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- v'^r'^dt "^
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BAEDEKER'S
EUROPEAN GUIDE BOOKS
Latest Editions always on hand and mailed to any address on rece
of price. Illustrated with numerous Maps, Plans, Panoramas,
and Views. 12mo, Cloth. ALL PRICED NET.
ALPS (EASTERN), ikoluding the Bavarian Highlatots, Titrol, Salzbui
etc., with 84 Maps, 9 Plans, and 7 Panoramas, .... $2
BELGTJIM AND HOLLAND, with IS Maps and 20 Plans, . . . $1
EGYPT (LOWER), WITH THE Fayum and thb Peninsula of Sinai, wj
16 Maps, 80 Plans, 7 Views, and 76 Vignettes, .... $4.
EGYPT (UPPER), WITH Nubia as par as the Second Cataract and tj
Western Oases, with li Maps and 26 Plans, .... $3
FRANCE (NORTHERN), from BBLGum and the English Channel
the Loire, excluding Paris and its Environs, with 9 Maps and
Plans, $2.
PRANCE (SOUTHERN), from the Loire to the Spanish and Italic
Frontiers, including CORSICA, with 14 Maps and 19 Plans, . $2.
GERMANY (NORTHERN), with 35 Maps and 54 Plans, . . . $2.
GERMANY (SOUTHERN) AND AUSTRIA, including Hungary, Halmati
AND BosiNA, with 16 Maps and 31 Plans, $2.
GERMANY (RHINE) FROM ROTTERDAM to CONSTANCE, with 39 Ma
and 21 Plans, $2.
GREAT BRITAIN, with 15 Maps and 30 Plans and a Panorama, . $3.i
GREECE, with 6 Maps, 14 Plans, and a Panorama of Athens, . . $3 (
ITALY (NORTHERN) including LEGHORN, FLORENCE. RAVENNi
AND Routes through Switzerland and Austria, with 16 Maps and j
Plans, $2.^
ITALY (CENTRAL) AND ROME, with 10 Maps, 31 Plans, a Panorama <
Rome, and a View of the Foram Romanum $l.f
ITALY (SOUTHERN), SICILY, with Excursions to the Lipari Island
Tunis, Sardinia, Malta, and Corfu, with '25 Maps and 16 Plans, %i.i
LONDON AND ITS ENVIRONS, with 3 Maps and 15 Plans, . . $1.£
NORWAY, SWEDEN AND DENMARK, with 26 Maps, 15 Plans, and 2 Sma
Panoramas, $3.(
PALESTINE AND SYRIA, with 18 Maps, 43 Plana, 1 Panorama of Jerasalen
and 10 Views, S6.(
PARIS AND ENVIRONS, with Routes from London to Paris, with "
Maps and 31 Plans %'H ^
SWITZERLAND AND THE ADJACENT PORTIONS OF ITALY, SAVOY, AND j
Tyrol, with 39 Maps, 11 Plans, and 12 Panoramas, . . . f
TRAVELLER'S MANUAL OF CONVERSATION, IN English, Ger'
French, and Italian, with Vocabulary, etc., . . . . j
CONVERSATION DICTIONARY, IN FOUR Languages, English, Fb
GERiiAN, Italian ,
OHAELES SOKIBNEE'S SONS, 743-745 Broadway, Ne^ /k
Sole Agents for the United States, 4
■ y
r~~\
fff.
BS
- J
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Advertisetnents,
ARTHUR & BOND'S
FfME AMT &AMMEMWf
No. 12, Water Street & Bund, Yokohama.
Is ONE OF THE SIGHTS OF YOKOHAMA, AND OWING TO
the Liberal Lines on which it is conducted, has in its Collection
some of the mpst superb pieces of both Ancient and Modebn Art
Workmanship in the country, embracing
Sold Lacqaer, Chased, Hammered, and Inlaid Hetal Work, iTory Garyinp,
Embroideries, Cloisonne, Porcelains, Kakemono, Ac, Ac.
Douglas Sladen says in his Tourist's guide to Yokohama and
Tokio : — " For all sorts and conditions of buyers I consider the
Fine Art Gallery
THE MODEL CUEIO SHOP."
T. in N. C. Daily News says: — "The Fine Art Gallery is certainly
WELL WORTH A VISIT and I, for one, imtil I had seen it, had no con-
ception of the exquisite work the Japanese can produce."
The Hongkong Telegraph says: — "NO ONE should go to Yokohama
without visiting the Fine Art Gallery."
Visitors to Japan are cordially invited to inspect our collection, and
will find all articles marked in Plain Figures at Moderate Prices.
TATTOOING.
HoriChiyo. — The celebrated tattooer, patronised by T. R. H. Princes
Albert Victor and George, and known, all over the world for his fine and
artistic work, is retain^ by us ; and designs and samples can be seen at
the Tattooing Booms.
ARTHUE & BOND'S
No. 12, Water Street & Bund, Tokohama.
\
A
V
HANDBOOK FOR TRAVELLERS
m
JAPAN
8i:i)irb (Sbition
RBYISBD AND FOB THE MOST PART BE-WBITTEN
BY
BASIL HALL CHAMBERLAIN
XMEBITUS FROFE8SOB OF JAPANB8B AND FHILOLOOT IN THB IMPERIAL
UNIYBBSITT OF JAPAN
AND
W. B. MASON
LATE OF THB IMPERIAL JAPANESE DEPARTMENT OF COMMUNICATIONS
WITH FIFTEEN MAPS
r^ut •
NEW YORK
CHARLES SCRIBNER'S SONS
LONDON JOHN MURRAY
-,.♦*.
YOKOHAMA
SHANGHAI
HONGKONG
SINGAPORE
.KELLY/ WALSH, LIMITED
1893
[ ALL RIGHTS RBSERYED ]
Ti. Preface,
Foss, T. B. Glover Esq., J. K. Goodrich Esq., Lafcadio
Heam Esq., Dr. J. L. Janson, Professor J. Milne, F.R.S.,
Bunyiu Nanjio Esq., Arthur Norman Esq., H. V. S. Peeke
Esq., F. Plate Esq., J. B. Rentiers Esq., F. Ringer Esq., W.
J. S. Shand Esq., Rev. G. T. Smith, Professor T.' Wada,
Captain R. N. Walker, Dr. H. Weipert, and several other
gentlemen. They would furthermore acknoivledge their in-
debtedness to the works of Dr. J. J. Rein, Rev. W. E. Griffis,
Dr. W. N. Whitney, and Dr. E. J. Eitel, as also to the columns
of the *■ Japan Mail.*
i
Any corrections or suggestions will be gratefully received.
Tokyo, July, 1891.
CONTENTS.
INTRODUCTION.
Page.
1. General ; Books on Japan ;
Maps 1
2. Steam Communication ... 2
3. Cnstom-House 3
4. Treaty Limits ; Passports.. 3
5. Guides 4
6. Posts ; Telegraplis ; Banks 5
7. Currency, 5
8. Weights and .Measures ... 5
9. Inns ; Travelling Expenses 7
10. Climate; Dress; Time of
Visit 8
11. Provisions 9
12. Means o£ Locomotion ;
Luggage 10
13. Places best worth Visiting 12
14. Purchases ; Objects of Art. 12
Pack.
15. Shipment of Curios 13
16. Shooilfcig 14
17. Fishing 14
18. Miscel£bneous Hints 15
19. Language 17
20. The Shinto Religion 21
21. Japanese Buddhism 24
22. List of Go4s and God-
desses 27
23. Christian Mission Stations 33
24. Outline of Japanese His-
tory 34
25. Celebrated Personages 36
26. Population of the Chief
Cities 47
27. Outline Tours 48
EOUTES.
Section I. — Eastern Japan.
BouTV. Page.
1. Yokohama 53
2. Excursions from Yoko-
hama* 55
3. Yokohamato Tokyo by Rail 62
4. Tokyo ,_. 63
5. Excursions from Tokyo ... 91
6. The Hakone District : Mi-
yanoshita, Hakone 97
7. 'Hie Peninsula of Izu 108
8. Vries Island Ill
9. Fuji and Neighbourhood... 114
10. Ways to and from Kofu ... 121
11. Kumagai to Omiya in Chi-
chibu 139
12. The Tokyo-Takasaki-Yoko-
kawa Railway. [Maebashi.]
Isobe, Myogi-san 140
13. Karuizawa and Asama-
yama 142
14. Ikao, Kusatsu, and Neigh-
bourhood 146
Route. Paos.
15. The Ryomo Railway 150
16. Nikko and Neighbourhood. 152
17. Prom Nikko to Tokyo or
Ikao ind Ashio and the
Valley of the Watarase-
gawa. Chuzenji to Ashio... 167
18. Prom Nikko to Ikao over
the Konsei-toge ' 169
19. Trips in the Provinces of
Hitachi, Shimosa, Kazusa,
and Boshu 171
20. The Shiobera District 182
21. Bandai-san 184
22. From Niigata to Waka-
matsu (Aizu), and to Moto-
miya on the Northern
Railway 186
23. From Koriyama through
the Province of Iwaki to
TairaandMito 187
vm.
Contents.
Section II. — Nobthern Japan.
Bouts. . Page.
24. The Northern Eailway and
theOshuKaido 191
25. From Sendai to Yamagata
and Yonezawa 202
26. From TSkyo to Akita on
the North- West Coast ... 203
27. From Sendai to Tsnruga-
oka, Sakata, Honjo, and
Akita 204
Route.
28. From Niigata to Tsuru-ga-
oka
29. From Akita to Aomori. . . .
30. Matsushima and Kinkwa^
zan
31. The North-East Coast
Section III. — Central Japan.
32.
83.
84.
The Karuizawa - Naoetsu
Bailway and Niigata. The .
Island of Sado
The West Coast from Tsn-
ruga to Naoetsu
The Mountains of Etchu
and Hida
Section IV. — Koutes
85.
The Bapids of the Tenryu-
gawa. The Ina Kaido ...
From Nagoya through the
Potteries to Nebane
37. The Shinto Temples of Ise
36.
219
227
230
Connecting Tokyo and Kyoto.
38.
39.
41.
42.
43.
AA,
45.
46.
TheTokaido 257
TheNakasendo : 270
Section V. — Western Japan and the Inland Sea.
40. By Steamer from Yoko-
hama to Kobe
K5be and Neighbourhood.. 279
Osaka and Neighbourhood. 283
Kyoto 287
Lake Biwa 317
Nara and Neighbourhood.. 324
Through Yamatb to the
Monastery of Koya-san in
Kishu 331
47. From Kyoto through Tam-
ba to the Se^. of Japan.
Ama-no-Hashidate
48. TheSan-indo
49. The Island of Awaji
50. The Inland Sea and the
Chief Towns
its Shores ....
on or near
Section VI. — The Island of Shikoku.
61. From Matsuyama jbo Kochi
over the Mountains of lyo
andTosa 371
Section VII.— The
54. Nagasaki and Neighbour-
hood 379
55. Excursions from Nagasaki. 384
56. Through North - "V^stern
Kyushu by Eoad and Rail. 391
57. From Kokura to Oita by
the North-East Coast and
to Kumamoto 897
58. From Kumamoto to Nobe-
oka and Oita 404
52. From Kochi to Tokushima
down the Eapids of the
Yoshino-gawa
63. Outline of other Trips in
Shikoku
Island of Kyushu.
59. Nagasaki to Kagoshima ...
60. Kagoshima to Kirishima-
yama and via the Bapids
of the Kumagawa to Ku-
mamoto
61. From Nagasaki to the Go-
t5 Islands and Tsushima ;
to Fusan and Gensan in
Korea; and to Vladivo-
stock in Siberia
Contents.
IX.
Section VIII. — The Island of Yezo.
Bouts. Page.
62. Ha«kodate and Neighbour-
hood 415
63. Excursions from Hakodate 418
64. Hakodate to Fukuyama ... 420
65. Hakodate to Esashi 422
Route. Page.
66. Hakodate to Sapporo and
VolcanoBay 42a
67. The South-East Coast and
the Southern Kuriles 426
68. From Kushiro to Abashiri.
The North-East Coast 427
APPENDIX.
I. From Inawashiro to Yone-
zawa viA Bandai - san
and the Hibara Pass ... 429
n. From Yonezawa to Mura-
kami ind Miomote 430
m. From Murakami to Tsuru-
ga-oka tnd the Agari-toge. 431
GLOSSARY
INDEX
IV. From Tsuru-ga-oka to
Sendai Tnd the Bokuju-
ri-goe and the Seki-
yama-toge 432:
V. Note on Yudono-san 482
433
438
EBBATA 460
«f
MAPS AND PLANS.
*•« ••• ••• •«• ••• ••• •••
Japan
8hintd Temple of Izomo
Buddhist Temple of Ikegami
Neighbourhood of Yokohama
Tokyo and Neighbourhood ...
Fuji and the Hakone District
Ikao and Kusatsu
NikkO
Eastern Japan
Northern Japan
Central Japan...
Kdbo and Osaka
Kydto
Western Japan and the Inland
jvy ubuvi ... ... ... ... ...
Neighbourhood of Nagasaki
South-Western Yezo
!•• ••• •«•
• •• ••• •••
• •• ••• ••■
• • • ■ • •
*•• ••• •mi
••• ••• ••• •••
• • ••• •«•
) • • • ■ •
• • ••• ••• •(• ••• ••• ••!
• • ••• ••• •••
• • ■•• •••
• • • • • •
• • ••• ■•• ••• •••
Sea
• • • • • 4
••• ••■ ••!
• •« •«• ••• ••• ••«
PAGE.
to face
Title-page.
f>
23
»>
26
a»
53
a
63
99
97
>»
145
»»
152
»
188
99
216
99
254
>•
279
99
287
**
368
»
377
99
379
*•
413
A
Handbook for Travellers
IN
JAPAN .
INTRODUCTION.
Page.
1. General; Books on Japan;
Maps 1
2. Steam Communication ... 2
3. Custom House 3
4. Treaty Limits; Passports 3
5. Guides 4
6. Posts ; Telegraphs;
Banks 6
7. Currency 5
8. Weights and Measures ... 5
9. Inns ; TraveUing Ex-
penses 7
10. Climate; Dress; Time of
Visit 8
11. Provisions j 9
12. Means of Locomotion;
Luggage : 10
13. Pla^s best worth Visit-
ing 12
Pagk.
14. Purchases; Objects of
Art 12
15. Shipment of Curios ... ..... 13
16. Shooting 14
17. Fishing 14
18. Miscel£.neous Hints 15
19. Language 17
20. The Shinto Eeligion 21
21. Japanese Buddhism 24
22. List of Gods and God-
desses .f 27
23. Christian Mission Sta-
tions .^....... 33
24. Outline of Japanese His-
tory 34
25. Celebrated Personages ... 36
26. Population of the Chief
Cities 47
27. OutUne Tours 48
1. — ^General ; Books on Japan ; Maps.
Japan, secluded for over two centuries from contact with the outer
world, was burst open by tlie American expedition in 1853-4 under the
command of Commodore Perry. Making a virtue of necessity, her
rulers soon determined to Europeanise the country as the best means of
preserving its independence. Ships were bought, foreign naval and
military instructors engaged, feudalism replaced by a centralised auto-
cracy, education re-organised on the pattern offered by Western
nations, posts, telegraphs, and railways introduced, European dress,
European manners, European amusements adopted. Buddhism dis-
established, Christianity — if not encouraged — at least no longer perse*
ented. In short, in every sphere of activity the old order gave way to
2 Introduction: — Steam Communication.
tbe new. Bat even Japan, great as is the power of imitation and
assimilation possessed by lier people, has not been able completely to
transform her whole material, mental, and social being within the limits
of a single lifetime. Fortunately for the tourist, she continues in a
state of transition — less Japanese and more European day by day, it
is true, but still retaining characteristics of her own, especially in the
dress, manners, and beliefs of the lower classes of society. Those who
wish to see as much as possible of the old order of things, should come
quickly.
It is impossible within the limits of this Introduction to enter into
those details of race, history, customs, religion, art, literature, etc.,
which, together with the more recent influence of Europe and Ame-
rica, have made Japan what she is to-day. The traveller who desires
to travel intelligently — to do more than merely wander from hotel to
hotel — may be referred for a summary of such information to a small
work entitled " Things Japanese," where, if he wishes for still more,
he will . find references to the original authorities in each special
branch. Of religion alone, a short sketch seemed indispensable, as
the temples are Japan's chief sights ; and we have added an outline
of history and a list of celebrated personages, in order to assist the
traveller to thread his way through tbe maze of proper names with
which he will be confronted. In Japan, more than in any European
country, is it necessary to take some trouble in order to master such
preliminary information. For whereas England, France, Italy, Ger-
many, and the rest, all resemble each other in their main features,
because all have alike grown up in a culture fundamentally identical,
this is not the case with Japan. He, therefore, who should essay to
travel without having learnt a word concerning Japan's past, would
run the risk of forming opinions ludicrously erroneous. We would
also specially recommend Griffis's "Mikado's Empire" and Rein's
"Japan" and **The Industries of Japan," as books which it would be
profitable to read on the way out. Rein's works are, it is true, fitted
only for the serious student, who is prepared for hard words ard tech-
nical details ; but " The Mikado's Empire " is calculated to appeal to
all classes of readers. Of books on Japanese art, we may name Ander-
son's admirable work, "The Pictorial Arts of Japan," and Huish's
more handy " Japan and its Art." Morse's " Japanese Homes " is an
excellent description, not only of the dwellings of the people, but of all
the articles belonging to their daily life.
By far the best maps are those now in course of publication at the
Imperial Geological Office, and to be obtained of Messrs. Kelly and
Walsh at Yokohama.
2. — Steam Communication.
Japan may be reached either by the Pacific Mail or the Occiden-
tal and Oriental Company's steamers from San Francisco in about
19 days, or from Vancouver by the Canadian Pacific Company's
steamers in a day or two less ; or else from Europe vid the Suez Canal
by the Peninsular and Oriental steamers from London and Brindisi \
Cmtom.' House. Treaty Limits ; Passports, 3
by the Messageries Maritimes from Marseilles, and by the Norddeu-
tscher Lloyd from Bremerhaven, Southampton, or Genoa in about 40
days. There are also outside steamers from London, especially those
of the "Glen" and "Shire" Lines, with good passenger accom-
modation.
Yokohama, the connecting port of all the above, is also the chief
centre of the local steamship traffic. The principal Japanese company
is the Nippon Yusen Ewaislm (Japan Mail Steamship Company), which
runs steamers thrice weekly to Hakodate, almost daily to Kobe; weekly
to Nagasaki and Shanghai; fortnightly vilt the Inland Sea to Vladivo-
stock in Siberia, calling at Fusan and Gensan in Korea, for Tientsin v'i§L
the Inland Sea, calling at Korean ports; weekly from Kobe to Sakai,
Tsurnga, Niigata on the West Coast, and Hakodate, occupying altoge-
ther about six weeks on the round trip; also, at longer intervals, to
the Loochoo and Bonin Islands. The Kobe Domei Kisen-Gwaisha
maintains communication with the principal ports in the Inland Sea,
and there are numerous smaller companies which run boats to most of
the ports on the coast as well as on some of the larger rivers and lakes.
Boats — known in the Treaty Ports as sampans — ply in all the
harbours, and land passengers from the steamers. The usual fare
from ship to shore, or vice versd^ is from 10 to 20 sen per head.
Hotel boats are in attendance at the. larger places.
8. — CusTOM-HousE.
A strict examination of the luggage of passengers is made at t]^
Custom-house ; but it is rare for any difficulty to arise, as opium is the
only article prohibited in the tarifE. All dutiable articles, however, should
be entered on the ship's manifest, as otherwise the owner renders
himself liable to a fine. (See also section on Shipment of Curios.)
4. — Tbeaty Limits; Passpokts.
Foreigners® have the right to reside without passports at the "Open
Ports" (also called "Treaty Ports") of Yokohama, Kobe, Osaka,
Nagasaki, Hakodate, and Niigata, and at any place within a radius of
10 ri, that is, nearly 24^ miles from those ports. The last place on
the Tokaido railway, coming from Yokohama, at which one may stay
without a passport is Kozu. . Tokyo, though not properly an Open Port,
may be visited without a passport, as may also its immediate neigh-
bourhood ; and the night may be spent at the Imperial, Tokyo, Club,
and Seiyoken Hotels, or at a friend's house without let or hindrance.
Passports for visiting other portions of Japan may be obtained
by tourists and all others not in Japanese employ by application
to the diplomatic representative of the country to which they
belong, these diplomatic representatives obtaining them from the Japan-
ese Foreign Office. Tlius, Englishmen mUst apply to the British
* *' ForeigpaerQ '* (Jap. gwaikokujin or ijin) is the word uni^^sally employed in Japan
to denote all persons or Caucasian race. It will sound o«d to new-comers to hear
KngUshmen speaking of themselves as ** foreigners," *' we foreigners."
4 Introduction : — Guides.
Minister, and Americans to the United States Minister, both of whom,
also the majority of the representatives of other countries, have the
Legations in Tokyo. Foreign employes must apply through the
Japanese employers.
It should be distinctly understood that passports, though never r
fused, are of the nature of a favour. They cannot be demanded of tl
Legation authorities. Properly speaking, the tourist should presei
himself in person at the Legation to make the application. When th
is impossible, a note should be written to the Minister, explaining tl
circumstances and requesting that the passport be sent to such and sue
a place. This application should be forwarded through the Consul (
the port at which one is staying. The Hakone-Miyanoshita-Atari
district is an exception. Passports for it can be obtained of the Kencl
^Prefecture) or of the Consuls at Yokohama on payment of a small fe
A similar rule holds good at Kobe with regard to passports for tl
Kyoto-Nara and Lake Biwa district, and at Nagasaki for the baths c
Ureshino and Takeo.
The Japanese authorities generally insist on being exactly informe
of the route the traveller purposes taking. He is therefore advised 1
make out his application with great minuteness, mentioning as man
routes and places on each route as possible. This he can best do eitlu
by copying portions of the headings and names of the chief places i
the itineraries given at the beginnfng of each Route in this volume, (
by taking counsel with some resident friend. After all, he is not ol
liged to visit every place on his programme, which had therefoi
better err on the side of over-fullness than on that of scantiness. ]
would be highly convenient if the Japanese authorities would grac
passports for all Japan ; but this they almost invariably refuse to d<
Passports are, however, granted for certain routes termed * Fixed * c
* Regular Routes,Mists of 'which are kept at the British and America
Legations. The word * Fixed * or ' Regular,' as tlius used, is not mean
to imply that travel is in any way restricted to the routes in questior
The arrangement is meant only to save trouble to the applicants as we!
as to the authorities.
An application for a passport should state the time for which th
passport is desired. From one to three months is the time which it i
generally advisable to mention, applications for longer periods beinj
liable to be refused. It is also desirable to state that the journey i
intended " for the benefit of my health."
6. — Guides.
Guides understanding English can be procured of the Guides' Associa
tion i^Kaiyiisha) at Yokohama and Kobe, with branches at Tokyo ant
Kyoto. Apply at any of the hotels. The fixed charge at presen
(1891) is advertised as follows : — "One dollar per day for a party o
one or two tourists ; over two, 25 cents added for each tourist. In al
cases the guide's travelling expenses must be paid by his employer, anc
he is to be allowed one dollar per day additional for his hotel expenses.
A guide is an absolute necessit}' to persons unacquainted with tli(
language. Those knowing a little Japanese may feel thembelve
Posts ; Telegrwphs ; Banks. Currency, Weights d Measures^ 5
more their own masters by hiring a man-servant, or "boy," also
able to cook, and having neither objection to performing menial
functions, nor opinions of his own as to the route which it wiU be
best to take.
6. — Posts ; Telegraphs ; Banks.
The Imperial Japanese Post and Telegraph services are excellent.
Letters and papers can be forwarded with perfect safety to the
different stages of a journey. The Post-oflSce Order system is
thoroughly efficient, and will be found useful by travellers who wish
to avoid carrying about much money.
In most' towns of any size the Post and Telegraph Offices are
combined. Telegrams in any of the principal Eumpean languages
cost 5 cents per Word, with a minimum charge of 25 cents, addresses
being charged for. A telegram in Japanese of 10 Karva characters
costs 15 cents, addresses not being charged for, and the foreign
residents therefore often avail themselves of this means of com-
manication.
There are at Yokohama, Kobe, and Nagasaki branches of the
Hongkong and Shanghai Bank, the New Oriental Bank, and the
Chartered Bank of India, Australia, and China. The 119th National
Bank, a Japanese institution in Tokyo, issues cheque-books for the
use of foreigners, and is a convenient medium for making payments to
the larger Japanese hotels and trading firms.
7. — ^CuRRENCY,
The values are decimal, with the yen^ or dollar, as the unit. One yen
contains K)0 sen or cents ; one «6w contains 10 r'ln. The currency
consists of gold which is practically never seen ; of silver pieces of 1
y«n, 50 «6w, 20 «e», 10 «ew, and 5 sen ; of nickel pieces of 5 sen ; of
copper pieces of 2 «e«, 1 sen^ 5 rm, and 1 r'ln^ besides others issued
during feudal days representing 1 J rm, 8 riw, (these are oblong pieces
called tempQ)y etc.; and of paper money worth 20 sen, 50 sen, 1 yen,
5 yeji, 10 yen, and various larger sums. Mexican silver dollars circulate
only at the Treaty Ports.
It is best to travel with paper money, both because of its superior
portability, and because it is better known to the inhabitants of the
interior than the silver yen. One of the first things the tourist should
do is to learn the difference between the various notes for the values
above-mentioned. He is advised to take with him no notes of a
larger denomination than 10 yen, as it is often difficult to get change
except in the large towns,
8. — Weights and Measures.
Distances are reckoned by ri and cho, 36 cho going to the ri.*^
One ri is equal to 2.44 English statute miles, or, roughly speaking,
to a trifle under 2^ miles. One cho is equal to 358 English feet, or
TTj of a mile. The cho is subdivided into 60 ken (1 ken=6 ft.
* Some mountain districts have a longer n of 50 cho.
Introduction : — Weights and Measures,
approximately), and the ken into 6 shahu (1 8hahu=l ft. ap-
proximately). The subdivisions of the shahu follow the deciiiiul
system. Throughout this work, the distances are given in ri and
cho as well as in miles, as visitors to Japan invariably fall very soon
into the Japanese method of reckoning, which indeed must be learnt in
any case, as coolies, jinrikisha-men, and others know notiiing of
English miles. A word of caution may here be given against the habit
of certain Japanese having a superficial knowledge of English, who
mistranslate the word ri by " miles." The following table, borrowed
from Dr. Whitney's " Dictionary of Roads, Towns, and Villages of
Japan," will be found useful : —
EQUIVALENTS OF JAPANESE £1 AND CSO IN ENGLISH MILES,
Japanese ri.
0
1
2
3
4
6
6
7
8
9
Miles
Miles
Miles
Miles
Miles
Miles
Miles
Miles
Miles
Miles
Miles
1
2.44
24.40
26.84
29.28
31.72
34.16
36.60
39.04
41.49
43 93
46.37
2
4,88
48.81
61.26
63.69
56.18
58.67
6101
63.45
6.-..H9
68.33
70.77
3
7.32
73.20
76.66
78.09
80.68
82.97
85.41
87.85
90.29
92.71^
96.17
4
9.76
97.61
100.05
102.49
101.93
107.37
109.81
112 25
114.69
117.13
119.68
5
12.2('
122.01
124.46
126.90
129 3J
131.78
134.21
136 66
139.10
141.64
143.98
6
u.e4
146.43
148.87
151.31
153.75
156.19
158.63
161.07
163.51
166.95
168.39
7
17.08
170.83
173.27
176.71
178.16
180.69
183.03
18647
187.91
190.35
192.79
8
19.52
195.23
197.67
200.11
202.55
2fi5 00
207.44
209.88
212..32
214.76
217.20
9-
21.96
219.64
222.08
J24.62
226.96
229.40
231.84
234.2b
286.72
239.16
241.60
Cho
Miles
Cho
Miles
Cho
Miles
Cho
Miles
Cho
Miles
Cho
Miles
1
0.07
7
0.47
13
0.88
19
1.29
25
1.69
31 •
2.10
2
O.U
■ 8
0.54
14
0.9o
20
1.36
26
1.76
32
2.17
8
0.2^
9
0.61
15
1.02
21
1.42
27
1.83
S3
2.24
4
0.27
10
0.68
16
1.08
22
1.49
28
1.90
84
2.30
6
0.34
11
0.76
17
1.15
23
1.66
29
1.97
35
2.37
6
0.41
12
0.81
18
1.22
24
1.63
80
2.03
36
2.44
Long Measure (Jcane). 10 hu=X sun (often translated 'inch,* but
=1.19 inches of Ehglish measure); 10 8un=\ shahu \ 6 8hahu=\ hen ;
10 8hahu=l jo. Tiie jo, equal to about 10 English feet, is the unit
empl'>ye<1 in measuring heights and depths.
Cloth Measure (Jcujira), 10 hu=\ stm ; 10 «mw=1 shahu, or nearly
12 inches ; 10 8hahu=l jo. In this measure, the shahu is ^ longer
than in Long Measure.
Land Measure {tsubo). The unit is the tsuho, nearly equivalent to
4 square yards English. An acre is nearly equivalent to 1,210 tsuho,
1 cho^^ Hcres, and 1 ri (Rquare)=6 sq. miles, approximately.
Measure of Capacity. 10 ^o=l sho which contains about 108J cubic
inches, and is a little larger. than IJ quart ; 10 «/?d=l to, nearly half
a bushel, or, for liquids, 4 gallons ; 10 to=l hohu, which is a fraction
less than 5 English bushels.
Weight's. The hin is about IJlb. avoirdupois; 1 lb. avoir.=abont 120
momrne. The kwan, which became the legal unit in 1891, is equal
to 1,000 momme (fi\ hin or a little over 8j Ibn.)
Inns ; Travelling Expenses, 7
9. — Inns; Travelling Expenses.
The inns are given from personal knowledge or from the best
accessible aathorities, an asterisk being sometimes prefixed to the name
of a house specially worthy of mention. Wliat is termed hatago at
a Japanese inn includes supper, bed, and breakfast, for which a single
charge is made. This varies in different parts of the country; at present
it ranges from 20 sen to 50 sen per head. Anything in the way of food
or liquor ordered in addition to the meals supplied has to be paid for
separately. There is no charge for firing, lighting, attendance, or
bath, provided always the traveller is content with what is given to every
one else, neither is there any for tea. But it is usual, shortly after
arriving and being shown into a room, or in paying one's account just
before leaving, to make a present, known as chadai or * tea-money.'
The latter course is recommended. With Japanese travellers, this
tea-money varies with the rank of the individual, the amount of extra
attention which he desires or has received, and with the quality of
the accommodation. The foreign tourist is on a somewhat different
footing, and there are seldom gradations of rank in his case to be con-
sidered. As a fair and practical solution of a vexed question, those
who travel d la japonaise and who are charged in accordance with the
above scale, may be recommended to make the amount of their
chadai also vary from 20 sen to 50 sen per night. Therefore, for
a single night's entertainment, the cost, hatago and chadai included,
may be put down at from 40 cents to $1. If two or more persons are
travelling together, the chadai is increased say to one half more for
two, and double for three persons. The first guest to arrive has
the prior right to the bath. In some parts, especially at bathing
resorts, there is a fixed rate for accommodation only, the food being
charged for separately according to order. In such places, it is. usual
to make a present for distribution amongst the servants in addition to
the chadai, whereas in the ordinary inns such presents are not looked
for.
It is but fair that foreigners should pay more than natives, both for
hotel accommodation and for jinrikishas. They generally weigh more,
they almost always want to travel more quickly, they give infinitely
more trouble at an inn with their demands for separate rooms, fresh
water in the bath, the occupation of a portion of the kitchen to cook
their European food in, and a dozen other such requirements, to say
nothing of the necessity under which the host lies of reporting their
presence to the police.
. In the Europeanised hotels at such frequented spots as Nikko,
^ Kamakura, Miyanoshita, Kyoto, Shizuoka, etc., the general charge is
$2.50 or $3.50 a day, everything included except liquors. The charges
at the hotels under foreign nianagement in the Open Ports are generally
slightly higher. The charge per diem for a native servant is generally
50 sen a day. The average charge (to foreigners) ior jiwrihishas in the
most frequented portions of the country is now (1891) from 10 to 15
sen per n, the same per hour, and $1 per diem. About 50 per cent, is
added to these rates in bad weather and at night. But the tendency of
late years has been towards constantly increased rates, owing to the
8 Introduction : — CUmate ; Dreu ; Time of Vint.
ride in the price of rice and other staple commodities. It is i
give It small gratuity (_sakale) to jiorikiHtia-men after a hard ran
Perhaps one might Ba.y that the total cost to a traveller of i
habits, travelling at a reasonable speed, and having with him a
servant, should not exceed $8 per diem. If he restricts him
mountainODB districls, the expense will be considerably leas.
It will be seen from the above that the hostelries at which tn
in Japan put np are of three kinds : the European hotel, the
peanised or half-European half-Japanese hotel (Aateru), and the
native inn Q/adoya). The tea-honse (chaya) is different again,
place where people neither sleep nor dine, but only halt for a she
to rest and take slight refreshment. Reeidenta in Japan, howeve
include inns under the denomination of tea-honses.
The best style of Japanese inn is now generally supplied »itl
chairs and tables ; or if there are ijone in the house, some can be I
in from tlie school or the police-station hard by, where thej
rigueur. Beds are still rare ; but good quilts (futon') are lai
on the mats, wherever may be most convenient ; a smaller qoilt
rolled into a pillow, and in summer a mosquito-net will be provid
It is a common Japanese custom to carry letters of introductic
inn to inn (annai-jo). This has advantages, especially in seai
epidemic disease or under any other circumstances liable to cai
traveller to he viewed with Buapicion, or when, for the purposes
special investigation, he wishes to bo brought iuto intimate ri
wilh his hosts along the road. Many inna keep printed fo
annai-jo which they will fill in with the traveller's name. Occai
these, and the little paper slips in which toothpicks are brougl
the fans which it is the custom to present on departure to those
who have given a suitable chadai, are charming specimens of Ji
taste in small matters ofevery-day life.
10. — Cliuate ; DsEss ; Timb of Visit.
Bemeinber that Japan is not in the tropics, and bring warm c
with you, whatever be the season of your visit; also ver;
clothing, if your visit be in the summer. Even in July,
the mean temperature of Tokyo is about 76° Fahrenheit, daj
come when yon will be glad of all your winter things. This
still more to the mountains. On the other hand, be more cai
exposing yourself to the sun than you would be in England, J
not 20° nearer the trofncs for nothing. A sun helmet and a wh
brella are useful additions to the traveller's wardrobe.
Though clothes of the roughest description will suffice for the<
districts, bring something better — something such as might b
at home — in which to appear at the larger hotels, and to mis, .
be, in Tokyo or Yokohama society, whether Japanese or foreign,
regard to boots, it is advisable to wear such as can be pulled <
on easily, as it i» neceuary to remove one's boots every time one ■
houte or temple, m order not to »oil the matt on which the Japa/.
Grave offence is given, and naturally given, by the disregard
Provisions. 9
cnstom. Light shoes or boots with elastic sides are therefore to be
preferred, except for mountain work. If your boots give out, try the
native straw sandals {waraji) with the native sock {tdbi). Many
foreigners have found them excellent foot-gear, the only addition re-
quired being a small piece of cotton-wool to prevent chafing by the
tliong which passes between the great and the second toe. Boots barely
holding together can be made to last a day or two longer by tying
waraji underneath them.
Roughly speaking, the Japanese summer and early autumn are hot
and wet ; the late autumn and early winter cool, dry, and delightful ;
February and March disagreeable, with occasional snow and dirty
weather, which is all the more keenly felt iij Japanese inns devoid
of fire-places ; the laie spring rainy and windy, with beautiful days
interspersed. The average temperature of January, which is the coldest
month, is between 36° and 37° Fahrenheit at Tokyo; but there are
frequent frosts at night during five months of the year, namely, from
November to March inclusive. Skating is rare in Tokyo. The climate
of Northern Japan from Sendai onwards is much colder in winter,
though not appreciably cooler during July and August. A similar
remark applies even more forcibly to the entire West coast, which is
exposed to icy winds blowing direct from Siberia.
Each traveller must judge for himself from the above remarks which
season to select for his tour. If possible, he should be either in Tokyo
or in Kyoto during the first week in April to see the magnificent
display of cherry-blossoms, which are followed throughout the early
summer by other flowers — peonies, azaleas, wistarias, irises — well-worth
seeing both for their own sake and for that of the picturesque crowds
of Japanese sightseers whom they attract. If not able to visit Kyoto
early in April, he should try to be there at the end of October or early
in November, when the autumn leavegf are in all their glory of red and
gold. Tokyo is less favoured in this respect, but the chrysanthemums
there early in November are magnificent. The summer may most
advantageously be devoted to Nikko, Miyanoshita, Arima, or Unzen,
or to travelling in Yezo and in the high mountainous districts of the
interior of the Main Island, which are practically inaccessible except
between June and October. Fuji can only be ascended during the hottest
period of summer.
1 1 . — ^Provisions.
Except at a few of the larger towns and favourite hill or sea-side
resorts, meat, bread, and the other forms of European food are unknown.
Even chickens are but rarely to be obtained ; for though plenty may
1)6 seen in almost every village, the people object to soil them — partly
because they keep them for the sake of their eggs, partly on account
of a lingering Buddhist dislike to taking life. Those, therefore, who
cannot live on the native fare of rice, eggs, and fish (tliis, too, not to
be counted on in the mountains), should carry their own supplies with
them. Winee, spirits, and cigars are equally unobtainable; but beer is
to be met with in most towns, excellent beer being now brewed both at
Yokohama {KitinBeer) and at Tokyo {Yehisu Beer), It is advisable to
10 Introduction: — Means of Locomotion ; Luggage,
take one or two knives, forks, spoons, a corkscrew, a tin-opener, and
most elementary cooking utensils. Plates and glasses can be borrov
almost everywhere. Those who are fairly easy to please and who wisl
travel lightly, can reduce the size of their provision basket by us
the rice, fish, and eggs of the country as auxiliary to what they ca
with them. When starting off for the first time, it is best to err on
side of taking too much. Many who view Japanese food hopef u
from a distance, have found their spirits sink and their tempers eml
tered when brought face to face with its unsatisfying .actuality.
Milk may now sometimes be obtained at the towns along the Tokaii
Nakasendo, and other chief highways, but should not be counted •
The yolk of an egg beaten up is considered by many to be a gc
substitute for it in tea or coffee.
It is essential to avoid all water into which rice-fields may ha
drained. In the plains all water should be filtered and boiled bef(
drinking.
The following Japanese articles of food are considered palatable
most foreigners:
Miso-ahiru^ bean-soup.
Sakana no shio-yahi^ broiled fish.
SaJcana no tempura^ a fish fritter.
Saki^ a strong liquor made from rice and generally taken hot.
Tamago-yaki, a sort of omelette.
Tori-nabe, chicken cut up small and stewed.
dshi-nahej beef similarly treated.
Unagi-meshi, rice with eels done in soy.
12. — Means op Locomotion ; Luggaqe.
Take the railway wherever available. On those plains which i
railway yet traverses, take a jinrikisha. Avoid the native basl
(carriage), if you have either nerves to shatter or bones to shake, ar
be very chary of burdening yourself with a horse and saddle of yoi
own in the interior, as all sorts of troubles are apt to arise with regai
to shoeing, run-away grooms (bettos)^ etc. Such, in a few words,
our advice, founded on long personal experience. Other possible coi
veyances are pack-horses (but the Japanese pack-saddle is torture
cows, the kago — a species of small palanquin, uncomfortable at first, bi
not disliked by many old residents, — and lastly chairs borne by foi
coolies; but these have but recently been introduced from China, an
are only found at Miyanoshita, Nikko, and a very few other plact
much resorted to by foreigners. The pleasantest sort of trip for
healthy man is that in which jinrikisha-riding and walking are con
bined. In the hilly districts which make Japan so picturesque, walk
ing is the only possible, or at least the only pleasant method c
progression. The luggage is then taken on a pack-horse or on
coolie*8 back.
Persons intending to go at all off the beaten tracks are advised t
compress their luggage within narrow limits. This is specially necee
sary in the thinly populated mountainous parts of the country, wher<
Means of Locomotion ; lAtggage, 11
one coolie — not improbably a grandfather superannuated from regular
■work — is often the sole means of transport that a village can pro-
duce, all the horses being generally with their masters miles away in
the mountains.
It is always best to avoid large boxes and portmanteaus, and to
divide the luggage into two or three smaller pieces for convenience in
piling on a coolie's hod or for balancing the two sides of a pack-horse.
The. Japanese wicker baskets called yanagi-gori are much recommend-
ed, as cheap, portable, capacious, and contractable. The yanagi-gori
(sometimes called hori for short) consists of an oblong basket, with a
second fitting over it to any depth as a cover, and is consequently
convenient, not only for clothes and books, but for provisions, since
the size of the basket can be diminished as the stores are consumed,
without there being any empty space for the remaining articles to
rattle about in. A pair of these yanagi-gori — one for personal efiEects,
the other for provisions — should suffice to him who intends to rough
it. They should be provided with a large wrapper of oil-paper
against the rain, and fastened either with cords which can be pro-
cured anywhere, or with stout leather straps.
As to Japanese roads, no general opinion can be expressed. Some-
times excellent when first made, they are often kept in insufficient
repair. Travellers must therefore not be astonished if they come across
roads, which, though mentioned in this work as good for jinrikishas,
have become almost impassable even for foot passengers — the result of
a single season of frosts and typhoons. The changes in this respect
are in proportion to the violence of the Japanese climate. It is further-
more probable that the distances given in our itineraries differ slightly in
some cases from the actual truth, notwithstanding all the care taken to
obtain as accurate information as possible. It is hoped, however, that
euch discrepancies will never be so great as seriously to affect the rat-
veller's plans. An apparent error of \ mile will occasionally be observed
in the total mileage of the itineraries. This arises from the fact that the
mileage of each stage of a journey being given only within \ mile of
the actual distance, the fractional errors thus arising, though balanced
and allowed for as carefully as possible, sometimes unavoidably ac-
cumulate. * On the other hand, the so-called total mileage is obtained,
not by adding up the mileage column, but by direct calculation
(also within \ mile) of the value of the total in ri and cho.
On the railroads, men desirous of practising economy will find the
second class quite good enough, and those who wish to make a near
acquaintance with Japanese life will meet in the 2nd class with far
more subject-matter for their investigations. But ladies are advised to
travel 1st class, as smoking is general, and the ways of the Japanese
lower middle class with regard to clothing, the management of
children, and other matters, are not altogether as our ways. On
some lines there is a non-smoking 2nd class compartment. There are
as yet no sleeping-cars. The Railway Regulations permit holders of
tickets for distances of over 50 miles to break their journey at the
more important places. Luggage is checked as in the United States,
each passenger being allowed to carry a liberal amount free of
charge.
12 Introdution : — Places Best Worth Vistting* Purchases.
13. — Places Best Worth Visiting.
The choice of places to be visited must depend greatly on whether
scenes of » natural beauty or the works of man form the chief object
which the tourist has in view, and also to a certain extent on considera-
tions of health. Those who desire to investigate Buddhist temples will
find what they want in fullest perfection at Kyoto, at Nara, at Tokyo,
and at Nikko. The chief shrines of Shintoism are at Ise, and at
Kitsuki in the province of Izumo.
Those in search of health and comparative coolness during the
summer months, to be obtained without much " roughing," are advised
to try Miyanoshita, Nikko, orlkao in the Tokyo district, Arima in, the
Kobe district, or (if they come from China and wish to remain as near
home as possible) Unzen in the Nagasaki district All the above,
except Ise and Kitsuki, may be safely recommended to ladies. Yezo
is specially recommended to persons residing in Japan proper, and
desiring thorough change of air. At Hakodate they will get sea-
bathing, at Sapporo they will get fishing if they go in June or early
in July. But Japan is more especially the happy hunting-ground of the
lover of the picturesque. Every variety of scenery, from the gracefully
lovely to the ruggedly grand, is here to be found. Of the former
character are the neighbourhood of Yokohama (Kamakura, Enoshima,
Kanazawa), the whole Hakone district, Fuji and its surrounding ring
of lakes, Nikko, Haruna, the Inland Sea, the Kiso valley, North-
Eastern Kyushu, Matsushima in the North of the Main Island, and many
more. Rugged and sublime in their character are the Etchu-Hida
range, Koma-ga-take in Koshu, the whole enormous mass of mountains
lying between the rivers Fujikawa and Tenryu-gawa, and the district
near the North- Western coast including Mounts Chokai, Gwassan, and
Haguro-san. But the travelling amidst these rough mountains is itself
rough in the extreme. None but thoroughly healthy men, inured to
hardship, should attempt it.
As for what is called " seeing Japanese life,*' the best plan is to avoid
the Open Ports. You will see theatres, wrestling, dancing-girls, and
the new Japan of European toilettes and uniforms, political lectures,
clubs, colleges, hospitals, and Methodist chapels, in the big cities. The
old peasant life still continues almost unchanged in the districts not
opened up by railways.
14. — PuBCHASES, Objects op Aet.
Travellers will find the greatest facilities for purchases of every des-
cription in the large stores of Yokohama and^Kobe. They will also find
much to attract them in Tokyo, Kyoto, Osaka, and Nagasaki. The
names of the best shops are given under each of these towns. Though
now sometimes sold in large stores, Japanese objects of art are not
produced in large workshops. In old days, when the best pieces were
made, few masters employed as many as half a dozen workmen in
addition to the members of their own family, and chefs d^ceuvre often
originated in humble dwellings, where perhaps a single artisan laboured
in the most primitive style assisted by one or two children. At th6
Objects of Art. Shipment of Curios* 1^
present day, foreign influence is causing the gradual introduction of
commercial principles, larger manufactures, and splendidly decked out
shop-windows, but as yet only in two or three of the larger towns.
Even there, the best things must often be sought in narrow lanes.
It was also formerly, and is still to some extent, characteristic of th&
Japanese tradesman and artisan -artist to object to bringing out hi»
finest specimens at once. Tlie rule is that several visits are necessary
before he will display his choicest articles, and that even then a long-
time must be spent in bargaining. A few establishments of the more
modern sort have fixed prices.
Japan is now almost denuded of old curios. Some have found their
way into the museums of the country, while priceless collections have
crossed the sea to Europe and America. But many of the production*
of the present day are eminently beautiful, more especially the em-
broideries and cloisonrd. It is not possible within the limits of a
travelling Handbook to enter into a disquisition on Japanese art — its-
origin, its characteristics, and the great names that adorn its history.
A whole library on this subject has come into existence within the
last decade, and the views of connoisseurs differ widely even on points
of prime importance. We must content ourselves with mentioning th&
names of certain art-forms unknown in Europe, and for most of which
no appropriate English equivalents exist. The objects embodying
these art-forms will constantly come under the traveller's notice if he
frequents the curio stores. Such are
The Inro, a medicine box in segments, generally made of lacquer.
The segments are held together by means of a cord, to one extremity
of which a netsuke is often attached.
The Kakemono or banging scroll, generally painted, sometimes em-
broidered.
The Koro, or incense-burner, generally in bronze or porcelain.
The Mdkimono, or scroll, not meant to be hung up. It is used chiefly
for manuscripts which are often beautifully illustrated.
The Netsuke^ a kind of ornament for the tobacco-pouch, carved out
of wood or ivory. Larger carvings in the same materials are often
miscalled netsuke by foreign dealers.
The OkimonOj a general name for various snaall ornaments having no
special use, but intended to be placed in an alcove or on a cabinet.
We may also mention various gear appertaining to the Japanese
sword and often beautifully wrought in metals and in alloys, of
which latter the best known are shihu-iehi and shakudOj both formed
of a basis of copper with varying admixtures of silver and gold.
Specially noteworthy among these articles are the tmbay or guard, and
the menuki, small ornaments fixed one on each side of the hilt, and
held in place by the silk cord which binds together the various parts of
the bundle.
15. — Shipment of Curios*
A reference to the local Directories (or Hong^ Lists, as they ar&
also called) will furnish the names of those firms in Yokohama and
Kobe which, from tiooe to time, make a business of shipping travellers^
14 Introduction : — Shootbig, Fishing,
purchases to Europe, America, and elsewhere. As a rule, too; the
foreign firms which deal in curios will undertake to forward anything^
to destination. Remember, when sending a box for shipment to a
shipping firm, to nail it down but slightly, as it will he opened and
examined at the Custom-House. The shipping firm shoirld be fur-
nished with a detailed list of the contents and their value, and be
requested to see to the box being secured in a more solid manner after
examination.
16. — Shooting.
In the mountainous districts of Japan, especially in the Northern por-
tion of the Main Island, there are plenty of deer and boar, while ia
Yezo many bears still remain. Duck of various kinds, the green
pheasant, quail, woodcock, snipe, and hares, are to be found in the
plains and on the lower ranges of hills bordering the flat country, while
on somewhat higher ground the copper-pheasant has its abode in the
thickest cover. Japan, with its rich plains and hills giving ample
shelter to game, is naturally a good sporting country.. It would be
still better if a law were enforced giving protection to birds and ani-
mals during the breeding season. Be this as it may, heavy restrictions
are placed upon the foreign sportsman. The license which he has> to
obtain at a cost of $10 yearly only entitles him to shoot within a radius
of 10 ri (24J miles) from the Treaty Ports and' witlun an irregular
boundary of less area round Tokyo. But the game having been almost
entirely shot out within this area, the majority of resident sportsmen
have abandoned the field. In the event of existing conditions being
replaced by others which will allow foreigners to travel and shoot all
over Japan, there will be excellent sport for one provided with good
dogs and not afraid of hard walking. Meanwhile, a gun-case k a
useless piece of baggage to the foreign visitor.
The shooting season begins on the 15th October, and ends oo the
14th April. Shooting licenses may be obtained at the. Treaty Ports
from the Prefecture (Kencho). Applications by residents in Tokyo
for shooting licenses must in the first instance be made to the Police
Bureau (Keishi-cho) by letter, stating the full name, agey and residence
of the applicant, who must afterwards apply in person for the license
at the Chief Police OfiQce, on being informed that it has been issued.
The applicant has to enter into a written engagement to observe certain
regulations, the violation of which involves the forfeiture of tlie license
and the payment of a fine of $10 more. Shooting beyond Treaty
Limits is strictly prohibited.
17. — ^Fishing.
Locality, Fly-fishing may be said to be confined to that portion of
the East Coast of Japan, North of Tokyo, where the water is sufficient-
ly cold for salmon and trout. In Yezo, the river Yurap on the East
Coast, and the Siiiribetsu on the West Coast are recommended. Both
are in season about June. In former years good trout fishing was
obtainable in the river Toyobira near Sapporo ; but owing to the refuse
from the flax mills now established there being allowed to discharge
into the stream, only few fish run past it. Most of the other rivers
Miscellaneous Hints. 15
of Y€Zo and of the Northern provinces of the Main Island contain
troat. The lakes of Yezo also abound in ao-masu and ami-mcLsu^ the
former a pink, the latter a white-fleshed fish. These take the fly
greedily, and are caught up to 2 lbs. in weight. Near Fukuoka in the
province of Rikuokn is a good stretch of water, which would probably
ne best worked by staying at Ichinohe. These places will be included
in the Northern Railway line when the latter is completed. Farther
South, near Furusawa and close to the railway, is a fishing river called
the Nagagawa, and in the N. W. of the Main Island the rivers Iwaki
and Noshiro are believed to be worth a visit. Trout are also found in
Lakes Biwa and Chu/enji. Lake Hakone also has been recently stocked.
Fly-fishers can have good hope of sport during June, July, and the
early part of Au<»u8t. ,
Fish, There are two classes of sporting fish, — the shake, or salmon
as known in Europe, and the masu {Salmo japonicus). The shake is a
full-sized salmon, and ascends the rivers in great quantities during
autumn and early winter. All the Northern rivers hold these fish, which
in Yezo are so plentiful that they fall an easy prey to crows and bears.
Many salmon must weigh ns much as 30 lbs. when caught ; but
tliey Hfford no sport to the angler, since like salmon in other Pacific
waters, they neither rise to a fly nor run to a spinning bait. At new
year tlie shops in Tokyo are full of smoked shake^ which have been
sent down from the North.
Of the masu, there are several varieties ; bat they are all of the
trout or salmon-trout description, and they are all sporting fish. The
true masu run up the rivers from May to August, their ascent depend-
ing on the temperature of the water. Between 56° and 65° these fish
are in the best condition. Below 50° they are not taken. An 8 lb. fish
!« a lar^re one, the usual size being 5 lb. or 6 lb.
Tackle, Ordinary salmon tackle is used, with flies of medium
salmon size and plenty of bright colour, especially orange and yellow.
The fl}' is but rarely taken on the surface, and should therefore be well
drowned. A rod of ahout 16 ft. is most convenient, as the fish are
strong and the pools often large. Wading trousers are useful. Spin-
ning with a spoon-bait or a phantom minnow is often successful. In
Lake Cliuzenji, the fish are caught during the summer months by
trolling from a boat with 60 or 70 yards of line heavily leaded. The
bait used is a kind of Colorado spoon, and can be obtained from Nishi-
inura in the Ginza, Tokyo, where also Japiinese lines can be had to
supplement the angler's gear for this kind of fishing.
Accommodation. Except in Yezo, fair accommodation can be had
everywhere. In Yezo generally one must be prepared for rough
quarters, and many districts there are quite uninhabited, so that a
tent must form part of the sportsman's outfit if he is to be free in his
movements.
18. — Miscellaneous Hints.
Take plenty of flea-powder or camphor ; also, if going off the beaten
tracks, take soap, candles, and carbolic acid — the latter to counteract '
the unpleasant odours that often pervade Japanese inns.
16 Introduction : — Miscellaneous Hints,
Tnke towels, a pair of sheets, and a pillow, or at least a pillow-case
to put on the extempore pillow which the tea-house people will arrange.
Instead of loose sheets, souie prefer to sew two sheets together to form
a bag which is tied round the sleeper's neck.
Entrust your passport to your guide or servant. This will obviate
interruptions from police officers at inconvenient hours.
If your servant seems honest and intelligent, entrust him with money
for current expenses. This will save a world of petty bother and vexa-
tion as to change, bargaining, and such matters.
If you have much money with you, entrust it to the host of each
respectable hotel you stop at, and get his receipt for it.
Start early, and do not insist on travelling after dark. You will
thus most easily obtain good coolies or hor^ses for the day's journey.
By arriving at your destination before sunset, you will be likely to find
the bath as yet unused, and will thus avoid tlie trouble and delay en-
tailed by the necessity of having other water heated. You will also
have a choice of rooms.
When planning out your da)^*s journey, allow an hour for each ri
to be done on foot, which should be sufficient to cover stoppages
and unavoidable dela3^s. Ten ri (24^ miles) is considered by the
Japanese a proper day's work.
However inconvenient to yourself, never refuse the coolies' request
to be allowed to stop for food, as they can do no work on an empty
stomach.
The Japanese, whose grande passion is bathing, use water at higher
temperatures — 110°-120° Fahrenheit — than European physicians, con-
sider healthful. No one, however, will be injured by taking baths of
between *100° and 106° Fahrenheit, unless he has a weak heart or is
liable to congestion. Owing to some unexplained peculiarity of the
climate, hot baths are found by almost all Europeans in Japan to suit
them better than cold. It is advisable to pour hot water over the head
from time to time, and strong persons may advantageously end up
with a cold douche. In any case there is no danger of catching cold.
The hotter the bath, the greater the impunity with which one may
afterwards expose one's self to the cold air. The reason why people
at borne entertain the notion that hot baths give a chilly reaction, is
that they do not take them hot enough, or do not immerse themselves
up to the neck. The Japanese have the habit, to us disagreeable, of
:getting into the same bath, one after another, or even at the same time.
Massage is much practised in Japan, and is a capital restorative
from fatigue after mountain climbing. The services of a blind sliam-
|>ooer {amma san) may be obtained at almost every inn.
Never enter a Japanese house with your boots on. The mats take
the place of our chairs and sofas. What should we say to a man who
trod on our chairs and sofas with his dirty boots ?
It is next to impossible to get windows opened at night in Japanese
inns. The reason is that it is considered unsafe to leave anything
open on account of thieves, and there is a police regulation to enforce
closing.
In the event of trouble arising with regard to accommodation, the
Language. 17
procuring of coolies, etc., always apply to the police, who are almost
invariabl}^ polite and serviceable.
Take visiting cards with you. Japanese with whom you become
acquainted will often want to exchange cards.
Above all, be constantly polite and conciliatory in your demeanour
towards 'the people. Whereas the lower classes at home are apt to
resent suuve manners, and to imagine that he who addresses them
politely wishes to deceive them or get something out of them, every
Japanese, however humble, expects courtesy, being himself courteous.
Never show any impatience. You will only get stared at or laughed
at behind your back, and matters will not move any the quicker in
this land where an hour more or less is of no account. The word
tadaima, which the dictionaries, in tiieir simplicity, render by " im-
mediately," may mean any time between now and Christmas. Storm-
ing will not mend matters, when you find (to take one instance out of
a hundred) that your jinrikisha coolies wish to stop for a meal just
after you have started and have been calculating that you will arrive
at such and such a place at such and such an hour. It is best to resign
oneself at the beginning, once for all. While waiting patiently, you
have an opportunity of studying Japanese life. Neither be moved to
anger because you are asked personal questions. To ask such questions
is the Japanese way of showing kindly interest.
19. — Language.
Thft Japanese language, though extremely difficult to learn correctly,
is easy to acquire a smattering of ; and even a smattering will add im-
mensely to the pleasure of a tour in the country, by bringing the
traveller into personal relations with the people, and by delivering him
from the constant tutelage of guides and interpreters.
Remember, in pronouncing Japanese, that the consonants are to be
sounded approximately as in English, the vowels as in Spanish or
Italian, that is to say : —
a as in father i as in pin
e as in pet o as in pony
u as in put
U is sometimes almost inaudible, as in arima8(u), de8(u), 8(u)ko8hi,
etc. W is often omitted after k or g^ as kashi^ " cake," for kwashL
There is scarcely any tonic accent ; in other words, all the syllables
are pronounced equally, or nearly so. But care must be taken to dis-
tinguish short o and u from long o and u. G is always hard as in
" give," never soft as in " gin " ; but in Eastern Japan it is pro-
nounced like ng when in the middle of a word.
The adjective precedes its noun, and the genitive precedes the nomi-
native. Prepositions follow their noun, and are therefore really " post-
positions." The verb comes at the end of the sentence. There is no
distinction between singular and plural, or between the difEerent persons
in the verb.
The following vocabulary of words and phrases connected with food
and travelling will be found useful. Those ambitious of learning more
18
In&odiiction : — Language,
can provide themselves witli Chamberlain's " Handbook of Colloquial
Japanese." Satow and IshibaHhi's English-Japnnese pocket dictionary
is excellent. Hepburn's pocket dictionary is to be recommended for
Japanese-English.
Vocabulary.
Bag
fukuro
Fruit
mizn-gwashi
Baggage
nimotsu
Grapes
hudo
Bath
furo
Guide
annm-sha
Bathroom
furo-ha
Horse
uma
Beans
mame
Hotel
yadoya
Bed
nedai
Ice
'kori
Bed -room
nema^ nebeya
Inn
yadoya
Beer
biiru
Kitchen
daidokoro
Bell
kane
Knife
hocho
Blanket
furanken, ketto
Lemon
yvzu
Boat
fune
Lemonade
ramune
Boatman
sendo
Luggage
nimotsu
Bottle
tokkuri
Lunch
hiru gozen
Box
hako
Mat
tatami
Brazier
hihachi
Match
haya-tsukegi
Bread
pan
Matting
goza
Breakfast
asa^han
Moat
niku
Bridge
hashi
Melon (musk-)
makuvoa-uri
Cake
kxjoashi
„ (water-)
suikwa
Carriage
hasha
Milk
chichi
Charcoal
8umi
Money
kane^ kinsu
Chicken
niwatori
Mosquito-net
kaya
Chopsticks
hashi
Mustard
karashi
Coachman
gyosha
Napkin
kuchi-fuki
Coffee
kohiy kahe
Oil
abura
Coolie
ninsoku
Omnibus
nori-ai-hasha
Cucumber
ki-uri
Onions
negi
Dining-room
shokudo
Orange
mikan
Dinner (late)
yushoku
Oyster
kaki
Door
to
Pass (between
tdge
Downstairs
shita
mountains)
Driver
gyosha
Passport
(ryokd-)menjd
Duck (tame)
ahiru
Peach
momo
Duck (wild)
karao
Pear
na.sh.i
Eels
unagi
Peas
endo-mame
Egg
tamago
Pepper
kosho
Egg-plant
nasu
Persimmon
kaki
Feast
gochiso
Pheasant
kiji
Ferry
funa-watashi
Plum
sumomo
Fish
sakana
Post-office
yubin-kyoku
Food
tahemono
Potatoes
imo
Food (foreign)
yoshoku
„ (sweet)
satsuma-imo
Fork
niku-sashi
Quail
uzura
Fowl
tori
Railway
tetsudo
Language.
19
Bailway train
kisha
Tomato
ai(;a-na«2i
Bice (boiled)
meshif gozen
Tooth-pick
koydji
Boom
heya^ zaahiki
Towel
te-nugui
Salmon
shake
Train
kisha
Salmon trout
masu
Tramway
tetsvdo-basha
Salt
shio
Trout
aiy yamame
Sardine
iwashi
Tunnel
ana
Ship
fune
Turnip
kabu
Snipe
shigi
Upstairs
nikai
Soap
shahon
Vegetables
yasai
Soap
soppu
Vinegar
su
Soy
shoyu
Waiter I
boy!
Spinach
horensd
Waitress I
msan !
Spoon
saji
Water (cold)
mizu
Stamp (postage) yubin-gitte^ inshi
Water (hot)
yu, 0 yu
Steamer
jokisen
Water-closet
benjOf chozuba
Strawberries
ichigo
Window
mado
Sagar
Sato
Wine
budoshu
Sapper
yumeski
I
watakmhi
Tea
chay 0 cha
You
anatxiy omae
Tea-hoase
chaya
He
ano otoko
Telegram
dempo
She ,
ano onna
Telegraph-office denshin-hyohu
It
sore
Ticket
kippu
We
watakushi
Ticket (return) ohen-gippu 1
They
ano hitO'tachi
1 hiiotsu
No. 1 ichi'ban
2 futatsu
, 2 ni-ban
3 mitsu
, 3 sam-ban
4 yotsu
, 4 yo-ban
5 itsutau
, 5 go-ban^
6 mutsu
, 6 roku-ban
7 nanatsu \
, 7 shichi-ban
8 yatsu
, 8 hachi-ban
9 kokonotsu
, 9 ku'ban
10 to
1
, 10 ju-ban
20 ni-ju
50 go'jii
i 80
hachiju
30 san-ju
60 roku
ju 90
ku'ju
40 8hi-ju
70 shich
i-ju 100
hyaku
$ 1 ichi-en
$ 2 ni-en
10 cents jis-sen
Ist class jbto
20 cfents ni-jis-aen
2nd „
chuto
30 cents san-jis-sen
3rd „
kato
Many of our words have no Japanese equivalents, because the things
for which they stand are not known in Japan. Such are, for instance,
jam, lamb, tin-opener. The following Japanese words, for which there
are no exact English equivalents, are constantly heard in travelling :
Bento, luncheon carried with one.
Bentd-bako, a box to hold such luncheon.
20
Introduction : — Language.
Betto, a rnnning groom.
Kago, a kind of basket or litter in which travellers are carried.
Yanagi-gori, a very usefal sort of trunk made of wicker-work.
Useful Sentences.
Please come here.
That will do.
Thank yotr.
How do you do ?
What o'clock is it ?
Good night.
Don't do that.
That won't do.
Is that all right ?
Please excuse me.
You had better go and ask.
Where is it ?
I don't know.
Wait a little.
Go more quickly.
I mean to start at 7 o'clock to-
morrow morning.
Is the luggage ready ?
Please take care.
Is nothing forgotten ?
Please order the jinrikishas.
Please order three jinrikishas with
two men each.
We will start as soon as every-
thing is ready.
What 18 this place called ?
What is the name of that
mountain ?
How far is it to the next town ?
Please to accept this small offer-
ing lis tea-money.
Many thanks for your trouble.
I will rest a little.
Please engage a coolie to carry
the luggage.
What is the charge per ri ?
Which is the best hotel ?
Have you any rooms ?
Have you any beer ?
Oide noMLu
Mb yoroshiii
Arigaio.
Konnichi toa I
Nan-doki desu ha f
0 yasumt nasai.
So shicha ikenai.
Sore ja ikenai.
Sore de yoroshii ka f
Gomen nasai.
Elite kuru ga it,
Doko desuf
Shirimasen,
Sukoshi mate.
Hayaku ! hayaku !
Myo-asa shichi-ji m, shuttateu ski-
masu,
Nimotsu no shitaku toa^ yoroshii
kaf
Ki wo tsukete kvdasai.
Wasure-mono wa nai ka f
Kuruma no shitaku too, shite ku-
dasai.
Ni-nin-biki ujo, san-cho atsuraete
kvdasai.
Shitaku shidaif dekakemasho.
Koko wa^ nan to iu tokoro desu
kaf
A no yama wa^ nan to iimasu ka f
Koko hara^ saki no shuku made^
ri-su wa dono kurai desu f
Kore vHi sukoshi desu ga, o char
dai desu,
O sewa ni narimashita,
Sukoshi yasumimasho.
Nimotsu no ninsoku wo, yatotte
kudasau
Ichi-ri ikura no wari desu ka f
Yado wa, nani-ya ga yoroshii
kaf
Zashiki wa^ arimaMu ka f
Biiru loa, arimasu ka f
Tlie Shinto Religion,
21
Have you change for a dollar ?
This room will do.
Is the bath ready ?
Let me know when it is ready.
Can you give us European food ?
Please let me look at it.
Are there any mosquitoes here ?
I suppose you haven't bedsteads,
have you ?
Please let me have more quilts.
I am going by the first train
to-morrow morning.
At what o'clock does the first
train start ?
Please wake me early.
Shall we be in time r
I don't want a lamp.
Please bring a candle.
Where is the W.G.?
Please show me the way.
Where is the ticket- office ?
Where is the Telegraph Office ?
(Give me) one 1st class ticket to
Nikko.
Please book this laggage for
Nikko.
Where do we change carriages ?
How many hours does it take to
get to Nagoya ?
Please bring the account.
Please give me some water.
Please give me some more.
Please take away these tilings.
How much is it ?
That is too dear.
You must go down a little in
price.
Ichi-en no tsuri wa^ arimasu ha f
Kono zashiki de yoroshii.
Furo ga dekimashita ha f
Dehitara^ shirashite hudusai,
Ybshohu ga dehimasu ha f
Mifiete hudaaaL
Kono hen toa, ha ga imasu ha f
Nedai wa arimasumai^ — ne t
Shihi-huton wOj motto hiite huda-
sai.
Myonichi toa^ ichi-han-hisha de
ihimasu.
Ichi-banhisha wa^ nan-ji desu f
Hayahu ohoshite htcdasai.
Ma ni aimasu ha f
Rampu wa^ irimasen.
jRosohu wo^ motte hite hudasai.
Benjo loa, dochira desu t
Chotto annai shite hiukbsai,
Kippu wo uru tohoro wa^ doho
desu ha f
Denshin-hyohu wa^ dochira desu
ha f
Kihkb made, jotb ichi-mai.
Kore dahe no nimotsu wo^ Nihho
mxide.
Doho no ^^ station" de nori-hae-
masu ha f
Nagoya made^ nan-Ji-han hahari-
masuf
Doha^ hanjo-gahi vx>.
Mizu wo ippai (motte hite huda-
sai).
Motto hudasai.
Kore wo sagete hudasai.
Ikwra desu ?
Sore wa tahai,
Suhoshi 0 maJce nasai.
20. — The Shinto Religion.
Thb Japanese have two religions, Siiintd and Biiddiiism — the former
indigenous, the latter imported from India vi& China and Korea ; but
it must not be supposeil that the nation is therefore divided into two
distinct sections, each professing to observe one of tiiese exclusively.
On the contrary, the two are so thoroughly interfused in practice, that
22 Introduction : — The Shinto Religion,
the n amber of pare Shintdists and pure Buddhists must be extreir
sma]l. The only exception is the province of Satsuma, from wl
the Buddhist priesthood has been excluded ever since some of tl
number betrayed the local chieftain into the hands of Hideyo
Every Japanese from his birth is placed by his parents under the ]
tection of. some Shinto deity, whose foster-child he becomes, w
the funeral rites are conducted, with few exceptions, according to
ceremonial of the Buddhist sect to which his family belongs. I
only in recent years that burial according to the ancient ritual of
Shintoists has been revived, after an almost total disuse during sc
twelve centuries. This apparently anomalous condition of things ii
be explained by the fact that the Shinto religion demands little m
of its adherents than a visit to the local temple on the occasion of
annual festival, and does not profess to teach any theory of the dest
of man, or of moral duty, thus leaving the greater part of the fi
free to the priests of Buddha, with their apparatus of theologi
dogma aided by a splendid ritual and gorgeous decorations. Mu
tudinous as are its own deities, Buddiiism found no difficulty
receiving those of the indigenous belief into its pantheon, this cath
city having been previously displayed with regard to Hindoo deil
and other mythological personalities. In most cases it was pretenc
that the native gods were merely avatars of some Indian deity ; e
thus it was possible for those who became converts to the forei
doctrine to continue to believe in and offer up prayers to their anci
gods as before.
Shinto is a compound of ancestor-worship and nature-worship,
has gods and goddesses of the wind, the ocean, fire, food, and pei
lence, of mountains and rivers, of certain special mountains, cerfc
rivers, certain trees, certain temples, — eight hundred myriads of deit
in all. Chief among these is Ama-terasu, the radiant Goddess of 1
Sun, born from the left eye of Izanagi, the Creator of Japan, wh
from his right eye was produced the God of the Moon, and from 1
nose the violent God Susa-no-o, who subjected his sister to vario
indignities and was chastised accordingly. The Sun-Goddess was t
ancestress of the line of heaven-descended Mikados, who have reign
in unbroken succession from the beginning of the world, and s
themselves living deities. Hence the Sun-Goddess is honoured abo
all the rest, her shrine at Ise being the Mecca of Japan. Other shrin
hold other gods, the deified ghosts of princes and heroes of eld, sor
commanding a wide popularity, others known only to narrow loc
fame, most of them tended by hereditary families of priests believ
to be lineal descendants either of the god himself or of his chi
servant. From time to time new names are added to the pantheo
The present reign has witnessed several instances of such apotheos
Indeed, the present reign stands out as a season of special offici
favour to the Shinto cult, numbers of temples that had for centuri
been devoted to a hybrid between Shinto and Buddhism, known
Ryobu'Shinto^ having been, as it is termed, " purified " from Buddhi
"contamination," and handed over to the exclusive keeping of tl
Shintoists. This so-called purification has consisted in the effacing i
the Buddhist architectural and other artistic embellishments whi(
^'>5^
^<^
The Shinto Religion. 23
made the temples most worth visiting, and not infrequently in the
destruction of the entire edifice.
Shinto has ecarcely any regular services in which the people take
part, and its priests (kannushi) are not distinguishable by their ap-
pearance from ordinary laymen. Only when engaged in offering the
morning and evening sacrifices do they wear a peculiar dress of their
own. This consists of a long loose gown with wide sleeves, fastened
at the waist with a girdle, and sometimes a black cap bound round the
bead with a broad white fillet. The priests are not bound by any
vows of celibacy, and are free to adopt another career whenever they
choose. At some temples young girls fill the office of priestesses;
but their duties do not extend beyond the performance of the panto-
mimic dances known as hagyra^ and assistance in the presentation of the
daily offerings. They likewise are under no vows, and marry as a
matter of course. The services consist in the presentation of offerings
of rice, fish, fruits, vegetables, the flesh of game, animals, and rice-
beer, and in the recital of certain formal addresses, partly laudatory
and partly in the nature of petitions. The style of composition em-
ployed is that of a very remote period, and would not be comprehended
by the common people, even if the latter were in the habit of taking
any part in the ritual. With moral teaching, Shinto does not profess to
concern itself. ' Follow your natural impulses, and obey the Mikado's
decrees :' such is the sum of its theory of human duty. The sermon
forms no part of its institutions, nor are the rewards and punishments
of a future life used as incentives to right conduct. The continued
existence of the dead is believed in, but whether it is a condition of joy
or pain is nowhere revealed.
Shinto is a Chinese word, meaning the * Way of the Gods,' and was
first adopted after the introduction of Buddhism to distinguish the
native beliefs and practices from those of the foreign religion.
The architecture of Shinto temples is extremely simple, and the
material used is plain white wood with a thatch of chamaBcyparis
bark. The annexed plan of the Great Temple of Izumo {Izumo no
0-yaiihiro\ taken from a native drawing sold to pilgrims, and printed
on Japanese paper (mino-gami) after the usual fashion of such me-
mentos, will serve to exemplify this style of architecture. Few Shinto
temples, however, are quite so elaborate as this, the second holiest in
the Empire. We find then : —
1. The Main Shrine (honsha or konden)^ which is divided into two
chambers. The rear chamber contains the emblem of the god (mi-
iama'Shiro) — a mirror, a sword, a curious stone, or some other object
— and is always kept closed, while in the antechamber stands a wand
from which depend strips of white paper intended to represent the
cloth offerings of ancient times. The mirror which is seen in the
front of not a few temples was borrowed from the Shingon sect of
Buddhists, and has nothing to do with the Shinto Sun-Goddess, as is
often supposed.
2. An Oratory (haiden) in front of the main building, with which
it is sometimes, but not in the case of the Izumo temple, connected
by
3. A Corridor or Gallery (ai-no-ma). A gong often hangs over
24 Introdtu:tion : — Japanese Buddhism^
the entrance of the Oratory, for the worshipper to attract the attention
of the god, and beneath stands a large box to receive contribations.
4. A Cistern (mitarashi) at which to wasli the hands before prayer.
5. A low Wall, or rather Fence (tama-gakij lit. jewel hedge), en-
closing the chief temple buildings.
6. A second Enclosing Fence, often made of boards and therefore
termed ita-gakL
7. A peculiar Gateway (Jtorii) at the entrance to the grounds. Some-
times there are several of these gateways. Their origm and significa-
tion are alike unknown.
8. A Temple Office (shamusho)^ where the business of the temple is
transacted, and where some of the priests often reside.
9. Secondary Slirines (sessha or maasha) scattered about the grounds,
and dedicated not to the deity worshipped at the main shrine, but to
other members of the crowded pantheon.
10. A Library (bunko). This item is generally absent.
11. A Treasure-house (hdzo),
12. One or more Places for Offerings (shinaenjo).
13. A Gallery (ktoairo).
14. A Dancing-stage {bugaku-dai). A more usual form of this is
the kagura-dOf or stage for the performance of the kagura, an ancient
symbolic dance.
15. A Stable in which is kept the Sacred Horse (jimme), usually
an albino animal.
16. An Assembly Hall. This is generally missing.
17. Gates.
Frequently there is some object of minor sanctity, such as a holy
well, a curious tree, the image of the bull on which the god Tenjin
rode, etc.
The curiously projecting ends of the rafters on the roof of the
honsha are termed chigu . The cigar-shaped logs are termed hatsuo-
gu Both these ornaments are derived from the architecture of the
primitive Japanese hut, the katsuogi having formerly served to keep
in place the tw^o trunks forming the ridge of the roof.
Shinto temples built during the period of the predominance of
Buddhism often show such traces of Buddhist influence as the pagoda,
the handsome mmmon^ or outer gate, and elaborate carvings utterly
repugnant to the Shinto purists of the present century. The two
figures with bows and arrows, seated in niclies right and left of the
gate to keep guard over the approach to the temple, are called Zuijin,
or "attendants," more popularly Ya-daijin^ or "ministers with arrows."
The stone figures of dogs — or lions as some suppose them to be —
which are often found in the temple grounds, are called Ama-inu and
Koma-inu, lit. " the heavenly dog " and " the Korean dog." They are
credited with the power of driving off demons.
21. — Japanese Buddhism.
Buddhism, in its Chinese form, first entered Japan via Korea in the
6th century of the Christian era, the first Japanese pagoda having been
erected about A.D. 584 by one Soga-no-Iname. The Constantine of
Japanese Buddhism. 25
Japanese Buddhism was Shotoka Taislii) prince regent under the Em-
press Suiko (A.D. 593-621), from whose time many of the most
celebrated temples date. Tiience for ward, though Shinto was never
entirely suppressed, Buddhism became for centuries the favourite
national religion, appealing as it did to the deepest instincts of the
human heart, both by its doctrine and by it§ ritual, in a way which
Shinto could never emulate. Buddhism was adopted by the very
Mikudos, descendants of the Shinto Goddess of the Sun. During the
6th, 7th, and 8th centuries, Korean and Chinese monks and nuns
visited Japan for purposes of proselytism, much as Christian mission-
aries visit it to-day. From the 8th century onwards, it became more
usual for the Japanese monks to visit China to study the doctrines of
the best-accredited teachers at the fountain-head. From these histori-
cal circumstances results the general adhesion of the Japanese Bud-
dhists to the Chinese, Northern, or " Greater Vehicle *' school of that
religion. It must not be supposed, however, that all Japanese Bud-
dhists agree among themselves.^ Buddhism was already over a thousand
years old when introduced into this archipelago, and Chinese Buddhism,
in particular, was split into numerous sects and sub-sects, whose quar-
rels took new root on Japanese soil. Some of the Ciiinese sects of that
early day still survive. Such are the Tendai and the Shingon, Others,
notably the Nichiren and Shin sects, are later Japanese developments.
The following are the chief sects existing at the present day : —
Tendai (3 sub-sects).
Shingon (2 sub-sects).
Jodo (3 sub- sects).
CRinzai (9 sub-sects),
^n, divided into < Soto.
( Obaku,
Shin, MontOy or Ihko (10 sub-sects).
Nichiren or Hokke (7 sub-sects).
Ji, %
Yuzu Nemhutsu.
The points in dispute between the various sects and sub-sects are
highly metaphysical and technical — so much so that Mr. Satow, speak-
ing of tlie Shingon sect, asserts that its " whole doctrine is extremely
difficult to compreiiend, and more difficult to put into intelligible
language." Of another sect he tells us that its *Miighest truths are
considered to be incomprehensible, except to those who have attained
toBuddhaship."®
Under these circumstances, the general reader will perhaps do best
simply to fix in his mind the following few cardinal facts : — that
* The following may serve as a specimen of the difficulties to be encountered in this
study :—** The doctrine of the sect is compared to a piece of cloth, in which the teach-
ing 6t Shaka is the warp, and the interpretation or private judgment of the individual,
corrected by the opinion of other monks, is the woof. It is held that there is a kind
of intuition or perception of truth, called 8hin-gy6 suggested by the words of scripture,
but transcending them in certainty. This is said to to in harmony with the thought
of Shaka. The entirety of doctrine, however, results in one central truth, namely
that Nirvftna is the final result of existence, a state in which the thinking substance,
while remaining individual, is unaffected by anything external, and is consequently
devoid of feeling, thought, or passion. To this the name of Mu-i (Asamskrita) is
given, signifying absolute, unconditioned existence. When this is spoken of as an*
r
26 Introdiuition : — Japanese Buddhism.
Buddhism arose in India, some say in the 7th, others in the 11
century before Christ ; that its founder was the Buddha Shaka Mu
a prince of the blood royal, who, disenchanted first of worldly pleasu
and then of the austerities which he practised for long years in i
Himalayan wilderness under the guidance of the most self-denyi
anchorites of his time, at length felt dawn on his mind the truth tl
all happiness and salvation come from within,-~come from the reoog^i
tion of the impermanence of all phenomena, from the extinction
desire, which is at the root of life, life itself being at the root of i:
happiness and imperfection. Asceticism still reigned supreme ; but
was asceticism rather of the mind than of outward observances, ai
its ultimate object was absorption into Nirv&na, which some interpi
to mean annihilation, while others describe it as a state in which t
thinking substance, after numerous transmigrations and progressi
sanctification, attains to perfect beatitude in serene tranquillity. Pra
tical Buddhism, both in China and Japan, has been unable to mainta
itself at these philosophic heights, and by the aid of the doctrine of hobe
or " pious frauds," the priesthood has played into the hands of popuL
superstition. Here as elsewhere there have been evolved charm
amulets, pilgrimages, and gorgeous temple services, in which peop
worship not only the Buddha who was himself an agnostic, but h
disciples and even such abstractions as Amida, which are mistaken f(
actual divine personages.
Annexed is the plan of the temple of Hommonji at Ikegami nes
Tokyo, which may be regarded as fairly typical of Japanese Buddhif
architecture. The roofing of these temples is generally of tiles, f ormin
a contrast to the primitive thatch of their Shinto rivals. The chie
features are as follows :
1. The SamTnoTij or two-storied Qate, at the entrance to the tempi
grounds.
2. The Ema-ddy or Ex-voto Hall, also sometimes called Gahu-do.
3. The Shdro, or Belfry. #
4. The Hondo^ or Main Temple.
5. The Soshi-ddy or Founder's Hall, dedicated to Nichiren, th
founder of the sect to which this temple belongs.
6. The Taho-tOy or Pagoda-shaped Reliquary, containing portions o
Nichiren's body.
7. The RinzOy or Revolving Library, containing a complete copy c
the Buddhist canon.
8. The Shoiuy also called Zashikiy or Priests* Apartments, includin,
nihilation, it is the annihilation of conditions, not of the snbstanoe, that is mean
Pushed to its logical result, this would appear to the ignorant (i.e., the unregeneratf
to amount to the same thing as non-existence ; but here we are encountered l^ on
of those mysteries which lie at the foundation of all religious beUef , and which mni
be accepted without questioning, if there is to be any spiritual religion at all. .
follower of Herbert Spencer would probably object that this is an ' ill^timate syn
bolical conception.'
" Ignorant and obtuse minds are to be taught by kohent that is by the presentatio
of truth under a form suited to their capacity. For superior intellects tihaka, auittin
the symbolic teaching appropriate to the vernacular understanding, revealed tb
truth in itself. Whoever can apprehend the Ten Abstract Truths in their prpp<
order may, after four successive births, attain to perfect Buddhaship, while the ii
f erior intelligence can onlv arrive at that condition after 100 Kalptu, or periods of tin
ferazuMsending calculation/'— (Satow.)
1/ ^^ '>'v'i^\-i^
LfciasTT. „',««■
List of Gods and Goddesses, 27
9. The Kyaku-den^ or Reception Rooms.
10.. The Hozo^ or Treasure-house.
11. The Daidokoro, or Kitchen.
12. The Chozu-bachif or Cistern for washing the hands before
wornhip.
13. The Drum-tower (Koi^o).
14. The Pagoda.
15. Stone Lanterns presented as offerings.
All temples do not possess a Founder's Hall in addition to the Main
Temple, and very few possess a Tdhd-to or a Rimo. In the temples of
the Monto or Hongwanji sect, wliich always comprise two cliief edifices,
the larger of the two unites in itself the functions of Main Temple and
Founder's Hall, while the lesser, with which it is connected by a
gallery, is sometimes specially dedicated to Amida^ the deity chiefly
worshipped by this sect, and is sometimes used for preaching sermons
in, whence the name of Jiki-doj or Refectory, alluding to the fact that
sermons are food for the soul.
22. — List op Gods and Goddesses.
The following are the most popular deities, Buddhist and Shinto. We
place them together in one list, because all through Japanese history
there has been not a little confusion between the two religions : —
Aizen My do, a deity represented with a fierce expression, a flaming
halo, three eyes, and six arms. Nevertheless he is popularly looked on
as the god of love. Andersoti describes him as ^* a transformation of
AtchalS the Insatiable."
Ama-terasu^ lit. "the Heaven-Shiner," that is, the Sun-Goddess
Born from the left eye of the Creator Izanagi, when the latter was
performing his ablutions on returning from a visit to his dead wife
Izanami in Hades, the Sun-Goddess was herself the ancestress of the
luiperial Family of Japan. The most striking episode in her legend
is that in whicli she js insulted by her brother Susa-no-o, and retires in
high dudgeon to a cavern, thus plunging the wiiole world in darkness.
All the other gods and goddesses assemble at the cavern's mouth with
music and dancing. At length curiosity lures her to the door, and she
is finally enticed out by the sight of her own fair image in a mirror,
which one of the gods pushes forward towards her. The origin of the
sacred dances called kagura is traced to this incident by the native
literati. Other names under which the Sun-Goddess is known are
Shimmei and Ten Shoko Daijin,
Amida (Sanskrit, Amitdbha), a powerful deity dwelling in a lovely
paradise to the West. Originally Amida was an abstraction, the ideal
of boundless light. His image may be recognised by the halo {goko)
surrounding not only the head but the entire body, and by the liands
lying on the lap, with the thumbs placed end to end. The spot on the
forehead is emblematical of wisdom. The great image (Daihutsu) at
Eamakura represents this deity.
28 Introduction : — List of Gods and Goddesses.
Anan (Sanskrit, Anandu)^ one of Buddlia^R cousins nnH earliest con-
verts. He is often called Tamon (^K)i lit. " hearing mucli," on account
of liis extensive knowledge and wonderful memory.
Bknten, or Bbnzaiten, the Goddess of Luck, Eloquence, and
Fertilit}'. She is often represented riding on a serpent or dragon.
BiNZDRU, originally one of the Sixteen Kakan^ was expelled from
their number for having violated his vow of chastity by remarking
upon the beuuty of a female, whence the ukuhI situation of his image
outside the chancel. It is also said that Buddha conferred on him the
power to cure all human ills. For this reason, believers rub the imnge
of Binzuru on whatever part may in their own bodies be causing them
pain, and then rub themselves in the hope of obtaining relief. Binzuru
is a highly popular object of worship with the lower classes, and his
image is often adorned by some of his devotees with a red or yellow
cotton hood, a bib, and mittens.
BiSHAMON (Sanskrit, Vdisramana)^ explained in Eitel's " Hand-
book of Chinese Buddhism" as the God of Wealth, has been adopted
by the Japanese as one of their Seven Gods of Luck with the special
characteristic of impersonating war. Hence he is represented as clad
in armour and bearing a spear, as well as a toy pagoda.
BoNTBN, Brahma.
BosATSU (Sanskrit Bddhisattvd)^ the general title of a large class of
Buddhist saints, who have only to pass through one more human exist-
ence before attaining to Buddhahood.
Daikokd, the God of Wealth, may be known by his rice-bales.
Dainichi Nyorai (Sanskrit, Vdirdtchana Tathdgata), one of the
persons of the Triratna, or Buddhist Trinity, the personification of
wisdom and of absolute purity. He is popularly confounded with
Jizo, the images of the two being difficult to distinguish.
DosojiN, the God of Roads.
Ebisu, one of the Gods of Luck, is the patron of honest labour. He
bears in his hand a ^i-fish.
Emma-0 (Sanskrit, Ydma-rdja)^ the regent of the Buddhist hells.
He may be known by his cap resembling a judge's beret, and by the
huge mace in his right hand. Before him often nit two uiyrmidons,
one of whom holds a pen to write down the sins of human beings, while
the other reads out the list of their offences from a scroll.
FuDo (Sanskrit, Achald), Much obscurity hangs over the origin and
attributes of this popular divinity. According to Sir Monier Williams,
Achala, which means " immovable *' {Fu-do^ 7f9i, translates this mean-
ing exactly), is a name of the Brahminical God Siva and of the first of
the nine deified persons called *' white Balas" among the Jainas.
Satow says : — " Fudo (Akshara) is identified with Dainichi (Vdir6A?una),
the God of Wisdom, which quality is symbolised by the fiames which
surround him: it is a common error to suppose that he is the God of
Fire. According to the popular view, the sharp sword which he grasps
in the right hand is to frighten evil-doers, while in his left hand he
holds a rope to bind them with."
Fug EN (Sanskrit, SanfianUihhadra) is the special divine patron of
those who practise the Hokkezammai^ a species of ecstatic meditation.
His image is generally seated on the left hand of Shaka.
List of Gods and Goddesses, 29
FuKUROKUJU, one of the Gods of Luck, is distingnished by a
preternatural ly long head, and typifies longevity and wisdom.
Qo-CHI Nyorai, the Fi^e Buildhas of contemplation or of wisdom,
namely, Yakuslii, Talio, Dainichi, Asliuku, and Shaka. But some
authorities make a different enumeration.
GoNGKN. This is not the name of any special divinity, but a general
term used in Ryobu-Shinto (see p. 22) to denote such Shinto gods as are
considered to be " temporary manifestations," that is, incarnations of
Buddhas. It is, liowever, applied with special frequency to leyasu, the
deified founder of the Tokugawa dynast}^ of Shoguns, who is the Gongen
8ama^ that is. Lord Gongen par excellence.
Hachiman, the Chinese name under which the Emperor Ojin is
worshipped as the God of War. The Japanese equivalent is Yawata.
HoTKi, one of the Seven Gods of Lack, typifies contentment and
good-nature. He in represented in art with an enormous naked abdomen.
HoToKB, the genera] name of all Buddhas, that is, gods or perfected
saints of popular Buddhisui. The dead are also often spoken of as
hotoke.
Inari, the Goddess of Rice, also called Uga-no-Mitama. The image
of the fox, whicli is always found in temples dedicated to Jnari, seems
to have been first placed there as a tribute to the fear which tliat wily
beast inspires ; but in popular superstition Inari is the fox deity.
Iz&NAOi and IzANAMi, the Creator and Creatress of Japan. The
curious though indelicate legend of their courtsliip, the striking legend
of the descent of Izanagi into Hades to visit Izanami after the latter's
deatii and burial, and the account of Izanagi's histritions will be
found in pp. 18-43 of the translation of the Kqj'iki, forming the Sup-
plement to Vol. X. of the ** Transactions of the Asiatic "Society of Japan."
Jizo (Sanskrit, KshiHgarbha)^ the compassionate Buddhist helper of
those who are in trouble. He is the patron of travellers, of pregnant
women, and of children. His image is often loaded with pebbles, which
eerve in the other world to relieve the labours of infants who have been
robbed of their clothes by the hag named Shozuka no Baha^ and are then
set by her to perform the endless task of piling up stones on the bank of
the Buddhist Styx. Jizo is represented as a shaven priest with a bene-
volent countenance, holding in one hand a jewel, in the other a staff
with metal rings (shahujo). His stone image is found more frequently
than tlrat of any other object of worship througliout the Empire. It
need scarcely be said that the resemhiance in sound between the names
Jiao and Jesus is quite fortuitous.
JuROJi^f, one of the Gods of Luck, often represented as accompanied
by a stag and a crane.
Kami, a general name for all Shinto go<la and goddesses.
Kasho (Sanskrit, Kdsyapa)^ one of Buddha's foremost disciples.
He is said to have swallowed the sun and moon, in consequence whereof
his body became radiant like gold.
KiSHi BoJiN, the Indian goddess Hdritl or Ariti^ was originally a
woman, who, having sworn to devour all the children at R^jagriha, the
metropolis of Buddhism, was reborn as a demon and gave birtli to five
hundred children, one of whom she was bound to devour every day. She
was converted by Bu Idha, ami entered a nunnery. The Japanese
80 Introduction : — List of Gods and Goddesses.
worship her as the protectress of children. She is represented as a
beautiful woman, carrying a child, and with a pomegranate in one
hand. The lanterns and other ornaments of the temples dedicated to
her are marked with the crest of the pomegranate. The ofEeringa
brought to her shrine by bereaved mothers are such as may well toucbi
any heart. They are the dresses, dolls, and other mementos of their
lost darlings.
KoHPiRA (Sanskrit, Kumbhira). Much obscurity shrouds the origin
and nitture of this highly popular divinity. According to some he is a
demon, the crocodile or alligator of tlie Ganges. Others aver that Shaka
Muni (Buddha^ himself became *Hhe boy Kompira,** in order to over*
come the heretics and enemies of religion who pressed upon him one
day as he was preaching in " the Garden of Delight," — the said " boy
Kompira" having a body 1,000 ft. long, provided with 1.000 heads
and 1,000 arms. The mediasval Shintoists identified Kompira with
Susa-no-o, brother of the Japanese Sun-Goddess. More recently it has
been declared, on the part of the Shinto authorities whose cause the
Government espouses in all such disputes, that the Indian Kompira is
none other than Kotohira, a hitherto obscure Japanese god whose name
has a convenient similarity in sound. Consequently the great Buddliist
shrine of Kompira in the island of Siiikoku, and all the other shrines
erected to Kompira throughout the Empire, have been claimed and
taken over as Shinto property.
KosHiN, a deification of that day of the month which corresponds to
the 57th term of the Chinese sexagesimal circle, called in Japanese Ka-
nO'S saru. This being the day of the monkey, it is represented by three
monkeys (sam biki-zaru) called respectively, by a play upon words,
mi-zarUy kika-earti, and itoa-zaru^ that is, " the blind monkey," " the
deaf monkey," and ** the dumb monkey." Stone slabs with these three
monkeys in relief are among the most usual objects of devotion met
with on the roadside in the rural districts of Japan, the idea being that
this curious trinity will neither see, hear, nor speak any evil.
KwANNoN (Sanskrit, Avaldkitisvara)^ the Goddess of Mercy, who
contemplates the world and listens to the prayers of the unhappy.
According to another but less popular opinion, Kwannon belongs to the
male sfix. Kwannon is represented under varying forms — many-heade<l,
headed like a horse, thousand-handed. The two figures often represented
on either side of her are Fudo and Aizen Myo-o. With reference to
the images of Kwannon, it should be stated that tlie so-called Chonsand-
Handed Kwannon has in reality but forty hands which hold out a
number of Buddhist emblems, such as the lotus-flower, the wheel of the
law, the sun and moon, a skull, a pagoda^ and an axe — this last serving
to typify the cutting off of all worldly cares. A pair of hands folded
on the image's lap holds the bowl of the mendicant priest. The Horse-
Headed Kwannon has three faces and four pairs of arms, a horse's
head being carved above the forehead of the central face. One of the
four pairs of arms is clasped before the breast in the attitude
called renge no in^ emblematical of the lotus-flower. Another pair
holds the axe and wheel. Yet another pair grasps two forms of the
tokko (Sanskrit, vdjra)^ a sceptre or club with which the foes of the
Buddliist faith are to be crushed ; while of the fourth pair of hands,
List of Gods and Goddesses* 81
tlie left holds a cord wherewith to bind the wicked, and the right is
stretclied out open to indicate ahnsgiving. A title often applied to
Kwannon is Nyo-i-rin^ properly the name of a gem which is supposed
to enable its possessor to gratify all his desires, and which may be
approximately rendered by the adjective " omnipotent."
Marishitbn (Sanskrit, Marichi)^ the personification of light in
tlie BrahminicMl theology ; also a name of Krishna. In Chinese and
Japanese Buddhism, Marishiten is considered to be the Queen of
Heaven, and is believed by some to have her residence in a star
forming part of the constellation of the Great Bear. She is represented
with eight arms, two of which hold up emblems of the sun and moon.
Maya Bunin, the mother of Buddha.
Mid A, see Amida.
MiKoTO, a title applied to Shinto deities. It is generally translated
Augiistness.
MiROKU (Sanskrit, Mditi^eya)^ Buddha's successor — the Buddhist Mes-
siah, whose advent is expected to take place 5,000 years after Buddha's
entry into Nirvlina.
MoNJU (Sanskrit, Manjusri), the apotheosis of transcendental wisdom.
His image is nsunlly seated on the right hand of Shaka.
Ni-6, lit. " the Two D^va Kings," Indra and Brahma, who keep
guard at the outer gate of temples to scare away the demons. Each
bears in his hand the tokko (Sanskrit, vdjra), an ornament originally
designed to represent a diamond club, and now used by priests and
exorcists as a religious sceptre symbolising the irresistible power of
prayer, meditation, and incantation. The figures of the Ni-6 are of
gigantic size and terrific appearance, and are often bespattered with
little pellets of paper aimed at them by devotees who think thus to
secure the accomplishment of some desire on which they have set their
hearts.
Nyorai (Sanskrit, Tathdgata)^ an honorific title app'ied to all
Buddhas. It is compounded of Chinese nyo (in)i ** like," and rai (^),
** to come," the idea being that a Buddha is one whose coming ami
going are in accordance with the action of his predecessors.
Onamdji, or Okuni-nushi, the aboriginal deity of Izumo, who re-
signed his throne in favour of the Mikado's ancestors when tliey came
down from heaven to Japan. He is also worshipped under the titles
of Sanm and Hie.
Rakan (Sanskrit, Arhdn^ or Arhat)^ properly the perfected Arya or
" holy man," but popularly used to designate not only the perfected
8;iint, but all Buddha's disciples, more especially his ^* Five Hundred
Disciples" (Go- hyaku Rakan) and his "Sixteen Disciples" {Juroku
Rakan). Few art-motives are more popular with Japanese painters
and sculptors. The holy men are represented in various attitudes, but
mostly very thin and scantily clad.
Senoen, the Goddess of Mount Fuji. She is also called Asama or
Ko-no-Hana-Saku-ya-Hiine, that is, " the Princess who makes the Blos-
soms of the Trees to Flower."
Shaka Muni, the Japanese pronunciation of S'dkya Muniy the name
of the founder of Buddhism, wlio was also called Gautama and is gene-
rally spukeu of by Europeans as " Buddha," though it would be more
^ I
82 Introduction : — LiU of Gods and Goddesses,
correct to gay " the Buddha." In his youth he was called Shitta Taislii
(Sanskrit, Siddhdrtha), His birth is asually placed by the Chinese anci
Japanese in the year 1027 B.C., but the date accepted by European
-flcholars is 653 B.C. The most accessible account of Buddha's life and
doctrine is that given by Professor Rhys Davids in his little work
entitled "Buddhism," published by the Society for Promoting ChriHtian
Knowledge. The entombment of Buddha — all creation standing weep-
ing around — is a favourite subject of Japanese art. Such pictures are
called Nehamd, that is, " representations of the entry into Nirv&na."
The birth of Buddha (tanjo Shaha) is also often represented, he then
appearing as a niked infant with his right hand pointing up and his
left hand down, to indicate the power which he exercises over heaven
and earth.
Sharihotsu (Sanskrit, S'driputtra)^ the wisest of Buddha's ten chief
disciples.
Shiohi Fukujin, the Seven Gods of Luck, namely Benten, Bishamon^
Daikoku, Ebisu, Fukurokuju, Hotei and Jurojin.
Shi-Tenno, the Four Deva Kings, who guard the world against the
attacks of demons. Their images differ from those of the Ni-o by hold-
ing weapons in their hands and generally trampling demons under foot.
Moreover they are placed, not at the outer gate of temples, but at
an inner one.
Shozuka no Baba. See Jizo. _
SuKUNA-BiKONA, a microscopic god who aided Onamuji to establish
his rule over the land of Izuiuo before the descent to earth of the an-
cestors of the Mikados.
SUvSA-NO-o, lit. *' the Impetuous Male." The name of this deit}- is
justified by the violent conduct which' he exhibited towards his sister,
the Sun-Goddess Ama-terasu, whom he iilarmed so terril)Iy by his mad
freaks that she retired into a cavern. Born from the nose of the
Creator Izanagi, Susa-no-o is considered by some to be the God of the
Sea, b}^ others the God of the Moon. He was the ancestor of the gods
or monarchs of the province of Izuino, who finally renounced tiieir
claims to sovereignty over an}' part of Japan in favour of tlie descen-
dants of the Sun-Goddess. Siisa-no-o is also stvled Gozu Tenno, ** the
Ox-headed Emperor," — a name apparently derived from that of a cer-
tain mountain in Korea where he is supposed to have been worshipped.
The temples dedicated to Snsa no-o are called Gion or Yasakn. The
former are Buddhist or Ryobu-Shinto ; the latter are pure Shinto
shrines.
Taishaku, the Brahminical god Indra.
Tamon, see Anan.
Tenjin is the name under which is apotheosised the great minister
and scholar Sngawara-no-Michizane, who, having fallen a victim to
calunmy in A.D. 901, was degraded to the post of Vice-President of
the Dazaifu or Governor-Generalship of the island of Kyushu, at that
time a usual form of banisiiment for illustrious criminals. He died
in exile A.D. 903, his death being followed by many portents and dis-
asters to his enemies. He is worshipped as the God of Calligraphy,
other names for him being Kan Shojo and Temman«;u. He is repre-
sented in the robes of an ancient court noble, and the temples dedicated
Christian Mission Stations in Japan. 83
to him bear in several places his crest of six stars. A recumbent
image of a cow frequently adorns the temple grounds, in allusion to
tlie fact that Michizane used to ride about on a cow in the land of
liis exile. A plum-tree is also often planted near the temple, because
that was his favourite tree. Indeed, tradition says that the most beauti-
ful plum-tree in his garden at Kyoto flew after him through the air to
Dazaifu.
ToSHoGu, the name under which the great Shogun Teyasu, also called
Gongen Sama, is worshipped. It signifies " the Temple (or Prince)'
Illaiuinating tiie East," in allusion to the fact that leyaeu's glory centred
in Eastern Japan.
ToYO-UKE-BiMK, also Called Uke-moohi-no-Kami, the Shinto Goddess of
Food. The Nihongi^ one of the two principal sources of Japanese
mythology and early history, says that the Sun-Goddess sent the Moon-
God down from heaven to visit Uke-mochi-no-Kami, who, turning her
face successively towards the earth, the sea, and the mountains, produced
from her mouth rice, fish, and game, which she served 'up to him at a
banqnet. The Moon -God took offence at her feeding him with unclean
viauils, and drawing his sword, cut off her head. On his reporting this
act to the Sun-Goddess, the latter was very angry, and secluded herself
from him for the space of a day and night. From the body of the
murdered earth sprang cattle and horses, millet, silkworms, rice, barley^
and be?ms, which the Sun-Goddess decreed should thenceforth be the
food of the human race. In the Kojihi version of the myth, it is
Susa-no-o who slays the Goddess of Food, and there are other differences
of detail.
Yakushi Nyorai (Sanskrit, BMishajyaguru), lit. *the Healing
Buddha.' His name is explained by reference to a prayer, in which he
is called upon to heal in the next life the miserable condition of man's
present existence.
23. — Christian Mission Stations in Japan.
The Roman Catholic Mission in Japan dates from the time of Saint
Francis Xavier, and though Christianity was sternly repressed during
the 17th and 18th centuries and down to 1873, the flame continued to
smoulder, especially in the island of Kyiishu. The Roman Church now
has Bishops at Tdkyo, Osaka, and Nagasaki, and a total following of
over 40,000.
The labours of the Protestant Missionaries commenced in 1859, and
a network of mission stations now covers the greater portion of the
Empire. Tokyo and the Open Ports are the head-quarters of most of
the denominations, and are, for shortness' sake, not mentioned in the
following list of mission stations, given for the benefit of travellers
interested in mission work.
The United Church of Christ in Japan (Nippon Itchi Kyokwai)^ an
amalgamation of American and Scotch Presbyterian Churches, has the
largest number of members, over 10,000. Stations ; — Hiroshima,
Kanazawa, Kochi, Kyoto, Morioka, Nagoya, Okazaki, Sapporo, Sendai,
Tokusbima, Ueno, Wakayama, Yamaguchi, Yokkaichi.
34 IfitrodiicUon : — Outline of Japanese History,
Tlie Kumi-ai Oiurclies, in co-operation with the American Board's
Mission, over 9,000 memhers. Stations : — Kunianioto, Kyoto, Mae-
bashi, Matsuyaiua, Nagaoka, Okayama, Sendai, Tot tori, Tsu.
The Nippon Set Kokwai^ including tlie niiHHions of tiie Cliurch of
England and of the Protestant Episcopa] Church of America, 4.000.
Stations: — Fukuoka, Gifu, Kumamoto, Kushiro, Maebashi, MalKue,
Nara, Tokushima.
American Methodist Episcopal Churchy over 4,000. Stations: — Fuku-
oka, tiirosaki, Hirosliima, Matsuyauia, Nagoya, Oita. Yonezawa.
Methodist Church of Canada, 1,700. Stations: — Kanazawa, K5fu,
Kumamoto, Nagano, Shizuoka.
American Baptist Missionary Union, over 1,000.' Stations: — Morioka,
Nemuro, Sendai, Shimonoseki, Toyoura.
The above stations are those at wliich foreign missionaries reside.
Native pastors carry on the work at other places. Numerous smaller
denominations, chiefly American, are also represented.
The Orthodox Russian Church has a flourishing mission, whose head-
quarters are at Tokyo.
24. — Outline of Japanese History.
Nothing is known concerning the origin of the Japanese people, or
t]»e period at which they reached their present habitat. The dawn of
trustworthy history in the 5th century after Christ finds the Mika<io8
— Emperors claiming descent from the Sun-Goddess Ama-terasu —
already governing all Japan except the North, which was still occupied
by the Aino aboiigines, and Chinese civilisation beginning to filter into
what had apparently liitherto been a semi-barbarous land. The chief
pioneers of this civilisation were Buddhist priests from Korea. From
that time forward Japanese history consists, broadly speaking, in the
rise of successive great families and chiefs, who, while alwa3's pro-
fessing a nominal respect for the divine authority of the Mikado,
practically usurp his power and are the de facto rulers of the country.
By the end of the 12th century, the old absolutism had been converte<l
into a feudalism of which Yorit.omo, the successful leader of the
Minamoto family or clan, became the acknowledged head under the
title of Shdgvn, which closely corresponds in etymology and in mean-
ing to the Latin Imperator, Thus was inaugurated the dual system of
government which lasted down to the year 1868, — the Mikado supreme
in name, but powerless and dwelling in a gilded captivity at the old
capital Kyoto, the Sho^un with his great feudatories, his armed re-
tainers, and his well-filled exchequer, ruling the whole empire from
his new capital in Eastern Japan — first Kamakura, then Yedo. During
the latter period of the nominal supremacy of the Minamoto family of
Shoguns, the real power was in the hands of their chief retainers, the
Hojo family — the political arrangement thus becoming a triple one.
The rule of the Hojo was rendered memorable by the repulse of the
Mongol fleet sent by Kublai Khan to conquer Japan, nince which time
Japan has never been attacked by any foreign enemy. The Ashikapi
line of Slioguns grasped the power which had fallen from the Hojo*s
hands, and distinguished themselves by their patronage of the arts.
