountains.    I  am  called  by  the  name  of 

•  Ashi-nazuchi,  my  wife  is  called  by  the 

•  name  of  Te-nazuchi,  and  my  daughter 

•  is  called  by  the  name  of  Inada-hime.' 
Again,  he  asked,  *  What  is  the  cause  of 
your  crying  ?  *  The  old  man  answered, 
saying,  'I  had  originally  eight  young 
girls  as  daughters ;  but  an  eight-forked 
serpent  has  come  every  year  and  devoured 
one,  and  now  is  its  time  to  come,  where- 
fore we   weep.*      Then   he   asked   him, 

•  What  is  the  serpent  like  ? '  The  old  man 
answered,  saying,  *  Its  eyes  are  like  the 
winter  cherry.  It  has  one  body,  with 
eight  heads  and  eight  tails.  Moreover, 
on  its  body  grows  moss,  and  also  chamoecy- 
paris  and  cryptomeria  trees.  Its  length 
extends  over  eight  vallcj'^s  and  eight  hills ; 
and  if  one  looks  at  its  belly,  it  is  all  con- 
stantly bloody  and  inflamed.'  Then 
Susa-no-o  said  to  the  old  man,  *  If  this  he 
thy  daughter,  wilt  thou  give  her  to  me  ? ' 
He  replied,  saying,  *  With  reverence,  but  I 
know  not  thine  august  name.'  Then 
Susa-no-o  replied,  saying,  *I  am  elder 
brother  to  the  Groddess  of  the  Sun,  and 
have  just  descended  from  Heaven.'  Then 
the  old  man  and  his  wife  said, .'  If  that  be 
so,  we  will  reverently  offer  her  to  thee.* 
So  Susa-no-o,  at  once  taking  and  chang- 
ing the  young  girl  into  a  multitudinous 
and  close-toothed  comb  which  he  stuck 
into  his  top-knot,  said  to  the  old  man  and 


his  wife,*  Do  you  distil  some  sahSf  refining 
it  eight  times  ;  also  make  a  fence  round 
about ;  in  that  fence  make  eight  gates ;  at 
each  gate  tie  together  eight  platforms  ;  on 
each  platform  put  a  vat,  and  into  each 
vat  pour  the  sake  refined  eight  times, 
and  wait.'  So  ^s  they  waited  after 
having  thus  prepared  everything  in 
accordance  with  his  bidding,  the  eight- 
forked  serpent  came  truly,  as  the  old 
man  had  said,  and  immediately  dipped 
a  head  into  each  vat  and  drank  the  mke. 
Thereupon  it  was  intoxicated  with  drink- 
ing, and  all  the  heads  lay  down  and  slept. 
Then  8usa-no-o  drew  the  great  sabre  that 
was  girded  on  him,  and  cut  the  serpent  in 
pieces,  so  that  the  river  Hi  flowed  on 
changed  into  a  river  of  blood.  There- 
upon Susa-no-o  sought  in  the  land  of 
Izumo  for  a  place  where  he  might  build 
a  palace.  Then  he  arrived  at  a  place  called 
Suga,  and  in  that  place  he  built  a  palace 
to  dwell  in.  When  he  built  the  palace, 
clouds  rose  up  thence,  whereupon  he  com- 
posed a  song  which  said 

'  Eight  clouds  arise. 

*  The  eightfold  fence  of  Izumo 

*  Makes  an  eightfold  fence 

*  For  the  spouses  to  retire  within. 
•Oh !  that  eightfold  fence !  * 

So  far  this  ancient  tale,  as  given  in  the 
Kojiki.  The  number  eight,  so  often  men- 
tioned in  it,  is  the  Japanese  mystic  num- 
ber. The  concluding  little  poem  is  venerat- 
ed by  the  Japanese  as  the  earliest  effort  of 
the  native  muse.  The  tale  still  lives,  not 
only  in  the  pages  of  the  Kojiki^  but  in  the 
hearts  of  the  simple  Izumo  folk.  Almost 
eyery  spot  in  hill  or  dale  has  some  shrine 
commemoi-ating  an  act  or  tracing  the 
footsteps  of  Susa-no-o,  of  the  maiden  his 
first  love,  or  of  her  parents.  Eveiy  place 
where  the  serpent  can  possibly  be  con- 
ceived to  have  passed  still  holds  some 
legend  concerning  it. " 

A  pretty  4  ri  excursion  from 
Kizuki  is  to  the  banks  of  the  Kobe- 
gawa,  which,  for  the  space  of 
nearly  a  mile,  exhibits  charmingly 
fantastic  rock  scenery.  The  best 
plan  is  to  take  a  boat  down  th^ 
river.  A  second,  longer  and  very 
much  rougher,  expedition  is  up 
Sainbe-yama,  the  highest  mountain 
in  all  this  country-side,  Daisen 
only  excepted.  The  view  from  th& 
top  over  the  sea  of  Japan  and 
multitudinous  mountain  ranges  is 
very  fine.  Other  excursions  are  to 
Ichibata-yama,  a  celebrated  resort 
for  persons  suffering  from  diseases 
of  the  eyes,  who  go  there  to  be 
cured  by  the  divine  power  of  the 
Buddhist  "^  god    Yakushi    Nyorai ; 


S52 


Roide  49, — The  Island  of  Aivaji, 


and  to  Harmmura  which  possesses 
delightful  hot-springs,  whose  waters 
are  led  into  every  house  and  are 
equally  good  for  drinking  and  for 
bathing  in. 

The  main  road  leads  right  along 
the  coast  to  Hamada  in  the  pro- 
vince of  Iwami,  and  thence  to 
Hagi,  the  capital  of  the  province 
of  Nagato  (Choshu);  but  the 
scenery  is  hardly  such  as  to  com- 
pensate for  the  roughness  of  the 
way,  except  in  the  eyes  of  those  who 
wish  above  all  things  to  traverse 
unbeaten  tracks.  Both  Hamada 
and  Hagi  have  steam  connection 
with  Shimonoseki,  and  also  with 
places  on  the  W.  coast. 

Hamadii  {Innsy  Dogu-ya,  Hama- 
oka)  is  chiefly  known  on  account 
of  the  terrible  earthquake  which 
half  wrecked  it  in  1872,  and  in 
which  over  2,000_  persons  perished. 

Hagi  {Inrit  Osaka-ya)  was  in 
early  feudal  times  the  residence  of 
the  great  Mori  family,  the  Daimyos 
of  Choshii,  before  their  removal  to 
the  town  of  Yamaguchi,  12  ri  fur- 
ther to  the  south. 

[There  is  a  cross-country  road 
from  Hamada  to  Hiroshima  on 
the  Inland  Sea,  fi  distance  of 
approximately  30  ri,   or  say, 

3  days'  journey.  The  first 
part  is  very  rough,  over  steep 
hills  and  with  scant  accom- 
modation; but  jinrikishas  can 
be  taken  on  portions  of  the 
road.  From  Mizaka,  which  is 
on  the  boundary  of  the  pro- 
vinces of  Iwami  and  Aki,  and 
where  is  also  the  water-shed 
between  the  Sea  of  Japan  and 
the  Inland  Sea,  it  is  down -hill 
almost  all  the  way  for  over  12 
ri  to   Kobe,   whence  a  run  of 

4  ri  on  the  flat  takes  one  into 
the  suburbs  of  Hiroshima.] 


EOUTE  49. 

The  Island  op  Awajt. 

The  Island  of  Awaji,  situated  a,± 
the  eastern  entrance  of  the  Inland 
Sea,  can  be  easily  reached  by  small 
native  steamer  from  Kobe  (Hyogo) 
in  2  hrs.  to  Kariya,  which  is  the 
nearest  port  touched  at.  The  steam- 
ers, after  calling  at  Kariya,  con- 
tinue on  to  Shizuki,  40  min.,.  and. 
to  Sumoto,  the  capital,  40  min. 
Awaji  may  also  be  reached  by 
sailing  or  rowing-boat  from  AkasM 
or  Maiko  near  Kobe,  the  distance 
across  the  strait  at  its  narrowest 
part  being  only  28  cho,  and  the 
passage  being  one  which  is  con- 
stantly made. 

The  chief  distances  on  the  island 
are  as  follows : — 

East  Coast—  Si.  Che.  M. 

Kariya  to  Shizuki 3    10    8 

Shizuki  to  Sumoto 3    13    8i 

Sumoto  to  Yura 2    17    6 

Southern  Inland  Road — 

Sumoto  to  Hirota 1    29    4^ 

Hirota  to  Fukura 3    28    9i 

(Or  straight  across  from 

Shizuki     to     Fukura, 

without    going   round 
'    by  Sumoto) 4    —    9f 

Western  Inland  Road — 

Fukura  to  Koenami ...  2    10    5i 
Koenami  to    Minami- 

dani 3    22    8f 

Minami-dani  to  Grunge  3    —    7i 
(Or  from  Fukura  to    Gunge    vii 
Minato  and  Kawakami,  about  1 
ri  less.) 

West  Coast — 

Gunge  to  Tsukue  3    21    8f 

Tsukue  to  Iwaya   2    29    6f 

Iwayaf  to  Kariya 2    19    6J 


t  Properly  speaking,  Iwaya  is  at  the 
Nortli-Easterii  extremity  of  the  island. 
But  thjs  ilivision  of  the  roads  is  practically 
the  more  convenient. 


East  Coast  from  Kariya  to  Sumoto. 


85& 


DiBTAKGES  BY   SeA  FBOM  AwAJI  TO 

THE  Mainland. 

Iwaya  to  Akashi  in  Ha-  ^i-  Cho.  3f. 

rima 1    23    4 

TuratoKadainKishu...  2  30  7 
^Fukura  to  Muki  in  Awa 

(Islandof  Shikoku)  ...  3      2    7 J 

A  trip  to  Awaji  is  much  to  be 
Teconunended  during  the  spring 
and  autumn  or  in  mild  winter 
weather,  the  climate  being  mode- 
rately warm,  the  scenery  pictur- 
esque, and  the  roads  fairly  good. 
Jinrikishas  can  be  obtained  al- 
most everywhere.  The  best  inns 
are  those  at  Sumoto  (Nabeto 
and  Kuwaji),Fukura(Izuman),and 
Gunge  (Shinkuma).  There  is  also 
fair  accommodation  at  Yura  (Ta- 
naka-ya)  and  at  Iwaya.  The  other 
inns  are  rather  poor,  but  every 
village  offers  accommodation  of 
some  sort.  The  tourist  who  wishes 
to  explore  the  island  thoroughly, 
is  recommended  to  land  at  Kariya, 
and  make  the  round  in  the  order 
described  below.  This  will  take 
3  or  4  days,  according  as  steamers, 
hours,  weather,  «fec.,  may  fit  in. 
Persons  pressed  for  time  can  see 
the  prettiest  part  of  the  scenery, 
which  lies  on  the  E.  coast,  by 
taking  the  steamer  from  Kobe 
to  Sumoto,  and  returning  next 
looming. 

Sixtory. — The  island  of  Awaji  is  men- 
tioned in  the  earliest  Japanese  legends  as 
the  first  rasult  of  the  marriage  of  the 
creator  and  creatress,  Izanagi  and  Iza- 
nami,  when  they  set  about  giving  birth  to 
the  various  islands  of  the  Japanese  archi- 
pelago. It  is  also  related  that  in  very 
ancient  times  the  water  for  the  Imperial 
Household  was  brought  over  from  Awaji 
in  boats ;  and  the  beauties  of  the  harbour 
of  Yura  have  been  sung  by  poets  from 
time  immemorial.  Coming  down  to  his- 
torical days,  the  unfortunate  Emperor 
Junnin  was  exiled  here  in  A.D,  764, 
having  been  deposed  by  his  predecessor, 
the  Empress  Koken,  a  sort  of  Japanese 
Messalina,  who  added  to  her  other  ez- 
oesses  a  wild  desire  for  the  Imperial 
power  which  was  not  properly  hers,  and 
who,  having  once  abdicated  in  favour  of 
Junnin,  wished  to  re-ascend  the  throne. 
Junnin  endeavoured  to  escape  from  Awaji, 
bat  died  there  in  the  following  year,  pro- 


bably a  victim  to  assassination.  During 
the  Middle  Ages,  the  lordship  of  the 
island  and  of  different  portions  of  it 
passed  successively  into  the  hands  of 
several  feudal  chiefs,  and  finally  of  the 
Hachisukaf  amUy  and  of  their  dependants, 
the  Inada.  The  whole  island  now  forms 
part  of  the  Prefecture  of  HyOgo.  The 
castle  of  Sumoto,  which  place  has  long 
been  considered  the  capital,  was  con- 
structed in  the  middle  of  the  16th  century 
by  Ataka  Fuyuyasu,  a  scion  of  the  Miyo- 
shi  family. 

The  scene  as  the  steamer  ap- 
proaches Kariya  is  most  pictur- 
esque,— delightful  little  coves  and 
peaceful  nooks,  pine-trees  on  the 
strand,  small  valleys  stretching  up 
towards  verdure-clad  hills,  and  in 
the  distance  the  hazy  outline  of 
Senzan,  the  highest  mountain  on 
the  island,  and  of  the  high  land 
beyond.  This  style  of  scenery, 
ever  varied  in  its  details,  continues 
all  along  the  E.  coast  to  Sumoto 
and  Yura;  and  jinrikishas  bowl 
rapidly  over  the  well-kept 
road.  It  will  generally  be  found 
best  to  spend  the  first  night  at 
Sumoto.  Those  having  another 
day  to  spare  may  turn  off  inland 
shortly  after  leaving  Shizuki,  and 
go  to  Sumoto  via  the  top  of  Sen- 
zan. Jinrikishas  can  be  engaged 
as  far  as  Futatsu-ishi,  1  ri  24  cho ; 
but  it  will  probably  be  more 
satisfactory  to  walk  the  whole  way, 
taking  some  6  hours.  The  country 
is  everywhere  pretty.  The  actual 
ascent  is  about  1  ri  in  length.  Half- 
way up  is  the  temple  of  Koshinji, 
which  commands  a  fine  view  in  the 
direction  of  Kobe.  Thence  to  the 
top  the  path  lies  through  a  wood 
of  cherry-trees,  oaks,  firs,  etc., 
some  of  the  firs  presenting  a  very 
curious  appearance,  the  soil  having 
worn  away  from  their  roots,  leav- 
ing the  latter  poised  high  above 
the  level  of  the  surrounding- 
ground.  From  the  summit  of  Sen- 
zan itself  there  is  but  little  view, 
owing  to  the  trees  which  crown 
the  mountain,  and  which  from  most 
parts  of  the  island  give  it  a 
peculiar  square-topped  appearance. 


S64: 


Route  49. — The  Island  of  Awaji. 


The  temple  on  the  summit  is  called 
Senk5ji.  It  has  a  fine  new  solid 
gate  and  belfry ;  but  the  hondo,  or 
main  edifice,  and  the  three-storied 
pagodh.  are  old. 

It«  foundation  is  said  to  date  from  A.D. 
901,  when  a  hunter  named  Chtida  having 
shot  at  and  hit  a  stag  (another  versiou 
says  a  boar),  discovered  that  it  was  in 
reality  an  imape  of  the  merciful  divinity 
Kwannou  that  he  had  thus  sacrilegiously 
injured.  He  thereupon  assumed  the  garb 
of  a  Buddhist  monk  and  the  Buddhist 
name  of  Jakunin,  and  raised  a  shiine  to 
Kwannon  on  the  spot  where  the  incident 
.had  occurred. 

On  the  way  down  on  the  side 
towards  Snnioto,  that  town  comes 
in  sight  to  the  1.  with  Kishu  and 
the  islets  of  the  Kii  Channel  be- 
yond it,  while  to  the  r.  are  the 
mountains  of  Awa  in  Shikoku. 
From  the  base  of  Senzan  to  the 
Aiya  waterfall,  and  thence  to 
Sumoto,  the  path  leads  mostly 
across  a  fertile  plain.  Those  not 
desirous  of  visiting  the  fall,  which, 
though  a  pretty  place  for  a  picnic, 
is  by  no  means  extraordinary,  can 
:go  straight  to  Sumoto  from  the 
base  of  Senzan,  the  distance  being 
stated  to  be  1  ri  14  cho. 

The  former  castle  of  Sumoto  no 
longer  exists,  and  in  its  grounds  a 
court-house  and  a  prison  have  been 
erected.  The  production  for  which 
Sumoto  is  chiefly  noted  is  a  sort  of 
marmalade  made  out  of  an  excellent 
variety  of  orange  resembling  the 
Seville  orange^  and  called  Naruto- 
mikan.  It  is  sold  in  boxes  with 
another  pleasant  sweetmeat  com- 
posed of  acorns,  cinnamon,  and 
sugar;  and  the  two  sweetmeats 
together  are  known  by  the  name 
of  uhi-liashi,  or.  *  floating  bridge,' 
in  allusion  to  the  legend  of  Izanagi 
and  Izanami  mentioned  below. 
Another  preserve  special  to  Sumoto 
is  the  hiwa-no-ne,  or  *  sound  of  the 
lute,'  which  is  made  of  plums. 
Foreigners  will  perhaps  be  inclined 
to  think  that  it  stands  to  the  palate 
in  somewhat  the  same  relation  as 
Japanese  music  does  to  the  ear. 
A   spare   day   at    Sumoto   might 


pleasurably  be  devoted  to  the 
ascent  of  KashiiDara-yamay  the 
highest  point  of  the  S.  range  ot 
the  island,  commanding  a  very  fine 
view  inland  all  over  the  S.  plains 
of  Awaji,  its  distant  northern  hills» 
the  sea,  the  coast  of  Kishu,  •  Nu- 
shima  (the  odd  islet  off  Awaji), 
and  some  islets  off  the  coast  of 
Shikoku.  To  obtain  this  view  it 
is  necessary  to  go  up  through  the 
wood  behind  the  temple.  From 
Kashiwara-yama  one  may  descend 
to  Yiira,  whence  there  is  a  2  ri 
ride  or  walk  along  a  beautiful 
shore.  A  huge  fort  intended  to 
command  the  Kii  Channel  is  in 
process  of  erection  at  Yura. 

The  interest  on  the  Southern  In- 
land Eoad  leading  from  Sumoto  to 
Fukura  is  mainly  archseologicaL 
There  is  a  curious  mound  called 
Onogoro-jima,  i.e.,  the  Island  of  Ono- 
goro,  at  a  short  distance  from  the 
village  of  Yagi  or  Yogi,  where 
the  path  to  it'  diverges  to  the  r, 
from  the  main  road,  and  soon 
leads  to  a  dry  river-bed  where  it  is 
necessary  to  alight  from  the  jin- 
rikishas. 

A  very  early  Japanese  tradition  pre- 
served in  the  Kojiki,  tells  us  that  Izanagi 
and  Izanami,  when  they  were  about 
to  set  to  work  to  produce  the  Japanese 
archipelago,  '  stood  upon  the  Floating 
Bridge  of  Heaven,  pushed  down  the 
jewelled  spear  and  stirred  with  it,  where- 
upon, when  they  had  stirred  the  Inine 
till  it  went  curdle-curdle,  and  drew  the 
spear  up,  the  brine  that  dripped  down 
from  the  end  of  the  spear  was  piled  up 
and  became  an  island.  This  is  the  Islana 
of  Onogoro.* 

Several  islets  on  the  coast  of 
Awaji  contend  for  the.  honour  of 
being  this  first-fruit  of  creation, 
and  this  inland  claimant  may  well, 
by  the  ignorant  country-people,  be 
supposed  to  have  been  once  itself 
an  island,  standing  up  as  it  does 
prominently  from  the  surrounding 
rice-field  flats.  In  reality  there 
would  seem  to  be  little  doubt  as  to 
its  being  the  funeral  mound  of 
some  very  ancient  prince,  all 
memory  of  whom  has  passed  away. 


OnogorO'jima,     The  Potteries,     Nanito  Whirlpool.        855 


There  is  a  small  shrine  on  it  de- 
dicated to  Izanagi  and  Izanami, 
and  at  the  southern  end  of  it  a  stone 
called  the  sehirei-ishi  or  *  wagtail 
stone,'  with  reference  to  a  detail  of 
the  creation  legend  for  which  Vol. 
Ill,  Part  I,  Appendix,  pp.  69-70,  of 
the  *  Transactions  of  the  Asiatic  So- 
ciety *  may  be  consulted.  A  hole  has 
"been  scooped  out  on  the  W.  side  of 
the  mound  by  women  who  mix  frag- 
ments of  the  earth  with  water,  and 
drink  it  as  a  charm  to  ensure  easy 
delivery.  Almost  within  a  stone's 
throw  is  a  clump  of  reeds  called 
Ashi-wara-  koJcu. 

A»hi-tcara-no-kuni,  i.e.  the  Land  of  Rieed- 
Plains,  is  an  ancient  name  for  Japan.  But 
the  country-people,  mistaking  ashi^  *  a 
reed,'  for  aghi,  '  the  foot,'  have  invented  a 
story  to  the  effect  that  this  is  the  spot  on 
which  Izanami  first  set  foot  when  he 
came  down  to  earth. 

After  visiting  Onogoro-jima,  the 
jinrikishas  are  rejoined,  and  the 
hamlets  of  Oenami  and  Koenami 
passed  through.  The  latter  is 
marked  by  two  or  three  very  fine 
pine-trees.  The  pine-trees  of  the 
whole  island,  however,  are  those 
which  form  an  avenue  lining  the 
main  road  for  a  distance  of  50  cho 
just  at  this  part  of  the  journey. 
In  order  to  enjoy  the  sight  of 
them,  it  is  worth  while  turning 
into  the  main  road  as  soon  as  the 
avenue  is  seen  to  the  1. 

A  further  detour  to  the  1.  is 
needed  if  it  be  intended  to  visit 
the  vill.  of  Iganoy  where,  at  the 
establishments  of  two  families 
called  Mimpei  and  Sampei,  the 
potteries  for  which  Awaji  is  noted 
are  carried  on.  Strangers  easily 
gain  admittance. 

This  peculiar  ware  was  first  produced 
between  the  years  1830  and  184o  by  one' 
Kaja  Mimpei,  a  man  of  considerable  pri- 
vate means,  who  devoted  himself  to  the 
ceramic  art  out  of  pure  enthusiasm. 
Directing  his  efforts  at  first  to  reproduc- 
ing the  deep  green  and  straw  yellow 
glazes  of  China,  which  country  he  visited 
in  quest  of  information,  he  had  exhausted 
flkhnost  his  entire  resources  before  suc- 
cess came ;  and  even  then  the  public  was 
slow  to  recognise  the  merits  of  his  ware. 
Now,  howev^,  connoisseurs  greatly  prize 


genuine  old  pieces  by  Mimpei,  some  of 
which  combine  various  colours  so  as  to 
imitate  tortoise-shell,  while  others  have 
designs  incised  or  in  relief,  or  are  skil- 
fully decorated  with  gold  and  silver.  At 
the  present-day  the  quality  of  Awaji  ware 
has  greatly  deteriorated,  though  Sampei 
has  won  prizes  in  Australia  and  else- 
where. The  pieces  are  mostly  monochro- 
matic  and  intended  for  every-day  use. 

The  next  object  of  interest  on. 
the  road  is  the  Tumulus  of 
the  unfortunate  Emperor  Junnin, 
already  mentioned.  Being  202  Icem, 
in  length  and  72  in  breadth,  while 
the  whole  is  surrounded  by  a  moat 
and  covered  with  a  dense  grove 
fuU  of  singing-birds,  this  tumulus 
forms  a  very  prominent  object  in 
the  scene.  It  is  commonly  known 
as  Tenno  no  Mori,  that  is,  the  Em- 
peror's Grove.  That  of  Junnin's 
mother,  TaemaFujin,  lies  8  or  10 
cho  away  from  it  in  a  S.W.  direction. 

After  leaving  these  mounds,  a 
jinrikisha  ride  of  about  ^  hr.  brings 
us  to  the  little  sea-port  town  of 
Fuknra,  where  it  will  probably  be 
best  to  spend  the  second  night. 
The  lion  of  the  place  is  the  violent 
rush  of  water  through  the  Narvio 
Channel,  which  separates  the  is- 
lands of  Awaji  and  Shikoku  and 
connects  the  Inland  Sea  with  the 
Pacific  Oc^an.  It  is  a  truly  grand 
sight,  especially  at  spring-tides, 
when  no  junk  can  attempt  the 
passage ;  and  it  should  certainly 
not  be  missed.  Boats  are  furnished 
at  a  reasonable  charge  by  the  pro- 
prietor of  the  inn  at  Fukura ;  and 
the  expedition,  which  takes  from 
4  to  6  hours,  is  attended  by  no 
danger,  passengers  being  rowed 
or  sailed  out  under  the  shelter  of 
the  coast  to  within  easy  view  of  the 
strait,  and  being  able  to  view  the 
whole  panorama  either  from  the 
boat  or  from  some  rocks  on  which  it 
is  usual  to  land.  The  best  time  of 
aU  is  said  to  be  the  3rd  day  of  the 
3rd  moon,  old  style  (some  time  at 
the  end  of  March  or  in  the  first 
half  of  April),  when  the  people  of 
the  neighbouring  districts  on  both 
sides  of  the  channel  take  a  holiday 


856 


Eoute  49. — The  Island  of  Awaji. 


and  go  out  in  boats  to  see  the  rufih 
of  the  briny  torrent.  The  breadth 
of  the  channel  is  estimated  at  18 
€hd ;  bnt  some  rocks  in  the  middle 
divide  it  into  two  uneqnal  parts, 
called  respectively  0-naruto  and 
Ko^naruto,  i.e.,  the  Greater  and  the 
Ijesser  Naruto.  The  Greater  Na- 
ruto  being  on  the  Shikoku  side, 
that  side  probably  affords  an  even 
finer  sight  than  is  to  be  obtained 
from  Awaji.  Looking  from  the 
boat,  if  on  the  Awaji  side,  the 
province  of  Awa  in  the  Island  of 
Shikoku  is  seen  in  front;  to  the 
r.  of  it  stretches  the  long  line  of 
Shozushima,  well-known  for  its 
granite  quarries;  while  further 
r.,  in  the  extreme  distance,  are 
the  mountains  of  Harima  on  the 
mainland,  the  little  island  of 
Ejima  sticking  up  in  front  of  them 
like  a  cocked  hat.  The  rocks  on 
the  Awaji  side  are  tilted  up  at  a 
considerable  angle,  and  are  here 
and  there  lined  with  pine-trees 
which  give  them  an  appearance 
somewhat  resembling  that  of  a 
painting  in  the  Chinese  style.  For 
soft  winning  beauty,  however, 
neither  this  nor  any  part  of  the 
W.  Coast,  excepting  towards  the 
North  is  comparable  to  the  E. 
Coast  of  the  island.  On  the  way 
back,  the  boatman  may  suggest 
landing  at  Kemuri-shima  and  at 
Susaki,  the  two  islets  in  Fukura 
harbour;  but  it  is  hardly  worth 
while  to  do  sb.  Kemuri-shima  is 
the  high,  thickly  wooded  islet, 
Susaki  the  low  sandy  one.  At  the 
summit  of  the  former  is  an  in- 
significant shrine  dedicated  to 
Kwannon. 

On  leaving  Fukura  it  is  besi;  to 
take  jinrikisha  to  Minato,  a  dis- 
tance called  2i  ri  of  50  cho  each, 
but  more  probably  2^  ordinary  ri 
of  36  cho.  The  first  part  of  the 
road  leads  near  the  Mound  of  the 
Emperor  Junnin,  but  turns  off  to 
the  1.  skirting  the  W.  side  of  the 
Talley.    The  prettiest  part  of  the 


ride — for  jinrikishas  can  be  takexr 
— is  along  the  embankment   of   a 
small  river  flowing  some  feet  above^ 
the  level  of  the  surrounding  plain^ 
over  which  a  fine    view  is    com- 
manded,  with   Senzan   marked  by 
a  clump  of  trees  on  its  summit  and 
the  mountains  of  Harima  in    the 
extreme  distance.     The  village   of 
Minato  is  remarkable  for  its  salt 
factories,  and  for  a  temple  dedicated 
to    Kwannon   which    resembles    a 
small  fortified  castle.     Hence  it  is 
possible  to  proceed    either  under 
the  shadow  of  the  pine-trees  by  the 
beach   (locally  famous  under  the 
name    of    Kei    n©    Matsubara),    or 
else  to  strike  inland.    The  views 
are    of    the  coast    of  Harima,    of 
Shozushima,  and  of  the  mountains 
of  Awa  behind  Shozushima. 

The  village  of  Kawakanii  is  also 
known  as  Ten j  in,  from  the  name 
of  a  temple^ — formerly  a  very  fine 
one — which  it  contains.  There  is 
fair  accommodation  at  the  Tamaya 
inn,  where  the  third  night  should 
be  spent  if  it  is  too  late  to  push  on 
further.  On  the  way  hence  to 
Gunge,  it  may  be  worth  the  while 
of  those  who  wish  to  see  the  largest 
Shinto  temple  on  the  island  to 
turn  aside  a  few  cho  from  the  main 
road  to  visit  the  Ichi-no-miya,  as  it 
is  called,  in  the  vill.  of  Taga.  The 
Government  has  spent  money  on 
the  place,  and  renovated  the  build- 
ings in  the  style  of  *  Pure  Shinto.* 
The  deity  worshipped  is  Izanagi. 
The  third  ni^ht  will  probably  best 
be  spent  at  Gunge.  From  Gunge 
onwards,  the  whole  way  to  Iwaya 
and  Kariya,  the  road  leads  by  the 
sea.  Insignificant  at  first,  the 
view  gradually  gains  in  beauty. 
•The  path  mounts,  little  promon- 
tories stretch  out  into  the  sea,, 
pine-trees  extend  their  fantasti- 
cally contorted  shapes  toward  the 
waves,  to  the  left  lies  Shozushima,. 
and  ahead  and  to  the  r.  the  already 
often-mentioned  but  ever  varying 
outline  of  the  blue  mountains  of 
Harima^  and  in  the  faint  distance 


Route  50. — The  Inland  Sea, 


857 


the  snow-capped  Tamba  range. 
After  the  hamlet  of  Murotsn,  the 
screen  of  hills  forming  the  back- 
bone of  Awaji  itself  folds  back  a 
little  from  the  strand,  giving  the 
green  upland  glimpses  of  field  and 
valley  which  make  the  E.  side  of 
the  island  so  charming. 

From  Tsiikiie,  sailing  boats  are 
frequently  to  be  found  starting  for 
Akashi  on  the  mainland,  the  fare 
being  a  few  sen  per  head  in  a  boat 
calculated  to  hold  a  dozen  or  twenty 
people.  In  fine  weather  this  is  a 
very  pleasant  way  of  concluding 
the  journey,  the  passage  averaging 
a  couple  of  hours,  and  the  views 
being  delightful.  .  The  whole  hori- 
zon is  alive  with  the  white  sails  of 
junks  going  up  and  down  the 
Inland  Sea.  Those  to  whom  a  sea 
journey  is  pleasant  only  in  pro- 
portion to  its  shortness  will  do  best 
to  cross  to  Maiko-no-hama  from 
Matsuo,  a  hamlet  at  the  N.  extre- 
mity of  the  island,  not  far  from 
the  lighthouse. 

The  whole  expedition  thus  in- 
volves sleeping  three  nights  away 
from  Kobe.  It  might  be  shortened 
and  a  night  saved  by  taking  the 
steamer  direct  from  Kobe  to  Su- 
moto,  and  by  omitting  the  visit  to 
the  Naruto  whirlpool;  but  it 
would  be  a  great  pity  to  miss  the 
latter,  which  is  a  sight  unique  in 
Japan. 


I 


EOUTE  50. 

The  Inland  Sea  and  the  Chief 
Towns  on  or  near  its  Shores. 

1.         OPENER  AL       information.         2. 
MEANS   of  communication  :  THE 

santo  railway,  steamers.  3. 
voyage  down  the  inland  sea 
by  mail  steamer.  4.  northern 
shore  :  himeji,  okayama,  fuku- 
yama,  onomichi,  mihara,  kure, 
hiroshima,  miyajima,  iwakuni, 
yamaguchi,  toyoura,  shimono- 
seki.  5.  southern  shore  :  ma- 
t8uyama,  mitsu-ga-hama,  dogo, 
imaharu,  saijo,  tadotsu,  maru- 
game,  kompira  (  kotohira ), 
takamatsu. 

1. — General  Information. 

The  Inland  Sea  is  the  name 
given  to  the  water  space  lying 
between  the  Main  Island  on  the 
North  and  the  islands  of  Shikoku  ^ 
and  Kyushu  on  the  South.  It  com- 
municates with  the  open  sea  by  the 
Naruto  passage  and  Akashi  Strait 
on  the  East,  by  the  Bungo  Channel 
between  Shikoku  and  Kyushu,  and 
by  the  Strait  of  Shimonoseki  at 
the  Western  end.  It  is  about  240 
miles  long  from  Akashi  Strait  to 
Shimonoseki,  its  greatest  width 
opposite  the  Bungo  Channel  being 
about  40  m.,  while  it  narrows  to 
8  m.  where  the  province  of 
Bizen  approaches  that  of  Sanuki 
in  longitude  134°.  By  the  Japa- 
nese it  is  divided  into  five  open 
spaces  or  Nada,  which,  named  from 
East  to  West,  are  as  follows: 
Harima  Nada,  Bingo  Nada,  Mi- 
shima  Nada,  lyo  Nada,  and  Suwo 
Nada.  Harima  Nada  is  divided 
from  Bingo  Nada  by  an  archipelago 
of  islands,  rocks,  and  shoals,  through 
which  the  passage  for  ships  is  nar- 
rowed in  some  places  to  a  few 
hundred  yards.  Bingo  Nada  is 
divided  from  Mishima  Nada,  and 


858 


Route  50, — The  Inland  Sea. 


the  latter  from  lyo  Nada  in  the 
same  manner,  and  here  the  channel 
is  even  narrower,  notably  at  one 
place  where  there  is  only  just 
room  for  two  ships  to  pass  abreast. 
The  Inland  Sea  affords  the  most 
direct  route  from  Kobe  to  Naga- 
saki and  Shanghai.  For  vessels 
proceeding  anywhere  to  the  west- 
ward it  offers  a  smooth  water 
passage,  by  which  the  un- 
certain weather  and  stormy  seas 
of  the  outer  passage  may  be 
avoided ;  and  although  to  mariners 
the  intricacies  of  the  channels  may 
present  some  disadvantages,  for 
the  traveller  the  smoothness  of  the 
water  and  the  continuously  varying 
and  picturesque  scenery  are  an 
unfaiUng  source  of  pleasure  and 
comfort  throughout  its  entire 
length.  The  larger  islands  are 
mountainous ;  and  although  (differ- 
ing in  this  from  most  parts  of 
Japan)  they  lack  timber,  the 
varying  effect  of  light  and  shade 
gives  colour  to  the  background. 
The  smaller  islands  are  of  every 
conceivable  fantastic  shape,  some 
being  mere  rocks,  while  others  are 
of  considerable  height  and  size. 
Nearly  all  are  inhabited  by  a 
half-farming  half-fishing  popula- 
tion. The  shores  are  lined  with 
villages,  the  hillsides  laid  out  in 
fields,  and  the  waters  studded  with 
trading  junks  and  fishing-boats. 
Accor£ng  to  Japanese  accounts, 
the  total  number  of  islands  is  some 
thousands,  though  it  is  a  puzzle  to 
know  how  they  were  ever  counted. 
Another  puzzle  to  the  European 
visitor,  to  whom  the  Inland  Sea 
has  become  a  household  word,  is 
the  fact  that  the  Japanese  them- 
selves have  no  corresponding  name 
in  common  use.  The  term  Seio  no 
uchi  (lit.  'within  the  channels") 
is  a  mere  invention  of"  modern 
chart-makers,  intended  to  translate 
the  English  name.  Neither  have 
the  Japanese  poets  ever  raved  oyer 
this  lovely  portion  of  their  native 
country.  Only  Suma  and  Akashi  at 


its  eastern  end  seem  to  have 
arrested  their  attention.  All  the 
greater  reason  why  foreigners 
should  do  it  justice. 

2. — Means  op  Communication. 

A  line  of  railway  called  the  San- 
yo Railway  is  -  in  process  of  con- 
struction along  the  northern 
shore  of  the  Inland  Sea,  starting 
from  Kobe  and  passing  throngh 
Himeji,  Okayama,  Onomichi,  Hiro- 
shima, and  Iwakuni,  and  ending  at 
Shimonoseki.  It  is  intended  to 
connect  with  the  Kyushu  Kailway, 
which  starts  from  Moji  on  the 
opposite  side  of  the  straits  and  is 
ultimately  meant  to  lead  to  Naga- 
saki. Up  to  the  present  (June, 
1891)  only  the  following  portion  of 
the  Sanyo  line  has  been  opened 
to  traffic. 

Santo  Railway. 


Distance 
from 
Kobe. 

Names 

of 

Remarks. 

Stations. 

KOBE. 

1  m. 

HyOj?o. 

4i 

Suma   

) 

8 
12 
16 

Maiko  

>  See  p.  281. 

Akash-i 

Okubo. 

20 

Tsuchiyama. 

24i 

Kakogawa. 

29 

Amida. 

34 

HIMEJI. 

m 

AboshL 

u 

Tatsuno. 

47 

Naba. 

62 

Une. 

63^ 

Mitsuishi. 

68 

Yoshinaga. 

71i 

Wake. 

79^ 

Seto. 

84i 
89 

Nagaoka. 
OKAYAMA. 

93i 

Niwase. 

99 

Kurasbiki  

f   Present 
(.  terminus. 

^k^^    Vtf^^b    ^^  1^  A  ^^^L^  ^              VVVVVVVV'SV* 

Tamasbima  

Expected 
I  to  be  open- 
f  edinAug. 

1891. 

J 

Kamoerawa 

Kasaoka 

Fukuyama    

140 

(about) 

Matsunaga    

ONOMICHI 

C  Expected 

MIHARA 

\  tobeopen- 
Cedinl892. 

Sanyo  Ilailivay,     Steamer  Voyage, 


359. 


Even  when  the  line  is  completed, 
it  can  scarcely  become  a  favourite 
route;  for  much  of  the  country 
through  which  it  passes  is  bare 
and  uninteresting.  The  charms 
of  the  Inland  Sea  can  be  infinitely 
better  appreciated  from  shipboard. 
Those  whom  a  general  glance  at 
the  scenery  contents,  or  to  whom 
first-rate  accommodation  is  a  sine 
^ud  rum,  will  do  best  to  take  their 
passage  from  Kobe  to  Nagasaki  in 
one  of  the  mail  steamers.  The 
course  usually  taken  and  the 
chief  points  passed  are  described 
in  the  following  section.  Per- 
sons tolerant  of  less  good  accom- 
modation, and  desirous  to  do  the 
Inland  Sea  and  its  shores  more 
thoroughly,  have  innumerable 
small  coasting  steamers  at  their 
disposal.  It  is  impossible  to  give  a 
schedule  of  these,  as  not  only  do 
the  hours  of  sailing  and  the  ports 
of  call  vary  according  to  the  cargo 
offering,  but  the  companies  them- 
selves frequently  change.  At 
present  (1891)  the  Kobe  Domei 
Kisen  Gwaisha  is  the  largest  of 
these  companies,  sometimes  de- 
spatching as  many  as  fifteen 
steamers  daily.  Among  the  ports 
touched  at  are  Takamatsu,  Tadotsu, 
Imaharu,  Mitsu-ga-hama,  Tomotsu, 
Onomichi,  l^akehara,  Ondo,  Kure, 
Hiroshima,  Miyajima,  Iwakuni, 
Yanai,  Murozu,  Tokuyama,  Mita- 
jiri,  Shimonoseki,  Beppu.  Oita, 
Saganoseki,  etc.  etc.  The  s£eamers 
also  call  at  many  places  outside 
the  limits  of  the  Inland  Sea,  such 
as  Uwajima  and  Kochi  in  Shikoku ; 
Hagi,  Hamada,  Esaki,  and  Sakai  on 
the  Sea  of  Japan;  Hakata  and 
Kagoshima  in  Kyiishii ;  Iki,  Tsu- 
shima, and  Fusan.  The  starting- 
point  of  some  of  these  steamers  is 
Osaka,  but  all  call  at  Kobe.  Notices 
are  generally  only  issued  on  the 
day  of  sailing.  Punctuality  is  rarely 
observed,  and  all  the  arrange- 
ments are  so  peculiarly  Japanese 
that  only  those  whoiiave  had  some 
experience  of  the  country  and  its 


customs  are  advised  to  embark  on 
a  lengthy  4x)ur  by  this  means. 

3. — Voyage  down  the  Inland  Sea 
BY  Japan  Mail  Steamship  Com- 
pany's  Steamer. 

In  describing  the  steamer  route, 
our  remarks  will  be  confined  to  the 
points  which  are  immediate  to  the 
track. 

Soon  after  leaving  the  an- 
chorage at  Kobe,  Wada  Point  is 
rounded,  the  ship  is  steered  close 
along  the  land  for  Akashi  Strait, 
and  at  1  hourf  is  close  off  the  light- 
house on  the  1.,  with  the  town  of 
Akashi  on  the  r.  After  passing* 
through  the  straits,  the  track  edges 
a  lilt  e  to  the  south  to  clear  a 
dangerous  shoal  on  the  r.,  and 
crosses  the  Harima  Nada.  The 
ship  is  now  fairly  within  the  In- 
land Sea,  with  the  large  islands  of 
Awaji  and  Shikoku  on  the  1.  and 
the  first  group  of  lesser  islands 
ahead.  (For  description  of  Awaji, 
see  Koute  49;  for  Shikoku,  see 
Eoutes  51—53.) 

At  4  hrs.  she  enters  the  first  of 
the  intricate  passages.  The  large 
island  on  the  r.  is  Shozushima, 
with  a  rocky,  indented  shore  and 
well-cultivated  slopes.  The  course 
leads  within  a  mile  of  its  southern, 
extremity,  the  coast  of  Shikokn 
being  about  3  m.  to  the  1.  From 
here  the  ship  turns  a  little  to  the 
north,  and  soon  after  the  castle 
town  of  Takamatsu  opens  out  on 
the  1.  at  the  head  of  a  deep  bay. 
At  5  hrs.  Okishima,  with  high  cliffs 
descending  straight  into  15  fathoms 
of  water,  is  passed  within  a  stone's 
throw  on  the  left.  Oki  and  Toyoshi- 
ma  on  the  r.  both  produce  copper 
ore,  and  the  surface  workings  may  be 
observed  in  passing.  From  Okishi- 
ma  very  careful  piloting  is  necessary 

t  The  expressions  *  at  1  hour,'  *  at  2 
hours,'  etc.,  in  the  description  of  this 
voyage  signify,  '  when  the  steamer  has 
been  I  hour  out  of  Kobe,*  '  2  hours  out  rf 
Kobe,'  etc.,  taking  12  knots  per  hour  as 
the  average  speed. 


860 


Boute  50, — The  Inland  Sea. 


to  carry  the  ship  safely  amongst 
the  numerous  shoals  and  islets 
lining  both  sides  of  the  track. 
At  6  hrs.  the  lighthouse  on  the 
S.E.  end  of  Nabae-shima  (called 
Yoshima  on  some  of  the  charts) 
is  passed,  when  the  castle  towns 
of  Sakaido  and  Maru-game,  will 
be  visible  on  the  L  At  this  point 
the  situation  is  particularly  in- 
teresting. The  ship  is  completely 
landlocked,  and  to  the  uninitiated 
there  appears  to  be  no  way  be- 
tween the  rocks  and  islets  with 
which  the  sea  is  studded.  The 
ship  swings  round  point  after  point, 
passing  villages  near  enough  to 
watch  the  occupation  of  their  in- 
habitants, and  threatens  to  swamp 
a  fishing  boat  at  every  turn. 
Through  all  these  narrows  the 
tides  rush  with  a  velocity  of  from 
4  to  6  knots,  adding  greatly  to  the 
difficulty  of  navigation.  At  times 
the  vessel  can  hardly  stem  the  rush 
of  water^^  and  heels  from  side  to  side 
as  it  catches  her  on  either  bow. 

After  Nabae-shima,  Ushijima  is 
passed  either  N.  or  S.,  and  at  7  hrs. 
the  ship  will  be  abreast  of  Takami- 
shima,  high,  with  a  clump  of  pines 
hiding  a  temple  on  the  summit. 
The  shore  of  Shikoku  now  projects 
as  a  long  promontory  forming  the 
eastern  boundary  of  the  .  Bingo 
Nada.  In  the  bight  to  the  left 
is  the  trefoil-shaped  island  of 
Ashima,  whose  northern  extremity 
is  passed  within  a  stone's  throw. 
The  glasses  will  give  a  good  view 
of  Tadotsu,  formerly  the  residence 
of  a  Daimyo,  bearing  south.  If 
Ushijima  is  passed  on  the  north 
side,  the  shores  of  Shiyako  and 
Hiroshima  will  be  very  close  on 
the  right,  and  a  curious  rock  only 
10  ft.  above  water  on  the  1.  At  7i 
hrs.  the  first  narrows  are  cleared, 
and  the  ship  enters  the  Bingo  Nada. 

From  this  point  there  are  two 
routes  leading  through  the  archi- 
pelago that  separates  the  Bingo 
Nada  from  the  Mishima  Nada, — 
one  to  the  north,  passing  north  of  | 


the  islands  and  having  the  shore  of 
the  mainland  of  Japan  on  the  right, 
one  to  the  southward  of  the  islands,, 
having  the   shore  of   Shikoku  on 
the  left.    The  northern   passag-e,. 
which  is  by  far  the  more  interesting 
of  the  two,  is  longer  by  8  miles ;. 
and  for  3  hrs.  the  ship  winds    in 
and   out    through    very   intricate 
channels,  which  at  the  widest  are 
not  niore  than   2  miles  across,  and 
m  some  places  not  a  hundred  yards. 
The  channel  is  entered  at  8^  hours, 
passing  close  to  the  south  of  Yoko- 
shima.     Then  the  track  turns  to 
the    north  between  Innoshima,  a 
large  island  1,250  feet  high  on  the 
left,  and  Mukoshima  on  the  right,, 
where  the  channel  is  just  100  yards 
across.     It  opens  out  a   little  off 
Mihara,  a  castle-town  of  some  im- 
portance, which  is    seen    on    the- 
right    at    about    9  hrs.      Thence 
the  track  turns  to  the  southward, 
and  narrows  again.     At  10^  hrs. 
the    ship    is    off  Osaki-shima    r., 
with  a  small  rocky  islet  on  the  1., 
and  shortly  after  the  track  joins 
that  of  the  southern  route. 

If  the  southern  passage  is  taken, 
the  ship  passes  between  two  high 
islands  with  bare  precipitous  sides 
at  8.i  hrs.  Next  a  sms^  group  of 
rocky  islets  is  passed  on  the  1.,  and 
the  town  of  Imaharu  on  the  coast  of 
Shikoku  comes  in  sight  ahead. 
At  about  10  hrs.  the  track  turns 
sharp  to  the  northward,  between 
Oshima  on  the  r.  and  Shikoku  on 
the  1.  These  narrows  are  particu- 
larly interesting,  especially  if  the 
tide  happens  to  be  running  strongly 
in  the  opposite  direction.  At  the 
narrowest  part,  less  than  100  yards 
wide,  the  vessel  swerves  from  side 
to  side.  *  Hard  a  port ! '  and  *  Hard 
a  starboard  ! '  are  the  continual 
cries.  If  the  vessel  has  not  suffi- 
cient speed,  she  may  be  turned  right 
round.  Indeed,  .one  steaming  even 
10  knots  has  been  known  to  be 
obliged  to  go  back  and  wait  for  a 
fair  tide,  and  large  swirls  have 
sometimes  been  observed  measur- 


Steamer  Voyage, 


861 


ing  6  ft.  across  and  10  ft.  deep.  After 
two  or  three  miles  in  a  northerly 
direction,  the  track  turns  to  the 
>vesxward.  Here  the  ship  is  again 
•completely  landlocked;^  the  moun- 
tainous islands  of  Oshima  and 
Omishima  on  the  r.,  Shikoku  on 
the  1..  and  Osaki-shinia  ahead 
•closing  the  prospect  "all  around. 
But  after  passing  the  extreme 
northern  point  of  the  province  of 
lyo,  with  its  white  outlying  rocks, 
th.e  view  opens  out,  and  at  11 
hrs.  the  track  by  the  northern 
passage  is  j(5ined. 

The  course  now  turns  southward 
a^ain  along  the  shore  of  Shikoku, 
where    the  mountain   ranges    are 
well-wooded,     arid     the      highest 
peaks     tipped     with    snow    early 
in    December.       At   12    hrs.    the 
coast  of  Shikgku  is  again  approach- 
ed within  2  miles.     A  little   later 
the  ship  threads  her  way  through 
another  narrow  passage  between 
Oogoshima  on  the  1.   and  Musuki 
and  Nakashima  on  the  right.    Just 
behind  Gogoshima  lies   Mitsu-ga- 
hama,  one  of  the  chief  ports  on  the 
Inland    Sea.      Musuki    is    passed 
close   enough   to  distinguish    the 
workings  from  which  the  material 
for    manufacturing     porcelain     is 
obtained.    Leaving  Gogoshima  be- 
hind, another  small  island  comes  in 
sight    with    a    lighthouse,    whose 
light  is  visible  20  miles.     Then  the 
ship  is  fairly  in  the  lyo  Nada,  and 
at  13  hrs.  is  nearly  up  to  Yurishima, 
a  curious  double  island  consisting 
of  two  hills  respectively  400  ft.  and 
200  ft.  high,  joined  by  a  narrow 
sand-bank.      This  island    may    be 
passed  on  either  side.     Eight  miles 
beyond  it  is  another  steep  island, 
and  at  14^  hrs.  Yashima,  500  ft. 
high,  is  passed  very  closely.     At 
this  point  the  Bungo  Channel  opens 
to   the  southward,  and  the  track 
turns  a  little  to  the  north,  passing 
Uwajima    at    some    distance   and 
Himeshima    within  a  few    miles. 
From  here  the  track  lies  through  the 
Suwo  Nada,  midway  between  Kyu- 


shu and  the  mainland,  and,  beings 
unrelieved  by  smaller  islands,  pos- 
sesses no  features  of  special  in- 
terest. At  18  hrs.  a  red  buoy 
marking  the  edge  of  a  bank  is 
passed  on  the  right,  and  the  track 
turns  north  for  Shimonoseki.  Here 
the  land  draws  together  on  both 
sides,  forming  the  Straits  of  Shimo- 
noseki which  yvary  from  4  m. 
to  1  m.  in  width,  and  are  further 
narrowed  by  numerous  shoals  and 
sand-banks.  At  19  hrs.  the  ship 
rounds  Isaki  on  the  1.,  and  threads 
her  way  through  the  shallows  past 
the  town  of  Shimonoseki  on  the 
right.  The  steamer  track  skirts 
the  flat  shore,  winds  round  the 
south  of  Hikushima,  turns  to  the 
north-west,  and  then  due  north, 
towards  the  island  of  Eokuren. 
The  whole  channel  is  well-lighted 
and  marked ;  but  the  strong  tides 
which  rush  through  render  it  even 
more  difficult  to  navigate  safely 
than  any  other  part  of  the  Inland 
Sea.  Some  of  the  Nippon  Yusen 
Kwaisha's  steamers  stop  off  Shimo- 
noseki for  an  hour  or  so  to  land 
mails,  etc.  Not  counting  this  stop- 
page, the  ship  will  be  off  Eokuren. 
and  fairly  through  the  Inland  Sea 
at  20  hrs. 

As  almost  all  travellers  go  on  to 
Nagasaki — indeed  must  do  so  un- 
less they  have  special  passports — 
the  description  of  the  route  is  con- 
tinued on  to  that  port. 

From  Eokuren  the  track  turns 
west,  close  past  Shiroshima ;  then 
gradually  south.  At  22  hrs.  the 
ship  is  about  1  m.  off  Koshime-no- 
Oshima  (WUson*s  Island).  The 
coast  of  Kyushii  now  extends  south- 
ward on  the  left — bold,  rugged, 
and  deeply  indented,  with  nume- 
rous harbours,  outlying  islands, 
and  a  background  of  lofty  moun- 
tains. At  24  hrs.  the  desolate, 
rocky  islet  of  Eboshi-jima,  with  its 
lighthouse,  is  close  at  hand,  due 
south  of  Tfr^hich,  on  the  shores  pf  a 
deep  bay,  lie  the  coal-fields  o£ 
Earatsu,  and  the    district  where 


862 


Route  60. — The  Inland  Sea. 


the  celebrated  Hizen  porcelain  is 
manufactured.  Eight  miles  away 
on  the  r.  is  the  large  island  of 
Iki,  with  several  small  rocky  islets 
nearer  in  the  same  direction. 

From  Eboshi-jima  the  track 
turns  gradually  to  the  south,  pass- 
ing Kagara-shima  and  Madara- 
shima.  At  28  hrs.  the  N.E.  end  of 
Hirado  is  close  to,  and  Doshima 
1  m.  on  the  left.  Hirado  is  16  m. 
long,  narrow  and  hilly,  trending 
N.N.E.  and  S.S.W.  It  is  se- 
parated from  Kyiishu  by  a  narrow 
channel  of  a  quarter  of  a  mile, 
which  is  in  effect  narrowed  to 
a  few  yards  by  rocks,  and  is  called 
Spex  Straits. 

Steamers  sometimes  take  '  this 
course  if  the  tide  and  weather 
are  completely  favourable ;  but 
generally  they  keep  along  the 
W.  shore  of  Hirado,  and  pass  be- 
tween it  and  Ikutsuki-shima  by 
what  is  known  to  mariners  as  the 
Obree  Channel.  Nakanoshima, 
an  islet  rising  straight  out  of 
the  water  off  the  S. W.  end  of 
Hirado,  is  closely  skirted,  and  the 
course  changed  to  S.E.  at  29^  hrs. 
Ho-age  (Sail  Bock)  is  1  m.  on  the 
left,  and  the  whole  group  of  the 
Goto  Islands  (see  Route  61)  in  the 
distance  on  the  right.  Shortly 
after  Ho-age,  and  on  the  same  side, 
is  seen  a  beacon  painted  red  and 
white,  to  mark  a  dangerous  sun- 
ken_  ropk.  At  30  hrs.  the  islets 
of  Odate  and  Kodate  are  on  the 
right,  and  Mitoko  on  the  left. 
Off  the  south-east  of  the  latter  is 
a  small  flat  islet  with  pine-trees. 
A  little  south  again,  in  the  main 
island  of  Kyushu,  is  a  remarkable 
conical  hill,  with  a  clump  of  trees 
on  the  summit  closely  resembling  a 
field  officer's  cocked  hat  and  plume. 
Next  we  pass  Matsushima,  which  is 
of  considerable  size  and  partly 
covered  with  pine-trees,  whence 
its  name.  It  is  terraced  for  culti- 
vation to  the  very  summit,  and  has 
a  village  half-way  up  its  slope. 
This  point  passed,  the  track  takes 


a  sharp  turn  to  the  S.  and   back 
to  S.E.  again   between  Ikesliima 
,  and    Haka    or    Hiki-shima ;     and 
I  when  the  ship  is  2  m.  due  south 
I  of  the  latter,    a  good  view   of    a 
!  remarkable  arched  rock  standing^ 
i  straight  up   out  of  the  water   is 
obtained.     From  here  Iwoshima  is 
straight  ahead,  with  the  lighthouse 
just  visible.    To  the  right  of   the 
lighthouse  is  Takashima,  noted  for 
its  coal-mines  (see  Boute  55).     At 
31  hrs.  the  ship  is  midway  between 
Iwoshima  and  the  mainland,,  and 
soon  after  enters  a  cluster  of  islet? 
off  the  mouth  of  Nagasaki  harbour. 
Rounding    Pappenberg,    the  ship 
turns   sharp    to    the    1.    into   the 
harboui*,  and  at  32  hrs.  is  generally 
at  anchor. 

The  chief  distances  of  the  run 
through  the  Inland  Sea  from  Kobe 
to  Nagasaki,  as  taken  by  the  Nip- 
pon Yiisen  Kwaisha*s  steamers,  are 
as  follows : — 

KOBE  to :—  Miles. 

Hyogo  Point 2 

Akashi  Straits  12 

Nabae-shima 73 

Ushijima 75^ 

Nakashima  143 

Yurishima   154 

Yashima '. 175 

Himeshima 198 

Shimonoseki 239 

Rokuren  , 248 

Shiroshima. 257 

Koshime-no-Oshima 275 

Eboshi-jima  300 

Obree  Channel  334 

Nakanoshima 346 

Arched  rock  371 

Nagasaki 387 

4. — Places  op  Interest  on  the 
Northern  Shore  of  the  In- 
land Sea. 

Hiineji  ( Inns,  Inoue-ro,  with 
foreign  restt. ;  Tatsuman),  capi- 
tal of  the  province  of  Harima,  is 
a  busy  commercial  centre,  beinfy  at 
the  junction  of  three  highways— 
the  San-yodo  which  runs  along  the 


Toicns  on  the  Northem  Shore. 


868 


northern  shore  of  the  Inland  Sea 
"to  Shimonoseki ;  a  road  to  the 
provinces  of  Mimasaka,  Hoki,  and 
Xznmo ;  and  a  third  up  the  valley  of 
"tlie  Ichikawa,  via  Ikuno  to  Toyooka 
in  the  province  of  Taj ima.  Himeji's 
cliief  attraction,  however,  is  its 
ancient  castle,  which  still  remains 
in  a  state  of  exceptional  preserva- 
Idon  and  eminently  deserves  a 
visit.  Travellers  are  admitted  on 
presentation  of  their  cards. 

The  castle,  as  it  stands,  is  the  outcome 
of  the  warlike  labours  of  several  noble 
families  dming  many  ages.  Founded  in 
tlie  14th  centuiy  by  Akamatsu  Enshin,  a 
retainer  of  the  unfortunate  Emperor  Go- 
Dai^,  it  soon  fell  into  the  hands  of  the 
Afihikaga  Shoguns,  but  was  recovered  in 
1467  by  a  descendant  of  the  Akamatsu 
family.  In  1677,  Ota  Nobunaga,  then  all- 
powerful,  gave  the  province  to  Hideyoshi, 
mrho  enlarged  the  castle  and  crowned  it 
with  thirty  turrets.  In  1608,  Ikeda  Teru- 
masu,  to  whom  it  had  been  meantime 
granted  in  iief,  raised  the  number  of 
turrets  to  fifty  which  took  him  nine 
years  to  finish.  From  that  time  forward 
Himeji  was  at  peace ;  and  at  the  time  of 
the  fall  of  feudalism,  belonged  to  a  Dai- 
myd  named  Sakai  with  an  income  of 
lfiO,000  koku  of  rice.  The  barracks  now 
nsed  are  of  modem  construction. 