Outline of Japanese History, 85
Tlie second 1m1£ of the 16tli century was a period of anarchy, daring
^vliich two great sohliers of fortune wlio were not Shoguns — Nobunaga
and Hideyoslii— Fuccessively rose to supreme power. Hideyoshi even
went BO far as to conquer Korea and to meditate the conquest of China,
an enterprise whicli was, however, interrupted by his death in A.D.
1598. Tokugnwa leyusu, Hideyoshi's greatest general, tlien succeeded
in making Japtin his own, and founded a dynasty of Shoguns who.
ruleil Japan in profound pence from 1603 to 1868. •Among the means
resorted to for securing tliis end were tlie ejection of tlie Catholic
inissioniiries und the closing of the country to foreign trade. Nagasaki
was the only place in the Empire at which any communication with the
outer world was permitted, no European nation but the Dutch was
allowed to trade there, and even Dutch commerce was restricted within
narrow limits. At last, in 1853, the government of the United States
Meut a fleet uuder the command of Commodore Perry to insist on the
ceHsation of the Japanese policy of isolation. This act of interference
from the outside gave the coup de grdce to the Siio^unate, which had
previounly been weakened by internal discontent. It fell, and in its
fall dragged down the whole fabric of mediaeval Japanese civilisation.
On the one hand, the Mikado was restored to the absolute power which
iiad belonged to his ancestors centuries before. On the other, Euro-
peanism (if one may so phrase it) became supreme in every branch o£
thought and activity. The natural outcome of this has been the Euro-
peanisation of the monarchy itself. Not only has the Court adopted
foreign manners and etiquette. It has granted a Constitution modelled
on that of Prussia; and tlie first Diet, as it is termed, sat from Novem-
ber, 1890 to March, 1891. The session was somewhat stormy.
The following are the chief dates of Japanese historv : —
B.C.
.» Accession of the first Mikado, Jimmu Tennu 660
rs'C ■{ Prince Yamato-take conquers S.W. and E. Japan ... 97-113
^£ I Conquest of Korea by the Empress Jingo 200
iFirst Chinese books brought to Japan 285
Buddhism introduced from Korea 552
Sliotokn Taishi patronises Buddhism 593-621
Government remodelled on Chinese bureaucratic plan 600-800
Chinese calendar introduced 602
Fujiwara family predominant : 670-1050
TIte Court resides at Nara 709-784
First extant Japanese book published (Kojiki) 712
Printing introduced 770
Kyoto made the capital 794
Invention of ffira-gana syllabary , 809
Struggle between the Taira and Minamoto clans 1156-1185
Yoritomo establishes the Shogunate 1192
Hojo family pre<lominant •••• 1205-1333
Repulse of the Mongols 1274-1281
Two rival lines of Mikados, the Northern and Southern
GburU , 1332-1392
86 Introdiiction : — Celebrated Personages,
Asliikaf^a dynasty of Shoguns 13B8-1565
The Portuguese discover Japan 1542
St. Francis Xavier arrives in Japan 1549
First persecution of the Ciiristiuns 1587
Yedo founded by leyasu 1590
Hideyoshi invatfcs Korea 1592-1.598
Battle of Seki-ga-imra 1600
Tokugawa dynasty of Shoguns 1603-1868
Japan closed and Christianity prohibited 1624
The Dutch relegated to Deshima 1639
Kaempfer visits Japan 1690-92
Last eruption of Fuji » 1707
Arrival of Commodore Perry 1853
First treaty signed with the United States 1854
Great earthquake at Yedo 1855
First treaties with European Powers 1857-59
Yokohama opened 1858
First Japanese embassy sent abroad 1860
Bombardment of Shimonoseki 1864
The Shoganate abolished and the Mikado restored to absolute
poNver 1868
Civil war between Imperialists and partisans of the Sliogun 1868-69
The Mikado removes to Yedo (Tokyo) 1869
Abolition of feudal systeni 1871
Tokyo-Yokohama railway opened 1872
Adoption of Gregorian calendar / 1873
Expedition to Formosa 1874
The wearing of swords interdicted 1876
Satsnma rebellion 1877
New Codes published 1880-90
Constitution proclaimed 1889
First Diet met 1890
25. — List of Celebrated Personages.
The following list of celebrated personages referred to in this book,
and likely to be mentioned by guides when explaining objects of histo-
rical or artistic interest, ma}^ be found usefid.
Benkki, or Musashi-bo Benkei, was Yoshit8une*s famous henchman*
How many of Benkei's valorous achievements are historical, it would
be hard to say. According to the orthodox account, he was eight feet
in heiglit, strong as a himdred men, and had even in early years per-
formed so many deeds of violence as to have been nicknamed Oni"
waka, " the Devil Youth." Having attempted to cut down Ynshitsunei
then a mere stripling, on t\\e Gojo Bridge in Kyoto, he found in him
his master in the art of fencing, and was made to sue for quarter. So
great was the veneration thus inspired in his breast, that he thenceforth
attached himself to Yoshitsuno's fortunes and die<l battling in hii
cause. The fight between Yoshitsune nnd Benkei is a favourite subjeol
with the artists of Japan. Another is the subterfuge by which Benkei
made way for hi& muster -and tlieir Utile- band through one of the
Celebrated Pei'sonages,
l»arneT« where at tliat time all travellers were liable to be stopped:'
He pretended that he was a priest sent to collect subscriptions for the
iMiikHn<^ of a new temple, and therefore privileged to travel free,
Tlie .pictures represent him reading out his supposed ecclesiastical
coiiMuission from a scroll to the barrier-keepers, who were too ignorant
of letters to discover the feint. This story is also the subject of a
drauia called Kavjin-cho.
HusON (1716-1783), a highly original and vigorous artist of the
Chinese scliool.
Ck^ Dknsu (second half of 14tli century), the best an<l most,
original painter of the Buddhist school, is termed by Anderson '* the
Fra Angelico of Japan."
Dkngvo Daishi (flourished about A.D. 800) wns the first Buddhist
abbot of Hiei-zan. He made a long sojourn in China for the purpose
of esoteric 8tu<ly, and brought back with hmi the doctrines of the
Tendai sect.
Ex NO Shokaku, a famous Buddhist saint and miracle-worker of the
7th century, and the first human being to ascend Uaku-san, Daiseir,
Tate^'ama, and others of Japan's highest mountains, it being part of his
wiission to bring all such remote and inaccessible places under the
sway of 6u«ldha. Having been slandered as a magician and con-
demned to death, he so fortified himself by the use of mystic signs
and formulae that the sworls of the executioners sent to behead him
Knapped in pieces; but afterwards he flew away through the air, and
was never again seen by mortal eyes.
EsHiN (942-1017), a Buddhist abbot who is famous as a sculptor.
Go-Daigo Tenno (reigned 1319-1839) was a Mikado celebrated for
liis misfortunes. At the beginning of liis reign, the throne and the
nation were alike trampled un<ler foot by the Hojo "llegents" at
Karnakura, and his endeavour to Khake off their domination oidy result-
ed, after nmcli shedding of blood, in his being taken prisoner and
banished to the Oki Islands. When the Hojos fell in 1333 under the
«word of the loyalist warrior Nitta Yoshisada, the Emperor Go-Daigo
was recalled from exile. But the times were not ripe for the abolition
of military rule, nor was Go-Daigo wise in his^ choice of counsellors
after his restoration. Ashikaga Takauji, who had posed as the cham-
pion of Imperial rights, desired nothing so much as to become
Shogun himself, and bribed the Mikado's concubine Kado-ko to
poison her master's nn'nd against those who had served him most
faithfully, and even against his own son, Prince Moriyoshi, who
was declared a rebel, cast into a dungeon at Kamakura, and there
murdered. Go-Daigo , repented of his folly and weakness when
it was too late. Takauji left Kyoto, and the army Sent to
Kmite him received such a crushing defeat tliat Go-Daigo was forced to
f$eek safety in flight. Thereupon Takauji set another Mikado on the
throne. But as Go-Daigo continued to be recognised by many as the
rightful sovereign, the Mikadoate was split into two rival branches,
Called the Southern (legitimate) and the Northern (usurping) Courts.
After sixty years of strife and misery, the Northern Court triumphed
in 1392, the representative of the Southern dynasty handling over to it
the Imperial regalia. Go-Daigo perished at an early period of the
38 Introduction : — Celebrated Personages.
struggle. His Court — i£ we may so call the monntafn fastneRs wliere
he mostly encamped — was at Yosliino, whose position to the South of
Kyoto was the origin of the epithet ** Southern'- applied to it by
liistorians.
Gyooi Bosatsu (670-749), a Korean by birth, and a Buddhint abbot
and saint, is the subject of many artistic fictions. He is credited not
only with the invention of the potter's wheel, which whs certainly used
in Japan before liis time, but with a number of iuiportant wood-
carvings and other works <»f ?irt.
HiDARi JiNGORo (1594-1634), Japan's greatest carver in wood, was
a simple carpenter whose nickname of Hidari arose from his being
left-handed. Among the best known of his works, are 4he carved
gateway of the Nishi HoTigwanji Temple in Kyoto, the ramma^ or
ventilating panels of the principal apartments in the same temple, and
three carvings, — two of elephants after designs by Kano Tan-yu, and
one of a sleeping cat, in tiie mortuary chapel of leyasu at Nikko.
The notice attracted by his labours was so great that tiie architectural
wood-cnrvers, whose artistic efforts had previously been liuiited to the
execution of mechanical designs and conventional flowers, now came
to be regarded as a body distinct froui the carpenters to whom they
littd hitherto been affiliated.
HiDRVOSHi (1536 — 1598), commonly known as the Taiko Hideyoshi —
Uie word Taiko being a title indicative of exalted rank — has sometimes
been called the Napoleon of Japan. Of low birth and so ugly as to
earn the nickname of " Monkey," Hideyoshi worked his way up by
alieer will, hard fighting, and far-sighted ability, to the position of
Nobunaga's most trusty lieutenant ; and when that ruler died in
1582, Hideyoshi, having slain his chief enemies and captured Kyoto,
became practically monarch (»f Japivn witli the title of Uegent {Kv:am-
haku), which till then had never been accorded to any but the highest
nobility. Hideyoshi carried out many wise measures of interna]
policy, such as_financial reform, the improvement of the great citie?
of Kyoto and Osaka, and the encouragement of maritime trade. He
was also more merciful to his foes and rivals than his predecessoi
Nobnnaga had been. His greatest failing was the vulgar ambition oi
the parvenu. His dream was to conquer China and become Emperoi
of the whole East. As a first step towards this, he sent an army acrosf
the straits to Korea undercommand of the celebrated generals Kati
Ktyomasa and Konishi Ynkinaga — the latter a Christian, as were man^
of the soldiers of the expedition. Korea was ruined, and Japan no
wise benefited. Hideyoshi's death resulted in the withdrawal of tin
Japanese troops from the peninsula, and in the speedy overthrow oJ
his own family power which he had hoped to render hereditary.
Iemitsu (1604-1651), the third Sho^un of the Tokugawa dynasty, ia
herited the administrative abiUty of his grandfather leyasu, and devotee
bis peaceful reign to perfecting the system of government establishec
by the latter, including the elaborate system of espionage of whid
early writers on Japan have so much to say. To him is due the rah
according to which all the Daimyos were obliged to resido durinc^ halii
tlie year in Yedo, and to leave their families there as hostages durinj
Hie other half. It was also Iemitsu who suppressed ChristiuniCy ai
Celebrated Personages, 29
<1angerons lo the state, and closed up the country against all foreignem
•except the Dutch and Cliinese, who were permitted to trade at Nagasaki
under Ituniiliating conditions. In fact, it was Jeniitsn who consolidated
what we call " Old Japan." His tomb is at Nikko near that of IeyaFu«
Ieyasu (1542-1616), one of tlie greatest generals and altogether the
|j;reatest ruler that Japan has ever produced, was a Samurai of the
province of Mikawa, and a scion of the great famil}- of Minainoto. fli»
own surname was Tokugawa. Having served under both Nobunaga
nnd the Taiko Hideyoshi, he profited b}^ the hitter's death in 1598 to
f uake war on his infant son Hideyori. seized the great castle of Osaka,
burnt the Taiko's celebrated palace of Momoyama at Fushimi, and
iinally in the year 1600 defeated all his eneinjes at the battle of Seki-ga-
hara, a small village in the province of Omi, now a station on the
Tokaido Railway. Meanwhile he had, in 1590, moved his own head-
•quarters from Shizuoka, where they had been for many years, to Yedo^
then an unimportant fishing-village, which he chose on account of the
strategic advantages of its position. In 1603 he obtained from thefaineant
Court of Kyoto the title of Shu;^un, which was borne by his descendants
■during two and a half centuries of unbroken peace, till Commodore
Perry's arrival in 1853 led to the revolution of 1868, and to the break-
•up of Japanese feudalism and dualism. The statecraft which caused
-no long a reign of peace under one dj'iiasty to take tlie place of the
-secular struggles between i^etty warring chieftains, consisted greatly in
jn balance of power whereby the rivalries of the greater Daimyos were
played off against each other, and in the annexation to the Shogun'»
own domain or to those of his ne.irest relatives of large strips of
territor}' in all portions of the Empire. These served as coignes of
vantage, whence in those days of difficult communication, the actions
•of eacli Daimyo could more easily be controlled. Ieyasu held in his
own grasp all the military resources of tliQ country, and forced all tlie
Daimyos to regard themselves as his feudatories. He likewise had the
•Courtof Kyoto strictly guarded — nominally as a protection for the sacred
Mikado against rebel foes, but in reality to prevent His Majesty, who
«till retained the semblance of Imperial power, from endeavouring to
«hake off the fetters which made him a passive instrument in the
tShogun's hands. Ieyasu furthermore built powerful strongholds, made
new highways, established a system of posts, and promulga'ted laws,
which — if we accept the theory of paternal government alike in politics
and in the family — were very wise, an^l which were in any case far in
advance of anything that Japan had known before. When the govern-
aneut had been established on a iirm footing in 1605, Ieyasu followed
the usual Japanese plan of abdicating in favour of his son. He
retired to Shizuoka, and spent the evening of his life in encouraging"
the renahsance of Japanese literature which had just begun. To his
munificence is owing the ecUtlo imnceps ot many an important work.
Ieyasu was first buried at Kuno-zan, not far from Shizuoka, in a beautiful
•shrine on a castle-like eminence overlooking the sea. In the year 1617,
his remains were removed to their present still grander resting-place at
Nikko. The dynasty of Shoguns founded by Ieyasu is called the Toku-
.gawa dj'nasty, from the surname of the family.
IWASA Matahei (16th century) was the originator of the Vhlya^
40 Introducjtion : — Celebrated Personages,
e-Bya^ or " popular school," of Japanese art, which, ubaruloning the-
prescribed subjects and conveiuioiuil routine of the clussiciii schoola,
undertook to paint life as it is.
JiMMU TennC), that is, the Emperor Jiinnui, is accounted by thfr
Japanese annalists the first human sovereij^n of their country, whicli
liad till tlien been ruled over bv tlie Shinto ffotls. Jimmu Tenno was-
liimself descended from the Sun-Goddess Ania-terasu, and consequently
semi-divine. The orthodox account of his career is, that starting? from
Kyushu in the extreme West of Japan, he rowed up the Inland Sea
with a band of devoted warriors, subduing the aborigines as he went
along, in virtue of the commission which he had received from heaven^
After much fighting in what are now the provinces of Bizen and
Yamato, and many miraculous occurrences, he died at the age of on&
hundred and thirty-seven, and was buried at Kaslnwabara in Vamato,.
where his capital ha<l been established after the conquest. The date
assigned for his accession is the 11th February, OGO B.C., the anniver-
sary of which day has been made a public holiday during the present
reign, and was chosen for the promulgation of the new Constitution,
evidently with the desire to strengthen the popular belief in the authen-
ticity and continuity of Japanese history. Jimmu Tenno and his suc-
cessors during many centuries have, however, been condenuied as myths
by competent European investigators, though it is allowed that the-
Jimmu legend may possibly be an echo of some actual invasion of cen-
tral Japan b}' Western tribes of adventurers in very early days.
Jingo Kogo, that is the Empress Jingo, ruled over Japan, according-
to the native annalists, from A.D. 201 to 269, when she died at the age
of one hundred; but Aston, the greatest authority on early Japanese
history, while not <lenying the existence of this Japanese Semiramis^
relegates most of her great deeds to the realm of fable. The chief
legend connected with her is that of her conquest of Korea, to which
country she crossed over with a gallant fleet, aided by the fishes botU
g^reat and small and by a miraculous wave, and whence she returned
only after receiving the abject submission of the King. Duringthe
three years of her absence in Korea, she held in her womb her son Ojiii
who is worshipped as Hachiman, the God of War. Next she turned her
attention Eastwards, and, going in her fleet up the Inland Sea, smote
the rebels of Yamato, as Jimmu Tenno is said to have done before her.
Indeed, it has been suspected that the two legends are but slightly
varying versions of the same story.
JuSKTSU (flourished about A.D. 1400), a priest and celebrated painter.
Anderson calls him the Japanese Cimabue.
Kano, the family name of a celebrated school of painters, which
originated in the 15th century and is not yet extinct. Its manner,
which appears highly conventional to Europeans, is classical in the eyes
of the Japanese. The greatest of these painters was Kano Motonobu
(born 1477). Other noteworthy members of the family were K. Shoei,
K. Eitoku, and K. Sanraku (16th century), K. Sansetsu, and especially
K. Tan-yu. K. Naonobu, K. Yasunobu, I\. Toun, and K. Tsunenobu
were also famous. All these names, from Sansetsu onwards, belong to
the 17th century. The Japanese custom of a<loption is the ke}' to the ap-
parent mystery of bo many men similarly gifted arising in one family.
Celebrated Personages, 41
Kato Kiyomasa was one of Hideyosbrs generals in the invasion of
Korea at i\\e end of the 16th century, anil a fierce enemy of the
Christians. He is one of tlie most popular Japanese lieroes, and is
worshipped — chiefly by the Nichiren sect of Buddhists — under the
name of Seishoko.
KiYOMORi (1118 — 1181), whom Satow calls <he Warwick of Japanese
liistory, was head of the great house of Taira during its struggles with
the rival house of Minamoto, and during the brief period of triumph
which preceded its final overthrow at Dan-no-ura. From the year 1156
until his death, Kiyoniori was all-powerful, engrossing all the highest
offices of state for his own kinsmen, and governing the Palace through
his kinswomen where boy Mikados succeeded each other like shadows
on the throne. To suit his own convenience, he moved the capital for a
time from Kvolo to Fukuwara near the site of modern Kobe — an act
of high-handed autocracy which was bitterly resented by the courtiers
and the nobility, whose habits were interfered with and resources
taxed by the double move. While irritating the upper classes by his
nepotism and overbearing demeanour, he ground down the common
people ])y his exactions, and endeavoured uiterly to exterminate the
Taira clan. The famous beauty Tokiwa, handmaiden to Yoshitomo,
was forced to yield to his embraces in order to save the life of her
infant, the future hero Yoshitsune, and every woman that pleased him
had to minister to his lust. His eldest son Shigemori remonstrated
with him in vain. But the storm did not break in his time. He died
in his bed, leaving his whole house to perish four years later iu a sea
of blood.
KuBo Daishi (774 — 834), the most famous of all Japanese Buddhist
saints, was noted equally as preacher, painter, sculptor, calligraphist,
and'travcller. Had his life lasted six hundred years instead of sixty,
lie could hardly have grav.en all the inuiges, scaled all the mountain-
peaks, confounded all the sceptics, wrought all the miracles, and per-
formed all the other feats with which he is popularly credited.
Byobu-ga-ura, near the modern temple of Kompira in Shikoku, was his
birth-place. His conception was miraculous, and he came into the
world with his hands folded as if in prayer. He entered the priesthood in
A.D. 793. Various legends are told of the trials to which he was subjected
by evil spirits during his novitiate. At Cape Muroto in Tosa, dragons
and other monsters appeared out of the sea* and disturbed him in his
prayers. These he drove away by repeating mystic formulae called
Darani, and by spitting at them the rays of the evening star which
hail flown from heaven into his mouth. At a temple built by him on
this spot, he was constantly annoyed by hobgoblins who forced him to
enter into conversation ; but he finally got rid of them by surrounding
himself with a consecrated enclosure into which they were unable to
enter against his will. Having been sent to China as a student in 804,
much as promising Japanese youths are sent to Europe and America
torday, he became the favourite disciple of the great abbot Hui-kwo
{Jap, Kei kwa), by whom he was charged to carry back to Japan the
tenets of the Yog^charya, or, as it is called in Japan, Shingon sect, which
occupies itself greatly with mystic formularies, magic spells, and
iucantations. Eobo Daishi returned home in 800, bringing with him a
42 Ititroductiofi : — Celebrated Personages.
lar^e quantity of BuHdliist books and religious parapliernalia, and in
810 was appointed abbot of Tuji in Kyoto. A few years later he found-
ed the great monastery of Koya-san, where his last days were spent
at the close of a life of incessant toil. It is asserted that he did not die,
but merely retired into a vaulted tomb, where he still awaits the coming
of Miroku, the Buddhist Messiah. Among the innumerable great deedi
with which this saint is credited, is the invention of the Hiragana
syllabary. It should be noted that tiie name Kobo Daishi (lit. the
Great Teacher Spreading abroad tlie Law) is a posthumous title con-
ferred on him b}^ the Emperor Daigo in the year 921. His name while
alive was Kfikai.
KoJiMA. Takanori, a high-born warrior of the 14th century, is
celebrated for his loyalty to the ill-starred Emperor Go-Daigo.
KoRiN (latter half of 17th century) was a famous lacquer artist and
painter.
KoSE NO Kanaoka (second half of 9th century) was the first great
Japanese painter. A number of quaint legends testify to the effect
which his skill produced on the minds of his contemporaries.
Kdmagai Naozane, a warrior of the latter half of the 12tli century,
took his surname from the town of Kumagai in Muaashi, which he received
as a fief from Yoritomo. The most famous incident in his life was his en-
counter with Atsumori at the battle of Ichi-no-tani not far from Kobe, in
the year 1184. Atsumori was a delicate youngnobleman of the Taira clan,
scarcely sixteen years of age, who, when the city of Fukuwara had been
taken by the Minamoto, soughtsafety like the rest of his kindred in flight
on board a junk, but being pursued by Knmagai Naozane, had to fight
for his life. He succumbed to the veteran, who, tearing off his helmet
the better to cut off his head, beheld the youthful face and was struck
with pity and sympath)^ his own son having fallen earlier in the day.
He reflected, however, that to spare the boy's life would only cause
him to fall into more. ruthless hands. So partly out of compassion, and
partly for the sake of his own reputation, he resolved to carry out his
first purpose. Atsumori submitted to his fate with heroic courage,
while Naozane, overwhelmed with bitter remorse, vowed never more to
bear arms, but to forsake the vvorld and devote the remainder of his
days to praying for the soul of the fair youlh whose life he had so
unwillingly taken. He restored to Atsumori's father the head and
the other spoils which life had won, and after the conclusion of the war
he went to Kyoto, and took monastic vows in the temple of Kurodani,
\vhere numerous relics of him are shown to this day. The story has
been- dramatised under the title of Atsumori.
KusuNOKi Masaseiigk (first half of 14th century) is celebrated
for his courage and for his unswerving lo3'alty to tlie throne. Had
the Emperor Go-Daigo listened to his advice, the rising power of
the house of Ashikaga might have been crushed. As it was, Masa-
shige was unequally pitted against a superior foe; and when his army
had been annihilated at the battle of Minato-gawa in 1336, he and a
little oand of personal followers committed haraJciri rather than
surrender. A scene which artists often represent, is Masashige abont to
die, presenting to his son the ancestral roll in order to stimulate him to
deeds worthy of the family renown.
Celebrated Personages. 48
MiTO KuMON (1622-1700), eecond Prince of Mito, a near relative
•of tlie Tokiigawa Slio^uns, helped greatly tliougli iinconsciouHly to the
tinul overthrow of tlieir house, and of the whole feuihil system a
•century and a half later, by means of his celebrated historical work, the
Z}ai Nihon SJii, which first caused men to suspect that the SliGguns were
usurpers, and the Mikados the only rightful rulers of Japan. He also,
patironised the new school of Shinto literati, whose studies le<l them, and
iinally the majority of the educated public, to endeavour to bring back the
«tate of things which had existed in pre-Buddhistic an<l pre-feudul days.
Popular tradition ascribes to this prince many fanciful undertakings,
-eiicli as the endeavour to raise the great bell from the river at Kunodai,
and to find the bottom of the Kananie-hhi at Kashima, which is
supposed to be the pivot of the world.
MuRASAKi Shikibu (flourished about A.D. 1000) was a Court lady,
And the most celebrated of Japanese romance-writers. Her chief work
is the Genji Monogatari,
♦ NiCHiREN was born at Kominato in the province of Awa at the
mouth of Yedo Bay in A.D. 1222. At the age of twelve, he became a
neophyte in the Shingon sect of Buddhists, and was a<)mitted to the
priesthood three years later. Shortly afterwards, he a<lopted the name
by which he is known to histor}-. It signifies * lotus of the sun,' and is
derived from a dream dreamt by his mother of thestm on a lotus-flower,
in consequence of which she became pregnant. He-acquired a thorough
knowledge of the whole Buddhist canon by a miracle, and met in the
course of his studies with words which he converted into the formula
Namu myoho renfje kffo, *0h, the scripture of tiie Lotus of the
Wonderful Law ! * — a formula which is still constantly used as an
invocation by his followers. Having attracted the attention of the
Regent Tokiyori by the unsparing manner in which he attacked other
sects, he was banished to the peninsula of Izu in 1261, but pardoned soon
after. Ten years later, his enemies persuaded the Regent Tokinmne that
Nichiren'sdtKJtrines tended tosubvert the state. He was seized and thrown
into a cave with his six cliief disciples, and condemned to be beheaded
the same niglit ; but when brought to the place of execution, was saved
by a miracle, the executioner's sword failing to act on the head of so holy
a man, and Tokinmne, warned in a dream, spared his life. Nichiren was,
however, banished to the island of Sado in the North, but was
permitted in 1274 to return to Kamaknra, then the military capital of
Eastern Japan. He next retired to live among the mountains o£
Minobn in a hut, which he quitted in order to take up his abode with
the lord of t)ie manor, Nambu Rokuro, a devotee so zealous that he
bestowed on the saint and his sect for ever all the lands in his
possession. As crowds of disciples flocked to Nichiren for instruction
in the faith, he erected a small shrine which became the nucleus of ihe
now famous monastery of ISIinohu. In 1282, feeling that death was
approaching, he removed from Minobu to Ikegami, near the modem
city of Tokyo, and thnre <lied. His body was burnt on the spot and
the bones conveyed to Minobu, only a small portion being retained at
Ikegami as a precious relic. His zeal and his intolerance appear to
iiave been inherited by his spirituid children, — the Nichiren-ahu, or
Hohhe-sha^ as the sect derived from him is also called, having paslied
44 Introduction : — Celebrated Personages,
ilie odium fheologicum to n degree otiierwise rare in tTapan. The chief
outwiird and visible — or ratlier audible — sign c»f tlieir temples is the
drum, which the devotees beat for liours to^etiier to keep time to their
chanting of the sacred formula Namu myoho renge Jcyo,
NiTTA YoSHiSADA, a Warrior of the 14th century, famed for hiB
• courage and for his devotion to the Mikado's cause against the usurp-
ing families of Hojo and Ashikaga.
NOBUNAGA,^ properly Ota Nobunaga (1534-1582), was a warrior
wlio, in the general scramble for land and power which went on in the
latter lialf of the 16th century, gained possession of the provinces
of Surnga, Mino, Omi, Mikawa, Tse, and Echizen. Having next taken
Kyoto, he built the fine castle of Nijo, and sided wiih Ashikaga Yoshi-
aki, who bv his influence wa/3 made Shoffun in 1558. Six vears later
the two quarrelled. Nobunaga arrested and deposed Yoshiaki, and the
power of the Ashikaga famil}*, which had lasted two hundred and
thirt3'-eight years, came to an end. By the aid of his generals. Hide-
yoshi and leyasu, he brought large portions of the Empire under his-
sway, but never obtained the title of Shogun, which custom had limited
to members of the Minamoto family, whereas Nobunaga was of Taini
descent. Though a great soldier, iJCobunaga lacked the administrative
ability to foUow up and consolidate the advantages gained in war. Conse-
quently, when he was assassinated by an offended subordinate named
Akechi, his power died with him. Nobunaga was a bitter enemy to
Buddhism. Among his many acts of violence, was the destruction of
tlie great monastery of Hiei-zan near Kyoto and of the Hongwanji at
Osaka, on both which occasions frightful scenes of massacre ensued.
On the other hand, he encouraged the Christians: but it is not to be sup-
posed that a nuin of his stamp did so out of any appreciation of their
reljgious doctrines. _
Okyo (1733 — 1795), properly called Maruyama Okyo, was the
founder of the Shijo school of painting, whose watchword was fidelity
to nature, though, as Anderson points out, their practice was far less
radical than their theor}', and did not lead them actually to reject the
conventionalities of tlieir predecessors in art. Okyo was specially
successful in his paintings of birds and fishes.
Saico, a Samurai of the Satsuma clan, whose youth coincided vith
the closing years of the Japanese ancien regime^ conspicuously dis-
tinguished himself on the Imperialist side. Before the triumph of the
latter, he was thrice exiled to Vries Island as a political suspect ; but
after the revolution of 1868, to the success of which he contributed
80 materially as to earn the title of Commancjer -in-Chief of the Imperial
army, he became one of the most important personages in the state.
His programme, however, was no radical one. When his colleagues in
the government showed tint their aim was not, as had at first been
asserted, a return to the Japan of early histoj'ic days, but the complete
Europeanisation of the country and the abandonment of all national
usages and traditions, Saigo broke with them, and retired to the city of
Kagoshima in Satsuma, where he founded a military school to. which
all the ardent youth of Satsuma and Osumi soon began to flock. The
• This article is taken almost verbalh- frr m Griffis's " Mikado's Empire," Cliap>
xxni. .
Celebrated Personages. 4&
influence of tliis scliool precipitated the inevitable conflict between the
old and the new order of idejis. It broke out in 1877, and is known to
history as the Satsunia Rebellion. After a struo^gle of several months,
tlio Imperialists triumphed, and Saigo himself fell on the 24th Septem-
ber, as did the whole of the little band of three hundred that had re-
mained faithful to him till the end. Saigo still lives in, popular estima-
tion as the most perfect example of a brave warrior and a true patriot;
and even the Imperial Court now honours his memory, the ban of
degradation having been removed in 1890, and the dead Commander-
in-Chief re-instated posthumousl}" in all his honours. The common
people say that Saigos spirit has gone to dwell in one of the brightest
stars of heaven. The visit of the Czarewitch to Japan in 1891 helped
to give credence to a wild notion according to which Saigo had, like
Yoshitsune centuries before, escaped to Siberia. The possibility of his
returning to Japan in the Czarewitch's train was seriously discussed by
several newspapers, and one adherent of the old school of Japanese
etiiics went so far as to commit haralclri when told by his friends that
he must be mad to believe such a tale.
, Sesshij (1421-152.7) was the greatest Japanese artist of the Chinese
sclwud of painting. Anderson says of him :
'* It is difficult for a European to estimate Sesshu at his true value.. ►
Notwithstanding the boast of the artist that the scenery of China was
his only teacher, and the credit bestowed upon him by his admirers of
having invented a new style, he has in no respect departed from the
artificial rules accepted by his fellow painters. He was, however, an
original and powerful artist, and his renilerings of Chinese scenery
bear evidences of local stud}' that we look for in vain in the works of
his successors. The grand simplicity of his landscape compositions,
their extraordinary breadth of design, the illusive suggestions of
atmosphere and distance, and the all-pervading sense of poetr}',
demonstrate a genius that could rise above all defects of theory in the
principles of his art."
Shinran Shoxin (1173-1262) was the founder of the powerful Ikko-
sliu sect of Buddhists, also called Shinshu or Monto, whose splendid
temples, known b}^ the name of Ilongii-ftuji or Monzehl^ are among
the chief sights of most Japanese cities. Hongwanji means * the
Monastery of the Ueal Vow,' in allusion to the vow made by Amida
that he would not accept Buddhahood except under the condition that
salvation was made attainable for all who should sincerely desire to be
born into his kingdom, and signify their desire by invoking his name
ten times. It is upon a passage in a Buddhist scripture where this vow
in recorded that the doctrine of the sect is based, its central idea being
that man is to be saved by faith in the merciful power of Amida, and
not by works or vain re petition of prayers. For this reason, and also
because its priests are permitted to marry, this sect has sometimes
been called the Protestantism of Japan. h\ the year 1602, political
reasons caused a split in the sect, which since that time has been
divided into u Western and an Eastern branch — N'lM Ilongicanji and
Higa^hi Hongwanjiy — each branch owning a temple in every considerable
city of the Empire. Shinran Shonin was descended from the Imperial
family. The abbots of the sect therefore bear the title of Monzeki, or.
46 Introduction : — Celebrated Personages.
Imperial Offspring, while tlie walls enclosing its temples are allowed
tlie Hiiji-kabe., or Mtripe<l plaster onianientatiou, otherwise reserved for
hnilditigs inhabite^I by Imperial princes. Daring the present reigo,
-Shinran Shunin has beon honoured by the bestowal of the posthnnHiiui
title of Kenshin Daiflhi, that is * the Great Teaclier who Sees the Truth.*
Shotokc Taishi (572-621), the Constantine of Japanese Buddhism,
was son of the Emperor Yoinei and regent nmler the Empress Suiko,
hnt never liimself actually ascended the thrune. Ue foumletl a large
number of monasteries, framed a short coile of laws, and is stiid to
have intnKluced the use of the calendar into Japan. He is also the
reputed author of numerous paintings and sculptures, which AndersoD,
however, inclines to consi<ler apocryphal.
ShObun (loth century), one of tlie greatest Japanese painters of the
-Chinese school.
80SRN (1747-1821), an artist of the Shijo school, famed for his
paintings of monkeys.
Takkxouchi no Sdkuxk, the Methuselah of Japan, is said to have
Jived two hundred and iifty-five years (according to others, three
iiundred and sixty years), and to have served six successive Mikados.
His birth is supposed to have taken place about 200 B.C.
ToBA SoJO, an abbot of tlie 13th century, is famous as the originator
' of a quaint, coarse style of picture called Toba-e.
Yamato-take no Mikoto, one of the eighty children of the Emperor
Keiko, was a great hero of the pre-historic age. While )-et a stripling,
he was sent by his father to destroy the rebels of Western Japan, —
an object wliicli he accomplished by disguising liimself as a girl, ami
making the rebel chieftains fall in love with him while carousing in the
•cave where they dwelt. Then suddenly drawing a sword from his
bosom, he smote them to death. He next subdued the provinc*e of
Izuiiio, and iinally conquered Eastern Japan, which was at that time
a birbarous waste. After many adventures both warlike and amorous,
he died on the homeward march to Yamato where the Emperor his
father held his Court.
YoRiTOMO (1147 — 1199) was the founder of the Shogunate, the first
Japanese Mayor of the "Palace, if we may so phrase it. A
scion of the great house of Minamoto, as shrewd and ambitious
as he was unscrupulous and inhuman, he was left an orphan at an
•early age, and barely escaped deatli as a lad at the hands of
Kiyomori, the then all-powerful Minister, who belonged to the rival
Taira clan. Kiyomori's exactions having roused the indignation of
the whole Empire, Yorit(mio saw that the moment had come to essay
the restoration of his own fortunes. All the malcontents eagerly
ilocked to his standard, and first in Eastern Japan, then at Kyoto,
and lastly at the great sea-fight of Dan-no-ura near Shimonoseki
at the S.W. end of the Inland Sea, Yoritomo defeated the Taira and
utterly exterminateil them, putting even women and children to the
«word. Yoritomo established his capital at Kamakura, wliicli soon^rew
into a great city, thoroughly reorganised the government by the ap-
pointment of military governors chosen from among his own clan to
4ict conjointly with the civil governors who received their nominations
from the Mikado, by the levy of taxes for military purposes payable
Population of the Chief Cities.
47
into his own trensury, nnci by otlier fiir-siglitecl innovalions made in the
joterests of a military femialisni. At last in 1192, lie obtained — in
other words forced — from the Court of Kyoto the title of Sel-i Tai
Shojun^ that is ^ Barbarian-subduing Generalissimo/ which soon
came to denote the military or achial king of the country, as distin-
Kaished from its theoretical head, the heaven-descended Mikado.
Yoritoino, whose life had been spent fighting, died peucefnily in his
lieci. Among the many on whom he trampled to satisfy the dictates of
|>er8onal ambition, was his own brother Yoshitsune, a far nobler hero.
Though Yoritomo's system of government rt*mained in vigour for well-
nigh seven centuries, the sceptre dropped froui his own family in the
next generation after his death, his sons Yoriie and Sanetomo being
weaklings who both perished by assassination at an early nge.
YoSHlTSUN^E (b. 1159) was younger halt'-hrotlier to the first Shogur>
Yoritomo, V>eing the son of Yoshitomo by a beautiful concubine named
Tokiwa. By yielding to the wicked desires of the tyrant Kiyomori^
Tokiwa nbtained pardon for her son on condition that he shaved hi»
liead and became a monk. Accordingly he whs placed in the Buddhist
raonustery of Kurama-yama near Kyoti». But theological exercises
were so little to his taste that he ran away to Northern Japan in com-
pany with. H friendly merchant, and at once distinguished himself by
the valour with which he repelled the assaults of the brigands, slaying
oeveral with his own hand, though then himself but sixteen years of
age. When Yoritomo rose in arms against the Taira clan, Yoshitsune
naturally joined him. and became his greatest general. Indeed, the real
guerdon belonged rightfully to the younger rather than to the elder
brother. Yoritomo, far from feeljng any gratitude, began to burn
with jealousy and to detest Yoshitsune as a possible rival. He even
went 8o far as to compass his death. But Yoshitsune escaped again to
Northern Japan, where, according to one account, he was discovered by
spies, and killed after a desperate fight on the banks of the Koromo-
gawa, his head being sent to Yoritomo at Kamakura preserved in mke^
Others say that he committed harahWi when he saw that all was lost.
liaving previously killed his own wife and children. A more fanciful
account is that he escaped to Yezo, and then re-appeared on the main-
land of Asia as Genghis Khan. This fable probably originated in an
accidental similarity between the Chinese characters used to write the
namefl of these two famous men. But it is a remarkable fact that to
this day Yoshitsune remains an object of worship among the Ainos of
Yezb. To the Japanese his name is a synonym for single-minded
bravery and devotion. The traveller will often hear mentioned in con-
nection with the name of Yoshitsune those of Benkei, his faithful
retainer, and Yasuhira, the traitor suborned by Yoritomo to slay him.
26. — Population of Chief Cities.
Fakui (Echizen). .
Fakuoka (Chikuzen)
Hakodate ....
Hirosliinvi. . . .
41,000
53,000
53,000
89,000
Hirosaki 30,000'
Kagoshima .... 57,000^
Kanazawa (Kj>ga) . . 94,000
Kobe 135,000
48
Introduction : — Outline Tours,
Koclii 32,000
Kofii 31,000
Kunicamoto .... 53,0()0
Kyoto 279,000
l^Iutsne 3G,000
•MatPiiynnia (Tyo) . . 32,000
Morioku 31,000
Nagasaki .55,000
Nagoya 102,000
Niigata 46,000
Okayama 48,000
0.saka 476,000
Sakai (Izunii) . .
Sen<iai ....
Slninonoseki . .
Sliiziiokn. . . .
TakamatfiU (Sannki)
Tokiisliiina (Awa)
Tokyo (district of)
Toyama (EtcliQ)
Utsnnoniiva .
Wakayania . .
Yokohama . .
Yokosuka . .
4«.000
1)0,000
33,000
37,000
32,000
61,000
1,389,000
58,000
30,000
56,000
122,000
32,000
27. — Outline Tours.
1. One monlirs tour from Yokoliama : —
Tokyo 2 (laye.
Kamaknru and Eiiosliiina 1 „
IVIiyanosliita 3 „
From Mi3'anosliita to Nagoya by Tokaido Railway •... 1 „
^agoya .\ i „
From Nagoya to Kyoto 1 „
Kyoto 4 „
Xake Biwa and back to Kyoto 2 „
From Kyoto to Nara, Osaka, and Kobe 3 ,,
Back to Yokohama by steamer or railway 1 J „
From Yokohama to Nikko 1 ,»
Nikko and Chuzenji .^ 4 „
From Nikko to Ikao by rail via Oyama and Maebashi 1 „ .
Ikao (visit Harima) 2 „
From Ikao to Myoo^i-san via Takasaki 1 ,.
Hyogi-san and back to Yokohama by rail 1 „
Spare days 2 „
31 „
This tour is practicable for ladies throughotit. With it may be com-
bined the ascent of Fuji from Yokohama (see Route 9).
2. One month's tour from Nagasaki : —
Nagasaki and Onsen (Unzen) 4 daj's*
From Nagasaki to Ko!)e by steamer 2 „
Nara, Kyoto^ and Lake Biwa i 5 „
From Kyoto to Nagoya by Tokaido Railway 1 „
From Nagoya to Miyanoshita 1 „
Miyanoshita 3 „
From ^livanoshita to Kamakura and Yokohama 1 ,,
Yokphama 1 ,^
Tokyo *........ ..;; 2 ^,
Outline Touts* A9
•From Tok^o to Nikko and b«ck 4 dayq^
Steuiuer from Yokohaiiiu to Nagasaki 4 ,^
Spiire days 3 ,)
31 „ *
This tour, like tlie last, is practicable for ladies. Sliortcr tours can
easily be arranged by omitting certain portions of the above.
3. Yokohama to Mi^'anoshita, Hakone, an(i Atami (see Routes 6 and 7).
4. YokoliJima to Nikko, tlie copper-mines of Ashio, down the valley
of the Watarase-gawa to Oinama, and back to Yokohama by train.
Five da^'s. ^ One day extra for Kosliin-zan (Routes 16 and 17).
5. Yokohama to Nikko, Chu/.enji, and Yumoto ; thence over the
Konsei-toge to Maehashi, and back to Yokoliama by train. One week*
Two extra days to visit Ikao at end of trip (Routes 16 and 18).
_ 6. Yokobaiiia to Tachikawa on the Hachioji Railway ; thence vi^
Ome up tbe valley of the Taniagawa to Kofu. Kofu to Kajikazawa,
and down tiie rapids of tlie Fujikawa (visiting Minobn) to Iwabuchi on
ihe Tukaido Railway. One week. If Mitako be visited, one day more.
All this is included in Route 10.
7. Y^'okohama to Ikao, Ist day ; Ikao to Knsatsu, 2nd day ; Kusatsii
to Sliibu over Shirane-san, 3rd day ; Shibu to Toy(»no and Nagano, 4tli
^la}' ; Nagano vki Karuizawa to Myogi-san, 5th day. Train to Yoko-
liama in 4J hrs. One day extra for ascent of Asama-yama from Karui-
zawa (Routes 14, 32. 13, and 12).
8. Yokohama to Nagano by train, back to Ueda to rejoin the Naka-
«endu, thence along the Nakasendo to Gifu, and by train to Kyoto.
Eight or nine days (Routes 32, 39, and 38).
9. Yokohama by the Koshu-kaido or Nakasendo to Shimo-no-Suwa,
and down the rapids of the Tenryu-gawa to the Tokaido Railway.
Five or six days (Routes 10, 39, and 35).
10. Yokohama by train to Shiogania, by water to ^latsusliima, Ishino-
maki, Kinkwa-zan, and Oginohama, whence steamer back to Yokohama*
Six days. Three extra days to visit Bandai-san from Motomiya on
Northern Railway. Two extra days from Sendai for Ichinoseki by train,
an<l descent of the Kitakami-gawa (Routes 24, 30, and 21).
11. Kobe to Nagoya by rail ; steamer from Atsuta to Kami-Yashiro
for temples of Ise; by land to Seki, and by the Kwansei Railway to
Kyoto._ Four days (Routes 38 and 37).
12. Osaka through Yamato to Koya-san and back. Five days (Route
46).
13. Kyoto to Tsurnga on the Sea of Japan ; overland or steamer to
Fnshiki, steamer to Naoetsu, rail to Tokyo. Five or six days (Routes
33, 32, and 12).
14. Tour of the Inland Sea and Shikoku. Time uiy^ertain (Routes
50 to 53).
* 15. Nagasaki to tbe solfataras of Onsen (Unzcn) and back. Three
days (Route 55).
16. Naga<;aki to the hot-springs of Takeo, and back via the potteries
of Arita. Three days (Routes 55 and 56).
17. From Nagasaki by steaiier to Misumi, 8 hrs.; overland to Kuma-
90 Introduction : — Outline Totirs.
moto; tlience viA Yatstisliiro and Hitoyoslii for the descent of tlifr
rapids of tlie Kuinagawa. Six days. Tlie trip to Hitoyoslii and back,
omitting Kuummoto, may be made from Misumi in three or four days
(Route 57).
18. From Nagasaki by steamer v'ld Hyakkwan to Wakatf^u, Ist day ;
jinrikisha to Hida, 2iid day; by the Yabake valley to Kakatsu, 3rd day;
0ita, 4th day; Takeda, 5th day; Sakanashi, 6th day; Knmamoto, 7tli
day; back to Nagusuki by steamer from Misumi, 8lh day. Three or
four extra days are required for the descent of the rapids of tlie Kuma-
g^awa (Routes 56 and 57).
19. From Hakodate by steamer to Olaru; thence to Sapporo, Volcano
Bay, and back to Hakodate overland. Five or six days (Route ^Q),
20. By steamer from Hakodate up the East Coast of Yezo and to the
Southern Ku riles (Route 67).
SECTION I.
EASTERN JAPAN.
(Routes 1 — 23.
M Introduction : — Outline Tours.
tnoto; thence viii Yatsnshiro and Hitoyoslii for tlie descent of tli»
rapids of tlie Kiiinagawa. Six days. The trip to Hitoyoslii and back,
omitting Kuummoto, may be made from Misumi in three orfmir day»
(Route 57).
18. From Nagasaki by steamer vid Hyakkwan to Wakatfu, Ist day ;
jinrikisha to Hida, 2nd day; by the Yabake valley to Nakatsu, 3rd day;
Oita, 4th day; Takeda, 5tli day; Sakanashi, 6th day; Kiimamoto, Tth
day; back to Nagasaki by steamer from Misumi, 8lh day. Three or
four extra days are required for the descent of the rapids of the Kuma-
gawa (Routes 56 and 57).
19. From Hakodate by steamer to Olaru; thence to Sapporo, Volcano
Bay, and back to Hakodate overland. Five or six days (Route ()&).
20. By steamer from Hakodate up the East Cuust of Yezo and to the-
Southern Kuriles (Route 67).
SECTION I.
EASTERN JAPAN.
(Routes 1 2^,
Handbook for Travellers
IN
JAPAN.
ROUTES.
KOUTE 1.
Yokohama.
Tokohaina> the place where
most visitors first touch Japanese
soil, is the largest of the Treaty
Ports and practically the port of
Tokyo.
Hotels.— Grand Hotel, No. 20 j
Club Hotel, No. 5-b, both on the
Bund facing the sea; Haefker's
Hotel, No. 87, Main Street.
Begtauranis. — (Muropean food).
Nissei-ro, in Benten-dori. — (Japor
Msefood). Edoko, in Minami Naka-
dori, noted f orbits eels (unagi-meshi);
Sanomo, in Ota-machi ; Fukki-ro,
near the Railway Station.
Japanese Inns. — Yamazaki-ya,
Tawara-ya, Takano-ya, Imamura-
ya.
Banks. — Hongkong and Shanghai
Bank, No. 2; New Oriental Bank,
No. 11 ; Chartered Bank of India,
Australia, and China, No. 78. Also
Agencies of the Chartered Mer-
cantile Bank and the Comptoir
d'Escompte ; Yokohama Specie
Bank (Japanese).
Con«*Za<€8. — British, No. 172;
American, No. 234; French, No.
84; (German, No. 81.
Post and Telegraph Office.— Thia,
together with the Telephcme Ex-
chcenge, the Custom House (Zeikwan),
and the Prefecture {Kenchd), stands
near the British and American
Consulates on the space between
the Foreign Settlement and the
Japanese town.
Steam Comfmunication. — Japan
Mail Steamship Company (Nippon
Yusen Kwaisha), close to the Rail-
way Station ; Peninsular and Orien-
tal, No. 15 ; Messageries Maritimes,
No. 9; Norddeutscher Lloyd, No.
29; Pacific Mail, Occidental and
Oriental, No. 4-a ; Canadian Pacific,
No. 200 ; Agents for " Glen" line,
Jardine, Matheson & Co. ; '' Castle "
line and " Shire " line, Adamson,
Bell & Co; "Ben" line Comes &
Co ; " Holt's " line, Butterfield and
Swire.
Churches. — Christ Church (An-
glican), No. 105 ; Union Church
(Protestant Episcopalian), No. 167;
Roman Catholic, No. 80 ; Methodist
Church, No. 221.
Clubs. — Yokohama United Club,
No. 5-A.; Club Q«rmania, No. 235.
Photographs of Japanese scenery
and costumes. — Farsari & Co., No.
16 ; Welsh & Co., No. 86 ; Kimbei,
in Honcho-dori; Tamamura, in
Benten - dori ; Suzuki, near the
Cricket Q-round.
Books and Maps relating to Japan.
54
Pioute 1, — YokoJiama.
—Kelly and Walsh, No. 61 ; Good-
enough & Co., No. 56 ; Farsari, No.
16.
Foreign Stores for Japanese Works
of Art. — Deakin Brothers & Co.,
at the Grand Hotel and No. 16 ;
Kuhn, No. 67 ; Shinagawa, No. 35 ;
Arthur & Bond's Fine Art Gallery,
No. 12 ; Welsh & Co., No. 86.
Japanese Curio Dealers. — Minoda
Chojiro, in fionchd-dori, fine lac-
quer, enamels, and ivories ; Inoue,
44, Honcho-dori, screens, embroid-
eries, etc. ; Musashi-ya, in Honcho-
dori, jewellery, ivories, silver-ware,
etc. ; Nagasaki-ya, in Honcho-dori,
jewellery, metal- work, ivories, etc. ;
Matsuishi-ya, in Honcho-dori,
porcelain in European shapes ;
Tashiro-ya, in Benten-dori, porce-.
lain ; Watano, in Honcho-dori,
porcelain ; Kosaka, 25, Benten-dori,
paper fans ; Shamokame, 15, Hon-
cho-dori, embroidery, porcelain,
and enamels ; Fine Art Exhibi-
tion, in Asahi-machi.
SiUc Stores. — Shobei, Shieno, both
in Honcho-dori; Noboru-ya Saku-
bei, in Benten-dori; also, for
cheaper articles, Yamaguchi in
Ot«>-machi, and Matsura, 52, Ben-
ten-dori.
Emhroideries, Silk cmd Cotton
Crapes, Japanese Cottons, etc. — No-
zawa-ya, '30, Benten-dori, Nicho-
me; Tamagata-ya, opposite No-
zawa-ya.
Japanese Note-paper. — ^Tanikawa,
in Minami Naka-dori Itchome.
Toys, etc. — Nagai, in Honcho-dori.
Bamboo and Bead Blinds, Cabinets,
etc. — Moriyasu, 62, Benten-dori Shi-
cbome.
Japanese Theatres, etc. — ^Tsuta-za,
in Isezaki-ch5 ; Minato-za, in Sumi-
yoshi-cho, in the native town,
where there is also generally a sort
of fair. Fairs are held in honour
of Yakushi in Motomachi Itchome
on the 8th and 12th of every
month, and at Nogeyama in honour
of the Sun-Goddess and of Fud5,
on the Ist, 15th, and 28th.
Pvhlie Garden and Cricket Ground.
n
n
— At the back of the Settlement,
behind the American Consulate;
Bluff Gardens, No. 230.
Hfevoapapers. — " Japan Ga.zette,
" Japan Mail," and "Japan Herald,
daily.
HiBTOBT.— Yokohama owes its com-
mercial importance to the foreigners who
have settled there. It was an insignificant
fishing village when Commodore Perry
anchored off it in 1864; and when it vras
agreed to open a Treaty Port in this part
of tlapan, tne choice naturally fell, not on
Yokohama, but on the thriving tofvn of
Kanagawa, on the opposite side of the
small Day now partially filled in. But the
Japanese Government, finding Kanagawa
inconvenient because of its situation on
the Tdkaid5, at a time when collisions
between foreigners and the armed re-
tainers of the Daimyds passing to and
from the capital were to be appre-
hended, gave facilities for leasing
ground at Yokohama instead. Thither
accordingly the merchants, anxious to
open up trade, repaired in 1869. The
consuls protested against the change ;
but the only lasting result of their pro-
test is the retention of the name Kana-
gawa in certain ofS-cial documents. The
superiority of the Yokohama anchorag^e
doubtless reconciled the foreign com-
munity to the inferior position of the
place on a mud flat facing North. The
greater portion of the Settlement, aa it
now exists, dates from after the fire of
1866, and the filufE on which most of
the well-to-do residents have their
dweUings was first leased for building
purposes in 18'{7. A large and rapidly
growing native town has sprung up
outside the foreign Settlement. The
government of the Settlement, at one
time in the hands of a mixed foreign
municipality, is at present administered
by the Prefect of Kanagawa. The last
of the English soldiers, by whom the Set-
tlement was at one time protected, left
Japan in March 1875. Waterworks were
constructed under the dii'ection of Major-
General Palmer, R. B., and opened in
October 1887 to supply Yokohama from
the Sagami-gawa, 28 m. distant.
It should be explained that
although the streets have names,
these are comparatively little used,
as the numbering of the whole
Settlement is continuous, irrespec-
tive of street names. A similar
remark applies to the Bluff.
Yokohama possesses a Public
Hall where theatrical and other
entertainments are given, a fine
Masonic Hall, and a Race Oourso.
Route 2, — Excursions from Yokohama.
55
Sace meetings, often attended
l)y His Majesty the Mikado, are
lield in spring and autumn.
Though Yokohama offers little to
1>he sightseer^ the curio-hunter
'will here find himself in his ele-
ment, and the lover of the pictur-
esque wiU revel in the beautiful
landscapes for which the neigh-
bourhood is famous.
ROUTE 2.
EXCXTBSIONS FBOM YOKOHAMA.
1. KAHAETTBA AND THB DAIBUTSU.
2. ENOSHIHA. 8. DZT7SHI AND
HOBIUCHI. 4. EANAZAWA AND
MINE. 6. SUeiTA AND TOMIOKA.
6. TOK08UKA, XTBAGA, AND MI-
BAKI. 7. THE CAVES OF TOTSUKA.
8. OTAMA. 9. disc. 10. EOZIT.
1. — Kamakttba.
Kamakura is reached from Yoko-
hama in 50 min. by the Tokaido
Kailway, changing carriages at
Ofuna Junction. This branch line
continues on to Dzushi and Yoko-
suka, being altogether 21^ miles in
length.
Kamakara, once the populous
capital of Eastern Japan, has now
shrunk into a sea-side village
which is a favourite health resort
of the Yokohama residents. The
*£[aihin-in Hotel or Marine Sana-
torium, situated under a pine-
grove near the shore, is 20 min.
walk from the Bailway Station.
The Japanese inn, Mitsuhashi, may
also be recommended. Both pro-
vide hot and cold salt-water baths.
Kamaknra was the seat of govern-
ment in Eastern Japan from the end
of the 12th to the middle of the 16th
century. Yoritomo, who established the
Shdgnnate in 1192, chose this place as
his capital, and here was laid the found-
ation of that peculiar system of govern-
ment by the military class which pre-
vailed up to the year 1868. The city of
Kamakura, in the time of Yoritomo's
immediate successors, extended all over
the plain and into the recesses of the
different yatau, or dells, which branch
off from it among the hills. Its popula-
tion is believed to have exceeded one
million in the days of its glory. Kama-
kura was the scene of innumerable con-
tests between rival feudal factions, and
of many bloody deeds. Here on the
sea-shore were beheaded the Mongol
ambassadors from Kublai Khan, who
had imperiously sent to demand the
submission of Japan to his sway. The
city was repeatedly sacked and laid in
ashes, and seems never to have fully
recovered from the disasters of the year
1466. The neighbouring city of Odawara,
which next rose into importance as the
seat of the powerful Hoj5 family, at-
tracted to itself large numbers of the
inhabitants of Kamakura, the ruin of
which town was completed by the found-
ing of Yedo in A.D. 1603.
The chief sights of Kamakura
are the Temple of Hachiman, the
Daibutsu or colossal bronze Bud-
dha, and the great image of the
goddess Kwannon. They all lie
within a mile of the hotel.
The Temple of Hachiman, the
God of War, dating from the end
of the 12th century, stands in a
commanding position on a hill
called Tsuru-ga-oka, and is ap-
proached by a stately avenue of
pine-trees leading up the whole
way from the sea-shore. Though
both avenue and temple have
suffered from the ravages of
time, enough still remains to
remind one of the ancient glories
of the place. Three stone torii
lead up to the temple, which
stands at the head of a broad
flight of stone steps. Notice the
magnificent ichd tree, nearly 20
ft. in circumference and said to be
over a thousand years old.
Before ascending the flight of
steps, the minor shrines to the
r. deserve passing notice. The
nearer one, painted red and called
Wakamiya, is dedicated to the
Emperor Nintoku, son of the God
of War. The further one, re-
novated in 1890, is called Shira-
hata Jinja and dedicated to Yori-
tomo. The style and structure
are somewhat unusual, black and
gold being the only colours em-
66
Route 2. — Ejccursions from Yokohama,
ployed, and iron being the mate-
rial of the four chief pillars. In
the interior is a small wooden
image of Yoritomo.
A side path leads up hence to the
main temple, which is enclosed
in a square colonnade painted red.
The temple, which was re-erect-
ed in 1828 after having been
destroyed by fire seven years ear-
lier, is in the Ryobu-Shint5 style,
with red pillars, beams, and
rafters, and is decorated with
small painted carvings chiefly of
birds and animals. In the colon-
nade are several religious cars {mi
koshi) used on the occasion of the
semi-annual festival (15th April
and 15th September), a wooden
image of Sumiyoshi by Unkei,
and a few relics of Yoritomo.
Most of the relics once preserved
in the temple have been removed
to the residence of the Chief
Priest {Hakozaki Oyatsu-kwan), and
are only exhibited at festival time.
Immediately behind the temple
of Hachiman, is a small hill called
8hirdhata-yama, whence Yoritomo
is said to have often a-dmired the
prospect. The base of the hill has
recently been enclosed and laid out
as a garden.
The Daibutsu, or 'Great Bud-
dha,' stands alone among Japan-
ese works of art. No other gives
such an impression of majesty, or
so truly symbolises the central
idea of Buddhism — ^the intellect-
ual calm which comes of perfected
knowledge and the subjugation
of aU passion. But to be fully
appreciated, the Daibutsu must be
visited many times.
There hfiui been a temple in this plswje
eince the 8th century, but the image is
of much later date. Its precise history is
involved in obscurity. Tradition, how-
ever, says that TJoritomo, when taking
part in the dedication of the Daibutsu
at Nara, conceived the desire of having
a similar object of worship at his own
capital, but died before he could put
the plan into execution. One of the
ladies of his court undertook to collect
funds for the purpose, and in the year
1252 Jhe Kamakura Daibutsu was cast
by Ono Goroemon, History tells of
two such imHges. The first, a wooden
one, was designed by a priest who col-
lected money far and wide amon?st all
classes, and in 1238 the head of the
image, so ft. in circumference, was in
its place, while the temple in which it
stood was completed in 1241 and dedi-
cated in l'i!43. This image is said to
have represented Amida, and to have
been destroyed by a tempest. The
second is spoken of as a gilt bronze
image of Shaka, and the casting is said
to have been begun in 1252. The pre-
sent one represents Amida, and notwith-
standing the difference of name, is pro-
bably the bronze image spoken of above
as dating from 1252. It was enclosed in
a large building 60 yds. square, whose
roof was supported on sixty-three mass-
ive wooden pillars. Many of the stone
bases on which they stood are still in
situ. The temple buildings were twice
destroyed by tidal waves in 1869 and
1494, after which they were not rebuilt.
Since that time the image has remained
exposed to the elements.
The Daibutsu is best seen from
about half-way up the approach.
Its dimensions are approximately
as follows : —
• FT. IK".
Height 49 7
Circumference 97 2
Length of face 8 5
Width from ear to ear 17 9
Eound white boss on fore-
head 1 3
Length of eye: 3 11
„ of eyebrow 4 2
„ of ear 6 6
„ of nose 3 9
Width of mouth 3 2
Height of bump of wisdom. 9
Diameter of bump of wis-
dom 2 4
Curls (of which there are
830): Height 9
Do. Diameter 1
Length from knee to knee 35 8
Circumference of thumb ... 3
The eyes are of pure gold, and
the silver boss weighs 30 pounds
avoirdupois. The image is formed
of sheets of bronze cast separately,
brazed together, and finished off on
the outside with the chisel. The
hollow interior of the in age
Kamnkura and Enoshima.
67
contains a small shrine, and the
visitor may ascend into the head.
The Temple of Kwannon stands
not far from the Daibutsu on
an eminence commanding a
beautiful view of the sea-shore
towards Misaki, and over the
plain of Kamakura. The great
image of the Goddess of Mercy,
for which this temple is cele-
brated, stands behind folding
doors which a small fee to the
attendant priest will suffice to
open ; but the figure can only be
indistinctly seen by the dim
light of a few candles. It is of
brown lacquer gilded over, and
its height is 30 ft. 5^ in. The
admirable bronze seated figure
of Dainichi Nyorai on the 1. was
presented by the Shogun Ashi-
kaga Yoshimasa (b. 1436, d. 1490).
Close to this temple is a cliff
called Inamura-ga-saki, from the
top of which a magnificent view
can be obtained.
In 1333, when the, city of Kamakura
was attacked by the partisans of the
Emperor G-o-Daigo. part of the force led
by Nitta Yoshisada advanced along the
strand from the W. of this hill, but were
unable to pass under the cliff owing to
ehevaux-de-frite being placed against it
down to the water's edge, while their
{)as8age in boats was prevented by a
ong row of war- junks lying some 500 or
WiO yds. out at sea. Yoshisada there-
fore climbed the cliff, and after praying
to the Sea-God, flung his sword into the
sea, whereupon the tide miraculously
retreated, leaving a space a mile and a
half wide at the foot of the cliff, along
which he marched his army into Kama-
kura.
2. — ExosHnncA.
This most picturesque spot,
though called an island, is more
properly a peninsula ; for only at
very high tides is it surrounded
by the sea. The prettiest way
there is by the road called Shichi-ri-
ga-hama * skirting the beach from
Kamakura, and through the vi lage
of Katase. The distance from
•Literally, the "seven ri shore," the
r» \n early times having oqI.y consisted of
six eho in Eastern Japan.
Kamakura is 4 miles. Jinrikishas
can be taken as far as Katase,
whence it is a short walk across the
neck of sand joining Enoshima to
the mainland.
A sKghtly more direct way of
approaching Enoshima is from
Fujisawa station on the Tokaido
Railway, whence it is 1 ri by jin-
rikisha to Katase.
Half way is the Yukial-gawa, which,
though but an insignificant streamlet,
is worthy of mention on account of the
following incident :—
When Nichiren was miraculously de-
livered from the hand of the executioner
at the neighbouring village of Koshigoe,
a messenger was at once despatched to
KfCmakura to ask for further orders,
while at the same moment a reprieve
was sent from the palace of the Regent
Tokiyori. The two messengers happen-
ed to meet at this stream, whence the
name of Tuldai-gavoa^ which means
* the river of meeting.*
Enoshima, being a popular holi-
day resort, is full of excellent inns.
The best are the Iwamoto-in, Klinki-
ro, and Ebisu-ya. There is fair sea-
bathing. The shops of Enoshima
are full of shells, corals, and
marine curiosities generally, many
of which are brought from other
parts of the coast for sale. The
beautiful ' glass rope sponge '
(Hyalonema sieholdi), called hosu-
gai by the Japanese, is said to be
obtained from a reef deep below
the surface of the_seia, not far
from the island of Oshima, whose
smoking top is visible to the S.
on a clear day.
From the earliest ages . the
island was sacred to Benten, the
Buddhist Goddess of Luck; but
this cult has now been exchanged
for that of three Shinto god-
desses. To these objects of wor-
ship several temples have been
re-dedicated. But the spot con-
sidered most sacred of all is the
large cave on the far side of the
island. It is 124 yds. in depth,
the height at the entrance being
at least 30 ft., but diminishing
gradually towards the interior.
The rocks near the cave are
68
Route 2, — Excursions from Yokohama,
frequented by divers, who for a
few cents bring up shell-fish
from the deep, which, however,
they are suspected of having pre-
viously concealed about their
persons.
At Katase stands the temple of
Bynkdji, founded after Nichiren's
death by six of his disciples, and
built on the spot where his ex-
ecution was to have taken place.
It possesses a number of excellent
wood-carvings.
3. — DZXJSHI AND HOBITJCHI.
Dznshi, on the railway, 2^
miles to the S. E. of Eamakura,
is the station for Horiuclii, li
miles distant, which has lately
risen into favour as a sea-side
resort, some of the wealthier
residents of Tokyo and Yokohama
having built villas there. The
road from Dzushi to Horiuchi is
practicable for jinrikishas, and the
view from it one of the loveliest in
Japan, — Fuji, which rises straight
from the waters of Odawara Bay,
forming the central feature of
the scene. The Hikage-no-Chaya
inn at Horiuchi may be recom-
mended. A little nearer, the
station, across a ferry, there is
another inn known aB the Onsen, —
rather a poor plsice, but with
better bathing. From the Hika-
ge-no-Chaya, bathers have a walk
of about 3 min. to reach a good
beach. Half a mile beyond the
Hikage-no-Chaya there is a beauti-
ful wooded promontory called
Morita Myojin, and the whole
walk for 2 m. further along the
coast unfolds a succession of ex-
quisite scenes.
4. — Kanazawa and Mine.
Jinrikishas may be taken the
whole way ; two men required.
The total distance is 4 ri 30 chd
(IJf miles), the road being flat
for the first 6 m., as far as the
hamlet of Seki {Inn, Ishikawa-ya),
and after that, very hilly.
[At the hamlet of Tanaka, 10
cho beyond Seki, a road prac-
ticable most of the way for
jinrikishas, turns off r. to a
hiU called Mine, which com-
mands a wonderfully extensive
view. The finest prospect is
towards the N., looking down
on a multitude of furrowed
ridges that stretch away to
the mountains of Kotsuke. To
the W., the sea is_visible near
Hiratsuka and Oiso on the
T^aido, and beyond it, Fuji
with the Oyama and Hakone
ranges. The distance from
Tanaka to Mine is 28 cho, s&y
2 mUes.]
On reaching the crest of the
ridge, the wondrous beauty which
has led the foreign residents to
bestow on this neighbourhood
the name of the Plains of Heaven,
suddenly reveals itself. A scene
of perfect loveliness may be en-
joyed from a wayside tea-house
called NoJcendo, which nestles
under a pine-tree known as the
Fvde-sute-matsu, because a Japa-
nese artist of oMen times here
flung away his pencil in despair.
At the spectator's feet is a wide,
cultivated valley, bordered by
pine-clad hills and opening out
to the shores of an inlet, whose
still waters are partly hemmed
in by smaU peninsulas and islets,
with to the 1. the promontory
of Kwannon-saki, and on the op-
posite side of Tokyo Bay the long
crest of Nokogiri-yama. The
most conspicuous of the islands
are Natsushima (Webster Island)
with Sarushima (Perry Island)
beyond it, and Eboshi-jima which
is much smaller and to be re-
cognised by its triangular shape.
But a mere catalogue of names
can avail nothing towards con-
veying an idea of the peculiar
magic of a scene which might be
Route 2, — Kanazawa, Sugita, Yokosuka,
59
the original that inspired the
Japanese landscape painter's art.
KanazAUva (Inns, Chiyo-moto,
Azuma-ya), on the shores of the
Mutsura Inlet, is chiefly noted
for its Hak-kei, a characteristically
Japanese view from a small
height just outside the village.
Close to the ferry at Nojima {Inn,
Nishino - ya) is a celebrated
peony garden, which attracts
crowds from Tokyo during the
season of flowering. Some of the
plants are said t^ be over 300
years old. Kanazawa may also
be reached by the coast road
vid Tomioka on foot in 3 hrs.
The way back to Yokohama
may be pleasantly varied by
taking the jinrikisha road across
the neck of the little peninsula
of Misaki to the Dzushi station
on the Yokosuka branch of the
Tokaido Railway, a distance of
24 ri (6 miles). The run in from
Dzushi to Yokohama takes 1 hr.
This trip may advantageously
be combined with a visit to Kama-
kura, the station beyond Dzushi.
5. — SuaiTA AND TOMIOKA.
It is a very pleasant walk or
jinrikisha ride of about 2 ri, or 4f
miles, from Yokohama to Sngita
(Inns, AzumsL-ya and others),
famous for its plum-blossoms ;
and 1 ri further on to Toiiiioka
(Inns, Kimpa-ro, Kaihin-ro), a
favourite resort of the Yokohama
residents, on account of the good
searbathing in Mississippi Bay.
Tomioka may also be easily
reached by boat from the cutting
at the back of the Settlement
in about 40 min., the distance from
the Settlement to the point where
the boat is taken being approxi-
mately 1 ri. . The whole neighbour-
hood is delightfully picturesque.
A favourite afternoon's walk is
to Macpherson's Hill {JAoritsvika),
on the way to Sugita. This hill
commands a fine view of Missis-
sippi Bay and of the country
towards Fuji.
6. — Yokosuka, Ubaga, and
Misaki.
Yokosuka is the terminus of
the Of una - Eamakura - Dzushi -
Yokosuka branch line of railway,
and is reached from Yokohama in
\\ hr. Steamers also ply between
Yokohama and Yokosuka several
times daily. The little line of rail-
way passes through characteristic-
ally Japanese scenery — wooded
hiUs rising up abruptly from valleys
laid out in rice-fields, with here and
there a cottage or a tiny shrine
half-hidden in a rustic bower.
Tlie train darts in and out of
short tunnels under some of these
hills before reaching the sea-shore
at Yokosuka.
Yokosuka (Inn, Mitomi-ya ; ¥w-
eign restaurant, Kaiyo-ken), which
but a few years ago was a poor
village, is rapidly growing in im-
portance, on account of the Govern-
ment Dockyard established there.
Foreigners can usually obtain ad-
mittance by presenting their cards
at the gate; but it is safer to provide
oneself with an introduction from
the naval authorities. The town is
prettily situated on a landlocked
bay. Its chief interest for English-
men lies in the fact that here lived
and died Will Adams, the first
Englishman that ever reached the
shores of Japan.
Will Adams, a native of Gillingham in
Kent, was chief pilot to a fleet of Dutch
ships which reached the Southern coast
of Japan on the 19th April, A.D. IfKK).
Brou^t as a prisoner into the presence
of leyasu, Adams soon won the favour
of that astute ruler, who employed him
both as a ship-builder and as a kind of
diplomatic agent when other English and
Dutch traders began to Hrrive. Adams*
constantly reiterated desire to behold his
native land again and the wife and
children whom he had left behind, was to
the last frustrated by adverse circum-
stances. He consoled himself by taking
another wife, a Japanese, with whom he
lived until his death in l620atHemi, a
suburb of Yokosuka, where the railway
station now stands.
60
Route 2. — Excursions Jvijin Yokohama,
His grave and that of his Japa-
nese wife are situated on the top of
a hill, i hr. walk from the rail-
way station. The Japanese call
the place Anoin-zuka, from Anjin
which means " pilot," that having
been the appellation by which
Adams was commonly known. The
tombs are of stone in the ordinary
Japanese style. Will Adams' monu-
ment is without an inscription,
while that of his wife bears the
posthumous title which every good
Buddhist receives from the priests
of the parish temple. The site has
been well-cared for ever since the
discovery and identification of the
tombs in 1872 by Mr. James Walter
of Yokohama. Not only is the
situation of the graves most pictur-
esque, but the eminence on which
they stand affords a lovely view of
land and sea. The place is to be
recommended as a pleasant spot
for a picnic.
Another vantage-point just out-
side the opposite or E. end of Yoko-
suka^ is Kome-no-yama, a cliff on
which stands a temple of the Nichi-
ren sect called Ryuhonji, possessing
some good carvings. The level
stretches at the foot of the cliffs
have recently been reclaimed from
the sea.
The distance from Yokosuka to
Uraga is 1 n 32 cho (4^ miles)
along an excellent road. A little
more than _ half-way lies the
hamlet of Otsn, where there is
excellent^ Japanese accommodation
at the Otsu-kwan, with a good
beach for sea-bathing.
llratra (Inn, *Yoshikawa in
Nishi-Uraga) is built on both sides
of a very narrow fiord-like har-
bour, and the two divisions thus
formed are called respectively Higa-
shi Uraga and Nishi Uraga, i.e..
East and West Uraga. They are
connected by a bridge and a ferry.
In former times all junks entering the
Bay of Yedo were stopped at Uraga for
inspection, and it was here that Com-
modore Perry anchored on the 8th July,
1853, bearing with him the letter of Pre-
sident Fillmore to the Shogun, the result
of which was to open J apan to foreign
intercourse.
Uraga is noted for its manu-
facture of mizu-ame, a sweet and
wholesome preparation from sake-
malt, somewhat resembling honey
in taste. It is worth while devoting
^ hr. to the climb up Atago-yama,
a hill at the back of Nishi Uraga,
close to the Yoshikawa Inn, com-
manding a fine view of the town
and harbour. The hiUs beyond the
sea to the E. are the Boshu range.
Uraga is in daily steam com-
munication with Tokyo, the
steamers touching at Eachiyama,
Tateyama, and other ports on the
Boshu side. The passage from
Tokyo takes about 4 hours.
It is a walk or jinrikisha ride
of 4 n 3 chd (10 miles) to Misaki,
first along the sands, and then over
a cultivated upland commanding
a fine view of Fuji, the Hakone
and Oyama ranges, and the op-
posite shores of the bay.
Misaki (Inns, Ki-no-kuni-ya, Ao-
yagi ; accommodation can also be
obtained at Jogashima) offers, as
a somewhat unusual attraction,
a Marine Biological Laboratory
(Misaki Rinkai Jikken-jo) connect-
ed with the Science College of
the Imperial University. The
marine fauna of this district being
particularly rich in rare forms,
dredging has produced results
highly interesting to the zoologist.
A lighthouse stands on the island
of Jogashima, 15 cho from the
mainland, with which it is con-
nected by a ferry.
One may complete the tour of
the Sagami Peninsula, at the ex-
tremity of which Misaki stands, by
a pleasant walk of about 7 ri (17
miles) along the coast to Dzushi or
Eamakura.
7. — The Caves op Totsuka.
XTaya no Ana.)
Though known to foreigners as
the Caves of Totsuka, these caves
Caves of TotsuJca. Oyama,
61
are really nearer to Ofuna, the
next station beyond Totsuka on
the Tokaido Railway, 40 min. run
from Yokohama. They lie_at a
distance of 12 or 15 cho from Ofuna
station, but nearly 1^ ri from
Totsuka station. Whichever sta-
tion it be decided to alight at, the
trip on to the caves can be done
by jinrikisha, and lies through
pretty scenery. The caves are well
worth a visit; but as they are
apt to be wet, it is advisable to
wear old clothes for the occasion.
The best time to choose is the
spring, as the cherry-trees too will
then be seen to advantage. Candles
are provided at a house near the
entrance, where also it would be
possible to picnic. A local guide
will point out the Buddhist carvings
with which the walls and ceilings
are adorned.
These caves with their carvings
are a monument of modern Bud-
dhist piety. Existing in embryo
since the Middle Ages (they are
said by tradition to have served
for the coneealment both of troops
and of treasure in the 14th cen-
tury), they have only been excavat-
ed to their present extent by an
old man still living — one Sato
Shichizaemon, also known as
Kinoue-no-Inkyo — whose family
have for generations been rich
peasants in this locality. In the
year 1851, this man was urged in a
dream to devote his life to making
these caves into an imperishable
shrine to various Buddhist divin-
ities, and especially to the Goddess
Benten. This he accordingly did
and still continues to do, employing
his own money for the enterprise
and local talent for the carvings.
Among the latter may be (Ss-
tinguished angels, dragons, lions,
birds both natural and mythical,
the Twelve Signs of the Zodiac, the
Eighteen Eakan, the Thirty-Three
Kwannon of the district of Chichi-
bu, and other Buddhas innumer-
able. To explore the caves pro-
perly takes about 1 hr. The
rock being quite soft, it may be
feared that this strange monument
will not prove as lasting as old
Mr. Sato piously anticipates.
8. — Otama.
This celebrated mountain, about
4,000 ft. high, is most easily reached
from Yokohama by alighting at
Hiratsuka station on the Tokaido
Eailway, a run of a little over 1
hr.;_thence by jinrikisha to the vill.
of Oyama on the lower slope, 3i
ri (9i miles) distant. It is a
favourite goal of pilgrims, who
continue to be attracted to its
shrine, although the old Buddhist
objects of worship have here, as
in so many other parts of the
country, been replaced officially
by comparatively obscure Shin-
to deities. Indeed, according to
Satow, it is uncertain who these
gods are; but the best authority
asserts that the chief deity is
Iwanaga-hime, sister to the god-
dess of Mount Fuji. The people
of the neighbouring country-side
often call the mountain by the
name of Sekison-san.
Jinrikishas are left at the vill. of
Koyasii (Iriri,Koma-ya), along street
of steps, which at its _ upper end
changes its name to Oyauia (Inn,
*Kame-ya, with curious garden).
Such of the inhabitants as do
not keep houses of entertainment
for the pilgrims who flock here
during the month of June, busy
themselves with the manufacture
of rosaries, toys, and domestic
utensils. The traveller wiU notice
that the posts of two shrines in
the village are so much cut away
in the centre as scarcely any
longer to support the roof. This
has been done by devotees who
believe that the chips act as
charms.
The ascent and descent of the
mountain take from 4 to 4^ hrs.,
but are far more fatiguing than
62
Eoute S, — Yokohama to Tokyo by RaiL
most climbs of the same length
owing to the multitude of steps.
A little way beyond the inns, a
stream rushes out of a hole in a
rocky wall some 20 ft. high, and
falls into a pool, in which it is con-
sidered highly meritorious to bathe
as long as the cold can be endured.
Some way further up, the en-
trance to the sacred domain is in-
dicated by a torii perched on the
top of a flight of steps. Here the
traveller has to choose between the
Otoho-zaka ('man's ascent'), and
Onna-zaka (* woman's ascent '), the
former a continuous series of steep
flights of high steps, the latter
longer but less fatiguing. Both
paths unite higher up. The view
from this point includes the plains
of Sagami and Musashi, with the
river Banyu, Capes Misaki and
Sunosaki at the entrance of
Tokyo Bay, the sea, and the moun-
tains of Kazusa. Some flights
of steps lead up to the main
temple, whence it is a climb of 28
cKq to the summit which commands
a view of Fuji, the wooded top of
Tanzawa, the mountains of Nikko,
Enoshima, etc.
9. — OlSO AND Kozu.
Oiso is 1 ^ hr. from Yokohama by
the Tokaido Railway. A pleasant
day may here be spent loitering on
the beautiful beach and bathing in
the sea. There is a lovely view : —
to the r., Fuji, the Hakone range,
and the peninsula of Izu : ahead,
Vries Island; to the 1., the pro-
montory of Misaki with the islet
of Enoshima. The Toryo-kwan at
Oiso is an excellent inn in Japanese
style, at which some simple Euro-
pean dishes, such as fried fish,
omelette, and chicken, may be
obtained, and where there is a
resident doctor.
Oiso, though apparently so in-
significant a place, is of consider-
able antiquity. Mention of it
occurs in the story of the Soga
Brothers* Revenge in the 12th
century (see Route 6).
Kozu (inn, Hayano), the station
beyond Oiso, is another pleasant
sea-side village, having much the
same view, and well-protected from
cold winter winds — an advantage
to which the groves of orange-
trees covering all the surrounding
slopes bear witness.
ROUTE 8.
Yokohama to ToktO bt Rail.
Distance
from
Yokohama.
Names
of
Stations.
BemarkB.
Um.
6i
7*
12
14f
18
YOKOHAMA.
Kanagawa.
Express mnn
through.
/Change carri-
ages for Sub-
• urban and
Northern Kail-
Vways.
Shimbashi St.
Kawasaki
Omori
Shinagawa
TOKYO
■ The railway journey from Yoko-
hama to Tokyo occupies 60 min.
The line skirts the shores of Tokyo
Bay, with the old Tokaido high-
way recognisable at intervals on
the r. by its avenue of pines. This
railway, built by English engineers
and finished in the autumn of 1872,
was the first line opened to traflBlc
in Japan.
Soon after leaving Yokohama,
the Tokaido Railway branches off 1.
Observe the fine view of Fuji near
the first station,
Eanagawa, once a noted post-
town on the Tokaido, and intimately
connected with the first settlement
of foreigners in this part of Japan.
(See p. 54.)
II
I
h
u
I
1
Route 4, — Tokyo.
68
Kawasaki (Inn, Asada-ya) is
noted for a temple situated If m.
from the station, dedicated to
Kobo Daishi and commonly known
as Daishi 8ama. So great is its
popularity tliat special trains are
run on the 21st of each month to
accommodate the crowds that visit
it. The greatest festival is on the
21st March, when the grounds are
filled with cheap staUs and itin-
erant shows. The temple possesses
some excellent carvings. The river
which is crossed just beyond Kawa>
saki is the Tamagawa or Kokugo,
the upper course of which is
romantically beautiful and is de-
scribed in !Boute 10. Between this
Station and the next, the Nikko
and Chichibu ranges come in view
ahead to the 1. On approaching
Omoii, the fine wooded blufi seen
1. is the site of the noted monastery
of Ikegami. Immediately above
the station lie the grounds of a
tea-house commanding a fine pro-
spect, and the range of the Imperial
Japanese_£ifle Club. The shell-
heaps of Omori discovered by Prof.
Morse have furnished interesting
prehistoric remains, which have
been the subject of vehement dis-
cussion among the learned. At
ShinagaTFa are seen the forts
built in the bay during the latter
days of the Shogunate, but now
dismantled because useless in
modern warfare. Just beyond the
Cras. Works, the line skirts r. the
prettily laid out garden of the Shiha
RikyO, one of the minor Imperial
palaces, and soon after, the train
enters the Shimbashi Terminus,
and the traveller is in Tokyo.
BOUTE 4.
Tokyo.
Tokyo, also called Tokei, former-
ly Yedo.
Hotels. — Imperial Hotel and To-
kyo Hotel, both centrally situated ;
Club Hotel, *in Tsukiji; Seiy6ken,
near the Shimbashi terminus, with
branch in Ueno Park. •
Japanese Inns. — Fushimi-ya, in
Koku-cho; Higuchi-ya, in Shiro-
kane-cho ; Karimame-ya, in Baku-
ro-cho, — all in the Nihon-bashi
district.
Restaurants. — (Foreign food) Fu-
getsu-do, near Shimbashi, with
confectionery shop ; Sanyen-tei,
in Shiba Park; Fujimi-ken, not
far from the British Legation ;
Mikawa-ya, in Kanda. — (Japanese
food) Taozen, at San-ya, Asakusa ;
Yaomatsu, at Mukojima; Hirasei,
in Fukagawa; Tokiwa-ya, in Yagen-
bori.
Tea-houses ('for entertainments in
Japanese style). — Nakamura-ro, at
Ryogoku ; Ibumura-ro, at Asakusa ;
0-un-tei, in Ueno Park.
Club. — The Tokyo Club, occupy-
ing a portion of the Hokumei-kwan,
6 min. from Shimbashi terminus.
Foreign Legations. — ^Austro Hun-
gary, 15, Kami Nibanch5 ; France,
1, lida-machi Itchome ; Germany,
14, Nagata-cho ; Great Britain, 1,
Kojimachi Gobancho ; Holland
(Denmark and Norway), 3, Shiba
Sakae-cho; Italy, 4, Sannen-cho;
Bussia, - 1, Ura-Kasumi-ga-seki ;
United States, 1, Akasaka Enoki-
saka.
General Post Office. — At Yedo-
bashi.
Central Telegraph Office. — In Ko-
biki-cho, near the Shimbashi ter-
minus. Sub-offices in various dis-
tricts of the city.
Telephone Exchange. — In No. 1
Eirakucho Nichome, with fifteen
Call Offices in the city.
Parks. — Shiba, Ueno, and Asa-
kusa.
liottle 4. — Tukyo.
[uteams. — Tto Hakubntm-kwaB,
TTeno Park ; Educational Mu-
am, in the Seido at Hougo ;
.iiseum of Arms, in the grounds
I the Shokouaba temple at Koji-
Puilic lilirarv— TheTosho-kwan,
n Ueno Park.
Chvxches. — Church of England, in
Shiba Sakae-choi AmerioBJi Epis-
lopal. Union Church (Protestant),
Soman Catholic, all in Taukiji;
jentralTaber»ac*e,inHong6; Eus-
lian Orthodox, at Suruga-dai.
Theaires.— Kahuki-za, in Kobiki-
•ho; Shintomi-za, inTsukiji; Na-
Wrestling. — At Eko-in, in Honjo,
^ce yearly for ten days in winter
ind spring. Also at other times
md places not fixed.
Boeoars {Kwankiia). — In Shiba
Park, and smaller ones in the
A Sailvyay, officially styled the
' TokjO and Akabane Juaction,"
tut generally known as the Sub-
irban or Circular Railway, afiorda
kn easy means of reai^hing certain
Ktints on the outskirts of the city.
I'he following is a schedule of the
itations \-^
s -i
Names
s^^
at
=i"°
SUCione.
SHIHBASHI.
"iSO.
n
SUiDjikn JcC.
iS^^cE'
\l\
Uajlro.
ItabflBbi.
i«i
AKABANE Jet.
Conveyamcea. — Jinrikishas are in
iniversal nae. Tramcara, not much
latrunised by Europeans, run from
he Shimbashi terminus along the
irincipal thoroughfare to Ueno
jld Asakusa, Omnibuses are be-
Parties may
Livery stahlet. — Eawanishi at
Monzflla-mae in Taukiji ; Nishi-
kaji at Nishiki-cho, Kanda, Itcho-
Steom Comtnunicoiion, — The com-
pany called the Tokyo Wan Kiaen-
Gwaisha runs steamers to Uraga
in tbe Misaki peninsula, and to
Kanaya, Kachiyama, Hojo, Tate-
jama, etc., on the other side of
TpkyoBaj. Twicfldaily, viz., 7 a.h.
and 8 A.u., taking 7 hrs. to reach
Tateyama.
2. The same company mns
steamers to Yawata and other
small ports at the head of the Bay
and to Eisarazn. Daily at 8 a.m.,
taking 4 hrs. to reach Kiaarazu.
3. Also to Ataani and Ajiro,
sometimes continuing on to Shi-
moda in the province of Izu. Sail-
ings iiregnlar. Tiiue, 8 brB. to
All the steamers of the above
company start from &eigan-jima.
TbeTsii-un Kwaisha runs steam-
era on the Tonegawa, of which
4. Those of the Shimo-Tone, or
Lower Tonegawa line, run to Cho-
shi, Ofonatau, and Uokoda, touch-
ing at various minor places on the
river. Daily at 7 p.k.
6. Those of the Kami-Tone, or
Upper Tonegawa line, run to Gyo-
toku, Ichikawa, Matsndo, Shin-
kawa, Sekiyado, Kurihashi, Eo^,
and minor points higher up. Datlj
at 8 p.B. Time, 14 hrs. to Koga.
The steamers of the Tsn-un.
Kwaisha start from Byo^oku-bashi.
The local steamers are but little
the
better class of Japanese, as they ai
small and make scant pretension
to comfort. There is not even
always a distinction of classes,
though it is sometimes possible to
secure a aeoarate room by paving
the price of fite tickets. The fares
are extremely low.
The following are some of the
Shops. Festicals,
65
cliief shops at which articles likely
to interest the tourist are sold : —
Porcelain. — Kawamoto, dealer in
Owari ware, at No. 6, Ginza Nicho-
me ; Imari, at Kanda Imagawa-
bashi, and Takahashi, at Nihon-
bashi Tomijima-cho, for various
kinds of ware.
Lacquer. — Saito Masakichi, at
No. 12, Ginza Nichome ; Nakamura
Kinosuke, at Kyobashi Owari-cho
!N"ich6me., Both the above deal in
gold lacquer, while the two follow-
ing sell various other kinds, pro-
vincial specialties, etc. : Kuroe-ya,
at Tori Itchome; Suruga-ya, in
Bakuro-cho.
Bronze. — Miyao, at No. 1, Nihon-
bashi Hon-Shirokane-cho (large
things) ; Mikawa-ya,at Soto-Kanda
Hatago-cho Itchome (chiefly small
things).
Cloisonne. — Namikawa, at No. 8,
Nihon-bashi Shin-emon-cho.
Swords. — Murata Kimbei, at
Nihon-bashi Kawasekoku-cho (also
sells other curios).
Ivory. — Wakatake, at No. 6, Ni-
hon-bashi Hisamatsu-ch5 ; Sawada-
ya, at No. 8, Ryogoku Yonezawa-
cho Nichome.
Paper and Fans. — Haibara, at No.
1, Nihon-bashi Tori Itchome.
Old Silk and Damask. — Iwamoto
Denshichi, at No. 16, Nihon-bashi
Kawasekoku-cho ; Morita, at No. 8,
Nihon-bashi Sanai-cho.
Curios in General. — Daizen, in
Naka-dori _(chiefly for expensive
articles) ; Osaka-ya, at No. 20, Ni-
hon-bashi Aomono-cho ; Ebi-ya, at
No. 5, Nihon-bashi Jikken-dana
(specialty, old lacquer) ; Handa-ya,
at No. 5, Nihon-bashi Honkoku-cho
Itchome.
8ilk Mercers. — Daimaru, in Hata-
go-cho ; Echigo-ya, in Muro-machi ;
Shiroki, in Tori Itchome; Mizu-
shima (also sells European articles
for presents), in Honcho Itchome,
— aU in the Nihon-bashi district.
There is also a very interesting
street called Naka-dori, running
parallel to the main thoroughfare
between Kyobashi and Nihon-
bashi, full of shops where old
curios and brocade are exposed for
sale. The best Bazaars (Kwan-
koha), where new articles of every-
day use may be bought are those
in Shiba Park, Ginza (Maruju no
Kwankoha), at Kanda Ogawa-machi,
and at Kudanzaka-shita.
Chief Popular Festivals.
DATE.
Monthly, 5th
Monthly, 10th
Monthly, 17-18th...
Monthly, 21st
Monthly, 24th
First Bay of the
Hare (hatsu-^) ...
April 17th
April 18th
May 6-8th
June 3rd
June3-14th
NAME OP FESTIVAL.
8uiten-gu
Konvpira
Kwannon
Daishi
Atago Jinja
Myokendo
Toshogu
8anja Matsuri
Shokonsha (races, etc.).
Kumano Jinja
Tenn^) Matsuri
Mid- July Kawa-hiraki (Opening
of the River)
July 7- 14th Tenno Matsuri
July 15th Sanno
WHERE HELD.
Kakigara-cho.
Tora-no-mon.
Asakusa.
Kawasaki.
Atagoshita.
Yanagi-shima.
Shiba and Ueno Parks.
Asakusa.
Kudan.
ligura and Aoyama.
Shinagawa, Yotsuya, Asa-
kusa, Senji.
Ryogoku.
Nakabashi.
Nagata-cho.
66
Route 4, — Tokyo.
DATE.
NAME OF FESTIVAL.
WHEBE HELD.
July loth Hikawa Jivja Akasaka.
July 15th Hachiman Nagata-chd.
September 1 l-20th.. Shimmei Matsuri Shiba.
September 13th . . . Ushijima no Jinja Mukojima.
September 14-1 6th.. Kanda Myojin Kanda.
October 12-13th ... 0 Eshihi (Anniversary
of Nichiren's death)... Ikegami and Hori-no-uchi.
October 15th Karvda Myojin Kanda.
November 6-8th ... S?idfc<m8?ia, (races, etc.)... Kudan.
November 22-28th. . 0 Kd Mairi Monzeki temple at Asakusa.
November (on Days
of the Bird, tori
n^ hi) Tori no machi Asakusa.
Akin to the popular festivals (matsuri) are the following fairs (ichi),
held at the close of the year for the citizens to make seasonable
purchases : —
December 13th Tenno Sama Shinagawa.
December 15th Hachiman Fukagawa.
December 17-I9th... Kwannon Asakusa.
December 20-21st. . . Kanda Myojin Kanda.
December 22-23rd.. . Shimmei Shiba.
December 23-24th... Atago Atagoshita.
December 25th Tenjin , Hirakawa.
December 27-28th... Fvdo Yagen-bori.
Flowers.
Flum - blossoms. — The Kameido
Ume-yashiki and the Kamata Ume-
yashiki near Kawasaki, at end of
January and beginning of Fe-
bruary.
Cherry-blossoms. — Ueno, Muko-
jima, and Shiba, early in April j
Koganei, middle of April.
Peonies. — Florists* gardens at So-
mei, end of April; Shokwa-en in
Azabu, beginning of May.
Wistarias, — Kameido, first week
in May.
_ Aealea^s. — Florists' gardens at
Okubo-mura, early in May.
Irises. — Horikiri beyond Muko-
jima, early in June.
Convohmli. — Florist's gardens at
Iriya in Shitaya, end of July and
beginning of August.
LotiLs-fiowers. — Lake Shinobazu
at Ueno and the Castle moats, be-
ginning of August.
Chrysanthemums. — Dango-zaka
and Asakusa, beginning of Novem-
ber.
Maples. — Kaianji at Shinagawa,
beginning of November; Oji, mid-
dle of November.
Principal Places Worth Visiting. —
Shiba and Ueno Parks (Tombs of
the Tokugawa Shoguns in both,
the former most easily accessible).
Temple of Kwannon at Asakusa,
Hakubutsu-kwan Museum at Ueno,
the Kwankoba Bazaar in Shiba,
Atago Tower for view of the city.
Drive along the main street {Chin-
za) to Nihon-bashi and round the
inner moat.
Time to Chief Points by jinrikisha
with two men.
From Shimbashi terminus to : —
Imperial Hotel 5 Min.
Tokyo Hotel 7
Club Hotel 12
Rokumei-kwan 5
British Legation 18
American Legation 10
Shiba Park 10
Ueno Park 35
Asakusa (Kwannon) 40 „
*»
»
>f
»
»>
it
y»
History and Topography,
67
History awd TopoaiLLPHT. — Previous
to its becoming the military capital of
Japan in the year 1590, Yedo was little
more than a rude fortress surrounded by
a fe*^ scattered villages. This fortress
was founded in 14&6 by a certain Ota
Dokwan. From 1486 to 1624, it was held
by vassals of the Uesugi family, but in
the latter year was taken from them *by
H9j5 Ujitsuna, who was then rising to be
roler of the Eastern provinces, and had his
capital at Odawara, close to the foot of
the Hakone pass. In the 13th century, the
the district now called Asakusa stood
on tlie sea-shore, at the mouth of a con-
siderable inlet. The name Yedo means
* Estuary Grate.* At the time leyasu took
possession in 1690, the coast on the E. side
of the river had advanced greatly below
Asakusa ; but large lagoons still occupied
areas which have since been filled up and
bnilt over. Ota D5kwan's fortress occupied
a portion of the ground which was later
included in the Palace of the Shoguns and
now in that of His Majesty the Emperor.
The Shdgnn's Palace, or Castle as it was
often called, was several times burnt
down and rebuilt, and was totally de-
stroyed by a fire which took place on the
17th July, 1863. A separate building in
the enclosure which had been the resid-
ence of the heir-apparent to the Shogun-
ate, was appropriated for the Emperor's
use after the removal of H. M. to Tokyd
in 1868. But this too, was burnt down on
the night of the 5th May, 1873. From that
time forward the Emperor occupied the
Palace at Aoyama, now inhabited by the
Crown Prince, until the construction on
the old site in 1889 of a new Palace, semi-
Japanese and semi-foreign iu style. Yedo
has been repeatedly visited by destructive
fires. In 1601 the whole city was laid in
ashes. At that time all the houses were
thatched with grass, the use of tiles not
having been allowed to the citizens titl
the middle of the 17th century. Great
fires occuired in 1657 and again in
166B. The greatest conflagration in more
modem times took place in 1845. In
1603 a large part of the hill now called
Buruga Dai was cut away, and the soil
used to fill up four square miles of shallow
inlets on the S. side of the town. The
same year witnessed the contruction of
the great bridge, Nihon-bashi, from which
distances have since been measured along
the chief roads of the Empire. In 1642, a
regulation was made whereby the Daimy os
were obliged to reside alternately in Yedo
and on their domains for certain fixed
periods. A map dated 1632 shows that^the
greater part of what now forms the Kyoba-
shi district, including Tsukiji, was re-
claimed from the sea subsequent to that
date. Up to about the year 1650, the towns-
people depended for their water supply on
the stream from Kanda-yama and the lake
of Tame-ike ; but shortly afterwards an
aqu^uct was constructed on the N. side to
bring water from the I-no-kashira, Zem-
pukuji, and MyoshO-ji lakes, as well as
from the Tamagawa into the city. In 1653,
the Tamagawa aqueduct, which enters the
city by way of Yotsuya, was constructed,
its length being about 27 miles.
In 1660, the first theatre was built in
Kobiki-cho by one Morita Kan-ya, whose
name has been borne by successive gene-
rations of impreKtri. The history of
the city for the most part consists
of a succession of earthquakes, fires, ty-
phoons, epidemics, fioods, and droughts.
The year 1703 was marked by a great
earthquake; it is said that on this
occasion the deaths in Yedo alone were
37,000. An epidemic which raged in 1773
is stated to have carried off 190,000 per-
sons, chiefly of the lower classes. On the
11th November, 1855, the last great earth-
quake occurred, when the loss of life was
computed at 100,000 persons. But recent
investigations have shown that this was
a gross exaggeration.
On the 13th September, 1868, the desig-
nation of the city was changed to Tokyd
or Tokei, either being a correct way of
pronouncing the two Chinese characters
JSC^ which are used in writing the name,
the signification of which is 'Eastern
Capital,' given in contradistinction to
SaikyS, Q^, or 'Western Capital,' ap-
filied at the same time to Kydto.
n November of the same year the
Mikado visited Tokyo for the first time,
and it became the recognised seat of
Grovemment on the 26th March, 1869. A
great change has since taken place in the
outward appearance of the city. Most of
the yathiki, or mansions of the territorial
nobility, have been pulled down to make
room for new buildings better adapted to
modem needs. At the same time, the
disappearance of the two-sworded men, the
supersession of the palanquin (kaqo) by
the jinrikisha, the very general adoption
of foreign dress, and the European style
of dressing the hair which is now almost
universal among the men, have robbed
the streets of the picturesqueness for-
merly so attractive to the foreign visitor.
The construction dl buildings in European
style dates from about 1872. TSkyo was
thrown open to foreign travel in 1869,
but not to foreign residence. Tsukiji, the
foreign concession (Kyoryii-chi)^ is still
the only quarter in which foreigners can
hold land.
The city is divided for administrative
purposes into fifteen districts (Ku)^ viz : —
I, Koji-machi. 2, Kanda, 3, Nihon-bashi, 4,
Kyo-bashi. 5, SMba. 6, Azabu. 7, Akasaka.
8, Yotsuya. 9, Ushigome. 10, Koishikawa.
II, Hongo, 12, Shitaya. 18, Asakusa. 14,
Honjo. 15, Fukagawa. The principal
suburbs are Shinagawa S., on the Tokai-
d6 ; Naito Shinjiku W,, on the Chichibu
road ; Itabashi N.W., on the Nakasendd ;
and Senji N. E., on the Osha Kaid9.
Toky5 is popularly estimated to cover
an area or four ri in every direction, in
63
Route 4. — Tokyo.
other worda, a hundred square miles.
The population is officially stated to be,
in round numbers, 1,889,000, but this
includes the whole metropolitan district
(lohyo FuJ. The city proper has only
90(»,f>00. TokyS was connected by railway
with Yokohama in the autumn of 1872 ;
horse tramways were laid along the main
thoroughfares in 1882; the first electric
lighting company was farmed in 18S6,
and a telephone exchange was opened in
liiiiO. In the same year, a short electrical
railway was laid within the grounds of
the Ueno Park. Three great Industrial
Exhibitions have been held in Tokyo, the
first in 1877, and the last in 189«). The
buildings of the Imperial Diet, inaugurated
in November, 1890, were burnt down two
months later. A plan of city improvement
has recently been adopted,in consequence
of which the narrower streets of any dis-
trict burnt down are widened, and better
sanitary arrangements introduced.
Owing to the shape and the vast
extent of the city, it is impossible
to^combine all the chief sights in a
single round. The best plan is to
take them in groups, according to
the direction in which they lie.
The following description proceeds
on this principle.
1. — The Kwankoba. Shiba Park.
Temples and Tombs op the Sho-
GUNs. Zempukuji. The Fortt-
8EVEN BONINS. NyORAIJI. AtA-
GO-YAMA.
From the Shimbashi Railway
terminus, a long narrow street,
called Hikage-cho at the beginning
and 8himmei-mae at the end, leadS
to Shiba Park, and is worth stroll-
ing along for the sake of the shops.
Passing through the Daimon or
* Great Gate', we turn through the
park r. to the Kwankoba, the best
bazaar in Tokyo, where all prices
are fixed, and every sort of article
used in the daily life of the Japanese
people may be obtained.
Shiba Park {Shiba E:oenehi) formed,
till 1877, the gfrounds of the great Bud-
dhist temple of Zo/6ji, the head-quarters
in this city of the Jodo sect. Here are still
presei-ved the Mortuary Temples (Go Itei-
va) of several of the Tokugawa Shoguns,
leyasu, the founder of that dj'uasty and
of Yedo, having taken ZojSji under his
special protection, and chosen it as the
temple where the funeral tablets {ihai) of
himself and his descendants should be
preserved. The monastery had been
originally founded in 1398, but was re-
moved in 1696 to the present site. The
partial transfer of the temple to the Shin-
tOists, in 1873, naturally led to friction
between them and the Buddhists, the
gravest consequence of which was the
destruction by fire of the magnificent
main buildingr on the 1st January, 1874. It
has lately been replaced by a new build-
ing, smaller and much less beautiful.
Only the large gate (Mmmon) remains just
as it was built in 1623. This temple,
which is used for popular worship, must
not be mistaken for one of the Mortuary
Temples.
The following is a list of the Tokugawa
Shoguns. Those whose names are marked
with an asterisk are buried at Ueno, at
the opposite end of Tokyo ; those whose
names have a dagger prefixed lie at
NikkO, 100 miles to the N. of Tokyo, and
the others at Shiba.
PEBSOn-AL POSTHUMOUS DIED
NAME. TITLE. A.O.
1.
2.
8.
4.
5.
6.
7.
8.
9.
10.
11.
12.
13.
14.
15.
tieyasu TOshogll 1616
Hidetada Taitokuin 1682
tiemitsu Taiyain 1661
•letsuna (Jen-ynin 1680
♦Tsunayoshi ...Joken-in 1709
lenobu Bunshoin 1713
letsugu Yashoin 1761
•Yoshimune ...Yatokuin 1761
leshige Junshin-in 1761
♦leharu Shimmeiin 1786
♦lenari Bunkyoin 1841
leyoshi Sbintokuin 1853
•lesada Onkyoin 1858
lemochi Shotokuin 1866
Yoshinobu (usually called Keiki),
still living at Shizuoka in Suruga.
. The Shiba Temples, which are
among the chief marvels of Japa-
nese art, should, if possible, be
visited on the forenoon of a fine
day. Otherwise their situation, and
the black boarding which has been
put up to ward off the attacks of
the weather, will interfere with a
proper enjoyment of their minutely
elaborate decorations. They may
best be taken in the following
order. Persons pressed for time
might limit themselves to an in-
spection of the temple and tomb
(Octagonal Shrine) of the 2nd
Shogun only (See p. 72).
The entrance to the Mortuary
Chapels of letsugu and leshige,
the 7th and 9th Shoguns, is
immediately opposite the Kwan-
Shibii Temples.
69
koba. A highly ornamented gate
called the Ni-Ten Mon, or ' Gate
of the Two Deva Kings/ leads
into a court containing nume-
rous stone lanterns offered by
Daimyos as a mark of respect tc>
the memory of their deceased lord
and master, the Shogunf At the
opposite end of the court is the
ChoJcu-gahu Hon, or 'Gate of the
Imperial Tablet/ so called from a
tablet hung over the lintel, con-
taining in gold letters the post-
burnous name of the 7th Shogun
in the fac-simile of the hand-
writing of the Mikado known to
history as Naka-no-Mikado-no-In
(d. 1737). This gate is remarkable
for its pillars with dragons twisted
round them, originally gilt over a
coating of red oxide of iron. Pass-
ing through this gate, we enter an
inner court lined with bronze
lanterns, two hundred and twelve
in all, dating some from A.B.
1716, some from 1761, also the
gift of Daimyos, and having r. a
belfry and 1. a cistern for holy
water. Hence through a third
gate called the 0 Kara Hon, on either
side of which stretches a gallery
with beautifully painted carvings
of flowers and birds in the panels.
Observe the angel on the ceiling,
the work of Kano Bydsetsu. A
short colonnade of black pUlars
edged with gold leads to the por-
tico of the temple, where, among
other marvels of carving, are two
dragons, called ' the ascending and
descending dragons ' (Nohori-ryu
and Kudari-ryu), serving as beams
to connect the temple with two
pillars outside.
Up to this point the public has
free admittance. Those desirous
of seeing the interior of the temple,
together with the tombs, must
apply to the custodian, and pay
Mm on departing a fee of 20 cents
per head. Boote must of course
be removed before entering. These
observations hold good at all the
other Mortuary Temples. The
visitor is led directly into the
sanctum containing the altar. And
here be it observed that each
of these Mortuary Temples con-
sists of three parts, — an outer
oratory (haiden), a connecting gal-
lery ot corridor (ai-no-ma) , and an
inner sanctum (honden). In each
of these one finds oneself in a
blaze of gold, colours, and elaborate
arabesques, which, especially if the
day be fine, quite dazzle the eye by
their brilliancy. In feudal times,
when the Shogun came to worship
the spirits of his ancestors, he
alone ascended to the sanctum,
the greater Daimyos ranged them-
selves next to him in the corridor
below, whUe the lesser nobility
occupied the oratory.