The  chief  productions  of  Himeji 
are  cotton  and  stamped  leather 
goods.  At  Shirakawa,  a  short  dis- 
tance from  Himeji,  are  some  plum 
orchards  which  afi'ord  a  good  place 
for  a  picnic. 

Okayama  (Inn,  *Jiyiisha),  capital 
of  the  prefecture  of  the  same  name 
and  of  the  province  oi  Bizen^  is 
situated  at  some  distance  from  its 
port;  Sanibanshi,  no  portion  of  this 
coast  showing  more  clearly  the 
rapid  encroachment  of  the  land  on 
the  sea.  Okayama  may  be  reached 
either  by  jinrikisha  or  by  boat  up 
the  river,  the  latter  taking  about 
3  hrs.  The  castle  formerly  belong- 
ing to  the  Daimyo  Ikeda  is  still 
entire,  and  visitors  are  admitted 
on  payment  of  a  small  fee.  The 
public  garden  here  is  in  the  quaint 
native  style,  and  is  therefore  more 
interesting  than  most  of  those  now 
found  in  sQl  Japanese  towns  of  any 
size.    A  good   deal  of    cotton    is 


grown  in  the  surrounding  fertile 
plains. 

Fiikuyahia  (Inn,  Kameyama), 
capital  of  the  province  of  Bingo, 
was  the  castle-town  of  a  Daimyo 
called  Abe  Ise-no-Kami.  The  only 
sight  of  the  place  is  the  Shinto 
temple  of  Abe  Jinja. 

OllOiiiiclli  (Inns,  Hamakichi, 
Hirao),  a  bustling,  prosperous  place 
stretching  along  the  shore  of  a 
long  narrow  strait,  is  noted  for  the 
manufacture  of  ornamental  mats, 
which  may  best  be  procured  at  the 
Byuseki  Ewaisha.  The  shore  is 
lined  with  godowns.  Behind  the 
town  rises  a  lofty  hill,  near  the 
summit  of  which  stands  a  Bud- 
dhist temple,  a  branch  of  the  greUt 
shrine  of  Zenkoji  in  Shinshiij,  The 
climb  is  amply  rewarded  by  the 
view.  Beyond  the  islands  studding 
the  Inland  Sea,  lies  due  S.  Ishi- 
zuchi-yama,  the  highest  mountain 
in  Shikoku.  The  Senjo-iwa,  a  big 
flat  rock  at  the  N.  end  of  the 
plateau,  is  a  favourite  spot  for 
picnics. 

Mihara  (Inn,  by  Ayame  Heisuke) 
was  the  seat  of  a  Daimyo  called 
Asano  Kai-no-Eami,  whose  castle, 
built  by  the  Taiko  Hideyoshi,  still 
remains  though  fast  going  to  decay. 
The  pretty  scenery  of  this  neigh- 
bourhood is  counterbalanced  by 
the  unpleasant  odours.  Indeed  aU 
this  coast  of  the  province  of  Bingo 
is  maladorous,  the  sandy  unfertile 
nature  of  the  soil  necessitating  a 
more  than  usually  copious  applica- 
tion of  manure. 

Eiire  (Inn,  Horai),  an  important 
station  of  the  Japanese  navy,  is 
romantically  situated  at  the  base 
of  the  hills  of  the  province  of  Aki. 
One  and  a  half  ri  distant  is  the 
barren  island  of  Etajima,  where 
stands  the  Imperial  Naval  College, 
an  admirably  conducted  institu- 
tion for  the  education  of  cadets. 

Hiroshima  (Inn,  *  Kikkawa-ya  ,• 
there  is  also  a  foreign  restaurant), 
capital  of  the  province  of  Aki  and 
seat  of  a  prefecture,  stands  in  the 


864 


ItoHte  50. — TJie  Inland  Sea, 


delta  of  the  Otagawa.  The  ap- 
proach to  Hiroshima  by  sea  is  noted 
for  its  beauty.  From  the  harbour 
to  the  town  is  a  distance  of  about 
\\  ri  along  a  fine  jinrikisha  road. 
It  is  a  brisk  and  busy  place,  the 
most  important  to  vim  in  Japan  to 
the  west  of  Kobe,  and  resembles 
Osaka  in  appearance  owing  to  the 
numerous  canals  by  which  it  is 
intersected.  It  is  a  centre  for 
dealers  in  lacquer,  bronze,  and  most 
other  kinds  of  artistic  work.  The 
iJastle  stands  in  a  large  park  at  the 
N.  end  of  the  town,  just  where  the 
rich  alluvial  plain  begins  to  rise 
towards  the  foot-hills  of  the  central 
mountain  spine  which  here  closely 
approaches  the  coast.  The  castle, 
or  what  now  remains  of  it,  is 
small  and  not  specially  imposing, 
the  turrets  at  the  gates  and 
corners  being  only  two  or  at 
the  most  three  storeys  in  height. 
It  is  now  the  head-quarters  of  a 
large  garrison.  Permission  to  visit 
the  castle  must  be  obtained  from 
the  local  authorities;  but  the  Park  is 
open  to  all  and  affords  a  delightful 
place  of  recreation  to  the  inhabi- 
tants. 

Before  the  establishment  of  the  Sh5- 
gunate  in  the  12th  century,  Hiroshima 
beloni^ed  to  Kiyomori,  the  powerful  and 
unscrupulous  head  of  the  Taira  clan.  At 
the  beginning  of  the  17  th  century  the 
fief  passed  into  the  hands  of  the  Asano 
family,  who  retained  it  till  the  mediatisa- 
tionof  the  DaimyQs  in  1871,  The  Asanos 
were  often  spoken  of  as  the  Princes  of 
OeiuhR,  Geish  i  or  Aki  being  the  name  of 
the  province  in  which  Hiroshima  is 
situated.  Their  garden  is  one  of  the 
most  charming  examples  of  the  horticul- 
tural art  in  Japan. 

The  ascent  of  Futdba-yama,  the 
hiU  behind  the  castle,  is  easy 
and  the  view  from  the  top  ex- 
quisite. In  the  plain  below  lies 
Hiroshima  intersected  by  the  five 
arms  of  the  Otagawa ;  to  the 
1.  is  the  sea;  to  the  r.  rises  a 
conical  shaped  hill  called  the  Aki 
Fuji-san,  and  further  to  the  r.  Hiji- 
yama ;  in  front  is  the  long  road 
running  down  towards  the  pine- 
clad  islet  in  the  harbour ;  beyond 


all  spreads  the  sea,  glittering^ 
amidst  rocky  islands,  chief  of  wMch 
is  Miyajima  with  its  feathery 
peaks ;  on  the  dim  horizdn  are 
the  Suwo  hills. 

There  are  two  ways  of  reaching 
Miyajima  from  Hiroshima, — either 
by  boat  from  Kawaguchi,  or  by 
jinrikisha  along  the  San-yodo  to 
Kuba,  and  thence  across  a  narrow 
stretch  of  water  by  ferry-boat. 
The  distance  by  jinrikisha  is  7 
ri  30  cho. 

Miyajima  (Inn  *  Momiji-ya),  also 
called  Itsukushima,  is  a  sacred 
island,  and  one  of  the  San-kei,  or 
'Three  Chief  Sights'  of  Japan. 
The  island  rises  to  an  elevation  of 
j  about  1 ,500  ft.,  and  is  very  rocky 
and  thickly  wooded.  Many  small 
but  lovely  valleys  trend  down  to 
the  sea,  and  in  these,  among  groves 
of  maple  trees,  nestle  the  inns  and 
tea-houses  for  pilgrims  and  the 
dwellings  of  the  fishermen  and 
image-carvers,  who,  with  the  priests 
and  innkeepers,  make  up  a  popula- 
tion of  some  three  thousand.  The 
torii  in  front  of  the  great  teihple 
stands  in  the  sea ;  and  the  temple 
itself,  being  partly  built  out  over 
the  sea  on  piles,  appears  at  high 
tide  to  float  upon  the  surface  of  t^e 
waters.  A  more  magical  scene  can 
scarcely  be  pictured,  especially  by 
moonlight. 

The  temple  is  dedicated  to  three  god- 
desses, daughters  of  Susa-no-o,  ^m 
the  eldest  of  whom,  named  Ichiki- 
shimarHime  or  Itsukushima-Hime,  the 
alternative  name  of  the  island  is  fabled'  to 
he  derived.  According  to  tradition,  the 
first  erection  of  a  temple  on  the  present 
site  dates  from  the  reign  of  the  Empress 
Suiko  (A.D.  59.3-628) ;  but  the  whole  early 
histoiy  of  Miyajima  was  lost  in  a  threat 
fire  which  occurred  in  1548,  and  nothing 
certain  can  be  learnt  from  other  sources 
regarding  its  fortuned  before  the  12th 
century.  At  that  time  Kiyomori,  who 
held  sway  over  central  Japan,  repaired  it 
in  such  style  as  to  gain  for  it  the  reputa- 
tion of  the  most  magnificent  structure  on 
the  shores  of  the  Inland  8ea.  Several 
Mikados,  the  Ashikaga  ShOguns,  and  the 
grcBt  Daimy5s  of  Geisha,  Chdsha,  and 
'  other  neighbouring  provinces  were  count- 
ed among  the  benefactors  of  the  place 
and     worshippers    at    the     goddesses' 


Toxcm  on  live  Noi'tJieni  SJiore. 


865 


sliriiie.  Here,  as  elsewhere,  the  Buddhist 
priests  were  compelled  to  withdraw  on 
the  •  purificatiou '  of  the  natioaal  Shintd 
shrines  in  1871 ;  but  fortunately  the  archi- 
tectural beauties  which  they  introduced 
<«kre  still  preserved.  A  curious  custgm 
wlileli  obtained  during  the  time  of  their 
religious  sway,  was  the  prohibition  of  all 
<leatlis  and  births  on  the  island.  Invalids 
in  ejctremiti  and  women  about  to  be  de- 
livered were  always  removed  to  the  main- 
land.    Dogs  are  still  prohibited. 

Near  the  top  of  the  highest  hill 
in   the  centre  of  the  island  is  a 
small  shrine  containing  a  sacred 
fire,    which  has   never  been    per- 
mitted to   go   out  since  the  day 
"when  it  was  first  lighted  by  Kobb 
Daishi     over     1,000     years     ago. 
Miyajima  is  a  charming  summer 
resort,  the    air    being    pure,    the 
temperature  never  very  high,  the 
sea   and  river  bathing   excellent, 
and  the  walks  numerous.    Herds 
of    tame  deer  wander   about    the 
island,  coming  down  to  the  very 
inns   in  the  village    and  feeding 
out  of  the  peoples'  hands. 

Iwaknni  (Innsy  Kodama,  Kome- 
hei)  is  a  bustling  place,  formerly 
the  castle-town  of  a  Daimyo  called 
Kikawa.  Where  his  castle  stood, 
there  is  now  a  temple  dedicated  to 
Kato  Kiyomasa.  Iwakuni  is  noted 
for  its  manufacture  of  silk,  paper, 
cotton,  mats,  and  mosquito-nets. 
Its  great  stone  bridge  called 
Kintaikyby  spanning  the  Nishiki- 
.^wa,  is  famed  throughout  West^ra 
Japan.  It  is  built  in  five  semi- 
circular arches,  difficult  to  cross 
but  picturesque  to  look  at.  It  is 
some  150  ft.  long,  and  has  lead  for 
cement.  Having  become  shaky, 
it  was    closed   to   traffic  in    1891. 

Yama^uclli  (InUy  Fujimura  and 
European  restt.),  capital  of  the 
prefecture  of  the  same  name  and 
of  the  province  of  Suwo,  though 
several  miles  inland,  calls  for 
mention  here  as  a  celebrated 
town  not  far  from  the  Inland  Sea. 
It  may  best  be  reached  by  steamer 
to  Mitajiri,  whence  4  ri  by  jin- 
rikisha  vi^  a  steep  hill  called 
Sabayama,  which  is  partly  tunnel- 


led.   The  hot-springs  in  the  neigh- 
bourhood possess  some  local  fame. 

Yamagachi  was  an  important  Christian 
centre  daring  the  latter  half  of  the  16th 
century,  the  mission  there  having  been 
founded  by  St.  Fimncis  Xavier  himself. 
More  latterly  the  noble  house  of  Chdsho, 
which  had  its  seat  here,  became  a  very 
powerful  factor  in  Japanese  poUtics. 
Since  the  Revolution,  the  Chosha  clan  has 
divided  with  that  of  Satsuma  the  chief 
direction  of  public  affairs.  The  peasantry 
of  the  Yamaguchi  prefecture  furnish  a 
large  proportion  of  the  emigrants  who 
have  been  sent  to  Hawaii  during  the  last 
few  years  under  the  joint  protection  of 
the  «1apaneseand  Hawaiian  governments. 

Toyoura,  soipetimes  called  Chofvi, 
{Inn,  Yoshida-ya). 

Herfe,  according  to  ti-adition,  is  the 
burial  place  of  Chftai  Tenno,  a  Mika<lo 
who  is  said  to  have  ruled  Japan  at  the 
end  of  the  2nd  century  of  our  era.  His 
consort,  JingO  KogS,  had  a  revelation 
from  Heaven  one  day,  while  her  husband 
was  playing  on  the  lute,  that  there  existed 
to  the  westward  a  fair  land,  dazzling  with 
gold  and  silver— the  land  of  Korea— which 
the  Japanese  sovereign  was  divinely  com- 
manded to  conquer  and  add  to  his 
domains.  But  Chaai  would  not  l>elieve 
the  message.  *  If,*  said  he,  'one  ascend  to 
a  high  place  and  look  westvrard,  no  land 
is  to  be  seen.  There  is  only  the  gi*eat 
sea ;  your  deities  are  lying  deities.*  For 
this  his  disbelief  and  disobedience,  he 
was  smitten  by  the  gods  with  sudden 
sickness  and  death,  and  his  consort  was 
left  to  carry  out  the  expedition. 

At  Toyoura  itself  there  is  little 
to  see ;  but  the.  walk  of  nearly  2  ri  to 
Shimonoseki  is  beautiful.  Across  the 
strait  lies  Tanoura,  whence  eighteen 
foreign  men-of-war  poured  their 
shot  and  shell  upon  the  Japanese 
batt-eries  in  what  is  known  as  the 
'Shimonoseki  Affair.*  The  chief 
battery  of  the  Prince  of  Choshn 
was  planted  on  a  little  sandy  spit 
below  the  roadway  on  the  1.,  at  the 
vill.  of  Maeda. 

The  Shimonoseki  Affair  arose  out  of  an. 
attempt  on  the.  part  of  the  Prince  of  ChO- 
sha,  who  WHS  at  that  time  a  semi-inde- 
pendent ruler,  to  close  the  straits  leading 
into  the  Inland  Sea.  Two  American 
ships,  a  French  ship,  and  a  Dutch  ship 
were  fired  on  in  June  and  July  1863,  and 
several  men  killed.  Failing  to  obtain 
satisfaction  from  the  Shdgun's  govern- 
ment, the  representatives  of  the  three 
powers  concerned,  together  With  the  Bri- 
tish representative,  who  deemed  it  es- 
sential for  all  the  Western   powers  to 


866 


Boute  50, — The  Inland  Sea. 


make  common  cause  in  their  dealings 
with  the  Japan  of  those  dnys,  sent  a  com- 
bined fleet  to  bombard  Shimonoseki.  This 
'  "was  done  on  the  5th  and  6th  September, 
1^63.  The  victors,  not  content  with  tliis 
act  of  retahation,  furthermore  clsimed  an 
indemnity  of  $3,C0O,00O,  the  last  instal- 
ment of  which  was  paid  over  by  the 
Mikado's  government  in  1875.  No  inci- 
dent in  the  deaUngs  of  the  West  with 
Japan  has  met  with  so  much  adverse 
criticism  as  this  Shimonoseki  Affair. 
Several  years  later,  the  United  States 
government,  conscience-stricken,  repaid 
their  portion  of  the  indemnity— at  least 
they  repaid,  the  principMl  but  not  the 
interest.  The  other  recipients  have  not 
shown  this  modicum  of  generosity. 

Shimonoseki,  als*  called  Aha- 
ma-ga-seki  or  Bakan  (Inns,  *Fu3ino, 
*Daikichi-ya,  Mammatsu-ya),  is  a 
considerable  shipping  centre,  lying 
4  m.  from  the  W.  entrance  of  the 
strait.  It  consists  chiefly  of  one 
street,  about  2  m.  in  length.  The 
mail  steamers  anchor  in  the  bay  of 
Moji  on  the  Kyushu  side,  where  a 
pier  is  in  process  of  construction. 
Moji  (Inn,  Sankai-ro),  the  terminus 
of  the  Kyushu  EaUway,  exports  a 
considerable  quantity  of  coal  and 
rice.  The  chief  products  of  Shimo- 
noseki are  tobacco  and  cutlery. 

Close  to  here  is  Dan-no-ura,  famous  as 
the  scene  of  the  greatest  naval  battle  in 
Japanese  history,  when  the  Taira,  hither- 
to all-powerful,  received  their  death-blow 
from  the  rival  clan  of  Minamoto  headed 
by  the  young  hero  Yoshitsune.  The 
l^ira  forces  were  encumbered  by  the  pre- 
sence of  numerous  women  and  children,' 
among  whom  were  the  widow  and 
daughter  of  Kiyomori,— the  former  a  nun, 
the  latter  the  Kmpress-Dowager  with  her 
child,  the  Emperor  Autoku,  then  only  six 
years  old.  When  his  grandmother  saw 
that  all  was  lost,  she  clasped  the  young 
monarch  in  her  arms,  and,  despite  the 
entreaties  of  her  daughter,  leapt  into  the 
sea  where  both  were  drowned.  This  was 
in  A.D.  1185. 

[For  the  chief  Inland  Sea  ports 
on  the  N.E.  coast  of  Kyiishu, 
see  Eoute  57.J 

6. — Places  of  Interest  on  the 

SOUTHEEN  ShO»E. 

Matsnynilin  (Inn,  IQdo-ya),  capi- 
tal of  the  province  of  lyo,  possess- 
ing one  of  the  largest  castles  in 
Japan,  is  reached  in  ^  hr.  by  rail 


from  Mitsu-ga-hama,  its  port  (Inn,. 
Ishizaki).  Instead  of  staying  at 
Matsuyama,  which  is  a  dull  place, 
the  traveller  may  find  it  pleasant 
to  push  on  I  ri  past  the  castle  hill 
to  the  hot-springs  of 

Dogo  (lnw,*Funa-ya) ,  a  favourite 
provincial  spa,  rendered  lively  by 
the  presence  of  numerous  singing 
girls.  Besides  the  hot  baths,  there 
is  a  rivulet  to  bathe  in,  and 
on  its  banks  a  number  of  gay 
tea-houses.  Carving  in  wood  and 
bamboo  is  the  chief  industry  of 
this  district.  _  A  Shinto  temple 
dedicated  to  Okuni-nushi  and  Su- 
kiina-bikona  stands  at  the  top  of  a 
steep  flight  of  stairs  leading  up  the 
wooded  hill  which  overhangs  the' 
spring.  On  the  height  opposite 
are  tea-houses  and  a  public  garden. 
From  this  there  is  a  fine  prospect 
over  the  wide  and  fertile  plain  of 
Matsuyama ;  to  the  N.  is  the 
Inland  Sea,  S.  the  mountains  to- 
wards Uwajima,  E.  the  Kumano- 
toge  on  the  road  to  Kochi. 

Imnliarii  or  Inidbari  (Inn,  Naka- 
hei),  formerly  the  castle-town  of  a 
Daimyo  named  Matsudaira  Suruga- 
no-Kami,  stands  at  the  entrance  of 
one  of  the  narrowest  channels  in 
the  Inland  Sea. 

Saijo  (Inn,  0-Sakana-ya)  is  the 
best  point  on  the  Island  Sea  from 
which  to  make  the  ascent  of  Ishi- 
zuchi-yama,  the  highest  mountain 
in  Shikoku. 

Tadolsii  (Inns,  Yoshida-gumi, 
Hanabishi)  and 

Manigaiiie  (Inn  and  restt,  Naka- 
mnra-ro)  are  the  largest  ports  of 
the  province  of  Sanuki.  The  chief 
attraction  in  their  neighbourhood 
is  the  ancient  shrine  of  Konipira, 
or,  as  it  has  recently  been  re- 
named, Kotohira,  the  most  sacred 
in  all  Shikoku,  and  held  in  special 
veneration  by  sailors.  In  the  ad- 
jacent vill.  there  is  an  excellent 
inn  called  Tora-ya.  A  miniature 
railway  connects  these  three  places, 
the  run  from  Marugame  to  Kotohira 
via  Tadotsu  taking  only  f  hr.    The 


Toims  on  the  Southern  Shore. 


867 


temple^  one  of  the  genuine  founda- 
tions of  Eobo  Daishi,  stands  on  the 
slope  of  Zoyama,  a  hill  so-called 
from  its  supposed  resemblance  to 
an  elephant's  head,  and  is  ap- 
proaclied  by  unusually  long  flights 
of  steps.  Its  appearance  nowa- 
days is  scarcely  equal  to  its  re- 
putation. The  most  interesting 
object  is  a  bronze  horse,  life-size,  to 
"wliich.  rice  is  offered.  Pious  pil- 
grims gather  up  the  scattered 
grains  and  eat  them  uncooked. 

This  temple  of  Kompira  i»  the  original 
.from  which  countless  shrines  throughout 
the  Bmpire  have  bon-owecl  the  name,  and 
like  it,  they  have  all  recently  been  trans- 
ferred, from  Buddhist  to  Shinto  keeping. 
The  popularity  of  Kompira's  many  shrines 
has  been  in  nowise  affected  by  this  change ; 
and  the  festival  which  takes  place  on  the 
10th  day  of  each  month  is  one  of  the  live- 
liest in  the  calendar. 

The  view  from  the  summit  of  the 


hill  is  very  fine,  embracing  as  it 
does  the  best  part  of  the  Harima 
Nada,  with  the  cluster  of  islands 
separating  that  from  the  Bingo 
Nada. 

Not  far  from  Tadotsu  is  Byobu- 
ga-ura,  the  birthplace  of  Kobo 
Daishi. 

Kompira  is  an  agreeable  excur- 
sion from  Kobe.  One  may  leave 
by  steamer  in  the  evening,  and  be 
back  in  Kobe  late  the  following 
night,  so  that  the  trip  is  practicable 
even  for  those  who  have  only 
Saturday  afternoon  and  Sunday 
at  their  disposal. 

Tnkamatsn  (Inn  and  restt., 
Oimatsu-en),  formerly  the  seat  of 
the  Daimyo  Matsudaira  Sanuki-no- 
Kami,  and  capital  of  the  province 
of  Sanuki,  is  a  clean  and  pleasant 
place. 


JET 


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^"^B^-i  •■. 


i 


SECTION  VI. 


THE  ISLAND  OF  SHIKOKU. 


(Routes  f)i — 52 


Route  51, — Froyn  Matsuyama  to  KochL 


871 


ROUTE  61. 

From  Matsuyama  to  Kochi  over 
THE  Mountains  of  Ito  and  Tosa. 

1.  OBI^SSAL  BEMABKS  ON  THE 
ISIjAKD  of  SHIKOKU.  2.  FROM 
MATSUYAMA  TO  KOCHI. 

1. — GrENEBAL  REMARKS. 

The  chief  points  of  interest  on 
the  N.  shore  of  the  Island  of  Shi- 
koku  have  already  been  described 
in  the  previous  Route.  A  visit  to 
the  N.  shore,  however,  by  no  means 
exhausts  the  capabilities  of  the 
island  from  a  tourist's  point  of 
view.  There  are  other  trips,  not- 
ably that  from  Kochi  to  Tokushima 
vi4  the  valley  of  the  Yoshino-gawa, 
which  will  well  repay  his  trouble, 
and  w^hich  are  treated  of  in  the 
following  pages.  ■ 

The  word  Shi-koku   means    *four   pro- 
vinces '—a  name  derived  from  the  fact  of 
the  island  being  divided  into  the  four  pro- 
vinces of  Awa  to  the  E.,  Sanuki  to  the  N.E., 
lyo  to  the  N.W.,  and  Tosa  to  the  S.  As  the. 
author  of  the  Kojiki  quaintly  phitises  it, 
'this  island  has  one  body  and  four  faces,  and 
each  face  has  a  name.'  Some  of  the  names 
used  in  early  times  were  quaint  indeed, 
the  province  of  lyo  being  called  '  Lovely 
Princess'  {E-hime),  Sanuki  bein^  'Prince 
Good  Boiled  Rice'  (Ji-i/ori-hiko),  Awa_ be- 
ing 'the  Princess  of  Great  Food'  {0-ge- 
tm-hime),   and   Tosa  being   'the    Brave 
Good  Youth'  {Tuke-yori-wake).    The  last- 
named  province   continues  to  justify  its 
name  for  bravery  and  ability.    No  men 
have  aided  more  than  the  Tosa  men  to 
bring  about  the  renovation  of  Japan ;  in 
none  are  turbulent  and  democratic  senti- 
ments more  prevalent.    During  the  middle 
ages  Shikoku  was  ruled  over  by  a  num- 
ber of  great  feudal  houses^  of  which  the 
most  powerful  were  the  Kono,  the  Hoso- 
kawa,  the  Miyoshi,  the  Chosokabe,  and 
the  Hachisuka.    The  island  is  now  divided 
into  the  four  prefectures  of  Tokushima, 
Bhime,  Kochi,  and  Kagawa,  correspond- 
ing respectively  to  the  old  provinces  of 
Awa,  lyo,  Tosa,  and  Sanuki. 

The  climate  of  Shikoku  is  excep- 
tionally mild,  especially  in  the  S. 
portion,  which  is  influenced  by 
the  Kuroshio,  or  Japanese  Gulf- 
Stream.  Tosa  is  the  only  province 
in  Japan  where  two  crops  of  rice 
are  produced  yearly.  The  greater 
part  of  the  island  is  occupied  by 
mountain  ridges  of  from  3,000  ft.  to 


4,000  ft.  in  height,  with  few  salient 
peaks,  the  loftiest  being  Ishi- 
zuchi-yama  in  lyo,  estimated  by 
Dr.  Eiein  at  1,400  metres  (about 
4,666  ft.).  *  In  Sanuki,'  says  Dr. 
Rein,  *  the  plain  of  Takamatsu  is 
fringed  towards  the  sea  by  several 
volcanic  cones,  quite  distinct  from 
the  schist  mountains  in  the  in- 
terior. They  include  no  important 
heights,  but  are  a  very  striking 
feature  in  the  landscape.'  The 
mountains  of  Shikoku  are  well- 
watered,  and  crowned  by  magni- 
ficent forests.  'In  the  higher 
regions/  says  the  authority  jdst 
quoted,  *  the  eye  is  delighted  by  a 
vigorous  growth  of  deciduous  trees, 
where  horse-chestunts  and  magno- 
lias are  variously  intermingled 
with  beeches,  oaks,  maples,  ashes, 
and  alders.  But  laurel-leaved  oaks, 
camellias,  and  other  evergreen  trees 
venture  much  nearer  to  them  and 
higher  than  in  Hondo  {the  main 
island  of  Japan),  while  still  lower 
camphor-trees  and  other  cinnamon- 
species,  the  wild  star-anise,  Nan- 
dina,  and  many  other  plants  which 
we  only  find  in  the  main  island  in 
a  state  of  cultivation,  take  part  in 
the  composition  of  the  evergreen 
forests.' 

Away  from  the  big  towns  on  the 
coast,  the  accommodation  in  Shi- 
koku is  poor  and  the  roads  rough ; 
often,  indeed,  they  are  rendered 
impassable  by  floods. 

2. — Matsuyama  (Dogo)  to  Kocnr 
OVER  THE  Mountains  op  Iyo 
AND  Tosa. 

Itinerary. 

MATSUYAMA  to:— JJi.  Cho.  M. 

Kumama^hi  7  —  17 

Higashigawa 3  27  9i 

Mochii 4  4  10 

Ikegawa 3  —  7^- 

Kawaguchi    3  —  7i 

Ino(byboat)     ...12  —  29^ 

KOCHI  1  18  3f 

Total  34    13    83f 


872 


Boute  62. — From  Kochi  to  Tokushima 


These  distances,  from  Mochii 
onwards,  are  only  approximate. 

All  the  first  part  of  this  route  is 
rough,  lying  as  it  does  over  a 
succession  of  mountain  passes; 
but  the  views  are  correspondingly 
beautiful,  especially  on  the  Tosa 
side  where  nature  assumes  a  more 
smiling  aspect.  In-  some  of  the 
clefts  and  gullies  on  the  more 
rugged  lyo  side,  patches  of  snow 
lie  all  the  year  round.  Poor  ac- 
commodation is  to  be  found  at  each 
village.  The  journey  takes  from  2^ 
to  3  days,  when  no  interruptions 
occur  from  flooded  streams  or  patlis 
carried  away.  From  Kawaguchi 
to  Ino,  is  a  delightful  7  hrs, 
journey  by  boat  down  the  Miyodo- 
gawa,  which  is  romantically  beauti- 
ful and  has  several  small  rapids. 
At  Ino  live  the  principal  paper- 
dealers  of  Kochi,  and  shortly 
beyond  it  the  old  castle  of  Kochi 
comes  into  view. 

KOchi  {Inn,  *Emmei-ken  with 
European  restt.),  capital  of  the 
prefecture  of  the  same  name, 
is  a  go-ahead  place  with  many 
public  buildings  in  foreign  style. 
Its  most  striking  feature,  the 
castle,  dating  from  the  16th  cen- 
tury and  the  abode  of  the  princes 
of  Tosa  until  the  revolution  of 
1S68,  was  converted  some  yeard  ago 
into  a  public  library,  and  the 
grounds  into  a  park.  Most  of  the 
government  buildings  stand  at  the 
foot  of  the  castle  hill,  as  does  also  a 
large  square-built  church  erected 
by  the  native  Christians.  Kochi 
is  noted  for  its  coral.  The  bay  of 
Kochi  is  a  double  one ;  the  inten- 
tion is  to  deepen  the  outer  part 
so  as  to  admit  large  steamers.  The 
Buddhist  temple  of  Chikunnji,  a 
little  over  1  m.  from  Kochi  by 
jinrikisha,  is  worth  a  visit.  It 
stands  near  the  summit  of  a  hill 
called  Godai-san,  several  hundred 
steps  leading  up  to  the  temple 
gate.  At  the  foot  of  the  same  hUl 
may  be  seen  a  Shinto  shrine  and 


monument  erected  to  the  memory 
of  the  men  of  Kochi  who  fell  on 
the  loyal  side  in  the  Satsuma. 
rebellion. 

The  begt  walk  (2  hrs.)  from 
Kochi  is  to  the  top  of  Washio-yama, 
a  hill  1,500  ft.  high  affording  a 
beautiful  view.  On  the  other  side 
of  the  Kagami-gawa,  is  the  burial 
place  of  the  Princes  of  Tosa. 

Three  m.  to  the  N.E.  of  Kochi 
is  the  waterfall  of  Takinwto,  ac- 
cessible by  jinrikisha. 

Kochi  is  usually  approached,  not 
by  this  mountain  road,  but  by 
steamer  from  Kobe.  The  steamers 
are  fairly  good,  and  the  passage 
takes  16  hrs. 


KOUTE  62. 
From  Kochi  to  Tokushima  down 

THE    EaPIDS     of     the     YoSHINO- 
GAWA. 

Itinerary, 

KOCHI  to :—  Ri.  Cho.  Itf. 

Ryoseki 3  33  9^ 

Todeno  3  10      8 

Sugimura 2  31       7 

Yuiiotani    2  34  7i 

Okubo 2  18  6 

Kawaguchi    5  18  13^ 

Ikeda  3  18  8i 

[Hashikura 1  —      2i] 

Wakimachi  11.  18  28 

Yawata 2  18  6 

TOKUSHIMA...    7  —  17 

Total 46      8  mh 


This  is  probably  the  most  de- 
lightful trip  in  Shikoku,  the  scenery 
on  the  Yoshino-gawa,  the  largest 
river  in  the  island,  being  wondrous- 


by  the  Valley  of  tJie  Yoshino-gawa. 


873 


ly  beautiful.  It  takes  4  days  under 
favourable  circumstances,  includ- 
ingr  a  detour  to  the  monastery  of 
Hasliikara. 

Lieaving  Kochi,  we  wend  up  hill 
and  reach 

Jlyiiseki  (Inn,  by  Maeda),  a 
poor  liamlet.  Crossing  the  KcJku- 
bu-g-awa,  we  come  to  the  Oita-toge. 
After  running  some  distance  along 
the  ridges,  the  path  descends  over 
the  N.  face  of  the  range,  and 
leads  into  the  basin  of  the  Yoshino- 
gsLwsb,  which  is  crossed  before  reach- 
ing Todeno.  Up  to  this  point  it 
may  be  found  convenient  to  ride. 
The  first  night  will  probably  be 
best  spent  at 

YniKitaini  (Inn,  Kome-y  a),  whence 
onwards,  for  2  days*  journey,  the 
scenery  of  the  river  becomes 
entrancing,  the  stream  running 
often  through  wild  gorges,  at 
other  times  breaking  into  rapids  or 
falling  in  cascades,  while  above  and 
around  there  is  a  grand  luxuriance 
of  vegetation.  At  Yunotani  it- 
self there  is  a  deep  valley  to  the 
1.,  beyond  which  rises  a  huge  moun- 
tain mass,  washed  by  streams  utili- 
sed for  irrigation  in  a  manner  won- 
derful to  behold.  These  streams  are 
carried  along  the  face  of  the  upper 
slopes,  whence  they  percolate  on  to 
the  terraces  below.  From  Yuno- 
tani onwards,  the  journey  is  per- 
formed partly  by  boat  and  partly 
on  foot.  The  state  of  the  river 
must  help  to  determine  the  travel- 
ler's movements,  stages  which  can 
be  done  by  boat  when  the  river  is 
at  its  normal  height,  having  to  be 
performed  on  foot  when  it  is  too 
full  or  not  full  enough.  In  flood- 
time  the  water  has  been  known  to 
rise  30  ft.  above  its  ordinary  level. 
The  path  is  a  series  of  ascents  and 
descents  of  the  most  rugged 
character,  sometimes  by  the  side 
of  the  river,  sometimes  hundreds 
of  feet  above  it.     After  leaving 

Okubo,  the  most  picturesque 
portion  of  the  whole  valley  is 
reached.      There  are   rapids   and 


cascades  innumerable.  At  the 
Sakaigawa,  the  traveller  leaves  the 
province  of  Tosa  and  passes  into 
that  of  Awa.  The  second  night's 
halt  may  be  made,  according  to 
circumstances  of  time  and  weather, 
at  Kuroishi,  where  there  are  several 
tidy  inns,  or  at 

Ksnva&rnehi  ( Inn,  Kano-ya ). 
Should  time  permit,  one  might 
even  go  as  far  as  Ikedn,  where  the 
river  is  crossed,  and  push  on  to 

Hashiknra.  The  monastery  for 
which  this  placfe  is  celebrated 
stands  on  a  steep  ,hill.  The  inns 
are  situated  half-way  up,  and  here 
pilgrims  usually  stay.  Those 
curious. to  partake  of  Buddhist 
vegetarian  fare  in  splendid  recep- 
tion rooms,  should  endeavour  to 
obtain  letters  of  introduction  to 
the  abbot.  Without  these,  visitors 
will  only  be  shown  over  the  build- 
ings. The  temple  belongs  to  the 
Shingon  sect. 

[From  Hashikura  a  path  I. 
diverges  to  Kawanoe,  situated 
on  a  big  bight  of  the  Inland 
Sea,  called  the  Bingo  Nada,  1 
day's  journey.] 

After  Ikeda  the  country  becomes 
comparatively,  open,  but  the  cur- 
rent of  the  river  is  still  swift  and 
strong.  It  is  possible  to  reach 
Tokushima  from  Ikeda  in  1  day  by 
boat.  When  the  roads  are  in  good 
condition,  jinrikishas  can  be  taken. 
By  the  time 

Wakiiiiachi  (Inn,  Tango-ya)  is 
reached,  the  valley  has  become 
quite  broad.  The  current  begins 
to  grow  sluggish  at 

Yawata,  from  which  place,  if  not 
before,  it  is  advisable  to  exchange 
the  boat  for  jinrikishas.  There  is 
an  apparently  endless  succession 
of  villages  before  arriving  at  the 
journey's  end. 

Tokushima  {Inns,  *Hiragame-ro, 
Shima-gen,  with  European  restau- 
rant), the  largest  and  finest  town 
in  Shikoku  and  capital  of  the 
prefecture  of  the  same  name,  is 


874 


Route  52. — From  Kochi  to  Tokushima, 


situated  near  the  N.E.  comer  of 
that  island  in  the  province  of  Awa, 
not  far  from  the  celebrated  whirl- 
pool of  Namto  in  the  channel 
dividing  Shikoku  from  Awaji,  de- 
scribed in  Boute  49.  Its  harbour, 
Furokawa,  is  1  r£  off.  The  grounds 
of  the  castle  of  the  former  Daimyo 
Hachisuka,  are  now  converted  into 
a  public  garden.  The  castle  itself 
has  passed  into  the  hands  of  the 
military  department,  but  is  virtually 
dismantled.  The  chief  temples  are 
those  of  Kompira,  Inabe,  and  Ka- 
suga.  Before  visiting  these,  it  is 
well  to  climb  the  heights  behind 
them,  to  get  a  bird's  eye  view  of  the 
town,  of  the  valley  of  the  Yoshi- 
no-gawa,  and  of  the.island  of  Awaji. 
The  coast  of  Kishu  is  visible  in 
the  hazy  distance. 

The  women  of  Tokushima  are 
noted  for  their  beauty.  Indeed,  the 
whole  province  of  Awa  partakes  in 
this  characteristic,  and  the  dress 
even  of  the  peasant  girls  is  as  neat 
and  tasteful  as  their  features  are 
attractive. 

The  hill  called  Semi-yama  is  the 
spot  from  which  Yoshitsune  re- 
viewed his  forces  before  the  terrific 
encounter  at  Yashima. 

An  enjoyable  little  trip  can  be 
made  from  Tokushima  to  NaJca- 
isu-mine,  some  7^  ri  to  the  south- 
ward. If  will  be  found  most  con- 
venient to  pass  the  night  at  the 
vill.  of  Tomioka  (InUy  Tosa-ya), 
6  ri  6  cho  from  Tokushima.  There 
are  two  roads  thither — one  follow- 
ing the  coast,  the  other,  which 
is  less  picturesque,  lying  back  a 
little  among  the  hills.  The  coast 
road  is  rendered  striking  by  its 
rocky  cliffs  and  long  rows  of  grace- 
ful pine-trees.  From  Tomioka,  a 
foot-path  leads  for  about  1  ri 
through  the  rice-fields,  and  cross- 
ing Kaji-ga-mine,  reaches  the  base 
of  Nakatsu-mine ;  whence  it  is  a 
stiffish  climb  of  10  cho  to  the  small 
temple  on  the  summit.  The  view 
here  spread  out  before  the  beholder 
is  deemed  the  prettiest  in  the  pro- 


vince. Especially  delightful  is  the 
prospect  southwards  of  the  island- 
strewn  gulf  which,  under  the 
names  of  Kotajima-minato  and 
Tachibana-ura,  curves  inland  for 
5  or  6  m.,  while  around  it  rise 
wooded  heights,  with  rice-land 
and  hamlets  in  the  hollows,  and 
salt-fields  below. 

Another  excursion  which  may 
be  made  from  Tokushima  is  to  the 
Whirlpool  of  "Namto  via  Okazajd, 
4  ri  21  cho,  whence  boat  is  taken 
to  the  island  of  Ogeyama  along 
whose  sandy  beach  the  whirlpool 
rushes.  It  is  only  possible  to  cross 
over  to  Awaji  during  the  15  min.  of 
the  change  from  ebb  to  flood-tide. 
For  further  details  of  this  cele- 
brated part  of  the  coast,  see  p.  355. 


Route  53, — Outline  Trips  in  Shikokii. 


875 


KOUTE  53. 

OUTI^INE      OF      OTHER      TeIPS       IN 
SHIKOKU.f 

1.  :FR03(I  IMAHABU  to  SAIJO,  BE88HI, 
ANI>  THE  TOSHINO-GAWA  VALLEY. 
:2.  FSOM  MATSUYAMA  TO  NAGA- 
HAMA^  OZU,  AND  UWAJIMA  ON 
THE  WEST  COAST. 

1 .  An  alternative  way  of  reaching 
the  valley  of  the  Yoshino-gawa  is 
to  land  at  Imaharu  on  the  Inland 
jSea,  and  then  proceed  to  Saijo  (InUy 
O-Sakana-ya)  on  the  same  coast, 
whence  the  ascent  of  Ishizuchi- 
yama,  the  highest  mountain  in  Shi- 
koku,  can  be  made.  From  SaijO 
to  the  celebi*ated  copper  mines  of 
Besshi,  the  road  is  fine  and  affords 
■delightful  views. 

These  mines,  situated  in  the  mountains 
•of  the  S.W.  part  of  the  district  of  Uma- 
«5ri  in  the  province  of  lyo,  have  been 
worked  for  over  flOO  years,  and  for  the 
last  two  centuries  have  belonged  to  the 
Sumitomo  family,  whose  present  repre- 
sentative, Mr.  Sumitomo  Kichizaemon, 
ift  said  to  be  the  second  richest  man  in 
Japan« 

Dr.  Naumann  proposes  proceeding 
thence  as  follows: — *From  Besshi 
down  the  Besshigawa  valley  to 
Kawaguchij  fine  scenery  in  the 
lower  part,  where  the  rocky  gorge 
at  Aikawa-bashi,  not  far  from  the 
confluence  with  the  Yoshino-gawa, 
deserves  special  attention.  At 
Kawaguchi  the  Yoshino-gawa  is 
joined.  Proceed  up  the  valley  of 
this  river  as  far  as  Okubo.  This 
part  is  one  of  the  most  beautiful 
in  the  whole  of  Shikoku.  Then  to 
Oedamura-Sugeoi  over  the  moun- 
tains of  Akaboshi,  to  Koyae-daira- 
mura  (from  here  Tsurugi-yama 
•could  be  visited),  Eawai-toge,  Ju- 

t  These  suggestions  are  mostly  taken 
from  a  pamphlet  by  Dr.  E.  Naumann. 


ryo-mura,  Yorii,  Menoki-toge,  Mi- 
tani-mura,  Yokose  (from  which 
place  Tokushima  is  within  easy 
reach),  cross  over  to  Nakagori  by 
the  Tsurugoe,  then  up  the  beauti- 
ful valley  of  the  Nakagawa  as  far 
as  Kaikawa.  From  here  the  old 
highway  to  Kochi  can  be  followed, 
or  a  rough  route  across  the  moun- 
tains to  the  southern  coast  may  bo 
taken.  The  latter  is  as  follows, — 
climb  Sugino-toge,  follow  the  ridge 
down  again  to  the  vaUey  to  Kai- 
nose.  Here  the  traveller  could 
proceed  by  boat  to  reach  the 
coast.  From  Kainose  up  the  valley 
W.S.W.,  where  the  river  has  to  be 
crossed  a  good  many  times  (beauti- 
ful forests  of  cryptomeria).  to  Ogo- 
ya,  up  the  valley  side  and  again 
along  the  ridge.  Banjo  (old  watch- 
house),  down  to  Yamoso-mura,  then 
to  Tanno  from  where  the  coast  can 
be  followed  to  Kochi.  From  Kai- 
kawa to  Tanno  the  road  is  very 
rough  and  mountainous,  but  the 
traveller  will  enjoy  it  very  much. 

2.  A  pleasant  trip  on  the  W. 
coast  of  the  island  is  from  Matsn- 
yama  by  steamer  to  Nagahama; 
thence  up  J;he  valley  of  the  Hiji- 
kawa  to  Ozu  (Inn,  Abura-ya),  a 
neat  town  situated  in  a  plain  sur- 
rounded by  high  hills  and  owning 
an  ancient  castle ;  thence  to 

Uwi^iuia  {Inn,  Imora). 

This  charming,  old-fashioned  place  was 
the  seat  of  a  branch  of  the  Date  family,  re- 
markable alike  for  its  talents  and  its  longe- 
vity. The  grandfather  of  the  present 
Marquis,  who  died  in  18{K),  attained  to 
the  extraordinary  age  of  102. 

The  chief  productions  of  Uwa- 
jima  are  paper  and  iwashi  (sar- 
dines). An  ancient  custom  forbids 
the  catching  of  whales  on  this 
part  of  the  coast,  because  they  are 
supposed  to  perform  the  useful 
service  of  dnving  the  sardines 
towards  the  land.  So  high  is  the 
esteem  in  which  the  sardines  of 
Uwajima  are  held,  that  in  feudal 
days  a  special  boat  laden  with  them 


876 


Route  63. — Outline  Trips  in  Shikoku. 


was  sent  yearly  a*  an  offering  to 
the  Shogun  at  Yedo. 

The  favourite  excursion  from 
ITwajima  is  to  the  waterfall  of 
Nametoko,  about  2  ri  distant.  Uwa- 
jima  communicates  with  Kochi 
both  along  the  coast  and  over  the 
mountains,  as  well  as  by  sea. 
There  is  also  steam  communica- 
tion with  Kobe,  touching  at  several 
ports  on  the  way. 

Tourists  who  arrive  at  Kobe 
from  Nagasaki  or  Shanghai,  with 


the    intention    of  proceeding     by- 
rail    to  Yokohama,  but    who    are 
compelled  to  wait  for  their  For- 
eign .  Office    passports   from    To- 
kyo,  may  find  that  two  or  three 
days  can  be  agreeably  spent  in  a 
cruise  through  the  Awaji   Straits 
and  along  the  northern  coast    of 
Shikoku.     Steam-launches  may  oc- 
casionally be  hired  for  this  purpose. 
There   are  several    tiny   artificial 
harbours    on    these    shores,    with 
atti-active  backgrounds.     Good  an- 
chorage can  Jilways  be  found. 


r" 


; 


SECTION  VII. 


THE  ISLAND  OF  KYUSHU 


Routes  f)4 — 61. 


I  ' 


/S^^ 


BoiUe  54, — Nagasaki  and  Neighbourhood, 


879 


ROUTE  54. 

IN'agasaki  and  Neighboxtbhood. 

1.     na'gasaki.     2.   walks  in  the 

neighboxtbhood. 

Hotels. . —  (Foreign)  Belle  Vue 
Hlotel,  Cook's  Hotel,  both  in  the 
^Foreign  Settlement. 

Japanese  Inns.  —  Ueno-ya,  in 
DAanzai-machi;  Midori-ya,  in  Ima- 
machi. 

Bestaurants.  —  (European  style) 
Fnku-ya,  in  Koshima ;  Seiyo-tei,  in 
^ishi  Hamano-machi  ;  Gwaikokn- 
t;ei,  in  Hokaura-machi. 

Restaurants.  —  (Japanese  style) 
!Fuji-tei,  in  Ima-machi  j  Tamagawa, 
in  Kaxniya-machi ;  Koyo-tei,  in 
£^ami  Chikugo-machi. 

Consulates. — On  the  Bund. 
Passports  for  the  hot-springs  of 
TJreshino  and  Takeo,  Arita  and 
Imari,  Sasebo,  the  new  arsenal, 
and  back  to  Nagasaki  vid  Sonogi, 
Isahaya,  and  the  hot-springs  of 
Onsen  (Uzen)  in  the  Shimabara 
peninsula,  can  be  obtained  through 
the  Consulates.  Eegarding  gene- 
ral passports  for  the  interior  of  the 
country,  see  p.  3. 

CustomrHouse  and  Post  and  Tele- 
graph Office. — On  the  Bund. 

Clubs. — The  Nagasaki  Club,  Bowl- 
ing'Club: 

Banking  Agencies.  —  Hongkong 
and  Shanghai  Bank  ( Messrs 
Browne  &  Co. ) ;  New  Oriental 
Bank  ( Messrs  Holme,  Binger  & 
Co.);  Chartered  Mercantile  Bank. 

Churches. — English  Church,  Me- 
thodist Episcopal  Church,  Re- 
formed Church  of  America,  Boman 
Catholic  Church. 

Newspaper.  —  *  Rising  Sun  and 
Nagasaki  Express,'  published 
weekly. 

Public  Hall.— In  the  Foreign 
Settlement,  x 

TAeaires.  ^Maizuru-za,  in  Shin- 
dftiku-machi ;  Enoki-za,  in  Eno- 
H  za-machi. 

Steam  Communication.  —  Japan 
MaU  Steamship  Co.  (Nippon  Yu- 


sen^  Kwaisha);  Peninsular  and 
Oriental  (Holme,  Einger  and  Co.) ; 
Norddeutscher  Lloyd  (H.  Iwersen). 

Local  Steam  Communication. — 
From  Nagasaki  to  Osaka  vi&  the 
Inland  Sea,  calling  at  Hakata, 
Shimonoseki,  Tadotsu,  and  Kobe, 
daily.  To  Misumi  and  Hyakkwan 
for  Kumamoto,  also  daily.  To. 
Sasebo  every  two  or  three  days 
To  the  Goto  Islands,  Hirado,  Iki» 
and  Tsushima,  weekly.  To  Kago- 
shima  twice  weekly.  Shipping 
Agents :  Tsuru-ya,  Maru-ya,  in  Ye- 
do-machi. 

SUk  Stores. — Fujise,  Shimase,  in 
FTigashi-Hamano-machi. 

Porcelain  Stores. — Koransha,  in 
Deshima. 

Tortoise-Shell  Stores. — Ezaki,  in 
Uono-machi;  Sakata,  in  Kago- 
machi. 

Embroidery. — Imamura,'  in  Funa- 
daikurmaclii;  Hakusui,  in  Kago- 
machi. 

Photographers. — ^Ueno,  in  Shin- 
daiku-machi;  Kiyokawa,  in  Moto- 
Furukawa-machi ;  Setsu,  in  Shin- 
machi. 

Photograph  Shop. — Tamemasa,  in 
Funadaiku-machi. 

Curio  Stores. — ^Mess  and  Co.,  in 
the  Foreign  Settlement;  Hondaya, 
Kyoritsusha,  Sato,  in  Kago-machi ; 
Toraya,  in  Megasaki-machi ;  Ni- 
shida,  in  Funa-daiku-machi. 
_  Bazaars. — In  Moto-shikkui-machi, 
Ohato,  and  Higai^-Hamano-machi. 

History  and  Topography. — Nagasaki  de- 
rives its  name  from  Nagasaki  Kotard,  to 
■whom  this  district,  then  called  Fuka«-no- 
uTft,  was  given  as  a. fief  by  Yoritomoat 
the  end  of  the  12th  centur^r.  It  was  a 
place  of  no  importance  until  the  16th 
century,  when  the  native  Christians 
migrated  thither  in  considerable  numbers, 
and  it  became  one  of  the  chief  sites  of 
the  Portuguese  trade.  After  the  final  ex- 
pulsion of  the  Portuguese  and  Spaniards 
in  1637,  only  the  Dutch  and  Chinese  were 
permitted  to  carry  on  a  limited  trade  here, 
until  the  opening  of  the  country  to  foreign 
intercourse  in  1839. 

The  native  town  stretches  for  about  two 
miles  to  the  N.  of  the  Settlement,  in  which 
direction  is  the  road  leading  to  Shimono- 
seki. From  the  N.W.  jquarter  a  road 
leads  to  Tokitsu  on  the  Omura  Gulf.    A 


880 


Bovie  54, — Nagasaki  and  NeigJiboiirhood, 


l^ood  rood  has  also  been  constructed  to 
Mogi  on  the  Shimabara  Gulf,  the  only 
other  outlets  by  land  being  rough  paths  over 
the  hills.  On  the  8.W.  side  of  the  native 
town  is  Deshima,  the  site  of  the  old  Dutch 
settlement. 

The  present  Foreign  Settlement  occupies 
the  flat  land  on  the  B.  side  of  the  harbour, 
and  has  a  water  frontage  of  from  700  yds.  to 
800  yds.  On  the  picturesque  slopes  of  the 
hills  behind  the  Settlement,  are  the  private 
residences  of  most  of  the  merchants.  On 
the  opposite  side  of  the  harbour  are  the 
factory  works  of  Akanoura  and  the  dock 
of  Tategami,  which,  together  with  the 
patent  slip  at  Kosuge  on  the  E.  side  of 
the  harbour,  belong  to  the  Mitsubishi 
Company. 

The  harbour,  one  of  the  prettiest  in  the 
world,  is  a  narrow  inlet  about  3  m.  in 
length,  indented  with  numerous  bays  and 
surrounded  by  wooded  hills.  It  is  tho- 
roughly sheltered,  and  affords  anchorage 
for  ships  of  all  classes.  The  principal 
approach  is  from  the  N.W.,  between  a 
number  of  islands,  those  conspicuous  to 
the  S.  being  IwDshima  with  its  light- 
house, Okishima  apparently  joined  to 
Iwoshima  but  separated  from  it  by  a 
narrow  boat  passage;  K5yaki-jima  and 
Kage-no-shima,  on  which  last  also  stands 
a  lighthouse.  On  the  N.  side  of  the  chan- 
nel are  Kami-no-shima,  the  site  of  an  old 
grn  battery,  and  Takaboko  (Pappenberg), 
from  the  S.W.  cliffs  of  which,  less  than 
three  centuries  ago,  thousands  of  native 
Christians  are  said  to  have  been  precipi- 
tated because  they  refused  to  trample  on 
the  cross.  This  island  and  Nezumi-shima 
to  the  N.E.  are  favourite  resorts  for  pic- 
nics; The  entrance  of  the  harbour  does  not 
exceed  ^  m.  in  width. 

Nagasaki  is  noted  for  a  kind  of 
jelly  (kin-gyokur-to)  made  from  sea- 
weed, and  for  the  dried  roe  of  the 
salmon-trout  (Jcarasumi) . 

Temples. — The^rincipal  Shinto 
temple  is  that  of  0-Suwa,  known 
to  foreigners  as  the  '  Bronze  Horse 
Temple/  from  a  votive  offering  of 
a  bronze  horse  which  stands  in  the 
courtyard.  From  the  garden  attach- 
ed to  this  temple  a  fine  view  of 
the  city  is  obtained ;  a  large  house 
has  here  been  built  for  the  enter- 
tainment of  distinguished  visitors. 
The  Buddhist  temples  of  Nagasaki 
possess  little  interest. 

Festivals. — Nagasaki  has  always 
been  noted  for  the  mac^ificence  of 
of  its  religious  festivals,  three  of 
which  are  stUl  observed  with  all 
the  pomp  of  former  days. 


1.  The  8uwa  no  Matsuri  (cojamon- 
ly  called  Kunichi),  held  on. the  7th., 
8th,  and  9th  October,  but  liable  to 
alteration,  is  the  grandest  of  all  the 
Nagasaki  festivals.  The  old  Dutch 
writers  never  tired  of  describing 
this  festival,  and  their  accormt-s 
agree  in  almost  every  detail  -with 
the  spectacle  as  witnessed  at  the 
present  day. 

*  This  fete,*  write  our  authors,  *  is  of 
some  days '   duration,   and  begins  with. 
solemn  rites  in  the  temple  dedicated  to 
Suwa.    Flags  and  lanterns  are  exhibited, 
on  all  parts  of  the  temple,  and  all  the 
worshippers    wear   goi^eous   ceremonial 
robes.    The  public  rites  consist  in  placing^ 
the  great  image  of  the  god,  together  with 
the  treasure  of  the  temple,  in  a  magnifi- 
cently gilded  and  lacquered  shrine,  which. 
is  then  borne  in  procession  through  the 
streets,    closely    followed   by  the   chief 
priests  and  a  body  of  picked  horsemen, 
the  latter  being  deputed  by  the  Governor 
to   honour  the    ceremony.     Shrine  and 
treasure  are  finally  deposited  in  a  straw^ 
hut,   especially   bmlt  for   the    (Xicasion. 
Here  they  remain  on  view  for  some  time, 
the  hut  being  open  in  front,  though  par- 
tially enclosed  by  painted  screens;  and 
with  this  conclude  the  prescribed  rehgions 
rites.    Sports,  games  of  skill,  and  thea- 
trical representations  follow ;  great  plat- 
forms are  erected  in  different  parts  of  the 
town,  and  on  these  actors  and  singers  of 
renown  go  through  all  manner  of  perfor- 
mances.   The  expense  of  all  this  is  de- 
frayed each  year  by  different  streets  and 
wards,  and  there  is  the  keenest  spirit  of 
rivalry  among  them,  both  with  regard  to 
the  costliness  and  splendour  of  the  de- 
corations and  processions.    Each  district 
contributing  towards  the  festival  sends 
forth  a  train  of  its  own,  and  evexy  street 
contributes  a  certain  number  of  perfor- 
mers.'— Fischer,  who  was  present  on  one 
of  these  occasions,  gives   the  following 
account  of  what  he  saw :    *  First  goes  an 
immense,  shapeless  mass  of  linen,  cairied 
on  a  bamboo  by  a  stalwart  man,  of  whom 
nothing  can  be  seen  but  his  feet.  '  Mighty 
is  the  load  he  bears,  for  the  cloth  is  full 
twelve  ells   in   length   and  embroidered 
throughout,  forming   one   huge   canopy. 
Then    come    banners   and   embroidered 
ornaments,  covered  with  skilful  needle- 
work representing  some  renowned  man  or 
celebrated  woman,  a   hill   covered  with 
snow,  the  instruments  of  variqus  trades, 
or  scenes  from  ancient  Japanese  histoiy. 
Next    follow    musicians    playing    upon 
drums,   cymbals,    and   flutes,    strangely 
attired,  and  accompanied  by  a  number  of 
servHuts.    These  are  led  or  headed  by  the 
ottona,  the  chief  municipal  officer.    Then 
appears  a  long  train  of  children,  repra> 
senting  some  expedition  of  one  of  their 


Festivals,     Walks  in  the  Neighbourhood, 


881 


iJcado9,  or  clemi-gods.  T\ii8  part  of  the 
sliow  is  most  admirable ;  clad  and  armed 
like  the  warriors  of  former  times  the 
leaders  march  gravely  along,  followed  by 
•fixe  representatives  of  an  Imperial  Court, 
xufile  and  female,  dit^playing  the  greatest 
pomp  and  luxury,  and  surpassing  every 
conception  of  dainty  beauty.  Each  of 
tibese  trains  is  attended  by  a  number  of 
palanquins,  which  are  intended  for  any 
of  the  children  who  may  become  fatigued. 
.Ajfter  these  come  companies  of  actors ; 
every  now  and  then  high  benches  of  equal 
size  are  ranged  along  the  road,  and  on 
"tliese  the  actors  perform  with  great  spirit 
cuad  emphatic  gesticulations.  Their  ac- 
talons  are  accompanied  by  the  music  of 
flutes  and  gyamsen  [ahamigen'}.  When  this 
is  over,  a  crowd  or  miscellaneous  musi- 
cians, palanquins,  servantB,  and  the  rela- 
"tives  of  the  children  follow,  and  this 
doses  one  train.' 

Dancing  by  the  singing  girls  of 
^he  city  takes  place  early  on  the 
morning  of  the  7th  in  front  of  the 
temple  of  Suwa,  and  intending 
spectators  arrive  there  as  early  as 
4  o'clock  in  the  morning  in  order 
to  secure  places  from  which  to 
"witness  the*  sight. 

2.  The  Bon  Matsuri,  or  *  Festival  of 
the  Dead,'  called  by  foreigners  the 
'  Feast  of  Lanterns/  is  celebrated 
from  the  13th  to  the  16th  of 
August,  when  the  graveyards  are 
lit  up  with  lanterns,  and  the  rela- 
tives of  the  dead  resort  thither  to 
perform  their  devotions.  The  hills 
around  the  city  being  covered  with 
graveyards,  the  spectacle  is  most 
impressive.  About  midnight  on 
the  third  night,  a  number  of  good- 
sized  straw  boats,  furnished  with 
lighted  lanterns  and  laden  with 
offerings  of  various  kinds — cuciun- 
bers,  egg-plants,  etc. — are  launched 
from  Ohato  near  the  head  of  the 
harbour,  and  the  spirits  of  the  de- 
parted are  supposed  to  return 
therein  to  their  abode.  But  as 
danger  to  shipping  is  feared  by 
the  authorities  from  the  hundreds 
of  lights  floating  over  the  harliour, 
men  are  placed  in  the  water  to 
break  up  the  boats  as  soon  as  they 
are  launched,  which  somewhat 
mars  the  effect  nowadays. 

3.  The  Gion  no  Matsuri  is  a  fair 
which  lasts  for  three  days.  It  takes 


place  on  the  14th,  15th,  and  16th 
of  the  6th  moon,  old  calendar. 


2. — Walks  in  the  Neighbour-. 

HOOD. 

1.  The  Dockyard  and  Engine 
Works.  Permission  to  visit  the 
above,  one  of  the  largest  engineer- 
ing and  ship-building  establish- 
ments in  the  Far  East,  can.be  ob- 
tained from  the  manager  of  the 
works  at  Akanoipa.  The  Engine 
Works  are  situated  about  half-way 
up  the  harbour,  directly  opposite  the 
Foreign  Settlement.  They  were 
originally  built  about  forty  years 
^^o  by  the  Prince  of  Hizen  under 
the  superintendence  of  Dutch  en- 
gineers, and  were  afterwards 
handed  over  to  the  Shogun's  Go- 
vernment in  exchange  for  a  steam- 
er. After  the  revolution  of  1868 
the  works  passed  into  the  hands 
of  the  Imperial  Government,  from 
whom  they  were  purchased  by  the 
Mitsubishi  Company  in  June, 
1884.  They  have  been  greatly 
increased,  and  the  works  now  cover 
about  6i  acres  of  ground.  The 
Tategami  Dock  is  situated  in  a  deep 
recess  about  i  m.  below  the  Engine 
Works. 

2»  The  Ceniotery,  where  lie 
buried  the  soldiers  who  died  in 
Nagasaki  from  wounds  received  in 
the  Forniosan  Expedition  of  1874 
and  in  the  Satsunia  Rebellion.  A 
service  called  Shokonsha  is  held 
yearly  in  their  honour.  The  ceme- 
teiT^  is  situated  on  a  hill  some  10 
min.  walk  from  the  Settlement,  and 
commands  a  very  pretty  view  of 
the  town  and  harbour. 

3.  Eompira-yamn.  This  conical , 
hill,  rising  beyond  the  N.  end  of 
the  native  town,  is  a  favourite 
resort  of  Japanese  holiday-makers, 
and  is  easily  reached  by  a  path  to 
the  1.  of  the  Suwa  temple  in  a 
little  over  1  hr.  Here  every  year, 
on  the  10th  day  of  the  3rd  moon, 
old  style,  is  held  a  highly  pictur- 


882 


Route  54. — Nagasaki  and  Neighbourhood. 


esque  contest  between  kite-fliers, 
young  and  old,  whose  object  is  to 
cut  down  each  other's  kites  with 
strings  coated  over  with  ground 
glass. 

4.  InasA-yaina  (1,130  ft.)  is  com- 
monly known  as  Eussian  hill,  be- 
cause the  village  of  Inasa  at  the 
foot  is  used  as  a  sanitarium  for 
the  sick  landed  from  E>ussian  men- 
of-war.  It  is  worth  ascending  on 
account  of  the  fine  view  seaward 
which  the  sumijiit  affords.  The 
ascent  is  made  either  from  the  viU. 
of  Inasa,  or  by  a  path  just  behind 
the  Engine  Works  at  Akanoura; 
but  both  paths  are  somewhat  diffi- 
cult to  find  without  a  guide. 

6.  YeniiS  Hill,  ^  hr.  from  the 
Settlement,  is  so  called  by  the 
foreign  residents  from  the  Ameri- 
can astronomers  having  select- 
ed it  in  1874  for  observing  the 
Transit  of  Venus.  It  rises  close 
behind  the  S.  end.  of  the  Settle- 
ment, and  is,  for  the  most  part,  a 
long  bald  ridge  commanding  a  glo- 
rious view  of  the  town  and  harbour 
and  of  the  surrounding  mountains. 
Of  distant  mountains  seen  from 
the  top,  the  most  prominent  are : 
E.,  Onsen-ga-take  on  the  pro- 
montory of  Shimabara ;  and  N.E., 
Taradake  in  Hizen.  The  nearer 
summits  include  Inasa-yama  and 
the  rocky  peak  of  Iwaya-dake  on 
the  opposite  side  of  the  harbour ; 
next  Kompira-yama,  rising  beyond 
the  town,  to  whose  r.  in  succession 
are  seen  the  triple  summits  of 
Shichimen-zan  (commonly  known 
as  *the  Champion');  Hoka-zan,  re- 
cognised by  its  round  top;  and 
Hiko-san,  distinguished  by  a  fringe 
of  trees  crowning  its  summit  and 
extending  partly  down  its  W.  slope. 
Towards  the  S.  is  the  graceful 
sharp  cone  of  Saruta-yama,  to 
whose  r.  extends  a  long  range, 
the  highest  point  of  which  is 
Kawara-yam£^  Looking  seawards, 
the  eye  sweeps  over  a  succession  of 
beautiful  islets,  while  the  horizon 


to  the  W.  is  bounded  by  the  blu& 
outline  of  the  Groto  group.  To  the 
N. .  lies  the  Bay  of  Omura,  and  E. 
a  glimpse  is  caught  of  the  Shima- 
bara Gulf.  By  following  the  path 
along  the  ridge,  other  paths  will  be 
met  with  leading  down  the  valleys 
which  trend  towards  the  ^wn. 

6.  Himi-toge,  an  enjoyable  walk 
there  and  back  of  about  3  lirs., 
is  recommended  to  visitors  pressed 
for  time.  The  return  may  be  made 
by  the  old  path  which  descends 
steeply  from  the  Nagasaki  end  of 
the  cutting  through  the  summit  of 
the  pass,  and  lower  down  leads  by 
the  water-works. 

7.  Mogi      (water    communication 
with  places  heyoTid).    A  pretty  ajid 
pleasant  walk  there  and  back   of 
3  hrs.  Jinrikishas  are  practicable 
the  whole  way  (2  ri).    The  view  of 
the  Shimabara  GuH  from  a  point 
j  list  below  the  deep  cutting  through 
the  top  of  the  hiU  on  the  Mogi 
side,  is  very  fine.  Mogi  itself  is  not 
visible  until  a  turn  in  the  road  to 
the  1.,  at  the  bottom  of  the  valley,, 
reveals    its  position    about    i  m. 
distant.    It  is  a  dirty  village  but 
should  be  traversed,  and  the  walk 
continued  round  the  bay  to  the  r. 
to  a  small  temple  on  a  projecting 
cliff,  with  fine  sea  view.    The  tea- 
house kept  by  Blatsutaro  has  a  pro- 
menade overlooking  the  bay,  and 
provides  European  food. 

Small  steamers  leave  Mogi  daily 
in  summer  for  Obama  (3^  hrs.), 
Kyodomari,  and  Kuchinotsu  on 
the  Shimabara  peninsula,  and  for 
Tomioka  in  the  island  of  Amakusa. 
The  sailings  of  these  steamers 
are  not  to  depended  on;  but  enquiry 
at  Messrs.  Powers'  store  on  the 
Bund,  Nagasaki,  will  prevent  dis- 
appointment. When  these  steamers 
are  not  available  for  Kuchinotsu, 
either  passenger  junks  or  ordinary 
open  boats  can  always  be  obtained. 
The  distance  across  is  13  ri,  and 
with  a  fair  strong  wind  the  passage 
can  be  made  in  8  hrs.    Boats  can 


Sartita-yama,     ToJdtsu,    Itvaya-dake, 


883 


also  be  taken  to  Obama ;  but  the 
distance  is  some  3  ri  longer  than 
fcom  Aba,  the  usual  starting-point, 
(see  p.  385).  A  pleasant  way  of 
returning  from  Mogi  to  Nagasaki, 
is  to  go  by  boat  to  Aba;  time 
about  2  hrs.,  but  depending  on  the 
"wrind ;  thence  on  foot  or  by  jinriki- 
sha  over  the  Himi-toge.  There  is 
Sklso  a  path  from  Mogi  to  Aba, 
'which  follows  the  deeply  indented 
coast  line  and  passes  through  seve- 
ral hamlets.  It  is  picturesque,  but 
long  and  fatiguing. 

8.  Sariita-ynma  (1,418  ft.),  gene- 
rally known  to  the  foreign  resi- 
dents as  '  the  Virgin,'  is  a  promi- 
nent sharp  cone  near  the  1.  of  the 
high  ridge  which  traverses  the 
peninsula  about  4  m.  to  the  S.  of  the 
town. of  Nagasaki.  The  walk  there 
and  back  takes  about  5  hrs.  and  is 
the  prettiest  in  the  neighbourhood. 
The  exquisite  view  from  the  peak 
is  somewhat  similar  to  that  ob- 
tained from  Venus  Hill,  but  on  a 
more  extended  scale.  The  walk 
may  be  varied  by  a  descent  on  the 
aide  facing  the  vill.  of  Mogi  and 
returning  by  the  Mogi  road. 

9.  Urakaini  and  Tokitsn  (water 
communication  with  places  beyond). 
This  is  a  pleasant  walk  or  ride  of 
8  ri  along  the  only  level  road  in 
the  immediate  vicinity  of  Naga- 
saki. The  road  skirts  the  shore  at 
the  head  of  the  harbour,  leading 
up  a  pretty  valley  and  past  Ura- 
kami,  a  village  which,  like  most  of 
the  hamlets  in  this  valley,  is  in- 
habited by  Eoman  Catholics.  In- 
deed, Christianity  seoms  to  have 
never  been  entirely  eradicated 
here,  notwithstanding  the  ruthless 
persecution  of  the  faith  in  the 
first  half  of  the  I7th  century.  At 
the  foot  of  a  deep  cutting  in  the 
hill  before  Tokitsu  is  reached, 
stands  1.  an  overhanging  rock 
called  Sahor-kumkarashi-iwat  '  the 
rock  where  the  mackerel  were 
allowed  to  rot.' 


It  is  related  that  a  fisherman  on  his 
way  from  Tokitsu  with  mackerel  {taba)  to 
sell,  was  startled  at  the  sight  of  this  rock, 
which  looked  as  if  it  were  just  on  the 
point  of  toppling  over.  So  intense  was- 
his  terror  that  he  forgot  everything 
else.  The  rock  did  not  come  down,  but 
the  fish  went  bad,  whence  the  name. 

The  little  village  of 

Tokitsu  (Inn,  Arita-ya)  stands 
on  the  shore  of  _a  picturesque  inlet 
of  the  Gulf  of  Omura ;  but  except 
for  the  beauty  of  the  surrounding 
scenery,  and  for  the  pleasant  ex- 
cursions which  may  be  made  by 
boat  along  the  shores  of  the  Gulf, 
it  offers  no  attractions.  In  return- 
ing, the  road  via  the  hamlet  of 
Nagayo,  also  on  the  shores  of  the 
Gulf,  may  be  t«aken  without  adding 
much  to  the  journey*.  Those  de- 
siring refreshment  or  rest  will 
find  the  tea-house  at  the  XJrakami 
baths  the  best  place  for  the  pur- 
pose. A  stone  pillar  indicating 
the  way,  will  be  seen  on  the  r. 
of  the  road  about  2  m.  from 
Tokitsu. 

Small  steamers  leave  Tokitsu 
twice  a  ^ay,  about  9  a.m.  and  2 
P.M.  for  Omura  5  H,  and  for  Sonogi 
8  ri,  also  going  on  to  Kawatana,  3  ri 
further.  A  second  line  runs  at  the 
same  hours  to  Haiki,  7  ri.  Between 
Haiki  and  Kawatana,  3^-  ri,  is  a 
fairly  good  jinrikisha  road,  and  a 
round  trip  can  be  made  if  desired. 
The  views  on  the  Omura  Gulf 
are  very  beautiful  in  fine  weather. 
Saseho,  the  new  arsenal,  is  3  ri 
distant  from  Haiki. 

10. 1  waya-dake.  This  walk  is  the 
same  as  the  previous  one  as  far  as 
the  stone  torii  which  stands  on  the 
1.  of  the  road  just  beyond  the  ham- 
let of  Nameshi.  The  path  under 
the  torii  leads  through  the  fi&lds 
and  thence  up  the  hill — a  walk 
of  l.i  m.  —  to  a  small  shrine. 
From  this  point,  a  steep  zigzag 
path  ascends  through  a  thick 
wood  to  the  summit.  No  view  is 
to  be  had  until  the  top  is  reached, 
where  the  whole  of  the  sea  face 
of   the  hUl  is  found  to  be   clear 


:d84 


Boute  55. — Excursions  front  Xagasuki. 


of  wood.  Excellent  views  are  then 
obtained  of  the  Omura  Gulf  and  of 
the  sea  towards  Takashima.  Time, 
Shrs. 

11.  HolLJi-zaii.      This     hill    is 
reached  by  following  the  old  road 
to  the   Himi-toge   as  far    as  the 
water-works,  and  then  taking  the 
path  up  the  valley  to  the  1.  until 
the  shoulder  of  the  hill  is  gained. 
Thence  the  path  r.  leads  to  the  top. 
Time,  2k  hrs.    The  view  from  the 
summit  is  one  of  the  best  in  the 
neighbourhood.    The  iniins  of  the 
beacon  form  a  slight  shelter.    Here 
the  first  fire  used  to  be  lighted,  to 
speed  on  to    Yedo   news   of    the 
arrival  of  foreign  ships.     North  is 
the  Omura  gulf;    E.  the  Shima- 
bara    guK    and    Fugen-dake;    S. 
the  open  sea  studded  with  islands. 
Descending  to  the  shoulder,  take 
the  path  to  the  r.  along  the  ridge, 
thence    through  a   wood    into    a 
valley  opening  on  to  the  Sakura- 
Baba  road  close  to  the  new  and 
extensive  Normal  School  buildings. 

12.  Kwaniion-no-taki  {Cascade). 
This  waterfall  forms  one  of  the 

•chief  points  of  interest  in  the 
neighbourhood  of  Nagasaki.  The 
usual  route  is  over  the  Himi-t5ge 
to  the  viU.  of  Tagami,  whence 
the  road  turns  I.  towards  the  hills, 
and  is  practicable  for  jinrikishas 
the  whole  way.  The  distance  from 
Nagasaki  is  about  4  H.  Near  the 
entrance  to  the  temple  grounds  at 
the  foot  of  the  cascade,  a  large  oak- 
tree  almost  overarches  the  way. 
The  courtyard  is  lined  with  stone 
images  of  Kwannon  and  Fudo. 
The  grounds  are  tastefully  laid 
out  with  trees  and  shrubs,  and 
the  steep  slopes  on  the  bank 
of  the  stream  flowing  from  the 
fall  are  built  up  in  terraces  faced 
with  stone,  and  planted  with 
flowering  cherry-trees,  camellias, 
azaleas,  and  maples,  which,  when  in 
season,  give  a  brilliant  colouring  to 
the  scenery.  The  temple  is  dedi- 
'  cated  to  Kwannon,  and  is  said  to 


I  date  from  the  year  1730.  Plassing 
liehind  the  priest's  house,  we  reach. 

.  the  cascade,  a  pretty  fall  shoot- 
ing over  a  rugged  cliff  and 
tumbling  into  a  deep  pool  about 

.  50  ft.  below.  This  picturesque 
spot  is  a  favourite  resort  of 
picnic  parties.  Upon  payment  of 
a  small  fee,  the  priest  will  pro- 
vide accommodation  in  the  room, 
f acinjr  the  f aU. 


ROUTE  55. 

EXCUBSIONS  FROM   NaGASAXI. 

1.  THE  TAKASHIMA,  NAEA-NO-SHIXA, 
AND  HASHIMA  COAL  MINES.  2. 
NAGASAKI  TO  SASEBO.  3.  FROM! 
NAGASAKI  TO  SHIMAJBABA  viA  OB4- 
MA  AND  ONSEN  (uNZEN)  ;  WALKS 
NEAR  ONSEN  ;  ASCENT  OP  FUGEN- 
DAKE.  4.  NAGASAKI  TO  SHIM  ABABA 
Vid  ISAHATA    AND  AITSU.      5.   THB 

baths  of  ureshino  and  takso. 

1. — The  Takashima  Coal  Minbs. 

The  island  of  Takashima,  in 
which  are  situated  the  Takashima 
coal  mines,  lies  about  8  m.  S.W.  of 
the  entrance  to  the  harbour  of 
Nagasaki,  and  Naka-no-shima  and 
Hashima  about  1  m.  f  urt  >  er.  Taia- 
shima  is  only  some  250  acres  in 
extent. 

Until  300  years  ago  it  was  totally  unin- 
hjtbited.  TJie  llrst  people  to  occupy  the 
island  were  a  guard  of  five  otticere,  placed 
there  by  the  Prince  of  Hiz^n  to  preveot 
foreigners  from  landing.  The  mine  was 
first  worked  by  the  Japanese  150  years 
ago.  In  1867,  the  Prini-e  of  Uizen,  in. 
partnership  with  Messrs.  Glover  and 
Co.  of  NagftSHki,  largely  developed  the 
resources  ot  the  mine  by  the  introduction 
of  machiueiy  and  ICuropean  methods  of 
rainiiiK.  'Jhe  workings  have  since  then 
been  extended,  until  the  Takashima  ooliiery 
has  probahly  become  the  largest  iu  Asia. 
it  has  been  in  the  iiands  of  the  enterpris- 
ing Mitsubishi  Ck}mpany  since  April  1881. 


TaJcashima  Coal  Mines.     Saseho.     Onsen. 


885 


All  the  mines  extend  for  a  g■re^t  distance 
under  the  sea ;  and  from  recent  discoveiies, 
it  is  believed  that  a  larpe  field  of  unt( moil- 
ed coal  still  exists,  aui  tlint  the  Takashimn 
mine  as  well  as  those  on  the  "djacent  is- 
lands of  Naka-no-shinia  and  Hashima  will 
■vield  larsre  supplies  for  many  years  to  come. 
The  mine  Hffords  employment  to  over  8,000 
persons,  'i'lie  total  yield  of  Trtkashima  and 
Nakano-shima  for  1888  whs  445,<iOO  tnn.s, 
and  for  all  the  coal-mines  in  Japan  during 
the  same  period,  2,07(),743  tons. 

The  highest  point  of  the  island 
commands  an  extensive  view  for  a 
distance  of  80  m.  seaward,  compri- 
sing the  whole  group  of  the  Goto 
Islands.  A  tug-boat  belonging  to 
the  colliery  company  runs  between 
l^agasaki  and  Takashima  twice 
daily,  and  permission  for  a  passage 
can  be  obtained  by  applying  at  the 
Company's  office  in  Nagasaki. 

2. — Fbom  Nagasaki  to  Sasebo. 

A  small  steamer  leaves  Naga- 
saki twice  a  week  for  Sasebo  at 
about  9  A.M.  Just  outside  the 
entrance  of  the  harbour,  the  island 
of  Pappenberg  is  on  the  right. 
The  course  then  lies  N.W.  almost 
"within  a  stone's  throw  of  the  shore. 
A  large  rock  hollowed  out  by  the 
waves  into  a,  natural  arch  of  colos- 
sal proportions  appears  on  the  1. 
about  1  hr.  later,  as  does  also  the 
island  of  Ikeshima.  At  about  noon 
the  steamer  enters  a  small  bight 
where  the  Seto  Straits,  about  30 
yds.  wide  and  very  picturesque, 
come  in  view  and  suddenly  reveal 
another  way  out.  After  clearing 
the  straits,  the  course  still  lies 
along  the  shore,  till  the  steamer 
enters  a  large  bay  in  which  the 
harbour  of  Sasebo,  similar  in  size 
and  appearance  to  that  of  Naga- 
saki, is  situated.  At  the  upper  end 
of  the  harbour  are  the  brick  build- 
ings of  the  Naval  Station,  the  most 
imposing  structures  of  their  kind 
in  Kyushii.  The  steamer  arrives  at 
Sasebo  {inn,  Harima-ya)  at  about 
6  p.m.  To  make  the  round  journey 
returning  vi^  Haiki  and  Tokitsu, 
for  which  2  days  are  sufficient, 
see  p.  383. 


3. — From  Nagasaki  to  Shimabara 
via  Obama  and  Onsen  (Unzen). 
Ascent  op  Fugen-dake. 

This  excursion  can  easily  be 
made  in  3  days.  It  would  be 
possible,  provided  an  early  start 
were  made  from  Nagasaki,  and  the 
wind  were  fair  for  the  passage  to 
Obama,  to  reach  Shimabara  in  1 
day;  but  travellers  are  recom- 
mended to  pass  the  first  night  at 
the  hot-springs  of  Onsen.  A 
steamer  plies  in  summer  between 
Mogi  and  Obama  (see  p.  382),. 
but  it  is  not  to  be  relied  on. 
It  leaves  about  noon.  Sailing 
boats  are  usually  taken  from  Aba 
for  the  passage  to  Obama. 

[The  best  way  of  reaching  Onsen, 
should  the  weather  be  too 
rough  for  sailing,  is  by  road 
via  Aitsu  and  Obama.  The 
route  as  far  as  Aitsu  is  the 
same  as  that  given  on  p.  389. 
The  roads  are  fairly  good 
throughout. 

The  ascent  is  easy  but  steady 
from  Aitsu  to  a  high  ridge 
overlooking  Chijiwa  Bay ;  from 
this  a  broad  road  degcends  to 
the  shore,  commanding  views 
of  exquisite  scenery.  The  roots 
of  the  fir-trees  at  Chijiwa, 
standing  out  above  the  sand, 
present  an  extraordinary  ap- 
pearance. In  returning  to 
Nagasaki  by  road,  the  traveller 
should  by  all -means  descend 
from  Onsen  to  Chijiwa,  3  ri, 
for  the  sake  of  the  magnificent 
views  on  the  way.] 

Itinerary. 

NA  G AS AKI  to :—        Ri.  Cho.  M. 

Himi 2  18    6 

Aba   10      f 

Obama  (by  boat) 7  —  17 

Onsen    3  —    7^ 

SHIMABAEA    5  —  12 

Total 17  28  43^ 


386 


Route  55. — Excursions  from  XagasaJd. 


JmnMshas  with  two  men  should 
be  taken  to  Aba.  Time  may  be 
saved  bj  sending  ahead  to  have  a 
boat  ready.  The  charge  for  a 
private  boat,  when  three  boat- 
men are  taken,  is  about  f2;  time 
%\ith  fair  wind,  about  3  hrs.  The 
remainder  of  the  journey  from 
Obama  is  best  x>erformed  on  foot, 
though  iMgos  or  packhorses  can  be 
hired  for  the  ascent  to  Onsen  if 
required,  and  kagos  can  be  taken 
from  the  latter  place  to  Shimabara. 

At  Himi  the  road  turns  r.,  and 
10  cho  further  reaches 

Aba  (Inn,  Tsuta-ya),  a  poor  fish- 
ing village,  but  prettily  situated. 
OjTposite  lies  the  island  of  Maki- 
shima,  which  encloses  between  it 
and  the  mainland  a  small  harbour 
where  junks  can  anchor.  The  sail 
across  to  Obama  affords  charming 
views.  In  front  the  various  peaks 
of  Onsen-ga-take  are  seen  to 
advanta<i:e,  and  are  named  in 
the  following  order  from  1.  to 
r. : — Azuma-dake ;  Fugen-dake,  the 
highest  point  of  the  mountain ; 
Taka-dake  and  Takai-iwa,  the  shai-p 
rocky  summit  rising  behind  a 
nearer  ridge  to  the  r.  Looking  back, 
there  is  a  fine  view  of  the  Naga- 
saki peninsula,  whose  bold  steep 
coast  is  indented  with  bays  and 
inlets.  To  the  1.  the  bay  is  studded 
with  wooded  islets  extending  from 
a  reef  off  the  eastern  point  of 
Makishima;  and  in  the  distant 
background  rises  Tara-dake,  the 
highest  mountain  in  the  province 
of  Hizen. 

Obama  (Inns,  Tsuta-ya,  Abe-ya), 
much  frequented  on  account  of 
its  mineral  waters,  which  un- 
doubtedly possess  great  efficacy 
in  rheumatic  complaints,  con- 
sists entirely  of  inns.  The  vill. 
when  viewed  from  the  sea  has  a 
picturesque  aspect,  the  houses  being 
built  on  a  high  stone  embankment 
and  on  rocky  ledges  almost  over- 
hanging the  water.  Unfortunately, 
little  or  no  attempt  is  made  by  the 
inhabitants  to  cater  for  European 


'  requirements.  The  baths  are  de- 
tached from  the  inns*  and  are 
mostly  open  tanks  on  the  rocky 
beach  close  to  the  spring  from 
which  they  are  supplied.  The 
temperature  of  the  water  at  its 
source  is  160^  F.,  but  in  the  batibs 
it  is  lowered  to  106=  P. 

The  road  to  Onsen  first  mounts 
'  a  long  fiight-of  steps  leading  ap  to 
a  Shinto  shrine.     At  the  hamlet  <^ 
Sasa^no-toji,  1  ri  from  Obama^  the 
road  turns  sharp  to  the  L,  and  for  & 
short  distance  is  steep  and  ron^h. 
It  then  emerges  on  to  an   open 
-  slope     commanding '  a     splendid 
'  view  towards  the  Nagasaki  penin- 
■  sula.      The   path    now  winds    to 
the  r.  between  two  slopes  of  the 
ridge,  and  soon  the   conspicuous 
I  cone  of  Takai-iwa  comes  in  sight. 
;  We  next  reach,  1^  ri  from  Sasa- 
.  no-toji,  the  small  plain  of  Fudsn 
j  no-hara    where    Fugen-dake    and 
I  Myoken-dake,  two  of   the  highest 
I  peaks,  come  into  view.   Further  on, 
{  a  path  r.  branches  off  to  the  sul- 
phur springs  of  KojigTOkn  (18  cho), 
where  a    hotel  in    foreign    style, 
called  Shimoda-ya,  has_been  bmlt. 
Soon  the  solfataras  of  Ojigoku  are 
seen  to  the  r.  before  reaching  the 
vill.  of 

Onsen  (Inns,  Yorozu-ya,  Ueda), 
locally  called  Unzen,  2,550  ft.  above 
the  sea,  noted  for  its  sulphur 
springs,  beautiful  scenery,  and 
bracing  air.  The  Japanese  come 
here  to  complete  their  recovery 
after  passing  through  a  course  of 
the  Obama  baths,  and  the  place 
has  of  late  years  also  become  a 
favourite  resort  of  the  foreign  resi- 
dents of  the  treaty  ports  in  China. 
The  baths  are  public,  but  buckets 
of  water  can  be  easily  brought  to 
the  inns,  as  the  springs  are  close 
by.  Here  stands  the  Buddhist 
temple  of  Ichijd-in,  which  was 
destroyed  by  fire  during  the  Chris- 
tian rebellion  of  1637,  and  rebuilt 
on  a  smaller  scale.  It  is  a  poor, 
dilapidated  building.  The-  sol- 
fatfuras  are  the  chief  objects  of  in- 


Onsen.     Walks  in  the  Vicinity, 


387 


"t^rest  at  Onsen,  but  should  not  be 
"visited  without  a  pfuide,  as  the  f  oot^ 
ixig  is  in   many  places  dangerous. 
The  springs  extend  in  one  seething 
a*iid  boiling  mass  for  nearly  a  mile 
along  a  hollow  at  the  foot  of  fir- 
<5lad  hills,  and  the  volume  of  steam 
■which   rises  from   them  forms    a 
striking    contrast    to     the     dark 
evergreen  of  the  background.  Their 
activity  varies  at  different  times, 
'water  which  under  ordinary  circum- 
stances is  thrown  up  from  2  ft.  to  5 
ft.,  being  often  projected  to  double 
that  height.     Fanciful  names  have 
been  given  to  most  of  the  geysers, 
the  finest  being  called  Dai-Kyokwan, 
the   Loud   Wailing"      That  which 
bears  the  name   of   Chutd    Jigoku, 
or  Middle  Class  Hell,  has   a  tem- 
perature of  204°  F.     Several  of  the 
springs  cannot  be  approached  on 
account     of     the     very     insecure 
footing. 

Walks  from  Onsen  (YorozuL-ya) . 

1.  Turn  to  the  r.,  pass  thQ  sul- 
phur works,  keep  to  the  r.,  ascend  to 
the  farm  which  supplies  milk,  take 
the  path  about  30  yds.  to  the  r.  as 
you  face  the  farm,  and  keep  to  this 
steadily  till  the  shoulder  of  the  hill 
is  reached ;  cross  the  shoulder  and 
keep  on  to  the  r.  From  the  top  of 
the  ridge  the  views  are  splendid 
in  every  direction.  Be  suye  to 
visit  each  of  the  three  jutting 
crags  or  peaks  looking  towards  the 
gulf.  Return  the  same  way,  or 
keepii^  to  ther.  descend  by  the 
steep  sneep  track  to  the  road  from 
Chijiwa  to  Onsen ;  keep  to  the  r. 
back  to  Onsen.   2,h'rs. 

2.  Take  the  road  to  the  1.  as  you 
face  the  torn,  pass  the  vill.  with 
water-wheel,  turn  1.,  cross  three 
streams,  turn  up  the  mountain  on 
the  1.  Deep  gorge  and  fine  view  ; 
2  hrs.  (This  is  No.  1  reversed,  but 
it  is  difficult  to  find  the  way  up  the 
mountain). 

3.  Itoad  over  the  hill  to  E.  of  bath, 
i.e.  road  to  the  1.  as  you  face  the 
torii,  but  turning  off  to  the  r.  just 


outside  the  village  of  Onsen.  Keep 
on  over  rising  ground  with  woods 
on  each  side  untU  the  grassy  plain 
at  the  foot  of  Onsen-ga-take  opens 
out.  Take  the  centre  path  straight 
for  the  mountain,  leaving  the  lake 
on  the  r.  Ascend  to  the  ridge 
on  the  r.  taking  care  to  keep 
well  to  the  r.  as  soon  as  the 
paths  begin  to  ascend.  The  ascent 
is  rather  steep  to  the  r.  shoulder 
of  the  mountain  but  the  view 
amply  repays  one  by  its  splendour ; 
3  hrs.  This  is  the  first  part  of  the 
ascent  of  Fugen-dake. 

4.  Take  the  path  to  Kojigoku,  pass 
tlirough  the  village  and  turn  to 
the  1.  under  the  new  Foreign  Hotel, 
follow  the  path  t6  the  grassy  ridge, 
here  turn  to  the  r.,  and  keep  the 
path  right  up  to  the  summit  of 
Takai-iwa,  where  there  is  shelter 
under  a  natural  arch  of  granite, 
with  a  magnificent  view  over  the 
Ku.chinotsu  end  of  the  peninsula. 
This  is  considered  by  many  to  be 
the  finest  view  in  the  district.  An 
easy  walk  for  ladies  and  a  capital 
spot  for  picnics.     3  hrs. 

5.  The  same  as  No.  3  as  far 
as  the  lake,  where  turn  off  to  the 
1.  and  descend  the  first  road 
thi'ough  a  finely  wooded  ravine 
with  a  stream  flowing  through  it. 
Keep  steadily  .on  till  the  water- 
wheel  vill.  is  reached,  then  turn 
1.  and  ascend  to  Onsen.  The 
reverse  of  this  would  be  to  start 
like  No.  2  as  far  as  the  water-wheel, 
and  there  turn  off  r.  and  ascend 
the  ravine,  keeping  round  to  the  r. 
tor  the  return,     li  hr. 

6.  Same  as » above  to  the  lake, 
which  is  passed  by  the  right-hand 
path.  Keep  along  the  path  till  it 
bends  off  to  the  r.,  thence  ascend 
to  the  ridge  in  front,  turn  to  the  r. 
and  return  by  Kojigoku.     2  hrs. 

7.  Same  as  No.  1  to  the  shoulder 
of  the  hill.  From  this  go  to  the  1.; 
keep  on  the  ridge,  descending  until 
the  Obama  road  is  reached  on  the 


888 


Houte  55, — Excursions  from  Nagasaki. 


Fuda-no-hara  moor ;  turn  to  the 
1.,  and  return  either  by  the  Obama 
road  or  by  Kojigoku.     2^  hrs. 

The  road  from  Onsen  to  Shima- 
bara  ascends  steeply  to  a  grassy 
hollow  between  the  peaks  of  On- 
sen-ga-take  1.,  and  Taka-dake  r. 
In  this  hollow  lies  the  Kara-ike,  a 
shallow  tarn. 

[The  path  up  FiigOH-dnke 
here  turns  off  to  the  1.  A  guide 
is  necessary.  The  summit  con- 
sists of  three  peaks, .which  are 
visited  in  the  following  order  : 
— Fugen-dake,  Myoken-dake,. 
and  Onseu-ga-take,  the  latter 
being  the  one  seen  first  after 
leaving  Onsen.  The  ascent  for 
i  hr.  is  a  moderate  climb  to 
the  shoulder  on  the  r.  of  On- 
sen-ga-take.  Here  the  two 
other  peaks  come  in  view.  The 
path  then  descends  through 
thick  brushwood,  and  on  reach- 
ing the  opposite  side  of  the 
mountain,  commences  again  to 
ascend.  In  1  hr.  from  the 
shoulder  of  Onsen-ga-take,  the 
summit  of  Fugen-dake  (4,800 
ft.  above  the  level  of  the  sea) 
is  reached.  Here  stands  a 
perpendicular  rock  50  ft.  high, 
on  whose  N.  side,  being  shelter- 
ed from  the  rays  of  the  sun, 
icicles  are  sometimes  seen  as 
early  as  the  month  of  Novem- 
ber. This  peak  commands  a  very 
extensive  view,  stretching  from 
the  provinces  of  Higo  and  Sa- 
tsuma  on  the  one  hand,  to  the 
distant  group  of  the  Goto  Is- 
lands on  the  other,  and  includ- 
ing, in  addition  to  the  lofty 
summits  of  Aso-san  and  Kirishi- 
ma-yama,  innumerable  bays 
and  islands,  which  together 
form  a  panorama  of  in- 
describable beauty.  The  second 
peak,  Myoken-dake,  is  reach- 
ed in  2  hrs.  from  Fugen-dake. 
The  way  lies  partly  through 
brushwood,  and  passes  a  small 
pond  in  which  gold-fish    are 


said    to  exist.      Turning    the 
shoulder  of   Fugen-dake,   and 
passing  some  caves  for  storing- 
ice,  the  path   descends  into  a 
deep  ravine,  probably  the  ori- 
ginal   crater    of    the  extinct 
volcano,  the  bottom  of  whicli  is 
a  mass  of  huge  boulders  inter- 
spersed with  trees.     Wide  cre- 
vices ahd  slippery  rocks  here 
demand  the  tourist's  care  and 
attention.       The     ascent     to 
Mj'oken-dake  ftom  this  ravine 
is  very   steep.      The   summit, 
like  that  of  Fugen-dake,  com- 
mands    a    magnificent    view. 
The  third  peak,  Onsen-ga-take, 
is   reached  without  difficulty, 
and  the  descent  of  the  moun- 
tain is  easy  and    rapid.     The 
total  distance  from  the  hot- 
springs  of  Onsen   to  the  sum- 
mit of  Fugen-dake   is    called 
3  ri.     Pilgrims  usually    com- 
plete  the  ascent  of  the  various 
peaks  and  the  return  to  Onsen 
in    8    hrs.     The    ascent    and 
descent    could,    however,    be 
made  by  a  good  pedestrian  in 
5  hrs.] 

After  passing  Kara-ike,  the 
road  descends  through  a  fine  rocky 
valley,  the  conspicuous  summit 
of  Takai-iwa  being  seen  ahead.  It 
then'  climbs  a  steep  slope,  and 
brings  in  view  the  Gulf  of  Shima- 
bara  and  several  mountains  in  the 
province  of  Higo.  Below  lies  a 
fertile  plain,  stretching  away  to- 
wards the  S*.  part  of  the  penin- 
sula; a  portion  of  the  island  of 
Amakusa  is  also  seen  towards  the 
S.  The  descent  to  the  plain  is,  for 
the  greater  portion  of  the  way,  down 
a  grassy  slope  amidst  boulders 
and  rocks.  The  latter  part  of  the 
descent  is  precipitous,  through  a 
forest  of  pines,  firs,  and  camphor- 
trees.  On  reaching  the  hamlet  of 
Minokawa  (2  ri  from  Onsen),  the 
road  becomes  less  steep,  and  10  cho^ 
further  the  way  is  fairly  level. 
Beyond  Nakakoba  there  is  a  grand 


Shimabara,     Isahaya* 


889 


Tieiv  of  the  magnificent  precipices  of 
Maeyama  (also  called  Kueyama), 
liBin^  like  gigantic  walls  between 
tli&    town  of  Shimabara  and    the 
main  summits  of  the  volcano.   It  is 
stated,  that   some  time  in  the  last 
century  this  side  of  Maeyama  was 
carried  away  by  an  enormous  land- 
slip and  thrown  forward  into  the  sea, 
burying  at  the  same  time  a  part  of 
the  town  of  Shimabara,  and  forming 
the  innumerable  islets  which,  now 
dad   with  pine-trees,  give  such   a 
picturesque  appearance  to  the  bay. 
Shimabara,  formerly  the  castle- 
town  of  a  Daimyd,  consists  of  two 
large  divisions  Imown  respectively 
as  Minaio  or  *the  Port/  (Inn,  Chiku- 
go-ya)  and  Joka  or  *  the  Town '  (Inn, 
Hashimoto-y a) .  The  traveller  should 
be  careful  to  state  to  which  division 
he  wishes  to  go ;  for  the  two  to- 
I      gether  are  continuous  for  upwards 
of  1  ri  in  length. 

At  Shimabara  occurred  one  of  the  most 
trag^ic  incidents  connected  with  the  perse- 
ention  of  the  Christians  in  the  17th  century. 
Here  the  faithful  assembled  fur  defence  in 
lar^  numbers  fmm  various  parts  of  the 
country,  and  occupied  the  site  of  the  old 
castle,  portions  of  whoue  walls  still  exist, 
and  around  which  mo^«t  of  the  fighting  took 
place.  Wlien  the  Christians  were  over- 
powered, multitudes  of  both  sexes  and  all 
ages  are  said  to  have  been  pushed  from  the 
cliffs  into  the  st>a.  Memorial  stones  m  irk 
the  graves  of  the  officers  of  the  besieging 
force,  the  largest  monument,  about  8  ft. 
high,  being  dedicated  to  the  memory  of  Ita- 
hura.  ^higemasa,  Conimander-iu-C'hief  of 
the  8hdgun'8  army,  who  lost  his  life  in  the 
attack  on  the  stronghold. 

4. — From  Nagasaki  to  Shimabara 
rrid  Isahaya  and  Aitsu. 

Itinerary. 

NAGASAKI  to :—       Bi. 

Himi   2 

Tagami  

Kikitsu  2 

ISAHAYA 1 

Sangen-jaya 3 

Aitsu  

Kojiro  (Nishimura)  3 
Shimabara  Joka  ...  4 
Shimabara  Minato..  1 


Cho. 

M. 

18 

6 

30 

2ir 

18 

6 

31 

4^ 

5 

n 

15 

1 

28 

9i 

8     lOi 
-      2i 


Total 20      9    49i 


This  route  is  practicable  through- 
out for  jinrikishas,  and  two  men 
are  needed  only  when  the  whole 
journey  is  to  be  done  in  one  day. 

Leaving  Nagasaki  by  the  suburb 
of  Sakura  Baba,  the  road  crosses 
the  Himigawa  and  the  ascent  of  the 
Himi-toge  at  once  begins.  The 
road,  diverging  to  the  1.  is  the  old 
route  over  the  pass.  In  the  narrow 
gully,  also  to  the  1.  of  the  main 
road  are  situated  the  new  water- 
works for  the  town  of  Nagasaki. 
Near  the  top  of  the  pass,  the  road 
enters  a  deep  cutting  through  solid 
rocks,  and  on  the  other  side  winds 
d6wn  a  series  of  terraces  built  up 
along  the  steep  face  of  the  hill. 
Many  travellers  walk  over  the  old 
road  to  the  bottom,  instead  of  fol- 
lowing the  tortuous  windings  of 
the  jinrikisha  road.  After  passing 
through  the  cutting,  there  is  an 
excellent  view  of  portions  of  the 
Gulf  of  Shimabara,  the  high  sum- 
mit of  Taradake  in  Hizen,  the 
volcano  of  Onsen-ga-take,  and  in 
closer  proximity  the  bay  of  Aba,  on 
whose  N.  shore  rises  a  conspicuous 
mountain  called  Yagami  Fugen- 
dake.  On  reaching  the  hamlet 
of  Jffimi,  which  lies  at  the  foot  of 
the  pass,  the  road  skirts  the  head 
of  the  bay  of  Aba  for  a  short  dis- 
tance, and  soon  reaches  the  vill.  of 
Tagami,  a  little  beyond  which  the 
road  to  Kwannon-no-taki,  diverges 
h  (see  p.  384).  At  the  Fuji-no- 
Ozaka,  a  hill  about  1  ri  further 
on,  the  scenery  becomes  pretty,  and 
the  bay  of  Omura  soon  comes  into 
view.  Beyond  the  hamlets  of 
Kuyama  and  Kaitsu  the  road 
divides,  the  r.  branch  descending 
to  Isahaya,  the  1.  leading  to  the 
town  of  Omura  (3^  ri).  The  latter 
is  the  main  road  to  Saga,  the 
capital  of  the  prefecture,  and  on 
to  the  Straits  of  Shimonoseki. 

Isidiaya  (Inn,  Maru-ya)  is  a 
small  town  lining  both  banks ^  of 
the  Hommyo-gawa,  a  river  which 
flows  into  the  Gulf  of  Shimabara. 
Sailing  boats  to  Wakatsu  on  the 


890 


Bovte  55. — Eiteumons  from  Nagasaki. 


^ 


Cliikago-gawa  can  be  procured 
here^  uie  passage  taking  about  12 
hrs.  A  Shinto  temple  stands  in 
prettily  laid  out  gardens  on  the  r. 
bank  of  the  river,  and  the  pictur- 
esque little  tea-houses  in  the 
grounds  are  much  frequented  by 
holiday-makers.  The  river  is  span- 
ned by  a  fine  old  stone  bridge. 

On  leaving  Isahaya,  the  road 
crosses  a  plain  to  the  vill.  of  Aka- 
saki  (1^  ri),  and  then  skirts  the 
foot  01  low  hills  as  far  as  the  ham- 
let of  Moriyama,  whence  it  ascends 
a  hill  commanding  a  fine  view  of 
the  plain  that  stretches  away  to 
the  base  of  Taradake.  From  the 
tea-house  known  as  Sangen-jaya, 
we  soon  reach  the  straggling  vill. 
of  Aitsu  (poor  accommodation). 

[An  alternative  way  of  reaching 
Aitsu  is  by  boat  from  Aba,  the 
passage  usually  taking  from  3 
to  3^  hrs.  From  the  landing- 
place,  there  is  a  path  across 
the  isthmus  to  the  vill.,  8  chd, 
where  jinrikishas  can  be  en- 
gaged to  Shimabara  Minato. 
From  Aitsu  a  good  road 
branches  off  1.,  and  leads  round 
the  peninsula  of  Shimabara  vi& 
Obama  and  Kuchinotsu,  the 
itinerary  being  as  follows : 

AITSU  to  :—        Bi.  Chd.  M. 

Chijiwa  19  3 

Obama 2  —  5 

Kita  Gushiyama  118  3| 
Minami  Gushi- 
yama    1  18  3^ 

Katsusa 1  —  2^ 

KUCHINOTSU  1  —  2i 

Minami  Arima.  1  —  2^ 

Kita  Arima  ....  20  H 

NishiArie 1  10  3 

Dozaki 1  15  3^ 

Fukae 1  30  4^ 

Nakakoba 18  3 

SHIMABAEA 

MINATO  ....  1  18  3i 

Total 17    2  41i 


Kuchinotsu  is  a  'special  port' 


for  the  shipment  of  coal  to 
foreign  countries.  Nearly  the 
whole  output  of  the  Miike 
mines  is  brought  down  to  Ku- 
chinotsu in  ju^s,  and  tlience 
exported  to  Shanghai,  Hong- 
kong, etc.] 

The  road  between  Aitsu  and 
Shimabara  for  the  most  part  lies 
near  the  shore  of  the  gulf,  and 
commands  from  different  points 
magnificent  views  of  the  Shima- 
bara mountains.  The  view  across 
the  gulf  i&  also  very  beautifuL 

6. — To  THE  Baths  op  Ubeshxwo 

AND  TaKEO,  V%&  ToKITSU,  OvTTRA, 
AND  SONOGI. 

.  From  Nagasaki  it  is  an  easy 
day's  journey  to  Takeo.  Travellers 
should  start  in  time  to  catch  the 
9  A.M.  boat  from  Tokitsu  (see  p.  383). 
There  is  a  second  boat  daily  abont 
1  P.M.,  by  which  Ureshino  can  be 
comfortably  reached  the  same  day. 
From  Tokitsu  the  steamer  runs 
along  the  coast  to    , 

Omiira,  formerly  a  Daimyo's 
town,  of  neat  and  clean  appearance. 
The  trip  by  water  is  very  pleasant. 
At 

Sonogi  (Inn,  *Matsumori-ya ;  in- 
ferior accommodation  at  one  on  the 
wharf),  jinrikishas  can  be  hired 
to  Ureshino,  3  H.  The  road  lies 
along  a  gently  rising  valley,  the 
slopes  of  which  are  coal-measures 
inclined  at  moderate  angles ;  this 
formation  continues  as  far  as  Ta- 
keo. Half  a  mile  from  the  latter 
place  a  white  porphyritic  rock 
forms  a  mountain  called  Shiro- 
yama.  The  scenery  is  pretty 
throughout.    The  hot-springs  of 

Ureshiuo  (Inns,  *Shio-ya,  Wata- 
ya)  are  situated  on  the  bank  of  the 
river  which  flows  past  the  town. 
The  public  baths  are  enclosed  in  a 
long  wooden  shed,  and  are  divided 
into  three  classes.  The  first-class 
bath  has  three  large  handsome  blue 
and  white  porcelain  receptacles  for 
the  water^  which  is  cooled  before 


Route  56. — Nbrth'Westem  Kyushu. 


891 


admission  into  the  baths,  and  can 
be  let  in  or  out  at  pleasure. 

Takeo  (Innst  Shunkei-ya,  Shoko- 
in-ya)  lies  in  a  valley  3  ri  from 
Ureshino.  The  baths  are  supplied 
from  a  single  hot-spring.  The 
"first-class  bath  can  be  specially 
engaged,  for  periods  of  1  hr.  at  a 
moderate  figure.  The  famous  pot- 
teries of  Arita  are  only  about  6  m. 
■distant  from  Takeo. 

Proceeding  to  Arita,  one  can 
return  to  Nagasaki  via  Haiki, 
whence  steamer  to  Tokitsu. 


1.  The  Ktushu  Eailwat. 


ROUTE  56. 

Theough  North- Western   Kyu- 
shu BY  Bail  and  Koad. 

• 

1.  THE  KYUSHIJ  RAILWAY.  DAZAIFU. 
KUEUME  TO  NAKATSU  BY  THE 
YABAKE  VALLEY.  2.  FROM  KO- 
KURA  TO  DAZAIFU  Vld  HIK0-8AN. 
3.  FROM  FUKUOKA  TO  NAGASAKI 
Vid  IMARI  AND  ARITA.  4.  FROM 
FUKUOKA  TO  SAGA  OVER  THE 
MOUNTAINS.  5.  FROM  TOSU  TO 
SAGA,  AND  TO  NAGASAKI  BY  THE 
MAIN  ROAD. 

The  Kyushu  Eailway  will  shortly 
be  completed  to  Kumamoto,  16  m. 
farther  than  the  present  terminus. 
The  landscape  is  very  fine  the 
whole  way  from  Moji  to  Onga- 
gawa,  after  which  it  is  mostly  flat. 
A  considerable  portion  of  the  line 
skirts  the  sea-shore  as  far  as 
Hakata,  where  it  strikes  inland. 


5  _   • 

Names 

Pi  a:« 

Ofi 

Remarks. 

s 

Stations. 

MOJI. 

3m. 

Dairi. 

7i 

KOKURA. 

m 

Kurosaki. 

171 

Orio. 

20i   !  Ongagawa. 

27} 

Akama. 

( 

34 

Fukuma. 

36i 

Koga. 

42 

KaBhii 

-45* 

Hakozaki. 

47 

HAKATA. 

5H 

Zasshono-knma. 

56 

Futsukaicbi. 

m 

Harada. 

CProposed 

6i\ 

Tasliiro  ., 

3  Jet,  for 
j  Arita  and 
V.  Sasebo. 

65} 
69} 

Tosu  

Road  to  Saga, 

KURUME. 

77}   i  Halnotsuka. 

81} 

Yabesawa. 

_ 

Watase  

("Proposed 
C   station. 

90} 

Omnta. 

98 

Nagasu. 

104 

TAKASE. 

Kokura  (Inn,  Nakamura-ya)  is  a 
long,  straggling,  and  busy  town, 
formerly  the  seat  of  a  Daimyo,  and 
now  occupied  by  a  garrison.  Steam- 
boats ply  daily  between  here  and 
Shimonoseki. . 
Kurosaki  (inn,  Sakura-ya).  Near 
Orio,  the  railway  crosses  a  bridge 
spanning  another  line  connecting 
Nogata  with  Wakamatsu,  a  dis- 
tance of  about  27  m. 

INogata  (Inn,  *Iwada-ya)  is  & 
long  viU.  on  i;he  old  highway 
to  Nagasaki.  The  Mitsubishi 
Company  are  making  it  the 
centre  of  their  extensive  coal 
mining  enterprise.  The  coal 
region  extends  southward  for 
nearly  80  m.,  the  best  coal 
being  found  between  this  place 
and  lizuka  (Inn,  Wata-ya).] 

Near  Ongagawa  a  good  view  is 
obtained  of  the  mountains  on  the 


892 


Eoute  56. — North-Western  Kyushu, 


1.  of  the  line — Kurosaki-yama  and 
Fukuchi-yama — ^the  highest  point 
of  the  line  (300  ft.  above  sea-level) 
being  reached  between  this  station 
and 

Akama  (Inn,  Yone-ya).  Soon  we 
come  in  view  of  the  stretch  of  sea 
called  the  Genkai  Nada.  Just  after 
leaving 

Kashii,  the  hot  miheral  springs 
of  Arayu  are  observed  1.  On  leaving 

Hakozaki,  one  perceives  the 
Shinto  temple  of  Hachiman  men- 
tioned below. 

Hakata  (Inns,  Kaiyo-kwan,  Sa- 
tsnma-ya,  in  Hashiguchi-machi ; 
Toshimi  -  ya  in  Naj  ima  -  machi, 
across  the  bridge  on  the  Fukuoka 
side)  is  the  port  of  Fukuoka,  from 
which  it  is  separated  by  the  Naka- 
gawa.  The  Public  Garden  is  a 
broad  belt  of  fir-trees  laid  out  in 
walks  and  drives.  It  contains  a  me- 
morial erected  to  Hojo  Tokimune, 
the  then  de  facto  ruler  of  Japan, 
who  in  the  13th  century  met  and 
conquered  at  this  spot  Koppitsu 
Setsu,  a  famous  Mongolian  gene- 
ral who  had  seized  Tsushima  and 
invaded  Kyushu.  Hakata  is  cele- 
brated for  its  silk  manufactures, 
called  Hakata~ori,  and  possesses 
several  fine  shops.  On  the  Naka- 
shima,  or  *  Central  Island/  formed 
by  the  two  rivers  which  flow  from 
Dazaifu,  is  the  Kyoshiu-kwan  or 
Public  Hall,  and  the  Club  in  foreign 
style. 

About  I  m.  from  the  Public 
Garden  is  the  celebrated  Shinto 
temple  known  as  Hakozaki  Hachi- 
mangu,  standing  in  tastefully  laid 
out  grounds  with  a  fine  avenue  of 
fir-trees  extending  down  to  the 
sea-shore.  From  this  an  Excursion 
should  be  made  to  Najinia,  about 
8^  m.  by  road,  crossing  a  ferry 
over  an  -arm  of  the  sea  close  to 
the  railway  bridge,  and  turning  1. 
by  the  shore  to  a  slight  elevation 
on  which  stands  a  very  old  tem- 
ple dedicated  to  Benzaiten.  The 
spot  commands  a  fine  view  of 
the  bay  and  islands.    Below,  on 


the  shore,  are  sections  of  a  petri- 
fied fir-tree,  said  by  tradition  to  bo 
the  mast  of  the  junk  in  which 
the  Empress  Jingo  Kogo  was 
wrecked  when  returning  from 
Korea. 

On  the  way  back  to  the  town,  we 
pass  the  dilapidated  Buddhist  tem- 
ple of  Sofukvji.  Here  are  the 
handsome  tombs  of  the  former 
Princes  of  Chikuzen,  the  fixst  of 
whom  was  Kuroda  Nagamasa  (d. 
1623),  an  influential  Christian  con- 
vert, commemorated  in  the  letters 
of  the  Jesuit  missionaries  under 
the  name  of  Simon  Condera. 

The  railway  station  is  at  the 
E.  end  of  the  town.  From  the 
port,  which  has  a  pier  over  400  ft. 
in  length,  steamers  to  Nagasaki 
and  the  south,  and  to  Shimonoseki 
and  Osaka  ply  almost  daily.  All 
information  can  be  obtained  at 
Hayashi  Kiyosuke*s  office  and  inn 
on  the  wharf. 

On  the  other  side  of  the  river  is 

Fukuoka  (Inns,  *Fukushima- 
ya,  Kaiyo-kwan),  formerly  the  re- 
sidence of  the  Kuroda  family. 
Princes  of  Chikuzen,  and  now 
capital  of  a  prefecture  and  a 
flourishing  town  possessing  many 
modern  buildings,  includmg  the 
Normal  School,  the  Post  and 
Telegraph  Offices,  the  Methodist 
School  for  girls,  and  the  Epis- 
copal, Methodist,  and  Independent 
Churches.  The  Daimyo-machi  and 
Tenjin-machi,  extending  from  the 
castle  to  the  Prefecture  (Kencho), 
are  exceptionally  fine  streets.  The 
castle  is  occupied  by  a  garrison  of 
2,000  men.  The  Public  Garden 
(Nishi  Kden)  deserves  a  visit  for  the 
sake  of  the  views  it  affords.  At  the 
base  seawards  is  a  small  shrine, 
and  at  low  tide  a  pleasant  walk 
brings  one  back  to  the  town  round 
the  promontory  of  the  park. 

Atago-san  should  be  ascended,  for 
which  i  hr.  will  suffice.  Jinriki- 
shas  can  be  sent  on  to  the  western 
descent,  whence  continuing  the  ex- 
cursion we  reach  2  ri  further  Mei- 


Fuhuoka.     Dazaifu,     The  Yahake  Valley, 


893 


no-Kama.  From  here  a  detour  should 
be  xaade  to  the  r.  to  a  shrine  of 
BisTuLmionf  situated  at  the  top  of  a 
lofty,  well- wooded  hill,  which  juts 
out  into  the  sea  and  affords  a 
xjharining  view.  Time  1^  hr.  The 
road,  runs  alternately  by  the  sea 
and  through  fir  plantations,  anil  is 
extremely  picturesque. 

There  are  two  waterfalls  in  the 
neiglibourhood.  One,  called  Kwa- 
ran-takiy  is  distant  about  4^^  ri,  of 
which  4  ri  to  the  vill.  of  Ishigama 
■can  be  done  in  jinrikisha.  The 
fall  is  about  100  ft.  high,  and  is  at 
the  source  of  the  Moromi-gawa.  The 
other,  called  Baizan  no  tord-daki  on 
Ikaznchi-yama,  is  3  ri  off  by  jinri- 
kisha and  1^  ri  on  foot. 