The altar of this temple is separa-
ted from the corridor by one of those
bamboo blinds bound with sUk,
which, together with a peculiar
kind of banner, temper the bril-
liancy of the other decorations.
The sanctum contains three double-
roofed shrines of the most gorgeous
gold lacquer, picked out with body-
colour below the eaves, and held
together by costly and elaborate
metal-work. That to the r. con-
tains a wooden image of the father
of the 6th Shogun, that in the
middle an image of the 7th Sh5-
gun, and that to the 1. one of the
9th Shogun, together with the
funeral tablets of each. The images,
which are considered sacred be-
cause presented by Mikados, are
never shown. On either side of
each shrine stand wooden statu-
ettes of the 8M Tenno, who, accord-
ing to the Buddhist mythology,
guard the world against the at-
tacks of demons. In front are
Kwannon and Benten. The wall
at the back is gilt, while the altar
and two tables in front are of
splendid red lacquer. In innu-
merable places may be seen the
three-leaved Asarum or Kamo-aoi,
which is the crest of the Toku-
gawa family, and the lotus, the
70
Route 4, — Tokyo.
Buddhist emblem of purity. The
altar is protected at night by
massive gilt gates ornamented
with the family crest and conven-
tional flowers. Descending into
the corridor, and noticing a« we
pass the gorgeous panelling of the
ceiling, we reach the oratory,
where the decorations are on a
similar scale of magnificence. Ob-
serve the conventional paintings
of lions on the wall. Under the
baldachin sits on festival days
(12th and 13th of each month,
when visitors are not admitted) the
abbot of Zojoji, while the priests
are ranged around at small
lacquer tables. The lacquer boxes
on the latter contain scrolls of
the Buddhist Scriptures. As the
guide leads the way from the
temple to the tombs, observe
on the eaves the carvings of
musical instruments, lions, dra-
gons, etc. Observe, too, the car-
vings of unicorns (kirin) on the
Oshir-hwi Hon, or * Dividing Gate,'
which is now passed through.
Although the carving is open-
work, the dragons appear quite
different according to the side
from which they are viewed.
Thence through a noble court
with more bronze lanterns, to a
stone staircase which leads up
to the site of the Tombs, — that
of the 7th Shogun to the 1., that
of the 9th Shogun to the r. Below
each tomb is a highly decorated
oratory. The tombs are of stone,
in the shape called hdto (treasure
shrine), which somewhat resembles
a pagoda. They stand on an octa-
gonal granite base, with a stone
balustrade. Their simplicity con-
trasts strongly with the lavish
magnificence of all that goes be-
fore. As Mitford says in his
* Tales of Old Japan/ ' the sermon
may have been preached by design,
or it may have been by accident,
but the lesson is there.'
The pattern on the black copper
facing round the wail enclosing
the tomb, is intended to represent
the waves of the sea. The body
is said to be buried at a depth of
20 ft., and to have been coated
with vermilion and charcoal pow-
der to prevent decay. The tomb
of the 9th Shogun is a replica of
that of the 7th. On leaving this
place, we pass the oratory of the
9th Shogun, and notice the exqui-
site carvings in high relief of pea-
cocks on the panels of the gate.
Leaving this temple by the Cho'
hi-gaku Jfon, and turning r. through
rows of stone lanterns, we soon
reach r. another splendidly carved
gate, which gives access to the
temple and tombs of the 6th, 12th,
and 14th Shoguns. In arrange-
ment, the temple closely resembles
the one we have just left; but
the gilt is fresher, the carvings
truer to nature, and the general
impression more magnificent, the
result perhaps of the interest
taken by the 6th Shogun in the
preparation of his own last resting
place. The flowers and birds in
the spaces between the cornice and
the Untel of the oratory are per-
fect, both in chiselling and in de-
licacy of colour. The coffered ceil-
ing is a masterpiece ; and the
vista of the altar, as one stands
under the baldachin, reveals an in-
describable glory of blended gold
and colours. The order of the
shrines on the altar is, from r. to
]., that of the 12th, 6th, and 14th
Shoguns, the shrine of the last
containing also the funeral tablet
of his consort.
From the Mortuary Temple, a
flight of steps at the back leads up
to the tombs of these three Sho-
guns and of the consort of the
14th, who was aunt to the pre-
sent Mikado, and after the death
of her husband bore the title of
Sei-kwan-In-no-Miya. Her funeral
in 1877 was the last performed in
these precincts. Each tomb has a
small oratory attached. The fine
Shiba Temples.
71
bronze gate of the enclosure of No.
6, which is the first tomb reached,
is- said to be the work of Korean
artificers; bnt the design was
probably furnished by a Japanese
draughtsman. The dragons in low
relief on the r. and 1., both inside
and out, are especially worthy of
attention. Next to it is the tomb
of the 12th Shogun, and beyond it
again those of the 14th and hip
consort. The tomb of this princess
is of bronze and marked by the
Imperial crest, the sixteen-petalled
chrysanthemum.
Quitting the grounds of this
Mortuary Temple by a small side
door to the r., we turn down 1. to
the main road, and enter the grounds
of the Monastery of Zojoji by the
big gate. To the r. is a small shrine
d^Licated to the 'Five Hundred
Bakan,' having in front of it a
stone with the imprint of Buddha's
feet, which are of phenomenal size.
On the 1. are the temple offices
(jimusho). In front is the main
temple of Zojoji, restored outwardly
in the plainest style, but spacious
within. The large gilt image of
Amida enthroned on the altar is
from the chisel of the famous
Buddhist abbot and artist Eshin.
The temple possesses many objects
of artistic and historical interest,
but they are not generally shown.
The little temple at the back of
Zojoji, in the same brilliant style
of decoration as the Mortuary
Temples, is called Ookoku-den. It
contains the Kuro-Honzon or ' Black
Image', a statuette of Amida by
Eshin, which is noteworthy on
account of the veneration in which
it was held by leyasu, who used to
carry it about with him in his cam-
paigns, and ascribe his victories to
its influence. Admittance to the
Ookohu-den is gained through the
priests' house to the 1. The Black
Image, which is not shown save on
great occasions^ is enclosed in a
handsome gold reliquary. Another
reliquary contains smaU marble
images of the Sixteen Eakan.
Observe the curious plate-shaped
ornaments above the pillars in front
of the altar, with the Buddhist gods
Shaka, Monju, and Fugen, and at-
tendant animals in high relief.
The bold paintings of hawks
around the walls recall leyasu's
fondness for hawking. The fine
bronze image of Shaka outside
dates from 1763.
Such unprotected statues are called in
Japanese by the rather irrevent name of
* Wet Baints ' (nure-hotoke). The thin
sticks inscribed with Sanskrit characters
which stand behind it, are termed toha
or^ totoba, a corruption of the Sanskrit
stupa ('tope'), originally a monument
erected over the remains of a saint. The
notches in the wood represent the ball,
crescent, pyramid, sphere, and cube of the
complete xtujia, which are emblematic of
Ether, Air, Fire, Water, and Earth. One
glance at a $otoba is said to ensure the
forgiveness of all sins.
Coming down from Gokoku-den,
and leaving the Zojoji enclosure
by an opening to the r., we next
reach the Mortuary Temple at-
tached to the tombs of the consorts
of the 2nd, 6th, 11th, and 12th
Shoguns. Admittance is by the
priests' house to the 1. Though
the oratory is plainer than those
already described, the altar is by
no means less splendid. Gilded
gates, gilded panelling, huge gilded
pillars, — everything sparkles with
gold, while the shrines on the altar
are the most magnificent specimens
extant of a peculiar kind of lacquer
adorned with metal-work. Their
order is, from r. to 1.* the consorts
of the 12th, 6th. 2nd, and 11th
Shoguns, while to the extreme 1.
corner is that of the concubine of
the 5th. The coffered ceiling,
decorated with the phoenix in
various colours, is specially fine.
From this temple, we pass into
the court of that attached to the
tomb of the 2nd Shogun. Entrance
through the priests' house to the
right. The sanctum is a grand
72
Route 4. — Tokyo.
example of Japanese religious ar-
chitecture. Two huge gilded pillars
called daijin-hashiraf r. and 1. of
the altar, support the lofty vaulted
roof, curiously constructed of a
network of beams. The upper part
of the walls is decorated with large
carved medallions of birds in high
relief, richly painted and gilt. The
shrine is of fine gold lacquer, about
250 years old, and the tables in
front deserve inspection. The
bronze incense-burner in the form
of a lion dates from 1635. leyasu's
war-drum rests in a large orna-
mental stand. The coffers in the
ceilings are filled with fret-work
«over lacquer.
A short and pretty walk through
the wood at the back leads to the
Hakkaku-dd, or Octagonal Hall, con-
taining the tomb of the 2nd Sho-
gun, which is the largest specimen
of gold lacquer in the world and
one of the most magnificent. Parts
of it are inlaid with enamel and
crystals. The scenes on the upper
half represent the * Eight Views '
of Siao-Siang in China and of Lake
Biwa in Japan, while the lower
half is adorned with the lion and
peony, the king of beasts and the
king of flowers. The base is of stone
shaped like a lotus-flower. The
shrine contains only an effigy of
the Shogun and his funeral tablet,
the actual body being beneath the
pavement. The interior walls of
the hall are of lacquer gilded over.
Eight pillars covered with gilt
copper plates support the roof.
Outside this building are two
curiously carved stones djEbting from
1644. The subject of one is Shaka's
Entry into NirvAna, and of the
other the Five-and-twenty Bosatsu
coming with Amida to welcome
the departed soul. The oratory in
front of the 'Octagonal Shrine*
contains nothing worthy of notice.
DescendingagaintotheMortuary
Temple, and passing through its
two gates, the visitor turns sharp
to the r. through a third gate, and
follows a stone walk lined with
cherry-trees to a torii, standing
in front of the temple of AnkokU'
den. Here, on the 17th of every
month, a popular festival is held in
honour of leyasu, who is worshipped
as a Shinto deity under the name
of Toshogu. Constructed when
Buddhism was dominant, this tem-
ple is architecturally as highly
ornamented as the rest, the pre-
sent influence of the Shinto cult
being indicated only by the paper
symbols (gohei) in the oratory,
which also contains a large bronze
mirror and two gilt amor-inu. The
sanctum (admittance through the
shamusho or temple office to the r.)
stands behind, in a separate en-
closure. The coffered ceiling is
very good, as are the hawks and
birds of paradise on a gold ground
in the panels round the interior.
Specially excellent is a painting
by Kano Hogen at the back of the
altar, representing Shaka attended
by Monju and Fugen. The shrine
is about 4 ft. high, with an
elaborate cornice of three rows of
brackets ; . and its walls are of
splendid gold lacquer with raised
designs. In front, on the door-
panels, are eight small landscapes,
in which a dragon is seen descend-
ing through the clouds on either
hand. At the sides are boldly
designed groups of the pine and
bamboo. Inside is a life-like
wooden effigy of leyasu, which can
be seen only on the 17th day of the
month.
The big wooden building in
European style, nearly opposite the
entrance to Ankoku-den, is called
Tayoi-sha, and is used for holding
meetings of various kinds.
A visit to Shiba may be termi-
nated by walking up Maruyama,
the little hiU at the back, which
commands a pretty view of the
bay. Close to the pagoda, which is
not open to the public, stands a
monument erected in 1890 to the
Forty-seven Ronins. Akasukci atid Azahu.
78
xnemory of Ino Chukei, the father
of Japanese cartography, who flour-
ished in the 18th century. Thence
one descends to the little Tem'pU
of Benten, picturesquely situated
on an islet in a lake overgrown
-with lotuses. Further back in the
"wood stands the Koyo-kwan, or
* Maple Club/ where fine entertain-
ments in native style are given.
Shiba is specially lovely in early
April, when the cherry-trees are in
flower.
About 1 m. from the Shiba tem-
ples in the direction of Shinagawa,
stands the Buddhist temple of
Sengakujiy where the Forty-seven
^Ronins (Shi-ju-shichi Ki) lie buried.
(For their dramatic story, see
• Things Japanese,' p. 126. A more
detailed account is given in Mit-
ford's'Talesof OldJapan'). Thewell
(Kvbi-arai ido), where the Eonins
washed the head of the foe on whom
they; had taken vengeance, still
exists by the side of the path lead-
ing to the tombs, which are ranged
round the sides of a small squafre
court. That in the further corner
is the grave of Oishi Euranosuke,
the leader of the faithful band;
and the monument next to his, on
the other side of the stone fence,
marks the grave of the lord for
whose sake he and his comrades
sacrificed their lives. The popular
reverence for these heroes is attest-
ed by the incense_ perpetually kept
burning before Oishi's grave, and
by the visiting cards left there at
New- Year time. Painted statuettes
of the * Forty-seven ' are exhibited
in a building below.
A little nearer Shinagawa stands
Nyoraiji, a Buddhist temple dedi-
cated to the 'Five Buddhas of
Wisdom,* whose gigantic images,
carved in A.D. 1635, are here en-
shrined.
On the way back, one may obtain
a good view by ascending Kiri-
shvmor-yama, a wooden structure 100
ft. high, close to the railway line,
erected in ] 890 as a model of the
celebrated mountain of the same
name in Kyushu. Or else one may
go up Atago-yama, a natural hill
a little to the N. of Shiba Park,
named after the higher Mount
Atago at Kyoto. Atago-yama,
like many other such places in
Japan, has two flights of steps lead-
ing up it, one of which, called * the
men's staircase,' is straight and
steep, while the other, or * women's
staircase,' is circuitous but less
fatiguing. A tower has recently
been erected on Atago-yama, which
visitors should pay a trifling fee to
ascend. The view_includes Fuji,
the Hakone range, Oyama, Mitake,
Mount Tsukuba, the provinces
beyond Tokyo Bay with Kano-zan
and Nokogiri-yama, and of course
Tokyo itself.
2. — Akasasa and Azabu.
AkaAaka and Azabu are the
highest and healthiest parts of
Tokyo, but contain little of interest
to the tourist. In a part of Akasaka
called Aoyama, is situated the
palace occupied for many years by
the Mikado while the present
palace was building, and now
by the Empress Dowager and
the Crown Prince. It is not open
to the public; but the 4Ute of
Tokyo society is invited there once
yearly in November, to witness
what is perhaps the most wonderful
show of chrysanthemums in the
world. Closely adjoining it, is an
immense parade ground, where the
great annual review on the Mi-
kado's birthday (3r4 November) is
held. A little further to the S. is
the Aoyama Cemetery, part of
which has been set apart for the
interment of foreigners.
On the borders of Akasaka and
Azabu stands the Shinto temple of
Hikawa, now much neglected, but
remarkable for the antiquity of its
first foundation (7th century).
Opposite the entrance is the house
74
Route 4, — Tokyo,
inhabited by Sir Edwin Arnold
in 1689-90, while composing his
beautiful poem, *The Light of the
World/
ZempuJcuji, a temple of the Monto
sect, dates from A.D. 1232, and is
somewhat striking. The main hall
of the temple is ^ ft. square. The
pillars supporting the roof are
massive and unadorned, save by a
few touches of white paint on the
capitals, in accordance with the
usual practice of the sect. The
screen dividing the nave from the
chancel, as also the altar itself, are
good specimens of florid ornamen-
tation in gold and colours. The
temple re.ics are exhibited from
the 1 st to 6th November. In the
court yard stands an enormous Icho
tree known as the * Staff Icho.'
Local tradition says that when Shinran
SliOfiin, the founder of the Monto sect,
was about to depart for Kyoto and bade
adieu to RyOkai, the apostle of the sect
in Eastern Japan, he stuck his staff upside
down into the ground, saying, ' Like this
staff shall be the strenjc^h of the faith and
the salvation of the people,' upon which
the staff immediately began to take root
and sprout upwards.
3. — Chief Buildings in Koji-
MACHi. The Diet. Sanno.
Okubo's Monument. Shokon-
SHA.
Leaving Shimbashi station and
turning 1. along the moat, the
buildings of the Imperial Diet, if re-
constructed as proposed on the site
where the original edifice was burnt
down in 1891, will be seen beyond
the embankment on the other side.
The fine brick buildings soon passed
r. were completed in 1877 for the
College of Engineering, the earliest
scientific academy established in
Japan, and presided over by British
professors. Since the amalgama-
tion of this College with the Im-
perial University in 1886, the
buildings have been used for
various purposes, a portion of them
being temporarily appropriated to
the meetings of the Lower House
of the Diet.
Turning along the moat r., we
come to a stretch of fiat ground,
which was till recently a swamp
called Tame-ike. On the hill to
the r. is the mansion of Marquis
Nabeshima, formerly Prince of
Hizen and now Grand Master of
Ceremonies at the Imperial Court.
In front is the prettily wooded
eminence on which stands the Shin-
to Temple of Sanno, officially styled
Hie no Jinja. Dating in its present
form from 1654, it was adopted by
the Shoguns of the Tokugawa
dynasty as their tutelary shrine.
The situation is pretty, and the
place is seen to advantage in
spring, when the cherry-trees are
in flower; but all the buildings
except the main temple are falling
into decay. In each of the inner
compartments of the large gate
stands an image of a monkey orna-
mented with a bib, that animal
being regarded as the servant of
the divinity of Hie, for which reason
monkeys also figure on the altar.
This neighbourhood, of which
the chief part is called Na^ata-cho,
is one of the most fashionable in
Tokyo. Here stand the palaces of
Princes Kita Shirakawa and Ari-
sugawa, and the residences of
many high officials and foreign
diplomats. Hence in local par-
lance, it is sometimes nicknamed
Daimnfd Koji, or the * Daimyo
Quarter.' Below Prince Kita Shi-
rakawa's Palape is the Kioi-cho
Eoenchi, a small public garden
containing a huge monolith com-
memorative of Okubo Toshimichi,
one of the founders of the new
order of things in Japan, who was
assassinated near this spot on the
14th May, 1878, as he was driving
from his residence to the Imperial
Palace. On the top of the hill of
Eudan, a short way beyond the
British Legation, stands the
modern Shinto temple of Yasukuni,
better known as the
Shokonsha, Imperial PaUice.
75
Shokonsha^ or Spirit-Invoking
Shrine.
This temple was erected in 1869 for the
worship of the spirits of those who had
fallen fighting for the Mikado's cause in
the revolutionary war of the previous
year. Services are also held in honour of
thoee who fell in the Saga troubles of 1873,
and in the Satsuma rebellion of 1877.
The Shokonsha is huilt in ac-
cordance with the severest canons
of pure Shinto architecture, and is
completely empty except for a
mirror, a European drugget, and
a dozen cheap wooden chairs for
the use of the officials who come to
assist at the memorial services
which are held from time to time,
the principal ones being on the
6th May and 6th November. These
occasions are enlivened by horse-
races, wrestling, and other amuse-
ments which draw a large concourse
of spectators. The enormous
bronze torii was set up in-December,
1887.
The grounds behind the temple
have been tastefully laid out, and
look their best in early spring
when the plum-trees are in blossom.
The brick building to the r. of
the temple is the Yushu-kwan, a
Museum of Arms, which is open
on Sundays, Wednesdays, and
Saturdays, from 8 a.m. till 6 p.m.
in summer, and from 9 to 3 in
winter. It is well-worth a visit, for
the sake of the magnificent speci-
mens of old Japanese swords and
scabbards which it contains, as well
as armour, old Korean bronze can-
non, etc. The granite lanterns
lining the avenue which runs down
the centre of the race-course, were
presented by the nobility in 1878.
Leaving the grounds of the Sho-
konsha, we come to an ancient
stone beacon, which formerly light-
ed junks on their way up Tokyo Bay.
Opposite to it, stands a monument
in the shape of a bayonet, erected
in 1880 by the soldiers of the Im-
perial Guard, in memory of their
comrades who has fallen fighting
on the loyalist side in the Satsuma
rebellion. From this point a fine
view is obtained of the city in the
direction of Ueno. The prominent
edifice on the bluff opposite {8v/ru-
ga-dai) is the Eussian Cathedral,
opened in 1891.
4. — EojiMACHi (Continttbd). In-
ner Moat. The Imperial
Palace.
Another and more direct way
from Shimbashi to the Shokonsha
at Kudan, is by crossing the first
bridge (Dobashi) over the moat,
passing the Bokumei-kwan, a large
edifice used for social purposes, on
the r., and going straight on as fax
as the site of the Houses of the
Diet, at the further end of the
Hibiya parade ground. Here the
road turns r., with the Russian
Legation, the Foreign Office (Gwair
mus?id), and military barracks on
the 1. Skirting the moat, the
large building seen in front is the
Head-Quarters of the General Staff
Department.
Near here, on the 14th March, 1861, li-
Kamon-no Kami, Regent during the in-
terval preceding the election of a new
Shogun, and a man of rare sagacity and
favourable to foreign intercourse, was
asBassinated in broad daylight by emis-
saries of the Prince of Mito, who wag
desirous of seating his own son on the
throne. To elucidate this incident, it
should be mentioned that there were three
branches of the Tokugawa family, viz.
Kishfli, Mito, and Owari, from whom the
Shoguns were elected by a family council,
and that the election had fallen upon a
young prince of Kisha, thus baulking
Mito's plans.
The moat here, with its green
banks and spreading trees and the
myriads of wild-fowl fluttering in
the water, affords one of the pret-
tiest sights in Tokyo. The vast
enclosure of the Imperial Palace
lies beyond the moat.
The Impeinal Palace. Though
the new palace inhabited by His Ma-
jesty the Mikado since 1889 is not
accessible to the public, the follow-
ing description, abridged from the
* Japan Mail,' may be of interest : —
76
Route 4, — Tokyo .
Entering through long corridors
isolated by massive iron doors^ we
find ourselves in the smaller of
two reception rooms, and at the
commencement of what seems an
endless vista of crystal chambers.
This effect is due to the fact that
the 8^1071, or sliding-doors, are
of plate-glass. The workmanship
and decoration of these chambers
are truly exquisite. It need
scarcely be said that the woods
employed are of the choicest
description, and that the carpen-
ters and joiners have done their
part with such skill as only Japa-
nese artisans seem to possess.
Every ceiling is a work of art,
being divided by lacquer ribs of a
deep brown colour into numerous
panels, each of which contains a
beautifully executed decorative de-
sign, painted, embroidered, or em-
bossed. The walls are covered in
most cases with rich but chaste
brocades, except in the corridors,
where a thick, embossed paper of
charming tint and pattern shows
what skill has been developed in
this class of manufacture at the
Imperial Printing Bureau. Amid
this luxury of well-assorted but
warm tints remain the massive
square posts — ^beautiful enough in
themselves, but scarcely harmo-
nising with their environment,
and introducing an incongruous
element into the buUding. The
true type of what may be called
Imperial esthetic decoration was
essentially marked by refined sim-
plicity — white wooden joinery,
with pale neutral tints and mellow
gilding. The splendour of richly
painted ceilings, lacquered lattice-
work, and brocaded walls was re-
served for Buddhist temples and
mausolea. Thus we have the
Shinto, or true Imperial style, pre-
senting itself in the severely colour-
less piJIars, while the resources of
religious architecture have been
drawn upon for the rest of the
decoration. In one part of the
building the severest canons have
been strictly, followed : the six
Imperial Studios, three below stairs
and three above, are precisely such
chaste and pure apartments as a
scholar would choose for the abode
of learning. By way of an example
in the other direction, we may t^e
the Banqueting Hall, a room of
magnificent size (540 sq. yds.) and
noble proportions, its immense
expanse of ceiling glowing with
gold and colours, and its broad
walls hung with the costliest silks.
The Throne Chamber is scarcely
less striking, though of smaller
dimensions and more subdued de-
coration. Every detail of the work
shows infinite painstaking, and is
redolent of artistic instinct. The
furniture of the Palace was im-
ported from Germany. Externally
the principal buildings are all in
pure Japanese style. The appro-
priation for the Palace was
$3,000,000; but to this amount
must be added considerable sums
voluntarily offered by wealthy
Japanese, as well as valuable con- .
tributions of materials.
The unpretentious brick and
plaster structure to be seen from
the E. side, rising above the moat
in the Palace enclosure, contains
the offices of the Imperial House*
hold Department (Kunaisho).
Not far from the Palace, in an
Easterly direction, is the Insatsu
Kyoku or Government Printing
Office, a vast and well-organised
establishment, to the inspection of
which a day may be profitably
devoted, as its scope includes
much besides mere printing. Here,
among other things, is manufac-
tured the paper currency of the
country.' The Ministries of Fi-
nance, of Education, and of the
Interior, together with various
other Government Offices, are in.
the same neighbourhood.
Seido, Kanda Myojvn. University.
11
6. GiNZA. NiHON-BASHI. CURIO
Street. Sbido. Kanda Mtojin.
Impebial Univebsitt. Dango
zaila. 0-gwannon. botanical
Garden. Muryo-in. Kirishitan-
ZASA. Denzu-in. Koibhikawa.
Arsenal a in) Garden. Gok:oku-
Ji. Imperial Cemetery.
The most important thorough-
fare in Tokyo, which none should
fail to see^ leads from the Shim-
bashi terminus to Megane-bashi.
The portion of it nearest to the
station is called the CHnza, and
has many shops in European style.
Proceeding along it, the traveller
crosses the Kyobashi and Nihon-
bashi bridges, from the latter of
which all distances in Eastern
Japan are calculated. The new
General Post-Office stands close
by. Parallel to the portion of the
main street between these bridges
is Naka-^idri, a street highly attrac-
tive on account of its second-hand
curio shops. Nihon-hashi has also
given its name to the surrounding
large and busy district, which is
filled with shops, market-places,
and godowns. The great fish-
market is a notable sight in the
early hours of the morning.
Megane-Bashi, or ' Spectacles
Bridge,' is so called from its circu-
lar arches. The portion of the
canal to the 1. is popularly known
as ' Sendai's "Weeping Excavation '
(NaJd-bori).
Local history says that Tsunamune,
DaimyO of Sendai, was in the habit of
squandering large sums at the YoshL-
wara, and that the 8hogun, in order to
turn him from his rakish ways, and also
to put snch extravagance oat of his
power, imposed on him the task of deep-
ening and widening this part of the moat
— a work which he Ib said to have per-
formed with much lamentation over the
drain on his purse.
A little way on is Seido> the
gage's Hall or Temple of Con-
facius, now used as an Education-
al Museum. It is pleasantly
situated on rising grourfd in the
midst of a grove of trees, among
which the fragrant mokusei is most
conspicuous. The buildings, which
date from 1691, are fine specimens
of the Chinese style of architect-
ure. The main hall facing the
entrance is supported on black
lacquered pillars, the ceiling is
also of black lacquer, while the
fioor is of ,finely chiselled square
blocks of stone. Opposite the door
is a wooden image of Confucius,
possessing considerable merit as a
work of art. The Museum, which
contains specimens of school and
kindergarten furniture, books,
maps, etc., is open daily to visitors.
Just above, in the same grounds,
stand the two sections of the
Normal School (8hihan-0akkd), that
in brick being for men^ the other
for women.
Behind the Seido, is the Shinto
temple of Kanda_ My oj in, dedica-
ted to the god Onamuji and to
Masakado, a celebrated rebel of
the 10th century.
After the final overthrow of Masakado,
his ghost used to haunt the neighbour-
hood. In order to lay this spectre, apo-
theosis was resorted to in the 13th cen-
tury. The temple, for which a hoary
antiquity is claimed, but which was only
established in its present site in 1616, has
been frequently burnt down and rebuilt
since that time.
The temple, originally decorated
with paintings by artists of the
Kano school, has now grown some-
what dingy, but is still popular
with the multitude. The yearly
festival, which is celebrated on
the 15th September, is well-worth
seeing.
Entering the main street of the
district of Kanda, one of the chief
arteries of the Northern portion of
the metropolis, we oome r. to the
Imperial Uniyersity (TeikolM Dai-
gam), a set of handsome brick
buildings standing in the exten-
sive grounds of the former Kaga
Yashiki, or mansion of the g^eat
Daimyo of £aga.
78
Route 4, — Tohjo,
The germ of this institution was the
Ban»ho Shirabe-Jo, or * Place for the Ex-
amination of Barbarian Writings,* founded
by the Tokugawa Government in 1856.
Seven years later, this name was changed
to that of Kaisei-fOf or * Place for Develop-
ing and Completing/ which indicated a
change for the better in the views held
by the Japanese as to the value of Euro-
pean learning. Numerous other changes
nave taken place both in the name and
scope of the institution, which since 1881
has been placed on a thoroughly modem
footing, and now includes CoUeges of
Law, Medicine, Engineering, Literature,
Science, and Agriculture, where lectures
are delivered by a lar^ staff of professors
of various nationalities and in various
languages. The students number over
1,900. The courses that attract most
students are those of Law and Medicine.
A large hospital connected with the Uni-
versity stan^ in the same grounds.
Other institutions under the authority of
the President of the University are the
Botanical Gkirdens in the district of Koi-
shikawa, the TOkyo Observatory at ligura
in Tokyo, and the Marine Biological
Observatoiy at Misaki in the province of
Sagami,
_ Further on in the direction of
Oji are the florists' gardens of
Dango-zaka, whither the towns-
folk flock in thousands to see the
chrysanthemum shows in Novem-
ber. The flowers are trained over
trellis-work to represent historical
and mythological scenes, ships,
dragons, and other curious designs.
In 1890, there were flowery repre-
sentations of the chief members of
the first Imperial Diet which had
just been elected.
The O'Qwannon, or * Great
Kwannon,' may be worth a pass-
ing visit. The gilt image, which is
16 ft. high, was an offering made
in the 17th century by a merchant
of Yedo, and represents the goddess
bending slightly forward, and
holding in her hand the lotus, the
emblem of purity. Round the walls
of the shrine containing the image,
are ranged in tiers the Sen-tax
Kwannon, or images of the ' Thou-
sand Incarnations of Ewannon.'
The KaUhikawa, Botanical Garden
{Shohw-hutsv^en) is open to the
public. Duplicate specimens of
the plants are for sale at the office.
The small temple of Mui^o-in, in
the same district, is connected with,
the history of the early Catholic
missionaries to Japan, some of
whom lie buried in the cemetery.
Hence the name of Kirishitan-
zaka, or * Christian Hill,' by which
the locality is popularly known.
The grave of the earliest of these
missionaries. Father Giuseppe
Chiara, who died in 1685, may be
distinguished by a priest's hat
carved in stone. Readers desirous of
further details are referred to the
writings of Mr. Ernest Satow and
Professor J. M. Dixon, in Vol. VI,
Part I, and Vol. XVI, Part III, of
the 'Transactions of the Asiatic
Society of Japan.'
The temple of Dcn»i*-'in, close by,
has a certain historic in^rest as
the resting-place of leyasu's
mother. The main altar, sur-
mounted by a large gilt image of
Shaka, is handsomely ornamented.
The Koishikawa Arsenal (Hohei
Kosho) occupies the site of the
former mansion of the Prince of
Mito. Here are manufactured the
celebrated Murata rifles. An order
from the military authorities is
necessary to gain admittance. An
order is also necessary for the
Garden (Korakuen), which stiU re-
mains intact, and is the finest
specimen of the Japanese land-
scape gardener's art to be seen in
the capital. Its design was to
reproduce in miniature many of
the scenes whose names are fami-
liar to the literati of Japan.
Prince Mitsukuni, generally known
as Mito Komon, laid out the
grounds as a place in which to
enjoy a calm old age after a life of
labour. If the visitor has first
inspected the Arsenal, he wUl then
be conducted to a summer-house
in the Garden, with an extensive
grass-plot attached, and overlook-
ing a lake copied from a noted one
in China called Sei-ko. A small
wooded hill rises beyond, which we
ascend, and on which stands a
miniature replica of the famous
Koishikawa, Umo,
79
temple of Kiyomizu at Kyoto, en-
riched with carvings, but worn by
time. Descending, we are . im-
mersed for a minute in the depths
of a wood before reaching an old
bridge with a rivulet running far
below. Crossing the bridge and
following up a zigzag path, we
come to the shrine of H^u-i and
Shiku-sei, the loyal brothers of
Chinese lore, who, after the over-
throw of their lord and master,
refused to eat the corn produced
under the conqueror's sway, and,
secluding themselves on Mount
Shuyo, Uved on ferns till, being
told that ferns grew also on their
enemy's lands, they abstained even
from that poor food, and so died of
starvation. An arched stone
bridge and another shrine, shaped
octagonally in allusion to the
Eight Diagrams of the Chinese
system of divination, are next
passed. From here, a tunnel-Hke
opening leads through a thicket of
creepers and other Ixees to a lake
several acres in extent and full of
lotus-floweis. The water, which
comes from the Tamagawa aque-
duct, is made to form a pretty cas-
cade before falling into the lake.
An island in the centre is con-
nected with the mainland by a
bridge. Everywhere there are
magnificent trees — cherry-trees for
tlie spring, maples for the autumn,
plum-trees for the winter, making
a change of scene at each season.
Near the exit, is a hill with a
path paved in such manner as to
imitate the road over the Hakone
Pass.
On the extreme N. W. outskirt
of the city stands the Buddhist
temple of Ookohuji, now used as
the head-quarters of the Shingon
sect, who have a seminary there for
young priests. With its extensive
grounda, its silent belfry, and the
perfect stillness of its surround-
ings, it recalls the memory of days
now irretrievably past, when Bud-
dhism was a mighty power in the
land. The azaleas here are noted
for their beauty. The chief trea-
sure of the temple is a gigantic
kakemono of Buddha's Entry into
Nirvana by Kano Yasunobu, which
is shown only during the month of
April.
Adjoining Gokokuji is the new
Cemetery of the Imperial family,
selected since the removal of the
Court to Tokyo. It is not open to
the public. The interment here
in 1891 of Prince Sanjo, one of the
leaders of the Kestoration and
long Prime Minister, was an im-
posing pageant.
6. — Ueno Park, Temples, and
Museum. Asakusa. Higashi
HoNGWANJi. Temple or Kwan-
KON. Mukojima. Hobikibi.
Ueno Park is the most popular
resort in the metropolis, and has
been the site of three National
Industrial Exhibitions. Here, in
April, all Tokyo assembles to ad-
mire the wonderful mass of cherry-
blossom for which it is famous.
No traveller should miss this op-
portunity of witnessing a scene
charming alike for natiural beauty
and picturesque Eastern life.
Originally the Yedo residence of the
Todo family, Ueno was taken over by
the Shdgun lemitsu in the year 1625
for the purpose of erecting here in
the North-Eastem, and therefore accord-
ing to a prevalent superstition the
most imlucky, portion of the new capital,
a series of Buddhist temples that should
surpass all others in splendour. The
original main temple then founded oc-
cupied the site of the present MuBeum,
and was burnt down in 1808 on the
occasion of a bloody battle fought be-
tween the partisans of the Mik£io and
those of the Shogun. The outer gate still
exists, showing the marks of bullets. This
temple was counted among the triumphs
of Japanese architecture. Here always
resided as high-priest a son of the reign-
ing Mikado, retained in gilded slavery
for political reasons, as it was convenient
for the Shdguns to have in their power a
prince who could at once be decorated
with the Imperial title, should the Court of
Kydto at any time prove unfavourabl«
80
Route 4, — Tokyo.
to their policy, "the last high-priest of
Ueno was actually utilised in this man-
ner by the Shogun's partisans, and car-
ried off by them to Aizu when they raised
the standjard of rebeUion. On their defeat,
he was pardoned by the present legiti-
mate sovereign, was sent to Germany to
study, and is now known by the title of
Prince Kita Shirakawa,
Leaving Ms jinrikisha at tlie
bottom of the hill, the traveller
ascends r. a short flight of steps,
leading to a plateau planted with
cherry-trees and commanding a
good view of the city, especially
towards Asakusa, including the
twelve-storied tower which is seen
rising beyond the Ueno railway
station, the. circular Panorama
building, and the high roof of the
great Hongwanji temple. The stone
monument on this plateau is de-
dicated to the soldiers who fell
fighting for the Shogun's cause in
the battle of Ueno. Close by to the
1., is a dingy Buddhist temple dedi-
cated to the Thousand-Handed
Kwannon.
Descending again to the main
road, we reach the celebrated
avenue of cherry-trees, a uniquely
beautiful sight during the season
of blossom. The air seems to be
filled with pink clouds. To the 1.,
is a shallow piece of water called
8hinohazyrno-ike, and celebrated for
its lotus flowers in August. On a
little peninsula jutting out into
the lake, are a number of tea-houses
and a shrine dedicated to the
goddess Benten. This formerly
romantic spot has of late years
fallen a viction to vandalism, the
shores of the lake having been
turned into a race-course. A little
further up, is a branch of the * Sei-
yoken Hotel, which commands a
good view of the lake. The eicten-
sive buildings seen in the distance,
on a height to the r., are some of
the Colleges of the Imperial Uni-
versity. Close to the hotel is a
bronze image of Buddha, 21^ ft.
high, known as the Daibutsu. This
inferior specimen of the bronze
sculptor's art dates from about the
year 1660. Following along the
main road for a few yards, we come
1. to a bullet-riddled gate, pre-
served as a relic of the battle of
Ueno. An immense stone lantern
just inside the gate is one of the
three largest in Japan, the work
of Sakuma Daizenosuke who flou-
rished early in the I7th century.
Beyond it again, has stood since
1890 a switch-back railway, whose
vulgar clatter strikes a strangely
discordant note in the harmony
produced by the stately crypto-
merias, the ancienit pagoda, and
the glorious gold gate at the
end of the long avenue of stone
lanterns, presented in 1651 by
various Daimyos as a tribute to
the memory of the Shogun leyasn.
To this Shogun, under his posthu-
mous name of Toshogu or Gongen
Sama, the shrine within the gate
is dedicated. Th^ gate itself, re-
stored in 1890, is a dream of
beauty. Carvings of dragons
adorn it on either side. Above are
geometrical figures, birds, foliage,
and everywhere the Tokugawa
crest of three Asarum leaves. It is
intended to restore in the same
style the temple whose gold has
been worn away in many places.
The details resemble those of the
Mortuary Shrines at Shiba. The
temple contains some fine speci-
mens of lacquer. Bound the walls
hang pictures of the San-jHrroJc-Jca^
sen, below which are screens with
conventional lions.
The 8an-jU-roh-ka-»en, or Thirty-six Po-
etical Geniuses, flourished during the Sth,
9th, and 10th centuries. The grouping
of their names in a galaxy is attributed
to a court noble of the 11th century named
Kinto Dainagon. Their portraits were
first painted by Fujiwara-no-Nobuzane
about A.D 1200. A complete list of their
names will be found m Dr. Wm. An-
derson's interesting ' Catalogue of Japa-
nese and Chinese Paintings.
Returning to the main road
the way we came, and passing
through the now closed buildings
Ueno Museum.
81
of the last National Industrial
Szhibition, we reach the
Ueno Miisenm (Hahibutsu-Jcvjan).
This institution, which is open
every day except Monday, from 8
to 5 in summer, and from 9 to 4 in
winter, is well-worth a visit. The
contents are arranged as follows : —
Ground Floor. L. of Entrance-
Industrial Department : — Boom 1,
porcelain; Boom 2, cloisonn6,
bronze, lacquer, metal-work, pot-
tery, wood-work ; Boom 3, carpets,
lace, and woven stuffs j Boom 4,
tools, instruments, and miscel-
lajieous articles.
Ground Floor. B. of Entrance.
Natural History Department. The
front rooms contain the Zoolo-
gical Section ; the back rooms, the
Botanical and Agricultural Sec-
tions.
An annexe at the back of the
main building contains the Miner-
alogical Section, immediately be-
hind which a pretty garden has
been laid out.
Upper Floor. Landing; ancient
Imperial State bullock cart and
palanquins, model of the Tenchi
Maru, or * Ship of Heaven and
Earth,' which was the State barge
used by the Shoguns.
Upper Floor. Front rooms r.
(above Industrial Department),
Historical or Archaeological De-
partment. The contents of this
Department being of special in-
terest, they are here indicated in
greater detail, as follows : —
Boom 1.
First two ccues r. and 1. Stone
arrow-heads, spear-heads, and pot-
tery of the prehistoric period ;
maga-tama and kudortama in jasper,
agate, etc.
The maga-tama, or 'curved jewels,'
which somewhat resemble a tadpole in
shape, were anciently strung together and
used as necklaces and ornaments for the
waist both by men and women, as were
also the kudu'tama or ' tube - shaped
jewels.* Their use survives in the Loo-
cboo Islands.
Second cases r. and 1. Prehisto-
ric stone celts and other objects;
proto-hietoric copper mirrorl and
horse-trappings.
Third cases. Proto-historic cop-
per beUs, iron swords, armour,
horse-trappings, shoes, and cooking
utensils.
Fourth cases. Iron swords, spear-
heads, horse-trappings, pottery
anciently used for the presentation
of offerings to the Shinto gods.
Some pieces from the provinces on
the N.E. shore of the Inland Sea
are remarkably ornamented with
human figures in high relief.
Fifth cases. Early pottery con-
sisting of sacrificial cups, etc.
Sixth coMs. Earthenware images
of men and horses used in proto-
historic times for interment in the
graves of illustrious personages,
after the custom of burying their
chief retainers alive with them
had been discontinued ; figures of
birds — apparently geese — which
were used as a fence round the
tumulus of the Emperor Ojin in
the province of Kawachi; frag-
ments of earthenware posts used
for a similar purpose.
Boom 2.
Firsi ca^s r. and 1. Antiquities
from the Buddhist temple of Ho-
ryuji in Yamato, including iron
and wooden begging-bowls, nickel
and bronze flower-vases and im-
plements for food, golden tokko, and
specimens of the miniature pago-
das of which, in A.D. 764, the
reigning Mikado caused a million
to be made for distribution to all
the Buddhist temples throughout
the land. There are also manu-
scripts, which are among the earli-
est specimens of Japanese calli-
graphy. They are aU in the
Chinese language.
Second cases. Antiquities from
Horyuji, including incense-burners
with long handles, boxes, shoes,
and scarves, whose patterns show
the stiff Chinese formality of the
82
Baute 4* — Tokyo,
art-industry of early Japan, miisical
instruments, ecclesiastical 'proper-
ties/ such. 9^ exorcising-wands,
temple seals^ etc., and miscella-
neous articles of common use.
Third cases. Antiquities from
Todaiji at Nara, including miscel-
laneous articles, Buddhist reliqua-
ries— one of these holds specimens
of the little bead-like relics of a
Buddha which are known as shari
— musical instruments, tuning-
forks, and standard measures.
Fourth cases. Christian relics :
Many of these date from tlie embassy to
Rome of Hashikura Rokuemon, who was
sent thither by Date Masamune, Prince of
Sendai, in 1614, with a train of followers,
and returned to Japan in 1620, The oflft-
cial Japanese account of this curious
episode is that the embassy went at the
ShO^n's desire, in order to investigate
the political strength and resources of
Europe, The version usually accepted by
European writers is that the eicpedition
really was what it avowed itself to be —
an act of submission to the religious
supremacy of the Pope, The envoy was
vrell-received at the Roman Court, and
was presented with the freedom of the
city of Rome, besides being loaded with
presents. The relics remained in the
possession of the Date family at Sendai
until a few years ago.
Among the objects in these cases,
are an oil-painting of Hashikura
in prayer before a crucifix, an
illuminated Latin document con-
ferring on him the freedom of the
city of Rome, holy pictures, rosaries,
crucifixes, a small Japanese book
of Catholic devotion in hiragana
characters, photographs of Date
Masamune's letters to the Pope in
Japanese and Latin, a portrait of
Hashikura in his Italian costume,
etc. To a set of circumstances
very different in their nature,
though not far removed in time,
belong the fumi-ita, or "trampling
boards," — oblong blocks of metsS
with figures in high relief of Christ
before Pilate, the Descent from
the Cross, the Madonna and Child,
etc., on which persons suspected
of the crime of Christianity were
obliged to trample during times of
persecution, in order to testify
their abjuration of the * depraved
sect,' as it was called. The Dutch
traders at Nagasaki are suspected
of having lent themselves to this
infamous practice for the sake of
monetary gain.
Fifth cases. Implements used in
the Shinto religious cult.
Sixth ca^s. Coins illustrating
the currency of Japan from A.D.
708 onwards ; standard weights
and measures. The very large
oblong gold coins were called dhan,
the smaller ones kohan.
The last room of this suite con-
tains a model of the Shinto shrines
temporarily erected in the Fukiage
Garden at Tokyo for the corona-
tion of the present Emperor, and
burnt down after the ceremony.
A small room 1. contains Imperial
robes and the ancient Imperial
throne, with exquisitely delicate
silk hangings, which served to
shroud majesty from the gaze of
ordinary mortals.
The back rooms on this side con-
tain : — Room 1, court robes and
ancient textile fabrics ; Room 2,
armour and weapons ; Room 3,
musical instruments, tea utensils,
masks, and theatrical costumes.
Upper Floor, 1. (above Natural
History Department). Front
Rooms, Fine Art Department.
Central Room and Room 1, Kake-
monos and Mahimonos; Room 2,
masks and images, chiefly bronze ;
Room 8, manuscripts and illustrat-
ed scrolls. The back rooms com-
prise the Art Industry Depart-
ment,— ^lacquer, porcelain, bronze,
etc.
There is a large wing to the r.
of the entrance, but it is not now
open to the public.
On quitting the Museum, an
avenue r. leads to the Art. School
{Bijutsu Qukko), not accessible
without a special introduction. In
the same grounds, are a Public
Library and Reading Room (Tosho'
kwan)t and a learned Academy
Tombs of the Shoguns.
88
called the Oahishi Kai-in. Behind
these, are the Zoological Gardens
{Dobutsu-en).
Before reaching the Tosho-kwan,
an avenue turns ofif r. to the
Tombs of the Sh6^nns(OoBeiya),
abutting on the second and finer
of the two Mortuary Temples (^t
no Oo Reiya). The main gate is
always kept closed, but a side en-
trance 1. leads to the priest* s house.
The resident custodian will act as
guide for a small fee.
The six Shdgons buried at TJeno
belonged to the Tokugawa family, being
the 4th, 5th, 8th, 10th, 11th, and 18th
of their line. It is still at the private
expense of the family that these shrines
are kept up. In general style, they
closely resemble those at Shiba, described
on p. 68, and are among the priceless
legacies of the art of Old Japan. Like the
Shiba shrines, too, they have suffered at
the hands of thieves since the Revolution
of 1868.
This glorious building, a sym-
phony in gold and blended colours,
has a wooden colonnade in front,
the red walls of which are divided
into compartments, each contain-
ing a medallion in the centre, filled
with painted open-work carvings
of birds and flowers, with ara-
besques derived from the chrysan-
themum above and a carved wave-
design below. In the centre of
this colonnade is a gate decorated
with a painting of an angel. From
here, an open colonnade leads up to
the steps of the main building.
The porch has brackets carved
with conventional chrysanthe-
mums. Its square columns are
adorned with plum-blossoms in
red and gold. Under the beams,
are red and gold lions' heads as
brackets. The doors of the oratory
are carved in diapers, and gilded
all over. Note the tastefuUy
painted diapers on the architrave.
The ceiling is massive and loaded
with metal fastenings. In the
coffers are dragons in gold on a
blue ground. The interior walls
are gilded, having in some places
conventional paintings of lions, in
others movable shutters. This
apai-tment is 16 yds. wide by 7
yds. in depth. The corridor which
succeeds it is 4 yds. wide by 8 yds.
in depth, and leads to the black
lacquered steps of the inner
sanctum. Its ceiling is decorated
with the phoenix on a green and
gold ground. Handsome gilt doors
covered with carved arabesques
close the entrance to the sanctum,
which measures 7 yds. in depth by
11 yds. in width. The ceiling is
decorated with fine gilt lattice-
work in the coffers. The small
shrines, containing the memorial
tablets of the illustrious dead, are
gorgeous specimens of gold lacquer.
Beginning at the r., these shrines
are respectively those of the 5th,
8th, and 13th Shoguns, and of Ko-
kyo-In, son of the 10th Shogun.
B. and 1. are two shrines contain-
ing tablets of eight mothers of
Shoguns. Curiously enough, all
were concubines, not legitimate
consorts. The actual graves are
in the grounds behind. The finest,
a bronze one, is that of the 5th
Shogun. Its bronze gate has
magnificent panels with the phoenix
and unicorn in bas-relief, — Korean
castings from Japanese designs
about 140 years old.
The First Mortuary Temple (Ichi
no Go Reiya) is close to the Second.
On leaving the Second, turn to thd
1. to reach the priests' house, where
application for admission must be
made. Here are buried the 4th,
10th, and 11th Shoguns, together
with several princesses. The
monument of the 4th is in bronze,
the others in simple stone. Over
the grave of the 11th Shogun
hangs a weeping cherry-tree, placed
there to commemorate the love of
flowers which distinguished that
amiable prince, whose reign (A.D.
1787-1838) was the culminating
point of the splendour of Old Japan.
Returning towards the entrance
of the park, we reach the Buddhist
temple popularly known as RyQ
84
Baute 4. — Tokyo.
Vaithif properly Jigen-Do, dedicated
Vt the two great Abbots, Jie Dai- !
•hi and Jigen Daishi, the former
of whom flotiriBhed in the 9th
eentutj, the latter in the I6th
and 17th, On this side of the
park are some buildings often used
of late years for art exhibitions of
Tarious kinds.
We now leave Ueno, and passing :
along a busy thoroughfare, reach
the district of Asakusa. The first '
object of interest here is the ,
spaeions temple of Higashi Hon- i
inranji, popularly called Monzehi, \
tlie chief religious edifice in Tokyo |
of the Monto sect of Buddhists.
Though yery plain, as is usual
with the buildings of this sect, the
Monzeki is worth visiting on ac-
count of its noble proportions. It
was founded in 1657. The iron
net-work thrown over the temple
is intended to prevent sparks from
falling on the wood-work, when
there is a conflagration in the
neighbourhood. Ilie huge porch
is adorned with finely carved
wooden brackets, the designs being
chrysanthemum flowers and leaves,
and peony flowers and leaves. On the
transverse beams are some curiously
involved dragons. These are the
best specimens of this sort of work
to be seen in Tokyo, and should
■ not be passed over. Observe too
the manner, peculiar to the build-
ings of this sect, in which the
beams are picked out with white.
The area of the matted floor of the
nave (g^m) is 140 mats, and round
the front and sides runs a wooden
aisle 12 ft. wide. Over the screen
which separates the chancel and
its side-chapels from the nave, are
massive gilt open-work carvings
representing angels and phoenixes ;
the largest are 12 ft. in length by
4 ft. in height. The rest of the
building is unadorned. Hanging
against the gilt background of the
temple wall, on either side of the
altar, are to be seen several kake-
monos of Buddhist saints, indistin-
guishable in the ' dim religious
light;' also r. the poethumoiiB
tablet of leyasn, which is exposed
for veneration on the 17th of the
month. ThehoHMon, Amida^isablack
image, always exposed to Tiew,
and standing in a very handsome
shrine of black and gold lacquer.
From the r. side of the main hall, &
bridge leads down to the Jiki-do,
or preaching halL At the main
temple, sermons are only preached
for one week in the year, viz. from
the 21st to 28th November, when the
gorgeous services {hd-cn-ko) held in
honour of the founder of the sect
are well-worth witnessing. On
this occasion, the men all go to the
temple in the style of dress known
as kator^inu, and the women with
a head-dress called tsuno-kakushi
(Ut. *hom-hider') — both relics of
the past. The 'hom-hider' would
seem to have been so named in
allusion to a Buddhist text which
says : ' A*woman's exterior is thai
of a saint, but her heart is that of i
demon.'-^Lesser services are helc
at the time of the vernal an<
autumnal equinoxes. Quaint test!
mony is borne to the popularity o
this temple with the lower middl
class by the ' notices posted up o:
some of the great columns in th
main hall. Not only is thei
one to prohibit smoking, but or
warning people not to come liei
for their afternoon nap (Hiiru-i
muyo)! On quitting the Monzel
notice its nobly massive roof, w^i1
lions rampant at the corners.
About 7 cho from the Monzel
stands the great Buddhist temp
of Sensdji, popularly called Asakn
Kwannon, because dedicated
Kwannon, the goddess of Mercy.
A fabulous antiquity is claizned for 1
founding in this locality of a slir
sacred to Kwannon, the tntdition be:
that the image which is now -worsbip]
there, was fished up on the neigliborLr
strand during the reign of th.e Bmpx
Suiko (A.D. 693—628) by a noble of
name of Hashi-no-Nakatomo, who ]
Asahisa Temple,
86
been exiled to this then desolate portion
of tbe coast, and with two attendants
gained his livelihood by casting his nets
at the mouth of the Asaknsa river. In
his fishing hut the first altar is said to
have heen raised ; and the crest of three'
nets, which is to be seen marking certain
portions of the buildings, was devised in
memory of the event. The miraculous
image is never shown, but is commonly
believed to be but 1| inch in height;
and th.e disproportion between the small-
ness of the image and the vastness of the
temple has passed into a popular saying .
Instead of the actual sacred image, there
is exbibited on the 13th December of every
year another laiger one which stands in
front of the high "altar. In the year 1180,
Yoritomo endowed the temple with ninety
acres of arable land.^ But when leyasu
made Tedo his capital, he found the
temple gone to ruin, and the priests
living in disorder and immorality. The
firesent buildings date from the time of
emitsu, after the destruction by fire of
the former edifice. They are in the
possession of the Tendaisect of Buddhists
On no account should a visit to
this popular temple and the
grounds (Kdenchi) surrounding it
be omitted ; for it is the great holi-
day resort of the middle and lower
classes, and nothing is more striking
than the juxtaposition of piety and
pleasure, of gorgeous altars and
grotesque ex-votos, of pretty cos-
tumes and dingy idols, the clatter
of the clogs, cocks and hens and
pis^eons strutting about among the
worshippers, children playing,
soldiers smoking, believers chaffer-
ing with dealers of charms, ancient
art, modern advertisements — in
fine, a spectacle than which surely
nothing more motley was ever
witnessed within a religious edifice.
The most crowded time is Sunday
afternoon, and the 17th and 18th
of each months days sacred to
Kwannon.
The mfdn gate of the temple no
longer exists. One walks up
through a lane of red brick shops,
where toys, photographs, and gew-
gaws of all kinds are spread out
to tempt the multitude. The sam-
mon, or two-storied gate in front of
the temple, is a huge structure of
red wood, with images of the Ni-o
on either side. The immense
sandals hung up in front of the
cages containing these images, are
placed there by persons desirous
of becoming good walkers. To the
1., immediately , before passing
through the big gate, is a popular
shrine of Fudo, just outside of
which is a shrine of Jiz5, distin-
guishable by a prayer-wheel (go-
sho-guruma) roughly resembling a
pillar post-box.
The prayer-wheel is, in Japan, found
only in connection with the mystic doc-
trine of the Tendai and Shingon sects,
and its use differs slightly from that to
which it is put in Thibet. No prayers are
written on it ; but the worshipper, attri-
buting to ingwa (the Sanskrit Jcarma,
that IS, * the effects in this life of the
actions in a former state of existence')
any sin of which he wishes to be rid, or
any desire that occurs to him, turns the
wheel with a simple request to Jizo to let
this ingtoa duly run its course — the course
of ingtoa resembling the perpetual revolu-
tions of a wheel.
On the opposite or r. side of the
lane, on a mound, is the large Asa-
kusa bell whose sonorous notes are
heard all over the Northern part
of the city.
The great hall of the temple of
Kwannon is 102 ft. square, and is en-
tirely surrounded by a wide gallery.
The large picture hanging above
the entrance to the r. represents life
(under the figure of two sleeping
men and a sleepingtiger) as nothing
more than a dream, the only living
reality in which is the power of
religion (typified by a Buddhist
priest). The eye is struck, on enter-
ing, by the immense number of
lanterns and pictures which cover
the ceiling and walls. These are
all offerings presented by believers.
Some of the pictures are by good
modern artists. One over the
shrine to the r. represents a perfor-
mance of the "No, or mediseval lyric
drama, in which the red-haired
sea-demon called Shojo plays the
chief part. Opposite is a curious
painted carving in relief, represent-
ing the ' Three Heroes of Shoku '
(a Chinese state established in
the 2nd century chiefly by their
S6
RoiUe d. — Tokyo,
efforts). The hero on the r., called
Kwan-u, is now worshipped in
China as the God of War. To the
1. of this is one showing On-Umaya-
no-Kisanda fixing his bow-string
to shoot the foea of his master
Yoshitsune, the latter (to the r.)
being awakened by his mistress^
the renowned and lovely Shizuka
Gozen. The ceiling is painted
with representations of angels, the
work of Kano Doshun. The seated
image to the r., with a pink bib
round its neck, and now almost
rubbed away with age, was a cele-
brated work of Jikaku Daishi,
and represents Binzuru, the helper
of the sick. At any time of the
day believers may be observed rub-
bing it (see p. 28). The stalls in
front of the main shrine are for
the sale of pictures of the goddess
Kwannon, which are used as
charms against sickness, to help
women in child-birth, etc., of tickets
to say whether a child about to be
born will be a boy or a girl, and so
forth.
The chancel is, as usual, separated
from the nave by a wire screen,
and is not accessible to the public.
An offering tendered to one of the
priests in charge will, however,
generally procure admission. On
the high altar, gorgeous with
lamps, flowers, gold, damask, and
sacred vessels, and guarded by
figures of the Shi Tenno, of Bonten,
and of Taishaku, the latter said to
be the work of Gyogi Bosatsu,
stands the shrine which contains
the sacred image of Kwannon. On
either side are ranged images, some
2 or 3 ft. high, of Kwannon in
her ' Three-and-Thirty Terrestrial
Embodiments,' each set in a hand-
some shrine standing out against
the gold ground of the wall. R.
and 1. of the altar, hang a pair
of votive offerings — golden horses
in high relief on a lacquer ground
— ^presented by the Shogun lemitsu.
On the ceiling is a dragon, the
work of Kano Eishin. The side
altar to the r. is dedicated to Fudo.
Observe the numerous vessels used
in the ceremony of the goma
.prayers, which are frequently of-
fered up here for the recovery of
the sick. The twelve small images
are the Ju-ni Ddji, or attendants
of Kwannon. The altar to the
1. is dedicated to Aizen Myo-6,
whose red image with three eyes
and six arms is contained in a
gaudy shrine. The two-storied
miniature pagoda is simply an
offering, as are also the thousand
small images of Kwannon in a
case to the 1.. and the large Euro-
pean mirror, in front of which is
a life-like image of the abbot Zen-
nin Shonin. At the back of the
main altar is another called * XJrE
Kwan-non,* (ura meaning * back *)
which should be visited for the
sake of the modern wall-picture
on lacquer with a background
of gold leaf, by artists o
the Kano school. Above are
crowd of supernatural being)
headed by a converted dragon i
the form of a beautiful woma]
who offers a large jewel to Sliak
Two of the latter's dSsciples {Baka'i
are at his r. foot, Monju at his
foot, and Fugen below on the
The figure of Fugen has been i
stored within the last thirty yea
Those on the r. and 1. walls are i
tended for the Twenty-eight Ma:
festations of Kwannon.
In the grounds are several bui
ings of interest, and a number
ichd trees whose golden foliage
autumn is a sight in itself. !Behi
the great temple to the 1., is a snn
shrine full of ex-votos inscril
with the character ^, ' eye,* j.
sented by persons afflicted viritli
disease. Beside it is a large bro
image of Buddha. The small 1:
agonal building immediately beb
the great temple, is the Daih6-cL
Jizo-do, containing a crowd, of li
stone images seated in tiers ro
a large one of Jizo. This divii
being the special protector of cl
Asakusa. Mukojima,
87
ren, parents bring the images of
tlieir dead little ones to his shrine.
Seyond the Jiz6-d6, is the Nembwtsu-
da with a pretty altar. Turning r.,
Tve come to the 8anja — a Shinto
sHrine^ dedicated to the Three
Fishermen of the local legend, and
Having panels decorated with my-
tliological monsters in gaudy
colours. Note the bronze and stone
lions in front. Passing the stage
on which the Z^agrwra dances are per-
formed, we reach the Rinzo, or * Re-
volving Library,' in a square
building with carved lioiis on the
eaves.
The Rinzo is a receptacle lai^ enough
to contain a complete edition of the Bud-
dhist Scriptures, but turning so easily on
a pivot as to be readily made to revolve
by one vigorous push. A ticket over the
door explains the use of this peculiar book
case : ' Owing to the voluminousness of
tbe Buddhist Scriptures— 6,771 volumes
— it is impossible for any single individual
to read them through. But a degree of
merit equal to that accruing to him who
should have perused the entire canon, will
be obtained by those who will cause this
library to revolve three times on its axis ;
and moreover long life, prosperity, and the
avoidance of all misfortunes shall be their
reward.' The invention of * Revolving
Libraries' is attributed to a Chinese
priest called Pu Daishi, who lived in the
6th century. That at Asakusa is of red
lacquer on a black lacquer base and stone
lotus-shaped pedestal. 'I'he ceiling of the
small building containing it has repre-
sentations of clouds and angels. The
images in front, on entering, represent Fu
Daishi with his sons. Those trampling
on demons are the Shi Tenno, and the
life-size gilt figure is Shaka. The books,
which were brought from China early in
the 13th century, are aired every year at
the autumn equinox, but are not shown
at other times. The custodian, in return
for a small gratuity, will allow visitors to
make the library revolve.
The Pagoda close by is no
longer op^n to visitors.
Adjacent to the temple enclosure
we find the Asakusa Koenchi, or
public grounds, where stands
the lofty tower, properly called
Rywin-kaka, and more popularly,
Jur-ni-kai. This building, erected
in 1890, has twelve storeys, as
its popular name implies, is 820
ft. in height, 50 ft. in internal dia-
meter at the base, is ascended as
far as the eighth story in an
elevator worked by electricity, and
commands a more extensive view
than any other point in the city.
The grounds of Asakusa are the
quaintest and liveliest place in
Tokyo. Here are raree-shows,
penny gaffs, performing monkeys,
cheap photographers, street artists,
jugglers, wrestlers, life-sized figures
in clay, vendors of toys and lolly-
pops of every sort, and, circulating
amidst all these cheap attractions,
a seething crowd of busy holiday-
makers.
About 1 m. to the North of Asa-
kusa is* the celebrated Yoshitoara,
the abode of frail beauties.
On the other side of Azuma-bashi,
the finest bridge in Tokyo, is the
garden of the former Satake Tashi-
ki, one of the best specimens of the
Japanese style of gardening. It
contains an excellent tea-house. A
little further on is
Mukojima, celebrated for its
avenue of cherry-trees, which
stretches for more than a mile
along the 1. bank of the Sumi-
da-gawa. When the blossoms
are out in April, Mukojima is
densely crowded with holiday-
makers from mom till dusk, and
the tea-houses on the banks and
the boats on the river re-echo with
music and merriment. This sight,
which lasts for about a week, should
on no account be missed. The little
temple at the end of the avenue
was raised in remembrance of a
touching story of the 10th century,
which forms the subject of a
famous lyric drama.
Umewaka, the child of a noble family,
was carried off from Kyoto by a slave-
merchant, and perished in this distant
spot, where his body was found by a
good priest who gave it burial. The next
year, his mother, who had roamed over the
country in search of her boy, came to the
place, where, under a willow-tree, the
villagers were weeping over a lowly grave.
On asking the name of the dead, she
discovered that it was none other than
88
EoiUe 4, — Tokyo,
her own son, who during^ the night ap>
peared in ghostly form, and held converse
with her ; but wnen day dawned, nothing
remained bat the waving branches of the
willow, and instead of nis voice only the
sighing of the breeze. A commemorative
service is still held on the 16th March ; and
if it rains on that day, the people say the
rain-drops are Umewaka's tears.
Another favourite flower resort
lying some little way beyond
Makojima, is Horikiri, famed for its
irises which bloom in June. The
excursion is a pleasant one at that
time of the year.
7. — Eko-in. The Five Hundred
Kakan. Eambido. Distbict of
Ptjkaoawa. Susakt. ,
Crossing Bydgoku-bashi, one of
the largest bridges in the metro-
polis spanning the Sumida-gawa,
we reach the noted Buddhist tem-
ple of Eko-in.
In the spring of 1857, on the occasion of
a terrible conflagration which lasted for
two detys and nights, 107,046 persons are
said to have perished in the flames. The
Government undertook the care of their
interment, and orders were given to Dan-
saemon, the chief of the pariahs,* to
convey the bodies to Ushijima, as this
part of Yedo was then called, and dig for
them a common pit. Priests from all
the different Buddhist sects came to-
f ether to recite for the space of seven
ays a thousand scrolls of the sacred books
for the benefit of the souls of the departed.
The grave was called Muenzuka, or ' the
Mound of Destitution,' and the temple
which was built near it is, therefore, also
popularly entitled Muenji. Ek5-in being,
on account of its peculiar origin, without
the usual means of support derived from
the gifts of the relatives of the dead, was
formerly used as the pla^e whither SEbcred
images were brought from other provinces
to be worshipped for a time by the people
of Yedo, and as a scene of public perfor-
mances. The latter custom still survives
in the wrestling-matches and other
shows, which draw great crowds here
every spring and winter.
Eko-in might well be taken as a
* In Japanese, Eta. Their occupations
were to slaughter animals, tan leather,
assist at executions, &o. The class as
such is now abolished ; but remnants of
its peculiar costume may still occasionaUy
be seen in the persons of young girls with
broad hats, who go about the streets play-
ing and singing.
text by those who denounce
' heathen * temples. Dirty, gaudy,
full of semi-defaced imaees, the
walls plastered with advertise^
ments, the altar guarded by two-
hideous red monsters, childrezi
scampering in and out, wrestlers
stamping, crowds shouting— the
place lacks even the semblaiice of
sanctity. In a small arched en«
closure behind the temple, is the
grave of the celebrated highway-
man Nezumi Kozo, where incense
is always kept burning. The oeme*
tery at the back contains monu.
ments to those who perished in
the great fire of 1657, and in the
great earthquake of 1855.
In Honjo, Midori-cho, about X
mile further on, is a temple con-
taining painted images, almost life-
size, of the Five Hundred Bakan,
(Oo-hydku JSoJban), seated on shelves
reaching from the bare earth of
the floor to the rafters of the roof.
They are from the chisel of Shoun,
an artist of the 17th century. On
some of them are pasted slips of
paper with their names. The
much larger image in the centre
represents Shaka, with Anan on
his r. hand and Kasho on his 1.
The white image in front of Shaka
is Kwannon. The temple also
contains a hundred small images
of Kwannon. The present edifice
dates only from 1889, when the
images were removed from an older
building in the district of Fukagawa,
which had fallen into decay.
Not far off stands the Shinto
Temple of Temmangu, commonly
known as Kameido, from a stone
tortoise seated on a well in the
grounds. Sugawara no Miehizane
is here worshipped under the title
of Temman Baijizai, i.e., * the Per-
fectly Free and Heaven-Pilling
Heavenly Divinity.' The temple
grounds have been laid out in
imitation of those at Dazaifu, the
place of his exile. Passing in
through the outer gate, the eye is
Kameido. Joshinji. Stisaki no Benten,
89
first attracted hj the wigtarias
trained on trellis, whose blossoms
during the last week of April make
Kameido one of the chief show-
places of Tokyo. They grow on the
borders of a pond called 8hinji-no
lie, or 'the Pond of the Word
Heart,' on account of a supposed
resemblance to i|>, the Chinese
character for * heart ; ' and one of
the amusements of the visitors is to
feed the carp and tortoises which
it contains. A semicircular bridge
leads over the pond to a large gate
in Fa^n^-tnune-sidburi (that is, eight-
roofed style), standing in front of
the temple. Glass cases inside the
gate contain the usual large
images of Zuijin. Round the walls
of the temple, hang small pictures
on a gold ground of the ancient
religious dances called BiLgdku.
Beyond a shed containing two
life-size images of sacred ponies, is
an exit by which the visitor can
reach the Ume-ycLshiki, or Plum-
Garden of Kameido, 4 cho distant.
It is known as Ghvaryohai (lit. the
Plum-trees of the Recumbent Dra-
gon), and is a g^reat show-place
early in March, when the blossoms
are all out. There are over 500
trees, all extremely old and partly
creeping along the ground, whence
the name. Most of the cut stones
which stand about the grounds are
inscribed with stanzas of poetry in
praise of the flowers ; and during
the season similar tributes, written
on paper, will be seen hung up
on the branches. A few eho
from here liesMukojima (see p. 87).
The S.E. part of Tokyo, con-
sisting of the district of Fukagawa
on the 1. bank of the Sumida-gawa,
is a maze of narrow streets, chiefly
inhabited by the lower trading and
artisan classes, and contains little
for the sightseer.
Joshinji, though the chief temple
of the Nichiren sect in Tokyo, is
quite unpretentious, but there are
some good carvings on the gates
of the priests* dwellings which
line the narrow street leading
up to it. In the court-yard is a
large bronze image of Shaka sup-
ported on the shoulders of stone
demons ; and to the back, beyond
the cemetery, a curious supersti-
tious practice may be witnessed
at the shrine of Shogyo Bosatsu.
The stone image of the saint stands
in a little wooden shed hung round
with small regularly cut bundles
of straw. The faithful buy these
at the gate, dip them in water,,
brush the idol with them, and
then ladle water over his head,
believing that this ceremony will
ensure a favourable reply to
their petitions. The image is con-
stantly wet, showing how firm the
belief is. The priests of the sect
are unable to account for the
origin of the usage.
The Shinto temple of Hctckiman,
which dates from A.D. 1668, is
handsome, owing to former Bud-
dhist influence. The walls and ceil-
ing are decorated with paintings
of birds and flowers, and there are
also some pretty wood carvings.
The ornamentation of the chancel
is extremely rich, the ceiling be-
ing panelled, and .gold profusely
scattered about. There are like-
wise gold lions, and gold figures
of the Sun-Goddess Amaterasu
and of the Gods of JCasuga. Doves
fiy about the grounds, as is
usual in temples dedicated to
Hachiman. They are supposed to
act as the god's messengers, —
strange messengers from the God
ofWarl
The district situated between the
temple of Hachiman and that of •
Susaki-no-Benten is noted for its
trade in timber, the town being
here intersected by numerous
canals communicating with the
Okawa, down which come the
tiniber-laden rafts from the inland
provinces. The temple of SusaH
no Benien (Susaju being the
90
Route 4. — Tokyo.
name of the projecting point
of land on which it is situated)
dates from the latter part of the
17th century, at which time the
ground on which it was erected had
only recently been reclaimed. The
temple itself is uninteresting ; but
on a clear day the view from a little
stage built up in the grounds will
repa^V a slight detour if the traveller
happens to be in the neighbour-
hood. It is seen to still better
advantage by walking along the
embankment built after the ravages
of the inundations and tidal wav*-8
of the eighth decade of the last
century. Beyond the wide sweep
of sea in front, stretches 1. in the
blue distance the coast line of
Shimosa, while nearer to the spec-
tator are the mountains of Kazusa
and Boshu, Nokogiri-yama being
most conspicuous both in height
and outline. To the r. towers
Mt. Fuji, Ranked on either side
by the Oyama and Hakone
ranges, while far away to the North
rises double-peaked Mt. Tsukuba
from the midst of the plain. At
low tide, which the Japanese con-
sider the prettiest time, and espe-
cially if. the season be spring,
numerous pleasure boats, with sing-
ing-girls and other merry-makers,
will be seen lazily floating about m
the offing, watching the oyster-
catchers ply their trade.
8. — TsuKiji.
On the way from the Shimbashi
Terminus to the Foreign Conces-
sion in Tsukiji, several important
modern buildings are passed : — ^1.
the Fifteenth National Bank, r. the
Imperial Department of Communi-
cations, and'further on r. the Cen-
tral Telegraph Office and the huge
Patent Office, opposite to which
is the Seiyoken Hotel. Behind
the latter stands the KcibuJci-zay
one of the best theatres of the
metropolis. The Naval Academy
is seen to the r. beyond the canal.
Still further to the r. is the
Enryd-kwan, formerly the summer
palace of the Shoguns, and used in
more recent times as a place of
entertainment for illustrious visi-
tors. The Duke of Edinburgh,
General Grant, and Princes Albert
Victor and George of Wales are
amongst the personages who have
received hospitality within its
walls. The Enryo-kwan is also
used once a year for an Imperial
Garden party, at the season when
the masses of double cherry-flowers
are in bloom. The place is unfor-
tunately not open to the general
public.
The enormous tiled roof to the
1. is that of the
Nishi Hongwanji temple, popular-
ly called the Tsukiji Monzeki.
Originally founded in 1658, and
destroyed by fire in 1872, this
. temple was rebuilt in 1880. It
was the first example of the
partial adaptation of European
architectural principles to a build-
ing essentially Japanese. With
the exception of the brick walls
and the common glass windows,
it is almost a replica of the
Higashi Hongwanji at Asakusa.
The smaller edifice to the 1. is a
hall where sermons are preached.
A large proportion of the
buildings in the Foreign Conces-
sion is devoted to rehgious and
educational purposes, testifying
to the zeal of the various mission-
ary bodies, whose members form
the bulk of the population. The
most striking places of worship are
the Cathedral of the Protestant
Episcopal Church of America and
the Eoman Catholic Cathedral.
Another conspicuous building is
the Club Hotel, formerly the Ame-
rican Legation, situated on the
Bund facing the Sumida-gawa
near its mouth. Beyond the river
lies Ishikawa-jima, where stands
the convict prison. The land
is gaining rapidly on the water
in this district, the whole spit op-
Route 5, — Excursions from Toyko*
91
posite the Bund having been re-
claimed within the last fifteen
years. The view across the water
on a fine day is very pretty.
ROUTE 5.
Excursions prom Tokyo.
1. meguro and yijtenji. 2. ike-
gami. 3. futago and mariko.
4. cormorant-fishing on the
tamagawa. 5. juniso, hori-no-
uchi, and i-no-kashira. 6. ko-
QANEI. 7. TAEAO-ZAN v'ld HACHI-
oji. 8. oji. 9. the cave-dwbll-
ings near konosu. 10. konodai.
1. — Meguro,
Me^nro {Tea-houses, * Uchida,
Hashiwa-ya; there are several
others, but they are apt to be
noisy), is a favourite picnic resort,
3 m. out of the city westwards by
road or Suburban Railway; but the
station is about a mile from the
village. Shortly after leaving the
station at the top of a descent
called Gyonin-zaka, is 1. the small
temple of Daienji, which deserves
passing notice for the sake of the
Go-hyaku Bakan, — ^tier upon tier
of small seated images of Bud-
dhas in various attitudes of lAedi-
tation, quaint yet pathetic in their
stony stillness. Meguro is seen to
best advantage when either the
peonies or the chrysanthemums
are in blossom. There are two
permanent sights — ^the temple of
Fudo, and the graves of Gompachi
and Komurasaki. The key to the
latter is kept at the tea-house.
The grave is called Hiyohirzuka,
after the hiyoku a fabulous d|(>uble
bird which is an emblem of con-
stancy in love. It may be added
that sentiment is the only motive
for visiting the grave, as there is
really nothing to see.
About 260 years ago, there lived a young
man called Shirai Gompachi, who at the
age of sixteen had already won a name for
his skill in the use of arms, but, having had
the misfortune to kill a fellow-clansman
in a quarrel over a dog, was compelled to
fly from his native province. While rest-
ing in an inn, on his way to Yedo, a beau-
tiful girl came and awoke him at midnight,
to tell him that a band of robbers, who
had stolen her from her home, intended
to kill him for the sake of the sword
which every Samurai, at that time, carried.
Being thus forewarned, Gompachi suc-
ceeded in slaying all the thieves when the
attack was made upon him. He also
restored Komurasaki to her grateful
father, a rich merchant, who would have
been glad to make the young man his
son-in-law; but being ambitious, Gom-
pachi insisted on pursuing his way to
Yedo. Meanwhile, unhappy Komurasaki
was left to pine for the handsome youth
with whom she had fallen deeply in love.
After further adventures, Gompachi
reached Yedo, only however to fall into
dissolute habits. Hearing much praise of
a lovely and accomplished girl who had
lately become an inmate of the Yoshi-
wara, Gompachi went to see her, and was
astonished to find in the famous beauty
no other than the maiden whom he had
but a few months before rescued from the
robbers* den. It was the usual pathetic
story. Her parents having become
poverty-stricken, she had sold herself in
order to alleviate their distress. Frequent
visits to his sweetheart soon exhausted
G^mpachi's slender means, and having no
fixed employment, he was driven in des-
peration to murder a man to procure
money to take him to the Yoshiwara. The
crime was repeated, until he was caught
red-handed, and ultimately beheaded as a
common malefactor. A friend claimed
his body and buried it at Meguro,
whither poor Komuitisaki hastened on
hearing the sad news of her lovers end,
and, throwing herself on the newly-made
grave, plunged a dagger into her breast
and died.
At the bottom of the steps lead-
ing up to the temple of Fudo, is a
pool fed by two tiny cascades. To
stand naked under the stream of
water for several hours in cold
weather is considered a meritori-
ous penance, the effect of which is
to wash away all taint of sin.
Tradition says that Jikaku Dai-
shi, the founder of this temple,
miraculously called the spring
into existence by the aid of his
92
Boute 5. — Exciirsiom from Tokyo.
mace {iolcko)^ whence the name of
Tokko-no-takiy or 'mace cascade.'
The most remarkable of the ex-
Yotos is a huge sword, such as the
god Fudo is often represented with.
To avoid mistakes, it may here
be noted that \ ri from Meguro
proper, there is another village
called Kami-Meguro, At the latter
also there is a good spot for picnics,
called SMftr-Fvioi, — a small artificial
hiU from the top of which an
extensive view is obtained. A
third picnic resort in this neigh-
bourhood is 8enxohi, which has a
pretty piece of water.
Ten cho W. of Meguro, stands
in solemn solitude the handsome
temple of Tutenji, founded in the
early part of tne 18th century.
The art-treasures of this temple,
which are aired {ymLshi-hotiki) in the
autumn of every other year, will
weU repay a visit. Among the
most interesting objects, are some
fine specimens of old European
tapestry, which were probably pre-
sented to the Shogun by the head
of the Dutch factory at Nagasaki.
At other times it is impossible to
see these objects, as they are care-
fully stored away.
2. — iKEaAUI.
_ Ikegami is reached by train to
Omori station on the Yokohama
line ii^^ hr., whence it is about 1 m.
by jinrikisha. The great temple of
H(ymmonji is celebrated, as being
the place where the Buddhist saint
Nichiren died in A.D. 1282. Its
situation and magnificent timber
make it one of the most attractive
points within easy reach of Tokyo.
The best time to visit it is from
the 11th to 13th October, when the
annual festival in Nichiren's honour
takes place. Another festival is held
from the 22nd to 28th April. At
the top of the temple steps is 1. the
Daimoku-do, where some of the
faithful are generally to be heard
beating the drum and reciting the
formulary of the sect — Nanrn nvyoho
renge kyo. Next to this, is a
temple dedicated to Kato Kiyo-
masa. Then comes the Shaka-do,
or hall dedicated to Shaka, where
worshippers spend the night at
the time of the annual festival,
with, behind it, another building
containing a complete set of the
Buddhist scriptures which may be
made to revolve on a huge hexa-
gonal wheel. Fronting the gate is
the main temple, recently restored
in handsome style, an evidence of
the popularity which this sect still
enjdys. On the altar stands an
exquisitely lacquered shrine, con-
taining a life-size image of Nichi-
ren in sitting posture, said to have
been carved by Nichiro, one of his
chief disciples. The upper part of
the wall is painted with pictures of
angels performing on musical in-
struments. Behind the altar, out-
side the temple, is a pictorial
representation of the chief in-
cidents in the saint's life. The
extensive buildings at the rear
are the residences of the abbot and
monks. Although Nichiren died
at Ikegami, his bones were con-
veyed to Minobu ; all that remain
here are one tooth and the ashes
of his funeral pyre. The shrine
(Kotavndd) contuning these relics
is a short way down the hill to the
1. This building, about 20 ft. in
diameter, stands on a huge lotus-
fiower of stone. (For plan of Ike-
gami see p. 26).
One may picnic either at the tea-
house (*Tamba-ya) in the village, or
(but in this case notice must be sent
the day before, as the matter is more
or less one of favour) at Eijuin, a
temple in the wood behind the
pagoda, having beautiful plum-tree a
and peonies and a fine view. The
imposing-looking tomb in the
temp'.e garden is that of a Daimyo's
wife. A third place, inunediately
below the pagoda, is the immense
tea-house of Akebono-ro, popularly
Futago,' The Tamagawa. Hon-no-tichi,
93
tnow^n as Ikegami Onsen. It is
<imte a curiosity, sprawling as it
does, up and down two hills by
means of galleries and bridges,
which remind the beholder of
scenes familiar in Chinese art.
This tea-house is a favourite native
holiday resort.
3. FUTAGO AND MaBIKO.
Fatag^O (Inn, Kame-ya), on the
Tamagawa, is a picnic resort 2^ ri
by jinrikisha from Tokyo. Just
before reaching the river, there is
a striking view of Fuji and a
panorama of the surrounding
country. During the simimer
months, the Japanese visit Futago
for the sake of the sport — if so it
can be termed — of watching fisher-
men net the ai, a kind of trout.
One ri down the river is
Mariko, a place of similar char-
acter. A pleasant way of returning
to Tokyo is to take boat down the
river to Kawasaki station, which, is
about 2 hrs. from Futago. The
distance 'by the direct jinrikisha
road from Mariko to Tokyo is 2 ri
4. — coemobant-flshing on the
Tamagawa.
This curious method of catching
fish may be seen at the ferry of
Sekido on the Tamagawa. The
best way of reaching Sekido is to
take train from Shimbashi or Shin-
jiku to Kokubunji (1^ hr.), a small
village on the Hachioji Railway,
whence jinrikishas may be obtain-
ed to Sekido, li ri, passing through
Fuchu, (Inn, Naka-ya), a thriving
little town situated on what was
the old highway before the in-
troduction of railways. Two cor-
morants are usually kept at the
ferry-house at Sekido, and fisher-
men with these birds may be enr
gaged at a cost of $1.50 per diem.
If more birds are wanted, notice
ahould be given to the fishermen a
day in advance. The cormorants
are held by strings kept in the
hands of the men, who wade about
and relieve them of their prey. A
fair quantity of small fish may
generally be reckoned on. Instead
of returning to Kokubunji, the
excursion may be varied by diver-
ging at Fuchu for Sakai station, 1 ri
longer by road, but 3 m. nearer to
Tokyo by raU.
5. — JuNiso, HoRi-NO-ucHi, Omita
Hachiman, and I-no-kashiba.
Jniiiso. Train to Shinjiku sta-
tion on the Suburban Line, or jin-
rikisha all the way. Crossing the
railway, and proceeding along the
Ome Kaido for 10 min., the path
to Juniso turns 1. through the
fields, and in 10 min. more a short
avenue of pines is reached, leading
to the small and deserted temple
of Juniso Gongen. Below the
temple lies a small lake, plentifully
supplied with a species of carp.
Several tea-sheds stand at the
upper end. Juniso is a favourite
spot for picnics during the sum-
mer months.
Hori-no-iichi may be reached in
f hr. from Juniso. A lane directly
behind the tea-sheds soon rejoins
the Ome Kaido, along which we
proceed for i hr., to leave it again
by a path 1., at the corner of which
is a pretty plum orchard. A short
distance beyond, the path turns
sharp r., where a stone indicates the
distance to Hori-no-uchi as 16 cho.
The road is lined with shops for the
sale of rosaries, salted plums, toys,
etc. The temple of Myohdji at
Hori-no-uchi, belonging to the
Nichiren sect, merits a visit
for the sake of the excellent car-
vings which adorn the main build-
ing, those of dragons in the porch,
below the architrave, and in the
eaves being especially spirited.
The iron gates and railing to the
r. of the main entrance are good
specimens of modern workmanship.
94
Route 5, — Excursions from Tokyo.
On the 1. of the court, is a long
shed full of a curious collection
of ez-Totos, such as the queues
of men whose prayers have been
granted by the interposition of
Nichiren, oil-paintings, etc. In
the main hall, a splendid shrine 5
ft. square and 10 ft. long, covered
with gilt carvings, occupies the
centre of the further side of the
chancel. It contains a seated
image of Nichiren, said to be the
earliest efSgy of the saint, and to
have been carved in 1261. It can
be seen on payment of a small fee.
The principal festival is held on the
13th October, the anniversary of
Nichiren's death.
Half a Ti further_on, is the once
notable temple of Omiya Hachinum,
founded in the 10th century, but
now completely abandoned and
. falling into decay. A broad and
stately avenue of cryptomerias and
maple-trees, and several torii, attest
its former importance.
Proceeding through the flat
fields for 3i m. further, we reach
the temple of Benten, picturesquely
situated on the borders of the small
lake of I-no-kashira, whose waters,
derived trom seven small springs,
supply the aqueduct leading to
Kanda in Tokyo.
History says that in 100B the lake was
visited by leyaau, who found the water
BO excellent that it was used ever after
for making His Hi^hness's tea. In
16.39, his grandson, the Bhognn lemitsu,
gave orders for the water to be laid on to
the Castle in Yedo. He also, on the occa-
sion of a visit to the lake, carved with the
small knife from his dirk the head of a
wild boar {i-no-kaghira) on the trunk of a
tree close by, whence the present name.
It was not, however, till about 1653 that
the aqueduct was constructed.
I-no-kashira attracts visitors
chiefly in May, when the azaleas
are out. At other seasons, it is
quite neglected.
The best wa^to return to Tokyo
is to join the 5me Kaido, 40 min.,
whence it is about 2 ri to Shinjiku
station. After bad weather the
roads are heavy throughout..
6. — KOOANEI.
Koganei, with its fine avenue of
cherry-trees 2^ m. in length along
the banks of the small canal that
conducts the waters of the Tama-
gawa to T6ky6, is about 1^ ri beyond
I-no-kcuhira, but should only be visit-
ed when the trees are in blossom.
It is most easily reached by train
to Sakai on the Hachioji Hne, \
hr. from Shinjiku Junction, and
some 15 min. distant from the
avenue. Ten thousand young trees
were brought from Yoshino in
Yamato, and from the banks of the
Sakura-gawa in Hitachi, and plant-
ed here in 1735 by command of the
Sh5gun Ybshimune.
The crowds that assemble daily
to picnic under the shade of the
pink and white blossoms about the
middle of April, present a spectacle
that should not be missed by visi-
tors to Tokyo at that time of year.
Instead of returning to Sakai, it
will be found shorter to walk on
to Kokuhwnji station, which is only
about 20 min. from the upper
end of the avenue.
7. — Bt the Shinjiku - Hachioji
Railway to Takao^zan.
§ 2
Q OD
3 m.
10
13
IT
19
28
Names
of
Stations.
SHINJIKU Jet
Nakano.
Sakai
Kokubunji.
Tachikawa.
Hino.
hachi5ji.
Remarks.
Alight for cherry
avenue of Ko-
ganei.
Alight for Tajna-
gawa Valley,
Route 10.
This is a favourite excursion ii
spring and autumn with holiday
makers from Tokyo. The railway
journey toHachidji occupies 1^ hr.
whence it is 2 ri along the plain t<
Takao'zan, OJL
95
the foot of Takao-zan. Jinrikishas
and carriages traverse this distance
in about 1 hr. The ascent of the
mountain is an easy 40 min. walk.
The railway track, after leaving
Shinjiku, lies for a short distance
close to the florists' gardens of
Okubo, noted for their azaleas, the
rest of the route passing mostly
through a flat couhtry with a heavy,
clayey soil. The Tamagawa and
one of its affluents are crossed
"before reaching
Hachioji (Inn, Kado-ya), the
centre of an important silk district,
but otherwise uninteresting. One
long and wide street forms the
business part of the town. A few
minutes may be spent in visiting
the bazaar (Kioankdha), which has
been opened near the station.
A short distance beyond the
village of Komagino, the path lead-
ing up Takao-zan turns off r. from
the main road, and crosses the
stream.
Takao-zan is a mountain rising
about 1,600 ft. above the sea. On the
summit stands a much frequented
temple, surrounded by a splendid
grove, chiefly of cryptomerias,
which were planted in past times by
devotees of the temple. The road
is lined with posts on which are
recorded the names of persons who
have presented young trees, so many
hundreds at a time, with the object
of maintaining the grove undimi-
nished. On the platform at the top
of the ascent, stands a flne bronze
pagoda, 12 ft. in height. Above
this, on another terrace, are three
shrines dedicated to Fudo, Yakushi,
and Dainichi, and at the top of a
long flight of steps is a gaudily
decorated Shinto shrine with paint-
ed carvings. The trees shut out
the view from this point ; but lower
down a space has been cleared,
from which the eye ranges over
the plain of Tokyo and the sea in
the distance. A narrower and
steeper path than that ascended,
may be taken on the way down^
and affords pretty glimpses of the
densely wooded vaUey.
8.— Oji.
_ Oji.— The pretty Httle village of
Oji, formerly one of the most en-
joyable retreats in the suburbs of
Tokyo, now presents more the
aspect of a manufacturing centre
than of a holiday resort. Huge
brick buildings, paper and cotton
mills, the clash of machinery, and
lofty chimneys from which columns
of smoke sweep over the cherry-
trees on Asuka-yama, deprive the
place of much of its old tranquil-
lity and beauty. Oji is, neverthe-
less, still one of the attractions
in the environs of the great city,
and crowds flock there twice a
year, — in spring when the cherry-
trees are in blossom, and in
autumn when the maples which
line the banks of the Taki-no-gawa
put on their crimson tints.
The train from Ueno station
lands one in a few minutes close to
the excellent tea-houses, Ogi-ya
and Ebi-ya, which stand together
on the edge of the stream and look
(Jut on a small but tastefully
arranged garden. Half a mile be-
yond the tea-houses, in a grove of
evergreen oaks on the top of a
slight eminence, stands the temple
of Inari. The buildings consist of
a rather dilapidated oratory and
chapel. In the court-yard are
some fine old cherry-trees. The
temple and little waterfall dedi-
cated to Fud6, also in the vicinity
of the tea-houses, attract many
visitors. As the trains are gene-
rally full to overflowing during
the cherry and maple seasons, some
visitors may prefer to go out by
road. The prettiest way, 5 m.,
leaves the little lake at Ueno,
and passing through the suburb
of Shimo Komagome, turns to the
r. on reaching the tomb of the
Daimyo of Kaga, descends the hill,
and follows up the valley to the 1.
96
Route 6. — Excursions from Tokyo,
9. — The Cave-dwellings (Hyahur
Ana) NEAB KoNOSU.
These caves, amongst the most
perfect specimens of troglodytic
dwellings in Japan, are situated in
Kita Toshimi-mura in the prefec-
ture of Saitama, and are within
the limits of a day's excursion from
Tokyo. Konosu is reached in 1^ hr.
by train from TJeno station. The
road to Kita Yoshimi-mura, 2^
ri distant, crosses the railway
line not far from the station,
and runs over the plain straight
towards the Chichibu mountains.
It is a level jinrikisha road, but apt,
in parts, to be heavy after rain.
Kita Yoshimi-mura nestles under
the first hilly ground met with on
the road. At the further end of
the village, and before coining to a
suspension bridge over a small
stream, the path to the caves turns
r., and the cave-dwellings, present-
ing the appearance of a gigantic
beehive, are seen in front. On the
way, a quaint old temple of Kwan-
non, worthy of a few minutes*
attention, is passed. It is wedged
in between rocks, from the inner
side of which an entrance leads to
a chamber containing a number of
stone images of Kwannon. The
mouth of the chamber, with the
images within, is seen from the
road. A few yards beyond lie
the caves, where the local au-
thorities, by whom the place is
now maintained, have established
an office, whose occupants act as
guides and point out the parts best
worth inspection. The whole hill-
side is honeycombed with these
strange relics of a remote antiquity,
which are believed to have been
once inhabited by the beings whom
the Japanese term ' earth-spiders.'
The original Japanese word is tsuchi-
gumo. There is considerable doubt as to
its etymology, though every one agrees in
interpreting it to mean a race of cave-
dwelling savages, Motoori, the greatest of
all Japanese literati, explains the name
by a comparison of the habits of the race
in question to those of the spider. But it
is surely more rational to regard the "wch^
if »McAt-^« wo as a ci »rruption of f »«cAt-^o»«ori,
' earth- Ai<i«r»,' than which no name could,
be more appropriate to troglodytes.
These people, who were widely spread over
Japan in prehistoric times, were probably
the ancestors of the modem Ainos. One
of the earliest Japanese histories describes
them as ' short in stature, and having-
long arms and legs like pigmies.' Jimmu.
Tenno is said to have massacred a number
of them in one of their caves.
The caves are said to number
two hundred and thirty- seven
iii all ; but the majority of them,
were only discovered some three
years ago by the researches of Mr.
Tsuboi, of the Imperial University
of Japan, an energetic archseologist.
Most of the caves face due S. The
entrance to each is about 3 ft.
square ; then comes a passage of 6
ft. and upwards in length, leading
to a second doorway within which
are the chambers. These are of
various sizes, many being about 6
ft. square, and from 5 to 6 ft. high.
The ceilings are dome-shaped.
Each chamber contains one or two
ledges, probably for sleeping pur-
poses, and with slightly raised
edges to prevent the occupant from
rolling out. Some are quite small, as
if meant for children. Traces of the
use of tools are visible on the walls.
Iron rings, arrow-heads, etc., have
been found in some of the caves ;
but the presence of these is doubt-
less due to the fact, as local tradi-
tion asserts, that parties of fight-
ing men took refuge there in more
modern times. The hill affords an
extensive view of the adjacent
mountains, including Buko-zan in
the Chichibu range, Fuji, and
Asama yama. The town of Matsu,-
yama (Inn, Koji-ya) is only 13 cho
distant. It contains a large Shinto
temple to the gods of Inari, called
the Yakyu Inari.
KONODAI.
Omnibuses ply daily between
Eyogoku-bashi and the Ichikawa
ferry, Sri 26 cho (9 m.), a 'Treaty
Limit' boundary where passports
Route 6, — Hakone and Miyanoshita,
97
have to be shown. Konodai pro-
perly Mama Korwdai (Inn, Musashi-
ya, close to the ferry), is the bluff
on the opposite side of the river,
i m. above the ferry, and
is a favourite resort of holiday-
makers from Tokyo. It was the
site of a strong fortress held by
Satomi Awa-no-Kami, from whom
it was captured and razed to the
ground by the powerfid H5jo
family of Odawara, in 1564. The
situation affords a pleasing view
of the plain, with Fuji and the
Oyama range in the background.
Pretty, also, is the view of the fleet
of boats sailiiQg up the Yedo-gawa
before a brisk breeze. The whole
site is thickly overgrown with trees
and rank vegetation ; but a priest
from the dilapidated monastery of
Soneiji, which stands within the
same enclosure, will act as guide,
and point out various objects of
interest, including the tomb of
Ogasawara Sadayori, the discoverer
of the Bonin Islands. Afterwards, a
visit should be made to the temple
of Kbhoji in the near vicinity,
specially noted for the richness of
the maple tints in autumn. Down
the steps on the hill-side, stands a
shrine dedicated to a beautiful
girl called Mama-no-Tekona, who,
for reasons which tradition does
not assign, drowned herself in the
swamp close by.
The story of Mama-no-Tekona was al-
ready an ancient one in the 8tli century.
The unfortunate maiden is much prayed
to i)y women for safe delivery and for the
protection of their children from small-
pox. Several poems have been preserved
m an ancient anthology called the Man-
9dfhi which refer to her, but these say
nothing of the motives which drove her
to commit suicide.
ROUTE 6.
The Hakone District; Miyano-
shita, Hakone.
1. general inrobmation. 2. miya-
noshita and neighboubhood.
3. hakone and neighbourhood.
1. — General Information.
This route is specially recom-
mended, as uniting charm of
scenery, accessibility, and an un-
usual degree of comfort. All
tourists arriving at Yokohama are
advised to devote a week to it, and
if they have not so much time at
their disposal, then to devote two
or three days to a portion of it.
Even should they be disinclined
for walking and sightseeing, they
will find no place more pleasant for
idling in at aU seasons than Miya-
noshita.
The word Hakone, it should be observed,
though employed by us, as by all Euro-
peans, to denote the village called by the
Japanese Hakone-no-Shuku, Hakone-no-Ekif
or Makone-Mura, is properly the general
name of the entire mountainous district
lying at the neck of the peninsula of Izu,
between the Bays of Odawara and Suruga.
For this reason the Japanese talk of
Miyanoshita, Kiga, etc., as being * in
Hakone.' The original name of Hakone
Lake (now, however, used only in poetry)
is Ashi-no-Umi, that is, * the Sea of Reeds.'
Hence the name of the hot springs of
A$hinoyu. The lake is, in round num-
bers, \\ ri long, 4^ H round, and has a
depth of 37 fathoms in its deepest part.
The following are the heights of
the chief villages and mountains
mentioned in this route : —
Ashinoyu 2,870 feet.
Dai-ga-take 3,500 „
Dogashima 1,080 „
Futago-yama 3,620 „
Hakone 2,400 „
Higane (temple near
Atami) 2,400 „
Kamiyama 4,770 „
Kiga 1,400 „
Kintoki-zan 4,060 „
Kojigoku 2,100 „
Koma-ga-take 4,600 „
Miyagino 1,500 „
98
Route 6, — Hakone and Miyanoahita,
Miyanoshita 1,400
Myojin-ga-take 3,880
My6j6-ga-take 3,080
Ojigoku 3,466
Otome-toge 3,333
Saijoji (temple) 1,240
Sengoku-hara 2,170
Ten Province Pass 3,216
Ubago 2,940
Yumoto 400
feet.
2. — Miyanoshita and Nbiohboub-
HOOD.
Miyanoshita (Hotels, **Fuji-ya,
*Nara-ya, both large establishments
in foreign style) is easily reached
from Yokohama by the Tokaido
Railway to Kozu station, li hr. ;
thence by tram, jinrikisha, or car-
riage to Yumoto, 1 hr. ; thence by
jinrikisha (at least two men neces-
sary) or on foot for 1^ ri up the
valley of the Hayakawa to Miya-
noshita, nearly 1 hr. by jinrikisha,
li hr. on foot— say 4i hrs. for the
whole journey, including stoppages.
From Tokyo it is 1 hr. more, or
5^ hrs. in all.
Tbam Itinebabt along Plain.
Edzu to : — Ri. Cho. M.
Odawara 1 28 4,^
Yumoto 2 10 5i
Total 4 2 10
Walking ob Jtnbikisha Itineb-
abt UP New Eoad.
Yiunoto to : — Ri. Cho. M.
Tonosawa 6^ i
Miyanoshita 1 16i 3^
(Kiga. 9 i
Miyagino 5 ^)
Total 2 15
At Kozn (Jrm, Hayano), it is
worth devoting a few minutes to
walking out on the beach to look
at the beautiful view of Odawara
Bay, with, to the r., the peninsula of
Izu on whose coast Atami is situa-
ted, the volcano of Oshima (Vries
Island), and the islet of Enoshima.
to the 1. Turning round, one has
a magnificent view of Fuji. The
road from Kozu to Yumoto (the
old Tokaido) leads for the first part
of the way through the town of
Odawara (Inn, Koise-ya), cele-
brated in Japanese history as the
scene of many bloody conflicts in
feudal times.
Odawara belonged successively to
various families of Daimyos, who dwelt in.
the castle which was not finaUy destroyed,
till the time of the late revolution. The
most celebrated of these families were the
Hoj5, a younger branch of the family of
' Regents ' who ruled over Japan daring
the 13th century and the first three
decades of the 14th. This younger branch,
choosing Odawara as their capital in A.D.
1495, continued to reside there for five
generations, namely, tiU 1590, when they
were defeated and the power 'of their
house broken for ever by the Taiko Hide- "
yoshi in the battle of Ishikake-yama.
Retiring to their castle, the various com-
manding officers on the HojS side could
come to no agreement, as time wore on, as
to whether it were better to await the
onslaught of the enemy, or to sally forth
themselves and offer battle. While they
were still discussing this question in all
its bearings, Hideyoshi made a sudden
attack and captured the castle by a coup
de main. Hence the proverbial saying,
Odawara hyOgi, that is, the Odawara con-
ference,' which means endless talk re-
sulting in nothing. Among the common
people, who care not for the deeds of
days gone by, Odawara is chiefly noted
for the manufacture of a quack medicine
called uirO, which is looked on as a
panacea for all the ills to which flesh is heir.
The tram-car changes horses op-
posite the ruined walls of the
castle. On leaving Odawara, the
road enters the valley of the Haya-
kawa near the mouth of that
stream, which takes its origin in
Lake Hakone. The two round
summits seen almost constantly
ahead are Futago-yama, * the
Twin Mountains.' The avenue to
the r. of the tram road marks the
old Tokaido, which carriages and
jinrikishas still follow. At
Tiimoto, 10 min. out of the
vill., there is a cascade known as
Tamadare no taki. A small fee is
Walks near Miyanoshita,
99
ehwrged for admittance. Tumoto
boasts a large inn, called Fuku-
ziupi ; but it would seem to be
conducted with a view to the
almost exclusive reception of Japa-
nese guests. Foreigners obliged to
break the journey are therefore
advised to push on 6^ chd further
to the village of
Tonosawa, where the Tamano-
yu Hotel will be found a pieasanter
abode, owing to the fact that Euro-
pean food and beds are provided.
There are also good hot springs.
The white building, which strikes
the eye on the hill opposite, is a
Russian chapel. The mosaic wood-
work (hiji-mono), which from
Yumoto onwards fills such a pro-
minent place in every shop-window,
is the specialty for which the whole
Miyanoshita^Hakone district is
noted. The hamlet more than half
way up from Yumoto to Miyano-
ahita is
Ohiradai. On the r. side there
is a good wood-work shop, Wata-
nabe, whose specialty, is the fine
bamboo basket-work of Shizuoka.
Miyanoshita is a pleasant resort
for many reasons — the purity of
the air, the excellence of the
hotels, the numerous pretty walks
both short and long, the plentiful
supply of ' chairs * and of specially
large and comfortable kagos for
those who prefer being carried,
and the delicious hot baths, which,
containing but faint traces of salt
and soda, may be used without
medical advice. . The principal
short walks are : —
1. To Kiga by the new road
(distance, 9 chd, say ^ hr.): — no
climbing, good waterfalls on the
way, beautiful gold-fish to feed with
cakes at the Sengoku-ya tea-house.
Equally flat and pleasant road 5
ehd further up the valley of the
Hayakawa to Miyagino. The Eiga
waUc may be varied by taking the
still more picturesque but less
easy old road, turning sharp up to
the 1. on leaving the Fuji-ya Hotel,
passing through the village -of
Sokokura, where most Japanese
visitors to the springs stop in pre-
ference to Miyanoshita, then down
to the r., and over an old rustic
bridge, where cascades of cold
water and pipes leading hot water
to the hotels may be seen in strange
juxtaposition; thence to the charm-
ing little tea-house of Mi-harashi,
with extensive view of the valley
and uplands and Eiga below, and
so on down to Eiga itself (11 chd
altogether). Eiga, though little
patronised by foreigners on ac-
count of its want of airiness, is a
favourite resort of the Japanese,
and boasts several excellent inns
in native style, also a new one in
foreign style called Ise-ya.
2. To Dogashima, a village
som'e few hundred yards below Mi-
yanoshita, down a steep ravine.
There are a pretty cascade and a
charming villa, permission to visit
which may sometimes be obtained
through the proprietors of the Mi-
yanoshita hotels.
3. Walk down the new road in
the direction of Tonosawa _to the
toll-houses, (8i chd), or on to Ohira-
dai (17 chd),
4. Climb half-way up Sengen-
yaiiia, the wooded hill immediately
at the back of the bachelors'
quarters of the Fuji-ya HoteL
It is a steep pull of from 20 min.
to i hr. The height has been
roughly estimated at 1,000 ft.
above the village. Te£b-shed on the
top. Beautiful view of upper half
of Fuji, the tooth-shaped mountain
Eintoki-zan, and on the other side,
the sea with Enoshima and Cape
Misaki.
Somewhat longer (1 to 2 hrs.),
less good walking, but very pic-
turesque are : —
5. To Kiga and Miyagrino, as in
No. 1 ; then cross the river and
turn sharp to the r., walking home
100
Eoute 6. — Hakone and Miyaiwshita,
on the other side, and re-crossing to
the Miyanoshita side at Dogashima.
Guide indispensab'e. This is the
most beautiful of all the walks near
Miyanoshita. It takes a good
walker a little over 1 hr.
6. Up to Kojigokn ; then down
past the hamlet of Ninotaira to
Miyagino and Kiga, whence home
either by the new or the old road.
This walk may be abridged by
turning to the r. before reaching
Kojigoku, almost all the paths r.
leading down ultimately to the
Kiga road. Some i)ersons may feel
tempted to stay at Kojigoku rather
than at Miyanoshita, as the former
place is some 700 ft. higher, and
consequently has fresher air. The
only disadvantage is the loneliness
of the spot. The Kaikwatei Hotel
is under foreign management, and
the Mikawa-ya is a good Japanese
inn.
The meaning of the name Kojiaohtc is
* small hell.' It was given to the place in
allusion to some small sulphur springs,
which supply the hotel baths. In 1877, on
the occasion of the visit of H. M. the
Mikado, the name of Kojigoku was
officially altered to Kowaki-daniy which
means ' the valley of the lesser boiling.'
But the older name appears to be still the
more popular of the two.
A good half-day's excursion is
to: —
7. Ojigrokn« or ^big hell,' alter-
natively named Owaki-dani, 'the
valley of the greater boiling/ dis-
tant a little under 2 n to the
top of the gorge. Neither name is
a misnomer. The whole gorge
reeks with sulphureous fumes,
vegetation decreases as one ascends
higher, and the aspect of the scene
becomes weird and desolate. It is
advisable to tread carefuUy after
the guide, as more lives than one
have been sacrificed by a false step
on the treacherous crust. The
view from the top of the gorge
differs as widely in its charms from
the scene of desolation just tra-
versed as can well be imagined.