Futsukaichi  is  the  station  for 
Dazaifu  (Inn,  Izumi-ya),  one  of 
the  most  celebrated  places  in  the 
south. 

In  early  times  Dazaifu  was  the  seat  of 
the  Governor-Generalship  of  the  Island  of 
Kyushu , — a  post  which,  though  apparently 
honourable,  was  often  used  as  a  form  of 
€xile  for  offenders  of  high  rank.  The 
most  celebrated  of  these  exiled  governors 
¥«i8  Sugawara-no-Michizane,  who  is  wor- 
shipped under  the  name  of  Tenjin  (see 
p.  32). 

At 'Dazaifu  is  a  temple  dedicated 
to  Tenjin  which  is  approached 
through  a  bronze  torii  built  in  1 782, 
and  then  over  a  high-arched  bridge 
spanning  a  large  pond.  The  court- 
yard contains  a  number  of  cows, 
lions, and  owls  in  bronze  and  stone. 
Upon  application  to  the  priests, 
various  relics  may  be  examined, 
such  as  swords  by  famous  makers, 
a  bronze  statuette  of  Confucius, 
and  some  MSS. 

About  I  m.  from  Dazaifu  stands 
the  Buddhist  temple  of  Kwanzeonj% 
founded  in  the  7th  century.  It 
is  dedicated  to  Kwannon,  whose 
colossal  image,  flanked  by  two 
others,  occupies  the  principal  build- 
ing.' A  number  of  interesting 
relics  are  here  shown. 

About  li  m.  from  the  station  on 
the  side  opposite  to  Dazaifu,  is  the 
hot-spring  and  sulphur  bath    of 


Musashirmura,  Above  this  will  be 
seen  .a  prominent  peak  crowned  by 
a  single  fir-tree,  under  which  is 
a  small  shrine.  This  is  Temjpai- 
zan,  where  Michizane,  looking  to- 
wards Kyoto,  worshipped  the  Em- 
peror by  whom  he  had  been  exiled. 
The  view  from  this  point  is  exten- 
sive. The  sights  of  Dazaifu  may 
easily  be  done  in  2  hrs.,  so  that  it 
will  be  sufficient  to  stop  between 
trains. 

Harada  [Inn,  Hizen-ya). 

Tosii  being  the  nearest  station, 
to  the  prefectural  town  of  Saga^ 
travellers  bound  in  that  direction 
will  here  leave  the  train.  For 
Saga  see  p.  896, 

Kiiriiitie  (Inns,  Fukudo-ya,  Ya- 
mada-ya)  stands  on  the  1.  bank  o£ 
the  Chikugo-gawa,  and  was  formerly 
the  seat  of  a  Daimyo  named  Arima 
Gemba-no-Kami.  A  pleasant  walk 
of  1  ^  ri  through  the  suburbs  leads 
the  traveller  to  Kora-san,  a  Shinto 
temple  of  some  note,  whose  grounds 
are  well-kept  and  command  a  fine 
view  of  the  plain  below. 

[From  Kurume  to  Nakatsu  bt 

THE  Yabake  Valley. 

Itinerary. 

KURUME  to :—      Ri.  Cho.  M, 

Yoshii 6  18  15} 

Hida  in  Bungo...     6  —  14} 

Miyazono  6    8  15} 

Hidain  Buzen  ...     3  34    9} 
NAKATSU 3  12    8} 

Total 26  —  63i 


Jinrikishas  all  the  way. 
Time  2  days,  stopping  the 
first  night  at  Hida  in  Bungo 
(Inny  Yamada-ya) .  The  Yabake 
valley,  celebrated  for  its  beauty, 
begins  at  Miyazono.  For 
Nakatsu  see  p.  398.] 

Near,  Omntn,  the  works  of  the 
Miike  coal  mines  are  indicated  by 
the  smoke  rising  fron  them.  Be- 
fore reaching 

Takase  (inn,  Kita-ya),  the  line 


894 


Boute  66, — North'WesUifi  Kyushu. 


approaches  the  sea,  and  good  views 
are  obtained  of  Onsen-ga-take  on 
the  Shimabara  peninsula.  There 
is  to  be  a  station  between  Takase 
and  Kmnamoto  at  a  place  called 

Ueki.  To  the  1.,  just  before  reach- 
ing this,  the  line  passes  below  a 
small  eminence  called  Tawara-zaka, 
crowned  by  a  monument  to  the 
memory  of  the  soldiers  who  fell 
during  the  fierce  fighting  that 
raged  for  eighteen  days  in  this 
neighbourhood  during  the  Satsuma 
rebellion.  The  monument  is  a 
monolith  of  white  marble  brought 
from  Yatsushiro  in  1878. 

2, — Fbom  Kokuba  to  Dazaifu  vid 

HiKO-SAN. 

Itinerary. 

KOKUEAto:—  Ri.Cho,  M. 

Yobuno  4  JO  10^ 

Kawara  2  2  5^ 

Soida  3  11  8 

Hiko-san    4  23  lU 

•    Koishiwara    3  —  7i 

Amagi 6  —  14^ 

DAZAIFU    4  23  lU 

Total  27    33    68 


There  is  fair  accommodation  at 
the  chief  villages  passed  through. 
Jinrikishas  are  only  practicable 
over  some  portions  of  the  route. 
The  road  traverses  a  cultivated 
plain  between  picturesque  hills 
to  Tohuno,  at  the  foot  of  a  ridge 
called  Eyoga-no-hana.  It  then 
crosses  the  Kibi-toge,  commanding 
a  fine  View  of  Kawara  Ichi-no-take. 
From  Saitojo  the  road  ascends 
again,  winding  round  this  peak 
and  round  Kawara  Ni-no-takfe, 
then  descending  to  the  village  of 
Kawara.  Hence  by  jinrikisha  to 
Soida,  up  the  valley  of  a  tributary 
of  the  Masuda-gawa,  which  takes 
its  rise  on  Hiko-san,  and  after 
changing  its  name  several  times, 
as  is  the  manner  of  Japanese 
rivers,  falls  into  the  sea  between 
Kokura  and  Hakata.    From  Soida 


the  road  ascends  the  r.  bank 
of  the  river  to  Masuda,  and  th^i 
follows  its  left  bank  to  Ochiai, 
where  the  river  is  crossed  and 
the  1.  branch  followed  up  a 
steep  ravine.  After  1^^  hr.  walk 
from  Masuda,  that  portion  of  the 
Hiko-san  range  known  as  Sho- 
jiku-take  comes  in  view.  The  path 
now  becomes  rocky  and  ascends  to 
Oiwake,  whence  we  have  a  fine 
view  of  Kambuku-yama,  a  conical 
wooded  peak,  and  of  Shojiku-take, 
a  long  grass-grown  ridge.  A  flight 
of  broad,  rough  steps  leads  to  a 
bronze  torii  at  the  entrance  of  the 
road  to  Gongen  Sama.  This  is  a 
steep  ascent  of  42  cho  by  the  most 
direct  way.    The  vill.  of 

Hiko-Sflii  has  many  good  walks 
in  its  vicinity,  affording  splendid 
views  of  Kosho-san,  Umami-yama, 
Kambuku,  and  other  mountains. 

Frbm  Hiko-san  the  traveller  re- 
traces his  steps  to  Oiwake,  where 
the  road  divides,  the  1.  branch 
leading  towards  the  province  of 
Chikuzen.  As  far  as  Shioi  (baths 
and  inns),  on  the  bank  of  the 
Shioi-gawa,  the  road  is  level.  It 
then  crosses  the  Kaif uku-togp  and 
several  other  hills  before  reaching^ 
the  boundary  between  Buzen  and 
Chikuzen,  8  cho  on  this  side  of 

Koishiwnra,  noted  for  earthen- 
ware of  a  dark  colour,  made 
in  this  n^hbourhood  by  the  de- 
scendants of  Korean  potteife,  who 
are  said  to  have  migrated  hither 
after  the^  conquest  of  their  native 
country  'by  Hidpyoshi.  Descend- 
ing the  valley  of  the  Daikon- 
gawa,  the  road  traverses  a  vast 
plain  of  arable  land  to  Jizogaya, 
before  arriving  at  the  large  town 
of 

Amagi  (Inn,  Mizuire-ya).  Hence 
one  may  either  proceed  by  jinriki- 
sha the  whole  way  to  Dazaifu,  or 
turn  aside  at  Yamae  (Inns,  Take-ya„ 
Kokura-ya),  whence  to  Futsukaichi 
on  the  railway  is  a  distance  of  2  ri. 

For  Dazaif  II  (Inn,  Izumi-ya)  see 
the  previous  page. 


From  Fukuoka  to  Arita  and  to  Suga, 


895 


3. — From  Pukxtoka  to  Nagasaki 

viA  Imabi  and  Abita. 

Itinerary. 

FUKUOKA  to :—  Bi.  Cho.  M, 

Meinohama    2  3  5 

Imajuku 1  17  3f 

Maebaru 1  31  4^ 

fhika)B 2  7  5i 

Mamaeaki  4  9  10^ 

Tokusue 4  —  9f 

IMAKI   w. 4  —  9f 

Arita  3  —  7i 

Kawatana 3  2  7i 

Tokitsu  (by  water)  7  —  17 

NAGASAKI 2  32  7 

Total  35    29    87^ 

Tliis  trip  is  picturesque  through- 
out, and  practicable  for  jinrikishas. 

The  road  leaves  Fukuoka  by  the 
Toricho-bashi,  spanning  the  stream 
which  supplies  the  castle  moat 
and  mere  with  sea-water.  The 
road  on  to  Hamasaki  is  wide  and 
level,  with  beautiful  sea  views. 

JIiielMU*a  (Inn,  Koji-ya). 

[After  passing  through  this 
yillage,  a  jinrikisha  road  turns 
off  sharp  to  the  r.  leading  round 
Ko-Fujiyama  through  pretty 
scenery  to  the  shore,  and 
}>assing  several  villages  to 
Xeiya,  about  2^  n.  Here  there 
is  a  singular  cavern,  which  can 
only  be  entered  from  the  sea 
*  by  boats  obtainable  at  the  vill. 
The  rocks  are  piled  up  in 
columns  and  strangely  fissured. 
The  cavern  is  about  12  ft. 
high  and  iS  ft.  wide,  but  has 
not  been  explored  beyond  a 
depth  of  about  100  ft.  Four 
hours  should  be  allowed  for 
this  detour,  j 

The  road  from  Maebaru  follows 
the  sea-shore,  and  enters  the  pro- 
vince of  Hizen  shortly  before 
leaching 

Hamasaki  (Inn,  Man ju-ya).  Here 
a  road  branches  r.  to  Karatsu 
where  coal  is  extensively  mined. 


From  Toklisne  {Inn,  Manju-ya) 
onwards,  the  road  passes  through 
pretty  scenery  to 

Imari  (Inns,  Nakano,  Kyo-ya). 
This  place,  situated  at  the  bottom 
of  a  small  bay,  gives  its  name  to 
the  porcelain  produced  at  Arita, 
which  is  brought  here  for  export. 
Imari  itself  was  never  a  seat  of 
the  manufacture.  The  road  to 
Arita  is  along  a  picturesque  valley. 

Arita  (several  inns)  is  prettily 
situated  amongst  the  hills.  The 
traveller  should  not  fail  to  visit  the 
potteries,  and  the  quarries  of 
Izumi-yama  where  the  stone  is  dug. 
The  rock  is  crushed  by  levers 
worked  by  water-power.  These 
potteries  were  established  in  1592 
under  the  superintendence  of  a 
Korean  brought  over  by  Nabe- 
shima.  Prince  of  Hizen.  Clay  from 
Hirado  and  the  Goto  Islands  is 
now  generally  used  for  glazing. 

From  Arita  the  nearest  way  to 
Nagasaki  is  by  Jand  to  Kawatana 
on  the  gulf  of  Omura,  and  thence 
by  steamer  to  Tokitsu.  Another 
route  is  to  Haiki,  3  ri,  and  steamer 
to  Tokitsu. 

4. — Fbom  Fukuoka  to  Saga  oveb 

THE  Mountains. 

Itinerary. 

FUKUOKA  to :—  Ri.  Cho.  M. 

Sowara 32    2^ 

Tamura 1  16    3^ 

liba 1  20    3f 

Mitsuze-yama 1  27    4^ 

Sandanda 3  9    8 

Daichigawara 2  13    5} 

SAGA 2  15 

Total 13    10  32i 

Only  9  ri  of  this  road  are  prac- 
ticable for  jinrikishas.  The  por- 
tion between  liba  and  Sandanda 
must  be  walked.  Near  Sandanda, 
at  the  hamlet  of  Matsuo,  is  a  fine 
waterfall  250  ft.  high,  with  a  shrine 
dedicated  to  Kwannon.  There  are 
also  two  or  three  small  spas  in  this 


896 


Route  56, — NoHh'  Westei'n  Kyushu, 


neighbourhood,  of  which  the  best  is 
FuntyM  possessing  several  good  inns. 
Further  noteworthy  are  the  old 
Buddhist  temple  of  Jisso-in,  and  the 
Shinto  shrine  of  Todo-hime,  the 
oldest  in  Kyushu,  quaintly  situated 
by  the  riyer-side  at  the  foot  of  the 
mountains,  and  much  resorted  to 
by  holiday-makers  from  Saga. 

6. — Feom  Tosu  to  Saga,  and  to 
Nagasaki  by  the  Main  Boao. 

Itinerary. 

TOSU  to:—  Ri.  Cho.  3f. 

Nakabaru  1  24  4 

Kanzaki 2  5  5^ 

SAGA 2  2  5 

Ushizu    2  18  6 

Oda 2  5  5i 

Kitataka    2  11  5f 

TAKEO 1  5  2f 

TJreshino 3  24  9 

Sonogi 3  —  7i 

Omura 4  24  Hi 

Eisho 3  —  7i 

Yagami  3  32  9i 

NAGASAKI 3  17  8i 

Total  35    23    87 


\ 


Tosn  being  the  nearest  station 
to  Saga,  travellers  alight  here. 
There  is  an  excellent  jinrikisha 
road  the  whole  way  on  to  Nagasaki. 
Nakabaru  is  a  regular  resting- 
place,  though  it  offers  but  poor 
accommodation. 

Kanzaki  is  a  large  and  flourish- 
ing town,  noted  for  the  manufac- 
ture of  vermicelli  and  maccaroni. 
A  new  direct  road  from  this  to 
Saga  shortens  the  journey  by  1 
ri.  A  fine  bridge  spans  a  tributary 
of  the  Ogawa,  whose  waters  in  flood 
time  in  May  or  June  have  often 
wrought  terrible  destruction  in  the 
surrounding  valley. 

Saga  {Inns^  Hitotsu-ya,  Matsu- 
moto-ya)  is  situated  in  the  centre 
of  an  extensive  plain  famous  for  its 
rice  cultivation.  This  old  and  cele- 
brated castle-town  was  formerly  the 


seat    of    the     Nabeshima    family. 
Princes  of  Hizen,   whose  present 
representative.      Marquis      Nabe- 
shima, now  occupies  the  post  of 
Grand  Master  of  Ceremonies  at  the 
Imperial  Court  and  was  some  time 
Japanese  Minister  to  Italy.     The 
chief  feature  of  the  place  is  the 
Shimbaba    park,    which    contains 
shrines    tx)    the    memory    of    the 
ancestors  of  the  Nabeshima  family. 
Among  them  is  a  fine  white  marble 
memorial  to   Naomasa,  father,  of 
the  present'  Marquis,  who  brought 
it  over  from  Italy.    The  grounds 
are  prettily  laid   out.      The  new 
Police  and  Prefectural  offices  are 
pretentious  buildings   in    modem 
style.     The    old  castle  has    been 
turned  to  various    purposes,  and 
but    few    traces    of    its    original 
grandeur  remain ;    but  a  magni- 
ficent effect  is  produced  in  August 
when     the    extensive     moats    are 
filled  with  lotus-flowers. 

About  ^  ri  N.  of  the  castle  is 
^0710  no  0  Chaya,  the  Nabeshimas* 
country-seat,  which  visitors  are 
shown  over  in  the  absence  of  the 
family  by  courtesy  of  the  custo- 
dian. 

Saga  hfvs  given  its  same  to  one  of  the 
small  civil  wars  which  followed  the  great 
revolution  of  1868,  when  feudalism  was 
making  its  last  struggle  against  Im- 
perialism and  Europeanisation.  £to 
bhimpei,  some  time  Minister  of  Jnstioe 
under  the  new  Imperial  Government,  hav- 
ing returned  to  his  home  in  Saga,  raised 
the  standard  of  revolt,  expectiug  all  Kyn- 
shQ  to  follow  him.  In  this,  however,  he 
was  disappointed,  and  the  revolt  was  put 
down  in  ten  days.  Eto  and  ten  otner 
ringleaders  were  condemned  to  death,  and 
their  heads  exposed  on  the  pillory.  Hus 
took  place  in  1871. 

Leaving  Saga  the  road  traverses 
the  great  plain  forming  the  head 
of  the  Shimabara  gulf,  across  which 
Fugen-dake  can  be  clearly  seen. 
After  passing  the  long  straggling 
viUage  of  Ushizu,  the  road  gradually 
approaches  the  mountains.  Tamor 
guchi  possesses  a  favourite  rest- 
house  half-way  to  Takeo. 

Oda  is  a  busy  village  with  several 
coal-pits  close  by  the  road.     At 


EoiUe  57 .-^N,  E,  Coast  and  Kumamoto, 


897 


«Lbout  2  ri  we  pass  r.  a  large  re- 
serToir  to  supply  the  fields  on  the 
level  sea-shore. 

Takeo  to  Sono^i  (see  p.  390). 
From  Sonogi  to  Omura  along  the 
shore  of  the  gulf  is  a  very  pretty 
ride  of  5  ri.  The  avenue  of  cherry- 
trees  just  before  entering  the  latter 
liOTm  is  a  great  attraction  in  spring 
"to  .visitors  from  Nagasaki. 

Omiira  {Inuy  Kambutsu-ya)  was 
formerly  the  residence  of  a  Dai- 
ray  5,  and  is  still  a  busy  town. 
Tbe  walls  of  the  castle  are  still  in 
good  preservation.  The  finely 
"wooded,  well-kept  grounds  afford  a 
cliarming  place  to  saunter  in. 
Paintings  and  various  other  relics 
of  bye-gone  days  are  here  preserved 
in  a  srnaU  building. 

Leaving  Omura,  a  capital  road 
tlirough  charming  scenery  passes 
through  Eisho,  crosses  a  spur  of 
the  mountains,  and  descends  to 
Isahaya.  The  remainder  of  the 
^vay  en  to  Nagasaki  is  described  on 
p.  389. 

[By  leaving  Saga  at  6  a.m.  with 
two  jinrikisha-men,  the  1.30 
P.M.  boat  may  be  caught  at 
Sonogi.  Should  the  boat  be 
missed,  it  i^  possible  by  taking 
fresh  runners  to  reach  Naga- 
saki the  same  evening,  the 
whole  distance  by  road  being 
30  n  from  Saga.] 


EOUTE  57. 

FeOM    EOEtTBA    TO    OlTA    BY    THB 

NoRTHrEAST  Coast,  and  across 

COUNTRY  TO  KuMAMOTO. 

ASCENT  OF  ASO-SAN  AND  KIMBd-SAN. 
RAPIDS  OP  THE  KUMAOAWA. 

Itinerary. 

KOKURA.  to :—  RL  Cho.  M. 

Igawa 2  —      6 

I^nda 2  —      5 

Gyoji  1  18      3f 

Ohashi 18      H 

Shiida  3  18      8^ 

Matsue  1  —      2^ 

Hachiya 18      1^ 

NAKATSU    2—6 

TJsa-no-Hachiman   5  —  12^- 

Tateishi 3  ^      7^. 

Nobara  2  —      6 

Toyooka 2  18      6 

Beppu 3  18      8^ 

OlTA 3  __      7^ 

Notsubara 3  18      8i 

Takeno-toge  4  —  9f 

Takeda :...  4—91 

Sugabu 2  18  6 

Sasakura 2  —      5 

Sakanashi 2  —      £ 

Boju 1  18      3t 

Shieda  6  18  ISJ 

KUMAMOTO  ...  4  18  11 

Total  63    —  153f 

The  above  distances  can  only  be 
considered  approximate. 

Igawa  is  a  poor  village,  on  leav- 
ing which  the  road  descends  into 
the  valley  to  Shimosone.  Fine 
views  of  the  Inland  Sea  are  ob- 
tained on  the  way.  From  Kanda 
the  country  is  very  pretty  to 
Ohashi,  with  views  of  the  islands 
and  sea.  The  6  ri  take  about  4  hrs. 

Oliashi  (Inn,  Goto-ya,  on  the  far 
side  of  the  town).  From  here  the 
road  ascends  to  a  moor  covered 
with  dwarf  azaleas  for  2  ri.  Two 
enormous  fir-trees  will  be  notici^d 
by  the  roadside,  30  ft.  in  circum- 
ference at   the    ground.       From 


898 


Route  57. — N,  E,  Coast  and  Kumamoto, 


Shiida  to  Mataue  the  road  is  stony 
and  hilly. 

Nakatsn  {Inns,  *Sarasa-ya,  Mi- 
•  hara-ya)  is  a  busy,  thriving  town. 
From  this  to  Yokkaichi  on  the  right 
trill  be  observed  a  high,  detached 
mountain  called  Hachimen-zan  or 
'Eight-faced  Mountain.'  It  is  a 
singular  conformation,  much  re- 
sembling near  the  summit  an  ivy- 
covered  fortress. 

[From  Nakatsu,  a  jinrikisha 
road  passes  through  a  valley  of 
great  beauty  to  Hida,  10  ri, 
from  which  there  is  a  good 
road  to  Eurume,  11  ri.  'The 
road  from  Nakatsu  to  Hida,' 
says  Br.  Naumann,  'presents 
a  very  peculiar  sort  of  scenery, 
which  is  not  met  with  in 
any  other  part  of  the  coun- 
try,— pinnacled,  columnar,  and 
pyramidal  shaped  rocks  are 
everywhere  seen,  and  below 
them  a  rushing  river.  In  fact 
one  might  imagine  it  was  here 
that  the  fantastic  Chinese  style 
of  landscape  painting  origi- 
nated.'] 

The  next  3  ri  are  flat  and  un- 
interesting. The  ground  then  rises 
steadily,  leaving  the  sea. 

Tamashita  (Fnn,  Yodo-ya).  The 
scenery  now  becomes  picturesque. 

Tokkaichi  (Inn,  Tofu-ya,  close  to 
a  temple  of  the  Shinshu  sect).  A 
mile  further  the  road  crosses  the 
Hyakkwan  river. 

Usa-uo-Hachiinan  (Inn,  Okamo- 
to-ya)  lies  at  the  bottom  of  a  basin 
formed  by  surrounding  hills.  The 
road  passes  under  a  fine  large  brass 
torii,  crosses  the  river  in  a  rocky 
ravine  by  a  handsome  covered 
bridge  coloured  red,  and  then 
passes  under  an  antique  gateway 
on  which  are  inscribed  the  names 
of  famous  marksmen  in  the  Genji 
period  (1864-5).  Beyond  this  is  a 
wide  street  leading  to  a  pretty 
park.  Here  are  three  Shinto  shnnes 
dedicated  respectively  to  the  Em- 


perors Ojin  and  Chuai,  and  to  tlie 
Empress    Jingo,     aU    bright    red 
and  embowered  in  trees.    Passing' 
under  an   avenue  of   fir-tree9>    a 
turn  soon  hides  Usa  from  sight,  eknd 
the  road  ascends  for  some  distance. 
Looking  back,  a  fine  view  of  the  sea 
opens  out.    Descending,  the  road 
crosses  a  river  by  a  noble  bridgpe, 
and  soon  passes  the  boundary  that 
separates  the  provinces  of  Bnng-o 
and  Buzen.    As  soon  as  we  enter 
Bungo,  the  scenery  becomes  bold 
and  magnificent,  mountains  rising- 
on  each  side  to  a  height  of  1,000 
ft.    The  road  gradually  ascends  by 
the    side   of    a  river,    and    after 
passing  through  Kanamaru-Machi» 
the  scenery  becomes  more  pictur- 
esque.     At  Mukunoto  is  a  large 
reservoir  formed  by  damming  up 
the  valley. 

Tateishi  (good  inn).  Passing 
Eii;Lzan-bashi,  the  rosid  becomes 
level  and  the  view  gradually  opens 
out.  Descending  a  steep  hiU  we 
reach  Nobara-mura,  from  which  a 
road  1.  leads  direct  to  Hiji;.  but 
that  to  the  r.  is  recommended  for 
the  scenery.  We  next  cross  the 
river  Gogawa  and  walk  for  3  ri 
over  the  moimtains,  a  steep  pull 
of  1  hr.  up  a  good  road  to  the  top 
of  the  Kanagoi-toge.  Here  a  halt 
should  be  made,  and  one  of  the  peaks 
ascended  for  the  sake  of  the  view ; 
10  min.  will  suffice.  South  is  Yufu- 
dake  j  W.  Earaki-yama ;  there  is 
a  magnificent  panorama  of  the 
coast  and  bay  from  Kizuki  N.  to 
Oita  S.,  and  of  the  Bungo  Channel ; 
the  Gulf  of  Oita  lies  below.  The  road 
descends  by  steep  gradients  to  the 
shore.  A  fine  road  winds  round  to 
Oita,  1  m.  from  the  foot  of  the 
mountain.  Wide  sands  extend  for 
the  next  ri  to 

Tanegawa,  a  dirty  village  with 
a  curious  arrangement  of  open 
hot  baths,  one  to  about  every  six 
houses,  on  both  sides  of  the  street. 
The  water  comes  from  the  hot- 
springs  above  Beppu.  Immense 
numbers  of  dwarf  mulberry  trees 


Beppu  and  its  Vicinity. 


399 


:remiiid  one  that  Bungo  is  famous 
<or  its  silk. 

Beppn  (Inn,  Hinago-ya)  is  a  cele- 
l>Tated  resort  on  account  of  its  hot 
liaths.     Every  street  has  a  bath- 
lioase,  as  well  as  the  hotels  and 
;principal  houses.  The  whole  ground 
of    the     semi-circular     flat    that 
girds  the  bay  is    undermined  by 
volcanic  vapours  and  hot    water. 
In  the  suburb  of  Hamawake  on  the 
shore  across  the  river  Asami,  are 
"two  very  large  bath-houses  called 
the  East  and  West  Baths.    Each 
accommodates  about  400  patients, 
the  Ught  of  whom  bathing  is  a 
unique  spectacle.  The  baths,  which 
are  sunk  in  the  ground,  are  gra- 
duated to  suit  all  sorts  of  chronic 
diseases,  and  on    the  piUars  are 
labels  giving  the  requisite  informa- 
tion.  The  sea  water  flows  in  gently 
at  high  tide  and  reduces  the  tem- 
perature.   Visitors  are  warned  in 
the  native  guide  book  '  not  to  kill 
the  ox  whilst    straightening    the 
horns,'  that  is,  not  to  injure  their 
constitutions  to  cure  a  local  affec- 
tion.     The   temperature    of    the 
waters,    which    are    alkaline   and 
chalybeate  with  large    quantities 
of  carbonic  acid  gas,  is  from  100° 
to  132°  F. 

To  the  S.W.  on  the  bay  is  a  lofty 
precipice  called  Takazaki,  easily 
ascended  from  the  land  side,  whose 
summit  commands  a  glorious  view. 

[No  person  eager  for  new  sights 
and  not  over-squeamish  should 
fail  to  visit  the  solf ataras  from 
which  the  hot  baths  are  sup- 
plied, a  distance  of  1  ri  8  chd 
by  jinrikisha  to  the  vill.  of 
Kannawa-mura.  Open  hot  baths 
will  be  noticed  at  intervals  by 
the  roadside.  In  the  village 
is  a  steam  bath-house  which 
holds  16  persons  at  a  time.  It 
is  walled  round  with  stone  and 
roofed  in,  and  there  is  but  a 
small  aperture  for  ventilation. 
The  floor  is  a  lattice,  under 
which  rushes    a    stream     of 


natural  boiling  water.  The 
entrance  is  by  a  low  door 
covered  with  a  straw  mat> 
beneath  a  curious  shrine. 
Intending  bathers  wait  in  a 
lar^e  ante-room  in  a  state  of 
nudity,  each  paying  10  sen  for 
the  day,  and  receiving  a'  tally. 
As  soon  as  one  emerges  from 
under  the  mat,  another  gives 
up  his  tally  and  enters,  each 
stopping  in  for  about  an  hour. 
The  bathers  come  out  covered 
with  droppings  of  mud  and 
rushes  which  fall  from  the 
roof,  and  hasten  to  cool  at  a 
large  pool  on  the  other  side 
of  the  street  under  six  spouts 
of  fresh  water.  Along  the 
sides  of  the  village  streets  are 
to  be  seen  kettles  and  sauce- 
pans set  to  boil  over  holes  in 
the  ground.  Natural  hot  water 
in  large  quantities  flows 
through  pipes  from  the  springs 
above  the  village,  and  opposite 
the  door  of  each  house  is  a  set 
of  holes  for  cooking  purposes, 
covered  with  sods  when  not 
wanted.  The  largest  geyser, 
Umi  JigokUy  is  jJrettily  situated 
under  a  leafy  bank.  It  is  42 
ft.  in  diameter,  and  the  water 
which  is  intensely  green,  boils 
with  great  force,  but  does  not 
rise  above  2  or  3  feet.  An- 
other, called  Ishi  Jigohi,  is  full 
of  reddish  stones ;  and  Bozu 
JigokUy  situated  in  a  wood  of 
flrs  and  bamboos  near  by  is 
also  worth  a  visit.  It  is 
a  geyser  of  light  grey  mud, 
the  noise  of  which  is  deafen- 
ing-] 

Behind  the  town  of  Beppu  rises 
Tsurumi-yama,  the  centre  of  all  this 
volcanic  activity.  It  would  no 
doubt  repay  a  visitor  with  leisure 
to  explore  its  well-wooded  ravines. 
Yufu,  also  called  the  Bungo  Fuji,, 
on  account  of  its  beautiful  conical 
shape,  stands  at  the  back  of  Beppu. 

[Beppu    can    be   reached  from 


400 


Route  57, — N,  E.  Coast  and  Kumamoto. 


Kurume  via  Hida  through  the 
picturesque  Yabake  valley 
(see  p.  393),  about  24  ri.  There 
is  a  fair  jinrikisha  road  all 
the  way.  Iz  is  advisable  to 
sleep  at  Hida.] 

The  trig  by  jinrikisha  from 
Beppu  to  Oita  is  one  of  the  most 
picturesque  in  Japan.  On  the  r. 
are  high  cliffs  covered  with  foliage, 
the  sea  is  far  below,  and  mountains 
rise  in  the  distance.  At  about  1^ 
ri  the  road  passes  through  a  tun- 
nel, and  in  1  ri  more  turns  from 
the  sea  through  shady  groves  to 

Oita  {Inn  by  Mizuno  in  Hori- 
kawa  Machi),  capital  of  the  pre- 
fecture of  the  same  name,  a  large 
and  busy  port  with  long,  dirty 
suburbs.  From  this,  port,  steamers 
run  at  irregular  intervals  to  Shi- 
koku,  Kobe,  Osaka,  and  Shimono- 
seki.  The  chief  manufacture  of 
Oita  is  silk  yar6,  which  is  produced 
in  large  quantities. 

It  was  to  this  place  that  the  Portuguese 
adventurer,  Mendez  Pinto,  found  his  way 
in  the  year  1513  when  he  had  discovered 
Japan,  and  met  with  a  friendly  reception 
from  the  Dainr^o.  The  wonders  or  his 
arquebus,  the  first  explosive  weapon  ever 
seen  by  the  Japanese,  are  still  spoken  of 
by  the  townsfolk.  The  great  Jesuit  mis- 
sionary, St.  Francis  Xavier,  also  spent 
some  time  at  Oita  a  few  years  afterwanls ; 
and  Otomo,  the  lord  of  Fumai,  Ets  Oita 
used  to  be  called,  was  the  first  Daimyo  to 
become  a  Christian. 

About  3  ri  from  Oita  a  curious 
double  bridge,  the  Taurutsti-hashi-^ 
one  low  for  dry  seasons,  and  one 
very  high  for  flood-time — crosses 
the  Hachiman-gawa.  After  this, 
the  road  runs  between  rocky  walls 
covered  with  foliage  to 

Nolsiibara.  One  mile  before 
reaching  the  vill.  there  is  a  saline 
spring,  which  also  contains  car- 
bonic acid  gas.  Notsubara  lies  in 
the  midst  of  a  very  large  crater, 
having  perpendicular  walls  of 
rock  covered  with  vegetation. 
A  river  runs  through  the  crater, 
and  the  road  crosses  it  by  two 
parallel  bridges,  one  much  higher 
.than  the  other.    Oh  crossing  the 


top  of  the  crater  wall,  a  lovely- 
view  opens  out.  The  road  continues 
through  exceedingly  wild  and  pic- 
turesque scenery,  until  at  5  ri  from. 
Oita  it  emerges  on  a  plateau, 
whence  for  1  ri  it  leads  through, 
grand  woods  which  now  and  then: 
give  peeps  of  mountains  behind. 
Again  it  ascends  for  1^  ri  to  a 
pass  where  the  Fujiya  inn  offers 
rough  but  welcome  shelter.  The 
ascent  is  followed  by  a  descent  of  4 
ri  through  well- wooded  country  to 

Takeda  (Inn  by  Eawamura  in 
Teramachi).  This  most  remark-^ 
able  place  which  was  once  a  Dai- 
myo's  seat,  is  shut  out  from  the 
outer  world  by  a  natural  wall 
of  limestone  aboirt  180  ft.  high, 
and  from  20  ft.  to  30  ft.  broad. 
This  wall  rises  almost  perpendi- 
cularly from  the  plain,  and  entirely 
encloses  the  town  through  which 
runs  a  broad  river,  the  Inaba-gawa. 
Access  was  formerly  obtained  by  a 
sloping  path  to  the  summit  out- 
side and  by  a  similar  one  inside. 
About  20  years  since,  seven  or 
eight  tunnels  were  cut  through  the 
rock,  18  ft.  wide  and  20  ft.  high. 
The  southern  tunnel  is  180  yds.  in 
length,  and  has  a  deep  well  near 
the  outer  entrance.  This  tunnel 
is  15  ft.  wide  and  12  ft.  high. 

There  is  no  sign  whatever  of  any 
human  dwellings  as  one  approaches 
the  outside  of  the  rocky  wall ;  but 
then  comes  the  plunge  through 
the  damp,  dark  hole,  and  on  emerg- 
ing into  daylight  one  finds  oneself 
in  the  clean  and  busy  little  town 
of  8,000  inhabitants,  wliich  played 
a  prominent  part  in  the  Satsuma 
Rebellion. 

About  i  m.  outside  the  town 
by  the  southern  tunnel,  is  a  sin- 
gular waterfall  in  a  zigzag,  the 
left  face  200  ft.  wide,  the  right 
forming  an  entering  angle  35  ft. 
and  25  ft.,  the  whole  about  30 
ft.  high  and  called  Shira-takL 
Four  ri  from  Takeda  on  the  east, 
is  a  grand  fall  of  300  ft.,  called 
Chinda,    Prisoners   condemned  to 


Takeda,     Kwnamoto,     Ascent  of  Aso-mn, 


401 


death  were  precipitated  over  this 
xn.  ancient  times^  and  if  they  es- 
ostped  alive  were  pardoned.  Qn  the 
■wrest,  about  4  ri  distant,  is  the 
SKinomizu  fall,  180  ft.  high. 

On  leaving  Takeda,  the  road  gra- 
dually ascenc^s  until  a  ridge  about 
1,600  ft.  above  the  sea  is  reached, 
"wrMch  affords  splendid  views.    No 
accommodation   is  to  be  found  for 
3  ri.     At  Sugdbu  the_road  joins  the 
old  main  road  from  Oita,  now  little 
used.    On  the  1.  rises  Sobo-san,  on 
"fclie  r.  Kuju-san,  and  in  front  Aso- 
san  with  its  pillar  of  smoke.  There 
is  an  inn   at  Sasakura,  soon  after 
leaving  which  viU.  the  road  enters 
a    ravine.      The   descent    is    un- 
usually steep  for  nearly  1,000  ft., 
— ^in  fact  it  is  a  plunge  into  the 
old  crater  of  Aso-san  with  its  hun- 
dred   villages — the  first    about  a 
mile  from  the  bottom  of  the   des- 
cent being 

8akanaslii  ( Inn,  Sonoda-ya ), 
■w^liere  the  night  is  usually  spent. 
On  the  1.  is  Neko-dake,  and  on  the 
r.  the  rocky  wall  of  the  old  crater 
sweeping  round  in  a  majestic 
circle.  One  and  a  half  ri  further  is 
Boju  on  the  way  to  Aso-san. 

Knmamoto,  (Innst  Suigetsu,  and 
others  near  Semba-bashi),  a  garri- 
son town,  formerly  the  capital  of 
the  Princes  of  Higo  and  now  the 
chief  town  of  the  prefecture  of 
Kumamoto  which  comprises  the  two 
provinces  of  Higo  and  Chikugo, 
lies  on  the  Shirakawa,  4  m.  from 
the  mouth  of  that  river.  Having 
53,000  inhabitants,  it  is  the  most 
populous  city  in  Kyushu.  It  has 
fine  streets  planted  with  trees, 
public  gardens,  and  above  all  a 
magnificent  castle. 

This  celebrated  fortress,  which  stands 
on  an  eminence  aTx)ve  the  town,  was  built 
hy  Kat5  Kiyomasa,  and  is  one  of  the 
finest  surviving  relics  of  the  feudal  period. 
The  noble  defence  of  this  place  in  1^77 
1^  Greneral  Tani  was  one  of  the  immediate 
causes  of  the  failure  of  the  Satsuma  Rebel- 
lion under  Saigd.  Instead  of  masking  it, 
and  marching  onwards  to  Kokura,  SaigO 
laid  siege  to  the  castle.  During  the 
weeks  thus  wasted  by  him,  the  Imperial 


Government  had  time  to  hurry  down 
ti-oops  to  oppose  his  further  progress,  and 
after  some  bloody  battles  on  Tawara-zaka 
and  at  Ueki  and  Yamaka  to  the  N.,  he 
was  obliged  finally  to  retire  in  the  direc- 
tion of  Hitoyoshi.'  Crossing  over  into 
Hytlga,  he  endeavoured  to  force  his  way 
up  the  E.  coast  of  KyUsha,  but  was 
checked  again  at  Nobeoka,  where  tlie 
main  body  of  his  anny  was  forced  to  sur- 
render. With  a  few  chosen  companions 
he  escaped  across  the  mountains  back 
to  Kagoshima,  which  he  re-occupied, 
taking  up  a  strong  position  on  Shiroyama 
behind  the  town.  The  Imperial  troops 
were  not  long  in  surrounding  the  rebel  post, 
and  after  a  summons  to  surrender,  which 
met  with  no  response,  an  assault  was 
made  early  one  morning.  After  a  brief 
but  desperate  struggle,  the  survivors  laid 
down  their  arms.  Having  received  a 
severe  wound,  Saigo  submitted  to  de- 
capitation at  the  hands  of  a  devoted 
friend,  more  Japouico.  Thus  ended  the  last 
serious  attempt"  to  oppose  the  develop- 
ment of  the  enlightened  principles  of 
government  that  have  transformed  the 
political  condition  of  modern  Japan. 

At  Kunlamoto  there  is  a  pretty 
park  called  Suizenji,  once  the 
garden  of  the  country  house  of 
the  Hosokawa  family.  It  hes  in  a 
southerly  direction  from  the  pre- 
fectural  office,  and  is  reached  by  a 
road  over  the  Ansei-bashi.  The 
spot  affords  fine  views,  and  the 
dwarf  azaleas  on  rounded  knolls 
are  exceedingly  pretty.  A  spring 
in  the  garden  forms  a  large  stream 
which  is  filled  with  fish.  The  walk 
takes  about  ^  hr. 

One  H  N.W.  of  the  town  is 
situated  the  shrine  of  Kato  Kiyo- 
masa, which  is  reached  by  a  long 
flight  of  steps,  lined  on  either  side  by 
cherry-trees.  The  oratory  contains 
ex- vote  pictures  representing  Kiyo- 
masa's  exploits  in  Korea.  The  tomb- 
is  enclosed,  and  the  courtyard  in 
front  generally  crowded  with  wor- 
shippers from  all  parts  of  Kyushu. 

Excursions  from  Kumamoto. 
Ascent  op  Aso-san. 

Jinrikishas  can  be  taken  to 
Boju  and  back,  by  the  road  which 
runs  by  the  side  of  the  Shirakawa 
and  below  the  level  of  the  old  Ozu 
road.  The  new  road  is  not  so- 
interesting  as  the  old  one,  which 


402 


Route  57. — N,E,  Coast  and  Kumamoto. 


lies  along  an  avenue  of  pine-trees 
300  years  old.  Soon  after  leaving 
Kumamoto,  the  road  descends 
r.  to  the  bank  of  the  river,  and 
straight  ahead  is  seen  the  lofty 
column  of  steam  ascending  from 
Yunotan  half-way  up  the  moun- 
tain. The  whole  distance  to  Boju 
is  11  ri.  At  a  distance  of  71  ri.  from 
Kumamoto  is  Tateno-mura,  situat- 
ed between  two  lofty  mountains, — 
Kitamuki-yama  on  the  r.,  Tateno- 
yama  on  the  1.  At  this  point  it  is 
well  to  leave  the  jinriMshas,  send- 
ing them  on  to  Boju,  and  to  visit 
Tochinoki  8hin-yu  on  the  r.  of  the 
road,  from  which  the  ascent  can  be 
made  viA  Yunotan  to  the  crater  of 
Aso-san  and  the  descent  to  Boju. 

[Should  the  traveller  be  going 
on  from  this  place  to  Oita,  he 
should  go  on  about  ^  mile  be- 
fore leaving  the  road  for  To- 
chinoki and  visit  two  water- 
falls— the  Shiraito  no  taki  and 
Suganiga  no  taki — formed  by 
the  fall  of  the  Kurokawa  over 
a  ledge  of  black  rocks.  They 
are  close  to  the  road-side,  a  nar- 
row path  descending  for  a  few 
yards  to  a  small  jutting  plateau 
crowned  with  trees.  Standing 
on  this,  we  see  both  falls  at 
once,  the  Shiraito  on  the  r.,  the 
Sugaruga,  on  the  1.  Dobin- 
dake  rises  in  the  background, 
the  whole  forming  a  perfect 
picture  whose  rare  beauty  will 
never  be  forgotten.] 

The  road  descends  from  Tateno- 
mura  on  the  r.  about  i  m.,  then  by 
a  zigzag  to  the  river  bank  opposite 
to  Tawara-yama.  Here  two  streams 
meet  at  the  foot  of  a  precipice 
some  500  ft.  high,  clothed  with 
verdure.  On  a  jutting  rock  stands 
the  inn  of  Tochinoki  Shin-yu  kept 
by  Hatashima,  (good  accommocUi- 
tion.)  The  hot-springs  are  close  by, 
with  a  special  jjath  for  foreigners. 
There  is  also  a  tea-house  reserved 
for  high  officials,  with  a  capital 
£ton6    bath.     From  this  place  a 


mountain  path  along  the  ravine 
for  2  m.  leads  to  the  old. 
spa,  where  people  of  all  ages  and 
both  sexes  disport  themselves  in. 
al  fresco  baths  ingeniously  erected 
against  the  side  of  the  hill.  Dee- 
cending  to  the  water  a  few  stejm  to 
the  1.,  we  find  ourselves  opposite  the 
Aigaeri,  a  fine  waterfall.  In  order 
to  save  time,  a  guide  should  be 
procured  at  Tochinoki.  A  steady 
ascent  thence  leads  over  a  g^rassy 
moor  to  Yunotan,  Ik  ri.  The 
view  of  the  valley  behind,  in  the 
direction  of  Kumamoto,  is  remark- 
ably fine.  At  Yunotan  is  a  greab 
geyser  of  red  mud  and  boiling 
water,  varying  from  12  ft.  to  IS- ft.  in. 
height  and  about  30  ft.  in  diameter. 
A  number  of  rough  bath  buildings 
and  a  few  straggling  cottages 
with  primitiye  mountain  inns  for 
visitors  make  up  a  strange  scene. 
From  this  a  steady  walk  of  2  hra. 
takes  one  to  the  summit.  About 
i  m.  from  the  crater  is  a 
temporary  village,  only  occupied 
from  March  to  October  by  sulphur 
workers.  One  or  two  will  accom- 
pany the  visitor  to  the  crater,  iLnd 
show  him  the  best  route  over  the 
cinders  and  scoriee.  On  surmount- 
ing the  ridge,  there  is  a  descent  of 
about  15  ft.  to  a  bed  of  ashes 
which  fills  half  the  cavity.  From 
the  edge  of  this  we  look  down  to 
the  orifice  about  150  feet  below, 
from  which  boiling  water  and 
masses  of  sulphur  are  constantly 
being  ejected  with  great  noise. 
The  guide  will  descend  and  procure 
a  lump  of  crude  sulphur  quite 
hot ;  but  visitors  are  not  allowed 
to  descend  owing  to  the  danger. 
About  forty  people  live  at  the 
village  during  the  summer,  and 
generally  some  fatal  accidents  oc- 
cur in  the  course  of  the  season.  A 
sacred  sword  preserved  in  a  temple 
on  Aso-san  is  much  venerated  by 
the  people,  and  watched  over  day 
and  night  by  an  official  in  antique 
garb. 
The   descent   to  Boju,   2   hrs.. 


Ascent  of  Aso-san  and  Kimbo-mn, 


403 


reveals  the  wonderful  panorama 
of  the  old  crater  out  of  which  the 
present  peak  rises.  '  The  walls 
surrounding  it  are  'about  800  ft. 
high,  the  bottom  seems  quite  level, 
and  there  are  over  a  hundred  vil- 
lages within  its  circumference  of  30 
miles.  Thus  Aso-san  is  probably 
the  largest  crater  in  the  world. 
!Boju  is  at  the  end  farthest 
from  Kumamoto,  about  1^  ri  from 
the  eastern  wall.  The  road  back 
runs  almost  due  west  for  3^  ri  to 
Tateno-mura.  On  the  1.  we  see 
Aso-san  and  Dobin-dake ;  and  the 
pillar  of  steam  from  Yunotan ;  on 
the  r.,  the  old  road  ascending 
to  the  Futa-ai-no-toge.  A  fine 
bridge  crosses  the  Kurokawa  at 
the  exit  from  the  old  crater,  and  1 
ri  further  we  reach  the  waterfalls 
and  Tateno-mura.  _0n  the  1.  a 
road  diverges  to  the  Ozu.road;  but 
there  is  nothing  to  repay  the 
traveller  for  leaving  the  direct 
road  in  the  valley  to  Kums^inoto. 
Starting  early — say  6  a.m.  on  a  fine 
day — and  making  sure  that  the 
guide  takes  a  lantern  and  candles 
for  the  descent  to  Boju  in  case  of 
•delay,  all  can  be  well  done  in  2  days, 
i.e.  from  Kumamoto  and  back. 

Eruptions  of  Aso-san  have  l^een  chroni- 
cled from  the  beginning  of  Japanese  his- 
tory. The  last  was  in  February,  1884, 
when  immense  quantities  of  black  ashes 
and  dust  were  ejected  and  carried  by  the 
wind  as  far  as  Kumamoto,  where  for 
three  days  it  was  so  dark  that  aitificial 
light  had  to  l)e  used.  The  crops  in  many 
of  the  fields  in  the  intervening  valley  were 
destroyed  by  the  ashes.  Great  activity 
also  marked  the  volcano  and  geysers  in 
1889  at  the  time  of  the  earthquake  on  the 
yfith  July,  which  did  much  damage  in 
Kumamoto  and  was  felt  severely  70  m. 
away. 

Ascent  of  Kimbo-san. 

The  ascent  of  this  mountain,  also 
called  Kimpu-san,  2,100  ft.  above 
the  sea,  may  be  made  in  about 
2f  hrs.  from  Kumamoto ;  the  des- 
cent in  2  hrs.  Passing  along  the 
N.  side. of  the  castle  and  keeping 
straight  on  across  the  fields,  the 
track  of  the  railway  now  in  course 


of  construction  between  Kumamoto 
and  Takase  is  crossed.  From  this 
the  way  leads  past  a  steep  little 
hill,  the  sides  of  which  seem  to  be  a 
good  deal  used  as  stone  quarries, 
and  thence  up  a  pretty  valley  by  a 
road  paved  with  large  flat  stones. 
The  path  then  turns  1.,  and  the 
ascent  of  Kimbo-san  begins  at  an 
old  well  by  the  side  of  a  large  new 
wooden  torii  (1  hr.  35  m.).  This 
torii  has  been  erected  to  replace  the 
old  stone  one,  which  'was  thrown 
down  and  shattered  during  the 
terrible  earthquakes  of  1889.  The 
path  hence  to  the  summit  is  very- 
steep  and  generally  bad,  but  the 
views  amply  reward  one  for  the 
exertion  involved  in  the  climb.  On 
the  top  stands  a  small  temple,  the 
stone  torii  here  also  having  been 
shaken  down  and  broken  by  the 
earthquakes  above-mentioned.  Se- 
ismologists, indeed,  considered 
Kimpu-san  to  have  been  the  centre 
of  the  disturbances,  and  an  erup- 
tion of  the  mountain  was  at  one 
time  feared. 

The  view  from  the  top  is  very- 
fine,  taking  in  the  gulf  of  Shima- 
bara,  the  towering  form  of  Fugen- 
dake  on  the  Shimabara  peninsula 
to  the  W.,  the  island  of  Ama- 
kusa,  and  to  the  S.  the  Satsuma 
mountains.  Almost  due  £.  lies 
Aso-san,  with  its  great  columns  of 
steam  rising  from  openings  on  the 
W.  side  and  near  the  summit. 
Further  N.  runs  another  range 
of  hiUs  seen  from  the  1.  of  the  road 
between  Yamaga  and  Kumamoto. 
The  mountain  scenery  is  very  strik- 
ing ;  but  still  more  so  is  the  view  of 
the  great  plain  of  Kumamoto,  the 
city  with  its  picturesque  castle  and 
parade  ground,  and  the  serpentine 
windings  of  the  Shirakawa.  The 
comparatively  small  elevation  of 
Elimbo-san  gives  little  idea  of  the 
extent  and  beauty  of  the  view  to 
be  obtained  from  the  summit. 


404 


Eoute  58. — From  Kumamoto  to  Nobeoka  and  Oita, 


3.  The  Eapids  of  the  Kumagawa. 

For  the  descent  of  these  rapids^ 
one  of  the  most  picturesque  river 
Toyages  in  Japan,  the  traveller 
goes  for  12  ri  by  jinrikisha  to 
Yatsusliiro,  {Inns,  *Matsumura-ya, 
Takata),  where  the  night  should 
h^  spent,  and  then  on  to  Siijiki 
(Inn,  Hashimoto-ya),  from  which 
place  there  is  a  good  road,  3 
ri,  to  Tsu^e  on  the  Kumagawa, 
where  boats  may  be  obtained 
for  the  descent  of  the  river  to 
Yatsushiro.  The  rapids  begin  about 
25  m.  above  Yatsushiro,  and  are 
some  thirty  in  number.  R.  and  1. 
rise  steep  limestone  cliffs,  covered 
with  fine  plantations  of  cryptome- 
rias,  pines,  and  bamboos.  About 
half-way  down  there  is  a  large  cave, 
called  Konose-iwa-do,  with  a  shrine 
inside  and  a  subterranean  stream 
running  through  it.  The  cave  is 
about  250  ft.  long,  the  same  in 
height,  and  200  ft.  broad.  It  is  well- 
worth  landing  to  see.  At  last  the 
river  issues  into  the  alluvial  plain 
bordering  the  sea,  and  the  current 
becomes  slower. 

If  bound  from  Yatsushiro  to 
Nagasaki,  the  traveller  can  follow 
the  Kumamoto  road  for  8  ri,  as  far 
as  Udo,  from  which  point  a  road 
turns  south-west  to  Misumi,  the 
new  port  of  Kumamoto,  6  ri.  Small 
boats  also  ply  on  the  bay  between 
Yatsushiro  and  Misumi. 

In  proceeding  from  Kumamoto 
to  Nagasaki,  one  may  take  steamer 
from  Hyakkwan,  at  the  mouth  ot 
the  river,  or  go  to  Misumi  by  a 
good  road,  9  ri,  whence  larger 
steamers  start  for  Nagasaki  and 
Osaka.  Particulars  may  be  learnt 
at  the  shipping  offices  in  Kuma- 
moto. 


EOUTE  58. 
From     Kumamoto    to    Nobeoka 

AND    OlTA   ON   THE   EaST   CoAST. 

ASCENT  OF  SOBO-SAN;  THE  BAPIDS 
OF  THE  GOKASE-GAWA  AND  THE 
ONA-GAWA. 

Itinerary. 

KUMAMOTO  to  :—  Ri.  Chb.   M. 

Mifune 4  13  lOf 

Hamamachi  (Yabe)  6  31  16| 

Mamihara    5  30  14^ 

Mitai 6  —  14f 

Miyamizu 4  18  11 

Shimmachi 3  —  7^ 

Takeshita 1—2^ 

NOBEOKA  (Si^irs. 

by  boat  or)  6  18  15J 

Kumada  4  7  loj 

Shigeoka 6  —  14f 

Onoichi    2  3  5 

Miya-no-ichi   4  29  llf 

Hosonaga 3  —  7^ 

Tsurusaki    (5    hrs. 

_  by  boat) 

OITA    2  10  5i 

Total 60    15  147i 

Plus  5  hrs.  by  boat. 

[The  above  itinerary  is  that  of 
the  main  road.  In  order  to 
ascend  Sobo-san,  a  more 
northerly  road  for  the  first 
portion  of  the  route  has  to  be 
followed,  namely  to  8hin-yu,  3 
hrs.  journey,  all  by  jinrikisha 
except  the  last  i  hr.  (p.  402).  It 
is  a  walk  of  9  j  ri  from  Shin-yu 
to  Kawachi,  passing  'through 
Shimmachi  and  Takamori  (Inn, 
Sakai-ya),  5  ri  from  Shin-yu. 
From  Kawachi  the  ascent  of 
Sobo-san,  is  made, — a  moun- 
tain by  some  considered  to  be 
the  highest  in  Kyushii,  though 
the  palm  is  more  generally 
awarded  to  Kirishima-yama 
further  to  the  south.  Leaving 
Takamori,  a  climb  of  i  hr. 
leads  to  the  top  of  a  pass,  2,950 


Ascent  of  Sobo-san.     Noheoka, 


405 


ft.  above  thfe  seg,,  a  little  be- 
yond which  Sobo-san  comes  in 
sight.  The  road  onwards  is 
one  of  continuous  ups  and 
downs ;  but  the  country  is  very 
beautiful,  especially  where  the 
path  crosses  a  narrow  valley 
called  Kawabashiri,  2\ri  from 
Takamori.  Magnificent'crypto- 
merias  rise  up  on  the  opposite 
side  of  the  valley,  some  being 
nearly  200  ft.  in  height,  and 
presenting  a  most  imposing 
aspect  when  viewed  from  the 
valley  below.  From  Kaidachi, 
{Inn,  Kaji-ya),  1,500  ft.  above 
the  sea,  the  way  up  Sobo  san 
lies  over  the  Mieno-toge,  2,800 
ft.  high,  and  through  the  vill. 
of  Gokasho,  1«  hr.,  the  actual 
ascent  commencing  at  a  tor- 
rent-bed, f  hr.  from  the  latter 
place.  The  climb,  which  is  very 
rough  and  steep,  especially  the 
last  1,000  ft.,  will  take  a  good 
mountaineer  2  hrs.,  or  o  hrs. 
from  Kawachi  including  stop- 
pages. The  profusion  of  maples 
on  the  sides  of  the  mountain 
opposite  is  a  wonderful  sight. 
From  the  summit  of  Sobo,  6,100 
ft.,  there  is  a  grand  panorama 
of  mountains  stretching  range 
beyond  range  and  peak  be- 
yond peak.  To  the  N.E.  ap- 
pears the  sea  in  the  vicinity 
of  Oita,  and  even  the  island  of 
Shikoku  is  visible  in  clear 
weather.  A  torii  and  a  small 
stone  shrine  stand  on  the  sum- 
mit. The  descent  to  Kawachi 
takes  4^  hrs.] 

It  is  3^  ri  from  Kawachi  to  where 
trhe  main  Nobeoka  road  is  joined  at 

Mitai,  the  whole  way  being 
marvellously  b^utiful,  worthy  of 
Switzerland  itself.  The  same 
land  of  scenery  continues  on 
past  Mitai,  the  road  entering  a 
magnificent  gorge  through  which 
runs  a  deep,  emerald  green  river 
with  rocky  walls  rising  on  either 
side  to  a  height  of  many  hundred 


feet.  These  walls  once  formed 
part  of  a  huge  stream  of  lava 
which  came  down  from  the  crater 
of  Aso-san. 

Miyamizn  (fair  acconunodation) 
is  prettily  situated  among  the  hills 
at  an  altitude  of  600  ft.  The  road 
onwards  follows  the  Grokase-gawa 
to  Shimmachi,  the  copper  mines 
near  which  were  formerly  of  some 
note.     At 

Tnkesliitn,  boats  can  be  taken 
down  the  river,  which  has  some 
foaming  rapids  and  overhanging 
rocks.  The  passage  to  Nobeoka 
takes  about  5^  hrs.  Traps  are  used 
on  this  river  for  catching.trout.  The 
trap  consists  of  a  kind  of  chevaux  de 
/rise,  made  of  bamboo  and  fixed 
transversely  across  the  stream  at 
the  top  of  the  rapids,  the  force  of 
the  water  being  there  so  great 
that  the  fish,  when  once  caught  in 
the  trap,  find  the  current  too  strong 
to  allow  of  their  escape. 

Nobeoka  (Inw,Kome-ya)  is  a  con- 
siderable town  built  on  both  sides 
of  the  Gokase-gawa.  Not  far  from 
the  town  is  the  Nunohiki-taki, 
one  of  the  finest  waterfalls  in 
Japan,  whose  height  is  estimated 
to  be  240  ft.,  its  breadth  30  ft. 

Nobeoka  was  the  last  stronghold  of  the 
Satsuma  reljels.  On  the  14th  Auglist, 
1877,  the  town  surrendered,  8,000  insur- 
gents, among  whom  nearly  3,000  wounded, 
fiving  themselves  up.  The  rebel  chief 
aigo,  \\'ith  50<)  devoted  followers,  fought 
his  way  out  and  escaped  to  Klagoshima. 

Though  much  less  beautiful  than 
the  first  half  of  the  journey,  the 
second  half  from  Nobeoka  to  Oita 
is  yet  not  devoid  of  interest.  On 
leaving  Nobeoka,  the  road  follows 
up  the  Kitagawa  from  its  mouth 
until  it  becomes  a  tiny  rill.  The 
Akamatsu-toge,  1,250  ft.  above  the 
sea,  is  passed  about  1  ri  before 
reaching 

Shiureoka  (poor  accommodation). 
The  chief  feature  of  the  next  day's 
journey  consists  in  the  high  passes 
that  have  to  be  crossed — first  the 
Ono-ichi-toge,  where  a  fierce  battle 
was  fought  during  the    Satsuma 


406 


Route  59. — Nagasaki  to  Kagosldma. 


Rebellion,  and  the  Miknni-tdge, 
2,150  ft.  hieh,  so-called  because 
portions  of  the  three  provinces  of 
Hynga,  Bnn^o,  and  Higo  are 
Tisible  from  the  top.  The  view  is  a 
very  fine  one. 

On  the  top  of  the  Miknni-tdge  is  the 
irrave  of  the  Daimyd  of  Mimizn,  who, 
daring  the  Rebellion,  was  surprised  by  the 
Imperial  troops  in  a  mde  fort  which  he 
haa  coDStmcted,  and  tc^ther  with  his 
followers  was  captured  and  slain. 

From  the  summit  of  the  pass  to 

.Hijra-no-i(*lli  {Inn,  *Puji-ya)  is 
about  2  ri  of  constant  ascents  and 
descents.  Quitting  this  town,  the 
road  at  first  passes  along  a  fine 
avenue  of  cryptomerias,  and  then 
descends  to  meet  the  river  Onagawa 
at  Ho8onaga,  a  small  cluster  of 
houses.  Travellers  here  usually 
abandon  the  road,  and  engage  a 
boat  for  the  rest  of  the  way  to  T»U' 
rusahi  on  the  coast,  whence  by 
jinrikisha  to 

oita.    See  p.  400. 

The  voyage  down  the  river  in- 
cludes the  shooting  of  a  remark- 
ably fine  rapid. 

If  it  be  wished  to  shorten  this 
trip  and  yet  retain  the  best  part 
of  it,  the  boat  journey  from  Hoso- 
naga  may  stop  at  Ichiba,  only  an 
hour  or  so  down  the  river  and 
including  the  finest  rapid,  from 
which  place  there  is  a  road  almost 
due  W.  to  Takeda,  the  distance 
being  about  7|  ri. 


ROUTE  59. 

Fbom  Naqasaki  to  Kaqokhtita. 
volcano  of  sakuba-jika. 

Kagoshima  may  be  reached  from 
Nagaisaki  by  steamers  leaving  twice 
weekly.  Another  route  presenting 
more  variety,  but  occupying  from 
5  to  6  days,  is  as  follows. 

Itineraty, 

NAGASAKI  to :—  Ei.  Cho.  Jf. 

Mogi 2—5 

Oni  -  no  -  ike,     in 

Amakusa     (by 

boat) 13    —    311 

Hondo.. 3—71 

Ota 5    —    12 

Komenotsu,    ( by 

boat) 16    —    361 

Affune 5    24     13f 

Nishikata 3    12      7f 

Mukoda 4    —    lOi^ 

Ichiku,  (Minato).  4      4    lOi 

Ijuin 3    17      8i 

KAGOSHIMA...  4    17    1(^ 

Total 63      2  153f 

The  land  portion  of  this  journey 
is  best  performed  on  foot ;  but  pack- 
horses  can  be  taken  from  Hondo  to 
Ota,  and  from  Kome^no-tsu  to 
Kagoshima.  Jinrikishas  can  also 
be  got  for  the  last  2  ri  before 
reaching  Kagoshima. 

An  alternative  way  is  to  take 
boat  direct  from  Mogi  to  Agune, 
passing  the  night,  if  necessary,  at 
Ushibuka  at  the  S.  end  of  Amakusa. 

For  the  road  to  Mogfi,  see  p.  382. 
Here  a  roomy  boat  should  be  en- 
gaged for  the  passage  to  Oni-no-Ae 
at  the  N.  end  of  the  island  of 
Amakusa,  and  arrangements  should 
be  made  for  spending  the  night  on 
board.  In  fine  weather  the  passage 
across  will  be  found  very  enjoyable, 
there  being  beautiful  views  both 
of  Onsen-ga-take  and  the  Nagasaki 
peninsula.  On  the  following  morn- 
ing the  start  is  made  by  a  fairly 


Kagoshuna. 


407 


good  road  which  skirfcs  the  shore 
to     th.e    village    of    Oshima,  and 
then    traverses  highly   cultivated 
country  to  Hondo,     Thence  it  con- 
tinues   in  a    southerly    direction, 
partly  along  the  coast  and  partly 
over  liills,  to  the  little  fishing  vil- 
lage of  Ota,  where  a  boat  must  be 
engaged  for  the  passage  to  Konie- 
i\o-t»u,  (fair  accommodation),  a  small 
port    at   the    mouth   of    a    river 
on  the  northern  coast  of  Satsuma. 
The  road  now  strikes  inland.   From 
the  viU.  of  Fumoto,  1  ri  f urf her,  it 
is  lined  for  many  miles  with  fine 
<sryptomerias,  and  charming  views 
are  obtained  after  it  rejoins  the 
sea  at 

Ag^me  (comfortable  accommoda- 
;  tion).  The  road  now  passes  up  a 
!  narrow  valley,  having  salt-pans 
I  fed  by  natural  salt-springs  among 
I  the  rice-fields.  The  rest  of  the 
way  is  up  and  down  hill  to 
"SiihilcaJtat  a  small  town  prettily 
situated  on  the  shore.  Here  the 
road  again  leaves  the  shore,  and 
passes  over  two  steep  hills  into  a 
lovely  valley.  Sendai  and  Mukdd4i 
are  situated  on  opposite  banks 
of  the  Sendai-gawa.  This  neigh- 
bourhood witnessed  some  fighting 
during  the  rebellion.  On  the  way 
from  Mukoda  to  Ichiku,  a  town  on 
the  Gulf  of  Kagoshima,  there  is  a 
silver  mine,  just  before  Koshi-no- 
Fumoto  is  passed.  From  Ichiku 
the  road  lies  on  the  inner  side  of 
an  embankment,  and  then  rises 
on  to  high  ground  commanding  a 
magnificent  view  of  the  volcano  of 
Sakura-jima.  Tsuboya,  a  vill.  of 
Korean  origin,  lies  a  little  way  off 
the  main  road.  From  Ijuin  the 
walk  to  Kagoshima  is  along  a  high 
plateau,  with  a  view  extending 
over  a  succession  of  fine  mountains. 
We  descend  steeply  just  before 
entering  the  town  of  Kagoshima. 

Kagoshima  {Inns,  Eakumei- 
kwan,  Banshd-tei ;  Okabe-ya,  near 
the  landing-place),  capital  of  the 
prefecture  of  the  same  name,  stimds 
on  the   W.    shore  of   the   tnost 


southern  g^ulf  in  Japan,  opposite 
the  volcanic  island  of  Sakura-jima* 

Kagofihima,  one  of  the  most  ancient 
cities  in  Japan,  was  long  the  scat  of  the 
Shimazu  family,  lords  of  Satsuma,  Osmni, 
and  part  of  Hyfiga,  and  suzerains  of  Loo- 
choo.  It  was  a  centre  of  great  political 
activity  between  the  year  1854,  when  the 
first  treaty  with  the  United  States  was  con- 
cluded, and  the  revolution  of  1868,  which 
was  in  a  great  measure  brought  aboofr 
by  the  energy  and  determination  of  the 
Satsuma  mea.  On  the  16th  August,  18tf8» 
it  was  1x)mbarded  by  a  British  squadron, 
of  seven  ships  under  Admiral  Kuper,  and 
a  large  part  of  the  town  was  burnt,  in 
conseciuence  of  the  Prince  of  Satsum* 
having  refused  satisfaction  for  the  murder 
of  Richardson  in  1862.  Most  of  the  forta 
were  dismantled,  in  spite  of  a  typhoon, 
which  raged  throughout  the  day ;  but  the 
squadron  also  suffered  considerably.  The 
captain  and  commander  of  the  flagship 
were  killed  on  the  bridge  by  a  round  shot, 
and  the  total  loss  in  killed  and  wounded 
was  68.  After  the  revolution,  many  of 
the  Satsuma  leaders  became  dissatisfied 
with  the  progressive  policy  of  the  Imperial 
government,  and  their  discontent  culmi- 
nated in  1877  in  a  rebellion,  headed  by 
Saigd  Takamori  and  others  who  had 
fought  by  his  side  against  the  ShOgunate 
and  in  favour  of  the  restoration  of  the 
Mikado  to  supreme  power  in  1868-9.  Ife 
was  suppressed  after  some  eight  or  mne 
months  warfare,  and  the  town  of  Kago- 
shima again  fell  a  prey  to  the  fiames.  Sai- 
gd himself  foug[ht  bravely  on  Shiroyama, 
a  long  low  hill  just  behind  the  town.  The 
cave  where  he  submitted  to  decapitation 
at  the  hand  of  a  friend,  who  then  com- 
mitted suicide,  is  still  shown,  as  also. the 
hole  in  which  the  ^n^at  reliel's  head  was 
hidden,  to  prevent  it  froitli  falling  into  the 
hands  of  the  enemy.  The  view  from  l^b»> 
royama  is  very  striking. 

The  peculiar  kind  of  cloth  com- 
monly called  Saiauma-jofu,  sold  at 
Kagoshima,  is  manufactured  in  the 
Loochoo  Islands.  It  is  made  from 
hemp  bark  worked  into  very  fine 
threads,  and  is  costly,  the  price 
ranging  from  910  to  $50  a  tan, 
which  is  about  11  yds.<  English. 
The  manufacture  of  one  tan  is  said 
to  occupy  a  woman  of  the  islands 
for  more  than  a  year.  This  cloth 
is  also  known  by  the  name  of  how. 
Another  kind  of  erass  cloth,  called 
hathofu,  also  made  in  the  Loochoo 
Islands,  is  sold  at  Kagoshima^ 
This  is  woven  from  the  bark  of  the 
plantain,  and  used  in  summer  by 
the  poorer  classes. 


408       Route  60, — From  Kagoshima  overland  to  lutmamoto. 


Kagoshima  is  the  seat  of  the 
manufacture  of  the  celebrated  Sa- 
tsnma  crackled  faience,  the  best 
pieces  of  which  were  produced  at 
the  Daimyo's  cost.  Potting  is 
carried  on  at  Tanoura  in  the  E. 
suburb  of  the  town,  and  at  the  in- 
teresting vill.  of  Tsuboya  where 
live  the  descendants  of  a  niunber  of 
Korean  potters  who  were  trans- 
ported thither  towards  the  end  of 
the  17th  centiu^y  at  the  time  of 
Hideyoshi's  conquest  of  Korea. 

The  gardens  of  the  former  Princes 
of  Satsuma  at  Iso  near  Kagoshima 
are  famed  for  their  beauty. 

Sakiinvjinia  is  a  day's  excursion 
from  Kagoshima.  Boat  is  taken  to 
the  vill.  of  Kurokami  on  the  E. 
coast  of  the  island,  a  highly  pictur- 
esque passage  of  3  hrs.  skirting 
the  S.'  coast.  At  Kurokami  a  hot- 
stream  flows  down,  and  there  are 
several  other  hot-springs  on  the 
island.  The  crater  of  the  volcano 
is  reached  by  a  track  through 
long  bamboo  gi*ass  and  shrubs,  the 
summit  of  the  mountain  being 
4,200  ft.  high.  The  crater,  whose 
walls  are  very  steep  and  wild- 
looking  ii  300  ft.  or  400  ft.  deep, 
and  the  view  one  of  great  mag- 
ficence.  Immediately  in  front  of 
the  spectator,  to  the  W.,  lies  the 
town  of  Kagoshima ;  on  the  S.  E. 
rises  Kaimon-dake,  and  in  the 
opposite  direction  the  two  massive 
peaks  of  the  Kirishima  range — 
Takachiho  on  the  r.,  and  Karaku- 
nimi-dake  on  the  1.  Beyond,  in 
the  distance,  lie  the  mountains 
of  Hyuga,  whUst  below,  on  every 
side,  stretches  the  lovely  bay  of 
Kagoshima  dotted  with  islets. 

Kagoshima  has  steam  commimi- 
cation  with  the  Loochoo  Islands 
twice  monthly,  taking  2t}  days  to 
make  the  passage ;  with  Osaka  and 
Kobe  via  Nagasaki,  twice  Weekly, 
and  direct  about  six  times  a  month. 


EOUTE  60. 

« 

From  Kagoshima   to  Kuiishima- 

YAMA,    AND    vid    THE     RaPIDS    OF 
THE  KUMAGAWA  TO  KUMAMOTO. 

The  description  of  this  route  as 
far  as  Hitoyoshi  is  chiefly  compiled 
from  the  diary  of  the  Rev.  Walter 
Weston,  who  traversed  the  ground 
in  April,  1891.  Those  to  whom 
speed  is  the  chief  consideration- 
may  preferably  take  the  wide  jinri- 
kisha  road  with  brick-faced  tunnels 
which  runs  from  Kagoshima  to 
Minamata  and  Sajiki,  whence  there- 
is  a  good  road,  3  W,  to  Tsuge  on  the 
Kiunagawa,  and  thence  by  boat 
down  ithe  rapids  to  Yatsushiro. 

From  Kagoshima  to  Kajiki  is  a 
distance  of  5  ri  6  did,  or  a  little 
over  12  m.,  practicable  for  jinriki- 
shas.  Thence  onwards,  the  average 
time  occupied  is  given. 

Kajiki  to : —  Howrs. 

Yashiro  (horseback) 5 — 6 

Ascent  of  Takachiho  (on 

foot)  2.\  . 

Takachiho  to  Enoyu  (on 

foot) 2\ 

Ascent    of    Karakiinimi- 

dake  (on  foot) 22 

Karakunimi-dake  to  Yo- 

kogawa  (on  foot)    5  .V 

Yokogawa     to     Yoshida 

(horseback) 4^ 

Yoshida  to  Hitoyoshi  (on 

foot)  5 

Hitoyoshi  to  Yatsushiro 

(boat)    5 — 8 

Yatsushiro  to  Kumamoto 

(jinrikisha)  5 

In  starting  from  Kagoshima,  the 
traveller  has  the  choice  of  the  road 
along  the  shore  of  the  bay,  or  of 
steamer  direct  to  Kajiki. 

Leaving  the  town  by  the  N.,  the 
road  passes  along  the  base  of  the 
hills  past  Iso  to  Shingakuji,  a 
temple  dedicated  to  the  me- 
mory of  a  son  of  a  Prince  of 
Satsuma  who  was  delivered  up  at 
the  end  of  the  16th   centiuy,  in 


Ascott  of  Kirishima-yama. 


409 


expiation  of  the  lonj^  resistance 
offered  by  the  House  of  Shijnazu 
"to  Hideyoshi.     From 

Knjiki  (Inn^  Nezumi-ya;  also  a 
new  house  at  the  landing-place), 
t-hose  not  caring  to  aseend  Kiri- 
shinia  may  proceed  direct  to 
Yosliida,  a  distance  of  10  ri.  A 
j^old  mine  is  being  worked  about 
^6  i'i  from  Kajiki. 

On.  leaving  Kajiki  the  road  pass- 
es through  rugged  and  fantastic* 
scenery,  showing  frequent  evidence 
of  volcanic  action.  At  a  distance 
of  2^  ri  from  Kajiki  stands  the 
hamlet  of  Miyauchi,  which  takes 
its  name  from  a  fine  temple  erect- 
ed not  long  ago  to  Hachiman, 
under  the  shade  of  a  splendid 
j  ^rove  of  trees.  Again  wending 
through  interesting  country,  we 
reach  the  Katsurazaka-toge,  one 
of  the  most  beautiful  passes  in 
Japan.  In  front  rise  the  peaks  of 
Kirishima, — Takachiho  whence  is- 
sue large  volumes  of  steam,  and 
Karakunimi-dake,  still  higher  but 
at  a  greater  distance.  On  the  1. 
are  the  Satsuma  hills,  while  behind 
towers  Sakiu*a-jima,  with  Kaimon- 
4ake  far  beyond  at  the  end  ot  the 
peninsula.  For  some  distance  the 
road  passes  along  the  plateau  tlui.s 
ii:ained,j,nd  then  descends  to  tlic 
vill.  of  Okuho,  whence  it  is  2  ri  to 

Yaslliro.  also  called  Taguchi,  or 
Kirishima  Onsen  (Imiy  Takenon«;hi). 
The  first  of  these  names,  which 
means  Shinto  temple,  is  derived 
IVom  a  handsome  shrine  standing 
at  the  top  of  a  flight  of  steps  and 
hidden  amidst  dense  foliage.  In 
front  of  it,  a  path  leads  luider  a 
fine  torii  to  a  point  on  the  moun- 
tain side  from  which  a  grand  view 
is  obtained  in  the  direction  of 
Kagoshima  Bay.  Yashiro,  which 
is  1,500  ft.  high,  is  the  starting- 
point  for  the  ascent  of 

Takachiho-dake   {HigasJd  Kiri- 

-ahima). 

Pitjperly  speakint?,  the  iiaine  of  Klri- 
*hlmn  should  be  confineil  to  this  eastern 
peak,  the  appellation  of  the  western  and 


hij^her,  hut  less  striking  peak,  Tieinir  Kara- 
kunimi-dake, which  is  so  called  from  the 
idea  that  it  affords,  a  viov  of  China  or 
Korea  (Kam).  Kirishima  is,  however, 
commonly  used  as  a  general  name  for  the 
whole  range.  This  mountain  is  celebratCMl 
in  Japanese  mythology  as  the  peak  on 
whicli  the  god  Ninigi,  grandson  of  the 
Sun-Goddess  Amatenisu,  alighted  when 
he  came  down  from  Heaven  to  pave  the 
way  for  the  concjuest  of  Japan.  Tl»e 
celebi-ated  '  Heavenly  Sword  '  on  the  sum- 
mit of  Takachiho  is  considered  to  be  a 
relic  of  this  divinity. 

On  leaving  the  temple,  the 
path  turns  to  the  1.  straight 
through  the  wood,  and  in  40  min. 
reaches  the  upper  edge  of  the 
forest  at  an  altitude  of  about' 
2,250  ft.  From  this  point  the 
peak  of  Takachiho  is  seen  right 
ahead,  and  as  the  ascent  be- 
comes less  steep,  good  progress 
is  easily  made.  The  path  crosses 
a  track  on  the  W.  side  of  the  peak, 
and  leads  into  the  valley  of  the 
Nojiri-gawa.  At  the  summit  of 
the  pass,  the  track  turns  to  the  r., 
and  mounts  by  a  zigzag  path  over 
scoriae  and  ashes  to  the  N.W.  side 
of  the  edge  of  the  crater,  which  is 
about  l,5uO  ft.  in  diameter,  and  per- 
haps 30k)  ft.  deep.  At  the  bottom 
is  a  small  lake,  from  which  dense 
clouds  of  steam  mingled  with 
powerful  fumes  of  sulphur  come 
rolling  up  with  a  loud  roar.  The 
outlines  of  the  crater  lip  are 
strongly  indented.  Tlie  actual  sum- 
mit of  the  mountain  (5,530  ft.)  is 
higher  up,  and  marked  by  a  large 
pile  of  stones,  below  which  is  a 
rest-house.  But  the  most  interest- 
ing object  is  the  '  Heavenly  Sword* 
already  referred  to.  The  material 
is  bronze,  the  8haj)e  antique  and 
clumsy,  the  length  about  4|  ft., 
and  the  sword  is  fixed  in  the 
ground  hilt  upwards.  The  view 
from  the  summit  is  very  extensive, 
being  similar  to  that  from  Kara- 
kunimi-dake described  below,  but 
more  open  towards  the  E.  The 
large  lake  far  l^elow  on  the  E.  side 
of  the  mountain  is  called  Mi-ike. 
The  distance  from  base  to  sunuuit 
is  locally  estimated  at  2i  ri. 


410      Route  60, — From  Kagoshima  overland  to  Kumamoto, 


While  the  ascent  of  Takachiho  is 
being  made,  the  baggage  should  be 
sent  round  to  Enoyu.  (inn,  Yasuda- 
ya),  a  long,  straggling  vill.  consist- 
ing chiefly  of  inns  and  bath-houses 
for  the  use  of  those  who  come  to 
take  tiie  waters. 

Karakiinimi-dake,  the  higher 
or  W.  peak  of  Kirishima,  may  be 
ascended  from  here,  the  distance 
being  locally  estimated  at  2^  rr, 
but  probably  longer.  Another  plan, 
perfectly  feasible  if  an  early  start 
be  made  from  Yashiro  and  wea- 
ther be  fine,  is  to  do  both  moun- 
tains the  same  day,  first  Takachiho 
and  then  Karakunimi-dake,  des- 
cending to  Yokogawa,  whither  of 
course  the  baggage  will  have  been 
sent  on  ahead.  On  the  way  up 
Karakunimi-dake,  the  views  of 
Sakura-jima  and  other  mountains 
are  magnificent.  A  good  hour's 
climb  from  Enoyu  brings  one  to 
the  edge  of  a  circular  crater,  not 
steaming  and  sulphureous  like 
that  of  Takachiho,  but  calm  and 
clear,  and  containing  a  beautiful 
lake  of  emerald  green,  from  whose 
margin  rises  a  belt  of  fir-trees  that 
clothe  the  sides  of  the  precipi- 
tous inner  wall  to  its  highest 
edge.  This  lake,  called  Onami-ike, 
is  about  1  ri  in  circumference, 
whilst  the  height  of  the  lowest 
part  of  the  crater  lip  is  4,680  ft. 
The  way  to  the  summit  of  the 
mountain  leads  through  a  dense 
undergrowth  of  bamboo  grass  and 
small  trees  before  issuing  out  upon 
soft  turf.  The  grand  view  in- 
cludes :  to  the  S.E.,  the  large  crater 
of  Shimoi-take,  then  the  summit 
of  Oi-take,  and  beyond,  but  tower- 
ing far  above  them,  the  smoking 
crater  and  sharp  peak  of  Taka- 
chiho; to  the  S.,  Shiraka-dake, 
Sakura-jima  in  the  Bay  of  Kago- 
shima, and  far  away  on  the  Pacific 
shore,  Kaimon-dake.  Onami-ike 
lies  at  the  spectator's  feet ;  and  on 
the  N.W.,  at  a  much  lower  eleva- 
tion, is  Shiratori-san,  with  two  of 
its  three  lakes  distinctly  visible. 


The  names  of  these  lakes  are 
Murasaki,  Byakushi,  and  Dok- 
Kwannon.  Tlie  top  of  Karakxminii- 
dake,  6,050  ft.,  forms  the  highest 
point  of  an  extinct  crater,  at  the 
bottom  of  which  lies  a  mass  of 
slimy  moss  and  weeds,  as  if  a  lake 
had  just  dried  up.  This  summit 
is  marked  by  a  large  cairn  sur« 
mounted  by  an  iron  trident.  Look- 
ing beyond  Shiratori-san,  a  most 
striking  and  extensive  vieDv  is  pre- 
sented of  the  mountains  of  central 
Kyiishu,  inclviding  Aso-san  and 
Sobo-san. 

The  way  down  leads  through 
Yamanojo,  one  of  the  many  mine- 
ral bath-places  in  which- this  vol- 
canic neighbourhood  abounds.  The 
main  road  is  joined  between  Enoyu 
and 

Yokogawa  (good  accommoda* 
tion).  An  hour's  ride  hence 
through  pretty  country,  partly 
beside  the  rushing  waters  of  the 
Sendai-gawa,  brings  the  traveller  to 

Kiirhio,  lying  in  the  centre  of  a 
large  plain  laid  out  in  rice-fields. 

xOSIiida,  situated  on  the  Sendai- 
gawa,  affords  good  accommodation. 
Leaving  this  town  by  ferry  across 
the  river,  the  road  leads  for  1  hr. 
up  a  steep  ascent  to  the  top  of  the- 
ridge  overlooking  the  plain  water- 
ed by  the  Sendairgawa,  also  called 
the  Masaki-gawa  in  its  upper 
course.  The  view  from  this  point 
is  superb ;  beyond  the  river 
lies  Yoshida,  with  the  Kirishima- 
group  towering  up  behind ;  slight- 
ly to  the  1.  is  Shiratori-san;  in 
the  background,  beyond  an  open- 
ing in  the  hills  through  which 
the  Sendai-gawa  flows,  is  Sakura- 
jima  ;  and  turning  round,  there  is 
a  fine  prospect  of  some  of  the  moun- 
tains of  northern  Kyiishii.  From 
this  point  the  path  moves  along  high 
ground  through  a  wood  for  2A  ri 
until  it  reaches  a  tea-house,  beyond 
which  another  pathjbranches  off  in 
the  direction  of  Okaba,  whence 
there  is  a  good  jinrikisha  road  to 

Hitoyoslii      (imis,      Togura-ya„ 


Boute  61. — To  the  Goto  IslandSf  Tsmhrna,  etc. 


411 


Matsuri-tei),  a  thriving  town,  for- 
merly the  s^at  of  a  Daimyo,  the 
ruins  of  whose  castle  still  i*emain. 
On  the  opposite  side  of  the  river 
ia  Mukaimachi,  where  boats  may 
be  engaged  for  the  voyage  of  40 
m.  down  the  Knmagawa,  celebrated 
for  its  Ba^pids,  most  of  which  occur 
during  the  la«t  25  miles.  Under 
(Ordinary  circumstances  the  voyage 
'will  occupy  about  6  hrs.  Should 
any  difficulty  be  experienced  in 
obtaining  boats  at  Mukaimachi, 
tbe  best  plan  is  to  push  on  to 
Tauge,  about  4  H  down  the  valley, 
^wbere  also  boats  may  be  hired. 
(For  further  details  see  p.  404.) 

I^om  Yatsushiro  onwards  the 
road  lies  across  the  level  plain  of 
Higo. 

Kumamoto  (see  p.  401). 


ROUTE  61. 

!Fbom  Nagasaki  to  thb  Goto  Is- 
I.ANDS  AND  Tsushima  ;  to  Fusan 
AND  Gensan  in  Korea,  and  to 
Vladivostock  in  Sibebia. 

A  bi-monthly  service  is  main- 
tained by  the  tine  steamers  of  the 
Nippon  Yusen  Kwaisha  to  Vladivo- 
stock,  affording  travellers  an  op- 
portunity of  visiting  such  outlying 
parts  of  Japan  as  the  Goto  Islands 
and  Tsushima,  besides  the  Korean 
porta  and  the  chief  naval  station 
of  Kussia  in  the  Far  East.  The 
steamers  leaving  Shanghai  via  Che- 
foo  and  Chemulpo  connect  at  Na- 
gasaki with  those  from  Kobe,  which 
latter  stay  for  2  days  at  Nagasaki. 
The  round  trip  from  Kobe  to  Vla- 
divostock  occupies  24  days;  from 
Nagasaki,  17  days.  Travellers 
whose  time  is  limited  can  go  from 
Nagasaki  to  Fusan  (pronounced 
Pusan  by  the  Koreans),  where  a 


stay  of  3  days  may  be  employed  in 
shooting,  fishing,  and  visiting  the 
old  Korean  city  which  is  within  easy 
reach  of  the  Japanese  Settlement, 
and  then  returning  to  Nagasaki 
by  one  of  the  Nippon  Yusen  Kwai- 
sha's  steamers.  Those  desirous 
of  having  more  time  at  Nag^asaki 
can  remain  there  for  24  hrs.  long- 
er, take  passage  by  the  Tientsin 
steamer  vik  the  Goto  Islands  and 
Tsushima,  and  be  landed  at  Fusan 
in  time  to  proceed  to  Vladivostock 
or  return  tK>  Nagasaki  as  desired. 
The  traveller  wishing  to  proceed  to 
Vladivostock  must  obtain  a  pass- 
port from  his  consul,  such  passport 
to  be  vised  by  the  Bujssian  consul. 
This  latter  formality  is  essential. 

Fiikne  (In?i,  Shiozuka-ya),  capi 
tal  of  the  island  of  the  same  name 
the  largest  of  the  Goto  group,  is 
about  50  m.  distant  from  Naga- 
saki. The  steamer  stays  here  6 
hrs.,  affording  ample  time  to  see 
the  remains  of  the  old  Daimyo's 
castle  and  the  garden  which  must 
have  been  at  one  time  very  beauti- 
ful. Near  the  town  are  some  strik- 
ing dome-shaped  hills — extinct  vol- 
canoes now  cultivated  from  base  to 
summit,  and  their  craters  filled  with 
shrubs  and  rank  vegetation.  Deer 
and  other  game  abound  on  this 
and  the  other  islands  of  the  group ; 
trout  also  are  plentiful  in  tne 
mountain  streams. 

Throujrh  the  untiring  efforts  of  the 
Roman  Catholic  missionarieB,  workinj?  in 
a  field  well-sown  by  their  predecessors  in 
the  16th  and  17th  ceutnrie*,  the  population 
of  the  Goto  Islands  consists  largely  of 
Christians. 

Iziigalinra  (Inn,  Yoshida-ya),  the 
capital  of  Tsushima,  about  100  m. 
distant  from  Fukue,  is  charmingly 
situated  in  a  valley  surrounded  by 
wooded  hills,  some  of  which  are 
about  1,200  feet  high.  Tsushi- 
ma has  an  area  of  262  £q. 
miles,  and  is  equi-distant  from  the 
Japanese  island  of  Iki  and  from 
Korea,  being  48  m.  from  each.  At 
high  water  it  becomes  a  double  is- 


412 


I^ute  61, — Fusan,  Gensariy  and  Vladivostoch. 


land,  a  deep  sound  dividing-it  into 
two  unequal  parts.  The  southern 
portion  is  mountainous  (2,100  ft. 
high),  the  northern  much  lower. 

Tm-ihima  means  *  the  island  of  the  port,* 
a  name  probably  given  from  the  fact  of 
this  place,  with  its  fine  harbours,  having 
been  from  time  immemorial  the  midway 
halting-place  for  junks  plying  l^etween 
.tapan  and  the  mainland  of  Asia.  Tsu- 
i^hima  is  mentioned  in  the  Kqjiki  as  one  of 
the  Eight  Great  Islands  of  Japan,  to  which 
Izanagi  and  Izanami  gave  birth  at  the 
beginning  of  all  things.  In  later  days  the 
Daimyos  of  Tsushima  served  as  inter- 
mediaries in  all  international  relations 
between  Japan  and  Korea. 

•  The  Russians  endeavoured  to  obtain  a 
footing  in  Tsushima  in  1861,  but  were 
soon  obliged  to  abandon  the  attempt ; 
and  Tsushima  remains,  now  as  ever,  part 
and  parcel  of  the  Japanese  dominion,  in- 
habited by  a  Japanese-speaking  population 
only  slightly  mixed  with  Korean  blood. 

The  principal  product  of  the  is" 
land  is  dried  cuttle-fish  {ilea),  which 
is  held  in  high  esteem  by  the  Japa- 
nese. The  lovely  scenery  of 
Tsushima  ajad  its  bracing  air 
should  make  this  spot  a  desirable 
resort  for  invalids. 

Quitting  Tsushima,  a  run  of  65 
m.  lands  the  traveller  in 

Flisan  (good  accommodation  with 
European  food  in  the  Japanese 
settlements,  near  the  south-eastern 
tip  of  the  Korean  peninsula.  The 
chansre  which  this  short  dis- 
tance  effects  in  everything  that 
meets  the  eye  is  very  marked. 
The  beautifully  wooded  hills  and 
ravines  of  Tsushima  are  replaced 
by  endless  hills  covered  with 
coarse  grass  and  dwarf  pines, 
relieved  here  and  there  by  huge 
outcrops  of  bare  rock.  The  dirty 
white  dress  of  the  Koreans,  their 
squalid  dwellings,  their  rude  man- 
ners and  customs,  all  afford  a  strik- 
ing contrast  to  what  we  have  left 
))ehind.  The  harbour  of  Fusan, 
liowever,  is  pretty,  and  is  sheltered 


by  a  large  island  named  by  'the 
early  navigators  *  Deer  Island,'  on 
which  deer  and  pheasants  still 
abound.  The  Japanese  Settlement 
of  Fusan  differs  but  little  from 
an  ordinary  Japanese  town ;  it  con- 
tains some  creditable  buildings, 
and  is  well-situated  for  purposes  of 
trade.  Its  salubrious  climate  "will 
in  time  no  doubt  attract  noiany 
visitors  from.  China  during  the 
summer  months. 

Oensan,  Yneiisati,  or  Wonsan, 

as  it  is  called  by  the  Japanese, 
Chinese  and  Koreans  respec- 
tively, is  about  300  miles  N".  of 
Fusan  on  the  E.  coast  of  Korea, 
and  is  situated  in  Broughton  Bay, 
the  inner  part  of  which  is  weU-pro- 
tected  by  islands.  The  surrounding 
country  resembles  that  around 
Fusan,  but  is  more  open  near 
the  sea,  and  the  valleys  are  better 
cultivated.  A  high  range  of  moun- 
tains extends  from  Gensaii,  running 
paralled  to  the  coast  in  a  southerly 
direction  for  about  60  miles.  In 
the  bold  and  rugged  fastnesses 
of  these  mountains,  the  tiger, 
leopard,  bear,  and  wild-cat  roam 
at  will,  the  tiger  being  no 
uncommon  visitor  in  the  Japanese 
Settlement.  The  Japanese  Hotel 
in  Gensan  may  be  recommended. 

Taking  our  departure  from  Gen- 
san,  a  run  of  370  m.  to  the  N.E. 
brings  us  to 

VJadlTostock  (Hotels,  Golden 
Horn  ;  Hotel  Tessin,  with  Bussian 
cuisine) .  The  harbour  is  very  pretty, 
as  also  is  the  town  when  seen  from 
the  water.  Vladivostock  abounds 
in  charming  walks  and  drives,  and 
possesses  excellent  boating  and 
deep-sea  fishing.  Game  is  plentiful, 
and  a  river  close  by  is  well-stocked 
with  trout.  The  nights  are  always 
cool  and  mosquitoes  unknown. 


SECTION  VIII. 


THE  ISLAND  OF  YEZO, 


(Routes  62 — 68. 


Route  62, — Hakodate  and  Neighbourhood. 


41^ 


ROUTE  62. 

Hakodate  and  Neighbourhood. 

» 

1.  general  observations  on  yezo. 
s.  hakodate.  3.  walks  near 
hakodate :  yachigashira,  the 
peak,  gortokaku. 

1. — General  Observations  on 

Y£zo. 

No  mention  of  Tezo  is  made  in 
the  earlier  historical  records,  and 
it  was  probably  unknown  to  the 
Japanese  until  the   period    when 
the  last  of  the  Ainos  were  expelled 
&om  their  ancient  homes  in  the 
Main  Island  of  Japan.    Tradition 
asserts  that  Yoshitsone,  a  favourite 
hero  of  historical  romance,  found 
refuge  here  from    the  unnatural 
enmity  of  his  elder  brother ;  and  to 
this  day  his  memory  is  revered  by 
the  simple  aborigines.    Later  on 
Yezo    was    colonised    and    partly 
conquered  by  Takeda  Nobuhiro,  to 
whose  descendant,  Matsumae  To- 
shihiro,  the  lordship  of  the  island 
iras  granted  in  1604  by   leyasu. 
JIatsumae's  successors,  whose  seat 
of  government  was  at  the  town  of 
Matsumae,  recently  re-named  Fu- 
kuyama,  continued  to  rule  over  the 
"W.  portion  of  the  island  down   to 
1868.     From  towards  the  end  of  the 
18th  century,  the  eastern  half  had, 
with  the  exception  of  a  break  from 
1820  ^to   1854,   been   administered 
by  officials  of  the  Shogunate.    After 
the  overthrow  of  the    Tokugawa 
family  and  the  consequent  media- 
tisation  of  the  Daimyoa,  Yezo  was 
placed  under  a  special  department 
of  the  new  government,   entitled 
KaitaJcushi    (Colonisation  Commis- 
aion),  created  ad  hoc,  and  hence- 
forth was  regarded  as  apartof  Japan 
proper.     It  received  the  designa- 
tion of  Hokkaido,  or   *  Circuit  of 
the  Northern  Sea,'  and  was  divid- 
'  ed  into  nine  provinces,  in  order  to 
assimilate  it  more  closely  to  the 
rest  ot  the  Empire.   Yezo  had  been 


formerly  resorted  to  by  the  Nor- 
thern Japanese  chiefly  for  the  sake 
of  the  fisheries ;  but  attempts  were 
now  made  to  induce  natives  of 
other  parts  of  Japan  to  migrate 
thither  as  agricultural  settlers,  and,, 
with  the  aid  of  a  number  of  Ameri- 
cans, headed  by  General  Capron,. 
public  works  were  commenced  on  an 
extensive  scale  with  the  object  of 
developing  the  resources  of  the 
island.  After  large  sums  had  been 
expended  without  any  adequate 
return,  the  more  ambitious  of 
these  schemes  were  abandoned  in 
1881.  The  Kaitakushi  was  dis- 
solved, and  the  government  of  the 
island  assimilated  to  the  prefec- 
tural  system  of  the  rest  of  the 
Empire.  The  present  capital  is 
Sapporo,  founded  in  1870 ;  the 
chief  ports  are  Hakodate,  Mororan,. 
Kushiro,  and  Nemuro  on  the  S.E. 
coast,  and  Otaru,.  not  far  from 
Sapporo,  on  the  west.  The  interior 
is  still  for  the  most  part  covered 
with  a  primeval  forest,  rarely 
penetrated  except  by  the  aborigi- 
nal Ainos  in  quest  of  bears  and 
deer. 

The  characteristics  of  Yjbzo,  both 
natural  and  artificial,  differ  in 
many  ways  from  those  of  the  Main 
Island  of  Japan.  The  climate  is 
colder,  the  country  newer,  the 
people  less  polished  and  more  in- 
dependent. Few  if  any  old  temples 
or  other  historical  monuments 
exist;  but  there  are  interesting 
remnants  of  the  Aino  race,  which 
once  peopled  not  Yezo  only,  but  a 
great  portion  of  Northern  Japan. 
In  many  places,  too,  relics  of  the 
stone  age,  which  for  this  island  has 
only  recently  passed  away,  are  to 
be  met  with.  The  Aino  villages 
most  easy  of  access  from  Hakodate 
are  Yurappu  and  Osliamambe  on 
the  shore  of  Volcano  Bay,  and  Ho- 
robetsu,  Shiraoi,  and  Chitose  on 
the  way  from  Mororan  to  Sapporo. 

Zoologically,  Yezo  belongs  to  a 
different  sub-region  from  Japan 
proper,  the  deep  Straits  of  Tsugaru 


416 


JiimU  62. — Hakodate  and  Xeighbourhaod. 


forming  what  is  called  '  Blakiston's 
line/  from  the  name  of  Captain  T. 
W.  Blakiston,  R.A.,  whoee  re- 
searches are  weD-known  to  8eien(». 
On  the  Yezo  side  of  this  line  there 
are  no  pheasants  and  no  monkeys, 
while  there  is  a  species  of  grouse ; 
the  bears  are  of  a  different  species 
from  those  found  on  the  Main  Is- 
land. There  are  numeroos  other 
divergences  both  in  the  fauna  and 
flora,  adding  their  testimony  to  the 
fact  that  Yczo  and  the  Main  Island, 
though  so  close  to  each  other,  have 
been  separated  during  long  geologi- 
cal ages. 

The  chief  productions  are  her- 
rings, salmon,  iicashi,  sea-ears,  and 
above  all  konibu  (or  JLo&u),  a  broad, 
thick,  and  very  long  species  of  sea- 
weed, a  great  favourite  with  the 
co<:)ks  not  only  of  Japan  but  of  China, 
to  which  latter  count i-y  large  quan- 
tities are  exported. 

There  are  comprtratively  few 
good  roads,  the  inns  are  often  far 
apart,  and  jinrikishas  and  carriages 
used  only  in  a  few  districts.  Most 
journeys  are  performed  in  the 
saddle,  horses  being  veiy  niwierous, 
though  not  particularly  good  or 
cheap.  In  1891  the  usual  cliarge 
waa  from  ]  2  to  20  sen  a  ri. 

For  six  months  Yezo  is  under 
snow  and  ice,  the  snow  averaging 
about  2  ft.  at  Hako<late  and 
from  6  ft.  to  8  ft.  in  the  N.  and  W, 
of  the  island.  The  lowest  reading 
of  the  thermometer  at  Hakodate 
during  the  past  ten  years  has  been 
5°.5  Fahrenheit.  On  the  other  hand, 
the  second  half  of  July  and  the 
first  half  of  August  are  intensely 
hot,  mosquitoes  are  very  trouble- 
some, and  there  is  an  additional 
pest  of  gad-flies  (ahu),  whose  at- 
tacks are  so  violent  that  it  is 
necessary  to  keep  lx)th  face  and 
hands  well-protected  when  riding 
about  the  country.  The  best  time 
for  visiting  Yezo  is  from  the  middle 
of  May  to  the  middle  of  July,  and 
from  the  beginning  of  September 
to  the    beginning    of    November. 


The  aceneiyof  the  island,  tiiough 
less  striking  than  that  of  Japan 
proper,  has  a  charm  of  its  own  and. 
a  certain  resemblance  to  'Natth. 
Central  Europe.  There  is  good 
Ralmon  fishing  in  several  places  in 
the  month  of  Jnn&  There  is  snipe 
and  duck  shooting  in  the  autumn, 
with  occasionally  a  bear  for  sb 
change — ^not  the  brown  bear  of  the 
Main  Island,  but  a  larger  species 
resembling  the  grizzly. 

The  Japanese  inhabitants  of  Teso 
are  a  mixed  community,  beinfr 
chiefly  settlers  from  one  or  other 
of  the  Northern  provinces..  The 
consequence  is  that  there  is  no 
special  local  dialect,  but  only  a 
general  use  of  various  Northern 
patois.  The  traveller  who  is  ac- 
quainted with  the  Japanese  lan- 
guage as  spoken  at  Tokyo,  will  do 
well  to  remember  that  t  is  constantly 
changed  into  t4,  and  is  sometimes 
dropped  altogether.  Thus,  when 
he  hears  matsu  and  mizu  (almost 
ntdz)^  he  must  understand  nuichi 
and  mu^hi.  AVt  r*"  (almost  »*  t') 
means  nx  ri,  two  n.  In  fact,  the 
Northern  people  seem  to  try 
to  speak  without  opening  their 
mouths. 

2.— Hakodate. 

Hakodate. 

Inns.  —  Kaku  jo,  Chigai  -  sangi, 
Kito. 

Restaurants. —  Goto-ken,  in  Sae> 
hiro-cho,  where  plain  European 
food  mav  be  obtainecl ;  also  at  the 
Kyodo-kwan  in  the  Public  Gardens, 
where  passable  accommodation  for 
the  night  may  lu*  had. 

Stwes. — Kanemori,  Ima-Ichi,  Ya- 
ma-San,  and  Kane-Ni,  all  in  the 
Main  Street. 

The  town  clusters  at  the  foot 
of  the  bold  rock,  often  compared 
to  Gibraltar  and  known  to  for- 
eigners as  Hakodate  Head,  whose 
summit  locally  called  the  Peak, 
is  1,157  feet  high.  Amo»g  the 
largest  buildings  are  the  Japanese 
Club,    Public    HaU,     and    Naval 


Walks  in  the  Vicinity » 


41 T 


School.  The  number  of  foreign 
residents  is  small — some  15  families 
— and  the  town,  notwithstanding  its 
growing  size  and  prosperity,  is  of 
little  account  as  a  port  for  foreign 
trade.  At  the  west  end  of  the  town 
is  a  fort  recently  dismantled.  In 
1889  water-works  were  construct- 
ed, Hakodate  being  the  second 
town  in  the  Empire  to  have  water 
supplied  in  this  manner.  The 
"water  is  convened  in  iron  pipes 
from  the  river  Akagawa,  7  m. 
distant  among  the  mountains. 

There  is  regular  communication 
with  Yokohama  thi*ee  times  a  week 
l>y  the  Nippon  Yvisen  Kwaisha 
Steamers.  Occasionally  steamers 
run  down  the  West  Coast  to  Akita 
and  Niigata.  There  is  also  regular 
communication  with  the  other  ports 
of  Yezo,  namelj'  Otaru  which  is  the 
terminus  for  the  Sapporo  railway, 
Kushiro,  Nemuro,  etc.,  and  also 
with  Aomori  on  the  Main  Island. 

The  chief  exports  are  edible  sea- 
weed (komhu),  b^che-de-mer,  dried 
fish  of  various  sorts,  fish-manure 
{nishin  no  kasii)^  etc. 

3. — Walks  near  Hakodate.  , 

To  the  Public  Gardens  and  Ya- 
chigashira.  The  Public  Gardens, 
which  are  on  the  E.  outskirts  of  the 
town,  contain  a  small  but  interest- 
ing Museum  (Hakuhutsvjo),  Where 
may  be  seen  numerous  zoological 
specimens,  including  a  large  col- 
kction  of  Japanese  birds  presented 
by  Mr.  T.  W.  Blakiston,  a  collec- 
tion of  shells  brought  together  by 
Prof.  Morse,  specimens  of  Aino 
work  and  of  the  natural  products 
of  Yezo,  etc.,  and  lelics  of  the 
stone  age.  Yachigashira  (often 
mispronounced  Yatsugashira)  is 
the  name  of  a  picturesque  dell 
l3ring  beyond  the  Public  Gardens. 
Besides  being  a  pleasant  walk,  it 
offers  the  attraction  of  a  charm- 
ing restavirant  called  Asada-ya, 
situated  in  its  own  grounds  and 
commanding  a  good  view.  The 
Shinto  temple  of  Hachiman  is  also 


prettily  placed  on  the  hill-side. 
The  village  on  the  near  sea-shore 
which  is  seen  from  here  is  Shiri- 
sawabe,  passing  through  which  a 
walk  of  about  ^  m.  may  be  taken 
to  a  spot  known  to  foreigners  as 
*  East  Point/  just  at  the  back  of 
which  there  is  a  curious  arched 
rock. 

Up  the  Peak,  which  takes  about 
i  hr.  from  the  end  of  the  town. 
There  are  numerous  narrow  paths 
leading  to  the  summit,  whence  an 
extensive  view  is  obtained,  em- 
bracing S.  E.  Shiokubi,  distant 
13  m.  (Cape  Blunt  on  the  charts), 
and  the  volcano  of  Esan  beyond, 
bearing  E.  by  N.,  221  ^^'  l^yiiig 
nearly  N.  rise  Yorozu-yama,  12  m., 
and  next  the  volcano  of  Koma-ga^ 
take,  22  m. ;  Nanae,  Arikawa,  etc., 
are  across  the  bay.  Also  across  the 
bay  to  the  W.  lies  Moheji,  a  pretty 
village  with  a  small  river  running 
through  it,  and  a  lighthouse  stand- 
ing on  a  prominent  rock,  N.  W.  of 
the  Peak.  Distant  28  m.  is  the 
mountain  called  Nigorigawa-yama. 
Behind  Moheji,  distant  13  m.,  is 
Kai-asuka-dake,  while  to  the  S.  W. 
rises  Shiriuchi-dake,  22  m.  The 
high  land  on  the  other  side  of  the- 
straits  is  plainly  visible,  and  on  a 
clear  day  Iwaki-san  to  the  S.  W. 
of  Aomori  may  be  distinctly  seen. 

In  the  opposite  direction,  name- 
ly turning  out  of  the  main  street 
to  the  right,  a  walk  or  ride  may  be 
taken  past  the  gaol  and  barracks 
to  a  fort  called  Goi-ybkaku.  This 
disused  fort,  erected  in  the  latter 
days  of  the  Tokugawa  regime,  is 
about  4  m.  from  the  town.  The 
moat  affords  excellent  skating,  tho 
ice  being  planed  and  swept;  and 
when  it  is  about  12  inches  thick,  it 
is  cut  and  exported  to  the  southern 
ports. 


418 


Tioiite  63. — Excursions  from  Hakodate. 


ROUTE  68. 

Excursions  from  Hakodate. 

yunokawa.  the  lakes.    ascent  op 
koma-ga-take.    esan. 

1. — yunokawa. 

Distance  1  ri  2%  cho  (4i  m.)  on 
foot,  in  jinrikisha,  or  omnibus,  the 
latter  starting  several  times  daily 
during  the  summer.  Ynnokawa  is 
a  charming  place  at  which  to 
spend  a  few  days,  owing  to  its 
pure  sea  air,  its  hot-springs,  and 
the  pretty  walks  in  the  neighbour- 
hood, especially  one  to  Ynnosawa, 
less  than  a  ri  inland.  The  best 
inns  are  Senshin-kwan,  Yosei- 
kwan,  and  Kakudai. 

2.— -The  Lakes. 

Distance  1  ri^ckd  (17  m.),  passing 
through  Nanae  which  ia  4  ri  from 
Hakodate. 

The  favourite  holiday  resort  in 
the  neighbourhood  of  Hakodate  is 
that  known  to  foreigners  as  'the 
Lakes.'  The  two  principal  lakes 
are  named  respectively  Junsai-nu- 
ma  (or  Konuma),  and  Cnuma.  They 
lie  nearly  20  m.  from  Hakodate, 
and  not  far  from  the  base  of  the 
volcano  of  Koma-ga-take.  Their 
shores  are  covered  with  luxuriant 
▼eget-ation>  while  the  islets  furnish 
objective  points  for  those  who  may 
wish  to  go  out  boating.  The  lake 
fish  can  be  taken  with  a  worm,  but 
will  not  rise  to  the  fly.  Konuma 
contains  prawns  of  a  very  delicate 
flavour.  Junsai-numa  takes  its 
name  from  a  species  of  lily  iJLimnan' 
ihemum  peltatuw),  which  is  con- 
sidered a  delicacy  and  brought  in 
great  quantities  to  Hakodate.  No 
place  in  Yezo  affords  so  good  a 
field  to  the  entomologist,  especially 
if  lepidoptera  be  the  object  of  his 
«earch. 

The  Lakes  may  be  reached  on 
horseback  or  by  carriage.  The 
usi^tl  charge  for  horses  was,  in  the 
«ammer  of  1890,  from  $1.50  to  93, 


and  for  native  carriages  about  95. 
The  drive  to  the  hamlet  of  Junsai- 
mura  on  the  bordei*s  of  Junsai- 
numa,  where  it  is  best  to  stay, 
takes  from  3^  to  4  hrs.  The  first 
portion  of  the  road,  which  is  also 
the  high  road  to  Mori,  and  whieh. 
was  constructed  by  American  engi- 
neers, lies  along  the  flat  that  skirts 
the  bay.  The  only  halting-plaoe 
worthy  of  mention  is  at 
Nanae. 

Originally  Btarted  by  a  Mr.  Gartoor, 
to  whom  a  large  tract  of  ground  had 
been  granted  in  1868  by  the  rebel  govern- 
ment of  Ye^,  this  experimental  farm  was 
purchased  by  the  ^itaknshi,  who  im- 
ported and  bred  foreign  cattle,  sheep* 
horses,  etc.,  raised  European  and  Ameri- 
can farm-produce,  vegetables,  and  flowers, 
and  introduced  the  cultivation  of  foreign 
grapes  for  the  purpose  of  making  wine. 

While  the  horses  are  resting,  a 
walk  may  be  taken  through  the 
gardens.  Three  miles  beyond  Na- 
nae the  ground  rises,  and  it  be- 
comes necessary  to  alight  from 
the  carriage.  Pretty  glimpses  of 
the  Hakodate  Peak  and  of  the 
mountains  of  the  mainland  are 
occasionally  obtained ;  and  from  a 
little  point  just  off  the  road  close 
to  the  summit,  the  Lakes  are  first 
caught  sight  of.  The  summit  of 
the  hill  is  940  ft.  above  the  levd 
of  the  sea. 

At  Jnnsai-mnra  there  are  twe 
inns,  both  on  the  1.  side  of  the 
road.  The  first  one,  situated  im- 
mediately at  the  foot  of  the  hill 
and  kept  by  Miyazaki  Jubei,  is  most 
patronised  by  the  drivers ;  but  the 
semi-European  one  further  ozi» 
known  by  the  sign  of  Maru-san,  ia 
the  better  of  the  two.  Travellers 
will  of  course  bring  their  own  pro- 
visions; but  fair  Japanese  food  and 
also  foreign  potatoes  can  be  ob- 
tained. Primitive  boats  for  goine 
out  on  the  lake  and  equally  primi- 
tive fishing-gear  can  be  hired.  It 
is  a  10  min.  walk  hence  through 
a  pretty  wood  to  the  shores  of 
Lake  5numa.  A  good  view  of 
Koma-ga-take    is   obtained   front 


The  Lakes.    Koma-ga-take  mid  Emn. 


419 


Jnnsai-nunm.  If  the  traveller  has 
only  one  day  at  his  disposal,  the 
pleasantest  plan  is  to  start  early 
in.  the  morning,  lunch  at  the  inn,- 
i;1ien  stroll  over  to  Onuma,  and 
retam  to  Hakodate  in  the  cool  of 
^th.e  evening. 

3. — Ascent  of  the  Voloano  Koma- 
ga-take. 

Itinerary. 

HAKODATE  to :—     Ri,  Chd.  M. 

Togeshita 5      5     12^ 

Shikonoppe  (a  little 

way  on)  — ^    — 

YAKEYAMA   3    18      &h 

Total 8    23    21 


This  is  the  mountain  whose  sharp 
peak   (in  reality  only  the  higher 
«ide    of    the   wall  of    the  crater) 
.forms    so    conspicuous    an  object 
from  Hakodate.    It  lies  nearly  due 
N.  of  the  town,  and  is  reached  by 
i;be  road  mentioned  in  Excursion 
2.    The  two  trips  should  be  com- 
bined, the  night  being  spent  at 
J'unsai-mura.      Accommodation  of 
an  inferior  quality  may  be  procured 
a  little  further  on,  at  Shikonoppe, 
and  also  at  Yakeyama  at  the  very 
"base  of  the  moimtain.    From  Jun- 
sai-mura,  the  expedition  can  easily 
be  made  in  6  hrs.,  including  stop- 
pages,   and  many  will    prefer  to 
make  it  at  night  in  order  to  see 
the  sunrise  from  the  summit.    For 
this  purpose  the  carriage  brought 
from  Hakodate  should  he  kept,  so 
as  to  drive  on  as  far  as  Yakeyama, 
i  hr.  of  uninteresting  road.    Here 
horses  are  mounted  which,  toge- 
ther with  a  guide,  should  be  sent 
on  ahead,  and  1  hr.  ride  through 
a  thick  gprowth  of  underwood  and 
of  grasses  that  overtop  the  riders' 
heads,  lead^  to  the  place  where  it 
is  necessary  fo  dismount.     It  is 
another  hour's  walk  over  sand  and 
volcanic  detritus  to  the  lip  of  the 
crater,    which   commands   a   fine 


view  of  Volcano  Bay  on  the  one 
hand,  and  on  the  other  of  the  Lakes, 
behind  which  Hakodate  Bay  and 
even  the  town  and  shipping  can 
be  distinguished.  To  the  1.  towers 
the  wall  of  rock  forming  what 
looks  like  a  peak  from  most  points 
of  view.  The  ascent  of  it  is  not 
impossible,  but  has  rarely  heen 
attempted.  Traces  of  vegetation 
are  found  up  to  the  very  summit* 
On  the  way  up  there  is  a  little 
platform,  said  to  be  inaccessible,, 
which  supports  three  curiously 
shaped  stones  popularly  supposed 
to  have  been  once  the  abode  of  a 
fahvlouB  inonkey  (ycLeri) .  Beneath 
and  in  front  of  the  spectator  lies 
the  crater.  To  the  r.  is  seen' 
Yokotsu-dake,  itself  an  old  volcano, 
whose  height  is  estimated  at  3,800 
ft.  The  last  eruption  of  Koma-ga- 
take  took  place  on  the  22nd  August, 
1856,  when  all  the  neighbourhood 
of  the  present  hamlet  of  Yakeyama 
(lit.  'burning  mountain')  is  said 
to  have  been  denuded  of  trees. 
Inside  the  crater  a  certain  degree 
of  activity  is  still  displayed  in  the 
boiling  pools;  and  care  must  be 
taken  in  treading  on  all  circles  or 
ridges  of  ground  which  rise  slight- 
ly above  the  general  level,  as  they 
are  hollow  and  may  give  way. 
The  descent  to  the  place  where  the 
horses  are  waiting  only  occupies  a 
few  minutes.  The  height  of  Koma- 
ga-take  is  3,86a  ft.  There  is  no 
water  on  the  way  up. 

4.— The  Volcano  op  Esan. 

Itinerary. 

HAKODATE  to :—-  Ri.  Chd.  M. 

Yunokawa 1    29  -H 

Oyase 3      6  7i 

Toi 2    11  6f 

Shirikishinai  2    14  5f 

Nidanai 4    27  Hi 

TODOHOKKE 

(footof  Esan)..  19  3 

Total 15    23    38^ 


420 


Route  64. — From  Hakodate  to  Fnlmyama, 


This  constantly  active  volcano, 
between  1 ,900  ft.  and  2,000  ft.  high, 
is  the  first  point  of  the  Island  of 
Yezo  sighted  on  the  voyage  up 
from  Yokohama.  The  journey  thi- 
ther from  Hakodate  may  be  per- 
formed on  horseback  in  one  day ; 
but  it  is  better  to  allow  3  days  for 
the  whole  expedition  there  and 
back.  If  four  are  allowed,  the 
following  pleasant  round  trip  may 
be  made  : — first  to  tlie  Lakes  and 
Koma-ga-take,  and  thence  to  Ka- 
kumi  on  the  S.  shore  of  Volcano 
Bay,  where  arrangements  should 
at  once  be  made  for  a  boat  to 
convey  the  part^'  next  day  along 
the  coast  to  Todohokke. 