In the centre, Fuji towers up in
perfect beauty. To the extreme r.
is Kintoki-zan, then the Otome-
toge, the Nagao-toge, and to the L
the more imposing slopes of Ashi-
taka. The summit of Kammuri-
ga-take, which rises up immediately
behind the sulphur springs^ dis-
tinguishes itseft by its graceful
outline and by the dense forest
covering its sides. The vegetation
of this neighbourhood, moreover,
is remarkable, consisting as it does
chiefly of the small box and asemi
(And/romeda japonica).
8. Up Myoj6-ga4ake, the big
grassy hill immediately opposite
Miyanoshita, on the other side of
the stream. It is a walk of 1^ hr.
to the top, the path at first leading
down through the vill. of Doga-
shima, there crossing the stream,
and then turning considerably to
the r., before turning 1. again along
the crest of the hill. The view
from the summit is magnificent. In
the centre is Fuji, the depression
immediately in front of which is
the Otome-toge ; then to the r.
KintokiandMyojin-ga-take, behind
which rise Oyama, and Tanzawa ;
in the plain the Sakawa-gawa, and
behind it the low range of Soga-
yama, in which a red treeless patch
marks the Kozu railway station.
The town of Odawara can be seen
by walking back a few yards j then
the sea with Oshima, and to the r.
the low slope of Ishikake-yama ;
then Futago-yama, Koma-ga-take,
Kami-yama, and Dai-ga-take. The
blear spot on Kami-yama is the
solfatara of So-on-jigoku. Still
further to the r., in the blue
distance, is Ashitaka-yama. The
best time to see this view is at
sunrise or at sunset. The coolie
should therefore carry a lantern,
either for the first or for the last
portion of the walk. Those who are
willing to face a very stony path
for the sake of continued beautiful
views, are advised to return vii
Miyagino and Kiga. The whole
Ashinoyu, Futago-yama»
101
e3q)edition will then take from 3
to 3i hrs., including stoppages.
9. To Ashinoyu and Hnkone (1
ri 4 cho to Ashinoyu, thence 1 ri on
to Hakone). Ashinoyu (Inns,
*Mat8uzaka-ya, foreign food and
beds ; Kinokuni-ya) is famous for
its sulphur springs, whose efficacy
in the .treatment of skin diseases
and rheumatism attracts crowds
of Japanese patients and not a
few foreigners, despite the bleak
uninviting appearance of the locali-
ty. Ashinoyu is very cool in sum-
mer, owing to its height, but pays
for this advantage by being fre-
quently enveloped in mist. The
road thither, about half of which is
a stiff puU, leads close by Kojigoku.
Just before reaching Ashinoyu,
towards the end of a steep climb
called the Nana-mawari, or * seven
turnings,' the guide should be told
to lead over a small eminence
known as Benten-yama. It is not
at all out of the way, and offers a
splendid view — Odawara Bay, the
peninsula of Miura with Enoshima
like a little knob on the coast ; and
beyond that, Tokyo Bay and the
blue outline of the provinces of
S^azusa and Boshu, which divide
Tokyo Bay from the Pacifla The
chief mountain to the 1. is Oyama,
bluntly triangular in shape. Ashi-
noyu itself has no view, as it lies in
a marshy depression, though on
the top of a hill.
[On a hill 8 cho beyond Ashinoyu,
at a place called Tu-wi-hana-
zawa, a bathing establishment
with very strong sulphur baths
has recently been opened.
There is a splendid view, simi-
lar to that from Benten-yama.
This walk, and that along the
flat in the direction^of Hakone,
are the two best for invalids
staying at Ashinoyu.]
After leaving Ashinoyu, the path
is at first level, and then descends
most of the way to Hakone. The
first object of interest passed is.
1., a set of three small stone monu-
ments, two of which are dedicated
to the Soga Brothers {8oga Kyodai),
famous for the vendetta which they
executed in the hunting-camp of
the Shogun Yoritomo, at the base
of Fuji, in the year 1193, on Kudo
Suketsune, the murderer of their
father. The third and smallest of the
monuments preserves the memory
of Tora Gk)zen, a_beautiful courtesan
of the town of Oiso, who was the
mistress of the elder of the two
brothers, and became a nun on
his decease. A few yards further
on, to the 1. and half -hidden among
the grass and bushes, is a block of
andesite rock well- worth pausing a
moment to inspect, as it is covered
with Buddhist images carved in
relief. These images are known as
the Ni-jvrgO'Bosatsu, that is, * the 25
Bosatsu ; ' but which of the many
thousands of these divine beings
they are intended to represent, is
uncertain. The carving apparent-
ly dates from A.D. 1293. But the
chief curiosity on the road is the
large Image of Jiao, carved in relief
on a block of andesite, and worthy
to be counted among the triumphs
of the * Japanese chisel. Tradition
has it that the great Buddhist
saint, Kobo DaisM, carved this
image in a single night. A festival
in its honour is celebrated yearly
on the 23rd August.
[A short way past this large
image, the way up the nearer
of Fntago-yama's two chief
summits turns off to the 1.
The ascent, which will take a
good walker 20 min. or i
hr. from this spot, is worth
making — ^perhaps most con-
veniently as a separate walk
from Miyanoshita or from Ha-
kone,— ^the ancient crater, now
thickly carpeted with moss
and overgrown with bushes
and trees, being remarkably
extensive, and the view from
its upper rim, which is clear
of wood, being magnificent.
102
Route 6. — Hakone and Miyanos/iita,
The chief points to be noticed
are : to the N.E., the Oyama
and Tanzawa ranges, with the
plain of Sagami» and in the
distance Tokyo Bay ; to the E.,
Sagami Bay and the promon-
tories of Misaki and Sonosaki,
with the islet of Enoshima ; to
the S.E., Vries Island with its
ceaseless column of smoke,
and the smaller islands of To-
shima, Niijima, etc., forming
with it and with more distant
Hachijo the 'Seven Isles of
Izu ; ' to the S., Amagi-san in
1 3^11, and to the r. of it the blue
Grulf of Suruga with its line of
white surf, and the narrow
pine-clad promontory of Mio-
no-Matsubara shutting in Shi-
mizu Bay ; to the W.N.W., and
seemingly within a few yards
of the spectator, Kammuri-
ga-take, which unfortunately
hides the whole of Fuji except
a small portion of one slope ; to
the N. W. and N., the moun-
tains of Koshiu and Chichibu.
At the spectator's feet sparkle
the waters of Lake Hakone.
The long mountain-ridge be-
yond the lake and a little to
the 1., is called Taiko yama or
Taiko-michi, from a tradition
to the effect that the Taiko
Hideyoshi led his troops along
it when going to fight the
battle of Ishikake-yama. The
way was shown him — so it is
alleged — by a hunier, whom
he thereupon killed, in order
to make sure that the enemy
should not profit by the poor
fellow's local knowledge. It is
possible to ascend the further
summit of Putago-yama {8hi~
ta-Futago) ; but the labour of
forcing one's way through the
thick undergrowth is not re-
paid, as the summit itself is
covered with trees and bushes
that shut out all view. Koiiia-
^n-tiike, also, may be as-
cended r. from near the large
image of Jizo. But though,
the loftiest mountain in the
Hakone range excepting Kami-
yama, it is less worth climb-
ing than Futago-yama, as the
plateau-like nature of the top
makes it impossible to take in
the whole of the view from
any single spot. It has, how-
ever, the advantage of showing
Fuji from peak to base. A
boulder at the top of Komar-ga-
take is the subject of a curious
superstition. ■ It is believed
that the water contained in the
hollows of this boulder never
runs dry ; and the peasants of
the surrounding country make
pilgrimages to it in seasons
of drought, in order to obtain
rain by scattering the drops
about to the four winds. But
if any of the water be taken
down the mountain, the result
is a typhoon. — Koma-ga-take
may also be ascended from a
point nearer the vill. of Ashi-
noyu; but the climb is then
considerably steeper.]
The two meres, r. and 1., on the
way between Ashinoyu and Hakone,
are the remains of ancient craters.
The first hamlet reached on getting
to the lake is Moto-Hakone, 12 cho
this side of Hakone itself. There
is an inn called the Tsuta-ya,
pleasantly situated on the border
of the lake, and commanding the
best view of Fuji to be had in this
neighbourhood.
Instead of returning to Miyano-
shita by the way one has come, it
will be found pleasant in warm
weather to take a boat from Hakone
(or from Moto-Hakone, which
shortens the expedition by one mile)
to a spot called Shin-yu at the
far end of the lake (the Japanese
designation for the far-end of the
lake is Umi-jiri). Alighting there,
we go past the pleasant little bath-
ing village of XJhdgOy up the spur
separating the lake from Ojigoku,
and return home to Miyanoshita •
Hata, Otome-toge,
108
by the Ojigokn, way, as in walk No.
7. Those who have done the ex-
pedition, not on foot, but in chairs
or kagoSf can take these convey-
ances with them in the boat,, and
can be carried most of the way
home from Shin-yu. It is only
necessary to walk ov^r the dan-
gerous portion of the Ojigoku
gorge. Instead of taking a boat,
some may prefer to follow the
path along the edge of the lake.
The distances, if this extension be
adopted, are stated to be :
Miyanoshita to : — Ri. Cho. M.
Ashinoyu 1 4 2f
Moto-Hakone 23 li
Hakone 12 |
Umijiri 1 18 3f
Ubago 12 I
Ojigoku 8 i
Miyanoshita 1 34 4f
Total 6 3 14f
The above distances are perhaps
under-estimated.
10. Up nearly as far as Ashino-
yu, thence sharp 1. for 30 cho down
a steep and stony, but picturesque
path, which passes through the vill.
of Hata on the old Tokaido. The
return to Miyanoshita is made vi&
Yumoto, Tonosawa, and Ohiradai,
up the old road — total distance,
about 5i ri. The 30 cho descent
from near Ashinoyu is called the
Taki-zaka, that is, ' cascade hill/ on
account of a pretty cascade seen to
the r. about two-thirds of the way
down.
11. To the top of the Otoine-
toge, or ' Maiden's Pass,' distant
2^ ri (6 m.), whence can be gained
the nearest and most complete
view of Fuji and of the plain at
its base. The path is not steep,
excepting some 8 cho in the middle
up a hill called the Usui-toge,
and 11 cho at the end, which are
almost like scaling a wall. It is
possible, however, except for un-
usually heavy persons, to be carried
the whole way in a chair. The
path leads through Riga and Miya-
gino, crosses the Hayakawa, and
continues up the r. side of the
valley to the vill. of
Sengoku^hara, noted for the cattle-
farm, extensive for Japan, whence
the Miyanoshita hotels are supplied
with milk and butter.
[From Sengoku-hara, it is possible
to ascend Kintoki-zan. The
distance to the summit is
estimated at 25 cho, and the
climb is steep in some places.
The people of the surrounding
country-side ascend Kintoki-
zan annually on the 17th day
of the 3rd moon (old calendar),
on which day the festival of
I-no-hana (* the boar's nose ') is
held on the summit. The
name of the mountain is de-
rived from that of Kintoki, a
mighty hunter of legendary
fame.]
The climb up the Otome-toge com-
mences shortly after leaving Sen-
goku-hara. The labour it entails is
amply repaid by the glorious view
from tbe summit. Persons with
sufficient time and energy will do
well to climb up the hill to the
r., — we should rather say, up the
hills, for three or four rise behind
each other, and what looks like the
affair of a few moments really takes
the best part of half-an-hour to
accomplish. From the top, straight
ahead, are visible the snow-clad
peaks of the granite mountains of
Hida and Etchii. — ^To travel out to
Miyanoshita via the Otome-toge is a
pleasant alternative route for those
who intend visiting this district a
second time. Instead of alighting
at Eozu, one continues in the train
as far as the station of Gk>tem-
ba, situated in the plain at Fuji's
base. From Gotemba it is 2 rt to
the top of the pass. The first por-
tion of the way may be done by
jinrikisha. Gotemba is also the
104
Route 6, — Miyanoshita and Hakone.
nearest station for travellers
coming up the Tokaido fiailway
from Kobe, bound for Miyanoshita.
But if they have much luggage or
object to walking, they should go
on to Eozu, whence the facilities
for proceeding to Miyanoshita are
greater.
^ 12. To the Buddhist temple of
8ai]dji, sometimes called Doryo-san,
distant 3 ri. Though placed last,
this expedition is perhaps the most
delightful of all ; for it alone in-
cludes architectural beauties as
well as beauties of nature. The
path, after passing through Kiga
and Miyagino and crossing the
Hayakawa, leads up to a grassy
plateau near the summit of Myo-
jin-jja-take (not fco be confounded
with the Myojo-ga-take of Walk
No. 8). Tell the guide to lead to
the spot, not far out of the way,
whence may best be seen the
superb view : — on the one hand,
the sea with the plain of Sagami
watered by the rivers Banyu and
Sakawa, the mountain ranges of
Oyama, Eurakake, Tanzawa, Sobu-
tsu, Tagura-ga-take, and many of
the mountains of Koshu; on the
other, the wooded heights beyond
the Hakone pass which dwarf the
nearer ridge of Takanosu; then
turning towards the r., double-
' crested Futago-yama, Koma-ga-
take, Eammuri-ga-take, and the
long ridge to the W. of Hakone
which terminates in Eintoki-zan ;
and above and beyond all, the
gigantic cone of Fuji. From this
point it is a descent, Saijoji being
even lower down on the far side of
the mountain than Miyanoshita is
on the near. Before reaching it,
the open moorland of the hillside is
exchanged for a magnificent forest
of pines and cryptomerias, with an
undergrowth of beautiful flowering
shrubs — deutzia, azalea, pyrus ja-
ponica, aucuba, etc., according to
the season.
The monastery of Saij5ji, which be-
longs to the S5td sect of Buddhists, was
founded by a hermit named Ryoan, who
died A.D. 1401 ; but it owee its special
reputation for sanctity to his successor
Dory6, who was supposed to be one of
the numerous incarnations' of Kwannon,
the Goddess of Mercy.
To Doryo's memory is dedicated
the finest of all the shrines which
collectively constitute Saijoji. It
is called Myokwaku-do, and stands
at the top of a flight of steps to
the 1. The links of the chain
which divides the staircase into
two parts are often bound with
scraps of paper, on which pilgrims
have written their prayers. The
fan of feathers, which forms so
striking a feature of the ornamenta-
tion, was Doryo's crest. The winged
flgures with large noses represent
goblins (tengu), who dwell in the
mountains. Most of the large up-
right stones of irregular shape in-
scribed with characters in red or
gold, which are scattered about the
grounds, are memorials of persons
who have at various times contri-
buted towards the repairs of the
temple. So is the hideous blue rail-
ing, by which more modern piety
has endeavoured to mar the perfect
taste and beauty of the scene. It
is generally most convenient to
lunch at Saijoji alfresco in one of
the more retired portions of the
temple grounds.
Instead of returning to Miyano-
shita the way one came, it is far
better to arrange at the hotel,
before starting, to have jinrikishas
in waiting at the end of the stately
avenue of cryptomerias leading
from the temple down for 28 cho to
the vill. of Sekimoto. After the
fatigues of the walk, one can then
bowl along pleasantly through the
picturesque valley of the Sakawa-
gawa, skirting Odawara, and thence
proceeding up the new road to
Tonosawa and Miyanoshita, either
in the same jinrikisha or on foot.
The total distance of the trip, as
thus modified, is 10 n 25 cho (26
miles) ; but the 8 ri in jinrikisha
from Sekimoto to Odawara, and
Hako7ie, Temple of Oongen.
105
the possibility of doing all the
remainder of the way up to Miya-
noshita by jinrikisha, prevent it
from being too fatiguing. — It is
also possible to take Saijoji on
the way back from Miyanoshita
to Yokohama, by joining the To-
kaido Bailway at Maimda, the
nearest station to the temple. The
distance is estimated at between 2
and 3 ri. The way is passable for
jinrikishas.
3. — Hakone and Neighbourhood.
Hakone is most quickly reached
from Yokohama and Tokyo by the
Tokaido Bailway as far as Kozu,
thence by carriage or jinrikisha to
Sammai-bashi, a hamlet close to
Yumoto (the tram to Yumoto may
therefore be taken, instead of a
carriage or jinrikisha, if preferred),
and from Sammai-bashi on foot or
in hago along the old Tokaido up
the Hakone pass vid Hata, the
whole journey taking about 6 hrs.
from Yokohama, or 7 hrs. from
Tkoyo. But many residents pre-
fer to travel vi& Miyanoshita where
they spend the night, and then
push on next morning by Walk
No. 9 (see p. 101).
The respective merits of Hako-
ne and Miyanoshita as summer
resorts form a constant subject
of debate between the partisans
of the two places. Miyanoshita
has the advantage of hot springs,
a drier air, easier access, and
hotels in European style. Hakone
is cooler, being 1,000 ft. higher,
it affords more privacy, and has
a charming lake where one may
bathe and boat and go on water
picnics. In winter the advantage
is altogether on Miyanoshita's side.
No one thinks of staying at Hakone
daring that season, whereas Miya-
noshita is equally pleasant all the
year round. Indeed, many prefer
the winter there to the summer,
as the air is almost always clear in
winter, and walking consequently
more enjoyable. The chief inns at
Hakone are the Haf u-ya, Yamaki-y a,
and Ishi-uchi, all on the lake. But
as nearly every house in the village
is to let during the summer season,
the plan usuaUy followed by fami-
lies from Yokohama is to hire a
separate residence by the month,
bring their own servants with
them, and set up housekeeping.
Foreign furniture of a rough kind
is generally obtainable, as also are
fowls, vegetables, bread, and even
milk and butcher's meat during
the sununer season.
Some of the most enjoyable ex-
peditions from Hakone are the
same as those already described
from Miyanoshita, — for instance,
those to Ojigoku, to Ashinoyu and
up Futago-yama, etc. The follow-
ing may also be recommended : —
1. The Temple of Gongen. The
way leads out of the N. end of the
village, under an avenue of fine
cryptomerias which here lines the
Tokaido. A flight of steps will be
seen r., leading to a small shed
whence there is a charming view.
The village formerly extended to
this place. Here also stood the
old barrier {Hdkone no seki) and
guard-house, where all travellers
were challenged and required to
show their passports. The barrier
was removed in 1871, but part of
the stone-work stiU remains. Fol-
lowing along the avenue, we soon
come L to the Emperor's summer
palace {Rikyu), not accessible to the
public. The next point in the
road is the Tsuji-ya inn, from
which the best view of Fuji to be
had anywhere on the shores of the
lake is obtained. A little further
on, we pass under a stone torii and
enter Moto Hakone, a pleasant-
looking little place, much fre-
quented by students from Tokyo,
but indifferent to foreign patroh-
age. We then turn slightly to
the 1., passing under a red torii, by
the side of which stands a wooden
106
Route 6, — MiyanoshUa and Hakone.
ehed containing two iron rice-
boilers said to have been used by
Yoritomo on his huntinf^ expedi-
tions. The road here skirts the
lake, soon bringing ns to a charm-
ing vista as we ascend to the foot
of the steps leading to the temple.
On the 1., half-way up the steps, is
a small shrine dedicated to the
Soga Brothers. The main temple,
which also is small, contains
votive pictures representing these
Brothers, the Gods of Luck,
Yoritomo's horse, etc. The walk
back may be varied by taking
a wide turning to the 1. about
the middle of Moto Hakone, going
up the stone steps nearly as far
as the toWt, and then taking a
turn to the 1. which is the Shindo,
or New Boad, to Ashinoyu. . After
following this for about | m., we
strike a path to the r., which is the
old road and leads to the Tokaido ;
and so back to Hakone. The pass
above the torii commands the view
so often seen in photographs.
2. Walk to the End of the Lake.
— At the entrance to the avenue
leading to the temple of Qongen,
a path will be seen 1. lower down,
by following which a walk of 5
m. can be taken to the baths of
Shin-yu at Umijiri, the N. shore
of the lake. The return may be
agreeably varied by taking a boat
the whole way back to Hakone,
1 hr. If this trip be reversed,
the shadow of the large trees over-
hanging the lake r., shortly before
reaching Umijiri, affords a nice spot
for a water picnic.
3. Along the Siiknmo-gawa. —
This is a somewhat rough but pleas-
ant walk, difficult to find without
a guide. The stream is perpetually
crossed and re-crossed, and some-
times wading is unavoidable. The
path finally leads out at the vill. of
Hata, where kagos can be obtained
for the return journey vid the
Hakone Pass. At the beginning
of the valley, a path to the r. leads
to Toshihama on the coast. It
affords pretty peeps of Fuji and
the lake ; but the high grass
intercepts the view from the top.
4. Walks in the direction of
A tain i. — Several pleasant walks
can be taken in the direction of the
Ten Province Pass and Atami,
notably one up the slope of Okoma-
yama and over Kazakoshi-yama,
follo"\ving the boundary line of the
provinces of Sagami and Izu to
the highest point of the Tokaido,
where, on a little plateau, the
boundary post between these two
provinces is placed; and back to
Hakone by the Tokaido. While
crossing the plateau, there is a fine
view of the lake, the mountains
surrounding it, and Fuji beyond,
with to the S. the Bay of Suruga,
the promontory of Izu, the towns
dotting the Tokaido, Ashitaka-
yama, and far away in the distance
the Fujikawa like a silver streak,
and still farther the long point of
Omae-zaki stretching out into the
ocean. Distance about 3^ m.
Another walk in the same gene-
ral direction is past the pond called
Numa-ga-ike, then over a little
ridge separating it from another
pond or swamp on the Suruga side,
called Otama-ga-ike, and on up
the mountain slope to a gap, where
a turn to the 1. should be taken up
through the grass to the survey
post. The summit affords an ex-
tensive view.
But of all walks in this direction,
the most delightful is that to the
Ten Province Pass (Jikkoku-toge
or Higane-tdge). Those intending
to picnic there should, however,
remember to take water with them,'
as none is to be obtained on the
way. The climb is for the most
part not steep, and the panorama
from the summit, especially on a
fine day in early winter, is some-
thing never to be forgotten. The
top of the ridge, which is marked
by a stone known as the Ten Pro-
The Fukara and Nagao Passes,
107
vince Stone, looks down on the
provinces of Izu, Suruga, Tot5mi,
Koshu, Kotsuke, Musashi, Shimosa,
Kazasa, Boshu, and Sagami. Bays,
peninsulas, islands, mountain-
ranges, lie spread out in entrancing
variety of form and colour, Fuji
towering up magnificently above
all the rest. The distance from
Hakone is locally estimated at 5 riy
but mui^ be less, as it can easily
be done in 2^ hrs.
[A steep descent of a little over
3 m. leads from the top down
to Atami. There is also a path
from the top to the hamlet of
Izu-san^ distant 1 ri.']
6. Hiraliama on the lake. — A
short walk may be taken from the
Mishima end of the village to the
foot of the Hakone Pass, where
there is a path leading to the
shore of the lake. After skirting
the latter, it leads over a small
hill to the next bay called Hira-
hama. Should the water be too
high, Hirahama may be reached
by the track over Hatahiki-yama.
6. Umidaira. — This is the pla-
teau rising above the S.W. shore
of the lake, from which an exten-
sive and beautiful view, embracing
many of the points seen from the
Ten Province Pass, is obtained.
Time about 2 hrs. A track leads
down through the grass to a little
bay on the lake near the Hiraishi,
or Flat Stone, whence Hakone can
be easily reached by boat which
should be ordered in advance.
7. The Subterranean Water-
Course and the Fukara Pasfl. — The
Fukara Pass is the most westerly
of three that lead from the end of
Lake Hakone to Fuji, the other
two being the Nagao Pass and the
Otome Pass, the latter already des-
cribed on p. 103. The first stage on
the way to all three from Hakone
is by boat nearly to the end of the
lake. Close to the spot on the
shore where the ascent of the
Fukara Pass begins, is a tunnel
(suirmm), through which a portion
of the waters of the lake is carried
to several villages on the other
side of the mountain, serving to
irrigate their rice-fields, and then
flowing on to form the waterfalls
of Sano. This subterranean chan-
nel is said to be entirely artificial,
the local account being that it was
pierced by two brothers, who bored
through the mountain from op-
posite sides until they met in the
middle. The walk up the pass
takes .20 min. The exit of the
tunnel (umi no ana) may be easily
reached from the top of the pass,
the whole expedition from the boat
and back again taking about 2 hrs.
There is some climbing and scram-
bling to be done, but the paths are
fairly good on the whole.
8. The Nagao Pass.— This lies
1 ri 7 cho from Umijiri. The
way leads first across the Haya-
kawa, the natural outlet of the
lake, which later on flows past
Miyanoshita; then along a broad
level cinder path to the foot of
the pass, and finally by an easy
climb of 12i ^o to the top. The
gap at the summit of the pass com-
mands a complete view of Fuji from
base to peak. On looking back,
the eye sweeps across the plain of
Sengoku-hara and over the waters
of Hakone Lake. Kammuri-ga-take
is also seen to advantage, and on its
slope can be distinctly traced the sol-
fataras of Ojigoku. A more exten-
sive and beautiful view is had, how-
ever, by ascending the hill to the
1. of the pass. From this summit,
not only Fuji, but the promontory
of Izu, with Amagi-san, the whole
of the fertile plain stretching away
to the r. of the town of Mishima,
the rugged peaks of Ashitaka, the
course of the Fujikawa, the pro-
montory of Mio-no-Matsubara, Ku-
no-zan, and the full sweep of Suruga
Bay lie at the spectator's feet.
108
RoiUe 7. — The Peninsula of Izu,
BOUTE 7.
The Peninsula op Izu.
1. atami and neighbourhood.
2. hakonb to 8huzenji and
8himoda. 3. shimoda to atami
by the coast. 4. tu-ga-shima
TO ATAMI.
1. — At AMI AND Nbighboubhood.
Atami (Higuchi Hotel, foreign
style) is a favourite winter resort
of the Japanese nobility and higher
official class, as it is protected by
high hills from the northerly and
westerly winds which prevail at
that season over Japan. The whole
stretch of coast from Kdzu on the
Tokaido Railway to Atami partakes
more or less of the same advantage ;
and the soft air, the orange-groves,
and the deep blue sea of Odawara
Bay, combine to make of this dis-
trict the Eiviera of Japan.
Atami is most easily reached
from Yokohama by the Tokaido
Railway as far as Kozu, 1^ hr.,
and then by jinrikisha for the rest
of the way, nearly 5 hrs. along the
coast.
_ Itinerary.
KOZU to :— Ri. Cho. M.
Odawara 1 28 4^
Hayakawa 10 f
Nebukawa 1 20 3f
Enoura 1 12 3|
Yoshihama 1 32 4i
Izu-san 2 12 5|
ATAMI 18 U
Total 9 24 23i
The road is delightfully pictur-
esque and representatively Japa-
nese, leading first under an ancient
avenue most of the way to Oda-
wara, and thence up and down
along the coast, with ever-changing
views of sea and land and of Yries
Island smoking in the distance.
The little peninsula whose neck is
crossed about half-way is called
Cape Manazuru.
Travellers approaching Atami
from the Kyoto side may find it a
convenient saving of time to aUght
at Numazu station, and thence to
proceed to Atami over the hills, — a
pretty walk of about 5 hrs. ; road
practicable also, except after heavy
rain, for jinrikishas with two men.
The distance is estimated at 7 ri.
From the town of Mishima to
Atami is about the same.^ During
most of the ascent, a fine near
view is obtained of Fuji, with
to the 1. Amagi-san and the lower
ranges of the peninsula of Izu,
and in front the Bay of Numazu at
Fuji's base. The view from the
top of the ridge is some^^hat dis-
appointing.
A third way, much to be recom-
mended to good walkers, is that
from Miyanoshita via Ashinoyu to
Hakone (see p. 101), and thence
over the hiUs by the Ten Province
Pass (see p. 106) with its incom-
parable view. The ascent is not
very steep, but the descent on the
Atami side is short and abrupt.
The total distance from Miyano-
shita to Atami by this way is be-
tween 6 And 7 ri.
Fourthly and lastly, Atami may
be reached by small steamer from
Kozu, touching at Odawara an<l
Manazuru. It is possible that some
eccentric persons may prefer this
means of approaching it.
The curiosity for which Atami
is noted is its geyser (O-yw), which
breaks out once in every four hours
in the middle of the town. It ori-
ginally shot straight up into the
air, but is now partially enclosed,
and an inhalation house {Kyuki-
kwan) has been erected by the au-
thorities for patients suffering
from affections of the throat and
lungs, the salt in which the steam
of the geyser is rich being benefi-
cial in such cases. The elegant
house close behind the Kyuki-
kwan, on the other side of the
small creek which flows through the
town, is a villa formerly belonging
Atami and Neighbourhood.
109
to the millionaire, Mr. Iwaeaki, and
now the property of His Imperial
Highness, the Crown Prince. The
cHief productions of Atami are a
beautifully delicate kind of paper,
called gampishi, literally 'wild-
goose skin paper/ and a delicious
and wholesome sweatmeat called
ame, which is made of rice or
millet.
The best walks near Atami are : —
1. To the grove of Kinomiya, a
few minutes' distance from the
hotel. At the far-end of this grove,
are some of the finest camphor-
trees (kusunoki) in Japan.
2. To Uomi, the hut visible high
up on the cliff which shuts in
Atami Bay to the S. It is a steep
walk of some 20 min., but the
lovely view from the top amply
repays all trouble. The name Uo-
mi, lit. 'fish-outlook,' refers to
the use to which this post of ob^
eervation is put. When a school
of bonitoe is expected — and they
frequently visit the bay in enor-
mous numbers — a man stands on
this eminence, whence he can
clearly see down to a great depth
in the water, and make signs to
the fishermen below, indicafing to
them the direction in which it will
behest to turn.
3. To the hot springs of Izn-san,
\ ri. They are situated on the
rock below the highway, in a man-
ner resembling swallows' nests.
4. To Baienji, a pretty park.
This is a pleasant level walk of
less than 1 ri,
6. To Tosawa, i hr. climb half-
way up Higane-san to a beautiful
grove of t^ees. There one may
torn to the r., and return by way
of the vill. of Izu-san. (This is
not below the highway, as are the
hot springs of Izu-san, mentioned
in No. 3.)
6. To the little port of AJiro
{Inn, Tabako-ya), a steep but very
pretty walk over the hills, return-
ing, if preferred, by boat. The
walk takes about 2i hrs., the return
by sea less. Ajiro, which lies at
the S. end of a beautiful bay, can
also be reached from Atami by
small coasting steamer.
The following all day expeditions
may be recommended : —
7. The climb up Higane-san, and
the return down a steep narrow
gorge r. from the temple there to
the hot springs of Tugawarai
thence back (by jinrikisha, if pre-
ferred) vi& Yoshihama on the
Atami main road.
8. By boat to Ito (Wada), 6 ri
down the coast, and thence viA the
baths of Shishido (Matsubara),
where a guide should be procured,
to Omuro-»an, an extinct volcano
much resembling Fuji in shape,
and therefore often called by the
country folk Fuji no Imoto, * Fuji's
Younger Sister,' or Sengen-yama
(Sengen is an alternative name of
the Goddess of Fuji). About 1^ hr.
is required to wa]k from Shishido
to the base, which is half-way be-
tween the hamlets of Ikemura and
Totari ; thfence it is 20 min. more
to the summit, from which there
is a fine panorama. The crater is
about 250 yds. in diameter, and
some 80 ft. deep. The bottom is
covered with scattered blocks of
lava. To the E. of this volcano
stands another smaller one called
Komwro-zan,
2. — From Hakonb to the Hot
Springs of Shuzenji and over
Amaqi-san to the Port op
Shimoda in Izit.
Itinerary,
HAKONEto:— Bi. Cho. M.
Mishima 8 21 8f
Ohito 3 32 9i
Uryuno 6 i
SHUZENJI 26 If
Yu-ga-shima ... 3 18 8^
Nashimoto 4 32 12
SHIMODA 4 34 12
Total 21 24 52f
110
Route 7. — The Penmsula of Izu.
This is a two or three days' trip,
which should be arranged in such
fashion as to sleep the first night
at Shuzenji, the second at Shi-
moda ; or else the second set Yu-ga-
shima, and the third at Shimoda.
It is possible to go in jinrikishas
from Mishima to Shuzenji, and
again a short way out of Shimoda.
But take it altogether, the road
is very hilly, and scarcely to be re-
commended except to pedestrians,
who will find it replete with natural
beauty.
The first stage, as far as Mishi-
ma, takes the traveller along the
old roughly paved Tokaido, which,
soon af^r leaving Hakone, rises to
a height of 2,970 ft. above the sea,
and then again descends. About
half-way down is a vantage-point
1., commanding a fine view of the
country E. of Numazu. The river
Kanogawa is here seen wiuding
between groups of hills, beyond
which rises the bolder mass of
Amagi-san. From
Mishima (Inns, Sekoroku, Saga-
mi-ya) to a vill. called Daiba, the
road crosses a plain near the head
of the Gulf of Suruga. . At Daiba it
turns up the valley of the Kano-
gawa, passing through the hamlet
of Ho jo, noted in history as the
birthplace of the founder of the
great Hojo family, who, during the
13th century and a portion of the
14th, ruled Japan as 'Eegents'
(Shikken) in the name of the
* Puppet Shoguns ' of Kamakura.
The scenery the whole way up the
valley is extremely pretty, includ-
ing, on turning back, most charm-
ing views of Fuji. A striking
object on the road is the overhang-
ing rock called Jbyama, which is
seen to the r. beyond Hojo. The
pref ectural road, which has hitherto
been followed, is abandoned a short
way out of Oliito for the path up
the 1. bank of the Katsura-gawa
leading to
Shuzenji (Inn, *Arai-ya). De-
lightfully situated in a secluded
valley, this place is resorted to
on account of the mineral spring
which spurts up in the middle
of the streajn forming, if one
may so say, the village high
street, and which thus allows the
bathers to enjoy a hot and a cold
bath at the same time, according
as they incline their bodies a
little more to one side or to the
other. The water is also led into
the inns by means of pipes. A
little more than i ri after leaving
Shuzenji, the traveller should tell
the guide to lead him a couple
of chd off the main road to visit
the Aaahi-no-taki, a cascade of about
100 ft. in height, which tumbles
down over the rocks, forming a
series of four or ^ve falls. All
this neighbourhood is full of hot
springs, those of 8eko^no-taki being
the most notable off the main road
(8 chO from Yu-ga-shima, and very
picturesquely situated). On the
main roskd are those of
Tu-ga-stlimii (Inn, Yumoto-ya,
poor), in whose vicinity — the dis-
tance is some 30 chd — is the pretty
cascade of Joren-taki, formed by
the waters of the Kanogawa fall-
ing over a precipice 60 ft. high.
The • 3i ri separating Yu-ga-shima
from Nashiinoto are occupied by
the ascent and descent of the
Amagi-toge, which is not steep for
most of the way, as the path does
not lead over the highest part of
Amagi-San. Amagi-San, it should
be mentioned, is the general name
given to the whole mountain mass
stretching across the promon-
tory of Izu from E. to W., the
loftiest summit of which is called
Banjiro. Beyond Nashimoto the
road crosses the Konabe-toge, a
climb of 18 chd, and after passing
Mitsukuri, descends a pictui'esque
valley, well-cultivated and irrigated
by the waters of the Nozugawa, a
stream which flows into the har-
bour of Shimoda, and which from
the hamlet of Hongo is navigable for
fiat-bottomed boats. The country
Route 8. — Viies Island,
111
all around is beautifully diversified,
and the soil carefully cultivated,
every hill being laid out in a series
of terraces planted with rice and
barley. Near Hongo stands the
small hamlet of Bendaiji, noted for
its hot mineral springs. The accom-
modation, however, is poor. Fur-
ther on, the valley widens till it
forms an open extensive plain
before reaching
Shimoda (Intis, Awaman^^ro, Ma-
tsumoto-ya), a compactly built and
regularly laid-out town, situated
on the banks of the Nozugawa.
The situation of Shimoda is such
as to command a healthy climate,
owing to the dryness of the soil
and the fresh sea-breezes. The
harbour, though small, is safe and
convenient. There is also an inner
anchorage for small junks and
boats, which is connected with the
Nozugawa. It is artificially con-
structed by means of dykes and
a breakwater. Shimoda exports
most of the stone used for the new
buildings in Tokyo. The stone
comes from extensive quarries, or
rather mines, near the vill. of
Kisami, which will repay a visit.
Shimoda was'flrst visited in 1864 by Com-
modore Perry and the ships of the United
States sqaadron. By the treaty which he
concluded, it was constituted an Open Port
for American shipping; and here Mr.
HarriB, the American Minister, resided
until the substitution of Kaaagawa as a
trading port in 1859.
The easiest way te quit Shimoda
is by small steamer te Atami.
3. — Shimoda to Atami by the
Coast.
It is also possible to complete the
round of the peninsula of Izu by
following the path which skirts
the coast. This journey, though
fatiguing, is extremely pretty, and
is quite off the beaten track. The
path continually winds up and
down the cliffs along the sea-shore,
passing a succession of picturesque
nooks and bays. The itinerary is
as foUoivs:
SHIMODA te :— Ri. Chd. M.
Hama (hot spring)... 1 28 4^
Inatori 4 10 loj
Yawatano 8 29 9i
Ite (Wada) 3 10 8
Usami 1 10 3
Ajiro 2 — 5
ATAMI 2 18 6
Total 18 33 46
From Atami te Kozu on the To-
kaido Railway by the itinerary
(reversed) given at the beginning
of this route.
4.— From Yu-ga-shima to Atami.
This walk from the centre of the
peninsula te the coast offers superb
views. The itinerary is as follows :
YTJ-OA-SHIMAte:— J2i. Chd. M,
Nagano — 20 1^
Harab5 2 — 5
Hiekawa 1 19 3f
Ito (Wada) 2—5
ATAMI 5 28 14
Total 11 31 29
ROUTE 8.
Vkies Island.
Tries Island, called Izu no Oshima
by the Japanese, is the largest and
most accessible of the Igu no Shichi-
to, or 'Seven Isles of Izu,' which
streteh away for over 100 miles in
a southerly direction from near
the entrance of Tokyo Bay te 33°
lat. N. The ever-smoking volcano
on Yries Island is sighted by all
ships bound for Yokohama.
In ancient days Eastern Japan, then
semi-barbarous, was used as a place of
banishment for criminals expelled from
the Central part of the Empire,— Nara,
Kyoto, and their environs, where the
Mikado held his Court. When the main-
land of E. Japan became settled, the
112
Boute 8, — Tries Island,
islands alone continued to be used as con-
vict settlements, and they retained this
character till quite recent times. There
were exiles living on Yries as late as the
end of the 18th centuiy. On English
charts, Hachijo (misspelt Fatsisio), the
southernmost of the group, is sometimes
stated to be 'a place of exile for the
grandees of Japan.' But it is a mistake
to suppose that Hachijo was peculiar in
this respect, or that ' grandees ' were
the only class of persons transported
thither. The most noted of the many
exiles to Yries was the famous archer
Tametomo, who was banished there in
1166, and whose prowess forms a favourite
subject with Japanese romance writers
and artists. His picture may be seen on the
bock of some of the Japanese bank-notes.
The current English name of Yries Island
is derived from that of Captain Martin
Grerritsz Yries, a Dutch navigator who
discovered it in 1648. Yries Island was
noted until recent years for its peculiar
dialect and for the retention of curious
old customs. But few remnants of these
now survive, excepting the coiffure of the
women and their habit of carrying loads
on the head.
Vries Island has no regnlar and
but little irregular steam commu-
nication with the outer world. The
best way to reach it is by fishing-
boat from Misaki (see p. 60),
whence the fare with 5 sailors
should be about 10 yen. The wea-
ther being favourable, any point
on the coast of the island may
be reached in from 6 to 8 hrs. The
island may also be reached from
Shimoda or Ajiro in Izu, or by junk
from Reigan-jima, Tokyo. The
native craft cannot, however, be
recommended to any persons un-
acquainted with the language or
unaccustomed to Japanese ways ;
and the many delays and dis-
appointments caused by the un-
certainty of the communication
with the mainland are hardly
counterbalanced, except to the
investigator of volcanic phenomena,
by such interest as the island
possesses. The best season for the
trip is the early spring, the next
being the winter.
There are six villages on the
island, all situated on the coast,
and named respectively Motomura
(more correctly Niijima), Nomashi^
Sashikiji, Habu, Senzu, and Okada.
Of these Motomura is the best to
stop at, whilst Habu has the ad-
vantage of possessing a small har-
bour— the crater of an ancient
submerged volcano — ^and is there-
fore the easiest to take ship from
when departing. There are no inns
on Yries Island, excepting a poor one
at Motomura ; but accommodation
can be obtained at the house of the
Narnuhi (Headman) of each village.
The distances along the road or
path connecting the villages are
approximately as follows (the es-
timate is that g^ven by the local
officials, and seems to be a rather
liberal one) : —
Ri. Cho, M.
SenzutoOkada 1 — 2^
Okada to Motomura ... 2 — 5
Motomura to Nomashi... 1 — 2^
Nomashi to Sashikiji ... 3 — 7^
Sashikiji to Habu — 19 U
For the most part the road runs
at some distance from the coast,
which it only rejoins on nearing
the villages ; and there are also a
number of paths in all directions
used by the inhabitants for bring-
ing down fire-wood from the hill-
sides. Usually the way Hes
through a low wood of camellia,
skimmia, and other evergreens,
and sometimes, as for instance
between Motomura and Nomashi,
along a charming fern-clad dell.
Pheasants are abundant.
There is no road round the E.
coast from Habu to Senzu, but the
distance is approximately 6 ri, and
the way leads over the desolate
slope of the volcano by which the
whole centre of the island is occu-
pied. The name of the volcano is
Mihara, 2,500 ft. high. From its
summit smoke perpetually issues,
and it is subject to frequent erup-
tions. The nearest point on the
coast to the summit of the mountain
is Nomashi, but the ascent may be
made equally well from Motomura.
The climb requires only 2 hrs..
Volcano of Mihara,
118
and the whole expedition, includ-
in^ stoppages, can easily be made
during a forenoon. Passing through
the village, the ascent, as made
from Motomura, leads for the
first hour through the wood, and
then emerges on to volcanic
scorise, where nothing grows but
small tufts of grass and dwarf
alder. The eminence seen ahead
to tlie 1. and called Kagan^-bata
is not the summit of the mountain,
but only a portion of the waU of an
immense ancient crater, in the
midst of which stands the present
cone^ with its much smaller though
still considerable dimensions. From
this point it is a five minutes'
walk to the lip of the ancient
crater, which here forms a flat oval
waste of minute scorisB, with stones
scattered here and there. Its
greatest length on this side is esti-
mated at nearly a mile, and it is
surrounded by low broken hillocks
of lava^ against whose sides the
sand is pHed up. Half an hour's
walk across this desolate waste,
where not even a blade of grass is
to be seen, brings us to the little
torii marking the Nomashi approach
to the mountain, and forming the
limit beyond which women are not
allowed to proceed. From this
point there is a fine view. In
front, and most conspicuous of all,
are the other islands and islets of
the group, the curious pyramidal
TosMma, with Shikine and K5zu
behind; to the 1. of Toshima the
longer and lower outline of Niijima,
with little Udoma in front. To the 1.
again, but considerably more dis-
tajit, are the larger islands of
Miyake and Mikura, while on
exceptionally clear days the outline
of Hachijo — so at least it is asserted
— can be descried. To the W.
are seen Amagi-san and other
portions of the peninsula of Izu,
the towering cone of_Fuji, with the
lesser Hakone and Oyama ranges ;
to the N. Misaki in Sagami, and to
the N.E. the outline of the peninsula
of Boshu, which shuts in Tokyo
Bay from the open Pacific. The
cHmb hence up to the top of the
mountain takes ^ hr.
Mihara may also be ascended
from Habu or from Senzu, the
climb on that side of the island
being, however, much longer and
more difficult.
Excepting the ascent of the
volcano, there are few walks in the
island deserving of mention. The
collector of ferns will, however,
find numerous and beautiful species,
not only between Motomura and
Nomashi, but also at a place called
Bdzvrga-Hora, i.e., the Priest's Dell,
about 1 m. out of Habu in the
direction of Senzu. A spare day at
Habu may also be devoted to walk-
ing along the coast towards Senzu ;
but the vapoinr spring situated on
the mountain-side between the two
places, of which the visitor will be
told by the natives, is at a distance
— 5 ri — which makes it difficult of
access in one day, on account of the
arduous nature of the ground ; and
there is not even a shed in which to
take shelter from the weather. It
is resorted to in cases of wounds
and bruises, the friends of the sick
person erecting some temporary
cover. Futago-yama, the double*
crested mountain, whose red hue,
caused by the presence of brittle
lava of that colour, is so conspicuous
from Habu, is a mere spur of the
volcano, and has no special in-
terest.
114
Eoute 9, — Fnji and yeighhourliood.
ROUTE 9.
Ftjji and Neighboubhood.
\, genebal in70buation. 2. as-
cent fbom gotekba station.
3. ascent fbom htjbayama. 4.
ascent fbom st7ba8hibi. 6. as-
cent fbom toshiba. 6. ascent
fbom hito-ana. 7. ascent fbom
sttyama. 8. summit of fuji. 9.
cibcuit of fuji half-wat up.
10. cibcuit of the base, cave of
hito-ana, kami-ide watebfall8.
1. — Gbnebal Infobmation.
Time. Mere hurried ascent of
Fuji and back to Yokohama, 1 day
and 1 night ; including circuit of
base, 3 to 4 days.
The pleasantest plan is to com-
bine the ascent of Fuji with a visit
to the Miyanoshita-Hakone dis-
trict, giving at least a week to the
entire trip, and climbing the
mountain during whichever por-
tion of that time seems to promise
the most settled weather. The
ascent can only be made between
(approximately) the 15th July and
10th September, the huts to ac-
commodate pilgrims being closed
during the rest of the year. The
best time is from the 25th July to
the 10th August.
The best way to reach Fuji from
Yokohama is to take the Tokaido
Railway as far as Gotemba Sta-
tion, 3 hrs., where guides and
horses can be engaged, and rough
quilts and charcoal to ward off the
cold air at night in the huts on
the mountain top can be procured.
The traveller should bring his own
food. Persons coming up the To-
kaid5 from the direction of Kobe
and Kyoto should alight either at
Iwabuchi or at Suzukawa (see
Route 38), and ascend from Mura-
yama. Those coming from Kofu
will ascend from Yoshida. It is
also possible to ascend Fuji from
Subashiri on the E. side, which
indeed was the favourite route be-
fore the opening of the railway,
and is still adopted by many ; also
from Suyanuk, S. £., and Hito-ana,
S. W. ; but these last two have
nothing special to recommend them.
Details of the ascent from Gotem-
ba Station, etc., are given below.
Numbers of travellers prefer to
reach. Fuji from Miyanoshita or
Hakone, by walking to Gotemba
Station over the Otome-toge (see p,
103). In this case they can provide
themselves with all necessaries at
one of the Miyanoshita hotels. It
is always advisable to take plenty
of warm clothing, as the tempera-
ture falls below freezing point at
night on the summit of the moun-
tain even during the hottest period
of summer. It is also advisable to
take an extra supply of food, as
pai'ties have occasionally been
detained on the mountain side by
stress of weather, unable either to
reach the summit or to descend to
the base. It is possible, by sleeping
at Gotemba Station or at Mura-
yama, and starting at dawn, to
ascend to the summit and descend
again in a single day (in local Japa-
nese parlance hi-yamay that' is
* day-mountain*). Counting the
working day as having 15 hrs. (4
A.M. to 7 P.M.), this would allow 11
hrs. for the ascent, including short
stoppages, 1 hr. at the top, alid 3
hrs. for the descent. The shortest
time in which the ascent and des-
cent have been known to be made,
is 11 hrs. 37 min., including all
stoppages ; 6 hrs. 27 min. was the
actual time of ascent, and 2 hrs. 2
min. that of descent. But persons
less desirous of * breaking the re-
cord' than of really seeing what
they have come so far to see, are
strongly urged to pursue the follow-
ing course: — Cleave Gotemba Sta-
tion or Murayama before daylight
— say at 2 a.m. — ^thus providing
the chance of a good sunrise on
the way up. After sunrise, do the
General Information,
115
rest of the ascent slowly, reaching
the summit about midday. Having
establishing himself in one of the
huts on the summit, the traveller
should go down into the crater, make
the round of the crater, and spend
the night at the top. This will
afford the chance of a sunset and
of a second sunrise, after which the
descent can be at once begun. The
descent will take most people from
4^ to 5 hrs. The great advantage
of this plan is that it multiplies
the chances of a good view from
the summit, — such views being
much more often obtained at sun-
rise and sunset than in the middle
of the day/ and being by no means
certain at any time.
Ajyropoa of views, may be men-
tioned the Japanese term Fvji-mi
ju-san-shii, that is, the Thirteen
Provinces from which Fuji is
visible. These are Musashi, Bd-
shu, Kazusa, Shimosa, Hitachi,
Shimotsuke, Eotsuke, Shinshu,
Koshu, Totomi, Suruga, Izu, and
Sagami. The map of these pro-
vinces is an excellent specimen
of old-fashioned Japanese carto-
graphy. A very slight acquaintance
with the written characters will
make it one of the most useful
maps to travel with.
Fuji is much more easily ascend-
ed than many mountains far in-
ferior in height, as it presents no
obstacles in the shape of rocks or
undergrowth. The first 6,000 ft.
of the ascent can moreover be
performed on horseback, after
which the accomplishment of the
remainder is merely a question of
steady perseverance. The distance
to the summit from the point
called Uma-gaeshi, is unequally
divided into ten parts called go
(the unit being oddly enough a shd,
which is a measure of capacity
containing about 1^ quarts), which
are subdivided in some cases into
halves called go-shaku. The first
station is thus ichi-gd-me, the second
ni-go-me, and so on, the last before
the summit is reached being ku-go-
me, or No. 9. One explanation
given by the Japanese of this pecu-
liar method of calculation is that
the mountain resembles in shape
a heap of dry rice poured out of a
measure, and that consequently its
subdivisions must correspond to
the fractions of the latter. How-
ever this may be, the go is used as
a division of distance in other
parts of Japan, especially in Satsu-
ma. At most of these stations, as
as also at the top, are huts where
accommodation for the night, boiled
rice, and water can be obtained.
The number of coolies required
wiU of course depend on the amount
of baggage to be carried. When
ladies are making the ascent, it is
advisable to have a spare man or
two or help them when tired.
Stout gaiters are recommended to
be worn during the descent, to
prevent sand and ashes from get-
ting inside the boots.
Fuji, often called Fuji-tan^ that is
* Mount Fuji,' and by the poets Fuji-no-
yama, that is ' the Mountain of Fuji,'
whence the form Fusiyama often used by
Europeans, stands between the provinces
of Suruga and Koshtl, and is the highest,
the most beautiful, and the most famous
mountain in Japan. The. height of Ken-
ga-mine, its loftiest peak, has been vari-
ously estimated at 12,234 ft. (£[nipping) ;
12,341 ft. (Chaplin) J 12,360 ft. (Favre-
Brandt) ; 12,366 ft. (Stewart) ; 12,400—
12,460 (Milne) ; 12,4.S7 ft, (Rein).
Though now quiescent, Fuji must still
be accounted a volcano. Frequent men-
tion is made in Japanese literature of the
smoke of Fuji, which, if the expressions
used by poets may be taken as indicating
facts, must have formed a constant feature
in the landscape at least as late as the
14th century. A hundred years earlier it
seems, however, to have been already less
violent than the discharge from Asama-
yama in Shinshtl. An author who flou-
rished about the end of the 9th century
saj7S : * There is a level space at the sum-
mit, about one ri square, having a depres-
sion in the centre shaped like a cauldron,
at the bottom of which is a pond. This
cauldron is usually filled with vapour of a
pure green (or blue) colour, and the bot-
tom appears like boiling water. The
steam is visible at a great distance from
the mountain. In 967 a small mountain
was formed at the eastern base of Fuji.'
This was probably the small hump called
116
Route P. — Fuji and Neighbourhood,
Ko-Fuji, on the r. of the second station on
the Suyama ascent. A traveller's journal
of the year 1021 speaks of smoke rising
from the slightly flattened summit, while
at night fire was seen to issue from the
crater. Even at the present day, small
quantities of steam continue to issue
through the ashes on the E. or Subashiri
Bide ot the mountain, just outside the lip
of the crater.
Fuji stands by itself, rising with
one majestic sweep from a plain
almost surrounded by mountains.
The S. side slopes right down to
the sea, its outline being broken
only on the S.E. by the rugged
peaks of Ashitaka-yama. On the
N. and W. rise steep granite
Ganges, stretching away from the
Misaka-toge nearly to the junction
of the Shiba-kawa with the Fuji-
kawa. Against these mountains
the showers of ashes which were
ejected from the crater have piled
themselves up, and confined in
their separate basins the waters of
the Motosu, Shoji, and other lakes.
The E. side is shut in by volcanic
mountains of undetermined origin,
beginning near Subashiri, and ex-
tending southwards into the penin-
sula of Izu. Among them lie Lake
Hakone, with the numerous hot
springs of Miyanoshita, Ashino-
yu, Atami, and their neighbour-
hood. The base of the mountain
is cultivated up to a height of
about 1,500 ft., above which spreads
a wide grassy moorland to 4,000 ft.,
where the forest commences. The
upper limit of this varies consider-
ably, being lowest on the E. side,
namely, about 5,500 ft. on the
ascent from Suyama, and 7,900 on
the Murayama side. But on the
W. face, between the Yoshida and
Murayama ascents, and looking
down over the plain round Hito-
ana, it must erfcend as high as
9,000 ft. or more. This difference
is no doubt due in a great measure
to the comparatively recent dis-
turbance on the S.E. side, which
caused the present conformation of
Hoei-zan, when the greater part
of the ashes thrown out fell in the
direction of Suyama, destroying
the forest, and leaving a desert waste
which only a long lapse of years
can again cover with vegetation.
To the same cause, namely, com-
paratively recent volcanic action,
must be ascribed the almost entire
absence of those Alpine plants
which abound on the summits of
other high mountains in the neigh-
bourhood, such as Ontake, Shirane
in Koshii, and Yatsu-ga-take.
Above the forest lies a narrow zone
of bushes, chiefly dwarfed larch.
A few species of hardy plants are
found up to a height of 10,000 ft.
on some parts of the cone.
2. — Ascent fbom Gotemba
Station.
Gotemba Station (Inn, Yoshiji-
ma-ya) is 12 cho from the vill. of
Gotemba; and there is no longer
any necessity for going to the
latter and thence on to Subashiri,
as was the general practice in pre-
railway times, there being now a
direct and shorter way up the
mountain from the Station by what
is called the Nakabata route,
avoiding both those villages. If
the traveller intends to spend the
night at Gotemba Station, he
should try to arrive early, so as to
avoid difficulty in obtaining accom-
modation at the inn. In order to
economise one's strength, it is
advisable to take horses for the first
2i hrs. of the ascent across an
open and gently rising country.
This takes one beyond Uma-gae-
shi, where horses are supposed to be
left, to Tarobo (also called Ko-
mitake), where they mibst be left.*
At Tarobo (so-called from a
goblin who is there worshipped),
staves are sold to help climbers on
their way up. These staves are
eng^raved with the name of the
* Uma-ffoeshi, lit. * horse send back,* ia
the general name for that point on a
mountain beyond which it is impossible
to ride.
Ascent from Viwiotis Sides'.
117
mountain, and can have a further
inscription added by the priests
who dwell inside the crater.
Though Fuji, as already stated,
is theoretically divided on all its
sides into ten parts, some of
the stations no longer exist in
practice — that is, have no rest-
huts — while others are subdivided.
On the Gotemba ascent, only sta-
tions 2i, 3, 4, 6, 7, 8, and 10 (the
top) exist. Nos. 3 and 4 (san-go
and shi-go) are the best, and No. 6
(roku-go) is fair. This should be
borne in mind, in case of its being
necessary to call a halt for the
night midway.
From No. 2^ to 3 the path skirts
Hoei-zan, where that from Suyama
joins in 1., and the steep portion of
the ascent begins. Above No. 7
the climb becomes more fatiguing
still, being now over loose cinders.
. Above No. 8, patches of snow will
probably be found in rifts in the
lava rock ; but there are nowhere
any actual snow-fields to be tra-
versed. At No. 10 — ^the tcfp — there
are three stone huts, fairly roomy
and comfortable. Should they all
be occupied by pilgrims, the travel-
ler must walk round to the huts on
the Subashiri side of the lip of the
crater, only a couple of hundred
yards distant.
The descent as far as No. 7 is
the same as the ascent. At No. 7,
it diverges to the r. down a glissade
(Jap. hashiri) of loose sand, over
which one may skim at such a rate
as to reach No. 2^ in less than 1
hr. From Tarobo onwards, the
descent will occupy nearly as much
time as was required for the as-
cent. The entire journey down
from the summit to Gotemba
Station can be accompHshed in 4
hrs.
3. — Ascent, from Mubayaha.
From Marayama (Inn, by Fuji
Soshiro) to the Uma-gaeshi, or
riding limit on this side of the
mountain, is a distance of 3 ri 8 chd.
Thence onward it is necessary to
walk. Of the various stations. No.
5 is the most to be recommended,
though all are fair, the ascent from
Murayama having long been that
most patronised by the native
pilgrims, and therefore styled the
Omote-guclii, or ' Front Entrance,'
to the mountain.
4.— ASGENT FROM SUBASHIRI.
At Subashiri, the inn generally
patronised by foreigners is Yone-
yama. Yamada-ya also is fair.
The road to the Uma-gcbeshi on
this side leads for 2 ri up a broad
avenue through the forest, whence
it is another 2 ri to a place called
Chujiki-ba, where a halt for re-
freshments is generally made. This
is 8 chd below station No. 1. The
best stations are 49, 6, and especi-
ally No. 8. At No. 9 is a small
shrine known as Mukai Sengen, that
is ' the Goddess of Fuji's Welcome,'
intimating to the weary wayfarer
that he is nearly approaching the
goddess's sanctum.
5. — Ascent from Yoshida.
Tosh id a is an unusually long
village, divided into an upper por-
tion (Kami Yoshida) and a lower
portion (Shimo Yoshida). From
Kami Yoshida (Inn, Kogiku) the
way" to Uma-gcieshi, the 2nd sta-
tion, as far as which it is possible
to ride, lies up an avenue. The
upper edge of the forest is not
quitted till No. 5 is reached. Thus
the view on the way up is less
good by this route than on the
Gotemba and Murayama sides.
6. — Ascent from Hito-ana.
The ascent from Hito-ana (Inn,
Akaike Keikichi) is laborious, and
the view much spoilt by the
dense forest through which the
track lies. It is therefore not
recommended. Travellers wishing
to visit the beautiful waterfalls of
Kami-ide (see p. 121) might, how-
118
Route 9. — Fwji mid Neighbourhood.
ever, find it worth their while to
descend on this side. If their lug-
gage is light, they can take it with
them over the mountain. If not,
they must allow plenty of time for
sending it round the base.
7. — Ascent prom Sutama.
This is an alternative way for
persons staying at Hakone, who can
reach Suyama vik the Lake and
the Fukara Pass in 6 to 8 hrs.
Coolies for the whole trip, includ-
ing the ascent of Fuji, should be
engaged at Hakone, as the re-
sources of Suyama are limited,
though there is a tea-house (Wa-
tanabe Hideo). But the ascent
from Gotemba Station is to be
preferred. The path up Fuji from
Suyama joins the path up from
Gotemba at station No. 3.
8. — Summit op Fuji.
The summit of the mountain
consists of a series of peaks sur-
rounding the crater, the diameter
of which is not far short of 2,000
ft. The descent into it, down the
loose talus of rock and cinders
close to the huts at the top of the
Murayama ascent, is quite easy;
still it is advisable to take a guide.
The bottom is reached in 20 min.
The floor, which is formed of
cinders, inclines slightly from W.
to E., and is intersected by small
stream-beds, which at the E. end
terminate among the loosely piled
lava masses forming the core of the
mountain. All round, except where
the descent is made, rise precipi-
tous rocky walls, from which large
pieces detach themselves from time
to time with a loudxjrackling sound
like musketry. On the W. side,
immediately under Ken-ga-mine,
there is usually a large snow-slope.
The depth has been variously cal-
culatedat 416 ft., 548 ft., and 584 ft.
The return to the edge will take
about 25 min.
Before dawn the pilgrims betake
themselves to Ken-ga-mine, the
peak on the W. of the crater,
and the true summit of the moun-
tain, to await the sun's rising. As
the luminary approaches the hori-
zon and all the clouds about it
glow with the most brilliant hues
of red flame, the feeling of longing
expectation seems almost to over-
come them; but as soon as the
burniner disc appears, they greet it
devoutly, rubbing their chapleta
between their hands and muttering
prayers to the great deity.
Ken-ga-mine commands a mar-
vellously extensive view. To the
S. stretches the Gulf of Suruga,
shut in on the E. by the lofty
promontory of Izu, and confined on
the W. by Miozaki at the termi-
nation of the long range divid-
ing the valley of the Abekawa from
that of the Fujikawa. S.W. is the
broad pebbly bed of the Fujikawa,
its course above the point where it
crosses the Tokaido being hidden
by the lower hills. Westwards are
seen all the lofty peaks of the
border range of Koshii and Shin-
shii, beginning with the angular
granite obelisk of Koma-ga-take
and its lesser neighbours Jizo and
Ho-o-zan, then the three summits
of Shirane, known as Kaigane, Ai-
no-take, and Nodori, the Koma-ga-
take of Shinshii rising between the
Tenryu-gawa and Kisogawa, and
so on to Ena-san in Mino and
the top of Shichimen-zan near
Minobu. Further to the r., ex-
tending northwards, comes the
great range dividing far-off Hida
from Shinshu, amongst whose
peaks may be distinguished Nori-
kura, Yari-ga-take, and, further
remote iv Etchu, the volcanic
summits of Tateyama. Gradually
moving E. again, along the north-
ern horizon, we distinguish the
mountains near Nagano, — Ken-no-
mine and the extinct volcano of
My5ko-zan. Nearer in the fore-
ground rise the numerous sum-
mits of Yatsu-ga-take; and then
Stmnnit of Fuji,
119
glancing further N., we perceive
Asama-yama's smoking crater, the
mountains about the Mikuni Pass,
and next all the Nikko mountains,
Shirane, Nantai-zan, and lesser
peaks. E. of Yatsu-ga-take is seen
Kimpu-zan, easily known by its
rounded shoulder and the pUlar of
rocks at the summit ; then Yakushi
and Mitsiunine in Chichibu, till
the eye loses itself in a confusion
of lower ridges. On the E. side
of the crater, from almost any
point that may be chosen, the eye
rests on a prospect less extensive
indeed, but surpassing this in
beauty. Far away across the plain,
is distinctly visible the double
top of Tsukuba in Hitachi, while
further S. we see the outer
edge of the Tokyo plain, with
Tokyo lying far up the bay ; then
in succession Capes Sagami and
Sunosaki, Vries Island, the Gulf
of Sagami, and nearer in the fore-
ground, beautiful Lake Hakone
peacefully embosomed in green
hills.
Few travellers will be fortunate
enough to obtain a perfectly clear
view from the summit of Fuji,
but the best chances are just
before and at sunrise. *Nor,'
says an authority quoted by
Satow and Hawes, * will the pilgrim
be wholly fortunate unless he
sees the superb cloud effects which
the mountain affords. These
are most likely to be enjoyed, in
ordinary summer weather, between
noon and 6 o'clock in the evening,
and they are truly magnificent.
The summit of the mountain re-
mains clear, but its shoulders and
waist are surrounded by billowy
masses of dense white vapour of
indescribable splendour. Here and
there a momentary break may
permit a glimpse of the earth
beneath, but usually nothing can be
seen landward but this vast ocean
of cloud, amid which the peak
stands as the only island in the
world. Turning seaifrard, the ocean
itself can be seen over the circum-
ambient vapour, and affords a
striking contrast to the turmoil
and restless change of form of the
clouds themselves.'
A curious phenomenon may also
sometimes be witnessed at sunrise
from the W. * side of the sum-
mit. As the sun*s rays appear
above the horizon, the shadow of
Fuji (in Japanese, hage-Fvoi) is
thrown in deep outline on the
clouds and mist, which at that
hour clothe the range of mountains
to the west.
Descending again from Ken-ga-
mine, the path passes under it, and
just above the steep talus called
Oya shirazu Ko shirazu (* Heedless of
Parent or Child '), from the notion
that people in danger of falling
over the edge of the crater would
not heed even their nearest
relatives if sharers of. the peril.
The name occurs in similarly
perilous places in many parts of
Japan. Continuing N., the path
skirts the edge of the cone, passing
a huge and precipitous gorge which
appears to extend downwards to the
very base of ■ the mountain. _ This
gorge is what is called the Osawa,
the lower limit of which may be
some 6,000 ft. above the sea, or
only half way from the summit.
Passing across the flank of the Bai-
iwa, or * Thunder Uock,' it goes
outside the crater wall, ascends the
Shaka no wari-ishi (* Shaka's Cleft
Eock '), and leaving Shaka-ga-take
— ^the second loftiest peak — behind,
descends to the Kim-mei-sui
(• Famous Golden Water '), a spring
of ice-cold water situated on the
flat shelf between the N. edge
of the crater and the outer
wall. Ascending again, the path
passes the row of huts at the top
of the ascent from Yoshida
and Subashiri, and reaches a torii
commanding the best view of the
crater. Here it turns again to the
1., and goes outside the wall of
the crater, underneath Kwannon-
120
Route 9. — Fvji and NeiyhhourJtood,
ga-take. Here the interesting
phenomenon may be observed of
steam still issuing from the soil
in several places, one of which
is close to the path, while an-
other lies near at hand on the
1., about 50 ft. down the exterior
of the cone, and a third is seen
immediately underneath a wall
of rock 50 yds. ahead. A few
inches below the surface, the heat
is great enough to boil an egg.
Beyond this point, the path crosses
a depression known as 8eishi-ga-
kuho, ascends E. the 8ai-no-kawara,
dotted with stone cairns raised in
honour of Jizo, descends to the
Gim-mei-sui ( * Famous Silver
Water *) at the top of the Suyama
ascent, and passing under the low
peak named Koma-ga-take, reaches
the huts at the top of the path
from Murayama. Between this
last point and Ken-ga-mine, is a
small crater named Konoshiro-ga-
ike, accessible from the N. The
total distance round the large
crater is said by the Japanese to
be 1 ri, or 2^ miles; but this is
doubtless an exaggeration. An
interesting hour may be devoted to
making the circuit. This will aUow
for pauses at all the best points
of view.
9. — The Chudo-Megubi, or Cir-
cuit OF Fuji Half- Way up.
This walk, though few foreigners
are likely to find leisure for it, is
a favourite with native lovers of
the picturesque, on account of
the panorama which it succes-
sively unfolds. The path encircles
Fuji at heights varying from 9,490
ft. on the Gotemba side (which it
intersects at station No. 6) to 7,450
ft. on the Yoshida side. It is best
to turn to the 1. on starting from
the above-mentioned No. 6 station,
because the path descends a rapid
slope of loose sand from the ridge
of Hoei-zan towards the W., which
would be very fatiguing if taken
in the opposite direction. The
time required for the entire circuit
is from 7 to 8 hrs., the walk offering
no difficulties. At a spot caUed
Komitake, on the N. side of the
cone, there is a hut where accom-
modation can, if necessary, be
obtained for the night.
10. — Circuit op the Base of Fuji.
(Time, 2^—3 days.)
Itinerary.
GOTEMBA Station to :—
Ri. Cho. M.
Gotemba Village.... 12 f
Subashiri 2 18 6
Yamanaka 2 — 5
Yoshida... 2 8 5^
Funatsu 1 — 2i
Kodachi 12 f
Nagahama 1 — 2^
Nishi-no-umi 12 f
Nemba 1 12 3^
Shoji 1 24 4
Motosu 2 — 5
Nebara 18 3
Hito-ana 2 28 6f
Kami-ide 18 3
Qmiya 3 8 7f
SUZUKAWA 3 — 7i
Total 26 6 63f
(From Suzukawa by rail to
Gotemba in 1^ hr.)
As far as Kodachi the way is
practicable for jinrikishas, the
Kago-zaka being the only part
where it is necessary to get out
and walk. Boats can be taken from
Kodachi to Nagahama, from Nishi-
no-umi to Nemba, and from Shoji
across the lake. Pack-horses can
be got at most of the stages, gene-
rally at pretty high prices, and
can be taken the whole round.
A tramway runs from Omiya to
Suzukawa. Travellers are recom-
mended to engage horses for the
whole trip, and thus render them-
selves independent of their luggage,
should they 9.vail themselves of
Bouie 10. — Ways to and from Kofu,
121
the opportunity of doing portions
of the journey by boat.
Excepting the first 5 or 6 n,
the whole of this trip is highly
picturesque, leading, as it does,
along the chain of lak^s — Kawagu-
chi, Nishi-no-Umi, Shoji, and
Motosu— that belt the base of Fuji.
"Were there only good hotels or
g^d private houses to hire, the
shores of all these lakes would
form delightful summer retreats.
Scenery, fishing of sorts (carp,
eels, dkorliara, etc.), short walks for
the delicate, climbing for the
strong and active, bathing, near-
ness to such celebrated excursions
as Fuji, the Misaka-toge, Minobu,
etc., — all the elements of ^ pleasant
holiday are there. Accommoda-
tion can be had at
Gotemba Station, Inn Yoshijima-ya.
,t Village, „ Kawachi-ya.
Subashiri, „ *Yoneyama.
Yamanaka, „ ♦Nammi-ya.
YoBhida, „ ♦Kogiku.
KodacM, „ •Temple of My ohoji.
Nebara, „ Yoshikawa .
Hampei. (
Hito-ana, „ Akaike Kei- 1 P™^'
kichi. J
Kami-ide, „ Fuji-ya.
Also at Kawaguchi {Inn, Umeya), a
little off the way, on the N. side of the
lake of the same name.
The stars in this list indicate only a
relative and very modest excellence.
At Hito-ana is a cave 260 yds.
long, visited by pilgrims anxious
to worship the little image of
Kwannon which sits perched on a
projecting rock at its further end.
But the chief sight on the road is
afforded by the beautiful waterfalls
of Kaiiii-ide, known as Shira-ito no
iaki, or *the White Thread Cas-
cades.' The two largest, some 85
ft. in height, are called respectively
0-dafci and Me-daki, or 'the Male
and Female Cascades,' and there
are more than forty smaller falls,
their children. In the neighbour-
hood is another fine cascade, about
100 ft. high and 30 ft. wide, called
Nen-nen-fuchi.
Persons not caring to make the
entire round of Fuji may visit the
Kami-ide waterfalls by alighting
at Suzukawa station on the Tokai-
do Eailway, whence it is a distance
of 6 ri 8 cho^ the first 3 W of which,
as far as Omiya, by tram. The
way there and back can be done in
a day, under favourable circum-
stances. One may also alight at
Iwabuchi (good inn at station),
whence it is only 5^ ri ; but there
is no tram.
EOUTE 10.
Wats to and from Koru.
1. KOPU AND NEIGHBOUKHOOD, MI-
TAKE, KIMPTJ-ZAN. 2. TOKT5 TO
KOFU BY THE k5sHU KAIDO [sARU-
HASHI TO FUJI]. 3. VALLET OP
THE TAMAGAWA. 4. FROM THE
TOKAIDO TO KOPU vid THE TEMPLES
OP MINOBU. 5. VALLET OF THE
HATAKAWA, ASCENT OF 8HIRANE
SAN. 6. RAPIDS OP THE FUJIKAWA.
7. KOPU TO SHIMO-NO-SUWA ON
, THE NAKASENDO, ASCENT OP KOMA-
GA-TAKE IN KOSHU. 8. KOPU TO
FUJI OVER THE MISAKA-TOGE. 9.
KARUIZAWA TO KOPU OVER THE
TSUYUTARE PASS, ASCENT OF AKA-
DAKE.
Kofii is a pleasant resting-place
after arduous travel, its central
situation in the beautiful province
of Koshu and its proximity to
places of such peculiar interest as
Mitake, Fuji, Minobu, the Eapids
of the Fujikawa, etc., causing it
to be included in so many differ-
ent tours as to render a descrip-
tion of the several ways to and from
it advisable.
122
Eoute 10. — IVnt/H to and from Kd/u,
1. — KoFu AND Neighbourhood.
Kof II {Inns, * Yonekura in Yana-
gi-machi ; Sado-ya j European food
can be obtained in the Choyo-tei
restt. in the public garden, where
also foreign guests are accommo-
dated for the night), the capital of
the prefecture of Yamanashi, is
noted for the progressive spirit of
its people. For its size, it has more
buildings in European style than
any other provincial town in Japan.
Conspicuous amongst these are the
Prefecture, the Normal School, the
Banks, the Court-houses, the Town
Hall, the Industrial School, the
silk-filatures, and the bookselling
and printing establishment of Mr.
Naitb Den-emon, who is also the pro-
prietor of the Kdfu Daily News. The
castle grounds were many years ago
turned into an experimental garden,
where excellent fruit and vege-
tables are grown. From the plat-
form where the keep formerly
stood, there is a fine view of the
town and surrounding country. A
great festival, called Mi-yuki no Ma-
tsuri, is held in Kof u on the 1st April.
The town is noted for kaiki, a thin
silken fabric used for the linings
of dresses and for bed-quilts ; also
for a sweetmeat called tsuki-no~
shizuku, that is * moon -drops,* con-
sisting of grapes coated with sugar.
The province of Koshii produces
the best grapes in Japan, and at-
tempts have been made, of late
years, to produce wine and brandy
from them. The grapes are in
their prime about the end of
September or beginning of October.
Crystals are found in the neigh-
bourhood. A cei-tain inconvenience
is felt in the vicinity of Kdfu by
the difficulty of procuring jinriki-
shas, the native carriage (hasha)
having almost driven them from
the plain.
The chief historical interest of K5fu
centres in its mediaeval hero, .Takeda Shin-
gen, who was one of the fiercest feudal
chieftains of the lawless times that pre-
ceded the establishment of the Tokugawa
dynasty of Shoguns, Born in 1521 as the
eldest son of his father, lord of Koshti,
it was his fate to be unjustly pa«sed over
by that father in favour of his second
brother ; and he was obliged to feign
stupidity as a boy, in order to preserve
his life in safety. When, however, both
youths reached man's estate, Takeda
Shingen's superiority in skill and courage
gained all the warriors of the clan over to
his side, and he succeeded his father with<
out demur. His whole time was spent
in waging war against the barons of the
neighbouring provinces of central and
eastern Japan, especially against Uesugi
Kenshin, lord of Shinshfl. In middle
life he l)ecame converted to the doctrines
of the Tendai sect of Buddhists, built a
temple to the god Bishamon, did public
X)enance, abj^ed the eating of fish and
all intercourse with women, and went so
far as to have himself decorated with the
title of archbishop,— for what ecclesiaa-
tical authorities were going to refuse any-
thing to a zealot who disposed of so many
soldiers ? He did not, however, renounce
his grand passion, war, but kept on
fighting till the end, his latter years
being much disturbed by the conscious-
ness of the growing power of leyasu,
and being divided between quarrels and
reconciliations with that great captain.
When mortally wounded in 1573, he left
orders with his successor to hold no
funeral service in his honour, but to
keep his death a profound secret for three
years, and then to sink his body privately
in Lake Suwa, enclosed in a stone coffin.
This was in order to prevent his nume-
rous foes from taking heail) at the news
of his decease. His last will and testa-
ment was only partially obeyed; for
though his death was kept secret as
long as possible, the body was not sunk
in the lake, but buried at the temple of
Eirinji at Matsuzato, a few miles from
Kofu. The place still exists, the temple
garden being a tasteful specimen of rock-
work on a large scale. Brave but
superstitious, Takeda Shingen was also
an adept at governing men. His people
liked and respected him, as was shown
by the fact that none ever rebelled against
him, evon in that turbulent age when
every man's hand was against every
man.
From Kofu a very pretty excur-
sion may be made to the temples
of JNitiikc, distant about 5 ri.
Jinrikishas can be taken as far as
a place called Kizawa, some 2 ri
from Kofu, whence onwards it is
necessary to walk. The whole
distance can be accomplished in
3 J hrs. The road winds up a fine
rocky valley, crossing and recross-
ing the Kamezawa gawa several
times. Beyond the hamlet of
Mittihe, The Koshu Kaido.
123
Kiyokawa, the river cuts its way
through the rocks so as form a
clianning double cascade called
86-gawar}uchi. A short way op, the
traveller leaves this, the prettiest
part of the road, and ascending to
the r., comes in sight of the rocky
valley in which lie the temples
and village of Mitake. Excepting
the beautiful site, a grove of
magnificent trees, and the fine
stone-work facing the slopes of
the terraces, but little remains of
th« former grandeur of the place,
Tvhich has fallen into the de-
structive hands of modern Shinto
reformers.
The village of Mitnke (Inn,
Tama-ya), 2,800 ft. above the sea,
lies just below the temple grounds,
on the banks of a stream in the
midst of extremely picturesque
scenery, the most conspicuous
rocky peaks being Gah^san — ^the
peculiar sugar-loaf cone — and Ten-
gu-iwa on the opposite side of the
valley. Specimens of rock-crystal
are sold ija. the village. They are
procured chiefly from mines in the
neighbourhood of Kurobera on the
way to Kimpu-zan.
Kimpn-zan, a granite mountain
8,300 ft. high, can be easily ascended
in 1 day from Mitake by making
an early start. The way lies
through the vill. of Kurobera. At
a Shinto shrine, 2\ hrs. beyond
Kurobera, there is a good sized
hut for the accommodation of
piVims ; and here the real ascent
begins, the distance hence to the
summit being about 2,000 ft. The
way lies over a heap of large
granite boulders. At two places,
ladders are fixed to assist the climb-
er over difficult gaps, and at two
others chains g^ve additional secu-
rity ; but even without the help of
these, there would be no danger.
The top is crowned by a huge
inaccessible mass of granite, rising
to a height of some 50 ft., and
forming a landmark by which the
mountain can be recognised at a
great distance. The view includes
Asama-yama on theN., Yatsu-ga-
take almost due W., Fuji to the
S., and the lofty mountain range
on the Western boundary of the
province of Kdshu.
2. — From Tokyo to Kopu by the
KosHu Kaido.
The first stage of this journey is
by train from either Shimbashi or
Shinjiku station, 1^ hr. from the
latter. (See p. 94.) The itine-
rary of the rest of the route is as
follows : —
HACHIOJIto:— Ri. Cho.M.
Komagino 1 27 4^
Yoshino 3 27 H
Uenohara 1 27 4^
Notajiri 1 19 3f
Saruhashi 3 6 7f
Ozuki 1 2 2i
Kuronota 2 29 6f
Katsunuma 3 15 8^
KOFU 4 2 10
Total 23 10 56|
The whole ground may be covered
in 2 days, by taking jinrikishas from
Hachioji to Kofu, and sleeping the
first night at Saruhashi. Carriages
of the usual springless kind run the
whole way. The scenery is pretty all
along the route after passing Ko-
magino, but the road is often heavy
away from the vicinity of the
larger villages. Those wishing to
break the journey before reaching
Saruhashi, will find good accom-
modation at Yoshino. From
Hachioji (Inn, Kado-ya),the road
lies along the flat to Komagino, after
passing which vill. a gradual rise
leads up the Kobotoke-toge. The
new Jiighway, avoiding as it does
the summit of the pass (1,850 ft.),
misses the extensive view over the
plain of Tokyo and the sea, for
which this portion of the journey
was formerly noted; but on the
way down on the other side, there
124
Route 10, — Ways to ami from Kd/u,
is a fine prospect of the Koshu
mountains. Soon the traveller
comes in sight of the fertile valley
of the Banyugawa, also called Ka-
tsura-gawa, which flows at the bot-
tom of a deep ravine and becomes
the constant companion of the
journey as far as Ozuki. Some poor
hamlets are passed before reaching
Yoshino (Inn by Ofusa Seijuro).
In the neighbourhood of
Ueiiohiira [Inn, Uehara), a great
deal of refuse silk is spun and
woven into the fabric called tsumugi,
to be taken to market at Hachi-
dji. The town, lying on a plateau,
has no wells. AH the water has
to be brought from a distance in
wooden pipes, and is consequently
foul. From XJenohara, the road
plunges down to the bed of the
Tsurukawa, a tributary of the
Banyii, and then again ascends
and descends before arriving at
Notajiri. Delightful glimpses of
Fuji are obtained on the way. The
scenery becomes strikingly pretty
before reaching.
Sarnhashi {Inns, Daikoku-ya,
Kubota), that is, the 'Monkey's
Bridge/ also called Enkyo, the
latter name being indeed but
the Chinese, pronunciation of the
same ideographs which in pure
Japanese read Saruhashi. Perpen-
dicular cliffs frown down upon the
dark emerald stream, which is
narrow and deep at this point.
The place derives its name from
the bridge having formerly been a
mere cranky plank, such as monkeys
alone might be supposed able to
venture across. The present bridge
is more or less of the cantilever sort,
having the ends of the horizontal
beams planted deep in the soil
that covers the rock. Saruhashi,
though but an unpretending place,
has a certain importance as a
market-town for the surrounding
villages, and possesses a telegraph
station. Specimens of the tsmn/iigi
above-mentioned may be purchased
here at cheap rates.
The scenery continues to be
lovely aft«r passing SaruhashL
There is a celebrated view at a
point. where the Katsura-gawa is
joined by its affluent the Wata-
gawa between Saruhashi and
Komahashi.
Ozuki is badly situated, as a
hill rising behind it shuts out the
sunlight and the view of Fuji;
moreover the accommodation is
wretched.
[A road to Toshida, from whvDh.
place Fuji may be ascended,
branches off here to the 1.,
following up the valley of the
Katsura-gawa, and passing
through the cleanly and thri-
ving town of Tain lira (Inn,
Susuki-tei). At Toka-ichiba
there is a fine cascade, which
is seen to best advantage from
the verandah of the little tea-
house ^lose by. The distance
from Ozuki to Kanii-Yoahida
(Inn, Kogiku), is just under 6
ri. The whole road is, in a
manner, dominated by Fuji,
beginning near Ozuki where
the great volcano appears en
vignette, and then grows and
grows till it fills up the entire
foreground. It is also curious
to observe the gradual conver-
sion of the lava into arable
soil, partly by weathering, and
partly by the labour of the
peasantry].
At Ozuki the road abandons the
Katsura-gawa, and proceeds up
the valley of the Hanasaki-gawa
through villages devoted to the
breeding of si&worms. The diver-
sified forms of the mountains lend
a strange charm to the scene.
After passing
Kuronota (Inn, Miyoshi-ya), one
ascends the Sasago-toge, 3,500 ft.
above the sea, or 1,300 ft. above
Kuronota.
Katsunama is one of the cen-
tres of the grape-growing industry.
The plain of Koshu now lies
Valley of the Tamagaim,
125
before the traveller, surrounded
on every side by a wall of high
mountains. The chief summits to
the W. are Koma-ga-take, Ho-o-zan,
Jizo-dake, Kwannon, and Yakushi,
backed by the long chain collec-
tively known under the name of
Shirane-san. Fuji also is visible
noTv and then over the tops of the
range bounding the plain on the
S. From the vill. of Todoroki to
Sbimo Kuribara, the road is lined
witb peach-trees, double cherry
trees and Kaido (Pyrus spectdbilis),
which are in full blossom about the
middle of April. The road runs
along a fertile plain from this
point to Kofu.
3. — Tokyo TO Koftj by the Valley
OF THE TaMAQAWA (OmE KaIDO).
Itinerary.
TOKYO (Shinjiku Station) to :—
Tachikawa by train 1 hr., thence
by road to :
Ri. CJio. M.
Hamura 3 18 8i
OME f 1 18 3f
Sawai 2 18 6i
Kotaba 1 18 3f
Hikawa 2 — 5
Kochi-no-yu (Yuba).... 3 — 7i
Kamozawa 2 — 5
Tabayama 2 18 6f
Ochiai ". 3 18 8i
Yanagizawa-toge (top) 1 — 2i
Kamikane 1 18 3|
Ofuji — 18 U
Kusakabe 1 18 3f
Hirashina 1 — 2^
Satogaki 2-^6
KOFU 1 — 2i
Total 30 18 76i
This extremely pretty route,
passing through some of the finest
scenery within easy reach of the
capital, is much to be recommended
at all seasons, and particularly in
spring when the trees are in flower.
Kofu can be easily reached in 3i
days. Jinrikishas are practicable
from Tachikawa to Ome j but the
road across the plain is always
rough, and it is better to walk.
Jinrikishas can, indeed, be taken
on to Sawai, where the first night
should be spent; the rest of the
journey till within 3 ri of Kofu
must be performed on foot. Fair
accommodation is also to be had
at Kochi-no-yu, Tabayama, and
Ofuji, but the food is everywhere
very poor.
Leaving Tachikawa and passing
through several hamlets we reach
in 1 hr. the squalid-looking town
of Haijima, a short distance beyond
the Treaty Limit boundary. From
the point where the road joins the
Tamagawa aqueduct to the vill.
of Hamura, the surface is harder
and travelling somewhat easier. At
Ham lira (Inn, Tamaru-ya) we
enjoy a charming glimpse of the
Tamagawa, and can inspect the
massive stone-work of the dam
which is formed here to carry off
the water to supply Tokyo. The
road hence to Ome follows the 1.
bank of the river, a heavy portion
of the route in bad weather. At
Ome, the Ome Kaido, or main road
to Tokyo is first reached. It is
now little used for through traffic.
Ome (Inn by Sakanoe Rinzo) con-
sists of a single long street, lined
with old gnarled fruit-trees, maples,
crape myrtle, and pine, which give
it a picturesque and pleasant ap-
pearance. On the r., soon after en-
tering the town, at the top of a
flight of steps, stands a Shinto tem-
ple decorated with good carvings,
chiefly of birds and fabulous ani-
mals. On leaving Ome the road at
once enters the valley of the Tama-
gawa, ascending along its 1. bank.
The valley is rather wide here and
well-cultivated. Shortly after pass-
ing 1. the path which leads over the
mannen-bashi to the sacred moun-
tain of Mitake, the traveller may
spend a few moments in watching
the rafts shoot past the rocks in
126
Eoiite 10. — Ways to and from Kofu.
the river. Passing through the
l>each orchards of Mitamiira, the
bridge at the entrance of Sawai is
crossed, and here a path branches
off r., leading by way of Hanno to
Chichibu and the province of Shin-
bhu. At
Sii^'aii {Inn, Yamaguchi-ya), the
beautiful part of the route com-
mences. Just before reaching Ko-
taba, the valley begins to contract
and wind, while the hills on either
side increase in height, and in
front is seen the triple summit of
Mitake.
[Mitake, 2,900 ft. above the sea,
is an agreeable resort during
the summer months, on ac-
count of its cool temperature.
It may be reached from Ome
either, 1st, by crossing the
river at that place and so at
once gaining the road (practi-
cable for jinrikishas to Hossawa
near the foot oi the mountain)
along the r. bank of the river,
known as the Onie Hika^e
K'lido, or Shady Road from
Ome, owing to its lying on
the shadier side of the valley ;
2nd, by crossing to the r. bank
by the mannen-hashi bridge
close to the tea-house at
Hinata Wada. about 1 H
from Ome by the usual road,
which brings the traveller
into the 'Shady Road* at
Shimomura ; or, 3rdly, by
crossing the Takahashi bridge,
some way above the Yamagu-
chi-ya inn at Sawai, direct to
Hossawa. The distance from
Ome to Hossawa may be calcu-
lated at 2 hrs. on foot, and the
ascent of the mountain at H
hr. more. There are no inns
at the summit, but rooms can
bo hired at some of the houses
inhabited by the priests. The
temple stands at the very
summit. On a hill further
to the N., but easily reached
from Mitake, and known as
the Oku-no-In, *is a chapel
dedicated to Yamato-take.
The population of the upper
and lower villages on this
mountain consists of families
of hereditary Shinto priests,
who intermarry almost exclu-
sively among each other.
Mitake may also be ascended
from Itaukaichi on the Aki-
gawa, Sri SO cho from Hachioji,
and 2 ri 21 cho from Ome.
Instead of descending again
to Hossawa, and crossing the
river to Sawai, the pedestrian
may save a couple of hours by
descending to Unasawa, near
the r. bank, about 1 m. below
Hikawa.]
Kotaba (Inn, Naga-ya, poor) is
the highest point from which rafts
descend the river. Further up,
single logs are thrown into the
water and left to float down with
the current. Tlie scenery con-
tinues to be charming; the path
constantly ascends and descends,
sometimes rising to a great eleva-
tion above the stream. Corn,
miUet, and potatoes constitute the
chief crops grown in the valley.
Indigo and tobacco are also raised
in small quantities. Descending
through the remains of a cryp-
tomeria grove, we cross the
Nippara-gawa, an affluent of the
Tamagawa, and after a short climb
reach the village of
Hikawa {Inn, Miyamoto-ya). At
this place, and elsewhere in the
valley, may be observed bevelled
waterwheels, used where the bank
is too high for the ordinary under-
shot wheel. The floats are small
and placed wide apart, and the
axle is inclined at an angle in
order to admit of the wheel
dipping into the stream. The
next stage beyond Hikawa is
extremely picturesque and but
sparsely populated. Below the
path, which winds up and down
the flank of the mountain, the
Valley of the Tamagawa.
127
stream dashes along a rocky chan-
nel, sometimes forming deep, clean
pools ; while above, on either hand,
rise steep lofty hills, mostly
covered with timber, but wherever
tlie exposure is favourable, culti-
vated up to the highest possible
point. Especially noticeable is the
part where the road makes a deep
bend to the r. just before coming
to the baths of
Koebi-no-ju {Inn, * Tsuru-ya
Tvliich has pleasant rooms over-
hanging the river; the inn by Hara-
sliima Koichiro has a private bath,
and the upstairs rooms fronting
W. are comfortable). This place,
1,350 ft. above the sea, is noted
for its tepid sulphur springs, and
is much resorted to by the people
of the neighbouring villages. Half
a mile further we cross a tribu-
tary stream called the Ogawa, to
the village of Kochi, and winding
round to the r., pass in succession
through Mugiyama and Kawano
to the hamlet of Kamozawa at the
boundary between the provinces of
Musashi and Koshu.
Kiimozawa (no inns) is strikingly
situated on the hill-side just above
the road. From a point a short
distance beyond, the scenery is very
fine, and the road, considering the
difficulties that had to be overcome,
and the impossibility of preventing
the effects of weathering on the
easily disintegrated rocks over
which it passes in many places, is a
very creditable piece of engineering.
It winds up the side of a magnificent
wooded gorge for 4 or 5 m., while
the river fiows away down at the
bottom under the shade of de-
ciduous trees. Half-way, perched
on the r. bank of the stream far
beneath the road, lies the quaint-
looking hamlet of Honose. At
last, turning a corner, we come in
view of the spacious upland valley
in which, surrounded by corn-
fields, lie
Tabayama (Inn, Mori-ya-; height
2,000 ft. above the sea) and one or
two other hamlets. Beyond this
the scenery becomes even more
remarkable, and the views of deep
ravines and rocky wooded preci-
pices are amongst the finest to be
seen in Japan. The bridges are
broad and were solidly constructed,
but have not been well maintained,
and unfortunately the amount of
traffic that takes place is not
sufficient to justify any outlay on
their improvement. The most
striking bits are a short way above
Tabayama, where grey fir-clad cliffs
tower up to a height of over 2,000
ft. from the water's edge ; but the
grandest prospect of all is about
1^ m. below Ochiai, where the road
winds round the face of a lofty
precipice which commands a view
up a densely- wooded gorge almost
to its very source. From this
point to
Ochiai, which is a mere cluster
of huts without inns, and for 1 ri
further to the top of the Yanagi-
zawd-toge (4,600 ft.), is a walk of
about 2 hrs. over the only bad
portion of the mountain route, the
soft mud being thick and heavy
even in the finest weather. The
top of the pass affords a fine view
of Fuji, seen over the intervening
range of mountains. Descending
on the Kofu side, the road follows
the bank of the Omogawa, which it
crosses and recrosses, to the vill. of
Kaniikane (poor accommoda-
tion), when for the first time opens
out in fuU view the great range
dividing the provinces of Koshu
and Shinshu. The chief peaks from
r. to 1. are Koma-ga-take, Ho-o-zan,
and Jizo-dake, with the triple peaks
of Shirane-san behind, all rising
beyond a nearer and lesser chain.
The small wooded hill in front is
Enzan, noted for a cold sulphur
spring. From
Ofuji (Inn, Fuji-ya) the main
road descends straight into the
plain of Kofu, crossing the
Omogawa and passing through
Knsakabe with its avenue of pines
128
Route 10, — Ways to and from Kofu,
and flowering trees. It crosses the
Fuefuki-gawa a short distance
further on at Sashide, where
coaches may be engaged to Kofu.
4. — SUZUKAWA ON THE TOKAIDO
Railway to Kofu vid the
Temples op Minobu.
Umerary.
SUZUKAWA to :— Ri. Cho. M,
Omiya (tram) 3 — 7i
Utsubusa 2 — 5
Manzawa 1 26 4^
Nambu 3 — 7i
MINOBU 3 8 7f
Hakii 30 2
Yoka-ichiba 1 33 4f
Kiri-ishi 20 U
Kajikazawa 1 29 4^
K5FU 4 18 11
Total 22 20 55
Time, 2^ to 3 days.
It is possible to take jinrikishas
the whole way ; but at least two men
are needed, and there are numerous
hills to walk up. Very poor accom-
modation except at Omiya, Minobu,
and Kajikazawa.
Between Oniiya (Inn, Wata-ya)
and UtsnbiiRa, we reach the cele-
brated Tsuri-hashi, or 'Hanging
Bridge ' over the Fujikawa, at a
picturesque spot where the river
divides into two branches. This
bridge, which is suspended to pre-
cipitous rocks on either side by
stout ropes of bamboos split and
twisted together, consists of small
bundles of split bamboos some 6
or 7 ft. long, lashed close to-
gether and supporting a single
row of planks laid along the
middle as a pathway. The bridge,
which is divided into two un-
equal spans by timber supports
resting on a lower rock close
to the right bank, is altogether
about 100 ft. long ; its height in the
centre is al>out 26 ft., and at the
bank 35 ft., and the whole struc-
ture shakes and sways considerably,
though there is no real danger.
Attempts are now (1891) being
made to block up the left channel
which flows under the bridge, and
to keep the river altogether on the
r. side of the island. Even if these
efforts are successful and the bridge
falls into disuse, similar structures
may still be seen in the valley of the
Hayakawa and elsewhere. From
Utsubusa onwards, the road leads
up the pleasant valley of the Fuji-
kawa with occasional views of
Fuji, Yatsu-ga-take, and other high
mountains.
Minobn (Inns, Tanaka-ya, Masn-
ya) consists of a single hilly
street lined with shops for the sale
of rosaries. It was also at one
time noted for the manufacture of
hempen rain-coats (mino), a fact
to which the origin of the name
has been ascribed. The village is
charmingly situated in a valley
surrounded by well-wooded moun-
tains, among the most prominent
being Oku-no-In which rises im-
mediately behind the temples, and
Shichimen-zan at the head of the
valley. The vill. owes its ex-
istence to the great Monastery
of Kuenji, founded in the 13th
century by the celebrated Bud-
dhist saint Nichiren, a portion of
whose body is here preserved.
This monastery is the head-quar-
ters of the Nichiren sect, and the
new temples now in process of erec-
tion to replace the former buiMings
destroyed by fire in 1875 are fine
specimens of Buddhistic architec*
ture.
On entering the grounds of the
Monastery, the traveller crosses a
courtyard, whence either of two
fiights of steps — the OtoTco-zaka and
the Onna-zaka — may be ascended to
the actual temples. On reaching the
top of the steps, and passing r. the
• belfry, the traveller will find him-
self in front of the Founder's Tem-
ple (Kaisan-do), from which galle-
Minobu,
129
ries lead to the Temple of the True
Bones (Go 8hinkotsu-dd)y to the
Temple of the Posthumous Tablet
(Ihai-do), to the Pilgrims' Dormi-
tory (Kyahi-den), to the Eecep-
tions Booms {Taimen-zaahiki), and
finally to the residence of the
archbishop and the business offices
of the sect (Jimusho). The interior
dimensions of the main hall of
the Founder's Temple are : length
76 ft., depth 120 ft., height 26 ft.
from floor to ceiling, while the
altar is 24 ft. long by 15 ft. in
depth. The porch has carvings of
dragons, storks, birds playing over
the waves of the sea, and tortoises
swimming through it. The ven-
tilating panels over the grated
doors contain angels and phoenixes
brightly painted. The framework
of the building and the pillars which
support the ceiling are lacquered
red and black, producing a noble
effect. In the centre of the
nave (gejin) hangs a . magnifi-
cent gUt baldachin,_ presented by
the merchants of Osaka. Gilded
pillars mark off the space in front
of the main altar, which is lac-
quered red and decorated with gilt
carvings of lions and peonies. The
two porcelain lanterns about 8 ft.
high, in front of the altar, are from
the famous potteries of Hizen.
The handsomely carved and gilded
shrine contains a good life-size
ef^gj of Nichiren, presented by
the inhabitants of Tokyo. The cof-
fered ceiling of the chancel (nai-
jin) is plainly gilt, while the part
of it immediately over the altar
has gilt dragons, touched up with
red, on a gilt ground. To the
wall behind the altar are affixed
modern 'paintingB of Kakan. The
colours of the square brackets in the
cornices are green, blue, red, and
chocolate, often with an outline in
white or a lighter shade of the
prhicipal colour, and gold arabes-
ques on the flat surfaces. The gem
of lp!inobu, however, is the Temple
of jthe True Bones, where the lover
of Oriental decorative art will find
in contemporary freshness all those
beauties which, in most of the
religious edifices of Japan, have
already been too much tarnished by
the hand of time. A small fee is
charged for admission. The exterior
is unpretentious; but on entering the
oratory, the visitor should observe
the lifelike paintings of cranes on
the ceiling. A plain gallery leads
hence to the sanctum sanctorum,
where Mchiren's remains are en-
shrined. It is a small octagonal
building, elaborately decorated
and all ablaze with colours and
gold. Bound the walls, on a gold
ground, are full-sized representa-
tions of the white lotus-flower, the
emblem of purity and of the Bud-
dhist faith. The horizontal beams
above have coloured diapers and
geometrical patterns, the brilliant
effect of which is toned down by
the black, mixed with gold, of the
rafters. ' Black and gold are like-
wise the colours used in the ceiling,
which is secured by beautifully
worked metal fastenings. In the
ramma are carvings of the Sixteen
Disciples (Ju-roku Bakan), and on
the doors are paintings of musical
instruments. The shrine (koto),
which was presented by the faith-
ful of the province of Owari , is of
gold lacquer and shaped like a two-
storied pagoda. In it rests the
reliquary or casket of gold and
precious stones containing the
bones of Nichiren, which is in the
form of a tiny octagonal pagoda,
standing on a base of jade carved in
the conventional lotus-flower form.
Its framework is of the alloy called
shakvdo, and one of the pillars
bears an inscription in silver dama-
scening, which, among other pdlr-
ticulars, gives a date correspond-
ing to A.D. 1580. The other pillars
are decorated with silver tracery
attached to the surface of the
shakudo. The top is hung with
strings of coral, pearls, and glass
beads. The height of the whole is a
180
Route 10, — Ways to and from Kofu,
little over 2 ft. Above hangs a bal-
dachin presented by the inhabitants
of Nagasaki. The only European
innovation in the place is the intro-
duction of two glass windows, which
permit of a much better examina-
tion of the building than is gene-
rally obtainable in the 'dim re-
ligious light' of Japanese sacred
edifices. The Temple of the Posthu-
mous Tablet is a plain, uninterest-
ing building. Pending the erec-
tion of the new buildings, it has
been temporarily used to hold the
remains of the saint and an image
of him carved by his disciple Nichi-
ro. The archbishop's residence is
a beautiful specimen of Japanese
house-decoration in the old style.
Note the exquisite modem open-
work carvings of cranes and geese,
and the fine paintings in the
alcove (tokonoma) of the Becep-
tion Booms. For a fee of 25 sen, the
priests officiating at the ]^aisan-do
will display the image on the altar
and perform a short service in its
honour. The chief yearly festival
takes place on the 12th and 13th
October, old calendar (some time
in November).
The ascent to Oku-no-In winds
up Ueno-no-yama, the hill imme-
diately behind the Founder's
Temple, and is an easy climb of
50 cho. After passing the small
temple of Sanko-do, the road
ascends through a forest of crypto-
merias, and near the summit com-
mands an extensive view, including
Fuji, part of the Gulf of Suruga,
and the promontory of Izu. On
the top stends a plain little temple
dedicated to Nichiren, whose crest of
the orange-blossom is prominently
marked on various objects within
the enclosure.
A spare day at Minobu may be
devoted to the ascent of Shichi-
men-zan whose summit is not quite
5 ri distant. The best place to
halt on the way is Akasawa, 3 ri
2 cho from Minobu ; but the
traveller must take his own food.
There is a good road all the way
up. The last 50 cho are marked
by stone lanterns numbered from
1 to 50. No. 36 affords the best
view, which includes the full sweep
of Suruga Bay, with the promon-
tory of Izu stretching far out to
sea, a magnificent prospect of
Fuji, the fertile plain of Kofu
intersected by the various streams
uniting to form the Fujikawa, the
valley of the Hayakawa below to
the 1., beyond which are seen
Shirane-san and the Koma-ga-take
of Koshu, while Yatsu-ga-take,
Kimpu-zan, and other distant
ranges bound the prospect on the
N. On the top, which the forest
deprives of all view, stands a plain
building dedicated to the goddess
of the mountain.
According to the legend, as Nichiren
was one day preaching in the open air at
Minobu, a oeautiful woman suddenly
made her appearance, and greatly excited
the curiosity of his auditors. Ou
Nichiren ordering her to assume her
true form, she explained that she dwelt
among the mountains to the west, and
that seated on one of the eight points
of the compass, she dispensed blessing
to the other seven. She then beggred
for water, which was given to ter
in a vase, and at once the beautiful wo-
man was transformed into a snake twenty
feet long, covered with golden scales, and
armed with iron teeth. A terrible blast
swept down from the mountains, and she
disappeared in a whirlwind towards the
point of the compass indicated. The
words * seven points - of - the - compass '
(gkichi-men) also mean ' seven faces ;' and
by an equivoque the popular belief has
arisen that a serpent with seven heads
had appeared to the saint, whom he
deified under the name of Shichiwen
DaimyOjin. Buddhist writers identify
her with Srimahaddva, the ddva of lucky
omen, another name for the Hindoo god
Siva.
Game is plentiful on the
hills surrounding Minobu. Deer
and bears are frequently seen, and
pheasants are abundant. Shoot-
ing, however, is strictly prohibited,
as contrary to the tenets of the
Buddhist faith. Departing from
Minobu and passing through
Hakii, the place where travellers
coming down the Fujikawa en ra/vM
Valley of the Hayakawa,
181
to Minobu leave the boat, we reach
Futui, between which vill. and
Itomi the Hayakawa is crossed.
[For a description of the extreme-
ly picturesque valley of this
river, see No. 5 of this route.]
The current is so swift at the
ferry that the boat has to be
fastened to either bank by a rope.
The crossing is effected by the help
of a pole, and by quickly hauling
on one end of the rope as the other
is slackened. The scenery at this
point is remarkably fine. A mass
of rock, inclined at an acute angle
on the 1. bank of the Fujikawa,
just opposite the confluence of the
Hayakawa, is worth noticing.
From Itomi onwards, the road
generally follows the bank of the
river to Yoka-ichiba {Inn, Wakao-
ya) and Kiri-ishi (Inn, Matsuzaka-
ya), then descending to the vill. of
Nishijima, where the river makes a
wide bend to the r. Beyond
Kajikii-zawa (Inn Ueda-ya), the
road enters the plain of Kofu, with
its amphitheatre of mountains,
whose various summits are seen
from numerous other points; but
the best general view of them is
enjoyed while crossing the bed of
the Fujikawa, here called the Kama-
nashi-gawa, beyond Anabara. The
imposing mass to the 1. is Yatsu-
ga-take, rising between Kane-ga-
take to the r. and Koma-ga-take
' to its 1. The high mountain to the
1. of the latter, distinguished by a
pile of rocks on its summit, is Ho-
d-zan, to whose 1. is seen in succes-
sion the great range of Shirane.
The high mountain to the r. of
Kane-ga-take is Kimpu-zan. Fuji's
cone alone is visible above the
intervening range. Shichimen-zan
is seen on looking back down the
valley. The 44 ri separating Kaji-
ka-zawa from Kofu can be done by
carriage in about 3 hrs.
6. — From Itomi to Kofu by the
Valley of the Hayakawa.
Ascent of Shibane-san, Ho-6-
ZAN, AND KaIQANE-SAN.
Itinerary,
ITOMI to :— Bi. Cho. M.
Koretsubo 3 — 7i
Kyo-ga-shima 2 16 5
Hayakawa - 34 2^
ShimoYujima ... 3 18 Sh
Narada 2 — 5
Ashikura 5 — 12|^
Arino 2 — 5
Dodo 15 1
Midai 10 f
KOFU 2—5
Total...
> • • ^^ • • • •
21 21
52-»
It
This trip is a very rough one ;
for though so close to civilisation,
the country through which it leads
the traveller lies in the heart of
the great mountain mass dividing
Koshii from Shinshu and Suruga,
and both the people and the roads
are in much the same state as they
were in earlier centuries before
railways were known or foreigners
heard of. The journey can only
be accomplished on foot, and one
should travel as lightly as possible,
for all baggage has to be carried
by coolies, who are often difficult
to obtain. The traveller will meet
with no regular inns ; but the of-
ficials and headmen of the various
hamlets are very civil, and ready
to provide the best accommodation
their places afford. It is possible
to combine with this trip the as-
cent of the Koshu Shirane-san and
other lofty peaks. From Itomi the
road ascends the bank of the Haya-
kawa through wild and picturesque
scenery to the hamlet of
Koretsubo, beyond which a steep
climb of 18 cho leads to Gokamura.
A short way beyond this the path
descends to a pretty valley near the
hamlet of Shio-no-ue, where the
scenery is particularly striking. To
182
Route 10, — Ways to and from Ko/u,
the 1. rises Shichimen-zan, thickly
wooded and seen to much better ad-
vantage here than from Minobu.