The  coast  is  bold  and  afifords 
striking  views,  some  water-falls 
which  leap  over  rocky  ledges 
into  the  sea  being  especially  beau- 
tiful. At  Todohokke  where  there 
is  an  inn  of  the  usual  country  type, 
a  guide  should  be  procured  to  lead 
the  party  up  the  mountain,  the 
summit  of  which  will  be  reached 
after  an  hour's  walk.  The  S.  side 
of  the  crater-wall,  by  which  the 
ascent  is  made,  has  been  com- 
pletely blown  away;  the  floor 
seethes  with  solfataras  and  springs 
of  boiling  water,  and  there  are  con- 
stant subterranean  rumblings.  The 
upper  portion  of  the  waU  of  the 
crater  is  of  a  bright  yellow  colour, 
and  emits  dense  whitish  fumes. 


ROUTE  64. 

From  Hakodate  to  Fukuyama  by 
Sea  and  back  by  Land. 

Itinerary  of  Land  Jowney. 

FUKUYAMA  to :—     Ri.  Cho.  M. 

Yoshioka     3  25  9 

Fukushima 1  9  ^ 

Shiriuchi    7  17 

Kikonai  2  24  6.^ 

Izumisawa 1  34  4^ 

Moheji    3  2  1\ 

Kami-iso     2  15  6 

HAKODATE    3  4  7.\ 

Total  25      5    61i 


The  quickest  way  to  Fukuyama 
is  by  steamer,  tlie  passage  occupying- 
from  6  to  7  hrs.  The  other  way  is 
overland,  a  distance  of  25  ri,  which 
can  be  accomplished  on  horseback 
in  2  days.  It  is  pleasantest  to 
combine  both  routes,  going  one 
way  and  returning  the  other.  If 
the  land  journey  be  done  from 
Hakodate,  there  is  the  advantage 
of  being  able  to  make  sure  of  gootl 
horses,  which  by  special  arrange^ 
ment  may  be  taken  through  all 
the  way.  On  the  other  hand,  by 
taking  the  steamer  from  Hakodate 
and  returning  by  land,  the  risk  of 
being  steamer-bound  at  Fukuyama 
is  avoided.  Walking  is  not  to  be 
recommended,  as .  there  are  num- 
bers of  streams  to  ford. 

Fiikiiyamai*  formerly  called  Ma- 
tsvmae.  *(I«?i,Tanaka-ya;  passengers 
arriving  by  the  steamer  can  put 
up  at  the  funa'y(vdOy  or '  boat-house,' 
known  by  the  name  of  Maini'hanr 
which  is  pleasanter  than  the  inn ; 
those  who  intend  to  stay  more 
than  one  day  arc  recommended  to 
ari*ange  for  accommodation  at  the 
Sato-ya,  a  clean,  quiet,  and  prettily 
situated  restaurant,  standing  on 
the  hill  behind  the  ^  town,  not  far 
from  the  castle  and  commanding  a 
good  view  of  the  sea).  Fukuyama 
is  situated  on  the  coast  to  the  S.W. 


Ftikiiyama  bach  to  Hakodate, 


421 


of  Hakodate.  The  population  in 
1890  -was  about  10,000,  showing 
a  decrease  of  no  less  than  40  per 
cent  since  1868. 

As  long  as  the  city  was  the  seat 
of  the   lords  of  Matsninae,  almost 
all     tlie    trade    of     Yezo    passed 
tliroxigh  it,    and   travellers    were 
obliged  to    come  here    to  obtain 
passports     before     proceeding    to 
otlier   points.      But  a  fatal  blow 
"was   dealt  to  its  prosperity  by  the 
destruction  of  property  which   ac- 
companied the  civil  war  in  1869,  and 
by  tbe  retirement  of  the  DaimyS  to 
*r6kyo  when  the  feudal  system  was 
broken  up.     It  has  been    further 
injured  by  the  growth  of  Hakodate 
.  — ^f or  Fukuyama  possesses  no  har- 
bour, but  only  an  open  roadstead. 
As    usual  in    provincial  Jai)anese 
capitals,  the  castle  was  built  on  an 
eminence    overlooking    the    town. 
All  that  now  remains,  besides  the 
three-storied  tower,  is  a  portion  of 
the  apartments  f  oi*merly  occupied 
by  the  Daimyo  himself.     In  1880 
the  greater  part  of  the  area  former- 
ly occupied  by  the  castle  was  con- 
verted into  a  small  Public  Garden. 
Outside  of  this  garden,  as  well  as 
of    the    former  precincts    of    the 
castle,   is    a    cluster  of    Buddhist 
temples,  the  remnant  of  a  larger 
number  which  existed  up  to  1869. 
These  were  the  finest  temples  in 
Yezo.      Only  two  are  now  worth 
visiting,  viz.  Kozenji  belonging  to 
the  Jodo  sect,  and  Ryu-un-in  be- 
longing to  the   Soto   sect,    which 
latter  has   been  the  leading    de- 
nomination in  this  district.     Ko- 
zenji, which  was  founded  in  1533, 
was  the  burial-place  of  the  Dai- 
myos'  consorts,  and  is  remarkably 
handsome.     In  the  court  in  front 
of  it  stands  a  large  stone  image, 
formerly  the    principal  object  of 
worship  in  a  temple  now  destroyed, 
which   was  called  after  it  Sekibu- 
tsu-do,  i.e.,  *  the  Hall  of  the  Stone 
Buddha.'      Eyu-un-in,   which  was 
founded  in    1625,  has    a  curious 


kakemono  of   'Shaka  Issuing  from 
the  Mountains.' 

The  return  journey  on  horseback 
is  a  pleasant  one.  The  traveller 
should  take  his  own  saddle,  though 
he  may  generally  count  on  being 
able  to  borrow  one  at  Fukuyama 
for  the  through  journey.  His  ser- 
vant will  mount  the  baggaare-horse, 
and  the  guide  is  also  mounted. 
Horses  may  be  taken  through  the 
whole  way ;  but  there  is  no  diffi- 
culty in  obtaining  relays  at  Shiri- 
uchi,  where  a  halt  should  be  made 
for  the  night.  Leaving  Fukuyama, 
the  road  passes  through  the  ham- 
lets of  Nemori  and  Osawa,  the  islet 
of  Benten-jima  and  the  island  of 
Kojima  being  seen  to  the  r.,  while 
on  the  1.  are  views,  not  only  of 
Yezo,  but  of  the  coast  of  the  Main 
Island.  At  the  hamlet  of  Araya 
the  road  strikes  inland  among  the 
beautifully  green  though  treeless 
hills,  and  the  road  soon  begins  to 
ascend.  From  the  summit  a  pretty 
view  of  Kojima  is  obtained. 

The  steep  descent  to  the  hamlet 
of  Eehige  is  called  the  Toshioka- 
toge — YosMoTca  being  the  general 
name  for  the  surrounding  hamlets 
— and  it  is  necessary  to  dismount. 
The  bottom  of  this  hill  is  1  H  from 
Fukuyama.  Thence  the  path  lies 
alon^  the  beach,  commanding  good 
views  of  the  sea  and  distant  shores. 
Cape  Yoshimo  standing  out  con- 
spicuously to  the  1.  It  is  a  short 
2  ri  to  the  vill.  of 

Fiikiisliiina.  On  leaving  this 
place,  the  path  again  strikes 
inland  for  many  miles  among  the 
hills,  wliich  are  here  wooded ;  but 
there  is  a  beautiful  glimpse  of 
the  sea  with  Iwaki-san  in  Nambu 
from  the  top  of  the  Fukushima- 
toge,  la  hr.  beyond  Fukushima. 
For  the  most  part  the  way  lies  over 
a  sort  of  upland  broken  by  gullies, 
the  streams  flowing  through  which 
have  almost  all  to  be  forded.  The 
largest  of  these  streams  is  that 
named  (or  nicknamed)  Ichi-no- 
Watari-gawa,  i.e.,  *  the  River  of  the 


422 


Route  65. — From  Hakodate  to  Esashi. 


First  Crossing/  To  the  r.  is  oc- 
casionally seen  Sengen-dake,  the 
highest  motintain  in  this  Yicinitj. 
At 

Sbiriiiclii,  regular  cultivation  be- 
gins and  the  rc^  improves.  Most 
of  the  rest  of  the  way  to  Hakodate 
is  flat,  and  runs  aJong  the  sea- 
shore. Accommodation  is  procur- 
able at  the  various  villages  through 
which  the  road  leadsl  After  passing 
through  Kikonai,  the  Treaty  Limit 
of  the  port  of  Hakodate  is  reach- 
ed. A  portion  of  the  way  lying 
through  the  jurisdiction  of  the 
vill.  of  Moheji  is  admired  for  the 
boldness  of  its  scenery.  Bluff  sand- 
stone cliffs  rise  abruptly  from  the 
sea,  and  at  a  little  distance  it 
looks  as  if  there  would  not  be  room 
to  pass  between  the  rocks  and  the 
water.  The  path  joins  the  main 
road  leading  to  Mori  1  ri  out  of 
Hakodate. 


EOUTE  65. 

From  Hakodate  to  Esashi. 

Itinerary. 

HAKODATE  to .—  Ri.  Chd.    M. 

Kameda 1    —      2^ 

Ono 4    —      9| 

Uzura 10    —    24^ 

Gamushi    2    —      5 

ESASHI    3    —      7i 

Total  20    —    48f 


The  above  distances  are  approx- 
imate. 

Starting  from  Hakodate  and 
passing  through  Kameda  on  the 
road  to  Nanae,  the  traveller  turns 
off  to  the  1.  along  a  new  road  to 

Ono  (Inns,  Kakudai,  Shinagawa). 
At  the  end  of  the  village  the  roads 
turns  abruptly  off  to  the  1.,  and 
gradually  ascends  for  a  distance  of 
4  ri  till  the  top  of   the  pass  is  | 


gained.  From  the  summit  a  good 
view  of  Tengu-take,  marked  by- 
three  fir-trees,  is  obtained,  and  the 
ride  to  the  village  of  Uzura  is  one 
of  the  prettiest  in  Tezo.  The  road 
winds  in  and  out  between  steep 
cliffs  above  a  foaming  river,  while 
the  bold  rocks  and  mountains  recall 
the  scenery  of  British  Columbia. 
At 

Uzura,  poor  accommodation  is 
provided  at  the  house  of  Nagao 
Jutaro,  but  it  is  better  to  push  on 
to  Esashi. 

[From  Uzura  a  path  diverges  to 
the  1.  across  a  river  to  the 
village  of  Tate,  2^  ri  distant, 
once  the  residence  of  the  Dai- 
myo  of  Matsumae.  The  castle 
was  destroyed  in  the  rebellion 
of  1868,  but  portions  of  the 
walls  can  still  be  traced.  The 
land  in  this  district  is  among 
the  most  fertile  in  Yezo.] 

Gamashi  (Inn  by  Oyama  Ta- 
sato). 

Esashi  (Inns,  Yamabuki  Seizo, 
Kakui)  is  an  old-fashioned  town  of 
14,000  inhabitants,  with  a  harbour 
unfortunately  too  much  exposed. 
Pine  views  can  be  obtained  from 
the  high  cliffs  behind  a  Buddhist 
temple.  Esashi  boasts  a  light- 
house, a  hospital,  and  a  telegraph 
and  other  government  offices. 
Koads  are  in  course  of  construction 
from  this  place  northwards  to  Shioji 
and  southwards  to  Fukuyama. 


Boitte  66. — To  Sapporo  and  Volcano  Bay, 


42S 


ROUTE  66. 

From   Hakodate  to  Sappobo  and 
Volcano  Bay. 

voyage   to   otaru.     [yoichi    and 
I wanai  ;  ACROSS  country  to  mom- 

BETSU  ON  VOLCANO  BAY.]  SAP- 
PORO. EXCURSIONS  FROM  SAP- 
PORO :  PORONAI,  HOKKYO,  LAKE 
CHITOSE.  OVERLAND  TO  MORORAN. 
[VOLCANO   BAY.]       MORI. 

Tliis  trip  includes  some  of  the 
best  portions  of  Yezo,  and  will  show 
the  traveller  within  the  limits  of  a 
week  or  10  days  as  fair  a  specimen 
of  the  island — its  scenery,  its 
modern  improvements,  and  aborigi- 
nal Ainos — as  it  is  possible  to  com- 
press witliin  so  short  a  time. 

A  fairly  good  steamer    of   the 
Nippon     Yusen    Kwaisha    leaves 
Hakodate  for  Otaru  every  fourth 
day,  the  passage  taking  22  hrs.  in 
fine  weather.    Occasionally  an  out- 
side steamer  may  be   availed  of. 
While  passing  through  the  Tsu- 
garu  Straits,  where  the  main  cur- 
rent always  runs  towards  the  E., 
the  steamer  hugs  the  cliff-bound 
coast  of  southern  Yezo.     Pour  hrs. 
from  Hakodate  it  passes  the  castle- 
town  of  Fukuyama,  formerly  called 
Matsumae,  for  centuries  the  resi- 
dence of  the  Daimyos  by  whom  the 
island  was  ruled.    Ahead  are  seen 
the  volcanic  islands  of  Oshima  and 
Kojima,  and    to    the  S.,    on    thi^ 
mainkind     of    Japan,     Iwaki-san, 
often  called    the    Northern    Fuji 
from  its  beautiful  logarithmic  cur- 
vatm*e.     If    the    steamer    leaves 
Hakodate  at  midday    (the    usual 
hour  of  sailing),  it  will  pass  the 
island  of  Okushiri  before    night- 
fall, and  by  morning    will   have 
rounded  the  high  cliffs  of  Shakotan, 
and  have  passed  *  Sail  Rock '  and 
the  shrine  on  the  cliff  to  which 
junks  make  obeisance  by  lowering 
their  sail.     From  this  point  it  is 
35  m.  to 

Otarn,  properly  Otariinai  (Inns, 
Etchn-ya^  Kito).    This  Aino  name 


means  'the  stream  (nai)  of  the 
sandy  (ota)  road  (ru).'  The  town 
is  now,  however,  entirely  Japanese. 
Next  to  Hakodate  it  is  the  largest 
and  most  bustling  on  the  coast,  the 
chief  industry  of  its  inhabitants 
being  herring  -  fishing  ( nishin ). 
The  only  evidences  of  the  former 
Aino  occupation  of  the  place  are 
the  flint  implements  and  fragments 
of  pottery  imbedded  in  the  soil, 
and  possibly  some  scribbling  on 
a  rock  in  a  suburb  called  Temiya. 

This  rock  has  terribly  perplexed  the 
learned.  To  begin  with,  are  the  inscrip- 
tions really  inscriptions  at  all  ?  If  so,  are 
they  of  Aino  origin — but  then  it  is  almost 
certain  that  the  Ainos  never  knew  aught 
of  writing?  Or  are  they  not  rather 
cognate  to  *  Bill  Stumps  liis  mark  *  ?  A. 
few  years  ago  the  authorities  caused  a 
shed  to  be  erected  over  the  rock  in  ques- 
tion, but  not  till  the  weather  liad  exercised 
so  disintegrating  an  influence  on  it  that 
there  is  now  little  left  to  argue  about. 

[There  is  a  fair  road  from  Otaru 
W.  along  the  coast  to  Tolclli, 
5  ri  20  cho,  whence  a  very 
pretty  mountain  road  leads 
across  the  neck  of  the  penin- 
sula to  IwaDai,  11  W  30  cho. 
From  Iwanai  a  very  rough 
road  leads  right  round  the 
S.  W.  of  the  island  to  Hakodate. 
It  is  also  possible,  from  a  point 
between  Yoichi  and  Iwanai, 
and  about  3  ri  from  the  latter 
place,  to  strike  off  in  a  S.E. 
direction  across  country  to 
Moiiibetsn  on  Volcano  Bay. 
The  distance  is  14  ri,  and 
takes  2  days,  tke  first  night 
being  spent  at  a  farm-house 
at  Sliiribetsn.  The  trail  is 
extremely  rough,  following 
water-courses,  and  passing 
through  bamboo-grass  and 
weeds  often  as  high  as  the 
traveller's  head  as  he  sits  on 
horseback.  Mount  Shiribetsu 
is  a  beautiful  isolated  cone 
from  6,000  ft.  to  7,000  ft.  high. 
Lake  Usu,  likewise,  along 
whose  shore  the  path  runs  for 
several  ri,  is  very  pretty. 
Mombetsu    has   a    beet -root 


424 


Route  66. — To  Sapporo  and  Volcano  Bay. 


sugar  factory,  capable  of  turn- 
ing out  75  tons  per  diem.] 

Hokkaido  Railway. 


Distance 

Names 

from 

of 

Otani. 

Stations. 

OTARU  (Temija). 

2  m. 

Sumiyoshi. 

6 

Asari. 

11 

Zenibako. 

IG 

Kanismwa. 

20 

Kotoni.   ' 

22 

SAPPORO. 

26 

Shiraishi. 

29 

Atsuhetsu. 

34 

Nopporo. 

36 

El)etsu. 

41 

HOROMUI  (Poronai). 

48 

Iwamizawa. 

54* 

NAIFUTO. 

The  railway  journey  from  Otaru 
to  Sapporo  occupies  about  2  brs. 
The  rolling  stock  is  American, 
and  the  line  is  said  to  have  been 
built  more  cheaply  than  any  other 
in  the  world.  The  scenery  is  very 
pretty  for  the  first  few  miles,  the 
railway  being  hemmed  in  between 
the  sea  and  bold  overhanging  rocks, 
and  affording  beautiful  views  of 
the  coast.  The  plain  surrounding 
the  mouth  of  the  river  Ishikari  is 
then  crossed,  and  the  rest  of  the 
way  runs  across  flat,  marshy  coun- 
try, covered  with  trees  and  tall  rank 
weeds,  to  Sapporo. 

Sapporo  {Hotel,  *Hohei-kwan, 
originally  intended  for  an  Imperial 
Palace;  Japanese  innsy  Yoshida, 
Tamagata-ya,  Kyoka-ro),  the  capi- 
tal of  the  island,  did  not  grow  up 
naturally  like  Majtsumae  in  old 
times  and  Hakodate  in  more  re- 
cent days,  in  obedience  to  the 
requirements  of  trade.  It  was 
created  by  official  fiat  during  the 
present  reign,  and  depends  for 
its  prosperity  chiefly  on  the  public 
institutions  established  there,  nota- 
bly on  the  Agricultiu'al  College 
which  is  the  last  remnant  of  the 
Xaitakushi,  or  Colonisation  Com- 
mission, and  on  the  Military  Colony 


(Tonden-hei)  in  the  neighbouring 
country.  The  Prefecture,  a  build- 
ing in  European  style,  will  vie  with 
anything  of  the  kind  in  Tokyo. 
There  are  also  saw-mills  and  flour- 
mills,  sugar,  hemp,  and  flax  fac- 
tories, a  brcTvery,  an  estabhsh- 
ment  for  making  wine,  and  a 
museum  well-worth  visiting,  be- 
sides small  theatres  and  other 
places  of  amusement.  The  salmon 
and  trout  fishing  for  which  Sap- 
poro was  formerly  noted  has  been 
a  good  deal  spoilt  by  the  estabUsh- 
ment  of  the  mills,  but  there  is  snipe 
and  duck  shooting  in  the  autumn. 
The  pleiasantest  walks  near  Sap- 
poro are : — 

1.  To  the  horse-farm  of  Mako- 
nomm. 

2.  To  the  top  of  Masuyama, 
whence  there  is  a  fine  view  of  the^ 
plain  surrounding  Sapporo  and  of 
the  River  Ishikari,  the  longest  in 
Japan . 

The  best  longer  excursions  are:— 

3.  On  foot  or  by  jinrikislia  to 
Kariki,  distant  about  1  iH.  There 
take  a  dug-out  canoe,  and  drift 
down  to  Ehetsu,  spinning  or  fly- 
fishing on  the  way.  Return  in  the 
afternoon  by  train. 

4.  By  train  to  Poronai,  to  see 
the  coal-mines  and  the  convict 
prison.  The  convicts  are  em- 
ployed in  the  mines,  the  daily 
output  being  from  600  to  1,000  tons. 
Those  desirous  of  visiting  the  site 
of  the  much-talked  of  new  capital 
— Hohky 6— mory  reach  it  by  carri- 
ase,  23  ri  to  Kamikawa  on  the  river 
Ishikari,  140  m.  from  its  mouth. 

5.  On  horseback  or  by  jinrikisha 
or  carriage  past  the  Makonomai 
horse  farm,  through  Ishiyamaon 
the  river  Toyohira  to  Jodankr 
where  there  are  hot-springs  and 
good  fishing.     Distance  6  H. 

6.  To  a  lake  7  W  from  Chitose,  the 
last  ri  by  Aino  boat  up  a  river  which 
threads  the  primeval  forest.  There 
is  a  beautiful  waterfall  on  the  way, 
unfortunately  much  hidden  by  the 
denseness  of  the  vesretation.    The 


Sapporo  to  Mororan.     Volcano  Bay. 


421^ 


lake  itself  is  completely  surrounded 
by  liigh  wooded  hills  except  on  one 
side,  Tvhere  there  is  a  bare  volcano. 
Th.e  flies  are  a  terrible  scourge. 

From  Sapporo  to  Mororan  on 
Volcano  Bay  is  a  2  days'  journey 
in  a  four-wheeled  covered  waggon, 
holding  two  persons  and  costing 
(in.  1890)  $4  per  head.  A  relay  may 
be  obtained  at  Tomakomai,  where 
the  flrst  night  should  be  spent. 

Itinerary. 

SAPPOEO  to  :—  Ri.  Cho.  M. 

Shimamappu  5  28  14 

Chitose 3  34  9^ 

Tomakomai 6  34  17 

Shiraoi 5  22  13f 

Horobetsu    6  30  i6f 

Mororan  5  1  12^ 

Mori   (by  steamer 

in  3  hrs.) —  —  — 

Nanae  7  10  I7f 

HAKODATE 4  8  lOi 

Total 46     23  111^ 


The  greater  part  of  the  excellent 
road  from  Sapporo  to  the  coast  is 
flat  and  nearly  straight,  lying 
through  a  dense  forest  completely 
shutting  out  the  view  on  either  side. 
During  the  summer,  this  region  is 
frequented  by  the  gad-fly  and  the 
locust,  the  former  of  which  is  a  per- 
fect plague  to  the  traveller,  while 
the  horses  are  tormented  by  ticks. 
Just  before 

Tomakomai  {Inn,  Kane-su),  the 
road  emerges  on  the  Pacific  shore, 
ajid  turns  to  the  r. 

£The  road  to  the  1.  leads  along 
the  coast  to  Yubutsu  and  Saru- 
f uto,  inland  from  which  latter 
place  is  Piratori,  the  largest 
settlement    of    the    southern 
Ainos.     A  good  description  of 
this  interesting  village  and  of 
the  way  there  is  given  in  Miss 
Bird's  'Unbeaten    Tracks    in 
Japan,'  Vol.  II.] 
From  here  onwards  there  are  occa- 
sional hills,  and  the  scenery  im- 
proves, especially  between  Shiraoi 


and  Horobetsu,  where  the  top  of 
an  ascent  commands  a  charming 
view  of  the  secluded  bay  of  Bam- 
bokke.  The  wealth  of  lilies  of  the 
valley  and  other  wild-flowers  in 
May  and  June  is  astonishing.  'A 
few  miles  inland  is  Nohot'ihetsut  cele- 
brated for  its  natural  hot  baths. 

Horobetsu  (Inn,  Suzuki)  is  a 
mixed  Japanese  and  Aino  village, 
the  centre  for  many  years  past 
of  the  Christianising  and  civilising 
endeavours  of  the  Rev.  John 
Batchelor,  of  the  Church  Mis- 
sionary Society. 

Mororan  (Inns,  Maru-ichi,  TJba- 
go)  is  beautifully  situated  on  a 
landlocked  bay,  but  is  shut  out 
from  all  view  of  the  neighbouring 
volcanoes.  It  is  noted  for  a  large 
sea-shell — the  hotate-gai,  or  Peden 
yessoensis.  Behind  the  hill  at  the 
back  lies  an  Aino  village. 

[The  traveller  who  does  not  mind 
bad  roads  and  very  poor  ac- 
commodation may,  instead  of 
the  steamer,  take  the  coast  route 
round  the  head  of  Volcano  Bay. 
The  track  lies  mostly  along 
the  shore,  except  where  in  two 
places  it  climbs  to  a  consider- 
able height  among  the  moun- 
tains. Several  Aino  villages  ex- 
ist in  this  secluded  region.  The 
1)est  are  at  Usu  and  at  Abuta. 
An  account  of  this  route  will  be 
found  in  Miss  Bird's  already 
quoted  book  of  travels.  The 
itinerary  is  as  follows : — 

SHIN-MOROEAN  to  :— 

Ri.  Cho.  M. 
Kyu-Mororan    6    22     16i 
Mombetsu...     3     13      8^: 

Abuta 4      7    lOi 

Rebunge 4      4    10 

Oshamambe..    6    33     17- 

Kuroiwa 4    31     llf 

Yamakushinai  4     10    lOi 

•         Otoshibe 2    24      6^ 

MORI 4      6    lOi 

Total....  41      6  lOOi] 


486 


Route  €/• — Tlie  S*E.  Coast  and  Southern  Kuriles, 


The  distance  accomplished  by 
steamer  from  Mororan  to  Mori 
across  the  month  of  Volcano  Bay 
is  aboat  22  miles.  The  anchorage 
at 

Hori  (Inns,  Yamaka,  Kawa-jii)  is 
not  good.  Nevertheless  the  town  is 
fairly  prosperous.  The  return 
hence  to  Hakodate  is  via  the  Lakes 
(see  p.  418). 


ROUTE  67. 

The  South-East  Coast  and  the 
Southern  Kuriles. 

During  the  summer  and  autiunn, 
the  Nippon  Yusen  Kwaisha  runs 
steamers  up  the  S.E.  Coast  of  Yezo, 
and  there  are  also  steamers  be- 
longing to  smaller  companies.  Oc- 
casional steam  communication  is 
kept  up  with  Kunashiri  and  Iterup. 
Continual  fogs  are  exi)erienced. 
Those  who  prefer  to  go  by  land  can 
do  so ;  but  they  are  warned  that 
there  is  little  of  interest  to  com- 
pensate for  the  hardships  on  the 
way.  In  many  places  it  is  a 
scramble  over  rocks  by  the  sea- 
shore, and  at  others  over  steep 
mountains.  There  are  also  six  or 
seven  large  rivers  to  cross,  which 
after  rain  are  often  impassable  for 
several  days.  The  itinerary  be- 
tween Hakodate  and  Tomakomai 
has  already  been  given  on  p.  425. 
From  Tomakomai  on  to  Nemuro 
is  a  distance  of  74  W,  or  180  m^ 
The  chief  places  visited,  whether 
the  journey  be  made  by  land  or  by 
sea,  are  the  ports  of  Kushiro,  Akke- 
shi,  and  Nemiu:o. 


Knshiro  (Inn,  Eanekichi)  is  a 
growing  town,  whose  chief  exports 
are  coal  and  sulphur.  Fine  views 
are  obtained  of  0-Akan  and  Me- 
Akan,  two  high  mountains  to  the 
N.  At  no  other  place  in  Yezo  are 
so  many  relics  of  the  stone  age  to 
be  found  as  at  Kushiro.  The  hills 
in  the  neighbourhood  are  covered 
with  hundreds  of  dwellings,  which 
are  attributed  by  some  investi- 
gators to  the  Koropok-guni,  a  race 
beheved  by  them  to  have  inhabited 
Yezo  before  the  Ainos.  Several 
camps — or  what  have  been  con- 
sidered such — are  seen  on  the  crests 
of  the  hills,  as  also  two  or  three 
well-formed  earthen  forts,  one 
called  Moshiriya  near  the  river, 
and  the  others  at  Lake  Harutori^ 
about  2  m.  from  the  town,  where 
likewise  is  a  modem  Aino  village. 
Coal  has  recently  been  discovered 
at  the  head  of  the  lake. 

Akkeshi  (Inn,  Chiigenji)  is  npted 
for  its  oysters,  there  being  whole 
reefs  entirely  composed  of  these 
creatures.  An  oyster-tinning  estab- 

'  lishiiient  on  the  American  plan 
has   existed  here  for  many  years 

'  past. 

;       The  coast  between  Akkeshi  and 
'  Nomuro  is  remarkable  for  the  per- 
;  sistently  tabular  aspect  of  the  main- 
land and  of  the  islands  near  it.    Of 
I  the  latter,  the  chief  are  :  1.  Yururi, 
V.  Takashima  and  Ko-Takashima, 
mere  low  ledges  of  rock,  in  spite  of 
their  names  which  signify  *  Lofty 
Island,'  and  '  Small  Lofty  Island/ 
The  high  far-off  mountains  to  the 
1.  are  Me-Akan,  0-Akan,  the  snow- 
sprinkled  ranges  of  Menashi-yama 
and  d-Menashi-yama,   and  ahead 
Rausu-zan   and  Chacha-nobori  in 
the  island  of  Kunashiri. 

Neiniiro  (Inn  by  Suzuki  Zen- 
suke)  is  a  thriving  town  of  about 
2,000  houses,  and  possesses  an 
Agricultural  College.  The  har- 
bour is  good,  but  freezes  over  com- 
pletely in  winter,  the  ice  extend- 
ing as  far  as  the  eye  can  reach. 


Route  OS.'^From  Kmhiro  to  the  N.E.  Coast. 


427 


The  Kubile  Islands. 

The    Kuriles,  of   which  Knna- 
shlii    and   Iteriip   are   thp    two 
Bouthenuuost,  derive   their  name 
from  the  Bussian  word  kurity, '  to 
smoke/  in  allusion  to  the  numerous 
volcanoes     which     they    contain. 
The  Japanese  name  is  Chishima^ 
or  •  the  Thousand  Isles.*  From  No- 
tsu-no>saki,  the  headland  stretch- 
ing N.  W.  of  Nemuro,  to  Tomari, 
the  nearest  port  in  Kunashiri,  is  a 
distance  of  3  ri.    From  Nemuro  it 
takes  some  5  hrs.  to  reach  Batwii- 
zarif  prettily  situated  on  the  sea- 
shore,   3i    m.    to  the  £.    of   the 
solfataras,  to  work  which  is  the 
object  of  having  an  establishment 
in  this  place.     This  part  of  the 
island  is  thickly  wooded  with  coni- 
fers of  various  species,  while  ferns 
and    flowering-plants    form     the 
undergrowth.  Bears  abound.  From 
a  clearing  in  the  forest  we  get  a 
beautiful  glimpse  of  the  singularly 
shaped  Chacha-nohori,  a  cone  with- 
in a  cone,  the  inner  and  higher  of 
the  two  being — so  the  natives  say — 
surrounded  by  a  lake,  while  away 
to  the  N.  £.  the  sulphur  is  seen 
boihng  up  at  four  distinct  spots  on 
the  flaiik  of  Bausu-zan.    Another 
solf  atara  is  said  to  exist  on  the  other 
side  of  the  mountain.    There  are 
also  several  hot-springs  and  a  hot 
stream.    One  of  these  springs  bub- 
bles up  on  the  beach,  near    the 
factory,  by  whose  inhabitants  it  is 
used  as  a  bath. 

The  chief  port  of  Iterup  is  Sha- 
na,  on  the  N.  side  of  the  island.  A 
road  leads  from  Shana  to  another 
town  at  the  N.  E.  extremity,  about 
65  m.  distant,  and  there  is  also  a 
road  in  the  opposite  direction  for 
50  m.  Horses  can  be  obtained  for 
the  greater  part  of  these  journeys. 
The  interior  of  the  island  is  covered 
with  a  forest,  which  can  only  be 
penetrated  by  following  up  the 
watercourses.  The  streams  are 
aUve  with  salmon  from  August  to 
December,  and  bears  are  plentiful. 


ROUTE  68.       . 

Feom  Kushiho  to  Abashibi  on  the 
North-East  Coast  and  Round 
TO  Nemuro.   • 

Itinerary  (approximate). 

KUSHIROto:—  Ri.  M. 

Tore    7  17 

Shibetcha  6  14f 

Iwo-san  10  24^ 

Yamabetsu    —  — 

Abashiri  19  46^ 

Shari  9  22 

Wakkani    11  26f 

Chirai-watari    9  22 

Shibetsu.... 7  17 

Betsukai 8  19i 

NEMUEO 7  17 

Total 93    227 


A  new  road  running  by  the  side 
of  the  river  has  been  made  from 
Kushiro  to  Shibetcha ;  but  if  the 
traveller  prefer,  he  can  take  pas- 
sage in  the  steam  launch  which 
leaves  daily.  There  is  a  fine  lake, 
6  ri  in  circumference,  near  Toro, 
(Inn  by  Matsumoto),  a  village  con- 
sisting of  two  or  three  Japanese 
houses  and  some  twenty  Aino  huts. 
At  Shibetcha  (Inns,  Daihei,  Yo- 
kota)  there  is  a  convict  settlement 
of  about  ],200  prisoners,  and  a 
steam  factory  for  refining  sulphur. 
Good  salmon  and  salmon  trout 
fishing  may  be  had  here  from  July 
to  October.  A  railway  24  m.  long 
connects  Shibetcha  with  Two -sail, 
*  sulphur  mountain.*  It  is  intended 
for  the  carriage  of  svilphur  from  the 
mountain,  but  passengers  may  also 
get  a  li^t. 

[Not  following  the  railway  track, 
but  turning  aside  for  a  dis- 
tance of  ^  ri,  the  traveller 
reaches  the  hot-springs  of 
SeisMTcaga,  where  good  accom- 
modation may  be  had  at  Moto- 
yama's  house.      Four  ri   fur- 


428 


Route  68.— The  North-East  Coast. 


ther  on  is  another  lake,  called 
Kucharo,  12  ri  in  circumfer- 
ence^ and  having  in  the  centre 
some  islands  containing  hot- 
springs.  The  lake  is  deep  and 
clear,  and  affords  good  fishing.] 

At  the  railway  terminus  of  Iwo- 
san  is  an  inn  by  Yakeyama. 
Splendid  views  are  obtained  of 
0-Akan,  Me-Akan,  and  the  sur- 
rounding country.  The  sulphur 
is  of  first-rate  quality,  and  is  ex- 
ported in  large  quantities  to 
America.  From  Iwo-san,  the  travel- 
ler descends  to  Yamabetsu  on  the 
sea-shore.  There  being  no  accom- 
modation here,  it  is  best  to  hurry 
on  to 

Abashiri  {Inn,  Ishiyama).  Eelics 


of  the  ancient  pit-dwellers  may  be 
seen  on  the  hills. 

From  here  on  to  Shari  the  road 
skirts  the  coast,  then  striking 
inland  over  the  mountains,  and 
coming  out  again  by  the  sea  at 
Shibetsu,  whence  it  once  mare 
follows  the  coast  to  Nemuro.  Withi 
the  exception  of  Shibetsu  and 
Betsukai,  none  of  the  places  passed 
through  offer  better  accommoda- 
tion than  Aino  huts. 

s 

Those  desirous  of  exploring  the 
N.E.  coast  of  Yezo  can  do  so  by 
turning  to  the  1.  at  Abashiri,  whence 
a  road  leads  the  whole  way  to 
Soya,  a  distance  of  71  ri  (173  m.), 
near  the  N.  extremity  of  the  is- 
land. This  journey,  however, 
offers  little  or  no  interest. 


APPENDIX. 


I. — From  Inawashibo  to  Yone^awa   v%&  Bandai-san  and  the 
•  HiBABA  Pass. 

Hvti^TCLiru 

INAWASHIRO  to:—                               *  Ri.  Cho.  M, 

Tamanaka  Onsen  hut 3  —  7i 

Nagamine 3  —  7i 

Hibara 2  6  5^ 

Top  of  Pass 2  —  6 

Tsunagi 1  20  3f 

YONEZAWA 4  —  »t 

Total 15        26        38i 

Time,  2  days. 

Jinrikislias  can  only  be  taken  for  1^  ri  in  the  Yonezawa  plain. 
From  Inawashiro  to  Hibara,  luggage  must  be  sent  round  vi&  Shiokawa 
and  Oshio, — to  Shiokawa  6  n  by  jinrikisha  or  packhorse,  from  Shiokawa 
to  Hibara  5a  ri  by  packhorse  only,  in  all  11^  ri. 

For  the  ascent  of  Bandai-san,  see  p.  186.  From  the  hut  near  the 
spot  where  the  view  of  the  devastated  district  is  first  seen,  it  is  possible 
either  to  continue  the  circuit  of  the  Bandai  group  over  the  site  of  the 
cataclysm,  or  to  proceed  north  over  the  same  to  Hibara  which  lies  at  the 
further  end  of  the  newly  formed  lake.  The  way  leads  down  for  nearly 
2  n  to  the  shore  of  the  lake,  then  ascends  1.  a  hill  on  the  top  of  which 
the  waste  is  suddenly  abandoned  for  a  grand  old  forest,  then  down  and 
by  the  lake,  with  the  skeletons  of  the  trees  still  sticking  up  out  of  the 
water,  to  Nagamine,  1  ri  more.  Here  a  boat  can  at  times  be  got  to  Hi- 
bara; otherwise  1  ri  by  the  shore  and  1  ri  6  cho  over  the  Kurobe-toge  to 

Hibara  (Inn  by  Ota),  a  village  left  half  in,  half  out  of  the  water  by 
the  formation  of  the  new  lake.  Streets  lead  into  the  lake,  and  trees 
—some  yet  alive — stick  up  from  out  of  it. 

Across  the  lake,  15  cho  on  the  way  up  the  Hibara-toge,  are  the  build- 
ings of  the  Silver  Keduction  Works  -,  thence  1  ri  to  a  tea-house,  and  20  cho 


4d0  Appendix. 

more  to  the  top  of  the  pass  through  superb  fo)^st  and  by  a  good  path. 
From  the  summit  there  is  a  view  of  hills  running  off  into  the  Yonezawa 
plain.    Thence  10  chd  down  to  a  tea-house,  and  1  ri  10  chd  more  to 

Tsanagri  (Inn,  Aizuya),  a  mountain  village.  From  here  the  way 
leads  over  two  low  passes,  from  the  first  of  which  there  is  a  fine  view  of 
Asahi-dake  and  Gwassan. 

Tonezawa  (see  p.  194). 

II. — Fboh  YomszAWA  to  Murakami  vid  Miomote. 
This  route,  which  is  recommended  to  mountaineers  only,  takes  3  days. 

Itinerary. 

TOKEZAWAto:—  RL  Chd.  M. 

Eomatsu 3  —  7i 

Tenoko 3  9  8 

Oguni 9  —  22 

Funato 2  —  5 

Arazawa 2  18  6 

Miomote   . 3  —  7i 

Iwakuzure       * 5  —  12^ 

MURAKAMI 5  —  12i 

Total 32        27        80 


Jinrikishas  can  be  taken  as  far  as  Funato,  and  again  from  1  ri  below 
Iwakuzure  to  Murakami.  The  road  lies  first  along  the  edge  of  the 
plain,  then  over  a  slight  "ascent,  and  up  the  valley  of  the  Shirakawa  to 
Tenoko  (Inns,  Yamagata-ya  and  another  1  ri  beyond  the  village,  kept  by 
a  man  named  li).  TIk;  old  road  over  the  Sakura-toge  is  no"  longer  used. 
The  new  road  leads  over  the  Uzu-toge  and  then  down  the  valley, 
and  eventually  through  the  fine  gorge  of  the  Uzugawa.  It  is  in  places 
almost  tunnelled  out  of  the  cliffs  above  the  stream.  Snow  lies  in  patches 
here  till  the  middle  of  June.  lide-san  is  well  seen  to  the  1.  before 
reaching 

Oguni  (Inn  by  Nozawa  Yohei).  Thence  a  very  bad  jinrikisha  road 
and  a  ferry  over  the  Arakawa  lead  to 

Fnnato  (accommodation  at  the  house  of  the  headman  of  the  vUlage). 

Arazaif'a  or  Ito  (accommodation  at  the  house  of  the  headman). 

From  here  a  road  direct  to  Murakami  branches  off  1.  The  path  to 
Miomote — a  mountain  trail — keeps  on  up  the  valley,  climbs  a  steep 
ridge,  and  crosses  a  long  pass  whose  successive  dips  bear  different  names. 
Asahi-dake  is  seen  to  the  r.  After  2  ri  the  path  descends  to  a  stream 
which  has  to  be  forded ;  thence  1  ri  more  takes  the  traveller  to  the  Mio- 
mote-gawa.    This  too  may  have  to  be  foMed  j  but  usually  a  boat  can  be 


A'pjimdix,  431 

found  by  contmning  up  the  bank  to  a  pool  at  the  entrance  of  the  gorge. 

On  a  little  level  space  opposite  stands 

Miomote    (accommodation  at  the  temple),    surrounded    by    hills 

entirely  wooded  except  for  ledges  of  rock.    A  picturesque  walk  of  10- 

cho  may  be  taken  up  through  the  gorge  of  the  Miomote-gawa  and  back. 

The  trail  to  Iwakuzure,  whict  is  very  rough — it  is  5  ri  and  takes  7 

Kours — ^le^ds  straight  up  the  Azuki-zaka  opposite  to  a    spring  called 

Mwwki  8himizUf  or  Magnolia  Spring,  and  thence  over  steep  slopes  and ' 

lidges  across  a  jumble  of  heavily  wooded  hills.  About  1  ri  from  Miomote, 

"by  tl\0  side  of  the  path,  stands  a  shrine — a  tiny  shed  over  a  stick  with 

gohei — dedicated  to  the  local  mountain  god,  Dorokujin. 

As  the  porters  pass,  each  lays  a  leaf  on  the  shrine,  and  offers  up  a  prayer  for 
safe  keeping.  It  seems  that  Dorokujin  was  one  day  passing  this  way  to  the  Magnolia 
Spring,  when  he  met,  at  the  ravine  called  Ozawa,  a  beautiful  maiden  who  was  none 
other  than  the  goddess  Benten.  She  consented  to  wed  him,  and  then  left,  promising 
to  return  j  but  as  she  never  came  back,  he  still  waits  and  wanders  over  the  mountains, 
looking  after  the  safety  of  wayfarers. 

After  a  distant  peep  at  the  sea  from  the  Toyaba-toge,  the  path  de- 
scends to  Ozawa,  2i  ri,  which  is  merely  a  stream  that,  by  choosing  one's 
spot,  can  be  crossed  from  rock  to  rock ;  then  it  rises  over  the  Ozawa-toge, 
and  descends  again  to  the  Miomote-gawa,  whose  steep  bank  it  follows  1. 
high  up,  passing  a  second  shrine  to  Dorokujin  at  a  vantage  point  com- 
manding a  bend  in  the  river.    It  is  2^  ri  more  to 

Iwakaznre,  where  one  may,  by  walking  on  1  ri  further,  get  jin- 
rikishas  to 

Marakaiui  (Inn,  *  Mura-ya).  A  still  better  plan  is  to  hire  a  boat 
direct,  and  drop  down  the  rapids  to  the  town,  5  ri,  in  about  2  hours. 

"III. — From  Murakami  to  Tsuru-ga-oka  via  the  Agari-toge. 

Itinerary. 

MURAKAMI' to :—  Bi.  Cho.  M. 

Nakamura  (by  the  Shindo)       .        .        .         .  8  31  21^ 

Arakawa 18  1^ 

Nakatsugi 1  —  2^ 

Yamakumada 2  18  6 

Top  of  Agari-toge 2  10  5^ 

Oizumi-mura 1  26  4 

Higashi  Odori 18  l^- 

Tazawa 2  15  6 

Hongo •        .  2  28  6f 

TSUEU-aA-OKA    .        .        .        .        .        .  5  —  12i 

Total 27        20        671^ 

This  is  a  very  rough  3  days*  journey,  recommended  to  none  but 
mountaineers.     Streams  have  occasionally  to  be  forded.     The  only 


482  Appendix, 

acoommodation  is  at  the  house  of  the  headman  of  each  village.  JinriH- 
shas  are  practicable  as  far  as  Nakamura,  and  again  from  Higashi  Odori, 
but  must  not  be  counted  on. 

IV. — From  Tsubtj-ga-oka  to  Sendai  viA  the  Eokujubi-gob  and  the 

SEKIYAHA-TOaE,      3  DaYS. 

Itinerary, 

TSUEU-GA-OKA  to:—  Bi.  Cho,  3f. 

Matsune 2  33          7 

Top  of  Jino-toge 1  —          2J 

Churenji  Onsen 8            ^ 

Oami 1  —          2i 

Tamugi 1  —          2| 

Sasagoya  (hut) 3  —          7i 

Top  of  Kokujuri-goe        .        .      x .        .        .  1  18          3f 

Shizu 2  —         5 

Hondoji 3  —          U 

Mizusawa 1  20          3f 

Kaishio 1  17          3i 

Sekiyama 8  —  19i 

Sakunami ,  5  34  14|r 

Ayako .  4  —          9f 

SENDAI 3  —          7i 

Total. 39        22        96f 

This  mountainous  route  affords  many  delightful  views. 

V. — Eeferring  to  Dr.  Naumann's  statement  concerning  the  non- 
existence of  Yudono-san,  quoted  on  p.  205,  Mr.  Percival  Lowell  informs 
us  that,  though  not  itself  a  mountain,  it  is  a  holloiu  on  the  shoulder  of  a 
mountain  called  XJmba-ga-take.  This  spot  is  considered  sacred,  and  is  a 
goal  of  pilgrims.  Those  who  affirm  and  those  who  deny  the  existence 
of  the  sacred  mountain  would  therefore  seem  to  be  equally  in  the  right, 
as  the  question  is  one  which  turns  on  the  definition  of  the  word  '  moun- 
tain,' or  rather  of  the  Japanese  word  san. 


^ 


GLOSSARY  OF  JAPANESE  WORDS. 


JLij  a  species  of  trout — ^the  Salmo 

aUivalis. 
JLir-no-ma,  see  p.  23. 
A.ha-hara,  a  fresh-water  fish. 
A-ma-do,    rain-doors,    such    as    in 

Japan  do  duty  for  walls  at  night. 
Aitui-inu,  see  p.  24. 
Ame,  a  sweet,  glutinous  substance 

prepared  from  rice  or  millet. 
Ana,  a  hole,  a  crater,  a  tunnel. 
Asemij  a  flowering  shrub — the  An- 
dromeda japonica. 
Basha,  a  carriage. 
Bctshi  (for  haslii  in  compounds),  a 

bridge. 
Betto,  a  groom. 
Bonji,  the  Sanskrit  or  P&li  written 

character. 
Bonien,  Brahma. 
Bosatsu,  see  p.  28. 
Bu,  the  tenth  part  of  a  Japanese 

inch  (see  p.  6). 
Bugaku,    an     ancient    pantomimic 

dance. 
Bunko,  a  library,  a  box  for  books. 
Buyu,  a  species  of  sand-fiy. 
Chadui,  tea-money  (see  p.  7). 
Cha-no-yu,  the  tea  ceremonies. 
Ctiayaj  a  tea-house  (see  p.  8). 
Chigi,  see  p.  24. 
Chijimi,  crape. 
Choy  a  measure  of  distance  (see  pp. 

5 — 6),  a  street. 
Chozu-hachi,  a  wash-hand  basin>  a 

cistern. 
Dai,  a  stand,  a  table. 
Bai,  big,  great. 
Daibutsu,  a    colossal    image    of  a 

Buddha. 
Daidokoro,  a  kitchen. 
Daigahu,  a  university,  an  academy. 


Daimon,  the  great  gate  of  a  Bud- 
dhist temple. 
Daishi,  a  great  Buddhist  abbot  or 

saint. 
Darani,  a  mystic  Buddhist  formula 

or  incantation. 
Do,  a  hall,  one  of  a  set  of  temple 

buildings. 
Dori   (for   tori    in    compounds),   a 

street. 
Ema-do,  a  hall  hung  with  ex-votos. 
Fvde,  a  Japanese  pen. 
Fusunia,     sliding-screens    covered 

with  paper. 
Futon,  a  bed-quilt. 
Gtty  of. 

Gakko,  a  school. 
Gawa  (for  kawa  in  compounds),  a 

river,  a  stream. 
Gedan,  the  lower  and  less  honour- 
able portion    of    certain   grand 

apartments, 
G^in,  the  outer  chamber  or  nave  of 

a  Buddhist  temple. 
Gin,  silver. 

Go,  an  honorific  prefix. 
Go,  a  measure  of  capacity  (see  pp. 

6,  115). 
Gohei,  the   emblems  in   a    Shinto 

temple  of  the  ancient  offerings 

of  cloth;  they  are  now  usually 

strips  of  white  paper. 
Goko,  a  halo,  a   glory    round  the 

head  of  a  saint. 
Goma-do,  a  temple  for  the  recital  of 

prayers  while  a  fire  of  clean  woo^ 

is  burnt. 
Gongen,  see  p.  29. 
Goroju,  the  Council  of  State  under 

the  Tokugawa  Shogunate. 
Gwaikokujint  a  foreigner. 


484 


Glossary, 


•Gwaimusho,  the  Foreign  Office. 

HaJe-kei,  eight  views  (see  p.  318). 

HakuiivisurJcican,  a  museum. 

Hama,  the  sea-shore. 

Hara,  a  moor. 

Harakiri,  suicide  performed  by  rip- 
ping up  the  abdomen. 

Hashi,  a  bridge. 

Hashira,  a  pillar. 

Hashiri,  a  glissade. 

Hatago,  see  p.  7. 

Hatanwto,  a  vassal  of  the  Shogun 
having  a  fief  assessed  at  less 
than  10,000  kohi. 

Heiden,  a  building  for  the  recep- 
tion of  gohei. 

Higashi,  east. 

Hinoki,  the  CliamoecyparU  ohtusa — a 
conifer  whose  wood  is  used  in  the 
construction  of  Shinto  temples 
and  palaces. 

Hiragana,  the  running  hand  form 
of  the  Japanese  Kana,  or  syl- 
labary. 

Hiirw-ne,  a  siesta. 

Honden,  se^  Honsha. 

Hwxdoy  the  principal  building  of  a 
Buddhist  monastery. 

Hongwanji,  see  p.  45. 

Hmijin,  a  tea-house  formerly  used 
by  a  Daimyo. 

Honto,  true,  real. 

Honsha,  the  main  shrine  of  a  Shin- 
to temple — sometimes  rendered 
*  chapel.* 

Honzon,  the  principal  deity  or  im- 
age of  a  Buddhist  temple. 

Hoto,  a  Buddhist  reliquary  or  trea- 
sure-house. 

Hozo,  the  treasure-house  of  a  tem- 
ple. 

Ichi,  a  fair. 

Icho,  the  name  of  a  tree  whose 
leaves  turn  gold  in  autumn, — ^the 
Salishuria  adiamtifolia,  also  called 
(ringho  hiloha. 

In,  a  seal,  a  symbol. 

Ishi,  a  stone. 

Ita-gaki,  see  p.  24. 

Iwa,  a  rock. 

Iwana,  a  fresh-water  fish. 

Iwaya,  a  cavern. 

Ji  (at  end  of  temple  names),  a 
Buddhist  temple. 


I  Jigoku,  hell. 

Jiki-do,  see  p.  27. 

Jitnusho,  a  business  office. 

Jinja,  a  Shinto  temple. 

Jinriiisha,  a  small  light  vehicle 
drawn  by  one  or  two  men. 

Jodan,  the  raised  and  therefore 
more  honorable  portion  of  certain 
grand  apartments. 

Kaerurmata,   (lit.    frog's    thighs) 
pieces  of  timber  shaped  like  the 
section  of  an  inverted  cup,  sup- 
porting a  horizontal  beam. 

Kago,  a  land  of  small  palanquin. 

Kdgo-waiashi,  a  basket  slung  to 
rox)es  and  used  instead  of  a 
bridge  for  crossing  a  river. 

Kagura,  a  Shint5  pontomimie 
dance :  Kagura-do,  a  stage  for 
the  performance  of  this  dtmce. 

Kaido,  a  highway. 

Kaisan,  opening  up  a  mountain, 
hence  founding  a  temple:  Jcai- 
san^,  a  temple  dedicated  to  its 
founder. 

Kcikemono,  a  hanging  scroll  — 
generally  painted. 

Kama,  a  cauldron. 

Kanjiki,  snow-shoes. 

Kami,  above,  upper. 

Kami,  a  Shinto  god  or  goddess. 

Kanio-a4)i,  the  name  of  a  plant — 
the  a^sarum,  whose  leaf  is  the 
crest  of  the  Tokugawa  family. 

Kana,  the  Japanese  syllabary. 

Kane,  money;  long  measure  (see 
p.  6). 

Kannushi,  a  Shinto  priest. 

Kara-mon,  a  gate  in  the  Chinese 
style. 

Katsuogi,  see  p.  24. 

Kama,  a  river. 

Ken,  a  measure  of  length  (see  p.  5). 

Kencho,  the  head  office  of  a  pre- 
fecture. 

Keishicho,  a  police  bureau. 

Keydki,  a  tree  whose  very  hard 
is  wood  much  prized — tiie  Zd- 
kowa  keaJci. 

Ki,  a  tree. 

Kiji-mono,  mosaic  wood-work. 

Kin,  gold. 

Kin,  a  pound  (weight)  ;  see  p.  6. 

Kirin,  a  unicorn. 


Glossary, 


485 


Kita,  north. 

Kohan,  an  ancient  gold  coin  of  oval 
sliape. 

Koenchi,  a  public  garden  or  park. 

Kokity  the  standard  measure  of 
capacity  (see  p.  6).  Incomes 
'W'ere  formerly  estimated  in  kohi 
of  rice. 

Koma~inu,  see  p.  24. 

Kondo,  lit.  the  "golden  hall" — often 
one  of  the  handsomest  buildings 
of  a  Buddhist  monastery. 

Kongd-kai,  the  name  of  one  half  of 
the  universe  according  to  Bud- 
dhist mythology. 

Kotsu-dd,  a  temple  containing  the 
ashes  of  a  deceased  saint. 

Ku,  a  district  in  a  city. 

Kujira,  a  whale;,  cloth  measure 
(see  p.  6). 

Kunaisho,  the  Imperial  Household 
Department. 

Kuruma,  a  jinrikisha. 

Kusu-no-ki,  a  camphor-tree. 

Kvxu,  the  Pueraria  thv/nbergiana — 
a  plant  from  which  a  kind  of 
arrowroot  is  made. 

Kwai,  a  society,  an  association. 

Kwaird,  a  gallery. 

Kwaisha,  a  company,  a  society. 

Kwan,  a  hall,  an  edifice. 

Kwan,  the  legal  unit  of  weight  (see 
p.  6). 

Kwankoha,  an  industrial  bazaar. 

Kyakuden,  a  reception  room. 

Kyodai,  brothers. 

Kyoryuchi,  a  foreign  'concession/ 
that  part  of  a  Japanese  city  in 
which  foreigners  are  permitted 
to  reside. 

Kybzd,  a  library  of  Buddhist  scrip- 
tures. 

Ma,  a  room. 

Mdchi,  a  street,  a  town. 

Makiniono,  a  scroll. 

Mandara,&  Buddhist  picture — gene- 
rally on  a  large  scale  and  depict- 
ing one  half  of  the  mythological 
universe. 

Mannen-bashi,  see  p.  132. 

MasakaJci,  see  sakaki. 

Massha,  see  p.  24. 

Masii,  a  salmon-trout  {SaZniojapo- 
nicies). 


Matsu,  a  pine-tree. 

Matsurif  a  religious  festival. 

Megane,  spectaicles,  an  eye-glass. 

Mirharashi,  a  prospect,  a  view  down 
and  over. 

Mihoto,  see  p.  31. 

Minamij  south. 

Mino,  a  straw  rain-coat  such  as  is 
used  by  peasants. 

Mino-gami,  a  stout  variety  of  Japa- 
nese paper,  such  as  is  used  for 
the  illustrations  of  temples  in 
pp.  23  and  26. 

Mokusei,  the  Olea  fragrans — a  tree 
having  small  highly  scented 
flowers  of  a  reddish*  yellow 
colour. 

Momme,  a  standard  of  weight  (see 
p.  6). 

3f(m,  a  g^te. 

Monzeki,  a  temple  of  the  Monto 
sect,  same  as  a  Hongwanji ;  see 
also  p.  294. 

Mushi-hoshi,  a  general  airing. 

Muyo,  not  wanted,  must  not. 

Nada,  a  stretch  of  sea. 

Naijin,  the  inner  chamber  or  chan- 
cel of  a  Buddhist  temple. 

NaJca,  middle,  inside. 

Nashiji,  aventurine  lacquer. 

Nehanzo,  see  p.  32. 

Nenibutsu,  a  prayer  to  Buddha. 

Netsuke,  see  p.  13. 

Ningyo,  a  doll,  a  small  figure. 

Nippon,  Japan. 

Nishi,  west. 

No,  of. 

No,  a  species  of  lyric  drama — ^fche 
only  theatrical  performance 
much  patronised  by  the  Japa<- 
nese  nobility. 

Norinumo,  a  palanquin. 

Nure-hotoke,  a  Buddhist  image 
standing  in  the  open  air. 

Nuri,  lacquering. 

0,  an  honorific  prefix. 

O,  big  (in  compound  words). 

Oban,  an  ancient  gold  coin — ^large 
and  oval  in  shape. 

Oka,  a  hillock,  a  mound. 

Ohi-no-in,  the  holy  of  holies,  the 
innermost  or  furthest  of  a  set  of 
temple  buildings ;  it  often  stands 
on  a  hilL 


436 


Glossa}^. 


On,  an  honorific  prefix. 

Onna-zaka,  see  pp.  62,  73. 

Ori,  woven  stuff. 

Otoko-zaka,  see  pp.  62,  73. 

Rakan,  see  p.  31. 

JZomma,  ventilating    panels     neal* 

the  ceiling  of  a  room ;  they  are 

often  beautifully  carved. 
Beiya,  a  mausoleum. 
Renge,  a  lotus-flower. 
Ri,  a  Japanese  league  (see  p.  5-6). 
RUcyu,  a  summer  palace. 
Rin,  a  copper  coin  worth  the  tenth 

part  of  a  cent, 
Rinzo,  a  revolving  library  meant  to 

contain  the  Buddhist  scriptures; 

see  p.  87. 
Ryobu-Shintdy    a    hybrid    religion 

formed  by  a  mixtiu*e  of  Shinto 

with  Buddhism. 
RyUy  a  dragon. 
Ryugi  or  ryw,  a  school,  a  manner, 

— as  of  art. 
Sakaki,   the    Cleyera  japonica — ^the 

sacred  tree  of  the  Shintoists. 
Sakate,  a  tip,  a  pourboire. 
Sake,     rice-beer,     hence    alcoholic 

liquors  generally. 
8ama,  Lord,  Mr.,  Mrs.,  Miss. 
Sammorit  the  large  two-storied  gate 

at  the  entrance  to  the  grounds 

of  a  Buddhist  temple. 
Sampan,  a  shore  boat. 
Samurai,   a    two-sworded    man,    a 

nobleman's  retainer. 
San,  Mr.,  Mrs.,  Miss. 
San  (in  compounds),  a  mountain. 
San-ju-rok-ka-$en,  see  p.  80. 
San-kei,  the  three  great  sights   of 

Japan,  viz.  Matsushima,  Ama-no- 

Hashidate,  and  Miyajima. 
Saru,  a  monkey. 
Sehi,  a  barrier,  an  octroi. 
Sen,  a  cent. 

Seto-mono,  crockery  ;  see  p.  242. 
Shake,  a  salmon. 

Shaku,  a  foot  (measure)  ;  see  p,  6. 
Shakudo,  an  alloy  of  copper  and 

gold. 
Shakujd,  a  staff  with  metal  rings 

used  by  Buddhist  priests. 
Shamusho,  the  office  at  which  the 

business  of  a   Shinto  temple  is 

transacted. 


Shihu-ichi,  an  alloy  of  copper  and 

silver. 
Shima,  an' island. 
8him4),  beneath,  lower. 
Shindo,  a  new  road. 
Shinsenjo,  a  place  for  offerings  in  a 

Shinto  temple. 
Shira-ito,    white    thread — a    namfr 

often  given  to  waterfalls. 
Shiro,  a  castle. 
8hd,  a  measui'e  of  capacity;  (see 

pp.  6,  115). 
Shdgun,  see  pp.  34,  47. 
Shcfin,  an  apartment,   a  drawing- 
room. 
Shoji,  a  sliding  paper  door  which 

serves  as  a  window. 
Shokubutsri-en,  a  botanical  garden. 
Shord,  a  belfry. 
Soshi-do,  a  chapel  dedicated  to  the 

founder  of  a  sect. 
Shu,  a  sect. 

Soncho,  the  mayor  of  a  viUage. 
Shuku,  an  abode,  a  post-town. 
Shumirdan,  the  altar  of  a  Buddhist 

temple.  ^ 

Shumi-sen,    a    fabulous    mountain 

which  is  the  centre  of  the  Bud- 
dhist universe. 
Somen,  vermicelli. 
Sotoha,  see  p.  71. 
Sugi,  a  cryptomeria. 
Suim,on,  a  water-gate. 
Suji'kahe,  see  p.  46. 
Sun,  a  Japanese  inch  (see  p.  6). 
Tahotb,  a  reliquary  in  the  shape  of 

a  pagoda. 
Tai,   &   kind    of    sea-bream  —  the 

Serranus  niarginalis. 
Taizo-kai,  the  name  of  one  half  of 

the  universe   according  to   the 

Buddhist  mj'thology. 
Taki,  a  waterfall. 
Tama-gaki,  see  p.  24. 
Tani,  a  valley. 
Tanjo,  birth. 
Teikoku,  an  empire. 
Tempo,  an  oblong  brass  coin  having 

a  hole  in  the  middle  and  worth 

eight-tenths  of  a  sen. 
Tengu,  a  long-nosed  goblin. 
Tenno,  the  Mikado. 
Tera,  a  Buddhist  temple. 
To,  a  measiure  of  capacity  (see  p.  6). 


Glossary, 


437 


Toge,  a  pass  over  mountains. 

Tokko,  see  p.  30. 

Tohonoma,  an  alcove. 

Torii,  a  Shinto  gateway  (see  p.  24). 

T&ro,  a  stationary  lamp  or  lantern 

— e.g.  of  stone. 
T8uho,    the  unit  of    land  measure 

(see  p.  6). 
Tnunrugi,  spun-silk  cloth. 
Tatinri-bashit  see  p.  128. 
Yama,  a  mountain,  a  iiiU. 
Yanagi-gori,  see  p.  11. 
Yashcb,  a  Buddhist  demon. 
Yitahilciy  a  mansion. 
Yashiro,  a  Shinto  temple. 


Uhiyo'€,    a    picture    representing 

popular  Ufe. 
Ura,  back,  behind. 
Ura,  a  stretch  of  coast. 
Waraji,  a  straw  sandal  used  only 

for  heavy  walking. 
Tadoya,  an  inn,  a  hotel. 
Yakusho,  a  government  office. 
Yatsu-mune-zukuri,    having     many 

gables — said  of  a  roof. 
Yen,  a  Japanese  dollar. 
Yusen,  a  mail  steamer. 
Zan   (for    san    in    compounds),   a 

mountain,  a  hill. 
Zcuihikiy  a  room,  an  apartment. 


INDEX. 


(When  there  are  several  references,  the  most  important  is  given  first.) 


ABA 


Aba,  386. 

AbashiH,  428. 

Ab5-toge,  234. 

Abuta,  425. 

Ada,  339. 

Adams  (Will),  59,  283,  286. 

Aden  (near  Kdbe),  280. 

Agano-gawa,  186. 

Agari-tSge,  431. 

Agatsoma-gawa,  145, 148. 

Agematsu,  273 ;  239.  ' 

Agune,  407 

Aikawa,  227. 

Aikawa-hama,  212. 

Ainos,  415;  192,  210,  229. 

Ai-no-take,  133. 

Aitsu,  390. 

Aizen  Myo-o,  27. 

Aizn,  187. 

Ajiro,  109. 

Ajisuki-Taka-liikone,  158, 160. 

Akabane  Junction,  64. 

Akadake,  138, 139. 

Akagi-san,  151, 171. 

Akakura  (near  Myoko-zan),  223. 

Akakura  (near  Ashio),  169. 

Akama,  392. 

Akama-ga-seki  (see  Shimonoseki). 

Akanagi-san,  163. 

Akanuma-ga-hara,  164, 166. 

Akao,  240,  244. 

Akappori,  163. 

A'^nffahft,  73. 

AJuwawa,  130. 


ABSENALS 

Akashi,  281. 

Akayn,  202. 

Akazaki,  349. 

Akecbi,  243,  314. 

Akechi  Mitsnhide,  244. 

Akiha,  264 ;  241. 

Akita,  203,  204. 

AkkesM,  426. 

Amagi,  394. 

Amagi-san,  110. 

Ama-no-Hashidaie,  347,  348. 

Ama-terasu,  27 ;  22,  248. 

Amatsn,  180, 181. 

Amebata-yama,  132. 

Amida,  27. 

Amihari,  199. 

Anadaira,  237. 

Anan,  28. 

Anderson,  Dr.  Wm.,  2,  37, 40, 45. 

Andrews,  Eev.  Walter,  Pr^, 

Anjin-zuka,  60. 

Aomori,  202. 

Ao-no-Komyoji,  314. 

Aoyama,  73. 

Arai,  225. 

Arai-yd,  147. 

Arashi-yama,  295,  315. 

Araya,  206. 

Arayama  (Akagi-san),  151. 

Arayama-tdge,  229. 

Arayasu,  222. 

Arayu,  183. 

Arazawa,  430. 

Arima,  282. 

Arita,  895. 

Arnold,  Sir  Edwin,  74. 

Arsenals,  78. 


Indeau 


489 


ART 

Art,  12, 

Art  Museum  (Kyoto),  300. 

Art  School  (Tokyo),  82. 

AsaM-dake,  207,  429. 

Asakiisa,  84. 

Asama  vill.  (near  Matsumoto),  220. 

Asama-yama,  J.44, 147,  219. 

Asama-yama  (m  Ise),  251. 

Asamushi,  201. 

Ase-kaki  Jizo,  341. 

Asliikaga,  151.  - 

Ashikaga  Shoguns,  34,  44,  293,  et 

pass. 
Ashikaga  Yoshimasa,  312. 
AsMkaga  Yoshimitsu,  292,  293. 

Ashikura  (in  Koshu),  134 ;  133,  135. 

Asliikura  (near  Tateyama),  231. 

Ash.i-nazuchi,  351. 

Ashi-no-umi,  97. 

Ashi-no-yu,  101,  97. 

Ashio,  167. 

Ashitaka-yama,  116. 

Asliiwara-koku,  355. 

Aso-san,  402. 

Atago-san  (Sendai),  195. 

Atago-yama  (at  Karoizawa),  143. 

Atago-yama  (Kyoto),  314. 

Atago-yama  (Tokyo),  73. 

Atami,  108 ;  106,  111. 

Atsumori,  42. 

Atsuta,  244,  245. 

Awajl,  352. 

Awata-guchi,  308. 

Awata  Palace,  309. 

Azabu,  '73. 

Aziiki-zaka,  431. 

Azuma,  143. 

Azuma-baghi,  87. 

Azuma-yama,  193. 


B 


Baba  (Otsu),  269,  318. 
Baienji,  109. 

Bakan  (see  Shimonoseki).    - 
Bandai-san,  184, 192,  194,  429. 
Bange,  187. 
Banks,  6. 
Banyu-ga^a,  124. 
Batch^or,  Bey.  Jnc,  426. 


CHISHIHA 

Baths,  7, 16. 

Bells  (great),  301,  308,  328. 
Benkei,  36. 
Benten,  28. 
Benten-daki,  146. 
Benten-yama,  101. 
Benzaiten,  28. 
Beppu,  399. 
Besshi,  375. 
Betsukai,  428. 
Bird,  Miss,  425. 
Bishamon,  28. 
Bismarck  Hill,  281. 
Biwa  Lake,  317  ;  268. 
Blakiston,  T.  W.,  416,  417. 
Bluff  (Yokohama),  54. 
Boju,  4(n.. 
Benin  Islands,  3. 
Bonten,  28. 
Books  on  Japan,  2. 
Boots,  removing  the,  8, 16. 
Bosatsu,  28 
Boshu,  171. 

Botanical  Gardens,  78. 
"  Boys,"  5. 
Buddhism,  24 ;  9,  22. 
Budo-yama,  207. 
Buko-zan,  140. 
Bungo  Fuji  (see  Yufu). 
Burando  Yakushi,  222. 
Buson,  37,  312. 
Byobu-ga-ura,  367. 
Byddo-in,  316. 


Capron,  Greneral,  416. 
Cave-dwellings,  96. 
Cave-temple  of  Kwannon,  139. 
Cemetery  of  Koya-san,  341. 
Cemeteries  (Imperial),  79,  299. 
Chacha-nobori,  427. 
Chiba,  174. 

Chichibu,  135;  96,  126, 133. 
Chidori,  170. 
Chijiwa,  385. 
Chikubu-shima,  322. 
Chikuma-gawa,  220. 
Chion-in,  306. 
Chishima^  427. 


440 


Index. 


CHITOSS 

Ohitose,  424, 

Oho  Densu,  37. 

Ohofu  (see  Toyoiira). 

Ohokai-zan,  205. 

Chomeiji-j'ania,  319. 

Choshi,  176. 

Chuai  Tenno,  365. 

Chuda,  354. 

Chusonji,  197. 

Ohuzenji,  165,169. 

Climate,  8. 

Circular  Railway,  64. 

Clothing,  8. 

Confucius,  temples  of,  77,  151. 

Cormorant  Fishing,  93. 

Curios,  13. 

Curio  Street  (TokyG),  77. 

Currency,  5. 

Custom-house,  3. 

Czarewitch,  319 ;  45. 


Daibutsu  (Hyogo),  282. 
Daibutsu  (Kamakura),  56. 
Daibutsu  (Kyoto),  300. 
Daibutsu  (Nara),  328. 
Daibutsu  (Tokyo),  80. 
Daienji,  91. 
Dai-ga-hara,  136. 
Daiganji,  174. 
Daikoku,  28. 
Dainichi-do,  161. 
Dainichi  Nyorai,  28. 
Dainichi-toge,  207. 
Daira-botchi,  175. 
Daira-ura,  228. 
Daisen,  349. 
Daishaku,  198,  199. 
Daishoji,  228. 
Daitd  Kokushi,  292. 
Daitokuji,  292. 
Daiyagawa,  154,  ]()0. 
Dango-zaka,  78. 
Dan-no-ura,  46,  366. 
Dashiwara-dani,  238. 
Date  Masamune,  82, 
Dazaifu,  393;  32,88. 
Death-Stone,  184. 
Deer  Island,  412. 


ITCHU 

Deer  Park,  162. 
Dengyo  Daishi,  37,316. 
Denzu-in,  78. 
Diet,  Imperial,  74. 
Dixon,  J.  M.,  78. 
Dobutsu-en,  83. 
Dockyard  (Nagasaki),  381. 
Dogashima,  99. 
Dogo,  366. 
Dorogawa,  338. 
Dorokujin,  431. 
Doryo-san,  104. 
Doshisha,  291. 
Dosojin,  28. 
Doyo,  175. 
Dress,  8. 
Dzushi,  58. 


Ebisu,  28. 

Ebisu-Minato,  226.  227. 

Eboshi-jima,  361. 

Eboshi-yama,  207. 

Echigo  Fuji,  207. 

Educational  Museiim,  77. 

Eight  Beauties  of  Omi,  318. 

Eikwando,  310. 

Eirinji,  122. 

Eitel,  Dr.  E.  J.,  Pref. 

Ejiri,  261,  262. 

Eko-in,  88. 

Emi,  180. 

Emma-0,  28. 

Emperor,  present,  322. 

Ena-san,  133,  137.         ,\\ 

Enchin,  304.  y^. 

Engineering  College,  .74^.  -*  • 

Enno,  136. 

Enno  Shokaku,  37,  338. 

Enoshima,  57. 

Enoyu,410.  \       ^ 

Enryo-kwan,  90.     i,. 

"  Ertogroul,"  275.'  * 

Esan,  419. 

Etajima,  363.     , 

Esashi,  422. 

Eshin,  37. 

Eta,  88. 

Etchu,  230. 


.\  •. 


%_. 


Index. 


441 


FESTIVALS 


Festi^-als,  65. 

Fischer,  380. 

Fisli-"breeding  establishment,  322. 

Fishing,  14,  165. 

"  Fixed  Routes,"  4. 

Foreign  Concession  (Tokyo),  90. 

Formosan  Expedition,  36, 

Forty-seven  Eonins,  73. 

Fucbii,  93 

Fu  Daishi,  87.    - 

Fudo,  28, 175. 

Fudo,  temples  of,  176;  91. 

Fugen,  28. 

Fugen-dake,  388. 

Fuji.  114. 

Fujikawa,  136;  128. 

Fuji-mi  jn-san-shu,  115. 

Fuji-no-Mori,  317. 

Fujisan,  116,  317. 

Fujisawa,  258. 

Fukagawa,  89. 

Fukai*a  Pass,  107. 

Fukiage,  82. 

Fukuchiyama,  344. 

Fukue,  411. 

Fukui,  228. 

Fukiimachi,  344. 

Fukuoka,  392. 

Fukura  (near  Ohokai-zan),  205. 

Pukura  (in  Awaji),  355. 

Fukurokuju,  29. 

EHikusMma  (in  Yezo),  421. 

Fukushima  (North  Ry.),  192. 

Fukushima   (on  Nakasendd),  273; 
239. 

Fukuwara,  41, 42,  283,  288. 

Fukuwata,  182. 

Fukuyama  (Inland  Sea),  363. 

Fukuyama  (Matsumae),  420,(423. 

Funabashi,  174. 

Fnnak9>ira,  208. 

FunaliilM,  208. 

Puna&;r*430. 

Funatsu  (near  Fuji),  1^1,  138. 

Funatsu  (on  Takahara-gawa), 
233 

Puruichi,  246. 

Purukawa,  196. 

Furumachi,  182. 


GONOBN 

Furuyu,  396. 
Fusan,  412. 
Fushiki,  229. 

Fushimi  (on  Nakaeendo),  274. 
Fushimi,  palace  of,  296,  et  pass, 
Futa-ara,  153, 158. 
Futago,  93. 
Futago-yama,  101. 
Futakuchi-toge,  202. 
Futami,  250. 
Futamiya,  164. 
Futatabi-san,  280. 
Futatsu-goya,  183. 
Futsukaichi,  393. 
Futsunushi,  176. 
Futtsu-saki,  275. 

Fuwa  Barrier,  268. 

4 


Gakushi  Kai-in^  83. 

G^mushi,  422. 

Ganjii-san,  198.' 

Geku  temple,  248 ; .  247. 

Genji  Monogatari,  43,  281,  322.  * 

Gen-Sammi  Yorimasa,  316. 

Gensan,  412. 

Gero,  236. 

Gifu,  268;  235. 

Ginkakuji,  312. 

Ginza,  77. 

Gion,  32. 

Gion  (Kyoto),  307. 

Glover  and  Co.,  384. 

Gochi,  225. 

Go-chi  Nyorai,  29. 

Gochoda,  147. 

Go-Daigo,  37, 

Godo,  168, 169. 

Gods,  most  popular,  27. 

Gohonsha,  232. 

Go-hyaku  Rakan,  31. 

Go-hyaku  Rakan,  temples  of,  88, 

91,  267. 
Gojo,  339. 
Gokamura,  131. 
Gokase-gawa,  405. 
Gokokuji,  79. 

Gompachi  and  Komurasaki,  91. 
Gongen,  29, 158. 


442 


Index, 


OONGEN 

Gongen  (Hakone),  105. 

Gongen-dake,  138,  139. 

Go-no-he,  201. 

Goroju,  174. 

Goroka-dake,  238. 

Goryochi  (NikkeO,  362. 

Ck)ryokaku,  417. 

Go-Shirakawa,  Emperor,  300. 

Gotemba,  116,  259,  103,  114. 

Goto  Islands,  412. 

Goyo-san,  215. 

Goyu,  265. 

Gozu  Tenno,  32. 

Griffis,  Eev.  W.  E.,  Pref.t  2,  228. 

Guides,  4. 

Gunge,  356. 

Gwaryobai,  89. 

Gwassfen,  205,  429. 

Gyogi  Bosatsu,  38. 


H 


Habu,  112. 
Hachi-ga-machi,  234. 
Hachi-ishi,  152. 
Hachijo,  112,  113. 
Hachiman,  29,  89,  314. 
Hachiman  Taro,  198,  207. 
Hacliioji,  95,  123. 
Hachiro-gala,  208. 
Ha^i,  352. 
Haguro-san,  205. 
Haijima,  125. 
Haiki,  383. 
Hakata,  392. 
Hakii,  130,  135. 
Hakkei,  318 ;  59. 
Hakodate,  416. 
Hakone,  105;  97. 
Hakosaki,  392. 
Haku-san,  239,  231. 
Hamada,  352. 
Hamamatsu,  264. 
Hamamura,  352. 
Hamana  Lagoon,  264. 
Hamasaki,  395. 
Hamura,  125. 
Hanamaki,  198. 
Hanare-yama,  143. 
Hanashiki,  149. 


HiaASHI  OTANI 

Hanawa,  169. 

Handa,  246. 

Handa,  mines,  194. 

Haneo,  149. 

Hanging  Bridge,  128,  135. 

Hankai  Eailway,  286. 

Hannen,  Mrs.  N.  J.,  Pref. 

Hanno,  126. 

Harada,393. 

Harinoki  Pass,  237. 

Harris,  Townsend,  111. 

Haruna,  146. 

Hase,  333. 

Hashiba,  220. 

Hashikura,  373. 

Hashikura  Rokuemon,  82. 

Hashimoto  (near  Koya-san),  339. 

Hashimoto  (near  Kyoto),  314. 

Hashino  Nakatomo,  84. 

Hashitate,  139. 

Hata  (Hakone),  103. 

Hata  (near  Tateshina-yama),  138. 

Hawes,  Lieut.  A.  G.  S.,  Pref. 

Hayachine  yama,  198,  214. 

Hayakawa  (Hakone),  98,  107. 

Hayakawa  (Koshii),  131. 

Hayakawa  village,  132. 

Hegawa-kawa,  214. 

Hemi,  59. 

Hibara,  194,  429. 

Hibiya,  75. 

Hida  (Province),  230. 

Hida  (in  Bungo),  393. 

Hida  (in  Buzen),  398. 

Hida  Kaido,  235. 

Hidari  Jingoro,  38,  155. 

Hideyori,  300. 

Hideyoshi,  38,  306,  342. 

Hie,  31. 

Hie  no  Jinja,  74. 

Hiei-zan,  323 ;  44. 

liigane-toge,  106, 109. 

Higashi  Fushimi,  Prince,  294. 

Higashi  Hongwanji  (Kyoto),  303. 

Higashi  Hongwanji  (Tokyo),  84. 

Higashi  Iwase,  230. 

Higashi  Kirishima,  409. 

Higashi  Odori,  432. 

Higashi  Mochiya,  271. 

Higashi  Ogawa,  170. 

Higashi  Otani,  307. 


Index. 


443 


HIOASHI  dTAHA 

fiigaslii  Oyama,  187. 

Siino  Misaki,  276. 

Sijikawa,  375. 

:B:ikage,  149. 

Sikawa  (Tokyo),  73. 

Sikawa  (on  the  Tamagawa)^  126, 

140. 
Hikone,  322,  369. 
Siko-san,  394. 
Himeji,  362. 
Himi,  389. 
Himi-toge,  382. 
Hirabayashi,  134. 
Hirado,  362. 
Hirahama,  107. 
Hirano,  282. 
Hirano  Jinja,  292. 
Hirasawa.  138,  139,  272. 
Hiratsuka,  61. 
Hirayu,  234. 
Hirazawa,  206. 
Hirosaki,  208. 
Hirose,  233. 
Hiroshima,  363  j  352. 
History,  34. 
Hitachi,  171. 
Hito-ana,  121;  117. 
Hitoyoshi,  410. 
Hiyama,  344. 
Hiyoku-zuka,  91. 
Hiziime,  198. 
Ho,  132.  * 

Hoei-zan,  116. 
Hofukuji-toge,  220. 
Hojo,  180. 

Hojo  Regents,  34,  43,  110. 
Hoka-zan,  384. 
Hokigawa,  182. 
Hokkaido,  415. 
Hokkaido  Railway,  4Z4. 
Hokkoku  Kaido,  222. 
Hokkyo,  424. 
Hokoda,  177. 
Hokurokudo,  270. 
Hommonji,  92. 
Honen  Shonin,  310. 
Hongo,  110. 
Hongwanji    temples,  84,    90,   253, 

266,  285,  302,  303. 
Honjo  (near  Akita),  206. 
Honjo  (near  Takasaki),  140. 


IIZUKA 

Honjo  (Tokyo),  88. 
Honkokuji,  301. 
Honoki  Shimizu,  431. 
Honzawa,  138. 
Ho-o-zan,  134,  136. 
Horikiri,  88. 
Hori-no-uchi,  93. 
Horiuchi,  58. 
Horobetsu,  425. 
Horyuji,  324,  331. 
Horse-shoe  Valley,  281. 
Hosokute,  274. 
Hosonaga,  406. 
Hoso-o  Pass,  167. 
Hossawa,  126. 
Hotel,  29. 
Hotoke,  29. 
Hotoke-iwa,  158, 160. 
Hotta  family,  174. 
Hozu,  315. 
Huish,  M.B.,  2. 
Hunter's  Gap,  280. 
Hutchinson,  Rev.  A.  B.,  Pref. 
Hyakkwan,  404. 
Hyaku-ana,  96. 
Hyaku-nin  Is-shu,  319,  327. 
Hyaku-sawa,  208. 
Hyogo,  282. 
Hy5ri-yama,  211. 


I 


Ibuki-yama,  268. 

Ichibata-yama,  351. 

Ichikawa  Ferry,  96. 

Ichi-no-he,  201. 

Ichi-no-miya,  356. 

Ichinoseki,  196.  • 

Ichi-no-tani,  282,  42. 

Ide-zawa,  134. 

lemitsu,  38. 

leyasu,  39,  300. 

Igano,  355. 

lida,  240. 

lide-san,  207,  430. 

ligai,  336. 

lijima,  240. 

li  Kamon  no  Kami,  75,  322. 

lizaka,  194. 

lizuka  (Takasaki),  141,  147. 


444 


Index, 


IIZUKA 

JIE  DAI8HI 

liziika  (in  Kyushu),  391. 

Isobe,  141 . 

lizima-san,  222. 

Isshinden,  253. 

Ikao,  145. 

Itabashi  (Tokyo),  64. 

Ikeda  (in  Shikoku),  373. 

Itabashi  (near  Kofu),  138. 

Ikeda  (on  Tenryii-gawa),  241. 

Itakura  Shigemaaa,  389. 

Ikeprami,  92 ;  26. 

Iterup,  427. 

Iki,  362. 

Ito  (Arazawa),  430. 

Ikisu,  177. 

Ito  (in  Izu),  109,  111. 

Ikudama,  285. 

Itoi-gawa,  230. 

Iknno,  31f4. 

Itomi,  131 

Ikuta,  280. 

Itsiikaichi,  126. 

Imabari  (see  Imaharu). 

Itsuknshima  (see  Miyajima). 

Imaharu,  366. 

Iwabiichi,  259;  135, 136. 

Ima-i,  331. 

Iwai,  196. 

Imaisurugi,  229. 

Iwai-nuski,  176. 

Imari,  395. 

Iwaki,  187. 

Imba  Lagoon,  174. 

Iwaki-san,  208,  423. 

Imose-yama,  336. 

Iwaknni,  365. 

Inada-hime,  351. 

Iwaknzure,  431. 

Ina^i,  174. 

Iwamurata,  271. 

Inago,  138. 

Iwanai,  423. 

Ina  Kaido,  240,  244. 

Iwanuma,  195. 

Inamura-dake,  206. 

Iwase  Matahei,  39. 

Ina.ri,  29,  298. 

Iwashimizu  Hachiman-gii,  314. 

Inari-kawa,  163. 

Iwataki,  348. 

Inari  station,  269. 

Iwate-san,  198. 

Inari  temple  (Kyoto),  298. 

Iwaya-dake,  383. 

Inasa-yama,  382. 

Iwo-san,  427. 

Inawashiro,  184,  429. 

Izanagi,  29 ;  22. 

Inawashiro  Lake,  183. 

Izanami,  29. 

Inland  Sea,  357. 

Izawa,  137. 

Innai,  204. 

Izu,  108,  111.                4 

Ino,  372. 

Izugaharaj  411. 

Ino  Cbiikei,  73. 

Izumi  Strait,  276. 

I-no-Hayata,  316. 

Izumo,  great  temple  of,  360 ;  23. 

I-no-kashira,  94. 

Izumosaki,  226. 

Insatsu  Kyoku,  76. 

IziiTia-san,  222. 

Inns,  7. 

Izu  no  Shichi-to,  111. 

Irako-zaki,  245. 

Izuru,  caves  of,  150, 153. 

Irimachi,  152. 

Izu-san,  109 ;  107. 

Iriyama-t6ge,  143. 

Isahaya,  389. 

Ise,  244. 

J 

Iseji,  245. 

^^ 

Ise  Ondo,  247. 

Jakko,  161,  162. 

Ishikake-yama,  100. 

James,  Lieut.  T.  H.,  Prrf. 

Ishikari  river,  424. 

James,  Mrs.  T.  H.,  345. 

Ishikawa-jima,  90. 

"  Japan  Mail,"  Pre/.,  76,  219. 

Ishinomaki,  211;  196. 

"  Japanese  Fairy  Tale  Series,"  320, 

Ishiyama-dera,  321. 

345. 

Ishizuchi-yama,  375. 

Jie  Daishi,  84. 

Index, 


445 


JIGEN  DAI8HI 

■Jigen  Daishi,  84,  154. 

Jikaka  Daishi,  86. 

Jikan,  162. 

Jikkokn-toge,  106. 

Jimmu  Tenno,  40. 

Jinmra  Tenno,  Mausoleum  of,  332. 

Jingo  Kogo,  40. 

Jin-ga-mine,  343. 

Jinguji,  204. 

Ji-no-shima,  276. 

J^inzu-gawa,  232. 

Jizo,  2A,  101. 

Jizo-ga-take,  133. 

Jodanke,  424. 

Jo-ga-hana,  233. 

Jogashima,  60. 

Josetsu,  40. 

Joshinji,  89. 

Jiimon-toge,  139. 

Ju-ni  Doji,  86. 

Ju-ni-kai,  87. 

Juniso,  93. 

Ju-ni-ten,  295. 

Junnin,  Emperor,  353,  355. 

Junsaimura,  418. 

Junsai-numa,  418. 

Jurojin,  29. 

Juroku  Kakan,  31. 

Ju-san-toge,  274. 


Kabe,  352. 
Kabuki-za,  90. 
Kabuto-kami-san,  214. 
Kachiyama,  180. 
Kadori,  176. 
Kaempfer,  36. 
Kaga  Yashiki,  77. 
Kagemori,  139. 
Kagoshima,  407. 
Kaigane-san,  135. 
Kaikawa,  375. 
Kaimon-dake,  410. 
Kainose,  375. 
Kaitakushi,  415,  418. 
Kaito,  245. 

Kajika-zawa,  131, 135. 
Kajiki,  409. 
Kakegawa,  264. 


KABITA 

Kakujo,  252. 

Kakumi,  420. 

Kamado,  274. 

Kamafuse-zan,  201. 

Xamagawa,  140. 

Kamagori,  260. 

Kamaisbi,  215. 

Kamakura,  55. 

Eamanashi-gawa,  131, 136. 

Eamatari,  335. 

Eameda,  422. 

Eameido,  88. 

Eamezawa-gawa,  122. 

Eameoka,  344. 

Eami-Gamo,  313. 

Kami-ichi,  336. 

Kami-ide,  121;  117. 

Kamikane,  127. 

Kamikawa,  424. 

Kami  Nishino,  236. 

Kami-no-Suwa,  137. 

Eiiminoyama,  202. 

Eamishima,  246. 

Kamiya,  339. 

Kami  Yashiro,  246 ;  244. 

Kamman-ga-fuchi,  160. 

Kammuri-ga-take,  100. 

Kamozawa,  127. 

Kamuro,  339. 

Kana-ga-saki,  228. 

Kanagawa,  54,  62. 

Kaname-ishi,  177. 

Kanaoka,  42. 

Kanaya  (Boshu),  179. 

Kanaya,  (Tokaido),  264. 

Kanazawa  (in  Kaga),  228. 

Kanazawa  (near  Lake  Suwa),  137. 

Kanazawa  (near  Yokohama)^  59. 

Kanda  Myojin,  77. 

Kane,  339. 

Kane-ga-take,  131 . 

Kannawa-mura,  399. 

Kanna-yama,  224. 

Kano  family,  40. 

Kano-san,  178. 

Kan  Shojo,  32. 

Kanzaki,  396. 

Kaori,  194. 

Karakimimi-dake,  410. 

Kariki,  424. 

Kariya,  363. 


446 


Index, 


EJLSASAKI 

Karasald,  819. 
Karizaka-toge,  140. 
Kamizawa,  142. 
Karuizawa-Naoetsu  Eailway,    219, 

270. 
Kasama,  173. 
Kasamori,  176. 
Kasatori-toge,  271. 
Kashii,  392. 
Kashima,  177. 

Kashiwabara  (Naoetsu  Ky.),  223. 
Kashiwabara  (Osaka-Nara  £j.),  324. 
Kashiwabara  (near  Sakurai),  332. 
£ashiwara-yama,  354. 
Kashiwazaki,  225. 
Kasho,  29. 
Kasuga,  326. 
Katase,  58,  57. 
Katashina-gawa,  170. 
Kato  Kiyomasa,  41,  401. 
Kato  Shirozaemon,  242. 
Katsunuma,  124. 
Katsuragi-yama,  336. 
Katsura-gawa  rapids,  315. 
Katsnra  no  Eikyu,  297,  287. 
Katsuyama,  240. 
Kawachi,  404,  405. 
Kawaguchi  (near  Fuji),  138 ;  121. 
Kawaguchi  (on  Miyode-gawa),  372. 
Kawaguchi  (on  Yoshino-gawa),  373, 

375. 
Kawakami,  J^56. 
Kawanoe,  373. 
Kawara-yama,  382. 
Kawasaki  (Ise),  250. 
Kawasaki  (near  Tokyo),  63. 
,  Kawa-uchi  (N.E.  coast),  214. 
Kazusa,  171. 
Keage,  318;  217. 
Kegon,  165. 
Keicho-zan,  183. 
Keigashima,  259. 
Keiki,  ex-Shogun,  262. 
Kei  no  Matsubara,  356. 
Ken-ga-mine,  118. 
Kenninji,  304. 
Ken-no-mine,  222. 
Kesen-numa,  215. 
Kiga,  99. 
Kiimi-dera  344. 
Kii  Promontory,  276. 


KOIBHIWASA 

Kikonai,  422. 

Kikuchi,  Professor,  185. 

Kimbo-san,  403. 

Kimpu-san,  see  Kimbo-san. 

Kimpu-zan,  123. 

Kinkakuji,  292. 

Kinko-zan,  308,  318. 

Kinkwa-zan,  211,  212. 

Kinomiya,  109. 

Kintai-kyo,  365. 

Kintoki-zan,  103. 

•Kinukasa-yama,  293. 

Kirifuri,  161. 

Kiri-ishi,  131. 

Kirishima;409,  73. 

Kirishitan-zaka,  78. 

Kiritsumi,  144. 

Kiryu,  151. 

Kisarazu,  178. 

Kishi  Bojin,  29. 

Kisogawa,  272-4. 

Kiso  Kaido,  272. 

Kitakami-gawa,  196,  211,  214. 

Kitano  Tenjin,  291. 

Kit  a  Shirakawa,  Prince,  80, 154. 

Kitaura  Lagoon,  177. 

Kita  Yoshimi-mura,  96. 

Kiyomizu-dera,  304. 

Kiyomori,  41. 

Kiyosumi,  181. 

Kizawa,  122. 

Kizugawa,  817,  330. 

Kizuki,  350.  . 

Kobe,  279 ;  269. 

Kobe-gawa,  351. 

Kobo  Daishi,  41,  et  pass. 

Kobori  Enshu,  306. 

Kobotoke-toge,  135. 

Kobukuji,  330. 

Kochi,  372. 

Kochi-no-yii,  127. 

Kodachi,  120, 

Kodaiji,  306. 

Koenami,  355. 

Kofu,  121. 

Koga,  64,  192. 

Koganei,  94. 

Kogota,  196. 

Kohoji,  97. 

Koishikawa,  78. 

Koishiwara,  394. 


Index, 


447 


KOJIGOKU 

Kojigoku  (Hakone)^  100. 

Kojigoku  (Shimabara),  386. 

Kojiki,  35, 143.  333,  351,  354. 

Kojiki  Den,  252. 

Kojima,423. 

Kdjimachi,  74. 

Kojima  Takanori,  42. 

Koken,  Empress,  353. 

Kokoromi-zaka,  314. 

Kokubunji,  93,  94. 

Kokura,  391. 

Kokuzo  Bosatsu,  251. 

Koma-ga-take  (Hakone),  102. 

Koma-ga-take  (Koshu),  136. 

Koma-ga-take  (Shinshu),  239;  231. 

Koma-ga-take  (Yezo),  419. 

Komagino,  95,  123. 

Ko-Manago,  163,  165. 

Konfktsu  (near  Fukui),  228. 

Komatsu  (near  Niigata),  186. 

Komei  Tenno,  299,  313. 

Kome-no-tsu,  407. 

Kome-no-ura,  228. 

Kominato  (Boshu),  180 ;  176. 

Kominato  (Oshu  Kaido),  201. 

Komitake,  116. 

Komoro,  219,  145. 

Kompira,  30. 

Kompira,  temple  of,  366. 

Kompira-san,  146. 

Kompira-yama,  381. 

Komuro-zan,  109. 

Konashi,  178. 

Konishi  Yukinaga,  38,  286. 

Komori,  345. 

Kondo,  343. 

Kongobuji,  340. 

Ko  no  Amida,  252.  • 

Kbnodai,  97. 

Konosu,  96. 

Konsei-togc,  169,  170. 

Koniima,  418. 

Koraku-en,  78. 

Korea,  411,  412. 

Korea,  conquests  of;  38, 40. 

Koretsubo,  131. 

Kori-dani,  149. 

Korin,  42. 

Koriyama  (near  Nara),  32§. 

Koriyama  (North  Ry.),  192;  187. 

Koromo-gawa,  197-8. 


KUBOGOMA 

Koropok-guru,  426. 

Kosame,  149. 

Kose,  144. 

Kose-no-Kanaoka,  42. 

Koshin,  30. 

Koshin-zan,  167. 

Koshoji,  301. 

Koshu  Kaido,  123,  136,  272. 

Kotalba,  126. 

Kotaki  mine,  167. 

Kotohira,  366. 

Kotajima-minato,  374. 

Kowaki-dani,  100. 

Koya-san,  340 ;  338. 

Koyasu,  61. 

Koyo-kwan,  73. 

Kozenji,  196. 

Kozori,  134,  135. 

Kozu,  62,  98,  259;  3. 

Kozu-no-miya,  285. 

Kozu-shima,  113, 

Kublai  Khan,  34,  55. 

Kucharo,  428. 

Kuchinotsu,  390. 

Kuchiono,  348. 

Kudan,  75. 

Kudo  Suketsune,  101. 

Kuenji,  128. 

Ku-jii-ku  Tani,  179. 

Kumagai,  140. 

Kumagai-do,  311. 

Kumagai  Naozane,  42,  311. 

Kumagawa,  rapids  of,  404,  411. 

Kumamoto,  401. 

Kumano  Jinja,  350. 

Kumanosawa,  235. 

Kumihama,  348. 

Kunashiri,  427. 

Kuno-zan,  260. 

Kuper,  Admiral,  407. 

Km-ama-yama,  313. 

Kuie,  363. 

Kurihashi,  192. 

Kuriko  Kaido,  193. 

Kiu^ile  Islands,  427. 

Kurino,  410. 

Kurobe,  238. 

Kurobera,  123. 

Kuroda  Nagamasa,  392. 

Kurodani,  310. 

Kurogoma,  138. 


1 


448 


Index, 


EUROHIME 

Kurohime,  223. 

Kurokami,  408. 

Kurokawa,  207. 

Euronota,  124. 

Kurosaki,  391. 

Kurosawajiri,  198,  203. 

Kuroshio,  l7l. 

Knruma-dani,  280. 

Kunime,  393. 

Kusakabe,  127. 

Eusatsu,  148. 

Knsatsu  Junction,  269 ;  254. 

Knshiro,  426. 

Kusiinoki  Masashige,  42. 

Eutani,  229. 

Eutsukake,  144,  271. 

Eutsuzawa,  135. 

Ewankoba  (Shiba),  68. 

Ewannon,  30. 

Ewannon,  Thirty-three  Places  of, 

•257. 
Ewannon-dake,  135. 
Kwannonji,  252. 
Ewannon-no-taki,  384. 
Ewannon-yama,  160. 
Ewannon-zaki,  275. 
Ewansei  Railway,  245,  254. 
Ewanzeonji,  393. 
Eyo-ga-shima,  132. 
Eyoraishi,  137. 
EyOrytlji,  139. 
Eyoto.  287 ;  4,  9,  67,  269. 
Eyushu,  377. 


Lake  Biwa,  317;  4. 

Lake  Biwa  Canal,  318;  309. 

Lakes,  near  Hakodate,  418. 

Language,  17. 

Layard,  R.  de  B.,  Tref. 

Library,  public.  82. 

Loochoo  Islands,  3;  408. 

Lowell,  Percival,  Pref.,  229;  432. 

Luck,  gods  of,  32. 

I^uggage,  10. 


Maebira  mine,  233. 
Macpherson's  Hill,  59. 
Maebara,  180. 


MsauRO 

Maebaru,  395. 

Maebashi,  140. 

Maeguchi,  149. 

Maeyama,  389. 

Maezawa,  197. 

Magome,  274. 

Maibara,  268. 

Maibara-Tsuruga  Railway,  227- 

Maiko,  281,  357. 

Maizuru,  346. 

Makishima,  386. 

Makonomai,  424. 

Makura  no  taki,  161. 

Mama  Eonodai,  97. 

Mama  no  Tekona,  97. 

Manazhru,  108. 

Mangwanji,  154. 

Mausolea,  68,  83,  155, 158. 

Mausoleum  of  Jimmu  Tenno,  332. 

Manyoshuj  97,  212. 

Maps,  Pref.y  2. 

Mariko,  93. 

Marine  Biological  Laboratory,  €0. 

Marishiten,  31. 

Marugame,  366. 

Maruno,  1 36. 

Maruyama  (Eyoto),  307. 

Maruyama  (Tokyo),  72. 

Masakado,  77. 

Masaki-gawa,  410. 

Masuyama,  424. 

Matsuda,  180. 

Matsu,  349. 

Matsuida,  142. 

Matsukawa,  192. 

Matsumae,  415,  420,  423. 

Matsumoto,  220,  235. 

Matsunoki,  234. 

Matsuo,  357. 

Matsushima  (Ina  Eaido),  240;  244. 

Matsushima  (near  Nagasaki),  362. 

Matsushima  (Sendai),  209, 210;  196. 

Matsushiro,  220. 

Matsuyama,  366. 

Matsuzaka,  252. 

Matsuzato,  122. 

Maya  Bunin,  31. 

Maya-san,  280. 

Me-Akan,.426,  428. 

Megane-bashi,  77. 

Meguro,  91. 


Index. 


440 


HBNDEZ  PINTO 

MUENZUKA 

Mendez  Pinto,  400. 

Mito,  Prince  of,  43,  78,  177. 

Mera,  181. 

Mito  Eflilway,  172. 

Mida,  see  Amid  a. 

Mitsubishi  Company,  384. 

Midono,  274. 

Mitsu-ga-hama,  366. 

Miharu,  363. 

Miwa,  333. 

Mihara  (volcano),  112. 

Miya,  244. 

Mi-harashi,  99. 

Miyagino,  99. 

Miharu,  188. 

Miyajima,  364. 

Miidera,  319. 

Miyako,  214. 

IVriike,  390,  393. 

Miyako  Odori,  288. 

Mikaburi-yama,  138. 

Miyamizu,  105. 

Mikado,  present,  322. 

Miya-no-ichi,  406. 

"  Mikado's  Empire,*'  2. 

Miyanokoshi,  273. 

Mi-kaeri  no  Aniida,  310. 

Miyanoshita,  97—99. 

Mikami-yama,  320. 

Miyazono,  393. 

Mikasa-yama,  330. 

Miyazu,  347. 

Mikkaichi,  344. 

Miyodo-gawa,  372. 

Mikomotq,  275. 

Mizaka.  352. 

Mikumo,  254. 

Mizusawa,  198. 

Mikuni-toge,  406. 

Mochii,  372. 

Mikuriya,  349. 

Mochiznki,  271. 

Miller,  Eev.  E.  E;,  Pref. 

Moganii-gawa,  207. 

Mimi-zuka,  301. 

Mogi,  382. 

Mimmaya,  209. 

Moheji,  422. 

Mimpei,  355. 

Moji,  366. 

Minamoto  family,  34. 

Mombetsu,  423. 

Minato  (in  Awaji),  356! 

Momiyama,  178. 

Minato  (Tenjin-yama),  179. 

Mongol  invasion,  34,  55. 

Minato-gawa,  282,  283  j  42. 

Monju,  31. 

Mine,  58. 

Monzeki  temi)les,  84,  90. 

Mine  no  Yakushi,  325. 

Moon  Temple,  280. 

Mino,  282. 

Mori^  426. 

Minobu,  128;43. 

Mori,  Viscount,  249. 

Mint,  284. 

Morioka,  198. 

Mio  Jinja,  350. 

Moritsnka,  59. 

Miomote  valley,  207,  431. 

Moroda,,  147. 

Mio  no  Matsubara,  260. 

Mororan,  42o. 

Misaka-toge,  137. 

Morozaki,  246. 

Misaki,  60,  112. 

Morse,  Prof.  E.S.,  2.  417. 

Misen,  338. 

Mortuary  temples,  68,  83. 

Mishima,,  110. 

Moto-Aikai,  205. 

Missions,  33,  365,411. 

Moto-Makone,  102, 105. 

Mississippi  JBay,  59. 

Motomiya,  184,  192. 

Misumi,  404. 

Motomura,  112. 

Mitrfii,  405. 

Motona,  180. 

Mitajiri,  365. 

Motonobu,  40. 

Mitake  (near  Kofu),  122. 

Motoori  Norinaga,  252. 

Mitake  (on  Nakasendo),  274. 

Motosu,  120. 

MitAke  (near  Ome),  126. 

Motoyama,  272. 

Mitford,  A.B.,  174,  282. 

Muda,  339. 

Mito,  173. 

Muenzuka,  88. 

450 


Index. 


MXJKADE-TAMA 

Mukade-yama,  320. 
Mukojima,  87. 
Murakami,  207,  4f31. 
Murasaki  Shikibu,  43,  322. 
Marayama,  117. 
Murdoch,  J.,  Pref, 
Muryo-in,  78. 
Museum  (Ueno),  81. 
Museum  of  Arms,  75. 
Mushi-yu,  146. 
Mutsuda,  339. 

•"My  Lord  Bag-O'-Rice,"  320. 
Myogi-san,  141. 
Myohoji,  93. 

Myojin-ga-take,  100, 104. 
Myojo-ga-take,  100,  104. 
Myoken-dake,  388. 
Myoken-zan,  347,  348. 
Myoko-zan,  224. 
Myoshinji,  294. 
Myoto-seki,  250. 
Mythology,  22,  350. 


Nabari,  246. 

Nabaeshima,  360. 

Nabeshima  family,  74. 

Nabeshima  Marquis,  396. 

Nachi,  261. 

Kae  no  taki,  224. 

Nagahama  (Fuji),  120. 

Nagahama  (Lake  Biwa),  322;  228. 

Nagahama  (Shikoku),  375. 

Nagakubo,  271 ;  220. 

Nagano,  221. 

Nagaoka  (near  Naoetsii),  226. 

Nagaoka  (Tokaido  Ry.),  268. 

Nagaoka  no  Tenjin,  314. 

Nagao  Pass,  107. 

Nagasaki,  379. 

Nagasawa,  138. 

Nagata-ch5,  74. 

Nagoya,  266. 

Naiku  temple,  251 ;  247. 

Naishi-dokoro,  332. 

Najima,  392. 

Naka-dori,  77. 

Nakagawa,  875. 

Nakalzumi,  241. 

Naka  Kaido,  274. 


NINNAJI 

Nakamura,  207,  432. 

Nakanojo,  147. 

Nakano-maAshi,  241. 

Nakanoshima,  284. 

Nakasendo,  270 ;  140. 

Nakatsu,  398. 

Nakatsu-gawa,  274. 

Nakatsu-mine,  374. 

Naka-umi  Lagoon,  349. 

Naki-bori,  77. 

Nambu,  202. 

Namegawa,  273. 

Nanae,  418. 

Nanao,  229. 

Nana-taki,  162, 163. 

Naniwa,  288. 

Nantai-zan,  163, 165, 166. 

Nanzenji,  310. 

Naoetsu,  225. 

Nara,  324,  326  ;  4. 

Narada,  132. 

Narai,  272. 

Narashino,  174. 

Nara  to  Ise,  245. 

Narita,  175. 

Naruto,  355. 

Naruto,  Whirlpool  of,  374. 

Nashimoto,  110. 

Nasu,  182,  192. 

Nasuno-yama,  184. 

Natsumi,  178. 

Natsushima,  58. 

Naimiann,  Dr.  E.,  141, 205, 207, 432. 

Naval  Academy,  90. 

Nawa-ike,  233. 

Nebane,  244. 

Neeshima,  Rev.  Joseph,  291. 

Nekoya,  261. 

Nemba,  120. 

Nemuro,  426. 

Nichiren,  43,  57,  92, 128, 130, 180. 

Niegawa,  272. 

Nihon-bashi,  77 ;  67. 

Nihongi,  33. 

Nihonmatsu,  192. 

Ni-gwatsu-do,  327. 

Niigata,  226. 

Niijima,  113. 

Niitsu,  226. 

Nijo,  Palace,  295 ;  287. 

Nikko,  162. 

Ninnaji,  294. 


Inde^, 


451 


NINOTAIBA 

Kinotaira,  100. 

Nintoku  Tenno,  287. 

Ni-o,  31. 

Nippara-gawa,  126. 

Nippon  Yusen  Kwaisha,  3,  203, 211, 

246,  276,  362,  411,  417,  423,  426. 
Kirasaki,  136. 
Nishino  Buntaro,  249. 
Nishi  Hongwanji  (Kyoto),  302. 
Nishi  Hongwanji  (Tokyo),  90. 
Ni'shi  no  Kyo,  381. 
Nishinomiya,  269. 
Nishi-no-umi  (Fuji),  120. 
Nishi-no-umi  (Ghtizenji),  165. 
Nishi  Otani,  304. 
Nitta  Yoshisada,  44,  57. 
Noboribetsu,  425. 
Nobechi,  201. 
Nobeoka,  405. 
Nobiru,  211,  197. 
Nobunaga,  44. 
Nodori-san,  133. 
Nogami,  139. 
Nogata,  391. 
Noguchi,  238. 
Noheji,  201. 
Nojima,  181. 
Nojiri  Lake,  223. 
Nojiri  (on  Nakasendo),  274. 
Nokendo,  58. 
Nokogiri-yama,  179. 
Nomugi  pass,  235  ;  234. 
Nonojuku,  203. 
Norikura,  235,  231. 
Normal  School  (Tokio),  77. 
Norokawa,  134, 136. 
North-East  Coast,  214. 
Northern  and  Southern  Courts,  37  ; 

35. 
Northern  Railway,  191. 
Noshiro,  208. 
Noto,  229. 
Notogawa,  269. 
Notsubara,  400. 
Nozawa,  187. 
Nozugawa,  110. 
Numa-ga-ike,  106. 
Numakunai,  200. 
Numao,  149. 
Numata,  171. 
Numasu,  259 ;  108. 
Kunobiki,  280. 


OKATAKA 


Nusbima,  354. 
Nyoh5-zan,  163. 
Nyoirinji,  387. 
Nyo-i-rin  Kwannon,  31. 
Nyorai,  31. 


0-Akan,  426,  428. 

Oarai,  173. 

Obaku-san,  317. 

Obama,  386. 

Obi  Ginzan,  235. 

Obu,  261. 

Ochiai,  127. 

Octagonal  shrine,  72. 

Oda,  396. 

Odaki,  193. 

Odate,  208. 

Odawara,  98,  104. 

Oenami,  355. 

Oe-yama,  345. 

Ofuji,  127. 

Of  una,  55,  61. 

Ofunatsu,  176, 177. 

Ofuruma,  222.     ' 

Ogaki,  268. 

Ogawa,  246. 

Ogawa  no  Yumoto,  170. 

Ogeyama,  374. 

Oginohama,  211,  212. 

Ogo,  151. 

Ogoya,  375. 

Oguni,  430. 

0-Gwannon,  78. 

Ohara,  171. 

Ohashi,  397. 

Ohiradai,  99. 

Oi,  274. 

Oigawa,  133,  264. 

Oishi  Kuranosuke,  73. 

Oiso,  62. 

Oita,  400. 

Oiwake  ^akasendo),  145,  271. 

Oiwake  (near  Kyoto),  318. 

Oji,  95. 

Oji  (Osaka-Nara  Ry.),  331. 

Ojigoku  (Miyanoshita),  100, 103. 

Ojigoku  (Tateyama),  232. 

Ojin  Tenno,  40. 

Okayama,  393. 


452 


Index. 


OKAZAKI                           , 

PEKRY 

Okazaki  (Tokaidd),  264. 

Onimia,  418. 

Okazaki  (Shikoku),  374. 

Orio,  391. 

Oki  Islands,  349,  350. 

Osaka,  283 ;  269. 

Oki-no-shima,  27G. 

Osaka  (hill),  318. 

Okitsu,  260. 

Osaka-Nara  Railway,  324. 

Okkai,  171. 

Osawa,  198. 

Okubo  (Shikoku),  373,  375. 

Oshamambe,  416. 

Okubo,  Azalea  Gardens,  95. 

Oshima  (Kishu),  275. 

Okubo  Hikozaemon,  263. 

Oshima  (Vries  Island),  111. 

Okubo  Toshimichi,  74. 

Oshima  (Yezo),  423. 

Okuni-nushi,  31. 

Oshio,  429. 

Okushiri,  423. 

Oshu  Kaido.  191,  200. 

Okute,  274. 

Oshuku,  199. 

Okyo,  44. 

Osore-zan,  201. 

dmachi,  238. 

Ota,  274. 

Omae-saki,  275. 

Ota  Dokwan,  67. 

Omagari,  204. 

Otama-ga-ike,  106. 

Omama,  151. 

Otani,  269,  318. 

0-Manago,  166 ;  164. 

Ota  Nobunaga,  shrine  of,  292. 

Ome,  125.                      • 

Otaru,  423. 

Ome  Hikage  Kaidd,  126. 

Otataneko,  333. 

Ome  Kaido,  125 ;  93. 

Otoko-yama,  314. 

Omi  Hakkei,  318. 

Otoku,  149. 

Omine,  338. 

Otome-toge,  103. 

Omiya  (in  Chichibu),  139. 

Otsu,  319 ;  269. 

Omiya  Junction,  140. 

Outline  tours,  48. 

Omiya  (Tokaido),  259  ;  121,  128. 

Owada,  174. 

Omiya  Hachiman,  94. 

Ovvaki-dani,  100. 

Omogawa,  127. 

Owami  springs,  182. 

Onahama,  188. 

Owari  Bay,  245,  275. 

Omono-gawa,  204. 

Oyama  (mountain),  61. 

Omori,  63. 

Oyama  (North  Ky.),  192;  150. 
Oyama  (Tokaido  Ry.),  259. 

Omura,  897 ;  390. 

Omuro  (on  Ho-d-zan),  134. 

Oya  shirazu  Ko  shirazu,  119. 

Omnro  Gosho,  294. 

Ozaka,  288. 

Omurb-zan,  109. 

Ozawa-tdge,  431-. 

Omuta,  393. 

Ozu,  375. 

Onamuji,  31,  849,  350. 

Ongagawa,  391. 

Oni-ga-j6,  345. 

P 

Oni-no-ike,  406, 

Ono,  422. 

Palace  (Hakone),  105. 

Onogawa,  235. 

Palace  (Kashiwabara),  832. 

Onoki,  246. 

Palaces  (Kyoto),  287,  289,  295,  309. 

Onogoro-jima,  354. 

Palace  (Tokyo),  75. 

Ouomichi,  363. 

Palmer,  Major-Gen.,  54. 

Ono-niimachi,  188. 

Paper  Money,  5. 

Ono  no  Takamura,  151,  253. 

Pappenberg,  380. 

Onsen,  386. 

Pariahs,  88. 

Onsen-ga-take,  388. 

Passports,  3. 

Ontake,  238 ;  231,  236. 

Peak  (Hakodate),  416,  417. 

Cnuki,  178. 

Perry,  Commodore,  60 ;  1, 35, 54,  111. 

Index, 


455 


PIB&  STATION 

Pier  Station,  228. 

Piratori,  425. 

Plains  of  Heaven,  58. 

Plymouth  Bocks,  276. 

Population,  47. 

Poronai,  424. 

Posts,  5. 

Potteries,  242. 

Pownall,  C.  A.  W.,  Pref, 

Provisions,  9. 

Purchases,  12. 

"  Purification  "  of  temples,  22. 


Kailways,  11. 
Baiko,  345. 
Kakan,  81. 
Basho-mon,  297,  345. 
Bausu-zan,  423. 
"  Regular  Routes,"  4. 
Reiheishi  Kaido,  140, 152. 
Rein,  Dr.  J.  J.,  Pref.  2,  317. 
Rendaiji,  111. 
Rin  Shihei,  210. 
Rinzaiji,  262. 
Rinzenji,  273. 
Roads,  11. 
Rock  Island,  275. 
Rokken,  245. 
Rokko-san,  282. 
Rokujuri-goe,  205,  432. 
Rokumei-kwan,  75. 
Rokuren,  861. 
Roshana  Butsu,  300.  . 
Russian  Cathedral,  75. 
Ryo  Daishi,  83. 
Ryogoku-bashi,  96. 
Ryomo  Railway,  150. 
Ryoseki,  373. 
Ryo-un-kaku,  87. 
Byugeji,  261. 
Ryuzai-toge,  336. 
Ryuzan-jita,  238. 
Ryuzu-ga-taki,  166. 


s 

Sado,  226. 

Saga,  896. 

Sagami  peninsula,  60. 

Saga  no  Shakado,  295. 

Saidaiji,  331. 


SABtJHASHI 

Saigawa,  220. 

Saigo,  44,  401,  407. 

Saijo,  366,  375. 

Saijoji,  104. 

Sai^o,  67,  287. 

Sail  Rock,  423. 

Sai-no-kawara,  149. 

Saitama,  140. 

Saiiki,  404. 

Sakai  (Matsue),  349. 

Sakai  (Mikuni),  228. 

Sakai  (near  Fuchu),  93,  94. 

Sakai  (near  Osaka),  280,  344. 

Sakamoto  (Lake  Biwa),  319,  323. 

Sakamoto  (Nakasendo),  271. 

Sakanashi,  401. 

Sakashita,  240. 

Sakata,  205. 

Sakawa-gawa,  100. 

Sakayori,  173. 

Sakon  no  sakura,  290. 

Sakunami,  202. 

Sakura,  174. 

Sakurai,  333. 

Sakurajima,  408. 

Sakura  Sogoro,  174. 

Sambe-yama,  351. 

Sambongi,  201. 

Sambon-matsu,  245. 

Sammai-bashi,  105. 

Sandanda,  395. 

Sanetomo,  47. 

Sangu  Tetsudo,  246. 

San-gwatsu-do,  327. 

San-indo,  347. 

Sanjo,  225. 

Sanjo,  Prince,  79. 

San-ju-rok-ka-sen,  80. 

San-ju-san-gen-do,  299. 

San-kei,  209,  347. 

Sanno,  31. 

San-no-he,  201. 