Eight opposite is the bold round
summit of Amebata-yama^ also
called Zaru-ga-dake, through the
deep ravine to the 1. of which flows
the Amebata-gawa. Below is seen
the Hayakawa windinor down the
valley on the r., and forming ahnost
a complete circle as" it bends round
a low wooded promontory, which
from this point has the appearance
of an island. The path now des-
cends over a rough watercourse to
the bed of the river, and ascends
its 1. bank to
Kyo-ga-shima. Eight cJio further
on it crosses the stream on a tsuri-
hashi, or 'hanging bridge,' to the
hamlet of Ho, in the neighbour-
hood of which a gold mine is
worked.
For a description of the tniri-ba$hi, or
* hanging brioge,' of the mountain dis-
tricts of Eastern and Central Japan, see
p. 128. Another primitive kind or bridge,
called mannen-baski, has sometimes to be
crossed on this route It consists of a
long piece of timber, which is simply tied
at the end to projecting supports, such as
ure used in the hanging bridge. The
span is not so great as that of the tmri-
ba$hi; but the narrowness of the roadway,
and the imperfect manner in which the
projecting beams are supported, give the
traveller a most uncomfortable feeling of
insecurity. The Japanese name is a
hyperbole signifying * Bridge of a Myriad
Years.*
Beyond Ho, the path leads over
one of the lower spurs of Daikoku-
yama, and follows the steep side of
the vaUey high above the stream.
After passing the hamlet of Nishi-
no-miya, the traveller recrosses the
river to
Hayakawa, where he will find
comfortable quarters at the house
of the Boncho (Mayor) of Misato, the
' three villages ' of which this place
is one. Gold is said to be found in the
neighbourhood, while plantations of
the paper-tree (Edgeworthia) and of
tobacco line this part of the valley.
Higher up, beyond the hamlet of
Arakawa, the scenery is charming.
The river dashes along through a
fine rocky glen, and is spanned by
one of the mannen-hashi at a
highly picturesque spot. After
crossing the bridge, the road
divides. The route to Narada
turns to the r., and ascends a very
steep hill for about 1 ri, winds
round its upper slope, and descends
again to the river through wild
and rugged scenery before reaching
the hamlet of
Shimo Tnjima. Beyond this
place, the path crosses and recrosses
the river on mannen-hashi. About
40 cho on, and a little way up the
ravine to the r., is the hot spring
of Kami Tnjima (poor accommo-
dation).
Nariida (accommodation at a
Buddhist temple), the last in-
habited place in the valley, consists
of but a few households. All
the inhabitants bear the same sur-
name, and seldom intermarry with
the people of other villages. They
are a primitive folk of a peculiar
type of countenance, who wear in
summer a loose hempen dress, and
deer and bear-skins in the winter.
Their dialect is peculiar, and
abounds in archaic words and ob-
solete grammatical forms. Owing
to their practical isolation from
the outer world, their ignorance
and want of education are extreme,
and they are content to live in dirt
and squalor. Bice, sake, and soy
are with them luxuries to be in-
dulged in on rare occasions, their
ordinary food consisting only of
millet and potatoes. Narada boasts
of 'Seven Wonders' (Nana JV
shigi), amongst which are en-
umerated a brackish pool, the
waters of which are said to have
the property of dyeing black any
article of clothing left to steep in
them for forty-eight hours, and a
reed whose leaves grow only on one
side of the stem.
[More interesting to the deter-
mined pedestrian than these
Ascent of Shimne-mn,
133
village wonders will be the
ascent of Shirane-!4an, which
may be taken on the way to
Ashikura, instead of proceeding
to the latter place by the usual
path according to the itinerary.
The name Shirane-san is often used
to denote tlie whole mighty range
dividing the province of Kpsha from
the head-waters of* the Oigawa, a
range second only in orographical
importanee to that of Etcha and
Hida, which forms the subject of
Route 34. The name is, however,
more properly confined to the
northern and most elevated portion,
consisting of three peaks, viz. NOdori
on the S., Ai-no-take in the centre,
and Kaigane on the N. There exists
a somewhat amusing rivalry be-
tween the inhabitants of Narada
from which the first two peaks are
ascended, and those of Ashikura,.
the nearest point to the third, the
one vill. maintaining that Ai-no-take
is the highest of the three and the
true Shirane, while the other claims
the same honours for Kaigane. The
traveller looking at the range from
the summit of HO-O-zan, or from any
other mountain top commanding a
view of the two peaks, will adjudge
the Ashikura people to be in the
right about the question of altitude.
There is no regularly marked
path from Narada to the top
of the range; but guides
can there be procured who
know the way up, and will
carry whatever is necessary
in the way of provisions and
bedding. The traveller who
proposes to ascend all three
peaks must be prepared to
sleep out three nights, and,
taking Nodori-san first, to cross
on the fourth day from the
base of Kaigane to Ashikura.
Nodori-san and Ai-no-take
involve sleeping out two
nights and descending on the
third day — likewise to Ashi-
kura. There is a hut at the
E. base of Kaigane^ but none
on the top of the range. Ai-
no-take cannot be ascended
direct from Narada; Nodori
must first be climbed, and
the track then followed along
the ridge to the former peak.
From Narada there is a
choice of ways up Shirane, one
leading along a ravine above
the viU. called Hiro-Kochi, the
other up the Shira-Kochi a
short way below it. To the top
of the ridge is a stiff climb of
9 hrs., frequent rests being
needed by the guides who
carry the burdens. The height
is 8,400 ft. above the sea, or
5,900 above Narada, and snow
often lies there as late as July.
Once on the ridge, the rest of
the ascent is easy. In 2 hrs.
the first peak is reached, height
8,830 ft. The view includes
W.S.W., the round top of Ena-
san in Mino; N.W. by W.,
Ontake ; and in front of the
highest peak of a long ridge,
the Koma-ga-take of Shinshu.
Norikura bears N.W., and
Yari-ga-take N.W. by N. In
the far distance N.E. the top
of the Nikko Shirane can just
be descried, and the Chichibu
mountains are well seen, in
the same direction. Ho-6-zan
is nearly N.N.E.; then come
Jizo-ga-take, and Kwannon
and Yakushi close together.
Fuji, the basin of the Fuji-
kawa, and the Kofu plain are
distinctly seen.
Half an hour more brings us
to the top of N6d<»ri, 9,300 ft.,
which commands much the
same view as the previous
summit, with the addition of
Ai-no-take and Kaigane, the
latter of which now comes in
sight for the first time.
I)rom the summit of Nodori-
san to that of Ai-no-take (9,850
ft.), takes 2 hrs. The top is bare
rock ; but at a short distance
below, every sheltered nook
contains a patch of grass, gay
with the flowers that inhabit
the higher altitudes. Ten
min. below the summit on the
E. side is a capital camping-
place. ' The view from the high-
134
Boute 10, — Ways to and from Kd/u.
est point includes, besides the
mountains already seen from
Nodori-san, the following : —
Koma-ga-take a little to the
E. of N., Kaigane N. N.E.,
Yatsu-ga-take just on the E.
of Kai-gane ; Kimpu-zan N.E.
by E., and Senjo-ga-take, a
much lower mountain on the
1. of the Norokawa, N.W.
The source of this stream is
perceived far down on the
N.W. flank of Ai-no-take. To-
wards the S., and beyond
Nodori-san, a long range of
mountains is seen stretching
down the frontier of Koshu,
and getting gradually lower
as it approaches Minobu. Fuji
rises between S.E. and E.S.E.,
while Ho-6-zan and Jiz6-ga-
take on the one side, and
Ontake, Norikura, and Yari-
ga-take stand up perfectly
clear on the other. The de-
scent from Ai-no-take to Ashi-
kura is fatiguing as far as a
stream some 4,200 ft. above
the sea level.- This stream is
the Arakawa, one of the
sources of the Hayakawa. If
the day is too far spent to
allow of Ashikura being
reached before nightfall, one
may sleep at some wood-
cutters' huts 1^ hr. before
getting to that village.]
The ordinary path from Narada
to Ashikura winds up and down a
succession of forest-slopes, whose
thick foliage almost entirely shuts
out all view. Now and then, how-
ever, glimpses are caught, of Shi-
rane-san and of the valleys of the
Arakawa andNorokawa. Further
on the path divides, — ^r. to Kof u vi&
Hirabayashi, 1. to Kofu vi4 Ashi-
kura. The latter is not practicable
during heavy rains; but the travel-
ler is recommended to take it when
it can be traversed, on account
of its wild and beautiful scenery.
A portion of the way lies down a
precipitous rocky ravine known as
the Ide-zawa, where the gorge in
many places is so narrow that its
perpendicular sides seem almost to
meet overhead. The path descends
by the side of a torrent, crossing
and recrossing the stream on
trunks of trees, and being occa-
sionally carried over clefts and
landslips on bridges of very primi-
tive structure.
Ashikura, which stands on the L
bank of the Midai-gawa, consists
of four hamlets named Katsuzawa
(the highest up the valley), Ozori,
Kozori, and Furu-yashiki lower
down. Travellers who intend to
make the ascent of Ho-o-zan should
stay at Kozori. There is also fair
accommodation at Puru-yashiki.
From Ashikura into Kofu is a
walk of 6 ri.
[The ascent of H5-o-zan and that
of Kaigane are best made from
Ashikura. The walk up Ho-o-
zaii, though under 6 ri, will
occupy a good pedestrian about
9 hrs., and the descent 5 hrs.,
including stoppages. Though
it is possible, by making an
early start, to complete the
ascent and descent in one day,
it is not usual for pilgrims to
do so, and they generally, on
the downward journey, halt
for the night at the wood-
cutters' sheds at Omuro, li ri
below the summit. The ac-
commodation being rough,
provisions and bedding should
be taken. Those who wish to
enjoy the morning view from
the summit should either make
a late start from Kozori and
spend the night at Omuro,
ascending next morning at
daybreak, or start early and
bivouac at the hollow between
the summits of Jizo and Ho-
o-zan. In the latter case it
will be necessary to take uten-
sils for carrying up water, as
none can be got beyond Omuro.
Shirane-san, Rapids of the Fujikawa,
185
The ascent commences beyond
the hamlet of Kutsuzawa, 12
cho from Kozori. The view
from Suna-harai, a rocky peak
over which the path leads,
includes in front Senjo-ga-
take, over whose r. flank is
seen the outline of Koma-ga-
take in Shinshu; on the 1.,
the ridge slopes down to the
valley of the Norokawa, on
the opposite side of which
rises the sharp summit of
Kaigane-san; lower down the
valley is the bold massy form
of .Ai-no-take, while in the
further distance are seen the
high mountains on the nor-
thern boundary of Suruga. To
the r. the summits of Yakushi-
dake and Kwannon-dake shut
out the more distant prospect.
The view on looking back in -
eludes Fuji, the Kofu plain,
and surrounding mountains.
Beyond this point are two
other peaks — Yakushi-dake not
usually ascended by pilgrims,
and Kwannon-dake which they
do generally visit, and whence
there is a fine view of the
ravine through which the
Norokawa flows. The highest
point — Ho-o-zan properly so-
called — is still further on, and
may be scaled as far as the
ledge which supports the two
enormous blocks or pillars of
granite that form the actual
summit. The view closely re-
sembles that from Koma-ga-
take described on p. 186.
The way up Kaigane-san
diverges 1. from that up Ho-o-
zan. From Kozori to a small
temple where one may halt for
the night will occupy one day's
climbing, whilst the remainder
of the ascent is said to take 6
hrs. If it be not intended to
visit the other summits of the
range after ascending Kaigane-
san, the usual plan is to
descend to the temple and
spend the second night there,
returning to Ashikura on the
following day. But should
the traveller wish to complete
the round by ascending Ai-no-
take and N5dori-san, it will be
necessary to sleep out one
night before descending either
to Narada or to this temple.
We trust that the rough
nature of the entire trip has
been made sufficiently mani-
fest, and that none but sturdy
climbers will embark on it.]
6. — Fbom Kofu to Iwabtjchi on
THE TOKAIDO BY THE BaPIDS OF
THE Fujikawa.
•
Eoughly speaking, this is No. 4
reversed, but done partly by boat
instead of wholly by road. Time
1 day ; 2 days, if the journey be
broken at Minobu, for which alight
at Hakii. The waJk from the river
to the vill. of Minobu occupies 40
min. A carriage must be taken for
the first stage (4^ ri) from Kofu to
Kajikazawa, where a boat can be
engaged to Iwabuchi (in 1891,
the price was ^i for boat with 4
men, weather being favourable).
There is considerable traffic on
the Fujikawa, no less than 600
boats being engaged in it. When
the river is in its ordinary state,
the times taken are as follows :
Kajikazawa to: — hbs,
Hakii ; 2i
Nambu 1
Iwabuchi 3
Total [ 6i
As far as the confluence of the
Hayakawa the river flows placidly
along, now at the base of bare
rocky hills, now past villages and
rice-fields. Below this point begins
a series of races and small rapids,
the most remarkable of which is
just above the Hanging Bridge
where the current whirls along
at a dizzy pace. On nearing
186
TiOvt£ 10, — W(fys to and from Kofu,
Matsuno, some fine g^roups of hexa-
ofonal andesite columns will be
noticed on the r. bank. At
Iwabiiclii {Inn, Tani-ya), the boats
are taken along the canal to the
landing-place close by the railway
station.
7. — From Kofu to Shimo-no-Suwa
ON THE NaKASENDO.
_ Itinerary.
KOFU to :— Ri. Chv. M.
Nirasaki 3 5 7f
Enno 2 — 5
DAI-GA-HARA ..-2 9 5^
Kyoraishi ;. 1 16 3^
Tsutaki ,. 1 6 2f
Kanazawa 3 8 7f
Kami-no-suwa ... 3 19 8^
SHIMO-NO-SUWA 1 4 2f
Total 17 31 43i
This road is a continuation of
the Koshii Kaido, the first section
of which, from Tokyo to Kofu, has
been described on p. 123. It is prac-
ticable for carriages and jinrikishas
the whole way.
Leaving Kotu and crossing the
Shiogawa, an affluent of the Fuji-
kawa, we reach
Nirasaki {Inn, Yashima-ya) and
Eniio, also called TsvJbarai or
Marwno.
[From Enno the ascent of H6-o
zan can be made. The dis-
tance to the top of the gap be-
tween Jizo-dake and H6-o-zan
is called 5 ri. The path crosses
the spur to the 1. of the vilL,
and descends to the bed of the
Komukawa, which is followed
up until the actual ascent of
2\ri commences.]
From a grove of trees just be-
yond Tsubarai, there is a magni-
ficent view of Koma-ga-take, the
whole sweep to the sharp summit
of the precipitous rocky mass being
seen to perfect advantage. The
road now ascends the valley
of the Kamanashi-gawa. The
greater part of it as far as Dai-
ga-hara is built up on the stony
beds of various streams. The
scenery of the valley is very pretty,
and in many places quite striking.
The r. side is lined with peculiar
castellated cliffs of brown con-
glomerate, while to the 1. rises the
high range of which Koma-ga-taJfe
is the principal feature. Further
on, Yatsu-ga-take appears to the r.,
and on looking back beautiful and
varied views of Fuji are to be seen.
[One ri before reaching Dai-ga-
hara, a path 1. leads to the
base of Jizo-dake (5 ri 28 cho),
whence the mountain can be
ascended.]
We next reach Dai-ga-hara (Inn,
Maru-ya), whence the ascent of the
Koshii Koma-ga-take can best be
made.
[The ascent is so precipitous and
difficult in parts, and so long —
nominally 7 n to the summit —
as to necessitate sleeping one
night at the Omuro or Uma-
dome huts on the mountain
side. Water should be taken
up, 'as none can be procured
except at these huts. The
summit consists of two peaks,
on one of which stands a
, bronze figure of the Shinto
god Onamuji. On the second
and higher peak, called Oku-
no-in, is a small image of
the Buddhist god Marishiten.
The summit commands a mag-
nificent view on every side.
Looking S. the eye sweeps
over the valleys of the Noro-
kawa and Tashiro-gawa, to the
1. of which rises the long range
of Shirane, the most con-
spicuous summits being the
snow-streaked peak of Kaigane-
san which stands in close
proximity, and beyond, the
bold mass of Ai-no-take, the
central portion of the range.
Beneath is the ravine through
Kofu to Shimo-no-Suiva and to Yoshida.
137
which the Norokawa flows as
it winds round the base of
Kaigane-san ; the mountain to
the r. is Senj6-ga-take. Be-
yond Shirane several high
mountains are visible, and are
probably those which stand on
the N. boundary of Suruga.
Towards the E. the valley of
the Fujikawa is seen between
the near summit of Ho-o-zan
and the E. slope of Kaigane,
and in the far distance can be
distinguished the promontory
of Izu and the sea. The most
striking feature of the view is
Fuji, to whose 1. a wide plain
stretches far away to the E.
Towards the N. and W. the
following mountains are seen in
succession : — a portion of the
Chichibu range, Kimpu-zan,
Yatsu-ga-take, Asama-yama,
the lofty mountains on the
borders of Etchii and Hida,
Ontake, the Koma-ga-take of
Shinshu, and Ena-San in Mino,
while the nearer view includes
the plain of Kofu, the valley of
the Kamanashi-gawa, Tate-
shina-yama, the mountains
about the Wada pass. Lake
Suwa, and the valley of the
Tenryu-gawa].
Beyond Dai-ga-hara the road is
lined on one side with fine red
pine-trees, which shut out the
view of the river as far as
Kyoraishi {Inn, Izumi-ya). At
the boundary of the provinces of
Koshu and Shinshu, the road cross-
es to the 1. bank of the Kamana-
shi-gawa, and passing through the
insignificant vUl. of Shimo Tsutaki,
reaches _
Kami Tsutaki (Inn, Osaka-ya),
after which the road becomes hilly.
The highest point is reached at
3,070 ft. above the sea, being
1,050 ft. above Dai-ga-hara. Thence
it descends to
Kftnazawa (Inn, Matsuzaka-ya),
and down the valley of the Miya-
gawa, where the waters of Lake
Suwa soon come in view. At
Chugo, where the road crosses a
stream, and from several points
further on, there is a fine view of
the mountains on the borders of
Hida, the most conspicuous sum-
mits being Iwasu-ga-take and Yari-
ga-take. The lofiff mountain in
the distance to the 1. of the lake i&
Nishi Koma-ga-take.
Kami-no-8iiwa (Inn, Botan-ya)
is a busy town on the borders of
the lake. About 2 ri distant is
the Ichi no Miya, or chief Shinto
temple of the province of Shinshu,
which contains some excellent
wood carvings. The annual fes-
tival is held on the 1st August. The
road now skirts the slopes on
the N. shore of the lake, and
passing through the hamlets of
Cwa and Takaki, reaches Shimo-no-
Suwa (see Route 39).
8. — From Kofu oveb the Mi-
saka-toge to yoshida at the
BASE OF Fuji, and 70 Gotemba
ON THE TOKAIDO EaILWAY.
Itinerary.
KOFU to :— Bi. Cho. M,
Izawa 1 23 4
Kami Kurogoma. 1 31 4^
Tonoki 1 18 3|
Kawaguchi 2 30 6f
YOSHIDA 2 3 5i
Yamanaka 4 8 10^
Subashiri 2 — 5
GOTEMBA 2 30 7
Total 18 35 464r
Time required, 2 days, stopping
at Yoshida the first night. Yoko.-
hama may easily be reached on the
evening of the second day by train
from Gotemba. Jinrikishas with
two men are practicable the whole
way, when the roads are in a good
state.
The road follows the Koshii Kai-
do as far as Iznwa (Inn, Shishi-
moto), where it turns off to the r..
138
RoiUe 10. — Ways to and from Kofu,
and soon enters a narrow valley.
From Kami Knrogroma, it rises
rapidly to
Tonoki {Inn, 6akai-ya), 3,200 ft.
above the sea. It then ascends for
about 1 hr. through a forest to the
hut on the summit of the Misaka-
toge, which is .5^20 ft. above the
sea. The view of Fuji from this
point, as it rises from Lake Kawa-
guchij is justly celebrated. Below
is the vill. of Kawaguchi ; on the
opposite side of the lake are Fu-
natsu and Kodachi. Further S. is
Lake Yamanaka. The view look-
ing back towards the N. and W.
includes Kimpu-zan, Tatsu-ga-take,
Koma-ga-take, Jizo-dake, and in
the plain below, the vill. of Izawa.
It is an hour's descent to
Kawagiichj {Inn, Nakamura), a
poor vill. lying a couple of hundred
yards from the lake. Boats can be
procured from here to Funatsu,
making an agreeable change in the
day's work ; or else one may follow
the road skirting the lake through
the hamlet of Akasawa for about
f hr., with steep mountains on every
side. Funatsu produces white and
coloured tswmugi, a coarse fabric
woven from spun floss silk. From
Funatsu to Yoshida, and indeed
all the way on to Subashiri and
Gotemba, the road traverses the
moor that forms the base of Fuji.
9. — Feom Kabuizawa on the Na-
kasendo to kofu by the tsutu-
TABE Pass.
Itinerary,
KARUIZ AWA to :— Et. Chd. M.
Iwamurata 4 33 12
Usuda 2 6 5i
. Takano-machi ... 1 7 3
Hata 1 20 3f
Umijiri 3 10 8
Itabashi 2 10 6i
Nagasawa 4 4 10
Nirasaki 4 32 12
KOFU 3 18 8i
Total 27 31 68
This route is recommended to
those whose chief object is moun-
tain climbing. Exclusive of such.
climbing, the journey takes 2 days,
jinrikishas being available for tlie
first part between Iwamurata and.
UsudJEk, and carriages from l^irasalad
to Kofu. The rest must be done
on foot. There is accommodation
of the usual country sort at th.e
places mentioned in the itinerary.
Hata is the best place from
which to ascend Tateshina-yama.
This expedition requires the whole
of a long day, but is worth the
trouble, on account of the extensive
view which the peak commands.
^rom Umijiri, at the end of the
Iwasake gorge, one may visit the
sulphur springs of Inaga (21 chd),
and thence go up to the Honzawa
baths (3 ri), situated at a height of
3,200 ft. above Umijiri. The sum-
mit of the Honzawa pass, some
40 min. walk beyond the Honzawa
baths, is 7,400 ft. above the sea.
From this point a path leads to the
summit of Mikahwi-yama, 8,450 ft.
above the sea. The whole expedition
will occupy a day.
Itabashi is the best starting-
point for the ascent of Akaddke,
but there is no path. Two ri
from Itabashi across the moor is
a wood-cutter's hut at the base of
the spur where the ascent begins,
and it is advisable to sleep here in
order to make an early stiurt in the
morning. The hut is about 5,300 ft.
above the sea, which leaves 3,600
ft. to be still ascended, the summit
having an altitude of 8,990 ft., and
the climb up it being very steep in
parts. The. view includes Asama-
yama, Kimpu-zan, Fuji, and all the
mountains on the W. boundary of
Koshu. Guides cannot always be
procured at Itabashi. In this case it
will be necessary to proceed to
Hirasawa, half-way between Ita-
bashi and Nagasawa, where they
can always be had.
From Nagasawa it is an easy
climb up Qongen-dakQ, the most
Route 11, — Kumagai to Omiya*
189
sontherly of the nmnerons peaJis
known under the collective name
of ITatsu-ga-take. It is not
usual, however, with the Japanese
to make the ascent until after
the autumn equinox, and the
traveller may, therefore, experience
a little difficulty in obtaining
guides. In this, as in the previous
case, he will do best to make Hira-
sawa his starting-point. The ascent
takes about 5 hrs., the descent to
Nag^asawa 3 hrs., that to Hirasawa
4 h.rs. The view includes the whole
of the Hida-Shinshu range, amongst
wb.ich Yari-ga-take is conspicuous
to the N.W., Fuji is seen towering
aloft S. by E., the Koshu Koma-ga-
take S.W. by S., Shirane a little to
its S., Ho-o-zan S.S.W., distin-
guished by the monumental pile of
rocks at its summit, and KLmpu-
zan S.E. by E.
EOUTE 11.
EUMAGAI TO OmIYA IN ChICHIBU^
Cave-Templb of Kwannon nbab
Kaoemobi.
For those desirous of cross-country
walks, a suitable opportunity is
afforded at Kumagai of striking off
to Omiya, the chief town in the
district of Chiohibu, which will be
found a convenient centre for sut^h
excursions. Near it is also a cave-
temple of Kwannon, possessing some
celebrity and well-worth a visit. The
road is practicable for jinrikishas.
KUMAGAI to:— Ri.Cho. M.
Tanaka 8 18 8^
Yorii 1 18 3|
Nogami 8 14 8|
Onobara 8 — • 7?
Omiya i __ aj
Total 12 U 30^
The road branches off to the 1.
just beyond Kumagai, and traverses
a rich rice-plain until more elevated
ground with mulberry plantations
is reached. Good views of the Chi-
chibu mountains are obtained on
the way. The Arakawa, flowing
down a wild and stony bed, is joined
10 cho before coming to
Yoril, a busy vill. carrying on
a large trade in silk, the chief in-
dustry of the people all along this
route. The road now ascends the
valley of the Arakawa through
very pretty scenery.
Nogami lies a little way from the
river, which is left behind at the
hamlet of Kanasaki, whence the way
lies again across a richly cultivated
tract of country.
Omiya {Inrit Kado-ya) is noted
for its silk fabric called futako-
ori. Fairs are frequently held
here, which are largely attended
during the season by dealers in raw
silk and cocoons. At Kagemori, 20
cho from Omiya, a path turns off 1.
to a temple of Kwannon, built in a
cave, which is considered the chief
wonder of the country-side. At the
temple, the name of which is
KyorjKiji, a guide is provided.
The CavCt which is close by, con-
sists of two chief ramifications
in the limestone rock, and is ren-
dered fairly easy walking, or rather
creeping, by means of ladders and
planks. The stalactites in it take
a variety of fantastic shapes to
which realistic names are given,
such as the five viscera, the
breasts, the dragon's tail and
head, the lotus-flower, etc. As
usual, Kobo Daishi gets the credit
of having discovered this wonderful
place. The inspection of the cave
occupies about J hr. The exit is
within a few min. walk of Hashitate,
on the way to Umi-no-kuohi in
Shinshu by the Jiimon-toge,
whence it is a distance of 18^
ri to Kofu over the Tsuyu-
tare pass (see p. 138), with the
option of ascending Akadake and
Gongen-dake^ — the latter, the most
southerly of the numerous peaks
collectively known as Yatsu-ga-take.
1.40
Route 12, — Tfie Talmsakl-Yolcokawa Fuiilway,
Buko-zan may be ascended from
Omiya ; but there is no special at-
traction in the ascent, and no view
obtainable from its forest-covered
summit. Hikawa, situated in the
valley of the Tamagawa (see p. 126),
about 11 ri from Omiya, may be
reached by a path over the Sen-
gen-t5ge. But the most interesting
route for mountain enthusiasts is
that to Koshu by the Karizaka-toge.
The distance is variously estimated
at from 23 ri to 28 ri. At Kama-
gaway 11 ri from Omiya, good ac-
commodation can be obtained, and
at Sashide carriages may be en-
gaged to Kofu, a distance of 3^ ri.
ROUTE 12.
The Tokyo -Takasaki-Yokokawa
Railway. [Maebashi.] Isobe.
Myogi-san.
Distance
from
Tokyo.
Names
of
Stations.
#
Remarks.
4 m.
6
13
17
22
24
29
34
38
46
51
56
63
64}
69
7H
771
80^
TOKV:o(Ueno).
Oji.
Akabane Jet
Urawa.
Omiya Jot
CUp trains
< change for
L Yokohama.
C Change for
■5 Nikko and
C the North.
See p. 96.
rOhange for
< Karuizawa
(. & Maebanhi.
|Alight for
i Myogi-san.
Ageo.
Okegawa.
Kdnosu
Pukiage.
Kumagai.
Fnkaya.
Honj6.
Shimmachi.
TAKASAKI
Jet
lizuka.
Annaka.
Isobe
Matsuida.
YOKOKAWA.
The construction of this line of
railway, intended to lead over the
Usui-toge to Karuizawa and connect
with the Karuizawa-Naoetsu line,
has been temporarily suspended at
Yokokawa, near the foot of the pass,
owing to engineering difficulties.
The line closely follows the first
stages of the old Nakasendo (see
Route 39), and is flat and uninter-
esting till TakasaJd Junction is
passed.
Urawa (InUy Yamaguchi-ya) is
the seat of government of the prefec-
ture of Saitama, which includes the
greater part of the province of
Musashi except Tokyo.
Omiya (Inn, Takashima-ya in the
Public Garden supplies foreign food).
An avenue of 1 m. in lenglh leads
to the Hikawa no Jinja, the chief
Shinto temple of the province of
Musashi, situated in grounds which
have been turned into a public
garden. The temple is said to have
been founded in honour of Susano-o
by Yamato-take, on his return from
subduing the barbarous tribes of the
East. Leaving Omiya, the first
place of importance reached is
Kumagai (Inn, Shimizu - ya),
which carries on a large trade in silk
and cotton. This town possesses
historical interest in connection
with the warrior Kumagai Naozane
(see p. 42). At
Honjo (Inn, Moroi) there are
some important cross - country
roads, one of which joins the Rei-
heishi Kaidb, the route formerly
followed by the Mikado's annual
envoy to the shrine of leyasu at
Nikko, but no^ for the most part
deserted by travellers.
Shimmachi (Inn, Mitsumata)
is a large silk producing place.
Takasaki (Inn, Sakai-ya ; Restt.,
Sumiyoshi, at station) was formerly
the castle- town of a Daimyo, and is
still an important industrial centre.
[The railway branches off here to
Maebashi, 6 m., where it meets
the Byomo line from Oyama
(see Boute 15). Maebashi
Isohe, Myogi'San,
141
{IiinSj Akagi-tei, foreign food ;
Abura-ya), formerly the seat of
a great Daimyo named Matsu-
daira Yamato-no-Kami, is now
the capital of the prefecture of
Gumma, and an important
centre of the silk trade, one of
the best qualities of raw silk
being named after the town.
To the N. rises the extinct vol-
cano of Akagi-san, and W. is the
curious group of mountains col-
lectively called Haruna, on the
N. Hank of which are situated
the fashionable baths of Ikao,
described in Koute 14.]
liziika is a station at the W. end
of Takasaki, some distance from
the business part of the town. It
is on one of the roads to Ikao.
Isobe (InnSy *Ky6ju-kwan, Haya-
shi-ya, and others). This is the
best station to alight at for a visit to
the Remarkable conglomeration of
rocks crowning Myogi-san. The inns
are in all respects pleasanter than
those at the vill. of Myogi at the
foot of the mountain. But travel-
lers coming eastwards from Karui-
zawa may alight at Matsuida,
tbe station beyond, the distance
from each of these two places to
Myogi being about the same. Isobe
is reached in 4 hrs. by rail, and
My5gi by toad in 1 hr. more ; and
as less than a day is required for
seeing the marvels of the moun-
tain, the journey from the capital
and back may thus be accomplished
in a day and a half.
Isobe is a watering-place of recent
growth, lying in a wide valley less
than 1,000 ft. above the level of
the sea. Exposed as it is on all
sides, it is neither mild in winter
nor cool in summer. The mineral
waters of Isobe contain a large
quantity of carbonic acid gas, and,
nnlike most other Japanese springs,
ace beneficial to persons suJSering
from catarrh of the stomach and
other internal complaints. On the
road to Myogi, a good view is
obtained of Akagi-san and Haruna-
san to the N., and Asama-yama to
the W. If the visit be made in
autumn, the precipitous sides of
the MyOgi range will be found
in a glow of rich colour arising from
the crimson tints of the maples th^t
mingle with the variegated leaves of
other trees, and render the scene one
of beauty as well as weirdness.
Mydgi (InnSf Shishiya, Kambe-
ya) is an insignificant village.
The shrine at MyOgi is dedicated to the
memory of the 18th abbot of Enryaknji,
a temple on Hiei-zan near Kydto, who, ia
the reign of the Emperor Daigo ( A.D. 808-
930), retired here to mourn over the
sudden downfall and banishment of his
pupil, the famous Sugawara-no-Michisane.
After his death, he was deified under
the title of Myogi Dai Gongen. Over two
centuries ago, a fresh fit of zeal on the
part of his devotees was the cause of the
shrine being rebuilt in the grand style of
which the traces still remain. It is now
in charge of Shinto priests.
The temple stand a shorts distance
above the village, in the midst of
a grove of magnificent crypto-
merias. The Oku-no-in is 25 nM
further up the mountain, and above
this the clifis are nearly per-
pendicgalar. A rocky cave, formed
by a huge block resting in a fissure^
contains an image of the god. On
the summit of one of the j uttiri^ peaks
near the Oku-no-in, is the enormous
Chinese character ^ (dai)^ * great.*
Its dimensions are stated at 80 ft. hf
20 ft., and it is constructed of thin
bamboos tied together. It is covered
with strips of paper, the votive
ofierings of pilgrims, which give it
the appearance from below of being
painted white. The surrounding
scenery is most romantic. From
the bosom of a gloomy grove rise
innumerable rocky pinnacles, grad-
ually increasing in height round
a lofty central peak, the whole
vaguely recalling the front of some
colossal Gothic cathedral.
Dr. Naumann describes Myogi-
san as a system ol grand acute-
edged, deeply serrated dykes, ap-
parently radiating from a oommcm
centre, whose highest smnmit is
about 3,650 ft. in height. Pro-
bably it is the skeleton of a ^veaj
W
142
Route 13, — Karidzuiva and Asamayama,
old volcano. The ascent of the
highest peak visible from the vill. of
My5gi can be accomplished in less
than half a day. To scale this peak
is a rather dangerous undertaking.
Those, however, who can appreciate
the delights of rough and difficult
climbing, ought not to miss the
opportunity of mounting Hakun-
zan, the jagged ridge rising directly
above the village. The S. wing is
called Kinkei-san ; Kinto-san is be-
tween the two. The highest point
of Myogi-san is behind Hakun-zan.
Bdsokit-ishij * the Candle-Stone,' is a
conspicuous projection belonging
to Kinkei-san and forming the
N.W. termination of this dyke.
It takes about 1^ hr. to get from
the vill. to Daikoku-san, where is a
small shrine at the foot of the Hige-
suri-iwa, or * Beard- Scraping Rock,'
a slender column of volcanic breccia.
The last 10 ft. of the climb up
the Hige-suri-iwa is achieved with
the assistance of an iron chain
and ladder fixed in the rock.
From this coign of vantage, the lofty
peak of Naka-no-take and many
other curious rocks are visible.
The way to Daikoku-san leads over
the pass between Kinkei-sao and
Kinto-san. A gigantic natural arch,
called Ichi no Sekhnon^ is passed
on this way. Kurakake-san is
of smaller size and higher up.
Ni no Sekimon and San no Seki-
mon are clefts in the mountain,
further on, reached after a break-
neck climb. The perforation in
Ni-no-Sekimon is invisible from this
side of the mountain, but is to be
seen from Yokokawa and the Usui-
toge. According to local tradition,
the hole was made by an arrow
shot from the bow of a certain Yuri-
waka Daijin while standing at the
vill. of Yokokawa. The modern-
looking edifice below the Hige-Suri-
iwa was built for the priests, after
the burning of the two temples
there in 1872.
Leaving ^lyogi, the railway may
be rejoined at Matsaida; or else
one may walk on for 2 ri to a,
point a little further along the
Nakasendo near
Yok<»kiiwa {Inns, *Ogino-ya, Ko-
dake-ya, both at the station).
ROUTE 13.
Karuizawa and Asama-yama.
1. — Kabuizawa and Neighbour-
hood.
Karuizawa is reached from Tokyo
by the Tokyo Takasaki-Yokokawa
Railway, 4^ hrs. to the present ter-
minus, Yokokawa. A new section,
carrying the line over the Usui Pass,
is now in course of construction.
From Yokokawa onwards there is a
choice of roads, namely : —
I. The carriage road, also used
for jinrikishas and for the horse
tramway. This road does not pass
the old vill. of Karuizawa, but
crosses further south to Shin-Ka-
ruizawa (New Karuizawa). The
cars, small and uncomfortable, but
nevertheless the best means of
conveyance, take 2^ hrs. to make
the journey, which, owing to the
narrowness of the gauge, the ser-
pentine windings of the road, the
precipitous slopes skirted on one
side and the jagged rocks on the
other, is of a somewhat exciting
character. The distance traversed by
car is 11^ miles. Shin- Karuizawa
{Inn, Abura-ya) is J hr. by jinrikisha
from the old vill. (Kyu-Karuizawa).
II. The pedestrian road, leading
over the summit of the pass, and
only just practicable for jinrikishas.
It is, however, excellent for walking,
the soil being a combination of vol-
canic matter, clay, and sand,.which
is very porous and binds well. This
road is a favourite one with the
summer visitors to Karuizawa. The
pass is thickly wooded ; but views
of the extensive plain below, with
Kaniizaira.
148
the rocky peaks of Myogi-san on
the r. and the bolder mountains of
Kotsuke on the 1. (looking back),
are obtained at several points during
the ascent. From the half-way
tea-houses, the road winds gradually
up to the summit, 6 m. from
Yokokawa, and commands a fine
prospect of the extinct volcanoes
of Haruna and Akagi, Tsukuba-san,
and the precipitous rocks on the
S. of the pass which form the
boundary between Kotsuke and Shin-
shu. On the summit of the pass
(4,050 ft.), there are a few houses
and a small temple. The view from
the steps of the shrine, although
extensive, is so often obscured by
clouds of mist sweeping over the
summit, that the traveller has but a
rare chance of enjoying a clear
prospect.
In this spot is localised the following
le^nd, which is preserved in the Kqjiki .—
When Yamato-take was crossing from
Sagami to Kazusa in the course of his
expedition against the barbarous tribes
who then inhabited that region, (he ridi-
culed) the name of Ua»hiri-mizu (Running
water) given to the strait, and exclaimed
that it was no more than an easy jump
across. The Sea-Gorl, offended at this
insult, so disturbed the waters that Ya-
mato-take's ship was unable to advance.
Upon this, his consort Oto-Tachibana-
Hime said to him, ' I will drown myself
in your stead '—and as she plunged into
the sea, the waves became still. Seven
days afterwards her comb floated ashore.
ITie prince built a tomb, and deposited
the comb therein. In returning to the
capital after subduing the triljes, he
stopped to rest at the top of the Usui
Pass, and gazing over the plain, said
thrice in a melancholy voice : 'Azvma «Yr.
ya'CAlas! my wife'), whence the name
of Aznma by which Eastern Japan is still
known.
Kjrfi-Knrnizawa (Imiy Bansho-
kwan) lies in the upper corner of a
grassy moor, 780 ft. below the
summit of the pass. During the
descent, Asama-yama, the Koslm
Shirane-san and Koma-ga-take, Ya-
tsu-ga-take, and Tateshina-yama
come into view. The vill. was in
former times principally dependent
upon travellers over the ancient
highway, and appears to have just
escaped ruin, after the construction
of the railway, by a number of the
foreign residents of Tokyo making it
a retreat from the imhealthy heat of
the city during the summer months.
The old inns have been hired, and
a few new villas built on the moun-
tain slopes. Its lofty situation
(3,270 ft.) gives it a temperature
seldom excessive during the day,
and invariably cool at night. The
rainfall, although heavy, bears
favourable comparison with Nikko
and other mountain resorts, and
owing to the porous nature of the
soil in the vicinity, leaves fewer
traces behind. The place is never-
theless not free from mosquitoes,
and the small sand-fly called buyu
abounds, — an insect which inflicts a
bite, painless at flrst, but afterwards
extremely irritable and liable to
swell during several succeeding days.
Bread, milk, and occasionally beef
and flsh are obtainable. An un-
cultivated moor, covered with wild-
flowers in July and August, extends
for miles in a southerly direction,
while on theE.it terminates in a
range of grassy hills.
The chief excursion from Karui-
zawa is the ascent of Asama-yama
(seep. 144). There is also a variety
of shorter walks, viz.
1. Ata^o-yama. This isolated
hill, 20 min. walk from the vill.,
is ascended by two flights of stone
steps, and has some curious perpen-
dicular rocks half-way up.
2. Ilaniire-yania, about 1 m. off.
On its E. side, near the summit, is
a large cave inhabited by bats.
It may be reached in about an
hour by a very rough climb up a
precipitous landslip. The view
from the narrow ledge at the mouth
of the cave is extensive.
3. Iriyaiiia-toge, 1 hr. by the
base of the hills skirting the moor,
and past the curious rock called
Kamado-iwa by the Japanese, and
' Pulpit Rock ' by foreigners. The
summit commands probably the
finest view obtainable of the valley
leading to the base of Myogi-san,
and, looking backwards, of the wide
144
Route 13, — Karuizawa and Asama-yama^
stretch of moorland and Asama-
yama.
4. Wami-togr^. From the foot
of the Iriyama-t5ge, the path keeps
to the r., and in 40 min. more the
road from Oiwake over the Wami-
toge is reached. The ascent is easy.
After a short hut steep descent on
the opposite side, a path 1. leads to
the hamlet of Ongawa situated at
the base of the Rdsoku-iway aptly
re -named by foreigners the * Cathe-
dral Bocks,' and remarkable for the
petrified wood found in the neigh-
bourhood. It is possible to return
direct over the mountains to the
Karuizawa plain, but the path is
difficult to find. This excursion
occupies the greater part of a day.
5. Yiinosawa^ ^ hr., by a path
leading from the centre of the vill.
towards Asama-yama. In the small
house here a bath may be had,
tepid mineral water being brought
from the hill beyond. Continuing
along the same path, which soon
leads over more elevated ground and
passes through beautiful stretches
of forest, the baths of
6. Kose are reached in about an
hour. Kose is a tiny hamlet in
a hollow of the hills, but possess-
es a commodious inn and good
baths. A very fair road has
been built from Kose to Kutsukake
on the Nakasend5, a walk of 45
min. Kutsukake is 3f m. from
Karuizawa.
7. Kiiit.su mi ( Inn^ * Chosai-
kwan). The thermal springs of this
place are reached after a 3 hrs.
walk over the Usui Pass. Not far
from the summit a narrow path
turns 1., leading up and down a suc-
cession of wooded mountain gorges,
till the final descent is made into the
vale in which Kiritsumi nestles at
a height of 2,700 ft. The baths may
be more conveniently reached by
a jinrikisha road from Yokokawa,
2^ ri. The way is pretty, but the
view is shut out on all sides. The
water of Kiritsumi is slightly saline,
with a temperature of 104 F.
Higher up, in a neighbouring
valley, is the old-fashioned water-
ing-place of Irinoyu with accom-
modation only for peasant guests.
The baths are sulphureous and have
a high temperature.
2. — ASAMA-TAMA.
Asama-ynifia (8,280 ft.) is not
only the largest active volcano in
Japan, but also the most accessible.
The excursion to the top and back
may be made from Karuizawa in
one day.
The last great eruption occurred in the
summer of 1783, when a vast stream of
lava destroyed a primeval forest of con-
siderable extent, together with several
villages on the N. ^ide. Subsequent
eruptions have produced mere showers
of ashes. At the foot of the steep cone
the subterranean disturbances can be
distinctly heard, and the sulphureous
exhalations near the summit often make
this part of the ascent very oppressive.
The ascent from the Wdkasare-
no-Chayay a hut on the road to
Kusatsu, is the one now usually
made, and is certainly the least
fatiguing. The best plan is to hire a
horse at Karuizawa, where foreign
saddles may be procured, ride via
Kutsukake (Inrij Tsuchi-ya) to Ko-
Asama (2^ hrs.), the small excres-
cence on the mountain side, and
walk up by the Wakasare-no-chaya
path. The climb is steep, but the
path a good solid one of cinders,
marked at intervals by small cairns.
The time taken to the edge of the
crater is about 2 hrs.
The crater is circular, about |
m. in circumference, with per-
pendicular honeycombed and burnt
red sides, generally full of sul-
phureous steam welling up from the
bottom and from the crevices in its
sides. On the S. side of the moun-
tain rise two precipitous rocky
walls, separated by 9. considerable
interval, the outer one being lower
and nearly covered with vegetation.
They seem to be the remains of two
successive concentric craters, the
existing cone being the third and
most recent. The nearer is quite
bare, and columnar in structure at
the centre. The side of the cone is
•r
Boiite 14, — Ikao, Kitsatsu, and NeiyhhourhooiL
145
Btrewn with large rough fragments
of loose lava, and unfathomable
rifts extend for the greater part of
the way down to its base. The
view from the summit is very ex-
tensive:— to the N., the whole of
the Kotsuke mountains with the
Haruna group and Akagi-san ; the
Nikk6 range and the E. range
dividing Shinshu from Kotsuke ; the
sea far away in the distance ; next
the Koshu mountains on the S.,
with Fuji peering over them ; the
conical Yatsu-ga- take and adjacent
summits of Koshu ; and then on the
W., the huge range that forms the
boundary between Shinshu and
Hida. The descent to the Waka-
sare-no-chaya takes about 1} hr.
Another way up, occupying about
5^ hrs., is from Oiwake {Inn, Naka-
mura-ya), a vill. on the Nakasendo,
2 rt 14 cho from Karuizawa, and
formerly a place of some note, but
much deteriorated since railway
enterprise diverted the traffic from
the highway. On leaving Oiwake,
the path ascends gently through
sloping meadows covered with wild-
flowers ; then the acclivity becomes
greater, and gritty ash is reached.
At an elevation of 1,145 ft. above
Oiwake, is a cascade hidden among
the trees that skirt a deep gorge.
The height of the fall is about 18 ft.;
the red colour of the water and
of the underlying rock — volcanic"
breccia covered with a red crust —
give it a strange appearance. At a
height of 8,225 ft. above Oiwake, all
vegetation ceases. For 1,600 ft.
more, the path proceeds up a steep
ascent of loose ash to the edge of
the outer ridge, which from the vill.
below appears to be the summit,
though in reality below it. The
path then descends, and crosses over
to the base of the present cone,
which is more easily climbed.
Dr. Rein recommends ascending
from KomorOf a station on the
Kaniizawa-Naoetsu line, 13^ m.
from Karuizawa. This ascent joins
the path from Oiwake at the little
cascade mentioned above.
ROUTE 14.
Ikao, Kusatsu, and Neighbour-
hood.
1. ikao. 2. walks and excursions
from ikao: haruna, the hot
springs of shima, ikao to asama-
yama. 8. kusatsu. 4. walks
in the neighbourhood of kusa-
tsu. 5. from kusatsu to nagano
over the shibu-tooe, ascent
of shirane-san, the torii-toge.
1. — Ikao.
Ikao is a short day's journey
from Tokyo (Ueno station) to Maie-
bashi by the Takasaki-Maebashi
Railway in 3^ hrs. (see p. 140) ;
thence 6 ri 8 cJio (15 m.) partly by
tram, partly by carriage or jinriki-
sha, but jinrikisha the whole way to
be preferred at present. The latter
part of the ride is uphill, so that
two men are indispensable.
Hotels. — *Muramatsu, • KindayB,
European style. There are also the
Budaiyu, Chigura, Shimada Hachi-
ro, and other good inns in Japanese
style.
Ikao, one of the best summer
resorts in Japan, is built on ter-
races along the N. E. slope of
Mount Haruna, at an elevation
varying from 2,500 to 2,700 ft. The
picturesque main street, which di-
vides the vill. into an eastern and
a western part, consists of. one near-
ly continuous steep flight of steps.
The houses W. of the steps border
on a deep ravine called the Yusawa,
through which rushes a foaming tor-
rent. Ikao has the advantage of cool
nights, absence of mosquitoes, and
an unusually beautiful situation,
offering from nearly every house a
grand view of the valleys of the
Agatsuma-gawa and Tonegawa,
and of the high mountain-ranges
on the border of the great plain
in which Tokyo is situated. From
no other place can the Nikko
mountains be seen to such ad-
146
Boiite 14, — Ikao and KnHatm,
vantage. It is famous for its
mineral springs, which have a
temperature of 45° C. (115° F.), and
which contain a small amount of
iron and sulphate of soda. The
springs have been known since
prehistoric times. According to the
Japanese style of bathing, the hot
baths are made use of several times
a day, and indiscriminately by
patients of every description. Late-
ly the water has been used for
drinking purposes, but it has little
more efiect than pure hot water.
2. — Walks and Excursions from
Ikao.
1. Along the Yusawa ravine to
Yiiinoto, about ^ m., nearly level.
Yu-moto means lit., * the source of
the hot water.' Seats are erected
for the accommodation of visitors,
who resort there lo drink of the
mineral spring. The water, which
at its source is quite clear, has a
slightly inky taste. On being ex-
posed to the air the carbonic acid
evaporates, and part of the iron
which the water contains is preci-
pitated as a yellowish mass. This
covers the bed of the river and the
bottom of the aqueduct, and gives
the water in the baths a thick,
discoloured appearance. The people,
who have great faith in the strength-
ening effects of this precipitated
iron salt, place large strips of cotton
cloth in the stream. When the
cloth has assumed a deep yellow
'colour, it is taken out, dried, and
used as a belt round the body. The
mineral water is led down to Ikao
from Yusawa in bamboo pipes.
2. Up Konipira-snii, ihr. climb.
Though of no great height, the
top commands an extensive view,
stretching from Shirane-san near
Kusatsu to Tsukuba-san in Hitachi,
and including the Mikuni and Nikko
ranges, Akagi-san, and the valley
of the Tonegawa. Just below the
summit, a narrow path leads over
the ridge to Futatsu-dake.
3. To Miishi*yii (lit., 'the steam
bath '), so called from the sulphur-
eous gases which here emanate
from holes in the ground, over
which huts have been erected for the
treatment of rheumatic patients.
The number of naked people gene-
rally standing about at Mushi-yu
makes this place unsightly. The
time taken to reach the baths
is about f hr. Sengen-yama, Fu-
tatsu-dake, and Soma may all be
ascended from Mushi-yu. The
view from the top of Soma (4,500
ft. above the sea level, 1,800 ft.
above Ikao) is magnificent. The
summit of Fuji appears over the
Chichibu mountains nearly due
S. To the W. of it are seen the
Koshu Shirane, the Koma-ga-take's
of Koshii and Shinshii seemingly
in close proximity, then Yatsu-ga-
take, Ontake about W. S. W., Asa-
ma-yama a little to the S. of W.,
Yahazu-yama W. N. W., then the
Shirane of Kusatsu, and a part of
the Hida-Shinshii range. Eastwards
rise Tsukuba-san and the Shirane
of Nikko, with one of the peaks of
Akagi-san half-way between them.
The town of Maebashi is visible to
to the E. S. E., with the Tonegawa
half encircling it, before pursuing
its course down the plain. Soma
may also be ascended from the path
to Haruna.
4. To the pretty little waterfall
of Renteri-daki, on the stream
which issues from Lake Haruna ;
1 hr. easy walking.
5. To Hnriina, about 4 m. to the
lake, and 1^ m. more on to the
temple. This is by far the prettiest
expedition from Ikao. Most people
will prefer to walk, but it is possible
for a jinrikisha to get there : better
take 8 coolies.
[On the way to Haruna, a con-
spicuous conical hill called
the Haruna Fuji is passed,
the ascent of which occupies
about I hr. from the place
where the path diverges. The
near view from the summit is
very beautiful, showing the
Ilaruna. Shiiiia. Kuxatsu.
147
lake and surroundiDg moun-
tains to great advantage. The
distant prospect includes most
of the view already described
as seen from Soma. — The best
plan is to make of this a
separate expedition. There is
grazing-ground for cattle on
this little Fuji. It is there
that the milch -cows that supply
Ikao are kept.]
Lake Harnna, which apparently
occupies the site of an extinct
crater, contains salmon and other
fish. On its border is a tea-house
where one may lunch. From the
lake it is a short and easy ascent
to the top of a pass called the
Tefijin-toge, some 800 ft. above
Ikao, commanding an extensive
view. From the Tenjin-tdge the
path descends a wooded glen to
the ancient Shinto temple of
Haruna, situated amongst precipi-
tous and overhanging volcanic rocks,
in a grove of lofty cryptomerias.
It is dedicated to Ho-musubi, the
God of Fire, and Haniyasu-hime, the
Goddess of Earth. Over the princi-
pal building, which is decoratjed
with excellent wood-carvings (espe-
cially two dragons twined round
the side-beams of the porch), hangs
a huge rock supported on a slender
base, which seems every moment to
threaten the temple with destruc-
tion. The whole site is one of the
most weird and fantastic that
can be imagined, nature appearing
to have lain a wager here to per-
form quaint feats in stone, the least
malleable of all materials.
6. The hot springs of Sliima lie
nearly 8 ri from Ikao, so that an
expedition there involves staying
the night. Shima may most con-
veniently be taken en route to Kusa-
tsu, the way being the same as far
as 20 cho past Nakanojo, on the
road to Sawatari. Jinrikishas can
be taken, but must occasionally be
alighted from. Shima includes two
hamlets, called respectively Yama-
guchi Onsen and Arai-yu, 8 cho
distant from each other. Travel-
lers are recommended not to stay
at the former, but to go on to Arai-
yu and put up at the inn kept by
Tamura MosaburO. The hamlet is
picturesquely situated close to the
river, on whose bank the springs
which supply the baths gush forth.
Travellers not returning to Ikao, but
going on to Sawatari, need not pass
again through Nakanojo, as there
is a shorter cut from a place called
Kimino. It is, however, scarcely
passable for jinrikishas.
7. To Asama-yama. It is a 2
days' trip from Ikao to the
volcano. The first day takes one
by jinrikisha to lizuka (the station
at the W. end of Takasaki), 7 ri
8 choy whence train to Yokokawa
and tram to Karuizawa, where sleep.
For the ascent on the second day
see p. 144.
An alternative way for the pedes-
trian on the first day, is to go over
the mountains from Ikao vi& Haru-
na-san to Kami Moroda, Sangen-
jaya, and Matsuida statioui, — a
splendid day's walk. From Matsu-
ida to Karuizawa, train and tram,
as above. Matsuida is also the sta-
tion for MyOgi-san (see p. 141).
3. KUSATSU.
The stalwart pedestrian can walk
over from Ikao to Kusatsu in one
long day w'lk Gochoda, Nakanojd,
Sawatari, and Namazu,-^a delight-
fully picturesque expedition of 11^
ri (28 m.), or else one may take a
pack-horse. There is no good ac-
commodation to be had on the way ;
but should a break in the journey
become indispensable, Sawatari
(Inn^ Shin Kanoya), a small bathing
vill. 6 ri 9 cho from Ikao, will pro-
bably be found the least uncom-
fortable place at which to spend the
night.
An alternative way from Ikao to
Kusatsu is vi& the hamlets of Go-
choda, Haramachi, Yokoya, and Na-
ganohara, a distance of nearly 14 rL
This way is much recommended
us
Route 14. — Ikiio and Kasatsu,
on account of thfe beautiful scenery
of portions of the valley of the
Agatsuma-gawa. It is practicable
for jinrikishas from Gochoda to
Yokoya, and for pack-horses the
remainder of the way. There is no
accommodation on the way until
reaching Naganohara.
Kusatsu can also easily be reached
from Tokyo by taking the railway
to Karuizawa (see p. 140), whence it
is an 11 ri journey across the open,
park-like country lying at the base
of Asama-yama. Another way from
Tokyo — both convenient and pretty
— is by rail to Toyono near Nagano
on the Karuizawa-Naoetsu Railway,
and thence vi& Shibu, as explained
on p. 149. Both these latter ways
take 2 days from Tokyo.
Kusatsu, (3,800 ft. above sea-
level), whose trim, cleanly ap-
pearance strongly recalls that of a
village in the Tyrol, is the coolest of
Japan's summer resorts, and mos-
quitoes are altogether unknown.
Visitors who, attracted by these con-
siderations, may think of spending
any time there, must however re-
member that the mineral waters are
specially efficacious — not only in
rheumatism, and, as recently dis-
covered by Dr. Baelz, in gout — but in
syphilis, leprosy, and other loath-
some diseases. Indeed, the effect of
the waters at first is to bring out new
sores more plentiful than the old,
and the horrors that walk the
streets must be seen to be believed.
The chief constituents of the Kusa-
tsu springs are mineral acids,
sulphur, and arsenic. Some of the
springs are cold; the temperature
of others is extremely high, ranging
from 113° to 130° Fahrenheit, ac-
cording to the spring. Even the
Japanese, inured as they are to
hot baths, find their courage fail
them ; and the native invalids are
therefore taken to bathe in squads
under a semi-military discipline to
which they voluntarily submit.
Most curious is the sort of ohorio
chant which takes place between
the bathers and their leader on
entering and while sitting in the
bath, a trial which, though lasting
only from 3^ to 4 minutes, seems au
eternity to their festering, agonised
bodies. First of all, the bathers are
made to pour hot water over their
heads many times, to avoid the
risk of congestion. After the lapse
of about one minute, the leader
cries out, and the others all res-
pond in unison. After a little he
cries out, * Three minutes have
passed.' — * Three minutes ! ' re-
echoes the chorus. After another
half-minute or so, *Two minutes
more I ' then * One minute more ! *
the chorus answering each time
with an inarticulate murmur. At
last the leader cries * Finished ! '
whereupon the whole mass of
naked bodies leap out of the
water with an alacrity which he
who has witnessed their slow, pain-
ful entry into the place of torture
would scarcely have credited. The
usual plan, after a course of the
Kusatsu baths, is to go for the
* after-cure * to Sawatari, 6 ri 9
cho distant, where the waters have
a softening effect on the skin, and
quickly alleviate the terrible irrita-
tion which the acids contained in
the Kusatsu waters produce. Of
late years, foreigners have shown a
tendency to desert Sawatari in
favour of Shibu (see p. 149), which is
one of the cleanest watering-places
in Japan, indeed a little paradise.
Accommodation. — The character
of the patients who resort to Kusa-
tsu makes it incumbent on the
traveller to exercise great care in
the selection of his hostelry; and
if he intends to make a lengthened
stay, he is advised to take every-
thing with him, even bedding. The
best house to stay at is Ichii^ at the
far-end of the village, — rooms nice,
baths separate and not too hot ;
charge (in 1890), 91.50 per diem for
the room alone, $40 by the month.
Yamamoto Yuhikoro, and Kuroiwa
may also be recommended. Ichii
and Yamamoto have each a de-
tached cottage to let, and any of the
Neighbourhood of Kusatsu.
149
inns will assist the traveller to ob-
tain rooms at the temple, which
stands close to the school and is
quite out of reach of objectionable
patients. The daily bath-tax, which
allows one to bathe in any or all
the springs any number of times
a day, " was, in the summer of
1890, 1 sen 8 ri», or less than a
penny.
4. — Walks in the Neighbourhood ,
OF Kusatsu.
1. To the solfatara of Sessho-
gawnra^ on the ^ slope of Moto-
Shirane, about 1 ri.
2. To Sai-no-Kawara and Kori-
daui^ 20 cho. The meaning of the
name Sai-no-Kawara is * the river-
bed of souls.' On its numerous
rocks and boulders, small stones
have been piled up by visitors as
oflEerings to dead children. Among
these rocks is one called Yiirugi-
Ishij which, notwithstanding its-
being a huge boulder, is so nicely
balanced that it can be moved by
the hand. Kori-dani is so-called from
the frozen snow which is to be found
there even during the dog-days.
3. To the small Shinto-shrine of
Snira (Suwa-no-jinja), 25 cho.
4. Via Suwa-no-jinja, Higane,
Eiyozuka, and Hikinuma, to Han a-
shiki near Iriyama, where the hot
springs spurting up in the middle
of the cold stream afford the means
for a bath of an unwontedly two-
fold character. About 2^ ri,
5. Part of the way to Otokii, up a
pathless hill to a place which, just
above thirty-three stone images of
Kwannon, offers a magnificent pano-
rama of the whole neighbouring
country. Distance, about 1 ri; on
to Otoku, about 20 cho more.
6. To Xaniao, 1 ri.
7. To Kosame^ IJ ri on the way
to Sawatari.
8. To Uikage. 2 ri,
9- To San-no-sawa> 25 cho on
the way to Elaruizawa, and through
a splendid forest to Haneo or to
Maeguchi, 20 cho more. Or else
to San-no-sawa by the new road,
which skirts Moto-Shirane and is
therefore somewhat longer. A path
leads hence, 10 cho, up one of the
spurs of Moto-Shirane to a small
stone shrine with a fine view of
Asama-yama and other mountains,
5. — KUSATSU TO NAGANO OVER THE
SHIBU-TOGE, INCLUDING ASCENT
OP SHIRANE-SAN. THE TORII-TOGE.
Itinerary.
KUSATSU to :— Bi\ Cho. M.
Top of the Shibu-
toge 2 32 7
SHIBU 3 22 8J
Toy ono (Station).... 3 — 7|
NAGANO 2 29 6J
Total 12 11 30
On foot or on pack-horse as far as
Shibu (2,250 ft. above the sea) ;
thence carriage to Toyono ; thence
train to Nagano.
This route affords very pretty
scenery. Including the ascent of
Shirane-san, which is a noteworthy
volcano, the whole journey takes a
little more than 1 day. The best
plan is to leave Kusatsu early, and
sleep at Sllibli (Inny *Tsubata-ya),
catching the train at Toyono in
the forenoon of the next day. Those
who do not care to visit the temple
of Zenkoji at Nagano, can either
continue on by rail to Karuizawa
and Tokyo, or'toNaoetsu on the Sea
of Japan. The route is one special-
ly recommended to those who have
been taking the sulphur baths at
Kusatsu. Instead of going for the
* after - cure ' to Sawatari — the
usual Japanese routine — they can
stay en route at Shibu, where there
are thermal springs suitable to their
needs, and be far more comfortable.
The picturesqueness of the road
from Kusatsu to Shibu is purchased
at the expense of many steep hills.
On the other hand, those who go on
150
Route 15. — The Ryonw Hailway,
horseback will find that they can
ride right into the crater of Shirane-
san without needing to dismount.
It is 3 hrs. from Kusatsu to the
summit of the cone, which is 6,600
ft. above the level of the sea, and
3,000 ft. above Kusatsu. The crater
is oval in shape, its longer diameter
being about 600 yds., its breadth
150 yds. to 200 yds. The walls are
very steep ; but on the E. side is
a depression, — that through which,
as already noticed, travellers can
enter. The sight of the large sul-
phureous lake, bubbling and seeth-
ing, is most remarkable. The
descent from the top of the pass to
the vill. of Shibu is long and steep,
with picturesque views of the river
gorges. On the way down, the
following mountains come in sight :
MyOko-zan in Echigo, Kurohime,
Togakushi-san, and Izuna.
An alternative way to Nagano
from Kusatsu is over the Yamada-
to^e, which is comparatively short,
and where the baths of Yamada
may be visited. Another is over
the Torli-togfi. Both of these
descend to the vill. of Suzaka, where
jinrikishas can be obtained. The
itinerary of the Torii-toge route,
part of which is picturesque, is as
follows :
KUSATSU to;— BL Cho, M.
Mihara 2 6 5i
Ozasa 2 30 7
Tashiro 1 18 3J
Torii-toge 30 2
Nire 4 24 11^
Suzaka 1 29 4|
NAGANO 3 11 8
Total 17 4 41|
KOUTE 15.
The Ry5m6 Railway.
TEMPLE-CA"S^S OP IZURU. ASCEin?
OF AKAGI-SAN.
Distance
from
Tokyo.
Names
of
Stations.
Remarks.
48 m.
54J
60
64^
71}
77
81
83
87
91
9ii
994
TOKYO (Ueno).
Oyama
( See Northern
] Railway,
( Route 24.
(•Alight for
-< c a ve s of
C Izuru.
(Road to Nik-
< kobyWata-
rase-gawa.
Tochigi.
Iwafune.
SANO
Ashikaga.
Omata,
Kirya.
OMAMA
Kunisada.
Isesaki.
Komakata.
MAEBASHI.
This line of railway, branching
oS. from the Northern line at
Oyama, which is reached in 2^ hrs.
from Tokyo, traverses the provinces
of Kotsuke and Shimotsuke. It af-
fords an alternative, though longer,
railway route from Tokyo to Mae-
bashi, and is the easiest way of
reaching the hot springs of Ikao in
one day from Nikko. The scenery
is pretty all along the route.
Tochig'i (InnSj Kanahan, Yoshi-
kawa-ya) is one of the most im-
portant towns in Shimotsuke. Its
chief product is hempen thread.
Sano or TemmyO {IniiSt Saito,
Kiku-ya) is a pretty and prosperous
place. Its Public Park lies close to
the station. There also exist the
ruins of a castle built by Hidesato
about 900 years ago.
[From Sano an excursion may
be made to the very curious
limestone caverns of Izuru,
where a temple dedicated to
Kwannon was founded by Sho-
d5 Shoniu in the 8th centuiy.
Caves of Izuru, Aka<ji-san,
151
In these caves the saint is
fabled to have taken up his
^bode, and passed three years
in prayer and meditation. They
Are about 6 ri distant from
Sano on a mountain route to
Nikko. Jinrikishas are prac-
ticable most of the way to the
caves. From the vill. of IzurUj
it is a walk of 2 did up a ravine
to the cave called Daishi no
Twayat the mouth of which
is high up amongst the precipi-
tous rocks, and is only to be
reached by ladders. Further on
is the cave sacred to Kwannon,
reached by climbing over steep
rocks with the assistance of
chains, and then by ladders up
to a platform on which stand
£ome images of Daikoku and
Shodo Shonin. The guide
lights candles and shows the
way into the cave, which con-
tains a large stalactite, sup-
posed to resemble a back view
of the body of Kwannon. The
cave is evidently much deeper,
but pilgrims do not usually go
further in. Close by is a
hollow in the rock, with two
issues. The guide climbs up
a ladder to the upper hole, gets
inside, and after a minute or
two appears, head first, out of
the lower. Half a chd further
i^ another cave, named after
the god Dainichi Nyorai, and
having two branches, — one
about 50 yds. deep, the other
penetrating an unknown dis-
tance into the mountain.
The silk goods produced at Sano,
although similar in kind to those of
Ashikaga, are much finer in quality.
Ash&agst (Innsy Hatsugai, Saga-
mi-ro) is a great centre of the trade
in native cotton goods, mostly woven
however from foreign yarns.
Afihikaga is celebrated for its Academy
•*)£ Chinese learning {Athikaga GakkO), the
foundation, of which institution is tradi-
tionally ascribed to the eminent scholar
Ono-no-Takamora (A.D. 801— a52). It
reached the zenith of its prosperity in the
time of the ShOgons of the Ashikaga
dynasty, its last great benefactor being'
Uesngi Norizane wno died in 1573. Thi»
Academy possessed a magnificent library
of Chinese works, and was the chief centre
of Chinese erudition and of the worship of
Confucius, until the establishment of the
Seido at Yedo. Most of the 1x)oks are
now dispersed, but the image of Confucius
still attracts visitors.
Kiryu (InnSj Yamane, Hayashi-
ya) also is a large town, about 2 ri
from its railway station. The chief
products are crape, gauze, and a
white silk called kabiUai which re-
sembles tafEety.
Ouiaina (Iww, Tsuru-ya) is situat-
ed near the foot of Akagi-san. Tho
picturesque road from here to the
copper mines of Ashio by tho
valley of the Watarase-gawa is
described in Route 17. Omama
itself is a long straggling town, and,
like the other places on this railway
route, of little general interest, being
entirely devoted to sericulture.
[The extinct volcano of Akagi-
Siin may be ascended from the
vill. of Ogo, 3 ri 9 did from
Omama, whence the climb will
take from 3^ to 4 hrs. About
3 hrs. from Ogo we reach a
grassy knoll where the path
divides, the 1. branch going to
one of the peaks of Akagi known
as Nabewari, the other leading
to a lake. The peak rising
just above this grassy knoll is
Arayama, 4,830 ft. in height,
which can be ascended in about
f hr. The summit commands a
grand panorama of mountains :
—Fuji S. S. W., Kaigane-san
(part of the Koshu Shirane-san)
S. W., the numerous peaks of
Yatsu-ga-take with Tateshina
nearly W. S. W., Asama-yama
due W., and the Kusatsu Shi-
rane about W. N. W. Nearly
due N. rises Hodaka-san, one of
the loftiest peaks in Kotsuke,
easily recognised by its double
top. The descent from Ara-
yama on the N. side is very
steep, but not dangerous, and
the path is well-marked. From
the knoll above referred to»
152
Eoiite 16. — XiJcko and Neifjhhourhood,
the main path skirts the E.
base of Arayama, and, travers-
ing a grassy moorland basin,
crosses a col to the temple
(Daido) on the margin of the
lake. About 2,000 yds. to the
r. of the path is a tarn, called
Koiinma, the level of which
must be from 250 to 300 ft.
higher than that of the larger
lake.]
Maeba^lii, see p. 140.
EOUTE 16.
' l^iKKo AND Neighbourhood.
1. GENERAL INFORMATION. 2. CHIEF
OBJECTS OF INTEREST. MAUSOLEA
OP lEYASU AND lEMITSU. 3. OB-
JECTS OF MINOR INTEREST. 4.
"WALKS IN THE NEIGHBOURHOOD.
6. KEGON-NO-TAKI, CHUZENJI,.NAN-
TAI-ZAN, ^UMOTO. 6. ASCENT OF
O-MANAGO AND NANTAI-ZAN FROM
YUMOTO.
1. — General Information.
Properly speaking, Nikko is the
name, not of any single place, but of
a whole mountainous district lying
about 100 miles to the N. of Tokyo.
Nevertheless, when people speak of
going to Nikko, they generally mean
going to the village of Hachi-ishif
close to which are the celebrated
Mausolea of loyasu and lemitsu,
the 1st and 3rd Shoguns of the
Tokugawa dynasty. Lying 2,000 ft.
above the sea, Nikko is a delightful
summer resort, for which reason
many foreign residents of Tokyo
have villas there, or else at Chuzenji
(4,375 fb.) 7^ m. further on. The
only drawback to the climate is
the frequent rain. There is probably
no other place in Japan which
combines in so eminent a degree
the beauties of art and the beauties
of nature. Within a radius of 15-
m. there are no less than twenty -five
or thirty pretty cascades. Nikko
is noted, among other things, for
the glorious tints of its autximn
foliage.
Nikko is reached in 5 hrs. from
Tokyo by the Northern Railway,.
changing carriages at Utsunonaiya^
where the Nikko branch diverges.
Nikko Branch Line.
o
o
Eh.
65im.
79J
86f
90f
Names
.of
Stations.
TOKYO (Ueno).
UTSUNOMIYA.
Top^mi.
Kanuma.
Fub»<8a.mi,
Imnichi.
NIKKO (Hachi.
ishi).
Remarks.
See Nortli-
ern Bail-
way, Route
.24.
For a considerable distance, the
railway runs close to the grand
avenue of cryptomerias lining the
ancient highway. As the traveller
approaches Imaichi, he will notice
on the 1. a second avenue of cryp-
tomerias converging towards the rail-
way line. Thisistho BeilieishiKaidd,
so called because in old days the
Reiheishij or Envoy of the Mikado,,
used to travel along it, bearing gifts
from his Imperial master to be
offered at the Mausoleum of leyasu.
The village oUNikko being a very
long one, and the railway only
touching its lower end, there re-
mains a stretch of about 2 m. to
be done by jini^ikisha from the
station to the hotel.
Hotels. — Nikko Hotel (foreign), in
Irimachi beyond the village ; Koni-
shi-ya, Aizu-ya, in the vill. A second
large hotel in foreign style is being
built near the upper end of the
village.
Guides are in attendance at the
Hotels, and will arrange for the pur-
chase of tickets of admittance to
the Mausolea. Additional small
History.
nz
charges are made at various points
"Within the buildings.
Means of conveyance. — Chairs,
' liagoSy or pack-horses can be taken
i' to such places as are not accessible
by jinrikisha. There is a fixed
, scale of charges.
Nikko produces skins, and various
pretty articles made of a black
'iossil wood brought from Sendai in
fethe north.
: History, — The range of mountains
Known as Nikko-zan lies on the N.W.
■Ijoundary of the province of Shimotsuke.
JThe orijfinal name was Fiita-am-i/ama,
firhich, when written with Cliinese ideo-
fraphs, may also be pronounced Ni-k/j-zan.
_ ccording to the popular account, the
ime was derived from periodical hurri-
ines in spring and autumn, which issued
)m a great cavern on Nantai-zan, the
mntain to the N. B. of ChUzenji. In
LD. 820 Kobo Daishi visited the spot,
ide a road to the neighbourhood of
cavern, and changed the name of
range to Nikko-zan, or 'Mountains
it the Sun's Brightness,* from which
noment the storms ceased to devastate
tie country. Up to the end of the 17th
fcntury, a family of Shinto priests named
fno used to visit the cavern twice
EiTly to perform certain exorcisms, the
ret of which hadbeen imparted to
ir ancestor by Kobo Daishi. A cavern
Ituated high up on the face of an in-
issible cliff, just beyond the hamlet of
a-gaeshi on the way to Chtlzenji, is
ited out as the cave in question,
sther explanation of the name Futa*
yama, is that it means * The Two
"ing Mountains,' in allusion to the
volcanoes which form part of it,
., Nantai-zan and Shirane-san he-
ld Yumoto. But though the latter
iks out at frequent intervals, no erup-
ts nave taken place from Nantai-zan
khin memory of man.
Vtom the earliest ages of which any
Etworthy record remains, a Shinto
pie existed at Nikko, ^vhich was af ter-
ia removed to Utsunomiya. In the
•it 767, the first Buddhist temple was
•cted by the saint Shodo Shonin. Later
^ in the beginning of the 9th century, Ko-
iDaishi, and in the middle of the same
ptary the abbot Jigaku Daishi, added
rjkhe holy places. The following account
■8bed5 Shonin is summarised from a
eoir written by his disciples the year
his death. He was born at Takaoka
Wt the K. boundary of Shiraoi.sUke,
the year 735. His parents had long
Ited to have a son, and at l'«st their
^ was granted by the Thousand-
pded Kwannon of the Izuru caves, to
lOm they had prayed for offspring.
tioaa portents accompanied his birth :
loud thunder was heard, a miraculous
cloud hung over the cottage, flowers fell
from heaven into the courtyard, and a
strange perfume filled the air. From hia
earliest years the saint was devoted to
the worship of the gods, and amused him-
self by raising toy pagodas and shrines of
earth and stones, which gained for him
the nickname of * temple builder ' among-
his companions. In his twentieth year ho
secretly quitted his father's house, and.
took up his abode in the cave of the
Thousand-Handed Kwannon at Izuru.
After passing three years in prayer and
meditation, he dreamt in mid-winter of a,
great mountain N. of Iziiru, on the top of
which lay a sword more than 3 ft. in.
length. On awaking, he left the cave,
and endeavoured to make his way in the
direction indicated ; but the deep snow^
opposed difficulties almost insurmount-
able. Vowing to sacrifice his life rather
than abandon the enterprise, he per-
severed, and at last reached a point fromt
which he beheld the object of his search.
Ascending to the top of the mountain, he
gave himself up to austere discipline,
living on fruits which were brought to
him by a supernatural being. After thus
passing three more years, he returned ta
Izuru, and in 763 visited the temple of
Yakushiji, not far from Ishibashi on the
Osha Kaido, where meeting some Chinese
priests, he was admitted by them as fv
novice. He remained in the monastery
for five years, and then returned to
the mountain now called Kobu-ga-
hara. From its summit he beheld, on.
the range to the N., four miraculous
clouds of different colours rising straight
up into the sky, and he at once set off
to reach them, carrying his holy books
and images in a bundle on his back.
On reaching the spot whence the clouds
had seemed to ascend, he found his ad-
vance barred by a broad river, which
poured its torrent over huge rocks and
looked utterly impassable. The saint fell
upon his. knees and prayed, whereupon
there appeared on the (^posite bank dr
divine Ijeing of colossal size, dressed in
blue and black robes, and having a string
of skulls hung round his neck. This lieing-
cried out that he would help him to pass
the stream, as he had once helped the
Chinese pilgrim Hsiian Chuans? across the
River of Flowing Sand. With this pro-
mise, he flung across the river two gi-een
and blue snakes which he held in his
right hand, and in an instant a long bridge
was seen to span the waters, like a rain-
bow floating among the hills; but when the
saint crossed it and reached the northern
bank, both the god and the snake-bridge
suddenly vanished. Having thus attained
the object of his desires, Sho.lo Sho-
nin built himself a hut wherein to prac-
tise his religious exercises. One night a.
man appeared to him in a vision, and told
him that the hill rising to the north was
called ' the Mount of the Four Gods,' and
■
154
Boute 16. — NiJcJcd and XeighbonrJiood,
was inhabited by the Azure Dragon, the
"Vermilion Bird, the WTaite Tigrer, and the
Sombre Warrior, who respectively occupied
its K., S., W. and N. peaks. He climbed
the hill, and found that he had anived at
the goal of his journey; for there were
the four clouds which he had originally
set out to seek, rising up- around him.
He proceeded accordingly to build a
fihriue, which he named the Monastery of
the Four Dragons [Shi-hon-ryU-ji). In
the year 767 he resolved to ascend the
highest peak of the group, and after duly
Kreparing himself by religious exercises,
e set out upon this new enteqirise. After
ascending for a distance of over 40 ri
(probably the ancient ri, of which 4=1
mile), he came to a great lake {Chuzenji)
on the flank of the mountain (Nanfai-
xan); but in spite of his prayers found it
impossible to proceed any further, on
account of the deep snow and the ter-
rific peals of thunder which roared
about the mountain top. He therefore
retraced his steps to Nikko, where
l*e spent fourteen years in fitting him-
self, by the repetition of countless
prayers and the performance of penances,
for the task which he was unwilling to
abandon. In 781 he renewed the attempt
■unauccessfully, but in the following year
lie finally reached the summit, accom-
panied by some of his disciples. It
seemed to him a region such as gods and
other supernatural beings would naturally
choose for their residence, and he there-
fore erected a Buddhist temple called
Chtlzenji, in which he placed a life-size
image of the Thousand-Handed Kwan-
non, and close by it a Shinto temple in
honour of the Gongen of Nikko. He also
built a shrine to the * Great King of the
Deep Sand" {Jinja Bai-o) at the point
-where he had crossed the stream. Shodo
Shonin died in 817 in the odour of
sanctity. Mangicanji is the modem name
of the monastery founded by him at
IJikko.
In A.D. 161R, w^hen Jigea Daishi
"was abbot, the second Shogun of the
Tokugawa dynasty, acting on the dying
injunctions of his father leyasu, sent two
liigh officials to Nikko to choose a resting-
place for his father's body, which had
been temporarily interred at Kuno-zan, a
Tjeautiful spot near Shizuoka on the T6-
]{aido. They selected a site on a hill
called Hotoke-iwa, and the mausoleum
was commenced in December of the same
year. The mortuary chapel and some of
the surrounding edifices were completed
in the spring of the succeeding year, and
on the 20th April the procession bearing
the corpse started from Kuno-zan, reach-
ing Nikko on the 8th May. The coffin
w^as deposited in the tomb, with im-
pressive Buddhist services in which
tx>th the living Shogun and an envoy
from the Mikado took part. In the year
1614 Jig^en Daishi died. The next abbot
was a court noble, the next to him was
a son of the Emperor Go-Mizuno-o, since"
whifeh time down to the revolution of 1 868
the abbot of Nikko was always a prince
of the Imperial blood. Heiisually resided
in Yedo, and visited Nikko three times
annually. In 1808 the prince-abbot was-
carried off to the north, and proclaimed
Mikado by the remnants of the Tokugawa
party. After the capture of the castle of
Wakamatsti in Aizu in November of the
same year, he surrendered to the Imperial
forces, and, having been subseqently re-
admitted to Imperial favour, was sent to
Germany to study. His present title is
Prince Kita Shirakawa.— The great annual
festival is held on the 1st and 2nd June.
2. — Chief Objects op Interest.
On issuing from the upper end of
the village, one of the firsb objects
that attract attention is the Mi
Hashiy a Ked Bridge spanning the
Daiyagawa, about 40 ft. wide between
the stone walls which here confine its.
course. The bridge is supported on
stone piers of great solidity, fixed into-
the rocks between which the stream
flows, and its colour forms a striking
contrast to the deep green of the
cryptomerias on the opposite bank.
It was formerly closed to all per-
sons except the Shoguns, save twice
a year when it was opened to pil-
grims. It stands on the spot where,,
according to the legend above related,.
Shodo Shonin crossed the river.
The present structure, which is 84 ft.
long and 18 ft. wide, was built in
1638, and is said not to have re-
quired any repairs of importance
since that time. At each end there
are gates which are kept constantly
closed. Forty yards or so lower
down the stream, is the so-called
* temporary bridge,' which is open
to ordinary mortals. Crossing this
and turning to the 1., the visitor
ascends the Nagasaka through a
grove of cryptomerias, and reaches
Mangivanji, a monastery occupy-
ing the site of the former Hmnhdy or
Abbot's residence, a magnificent
building destroyed by fire in 1871.
On the r. is a monastery called Jodo-
in. The road to be followed passes
along the S. wall of the Mangwan-
ji enclosure, and up its W. side.
In the N. part of this enclosure
Mansolewn of ley am*
155
stands the Sambutsu-dd, or Hall
of the Three Buddhas, viz., the
Thousand-Handed Kwannon, the
Horse-Headed Kwannon, and Amida
Nyorai ; with them is a wooden
statue of Shodo Shonin. Close by
is a pillar called the Sdrintdt
erected in 1643, and consisting of a
cylindrical copper column 42 ft.
high, of a black colour, supported
by horizontal bars crossing through
its centre, which rest on shorter
columns of the same material. The
top is adorned with a series of six
cups shaped like lotus-flowers, from
the petals of which depend small
bells. Just beneath the lowest of
these cups are four small medal-
lions, with the Tokugawa crest of
three Asarum leaves.
Mansolenm of leyasii. As-
cending some brpad steps be-
tween two rows of cryptomerias, we
come to the granite torii presented
by the prince of Chikuzen from his
own quarries in the year 1618. Its
total height is 27 ft. 6 in., and the
diameter of the columns is 3 ft. 6
in. The inscription on the columns
merely records the fact of their
presentation and the name of the
donor. On the 1. is a five-storied
pagoda of graceful form, painted in
harmonious colours. It rises to a
height of 104 ft., and the roofs
measure 18 ft. on each side. This
monument was the offering in 1650
of Sakai Wakasa-no-Kami, one of
the chief supporters of the Toku-
gawa family. Bound the lower
storey are life-like painted carvings
of the twelve signs of the zodiac.
From the toriif a pavement leads to
the bottom of the steps crowned by
the Ni-o-maii, or Gate of the Two
Kings. The two gigantic figures of
these gods, which formerly occupied
the niches on the outside of this
gate, have been removed, and their
places taken by gilt Ama-imi and
Koma-inu. The carvings adorning
this gateway are extremely varied.
On the tops of the pillars at the four
external angles are tapirs,representa-
tions of which are in China supposed 1
to act as charms against pestilence.
The heads on the central pillars of
the two outer ends of the structure
are lions ; in the niches r. and 1. of
the lion at one end are unicorns,
and in the corresponding niches at
the other end are fabulous beasts
called takicju, which are supposed
to be endowed with the power of
speech, and only to appear in the
world when a virtuous sovereign oc-
cupies the throne. The doorways
are ornamented with elephants*
heads, the first portico has lions
and peonies, and the second tigers.
The interiors of the niches on the
outside of the gateway are de-
corated with tapirs and peonies,
those on the inside niches with
bamboos. The carvings of tigers
under the eaves on the interior side
of the gateway are excellent.
Passing through the gateway, the
visitor finds himself in a courtyard
raised high above the approach, and
enclosed by a timber walLpainted
bright red. The three handsome
buildings arranged in a zigzag are
storehouses, in which various uten-
sils employed in the religious ceremo-
nies performed in honour of leyasu,
pictures, furniture, and other articles
used by him during his life-time,
and many other treasures belonging
to the temple, are deposited. The
third is remarkable for two curious
painted carvings of elephants in
relief in the gable of the nearest
end, which are ascribed to Hidari
Jingoro, the drawings having been
made by the celebrated artist Tan-
yii. It will be noticed that the
joints of the hind-legs are repre-
sented bent in the wrong direction.
On the 1. of the gate stands a
conifer of the species called kdya-
maki, surrounded by a stone railing.
Some say that this is the iden-
tical tree which leyasu was in
the habit of carrying about with
him in his palanquin, when it was
still small enough to be contained in
a flower-pot. Close to this tree is a
stable for the sacred white pony
kept for the use of the god.
156
Route 16, — NikJco and Xelghbourliood,
Over the doors are some cleverly
executed groups of monkeys, seve-
rally represented as closing their
ears and mouth and shading their
eyes with their hands. They are
called san-goku no sarUj * the mon-
keys of the three countries,' viz.
India, China, and Japan.
A very interesting object is the
On Choztiya^ containg a holy-
water cistern made of a solid piece
of granite, and protected by a roof
supported on twelve square pillars
of the same stone. It was erected
in 1618. The pediment of the roof
contains a pair of winged dra-
gons, carved in wood and painted.
The beautifully decorated build-
ing beyond the holy-water basin is
called the Kyozoj and is the depo-
sitory of a complete collection of
the Buddhist scriptures, contained
in a fine revolving octagonal book-
case with red lacquer panels
and gilt pillars. In front stand
figures of Fu Daishi and his
sons. Paintings of angels on a
gilt ground occupy the clerestory of
the interior. In the ^centre of the
court stands a fine bronze torii, with
the Tokugawa crest in gold on the
tops of the pillars and on the tie-
beam.
A flight of steps gives access to
another court, along the front of
which runs a stone balustrade.
Just inside are two stone lions in
the act of leaping down, presented
by lemitsu. On the r. stand a bell-
tower, a bronze candelabrum pre-
sented by the King of Loochoo,
and a bell given by the King of
Korea, called the ' Moth-eaten Bell,'
because of there being a hole in the
top just under the ring by which it
is suspended. On the 1. stand a
bronze lantern from Korea, a can-
delabrum from Holland, a drum-
tower, no unworthy companion to
the bell-tower opposite, and behind
these again a temple originally
dedicated to the Buddhist god Yaku-
shi Nyorai. (Be it remarked that
Holland, Korea, and Loochoo were
considered to be Japan's three
vassal States.) The groups of
carved birds adorning the temple
of Yakushi are excellently done.
The lantern is a fine and solid
piece of workmanship; but its
style and construction indicate
that it does not owe its origin
to Korea. The two candelabra
and the lantern, as well as the
bronze candle-brackets fixed upon
the interior wall of the court, r. and
1. of the steps, probably came from
Europe through Dutch or Portu-
guese traders. Two iron standard
lanterns on the r. of the steps, pre-
sented by Date Masamune, Prince
of Sendai, and the same number ou
the 1. given by the prince of Satsu-
ma, merit attention. They are
dated 1641. The total number of
lanterns contributed by various Dai-
myos is one hundred and eighteen.
We next ascend a flight of steps
to the platform on which stands the
exquisitel}'^ beautiful gate called Fo-
inei-mcni. The columns supporting it
are carved with a minute geometri-
cal pattern, and painted white. The
pillar next beyond has the pattern
carved upside down, which was
done purposely, lest the flawless
perfection of the whole structure
should bring misfortune on the
House of Tokugawa by exciting the
jealousy of Heaven. It is called the
Ma-yoke no Hashira, or Evil- A vert-
ing Pillar. The side niches are lined
with a pattern of graceful arabesques
founded upon the peony; those on
the outside contain the images called
Sadaijin and Udaijin, armed with
bows and carrying quivers full of
arrows at their backs ; the inner
niches have Ama-inu and Koma-
inu. The capitals of the columns
are formed of unicorns' heads.
The architrave of the second storey
is adorned with white dragons*
heads where the cross-beams inter-
sect, and in the centre of each side
and end is a magnificently involved
dragon with golden claws. Above
the architrave of the lower storey,
projects a balcony which runs all
round the building. The railing is
Mausoleum of leyatu.
157
formed of children at play and
other subjects. Below again are
groups of Chinese sages and im-
mortals. The roof is supported
by gilt dragons' heads with gaping
crimson throats, and from the top
a demon looks down. The Indian-
ink drawings of dragons on the
ceilings of the two porticos are by
Kano Motonobu. R. and 1. extends
a long cloister, the outer walls of
which are decorated with carvings
of trees, birds, and flowers, coloured
&fter nature, fifteen compartments
on the r. and eight on the 1.
Passing through the gate, we
«nter a second court, enclosed on
three sides by the above-mentioned
cloister. In this the Buddhist
priests used to repeat 'their prayers
«,t the two great annual festivals.
On the fourth side, is a high stone
wall built against the face of the
hill. Of the two buildings on the
T., one contains a stage for the per-
formance of the sacred kagura
•dances, and in the other, called
Gotna-ddy was an altar for burning
the fragrant cedar while prayers
were recited. On the 1. is a build-
ing containing the cars carried in
procession on the 1st June, when
the deified spirits of leyasu, Hide-
yoshi, and Yoritomo are supposed
to occupy them. In the midst
stands the enclosure surrounded by
the tamagaJcij or fence, containing
the haidefif or oratory and the hon-
den, or chapel. The tainagaki forms
a quadrangle each side of which is
50 yds. long, and is constructed
of gilt trellis with borders of
coloured geometrical decorations.
Above and beneath these again are
carvings of birds in groups, about 8
in. high and 6 ft. long, with back-
grounds of grass, carved in relief
and gilt. The gate, called kara-
ntOTij through which this enclosure
is entered, is composed of Chinese
woods inlaid with great skill. The
folding-doors of the oratory are
lavishly decorated with arabesques
•of peonies in gilt relief. Over the
4oor and windows of the front.
are nine compartments filled with,
birds carved in relief, four on each
side of the building ; and there are
four more at the back on each side
of the corridor leading to the chapel.
The interior is a large matted room,
42 ft. long by 27 ft. deep, with an ante-
chamber at each end. That on the
r., which w^as intended for the Sho-
gun, contains pictures of unicorns
on a gold ground, and four carved
oak panels of phoenixes which at
first sight seem to be in low relief ;
but closer examination shows that
the figures are formed of various
woods glued on to the surface of the
panel. The rear compartment of
the ceiling is of carved wood, with
the Tokugawa crest in the centre sur-
rounded by phoenixes and crysan-
themums. The opposite ante-cham-
ber has the same number of panels,
the subjects of which are eagles very
spiritedly executed, and a carved
and painted ceiling with an angel
surrounded by chrysanthemums.
The gold paper gohei at the back
of the oratory, and a circular
mirror are the only ornaments
left, the Buddhist paraphernalia of
bells, gongs, prayer-books, and so
forth, having been removed when.
the Shinto form of worship was
introduced. Two wide steps at
the back lead down into the Stone
Chamber, so called because paved
with stone under the matted wooden
floor. The ceiling consists of
square panels, with gold dragons on.
a blue ground. Beyond are the gilt
doors of the chapel, which is divided
into four apartments not accessible
to visitors. The first, called the
HeideUy where the offerings are pre-
sented, is a beautifully decorated
chamber having a coffered ceiling
with phoenixes diversely designed,
and carved beams and pillars of
plain wood. In it stand gilt and
silken gohei presented by H.I.M.
the Emperor.
To reach the Tortiby we issue
again from the Kara-mon, and
pass between the Gcnna-db and
Kagura-do to a door in the E»
158
Boute 16, — Nikko and NeighbourJiood.
side of the gallery. Over this door
is a carving called the nemuri no
nekoy or * sleeping cat,' one of Hidari
Jingoro's most famous works. From
this a moss-grown stone gallery and
several steep flights, of about two
hundred steps altogether, lead to
the tomb on the hill behind. After
passing through the torii at the top
of the last flight, we reach another
oratory used only when that below
is undergoing repairs. The tomb,
shaped like a small pagoda, is a
single bronze casting of a light
colour, produced, it is said, by the
admixture of gold. In front stands
a low stone table, bearing an im-
mense bronze stork with a brass
candle in its mouth, an incense-
l)urner of bronze, and a vase with
artificial lotus-flowers and leaves in
brass. The whole is surrounded by
a stone Wall surmounted by a balus-
trade, the entrance being through a
bronze gate not open to the public,
the roof of which, as well as the gate
itself, is a solid casting. Before it
sit bronze Koma-inu and Ama-inu.
On leaving the Mausoleum of
leyasu, the guide will turn to the r.
at the bottom of the steps, and pass
along the avenue under the wall to
the open space through the toriiy
Tvhere stands r. the Shinto temple
of FtUa-ara no Jinja, dedicated to
the god Onamuji.
When Shodo Shoninin A.D. 782 reached
the top of Nantai-zan, the tutelary-
deities of the region appeared to him, and.
promised to watch over the welfare of
human beings and the progress of
Buddhism, These were the god Onamuji,
the goddess Tagori-hime his wife, and
their son Ajisuki-taka-hikone. Japan is
believed to have been saved on many-
occasions from the perils of civil war and
invasion by the intervention of these
divine beings, who are styled the Three
Original Gongen of Nikko; and local tradi-
tion says that it was owing to the efficacy
of the prayers here offered, that the
Mongol invaders in the second half of the
13th century were repulsed with such
terrible loss.
In one comer of the chapel en-
closure stands a bronze lantern
called the Bakemono Tdrd, presented
in 1292, which is said to have for-
merly had the power of taking the>
form of a demon, and annoying tha
inhabitants of the locality on dark
nights, until a courageous man
attacked it, and with his sword gav^
it a wound which is still visible oa
the cap.
Turning to the 1. and descending,
we perceive two red lacquered
buildings, standing, together and
connected by a covered gallery.
The former is dedicated to Kishl
Bojin and Fugen Bosatsu, the
latter to Amida. Here are pre-
served the bones of Yoritomo, which
were discovered near the site of the
Ni-o-mon gate of leyasu's mauso-
leum about the year 1617. Bound
the sides of the interior are ranged
a number of Buddhist images.
Mansolenm of leiiiitsn. Turp^
ing to the r. before reaching the
red-lacquered buildings just men-
tioned, we approach the gate of the
mausoleum of lemitsu. This is a
Ni-o-mon, the side niches of which
are occupied by a gigantic pair of
wooden figures. In the niches
on the inner side of the gateway,
stand the Ni-6 which once adorned
the gate of leyasu' s mausoleum.
Under a beautiful shed r. on enter-
ing the court, stands a massive
stone water-basin. A flight of steps
leads to the gate called Niten-mo7i,
The niches on the side contain , a
red statue of Bishamon on the 1.,
and on the r. a green one of Ida-Ten
(Sanskrit, VSda Baja)^ a mytholo-
gical protector of Buddhism. The
niches on the inside are occupied
by the Gods of Wind and Thunder.
Three more flights conduct us to the
YasJia-mmif or Demon Gate, whose ,
niches contain the Shi Tennd. '
Turning round just inside the gate,
we have before us an exquisite view
of foliage. Directly opposite is the
Hotoke-iwaj completely clad up to
the summit with trees of various
tints. Of the mausoleum which
stands on it, only a narrow piece can
be seen between the avenue of
cryptomerias lining the last flight
of steps ascended. This vignette is
Mausoleum of lemitsii.
15^
the gem of Nikko. The oratory and
chapel are less magnificent than
those of leyasu. The former is
crowded with the insignia of Bud-
dhism. Two largo horn lanterns
pointed out as Korean are evidently
Dutch. The tomb is reached by
flights of steps up the side bf the
hill on the r. of the chapel. It is
of bronze, and in the same style as
that of leyasu, but of a darker hue.
The gates in front are of bronze,
and are covered with large Sanskrit
characters in shining brass.
After descending a flight of steps,
and passing under the gallery con-
necting the the temples of Kishi Bo-
jin and Amida, we come to the
resting-place of Jigen Daishi, other-
wise called Tenkai Daisojo, arch-
bishop of Isikko at the time of le-
yasu's interment. The chapel con-
tains some interesting paintings,
and is finely decorated on the
outside. Two white phoenixes
above the entrance are particularly
worthy of notice. The tomb
behind is constructed of stone,
and consists of a cube on which
rests a globe surmounted by a
pyramidal top, with the comers
turned up, standing altogether
about 12 ft. high. Six stone effigies
of Buddhist gods life-size stai\d in
rows, three on either side. Before
quitting this spot, it is worth while
ascending a fews steps on the 1.,
which lead to the tombs of the
prince-abbots. They are thirteen
in number, arranged round three
sides of a square, and their
mean appearance contrasts curiously
with the splendour of the tombs of
leyasu and lemitsu. In no gor-
geous chapel are litanies chanted
to their memory; all we see is a
rough shed supported on four wooden
posts.
" No visitor should fail to see a cer-
tain chamber at Nikko if he desires
to carry away a clear idea of the
magnificent care lavished by the
men of old on the mausolea of their
ancestors. It is a chamber in the
iron store-room attached to the
Tama-ya of the third Shogun, le-
mitsu, and on its walls are hung
about twenty of the finest examj)les
of decorative painting that could be
achieved by the Japanese artists of
the seventeenth century, working
without the smallest concern for
time and expense. The subjects
depicted are all Buddhistic. Gold
is profusely used, and used with a
firmness, directness and fineness of
stroke that are absolutely mar-
vellous. The colours are wonder-
fully rich and mellow ; indeed, the
best of the pictures seem to radiate
a perfect glow of brilliancy, without,^
however, the slightest approach to*
garishness or obtrusiveness. The
original silk on which the picture is
painted is not suffered to appear at
all, being completely covered with
microscopic illumination, or beauti-
fully designed brocades in glorious
colours. The borders, which in or-
dinary pictures cofisist of rich fabrics,
are here replaced by hand-painting
inconceivably accurate and minute.
The artist, in fact, took a single piece
of seamless silk, specially - woven
for the purpose, perhaps 8 feet long
and 4 wide, and covered the entire
surface with illuminated painting,,
fi'om the elaborate border of scrolls
and diapers to the central deity
clothed in raiment of gold cloth,,
every line and mesh of which is
faithfully reproduced. To attempt
to describe such works verbally is
entirely futile. In the same store-
room are many other objects of
beauty and interest ; for example, a
number of illuminated scrolls en-
closed in a lacquer case that is
itself a marvel ; some boxes of the
most exquisite filigree metal-work ;
the norimono in which the mortuary
tablet of lemitsu was carried to-
the shrine; and so forth. The
conclusion at which every one
visiting this store-room must inevi-
tably arrive is that few of the much-
vaunted illuminated missals of
mediaeval Europe will endure com-
parison for a moment with the
similar work of contemporaneous
160
Route 16. — Xikho and Neighbourhood,
Japanese artists. Special steps
must be taken to gain access to the
store-room where these» treasures
Are preserved The best
way to procure admission to all the
•objects of interest is to become a
member of the Hoko-kwai, or Nikko
Preservation Society, by payment
•of a subscription of $5." — Japan
Mail.
-3. — Objects op Minor Interest.
Besides the mausolea of the
Sh5guns, there are various objects
At Nikko having a lesser degree
of interest. All are within a
short distance of the great temples.
One of these is the Hmigu, a tem-
ple dedicated to the Shinto god Aji-
suki-taka-hikone,. whose name im-
plies that he was mighty with the
spade. This temple was built by Sho-
do Shonin in A.D. 808, close to the
Buddhist monastery which he had
founded. It is reached by ascending
the stone steps that face the end
•of the bridge, and then turning to
the right. Near the Hongu stands
the San^io-iniya, a small red chapel
«urrounded by a stone balustrade.
It is believed that women may
obtain safe delivery by here offering
up pieces of wood, such as are used
in the Japanese game of chess, and
correspond to our rook. Close
hj is the Kaisan-ddy a red lac-
quered building 36 ft. square, dedi-
cated to Shodo Shonin, the 'pioneer
of the mountain,* as the name
implies. Peeping through the grat-
ing which forms the window on the
E. side, we see an image of Jizo
occupying a lofty position, with
the eflSgy of the saint below, and
those of ton disciples ranged r. and
1. Behind are the tombs of the saint
4ind three of his disciples. At the
base of the rugged and precipitous
rock at the back of the Kaisan-dO are
some rough Buddhist images, from
which the hill takes its name of Hoto-
ke-iwa. Further on we pass a small
shrine dedicated to Tenjin. A large
stone close to the path on the r.,
just beyond this, is called the Te-
kakc-ishiy or Hand-touched Stone,
said to have been sanctified by
the imposition of Kobo Daishi's
hands. Fragments of it are valued
as a protection against noxious in-
fluences. Opposite stand a row of
stone images of Emma-0, the Begent
of Hell. Further on is a stone
bearing a half-effaced inscription,
erected over the spot where lies the
horse which carried leyasu at the
decisive battle of Seki-ga-hara, in
the year IGOO. After the death of
the master whom he had borne to
victory, the horse was set free in
the mountains of Nikko, and died
in 1630. The next object to bo
noticed is an immense cryptomeria,
7 ft. in diameter a little above the
base, called the li-viori no sngi, from
the supposed resemblance to a heap
of boiled rice which its pendent
branches present. The tree is said
to have been planted by a deputa-
tion representing 800 Buddhist nuns
of the province of Wakasa. Close
to the path on the 1., as we turn a
corner, is the Somen tw takiy or
Vermicelli Cascade, so called from
a fancied likeness to a bowl of
that food. Another and prettier
name given to it is Shira-ito, * White
Thread.*
4. — Walks in the Neighboubhood.
1. Kwannon-yniim is the name
of the bluff behind the upper end
of the village. A fine view of the
river and surrounding country ia
obtained from the tea-sheds over-
looking the street.
2. Kainnian-ga-fnc1ii. About 20
min. walk from the bridge, along
the course of the Daiyagawa, is a
deep pool called Kamman-ga-fuchi.
A liut has been erected here close
to the boiling eddies, opposite to a
precipitous rock on which is en-
graved the Sanskrit word Hdnwmm,
It seems impossible that any one
should have been able to get across
to perform the work, and so it ig
ascribed to Kobo Daishi, who ac-
complished the feat by • throwing
Kamnian-ga-fucJii, * Waterfalls,
161
his pen at the rock. But there is
authority for attributiug it to a
disciple of Jigen Daishi, only two
centuries ago. On the bank of the
river stand a large number of images
of Amida ranged in a long row. It
is believed that they always count
up differently however often the
attempt be made, — a belief bearing
a curious resemblance to the super-
stition which prevailed regarding
the Druidical stones in various
parts of England. It was supposed
that no two persons could number
the stones alike, and that nobody
could ever find a second counting
confirm the first. The largest of
these images was some years ago
washed down the river by a flood
as far as Imaichi, arriving there in
perfect safety. It now stands at the
E. end of that town, wit<h its face
towards Nikko.
3. Hontd Somen-ga-taki, or the
Real Vermicelli Cascade, so called
to distinguish it from the one men-
tioned on p. 160, is about ^ hr. walk
up the vaUey nearest to Kamman-
ga-fuchi. It consists of a" series of
three cascades, not large, but very
pretty after rain. As we approach
the first fall on going up the valley,
a small trickle of water coming over
the face of the hill is perceived on
the 1. This streamlet often becomes
a clear fall of about 40 ft.
4. Dainichi-do, just beyond Kam-
man-ga-fuchi .on the opposite side
of the river, merits a visit for the
sake of its prettily arranged garden.
The water rising from a spring
in one of the artificial ponds is
deliciously cool, and is considered
the purest in the neighbourhood of
Kikko.
6. Toyania. The nearest emi-
nence from which an extensive
view of the plain can be obtained is
Toyama, a hill rising up somewhat
in the form of a huge animal cou-
chant on the 1. bank of the Inari-
kawa, which flows down by the
nde of the temples. From the
bridge to the top isf hr. climb. The
last bit of the ascent is steep, but-
the view is a sufficient reward.
The large mountain on the extreme^
1. is Keicho-zan, also called Taka-
hara-yama. Right opposite is the
long ridge of Haguro-yama. Tsuku-
ba's double peak is unmistakable^
Turning round we see the whole of
the magnificent range formed by
Nantai-zan, 0-Manago, Ko-Manago^
Nyoho-zan, and Akanagi.
6. Kirifuri-iio-taki or the Mist-
Falling Cascade. By taking a wide-
sweep round the base of Toyama and
over undulating country to the S.,
this cascade may be reached in 1 J
hr. A tea-house on the hill above
commands a picturesque view of
the fall, and from the top of a knoll
just beyond the tea-house, a grand
view is obtained of the country
towards the E., S., and W. A
steep and very rough path leads -
down to the foot, where the fall is
seen to better advantage. The rare
fern Aspidium triptcron grows by
the way-side; it is also found at
the foot of the E. side of the
Hotoke-iwa.
7. Makiira-no-taI:i, or the Pillow
Cascade. On leaving Kirifuri we-
re trace the path for a few steps, andi
then follow another to the r. for-
about 2 in. This path crosses the
stream above Kirifuri three times,
and then crossing two hills, leads to-
another stream. Here we leave-
the path and plunge into a thicket,
keeping the stream on the r., a
rough climb of 3 or 4 did bringing
us to the ^lakura-no-taki, a fall of
about 60 ft. in height. The best
view is obtained from a point a few
yards up the hill to the 1. The fall
shows very prettily through the trees
as it is approached, and altogether
well repays the toil of reaching
it. As the path is easily mistaken,
it is advisable to procure a guide,
who will also be able to lead one a
different way back to Nikko, instead
of returning via Kirifuri.
8. Jakko. To the site of the-
temple of Jakko and to Nana-taki»
162
Boute 16, — XikJco and Neighhourhood.
(cascade), 'which lies in a recess
bahiad lemitsu's mausoleum at the
base of Nyoho-zan, is a pleasant
walk of 1 lir. from Nikko. The way
lies through the village of Iri-
machi beyond the temples, and
turns o3 at right angles just
before descending the hill. The
temple that stood here was burnt
in 1876, and the splendid avenue of
pines and cryptomerias which
formed the approach has been
ruthlessly cut down. Behind the
site of the temples is a cascade, a
series of falls of about 100 ft. in
height. It goes by various names,
«one being Nana-taki, and must not
be confounded with the other falls of
the same name in the chasm over-
looked by the summit of Nyoho-zan.
9. Jakko Icki-no-toki. Shortly
before reaching the base of the hill
-on which the temple of Jakko stands,
we cross a bridge over a small
stream, where a path leads off r.
■around the base of the hill. Less
than i m. up a beautiful ravine,
lies the waterfall of Ichi-no-taki.
About half way up, the stream is
again crossed, and a few yards fur-
ther we gain the first view of
the fall. The path thence to the
bottom is steep. As the way is very
muddy after rain, and only a log
bridge spans the stream, this ex-
<cursion may sometimes be found
awkward for ladies.
10. The Deer Park (GoRydcht).
About half-way to Jakko from Iri-
machi, a narrow path turns of! r.,
leading up a small valley in which
the Deer Park is situated. Five
min. walk takes one to the keeper's
house, where a permit to enter the
park, obtainable from the local au-
thorities, must be presented. With-
in the precincts of the park are two
pretty cascades.
11. Uraiiii-gra-taki, or the Back
View Cascade, derives its name
from the possibility of passing
behind and under the fall. It lies
on the r., some distance from the
•old Chuzenji road, and beyond the
path to Jq,kk6. Turning to the r.
by a fairly broad path shortly after
crossing an affluent of the Daiya-
gawa, the path rises on to a moor,
and after 1^ hr. walk reaches
several tea-houses by the side of &
stream, whence the remainder of
the way is an easy climb of 6 chd.
The view of the cascade, which is
about 50 ft. high, is at first rather
disappointing, as the spectator
sees it from a level not far below
the point where it shoots out from
the rocks ; but those venturesome
enough to pass behind the fall
and up the ravine on the other
side, will be well repaid for their
trouble and the slight inconvenience
of a wetting from the spray. On
reaching the other side of the fall,
there is a picturesque view of the
rocky basin overhung with trees, of
the cascade, and of the deep pool into
which it tumbles. On the r. and 1.
of the principal fall are two smaller
ones, while above is a shrine
dedicated to Fudo. A walk of 5 or
10 min. beyond Fudo leads to
another basin with a small cascade
falling into it. — Urami may also
be conveniently visited on the way
back from Chiizenji, by taking the
road which branches ofi 1. a little
below Uma-gaeshi, and by turning
to the 1. again at Kiyotaka, where a
very muddy path leads through the
woods for a distance of about 1 ri
to the tea-houses above-mentioned.
12. Jikan-no-taki (cascade).
Crossing the stream by tne side of
the tea-houses below Urami, a
path will be found r. a few steps
beyond. It leads up the hill, mostly
through a wood for a little over 1 ri,
the first part of which is rather
steep. At Jikan there is a pretty
effect of water falling in a dozen
streams over a ledge of rock. The
view from the top of the fall down the
valley is very fine, and the place a
charming one for picnics. About 1
m. below Jikan, and visible from a
small clearing at the edge of the
hill on the way up, is another fall
called Jikan Ni,
Ascent of Nyoho-zan and Nantai-zan,
163
13. Ascent of Nyoho-zan via
Nana-taki, or the Seven Cascades.
This is a whole day's excursion,
and an early start should conse-
quently be made. The ascent of
Nyoh6-zan is the best of all the
mountain climbs near Nikko. With
a good guide, 4^ hrs. will sufl&ce for
the actual ascent, and 2^ for the
descent. Nyoho-zan can be ascended
as late as the middle of November.
The way for pedestrians lies past
the temple of Futa-ara-no-jinja
and a minor shrine called the
Gyoja-do. Here take a narrow
track to the 1. through the wood,
and after f hr. easy walking
with a short climb at the end,
a large stone known as the Sesshd-
seki is reached, which bears an
inscription to notify that killing
game is prohibited on these hills.
(The best way for horses and kagos
leads a short distance over the
Jakko road to a zigzag path clearly
visible on the hill to the r., and
joins the path already mentioned
at the Sesshd-seki.) Right ahead
rises a peak called Akapporiy con-
spicuous by its precipitous face
of red volcanic, strata. The path
continues up the grassy spur in
front. In 1 hr. from the Sesshd-
seki we arrive at a hut called
HappUy and 5 min. later we come to
the edge of a precipice overlooking
a gigantic chasm, apparently the
remains of an ancient crater that
has been broken away by water on
the S.E. side, where the Inari-kawa
has its source. Prom Akanagi-san
an almost unbroken crater wall
extends westward to Akappori.
This secondary crater appears not
to have been very deep, as its pre-
sent floor, out of which descends
one of the seven cascades that
supply the Inari-kawa, is high above
the greater chasm immediately in
front of us, A projecting spur
divides the upper from the lower
crater, and above it on the 1. rises
a lesser peak named Sliaktijo-ga-
take. The falls are viewed from
the edge of the precipice. They
consist of seven cascades, which
seem to issue from the side of the
mountain, and are not remarkable
for either size or beauty ; but the
walk to this point is one of the
most delightful in the neighbour-
hood and affords entrancing views.
The excursion as far as Nana-taki
and back occupies from 5 to 6 hrs.
Nyoho-zan, which may be seen from
the moor, is invisible from this
point. The . path hence winds to
the 1. not far from the edge of the
chasm, at first very steeply, and
then through the wood to the Karar-
sawa hut in about 1^ hr. We are
now at the foot of Nyoho-zan, the
ascent of which will occupy not
more than J hr. The summit is
about 8,130 ft. high. To the N.
it commands an extensive view over
a sea of lower mountains, among
which lie the secluded valleys of
Kuriyama-go ; to the N.E., Nasn-
no-yama is rendered conspicuous by
the smoke rising from its crater,
and further N. is seen Bandai-
san ; to the E. is Takahara-yama,
which also has the appearance of
a volcano. On the immediate W.
of the spectator is Akakura, merely
a continuation of Nyoho-zan, then
Ko-Manago, 0-Manago, and Nantai-
zan. Between Akakura and Ko>
^lanago we look across to Taro-zan.
Akanuma-ga-hara is partly visible,
and beyond it the bare volcanic
summit of Shirane. Further to the
S.W. are seen Asama-yama, Yatsu-
ga-take, and numerous other peaks
probably belonging to the Hida-
Shinshu range. The upper half of
Fuji rises S. over the long horizon-
tal line of the Ghichibu mountains.
Away in the plain to the E. and
S. are perceived the broad, and
deep Kinugawa, stretches of the
Tonegawa, the vill. of Nikko with
the parallel rows of dark trees
marking the main roads, and far
away on the horizon, Tsukuba-san.
14. Ascent of Nnntai-zan viH
Urami. Just beyond the tea-
houses below Urami, the path
descends to the 1., crosses the
164
Eoute 16. — Nikko and Neighbourhood.
etream and turns at once to the r.,
climbing up through a wood, on
emerging from which Nantai-zan,
O-Manago, Nyoho-zan, and Akanagi
jure seen in front. After ascend-
ing a grassy valley for about 20 min.,
a sign-post is reached where a path
to the r. diverges to Nyoho-zan and
.Akanagi, while the 1. branch ascends
a hill and gradually winds to the
T. Entering a wood, it follows
up a deep thickly wooded gully,
and at last reaches a torii in
the middle of the wood occupying
the depression between Nantai-zan
and O-Manago. Here the path
forks, the r. branch passing the spot
from which O-Manago is ascended,
and continuing on towards Yumoto,
vhile the 1. climbs up to the Shizu
■wo Iwaya (5,600 ft.), where the back
ascent of Nantai-zan commences.
Horses may be taken from Nikko to
this place. The time on foot from
I^ikko is 3 hrs. From here to Ghii-
zenji round the base of Nantai-
zan is also a good 8 hrs. walk.
The route for some distance follows
the path to Yumoto, and about 1
ri after crossing the bed of a
stream, diverges to the 1., shortly
afterwards issuing on the open
plain of Akanuma-ga-hara, from
•which moment the path cannot be
jnissed.
5. — Kegon-no-taki, Chuzenji, and
Yumoto.
One of the principal points of
interest near Nikko is the beautiful
lake of Chuzenji. The road is prac-
ticable for jinrikishas, not only to
the vill. of Chuzenji, 3 ri 12 chd
from Nikko, but for 2 ri 27 chd
further on to the hot-springs of
Yumoto. But owing to the steep-
ness of the hill which has to be
passed on the way, ladies and others
unable to walk are recommended
to take chairs or horses. The walk
from Nikko to Chuzenji and back
in one day is a favourite excursion.
Indeed sturdy pedestrians are able,
2>j making an early start, to do the
whole distance to Yumoto and back
within the limits of a day ; but this
is neither advisable nor necessary.
Leaving Nikko, we follow the
Ashio road along the course of the
Daiyagawa as far as Fiitamiya (1^
ri), where the road to Chuzenji
branches off r. through a wood,
still continuing by the river-side.
This river, which issues from Lake
Chuzenji, is for most of the year a
small and quiet stream; but at times-
it becomes a dangerous torrent carry-
ing away embankments and roads.
The ascent is gradual and easy up
to the hamlet of XJma-gaeshi, where
there is a good tea-house. Just
before reaching this hamlet, the
old path from Nikko, still much
traversed by pedestrians, joins the
new road. Beyond Uma-gaeshi
three men should be taken for each
jinrikisha. The road thence for
some distance is cut out of the side
of the overhanging cliffs close by
the brawling stream, and owing te
landslips is difficult to maintain
in order. Formerly the path
climbed along the face of the pre-
cipitous cliff to the r., and was
impassable even for horses ; a later
road can be traced as it ascends,
the ravine and crosses over the
rushing waters of the Daiyagawa
on faggot bridges. The scenery
between Uma-gaeshi and the small
cluster of houses at the foot of
the real ascent, 3 hr. walk, is
wild and picturesque. Leaving the
rugged gorge, a winding path leads
up to a narrow ridge, where a
resting-hut commands a pretty
view of two cascades at the head of
the ravine to the r. From this
point the ascent to the top, which
occupies about f hr., is arduous. At
the charmingly situated tea-house
called Naka no Chaya half-way up,
the coolies usually make a short halt.
On the summit, the road passes
through a wood of pines and
oaks, many of which are covered
with the long trailing moss called
Sartigase {Lycopodium sieboldi), A
path to the 1. leads to a plat*
Kegon-nO'taJd. Chuzenji^
165
form which commands a fine view
of the cascade of
Kegoii-no-taki. The height of
the fall is about 350 ft. In the
earlier part of the year it i^
occasionally almost dry ; but after
the heavy summer rains it shoots
out over the edge of the over-
hanging precipice in considerable
volume. The best view is obtained
by descending the side of the preci-
pice to the look-out which has been
erected just opposite the fall. The
road onwards soon reaches the shore
of the lake, and enters the singu-
larly deserted vill. of
Chfizcilji, which is only oc-
cupied by pilgrims in July
and August. The -houses stand in
long rows, containing for the most
part two rooms, one above and
one below. Comfortable accom-
modation can be had at the inns, —
*Kome-ya and *Izumi-ya, — which
have pleasant rooms looking out
on the lake. ' European food can
generally be obtained during the
summer months. The temple here
is said to have been founded by
Shodo Shonin, in A.D. 816, after
his ascent of Nantai-zan. The
space between the bronze t(yrii
and the temple itself is considered
holy ground, and persons in jinriki-
shas or A'^{/oshad better go along
the lower road if they object to
being required to alight in order to
pass through. Close to the temple
is the gate of Nantai-zan, which is
closed except during the pilgrim
season. The ascent, occupying about
2 hrs., is extremely steep ; but the
view from the summit (8,150 ft.)
well repays the exertion ^ On the
S. E. lies the plain stretching to-
wards Tokyo ; on the W. rises the
lofty cone of Shirane-san ; further S.
is Koshin zan ; below lies the marshy
basin of Scnjo-ga-hara with the
stream meandering through it, the
blue lake of Chuzenji, a glimpse of
Lake Yumoto, and N. o1 Shirane,
the peaks of Taro-zan, 0-rManago,
Ko-Manago, and Nyoho-zan. The
ascent can also be made from
Yumoto in about 3^ hrs. (see p. 167).
Liike Chuzenji lies at the foot of
Nantai-zan, being surrounded on
the other sides by comparatively
low hills covered with trees to their
very summit. Its greatest length
from E. to W. is estimated at 3 ri,
its breadth at 1 ri. The lake
abounds with excellent salmon-
trout and other fish.f Its height
above the sea is 4,375 ft. The
road to Yumoto lies for about 1
ri along the N. shore, at the edge
of the forest covering the base
of Nantai-zan, to a promontory
called Senju-ga-saki. Boats may be
taken to this point from the vill.
of Chijzenji. Far away on the op-
posite side of the lake is a tiny islet
called Kdztike-shitiia,
[At the far end of the lake stands
a small shrine close to a brook
remarkable for the icy coldness
of its water. This is a pleasant
spot for a picnic, and is within
^ hr. walk of the Nishi no umif
a tarn nestling beneath the
wooded hills which, at this end,
recede from the larger lake.]
tNUMBEB AND BESCRIFTIOIT OF 7IKH Pri' IKTO LaKE ChuZENJI BY THE JaPAKESS
Government from 1873 to 1890.
Caught during the )
years lbi:U(>-89. i
Weighing .-.
Salmon.
283,000
149
lbs. 277
Salmon
trout.
556,000
8,669
lbs. 7,334
Iitana
(a species
of white
trout).
Carp.
Akakara^
Shrimps.
137,500
31,488
lbs. 49,634
22,000
168
lbs. 454
800
40,702
lbs. 2,645
16.000
•
166
Route 16, — Xikkoand XeighbourJiood,
Jnst beyond the promontory the
road turns away from the lake,
and soon crosses the Jigoku no
kaivay a slender stream which
hurries over smooth rocks. Rest
and shelter may be had at the
hut close by. A little further on, a
path branches off r. through the
grass to the cave called Jigoku no
kama (Heirs Cauldron) at the base
of Nantai-zan. The road ascends
slightly after leaving the hut, and a
few steps away to the 1. bring us to
the foot of the Byuzu ga takiy or
Dragon's Head Cascade, the most
curious- of all the cascades in
this neighbourhood. It consists of
a series of small falls rushing over
steep black rocks and forming two
streams. In order to obtain a full
view, the first stream must be
crossed. On the 1., the second
stream plunges down through deep,
dark hollows in the rock, and loses ,
itself in hidden windings. The
maples at this spot, during the
month of October, display the love-
liest tints that can be imagined.
Beyond this, the road is through a
desolate forest which was ravaged
by fire some years ago, until it
emerges on the Akanuma-ga-hara^
or Moor of the Red Swamp, pro-
bably so named from the colour of
the dying grass in autumn. It is
also called Senjo-ga-hara, or Moor
of the Battle-field, on account of
an engagement that took place here
in A.D. 1389 between the partisans
of the Ashikaga Shoguns and those
of the Southern dynasty of Mikados
(see p. 87). This wide solitude is
bounded on all sides by forests, above
which rise the peaks of Nantai-zan,
0-Manago, Ko-Manago, and Taro-
2an. Far away on the 1. is a wooded
elevation, in the centre of which the
cascade of Yu-no-taki appears like
a silver thread. Above this rises
the volcano of Shirane-san, the
only bare peak in the vicinity. The
road crosses the plain to a point not
far from the Yu-no-taki where it
begins to rise through a wood of
oaks. The bottom of the ascent
is 21 cho from Yumoto. Half-way-
through the wood, a path diverges 1.
to the foot of the cascade, whicH
rushes over a smooth black rock
between the trees at an angle of
60^, forming a stream that feeds
the Ryuzu-ga-taki, and finally falls
into Lake Chiizenji. Its perpendi-
cular height must be about 200 ft.
A narrow steep path by its side
leads up to the top, some 60 yds.
from the shore of Lake Yumoto^
80 called from the hot springs at its
further end. This liUce, though
smaller than Ltake Chnzenji, is
more beautiful. The road winds
through the wood along the E. side
of the lake to the small vill. of
Tnnioto, 5,000 ft. above the sea.
Heps the water is partially dis«
coloured by the sulphur springs.
The inn kept by Namma Shin-
jiiro close to the entrance of
the vill. on the r. is recommended,
as the temperature of the baths
is not too high for Europeans. An>
other good inn is the Yamada-ya ia
the centre of the village. There are
altogether ten springs, some under
cover, others exposed to the open air,
all open to the public and frequent*
ed by both sexes promiscuously.
Shirane-san may be ascended
from Yumoto, but the ascent from
Higashi-Ogawa (see p. 170) is to be
preferred.
6. — Ascent of 0-Manago and Nak-
tai-zan from yumoto.
The ascent of O-Managro is made
by returning to the Akanuma-ga-
hara, and turning to the 1. close by
a well-known cold spring. We skirt
the moor, passing through a thick
wood, and after 2i hrs. from Yumo-
to, arrive at a shrine containing a
stone image of Shozuka-no-Baba,
with a strange medley of ex-votos
hanging outside. Shortly after-
wards we turn to the 1. over a rustio
bridge, and in ^ hr. reach the torii
of O-Manago. The distance to the
summit is 1 ri 8 choy the real ascent
beginning at a bronze image of
Boute 17. — From Xikko to Omama vid Ashio,
167
PudO on a large Rtone pedestal.
Three-quarters of tlie way up, we
come to another bronze image
erected in honour of the mountain
god of Ontake in ShinshiL ; and the
last bit of the ascent is over preci-
pitous rocks, where chains are fixed
to assist the climber. On the top
stands a wooden shrine, with a
bronze image behind it, said to be
Kunitoko-tachi, the Earth-god. The
view is less extensive than that
from Nantai-zan.
Nantiii-zan can be ascended from
the back with much greater ease
than from Chuzenji, by starting from
a hut called th^ Ozaioano shiiku.
Chains at one point enable a small
"difficulty to be surmounted. In this
way the ascent can easily be made
in about 3^ hrs. from Yumoto.
Japanese pilgrims make the round
of the various mountains near
Nikko by ascending firs^ Nyoho-
zan, then Ko-Manago, descending
to a place called Sabusawa, and
ascending 0- Manage from the back.
They sleep at a hut called the
Shizu-no-Iwaya, climb Taro-zan in
the forenoon, Nantaizan in the
afternoon, and descend to Chuzenji.
ROUTE 17.
From Nikko to Tokyo or Ikao vid
Ashio and the Valley op the
Watabase-gawa. [Koshin-zan.]
Chuzenji to Ashio.
Itinerary,
NIKKO to :— Ri. Chb. M.
Top of pass 3 8 8
ASHIO 3 2 7i
Sori 2 21 6|
Godo 2 12 6}
Hanawa 1 — 2^'
OMAMA 3 4 7^
Total 15 11 37i
From Omama toTokjo by train
in 4^ hrs. Or from Omama by train
in f hr. to IMaebashi, whence see
Route 14. _
The road from Nikko to Omama
over the Hoso-o Pass, whose sum-
mit fs 4,100 ft. above sea level, is
rough but generally practicable for
jinrikishas the whole way. The
Watarase-gawa is reached before
entering
Asliio (InnSf *Tsuru-ya, Izmni-
ya). This place, famed for its
copper mines which are the most
productive in Japan, lies in ^
deep valley at an altitude of
about 2,300 ft. The mines, of
which there are two in the neigh-
bourhood, bear respectively the
names of Ashio and Kotaki, the
latter being about 6 m. from the
town. The ore is found .in a matrix
of clay, calcite, and quartz, and
is almost entirely the pyrite or
copper sulphide, although a small
quantity of oxide also occurs. The
lodes vary from 6 to 20 ft. in
width. The most approved modern
processes of treating the ore are in
use. The electricity for the motors
in the Ashio mine is generated by
water-power at a station about 1^
m. distant. The average yield is
19 % of metal, and the total annual
product of finished metal from the
two mines reaches the remarkable
figure of 3,600 tons. A rope^way
about 3 miles in length has been
constructed over the Ashio pass for
convenience of transport.
Persons desirous of inspecting the
mines should obtain an introduction
from the Office in Tokyo.
[An extra day at Ashio may well
be devoted to visiting the
wonderful rocks of Kosliiii-zaii.
It is a distance of 8 chb from
Ashio to the cluster of huts at
the base of the thickly wooded
mountain, whence a good
walker will in 3 hrs. reach a
point callel the Bessho, 4,500
ft., where the rock scenery
begins. In order to visit the
rocks, it is necessary to en*
168
JRoute 17. — From Nihko to Oniama via Asiliio,
gage the services of the guide
who lives at the hut. The
whole round will take about
2 J hrs., and is perfectly safe
lor all except those who are
troubled with dizziness.
Leaving the hut by the path
on the S. side, we commence
the round of the rocks, scram-
bling up and down the steepest
places imaginable, traversing
deep ravines on rough foot-
bridges, and crawling round the
face of precipices by the aid of
iron chains and foot-steps cut
in the solid rock. A point
called .Mi-harashi commands
a magnificent prospect of the
dense forest-covered mountains
below, and Tsukuba-san in the
plain beyond. Behind, the eye
rests upon the gigantic rock-
work, amidst which conifers
have perched themselves in
inaccessible nooks and crannies.
To the various features of the
landscape, more or less fanciful
•names have been given. The
most striking are the San-ju-
san-gerij a mass of precipices
dedicated to Kwannon ; the
Spring dedicated to Yakushi,
the waters of which are believed
to be efficacious in cases of
eye disease ; the Kinoko-sekiy
or Mushroom Bock, beyond
which comes the Yagura-seki,
supposed to resemble the towers
on the walls of a fortress;
next the Uj-ami-ga-taki, or Back
View Cascade, which falls
from a ledge above in silvery
threads. The huge precipice
close by is called the Go-shiki
no seki or Rock of the Five
Colours. The guide points
out a rock, the Men-sekiy in
which a remote likeness to a
human face may be traced.
Above this is the Go-ju no Toj or
Five-storied Pagoda, and near
it, a small natural arch called
the Ichi no rnon. Creeping
through this, the path reaches
the Bonji-seki, or Sanskrit
Character Rocks, next passing
the Raikd-daniy a deep gully
supposed to have some occult
relation to the occurrence of
thunder-storms; the Toro-iiva,
or Stone-lantern Rock ; the
Fujimi-scki, whence the upper
half of Fuji is seen; the Shishi'
seki, or Lion Rock ; the Ogi-iwa-
ya, or Fan Cavern ; and the
Zo-seki, or Elephant Rock.
Next we come to. where a huge-
natural bridge, called the Atncu
no Jmshij or Bridge of Hea-
ven, used to span the ravine-
until destroyed by an earth-
quake' in 1824, On the other
side is a hole about 6 ft. in
diameter, called Ni no mon, or
Second Gate, • where th&
bridge terminated. Ascending,
from this point a very narrow
erevice by the aid of chains^
the nath reaches the Mi-hara-
shi Sready mentioned. Then
passing behind a precipitous de-
tached rock, called the Bybbii-
iwa from its resemblance to &
screen, we ascend a gorge, and
finally reach the Oku-no-iiv
(5,450 ft.), where in thre&
caverns are small shrines de-
dicated to the three Shinto
deities Onamuji, Saruta-hiko,
and Sukuna-bikona. It was
the second of these whose wor-
ship was originally established
on this mountain under the
title of Koshin. On turning
the corner just beyond, we see
the tops of Nantai-zan and
O-Manago bearing about N., and
descending the hill-side, reach
the Bessho again in 25 min.
from the Oku-no-ii). The des-
cent to the huts at the base of
the mountain will take nearly
2^ hrs.]
The scenery the whole way along
the banks of the Watarase-gaiua is
delightful, and especially between
Ashio and Godo quite romantic.
Occasionally the road actually over-
hangs the river, which now flows
on in a perfectly placid course^.
Eoiite IS. — From Nikko to Ikao over Hie Konsei-toge. 169
while at others it foams and dashes
Amidst tremendous boulders. After
passing
Sori (Inn, Komatsu-ya), a glade
of fine cryptomerias attests the
priestly care formerly bestowed on
the temple of Tenno. The road
then winds up and down the
thickly wooded side of the valley,
high above the rushing waters of
the river to
Godo {Inn, Tama-ya), and
Hannwa {Inny * Nakachi-ya).
After the latter place it becomes
less picturesque, leading for most
-of the way across a cultivated
plateau. Large quantities of ai are
taken both with the fly and the net
in the Watarase-gawa, which is
rejoined just above
Oiiiama (Inn Tsuru-ya), see
p. 161.
[An alternative way from Nikko
to Ashio is vi& Chiizenji, whence
over the mountains in about 5
hrs. steady walking by a path
impracticable for conveyances of
any sort. A boat is taken across
the lake to a point ^ hr. dis-
tant, whence a steep path leads
through a wood to the crest of
a hill overlooking the lake and
commanding a beautiful pros-
pect. This climb also takes }
hr. Looking round we see, tier
upon tier, the forest-clad ridges
"that close in the valley of the
Watarase-gawa. Ahold, densely'
wooded^ hill occupies the fore-
ground, and behind it rise the
mountains of Kotsuke with the
Oyama range in the shadowy
distance on the 1., while the
whole scene is dominated by the
graceful slope of Fuji, its grand
height undiminished by the
many miles of country that lie
between it and the spectator.
Through the woods below on
the other side of the pass, a
glimpse may be caught of the
dark waters of Lake Chuzenji,
with Nantai-zan beyond. The
iremaiuder of the way from the
top of the pass is a descent
through narrow valleys * be-
tween steep and scantily wooded
hills,' and over rough stones
along the torrent bed. About
10 m. from Chuzenji the mining
vill. of Akakura, with its copper
smelting works, is passed;
whence to Ashio some 2^ m.
further on, the road, though
rough and stony, is practicable
for jinrikishas.]
ROUTE 18.
From Nikko to Ikao over thb
KONSEI-TOGE. [SHIRANE-SAN.]
Itinerary.
NIKKO :— RL Clio. 3f.
Chuzenji 3 12 Tf
Yumoto 2 27 ^
Top of Konsei Pass 1 18 3}
Higashi Ogawa .... 4 18 11
Sukagawa 1 . 18 3^
Okkai 2 — 5
Ohara 18 3
Takahhra 1 23 4
NUMATA 2 13 5}
Iwamoto 1 22 4
Kami Shiroi 1 10 3
Shiroi 1 24 4
Shibukawa 26 If
IKAO 2 17 6
Total 28 20 69 J
This route is much to be recom-
mended to those desirous of seeing
something of comparatively un-
beaten tracks. A glimpse is ob-
tained of the dense forest that
covers so large a portion of the
central mountain-range; and the
valleys of the Katashina-gawa and
Tonc-ga\fa, down which most of the
latter part of the way leads, are
most picturesque. Travellers wishing
to return to Tokyo by this route
without visiting Ikao can joia
the railway at Maebashi, 3 ri
170 TiOUte 18. — From Niklv to Ikao ovej' the Komei-toge.
S7 cho beyond Shibukawa, the
railway journey occupying 3^ hrs.
The means of transport for bag-
gage on this route are : coolies over
the Kousei-toge to Higashi-Oga-
wa, horses not being taken across
the pass; horses to ISumata, and
thence jinrikisha or carriage.
To start from Nikko itself makes
an awkward division of the journey.
The start should be made from
Chuzenji, in which case, sleeping
the first night at Higashi Ogawa,
and the second at Numata, the
traveller will reach Ikao on the
afternoon of the third day.
The way up the Konsei-toge is a
continued gentle ascent through a
forest with an undergrowth of bam-
boo grass, terminating in a steep
climb. Half a i*i below the sum-
mit is a small shrine dedicated to
the phallic worship of the god
£onsei.
Tradition says that tlie original object
of reverence wag made of gold, but that
having been stolen, it was afterwards
replaced by one of stone, Kx-votos, chiefly
wood and stone emblems, are often pre-
sented at the shi-ine. Very little is known
about the origin of phallic worship in
Japan, although it appears to have been
at one time nearly universal in the
country districts, especially those of the
I^. and £.
Prom the top of the pass on
looking round, are seen the thickly
wooded slopes converging towards
the dark waters of Lake Yumoto,
behind which stands up in bold
relief the massive form of Nantai-
zan, flanked on the 1. by 0-Manago.
To the r. a glimpse is carght of a
portion of Lake Chiizenji, while
Mount Tsukuba rises in the distant
plain beyond. On the Joshu side
the thick foliage intercepts all
view, and there is an equal absence
of distant prospect during the whole
of the long downward walk. There
is no water for 2 hrs., neither is
there any sign of humalL habita-
tion in the forest, except a solitary
hunter's hut. This likewise is de-
serted during the summer, at which
season alone the tourist will think of
coming this way, since the road is .
practically impassable from the end
of October to well on in March.
The foliage is very fine, and in the
higher part of the forest a peculiar
effect is produced by a drapery of
moss, hanging in gray filaments from
the branches of the tall conifers.
On nearing Ogawa-no- Yumoto, a
few huts with thermal springs
about 1 ri from the vill. of Higashi
Ogawa, the path follows a stream
flowing down from Shirane-san.
Iliirnshi Oga^fa (Inn by Kurata
Einzaburo) is 2,300 ft. above the
sea. The Ogawa, from which this
vill. takes its name, is a small
tributary of the Eatashina-gawa».
itself an affluent of the Tonegawa.
[Travellers doing this rou£e in the
inverse direction may ascend
Shirano-san from Higashi
Ogawa, descending on the other
side to Yumoto near Chuzenji ►
A reason for not attempting the
ascent from the Nikko side is
its extreme steepness. Even
from Higashi Ogawa, parts of
the climb are by no means>
easy, nor is there any water on
the mountain side. Shirane-
' san is a volcano 8,800 ft. high^
and was active as recently as.
1889.]
Leaving Higashi Ogawa and con-
tinuing down the valley of the
Ogawa, dotted with many hamlets^
we cross over a hill before reaching
Siika^a^va in the valley of the
Katashina-gawa. From the ridge,
at the foot of which lie two hamlets
with curious names — Hikage-Chido-
ri, or Shady Chidori, and Hinata-
Chidori, or Sunny Chidori, — there
is a fine view, on looking back, of
this valley stretching far away to
the N. The two hamlets are situated
on opposite sides of the stream, and
united by a bridge.
The terrace -like formation of the
hills at the back of Hikage-chidori
is very curious. Three terraces at
least 2 m. long are distinctly
marked, each of the lower two being
a few hundred yards wide^ and the
Route 19,-~-Hitac}d, Shimosa, Kazusa, ^ BosJiu.
ITl
iq)per one, sunnount«d by the
usual irregular ridge, being from
J to f m. in width. The course of
these ridges, which seem to mark
the successive positions at different
periods of a river bank, is S.W. by
N.E. We next reach
^kkai (passable accommodation),
near which the river dashes over
perpendicular walls of granite.
[Opposite Okkai, on the far side
of a small affluent of the Kata-
shina-gawa, lies the vill. of
Oyu. This point affords an
opportunity of climbing Akagi-
san (see p. 151), the descent
being made to Numata on the
other side.]
The path now leaves the valley
of theKatashina-gawa, and crossing
a well-cultivated upland, comes to
Ohara (poor accommodation),
whence it winds over the hills
and up the Kazusaka-toge. The
view from this point is supegrb,
including Haruna-san, the Koshu
Koma-ga-take, Yatsu-ga-take, Asa-
ma-yama, Yahazu-yama, and the
Shirane of Kusatsu. At
Takahira) the road becomes level
and praaticable for jinrikishas.
Numata (Innj Odake-ya) was
formerly a castle-town. Soon
after passing it we enter the
Talley of the Tonegawa, where trout-
fishing is largely carried on. A
portion of the river is enclosed with
stones and fencing running out
from each bank to the centre of the
stream, where a bamboo platform
inclined at an angle of about 15°
is fixed upon baskets filled with
stones. The water rushes up this
platform and leaves the fish at the
top. They are then caught, and
kept alive in perforated boxes
which are placed on the platform.
The scenery is very picturesque
almost the whole way from Numata
to Shibukawa, the road passing
high and rugged cliffs that over-
hang the Tonegawa. At one point,
-where the cliff rising sheer from the
xiver allows no room for a pathway,
a passage about 50 ft. long has
been cut through the solid rock.
Shibukawa is a considerable
town. Heuce to Ikao is, for the
most part, a gentle ascent over
grassy mountain slopes. For a
detailed account of Ikao and Neigh-
bourhood, see Route 14.
EOUTE 19.
Trips in the Provinces op Hita-
CHI, Shimosa, Kazusa, and
BosHtJ.
1. TOKYO TO TSUKUBA-SAN, KASAMA,
AND MITO. 2. TdKYO TO NARITA,
KADORI, CHOSHI, AND KASHIMA.
3. KASHIMA TO MITO. 4. TOKYO
TO laSARAZU, KANO-ZAN [NOKOGIRI-
YAMA] , AND TATEYAMA. 5. TATE-
YAMA TO KOMINATO.
These four provinces form a natural
division of the oonntry, all partaking
more or less of the same characteristics
/ of flatness and sandiness. The opinion
of geologists is that a great part of this
district, whose sands seem to have been
washed up by the sea, together with tlie
wide Tokyo plain which is formed by
alluvium washed down from the central
mountain-ranges, was submerged in quite
recent times, and that only the southern
half of the peninsula of Kazusa-Boshtt
stood up out of the waves. This process
of rising and drying is still going on.
The large lagoons on the lower course
of the Tonegawa gradually shrink in
size, and the same is true of Tokyo
Bay. From these considerations, it will
be inferred that parts of this district
are somewhat di-eaiy travelling. Mount
Tsukuba (2,8S0 ft.) in the N., and the
S. portion from Kano-zan downwards,
with tuff ranges which, though not ex-
ceeding 1,200 ft,, seem higher because
rising almost directlj' from the sea, will
best repay the tourist's trouble. In
the S. more particularly, there ai-e lovely
views, as well as a mild winter climate
due to the Kuroghio, or Japanese Gulf-
Stream. _ j
The three provinces of Shimosa, Kazu-
sa, and Bosha ancientlj' formed one,
under the name Fti9a noKnni, said to have
been derived from the excellent quality of
the hemp grown there. The district was
172 Eoute 19. — HitacIU, Shimdsaf Kazum, dt Boshu,
subsequently divided into Upper and
Iiower, or Kami tm Fuhii and. Shimo tm
Fnm, contracted into Kaznm and Shi-
indMi, and part of the former was subse-
quently coastituted into the province of
Awa, better known by its Chinese name
of Bosha. * Upper ' and ' Xower * seem
to lAive ])een applied to denote the relative
proximity of these two provinces to the
ancient capital. Kazusa, B "^sliQ, and the
j?i'eater part of Shimosa now constitute
the prefecture of Chiba, called after a
town sitiirtted on the E, shore of Tokyo
Bay. Tlie rest of Shimosa and Hitachi
are included in the prefecture of Ibaraki,
of which Mito is the capital.
1. — Ascent op Tsukuba.
AND :Mito.
Mito Railway.
Kasama
stance
From
5kyO.
Names
of
Remarks.
Stations.
TOKYO (Ueno),
/'See Northern
48 m.
OYAMAJct
< Railway,
(.Route 24.
52t
Yuki.
54*
Kawashima.
5Si
Shimodate
( Alipfht for
( Tsukuba.
06^
Iwase,
71
Fukuhara.
76
Kasama.
78t
Shishido.
Sik
Uchihara.
89*
MITO.
The journey by rail to Shimodate,
the station for Tsukuba, occupies
a little over 3 lirs. Jinrikishas
can thence be taken to the foot of
the mountain, a distance of about 6
ri over a level and fairly good road ;
and although the ascent to the vill.
of Tsukuba is ^ hr. rough walking,
the whole journey may be done in
an afternoon from Tokyo. There is
fair accommodation at
Shilii<»date {Inn, Tomo-ya); but it
is best to push on to Tsukuba, where
the inns are better. The jinrikisha-
nien will act as guides as far as
the cleanly little vill. of
Tsnkiiha, {In7i, *Edo-ya), which
lies about half-way up the moun-
tain^ and contains numerous houses
much|frequented by the people of
the province of Hitachi. Most of the
inns command a fine view of the
plain of Tokyo, stretching away
towards Fuji. The ascent of the
mountain begins immediately after
leaving the vill., the path passing
through the grounds of a temple.
From this point to the summit of
the W. peak, called Nantai-zan
('male mountain '), the distance is
about 50 cho. This is the usual
ascent, being less steep than the
path up the E. and lower peak, Nyo-
tai-zan ('female mountain'). At
the summit are numerous shrines,
of which the chief is dedicated to
Izanagi. Similarly, the temple on
Nyotai-zan is dedicated to his con-
sort Izanami. There is a magnifi-
cent view of the Tokyo plain, Fuji,
Asama-yama, an^ the Nikko range.
The name Tfuhnha is said to be com-
posed of two Chinese words meaninjBT
* built bank ;* and the legend is that
Izanafri and Izanami constructed the
mountain as a bulwark aj?ainst the waves
of the Pacific Ocean, which they, had
forced to retire to the other side of Kashi-
ma, formerly an island in the sea. This
tradition is in accordance with the fact,
recently verified by geologists, that the
E. shores of Japan have been gi'adu-
ally rising during many centuries past.
One legend says that Tsukuba U a frag-
ment of the sacred mountain in Cbtna
called Godai-san, which broke off and flew
over to Japan. This is supposed to ac-
count for the peculiar plants found on it.
But the fact is that no l)otanical species
occur here that are not also found oil other
Japanese mountains, although the inhabi-
tants of the vicinity, noticing the differ-
ence l)etween the floras of the mountain
and the plain, might naturally l)e led to
suppose that there was something peculiar
about the f oi-mer,
^
Pines and cryptomerias cover the
mountain, and the rocks about the
summits are difficult to scramble
over, the assistance of an iron chain
being necessary in parts. From the
W. to the E. peak is an interval
of about ^ m. The descent from
the latter is 70 cho. It passes
over and between huge rocks, to
which fanciful names have been
given, from their supposed resem-
blance to portions of the human
body. The descent may be made
Ascent of Tauhiba, Kasama. Mito,
178
either to the vill. of Tsukuba or to
the hamlet of Sakayori, In the
latter case it is advisable to have
the jiurikishas sent round to await
one, in order to be able to go
straight on to Shimodate again.
The ascent and descent take about
4 hrs.
Leaving Shimodate, the train
reaches in 1 hr. the small town of
Kasaiiia (Inn, *Itsutsu-ya), stand-
ing at the base of a lofty hill whose
samniit was formerly crowned by
the castle of the Daimyo I^Iakino
Etchu-no-Kami. The site is easily
reached by a path leading from the
broad main street of the town. At
intervals, traces are still visible of
the old stone-faced embankments,
of small but deep dry ditches, and
of narrow bridges and heavy gate-
ways. At the summit are steep
flights of stone steps, and above
all is the limited space originally
occupied by the Daimyo's palace,
round which runs a high earthen
embankment. The place is interest-
ing, and gives a good idea of the style
of Japanese fortifications, where
nature rather than art had raised
the defences. The stronghold must,
under any circumstances, have
been well-nigh impregnable. The
Temple of Inari, once of high
repute, is of no great size. It stands
on the 1. of the main street, the
approach being up a narrow alley,
through an almost continuous arch-
way of tcriif placed within a few
inches of each other. The wood-
carvings in the chapel are beauti-
ful, the human figures being excep-
tionally well -formed.
There' is a jinrikisha road irom.
Kasama to !Mito (4^ ri) ; but it is
not recommended if the train be
available. The time by rail is 50
min. As the train approaches
Mito, a number of caves are seen
on the 1. in the high bluff on
which a portion of the town is
built. These galleries were hollowed
out for the sake of the blocks used
in the manufacture of soft- stone
furnaces.
Mito (Inn, Suzuki-ya, with a
branch establishment near the
railway station), the principal
town of the province of Hitachi,
and capital of the prefecture of
Ibaraki, lies some 3 ri inland from
the shore of the Pacific Ocean, and
is situated on rising ground in the
midst of a wide plain. The town
is in three divisions, the Lower
Town, the Upper Town, and the
Castle Enclosure lying between the
other two. The castle, where
formerly lived the Princes of Mito,
is picturesquely situated on the
crest of the lofty ground that rises
from the plain. The defences con-
sisted of deep trenches on the upper
town side, and lofty banks — the edge
of the hill, in fact — on the other,
with a small moat below. Three
large gates and one tower still
remain. It is worth walking round
the castle and under the beautiful
trees within the grounds. The
Public Garden on the E. of the
upper town, overlooking the large
mere of Semba, is also prettily
situated.
It was laid out 8om« forty-five years
ago by Rekko, the old Prince of Mito, as
a retreat for himself after handing over
the cares of government to his successor.
A good view is obtained from the
summer-house in the garden, where
men of note formerly assembled to
write verses and practise penman-
ship. The staple manufactures of
Mito are cloth and paper. Tobacco
is also made into cigarettes in large
quantities, and a considerable export
trade is carried on in both salt and
fresh -water fish.
The visitor with time to spare
should ride out to the pleasant sea-
side hamlet of Oarai, a favourite
retreat of the Mito folks. The
journey there by jinrikisha with two
men takes about 2 hrs.
For the coast road from Mito
southwards to Kashima, see p. 177 ;
for that north to Taira and Kori-
yama, see p. 187.
174 Route 19. — Hitachi, Shimdsa, Kozma, <& Boshu.
2. — TOKYO TO NARITA, KADORI, CHO-
SHI, AND KASHIMA.
Itmeranj.
TOKYO to :— Bi. Clio. M.
Ichikawa 3 25 9
Yawata 29 2
Funabaslii 1 12 3J
Owada 2 28 6|
Usui 2 — 5
Sakura 1 13 3^
Shusui 1 3 2^
NARITA 2 9 6^
Ino 3 15 8|
Sawara 2 26 6|
Kadori 28 2
Tsunomiya 18 IJ
CHOSHI (boat) . . 10 15 25^
Total 83 6 81
Omnibuses ply between Ryogoku-
bashi (Tok^o) and Ichikawa, where
the Treaty Limit is reached at the
Ichikawa ferry over the Yedogawa.
The road is nearly level the whole
way, a remark which applies to this
route in general.
Yawata takes its name from a
temple standing on the 1. side of
the village street, tebout half-way
down. The temple buildings are
poor ; but by the side of the chapel
is a remarkable ichd tree, the trunk
of which, about 10 ft. in diameter,
has the appearance of being formed
of some 40 or 50 trees of different
sizes, growing together like a huge
faggot.
Funabaslii (Iww, Ebisu-ya) is a
large town, a little way inland from
Tokyo Bay.
This place is celebrated as having been
the rendezvous of the village chiefs who,
in 1644, headed by the famous Sakura
Sogoro, proceeded to Yedo to protest
against the tyranny of the lord of Sakui-a.
Sven to protest was in those days a cajntal
offence, acquiescence in all the mandates
of his superiors Ijeing an inferior's sole
and sufficient duty. Not Sogoro only
was put to death : his wife was crucified
with him, and their three children de-
capitated before their eyes. One, a child of
aeven, was butchered as he was eating
the sweetmeats thrown to him by the
compassionate spectators. This pathetic
Btory is gi-aphically told in "Vol. II of Mit-
ford's • Tales of Old Japan '.
[The carriage road, 4^ ri, to
Chiba (IfinSf Kano-ya, Ume-
matsu-jia), capital of the pre-
fecture of the same name,,
diverges r. at the end of the
main street of Fun abashi. Three
miles before reaching the city,
at the fishing hamlet of Jnagi,
is a bathing establishment
called * Keiki-Kwan, where it
may be better to sleep than at
Ghiba. A good 2 m. walk from
Ghiba is to the famous old
temple of Daiganji^ standing
in a pine forest where thousands
of cormorants roost and build
their nests. There is a direct
road from Ghiba to Narita
through pleasant country.]
To Owada the road traverses an
upland country, where some of the
best rice in Japan is grown. Some
way on, it crosses a narrow canal
which brings the Imba lagoon into
communication with Tokyo Bay. It
then traverses the wide plain of
Narashino,. where occasional reviews
are held of the troops forming the
Tokyo garrison. Th« locality is be-
lieved to be haunted by the magic
foxes and badgers that play so im-
portant a part in Japanese folk-lore.
Usui (Inn, Ota-ya) is a good-sized
posting-station on the S. shore of
the lagoon.
Sakura (Inn, Kome-ya). At an
angle of the road 1., just within view
of the trees on the rising ground
where the castle formerly stood, is
the old execution-grbund, where the
farmer Sogoro and his family suffered
death in 1645. A large memorial-
stone now marks the spot. The
road turns to the 1., descends into
the town past the castle site, and
rises again into the upper town.
The castle was formerly the residence
of the chief of the Hotta family, which
furnished many statesmen to the Goroju,
or Chief Council of the Tokngawa Sh5-
guns. Its site is now occupied by the
barracks of the garrison.
The temple raised to Sogoro's me-
moraty Shusui, is a poor building ;
but the number of worshippers is
Temple of Ftido at Narita,
17^
great, and charms bearing the name
of the martyred peasant suU in large
numbers.
KaritA (Inns^ Ebi-ya, Wakama-
tsa-ya) is famed for its great Temple
of Ftiddj to which pilgrimages are
made from all parts of the country.
The wood carvings adorning it are
Gpecially noteworthy. Near the
great gate is a well where pilgrims
perform the ceremony of washing
with cold water. Close by is the
Danjiki-doj where devotees retire to
fast during a whole week, the only
i^efreshment permitted to them being
the use of the cold bath. Formerly
the period was three weeks.
Tradition says that this practice was
inatitated about the middle of the 16th
century by the saint D5yo, who passed
s hundred days in religious exercises.
At la«t his prayers were answered by a
▼ision of the god, who offered him the
choice of a sha^ or a blunt sword to
fiWBliow. The saint chose the sharp one,
which the god thrust down his throat,
CBusing the blood to flow freely. On
awakening he found his intellectual
powers immensely increased, and felt no
traces of the wound. Nevertheless, priests'
robes dyed with the blood shed on this
occasion are preserved among the trea-
Bures of the temple.
In a chapel close to the Danjiki-
do, worshippers may often be seen sit-
ting in a circle, and handing round
one to another a huge rosary to
which a bunch of horse-hair is
attached, and chanting the invoca-
tion Naviu Amida Butsu, The
Ifi-o-nwn, is a massive struc-
ture of keyaki wood, ornamented
with carvings. Under the archi-
trave are eight groups representing
Chinese children at play, and sages
probably intended for the * Seven
Sages of the Bamboo Grove,' whose
attributes are chess, music, drawing,
and caligraphy. At the r. end are
groups of young cock-fighters, and
the child delivered from the tall
water-jar by his sharp-witted com-
panion Shiba Onko, who breaks a
hole in it with a stone to let the
water escape. In front r. is a sage
writing an inscription, 1. a sage
playing on the harp. On the 1.
aide are children playing, and a
group, the central figure of which
dances to the music of flageolet and
drum. At the back are groups of
checker-players and of sages in-
specting a picture.
On ascending the steps of the
Honddj or ^lain Temple, the first
thing that strikes the eye is the huge
receptacle for money- offerings, pre-
sented by inhabitants of Tokyo.
Above it is a large panel with carvings
of phcBnixes gorgeously coloured, and
on the r. and 1. of this are coloured
panels of peacocks, also in reliefs
This is the only colouring about the
building, the rest of the exterior
being of unpainted keyaki. The two
sides and back are decorated with
eight splendid panels, each 9 ft. by
4 ft., representing groups of the
Gohyaku Rakan in low relief,
with an immense variety of incident
and portraiture. On the huge doors
that close the sliding windows of
this part of the building, are carvings
of the Twenty-four Paragons 'of
Filial Piety.
In the Naijirif or Holy of Holies,
is the sacred black image of Fudo,
hardly visible in the dim light.
Among the rock-work behind, are 36
small bronze figures of children ; in
the centre at the top is Fudo in a
cave, and higher up bn the r. the
saint En-no-Shokaku. The gro-
tesque figures popularly called Dai-
ra-botchi in the gables, which bear
the ends of the ridge-pole, are excel-
lent expressions of the effort to sup-
port a heavy burden. Round the
building under the architrave are
groups of fabulous animals. The
three-storied pagoda is a very beau-
tiful example of this architectural
form, finely 'decorated and paiuted.
The black groups on the four sides
represent the Sixteen Rakan. Close
by on the r. is a handsome library
(Kyddd)t containing a highly de-
corated revolving octagonal box
borne on the shoulders of parti-
coloured demons. Note the peculiar
coffered ceiling painted with kalei-
doscopic patterns. In the ex-voto
Hall (Eina-do) to the 1. of the
176 Route 19. — HitacJii, Shimosa, Ixazusa, d Boshu,
Library, are pictures of Fudo help-
ing suppliants ; also a huge rosary,
the string of which is a cahJe made
of human hair. A flight of steps
leads up to another platform, where
stands a large red chapel called the
Komyd-dd, or Hall of Resplendent
Light, dedicated to Dainichi. Be-
hind the Koinyd-do . is a long low
cave, at the end of which a figure of
Pudo is dimly visible by the light of
a lantern.
A shrine called Daishi-doy dedi-
cated to Kobo Daishi and contain-
ing an image of that saint besides
fine carvings of dragons, has recently
been added to the temple buildings.
Below the temple, too, on the 1., a
small exhibition of relics is being
Bet up.
[Nearly 17 ri S. of Narita, stands
the celebrated temple of Kasa-
mori dedicated to Kwannon.
The following is the itinerary.
NARITA to ;— Ri. Clio. M.
Shibayama .. 4 — 9J
Naruto 3 18 sj
Togane 1 27 4j
Oami 1 16 sj
Honno 1 19 3$
!Mobara 1 24 4
Ghonan 2 — 6
KASAMORI.. 1 — 2^
Total .... 16 32 41 J
The temple is built on a plat-
form which rests on the point
of an irregular conii-al rock
some 60 ft. in height, the
edges being supported by stout
wooden scaffolding, and is
reached by three flights of stairs.
A country road connects Kasa-
mori with Kominato on the
Pacific coast, distance about
11 ri. For Kominato see p.
180.]
From Narita the road lies chiefly
over moorland to
Kadori. also called Sawara (Inn,
Ukishima-ya, besides many others
crowding the entrance to the splen-
did grove of trees in which the
temple stands).
The temple is dedicated to Fntsn-nnsM
or Iwai-nushi, a deified warrior of the
mythical i)eriod, whose symbol is a sword.
The date of its foundation is unknown,
but may })e placed a good deal earlier
than the 5th century A.D. The present
building was erected at the beginning of
the 17th centuiy and restored in A.D. 1700,
It is said that, as late as the beginning of
the 17th century, the waters of the Tone-
gawa came right up to the base of the
hill on which the temple stands, and that
all the com a,nd rice-fields between it and
Tsunomiya have been reclaimed giuoe
that period.
The temple is in the mediaeval
style of Shinto architecture, with a
heavy roof of thick shingling, and
is painted red. R. and 1. of the
oratory steps, a mirror and a sword,
emblematic of the two sexes, are
suspended in bags of brocade on
branches of the sacred masdkaki
tree. Black lacquered doors close
the entrance of the chapel. Frozn
the back of the grove is a fine view
of the plain to the N., intersected
by the Tonegawa and the lagoons.
Tsukuba is visible to the 1. on a
clear day. Kashima lies out of sight
behind a wooded hill on the r.
At Tftiiiioniiya boats to Choshi,
or to Ofunatsu for the famous
temple of Kashima (see next
page), can be obtained. Shortly
before reaching Choshi the river
attains a breadth of over a mile, bat
contracts considerably at its mouth,
where it rolls between sharp rockB
that rise abruptly from the sea.
When there is any swell from the
E., this bar becomes dangerous.
Choslii {Inns, Daishin, Komai-
yasu) consists of several villages
extending for over 2 m. along the
S. bank of 'the Tonegawa. The
chief occupation of the inhabi-
tants is fishing. Immense quantities
of iwashiy a fish resembling the
pilchard but smaller, are calught
here and along the coast. They are
boiled in huge cauldrons to obtain
the oil, which is used for lamps ;
. and the residue, dried in the sun, is
sent inland for manure. The odour
from this process is overpowering.
KasJiivia,
17T
and renders Ghoshi and the coast
villages unbearable. Kashima can
"be easily reached from the opposite
shore, but the road is too sandy to
be agreeable, and the best way is
to laud at IkisUt from which the
distance is a little i^der 3 ri.
[From Ofunatsu it is ^ ri to the
vill. of Ksisliiii|a, crowded with
inns and restaurants for the ac-
commodfiition of pilgrims. The
name Ka-shinia means ' deer
island/ but the district is an is-
land no longer. It consists of a
sandy spit, 13 ri by 1 ri, separa-
ting the sea from the Kita-ura
lagoon, and ending at the
mouth of the Tonegawa, oppo-
site the town of Ghoshi. The
deer used to wander freely
through the groves round the,
temple, but they have now
been almost exterminated. A
broad avenue leads to the
temple, which is situated in a
grove of fine cr3'ptomerias. It
consists of an oratory and
chapel connected by a short
corridor in the usual mediaeval
style, painted red, and with a
thick shingled roof.
The principal deity here wor-
shipped is Take-mika-zucbi. This god
was one of those sent down from Hea-
ven to Japan, to prepare the advent of
the line of earthly sovereigns known
Afterwards as Mikados. The temple
is usually said to have been founded
in the * age of the gods,* and cer-
tainly dates from the prehistoric
epoch. From the most ancient times
it was the practice here, as at Tse, to
rebuild not only tlie main temple, but
also all the inferior ones around it,
every twenty years ; but alx)ut the
beginning of tlie 9th century, for
reasons of economy, the rule l)ecame
confined to the principal building.
The temple faces N. But the
box containing the sword which
is the embodiment of the god
laces E., i.e., towards the Paci-
fic Ocean. A narrow path be-
hind the temple conducts to a
small enclosure containing, the
celebrated Kaname-ishit or Pivot
Stone, supposed to be a pillar
whose foundation is at the centre
of the earth. According to one
tradition, it was sanctified by
the local god taking his seat on
it directly after his descent from
heaven. Another account is
that under this place is confined
the gigantic fish called namaz2iy.
whose contortions are the cause
of earthquakes, and that the
stone acts as some restraint on.
the creature's movements. Mi-
tsukuni, the second Prince of
Mito, is said to have dug for six
days round it without finding
the lower end. About 1 m. from
the temple is a stretch of moor-
land called Tahaina no hara^
literally, the Plain of High
Heaven, where the gods are
supposed to have assembled in
days of old, and where stone ar-
row-heads are still. often found.].
S. — Kashima to Mito.
Itinei'ary.
KASHIMA to :— Bi. Clio. M.
Ofunatsu — 18 IJ
Hokoda (boat) 8 — 19|
^lomiyama 1 18 3f
Konashi 1 — 2\
Natsumi 2 — 6
Onuki — 18 IJ
MITO 3 — 7|
Total 16 18 40J
The above distances are approxi-
mate. From Kashima to Ofunatsu
is by jinrikisha. The boat journey
from the latter place to Hokoda is
across the Kita-ura lagoon. Small
hills stretch along the greater part
of the shore on either side of the
lagoon, especially towards Hokoda.
Boats have to wind in and out
through a channel traversing the
largo reed-grown marsh in front of
the tQwn, and then by a wide canal
penetrate into its very centre. Pas-
sengers are transferred from the
steamers to boats, close to the
entrance of the channel.
Hokoda (decent accommodation)
is a poor fishing village. From this
178
Route 19. — HitdcJdy Shimosa, Kazusa, d- Boshu,
place two roads go to Moniiyama.
On leaving the village, there is a con-
siderable ascent. Jinrikishas and
pack-horses are obtainable ; but as
the road is generally in bad order, it
is well to be prepared to walk at any
rate as far as Onuki.
Moiiiiyaiiia {Inn, Koji-ya) is a poor
village. There is a direct and shorter
road to this place from Kashima,
but it is sandy and heavy travelling.
KonflSlli (inuj Ebi-ya at Benten,
just beyond the vill.). The roar of
the Pacific can be heard all the way
.from Momiyama to this place, and
in windy weather clouds of spray
Are blown over the low rising ground.
Half-way between Konashi and
Onuki the road descends from the
wooded headlands to the beach,
where the view of the Pacific is
* very fine.
Nntsumi is the largest of the
villages in this part of the country,
all small and poor, and inhabited
only by fishermen. At
Onuki jinrikishas can be ob-
ta ined ; but they are more nume-
rous on the other side of the ferry
beyond this village; or else boats
m ay be taken up the Nakagawa to
Mito.
4. — Tokyo to Kisarazu, Kano-zan,
Tenjin-yama [Nokogiri-yama] ,
Kachiyama, and Tateyama.
Small steamers from Tokyo (Rei-
gan-jima) to Kisarazu in 3 hrs. For
further details of steamers, see p. 64.
Itinerary,
KISARAZU to :— Ri. Chd. M.
Kano-zan 4 23 llj
Tenjin-yama (Mina-
to) 3 — 7i
Take-ga-oka 34 2|
Kanaya 1 31 4|
Motona 1 8 3
Kachiyama 1 — 2^
Hojo 4 14 lOf
TATEYAMA .... 13 1
Total 17 16 42|
Shortly after leaving Kisaraza,
the road to Kano-zan gradually as-
cends a valley and crosses a do-w
range of hills.
The mountain of Kano-znn falso pro-
nounced Kano-zan), which rises to Sk
heierht of 1,2R0 ftipron the ])onler8 of tlie
provinces of Kazusa and Bosha, is »
cons]ncuou8 object in the view across
Tokyo Bay, and itself commands a macmi-
ficent prospect. It is sufficiently elevate*l
al)ove the plain to escape the damp ftir
which renders Tokyo so unhealthy in.
summer, and though not hiph enon/?h to
have a temperature markedly below that
of the suiToundinj? lowlands, is visited by
fresh sea-breezes that render it an agree-
able resort during the hot months.
Knno-zan, {Inns, * Yuyii-kwan in
foreign style ; Marushichi), a village
of about 100 houses, stands on
the top of the mountain. It is
divided into an upper and lower ^
street, the upper street running E.
and W., and the lower N. and S. Be-
tween them, surrounded by a mag-
nificent grove of cryptomerias and
other conifers, stands a large but
decaying temple dedicated to Yaku-
shi, erected in 1708. The Yuyu-
kwan Hotel is situated in the upper
street, facing W. The view is
superb : — below, the blue waters
of Tokyo Bay, beyond which rises
Fuji; to the l.,_the Hakone range ; to
the r., the Oyama and Tanzawa
ranges ; and further N., the Nikko
mountains, Akagi-san, and Tsukuba.
The best walk at Kano-zan (abont
1 ri) is to the big camphor-tree
{kiisunoki) one of the five largest
trees in Japan, and probably 2,000
years old. It is 72 ft. in circum-
ference ; the largest branch is 24 ft.
in circumference. The way to this
tree — and it is very picturesque —
leads from a corner in the upper
street where there is a school-house
just opposite the great temple of
Yakushi, and descends in a S.
direction along the 1. side of a
thickly wooded valley. Branching
off r. from the way to the big tree, is
a path leading by a steep descent to
a pretty waterfall some '85 ft. high.
It is about 13 chd, or 1 m., from the
vill. that the way to the fall diverges.
Kano-ian. Nokogiri-i/ama,
179
The footpath leading to the ^all is
not the first one reached (over
which there is a small torii)^ but is
about ^ m. further on. Japanese
visitors — at least those of the lower
class — generally improve the occa-
sion by taking a shower-bath under
the cascade.
Another good walk is as follows :
Passing through the lower street
of Kano-zan towards the N., we
reach 1. a flight of 218 stone steps,
at the top of which is a small
Shinto shrine. This is the highest
point of the mountain ; but as it is
overgrown with tall trees, the sum-
mit commands no view. Opposite
the steps on the r., a short path
le^i^ds to the brow of the hill, whence
there is a fine prospect towards the
E. and N. The side of the moun-
tain here slopes away very abruptly;
and below, as far as the eye can
reach, lie low but sharp ridges
covered with brushwood, intersecting
and meeting so as to form -a multi-
tude of tiny valleys, in most of
which rice is cultivated. The view
from this point has received the
name of Kujuku Tanif or the
Ninety-nine Valleys.
The descent from the village of
Kano-zan is by a good jinrikisha
road through Sakurai to
Teiijiii-yama or Minato {Inn
Fukumoto-ro), a prettily situated
vill., containing a few sake breweries
and soy manufactories, the produce
of which is shipped in junks to
Tokyo ; but the population consists
chiefly of fisher-folk. A smooth
sandy beach with a W. aspect
stretches for ^ m. along the shore
to the N., affording excellent bath-
ing. About a mile away rises Myoken-
yama, which commands a fine view.
Ascending from the Minato >gawa
^nd following along some cliffs, the
road passes through a lofty tunnel
hewn in the solid rock, before de-
scending again to Take-ga-okx and
Hagyu. Here the local wonder is a
small cavern containing a well,
called Kogane-ido, or the Golden
Welly on account of a golden scum
that rises on its surface. More tun-
nelling characterises the coast road
from Hagyu to
Kanaya {Inn, Kaji-ya). This
place possesses an interesting relic
of antiquity, known by the name of
Tesson Daigongen, which is kept
carefully in a small chamber in the
rock immediately behind a little
Shinto chapel. It is a disc of iron,
between 4 and 5 ft. in diameter and
some 3 in. thick, split into two
unequal parts.
Local tradition says that it was dis-
covered in. the bay about six centuries
ago by the fishermen of the vill., then
consisting of eighteen families, but that
its Veight was so great as to render un-
availing their united efforts to bring it
ashore. They therefore implored it to
divide itself in two, promising that they
would then land it, and worship it as their
patron deity. After passing all uight in
anxious expectation, they found that their
petition had l>een heard ; and fishing up
the two pieces, they placed them in the
rock chamber, where the split disc has
remained enshrined ever since us the looftl
god.
[Instead of continuing along the
coast from Kanaya to Motona,
it is pleasant to make the ascent
of Nokoj^iri-yaniii on the way.
This mountain takes its name,
which means ' Saw Mountain,*
from the serrated ridge of peaks
that follow each other in regular
gradation from the highest on
the E. down to the sea-shore.
Bound the promontory thus
formed, passes the ordinary
road to Motona. A curious
feature of Nokogiri-yama is a
set of stone images of the
Five Hutidred Bakan, scattered
over the mountain side. Be-
sides these, there is a shrine
hewn out of the living rook,
in the centre of which is a
stone effigy of the person to
whose initiative the carving of
the other five hundred images
was due. The view from the
point called Mi-Jiarashi, 850 ft.
above the sea, is magnificent.
Westward rises the perfect foim
of Fuji above the low coast of
Sagami, while to the S. a sue*
180
Route 19. — Hitachi, Shimosa, Kazusa, S Boshu,
cession of bays and promon-
tories marks the W. coast of
Boshu. First comes the vill. of
Ypshihama, bent at an obtuse
angle along the sea-shore, and
beyond it the cape under which
nestles the little town of Kachi-
yama. To tlife E. are the higher
peaks of Nokogiri-yama, and in
front the mass of lesser hills
intervening between the ridge
and the valley of the Tenjin-
yama-gawa. The lighthouse
on Kwannon-saki is a promi-
nent landmark bearing N.W.
byN.]
Motona is continuous with Hoda,
a convenient place from which to
make the ascent of Nokogiri-yama
if one is taking this route in the
reverse direction. At Hoda the
road leaves the sea-shore. It is a
pleasant walk to
Kachiyaiim (Inn, Nakajin), for-
merly the castle town of a small
Daimyo named Honda Tsushima-
no-Kami. From Kachiyama the
road strikes up into the hills, passes
through a long tunnel by the quar-
ries of Nokogiri-yama, and descends
to Nago, 4^ hrs. from Tenjin-yama
by jinrikisha. From Nago to Tate-
yama is about 1 hr. walk, in-
cluding a glance at the temple of
Hachiman, situated in a grove 200
yds. to the 1. of the way. The porch
has some good modern carvings,
and a coffered ceiling containing
seventy two compartments with a
dragon carved in relief, the design
in each compartment being different.
Within is another coffered ceiling,
decorated with paintings of birds
and flowers.
Hojo (/nw, Yoshino-an), though
given in the itinerary as 13 cho from
Tateyama, is practically almost
continuous with the latter.
Taieyinna [Inn^ Tsuru-ya) com-
mands an incomparable view of Fuji
across Tokyo Bay. Nowhere else does
the mountain seem to rise to so great
a height, completely dominating the
Oyama and Amagi ranges which
extend r. and 1., while on either
hand the shores of the bay stretch
round to form a fitting frame for
this lovely picture. A steamer
leaves Tateyama daily for Tokyo at-
about 10 A. M. calling at several
places along the coast, and reaches
Tokyo in 7 hrs. under favour-
able circumstances. Another leaves
about noon for Uraga.
6. — Tateyama to Kominato.
Itinerary.
TATEYAMA to :— BL Cho. M.
Hojo 13 1
Takehara 2 5 5^
Matsuda 1 20 3^
Wada 1 18 3|
Emi 1 7 .3 .
Maebara 2 31 7
Amatsu 1 26 4 J
KOMINATO .... 1 8 2^
•
Total 12 15 30^
The 4 ri walk separating Tate-
yama at the entrance of Tokyo Bay
from Matsuda on the Pacific, is a
short cut across the tiny province
of Awa at its narrowest part. From
Mati^Udai (Inn, Abura-ya), there is
a jinrikisha road along the coast
to AniatsUf 1 ri 3 cho from Komi-
nato.
Wada (Inn^ Kaneko-ya).
£iiii (Inn, Hashimoto-ya) is a
place of some size, standing in what
for this part of the country appears
a wide valley, about 1 square mile
in extent.
Mtiebarai (Inn, Yoshida-ya) stands
at the mouth of a small river,
the Kamogawa, whence the road
leads through a pine-wood and over
a sandy shore to Amatsu. A steep
promontory has to be climbed before
descending again to the sea at
Kominato (Inn, Kadokuma).
This village, though so remote and
difficult of access — for it is hemmed
in on all sides between the moun-
tains and the sea — is known
throughout Japan as the birthplace
of the great Buddhist saint, Nichi-
ren.
Kominaio.
181
According to some, the original site of
the temple founded by Nichiren himself on
the very spot which gave him birth, is
now under a stretch of sea called Taino-
urof said to be the resort of numbers of tai
fish, which are held sacred by the fisher-
men. Another tradition is, that from the
day of the saint's birth until he was seven
days old, two of these fish five feet long
nsed daily to appear in the pond in his
father's garden, whence the spot, since
covered by the waves, took the name of
• Tai Bay.' In any case, there is only just
snfiicient space between the sea and the
Bteep hills behind for the row of houses
forming the double vill. of Kominato and
Uchi-ura.
The temple raised to the memory
of Nichiren is called Tanjdjh or
« the Temple of the Birth.' On the
1. after entering the outer gate, is a
small square building over the well
which nominally supplied the water
used to wash the infant saint, —
nominally only, because the original
spot was overwhelmed by a tidal
wave in 1498. We next pass
through a huge gate, and see before
us the Main Temple, an unpainted
wooden building, 72 ft. square inside,
built in 1846. The porch has some
excellent carvings of tortoises and
lions ' heads, and the birds in the
brackets of the transverse beams
are good. The interior is very
simple, its only decoration being
four large panels carved with
dragons, and a coffered ceiling
with the Mikado's- crest painted
in each compartment. On the
altar stands a handsome black
and gold shrine, containiug a
life-like image of the saint, who is
represented as reading from a richly
gilt scroll containing a portion of
the Hoke-kyd. The doors of the
shrine are closed except during
service, when they are thrown open
in order that the worshippers may
gaze upon Nichiren's countenance.
Two and a half ri from Kominato,
and 1^ ri to the N. of Amatsu,
stands the vill. of Kiyosumi, cele-
brated for its temple dedicated to
Kokuz5 Bosatsu. Kiyosumi lies
about 1,000 ft. above the sea, and
being free from mosquitoes owing
to the dryness of the ta£E of which
the hills consist, is much frequented
during the summer months by
Japanese desiring to escape the
damp heat of Tokyo. The temple
contains some good carvings.
Those not caring to return from
Kominato the way they came, may
follow the coast road right round
the peninsula. This road diverges
from the route already given at
Matsuda. The itinerary is as fol-
lows.
KOMINATO to :— Bi. Chd. M.
Matsuda 8 13 20^
Shirako 1 6 2^
Asaina 33 2^
Shirahama 2 27 5|
Mera 1 34 4^
Sunosaki 2 27 6^
TATEYAMA .... 3 6 7i
Total 21 1 51i
The road is mostly sandy and
heavy for jinrikishas. The best ac-
commodation is at Matsuda and
Shirahama, the latter vill. being at
the extreme S. point of the penin-
sula. Here, on the low headland of
Nojima, stands a fine lighthouse, the
light of which is visible for 20 m.
This place enjoys a much warmer
climate than other parts of the pro-
vince. Luxuriant beds of jonquils
and other flowers abound near the
sea-shore, and fill the air with their
fragrance at Christmas-time. The
fishing boats of Mera put out in
large numbers during the season to
catch bonitos round Vries Island
and others of the chain extending
S. towards Hachijo. The scenery
from Mera onwards is very pretty.
182
Route 20. — Shiobara District.
EOUTE 20.
The Shiobaba District.
nasu. preumachi. ascent op kei-
cho-zan. na8uno-tama.
Nasn (Inn, * Nasuno-ya) is
reached by the Northern Railway
from Tokyo in 4^ hrs. (see Route
24). This place is an outcome of
railway enterprise ; so too is the re-
demption of a large extent of the
moorland which here stretches on
all sides, the soil having been found
well-adapted to fruit cultivation.
Nasu is also the nearest station to
the favourite hot-springs of Shio-
bara, a place formerly out of the
beaten track. Railway communi-
cation has, however, brought it
within easy reach of Tokyo, and it
is now much frequented by all
classes of Japanese. The itinerary
from the station is as follows.
NASU to .— Ri. Cho. M.
Sekiya 3 — 7i
Owami 1 18 3^
Fukuwata 24 If
Shiogama 13 1
FURUMACHI... 8 i
Total 5 37 14
An excellent road has been con-
structed all the way, practicable
for jinrikishas and carriages. As
far as
Sekiya, at the foot of the moun-
tain, it is perfectly level and goes in a
straight line across the plain, which
is covered with dwarf chestnut-
trees,— a part of the journey apt to
be found very trying in summer,
from the absence of shade of any
kind. Pheasants and other game
are plentiful in the plain, while
in the Shiobara mountains bears
are still occasionally shot by the
peasant hunters. After leaving
Sekiya, the road follows the course
of the Hokigawa as it wends
its way through deeply wooded
ravines to the plain. At various
points glorious views are afforded
of the river below, while a number
of cascades lend variety to the
scene. At the place where the
valley narrows until it seems little
more than a gorge, the road be-
comes highly picturesque. Every
summer it suffers severely from
the heavy rains; but a staff of
men is generally in readiness to
effect repairs, so that jinrikishas
can always pass. The Owami
springs, with a hut or two, are
seen from the roadway, at the
bottom of an almost precipitous
descent. They are in the bed of
the river, and are used only by the
poorest class of visitors.
FiikiiwAta (Inns, Matsu-ya and
others) is, next to Furumachi, the
most popular place in the Shio-
bara district. At the entrance to
the hamlet of Shiogama, a stone
has been erected to the memory
of the famous courtesan, Takao,
who was born near this spot.
[Here a bridge crosses the river,
leading to the hot-springs of
Shionoyu (16 cho), sitciated in
the bed of an affluent of the
Hokigawa. The road to these
springs is practicable for jin-
rikishas, ajad commodious inns
have been built on the moun-
tain side close by.]
Fnrumachi ( Inns, • Fusen-ro,
* Kome-ya, Aizu-ya) lies on the r.
bank of th e river, and i^the principal
vill. in the district. It is shut in
by mountains, rising in beautifully
wooded peaks,' one above another
around it. Although situated at
no great height (1,750 ft.), Furu-
machi is cooler than many places
at higher altitudes, and is free
from mosquitoes and .other insect
pests. Visitors would do well to
take provisions with them, as the
native fare here lacks variety.
Being near the old highway
to the province of Aizu, a new
road was built some ten years
FurumachL Arayu, Ascent of Keicho-zan.
188
ago, during the height of the road-
making fever, to connect this dis-
trict with Wakamatsu. Solid
embankments supported it, and
well-constructed bridges spanned
the streams. But after a short
time it became utterly impassable
for a distance of 8 ri from Furu-
machi, the traffic over the route
being so insignificant that the
-expense of maintaining it, damaged
as it incessantly was by landslips
and heavy rains, was found to be
out of all proportion to local re-
quirements. It remains to-day
as a picturesque ruin, and the old
road leading from Imaichi near
Nikko is the only one now used.
The whole Shiobara district is
dotted with thermal springs. The
water at Furumachi is moderate
in temperature and mostly free
from mineral deposit ; the other
springs are somewhat saline. A
favourite midday resort for visitors
at Furumachi is Sumaki or Taki-
no-yu (9 cho), in a hollow of the
hilla with a decent inn. Here the
water is led in pipes from a spring
just above the inn, and & hot
douche can be taken. The temple
of Myd-onji, a plain thatched
structure in the vill., is of little
interest. The paintings of the
sixteen - petalled chrysanthemum
on the ceiling have been ruthlessly
blotted out, that flower being the
crest of the Imperial family and
its use by others now strictly
prohibited. The only relic in the
possession of the priests — and it
is an odd relic in a place of
worship — is a piece of the ward-
robe of the frail beauty above-
mentioned.
A pleasant excursion may be
made to Arayii, lit. the Violent
Spring, 2 ri from Furumachi.
The path leads directly behind the
Komeya Inn at the head of the
vill., and over the hills in sharp
zigzags. The views on the way
are amongst the finest in the vici-
nity.
[Near the top of the pass^n the
1. is a tarn called Onuma,
separated from a smaller called
Konunia, the latter situated in.
a deeper hollow not visible
from the road. A path follows
the 'Upper edge of these tarns
down to the Shionoyu springs,
and, with pretty glimpses of
the valleys, also makes a good
walk from Furumachi.]
Arayu, which is simply a cluster
of mediocre inns, lies on the side of
a hill rendered sterile by the
sulphureous water that breaks
out in several spots. The aspect
of the place is very desolate.
Arayu is on a mountain road to
Nikko, frequently taken by pedes-
trians. The distances are approx-
imately as follows.
Arayu to : — Ri. Cho. M.
Fujiwara 5 — 12^^
Okuwa 3 — 7i
Imaichi 1 15 3f
Total 9 15 23
Thence train to Nikko in ^ hr.
The accommodation en rcmte is poor,
Arayu is the best starting-
point for the ascent of Keicho-zan,
3.^ ri, one of the peaks of Takahara-
yama (5,880 ft.), the highest moun-
tain of the range separating the
province of Shimotsuke from Iwa-
shiro. The walk is somewhat
rough and monotonous for about
1 hr., all view being shut out by
woods and low ridges on both sides
until the bed of the Akagawa is
reached, where the ascent of the
Takahara-toge begins. From the
top of the pass to the small lake of
Benten-ga-ike is a distance of 1 ri,
and to the summit a steep climb
of 20 cho more. The view from the
summit is very extensive, em-
bracing Fuji, Nantai-zan, Gwassan,
lide-san, Bandai-san, and nume-
rous minor peaks. The shrine on
Keicho-zan is dedicated to Saruta^
hiko, and the chief time of
pilgrimage is spring. An early
184
Fiottte 21,^-Bandai-8an,
start is necessary if the ascent
from Furumachi is to be made in
one day. An alternative is to
make it on the way to Nikko.
Nnsiino-yama can be reached in
one day from the hamlet of Nasu.
Jinrikishas are taken to the hot-
springs of Itamura at the foot of
the mountain, where there are
several good inns. Nasuno-yama
has a fortress-like aspect when
seen from the S. Its side is
honeycombed with hundreds of sol-
fataras.
Near Itamura is the Senthd-i^ki^ or
Death-Stone, famous in a legend which
has Ijeen tli-amatised as one of the iVe, or
Lyric Dramas of mediaeval Japanese
literature. The story is that a Buddhist
priest, Genno by name, while journeying
across the desolate moor of Nasu, pauses
to rest l)eneath this rock. A spirit forth-
with appears and warns him that, hy
remaining in that place, he is risking his
life, for that not men only, but even birds
and beasts perish if they do but touch it.
The spirit and the chorus then recount to
him in verse how once upon a time there
lived a maiden, as learned and accom-
plished RS she was sui^passingly beautiful,
whom the Emperor Tol)a-no-In took to
liimself as his favourite concubine, and
for her sake neglected all the affairs of
state. At last one evening, on the occa-
Bion of a banquet at the Palace, the lights
suddenly went out, and from the girl's
body there darted forth a supernatural
coruscation that illumined the whole
scene, while the Mikado himself was
struck down by disease. On the repre-
sentations of the court magician, Abe-no-
Yasunari, the vile witch— for the pre-
tended beauty was evidently nothing
better than a witch— was driven from the
Imperial presence, and flew away through
the air to the moor of Nasu, where she
resumed her original shape, that of a
fox. In the second act of the play, the
spirit appearing again, confesses to the
good priest that itself is none other than
the wraith of the witch whose story has
just been told, and relates furthermore
how, after escaping from the Palace, she
was hunted by dogs over the moor of
Nasu, — the origin, as the chorus obliging-
ly stops to explain, of the Japanese sport
of inn ou monOf or 'dog-hunting.' The
priest then exorcises the evil spirit by
nijeans of Buddhistic incantations. But
his exorcism seems not to have been
X>ermanently effectual, if, as is asserted,
poisonous exhalations still issue from the
Death-Stone thrice every day. The stone
itself is of insignificant size, but is still
regarded by the peasantry with supersti-
tioos dread.
ROUTE 21.
Bandai-san.
Train by the Northern Eailwray
from Tokyo (TJeno station) to
• Motomiya in 8 hrs. Whole time of
trip, 4 days.
Motomiya (Inuy Mito-ya), itself
an unattractive town, is the best
place from which to reach the
volcano of Bandai-san, noted for
its terrific eruption on the morning-
of the 15th July, 1888. The itiner-
ary to the town of Inawashiro,
situated at the foot of the moun-
tain, is as follows.
MOTOMIYA to :— Bi. CU. M,
Atami 4 — 9|
Yamagata 2 — 5
INAWASHIEO... 4 — 9f
Total 10 — 24^
Leaving Motomiya by jinrikisha
in the morning, Inawashiro will be
reached early in the afternoon.
The road as far as Atami (decent
accommodation) is flat and fairly
good in fine weather. Here we join
the road from Koriyama station,
which is 1 ri longer than that from
Motomiya. From Atami to Yama-
gata, a vill. on the shores of Lake
Inawashiro, the road becomes hilly
afad the scenery more varied. A
part of the way lies by the side of a
canal, which has been constructed
for purposes of irrigation. As one
approaches the cascade formed by
the water of the canal falling over
a cliff, it will be found advisable to
walk up the narrow path, steep as
it is, rather than follow the wind-
ings of the main road in jinrikisha.
From
Tamagatn {Inn, Kashima-ya),
small steamers cross the lake to T(mO'
kuchi, the landing-place for Waka-
matsu, the capital of the province
(see next Boute). Lake Inawcuhiro
is a large sheet of water measuring-
Bmidai-san*
185
a.boixt 4 ri in every direction ; and
is almost surrounded by a succes-
sion of thickly wooded hills, above
"which, on the N. sbore, towers
the sharp summit of Bandai-san.
This lake is not a true crater
lake, as has been supposed, but is
probably a depression formed by
evisceration of the ground, result-
ing from the copious outpourings of
volcanic matter in its vicinity. Its
principal feeder used to be the river
Nagase, the upper course of which
was entirely stopped by the debris
swept down during the eruption of
1888. The lake is now supplied
mainly by the Sukawa, flowing
from. Dake-yama. It is plentifully
stocked with salmon-trout and
other fish. The road follows the
shores of the lake until the N.
end is reached, whence it leads
over a wide cultivated area to
Inawasliiro (Inn, Shio-ya), a
dull country town lying on the
S. E. base of Bandai-san. From
here the ascent of the mountain
and the circuit of the devastated
-district may most conveniently be
made.
Bandai-san (6,000 ft.) is the
name usually given to a group of
' peaks consisting of 0*Bandai, Eo-
Bandai (destroyed), Kushi-ga-mine,
and Akahani-yama, surrounding
an elevated plain called Numa-no-
taira. This group, standing on
the N. side of Lake Inawashiro,
forms a very conspicuous object in
the landscape. When seen from the
town of Wakamatsu, on the S.W.
side, it appears as a single pointed
peak. 0-Bandai, or Great Bandai,
is the most prominent of the peaks.
Koma-no- taira is supposed to be
the remains of the original crater,
and the peaks mentioned are pro-
bably parts of the wall that encir-
cled it. 'Within it were several
small lakes or pools, as its name
imphes. It was also covered with
dense forests, which were destroyed
in the last eruption.
•• On the morning of July 16th, 1688, the
weather in the Bandai distiict was fine,
there being scarcely a cloud; and a gentle
breeze was blowing from the W.N.W,
Soon after 7 o'clock, curious rumblinf^
noises were heard, which the people
thought to be t)ie sound of distant
thunder, often heard among the moun<-
taiu-tops. At about half-past 7, there
occurred a tolerably severe earthquBke,
which lasted more than 20 seconds. This
was followed soon after bv a most violent
shaking of the ground. At 7.45, while the
ground was still heaving, the eruption
of Ko-Bandai-san took place. A oense
column of steam and dust shot into the
air, making a tremendous noise. Explo-
sions followed one after another, in all to
the number of 16 or 20, the steam on each
occasion except the last being described
as having attained a height above the
peaks about equivalent to that of O-Ban^
dai as seen from Inawashiro, that is to
say, some 1,280 metres, or 4,200 ft. The
last explosion, however, is said to have
projected its discharge almost horizoin-
tally, towards the valley on the N. And«
considering the topography of the moun-
tain and the form of the crater, it ie
probable that previous discharges were
also more or less inclined to the vevtical,
in a northerly direction. Tne main
eruptions lasted for a minute or more,
and were accompanied by thundering
sounds which, though rapidly lessening
in intensity, continued for nearly two
houi's. Meanwhile the dust and steam
rapidly ascended, and spread into a great
cloud like an open umm^Ua in shape, at
a height equal_to at least three or four
times that of 0-Baudai. This cloud was
gradually wafted away by the wind in tb
south-easterly direction. At the inmie-
diate foot of the mountain there was a
rain of hot scalding ashes, accompanied
by pitchy darkness. A little later, dark-
ness was still great, and a smart shower of
rain fell, lasting for about five minutes.
The rain was quite warm. These pheno-
mena, as well as the terrcn: and bewilder-
ment which they caused among the peasan-
try, were described in thrilling terms by the
newspapers of the day. While darkness
as aforesaid still shrouded the region, »
mighty avalanche of earth and rock
rushed at terrific speed down the mountain
slopes, buried the Nagase valley with its
villages and people, and devastated an
area of more than 70 square kilometres,
or 27 square miles."— (Professors Sekiy»
and Kikuchi.)
The total number of lives lost in this
great cataclysm, which blew a massive
mountains to piece, was 461. Four hamlets
were completely buried under the dis-
rupted matter, along with their inhabi-
tants and cattle, and seven villages were
partially destroyed. Whole forests were
levelled by the shock, and rivers were
blocked up by the ejected mud and
rocks. No such disaster had happened
186
Boute 22. — Frinn Niigata to Wakamatsu,
in Japan since the famous eruption of
Asama-yama in 1873.
The ascent of Bandai-san from
Inawasliiro is usually made by
walking for about 2 m. along
the old highway which leads to
the West Coast. A path then
turns sharp r. over the grassy
moor, and for a considerable dis-
tance is a gradual climb. When
the higher and thickly wooded
part of the mountain is reached,
the ascent becomes much steeper.
, Looking backwards, glorious views
of the extensive plain in which
Wakamatsu is situated are ob-
tained at various points. A walk
of about 3 hrs. should bring one to
a point on the W. side of the
mountain and not far from the
crater wall, where the full force
of the explosion may be best
realised. The awful scene of havoc
bursts upon one with bewildering
suddenness. The path then de-
scends, and passes over the sea of
mud and rocks in the direct line
of eruption, till the hill shutting
out the valley of the Nagase-gawa
18 encountered. Crossing this and
walking over the site of the annihi-
lated hamlet of Kawakami, we next
come 3 m. further down the valley
to the hamlet of Nagasaka, whose
inhabitants, in endeavouring to
escape to the hills opposite, were
overwhelmed by the sea of mud.
At th^ vill. of Mine, less than f m.
from Inawashiro, a deflected por-
tion of the muddy stream was
arrested, and may be seen piled up
several feet thick. Great changes
have since taken place in the ap-
pearance of the devastated area,
through the effects of erosion upon
the rugged masses of rock and mud
that had been left by the cata-
strophe. The dammed-up waters
of the Nagase-gawa now form a
large lake, 6 or 6 m. long and about
1 m. broad. But taken altogether,
the spectacle is still one of the
most weird and engrossing to be
seen in any part of the world.
The circuit of the mountain
as here described occupies a day,,
but leaves little time for investiga-
tion of any kind. Provisions
should be obtained at Inawashiro
before starting. Guides are al-
ways procurable.
ROUTE 22.
From Niioata to Wakamatsit
(alzu), and to ivjotomita on
THB NOBTHEBN EaILWAT.
Itinerary.
NIIGATA to :— Bl Cho. M.
Kameda 3 13 8^
Yasuda 5 28 14
Komatsu 3 11 8
Iwaya (Mikawa) 2 4 5^^
Tsugawa 2 18 6
Torii 3 6 7f
Nozawa 4 10 10^
Banee 4 34 12
WAKAMATSU... 3 7 7f
Total 32 23 79^
This journey, practicable for jin-
rikishas, but over rougl^ and moun-
tainous roads, may be made in 2^
days. One ri is saved by taking
boat on the Shinano-gawa from
Niigata to Kameda. The first
night*s halt should be made at
Kouiatsn {Inrit Komatsu-ya).
[At Tsiigawa, the Agano-gawa
is often resorted to by those
taking this route in the in-
verse direction. Niigata can
thus be reached in one day
from Tsugawa ; but if it is
slack water, a halt must be
made somewhere for the night.
The boats are about 45 ft. long^
Eoute 23. — From Koriyama to Taira d Mito,
187
by 6 ft. broad, and are pro-
pelled by one man sculling at
the stern, and another pulling
a short-bladed oar, worked in a
loop of wistaria at the bow.
For about 12 m. the river^
hemmed in by lofty cliffs,
studded with rocks visible
and sunken, making several
abrupt turns, and shallowing
in many places, hurries the
boat swiftly along. The rapids
are on a small scale, and any-
thing but formidable.]
The p»rt of the route between
Iwaya and Nozawa will be found
the stiffest, but the most pictur-
esque. The road passes along the
side of a ridge above the rapid
Agano-gawa, with fine grey cliffs
on its further side, and commands
excellent views of the abrupt pre-
cipices of lide-san and Myojin-
tskke on the S.W. There is fair
accommodation at
Kozawa (Inn, Hotei-ya). Leaving
Bange (several inns), the road
enters the cultivated plain in which
Wakamatsu lies.
Wakamatsn {Inns, *Shimizu-ya,
Mroato-ya), formerly the castle-
town of the Prince of Aizu, is
situated nearly in the centre of a
great oval plain of from 10 to 12 ri
in its longest diameter, constituting
what is properly called the Aizu
country. The plain is fertile, culti-
vated with rice, and watered by
many streams that descend from
the surrounding mountains and
unite to form Lake Inawashiro.
The Aizu clan specially distinpuished
itself fighting on the Shogun's side
during the civil war of 1868— indeed, their
enemies termed them 'the root of the
rebellion/ Though their cause was a
losing one, their gallantry is none the
less remembered. Even lads of fourteen
and fifteen years followed their fathers
to the field.
The Daimyo's castle stood on a
hill, a short distance from the town ;
but it has been razed to the ground.
With the exception of some fine
old trees, dilapidated gateways,
and remains of moats, nothing re-
mains to attest the former glory
of the place. Wakamatsu is a con-
venient point from which to make
the ascent of Bandai-san, described
in Eoute 21. A pleasant walk can
be taken to Higashi Oyama {Inn,
Shin-taki), a village of tea-houses 1
ri to the N. of the town, situated in
a deep ravine through which flows a
stream of considerable volume, and
much frequented on account of its
hot-springs. The waters, which
gush out of the rocks on the r.
bank of the stream, have neither
taste nor smeU. Their temperature
varies from 122° to 131° F.
Leaving Wakamatsu, jinrikishais
are taken to Tonokuchi, a distance
of 4 ri, whence small steamers ply
across Lake Inawashiro to Yama-
gata (see p. 184). Then by jinri-
kisha to Motomiya, 6 ri, whence
rail to Tokyo.
EOUTE 23.
From Koriyama thbodgh the
Province of Iwaki to Taira
AND Mito.
Though the province of Iwaki is
not generally considered attractive
to tourists, the following itinerary
is given for the benefit of such as
may desire to traverse it.
Starting from Koriyama, 7 hrs.
from Tokyo on the Northern Eail-
way, we take the road leading
through Miharu to Taira on the
Pacific Coast, and thence diverge
S. to Mito in the province of Hita-
chi, 5 hrs. from Tokyo by rail.
Time, 4 or 5 days.
J85 Bonte 23,-^Fr(m Eonyama to Taira d Mito.
Itinerary.
KORIYAMA to :— RL Cho. M,
MIHARU 3 11 8
Kadosawa 3 10 8
Ono-niimachi ... 3 15 8^
Kawamai 4 8 10^
TJwadaira 4 3 10
TAIRA 2 14 5J
Yumoto 1 30 4>k
Tanabe 1 33 4|
Sekida 2 33 7
Kamioka 1 31 4f
Takahagi 3 22 8f
Sukegawa 4 5 10
Onuma 2 15
Ishigami-Sotojuku 2 2 5
Tabiko 2 15 6
MITO 2 31 7
Total 46 11 113
The road is practicable for jin-
rikishas throughout, but mostly
heavy travelling.
Miharu {Inn, Omiya). Between
this town and Kadosawa, a small
vill. with poor accommodation, the
Kazakoshi-toge, the only ascent of
any note on the way, is encoun-
tered. Bice and tobacco are exten-
sively cultivated in the neigh-
bourhood. Ono-niinmchi (Inn, Kiku-
ya), which is about half-way to
Taira, may be made the end of the
first day's journey. From Kavja-
mai to Uwadaira the scenery im-
proves, the road following a nar-
row vaUey between low hills.
Beyond
Tnira (Inn and resit., Sumiyoshi),
which lies in a beautifully fertile
plain, the country becomes flat and
uninteresting. Tumoto (Inn by
Anataki Tokujiro) possesses hot-
springs of some local celebrity. Near
Tanabe is the port of Onahama.
There are hot-springs at Kamioka
(Inn, Tokai-ro). Accommodation can
be had at TahaJmgi (Inn, Kashiwa-
ya), and at Sukegawa (Inn, Ebi-
ya). Between Onuma and Owada
the road leaves the coast, and strikes
inland to Mito (see p. 173).
i
\
1
SECTION II.
NORTHERN JAPAN
(Routes 24 — ^1.
Eoiite 24:. — Northern Railway d Oshu Kaido.
191
ROUTE 24.
Thb Nobthesn Railway and the
Oshu Kaido.
vbom tokyo to sendai and mobi-
oka by bail. fb03i fukushima
TO YONEZAWA BY THE KUBIKO
KAIDO. FBOM YONEZAWA vid.
BANDAI-SAN TO MOTOMIYA. FBOM
IGHIN08EKI TO SHIOGAMA DOWN
THE KITAKAMI-GAWA. ASCENT OF
OANJU-SAN. FBOM MOEIOKA TO
AOMOBI BY THE OSHU-KAIDO. THE
TAKEYAMA PENINSULA.
Names
of
Remarks.
s^
Stations.
TOKYO (Ueno).
4 m.
Oji
See p. 05.
Change trains
-wj* •■•••••••••••••••••••
in eomingi
6i
Akabane Jet
8. for Shim-
bashi (To-
1 kyo) and
12f
Urawa.
Yokohama.
\&i
Omiya Jet.
m
Hasuda.
«i
Kuki.
m
Knrihashi.
88
Koga.
^Change trains
( for Mito line
48
Qyama
< and for sta>
/ tions on the
^ Ryomo By.
57
Ishibashi.
65}
utsunomiYa
( Change trains
i for Nikko.
761
Nagakubo.
83}
Yalta.
sio
Nasu
lAlight for
( Shiobara.
•
W
Kuroiso.
107i
Toyohara.
SHIRAKAWA.
113}
183
Yabuki.
ISO
Sukagawa.
137}
146
Kdriyama
Road to Taira.
jAlight for
( Bandai-san.
Motomiya
162
Nitionmatsa.
157}
Matsukawa.
166
,174}
nsi}
1^7}
195}
200}
2(?4i
208}
215}
220}
230
242}
240}
2504
264}
272
281}
287}
208}
S06
316}
328
FUKUSHIMA..
Kori.
Kosugo.
ShiralBhi.
Okawara,
Tsukinoki.
Iwanuma.
Masuda.
senbai
Iwaklri.
Matsushima.
Kogota.
8emine.
Ishikoshi.
Hanaizuml.
ICHIN03£KI.
Maezawa.
Mizusawa.
Kui-osawajiri.
Hanamaki.
Hizome.
MORIOKA .
f Road to Yone-
C zawa.
f Branch line to
\ Shiogama.
I Road to Akita
' (see Rte.
\
26).
/'Present ter-
\ minus. Road
1 to Akita (see
C p. 204).
The Nortliem Eailway, from
Tokyo to Aomori is open as far as
Morioka. The line follows the
route _of the old highway called
the Oshu Kaido for a great
part of the way to Sendai, where
it makes a deep bend to the E.
to avoid a hilly portion of the
country, but agaiii^ joins it near
Ichinoseki. The Oshu Kaido is
well-maintained throughout its
length of 191 ri from Tokyo to
Aomori, and remains nne of the
finest roads in the Empire. The
pines, cryptomerias, and other
conifers lining it are frequently
seen from the carriage windows ;
but not until the train reaches
Utsunomiya, the junction for
Nikko, with the glorious range of
mountains rising in the back->
ground, can the railway rout« be
said to offer much in the way of
natural beauty. The best places at
which to break the journey are
Fukushima and Sendai. The
Northern line branches off from the
Tokyo-Takasaki- Yokokawa Railway
at Omiya (see Route 12).
A short distance beyond Knri-
192
Boute 24> — KortJieiii Railway d Oshu Kaido,
Iiasliij the Tonegawa is crossed by
a. fine iron bridge.
The Toneprawa, which waters the plain
•of T9kyo, rises on Monju-san in the pro-
vince of Kotsuke, and after a course of
170 m., empties itself into the Pacific at
Choshi, while a second arm falls into
Tokj'O Bay. Lajyoons line its lower
course, and from both mouths sandbanks
stretch out far into the sea. The Daiya-
^wa, which flows past Nikko, is one of
its affluents. Owing to the volume of the
river and the flatness of the surrounding
country, inundations with disastrous re-
sults are frequent. The name Tone is a
relic of the time when the Ainos wandered
over Eastern Japan, before the occupation
, of the country by the Japanese. It is a
corruption of the Aino word fanne, * long,*
this nver having naturally been called the
Long River, in contradistinction to the
ftmailer ones of the same district.
Kogn {Inn, Ota-ya) was formerly
the residence of a Daimyo. River
steamers run from here to Tokyo
daily, making the journey in about
14 hrs. (see p. 64). Beyond this
place the mountains come in view,
the peaks of Tsukuba on the r.
And the Ashikaga hills to the 1.,
with the giants of Nikko looming
in the distance ahead.
Oyoma (Inn, Eado-ya) is a
prosperous town, where the Mito
Railway branches off to the r. and
the Byomo Railway to Maebashi to
the 1,
Utsnnoilliya (Inn, * Shiroki-ya),
formerly the castle-town of a Dai-
myo, is now the capital of the pre-
fecture of Tochigi. The town
suffered severely during the civil
war of 1868. It takes its name
from the large Shinto temple of
Fvia-ara-yama no Jinja, or Nikko
Daimyojin, dedicated to the me-
mory of a son of the Emperor Sujin.
This prince, who belongs to the legen-
dary period of Japanese history, is said to
have been created ruler of Eastern Japan,
and to have founded several families of
local chiefs.
Leaving Utsunomiya, the line
begins to ascend, and passes
through a pleasantly wooded
country until it enters the wide
plain of Nasu, in the midst of which
lies the little viU. of
Nasn (Inn, Nasuno-ya), whidi.
has grown around the station o£
the same name. It is a busy place in.
summer, on account of the visitors
to the Shiobara district, described
in Route 20. The line continues ta
ascend in more or less steep gra>
dients until its highest point is
reached at an elevation of 1,160 ft^
at
Sliirakawa (Inn, Isami-ya), a
flourishing little town, and for-
merly the seat of a Daimyo named
Abe. The train .passes within
sight of the ramparts of the old
castle. The town is situated on
the upper waters of the Abuknma-
gawa, a fine river which rises on
Asahi-dake, and flowing N. dis-
charges into the Bay of Sendai, —
length 125 m. from its source. One
of the most stubborn contests in
the war of the Restoration took
place around here in 1868. A road
branches off from Shirakawa to
Wakamatsu, the capital of Aizn,
17i ri distant.
Koriyiima (Inn, Ebi-ya) is a flon-
rishing town, in the vicinity of
which silkworm breeding and silk
manufacture are extensively cap*
ried on. A road from this place
leads to Bandai-san, but that
from
Motomiya (Inn Mito-ya), the
station beyond, is to be preferred
(see Route 21).
NihonmAt8n (Inn, Yamada-ya)
is a pictui'esquely situated town,
built on the sides of an exceedingly
steep hiU, and extends a ri in length.
It is one of the principal silk-pro-
ducing towns in the province.
The valley of the Abukuma-gawa
opens out after
Matsiikawa is passed, and the
broad sweep of the couatry to the
1. is very fine.
Fnkiisliima ( Inn, * Matsuba-
kwan) is the capital of the prefecture
of the same name, and was formerly
the castle-town of the Itakura
family. It is ^ good place at which
to break the journey northwards.
From Fukushima to Yonezatca.
i9a
Part of the castle was burnt during
the civil war of 1868. Fukushima
is an important centre of the trade
in raw silk and silkworms' eggs,
and during the season is the head-
quarters of the T5kyo silk-buyers.
The number of weU-constructed
buildings in European style gives
the town an unusual air of prospe-
rity. The pine-clad hill called
8hin6bu-yama, a prominent feature
in the landscape from the railway,
standing alone in the midst of the
plain with a Shinto temple and
public garden at the foot, is worth
a visit. A pleasant walk or ride
may be taken to a small temple
and pagoda of the Tendai sect,
known as the Shinohu Mojizuri
Kwannon, about 1^ ri from the
town. Within the pagoda are en-
shrined the Oo-cM Nyorai, or Five
Personifications of Wisdom. The
Mojizuri-ishi or ' letter rubbing-
stone/ is a huge block of granite
to which allusion is found in
Japanese poetry. Neither the
origin nor the appropriateness of
the name of the stone can be veri-
fied. The large stone Jiz5 behind
is a somewhat curious piece of
sculpture.
The extinct volcano of Azuma-
yama (6,365 ft.), the highest
mountain in the district, lies to the
W. of the town, and has a soKatara
at the top. It may be best as-
cended from here; but the distance
is estimated at over 8 ri, and guides
are difficult to obtain.
[Fukushima to Yonezawa by
THE KUBIKO KaIDO.
Itinerary.
. F 0 KUSHIM A to :— Ri. Chd. M.
Sekiba 2 20 6^
Odaki 2 7 5i
Ohira 2 12 5i
Kariyasu 2 8 5^
YONEZAWA ... 3 3 n
Total 12 14 30i
^ ■ - ■-
This road, known as the
Kuriko Kaido, from a long
tunnel through the mountain
of that name, leads over a
difficult mountainous district,
and is one of the finest pieces
of engineering in the North.
Completed about 1881, after
very heavy outlay owing to
unavoidable tunnelling, it at
once became the main road to
Yonezawa, — the old road, little
better than a track, which
passed over a ridge of Azuma-
yama at an altitude of about
2,500 ft., being impracticable
for vehicles of any kind. The
traffic over the new road is
considerable, railway commu-
nication to Fukushima hav-
ing brought Yonezawa so much
nearer to the chief mar-
kets. Carriages are available ;
but jinrikishas are much to be
preferred, the journey then
taking. from 8 to 10 hrs. A
good level road runs across
the plain to the foot of the
mountains at Sehiha, a poor
village. Just before entering
the first tunnel, 1 ri 10 chd
from Sekiba, the road is cut
out of the sheer cliff ; and the
stream, one of the tributaries
of the Abukuma-gawa, runs in
a deep gorge some hundreds of
ft. below. A short distance
beyond, the stream is crossed
by a bridge, and the road from
this point onward for about
a mile is very picturesque.
Odaki is a posting-station,^
where the accommodation is
poor, as indeed it is at every
halting_- place on the way.
From Odaki to Futatsu-goya^,
where, as the name implies,
there are two resting-houses,
it is a steady ascent, although
nowhere can the gradient on
the Fukushima side be said
to be very great. A second
tunnel of 3 chd 14 hen in
length is here encountered. A
194
Eoute 24, — Norifiem Eailway S Oshu Kaidd.
moderate descent is then made
to Ohira, whence the road
again ascends for 12 chb until
it reaches its highest level,
about 3,000 ft., where Kui-iko-
yama is pierced by a tunnel 8
cho 25 hen (over \ mile) in
len gth . The sides of the moun -
tains are densely wooded, the
oak being specially noticeable j
water also is plentiful. Pine
torches have to be purchased
at the entrance of the tunnel,
the passage through which is
very wet and rough. At in-
tervals, the tunnel is widened
so as to admit of carriages
crossing each other freely.
The telegraph line is carried
through the tunnel by means
of a cable enclosed in tubing.
On the Yonezawa side, at the
entrance, is a large stone
tablet recording the history of
the undertaking. It states
that the tunnel was com-
menced in December, 1876, and
finished in October, 1880, at a
cost of $126,900, of which sum
the Government made a grant
of $31,900, the remainder being
subscribed by the people of the
province. The first part of the
descent from the long tunnel
is steeper than that on the
Fukushima side; but after pass-
ing Kariyasu, the fertile plain
is reached, and this portion
of the journey to Yonezawa
can be accomplished in 2^ hrs.
Yonezawa {Inns, Akane-ya,
Takahashi; foreign restt.,Kato),
formerly the castle-town of the
great Uesugi family, is situated
near the S.E. extremity of a
rich and fertile plain, sur-
rounded by lofty mountains
and watered by the Matsukawa
and several tributary streams
that form the upper waters of
the Mogami-gawa. The town
itself, though large, has not
;a striking appearance. The
houses are thatched, and the
streets mostly narrow, rongli^
and neglected.
Unlike their brethren in other
parts of Japan, the old mmnrai aie
here the .wealthiest portion of the
' population, retaining in their hands
the bulk of the silk produced in the
neighbourhood. This state of affairs
is said to arise from the fact that
when Uesugi was deprived, as »
punishment, of a large part of his
fief by the government of the day, his
retainers had to eke out their liveli-
hood by their own industry, and the
habits thus inculcated stood them
in good stead when the revolution of
1 8€W swept over the land, and deprived
them of their class privileges.
The castle has been razed to
the ground; but the temple
dedicated to Uesugi Kenshin,
an ancestor of the family and
a mighty warrior of the 16th
century, still remains, and an
anniial festival is held there
on the 13th of the 3rd month,
old calendar. Close by are
situated the imposing-looking
local government of&ces.
Bandm-san may be reached
in 1 day from Yonezawa viit
Hibara, at the head of the lake
formed after the last eruption
of that volcano. Boats are
available across the lake to
the foot of the mountain,
whence the traveller may walk
over the scene of the eruption,
and down to Tonokuchi on the
shores of Lake Inawashiro on
the evening of the second day.
Thence by steamer to the
hamlet of Yamagata on the
lake, by road to Motomiya, and
by rail to Toky5 on the third
day, making a most interesting
excursion.]
From Knori {Inn, Nishi-ya), the^
silver mines at Handa may be
reached in 1 hr. The hot-springs
of lixdka are also best reached from
this station. The railway now
traverses the most picturesque
portion of the route, and passing
by the important town of
Shiraisni (Inn by Akajima),
Sendau
195
affords a constant change of moun-
tain scenery until
Iwannma is reached, whence it
proceeds to Sendai through level
country.
Sendai {Inns, Harikyu, Shimoda,
Kikuchi; also the clubs Yushu-kwan
and Mutsu-kwan, the latter near the
railway station, attached to both of
which are public restaurants where
European food can be obtained),
capitel of the province of Eikuzen
and of the prefecture of Miyagi, is
situated on the 1. bank of the Hiro-
se-gawa, and was formerly the
castle-town of Date Mutsu-no-Kami,
the greatest of the northern Dai-
myos. The castle, a fine natural
stronghold lying on the r. bank of
the river, was partially destroyed
during the civil war of 1868. It
is now used as barracks for the
garrison. The town is noted for
its manufacture of ornamental ar-
ticles, such as trays, etc., made
of fossil-wood (jindai-sugi) found
in a hill near the town ; also for a
kind of cloth called shifu ori, made
of silk and paper and suitable for
summer use. Foreign buildings
are tolerably numerous, amongst
the principal being the Grovern-
ment schools which stand on a
large open space to the E. of the
town, and the Post and Telegraph
Office in the main street. The
small Public Garden commands a
good view toward the castle and
the mountain-ranges beyond. For-
merly a number of valuable old
lacquer and other relics belonging
to the ex-Prince of Sendai, as well
as the presents given by the Pope
to the mission headed by Hashi-
kura Rokuemon, who was sent to
Borne in 1615 by Date Masamune,
were preserved in the town ; but
they have lately been dispersed to
various parts of the Empire. Some
of these interesting relics are to
be seen in the Miiseum at Ueno in
Tdky6 (p. 82). The convict-prison
of Sendai is one of the largest in
Japan. Outside Sendai, at Aramaki
on the N., are a number of potteries
where coarse pans and jars are
made.
Though ordinarily treated as a
mere place of rest by the traveller
en route to Matsushima and the
North, a few hours may profitably
be spent at Sendai in visiting
the temple of Zuihdden, where
lie the ashes of Date Masamune,
and afterwards proceeding to
Atago-san, from which a lovely
view of the surrounding coun-
try is obtained. The temple
stands on Zuiho-san, a part of
the old castle grounds, and is
approached by an avenue of lofty
cedars. Just beyond the first torii
is a fine large stone tablet, erected
to the memory of 142 Sendai men
who fell in the Satsuma Rebellion.