Sannomiya,  269,  279. 

San-no-sawa,  149. 

Sanno  temple,  74. 

Sano  (Temmyo),  150. 

Sano  (Tokaido  Bailway),  259, 107. 

Sanyo  Railway,  358. 

Sapporo,  424. 

Saratoga  Spit,  275. 

Sarufuto,  425. 

Saruhashi,  124. 


454 


Index. 


8ABUSAW1. 

Sarusawa  no  Ike,  330. 

Sarushima,  58. 

Saruta-yama,  383. 

Saru-tora-hebi,  316. 

Sasebo,  385. 

Sashide,  140. 

Satake  Yashiki,  87. 

Satomi  Awa-no-kami,  97. 

Satow,  Ernest,  Pref.,  25. 

Satsuma  Rebellion,  45,  401,  ct  pass. 

Sawai,  126. 

Sawara,  176. 

Sawatari,  147,  149. 

Sects,  25. 

Seido,  77. 

Seishikaga,  427. 

Seiryuji,  295. 

Seizu-Gwaisha,  Pref. 

Seki  (Kwansei  Ry.),  254,  245. 

8eki  (near  Yokohama),  58. 

Sekido,  93. 

Seki-ga-hara,  268. 

Sekigawa,  223. 

Sekimoto,  104. 

Sekiya,  182. 

Sekiya,  Professor,  185. 

Sekiyama  (near  Sendai),  202,  203. 

Sekiyama  (Naoetsu  Ry.)»  225. 

Semi-maro,  819. 

Seminary  (at  Kdya-san),  343. 

Semiyama,  374. 

Semmaya,  215. 

Sendai,  195 ;  9. 

Sendai-gawa,  410. 

Sendai  Hagi,  196. 

Sengen,  31. 

Sengen  temple,  262. 

Seugen-toge,  140. 

Sengen-yama,  99. 

Sengoku-hara,  103. 

Senjo-ga-hara,  166. 

SenjG-ga-take,  345. 

Senkoji,  354. 

Sen-no-Rikyii,  286. 

Sen-yuji,  299. 

Senzau,  353. 

Senzoku,  92. 

Senzu,  112. 

Sessho^gawara,  149. 

Sessho-seki  (Nasuno),  184. 

Sessho-seki  (Nikko),  163. 

Sesshu,  45. 


SUINJIKU 

Seta,  320. 

Seto,  242,  268. 

"  Seven  High  IMountains,"  268. 

Seven  Isles  of  Izu,  111. 

Shaka>ga-take,  338. 

Shaka  Muni,  31. 

Shakotan,  423. 

Shakuj6-ga-take,  254. 

Shana,  427. 

Shari,  428. 

Sharihotsu,  32. 

Shari-yama,  280. 

Shiba,  68. 

Shiba  Onko,  175. 

Shibetcha,  427. 

Shibetsu,  428. 

Shibu,  149. 

Shibukawa,  171. 

Shibuta,  344. 

Shibutami,  200. 

Shichi  Fukujin,  32. 

Shichimen-zan,  130. 

Shichi-no-he,  201. 

Shigeoka,  405. 

Shigi-sen,  324. 

Shi-gwatsu-do,  327. 

Shiken-jaya,  336.  • 

Shikine,  113. 

Shikoku,  371. 

Shima  (near  Ikao),  147. 

Shimabara,  389. 

Shimashima,  ^20,  235. 

Shimizu,  261. 

Shimmachi  (Kyushu),  405. 

Shimmachi  (near  Nagano),  287. 

Shinmiachi  (near  Takasaki),  140. 

Shinunei-mae,  68. 

Shimoda,  111. 

Shimodate,  172. 

Shimo-Gamo,  312. 

Shimohara,  236. 

Shimomura,  126. 

Shimonoseki,  366. 

Shimonoseki  Affair,  365. 

Shimonoseki  Straits,  361. 

Shimo-no-Suwa,  271. 

Shimosa,  171. 

Shinagawa,  63. 

Shinano-gawa,  221. 

Shinano-toge,  234. 

Shin-Fuji,  92. 

Shinjiku-Hachidji  Railway,  94. 


Index. 


455 


SHINJIKU   JUNCTION 

Shinjiku  Junction,  64. 

Shinjiko  Lagoon,  349. 

Shinjo  (in  Uzen),  203. 

Shinjo  (on  Hamana  Lagoon),  264. 

Shinka-den,  332. 

Khinnyo-do,  312. 

Shinobazu,  80. 

Shinobu  Mojizuri,  193. 

Shinobu-yama,  193. 

f5hinran  Shonin,  46,  74. 

i^hiuto  religion,  21. 

Shinto  revival  school,  248,  332. 

Shin-yu  (Hakone),  102. 

Shin-yu  (Tochinoki),  402. 

Shiobara,  182. 

Shiogama  (near  Sendai),  209 ;  196. 

Shiogama  (Shiobara),  182. 

Shiokawa,  429. 

»Shiojiri,  272. 

8hiokoshi,  206. 

Shio  Misaki,  276. 

Shionada,  271. 

Shio-no-ue,  131. 

Shionoyu,  182. 

Shipment  of  curios,  13. 

Shirahama,  181. 

Shiraishi,  194. 

8hiraka\va,  192. 

iShirakawa  valley,  233. 

Shirane-san  CKoshu),  133. 

Shirane-san  (Kusatsu),  150» 

Shirane-san  (Nikko),  170;  106. 

Shiraoi,  426. 

Shiribetsu,  423. 

Shiriuchi,  421. 

Shiroyama,  407. 

Shishido,  109. 

Shita  Kaido,  274. 

Shi-Tenno,  32. 

Shizuku-ishi,  199. 

Shizuoka,  262. 

Shodaiji,  331. 

Shodo  Shonin,  153  ;  IfiO. 

Shogun-zuka,  306. 

Shaji,  120. 

Shomu  Tenno,  329. 

Shunai,  206. 

Shokonsha,  75. 

Shooting,  14. 

Shotoku  Taishi,  46. 

Shoun,  88. 

Shozuka  no  Baba,  29. 


SUZUKAWA 

Shozushima,  366,  369. 

Shubun,  46. 

Shugaku-in,  314 ;  287. 

Shusui,  174. 

Shuten  Doji,  345. 

Shuzenji,  110. 

Simon  Condera,  392. 

Skeleton  tours,  48., 

Sobo-san,  404. 

Soga  Brothers,  101, 106. 

Soga  no  Iruka,  336. 

Soida,  394. 

Soma-yama,  146. 

Soneiji,  97. 

Sonobe,  344. 

Sonogi,  390. 

Sori,  169. 

Soscn,  46. 

Somen  no  taki,  160,  161. 

Soya,  428. 

Spex  Straits,  362. 

Sport,  14. 

Steam  communication,  2,  etpass. 

Steamer  voyages,  276,  359. 

Subashiri,  117 ;  116. 

Suburban  Railway,  64. 

Sugawara-no-Michizane,  32,  327. 

Sugita,  69. 

Suinin  Tenno,  tumulus  of,  326. 

Sujin  Tenno,  tumulus  of,  334, 

Sukagawa,  170. 

Sukumo-gawa,  106. 

Sukuna-Blkona,  32. 

Suma,  281. 

Sumaki,  183. 

Sumida-gawa,  89. 

Sumiyoshi  ^near  Kobe),  269,  282. . 

Sumiyoshi  (near  Osaka),  286. 


^Lgummer  resorts,  12. 
^^^Sum 


Sumoto,  364 ;  353. 
Sun-Goddess,  27,  22,  248. 
Suruga-dai,  76. 
Susaki  no  Benten,  89. 
Susa-no-o,  32,  351. 
Suwa  (near  Kusatsu),  149. 
Suwa  Lake,  272. 
Suvrara,  273. 
^uwa-yama  (Kobe),  280. 
Suyama,  118. 
Suzukawa,  269  ;  121, 128. 


456 


Index. 


TABATAMA 


T&bajftma,  127. 

Tabiishi-yama,  850. 

Tachibana-ura,  374. 

Tachikawa,  94, 125. 

Tadotsu,  366. 

Tagawa-yu,  207. 

Tago-no-ura,  260. 

Taguchi,  223. 

Taiko  Hideyoshl,  38. 

Taik5-yama,  102. 

Taisanji,  281. 

Talshaku,  32. 

Tai-no-ura,  181. 

Taira,  188. 

Tajikara-o,  248. 

Tajimi,  243. 

Takaboko,  380. 

Takachiho-dake,  409. 

Takada,  331. 

Takahara-gawa,  232. 

Takahara-yama,  183. 

Takahira,  171. 

Takama  no  hara,  177. 

Takamatsu,  367. 

Takami-toge,  339. 

Takamori,  404. 

Takao,  182. 

Takaoka  (near  Hacbioji),  229. 

Takaozan,  95. 

Takao-zan  (near  Kyoto),  294. 

Takara-dera,  314. 

Takara-zoka,  281. 

Takasaki,  140. 

%kasaki-Yokokawa  Bailway,  140. 

Takase,  393. 

Takashima,  384. 

Takata,  225. 

Takata  no  Gob5,  257. 

Takatori,  337. 

Takatori-yama,  281. 

Takayama,  233. 

Takeda,  400. 

Takeda  Shingen,  122. 

Takefu,  228. 

Take-mikazuchi,  177,  326. 

Takenouchi  no  Sukune,  46. 

Takeo,  391. 

Takeshita,  405. 

Takeioyo,  246. 


TEN  PROVINCE  PASS 

"  Tales  of  Old  Japan,"  174,  282. 

Tamagawa,  93. 

Tamagawa  valley,  125.- 

Tama-yori-hime,  813. 

Tamuke-yama,  327. 

Tamura  Maro,  210,  305 

Tanabe  Sakuro,  318. 

Tanegawa,  398. 

Tani,  General,  401. 

Tanjoji,  181. 

Tanno,  375. 

Tanoara,  365. 

Tan-yu,  40. 

Tanzawa,  100, 102, 104. 

Tariff,  3. 

Tar6bo,"116. 

Tarui,  268. 

Tateishi,  398. 

Tateno-mura,  402. 

Tateishi-zaki,  228. 

Tateoka,  203. 

Tateshina-yama,  138. 

Tateyama  (Boshu),  180. 

Tateyama  (Etchu),  231. 

Tatsuta,  326. 

Tatta,  326. 

Tawara  Toda  Hidesato,  320. 

Tawara-zaka,  394. 

Taya  no  Ana,  60. 

Tea-houses,  8. 

Telegraphs,  5. 

Temiya,  428. 

Temmangu,  32. 

Temmyo,  150. 

Tempai-zan,  393. 

Temple  architecture,  28,  26. 

Te-nazuchi,  351. 

Tendo,  202. 

Tenga-jaya,  286. 

Tenjin,  82. 

Tenjin-toge,  147^ 

Tenjin  temple  (Osaka),  284. 

Tenjin-yama,  179. 

Tenjin  Teuuo,  tumulus  of,  318. 

Tenkai  Daisojo,  159. 

Tennoji,  285. 

Tenno  no  Mori,  355. 

Tenno-zan,  314. 

Tenoko,  430. 

Tenryu-gawa,  240,  264. 

Tenryiiji,  295. 

Ten  Province  Pass,  106, 108. 


Index. 


457 


TERADOMASI 

Teradomari,  225. 

Terai,  228. 

Tesshuji,  261. 

Thirty-three  Places   of   Kwannon, 

253. 
Toba,  251. 
Toba  Sojo,  46. 
Tochigi,  150. 
Todaiji,  328 ;  82. 
Todohokke,  420. 
Tofukuji,  299. 
Togakushi-san,  222. 
Togo-ike,  349. 
Toji,  297. 
Toji-in,  293. 
Tokaido,  257  ;  105, 110. 
Tokei,  63,67. 
Tokimata,  240. 
Tokitsu,  383. 
Tokiwa,  41. 

Tokugawa  Shoguns,  39,  68. 
Tokudhima,  373. 
Tokusue,  395.  * 
Tokyo,  63,  67 ;  3,  8,  9. 
Tokyo  Fu,  68. 
Tokyo-Takasaki- Yokokawa  Railway, 

140. 
Tokyo- Yokohama  Railway,  62. 
Tomakomai,  425. 
Tomari,  348. 
Tombs  of  the  Shoguns,  68,  83, 155, 

158. 
Tomioka  (near  Yokohama),  59. 
Tomioka  (Shikoku),  374. 
Tomiyama,  210. 
Toncgawa,  192 ;  64. 
Tono,  215. 

Tonoki,  138.  > 

Tonokuchi,  184,  194. 
Touomine,  385.  * 

ToDosawa,  99. 
Tora  Gozen,  101.  • 

Torigawa,  320. 
Torii-toge  (Kusatsu),  150. 
Torii-toge  (Nakasendo),  272. 
Toro,  427. 
Tosu,  393,  396. 
Tosawa,  109. 
Toshima,  113. 
Toshogfi,  33,  72. 
Totomi,  265. 
Totsuka,  caves  of,  60. 


UEDA 

Tottori,  348. 

Toyama  (Etchu),  230,  281. 
Toyama  (Nikko),  161. 
Toyohashi,  265. 
Toyohira,  424. 
Toyokuni  no  Yashiro,  301. 
Toyokuno,  253. 
Toyooka,  348. 
Toyo-uke-bime,  33,  248. 
Toyono,  222 ;  149. 
Toyoura,  865. 
Travelling  expenses,  7. 
Treaty  limits,  3. 
Treaty  ports,  3. 
Tsu,  252 ;  246. 
Tsubarai,  136. 
Tsuboi,  S.,  96. 
Tsuboya,  408. 
Tsuchizaki,  203. 
Tsuda  Sanzo,  319. 
Tsugaru  Fuji,  208. 
Tsugaru  Straits,  415. 
Tsugaru-zaka,  209. 
Tsugawa,  186. 
Tsuge  (Kwansei  Ry.),  254. 
Tsuge  (Kyushu),  404,  411. 
Tsukigase,  330,  336. 
Tsukiji,  90 ;  67. 
Tsukuba,  172. 
Tsukue,  367. 
Tsumago,  274.  , 

Tsuna,  Watanabe  no,  345. 
Tsunagi,  429. 
Tsunomiya,  176. 
Tsuri-bashi,  128. 
Tsuruga,  228. 
Tsuru-ga-oka,  205,  431. 
Tsurugi-saki,  275. 
Tsurugi-yama,  375. 
Tsurumi-yama,  399. 
Tsurusaki,  406. 
Tsushima,  411,  412. 
Tsutaki,  137. 
Tsuyutare  Pass,  138, 139. 
Tumuli,  332 ;  326,  829,  334,  355,  et 
pass. 


Ubago,  102. 
Udo,  404. 
Udoma,  113. 
Ueda,  220. 


u 


458 


Index. 


UEKI 

Ueki,  394. 

Ueno,  79. 

Uenohara,  124. 

Uesugi  Konshin,  122,  194. 

Uesugi  Norizane,  151. 

Uji  (near  Kyoto),  315. 

Uji  (Yamada),  246. 

Uke-mochi  no  Kami,  33,  248. 

Ukon  no  tachlbana,  290. 

Uma-gaeshi  (Fuji),  116. 

Uma-gaeshi  (Nikko),  1C4. 

Umba-ga-take,  432. 

Umewaka,  87. 

Ume-yashiki,  89. 

Ijmidaira,'l07. 

Umijiri  (Hakone),  102. 

XJmijiri  (Iwasake  Gorge),  138. 

XJmi-no-kuchi,  139. 

University,  77. 

Unna,  24i. 

Uno,  339. 

Unzen,  380. 

Uomi,  109. 

Uotsu,  230. 

Uraga,  60. 

Uraga  Channel,  275. 

Urakami,  383. 

Urami,  162. 

Urashima,  346 ;  273. 

Urawa,  140. 

XJreshino,  390. 

Usa-no-Hachiman,  398. 

Usu,  423,  425. 

Usui,  174. 

Usui  Pass,  140,  142. 

Utsubusa,  128. 

Utsunomiya,  192. 

Uwajima,  375. 

Uzumasa,  294. 

Uzura,  422. 

Uzu-toge,  430. 

\r 

Venus  Hill,  382. 
Vladivostock,  412. 
Volcano  Bay,  425. 
Vriea  Island,  111. 

w 

Wada  (Ito),  109,  111. 
Wada  (Nakasendo),.  271. 
Wada  (near  Tateyauia),  180. 


TAMASHINA 

Wada-no-ha,  212. 
Wada-toge,  271. 
Wakamatsu,  187. 
Waka-no-ura,  344. 
Wakasa-no-I,  328. 
Wakasare-no-Chaya,  144. 
Wakayama,  344. 
Wakimachi,  373. 
Wakura,  229. 
Wakuya,  196. 
Walter,  James,  60. 
Wami-toge,  144. 
Washi-ga-su,  207. 
Washizu,  265. 
Watarase-gawa,  168. 
Weights  and  measures,  5. 
West  coast,  227 ;  3,  9. 
Weston,  Rev.  Walter,  Pref. 
Whitney,  Dr.  W.  N.,  Pref.,  6. 
Will  Adams,  59,  283,  286. 


Xavier,  St.  Francis,  33,  36,  400. 


Yabake  Valley,  393. 

Yabuhara,  273. 

Yachigashira,  417. 

Ya-daijin,  24. 

Yaegaki  Jinja,  351. 

Yagami,  389. 

Yainai-cho,  335. 

Yakeyama  (Yezo),  419. 

Yakeyama  peninsula,  201. 

Yakushi-dake,  135. 

Yakushi-ji,  331. 

Yakushi  Nyorai,  33. 

Yamada  (Ise),  246 ;  244. 

Yamada  (N.E.  coast),  215. 

Yamada-toge,  150. 

Yamae,  394. 

Yamagata,  202,  205. 

Yamagata  (near  Bandai-san),  184, 

194. 
Yamaguchi,  365. 
Yamakita,  259. 
Yamanojo,  410. 
Yamaoka  Tetsutaro,  261. 
Yamashina,  318. 


Index. 


459 


TAMASHIBO 

Yamashiro,  228. 
Yamato,  through,  331. 
Yamato-meguri,  334. 
Yamato-take,  46,  143. 
Yamura,  124. 
Yanagizawa-mura,  199. 
Yao,  324. 

Yari-ga-take,  236;  231. 
Yasaka,  32. 
Yasaka  Pagoda,  305. 
Yashiro  (Naoetsu  Ry.),  220. 
Yashiro  (Kyushu),  409. 
Yasuhira,  47. 
Yasukuni  temple,  74. 
Yata  no  JizO,  311. 
Yatsu-ga-take,  139. 
Yatsushiro,  404. 
Yawata  (Shikoku),  373. 
Yawata  (near  Tokyo),  174. 
Yebisu,  see  Ebisu. 
Yedo,  89,  63,  67. 
Yezo,  413 ;  12,  15. 
Yodogawa,  284,  316. 
Yoichi,  423. 
Yoio  no  Mori,  252. 
Yoita,  226. 
Yoka-ichiba,  131. 
Yokkaichi,  246 ;  244. 
Yokogawa,  410. 
Yokohama,  53 ;  3. 
Yokokawa,  142. 
Yokose,  375. 
Yokosuka,  69. 
Yokote,  204. 
Yokoya,  148. 
Yonago,  349. 
Yonezawa,  194,  429,  430. 
Yorii,  139. 

Yoritomo,  46,  47,  55,  158. 
Yoshida,  (near  Fuji),  117,  124. 
Yoshida  (Kyushu),  410. 
Yoshida  no  Yasluro,  312. 
Yoshiie,  198. 
Yoshijima  Jinja,  337. 
Yoshino,  cape,  421. 
Yoshino  (Koshil  Kaido),  124. 
Yoshino  (in  Yamato),  336. 
Yoshino-gawa,  336. 


ZUSHI 

Yoshioka,  421. 

Yoshitsune,  47. 

Yoshiwara,  87. 

Yudono-san,  205,  432. 

Yuensan,  412. 

Yubutsu,  425. 

Yufu,  399. 

Yu-ga-shima,  110,  111. 

Yugyo-dera,  258. 

Yujima  (Hayakawa  valley),  132. 

Yukiai-gawa,  57. 

Yume  no  Uki-hashi,  299. 

Yumoto,  (Hakone),  98. 

Yumoto  (Ikao),  146. 

Yumoto  (Nikko),  166. 

Yumoto  (near  Tateyama),  238. 

Yumura,  348. 

Yu-no-hana-zawa,  101. 

Yunokawa,  418. 

Yunosawa  (Hakodate),  418. 

Yunosawa  (Karuizawa),  144. 

Yu-no-taki,  166. 

Yunotan,  402. 

Yunotani,  373. 

Yura  (in  Awaji),  354 ;  276,  352. 

Yura  (on  Sea  of  Japan),  346. 

Yuragawa,  346. 

Yurappu,  415. 

Yushima,  348. 

Yushu-kwan,  75. 

Yutenji,  92. 


Zaragoe,  238. 
Zaru-ga-dake,  132. 
Zempukuji,  74. 
Zeni-kake-matsu,  253. 
Zenki  and  Goki,  338. 
Zenkoji,  221. 
Zenshoji,  281. 
Zeze,  320. 
Zdjoji,  71. 
Zo-o-do,  337. 
Zoological  Gardens,  83. 
Zuijin,  24. 
Zushi,  see  Dzuslii. 


ERRATA  AND  ADDENDA, 


P.  63. — Under  Steam  CiynMnunicaiion,  note  that  Samuel,  Samuel  & 
Co.  are  now  the  Agents  for  the  '  Shire '  line  of  steamers,  and  Dodwell, 
Carlill  &  Co.  for  the  '  Castle '  line,  instead  of  Adamson,  Bell  A  Co. 

P.  54. — Under  Newspapers,  add  'The  Japan  Daily  AdverHaer'  and 
'  The  Box  of  Curios.' 

P.  63. — Under  Hotels,  note  that  the  Imperial  Hotel  is  now  also 
styled  the  TeUcoku  Hotel. 

P.  73,  1.  3  from  bottom  of  left  col.  Note  that  the  wooden  Kiri- 
shima-yama  is  being  demolished. 

P.  99, 1.  18.    For  hiji-mono,  read  hiji-^mono, 

P.  186, 1.  2.    For  1873,  read  2783. 

P.  194. — Under  Bandai-aan,  note  that  the  first  night  should  be  spent 
at  Hibara,  and  the  excursion  over  Bandai  be  made  on  the  next  day. 

P.  288, 1.  3  from  bottom  of  left  col.    After  Katmrw^nc'Rikyu,  add 

Nishi  Hongwanji  and  Higashi  Hongwanji. 


ADVERTISEMENTS. 


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mmi  lem, 


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aid  20.  Moliaia. 

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Large  Dising  Room  will  seat  300  Guests. 


TJBLE  TOES,  BORDEAUX,  BOURCOTIE  Am  CMMPAGHE. 

The  BEADING  and  BILLIARD  ROOMS  are  oi  Lottj  and  Spacioua 
dimensions  and  afford  a  pleasant  retreat  for  guests  during  their'  stay. 

No  espenae  has  been  spaced,  and  particular  care  has  been  taken  by 
tlie  Company  in  the  construction  of  the  New  Building  to  adopt  the  latest 
SAHITAET  IMPROVEMENTS.  The  BATHS,  ESPECIALLY,  are 
unanrpassed. 

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A  STEAM  LAUNCH,  under  European  superrision,  attends  all  out- 
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gers' luggage  through  the  Customs  and  conveyauce  to  the  Hotel,  without 
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We  the  Tindersiffned  guides  of  Yokohama  and  Kol^e,  have  Ijanded  ourselves  toge- 
ther to  form  an  association  called  "KAIYUSHA,"  We  have  been  prompted  to  this 
by  the  constant  increase  of  travellers  through  Japan  and  the  difficulty  which  has 
often  been  experienced  in  securing  competent  and  trustworthy  guides. 

'    We  now  hope  at  all  times  to  be  able  to  supply  demand  and  also  obviate  difficulties 
which  in  the  past  have  marred  the  pleasure  of  tourists. 

The  company  holds  itself  responsible  for  the  character  and  ability  of  all  ^ide* 
supplied  and  respectfully  solicits  the  patronage  of  tourists. 

In  order  to  avoid  delay  and  inconvenience  we  request  tourists  to  apply  for  the 
services  of  a  guide  tweuty-fouf  hours  before  they  wish  to  start  co.  a  long  excursion, 
and  two  or  three  hours  before  a  short  trip. 

Guides  can  meet  travellers  at  any  place,  if  requested  to  do  so  by  letter  or  telegram. 
If  any  particular  guide  is  desired  and  mentioned  in  the  application  he  will  respond,  if 
not  otherwise  engaged. 

TERMS:'  One  dollar  per  day  for  a  party  of  one  or  two  toimsts:  over  two, 
twenty-fiye  cents  added  for  each  tourist. 

In  all  cases  the  guide's  travelling  expenses  must  be  paid  by  employer  and  he  is  to- 
be  allowed  one  dollar  per  day  additional  for  his  hotel  expenses. 


NAMES  OF  LICENSED  GDIDES : 


GRAND  HOTEL  AND  CLUB  HOTEL, 

YOKOHAMA. 

T.  Ito. 

S.  Suzuki. 

K.  Matsuda. 

S.  Ohashi. 

F.  Takagaki. 

Tetsuzo  Yoshida. 

W.  MuTO. 

K.  T.  FuKUVAMA,  (or  Tora.) 

Nakajima  Katsu. 

Tajima  Kobe. 

Y.  F.  Shimidzu. 

HiRATA  MaTSU. 

B.  Kaito. 

OSHIMA  MiTSU. 

Kato  Fuji. 
S.  Hattori. 

HiRATA  OtO. 


T.  HoRi  (or  Hakodate). 

Assistants. 

S.  Okumura. 
K.  Hashimoto. 


HI060  HOTEL,  ORIENTAL  HOTEL  AND 
HOTEL  DES  COLONIES, 

KOBE. 
T.  KiMOTO. 

K.  Yajima. 

K.  ISAKI. 

S.  Ito. 

K.  Yamamoto. 
H.  Yamato. 
Y.  Yamaguchi. 

Assistants. 
G.  Ogawa. 
T.  Nakamura. 


NO.  71,  MOTOMACHI, 

Ichome, 


KAIYUSHA  OFFICES 


NO.  211,  MOTOMACHI, 

Ichome, 


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rounding scenery. 

The  Booms  being  well  ventilated,  commodious,  and  furnished  with 

<every  requisite,  afford  most  desirable  accommodation.    The  £1lectbio 

Light  has  recently  been  placed  in  all  the  Buildings. 

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THE  TOKYO  BRANCH 

Is  beautifully  situated  on  the  sea-board  and  the  premises  have  been 
lately  redecorated  and  elegantly  furnished.  The  Electric  Light  is  laid 
on  in  all  the  rooms.  The  grounds  are  well  and  artistically  planned  and 
the  Hotel  is  within  ten  minutes  ride  from  the  Shimbashi   Station. 

It  Tokobama  tbe  Steam  Launch  attends  all  Anrivals  &  Departures. 


Advertisements. 


J^mji\m  §  $%»<t0liai  |p»tt^ttt0  €<ri^|rmtlirt{. 


PAID-UP  CAPITAL      $9,296,677.07 

xb£S£AV£  f^uT^D • «     $6,806,596.31 

KESERVE  LIABILITY  OF  PROPRIETORS $9,296,677.07 


Xlead  Offices    IIOIVOKLO^O. 

Chief  Manager     F.  De  BOVXS,  Esq. 


Manager    . . . 


THOMAS  JACKSON,  Esq. 


Bankers-LOXBON  &  COUNTY  BANKING  COMPANY,  Limited. 


IS  II  A.  IV  O  II  A.  I  • 


Manager  ... 

•••         •••         •••         •••        % 

r.  P.  WADE  GAE 

DNER,  Esq. 

BRATVOIIE©    ANI>    AOENOIES. 

London, 

Bombay, 

Manila, 

Amoy, 

Lyons,         ' 

Calcutta, 

Iloilo, 

Tientsin, 

Hambubo, 

Singapore, 

FOOCHOW, 

HlOGO, 

New  York, 

Saioon, 

Bangkok, 

Batavia, 

San  Francisco, 

Shanghai, 

Hankow, 

Penang. 

YOltOHAMA     BHANCII. 

Interest  allowed  on  Current  Accounts  at  2  %  on  Daily  Balances  oV^r  9500. 
On  Fixed  Deposits,  for  12  months      At  5  % 


»t 


99 


Fixed  Deposits, 
Fixed  Deposits, 


6 


» 


>» 


•••     ...     ... 


•••  •••  ••! 


99 


99 


4  % 

30/ 
/o 


LOCAL    BILLS    DISCOUNTED. 

Credits  granted  on  approved  Securities,  and  every  descripti<$n  of 
Banking  and  Exchange  business  transacted. 

Drafts  n*anted  on  London  and  the  Chief  Commercial  places  in 
Europe,  In£a,  Australia,  America,  China,  and  Japan,  Circular  Notea 
issued  for  the  use  of  Travellers. 

K.  M.  BEVIS,  Manager* 


Adcertisements, 


THE 


-o/^P'nc:;;?^ 


•r, 


■^v" 


CORPORATION,  LIMITED. 


Authorized  Capital 
Paid  Up  Capital  •■• 


£2,000,000 

£   600,000 


•  •  •  •  c 


(Incorporated  tinder  the  Companies  Acts  1882  to  1883.) 

MGISTERED  OFFICE,  40,  THREADHEEDLE  STREET,  LOHDOB,  E.C. 

WEST  END  OFFICE,  25,  COCKSPUR  STREET,  LONDON,  W. 


iiriA.]voiiii:sj 


Aden, 

Edinburgh, 

Maubitius, 

YOKOHAICA, 

Bombay, 

Hongkong, 

Melbourne, 

Zanzibar. 

Calcutta, 

HiOGO  (Kobe), 

Shanghai, 

Ceylon, 

Madras, 

Singapore, 

Dundee, 

Make, 

Sydney, 

BANK  OF  ENGLAND; 

THE  UNION  BANK  OF  LONDON,  Limited; 

THE  BANK  OF  SCOTLAND  (Edinburgh,  London,  and  Branches.) 

Chief  Matiager      R.  T.  ROHDE,  Esq. 

8uh  Mmiager JOHN  PATERSON,  Esq. 

Credits  granted.  Remittances,  Exchange,  Loahs,  and  every  descrip- 
tion of  Banking  business  transacted. 


YOKOHAMA    BRANCH. 


Interest  Allowed; 

On  Current  Accounts, 
On  Daily  Balance  .. 


2  7c 


On  Fixed  Deposit  for  12  months  5  7 

6      „        47 
3      „        3  7, 


if 


f* 


»» 


*» 


D.  FBASEB,  Manager. 


Advertisements. 


Head  Office:  HAHON  COURT,  THREADNEEDLE  STREET^LONDOM . 


INCORPORATED    BY    ROYAL    CHARTER. 


PAID-UP  CAPITAL,  in  40,000  Shares  of  ^20  each... 
EESERVE  LIABILITY  OF  SHAREHOLDERS  ... 
RESERVE  FUND 


I  •  •  •  •  • 


..  ^800,000. 
..  ^800,000.' 
..  ^300,000- 


Pari$. 
Messieui*8  Offboy  &  Co. 
Holland. 
/"Messrs.  Hope  &  Co. 
AmBter-j  Messrs.  Webthibim:  &  Gompebtz. 
dam         )  Bank  of  Amstsbdam. 

vNetheblakd  Tbading  Socibtt. 
Rotterdam — Bank  of  Rottebdam. 

Germany. 
Berlin  and  Frankfort — Deutsche  Bank. 
5remc?i— Messrs.  Widow  J.  Lang's  8on&Co. 

hura  \  ^^ssrs.  J.  Bebenbebo  Gossleb  &  Co. 


United  State*  and  Canada, 

Toronto  Jf  [-Canadian  Bank  op  Comubbcb. 
Montreal  ) 

I  Anglo  Calipobnian  Bank,  L*d, 
Bank  op  Califobnia. 
Bank  op  Bbitish  Columbia. 
London  &  San  Fbancisco  Bank,L*i>. 

Chicago— 'Fivjar  National  Bank  op  Chicago. 

Philadelphia — Tbad£Smsks.NationalBahx. 


BOMBAY. 
CALCUTTA. 
AKYAB. 
BANGOON. 


Agencies  and  Branches. 
PBNANG.  BATAVIA. 


THAIPING. 
SINGAPORE. 
KWALA  LUMPOR. 


SOURABAYA. 

MANILA. 

HONGKONG. 


FOOCHOW. 
SHANGHAI. 
HANKOW. 
YOKOHAMA. 


Kobe  (Hiogo) 

Nagasaki     - 

Colombo 

Madras 

Saigon 

Ainoy 

Zanzibar     - 


-  Messrs.  Browne  &  Co. 

-  Messrs.  Holme>  Ringer  &  Co. 

-  Messrs.  Alstons  Scott  &  Co. 
'  Bank  of  Madras. 

-  Messrs.  Speldel  &  Co. 

-  Messrs.  Tait  &  Co. 

-  Messrs.  JIansing  &,  Co. 


The  Bank  has  Agents  also  in  all  the  principal  towns  in  Australia, 
New  Zealand  and  Netherlands  India.  Drafts  granted  on  all  the  above 
Agencies  and  Branches,  Travellers'  Letters  of  Credit  issued.  Bills  of 
Exchange  purchased  and  received  for  collection,  and  every  description 
of  Banking  business  transacted. 

J.  R.  PARSONS, 

Yokohama,  1891.  Agent,  Yokohama, 


8  Advertisements. 


A.  FARSARI  &  Co., 

No.  i6,  BUND. 

BETWEEN  THE  GRUD  HOTEL,  L'i,  UDDEAKDI  BROS.  &  Co.,  L'd. 


Portraits — Groups— Houses. 

Beproductions— Bnlargements. 

Inatantataneous  Photographs. 

Transparencies— Xjantem  Slides. 

Portraits  in  Coistomes. 

We  have  suitable  dresses  for  Ladies  and  Gentlemen,  and  furniture; 
jinrikislia,  etc.,  for  taking  portraits  and  groups  in  Japanese  costume. 
"No  extra  charge  is  made  for  these. 


THE  BEST  PHOTOSRAPHS  OF  VIEWS  AND  COSTUMES  OF  JAPAN. 

We  are  the  only  photographic  artists  in  Japan  who  have  been  accorded 
permission  to  take  views  of  the  Imperial  Gardens  (Fitkiage)  in  Tokio. 

In  consequence  we  are  in  possession  of  the  most  beautiful  and 
complete  set  of  negatives  of  views  of  places  generally  visited  by  tourists 
and  residents. 

As  we  are  sure  that,  when  our  photographs  have  been  compared 
with  others,  one  wiU  not  purchase  elsewhere,  we  respectfully  request 
that  every  studio  in  Yokohama  be  visited  by  intending  purchasers  before 
making  a  selection. 

The  colors  were  carefully  noted  at  the  time  that  photos  of  temples 
and  other  structures  were  taken,  and  we  are  the  only  ones  who  paint 
them  as  they  really  are. 

We  also  call  particular  attention  to  the  fact,  that  we  are  the  only 
photographers  that  deliver  pictures  equally  ^s  well  painted  as  those 
exhibited  in  our  sample  albums  or  frames. 

Photographic  printing  hy  permanent  processes  done  only  by  us. 


NOTICE  TO  AMATEUR  PHOTOGRAPHERS. 

We  have  a  dark  room  free  of  charge  at  the  disposal  of  amateur 
photographers. 

Developing  negatives  taken  by  amateurs  on  plates  or  film,  and 
printing  promptly  done  at  moderate  prices. 

We  guarantee  the  permanency  of  all  our  photographs,  which  are 
made  of  the  best  imported  materials. 


Advertisements, 


NIPPON 


ttsen 


mnhu. 


CAPITAL 


$11,000,000. 


PRESIDENT 

M.  MORIOKA, 

Esq. 

VICE-PRESIDENT 

T.  YOSHIKAWA, 

Esq. 

DIRECTOR     

K.  XJCHIDA, 

Esq. 

»f 

M.  ASADA, 

Esq. 

»»             

R.   KONDO, 

Esq. 

ft             • . .     • •  • 

M.  KATO, 

Esq. 

M                                • 

A.  MACMILLAN 

Esq.  (absent.) 

BRANCH  OFnCES  AT  THE  PRINCIPAL  PORTS  IN  JAPAN  AND  AT  SHANGHAI, 

FUSAN,.6ENSAN  AND  JINSEN,  AND  AGENCIES  AT  HONGKONG, 

CHEFOO,  TIENTSIN  AND  WLADIWOSTOGK. 


HEAD  OFFICE 


TOKYO. 


The  Japan  Mail  Steamship  Company  possesses  a  fleet  of  First 
Class  large  and  full  powered  steamships,  fitted  with  the  latest  improve- 
ments for  the  comfoyt  and  convenience  of  passengers.  Steamships 
carrying  the  Imperial  Japanese  Mail  leave  Yokohama  and  Shanghai, 
via  Kobe,  the  Inland  Sea  and  Nagasaki  once  a  week;  and  between 
Nagasaki,  Corean  Ports,  Chefoo,  Tientsin  and  Wladiwostock  according 
to  time-tables.  The  home  service  comprises  almost  daily  communication 
between  the  chief  ports  of  the  Empire,  for  aU  of  which  foreign  travellers 
may  procure  passports  without  difficulty  or  expense. 

For  information  in  regard  to  freight,  passage,  sailings,  &c.,  apply 
at  any  of  the  Branches  or  Agencies,  or  at  the  Head  Office  in  Tokyo, 
where  full  particulars  on  aU  points  may  be  had. 


10  Advertisements. 


Canadian  Pacific  Railway  SteamsMps. 


CHINA  AND  JAPAN   LINE. 


YOKOHAMA  TO  VANCOUVER,  B.C.,  IN  10  DAYS. 


The  Royal  Mails  between  HONGKONG,    SHANGHAI, 

YOKOHAMA  and  VANCOUVJER,  B.C.,  are  carried 

by  the  Company's  Steamships 

'*  EMPRESS  OF  INDIA  " 6,000  Tons,  10,000  Horse  Power. 

"  EMPRESS  OP  JAPAN  "    ...6,000      „     10,000 
"EMPRESS  OF  CHINA*'   ...6,000     „     10,000 


These  Steamers  have  been  specially  built  to  carry  out  the 
Mail  Contract  with  the  Imperial  Government.  They  are  Twin 
Screw  Vessels  of  great  speed,  and  the  arrangements  for  Passengers 
are  most  complete  and  luxurious. 

■ 

For  farther  information^  apply  to : 

FRAZAR  &  Co.  at  Yokohama,   Kobe  and  Nagasaki,   Agents 
in  Japan. 

DODWELL,   CARLILL    &  Co.,    Shanghai    and    Hongkong, 
Agents  in  China. 

Any    Office    of  the    CANADIAN    PACIFIC    RAILWAY    in 
Canada,  United  States,  or  Europe  : 

And  to  Messrs.  THOS.  COOK  &  SONS,  TOURIST  AGENTS, 
with  Offices  in  all  Parts  of  the  World. 

GEO.  B.  DODWELL, 

Genei'ol  Agent,  China  and  Japan, 
Hongkong,  April,  1891. 


r 


Advertisenunts,  11 


YoMama  Printing  and  MlisMng  Co., 

LIMITED. 


PRINTING  OF   EVERY   DESCRIPTION 

EXECUTED    AT    SHORTEST     NOTICE. 

The  advantage  that  this  Coinpany  has  over  any  other 
^Printing  OflB.ce  in  Japan  for  expedition  is  that  it  possesses 
a  first  class  PRINTING  MACHINE,  by 


DRIVEN    BY 


A  PRIESTMAN'S  OIL  STEAM  ENGINE. 


'•>o<*- 


SHIRT    MANUFACTURER. 

LISEH  AHD  WOOLEN  PAHERS  OF  THE  LATEST  STYLE. 

FiMBBi  €QMBm  €rm^0  MkMM, 

SUITABLE  FOR  SUMMER  WEAR. 


JJO  J^    BENTEN-DORl^NICHOME.  Ijg  J^ 


TOKIO, 


JAPAN. 


TSIS  m  HOTEL 


Is  situated  within  five  minutes'  tlrivo  ot  the  termiDus  of  the  Yokohama- 
Tokio  railway,  and  is  in  nsar  prosjmity  to  the  Imperial  Palace,  the 
Parliament  House,  and  the  chief  Public  Offices.  It  is,  in  fact,  in  the 
heart  of  the  best  quarter  of  Tokio,  and  centrally  situated  with  respect  to 
the  chief  objects  and  places  of  interest  in  the  City  and  its  Suburbs. 

■  It  is  arranged  and  furnished  to  aSord  visitors  every  convenience  and 
comfort,  under  experienced  management.  In  the  design  and  construc- 
tiou  of  the  buildiug.  special  attention  ha.s  keen  given  to  protection 
against  earthquake  shocks,  according  to  the  best  modem  scientific  practice. 
The  need  of  a  really  first-class  Hotel,  adapted  to  foraign  tastes  and 
requirements,  has  long  been  felt  by  visitors  to  Japan's  Capital.  The 
Imperial  Hotel  is  designed  to  satisfy  that  need  in  the  fullest  degree.  It 
is  unrivalied  for  its  comfort,  as  well  as  for  its  excellent  cuisino  and  wines, 
at  moderate  cliarges. 

Carriages  and  Jinrikishas  are  kept  on  the  Hotel  premises,  for  the  use 
of  guesta,  at  a  fixed  tariff.  There  is  also  a  sCafi  of  guaranteed  and 
akillad  guides. 


AdvertiMmenU,  13 


Airy.        Quiet.        COMFORTABLE.        eottuenieot. 

TOKYO  HOTEL, 

Hibijamon-ucM,  Tokyo,  Japan. 

^^^OCATED  near  Foreign  Legations  and    Offices,    and 


V 


Close    to    the    Chief    Points     of   Interest,    and    the 
Principal  Places  of  Business. 

CHARGES  MODERATE.       "^ 

MWMAMATBW  M&TEL,  ' 

IKAO,  JOSHU. 


^  HE  Proprietor  begs  to  inform  the  Foreign  Public  that  his 
k^  Hotel  now  contains  Thirty-five  Booms,  well  Furnished  in 
a  most  Comfortable  and  Handsome  manner,  and  suitable  to  the 
requirements  of  Foreign  Visitors. 

Separate  Bath  Rooms  are  also  constructed.  Fresh  and  Pure 
Provisions  are  daily  supplied,  imported  direct  from  Tokio  and 
Yokohama ;  Wines,  Spirits,  and  Beer,  of  superior  quality  are 
kept  always  on  hand. 

The  Hotel  has  made  arrangements  with  undermentioned 
Banks,  so  that  they  may  make  payments  in  the  receipt  notes 
issued  by  those  Banks. 

The  Tanaka  Bank  of  Sakamoto-<5ho,  Nihonbashi-ku,  Tokio, 
and  the  Tanaka  Branch  Bank,  Nichome  Benten-dori,  Yokohama. 

Billiard  Room,  nicely  fitted  np.  |  Cbarges  Exceedingly  Moderate. 


HOTEL, 
UPPER  NIKKO, 

Taking  10  mlDates  b;  Ilnrlklslia  Inim  tlie  M  Lacquered  Bridge. 


LARGE  AND  COMFORTABLE  HOTEL, 

Just  completed,  is  delightfully  situated  near  the  famous  Temples 

of  leyasu  and  lemitsu,  and  is  but  a  short  distance  above  the 

red  lacquered  bridge  crossing  the  Daiya  river  on  the  road  to 

Irimaclii. 

TME  B&BMM  ABE  MAM&M, 

well -ventilated  and  constructed  in  European  style,  are  furnished 

with  Stoves  during  the  Winter  months,  and  can  be  engaged 

either  by  post  and  telegram. 

MEALS  ARE  SERVED  IN  EUROPEAN  STYLE. 


Advertisement. 


%. 


VICTORIA  GAP,  PEAK, 

Adjoining  the   Tramway  Terminus. 


^HE  MOST  BEAUTIFUL  POSITION  IN  THE  ENVIRONS 

tv.  of  Hongkong,  situated  1,250  feet  above  Sea  Level,  com- 
manding Magnificent  Views  of  the  City  and  Harbour  of  Victoria, 
the  mainland  of  China,  and  neighbouring  Islands. 

Cool  Southerly  breezes  in  Summer,  with  perfect  protection 
from  N.E.  winds  in  Winier. 

THE  BEST  ACCOMMODATION  FOR  VISITORS, 

With  every  Comfort,  Convenience,  and  AtUntion. 

THE  CTJISIIDTE] 

Is  undisr  the  licst  aupcrvision,  and  every  luxury  oblainahle  is  supplied. 

WIISES,  ETC., 

OF  TEE  BEST  BRAKBS  MB  FISEST  {tAUTIES  OEY,  ABE  KEPT. 
TEEMS  MODEEATE. 

PEU  lOm  IBD  TRJIBWC  COIPiBT,  I'D.,  Proprietors. 


16  Advertisements. 


ORIENTAL  HOTEL, 

FIRST-CLASS  HOTEL. 

CUISINE  AND  CELLAR. 

Steal  Lanncli  leets  all  Incoming  &  Ontgoing  Steamers. 

L.  BEGEUX  -     -     -  (Proprietor  and  Manager. 


Tj&k&Kj&uebea  hotel, 

JAPAN. 


THIS  FIRST-CLASS  HOTEL 

Occupies  a  healthy  situation  on  the  hill  side,  and  lies  amid  some  of  the 
most  charminj^  scenery  to  be  found  in  Japan,  while  the  air  is  universaJ- 
ly  recommended  by  the  Medical  faculty  for  its  bracing  nature.  In 
<jonn(!ction  with  the  Hotel  are  some  famous  HOT  IRON  BATHS  much 
sought  after  for  their  health-giving  qualities. 

WITH 

WINES,  BEERS,  AND  SPIRITS,  OF  THE  BEST  QUALITIES, 

CAN  BE  OBTAINED  AT  REASONABLE  TERMS. 

TAKARADZUKA  is  one  and  a  half  hour  by  Rail  and  JinriJdsha 
fiom  Kobe,  and  no  passports  are  required. 

For  terms  apply  to 

A.  EUQ'HES,  llanageress. 


1 

AdvertUements, 

17 

LOO' 

^^M:ii 

o. 

DEALER  IN  ALL  KINDS  OP 

Of- 

zJ^{?Uemm 

^anm 

Waie^ 

FINE  THIN  KIOTO  PORCELAIN  TEA  SETS, 

landPaintedPaper Lanterns  &  Lacquer  Fans.  (Harked  Fixed  Prices.) 


JVo.  1^,  Gion-machi,  Kioto,  Japan. 

E.  H.  POWERS  &  Co., 


A^^  GA  SAKI. 


i^(ssm  p  COUNTEY  PARTIES  WILL  FIND  IT  TO  THEIR 

ADVANTAGE    TO   CALL  ON  US  AS  WE  HAVE 

r  ALL    EEQUISITES     FOR    OUTINGS,     VIZ.  :— 

PmwmmMB  # 

Cigars,  Cigarettes,  Tobacco,  Wines,  Beer,  Reading  Hatter,  ftc,  &c.,  ■ 
J  gents  for  MESSRS.  KELLY  &  WALSH,  LO. 

ALL  FfiOVISIONS  NOT  USES   CAIT    BE   BETUBITES. 


18 


AdvertuemmU, 


NozawatA 


m 


19 


No.  80,  Bentendobi  Nichome,  Yokohama. 

o 


? 


Iff 

m 


A  Large  Stock  of  SILKS,  CRAPES,  BROCADES, 

EMBROIDERIES,  Japanese  Costumes,  Specially 

made  to  fit  Foreigners, 

SASHES,  RAINBOW  CRAPES, 

A  Beautiful  Fabric,  and  Handkerchie&,  in  the  Latest 
Deagns,  Always  on  Hand. 

Orders  executed  with  care  and  promptitude,   at 

Moderate  Prices. 

Wholesale  and  Retail- 

NOZAWAYA'S  RAINBOW  CRAPES. 


a 


MARK 


rp  HE  best  qualities  of  this  beautiful  material  can  only  be  obtained  of  NOZAWAYA, 
-*-  by  whom  a  First  Class  Medal  was  obtained  at  the  Domestic  Industrial  Exhibi- 
tion last  year.  For  delicacy  of  tint  and  texture  these  Rainbow  Crapes  are  unrivalled.^ 
and  have  been  much  admired  and  extensively  purchased  by  several  foreign  ladies  of 
distinction,  including  H.R.H.  the  DUCHESS  of  CONNAUGH^T. 

IS-  CAUTION, 

NOZAWAYA  begs  to  inform  the  Ladies  of  Yokohama  and  Tokyo  and  Visitors  to 
Japan,  that  it  has  recently  come  to  his  knowledge  that  IMITATIONS  of  his 
CxLXBBATXD  Raiitbow  C&apks  are  in  the  market,  and  that  they  liave  been  palmed  off 
upon  the  public  as  the  genuine  article.  Nozawaya  therefore  invites  all  who  desire  the 
real  Rainbow  Crapes  to  pay  his  Store  a  visit,  where  only  the  genuine  material  is  to  be 
found,  all  being  counterfeit  that  are  not  sold  with  the 

TRADC'^MARK. 


Advertuemenft. 


LacquBr  p^olographg, 

IH7ENTB!D  B7  MR.  H.  HIZUHO, 


SCENERY 
COSTUMES 

COLOURED,. 


PHOTOGRAPHS. 

TaJain  at  Low 


FliKUSUISHA,  Ko.  !3,  Sakalclio,  Ictome,  Tokobana. 

KOBE  PHARMACY  AND  DISPENSARY, 

WWff 


No-  3,  DIVISION  STREET,  KOBE 

CHEMISTS  ANDPHARMACOPOLISTS. 

QUALIFIED  AND  REGISTERED  CHEMISTS  ONLY. 


FerTiiDies,  Toilet  Articles,  Patent  Hedicines,  Pocket  Filters  k  Sondries. 


£ng1iebje  French  'Savt\»,  Boohs  an  ilapan/Sliittaiicrij  &  Guide  Booha. 


igents  for  Kell;  k  Valsb,  LI,  I  igents  for  tbe  Official  lailvajf  <t 
Booksellers,  Sc.  |       Traiellers'  Guile,  Ic. 


ao 


AdverUteitunti. 


5 

to 


0 


^ 


&e 


m 


§=» 


s 

^ 


1 


§ 


^ 

^ 
^ 


^ 


^ 


g 

5 


Advertisenients. 


21 


THE 


§^ronicfe  anh  pirecfortj 


FOR 


PIHES.  IHDO-CHIMA.  STRAITS  SEmEHEKTS.  SIAM.  BORMEO, 


1891— 29th  Annual  Issue.— Royal  8yo.  pp.  1,100, 

Price  £1.5.0. 


;^  IVES  Historical,  Descriptive  and  Statistical  Accounts 

^^     and    Directories    of    Sixty    Different  Ports    and 

Places  in  the  Far  East,   and  12  Maps  and    Plans. 

Published  at  the  "  Hongkong  Daily  Pbess  '*  Office. 

To  be  had  through  any  Bookseller. 


c/a 


M&A  WMTA  MBTBEt 


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ADMITTED  to  be  the  Sanitarium  of  South 
China,  the  best  and  healthiest  spot  in  the 
Bishop's  Bay,  Macao ;  A  comfortable  Home  for 
families  and  gentlemen  desiring  to  enjoy  the  benefit  of 
quietness  and  of  a  change  of  air  in  summer  or  winter. 

Hot,  Cold,  Shower  and  Sea  Baths. 

WELL  FURNISHED  AIRY  BEDROOMS,  COMMODIOUS  AND  WELL 
VENTIUTED  DINING,  BILLIARD  AND  READING  ROOMS ; 

WELL-STOGKED  BAR. 

A.  SMALL  DAIRY  ATTACHED  TO  THE  PREMISES. 

•S"  For  Photos,  of  Hotel,  see  Eivor  Steamer  Saloons  and 

Hotels  in  the  Far  East. 


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22  Advertisements. 


LACQUER,  BRONZES,  CROCKERY, 

AND 

Also  Yarions  otber  Mections  of  Cnrios,  Botb  New  and  Oil 
Shinmonzen,  Mumemoto-cho  .  .  .  Kioto,  Japan. 


Visitors  are  Invited  to  Inspect  our  Stock  of  Inlaid  Iron,  Chid 
Lacqxterings,   Cloisonnes,  Metal  Works,  Satsuma  Paintings  and  Decorations. 


&  tJt  .M.  ■%#   1l    & 


39,  Higashi-im  Miyoshi-cho,  Yamato-oji,  Ichome,  Furumonzen,  Kyoto. 


LACQUERS,   «itJ|)[|iJi^^|  CROCKERIES, 


...AND... 


§i/A  Mmbroidme^, 


(3& 

•  •  .OF. .  • 


A  FXKS  GO)C<li£€7IOH  OF  OURIOS. 


^^    INSPECTION  IS  COBDTATiIjY  INVTTBD. 


Advertisements.  28 


Z.  P.  MARUYA  &  CO, 

PUBLISHERS,  STATIONERS, 

Imerican,  EnropeaD,  and  Oriental  Book-sellers,  and 

Library  Agents. 

ToiEzio,    a"-A.:p.A.isr. 


FUBLISEESS  OF 

HEPBURN'S  Japanese-English  and  English-Japanese  Dictionary: 

Unabridged  Edition.    Demy  8vo.,-half  Morocco Y.  7.60 

Abridged  Edition.    12m.  cloth 2.00, 

WHITNEY'S  CONCISE  DICTIONARY  of  the  Principal 
Eoads,  Chief  Towns  and  Villages  of  Japan,  with  Popula- 
tions, Post  Offices,  etc.    Crown  8vo.  cloth     1.50 

Ditto  with  appendix    ... 2.50 

INDEX  OF  CHINESE  CHARACTERS  in  Hepburn's  Die 
tionary  arranged  to  their  radicals  by  W.  N.  Whitney,  M.D. 

^^  \7XXA  V     \j  V  v/  ■  •••  •••  •••  •••  •••  •••  ••■  •••  •••  •••  •••  ^Ja  §  %^ 

IMBRIE'S   HAND-BOOK   of    EngHsh-Japanese  Etymology. 

Crown  8vo.  cloth 1.50 

NEW  MAP  OF  TOKIO,  with  a  Guide 0.50 

EASTLAKE'S  Easy  Conversation  in  English,   German,  and 

«i  apanese ...     ...     ...  O.oO 

NEMOTO'S  New  and  Practical  Vocabulary  and  CONVERSA- 
TIONS 'in  the  English,  French,  German  and  Japanese 
liANlxUAGES      0.25 

ARRIVET'S  Le<jons  de  Conversation  Japonais-Fran9ais 0.20 

„  Dictionnaire  Fran9ai8-Japonais     0.70 


24 


Advertisements, 


THE 


A.  W.  THOMPSON, 

No.  18,     AKASHI-CHO,    Mo.  18, 


Tsukiji 


•  Tokyo. 


No.  7,  Honcho,  next  door  to -the  Town  Hall,  ToMama. 


!> 


PMograpWc  Views  &  Costumes  of  Japan. 


ALMWM 


Lacquered  Board  or  Clotb,  Cover  Ready  for  Sale. 


Advertisenwits.  2$ 


0kpsM 


No.  9,  Gnsoko-cbo,  KyobasU-kn,  Tokyo. 


(L^^me 


EGS  to  announce  to  the  Foreign  Public  that  for  over  300 
^^  years  the  pawn-broking  business  was  carried  on  at  the 
above  store  and  that,  owing  to  the  large  quantities  of  goods 
deposited  in  his  premises,  he  opened  the  above  as  a  fine  art 
store  three  years  ago.  The  following  are  for  disposal  from  his 
extensive  stock,  at  reasonable  rates  : — 

WARLIKE  IMPLEMEHT8,  OLD  COPPER, 
60LB  JiH0  SIX<?£E  ORHAHEHT8, 

Cloisonne,  Famous  Swords,  Ivories, 

CHOICEST  JAPANESE  AND  CHINESE 

poi<c&Iaiii^,  pcpeen^,  J^ntiqne  pci<oII^, 

8fcc.,  8tc.,  otc. 

Inspection  by  Foreign  Connoisseurs  RespectfoOy  iniitel 


^6  .AdtertiUements, 


PATRONIZED  BY 


H.  R.  H.  THE  DUKE  OF  CONNAUGHT. 

North  &  Rae,  L'd., 


ENGLISH  AND  f'OREIGN 


CHEMISTS, 


(ESTABJilSHED  1863.) 


American,  Englisb  and  Continental  Prescriptions  Dispensed 
according  to  tbelr  RespectlTe  PharmacopcBlas 

Atkinson's,  Lxindborg's  and  Finaud's  Ferfiimes.    Farina's 

Qenuine  Eau  do  Cologne. 

«       ■       • 

Tolldt  Bsc[ui§IUs  of  Et@i7  Sescrlptlos. 

All  American  &  European  Patent  Medicines  &  Proprietary- 
Articles  of  Bepute  kept  in  Stock. 


Tourists  supplied  with  all  lands  of  Medical  Eeqnisites  for 

up-  Country '  Trips. 

MANAGER  -  -    R.  W.  BORTHWICE. 


Advertisements. 


KYOTO  HOTEL, 

siio  K&w&jst&m&cmi, 

KYOTO. 

U.  UATEDA Froprietoc. 


THIS    HOTEL, 

Situated  in  the  centre  of  Kyato,  commands  a  splendid  view 
of  all  the  Mountains  surrounding  the  City.  It  is  built  on  a 
spacious  plot  of  ground  where  was  formerly  the  Office  of  Com- 
merce and  Agriculture.     The  locahty  is  well-known  as  one  of  the 

moBt  convenient  parts  of  the  City.  The  establishment  is  divided 
into  two  parts, — one  fine  new  foreign  building  luxuriously  fur- 
nished with  every  European  requisite,  and  the  other  in  elegent 
e  Style.  ' 


Ttie  Rooms  are  weU-ventilated. 

WM0  Bmr  muMBiMimM  M&@m^ 

ASE  FITTED  UP  IK  A  SVPEBIOR  HANNEB. 

THE  CUISINE  IS  CONTROLLED 

BY  AN  EXPERIENCED  COOK,  AND  MEALS  ARE 
SERVED  AT  ALL  HOURS. 


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