The temple is then reached by a
flight of steps. The sixteen-petalled
chrysanthemum (a crest on the
outer gate retained by special per-
mission of the Mikado), and the
fine bronze cistern close by, are
worth inspection. The haiden is
of black lacquer with coloured
cornices. The kara-nion gate has
some good carvings of tigers and
dragons ; but they are inferior to
those on the Okvrno-in, or inner
temple, where ,the i^rojecting
rafters take the shape of carvings
of mythological monsters. Within.
is the tomb, having upon it a
seated statue of Date Masamune.
On each side of the Okvr-no-in stand
stone monuments to the memory
of twenty faithful retainers who,
when their lord died, sacrificed
their own lives in order to foUow
him to the land of shades. The
pla<5e is surrounded by lofty crypto*
merias, and resembles, but on a
much less magnificent scale, the
site of leyasu's tomb at Nikko.
The monument close by, erected
by Date Masamoto, records the loss
of a thousand men of Sendai in
the war of the Eestoration.
A path leads down 1. through,
the valley, and then up to the
196
Boute 24. — Nortliem Bailwmj S Oshit Kaido,
ridge called Atago-san, facing the
town. The view from the tea-
sheds on the top is exceptionally
beautiful. The river winds round
the foot of the hill, the town
spreads out in front embedded in a
mass of foliage, the mountains lie
behind, while to the r. is a broken
country consisting of uplands
dotted with clumps of trees, and an
open plain beyond extending to the
sea. The summit of the sacred
isle of Kinkwa-zan is also occasion-
ally visible. Th»- path descends to
the river, which is crossed on a long
bridge of planks. There are various
other minor places of interest in
Sendai and its immediate vicinity.
Diverging considerably to the E.,
the railway route passes through
a fertile stretch of country, with
little to arrest the traveller's at-
tention.
Matsnshima takes its name from
the well-known vill. on the shores
of the Bay of Sendai, 1 ri distant.
For a description of the beauties of
this celebrated spot, see Boute 30.
From Kogota, carriages run to
WaJcuya, 1^ ri, and to Furukawa on
the Oshu Kaido, 2 ri.
[Waknya is of some historical intereRt,
as having been in the possession of
Date Aki, who lost his life in the
cause of Tsunamuue, third Prince of
Sendai under the Tokugawa Sho-
g^ns, and whose story forms the
subject of the popular drama entitled
Sendai Hagi. Tadamnne, the second
Prince, hail an illegitimate son.known
as Hyobu Shoytl, who, discontented
with his lot and envious of the great
Sendai estates falling to another,
secured the aid of Harada Kai, chief
controller of the Prince of Sendai* s
afiFairs in Yedo, in a plot to ruin
Tsunamune. The young prince was
then living in Yedo, and Hyobu's
object was to leeul him into such a
career of dissipation as would end in
his fall. In this the plotters partially
succeeded. Tsunamune retiqmedto
Sendai from the capital, taking the
fomous courtesan Takao with him as
his mistress, an act in itself , if known
to the Shogun, sufficient to cause
bis effacement from the roll of Dai-
myos. At this stage his faithful
adherent Date Aki and others inter-
posea, and on the plea of illnesa
got the Sh9gun to consent to their
lord's retirement and to the appoint*
ment of his son Kamechiyo, a child
but seven years old. Through the in-
fluence, however, of Sakai TJta-no-
Kami, prime minister of the Shogun,
whose daughter had married Hyobu's-
son, Hyobu himself was appointed
guardian of Kamechiyo. Several
attempts were made by both Hyobu
and Harada to get rid of the young^
prince by poison, all of which failed
through the devotion ofi Aki's-
daughter, whom he had left as gov-
erness for the boy. Eventually,
armed with ample proof against
the conspiititorB, Aki laid the case
before the ShSgun at Yedo. Uta-no-
Kami undertook to defend his son-
in-law, while Itakura, another noted
minister, espoused Aki's cause, and
after a lengthy trial Hyobu and
Harada were found guilty. But a
petition for a new trial was granted,
and it was in the course of this trial
at the prime minister's residence,
that Harada stole upon Aki and
slew him on the spot. Prevented iu
a further attempt to murder Itakunv
also, he killed himself. This occurred
in 1671.]
Ichinoseki, also called fwai
(Inris, Kumagaya Seibei, Tama*
moto-ya), a town consisting chiefly
of one long street lying in a fin©
valley on the banks of the Iwai-
gawa, was formerly the seat of a
Daimyo named Tamura. At Ichino-
seki the railway strikes the valley
of the Kitakami-gawa, which it
follows up past Morioka.
This important river rises at the vill.
of MidO on the northern frontier of the
province, and has a course of about 175
m. dlie S. to Kofunakoshi, where it
divides into two branches, one flowing 8.
into the Bay of Sendai at Ishinomaki, the
other into the Pacific Ocean. It has
numerous affluents, and affords ready
means of transport for the produce of
the largo extent of country drained by
it. Rice, wheat, beans, and hemp are
generally cultivated in the district.
Trout are plentiful in the rivers of this
part of Japan.
[From the port of Eozenji (no
inns), about 2^ m. from Ichino-
seki by a good jinrikisha road,
there is a line of river steamers
running daily to Ishinomaki
and Shiogama. The steamer
starts at daylight, reaching
Ishinomaki about noon. After
a short stoppage^ it aacenda
The Kitahami-gaiva. Chusmiji.
197
tlie river again to enter the
Nobiru canal, and then pass-
ing through the Matsushima
archipelago; reaches Shiogama
about 4 P.M. Delays, however,
are frequent, owing to the
numerous stoppages made en
route to take in carsjo. The
nver scenery is very pretty in
places, but the steamers are
small and uncomfortable. Sta-
tions from which large square
nets are dropped into the river
by levers, are seen on the per-
pendicular bluffs. The slate-
quarries for which Ishinomaki
is noted, are passed on the
1. before reaching the town.]
At a distance of 2.^ ri from Ichi-
noseki is situated the far-famed
monastery of Chusonjiy in which
many interesting relics of Yoshi-
tsune and Benkei are preserved.
Jinrikishas may be taken to the
tea-house at the foot of the hill on
which the temples stand. The road
from Ichinoseki follows an excel-
lent portion of the old highway ;
and shortly after the railway line
has been crossed, the approach to
Chtisonji — a lengthy avenue of
grand cryptomerias — is reached.
No attempt should be made to go
further except on foot; it was
incumbent in old days on the
Mikado's envoy himself to alight
here, even if he were merely
passing by the sacred hill. Per-
mission can readily be obtained
to inspect the treasures, on applica-
tion at the Local Government
(Mice {Gun Yakusho) in Ichinoseki.
The buildings are closed as places
of worship, being now simply re-
tained as store-rooms for the
temple treasures ; but they are still
in the care of the Buddhist priests,
who will conduct visitors around. A
fee should be offered to onfe of the
priests on leaving, ostensibly for
the maintenance of the buildings,
which indeed sadly need repair.
The monastery was foanded by Jikaka
Baishi in the 9th centuiy, and attained
its greatest prosperity under the patron-
age of Fujiwara Kiyohira. The buildings
once numbered forty in all, with residences
for 300 priests.
A short distance up the avenue,
a fine and extensive view of the
valley of the Kitakami-gawa is
obtained. The principal buildings
shown are the Jizo-do, Konjiki-do,
Issaikyo-do, and Benzaiten-do. All
are plain wooden structures, de-
void of colour or ornament except
some carvings and flower-paintings
on the Jiz6-d6. This is the first
building met with on tUe 1. of the
avenue. It contains figures of
Yoshitsune and Benkei, said to be
their own handiwork. In the
Issaikyo-do are three fine sets
of the Buddhist scriptures. But
the most interesting building is
the Konjiki-do, once covered with
a coating of gold that gave it tjie
name of Hikaru-do, or Glittering
Hall, by which it is most commonly
known ; but only faint traces of
the gold are now discernible. The
main pillars are lacquered, and
inlaid with shells broiight from
Rome by the mission sent there in
1615 by Date Masamime. Here
as elsewhere, however, time and
neglect have left their mark.
Among the treasures carefully pre-
served, are two paintings of Chii-
sonji by Kanaoka (A.D. 859-876),
the first great Japanese painter ;
also paintings of Yoshitsune and
Benkei said to be by themselves ; —
good, bold pieces of colouring. The
relics here include some fine images
of the chief deities worshipped by
the Tendai sect. Benkei's sword and
other possessions may be seen in
the Benzaiten-do. Altogether, the
collection of objects of both artistic
and historic interest is rich and
varied, and well merits inspection.
Instead of returning to Ichino-
seki, the traveller may resume his
journey northwards by train at
Mneznirn (Inn, Sato-ya), 1 ri 24
eho beyond Chusonji. Just before
reaching this station, the Ko-
198
Boiite 24, — Northern Railway & Oshu Kaido,
romogawa is crossed, a river cele-
brated as the scene of the battle
that ended Yoshitsune's career.
Near
Miziisawa is the site of the
ancient fortress (Chinjufu) of the
Governors-Greneral of Oshu, a name
which in early times included all
N.E. Japan.
KiirosaiW2ijiri (Inn by Nomura
Nisuke). Small steamers some-
times ascend the Kitakami-gawa as
far as this place. Here, too, the
most picturesque road to Akita
diverges 1. over the mountains (see
p. 203).
' Haiiamaki (Inn by Takase Toku-
taro). The railway station is about
1 m. from the town. For the
road from this place to Kamaishi
on the E. coast, see p. 215.
About 9 m. from Hanamaki up the ^
valley of the^^Toyosawa, lie the hot-
springs of Osawa, where the ac-
commodation is better than at any
of the other springs in the pre-
fecture. The water is strongly
impregnated with alum. Jinriki-
shas are available all the way.
The most prominent mountains
seen on the E. are Rokka-uchi-
yama and Sochiho-san, locally
known as Hayachine-yama ; on the
W., Nansho-zan and Ganju-san,
also called Iwate-yama.
lliziime (Inn by Uchikawa).
The railway keeps on the r.
bank of the Kitakami-gawa, and
crosses the river Shizuku-ishi at
its junction with the Kitakami
before entering
Morioka (Inns, * Mutsu-kwan,
European food; Seifii-kwan, at the
station; *Murata-ya, Naruse), the
capital of the prefecture of Iwate,
and formerly the castle-town of the
Daimyo of Nambu. The town is
celebrated for its kettles, spun-silk
goods, fruit, and vegetables. _ The
kettles differ from those of Osaka
and Kyoto in being a rusty red
colour, and in the annealing to
which they are subjected. The ore
from which they are made comes
from near the E. coast, and has &
high reputation. American apples
are now extensively grown ; also
quinces, cabbages, and turnips.
Game is abundant in winter.
Among the other productions of
Morioka, are a confection made of
the root of the dog-tooth violet
(Erythronium) called kataJcuri, and
syda-no-yuki (contracted from.
Sumida-no-yuki), somewhat resem-
bling Iceland moss paste.
About 1 H from the town, a grove of
cryptomerias is seen on a bluff overhang-
inir the river. Here it was that the rebel
Alje-no-Sadatd had his castle, which, after
a stubborn resistance, was overthrown
by Minamoto Yoshiie, the doughty war-
rior also known to fame as Hachiman
Taro, that is, the flrst-bom of the
God of War. Long afterwards — so the
story goes— when Nambu wished to
l)uild his castle on the same spot, the
Shosrun's Government, remembering the
difficulty formerly experienced in over-
coming the rebel Abe, refused to grant
permission, so that the fortress was erected
on the hill which ^ftei'ward3 became the
centre of Morioka.
Under the hiUs to the E. of the
town stand a number of temples.
In the garden of one of these, called
Ryukokuji, is seen a peculiar rush
called the kataha no yoshi, the
leaves of which grow on only one
side of the stem. Tradition avers
that this is owing to Toshitsune
having stripped off half the leaves
with a stroke of his sword.
[Ganju-san, also called Iwate-san
(6,800 ft.), can be ascended
from Morioka by starting early
in a jinrikisha with two men,
and going to DaishaJcu, a
hamlet on the lower slopes of
the mountain, where are good
sulphur baths, the water for
which is brought down in
pipes from Amihari, higher up
the valley. The jinrikisha
should be left at the hamlet
for the return joiumey. Dai-
shaku, which is about 7 ri from
Morioka, can be reached in
time for lunch, and the after-
noon pleasantly employed in a
dimb to the source of the
Ascent of Ganjxt-san,
199
hot-springs at Amihari, up a
^ood path of less than 2 m.
The baths ai*e mere open
tanks, though there are huts
where some of the country
people put up when they come
for the cure. From here a
short but steep climb takes
one to the dividing ridge be-
tween the i)refectures of Iwate
and Akita, whence a good
view may be obtained of the
mountains towards Akita.
It is a hard day's climb from
Daishaku to the top and back,
but the traveller has two
nights'rest, and the hot sulphur
baths to refresh his weary limbs.
The ascent of the mountain
is easy for the first few miles
•over the lower part ; but grad-
ually it begins to zigzag up
through and over the roots of
trees. Sometimes it follows the
ridge of a spur, and then de-
scends to cross a valley, in one
place coming out on a solfatara,
where the hot water boils up
and mingles with a cold stream
running down from the moun-
tain. The structure of the
mountain may be compared to
three joints of a telescope,
there being a lower thick cone,
then a rim or crater, then a
«econ4 cone followed by a
second rim OV crater, and
finally a third cone. On ren<ih-
ing the outside of the first
•crater, a slight detour brings
one to a ridge separating two
httle lakes which can be seen
from the top. From this spot
there is another steep climb to
the rim of the second crater,
on the floor of which stands
a hut intended to ticcommo-
<late pilgrims. The last part
of the ascent from here is up a
slope of fine lapilli, inclined
at an angle of 27°. The top
«of the mountain is really the
knife-like edge of another
•crater, half a mile in diame-
ter, in whose centre rises a
small cone which is breached on
its S.E. side. Strewn along the
edge, lie numerous offerings to
the mountain god, which have
been brought up by pilgrims —
principally pieces of sheet-iron,
shaped like spear-heads, vary-
ing in length from 2 or 3 in.
to 2 or 3 ft. The interior of
the cone may be entered by
climbing over the breach.
Ganju-san, from its regular
logarithmic curves, is a beauti-
ful object to all those travel-
ling up or down the valley of
the Kitakami-gawa.
On returning, it is better
to take the direct road towards
the vill. of Shizuku-ishi, cross-
ing the ridge of the outside
crater just behind the pilgrims*
hut, and descending a long^
rocky spur. This is an easier
way, as there is no under-
growth to force one's way
through ; but on reaching the
foot of the mountain, it is a
long trudge across the grassy
l)lain before one begins to as-
cend the zigzag path to the
inn at Daishaku.
The return from Daishaku
can be varied by crossings
the Shizuku-ishi river at the
ferry, and going to the hot-
springs of Tsunagi, where
the baths are pleasant though
of no particular medicinal
value. By following a short
way further up the valley,
the baths of Oshuku (Uguisu-
no-yado) are reached. From
here the road to Morioka, 13
m., is along the r. bank of the
Shizuku-ishi river, and enters
the city by the Meiji-bashi.
Those pressed for time can
make the ascent most quickly
from Yanagizawa-mura about
4 ri from Morioka, starting on
horses in the afternoon. The
accommodation at the little
inn is miserable ; but by enga-
200
Boute 24, — Northern ruiilivay cd Oshii Kaiild.
ging guides and using torches,
the ascent can be begun about
midnight and the top reached
at daylight, distance only 2 ri
23 cho. To make up for the
comparative shortness of the
distance, the climb is so steep
in some places that chains are
fastened in the rocks to help
the pilgrims.]
The Northern Eailway is about
to be completed to Aomori. At
present, from Morioka onwards,
travellers jnust follow the old high
TOtid the Oshu Kaido, which partly
adjoins the railway track, and is
practicable for jinrikishas. Omni-
buses also ply over a portion of
it, — on wheels during the summer,
and on runners during the long
season of snow. They ply regularly
between Morioka and Numakanai,
irregularly between Niimakunai
and San-no-he, fairly regularly be-
tween San-no-he and Noheji, and
regularly from the latter place to
Aomori. Each cho in the distances
along the road in the prefectures
of Iwate and Miyagi is regularly
marked, — a great convenience to
those acquainted with the Japanese
numerals. The following is the
Itinerai'y,
MOEIOKA to :— Bi. Cho. M,
Shibutami 4 27 111
Numakunai 3 32 9^
Kotsunagi 4 34 12
Ichi-no-he 3 4 7-1
Pukuoka 1 31 4^
Kindaichi 13 2^
San-no-he 3 — 7i
Asamizu 3 18 8a
Oo-no-he 1 20 3|
Dempoji 1 28 U
Pujishima.'. 33 2^
Sambongi 17 3
Shichi-no-he 2 28 6|
Noheji 5 8 12|
Kominato 4 9 IO2
Nonai 4 20 Hi
AOMOEI 2 3 5
Total 50 17 1231^
Leaving the suburbs of Morioka^
the road crosses the Kitakami-gawa
and follows up the r. bank of the
river. About 1 m. out of the town,,
it enters a grove which extends
for over 2 m. In the autumn^
the Morioka people picnic here, to-
gather a delicious species of mush-
room called hatsu-take.
After passing the junction of tlie^
road to Hirosaki at a distance of 3
ri 6 cho from Morioka, the main
road to Aomori turns to the r.,
still ascending, but within a mil©
crosses the crest and gradually
descends towards Shibutami, con-
tinuing around the base of Ganju-
san. The best view of the mount-ain
is obtained from near_
Shibutami ( Inn, Omura-ya ),
where the shape appears perfectly
symmetrical. The picturesque cone
of Hiine-ga-take at the end of the
range of hills enclosing Morioka-
on the r., which has been con-
spicuous for so many miles, rise&
from behind Shibutami. The val-
ley of the Kitakami-gawa becomes
more confined; and the stream,
which up to Morioka was navigable-
for boats of 50 kuJcu burthen, is
now obstructed by rocks and.
boulders. Its principal soiu'ce is
crossed just before reaching
Niimnkiiiini (Inn by Kojima To-
mi). This is the last viU. in tlie
valley. The terraces marking the
ancient position of the river-bed
deserve notice. After passing the
turning on the r. which leads
to Hachi-no-he, the road lies be-
tween wooded hills, and beyond th&
temple of Kwannon ascends the
water-shed, about 2,000 ft. above
the sea. At the foot of a large
cryptomeria near this temple, is a
clear crystal spring which is ac-
cepted as the source of the iTita-
kami-gawa. At the top is the
boundary between the provinces of
Eikuchii and Bikuoku. The road
now lies over a grassy tract, and
soon after passing the hamlet of
Nakayama, strikes the head of
North Section of the Oshu Kaido.
201
a deep valley and descends to
Ketsunagi (Inn by Sakuyama).
Throuf^h this valley flows the
Itfabechi-gawa, which after a course
of tes m. discharges itself into the
sea at Hachi-no-he. This river will
be crossed twelve times by the
railway on its way to Hachi-no-he.
Lacquer-trees line the roadside,
and everywhere dot the fields.
I<*lli-no-lie (Inn by Nishimura)
lie* between steep woodedhills. The
road now crosses to the r. bank of
the river, and rises to a consider-
able height to avoid a bend in the
valley. The scenery all the way
to Kindaichi is very picturesque.
At Fuhuoka (Inn by Murai), the
valley widens out. The road partly
follows it, but in two places ascends
the mountains on the 1. bank to a
<ionsiderable elevation, descending
at the back of
San-llO-lie (Juris by Tago, Asai)
to a tributary stream flowing down
■a long valley from the W. A high
hill covered with cryptomerias
lies between this and the main
river. On the r. bank of the latter
rises the peak of Nakui-dake, visi-
ble from a long distance N. The
•ascent of this conspicuous hill is
recommended. It can be very
easily climbed, and it offers a
remarkable view of the sui'round-
ing country and of the main chain,
with Herai-dake, Akakura, etc.
Shortly after leaving San-no-he, the
road to Hachi-no-he branches off to
the r., and the main road, ascend-
ing the mountains by a steep
Jicchvity, runs along an elevated
wooded ridge. This commands
«n extensive view, embracing the
mountains near Aomori, the whole
E. pai-t of Aomori Bay, Osore-zan
on its N. side, and the narrow
isthmus between the Bay and the
Pacific Ocean. Asamizu (Inn by
Tanaka) lies in a deep valley. More
ridges are crossed before reaching
Uo-iio-he (Inns by Xamioka,
Yuwatari), a considerable place for
this part of the country. From
Fujishima, a gradjially rising plain
extends to
S«aiiiborigi {Inns by Yasuno, Wa-
jima), and between the latter place
and Noheji on Aomori Bay the
road traverses large stretches of
moorland and open rolling country,
extending to the 1. for 6 or 7 miles,
and on the r. as far as the eye can.
reach. In bad weather the track
is deep in mire, the soil consisting"
of black mould, under which are
hiyers of clay and volcanic pumice,
which in some places come to the
surface. At
Shichi-no-he (Lms, Minatobe,
Urushi-do), on a stream of the
same name, the plain is again
reached, and after 3 m. the road
crosses the Nakagawa and the
Tsubo-kawa.
Nolioji, often written Nobeehi
(Inns, lida-ya, Yasuda), is a port
conveniently situated at the S.E.
corner of Aomori Bay.
[A coast road runs due N. from
Noheji to the hatchet-shaped
peninsula of Yakeyama, where
the summit of Eamafuse-zan
affords a delightful view, and
the solfatara at the little lake
on Osore-zan offers much in-
terest. The accommodation is
everywhere poor, except at
Kawa-uchi, Sai, and Obeta.]
Tliough the distance from Noheji
to Aomori is but 15 m. as the
crow flies, the road is forced by a
mass of mountains to make a con-
siderable detour, which increases
the distance to 11 ri, or nearly 27
miles. Leaving Noheji, it foMows
the coast through insignificant
fishing villages for a few miles to a
cove called Shiranai, then strikes
inland through Koniinato (Inn by
Terajima), crosses over to the
shore of Aomori Bay proper, and
continuing past the hot springs of
Asamv^hi (Inn by Sugawawa), and
along the rocky and picturesque
coast to Nonai, enters the plain in
which lies Aomori.
202
Iloiite 25, — Sendai to Yamayata d' Yonezaiia,
Aomori {Inns by *Nakajima
Masakichi, Wajima Heizo), capital
-of the prefecture of the same name,
is situated at the head of Aomori
Bay and at the mouth of the small
river Arakawa, which drains an
extensive plain shut in by high
liills. Its straight, wide streets
give it an aspect unusual in Japan,
and the shops are large and well-
supplied. Quantities of salmon are
caught in the bay ; and besides
dried salmon and sharks' fins, furs
from Yezo and lacquer are seen in
abundance in the shops. The lac-
quer is of a peculiar variegated kind,
called Kavd-nuri, Tsugai'u nuri, or
Baka-nuH. A considerable trade
passes through Aomori, as it is the
link connecting Hakodate with
the province of Mutsu and the
district of Nambu in Eikuchu. It
is also the chief outlet of the large
migration of country people who
annually cross over to Yezo in the
spring for the fisheries on the
coast of that island, returning in
the autumn to their homes on the
mainland.
There is constant steam com-
munication between Aomori and
Hakodate, 70 m. distant, the
stealhers always sailing at night.
KOUTE 25.
From Sendai to Yamagata and
yonezawa.
Itineranj.
SEIJDAI to ;— Ri. Cho. M.
Ayako 3 — 7i
Sakunami 4 — 9f
Sekiyama 5 34 14^
Tendo 3 26 9
YAMAGATA 3 8 7 J
Kaminoyama 3 JL8 Sh
Nakayama 1 33 4f
Akayu 2 24 6^
YONEZAWA 4 4 10
Total 32 3~7Hi
This route is two easy days"
journey by jinrikisha, staying the
first night at Yamagata. Sendai
and Yamagata are also connected
by a more direct but rougher road
over the Futakuchi-toge.
Saknnaiui {Inn by Iwamatsu)^
situated in a deep valley with pre-
cipitous sides, is noted for its hot-
springs. The main road from Akita^
to Yamagata is joined at the town of
Tendd,* where it emerges on to a
plain which narrows towards Yama-
gata. The views hereabouts are very
pleasing. The most striking ob-
ject in the landscape is the summit
of Gwassan, which rises behind
picturesque lesser ranges, and
whose slopes continue, even during
the hottest part of the year, to be=
covered witli large patches of
snow.
Yainagata {Inn, Goto; foreign
restt.] Shizan-ro), capital of the pre-
fecture of the same name, and
foiTuerly the castle-town of Mi-
zuno Iziuni-no-Kami, is well-situ-
ated on a slight eminence, and
possesses broad and clean streets
with good shops. Leaving the
highly cultivated plain of Yama-
gata, we enter some low hills, on
the slope of one of which stands
Kaiiiinoyniiia {Inn, Kame-ya).
This town contains several good
inns, many of which are built high
up the slope of the hill. It alsa
possesses hot mineral baths, which,,
on account of their efficacy in rliou^
matism, attract visitors from con-
siderable distances. Kaminoyama
is noted as being one of the driest
places in Japan, and may be re-
conunended as a health resorts
There are plenty of walks in the-
neighbourhood, and picturesque ex-
cursions can be made in many
directions.
Akayu (I>i7i by Ishioka Yozo) is
another place noted for its hot sul-
phur springs ; but the inns are apt
to be filled with patients, and to be
too noisj* for the taste of foreign
Boute 26. — From Tokyo to Akita.
203
travellers. After crossing the
Matsukawa, and passing the vill.
of Nukanome, we reach
Yonezawa (see p. 194).
ROUTE 26.
Ebom Tokyo to Akita on the
Nobth-West Coast.
The traveller bound for Akita
has a choice between several routes,
viz.
1. By the regular tri- weekly
steamers of the Nippon Yuseu
Ewaisha from Yokohama to Hako-
date, in 2^ days, and thence to
Tsuchizaki, the port of Akita, by
smaller steamers, which run at
intervals of from 4 to 10 days, and
occupy 18 hrs. in making the pass-
age. The distance from Tsuchi-
KsJd to Akita is 1^ ri.
2. Kailway from Tokyo (Ueno)
to Kurosawa jiri on the Northern
hne in 17 hrs.; thence by the
following itinerary, which is the
most picturesque land route.
Itinerary.
KUROSAWAJIEI to :—
Bi, ChO. M.
Shitamura 3 18 8.i
Snginahata 8 31 9^
Kawajiri 2 10 51
Nonojuku 1 30 4^
Yokote 5 30 14^
AKITA (by itine-
rary given in No.
3 in next column) 18 34 46^
Total 36 9 88^
For Kurosawajiri see p. 198.
The first part of the journey as
far as Nonojuku is rough and
mountainous.
3. Railway from Tokyo (Ueno)
to Sendai, in 12 hrs. Thence
by road, the following being the
Itineii'ary.
SENDAI to — Ri. Chd M. '
Ayako 3 — 7i
Sakunami 4 — 9|
Sekiyama 5 34 14a
Tateoka 3 18 8^
Obanazawa 3 20 8$
Funagata 3 19 Si
Shinjo 2 12 5:^
Kanayama 3 32 9i
Nozoki 4 11 lOA
Innai 3 — 71
Yuzawa 4 9 10^
Yokote 4 30 llf
Kakumagawa ... 3 18 84
Omagari 1 25 4^
Hanatate 22 l<i
Jinguji 1 '2 2a
Kita Maruoka . . . 27 If
Kariwano 1 25 4}
Yodogawa 2 11 5|
Wada 3 12 Sk
AKITA 4 — 9t
Total 65 3 158^
The road is practicable for jin-
rikishas throughout. As far as
Sekiyama, this route coincides with
the first part of Route 25.
At Tatookn (Inn, Ise-ya), the
main road from Yamagata to Akita
is joined. Not far fl*om Tateoka is
Yamadera, with its old temples and
fine landscapes.
Shiujo (Inn by Ito Yunosuke), a
quiet place, has a large trade in
rice, silk, and hemp, but shows
little outward evidence of prospe-
rity. The style of buildings in this
district and in those further N.
differs entirely from that met with
in central and southern Japan.
204
Route 27 » — Sendai to Tstim-ga-oha d Aldta,
Nearly all the houses are great
oblong barns turned end- wise to
the- road, and are built with heavy
beams and walls of lath and
brown mud mixed with chopped
straw. Rain-doors {ania-do), with
a few paper windows at the top,
replace the ordinary sliding
screens ; and as there are no ceil-
ings to the rooms, the interior pre-
sents a very uninviting appearance.
Beyond Shinjo the road crosses
a steap ridge into a singular basin,
partly surrounded loy thickly
wooded pyramidal hills, at* the foot
of which lies the vill. of Kaiia-
yania. The next stage of the
journey is through wild and pic-
turesque scenery. Leaving the
hamlet of Nozok<, the road descends
along the head- waters of the Omo-
no-gawa. The approach to
Iiinai, as well as the road on to
Tuzawa, is* through an avenue of
cryptonlerias. The silver mines
at Innai were once the most pro-
ductive in Japan.
Yokote (Inn, Kosaka), is a dirty
town with a large trade in cottons.
Oinagr>iri> (Inn, Takenouchi). At
Jinguji (Inn, Hoso-ya), boats
may be taken down the Omono-
gawa to Akita. The current is
swift, though there are no rapids ;
and the journey of 42 m. may be
comfortably accomplished in 9 hrs.
Akita (Inn, Kobayashi) is the
capital of the prefecture of the
same name. This town, also called
Kubota., was formerly the seat ot a
Daimyo named Satake. A con-
siderable commerce is carried on
here^ and rice is exported in large
quantities to the northern parts of
the Main Island and to Hakodate.
The manufactures are striped
tsumugi, or spun-silk cloth, and
white chijimi.
4. A road from Morioka (19 hrs.
by rail from Tokyo) to Akita, joins
that given in No. 3 near Omagari.
The whole distance from Morioka
to Akita is 35 ri 8 cho, the itinerary
as far as Omagari being as fol-
lows :—
MORIOKA to :— Ri. Cho. M.
Shizuku-ishi 4 10 lOi
Hashiba 2 21 6^
To the border of
the Prefecture... 2 12 5|
Obonai 2 23 6^
Kakunotate... 5 11 13
OMAGARI ......... 4 35 12i
Total 22 4 54
EOUTE 27.
From Sendai to Tsubu-ga-otca,
Sakata, Hon jo, and Akita.
Ascent op Hagubo-ban, Gtvas-
8AN, AND ChOKAI-ZAN.
Itinerary.
SENDAI to:— Ri, Cho. M.
Shinjo 25 31 63
Moto-Aikai 2 10 6l
Furukuchi 2 8 6i
Kiyokawa .-... 3 12 S^
Karigawa 1 12 3^
Fujishima 1 34 4f
TSURU-GA-OKA 2 8 6i
Back to Fujishima 2 8 5^^
Niibori 2 26 6f
SAKATA 1 33 4^
Fukura 5 6 12^
Shiokoshi 5 14 13^
Hirazawa 2 33 7
HONJO 3 7 7f
Nakamura 6 — 14j
Araya 4 25 Hi
AKITA 1 10 3
Total 74 25 180|^
This route has been compiled for
those travellers whose chief object
is mountain climbing, and who,
after completing their tour, will be
able to take steamer for Hakodate
either at Sakata or at Akita.
The road is the same as Section
3 of Route 26 as far as Shinjo, where
Ascent of Haguro^ Gucassan d Chokai—zan,
205
it diverges to the 1. to reach
Moto-Aikai. Soon after passing .
this vill., it arrives at a ferry
over the Mogami-gawa, one of the
most important rivers of N. Japan,
and the scenery becomes highly
picturesque. The river, tliough"
flowing between high hills, covered
partly with grass, partly with
splendid yews and cryptomerias, is
•quite placid, and- is studded with
primitive boats having brown mats
for sails. Descending the pleasant-
ly cultivated valley, we rea<;h KaH-
gawa, where the main road to
Sakata joins in to the r.
Tsiirii-gii-okai or Shonai (Inn by
Tabayashi Gorobei) was formerly
the castle-town of a Daimyo called
Sakai Saemon-no-jo. The retainers
of this personage are remembered
for the sturdy resistance which
they offered in 1868 to the Mikado's
troops, and for their rough, un-
eultivated manners. There are
several remarkable waterfalls in
the neighbourhood of Tsuru-ga-oka,
viz. Shiraiio no taki near Kiyokawa,
whose height is estimated by the
Japanese at 74 ft. and its breadth
at 24 ft.; "No-no-tahiy near the foot
of Maya-san, about 100 ft. high ;
and Hitoguhuri in the same vicinity.
These last two waterfalls, tumbling
over different sides of the lame
steep ridge, are visible at the same
time, and with some smaller falls
about 20 ft. in height, make a
charming picture.
[Hagnro-san and Gwassan may
be conveniently vibited from
Tsuru-ga-oka.' Gwassan, the
higher of the two, is only 6,200
ft. above the level of the sea ;
and it is therefore not so mueh
on account of their height
as of their reputation for
sanctity, that they are known
throughout the length and
breadth of the land, and yearly
attract crowds of pilgi'ims.
One of the most curious ihin^
connected with these mountains is
the mythical existence of a third,
called Ttufotio-tan, the three together
being collectively known as San^
art/ «, that is, 'the three mountains.*
Yudono-san is marked on almost all
Japanese maps, posts point the way
to it, pious ])ilgrims plan the ascent
of it, mention of it Las even crept in
to some of the European guide-books
to Japan, and, — Mrs. Harris-like, no
ttuck inot<ufuiu exitit! This, on the
authority of Dr. K. Naumann, long
attached to the Imperial Japanese
Survey Department, and probably
Ijetter acquainted with the byways
of Japan than any other man living.
It is necessary, in order to
avoid the discomfort of spend-
ing two nights on the moun-
tains, to start at a very early-
hour. Haguro-san is visited
first, 4 ri. 'I'hence to the sum-
mit of Gwassan is 9 ri ; but ac-
commodation for the night can
be obtained at any of the three
hamlets situated on its slope.
The traveller is advised to
choose the highest of the three,
and next day, to return to
Tsuru-ga-oka via Tamugi and
Oami, in the neighbourhood of
which latter vilL may be seen
the primitive method of cross-
ing an otherwise impassable ra-
vine by Kago-watashi, that is, a
basket slung to ropes. Instead
of returning to Tsuru-ga-oka,
it is also possible to reach Yama-
gata by descending from the
top of Gwassan to the hamlet
of Iwanezawa, a walk of 6 rt,
where, at a distance of li ri,
the road from Tsuru-ga-oka to
Yamagata viA the Roku-ju-ri-
goe is met.]
Leaving Tsuru-ga-oka, the road
crosses the Mogami-gawa close to
its mouth before reaching
Siikata {Inn, Miura-ya), a port
of call for steamers. The principal
street presents a peculiar appear-
ance, with its houses standing in
separate enclosures.
[From Fukura (fair accommo-
dation), the ascent of Chokai-
zan, sometimes also called
Tori-no-umi-yama, may best be
ao6
Emite 27. — Sendai to Tmni-ga-oJca d' Akita.
made. A trip to this magni-
ficent mountain is strongly
recommended. Scarcely any
other peak in Japan, Yari-ga-
take perhaps excepted, affords
80 extensive a view. Sunrise
la the best time for the view,
for which reason the traveller
should arrange so as to spend
the night on the top. It is,
however, possible to make the
ascent and to descend again to
Fukura in one long day. The
distance to the summit, which
is considered to be 9 W, is
divided into three equal stages,
of which the first 3 ri may be
performed on horseback. The
second takes one to the shed
at Kawara-ishi, 4,800 ft. above
the sea, where water and poor
native food can be obtained,
and where even in summer
patches of snow may be seen.
The third stage leads past the
rim of an old crater, and over
snow and volcanic scroriae to
the present peak. Near the
top are some sheds for pilgrims,
and a small temple little
better than a hut. ITie actual
summit is 800 ft. above this
point, and is reached by
clambering over a wilderness
of broken rocks and stones,
the result of some ancient
eruption.
The first recorded eniption took
place in A.D. 801, and the last about
30 years apro. Traces of its action
may still l)c seen in the solfatara on
the W. side of the mountain, but the
upheaval was an insi^iificant one,
and the volcanic force of Chokai-zan
is evidently becoming extinct.
From the summit the eye
wanders over the entire range
of mountains dividing Ugo
from Rikuchu, and over those
of Nambu beyond. Looking
•W. is the sea, with to the
r. the long headland of Oji-
ka. Opposite lies Hishima,
and to the 1. Awajima and
Sado. To the S. is the plain
of the lower Mogami-gawa,
bounded by the mountains of
Uzen and Echigo, with the
long slope of Gwassan in the
centre. Most curious of all,
as the first rays of light break
through the darkness, is the
conical shadow of Ohokai-zan
itself, projected on to the sea,
and rapidly diminishing in
size as the sun ascends.] '
The road now lies along the
coast at the foot of Chokai-zan and
Inamura-dake, as far as Shiohoshi,
on the top of high cliffs over-
hanging the sea. The view of Cho-
kai-zan varies constantly. From
Shiokoshi to Hirazawa the coast is
much broken up by small bays,
whose entrances are guarded by
rocky cliffs, and where small fishingr-
villages line the shore.
Honjo {Inn^ Komatsu-ya), for-
merly the residence of a DaimyG
named Eokugo, stands on the banks
of the Koyoshi-gawa, at whose
mouth is the small port of Furu-
yuki. From this point onwards,
as far as Akita, the coast extends
in one long unbroken dreary line
of sandy shore. The manufacture
of salt from sea- water by a rough
method is carried on here to a con-
siderable extent, and in the month
of May large quantities of hata-
hata, a fish resembling the sardine,
are caught with the seine. An
inferior kind of lamp-oil is extracted
from these fish, and the refuse
is used as manure. At
A rayn , the Omono-gawa is crossed
to the prefectural town of
Akitai (see p. 204).
Eoute 28. — From yiujaUi to Tsuni-r/a-Qha.
207
EOUTE 28.
TPvxyH. NlIGATA TO TSUBTJ-QA-OKA.
[Valley of the Miomote-gawa.J
Itinerarij.
in:iGATA to :— Bi. Cho. M.
Nuttari 26 If
UchiShimami.... 3 21 8|
SHIBATA 3 8 7|
Mikkaichi 1 6 2|
Ifakajo 3 6 7$
Kurokawa 1 4 2if
Hirabayashi 2 15 6
MURAKAMI 2 34 7i
8arusawa 2 13 6|
Shionomachi 1 20 31
Budo 1 32 4k
Nakamura 2 12 5$
Arakawa 18 1^
Ogiini 4 22 lU
Tagawa-yu 5 30 14|
TSJRU-GA-OKA 1 18 3|
Total 38 33 95
This route is mostly impracti-
c».ble for jinrikishas. The road is
doll as far as Kurokawa, where
the scenery becomes more interest-
ing, and a good view of the moan-
tain ranges ahead begins to dis-
close itself. The most conspicuous
emmnits are : in front, Budo-yama,
so called from the wild grapes to be
found growing on its sides ; and to
the r. in the distance, the highest
of the three peaks of Washi-ga su,
or the 'Eagle's Eyrie.' The road
enters the lower hills on nearing
the former castle-town of
* Marakdinl (fair accommodation),
a clean and good-sized place. After
crossing the Miomote-gawa, the
most delightful scenery on this
route is reached. Two new sum-
mits to the r., — Eboshi-yama and
the Echigo Fuji, a double-crested
mountain one of whose peaks as-
sumes in miniature the exact form
of its great namesake, and others
most various in size and contour,
come in sight. Clusters of pines
and cryptomerias, and the never-
ending green of a rich cidtivation
along the lower level, an(J of the
grassy and leafy heights, contri-
bute to the charm of the landscape.
[Dr. Navunann highly recom-
mends the picturesque upper
course of the Mi(yinote-gaiva,
especially the gorge between
the villages of Miomote and
Iwakuzure, Miomote itself
lying at the foot of the moun-
tains like a little paradise. He
includes in his praise the
whole of the wild district
extending northward to the
Mogami-gawa, and recom-
mends the following tour to
mountaineers : — From Sendai
to Ito-ga-take, Gwassan, Cho-
kai-zan, Tazawa, Odori, Mio-
mote, Iwakuziu'e, Washi-ga-su
(4,140 ft.), Arasawa, Gomizawa,
Asahi-dake (6,530 ft.), Oguni,
Tamagawa, lide-san (7,130 ft.),
Ichinoto, Niigata. Portions of
this tour are described in
Eoute 27.]
From Nakaiiiiirn, it is a per-
petual succession of steep ascents.
The i^rincipal sight on the way is
Urushi-yania no Iwaya, a striking
mass ot grey rock, which towers
romantically above a purling brook
from amidst a glade of giant cryp-
tomerias, and is half-shrouded in
live oaks and creepers that take
root in almost inaccessible nooks
and crannies.
The tradition is that Yoshiie, commonly
known as Hachiman Taro, or the ' tirst-
boni of the God of War,' built him in this
spot a r(X)f of arrows as a shelter from the
weather, when he had defeated his foes in
this mountain fastness. Hence the name
(or nither perhaps the name may have
g^iven rise to the story) of Yabuki Dai-
myojin, lit. the ' God of the Arrow-i-oofinjf,'
under which this wan*ior is worshii)ped
as the local JShinto deity.
Tiigawa-yn, a village so called
I from its hot-sj^rings, is situated at
the base of the Dainichi-toge. It
contains several good tea-houses
witli pleasant bathing accommoda-
tion. Jinrikishas can be taken
from this place across the plain to
Tsiirii-ga-oka (see p. 205).
208
llotite 29* — From Akita to Aomon,
EOUTE 29.
From Akita to Aomori.
funakawa. ascent of iwaki-san.
Itinerary,
AKITA to:— Ri. Cho. M.
Tsuchizaki 1 18 3|
Okubo 3 30 H
Hitoichi 2 18 6
Kado 3 — 7i
Movioka 1 IS 3f
Noshiro 4 3 10
Tsurugata 3 — 7i:
Niageba 3 29 9^-
Kotsunagi ...» 21 1^
Tfiiizureko 3 6 7|
ODATE 4 21 Hi
Shirazawa 2 21 6i
Ikari-ga-seki 4 28 llf
Ishikawa 3 19 s]
HIROSAKI 2 14 5f
Namioka 4 26 Hi
Shinjo 4 14 10|
AOMORI 1 25 4i
Total 55 23 135f
Descending the r. bank of the
river to Minato, the road follows
the coast, and at Okubo crosses to
the shore of a large lagoon, called
Hachird-gata, whose greatest length
from N. to S. is 17 ni., its breadth
being about 7i ni. The entrance
on the S.W., by which it communi-
cates with the sea, is only about
150 yds. wide.
[On the W. of the bay formed by
the headland on tjie opposite
side of the lagoon, lies the port
of Funakawa (Inn by Moroi),
near which are some remark-
able rocks rising to 60 ft. in
height. In one place they form
a natural bridge in the sea.
Funakawa is 10 ri 28 chb distant
by road from Akita, passing
through Futiakoshif at the
mouth of the lagoon, 6 ri 21
cho from Akita. Jinrikish'as
are available.]
After iQavipg the lagoon ofc
Kado, the road strikes across a
rich plain extending from the
mountains to the sea-shore on the
1. and northwards to
Noshiro {Inn by Kanazawa Kai-
mon); thence "to Tsurugata on the
Nqshiro-gawa. From Tsurugata. to
0<lat<', the road ascends the val-
ley of the Noahiro-gawa, keeping
always on the r. bank. At Odate
quantities of coarse lacquered ware
are manufactured. Travellers com-
ing from the opposite direction can.
descend by boat from Odate to
Tsurugata. From Odate the road.
turns again to the N., and crosses
a range of hills. The slopes on the
r. are grassy and bare of trees,
while those to the 1. are covered
with a dense forest. Numbers of
horses are bred in this neighbour-
hood.
Hirosaki (Inns by Ishiba, Nagai)
was formerly the castle-town of a
Daimyo surnamed Tsugaru, after
the district which formed his ter-
ritory. The castle was destroyed
some years ago, and its site is now
occupied by bai'racks.
[On the W. of the town rises
l^akl-san, or the Tsugaru Fuji^
so called on account of its simi-
larity in form to the famous
mountain of that name. One
of the best views of this peak
is enjoyed by the traveller as
he approaches Hirosaki from
the S., when the mountain
makes its appearance in a
N.W. direction. Its solitary
grandeur equals, if it does not
surpass, that of the loftier
cone after which it is named.
The ascent is made from
Hyaku-sawa, about 3 ri from
Hirosaki, at the S. foot of
the mountain, where there is a
temple, whose incumbent will
furnish guides for the ascent.
The season at which pilgrims
make the ascent is strictly Umit-
td i but travellers will find no
Eoute 30, — Matsmlilma and Kinhim-zan,
20^
difficolty in obtaining the ne-
cessary permission at any time,
by malang a small present of
money. At a height of 4, 1 00
ft. lies an oval crater, about
100 yds. wide, at the bottom
of which is a small pond.
To reach the highest peak
of all, about 4,650 ft. high,
two steep ascents have to be
made over boulders and loose
gravel. Scattered over the
summit lie numerous huge
andesite boulders. The top
is extremely steep, a fact ap-
parently due in large measure
to the washing away of ejecta-
menta, leaving only the solid
rock. Notwithstanding the
great amount of degradation
that has taken place upon the
upper part of this mountain,
its general form and the exis-
tence of beds of pumice indicate
that it has been in a state of
eruption during periods which,
from a geological point of view,
are quite recent.
The ascent and descent can
be easily accomplished in 5 a
hours.]
From Hirosaki the road lies
across a plain cultivated with rice,
beyond which it ascends the range
of hills known as Tsugaru-zAkci. The
top of this range commands a mag-
nificent view of the surrounding
country. To the N. and N.E. lies
the bay of Aomori looking like a
a huge lake ; on the E. rise the
mountains of the central chain that
forms tha backbone of the Main
Island ; to the N. W. are the penin-
sula of Mimmaya and the valley of
the Iwaki-gawa; on the S.W., Iwa-
ki-san and the town of Hirosaki ;
and on the S., the mountains that
divide Tsugaru from Akita. De-
scending a narrow valley, the road
shortly issues on to the coast, and
reaches
Aomori (see p. 202).
Shiogama
coast
KOUTE 80.
Matsushima and Kinkwa-zan.
the matsushima . archipelago,
nobiru. i8hin0maki.
By train from Sendai on the^
Northern Eailway to Shiogama
in i hr.
The archipelago of pine-clad
islets collectively bearing the name
of Matsushima, has been famed for
its beauty ever since northern
Japan was conquered from the
Aino aborigines in the 8th cen-
tury, and is one of the San-kei,
or * Three Most Beautiful Scenes'
of Japan, the other two being
Miyajima and Ama-no-hashidate.
A lengthened form of the name,.
Shiogama-no-Matsushima, i.e. * The
Pine Islands of Shiogama,' is
often made use of
being the town on the
where the curious landscape be-
gins. The favourite way of viewing-
the scene is to row or sail across
to the hamlet which has borrowed
the name of Matsushima, un-
less it be desired also to visit
Ishinomaki and Kinkwa-zan, in
which case a very good view is-
afforded from the steamer's deck.
These steamers ply daily between
Shiogama and Ishinomaki, starting-
after the arrival of the first train
from Sendai. The passage to Ishino-
maki occupies about 3 hrs., or not so-
long when weather permits of the
small river steamers going outside-
the4:)ar at Nobiru, instead of taking
the lengthier canal route. The
larger boats which connect withthe-
Nippon Yusen Kwaisha's steamers
set Oginohama on their voyages to
and from Yokohama and Hakodate,,
also pass through the little archipe-
lago, and take but 2 hrs. to cover
the distance between Shiogama and
Oginohama.
ShiogJima (Inns, Asano-ya, Saito^
Ebi-ya, all near the railway station
I and the pier J the old and noted inn
-210
lioute 30» — Matsiishijna and Kinhm-zan,
•on the liill called Shogaro, a for-
mer pleasure-house of the Prince of
Sendai, is still in existence, but
being now-a-days inconveniently
situated for train and steamer, is
little patronised by travellers).
The Temple, which once belonged
to the Shingon sect of Buddhists
And was known under the name of
Hbrenji, should be visited. It has
been transferred to the worship of
the Shinto god Shiogama Dainiyo-
jin, a son of the creator Izanagi,
and the reputed discoverer of the
way to obtain salt by evaporating
sea- water. The word ahio-gania
means Salt-Boiler. In the temple
court will be noticed a sundial in-
scribed with Roman figures. It bears
date 1783, and was presented by
Rin Shihei, a writer noted for his
zealous advocacy of the defence
of the country against foreign
inroads which he prophetically
foresaw. There is like\yise a hand-
some though weather-beaten iron
lantern, presented by thQ warrior
Izumi Saburo Tadahira in A.D.
1 1 87. But in the temple's present
state, the magnificent cryptomerias
and other trees, in the midst of
whose deep shade it stands, are un-
doubtedly the greatest attraction
-of the place. Shiogama is noted
for its ink-stones. From Shiogama
to the hamlet of
Matsiishiina (Inn, Kwangetsu-
ro) is a deliji^htful sail amidst the
promontories, bays, and ' islets,
which stretch along the coast for 18
ri as far as Kinkwa-zan, the most
celebrated of the group. There are
said to be 88 islands between Shio-
gama and Matsushima, and 808 in
rail between Shiogama and Kinkwa-
«an, of which but very few are
inhabited. But 8 and its com-
pounds are favourite round numbers
with the Japanese, and moreover
the smallest rocks are included in
the enumeration. Each of them,
down to the least, has received a
separate name, many of them fan-
tastic, as * Buddha's Entry into
Nirvana,' 'Question and Answer
Island,' *the Twelve Imperial Con-
sorts,' and so on. All the islands are
formed of volcanic tuff, into whicli
the sea makes rapid inroads.- Doubt-
less many of the smaller isles dis-
appear in this manner, while their
number is maintained by th©
gradual breaking up of penin-
sulas. In almost every available
nook stands one of those thousan<l
pine-trees, that have given name
and fame to the locality. At the
hamlet of Matsushima, the temple
of Zuganji, in which are the ances-
tral tablets of the Date family, will
repay a visit, though its exterior is
not promising. In the outer court,
in front of a small cave called the
Hoshin ga Iwaya, are two large
figures of Kwannon cut in slate*
stone. There is also a well-carved
wooden figure of Date Masamune
in a shrine behind the chief altar.
The various apartments of the tem-
ple are handsomely decorated;
and when the gold fpil which is
lavishly strewn about was fresh,
the effect must have been very fine.
Specimens of non-hoUow bamboo
are brought for sale at the viU. of
Matsushima, but being rare, ar^
somewhat expensive. Two ri dis-
tant is
To mi jam a, a hill from which
by far the best general view
of the archipelago is obtained,
and where any traveller who,
during the boat journey from
Shiogama, may have been disap-
pointed with his trip, will allow
that the locality possesses great
beauty, even should he think that
this has been somewhat exaggerateci
by Japanese popular report. The
whole distance may be accom-
plished in jinrikishas, excepting
the last 3 chd leading np
to the temple of Taikdji, which
stands near the top of the ascent.
This temple is said to have been.
founded by Tamura Maro, a cele-
brated general, who was sent
against the Ainos during the reign
Xobiru. IshmomakL Kinkwa-zan,
211
of the Emperor Kwammu (circa
A.D. 800). From this spot the
«ye wanders oV^er 'a maze of
islets and promontories, land and
sea being mixed in inextricable but
lovely confusion. In the direc-
tion of Shiogama, the double peak
of Shiraishi-no-take may be de-
scried in the blue distance, while
to the r. rises the range dividing
the province of Kikuzen from those
of Uzen and Ugo. The highest hill
to the 1. is on the island of Funairi-
shima, above the port of Ishi-
bama, a place of call for merchant
steamers. Tomiyama is but a
short distance off the main-road to
Ishinomaki, and may be taken on
the way there either by jinrikisha
or carriage, — altogether about 9 ri
from Matsushima.
In going by steamer from Shio-
gama, • the islets ai'e left behind
after an hour's sail, and the canal
which connects the shallow waters
of the bay with Nobiru is entered.
Nobirii (poor accommodation).
The port of this place is little
more than a creek with 5 or 6 ft.
draught of water, and has a bar
across its mouth. Some time ago,
the course of the river was altered
by making a cutting to a point
about 2 m. inland, where there is a
wide bend. It was expected that
the flow of the river in its new bed
would suffice to keep the channel
clear, that the old bed of the
Naruse-gawa would be available to
take off any superfluous amount of
water in times of flood, and that
the bar at the mouth could be kept
down by dredging. But all at-
tempts to effect this have been
unsuccessful, and the failure has
put a stop to various other schemes
which had the attention of the Go-
vernment for increasing the facili-
ties of trade in this region. The
canal, 10 m. in length, con-
necting Nobiru with the Kitakami-
gawa 2 m. above Ishinomaki, is
part of the original scheme for
making Nobiru the chief port in
the Bay of Sendai, the mouth of
the Kitakami-gawa being also ex-
posed to the full sweep of the
Pacific Ocean and to the violent
S.W. gales that drive through
the Matsusbima group. A con-
sequence of this is that the bar at
the mouth of ttie river has like-
wise defied all efforts at removal.
The eanal is 100 ft. wide, and just
deep enough to admit of large
cargo boats being towed through.
The level is maintained by means
of a lock at the river end. The
river steamers make use of thia
canal, except when the sea is very
smooth outside.
Ishiiioiiniki (Inns,* Asano-ya,Ho-
shi-ya), noted for its slate-quarries
and salmon fisheries, stands at the
mouth of tlie river Eitakami, the
natural outlet for the . trade of
the Nambu district and the N. It
is a bustling little sea-port, pos-
sessing two banks and a bazaar.
A fair amount of ship-building
in European style is carried on.
Hyorlyama, a hill at the en-
trance of the harbour, commands
an extensive sea view, including
the Matsushima archipelago, the
windings of the river, a range of
high mountains inland, and a
bird's-eye view of the town.
Steamers ascend the river daily
to Kozevji^ which is about 2^ m.
from Ichinoseki, a station on the
Northern Railway. The journey
dovm the river is recommended in-
stead, as the boats run through to
Shiogama in one day, generally in.
from 9 to 10 hrs., but frequently
taking much longer, owing to
stoppages on the way for cargo
(see p. 196).
2. — Kink WA- zan.
The most direct means of reach-
ing this noted island is by one of
the Nippon Yiisen Kwaisha's tri-
weekly steamers to Oginohama (Inns,
Kagi-ya,OmoriJ, in the Bay of Sen.-
dai, whence small sailing boats can
be obtained for Kinkwa^zan, a dis-
212
Eoute 30. — Matsushima and Kinkwa-zan.
tance of nbout 10 ri. But it is more
generally approached from the port
of Ishinomaki, where boats are
also procurable ; or if it is desired
to shorten the sea passage, jin-
rikishas may taken from Ishi-
nomalii to the vill. of Wada-no-
ha (Inn by Ishikawa Jubei), which
lies 1^ ri further along the coast
between Ishinomaki and Ogino-
hama. The cost of boats irom
Wada-no-ha to Kinkwa-zan was
^1.43 per boatman in 1890. The
distance by water is estimated at
1 1 ri, from which again 2 ri may be
saved by landing at the hamlet
of Aikawa-hama (Inn, Izumi-ya),
situated in a small bay to the
"W. of the channel separating
Kinkwa-zan from the mainland.
The latter plan is recommended.
There is a road from Wada-
no-ha to Oginohama, 4 3 ri; but it
is not practicable for jinrikishas,
neither is the hilly path of 4 ri
more which leads directly to the
ferry at Kinkwa-zan. Nothing is
gained by starting from Ogino-
hama, owing to its situation at the
liead of a deeply indented bay, unless
the traveller has come by steamer
from Yokohama, in which case
there is no alternative. The time
taken from Wada-no-ha depends
upon the state of the wind. An
unfavourable wind affords an ad-
ditional reason for landing at Ai-
kawa-hama. From this hamlet to
the ferry called Yamadori, is a walk
of a little more than 1 m. over a
low pass, the top of which affords an
entrancing view of Kinkwa-zan and
the entire Matsushima archipelago.
A short descent then leads to the
ferry-house, where the sonorous
notes of a fine bronze bell announce
to the boatmen on the sacred
island that passengers are waiting
to be conveyed across. Boats can-
not be kept on this pai*t of the
mainland, owing to its exposure to
the great seas which roll in from
the Pacific, whilst the W. side
of Kinkwa-zan opposite to it is
comparatively sheltered. Spacious
boats well-manned soon perform
the 2 m. passage, and land the
visitor at a small breakwater on
Kiiikwai-znii, a short distance
below the temples. The tame deer
with which the island abounds form
pictui*esque objects as they stand on
projecting ledges of rock, or graze-
quietly by the side of the road that
leads up through a wood composed
of pine, beech, and chestnut trees.
The only buildings on the island
are those attached to the temples
at which every one*must stay ; but
there is ample accommodation for
all under the massive roof of the
main edifice. Passports should be
shown by the foreign visitor to
the priests. A liberal contribution,,
if he desires to stay overnight, will
generally ensure the use of the jo-
dan, two large handsome rooms. If
it is intended to return the same
day a lesser offering will suffice. No-
other payments are necessary. Ex-
cellent vegetarian food is provided,,
and served up by the acolytes.
Guides are also furnished to con-
duct the visitor around the island^
if a request to that effect is made.
Kinkwa-zan is one of tlie most renowned
spots in the north, and has l»een, in spite of
its inaccessiljility, the resort of pril^ims-
from all parts of .lapan for centuries past.
Such was its sanctity in old daj's, and
such the inferior position assijijiied tc>
woman, that they were not permitted .to
^aze on the island, much less put their feet
iipon it. It need scarcely )>o said that
tho.se days are past; but some of the old
cnstoms connected with the place still
linjrer around it. For instance, every pil-
gi-iin is conveyed grafh to and from the
island, and receives food and shelter from
tlie priests until his devotions are over.
What contribution he may chotjse to niake^
rests entirely with himself.
The oriffin of the name Kinkita-zaw
('golden-flower mountain') is obscure.
Tradition asserts that j?old was found oit
the island then known as Michinoku-yama;
and the following lines in the MaujfOtthu,
an anthologj^ of the Hth centur5', are 8Ui>~
l)o&ed to refer to the discovery :
Sumerogi no
Mi yo mkaeu to
Aziona nam
Michinokn-yamo ni
Koga ne hana taku
Kviikwa-zan,
218
which means, " To add lustre to the sov-
ereign's augusli reign, golden flowers
t>looin in tlie mountains of Michinoku in
tbo East." It is more probable, however,
tbat it derived its name from the glitter
of the quantity of mica found in the soil.
Almost everything required by
the temple inmates is raised on the
Bpot. Their sake, of which 130 koJcvb
WLre produced yearly, is specially
noted for the soothing peculiarity
that no headache follows even un-
limited libations. Every pilgrim
is therefore allowed to drink to his
heart's content. The chief festi-
vals take place in February, March,
August, and September. Regard-
ing the history of the temples very
little can be learnt, all the records
and relics connected with them
having been lost by fire. Before
the transfer of the buildings to the
Shinto cult, they were attached
to the Shingon sect of Bud-
dhists, and dedicated to the service
of the goddess Benten. Some of the
original smaJler shrines are- still
standing; but the Ge-Honzo, or chief
temple, was built only some ten years
ago, and is dedicated to the god and
goddess Elanayama-Hiko-no-Mikoto
and Kanayama-Hime-no-Mikoto.
Though it otherwise exhibits pure
Shinto style, the eaves are adorned
with fine carvings. The contribu-
tion box in front, made of a block
of slate-stone and measuring 9
ft. in length and 3 ft. in breadth,
with carvings of deer in relief, as
well as the gaku in the oratory, a
splendid piece of carving in keyaki
wood, which took three years to
finish^ are well- worth inspection.
The walk to the summit of Kin-
kwan-zan takes about i hr. from
the temple, being but some 16 cho.
The path leads behind the main
buildings, mostly through broken
houlders and over the interlaced
roots of beech-trees. The objects
pointed out on the way are de-
tached pieces of rock with fanciful
designations. Only one of these
reeks to judge from the immense
cairn rais^ upon it, seems to have
attracted the attention of pilgrims ;
and this is where Kobo Daishi is
said to have sat in meditation
when he visited the island. . The
glorious view from the summit
repays the traveller for any diffi-
culty he may have had in reaching
Kinkwa-zan. Nothing obstructs
the vista of the broad and blue Paci-
fic ; for the mountain, although
densely wooded on all sides, slopes
gradually down to the sea. On
the W. side, the whole Matsu-
shima archipelago is embraced, —
even the outermost isles to the
N., fringed with a thousand pines
and encii'cled by white breakers.
Takahashi-yama, a higher peak to
the N. W. on the mainland, shuts
out the prospect in that direction
only.
The small shrine on the top of
Kinkwa-zan is dedicated to Wata-
zumi-no-Mikoto, the Shinto God of
the Sea. Close by it is the site of the
lighthouse which stood there until
the erection of the present fine
granite structure on the E. side of
the island. A path from the Sum-
mit descends to the lighthouse, and
joins what is called the Pilgrim's
Circuit, a road round the island
which no visitor should fail to
follow, as it affords glimpses of
wild coast scenery unsurpassed on
the N.E. coast, noted though this l)e
for its picturesque beauty. The
circuit of the island by road is
estimated at from 5 to 6 ri, and
takes about the same number of
hours to accomplish.
The return from Kinkwa-zan is
usually made direct by water to
Oginohama, Ishinomaki, or — should
the wind be favourable — ^to Sliio-
gama.
214
Route 31. — Tlie North-East Coast.
ROUTE 31.
The Nobth-East Coast.
from mobioka on the nobthebn
bailwat to mitako. down the
coast fbom mitako thbough
yamada, ozuchi, and kamaishi
to mobioka ob hanamaki on
THE NOBTHEBN BAILWAT. FBOM
KAMAISHI TO KESEN-NUMA AND
ICHINOSEKI.
The North -East Coast, hitherto
comparatively inaccessible, can now
be approached from several points
on the Northern line of Railway.
Small steamers also ply at irregn-
lar intervals along the coast, which
deserves to be better known. Spe-
cially to be recommended is the
portion embracing the sea-board of
the provinces of Eikuchu and Riku-
zen, extending southwards from
Miyako to Kesen-numa. The road
leads over the necks of hilly penin-
snlas, disclosing marvellous views
of the fiord-like coast and of the
mountain ridges that extend
down to it. The harbours are the
finest in Japan, though unfortunate-
ly but little use can be made of
them, as a mountain-range shuts
out the fertile valley of the Eitaka-
mi-gawa which attracts to itself aU
the produce of the surrounding
c mntry, the scanty coast jpopula-
tlon having to subsist on fishing
and on the cultivation of small
isolated patches of land around the
bays. The nature of the country
sufficiently indicates the rough-
ness of the roads and of the ac-
commodation to be expected. North
of Miyako^ the mountains recede
from the sea and the landscape
becomes monotonous.
From Morioka, a road practicable
for jinrikishas leads to Miyako on
the E. coast. The trip takes 2
days' hard travelling, the only
available resting-place being Kavoa-
wihi, almost exactly half-way.
Itinerary,
MORIOKA to :— Ri. Chb. M.
Yanagawa 6 10 13
Tashiro 2 14 6f
Kadoma 2 9 5i
Eawa-uchi 4 3 10
Kawai 4 7 lOJr
Haratai 3 6 7f
Hikime 2 26 6i
MIYAKO 3 6 7f
Total 27 8 66i
Soon after leaving Morioka, the
road begins a steady ascent for 7
ri, reaching the water-shed after a
senes of la-rge elbow-bends. The
summit (2,600 ft.) is called Kahuto-
kamUsan, since here it was that
the helmet of the rebel Sadato was
found after his defeat near Ichino-
seki by Hachiman Taroin A.D. 1100.
From this point down to the sea,
the road f oUows the course of the
Hegawa-kawa,the grandest scenery
coming some 3 ri below the pasa
on its E. side. Here for 2 ri the
road is cut out, half tunnel- wise,
high up along the face of the sheer
precipice, which looks down upon
the torrent tossing and foaming in
its rocky channeL To see this
to perfection, an early start from
Morioka is necessary. From Ka-
wa-uchi to Miyako is an endless
succession of picturesque land-
scapes, with granite boulders gilt-
tering in the broadening river as
it sweeps round jutting cliffs and
pillared blocks of: basalt. Near
Kadoma, a path branches off to the
S., leading up the valley of the
Oyama-gawa, whence the ascent of
Hayoushine^ama (6,660 ft.), the
highest mountain in the district
£. of the Eitakami-gawa, can be
made.
Miyako (Inn by Kikuchi Seibei)
has never fully recovered the
effects of a disastrous fire which
occurred some years ago.
MiyaJco to Kamaishi and Morioka,
215
Coast Koad to Kamaishi.
Itinerary.
MIYAKOto: Ri. did. M.
Yamada 6 — ]4f
Ozuchi 5 12 13
KAMAISHI 3 19 8^
Total 14 31 36i
Horses are procurable at any of
these places.
Yamada (Inn by Shirotsuchi
Sentaro). Two villages lie on the
shores of the magnificent bay that
forms the harbour of Yamada. It
is surrounded by mountains of
above 1,000 ft. in height.
Kamaishi (Inn by Niinunla) is
situated at the head of a rocky
inlet 2 m. deep. About 10 m.
inland is a district abounding in
iron ore of good quality, to work
which large sums of money were
spent by the Grovernment a few
years ag6, but with poor results.
The ascent of Goyo-san, 3,900 ft.
<sui easily be made from Kamaishi.
From Kamaishi, the traveller
may rejoin the Northern Railway
at Morioka by the Kamaishi Kaida,
of which the following is the
Itinerai'y.
KAMAISHI to :— RL Chd. M.
Koshi 4 31 llf
TONO 6 20 16
Shimo Miyamori ... 5 24 13f
Tassobe 1 19 3^
Ohasama 2 15 6
Otobe 4 33 12
MORIOKA 2 32 7
Total 28 30 70^^
A somewhat more direct road for
traveUers going southwards diver-
ges at the old castle-town of Tono
{Inn by Murakami), and joins the
railway at Hanamaki station, Ij-
hr. from Morioka.
The journey from Kamaishi to
Kesen-numa will occupy two days
on foot, with very poor accommoda^
tion at the wayside hamlets. Prom
Kesen-numa {Inn by Kumagae
Ichibei) a new road via Semmayn,
suitable for jinrikishas, is being
xjonstructed to Ichinoseki on the
Northern "Railway. The distance
is approximately 13 H,
\\
rr^
\
SECTION III.
CENTRAL JAPAN.
(kotites 32 — 3"].
Eaute 32, — Tlie Karuizatca-Naoetsii Railway,
219
ROUTE 82.
Thb Kabuizawa-Naoetsu Rail-
way AND NlIQATA.
17BI>A TO MATSUMOTO AND SHIMA-
SSIMA. TEMPLE OF ZENEOJI. EX-
CirBSIONS FROM NAGANO: BUEANDO
XAKUSHI, TOGAKUSHI-SAN AND
KBN-NO-MINE, IZUNA-SAN. LAKE
MTOJIBI AND ASCENT OF MYOKO-ZAN.
GOCHI. LAND AND SEA WAYS FBOM
KA0BT8U TO NIIQATA. THE ISLAND
OF 8ADO.
» i
III
Names
of
Stations.
Remarks.
8 m.
m
m
241
m
46
S2|
S7t
64
6»i
73|
8U
871
82
KARUIZAWA..
Miyoda.
Komoro.
Tanaka.
1JRT>A
( T6ky6 to Ka-
V ruizawa (see
( Route 13).
-Branch roads
to the Naka-
sendo and
to Matsu-
. moto.
/ Road to Knna-
X tsu over the
I Shibu-toge.
("Alight , for
(. Lake Nojiri.
1 Alight for as-
J cent of Myo-
( kd-zan.
Sakaki.
Yashiro.
Shinonoe.
NAQANO.
Toyono
Mure.
Kashiwubara
Tagachi
Sekiyama.
Arai.
TAKATA.
NAOETSU.
This line, starting from an eleva-
tion of 3,080 ft. at Karuizawa,
descends to the sea-coast at Nao-
etsa, and is on the whole the vioait
^ctnresque railway route in Japan.
The following description of the
line, as far as Nagano, is partly
abridged from an article in the
'Japan MaiL' The first five or six
miles are over a fairly level plain.
But the conditions are changed
when the southern slope of Asa-
ma-yama has to be rounded. Here
lies a water-shed whence flow large
rivers north and south, towards the
Sea of Japan and the Pacific re-
spectively. All the drainage of the
great mountain pours down through
deep gullies into the channel of
one or other of these rivers. The
soil, a loosely packed volcanic ash
and gravel of light colour, is easily
scooped away, and large chasms
are left whose sides the highway
descends and ascends in zigzags.
Throughout most of this section,
the traveller looks down from a
giddy height on rice-fields far be-
low. Prom the point near Oiwake,
where the Nakasendo is left be-
hind, to Komoro opportunities are
afforded of seeing to advantage the
Iwamurata plain backed by the
imposing range of Yatsu-ga-take.
Asama-yama has a less smiling
aspect on this side ; the fiat top of
the cone lengthens out, the pinky
brown colour of the sides assumes
a blackish hue, and chasms rough
with indurated lava break the
regularity of the slopes. Before
Komoro is reached, a long volcanic
ridge, dominating the valley of
the river Ghikuma as far as
Ueda, reveals the fact that Asama
is not an isolated cone, but the last
and highest of a range of moun-
tains. A former crater which has
discharged itself into this valley
and is now extinct, displays a row
o^ black jagged rocks in the hollow
between Asama and the next peak
of the range, a striking feature as
seen from Komoro.
Komoro (Inn, Tsuru-ya) is a
busy commercial centre. For-
merly the seat of a Daimyo, it has
turned its picturesque castle-
grounds overhanging the river,
into a public garden. Saddlery,
vehicles, and tools for the
surrounding district are manufac-
tured here. From Komoro to Ue-
220
EoiUe 32, — Tlie Kai^uizawa-Naoetsu Railway,
da, the railway runs down the
valley of the Chikuma-gawa, whose
S. bank is here formed by a series
of magnificent bluffs, in many places
descending sheer into the water.
A few miles above Ueda, the valley
opens out into a circular plain of
which that town is the centre.
Ueda (Inns, Kame-ya, Shishi-ya)
possesses few attractions. "White
and other silks of a dumble nature,
but wanting in gloss and finish, are
the principal products of the dis-
trict. It is specially noted for a
stout striped silk fabric called
Ueda-jima.
[The Ndkasendo may be joined at
Nagakubo by a jinrikisharoad
from Ueda, distance about 11^
ri,
A carriage road also turns
off about the middle of the
town by the Hofukuji-toge to
Matsumoto, whence a jinri-
kisha road leads to Shima-
shima at the foot of the Hida
range of mountains.
Itinerary.
Ueda to : Ri. Cho. M.
Matsumoto... 11 25 28i
Shimashima.. 5 — 12^
Total ... 16 25 40|
The average time taken by
carriage to Matsumoto is 6 hrs.
At the top of the hiU just
before descending into the
town, one of the finest moun-
tain views in Japan is obtained.
The- whole Hida range spreads
out before the spectator, . Yari-
ga-take being specially con-
spicuous. In the foreground
are well-wooded hills, and in
the distance the river winds
like a silver thread.
MatRnnioto (Inns *Shinano-
ya, Kome-ya) is one of the most
impoi*tant towns in Shinshu,
being the centre of commei'ce
between the S. part of this
province and the province of
Echigo. Some of the best Bilk:
in Japan is produced here. Its
other principal manufactures
are a kind of cotton cloth called
shibori, candied fruit, and
baskets and boxes of bamboo
work. Matsumoto became a,
castle-town early in the 16tli
century, and was the seat of &
a Daimyo called Matsudairsk
Tamba-no-Kami. The greatep
part of the castle is still pre-
served. It is only 5 min. from
the inns, and should be visited
if only for the view of the Hid&
range and the Matsumoto
plam which is obtaiued from
the top storey. The chief
sights of- Matsumoto are the
Shinto temple of Hdchiman and
the Buddhist temple of Shogyo-
ji. Thirty cho from Matsu-
moto, at the vill. of Asama, are
some hot-springs much re-
sorted to by the towns-folk.
Shimashima (Inn by Oku-
hara Jinzo). This is the best
place from which to ascend
Yari-ga-take (see Koute 34,
Section 8). Just across the
stream lies the village of
Hashiba, where there is a small
inn called Shimizu-ya perched
above the torrent.]
The old castle t)f Ueda, of which
one watch-tower still remains in-
t-act, stands on the river bank
beyond the town, and forms a
striking feature in the landscape
as the train leaves the station. The
exit from the amphitheatre of hills
enclosing Ueda is narrow and
hidden from view. Just before
the line turns into it, a curious
bluff with a cave in its face is
noticeable on the other side of the
river. At
Yashiro a road branches off to
the important town of Matsvuhiro
and down the r. bank of the Chiku-
ma-gawa to Niigata. Before reach-
ing Nagano, both the Chikuma-
gawa and the Saigawa are crossed.
Nagano, Temple of Zenkoji,
221
The head-waters of the latter are
near Lake Suwa. It flows past
Matsumoto, joining the Ghikuma-
^awa a short distance to the S.E. of
3^agano, and forming with this
larger stream the great Shinano-
^wa which enters the sea at Nii-
>^ata. One of the spans in the
Sai^wa viaduct is 200 ft. in length.
Nagano or Zenkoji (Inns, *Ogiya,
*Fuji-ya, with branches at the
station ; Puji-yahas rooms fitted up
in foreign style at its establishment
near the temples ; the Japanese
Club called Tosan-kvxin, which has a
room of 144 mats, commands a fine
view of the town and plain) is the
<3apital of the prefecture of Nagano,
"which comprises the whole pro-
vince of Shinshu. It is beautifully
situated at the foot of lofty moun-
tains, which form an imposing back-
ground and almost surround it. A
•considerable trade is done in woven
goods and agricultural implements.
Numerous fine buildings in
foreign style, and the crowds of
pilgrims thronging the streets,
give the town an air of exceptional
prosperity. The Buddhist temple
of Zenkoji is one of the most cele-
brated in Japan. It is dedicated
to Amida and his two followers,
Kwannon and Daiseishi (the latter
a, Bosatsu belonging to the retinue
of Amida), a group of whose images
is here enshrined.
This sacred group is said to have been
made by Shaka Muni himself out of gold
found on Mount Shumi, the centre of the
Universe. After various vicissitudes in
China and Korea, it was brought to Japan
in A.D. 552, as a present from the King of
Korea to the Mikado on the first introduc-
tion of Buddhism into Japan. All the
efforts of the Japanese enemies of Bud-
4lhisni to make away with the image were
in vain. Thrown into rivers, hacked at,
l)umt, it survived all and finally found a
resting-place at Zenkoji in A.D. 6U2.
The building 1. of the entrance
is the residence of an abbess of
high rank and a sisterhood of nuns.
Bows of shops for the sale of
rosaries and pictures of the triple
image line the court. Behind the
shops are the houses of the priests*
each in its own neatly arranged
garden. At' the end of this court
is the chief gateway, with images
of Monju and the Shi Tenno, which
are exhibited only on New Year's
day. The Main Temple, erected
in 1701, is a two-storied building^
198 ft. in depth by 10» ft. in
width, with a huge three-gabled
roof, so that the ridge is T-shaped.
This £oi*m is called shumoku^
zukuriy from its resemblance to the
shumokuy a wooden hammer with
which the Buddhists strike the
small bell used by them in
their religious services. The roof is
supported by 136 pillars, and there '
are said to be 69,384 rafters, the
same number as that of the written
characters contained in the Chinese
version of the Buddhist scriptures.
At the entrance two beautiful new
marble lamps, about 6 ft. in height*
deserve inspection. The sacred
golden group, standing in a chapel
on the W. side, is kept in a shrine
dating from A.D. 1369, shrouded by
a gorgeous brocade curtain. For
a small fee, the curtain is raised
so as to show the outermost of the
seven boxes in which the image is
enclosed. A space of 88 mats (about
1,600 sq. ft.) is set apart for
the worshippers. On the E. side
of the main hall is an entrance to
a dark gallery which runs round
below the floor of the chancel
(naijin), issuing again by the
same door. To complete this
circuit (kaidan-mawari) thrice is
considered highly meritorious.
More than 200 bronze and stone
lanterns crowd the space in froilt
of the main hall.
The principal festivals are the
Dai Nembvisuy or Great Invocation
of Buddha, held on the 31st July,
those held at the vernal and au-
tumnal equinoxes, and one on the
14th March, in commemoration of
the terrible earthquake of 1847.
This catastrophe occurred about 10
o'clock at night, and threw down moat of
Itoute 32, — The Kandzaiva-Naoetsu Bailicay.
tbe bouses in the town. Fires broke oat
simnltaueoaslj in many quarters, and in
the space of two da^^s bomt the whole
place to the ground, with the exception of
the main temple, the two-storied gatehouse,
library, and bell-tower. A more serious
calamity still followed shortly afterwards;
for the 8aigHwa, which had ))eeu blocked
near Shimmachi by the fall of a large
mass of earth from the hill-sides, burst
through the obstruction on the 27th, and
the pent-up waters spread like a deluge
over the level valley, overwhelming many
Tillages and drowning by thousands the
peasants who, regardless of warnings
from the authorities, had returned to
tiH the fields. A}x>ut 15,noo acres of
nce>fields and other arable laud were
flevastated by the flood, and the number
of those who perished on these two occa-
sions was estmiated at nearly 30,U00.
On the r. of the temple enclosure,
is the Public Oarden which com-
mands a good view of the vaUey.
EXCUBBIONS FROM NaGANO.
1. Bnrando Yaknshi, 1 ri N.E.
of the town, a shrine dedicated to
the Buddhist god of medecine, is
perched high above the path in a
large tree growing out of the rock.
Close by are some petroleum springs.
2. Togakiishi-san and Ken-no-
mine. Five ri from Zenkoji is the
temple of Togahishi-san, whither the
god Tajikara-o-no-Mikoto is said to
have hurled the rocky door of the
cavern in which the Sun-Goddess
had hidden herseK from her sub-
jects in heaven and earth. The
road, which is passable for jinriki-
shas drawn by two men, leaves the
town on the 1. side of the temple,
and ascends a narrow ravine to the
hamlet of Arayasu in about f hr.
Then winding over low hills and
ascending for f hr. more, it issues
on to a moor which encircles the
base of Izuna-san. In f hr. more,
a torii is reached at the highest
point of the moor. The path
then descends for over a mile to a
point where it divides, the r. branch
proceeding direct to the Chu-in,
the 1. reaching the Hoko-in after 12
cho more. The latter temple,
situated at the top of a long flight of
flteps lined with old cryptomerias^
is a large building decorated with
wood carvings of considerable merit.
From this point to the Chu-in is a
walk of 12 cho through the wood.
Those who intend to chmb JTen-no-
mi7^e, the highest point of the moun-
tain behind Togakushi, will do best
to pass the night here. The priest
will provide good accommodation.
The road to the Oku-no-in (dOchoi
is pretty level the whole way, ex-
cept during the last few hundred
yards. The priest's house com-
mands a fine view, including
the summits of Fuji and Asama.
Half-way between the bridge and
the red gateway on the road to the
Oku-no-in, a path branches off r.
under a wooden torii to Ken-no-
mine. A walk of about 3 ri leads
to the summit, below which is a
hut where pilgrims pass the night,
in order to rise early and witness
Himrise from the peak whence
Amida is supposed to be visible
riding on a cloud of many colours.
Snow lies on the mountain until
late in summer, and the ascent is
not usually attempted before the
beginning of July.
3. Izuna-san, or liznna-san, as
the name is also pronounced, may be
ascended either from Arayasu or
from the Chu-in ; but the latter is
preferable, as the climb from Ara-
yasu is steep. From the Chu-in,
the summit is easily gained in 1^
hr. by walking up a long spur.
The view is very extensive in every
direction. The traveller may re-
tiu*n either to Arayasu by descend-
ing the steep path on the opposite
side, easily pei-ceived from the
mountain top, or strike away to
the 1. by a_path leading across
the moor to Of urunia on the Hok-
koku Kaido, and close to Kashiwa-
bara station, — a 3 hrs. walk.
The railway from Nagano conti-
nues along the plain as far as
Toyono. Here it enters a narrow
valley, which it follows up until
Kashiwabara is reached at a height
Lake Nojm, AkaJciira,
22a
of 2,204 ft. At Toyono a road leads
over the Shibu-toge to Kusatsu
(see p. 149). A fine view is
obtained of Izuna on the 1. as
Kasliiwabara is approached. This
section of the line traverses a
le^on where the snow-fall is es-
pecially heavy, and where it occa-
sionally accumulates to a depth of
over 10 ft. In the winter of 1890-
91 the traffic was entirely stopped
daring several weeks.
[The traveller with time to spare
should alight here to visit the
beautiful little lake called
Niijiri-ko, 2i m. distant. As
the accommodation at the vill.
of Nojiri is very poor, it will
be well to arrange one's plans
so as to catch a train at Tagii-
chi, the next station, or to
proceed to the hamlet of Aha-
hura, situated on the side of
Myoko-zan and noted for its
hot-springs. Akakura is also
the point from which the asc^ent
of Myoko-zan is most easily
made. Kashiwabara station
lies some distance from the
miserable vill. of the same
name. The walk from the
latter is through a pleasant
oak wood, whence the road
descends slightly to
Nojiri {Inn, Katsura-ya),
pictiiesquely situated on the
shores of the lake which is
surrounded by low hills covered
with thickets." On a densely
wooded islet, approached by
a bridge about ^ m. in length,
is a temple called Uga-no-
Jinja. In front of the temple
stand two 'magnificent cedars,
one of which measures 27 ft.
in circumference. The view of
the giant masses of Izuna,
Kurohime, and Myoko-zan, as
seen from the island, is ex-
ceptionally fine. This romantic
little spot is only prevented
from becoming a favourite sum-
mer resort by its remote situa-
tion and the want of decent
inns. Good bathing may be
had in the lake, and the roads
in the neighbourhood are all
that one could desire. The
lake sometimes freezes at the
end of January, when the ice
becomes passable for men and
horses. Its waters find an
outlet into the Sekigawa,
which, flowing from sources on
Togakushi-san and Yakeyama,.
falls into the sea at Naoetsu in
Echigo.
From Nojiri to Akakura is a
walk of 2 hrs. But jinrikishas.
may be taken to the vill. of
TagiH on the main road,,
whence, turning sharp 1. over
the lower grassy slopes of
Myoko-zan, it is a distance of
23 cho to the baths. Leaving-
Nojiri, the road descends to the
small town of Sekigawa, named
after the river and situated
at the junction of two pictur-
esque wooded glens, where the
tori-ent rushes under the
branches of trees overhang-
ing it on either side. This river
— the Sekigawa — here forms
the boundary between the
provinces of Echigo and Shin-
shxL. A short distance beyond
the town of Sekigawa, a road
branches off r. to Tagiiclli
station, the nearest point on
the line of railway for Aka-
kura.
Akakura is a favourite re-
sort of the inhabitants of
Takata and other places on
the plain during a part of
August and September. It
possesses an excellent inn, the
Kogaku-ro, boasting a gigantic
bath, which is supplied with hot
water brought in pipes from
sources 2 n further up the
mountain. This inn is closed
during the winter months.
The other inns are of an in-
ferior description. From the
hamlet nothing obstructs the
•224
Eoiite 32. — The Karuizawa-Naoetsu Railway,
glorious prospect of the rich
plain extending down to
Naoetsu on the Sea of Japan,
and of the island of Sado on
the dim horizon. About 3 ri
off, between Kurohime ' and
Myoko-zan, is a large waterfall
called Nae iw taki. As ah*eady
indicated, Akakura is the most
convenient point from which
to make the ascent of
My oku-zaii (8,180 ft.). This
mountain is not free from snow
until July, but may be climbed
with safety in June by any
one properly equipped for as-
cending and descending the
enow-slopes. The necessary
appliances consist of a stout
alpenstock and hob-nailed
boats, or, instead of the latter,
waraji (straw-sandals), under
which must be fastened metal
points called kana-kanjiki. A
iruide should he engaged, and
instead of ascending by the
pilgrim's path, which is ex-
tremely steep and overgrown
with tall bamboo grass, the
path to the solfatara under
Akakura-yama should be taken.
This also lies through the same
sort of canebi*ake, but has the
advantage of rising very gently
and of being shorter than
the other. From the solfatara,
where two springs of very high
temperature gush forth, a steep
gully, filled in early June with
snow has to be ascended, and
the main path is entered at a
point where it is no longer
difficult or steep. One or two
snow-slopes are crossed, and a
rocky precipice scaled, to which
iron chains have been fixed in
order to enable the moun-
taineer to pass along the
narrow ledges — no more than
2 inches wide — which here
serve as a path. It is at
such places that the super-
iority of the waraji and kan-
jiki over nailed boots, which
afford no sure foothold on.
rocks, becomes evident. Above
the last snow-slope very little
remains to be done, and the
track which ascends the crum-
bling rock of the summit by
natural steps is perfectly safe,
though somewhat steep. Myo-
ko-zan is part of an extinct vol-
cano. The mountains im-
mediately surrounding it axe
the long semi-circular ridge
called Myoko-zan-no-Urayftma,
or the 'Hind-part of Myoko-zan/
on the S. E., and Kanna-yaiiia
on the N. Other solfataras,
besides that mentioned, are
found on the mountain. Hares,
which turn white during the
winter, abound ; bears and
sheep-faced antelope are also
occasionally caught. Water is
found at the very summit, on
which is a small wooden cha}>el
dedicated to Amida. The view-
to the S.E. includes Asama
and Fuji. Directly S. rises
Kurohime with its two peaks,
between which is seen the top
of Izuna-san. Ken-no-mine
bears about S.S.W., and the
round-topped mountain bear-
ing W.N.W. is Yakeyama^ ^
reputed to be an extinct vol-
cano. To the N.E., the view
lies over the plain of Echiga
to the Sea of Japan and the
Island of Sado. Not less than
7 hrs. should be allowed for the
ascent and descent, the latter
being steep and slippery in
many places. The mountain
is much frequented by pil-
grims during the season,
especially on the 23rd night
of the 6tli moon, old calendiGur,
when they ascend in great
numbers by torchlight from the
villages on the surrounding'
plains, but do not pass through
Akakura. — From Akakuiti a
path descends through Fnta-
mata, (26 cho) to Sekiyama, 1^
ri. The path to Taguchi station
Myokd'zan, KaoeUni to Xiigata.
225
is shorter, but the difference has
to be made up by rail.]
There is a falling gradient of
Skbout 600 ft. in the 4i m. traversed
"between Taguchi and^
Sekiyaina (Inn, Ogi-ya). The
ascent of Mydko-zan may also be
made from here, but it involves a
longer walk over the moor than
from Akakura. ' The gradient is
still heavy until Aral is reached,
"where the country becomes flatter.
Aral is a flourishing town noted
for tobacco, pueraria starch {hixu),
and petroleum, which last is ob-
tained from springs in the neigh-
l>ourhood. Here is first seen the
custom peculiar to most of the
towns in Echigo, of covered ways ^
Along the house-fronts, for use when
the snow lies deep in the streets.
Takata {Inn, Koyo-kwan) is a
large place, formerly the castle-
town of a Daimyo named Sakaki-
liara, one of the four families who
enjoyed the privilege of provyiing
a regent during the minority of a
Shogun. The town is traversed by
a long street, which bends re-
peatedly at right angles. Cotton-
"treaving is extensively carried on.
The Hokkoku Kaido branches off 1.
near here to the provinces of Kaga,
Xchizen, etc. (see Route 33).
Naoetsil (Innsy Matsuba-kwan,
Tamazald-ya), situated at the
mouth of the Sekigawa, is a port
of call for steamers to Niigata,
Tnshiki, and other places on the
"West Coast. It is also at present
•the terminus of the railway which
will ultimately reach Niigata, about
94 m. distant. This line, opening
up one of the richest provinces of
Japan^ is no less important for
strategical reasons. It will practi-
cally bring Niigata within one day
of the capital. Tunnels are to be
cat at several places on the coast
l)etween Hassaki and Kashiwa-
saki. Naoetsu produces . a jelly
called awa-ame, made from millet,
and appreciated by both Japanese
and Europeans.
About 1 ri to the S. of Naoetsu
lies the vill. of Qochi (Inn, Shimizu-
ya), a favourite resort during the
hot weather, where several good
tea-houses have been built on the
cliffs overlooking the sea. Ex-
cellent bathing may be had on the
long stretch of sandy beach imme-
diately below.
The traveller wishing to reach
Niigata, has a variety of routes to-
choose from. The easiest way is
to go direct by steamer which
leaves Naoetsu daily, from April
to November, calling at Kashiwa-
zaki, Izumosaki, and Teradomari.
The whole distance by sea is 34
ri, and is accomplished in 9 hrs.
The distance by land is a trifle
less, leading for the greater part
along either the sandy beach or a
ridge of sand-hills. The whole of
this coast as far as Teradomari
{Inn, Oshiki-ya), is inhabited by a
population of hardy fishermen; and
the sea yields sea-bream (tai), plaice
(fcdrei), and a kind of brill (hirame),.
in large, quantities and of great
size. The fish caught here are
considered much superior in flavour
to those taken off the coast of
Etchu further Wefat. The women
are strong and capable of the
hardest toil. They usually per-
form the labour of porters, and even
drag carts. Muslin made of hemp,,
and called Echigo chijimi, is woven
in the neighbouring villages, and
generally dyed indigo colour with
a faint pattern in white. The
Japanese esteem it highly as mate-
rial for summer clothing.
The journey may also be divided
between the sea, the road, and the
river by leaving the steamer at
Kashiwazaki {Inn, Tenkyo), 10 ri
from Naoetsu, where a road
branches off to Nagaoka (Inn, Masu-
ya), 7 ri, from which place, and
calling at 8anjb (Inn, Chochin-ya),
the river steamers take 5 or 6 hrs.
to Niigata. *
Or continuing the sea rout^
226
Route 32, — Niigata* Island of Sado,
to Izumosaki (Inn, Kakinoki-ya),
£i shorter land journey may be
made to Toita (Inn, Shiojin), 3 n,
where also the river is reached, and
from which Niigata is about 14
ri distance by steamer.
The itinerary by road for the
whole distance is as follows.
NAOETSU to :— Ri. Cho. M.
Kuroi — 35 2}
Katamachi 1 29 4|
Kakizaki 2 33 7
Hassaki 1 24 4
Aomigawa 2 27 6|
Kashiwazaki 1 34 4f
Arahama 1 18 3f
Shiiya 2 — 5
Izumosaki 2 29 6|
Yamada 1 23 4
Teradomari 1 22 4
Yahiko 3 7 7f
Takenomachi ....... 2 9 5i^
Akatsuka 1 22 4
Uchino 1 23 4
NIIGATA 3 19 8.J
Total 33 30 82^
I4ii$rata (Hotel by Miola called
Restaurant International ; Inns,
Yoshi-kwan, Kushisei), capital of
the prefecture of the same name,
is situated on a narrow, sandy
strip of land between the Shinano-
gawa and the sea.
Niij3:ata was opened to forei^ trade
in 1869; but the commercial eipecta-
tions formed with regard to it have
not been fulfilled, and the only foreign-
ers jiow residing there are a few mis-
sionaries. Owing to the bar at the
mouth of .the river, vessels of foreign
build cannot enter the port, but are
"Compelled to anchor in the roadstead,
outside. A supplementary port in the Is-
land of Sado,called Ebim-Mimtto, is open to
foreign vessels to take refuge in when the
^lirection of the prevailing wind renders
it dangerous to anchor off Niigata ; but
trade is not permitted there. The climate
of Niigata is very trying,— hot in summer
and tenibly cold in winter, snow falling
to a depth of 2 or 3 ft., and lying for a
considerable time.
The town, which covers an area
of rather more than 1 sq. mile.
consists of five parallel streefts
intersected by other streets and
canals. A line of low sand-hills
shuts out all view of the sea.
The houses are built with their
gable ends towards tbe street, and
the. roof 8 are prolonged beyond the
walls in order to prevent the snow
from blocking up the windows,
A great quantity of coarse lac-
quer ware is manufactured a^
Niigata, and articles of a peculiajr
pattern called mokusa-nuri, or * sea-
weed lacquer,' are brought for sale
from the district of Aizu where
they are produced. In the neigh-
bourhood of the city, Echigo chijifni
is manufactured from liemp. From
the small public garden surround-
ing the Shinto temple of Haka-
san, there is a fine prospect of the
river and of the lofty range of
mountains some 10 ri distant to
theE.
The chief excursion in the neigh-
bourhood is to the kerosene wells
of Niitsu, about 5 ri distant.
Travellers intending to proceed
north from Niigata, are advised to
take steamer to Sakata, Funakawa^
or Hakodate; or else they may fol-
low Boute 28 to Tsuru-ga-oks,
whence across country to Sendai
on the Northern KaUway.
Island op Sado.
The Island of Sado, which lies 32
miles W. of Niigata, can be reached
by small steamer from the latter
place in about 5 hrs. Steamers nm
daily from May to October ; for the
rest of the year the sailings are
irregular. Sado forms part of the
prefectiu-e of Niigata, has a popula-
tion of 111,000, and is princi-
pally noted for its gold and silver
mines situated close to the town of
Aikawa. These mines have been
worked from the earliest times.
During the middle ages, Sado was
used as a place of exile for political
criminals. Among those who were
relegated to its inhospitable shores
Route 33, — West Coast from Tswuga to Naoetsu, 227
was the Buddhist saint^ Nichiren.
The island is very hilly, consisting
of two groups of mountains, se-
parated by a cultivated plain. The
principal formation is limestone.
Aikawa (Inn, Takada-ya), though
it has a population of 13,000, is a
poor-looking pla<;e.
Ebisu (Inn by Ito Seiemon), where
passengers from Niigata generally
land, is a large but wretched vill.,
situated on a narrow strip of beach
between the sea and a lagoon.
The distance from Ebisu to Ai-
kawa is 6 ri 29 cho (I62 m.).
ROUTE 83.
The West Coast from Tsuruga
TO Naoetsu.
1. itineraries : MAIBARA-TSURUOA
BRANCH RAILWAY, TSURUGA TO
FUSHIKI, PUSHIKI TO NAOETSU.
2. DESCRIPTION : T8URUGA, PU-
KUI, KANAZAWA, FUSHIKI, [nANAO
IN NOTO,] TOTAMA.
1. Itineraries.
A four or five days' trip, enabling
the traveller to see something of
the coast of the provinces of Echi-
zen, Kaga, and Etchu on the Sea
of Japan, is that from Kyoto to
Tsuruga by the Tokaido and Mai-
bara-Tsuruga Railways, through
the historic old city of Kanazawa
in Kaga to the port of Fushiki in
£tchti« whence Naoetsu, the present
terminus of the Karuizawa-Naoetsu
Bailway« can be reached by steamer
in a night. The entire distance
between Tsuruga and Fushiki may
be accomplished in jinrikishas, bat
it is rough travelling.
Maibara-Tsuruoa Branch
Railway.
I r
w _ /^
Names
fl BS
of
Remarks.
3 W
Stations.
45m.
49^-
MAIBARA
See Eoute 38.
See Route 44.
Naga,hama
56i
Takatsuki.
57i
Inokiichi.
59
Kinomoto.
6ii
Nakanogo.
64f
Yanagase.
71
Hikida.
75i
Tsuruga.
76
KANA-QA-SAKI.
(Pier Station).
Itinerary from Tsuruoa to
Fushiki.
TSURUOAto:— Ri. CU. M.
Daira-ura 6 4 15
Takefu 4 35 12|:
FUKUI 5 4 m
SAKAI 5 — 124^
Kanatsu 2 15 6
Yossaki 2 23 6^
Daishoji 2 18 6
Komatsu 5 — 12|-
Matto 5 8 12i
KANAZAWA ... 4 28 Hi
Imaisurugi 6 32 16f
Takaoka 4 3 10
FUSHIKI 2 4 6i
Total 56 30 139
The best plan in fine weather,
however, is to abandon the land
for the sea during a portion of this
journey, by taking steamer from
Tsuruga to Sakai, a run of 4 hrs.
In the event of the steamer
between Fushiki and Naoetsu not
being available, the following is
the itinerary by road ; but travel-
lers are warned that the road is
mostly dull.
228 Boute 33, — West Coast from Tmmga to Xaoetsu,
PTTSHIKI to :— RL Oho. M.
Higashi Iwase ... 3" 5 7f
Namerikawa 3 6 7f
XJotsu 2 8 5^
Tomari 7 29 19
Itoigawa 9 6 22J
Nagahaina 9 8 22J
NAOETSU 2 18 6
Total 37 8 90|
2. — Description.
The railway journey between
Kyoto and Maibara is described in
fioute 38; and the shores of Lake
Biwa, as far as the next station^
Nagahama, in Route 44.
At Xagahamu {Inn, Masu-ya at
station), the railway leaves the
lake and the scenery becomes tame.
From Tanagase onward to Hikida
the line runs in narrow valleys
between wooded hills and through
several tunnels ; thence through
cultivated country down to the
coast of the Sea of Japan.
TsiiriijBrA has two stations, one
called Tsuruga, another, 5 min.
further on, called
Kana-ga-saki, or the Pier Sta-
tion. The latter {Inns, Daikoku-
ya, Sankai-ro) shoiiild be preferred,
as the steamer-office, bank, and
other useful institutions are in
its vicinity. Tsuruga has the
best harbour on the Sea of
Japan, and is in constant steam
communication with the lesser
ports up and down the coast. The
town itself is somewhat shut in ;
but a charming view of land and
sea is to be obtained by climbing
a little hill near the railway sta-
tion called Atago-yama, beyond
which again is the site of the
castle of the celebrated warrior
Yoshisada. The long promontory
closing in the bay on the W. side,
and sheltering it from those N. W.
blasts that render the winter on
this coast so terrible, is called
Tateishi-zaki. On its extremity
stands a lighthouse — ^not, however^
visible from the town. The streteli
of land to the N. E., which looks
like a promontory as seen from
Tsuruga, is called Kome-no-ura.
At Paira-iira the road leaves
the coast and strikes inland. Xt
improves somewhat after reaching
Takefii (Inn, Tatami-ya). This
place manufactures marbled paper,
cotton, silk, and hardware. One of
the most striking objects in the^
neighbourhood is the moimtain
of Hina-ga-take.
Fiikiii (Inns, Kashi-ya; restt.
Tsulvimi-ro), formerly the capital
of the Daimyos of Echizen, still
possesses the picturesque remains
of the castle which was their seat,
and a Hongwanji temple with
a beautiful view toward the hills.
To foreigners, Fukui will be fur-
ther of interest as having been
the residence from 1871 to 1872 of
the author of the * Mikado's Em-
pire,' the Rev. Wm. E. Griffis, to
whose pages the reader is referred
for a graphic and touching account
of the abdication of the Daimyo on
the 1st October, 1871, when tho
decree abolishing feudalism had
been issued.
Sakai, also called Mikiini (Inn,
Morota), the port of Fukui, ist
situated at the confluence of the
rivers Hino, Asuwa, and Kuzuryu,.
and has steam communication with
the other ports on the coast.
Daishojl (Inns, Daikoku-ya, Ka>
ruhana) was one of the places to
which the Christians of the neigh-
bourhood of Nagasaki were exiled
during the last i)ersecution of
1867-1873.
Komatsil {Inn, Shimotoku) was
formerly a castle -town belonging-
to the Daimyo of Kaga. Its chief
manufacture is silk gauze. Not
far from Komatsu, is the vill. of
Tartiashiro having hot-springs, but
worthy of notice chiefly from the
fact that it provides most of the
clay for the potters of Terai and
Kanazawa.
Maito produces oil, siUc, dye8»
Kanazawa, FushiJcL Nanao.
229
and cotton goods. The cultivation
in this district is carried on with
great industry and economy, even
the ridges between the rice-fields
being sown with beans or barley.
Kiinazawa {Inns, Ayabe, Asada,
Takabatake; European food at a
restt, in the public garden) was the
seat of the lords of the province
of Kaga, the richest of all the Dai-
myos. It is now the capital of the
prefecture of Ishikawa, which in-
cludes the provinces of Kaga, Noto,
and Etchu. It is both clean and
picturesque, and the hills above it
command a fine prospect. The
castle is now used as the head-
quarters of a military division.
I'o the r. of the castle is the
Public Garden called by the literati
the Sixfold Garden, because pos-
sessing six excellencies, viz. size,
pleasing appearance, labour be-
stowed upon it, an air of antiquity,
running water, and a cliarming
view. The grounds contain an In^
dustrial Museum (kivangyd haJmbw
tsu'kwan), and a fine monument
erected to the memory of the sol-
diers who fell fighting in the Satsu-
ma^ rebellion. The monument,
which was erected in 1880, consists
of a pile of large stones on which
stands a handsome bronze figure
of Yamato-take, over 18 ft. high.
At Kanazawa the celebrated
Kutani porcelain is to be procured
in abundance. A visit should be
Jwiid to the potteries of Gankwa-do
near the Public Garden, where
the processes of making and paint-
ing the porcelain can bo inspected.
Bronzes inlaid with gold and silver
(xogan), and fans are also manu-
factured.
Iniaisiiriigi (Inn, Tokko-ya) is a
flourishing place.
Takaoka (Inns, Akai-ya, Etchii-
ya) is situated in a cotton-weaving
and silkworm-breeding district,
and is noted for its dyeing and
manufacture of hardware. It is a
large place, stretching for a mile
or more along the road.
Fnslilki {Innshy Okada, Ueda)„
on the coast has attained some
importance of late years as a port
of call for steamers, but is other-
wise unattractive.
[An excursion may be made from
Fushiki to Naiiao, the capital
of the province of Noto.
This pi-ovince, the Jutland of
Japau, obtains its name from the
word noffu, which means * peninsula '
in the language of the former Aino
aborigines.
Itinerary.
FUSHIKI to :— Ri. Cho. M.
Himi 2 28 6^
Ninomiya 3 33 9.^
NANAO 2 17 6
Total 9 6 22^
Though the road is osten-
sibly meant for jinrikisha
traffic, the heavy nature of
the soil and a pass called the
Arayama-toge, which has to be
encountered on the way, gene-
rally necessitate walking as
far as Ninomiya. There is
fair accommodation both at
Himi and at Nanao.
Nanao (Inn, Ogome-ya) is
a considerable town situated
on the shores of a minia-
ture inland sea, across which
toy steamers ply. The chief
attraction in the neighbour-
hood is the mineral spring
of Wakura, 6 m. distant,
which is much resorted to by
the people of the country-
side. But it, and indeed the
province of Noto generally, —
low, sandy, and poor in historic
associations — are little calcu-
lated to interest the foreign
visitor. Mr. Percival Lowell,
the well-known traveller and
author of * Noto : An Unex-
plored Comer of Japan,' after
having divided all places into
two sorts, namely, those worth
seeing but already seen, and
those not yet seen but not worth
230
rL02U(' 3 J:. — Mountains ttf Ktchu and Hida.
seeing, says, *Wakura struck
mo as falling into the latter
halves of both categories/]
The best halting-places between
Fushiki and Naoetsu are Uotsu
{Inn, Hakata-ya), and Itoi-gawa
{Inn, Hayakawa). The last day of
the journey is also the most pic-
turesque, as the road leads for
several miles along bold cliffs by
the shore, commanding a glorious
view of the Sea of Japan.
For Naoetsu see p. 225.
Travellers who may be desirous
of visiting
Toyama {Inns, Taisei-kaku, Eu-
ropean food ; Ki-ya), (tai^ital of the
prefecture of the same name an<l
of the province of Etchu, can do so
by taking a small boat from Fushiki
to Higashi-Iwase {Inn, Kushi-ya),
a small port at the mouth of the
Jinzu-gawa, in about 3 hrs., whence
to Toyama is 2 ri 2 chd by jinriki-
sha. Toyama can also be reached
more directly from Takaoka by
jinrikisha all the way, a distance
of 5 ri 29 chd. Toyama was formerly
the castle-town of Matsudaira Shi-
gematsu, a cadet of the Maeda
family, of which the Daimyo of
Kaga was the head. The castle is
now utilised as a school. Its prin-
cipal trade is in medecines and
leather. The sn6w-capped summit
of Haku-san is a striking object
in the landscape. Toyama is a
good starting point for those who,
approaching them from this side,
wijh to penetrate into the wild
mountainous districts.of Etchu and
Hida, described in the next Eoute.
ROUTE 34.
The Mountains op Etchu ano
Hida.
1. introductory remarks. % tate-
yama. 3. from toyama to taiia-
yama in hida by the valley of*
the takahara-bawa. 4. kai«^a-
zawa in kaga to takayama by
the valley of the shirakawa.
5. takayama to matsumoto a^i>
ueda by the hirayu and abo
passes ; ascent of norikura.
[takayama to matsumoto by thk
nomugi pass.] 6. takayama to
gifu on the tokaido railway.
7. takxvyama to fukushima ox
the nakasendo. 8. yari-ga-take.
9. nagano to toyama over thk
harinoki pass. 10. ontake and
the koma-ga-take of shinshu.
11. HAKU-SAN.
1.— Introductory Eemabks.
The provinces of Etchu and
Hida may be conveniently taken
together, because hemmed in be-
tween the same high mountain
ranges which render this region
exceptionally difficult of at cess,
and have prevented it from being
much visited even by the natives
of the surrounding provinces.
Lying completely beyond the reach
of railways and modern civilisa-
tion, no part of Japan has changed
so little of late years.
l^ho range bounding these pro-
vinces on the E. is the most con-
siderable in the Empire. The
only one that can compare with it
is that lying between the Fuji-
kawa and the Tenryii-gawa in the
provinces of Koshii, Shinshii, Su-
ruga, and TotOmi. Many of the
peaks are streaked with snow
until the early autumn, while in
some of the recesses and gorges
where it is partially screened from
Introihictory Uemarlcs, Tateycaua,
231
tlie sun's rays, the snow never
entirely disappears. Extending
almost due N. and S. for a length
of ^ or 70 miles, with a breadth of
from 5 to 10 miles, this range
fonns a well-nigh impenetrable bar-
rier to communication from the S.
and E. It consists chie^y of granite,
overlaid in places with igneous
rocks. Norikura and Tateyama
are volcanic peaks. The highest
and most conspicuous of the nume-
rous i)eaks, beginning at the N.,
aire as follows :
FT.
Tateyama 9,500
Yari-ga-take 10,000
Norikura 9,800
Ontake 9,800
Haku-san 8,900
Koma-ga-take 1 0,300
Among the wild animals of this
region may be mentioned bears,
doer, the goat-faced antelope, and
two kinds of boars. The streams
abound with trout. The few inha-
Ijitants are hardy, simple folk, clad
in hempen garments, often with
the addition of an antelope skin,
and earning a scanty living by
hunting, wood-cutting, and char-
coal burning. Their food consists of
buckwheat and millet, while barley,
hemp, beans, and mulberry-leaves
form the other chief i^roductions
of the valleys.
It will thus be seen that the
mountaineer has but hard fare to
expect, and will be wise to provide
himself with as many tins of meat,
pr^ssrved milk, etc., as can be packed
into a small compass. The recom-
mendation is advisedly framed in
these terms; for much luggage
cannot be carried, owing to the
ji^eneral scarcity of men to carry it.
Needless to add that the accommo-
dation is often of the roughest.
Only at Toyania the capital of
Etchu, at Takayama the capital
•of Hida, and at a few other of the
larger towns, is the ordinary stand-
ard of Japanese provincial comfort
attained. Should the varying effi-
ciency of the carrying companies
which undertake to forward goods
from one portion of Japan to an-
other permit, comparative comfoi-t
and plenty may be ensured by send-
ing boxes of food, extra clothing,
books, and whatever else may lt>e
required, ahead to the chief towns
through which one expects to pass.
It is, however, always advisable to
leave a good margin of time, as the
Japanese are not to be relied on for
punctuality or despatch.
For practical convenience sake,
three mountains have been in-
cluded in this rovite that do not
topographically belong to it — Ha-
ku-san, Ontake and the Koma-ga-
take of Shinshii — because, though
not actually forming part of the
same range, they are not far dis-
tant from it, and are likely to
interest the same class of travel-
lers, and to bo visited during the
same trip.
The district treated of in this
route may be best approached
from one of three sides, viz. from
Ueda or Nagano on the Kaiaiizawa-
Naoetsu llailway ; from Fuku-
shima, fuither south in Shinshii;
or from the Sea of Japan, on which.
side Toyama is the most natural
starting-point. The two former
approaches are to be j>ref erred by
travellers from Tokyo, the last by
those coming from Kyoto.
2. — Tateyama.
Tateyama is the collective name
given to the lofty summits which
stand on the E. border of the
province of Etchii, and which,
together with the jagged peak of
Tsurugi-dake, form the N. ex-
tremity of the greatest range of
mountains in Japan. The highest
of the peaks (Go-honsha), is abont
9,500 ft. above the level of the sea.
The main ascent leads up the W*
side of the mountain from the ham-
let of Ashikura, which can be
easily reached from Toyama.
The road up the mountain is
282
liotite 34, — Mountains of EtcJni and Hida,
aiduoas in parts, nor is there any
shelter, except two or three wretched
huts, to be got during the whole
distance of 20 m. from Ashikura to
the Muro-do, 2.V m. from the sum-
mit. The Muro-do itself is but a
somewhat better hut, which is
opened for the accommodation of
pilgrims from the 20th July to the
10th September. No bedding is pro-
curable, nor any food except rice.
[In a valley situated about 6 did
to the 1. of the Muro-do are
the remarkable solfataras of
Ojigoku (*Big Hell'). The
whole valley seems alive with
I)Ool8 of boiling mud and
sulphur.]
From the Muro-do hut to the
highest summit, whose name of Go-
honsha comes from the picturesque
temple with which it is crowned, is
1 hr. climb, partly over snow. At
the end, a truly superb panorama
unfolds itself before the spectator's
gaze. The nimil^er of mountains to
be distinguished is extraordinarily
great. To the extreme 1., looking
eastward, are seen Myoko-zan,
Myogi-san, and Yoneyama in
Echigo, Nantai-zan near Nikko, and
Togakushi-san and Asama-yama
in Shinshii. Towards the S. rises
the range of Yatsu-ga-take, with
the isolated peak of Tateshina-
yama, beyond which are seen Fuji
and the high jjeaks of Shirane and
Koma-ga-take in Koshii. Further
S. a^ain are Koma-ga-take and On-
take in Shinshu ; Yari-ga-tako,
Norikura, Kasa-ga-take, and in
closer proximity, Yakushi-dake, all
in Hida. To the S.W. is Hakn-san
on the borders of Kaga. Below, to
the W., lie the plains of Kaga and
Etchu, the latter watered by the
rivers Jinzu and Jogwanji, while to
the N. the view is bounded by the
Sea of Japan.
3. — From Totama to Takatam-a.
IN Hida by the Valley of tmis.
Takahaea-gawa.
Itinei'ai'y.
TOYAMA to :— Bi. Cho. 31.
Kumano 1» IS 3|
Okubo 1 18 3|
Machinaga 2 18 6
Yoshino 2 — 5
Inotani 1 — 2.i
Uriishi-yama 4 — 9|
Funatsu 2 — 5
Terabayashi 1 — 2.j
Yamada 1 — 2.}
Suyama 1 — 2.V
Yokamachi 2 — 2.^
Hirose 1 — 2.j
TAKAYAMA 2 8 5i
Total 22 26 55^
The above distances are only
approximate. At the hamlet of
Kumano the road crosses the
Kumano-gawa, and, after passing
through Okulo, ascends to the
hot springs of Yaki, where, enter-
ing the mountains, it continues up
the r. bank of the Jinzii-gawa to-
Machinaga. So far it is possible^
to take horses ; but beyond this
point all baggage must be carried
by cattle or on coolies* backs. From
Machinasra onwards the scenery be-^
comes romantic. The road follows
the side of a deep precipice and in
some places quite overhangs jthe
stream, being built out on projecting
logs of wood. In the ravine l^clow
is the Jinzii-gawa, at times flowing
along in silence, a deep, smooth^
placid sheet of water, at other tinics
dashing with impetuous violence.
On the inner side of the path, a
swift stream flows along a canal
constructed in 1807 to convey
water to Nihonmatsu and other
villages in the plain to the E. of
the Jinzu-gawa. Each curve of
the road discloses new and more
charming views of the river. Monn-
tain torrents tumble down the
gnlUes on the 1., leaping from rock
1
allei/8 of the Ta7ia7iara-(/aica and ShiraJcmra.
233
i» i-ock to join the rush of waters
far below. After passing the ham-
lets of Terazu and Usunami, the
traveller reaches Yoshino (poor
-accommodation). Close to this
vill., the Jinzu-gawa is crossed
in a kago-watashi. Fine salmon-
trout weighing from 4 to 8 lbs.,
-ai-e taken in the river. A four-
pronged spear, which fits into
A staff having a stout line attached
to it, is used for catching these
fisH. Ai and iwana are also taken
by netting. The seasons for fisliing
Are the end of spring and the
beginning of autumn. After Yo-
shino the road ascends, and
-comes to a more open part of
the valley cultivated with tobacco
-and potatoes. Before reaching
liwtani, close to the boundary of
the provinces of Etchii and Hida,
the Jinzii-gawa curves away to the
r., while the path to Funatsu
follows the r. bank of the Taka-
hai*a-gawa, one of its affluents.
There is a very picturesque view
At the forking of the rivers, and
■almost the whole of the way hence
to Funatsu is one of continued
rugged grandeur. The copper-
smelting works of the Maebira
mine at Daira, which is one of the
most productive in Japan, are
passed shortly before reaching
Fniiatsii {Inn by Kakeni Gon-
shichi), a fair-mzed place, where
horses can again be engaged for
the transport of baggage to the
«nd of the journey. On the way
to Yainada is a small pass called
Akasaka, 3,850 ft. above the sea,
and 1,600 ft. above Funatsu. The
tea-house of Sakakoha, j m. down
on the other side, may be recom-
mended for a short halt on account
of the beautiful view which it
commands across the Yokamachi
valley and the low pine-clad hills
separating this valley from that of
the Miyagawa and the plain round
Takayama. At Hirose jinrikishas
<^an sometimes be obtained.
Takayamii (Inn, Taniga-ya), the
capital of Sida, is divided into
three main parts, called respec-
tively Ichi-no-machi, Ni-no-machi,
and San-no-machi. The shops are
poor. A good panorama of the
town and neighbouring mountains
can be had from Shiroyama, a hill
close by on which a castle formerly
stood. It is only a ten minutes'
chmb.
4.-=^From Kanazawa in Kaga to
Takayama in Hida by the Val-
ley OF THE ShIRAKAWA.
Itinerary,
KANAZAWA to:— Ri. Chd. M.
Futamata 2 28 6|
Fukumitsu 2 26 6f
Jo-ga-hana 18 3
Shimo Nashi 4 4 10
NishiAkao 2 26 6f
Tsubaki-hara 3 10 8
lijima 2 18 6
Herase 2 30 7
Kurodani 3 27 9|^
Mumai 1 33 4f
Kami Odori 2 18 6
Maki-ga-hora 2 26 6f
Mikka-machi 10 f
TAKAYAMA 1 20 3|
Total 34 32 85i
This route is not practicable for
jinrikishas except between Fuku-
mitsu and Jogahana, and again
between Mikka-machi and Taka-
yama. Jinrikishas are always to
be found at Fukumitsu, but at
Mikka-machi they cannot be de>
pended on. Horses are not pro-
curable in the valley of the Shira-
kawa, and baggage is transported
by cattle or on coolies' backs.
Fairly good accommodation can be
had at most of the villages. The
scenery is delightfully picturesque,
and there are many magnificent
distant views. Neai* Jo-ga-hana la
a pool called Navoa-ike, or the Bto/pB
Pool, which is regarded with super-
stitious awe by the people of the
23 i
Eoiite 34, ^-Mountains of FAchu and Hula,
'whole country-side. It is visited
by pilgrims and the inhabitants of
the surrounding district after the
rice harvest is over ; but from the
time of planting out the young
rice until the harvest is reaped, no
one will approach the spot, it being
supposed that if any one does so,
storms and destruction of crops will
follow as a punishment awarded by
the deity under whose presiding
care the pool is jjlaced. So firmly
indeed is this superstition engrained
in the minds of the peasantry,
that watchmen from the different
hamlets are selected to guard the
T-arious approaches to the pool,
and the inhabitants have also
bound themselves, under penalty
of banishment from their native
place, not to act as guides to any
travellers before the harvest is
over.
5. — ^Fbom Takayama to Matsumoto,
AND TO UeDA on THE KaRUIZAWA-
Naoetsu Railway, by the HiPwA-
Tu AND Abo Passes. Ascent of
NOKIKURA. [NOMUGI PaSS.]
Itinerary.
TAKAYAMA to :— Ri. Clio. M.
Matsunoki — 15 1
Hachi-ga-machi ... 1 ' 3 2^
Otani 1 — 2^
Hiomo 1 17 3i
Kate 1 28 4]
Hirayu 2 8 5.V
Top of Abotoge ... 2 — 5
Descent to Azusa-
gawa 2 — 5 ,
Top of Hinoki-toge. 1 — 2.^
Onogawa 1 — 2^
Kumanosav/a 3 2^ 9
MATSUMOTO
(about) 1 18 18|
■» . —
Total 25 6 Ol.^
Leaving the E. end of Takayama
*(see p. 233), the road traverses the
Till, of Matsunoki, where a rope
stretched across the valley testifies
to an ancient superstition. Ac-
cording to the date at which the
weather causes this rope to snap^
omens are drawn for the crops of
the ensuing twelve month. It is-
replaced yearly on the 7th day of
the 7th moon . This spot is one of
the ' Eight Views * of the province
of Hida. At the top of the Tete-zaka,
before descending to Hachi-o-a-
machi, the summits of Yari-ga-
take, Kasadake, Norikura, and On-
take come in view. At the temple
of Genraiji in Hachi-ga-iiiachi the
priests are willing to receive for-
eigners. There are several other
temples on the road as far as.
Hiomo, where accommodation cau
be had ; but after the latter place
it is not possible to stay anywhere
until reaching Hirayu. The first
part of the walk is extremely pic-
turesque, and the road is good as.
far as Hiomo, beyond which it is
but a pathway. At Kuie com-
mences the ascent of the Hirayu
Pass, whicli lies throusrh the forest
for a little more than 1 ri. The
descent on the other side, also 1 ri,.
is extremely steep, down to the
hollow between high mountains
where nestles the little hamlet of
Hirayu (fair accommodation)^
This place is frequented by the
people of the province for tlie sako
of its strengthening mineral hot
waters. The only sight in the neigh-
bourhood is a cascade some 200 ft>
high, formed by the river Taka-
hara near its source, and distant
13 cho. The snowy mountain to
the N.W. of the vill. is Kasadake.
Hirayu is abandoned during the
winter months, when the people
return to Otani. The road now
passes over the Aho-toge, called
also the Shinano-tbge (6,400 ft.),,
into the province of Shinshiu
Pedestrians use this pass in prv-
ference to that of Nomugi, tht»
distance being 3 ri shorter ; but
the way is not practicable for
horses or cattle. Yari-^'a-take and
Tahayama to Matswnoto, Ascent of Xorikiira,
235
Kasadake 1., and Haku-san to the
S. W., are seen diirinjj the latter
part of the ascent; but from the
suxniuit of the pass the view is
aliuost entirely shut out, nor is
there any extensive prospect on
t;h.e way down. There are several
resting-places suitable for a midday
Iia.lt.
Oliog-awa (Inn by Okuta Kiichi)
is a small viil. picturesquely situ-
ated on the banks of the Maegawa,
an affluent of the Azusa-gawa, at a
lieight of 3,300 ft.
[From this place it is possible to
ascend Norikiu*a. But as the
climb to the suumiit and back
may prove too much for one
day, the traveller is advised
to sleep at the furthest hut,
about 1^ ri higher up, on
the way to which are passed
the remains of old furnaces,
heaps of slag and ore, etc.,
indicating the site of the
once extensive smelting works
of Obi Ginzan. In the side
of the hill near by, are seen
the openings of the levels
of the old mine, which has
not been worked since 1860.
The ore consists of galena
containing a small quantity
of silver. The sleeping-hut
(4,800 ft.) stands not far from
a small stream abounding in
excellent trout. There is no
road from the hut to the sum-
mit, and only occasional traces
of a path. At the end there is
a climb up a steep snow-field,
and then over lava blocks and
scoriae, which finally lead to the
small shrine of Asahi Gongen
on the highest point of the
mountain, 9,800 ft. above the
sea. Time from the sleei^ing
hut, at least 4 hrs. Norikura
is an old volcano, the peak
being really one of the sides
of the crater from which ex-
tensive lava-flows have j^oured
out, notably in the direction
of Onogawa. Near the sum-
mit is a lake.]
From Onogawa to Kumanosawa
is a charming walk down a secludod
gorge walled in by densely wooded
moLiutains, while below rush first
the Maegawa and then the Azusa-
gawa, spanned at intervals by
picturesque bridges. After Kuma-
nosawa, the mountains open out to
form the plain of Matsiimoto (see p.
220). From Matsumoto, the station
of Ueda on the Karuizawa-Naoetsu
Railway can be reached by carriage
in 6 hrs.
[An alternative way from Taka-
yama to Matsumoto is over the
Nomugi Pass. The Itinerary
is as follows.
TAKAYAMA to :—
m.
Kabuto 3
Kibyu-dani ... 2
Naka-no-shuku 1
Nomugi ..'. 3
Kawaura 3
Yoriaido 2
Nyu-yama 2
Inekoki
SHIMASHIMA 1
Niimura 3
MATSUMOTO 1
Clw.
1
31
13
23
31.
7i
7
3|
9
^.k
18 ()
— 5
18 l\
*}i
— ^a
18 8.\
18
• >;»
"4
Total 24 32 Gl
Nomugi and Shiniashima
are the T)est places to stop at
on the way.]
6. — From Takatama in Hi da to
gifu on the tokaico railway.
A road called the Hida Kaidoleads
from Takayama down the valley of
the Hidiigawa to Gifu on the To-
kaido Railway. The first part of
the way — that lying within the
province of Hida — affords delight-
ful views. But on crossing the
frontier into Mine, of which Gilu
is the capital, one meets with a
sudden change in the character of
the scenery, bare sandy hillocks re-
236
lioute 3Jf. — Mountains of Etchu and Hida.
placing the well-wooded valleys and
rooky I'avines of the earlier portion.
Oero, also called Yunoshima, pos-
sesses mineral springs. There is
fair accommodation on the way, es-
pecially at Shimohara. The road
is practicable for jinrikishas.
Itinerary.
TAKA YAMA to :— Ri. Cho. M.
Kukuno 3 4 7h
Oesaka 3 32 9|
Hagiwara 3 17^
Gero..; 2 4 5^^
Uoido 3 18 8^
Shimohara 3 — 7i
Kanayama 14 1
Kamibuchi 3 13 8i
Nakanoho 1 33 4f
Seki 5 1 12i
Akutami 2 4 si
GIFU 2 6 5i
Total 33 22 82
7. — From Takayama in ^Hida to
FUKUSHIMA ON THE NaKASENDO.
Itinerary,
TAKAYAMA to :— Ri. Cho. M.
Kabuto 3 1 7i
Kibyii-dani .., 2 31 7
Naka-no-shuku ... 1 13 3^
Kami-no-liara 1 18 3f
Adanogo 1 5 2f
Hiwada 2 20 6^
Kami Nishino 3 — 7 J
Suegawa 2 1 5
Km-okawa 3 — 7^
FUKUSHIMA ... 1 — 2h
Total... 21 17 62^
As far as Nishino, baggage is
generally carried by women, some-
times by cattle. Though either
means of transport is objection-
able, there is apparently no other
alternative. Beautiful views oc-
cur all along the route. The
best accommodation is at Kami
Nishino, whence it is possible to
ascend Ontake, a climb of 7 ri ; but
the way is a difficult one, and
either of those given on pp. 238-9 is
to be preferred.
8. — Yabi-ga-take.
Yari-ga-tuke, lit. Spear Peak, is
most easily reached from the Shin-
shii side via Ueda on the Karni-
zawa - Naoet-su Kailway, Matsu-
moto, and Shimashima (see p. 220).
The way up the mountain — no^w
a mere track where formerly there
existed a proper road — ^leads over a
pass 7,000 ft. high, before descend-
ing to the bank of a rivulet where
stands the sleeping hut (Tokumota
no koya) at an altitude of 4,960 ft.,
and at a distance of 7 or 8 hrs. from
Shimashima. Inconvenience arises
from the fact of this hut being too
far from the summit of the moun-
tain for the ascent and descent to
be easily accomplished on the same
day. Another hut, called Miya^a-
wa no koya, 3 ri further on at
the actual base of the mountain,
is a better starting-point, bnt
difficult to reach in one day from
Shimashima unless the baggage
be sent on in front. In this
quandary the traveller must make
his own choice. We should, how-
ever, advise go'ng on the first
day from Shimashima to the Tohu-
moto no koya, where sleep ; ascend
the mountain, and return to a rude
shelter called Ahasa no koya on the
second day, returning to Shimashi-
ma on the third. We should also
propose that, in addition to the
guide, the traveller take with him
a strong coolie to carry him across
the torrent, which has to be forded
many times, occasionally almost
waist-deep. The distance from the
Miyagawa hut to the summit is
called 6 ri. The ascent can be
accomplished in 7 hrs., and the
descent in 4^ hrs.
The route lies alternately up one
side or the other of the bed or banks
of this torrent for about 3 hrs. On
the 1., steep, craggy granitic moun-
tains rise to a height of from 7,000
ft. to 8,000 ft., while on the r. are
Yan-ga-tuhe, The HannoJci Pass,
237
-tamer wooded hills. Noble moun-
i»;ins are these precipitous masses
of granite, surpassing in wildness
^ny to be seen elsewhere in Japan,
iiheir curiously steep forms being
not unlike some of the ideal crags
•depicted in Chinese art. Perhaps
there is no part of the country in
so tridy primeval a state — with the
-exception of some pai-ts of Yamato
— than this torrent valley in the
heai-t of the Shinano-Hida range,
■whose sole frequenters are hunters
seeking bears or the sheep-faced
a>ntelope. At an elevation of
6,400 ft., a rude shed called
Akasdka no Iwa-goya, a camping-
place for hunters, is passed ; and
just above here the forest ceases,
And the first snow-field is crossed.
Hence the road lies mostly over
snow ; but just below the summit,
between the peaks, the route winds
up and among huge bare masses of
rock piled in indescribable confu-
sion. From the irregular resting
of some of these crags, so called
• caves ' are formed, wherein the
hunters take up their quarters
whilst watching for bears. Ptar-
migan are common here. A stiff
<;linib up snow and over debris,
and a rather dangerous scramble
up one side of the peak, land the
traveller on a table of a few square
yards of rock, the top of the * spear '
■of the mountain.
^. — From Nagano to Toyama in
Etchu over the Harinoki
Pass.
The gi'eater portion of the follow-
ing itinerary and of the description
given below must be regarded as
approximate only, the difficulty of
keeping communication jopen acr^css
so rugged a country being pecu-
liarly great. There is no possibility
of crossing the pass before the yama-
hiraki, or * mountain opening,* on
the 20th June. Even during the
summer months communication is
often entirely interrupted, and
none but the most experienced
mountaineers can hope to succeed
in forcing a path for themselves.
Itinerary.
*NAGANO to :— Ri. Cho. M.
Sasadaira 3 18 &^
Shimmachi 2 18 6
dbara 1 — 2^
Hashigi 1 18 3f
So 1 — 21
Omachi 2 30 7
Noguchi 18 IJ
Shirazawa 2 18 6
Maruishi-bashi ... 1 2 2^
Top of Harinoki
Pass 1 21 3f
Futamata 24 If
Kurobe 2 11 5f
Top of Zaragoe ... 1 7 3
Yumoto 2 — 5
Yanagiwara 31 2
Seko 1 6 2f
Hara..: 3 — 7i
Omi 1 — 2i
Kamidaki 3 — 7i
TOYAMA 3 — 7i
Total 36 6 88i
Jinrikishas can be taken as far
as the hamlet of Koichi, where the
Saigawa is joined and from which
point the scenery becomes pretty.
One ri before reaching
Shimmachi {Inn^ Kome-ya), the
road passes over the Yanoshiri-
toge, a steep ascent of 18 cko.
The descent to the hamlet of Anadaira
on the other side was the scene of a great
convulsion in the year 1817, when, owin^^
to an earth([uake, the river was dammed
up by a fall of masses of earth from the
hills on 1x)th sides. A small cuscade
marks the spot where the waters after-
wards Inoke through. Boats formerly
* Or NAGANO to:— Bi. ChO. M,
Sasadaira 3 18 B\
Kakajo 2 — 6
Takebu 2 — 6
Pemmi 2 — 5
OMACHI 3 18 8i
Total 13 — 31f
This is the postal roate, but that givem
in the text is more picturesque. '
238
lloiite 34, — Mountains of Etchu and tiida.
-went all the way down from Matsumoto
to Nagano, but their passage has ever
since been interrupfcecl at Anadaiia.
Omachi {Inuy Yama-cho) presents
an old-world appearance, owing
to its flat-roofed wooden houses
like the cottages in the Alps, with
heavy stones to keep down the
shingling. At Noguchi, where com-
fortable quarters can be obtained,
enquiries should be made as to the
state of the road, and stout-limbed
guides engaged for the ascent of
the Harinoki Pass. Under favour-
able conditions, the next day ought
to bring the traveller to Kurobe.
The summer limit of the snow
on the Harinoki Pass is reached
about 1 ?-i from the top, at an eleva-
tion of 5,300 ft.
From the summit (7,700 ft.), Fuji
is seen as in a vignette between
the ranges of Yatsu-ga-take and
Koma-ga-take, the other most note-
worthy feature of the view being
Tari-ga-take.
£A peak called GoroJcu-dakey 9.100
ft., may be ascended from this
point ; but there is no shelter
to sleep in.]
The traveller now leaves the
province of Shinshii for that of
Et<ihu, and will notice, both on the
Bummit and on the way down, the
alder-trees (hari-no-kiy or han-tio-
ki) which give their name to the
pass. The valley on this side is
known as the Harinoki-sawa.
Kurobe is a tiny hamlet with a
fishing stream. The road from
Kurobe to the baths of Yunioto lies
over two steep ascents, the Nukui-
dani-toge and the Zaragoo. The
Tiew from the toj) of the latter is
magnificent. All around, enor-
mous landslips and confused mass-
es of rock, hurled down from the
toi>s of the mountains to the gorge
below, bear witness to the terribly
destructive forces by which this part
of the country has been ravaged.
The rocky mass in front is one of
^he slopes of Tateyama, while on
the 1. a view of the soft plains of
Toyama and of the sea beyond
contrasts agreeably w^ith the savage
aspect of the nearer landscape.
The Jinziigawa is seen in the plain
wending its way towards the Sea
of Japan, and the blue outline of
the provinces of Kaga and Notc^
fills up the distant background.
The descent is through a wilder-
ness of rocks and stones. Here and
there sulphur fumes are seen rising-
from the mountain side.
Yninoto, or Ry uxaii-jita, situated
in a desolate waste, possesses liot-
springa. All around is a chaos
of large boulders, sand, and stones.
Mountain sides da shed down by the
violence of the carthtiunke of 1858 still
remain a mass of confusion to tell the
tale of awf i.l destruction which then oc-
cuiTcd. A large portion of Tombi, the
precipitous mountain S. of the baths, fell
right across the valley and dammed up
the stream. A month later, when the
sno"\v melted and the vrater burst thronph
its baiTier, the villaKCS below, ri<?ht away
dowu the valley of the J6f?wanji-gawH,
were deluged with liquid mud; and houses^
fields, and human beings were over-
whelmed in one common destruction.
On leaving Yumoto, the path
continues down a ihagnificently
rugged gorge, called Dashiwara-
dani at its upper end.
It is often necessary to cross the
Jogwanji by a kago no ivatashi, or
basket slung to ropes. Before
descending to Kamidaki, the best
general view of Tateyama and of the
range forming the boundary of the
province of Etchti is obtained. The
names of the highest summits, in
order from the 1., are as follows : —
Tsurugi-dake, Kodake, Go-honsha,
Jodo, Tombi, Kuwasaki, and Ari-
mine-Yakushi. The road onward
crosses a well-cultivated plain, and
joins the Hokkoku Kaido a few cho
before reaching Toyaiua (see p.
230).
10. — Ontake and the Koma-ga-
TAKE OF ShINSHU.
The best starting point for the
ascent of Ontflke for those ap-
proaching it from the Nakasendo
Ontake, Koma-f/a-take, Ilahi-san.
2Sd^
side is Fukushiinaj whence it may
Gsusily be climbed in one day, or
Agematsu, whence the expedition
is rather too long for one day,
making it generally advisable to
spend the night at the Ta-no-
bora hut. The climb is a some-
what rou(^h one^ The view from
the summit embraces Haku-san to
the N.W., then to the r. the penin-
sula of Noto, and still further to the
r. a row of mighty peaks that bear
traces of snow even during the
greatest summer hc^ats. Conspi-
cuous among these peaks are Tate-
yauia, Yari-ga-take, and Noriktira.
Par to the N.E. rise tlie volcano of
Asama and the chain separating
the provinces of Kotsuke and Shin-
shii. To the S.E. appeiir Yatsu-
ga-take and far-oli" I'uji, with the
Koma-ga-take of Shinshu in the
nearer distance.
The Shinshii Komn-^a-talie is
most conveniently ascended from
Agematsu. The distance from
that village to the summit is
called 4 ri 8 chu, and the ascent,
part of which is very steep, will
occupy a good walker over 5 hrs.
The native pilgrims, who do not
care to make the round of the
various peaks forming the top of
the mountain, but merely wish to
visit Go-honsha, the liighest point,
usually ascend and descend in one
day. But the traveller is recom-
uionded rather to time his excur-
sion so as to sleep at a hut called
Taniakaho, 3 ri 32 cho from Acrema-
tsu, in order to witness the magni-
ficent spectacle of sunrise from the
summit. Looking eastwards, the eye
sweeps along an almost continuous
line of mountains rising beyond the
valleys of the Chikuma-gawa and
Tcuryu-gawa, the prominent sum-
mits in order from the 1. being
Asama-yama N.N.E., Tateshina
N.E. by N., Yatsu-ga-tako N.E. by
E., Koma-ga-take E. by N., and,
directly oj^posite, Shirane-ga-take,
-including its three summits Kai
j
gane-san, Aino-take, and Nodori-
san. The sharp peak seen between
Koma-ga-take and Kaigane-san is
the siunmit of Ho-6-zan. To the
S.E. rises a lofty, snow- streaked
range with three conspicuous sum-
mits, the highest of which is called
Akai-ishi. Another striking featiu-e
is the cone of Fuji, which towers
up beyond a dej^ression to the r. of
Isodori-san. Looking westward,
the view embraces a consider-
able portion of the great chain
forming the boundary between the
provinces of Shinshu and Hida,
the most prominent summit being
Ontakc, bearing N. of W., to
whose r., rising in succession to
the N., are Norikura, Kasadake^
Iwasu-<jra-take, and Yari-sra-take.
In the distance, the peaks of Tate-
yama are discernible beyond Yari-
ga-take. Towards the W. the dis-
tant outline of Haku-san is visible^
while in nearer proximity to the S.
rises Ena-san in the province of
Mine. There is also an extensive
view over the province of Mikawa
and a portion of Enshii, with
several mountains, including the
double summit of Horaiji-yama in
the former province and Akiha-san
in the latter.
11. — Haku-san.
This celebrated mountain, stand-
ing on the borders of the four
provinces of Echizen, Kaga, Hida,
and Mino, is best ascended from
Kanazawa, the capital of Kaga (see
p. 229). The itinerary to Yimioto
at the base is as follows :
KANAZAWA (Oliashi) to:—
Ri Cho. M,
Tsurugi. 3 — 7\
Onnawara o 29 14]
Ushikubi 4 4 10
YUMOTO 5 — 12]
Total 17 33 43if
There is fair accommodation at
all thejie i)laces. The road is prac-
2A0
Route 35, — Ba pills of the Tem't/u-gmva.
ticable for jinrikishas only as far
as Tsuiiigi. From Ushikubi on-
wards the scenery is delightfully
picturesque. Yumoto is completely
ahut in by densely wooded hills,
^nd is deserted in winter by its
inhabitants, who do not return till
the beginning of June. The
ascent and descent of the moun-
tain make an easy day's expedi-
tion. The glorious view from
the summit includes Tateyama
N.E., Yai-i-ga-take E.N.E., Nori-
kura a little to the S. of E., Yatsu-
ga-take and the Koma-ga-take of
Koshu in the dim distance, Ontake
E.S.E., and the Koma-ga-take of
Shinshii. In the immediate neigh-
bourhood are Bessan on the S., and
Onanji on the N., which, with the
central and highest peak called
Gozen-mine, together constitute the
three summits of Haku-san. On
the N.W. rises the lofty top of
Shaka-ga-take. On the E. side is
Tsurugi or *the Sword,' so called
from its pointed rocky peaks, and
on the W. is the Oku-no-in. Two
tarns lie at the bottom of what are
apparently ancient craters.
Haku-san may also be reached
from Fukui in Echizen by the fol-
lowing itinerary, the route being
practicable — j ust practicable — for
jinrikishas as xfar as Katsuyama,
but the accommodation all along
the road wretched. On the other
hand there is some fine wild scenery.
Itinerary.
FUKUI (Arahashi) to :—
Ri. Cho. M.
Matsuoka 2 4 5|
Komyoji 1 22 3f
Katsuyama 4 — 9f
Kogo.^ 2 8 6.}
Kotaro's Farm-
house 2 32 7
Top of Kijikami
Pass 1 18 3J
Mizutani 2 — 5
YUMOTO 18 3
Total 17 20 42}
ROUTE 35.
The Eapids op the Tenbyu-gawa.
[IlDA TO NaGOYA by THE InA.
Kaido.]
These rapids, the finest in
Japan, are also among the mosrfc
accessible, for they form a natural
route connecting the two chief
highways of the central portion of
the Main Island. — the Nakasendo
and the Tokaido. The village
where one embarks is called Toki-
llinta (Inn, *Umeno-ya). It is
reached by travelling along the
Kakasendo as far as Shimo-no
Suwa, on Lake Suwa, thence to
Matsushima {Inns, Mon-ya and
Tsuta-ya) on another important
highway called the Ina Kaido, and
along that highway to lida (/*in,
Iwaki - Masu-ya), a large and
flourishing town, formerly the re-
sidence of a Daimyo named Hori.
The poition of the Ina Kaido
which is included in this route is
by no means lacking in the pic-
turesque. It also brings the tra-
veller into the vicinity of the
Shinshu Koma-ga-take, which may
he ascended from lijinia (Inn,
Enoki-ya).
Itinerary.
SHIMO-NO-SUWA to :—
Ri. Cho. If.
Matsushima 6 ^ 15
Ina 2 18 6
Akao 3 6 7f
lijima 1 31 4i
lida 5 27 14
TOKIMATA 2—6
Total 21 15 52i
The beSt accommodation on the
way is at Matsushima, and at
Saka&hitn (Inn, Yorozu-ya), half-
way between Matsushima and
Akao. The whole way from Shimo-
no-suwa to Tokimata is practicable
for jinrikishas and can ecisily be
accomplished in two short days.
But the occasional roughness of
The Tenryu-gawa. I'ula to Nagoya,
241
"tbe latter part of the route neces-
sitates the taking of two jiurikisha-
men. The passage by boat from
^^okimata down to the Tokaido
occupies 12 hrs. The total distance
"travelled by water is estimated at
36 ri — say 90 m. — but the latter
portion of this is along a compara-
tiively sluggish current. The boat
cloes not take the traveller actually
to the Tokaido Railway. If bound
up the line in the direction of
Tokyo, he alights at Ikeda, for the
station of Nakaliziimi, 1 ri 8 cho
distant; if down the line in the
direction of Kyoto, he alights at
Kakano-machiy for the station of
Hamaiiiatsil, 1 ri 28 cho distant.
Another good halting-place is Unna
(Inn, Ikeda-ya), a resort of pilgrims
en route for the shrine of Akiha-
san (see Route 38).
The charge for a boat was fixed
in 1890 at §20, the justification of
this seemi^gjy high price being
the fact th^gfit takes from 10 to 12
days to tow the boat up stream
again. Boats being not always in
readiness, it may be advisable to
write ahead (in Japanese, of course)
to the innkeeper at Tokimata to
order one with 4 boatmen. Tra-
vellers are also recommended to
time their movements so as to
arrive at Tokimata on the after-
noon previous to their descent of
the rapids. This will enable them
'to make all arrangements overnight
and to start early. A spare hour at
Tokimata can be pleasantly spent
in visiting the picturesque bridge
less than 1 H down the river, at the
spot where the rough-and-tumble
part of its course begins.
The scenery of the Tenryti-gawa
is most striking. After passing
the bridge mentioned above, the
river enters a rocky ravine, and
from this point on to Nishinoto, a
passage of some 6.^ hrs., is almost
one continued series of rapids and
races. Walled in between forest-
clad mountains that rise abruptly
to a height of from 1,000 ft. to 2,000
ft., the river twists and tears along-
their rocky base, carving for itself a
channel where there seems no pos-
sible means of exit. It is in such
places that the skill of the boat-
men will be most admired, where
the boat, which looks as if it must
be dashed to pieces in another
moment, is shot round the corner
only to be whirled on to some new
danger equally exciting. Fortu-
nately for the lover of the pictur-
esque, some blasting which was un-^
dertaken a few years ago with a view
to facilitating the transport of pro-
duce, has had no very marked effect
in marring the ruggedness of nature
in this place. On approaching a
rapid the man forward beats the
bow of the boat with his paddle,
both as a signal to the others and
in the superstitious belief that it
will bring good luck. Of the
rapids i)roperly so-called, there are
upwards of thirty, the finest of
whicli_ are : Yagura (The Turret),
near Oshima ; Shiii-taki (New Cas-
cade), 3 H below Mitsushima; Taka-
ze (Hiiih Rapid) ; Chdna (Adze),
just beyond Otaui ; Konnyaku (Po-
tato) ; Shiror-nami (White Waves) ;,
lori ga taki (lori's Cascade) ; and
Tania-buro (Mountain Bath), the
grandest of all, notwithstanding its-
homely name.
[Nagoya, on the Tokaido RaiU
way, may be reached from lida
by following the Ina Kaido to-
Nebano, from which place to-
Nagoya is a distance of 22 ri
32 cho through the Potteries
(see next Route). The road is-
heavy and difficvilt for jinriki-
shas. The itinerary from lida-
to Nebane is as follows :
IIDA to :—
Nakamura . . .
Komamba 2
Ono 1
Namiai 2 10 5i
Hiraya 2 5 5|
NEBANE 2 18 6
Ri. Cho. M.
1 14 3i
2 5
13 3i
Total 11 26 28^
242
Houtc 36. — From Xafjo}ja to Xvhane
This altornative way of
roach iuj? the Tokaido from
Tida may bo found of use in
the event of any accident pre-
ventincf the boat journey down
the Tenryu-gawa.]
ROUTE 3G.
From Nagoya through
TEEIES TO NeBANE ON
Kaido.
Itinerary.
XAGOYA to :— J?».
Seto 5
Shimo Shinano ... 1
Shimo Hadagawa..
Ichinokura 1
Tajimi
Oroshi 1
Sogi 2
Okawa 1
Akechi 2
Kam imura 3
NEBANE 3
Total 22
THE POT-
THE IXA
Cho.
9
12|
Ol
^ 2
27 n
— n
3
27
3
33
38
23
15
2^
4-J
8f
71
32 55f
This road is practicable for jin-
rikishas as far as Seto. It leaves
Na.jroya by Ozone, a suburb on the
N.E., and traverses in succession
the insignificant villages of Yada,
Moriyama, Obata, Omori, Arai, and
Imamura, crossing the wide bed of
the Yadagawa just before entering
Moriyama. From this point it
l^asses over large tracts of flat
sandy soil, producing nothing but
pine scrub. On the r., some 2 m.
distant, a range of low hills is
visible. Just before entering Seto,
a path 1. branches off direct to the
vill. of Shinano.
Seto consists of four hamlets
named Kita Shingai, Minami Shin-
gai. Go, and Hora, situated on the
low hills that surround an almost
Kjircular valley. There are about
eighty households engaged in tHe
manufacture of porcelain, and
seventeen or eighteen where com-
mon pottery is made. The porce-
lain clay is found in the immediate
neighbourhood, the silica bein^
brought from Sannagi in the N.W.
corner of Miliawa, about 3 ri dis-
tant. A large part of the couiinon
pottery known as Seto ware comes
from Akazu, about 1 rl further iip
the valley E. The best porcelain
makers for the foreiiifn market are
Kawamoto Masukichi in Kita Shin-
gai, and Kawamoto Kansuke in Go.
Kato Gosuke in Minami Shingai is
celebrated for his translucent white
ware, chiefly small pieces. An-
other superior maker is Yamakyii.
Specimens of their productions may
most easily be obtained at the
warehouse of KatO Kanesuke in
Kita Shingai. Most of the pot-
ters work under advances from
capitalists in Nagoya ; and as soon
as ?ifourn^e is baked they despatch
it thither, so that it is of little use
going direct to them for their
wares.
Seto lins been so fnmons for its ceramic
prcMluctseversiiu'e the l.'ith century, when
Kato Shirozneinon set up his kilu for th«
manufacture of faience, that the word
Sefo-iuoiio, lit. ' .SV/o thing's,* has come t,o he
used in Japanese as a preneric name for
all pottery and i>orcelain, much as the
word China is used in English.
The road now winds up a sandy
valley and then along a ridge
of sand hills to Shimo Shinano,
where a little porcelain is baked
and clay is dug for the common
pottery made at Naka Shinano.
The porcelain clay used here comes
from Seto. The path to Ichino-
kura crosses a small stream on the
1., and, climbing up to the top of
another pine-scrub waste, suddenly
plunges into a deep ravine with.
densely wooded rocky sides, be-
tween which flows a noisy stream.
This spot is called Ja-no-hara, or
the ' Serpent's Belly.' Desceniting-
to the mouth of the ravine, the
path comes to Shimo Hada^wa^
throufjh the Potteries,
24B
siii'l, crossing the stream to the r.,
jiroceeds ui> the valley to Kami
Icliinokura, and over the hill to
Kasawara, where there are some
I>otterie3. It then descends the r.
side of the valley to
Tiljiilli {Inn, Matsu-j^a), a con-
siderable vlll., where inferior porce-
lain is made. A short cut may
"be taken through Shimo Ichino-
kura, where is i^roduced the finest
l)orcelain in Mine, with delicfite
<lecoration8 in light blue de-
rived from the impure Chinese
■cobalt. Kato Gosuke is the best
maker, chiefly of tea-pots, te.a-cups,
and sake cups. The kilns used for
producing the state called biscuit
iXTG also utilised for yakl-tsuke, or
porcelain with a design over the
glaze.
From Tajimi the path turns up a
hill to the r. about the middle of
the vill., and traverses undulating
granite hills. On the way nuiy be
seen a place where clay is dug for
baking seggars, and further on is
a small mill driven by water-power,
where the silicious stone used for
glaze and for mixing with the porce-
lain clay is ground. About 1 hr.
walk from Tajimi the path divides,
the r. branch going to Tsumagi, and
the 1. descending to Oroshi, where
common porcelain wares, chiefly
sake bottles and tea-pots, are pro-
duced. Near the entriince of the
vill. is a small mill where the
porc<?lain clfiy is broken up and the
felspar sifted out. The best potters
are Yasaburo Hanzaemon and
Kato Yaheiji. Most of the produc-
tion goes to Tajimi. Tsumagi lies
\ ri S., where large articles of com-
mon porcelain, such as dishes
sind basins, are made. The native
cobalt called konjo is found here,
and is used to produce the pale blue
so much admired by connoisseurs.
A darker shade is derived from an
impure cobalt imported from China,
and known among the potters as
kyugosu. Our word cobalt has
been corrupted by them into ko-
haru^ and tliis term is employed to
denote the pure pigment obtained
from Europe. At the E. end of the
village the path divides, the 1.
branch going to Dachi, where finer
porcelain is produced, and the r.
climbing a ridge to a considerable
height, which commands a fine
view of the country W. A quarter
of an hr. between the sandy hill-
tops covered with box, brake,
junipers, and young pine-trees
brings us to the top, 1,500 ft. above
the sea. The descent on the other
side leads to Sogi, where there are
one or two potters. Crossing the
bridge and looking down the stream,
we see the lofty round top of Ena-
san. Sogi is chiefly agricultural,
and extends over two valleys, di-
vided by a low ridge, at the top of
which the path falls into the main
road from Seto to Iwamura by
Shinano and Kakino. After de-
scending slightly the road rises
again through the second part
of Sogi, and crossing rough,
granite hills of the same general
appearance as before, but rather
steeper, comes down into the tiny
hamlet of Okawa. During the
descent Ena-san N.E., and the
Koma-ga-take of Shinshu N.E. by
N. are seen well away on the hori-
zon. Some potters, who limit
themselves to making porcelain
rice-bowls, are established at the W.
end of the hamlet. At Mizukami,
^ ri further, are a few potters, while
at Mashizume, a considerable vill.
^ ri beyond, a large quantity of
inferior porcelain rice-bowls are
produced. Here accommodation
can be had for the night; bnt
better quarters will be found 2^ ri
further at
Akcclii {Inn, Sumiyoshi-ya), a
small but thriving town. Porce-
lain, chiefly tea-cups and rice-
bowls of no artistic value, is baked
in the town, the materials bein^^
obt-ained from Mashizume and
Hara in its vicinity. The pottery es-
tablishment dates only from 1875.
244
Boute 37.— The Shinto TemjAes of he.
Akechi Mitsuhide, the traitorous gene-
ral who murdered his lord, Nobunagra,
took his sumainc from this place, and the
foundation walls of his castle are yet to
be seen on a hill above the town.
This is the end of the pottery
district. On leaving it the scenery
gradually improves, sandy hillocks
being replaced by thickly wooded
hills, and two passes of over 2,500
ft. being crossed before reaching
Nebane (Inn, Snmiyoshi-ya).
This is a great centre of traffic
between the provinces of Shinshii
and Mikawa, the latter sending
fish and raw cotton, for which Shin-
shii returns tobacco, hemp, and
dried persimmons.
Instead of returning the way he
came, the traveller may make an
agreeable round journey by follow-
ing the Ina Kaido to lida, 11 ri 30
chh by jinrikisha, and then descend-
ing the Rapids of the Tenryu-gawa
to the Tokaido ; or he may continue
on from lida along the Ina Kaido,
and join the Nakasendo at Shio-
jiri. The itinerary of the latter
way is as follows.
IIDA to :— Hi. Cho. M.
Akao 7 19 18i
Matsushima 5 27 14
SHIOJIRI 5 31 14}
Total 19 5 46i
Another way, shorter than the
last, is from Nebane to Toyohashi
on the Tokaido Railway via the
noted temple of Horaiji.
Itinerary.
l^EBANE to : - Ri. Cho. M.
Taguchi 4 28 11^
• Ebi 2 24 6.^
Shinshiro 4 19 11
TOYOHASHI ... 4 25 11.}
Total 16 24 40f
ROUTE 37.
The Shinto Temples of Ise.
1. preliminary information. 2*.
voyage from yokohama to yok-
kaichi and kami yashieo. 3-
yamada and neighbourhood-
the temples of ise. 4. from
yamada to kyoto by road anix
kwansei railway.
1. Preliminary Information.
Ise is the name, not of a town^
but "of a province lying to the E,
and S.E. of Kyoto on the W. shore
of Owari Bay. The temples, which
rank chief among the holy places
of the Shinto cult, stand on the^
outskirts of the town of Yama-
dii near the S.E. frontier of the
province. The ways of reaching^
Yamada are as follows :
I. From Tokyo to Atsuta (former-
ly called Miya) on the Tokaido-
Railway, 1st day; thence by small
steamer via Yokkaichi and Tsu
to Kami Yasliiro, the port of
Yamada, from which it is 1 H
16 cho (3.2 miles) by jinrikisha,
2nd day. Atsuta being the next
station to Nagoya, some may
feel disposed to spend the night
at the European hotel at tho
latter place rather than at one of
the Japanese inns at Atsuta. It
would still generally be possible to
catch the steamer leaving Atsuta
next morning. *
II. Instead of the railway, take
the steamer direct from Yokohama
to Yokkaichi, where tranship as
above for Kami Yashiro. This
shortens the time by half a day in
fine weather.
III. From Kyoto by the Tokaido-
Railway as far as Kusatsu Junc-
tion, and thence ]'>y Kwansei Rail-
way to Seki, 4 lirs., whence jin-
rikisha to Yamada via Tsu and
Matsuzaka in 1 day. When the
line is opened from Seki on to Tsn„
the journey will be considerably
Preliminary Information, Yoyafje to YokJcaichi, 245
a1>ridged. At present the schedule
is as •follows: —
KwANSEi Railway.
Names
e a *
*
OS S si
of
Remarks.
S M
Stations.
KUSATSU Jet.
5Sm.
Ishibe.
10
Miknmo.
15
Fiikawii.
224
Tsuge.
314
SEKI
CAlifflit for
', Ise.
(36
Kametfama.
45
Kawarufiit.
*
4)1
Yokkuichi.)
IV. There is a cross-country road
from Nava to the Temples of Ise,
practicable for jinrikishas and
occasionally affordinsj pretty views.
It is much frequented by pilgrims.
The trip takes 2\ days, the itine-
rary being as follows :
NARA to— jBj. CU.
Sakurai 2 20
Hase 1 23
Haibara 1 J 5
Sambon-matsu 2 17
Nabari 2 1
Ao 3 4
•Iseji 35
Kaito 2 18
Onoki 2 13
Rokken 3 —
Matsnzaka 1 27
YAMADA 5 1
M.
^\
4
0
o
7^
0
:A
71
121
Total 28 30 70
The main Ise road is joined at
Rokken. The best inns at the
various places mentioned in the
above ways to Ise are as follows : —
At Atsuta, Okada-ya, Ise-
kyu.
Hase, Idani-ya, Yo-
shino-ya.
Iseji, Momiji-ya.
Kaito, Momiji-ya.
Kami-Yashiro, Ozaki-ya.
Matsuzaka, Tai-ya.
Nabari, Tawara-ya.
y*
y*
y*
y*
»»
n
At Nagoya, Shina-chii (Ho-
tel du Pro-
grea), * Shu-
kin-ro.
Onoki, Fuji-ya.
Rokken, Hotei-ya,
Sakurai, *Taba-ichi.
Sambon-matsu, Mushi-ya.
Seki, Uo-ya.
Tsu,. *Waka-roku.
Yamada,. *Abura-ya.
Yokkaichi, Hamada-ya.
It should be premised that the
interest of the trip to Ise is chiefly
antiquarian. Without going so far
as to say, with a disappointed tour-
ist, that " there is nothing to see,
and they won't let you see it," we^
may remind intending travellers of
the remarkable plainness of all
Shinto architecture, and add that
the veneration iu which the shrines
of Ise are held is such that none
but the priests and Imperial per-
sonages are allowed to penetrate
into the interior. The rest of the
world may only peep through the
outer gate.
2. — The Voyage to Yokkaichi
AND Kami Yashiro.
The Tokaido Eailway journey
being fully described in Route 38,
we shall suppose that the traveller
has elected to go by sea, and advise
him to begin by enquiring whether
there is any European food to be
had on board, and if not, then
to take provisions with him for
the 18 or 20 hrs. voyage from
Yokohama to Yokkaichi, as well
as for the further voyage next day
on to Kami Yashiro. The voyage
is the same as that described
in Route 40 as far as the entrance
of Owari Bay, where the track
diverges, the steamer turning to
the r. up the bay near the head of
which Yokkaichi is situated. The
scenery at the entrance is very
pretty. The ship passes between
r. Irako-zaki, the hilly promontory
that forms the S.W. extremity of
246
Route 37. — TJie Shinto Temples of Jse,
the province of Mikawa, and 1. the
islet of Kamishima, behind whose
white and red cliffs lie otlior larger
islands and the mainland of the
diminutive province of Shima.
Ahead and to the r., as the
ship glides into the still waters
of the landlocked bay, are seen
portions of the provinces of Mikawa
and Owari, notably Cape Moro-
zaki, the tip of the peninsula
on which stand the commercial
towns of Handa and Taketoyo, con-
nected with the Tokaido by a
branch line of Eailway.
At Yokkaiclli it is necessary to
land in a small boat. Indeed the
extreme shallowness of Owari Bay
prevents any but quite small craft
from approaching the shore at any
point. The Hamada-ya inn is at
the landing-place. Tall chimneys
rise above the roofs of the houses,
giving the town an appearance
which, at least for Japan, is
peculiar. The situation is a good
one, there being fresh breezes from
the bay in summer, and a fine pro-
spect of the mountains on the
borders of Omi and Iga. Among
the principal products of Yok-
kaichi may be mentioned oil, rice,
paper, silk, and Banko faience,
— a ware, for the most part,
exceedingly light and having hand-
modelled decoration in relief. The
best Banko shop is that kept by
Kawamura Matasuke in Minami-
machi ; but as every variety of this
cheap and fascinating ware is
easily procurable in Yokohama and
Kobe, there is no call to stop
over a steamer on its account.
At Yokkaichi the excellent Nip-
pon Yiisen Kwaisha Steamer is
exchanged for a small coasting one.
Leaving Yokkaichi, the views are
delightful as one skirts the W.
shore of Owari Bay. In the dis-
tance are the mountains of Omi,
Iga, and Ise, and in the fore-
ground a pine-clad beach, forming
a delicious symphony of yellow,
green, and greyish blue, especially
when seen through the opal haze of
spring or autumn. The steamer
calls in at Tsu, the capital
of the prefecture of Mie, at sl
little more than half-way to Kami
Yashiro ; total time of voyage,
about 5 hrs. (If one embarked at
Atsuta, then from 7 to 8 hrs.)
[It is possible to travel on in tlie
same steamer right round the
coast of the province of Kislio,
calling in at some twenty small
ports, and ending up at Kobe
and Osaka. The coast scenery-
is charming, but the means of
transit too uncomfortable to
be recommended unless fine
weather were a certainty.]
The Ozaki-ya inn at Kami
Ynsliiro is at the landing-place.
The road on to Yamada is excel-
lent. Indeed throughout the pro-
vince of Ise the excellence of the
roads, of the jinrikishas, and the
jinrikisha-men adds considerably
to the traveller's enjoyment. It is
also possible to travel in carriages
which resemble small prison- vans.
.Pilgrims avail themselves largely
of this method of progression, which
is cheaper than jinrikishas, but
also slower.
, 3. — Yamada and Neighbourhood ;
The Temples of Ise.
Yamndn {Inns, *Abura-ya, and no
less than 269 others, great and
small) is a large town formed by the
amalgamation of several smaller
ones — Y''amada proper, Uji, Furu-
ichi, etc. It lives by and for the
Ise pilgrims, as do all the towns on
the road leading to it from the
North. So openly is this fact
acknowledged that the construc-
tion of the projected Sangu Tetsvdo,
or Pilgrim Eailway, from Tsu
to Yamada, has been temporarily
abandoned in order not to ruin the
country-side. The inns and tea-
houses of Yamada are peculiarly
lively, especially at night. At some
of them a celebrated dance is per-
Yamada.
247
formed, called tlie lae Ondo. This
dance possesses much grace, added
to the interest of a considerable
antiquity. Unfortunately, how-
ever, the character of the houses
at which alone it is generally
to be witnessed precludes us from
recommending a visit thither. A
religious dance called Kagura is
executed at the temples before
those pilgrims who choose to pay
for it. It is divided into three
grades, called "Small," "Great,"
and " Extra Great " (Shd, Daiy DaU
dai). The charges for these dances
were in 1891 as follows :
Ise Ondo $ 2
8hd Kagura 5
Dai Kagura 10
Dai-dai Kagura 20
Among the peep-shows and booths
in which the main street of Ya-
mada abounds, are some devoted
to yet another kind of dance which
may be seen for a cent or two. It
is called O 8ugi 0 I'ama. The fun
consists in the spectators flinging
coppers at the iaces of the girls
who form the little orchestra, and
who are trained to -such skill in
* ducking ' that it is said they are
never hit. The chief objects for
sale at Yamada, besides holy pic-
tures and other articles of Shinto
devotion, are ornamental tobacco-
pouches made of a i)eculiar sort of
oil-paper.
The best way to see the sights of
Yamada and neighbourhood is to
go the following round which takes
a day by jlnrikisha to do comfort-
ably : — ^f rom the inn to the Gekii
Temple, Futami, Asama-yama, the
Naikd Temple, and baek to the inn.
The road is flat and good, except-
ing up Asama-yama, where there is
an ascent of 22 cho on foot, the jin-
rikishas being meanwhile sent
round the base to await the traveller
on the other side. One may con-
veniently picnic either at the inn
at Futami or on the top of Asama-
yama. It may be mentioned that
local Japanese parlance indicates
respect for the great temples by
suffixing the word San, * Mr./ to
their names, — thus Naikii San, GekvL
San, pronounced Naixan, Gexan,
Thousands of pilj^i-iins resort nnniially
to the temples of Ise, chietly in spring-,
wheu the country-folk have more leisure
than at other seasons. The rationalistic
educated classes of course take little part
in such doinirs ; but even at the present
day the majority of artisans in 'J^okyo,
and still more in Kyolx) and Osaka,
believe that they may find difficulty in
^aininc; a livelihood unless they invoke
the protection of the tutelary goddesses of
Ise by performing? the piljri-imaKe at least
once in their lives, and the peasants are
even more devout )>elievers. In former
times it was not uncommcni for the little
shop-boys of Yedo to abscond for a while
fi-om their employers, and to wan<ler
alonj? the Tokaido as far as Ise, subsist-
in*? on the alms which they bejjr^ed fn>m
tmvellei-s ; and having obtained the bun-
dle of charms, consisting of bits of the
wood of whiph the temples are built, they
made their way home in the same manner.
This surreptitious method of performing
the pilgrimage was called uKkp-mairl, and
custom forba<le even the sternest ]>arent
or master from finding any fault witli the
young devotee who had ])een so far for so
holy a purpose. Stories are even told of
dogs having performed the pilgrimage hj
themselves. Those whose home is Kyoto
are m**t by their friends at the suburb of
Keage on their return home. The custom
is for these friends - mostly females - to
ride out singing the tune of the Ise Ondo
dance, three persons being seated on each
horse, one in the middle, and one on
either side in a sort of wooden hod or
basket. High revel is held at the tea-
houses with which Keage alxiunds. This
custom is termed naku'innkiii. . The Ise
pilgrims may l)e distinguished bj'- their
gala clothes and by the large bundles of
charms wrapped in oil-paper or placed in
an oblong varnished ]k)x, which they
carry suspended from their necks by "a
string.
The special characterof sanctity attach-
ing to the Ise temples arises ]>artly from
their extreme antiquity, partly from the
pre-eminence of the godclesses to whom
they are dedicated. The iW/iA-S, lit. ' Inner
Temple,' is l^elieved by the Japanese to
date from the year 4 B.C., and is sacred to
the Sun-Goddess Ama-terasu, ancestress
of the Mikados. Down to the 14th century,
some virgin Princess of the Imperial
family was always entrusted with the
care of the mirror which is the Sun-God-
dess's emblem, and of which some Japa-
nese writers speak as if it were itseU a
deity, while others take it to he merely
the image of the goddess. It is kept in
a box of chamaecyparis wood, which rests
£48
p.fjute 37.— The Shiiitu Temples of he.
on a low stand covere<l with a piece of I
white 8ilk. The min-or itself is wrai)i)etl ,
in a bHjf of brocHcle, which is never opened ,
or renewed ; Init when it l)ej?ins to fall to
pieces fi-om a«<e» another liag is pnt on, |
so that the actual coverinj? consists of
many layers. Over the whole is placed a
jBort of wcxxlen cage with onraments said i
to be of pure gold, over which again is
thrown a cloth of coarse silk, falling to i
the floor on all si<les. The coverings of
the box are all that can l)e seen when the |
doors are ojiened at the various festivals.
The 6 flu, or 'Outer Temple,' so-called
hecause of its slightly inferior sanctity, is
now dedicated to the Go(hless (»f Food, '
Toyo-uke-bime-no-Kami, also called Uke-
mochi-ncvKami, but was in earlier times
under the patronage of Kuni-toko-tachi-
no-Mikoto, a g(Ml whose name signifies
literally * His Augustness the Karthly
IStemally StandingOne ' In either case
this temple may l)e considered as sacred
to the worship of a deification oE the
earth, wliile the Xaiku is dedicated to a
deification of the sun, the great ruler of
heaven. The native authorities do not in-
form us of tlie cliHrHcter of the emblem by
which the Karth-(TO<ldess is represented.
As in the ease of other .'^hinto temples, so
here also at Ise many secondary <leities
{ai-dono) are invoked. Those of tlie yuilu
are Taj ikai-a-o-no- Kami, lit. * tbe .-trong-
Handed-Male-Deity,' who pulle<l tbe Sun-
Goddess out of the cave to which she bad
retired to avoid her brother's ill-usage,
and a gcKldess who whs one of the ances-
tresses of the Imperial line. The second-
ary deities of the (rein arc Ninigi-no-
Mikoto, gnindsou to the Suu-Gtxldess and
ancestor of the Imperial liue. and two of
the gods who attended him on the occa-
sion of his descent from heaven to earth.
A very ancient rule i)rescril>es that the
two gieat Ise temples, as also every minor
edifice connecte*! with them, shall l)e
razed tt) the ground and i-econstructed
every twenty years in exactly the same
style down to'the mimrtest detail. For
this purpose there are, lioth at the Nailu
and at the GAu, two closely adjacent
sites. The construction of the new tem-
ples is commenced on the vacant sites
towards the end of the pericwl of twenty
years ; and when they are finished, the
ceremony of Senyyo, or * Tiunsference,'
takes place, the sacred emblems l)eing
then st)lemnly and amidst a great con-
ocmrse of pilgi'ims removed to the new
buildings from the old. These are forth-
with pulled down and cut up into myriads
of channs (o hurui), which are sold to
pilgrims. The renovation last took place
in October, 1889. The immemorial anti-
quity of the Ise temples is therefore only
the antiqnit.^' of a continuous tradition,
not that of the actual edifices. It is pro-
hable, however, that at no time for many
cjenturies past could Ise have l)een seen to
such advantage as at present, when the
lainnte and enthusiastic researches of
four generations of scholars of the ' PhintQ*
Revival ' sch{K)l Into the religious archaeci-
log>- of their nation have at last met
with official enc(mragement, and the
priests have l>een endowe<l with the pecw-
niar:^' meaus to realise their dreana of
restoring the Japan of to-day to th^
religious in-actices, architecture, and
ritual of pristine ages untouched by the-
foreign influence of Buddhism.
Leaving the Aburaya inn and
wending through the town, wo
pass r., in Okamoto-cho, the Shim-
pu Kosha, where are sold small gold
and silver medals called Shimiju
inscribed with the name of the-
Gekri temple, together with other
cliarms.
The Gvku Temple. The approach
is pretty. A Shin-eny lit. 'divine-
park/ containing a circular lake^
has replaced the houses and field*
that covered the place previous to-
1889, and beyond rises a hill finely
timbered with cryptomerias, hugti-
camphor-trees, maples, keyalcl, and
the sacred though not imposing
masakaJci (Cleyem japonica). Thtf
main entrance is by the Ichi »io
Toni, or ' First Archway,' to whoso
r. is the Sanshusho, lit, * Place of
Assembly,* where members of tht^
! Imperial family change their
garments i)revious to worshippintjj-
in the temi)le. A broad road leads.
I hence through the trees to the
i temple. A short way up it is the
Ni no Torii, or ' Second Archway/
near which is a shop for the sale
of pieces of the wood used in the
I construction of the temple, packets
of rice that have been offei*ed to
' the gods, and o fuda, or paper
I charms inscribed with the name of
, the Goddess of Food. Next door is
I a buildingwhere the fcagura dances
are performed at the request of
pious pilgrims, and where the food
I offerings are sold for a few sen
i a meal. Beyond these buildings
! we soon reach the enclosure con-
taining the Geku, or actual temple,
concealed for the most part behind
a succession of fences. The outer
fence, called Ita-gaki, is built of
cryptomeria wood, neatly planed
The Gehu Temple,
249
.and unpainted. It is 339 ft. in
width at the front, and 835 ft. in
the real* ; the E. side is 247 ft., the
"VV. side 235 ft. long, so that the
jshape is that of an irregular
olilong, the formation of the ground
rather than any necessary rela-
tion of numbers having determined
the proportions. The temple on
the alternative site, which was hewn
-down in 1889, had its long side
E. and W., and the short N. and S.
A little to one side of the middle
of the front face is the principal en-
trance, formed of a torii similar to
those already passed, but of small-
■er dimensions. The screen opposite
is called a hampei. There are four
other entrances in the Ita-gaki
'formed each by a torii, one on each
Bide and two at the back, one of
which belongs to the JlfiAre-d^n, where
the food offerings are set out twice
daily. The S. toHi gives access to
a small court, the further side of
which is formed by a thatched
^gateway ordinarily closed by a
white curtain, while the ends are
formed by the Ita-gaki. On the 1.
hand is a gate-keeper's lodge.
Unless the pilgrim be an Imperial
personage, he is prevented by the
curtain from seeing much further
into the interior; but by ascending
Ji bank on the W. side of the en-
closure, some idea of the general
arrangement of the temple build-
ings can be gained.
The curtain here mentioned has a
melancholy historical interest. Viscount
Mori, Japanese Repi-cscntative first at
Washin^on and then at the Court of St.
.Tames, afterwnwls Minister of Education
3ind one of the foremost leaders of modem
Japanese projyress, was nssassinated Ijy a
Shinto fanatic' for havinj?, when (m a
visit to Ise, lifted this curtain with his
walkinp:-8tick in order to obtain a lietter
view of the interior of the temijle court.
'ITie muKler did not take place at once,
but some months later, on the 11 th
February, 1889, as Mori was donning his
«»la imi'form for the ceremony of the pro-
mulgation of the Japanese Constitution.
The assassin, one Nishino Buntaro, was
immwliately cut down by the Minister's
-attendants ; but by an obliquity of judg-
ment not uncommon in Japan, popular
sympathy ranged itself so markedly on
his side as against his unfortunate victim,
that i)ilgrimHges were made to his grave
in the Yanaka cemetery at Tokj'O, huii-
flreds of wreaths and sticks of incense
were place<l upon it, and odes composed
in the assassin's honour. The populu*
infatuation even Avent so far that it was,
and ))erhaps still is, l)elieve(l by many
that Nishiiio Buntaro' s intercession with
heaven will ensure the fulfillment of any
desire offered up to the go..ls through him.
The thatched gate-way above-
mentioned is the principal opening
in a second fence called the Ara-
gakiy composed of cryptomeria
trunks alternately long and short,
placed at intervals of about 2i ft.,
with two horizontal railings, one
running along the top, the other
along the centre. The distance of
this fence from the outer enclosurd
varies from 10 ft. to 36 ft. on dif-
ferent sides of the square. Besides
the torii on the S., there are jbhree
others, one on each side, correspond-
ing to the other three main en-
trances of the boarded enclosure.
These are unusual in style, being
closed with solid gates, an aiTange-
ment rarely seen in Shinto tem-
ples. In side the thatched gate-way
is a shed 40 ft. by 20 ft. called
tlie 8hijd-den, a restoration of one
of three buildings anciently
called Naorai-dono, which were
set apart for the entertainment
of the envoys sent by the Mikado,
after the celebration of the Kan-
name no Matsuri, or 'Festival of
Divine Tasting.' Just inside a
small torii are the ishi-tsuho, — spaces
marked out by larger stones, r. for
the Mikado's envoy, 1. for the
priests of the temple. At a dis-
tance of 33 yds. from the first
thatched gate-way is a second,
which gives access to a third court,
surrounded by a palisade called the
Tatna-gaki, formed of planks about
8 ft. high, placed close together.
Just within this court is a small
wooden gate-way, immediately be^
yond which is a thatched gate-way,
forming the entrance into the cen-
tral enclosure. This enclosure is
surrounded by a wooden pahsado
250
Fiottte 37. — The Shinto Temples of Ise»
called Mieu-gaHy and is almost a
perfect square, being 134 ft. by IJJl
ft. At the back of it is the Shoden
or chapel, on the r. and 1. of the
entrance to which are the treasuries
(hoden).
The chapel is 34 ft. in length by
19 ft. in width. Its floor, raised
about 6 ft. from the ground, is
supported on wooden posts planted
in the earth. A balcony 3 ft.
wide, which is approached by a
flight of nine steps 15 ft. in width,
runs right round the building, and
carries a low balustrade, the tops
of whose posts are cut into the
shape called hoshu no tama^ which,
strangely enough, is a Buddhist
cfmament, the so-called * Precious
Jewel of Omnipotence.' The steps,
balustrade, and doors are profvisely
overl9.id with brass plates; and the
external ridge-pole, cross-trees,
and projecting rafters are also
adorned with the same metal. A
covered way leads from the inner
gate up to the steps of the chapel.
The two treasuries are raised on
short legs or stands, after the
fashion. of the store-houses of the
Ijoochooans. They are said to
contain precious silken stuffs, raw
silk presented by the province of
Mikawa, and trappings for the
sacred horses. Between the Ita-
gaki and the Ara-gdki stands the
Heihahu-den, intended to contain
the offerings called gohei. Another
building in the enclosure is the
Mike-den, where the water and food
offered up to the gods of both the
Oeku and Naiku are daily set
forth, in winter at 9 a.m. and 4
P.M., in summer at 8 a.m. and 3 p.m.
Up to A.D. 729, the food offerinjrs for the
Ifaiktl, hayiog first been prepared at the
GekQ, were conveyed to the former temple,
thei'e to be set out. In that year, as this
ceremony was beinp: performed, the offer-
ings were unwittingly carried past some
polluting object which happened to be in
the road. The consequence was that the
Mikado fell sick, and the diviners attri-
Imted his sickness to the anger of the Sun-
Goddess. Since that time the offerings
for both temples have been set out only at
the GektU
The offerings made to each of the-
principal deities consist of four
cups of water, sixteen saucers of
rice, four of salt, besides fish, birds,
fruits, seaweed, and vegetables^
The offerings to each lesser deity
are the same, except that only half
the quantity of fruit is provided.
The architecture of the temples
of Ise is believed to represent the
purest and most ancient native^
Japanese style.
The chief festivals are the * Pray-
ing for Harvest ' (Kinen-sai), 4th
February ; * Presentation of Cloth-
ing' {Onzo-sai), 17th April?
'Monthly festival' (Tsuki-naini no-
matsuri), 1 5th June ; * Divine Tast-
ing* (Kan-name) f 15th and 16th
September ; * Harvest festival *^
(8hinzd-sai), 23rd ' November. Be-
sides these a * Great Purification '
(0-harai), is performed once every
month, and also before each of the
above-named grand festivals..
On the side of a low hill to the S.
of the chief temple buildings, stand
two much'smaller shrines. That to
the 1. is known as Ara-matsuH, that
to the r. as Ame-no-miya. Higher up
the same hill is the Taka-no-miya.
After thus seeing as much as is
permitted to be seen of the Geku, we
re-enter our jinrikishas and speed
along an excellent level road to Fu-
tami, a distance of 2 ri 10 cho. Several
villages are passed, of which Kawa-
saki and Kurose are the largest,
and an unusually long bridge called
the 8hio-ai no hashi, spanning the
estuary of the Isuzu-gawa. There
are constant delightful views of a
mountain range to the r.
Fiitanii (Inn, Onsen, with sea-
bathing) is considered by the Japa-
nese to be one of the finest points
of view on their coast, and few
art motives are more popular than
the Myoto-seki, or ' Wife and Hus-
band Eocks,' — two rocks close to
the shore, tied together by a straw
rope.
In this case the straw rope (tihime) pro-
bably symbolises conjugal union. Tuer^
Futami, The Naiku Teivple,
251
is, bo-wever, a legend to the effect that
the goA Susa-no-o, in return for ho6i)itality
received, instructed a poor villager of this
place how to protect his house fi-om futui'e
visitations of the Pbigue-God by fastening
such a rope across the entrance. A tiny
shrine called Somiii Skdzai no Yaskiro com-
memorates the legend.
The view of islets and bays
stretching away eastwards is in-
deed very pretty, and the rocks at
Futami are of a peculiar character,
being chlorite schist, a metamor-
phic slate. It may nevertheless be
doubted whether Europeans would
single out Futami for special praise
from among the countless lovely
scenes in Japan.
[At a distance of 2 ri 10 cho
beyond Futami lies the beauti-
ful harbour of TobA {Inn,
Osaka-ya) in the province of
Shima, which may be reached
by jinrikisha. The private
dockyard there, called Tekkd-
sho, will interest some tra-
Tellers. A road leads hence to
the celebrated waterfall of Na-
chi in Kishii, and right round
the coast of that province to
Wakayama and on to Osaka.
As already mentioned, small
coasting steamers also make
the round touching at about
twenty ports. The roads and
accommodation are rough, but
the scenery delightful and the
winter climate mild.]
If the weather be fine, none
should miss the view from Asama-
yama, which is one of the grandest
in Japan. As explained on p. 247,
this mountain stands between
Putami and the Naiku Temple,, and
all except some 22 cho can be done
in jinrikisha. The highest point
where tea-houses are found and
whence the celebrated view is ob-
tained, lies 1,300 ft. above the sea.
Below in the foreground is Owari
Bay, while on the horizon stretches
a long series of mountains, —
Futago-yama on the Hakone pass,
Fuji, Yatsu-ga-take, Akiha-san,
the volcano of Asama, Koma-g^-
take, Tateyama in Etchu, On-
take, Norikura in Hida, Haku'
san, Aburazaka in Echizen. Ibuki-
yama in Omi, Tado-san, Mitsugo-
yama, Suzuka-yama, andNunobiki-
yama on the W. frontier of Ise.
The most conspicuous are Haku-san
and On take. About 10 cho along the
path over to the province of Shima
is the Oku-no-in, or upper temple,
dedicated to the Buddhist^ sainrt
Kokuzo Bosatsu (Sanskrit, Akdsha'*
garhha). It is a very pY*etty little
shrine.
Rejoining the jinrikishas, a drive
among rice-fields brings us to the
outskirts of Yamada, where behind
its new 8hin-en, or * Divine Park,'
and embosomed in an antique
grove, stands the Naiku Temple
dedicated to the Sun-Goddess Ama-
terasu. The arrangement of the
temple grounds and enclosure is
similar to that at the Geku; but
the Naiku, as the more sacred of
the two, is on a somewhat larger
scale. The outer enclosure is 195
ft. in front, 202 ft. at the back, and
369 ft. at the sides. The inner-
most enclosure (Mizu-^aki) measures
149 ft. in front, 150 ft. at the back,
and 144 ft. on each side. The bare
open space adjoining the temple is
the alternative site, which will be
used to build on in the year 1909,
when the present buildings are
pulled down.
4.— From Yamada to Kyoto bt
boad and kwansei railway.
This is the Kyoto-Ise route
sketched out on pp. 244-5, but tra-
versed in the opposite direction.
The road is excellent the whole
way from Yamada to Seki, where
the Kwansei Railway is joined, and
perfectly flat except just at the
end. Numerous towns and villages
are passed through, constant bands
of pilgrims are met, arrayed in
holiday attire, and an air of
bustle and prosperity pervades the
whole country-side. To the 1. are
252
Eoiite 37, — The Shinto Temples of Ise.
pleasant views of the Ise-Iga-Omi
range. The well-cultivated plain
to the r. mostly appears boundless,
as it is too level k) allow of many
glimpses being caught of Owari
Bay which lies beyond. The fol-
lowing are the most important
places on the way : —
Matsiiziika (Inn, Tai-ya). The
name of this town should be fami-
liar to air Japanese scholars, as the
birth-place of Motoorii
Motxx)ri Norinaga, the prince of Japa-
nese literati, was born in 1730 and died in
1801. A pupil of the scarcely less distin-
guished scholar Mabuchi, he continued
Mabuchi's work of investigating Japanese
antiquity, bringing back into literary use
the pure ancient Japanese language,
restoring the Shinto religion to the supi-e-
macy ot which Buddhism had robbed it,
in a word, emphasising and glorifying
everything native as agaiust that part of
Japanese civilisation which was new and
of foreign' origin. The restoration of the
Mikado to the absolute authority which
centuries before had been usurped by the
Shoguns, w^as natui-ally a prime object of
the endeavours of a man to whoia anti-
quity and perfection were convertible
terms, and in whose belief the Mikado
was really and truly a descendant of the
Goddess of the Sun. Motoori and his
school thus became to some extent the
authors of the revolution which, half a
century latei*, overturned the Shogunate
and brought the Mikado forth from seclu-
aion to govern as well as reign. Motoori's
works wei-e very numei'ous. The greatest
is his elaVx>iute commentary on the
Kojiki, called Kojiki Den^ which is prac-
tically au encyclopaedia of Japanese
ancient lore, written in a style as clear
as it is elegant. The printing of the 44
volumes of which it consists was not con-
cluded till 1822, long after the author's
death. Motoori was tirst buried at Myo-
rakiiji, some miles from Matsuzaka.
The town is dominated by a hill
called Yoio-no-Mori, on which
stand the remains of the castle
founded in 158-i by Kamau Hida-
no-Kami XJjisato. Below, at the
entrance to the grounds, is the
little Shinto temple of Yamamuro
Jhx^a, dedicated to Motoori who has
been apotheosised during the pre-
sent reign.
Tsn (Inn, *Waka-roku). At the
entrance to the town, on coming
from the direction of Yamada and
JUatsuzaka, stands r. a temple dedi-
cated to Yuki Kotsuke no Suke, »
celebrated retainer of Kusunoki
Masashige. It dates from ISS^,
and offers an elegant example o£
modern Shinto architecture. The
same grounds contain a gaudily
painted little shrine of HachimaiL.
In the middle of the town are two
noted Buddhist temples, known as
Ktvannonji and Ko no Amida. The
former is i*ather tawdry, the latter
exquisite though on a small scale.
The legend on which the sanctity of tbis
temple rests, is a good example of the
fusion that took place between Buddhism
and iShinto in early times. A Buddhist
priest named Kakujo made a pilgrimage
of one hundred days to the shrine of the
Sun-Go<lde8S at Ise to entreat her to
reveal to him her original shape,-!- tbe
idea in those days l)eing, that the Shinto
deities were fivatars, or temporary mani-
; testations (Gongt-u), of which Buddhist
I saints were the originals {Jlonchi ButtHr}.
On the hundi-edth night the Sun-Goddess
appeared to Kakujo in a dream, com-
manding him to go out next morning on.
the seashore of Futami, where she pro-
mised to show herself to him as she really
was. He did so, and there appeared.
floating on the surface of the wavea &
SM-coloured serpent over ten feet lon^.
ut £he priest was not yet satisfied.
" This," cried he, ** is but a pious frard
on the part of the divinity, whose real
shape that monster can never be,"— and.
so saying, he took off him his priestly-
scarf and flung it at the serpent, which va-
nished with it into the sea. Three nights
later the Goddess api)cared to Kaknjd in
a second dream, and said : " The serpent
indeed was but another temporaiy mani-
festation. My real shape is preserved in
the temple of Muryojuji at K5 in the dis-
trict of Suzuka in this same land of Ise.
Go thither and thou shalt see it." He
went accordingly, and found that Amida
was the Buddhist deity there worshipped.
The image was considered so holy that
the priests of the temple at fli-st refused
to show it ; but what was not the aston-
ishment of all present when, on Kakaj5*s
request l)eing at last granted, the scarf
which he had thrown at the sea-serpent
was found twined round the image's
neck !— All this happened at a very early
period. The removal of the temple to
Tsu took place about A.D. 1680, when the
origiual shrine at Ko had fallen into
decay, and the image had been found one
day thi'own down on the place where the
temple now holding it has been raised in
its honour.
The holy image is enclosed in a
shrine on the altar, and is only
exhibited on payment of a te%
Tsiu lashinden, Zeni-lcake-mnUu,
253
^'wlien a short service in its honour
is performed and the legend re-
<3ited by the attendant priest. R.
and 1. are images of the * Kwannon
of the Thirty-three Places/ with
"the Shi Tenno in front.
The * Thirty-three Places' are thiity-
t;liree shrines sacred to Kwannon in the
l>rovince8 surrounding Kyoto. Tliey are
«.ll carefully numliered, the first l^einjuf
Fudarakuji at Nachi in Kishti, and the
last TaniRumi-dera in Mino. The ])ilgrim-
M^e to these places was instituted hy the
!Eiui>eror Kwazan, in obedience to a vision.
This monarch, after losing his tenderly
loved consort, abdicated in the year 98H,
ftnd becoming a monk, devoted himself
thenceforward to devout practices. In
imitation of the original Thirty-three
Places, thirty-three other places have been
■established in Eastern Japan, and also in
the district of Chichibu.
Behind, and continuing all
round the walls of the building,
Are diminutive images of all the
Bnddhas and Bosatsu, called Sen-
-oku Buisu, lit., a thousand hun-
dreds of thousands of Buddhas.
Among other objects of interest,
note the very large wooden figure
representing Buddha dead. It is
laid on real quilts. Gilt and
painted carvings of Buddhas and
angels fill the ramnia of the chapel.
The green coffered ceiling is cov-
«red with gilt Sanskrit characters
in relief. A mirror in front of the
altar attests that the temple be-
longs to the Shingon sect. A
small octagonal stmcture to the 1.
•contains gilt images of the Thirty-
three Kwannon. If possible, this
temple should be visited in the
evening, when there are almost
always crowds* of pilgrims, who —
though Ise is their chief objective
point — also think it well to pay
their respects at all' the lesser
shrines on the way thither.
Shortly after leaving Tsu, those
who can appreciate Buddhist ec-
clesiastical architecture should in-
struct their jinrikisha-men to turn
a few yards out of the way to visit
the immense temple of Senshuji
more commonly called Takata no
Ooho, at Isshinden.
This, the chief monastery of the Takata
su1)-sect, was founded at . TaVata m
fcihimotsuke by the celebrated ahljot Shin-
ran Sh5nin in 1226, and removed herein
1485 by the priest >Shin-e.
The building is closely similar in
style and scale to the vast Hon-
gwanji temples described under
Tokyo and Kyoto, which is as
much as to say that it is majes-
tically spacious and chastely rich.
The architectural similarity is ac-
counted for by the fact that the
Takata and Hongwanji are sister
sects, both being subdivisions of
the great Shin sect.
At the hamlet of Toyokuno is a
sacred tree, called Zeni-kake-matmi,
because the faithful are in the
habit of tying coppers to it by-
wisps of paper.
This custom is founded on the followinir
leffenrl :— In the yenr 838 a nobleman named
Ono-nt)-TaVHraufa had been banished to
the 0><i Inlands for having refused to
po as Mmbjissador to China. So hin wife,
disc^onsolHte, resolved to make apilgrrimaffe
to Ise in order to intercede with the
Sun-Goddess on Ids bertalf. On reachinRT
this bamlet, she enquired the wny of some
srass-euttei"8, who, peroeivinor ) er to be a
gentle lady unused trt trav»^l and dangler,
told her ax a soriy jest that the shrine
she sought was still twenty days distant.
She was already wearied out, und had bnt
a few coppers left. So believing that the
Siin-Goddess would non'lesfend to listen to
tlie pirnyers of the faithful w^herever of-
fered up, she flung herself down before the
pine-tree as the goddess's emblem, and
then tied to one of its branches all the cop-
per coins that she still possessed. The
grass-r^uttei's, avaricious as well as eruel,
ntf*>fi pted t-o st-eal the money ; but forth-
with it chaneed into a two-headed serpent
whirh dartecl out u]K>n them. Thereupon
they were converted from their evil ways*
and the story ends by their escortinjr
the lady on the short journey thence
to Ise, and by eveiy one living happily
ever after.
Ono-no-Takamura is celebrated as the
aut or of a set of verses intended as a
memorift terhnica for students of the C3ji-
nese ideographs, which _ is still in common
use. The following is an example : —
Ilrtru tsnhafci
m»
Xntsft wa enoki ni
Sff
Ak> hisagi
tkfSt
Fuyu wa kilragi
«^
Onojlku wa kiri
mm
//
.1
254
Boute 37. — The Shinto Temples of Ise,
The rneaning is that if to the radical for
•tree' be added the chnraeter for * Kpring,'
the resulting- compound is * camellia ' ; that
the same radical and ' summer ' combine to
form the enoki ti'ee, and so on.
On climbing the hill that leads
into the valley where Seki lies,
the long serrated peak seen 1. is
Shakujo-ga-take, while Suzuka-
toge rises straight ahead. At
Seki (Inn, Uo-ya), we join the
Kwansei Eailway, built sdongside
a portion of the old Tokaido road
which is crossed and recrossed.
The road climbs the Suzuka-toge,
but the railway line cuts through
it by two tunnels. The gral^
is nevertheless steep enoug]^
make the assistance of an
engine necessary. The scene]
very pretty all the way to the
station, Tsiige. The valley
opens out on both sides. B<
reaching Mikiiiiio, the mouni
about Lake Biwa come in view'
the r. At
Kiisatsii Junction, where it
Kwansei line terminates, the ti^
veller changes carriages for Kyoti^
the journey of a little over 1 hr. %' .^ij^
which place is made by Tokai<||-
Railway.
\i
It
r
SECTION IV.
ROUTES CONNECTING TOKYO
AND KYOTO.
Routes jS — 40.
Bottte 38.— The Tdkaidd.
25t
ROUTE 38.
Thb Tokaido by Bail fbom Tokyo
TO Kyoto and Kobe.
IKTATEBFALLS OF SANG. MIO-NO-
MATSUBABA. FBOM OKITSU TO
8SIZUOSA via TEMPLES OF KUNO-
ZAN. FBOM KAKEGAWA TO AKIHA.
O . lA
Names
Stan
from
oky(
of
5 -
Statioiii4.
Remarks,
H
lOj
125
18
26
32i
43
49 Kdzu.
f.5
61
71
80
86
96
101
110
114
lao
128
132
137
140
140
TOKYO (Sliim-
bnshi)
ShinagnwR '\
, Omoii I '
Kawasaki - See Route 2.
Tsurumi I i
Kanagawa i )
YOKOHAMA. ,
Hocloga.vv . I
Totsuka. I !
I 1 Clianpe for,
, OFUNA Jet ! J Kamakura &
' I ( YokoBuka.
Fujisawa.
1 CAliorht for as- 1
Hiratsuka I * cent of Oya-'
I _ , (. ma (p. 61). I
. Oiso.
AUght for Mi-
yauoshita,
Hakone, and
Atami.
Matsuda,
Yamakita.
Oyama.
Gotemba...
Sano.
Numazu.
Suznkawa
Iwabuchi
Kambara.
Okitsu .....
Kiiri.
SHIZUOKA.
Yaizu.
Fujieda.
Shimada.
Kanaya.
Hori-XLo-uchi.
S Alight for as-
1 i cent of Fuji,
^Travellers
f i-om the west
alight for
Fuji. Atlwa-
bnchi alight
for Kami-ide
waterfalls (j>.
121) and Mi-
nobu (p. 128.)
( Excui*sion to
i Kuno-zau.
150
156
174
180
19f)
196
2(»1
210
22J
228
231
235
240
240
249
254
2f«
2(W
•i{7l
278
2F8
297
302
I
Kt^kegawa
FnUuroi.
) Alight
I Akiha.
for
161 ' NaUaizumi
168 HAMAMATSU.
Maizaka.
Washizu.
Toyohashi.
tioyu.
Kamagovi.
Okazaki.
Kariya.
TTravellers
down rapids
1 of Teitrytl
& l)ounfl K.
enter train
here, v
^Tenryil tra-
* vellers fori
the W. enter!
train here.
;l
223 Obu
j ^Change for
1* Kamesaki,
1 ) Handa, and
Otaka.
Atsuta.
NAGOYA.
Kiyosu.
Ichinomiyu.
Kisogawa.
OIFU.
Ogaki.
Tarui .
Seki-ga-hara.
Nagauka.
) Hail
L Tak
ketcno.
284 MAIBARA Jet.
Hikone.
Notogawa.
Hachiman.
Change for!
Nagaliama
& TsnrugH.
313 EUSATSU Jet.
.ni9 ' Baba (OTSU).
321 I Otaui.
3245 ' Yamashina.
327 a Inari.
329 KYOTO.
383 Mukomachi.
3375 I Yamazaki,
H425 I Takatsuki.
34fi*. Ibaraki.
351 I Suita.
359 OSAKA
{
Kwansei Rail-
way, see p.
245. ,
361
365
870
375
376
KanzaVi.
Nishinomiya,
yumiyoshi.
Saunomiya.
KOBE.
Alight for'
I J Nara and
. ( bakai. i
The word TokaUlo signifies '£ast«>m
sea road** The name was given to this*
road at an early date on account of itH-
running along the seM-shore in an easterly
direction from Kyoto, which, being the o\A
258
Boiite 38.— The Tokaidd.
historic capital, -wns naturally regarded
as the startinsy-point. From the 17tli
<!entury onwards, tlie Tokrtido was tra-
versed twice yearly by Daimj-Ss coming with
their gorgeous retinues to pay their respects
to the Shogun at Yedo ; and all the chief
towns, here as on the other great hiahwnys
of the Empire, were provided with honjin —
thut is, specially line tea-houses— for their
lordships to sleep at. The greater portion
of the l)eautiful avenue of pine-trees with
which the road was lined still exi^^ts, and
can bd seen occasionally from the windows
of the railway carriage. The road itself is
now comparatively deserted. " But what a
scene it used to present ! How crowded with
pedestrians ; withnorimons (the palanquins
of the upper crust), and attendants; with
ciinffoes (the modest bamboo conveyance
of the humble classes) ; with pack-hors-s,
conveying merchandise of all kinds to and
from the capital or to the busy towns and
-villages along the route ; with the trains of
dairayos or of lesser gentry entitled to
travel with aretinue ; and with the coraraon-
iilty, men, women and children, on foot,
all with their dresses turned up for facility
Of movement, and for the most part taking
the journey pretty easily ; frequently stop-
ping at the numberless tea-housea or rent-
ing sheds by the way, and refreshing t\ em-
«elves with the simple little cup of weak
green tea, and a cheeiy chat with whom-
i<oever might stop like themselves to rest.
It used te seem tliat distance was no
consideration with them. They could po
<m all day, and day after day, if only they
were allowed (which they generally were)
to take their own time and pace. Tlie
value of time never entered into their
thoughts
The numerous trains of armed men
passing in both directions were the
most striking feature of the scene. Never
could one go out of one's house in any
direction, but these two-sworded men were
met with ; but on the Toknido, and in the
btreets of Yedo, they appeared to be more
numerous than the common people; and
it must be undet stood that at this time of
which I am speakmg, the crowds on por-
tions of the road and in all the principal
thoroughfares of the capital, were as great
as in the most crowded thoroughfares of
T^>ndon. It took one forcibly back to the
feudal times in Europe, when no noble or
lauded proprietor thought of going abroad
unattended by his armed dependants.
Added to this, there was a certain air of
mntiquity that imparted its charm to the
scene. The old Dutch writers described
the road long ago, and it was even in tlieir
-day, precisely as it was in ours. A good,
well macadamised, causeway, (except that
the hard stratum was of pebbles, not of
broken stones^, passing thi-ough numerous
populous villages, only divided from each
* >ther by short intervals, where fine old tre^s
on both sides of the road were the sole divi-
sion between the road and the paddy fields.
The etiquette of the road was well »n&.
rigidly defined. "When the trains of two
princes met, it was incumbent on the lesser
of them — (measured by his income as re-
cognised by the Government, and published,
in the official list), to dismount from his
norimon, if he happened to be riding in one*
and draw with his followers to the side of
the road whilst the otlier passed. When-
ever it was possible, therefore, such meet-
ings were avoided." t
The railway was begun in.
1872 and finished in 1889. Tra-
vellers with time on hand are ad-
vised to break the journey at Kdzu,
in order to vi«it Miyanoshita and.
Hakone ; at OJcitsu, in order to visit
Kuno-zan on the way between that
station and Shizuoka ; at ShizuoJca
itself, and at Nagoya. Of these
places, three, viz. Miyanoshita,
Shizuoka, and Nagoya, have hotels
in foreign style. Those who are
hurried may console themselves
for missing these interesting places
by the knowledge that the scenery
through which they are to pass
has many charms, including superb
views of Fuji from both the land
and the sea side. The least in-
teresting portion of the line is
that between Shizuoka and Nagoya,
a six hours' run which may with-
out disadvantage be performed
after dark.
The first hour of the journey —
that between Tokj'^o and Yokohama
— having been already described
in Eoute 3, calls for no further
remark. The train runs into Yoko-
hama station to pick up passengers
for the West, and runs out again
for a few minutes over the same
ground, but soon diverges to the 1.
Fiijisnwa {Inns Inage-ya and
Wakamatsu-ya at station) is famed
for its Buddhist temple of Tugyo-
dera^ in the miraculous heaUng
powers of whose abbots extraordi-
nary faith is placed by the lower
orders of the surrounding coxuitry-
side. Unfortunately a fire de-
stroyed the greater portion of
the buildings in December, 1880.
t This description is quoted from Black's
" Young Japan," Vol. I. p. 163, et aeq.
Section of Railway tiear Fuji.
259
Should the intention of restoring
tHem to their original splendour
be cari'ied out, they will well
merit a visit. The site lies some
8 ch6 from the railway station.
After passing Fujisawa, the Ha-
kone range, behind which towers
the cone of Fuji, begins to come in
sight r. Soon afterwards the line
crosses the broad stony bed of the
River Banyii, which rises in Lake
Yamanaka on the N.E. flank of
Fuji.
01 SO is a favourite bathing resoi*t;
see p. 62. At
Kozii (Inn, Hayano), the line
turns inland up the valley of the
Sakawa-gawa, in order to avoid the
Hakone mountains which effectu-
ally bar the way to all but foot-pas-
sengers. The scenery now becomes i
mountainous, with to the 1. the chief ,
I)eaks of the Hakone range, —
Putago-yama (the *Twin Moun-
tain,' so-called from its double '
rounded summit), Myojin-ga-take, |
Kammuri-ga-take, and Kintoki-zan
(horn-shaped). An extra engine
is put on at Yiiiiinkitii to help
the train up to Gotemba, the high-
est point on the line — 1,500 ft.
above sea level. Between Ya-
makita and OyniiiA (not_to be
mistaken for the mountain Oyama,
with a long O), the scenery is
wildly picturesque, and there is a
rapid succession of tunnels and
bridges, testifying to the engineer-
ing difficulties that had to be over-
come. At
OotembA (Inns, Yoshijima-ya at
station, and Omiya in the vill. 12 cho
<listant), the passenger finds himself
in the broad and fertile plain sur-
rounding Fuji's base, a plain whose
soil indeed has been formed by
the volcanic outpourings of the
great mountain during countless
ages. The long-ridged wooded
mountain immediately to the 1. of
Fuji is Ashitaka. The range to
the spectator's 1. from the carriage
window is the Hakone range, the
lowest point of which visible from
here is the Otome-toge pass lead-
ing over to Miyanoshita.
At Sano,
[The waterfalls (Sano no taJci) 12
cho from this station by
jinrikisha make a charming
picnic resort, there being a
tea-house with arbours scat-
tered about. The water form-
ing the falls comes from Lake
Hakone via the tunnel men-
tioned on p. 107. Keigashima,
17 cho beyond the Sano water-
falls, is another picturesque
spot, remarkable for its curious
rocks and possessing a deserted
shrine suitable for a picnic]
where one still has Fuji and
Ashitaka to the r., the other
mountains, from r. to 1., are Amagi-
san in Izu, Yahazu-yama (a small
peak), Higane-san on the other side
of which lies Atami, the Hakone
range, and in front, isolated as if
let drop independently into the
plain, Kanoki-yama. The railway
turns west, and rejoins the old
Todaido at
Niimazil (Inn, Moto - doiya).
There is much marshy ground in
this, neighbourhood, whence pro-
bably the name of the place (numcL
=* marsh').
Siiziiknwa (Inn, Koshu-ya) and
Iwabliclii (Inn, Tani-ya).
[Travellers from the Kyoto direc-
tion intending to ascend Fuji
can alight at either of these
stations, it_ being 3 ri from
either to Omiya. One goes
from Suzukawa to (3miya by
tram in 1^ hr., passing through
the town of JYoshiwara ; from
Iwabuchi to Omiya by jinriki-
sha. Most persons prefer the
tram, as cheaper and more ex-
peditious. The Wataya inn
at Omjya is well-spoken of.
From Omiya it is a 2^ ri walk,
mostly uphill, to Murayama,
where the actual ascent of
Fuji commences; see p. 117.
Iwabuchi is also the starting-
260
PiOiite SS.'-The Tdkaido.
point for the beautiful water-
' falls of Kami-ide on the W.
side ot Fuji (see p_. 121), 5^ riy
passing through Omiya. Suzu-
kawa is the starting-point for
the temples of MinoDu, J3 W,
and for Kofu, 24 ri, see p. 128.]
It is about Suzukawa that the
nearest and most perfect view of
Fuji is obtained. Nowhere else
does the * p£»erless mountain ' so
absolutely dominate its surround-
ings. The beauty of the stretch of
shore from here to the mouth of
the Fujikawa, called Tago-no-ura,
has been sung by a hundred Japa-
laese poets. The Fujikawa is
noted for its rapids (see p. 135).
From here toOkitsu is very beauti-
ful, the space between. the sea and
a range of liills to the r. becoming
so narrow as barely to leave room
for the line to skirt the shore.
Okitsii {Inns, Minakuchi ya, Kai-
sui-ro; the former is semi-foreign,
tl^e latter has arrangements for
sea-bathing) has a lovely view of
the Bay of Suruga, the large moun-
tainous peninsula of Izu, an(^ to
the r. the point of land called
Mio-no-Matmbai'u, celebrated both
in poetry and in art. It is covered
with pine-trees, is low and sandy,
and hence more pleasant to look
at than to walk on. Still fur-
ther to the r. lie the Kuno-zan
liills, with the w^hite little sea-port
town of Shimizu nestling at their
base.
At Mio-no-MatMi^Hi" is lidil the scene of
Hn-goiovin^ or The iJobe (»f Fe»itheiB,
owe of the prettiest mul iiuiKt fnnoiful
<)t the Jjipunese L>iic DrMiims (A<i no
tttai). A lL-hei'iiii«ii hiudiii^ on this
«truud linds a i-obe of fextlierH hnii^-
ing to a pine-tree. hhiI is nbout to cany
It off as tieMMue Imve, i»heii a beMiiti-
ful fairy suddenly ai^pearw Hiid implores
him to g-'ve it huv.k to her, lor th^itit is hers,
MTkd with«mt it she cannot fly home to the
Moon,; where s>ie is one of the attendants
on the thirty monarchs who rule Unit
sphere. At first the flshern.Mn retUMes to
grant her request. Hh only does so when,
After many tears and afron'ies of despair,
ahe promises to dance for him o»e of the
dances known only to the immortals.
Draped in her featherj' robe, she dances
beneath the pine-trees on the beach, while-
celestial musiu and an uneailhly frHgrance-
1111 the air. At last her wingx are &iUght
by the breeze, and she soars heavenward,,
past Mount Ashitaka, pii^t Fuji, tilL
she is l(»st to view. '1 here is still a sniait
shrine on Mio-uo-Matsubaru dedicated tO'
this fairy.
The temple of Seih nji or Kiyomi'-
dera at Okitsu, belonging to the
Zen sect of Buddhists, merits a
visit, partly for the sake of the
view, partly for the temple itself
and the temple grounds, which even
the railway, though it cuts through
them, has not entirely Spoilt. The
very plain altar in the hondo — jv
large hall paved with tiles — con-
tains the funeral tablets of all the
Shoguns of the Tokugawa dynasty.
In a side temple are forty brilliantly
coloured figures, three-fourths life-
size, of Rakan — old, but restored in
1881. These were formerly kept-
in a tea-house in the town,
w^hich, becoming a favourite re-
sort, In-ought in a considerable
income to the p|riest&. This, how-
ever, moved tnc towns-people to
jealousy and dissatisfaction, for
which reason the images were
moved to their pi'esent site whein*
money can no longer be made out
of them. In the gi-ounds are 30O
(formerly 500) stone imayes of
Rakan. The creeping phun- trees
(gwaryii-bai) in front of the temple
are said to have been i>lante<^l by
leyasu's own hand. Besides the
temple proper, a suite of robms is
shown, affording an example of the
best style of Japanese domestic
architecture. Built in I860 for
the use of the Shogun lemochi,
they have of late been twice oc-
cupied by His Imperial Highness,
the Crown Prince.
[Those who have an extra day
to spare are strongly recom-
mended to leave the train at
Okitsu, sleep there, and go on
by jinrikisha to Kiilid-zaii, re-
joining the train at Shizuoka
late the next afternoon. This
excursion, which occupies from
Kuno'Zan.
261
7 to 8 hrs., is a real multum
in parvo, — splendid views, su-
perb temples, nearer ac-
quaintance with Japanese town
and country life off the beaten
track. — ^The plan is to take
a jinrikisha for the day with two
men, and begin by visiting Sei-
kenji, described above ; tlience
through Bjm(7nn,Kyo-ya),one
of those smaller Tokaido towns
which the railway has para-
lysed, and Shimizu, a neat
bustling ^sea-port town ; and
then strike inland to Tess/iwji,
a ruined temple on a little hill
called Fud<u*aku-san, 4 cho in
height. Yamaoka Tetsutaro,
writing-master to the present
Hikado, collected funds for the
restoration of this place ; but
the money was squandered
after his death, and the temnle
is nothing, but the view sim-
ply magnificent, reminding one
of a Claude Lorraine. At
the beholder's feet stretches a
green carpet of rice-fields, with
the town of Shimizu and the
curious square enclosures in
the adjacent sea, used as fish
preserves to supply the tables
of the inhabitants in stormy
weather. The two promon-
tories to the 1. are the Satta-
toge and the point near Kam-
bara, beyond which come Fuji,
Ashitaka, and the Hakone
range. The large peninsula
of Izu extends the whole way
round from 1. to r., like a
g^igantic scythe forming the
Gulf of Suruga, while much
closer and smaller, making a
bay within a bay, stretches the
pine-clad promontory of Mio-
no-Matsubara, which is from
here seen to divide at the tip
into three points like claws.
Close to Tesshuji is another
temple called Byugeji, noted
in the vicinity for its sotetau
( Cycas revoluta) and prickly
pears — ^the latter a great rarity
in Japan ; but the view, though
good, is not comparable to that
from Tesshiiji.
The way now leads back to
the sea and along the sandy
shore to the hamlet of Nekoya
{Inn, Fukushima-ya) at the foot
of Kuno-zan, one of a range of
hills only some 500 ft. high, but
fortress-like in steepness. Her©
was the first burial-place of the
great Shogun leyasu, and the
shrines here erected in his
honour were the originals of
-^V^hich those at Nikko are but
a more elaborate development.
Travellers who are iinable to
go to Nikko, can therefore ga-
ther some idea of what the
Nikko temples are like by visit-
in cr Kuno-zan. According to
some, Ieyasu*s body still lies
here, only a single hair or some
other minute portion having
been transported to Nikko. The
ascent to the temples is by a
steep zigzag path cut in the
living rock. A guide must be
applied for at the shamusho, or
* temple office' near the top, on
thel. The view over the sea from
this temple office is glorious.
The headlands seen hence are
Tome-no-saki, Kanaya, and O-
mae-zaki. The temples, though
* purified* to some extent by
the pro- Shinto party 20 years
ago, retain their Buddhist
ornamentation. The wooden
effigy of a sacred horse 1. is
by Hidari Jingoro. Up a flight
of steps hence, we come r. to
the drum-tower, and 1. to the
side of the five-storied pagoda
removed by the * purifiers * as
savouring too much of Bud-
dhism. Above these again are
r., the Kagura stage, the trea-
sure-house or ' godown/ and a
building formerly dedicated to
the Buddhist god Yakushi, and
now to the Shinto god Oyama-
gui-no-Mikoto ; while 1. is the
building where the sacred offer*
262
EoiUe 38, — The Tokaido,
ings are prepared. The oratory
proper is red outside, black
and gold within. Bound it,
inside, are hung pictures of the
Thirty-six Poetical Geniuses,
and there is an elaborate border-
ing of phoenixes and chrysan-
themums. A final flight of
steps behind the oratory leads
up to the stone tomb, which
is an octagonal monolith. The
annual festival at Kuno-zan is
lield on the 1 7th April. Services
are also celebrated on the I7th
of the other months. The tem-
ple treasures are exposed to
view in October, when the an-
nual airing {mushi-hoshi) takes
place. On leaving Kuno-zan,
the road first follows the sea-
shore and then turns inland,
reaching Shizuoka in about
1 hr.]
Betweien Okitsu and
Ejlri {Inn, Kyo-ya), there is a
view of Mio-no-Matsubara. After
leaving Ejiri, the line turns inland
to avoid the Kuno-zan hills.
Shizuoka (HoteU, *Daito-kwan,
foreign style ; Kiyo-kwan), formerly
called Sumpu, is the capital of the
prefecture of the same name and
of the province of Suruga. It
is a clean, airy, flourishing city,
noted for its manufactures of cheap
lacquer ware, delicate basket-work
in curious and beautiful shai>es, and
fine bamboo plaiting used to cover
egg-shell porcelain cups which are
brought from the province of Mino.
The tea produced at Ashikubo, a
vill. 2 ri distant, ranks second only
to that of Uji.
HistoricHlly, Shizuoka is celebrated
chiefly as the plaoe where leyasu chose to
«pend the evening of hiR life in learned
leisure, leaving his son, Hidetada, to carry
on the government at Yedo. Here for the
first time many of the treasures of Japa-
nese literature, which had hitherto existed
onl^ in manuscript, were put into print,
ghizuoka is now the plaoe of retiit^ment of
the ex-8h5gun Keiki, who lives there in
quiet seclusion as a private gentleman.
An afternoon is enough for
the sights of Shizuoka, which con-
sist of the ruins of the former
castle, and of two fine temples —
Binzaiji and Sengen. All that
remains of the Castle are tlie
decaying walls and the moats.
Within its enclosure stands the
Prefecture, a hideous red brick:
building. The Coui-t-house and.
Normal School are outside the
moat, on the S. side.
The Buddhist temple of Rinzaiji
lies 8 cho away from the city to the
W., at the foot of a range of
wooded hills. It belongs to the
Zen sect, and is noted for its
connection with leyasu and for
the number of objects of art which
it contains. The little room of
only 4fj mats (yo-jo-han), where le-
yasu learnt how to write, is shown, as
are several scrolls, screens, pieces of
lacquer and porcelain, etc., pre-
sented by him to the temple in his
old age. There is also a thread-
bare but still beautiful piece of
embroidery presented by the Mikado
Go-Nara (A.D. 1527-1557), and a
number of kakemono by Kano Masa-
nobu. Chin Nampin, and other old
masters. In the Hondo is a painted
statue of Imagawa Yoshimoto,
younger brother to Ujiteru, founder
of the temple. Another painted
statue represents the 2nd abbot.
The honzon is Amida, a black image
with a gold background. In. a
side chapel is preserved the wooden
image of Marishi-ten, which le-
yasu-:-who for all his political and
military genius, was not devoid of
the superstitions of his time — ^used
constantly to carry about with him
as a charm. The visitor will also
be shown a small pagoda-shaped
gilt revolving book-case containin|[^
a complete set of the edition of
the Buddhist scriptures, printed
for the first time with movable
types in 1888. The Ist and 2nd
October are the chief festival days
at Binzaiji. /
The Temple of Sengen, which
stands at the N. limit of the town,
was built under the snperintendence
Shizxvoha,
263
of Okubo Hikozaemon, a personage
famous in Japanese history as the
minister and confidant of the Sho-
gun leniitsu. Though chiefly dedi-
cated to the worship of Ko-no-hana-
jsaku-ya-hime, alias Sengen, the
heantif ul Shinto goddess of Mount
Fuji, it is constructed and decorated
in the most ornate Buddhist style.
Specially noteworthy are the wood-
^^.rvings. The grounds are now
used as a public j^ark. Entering
by two handsomely carved wooden
4^ates, the visitor finds himself in a
large quadrangle, in the centre of
which is a stage formerly used for
the performance of kagura dances
by young girls. The interior of the
oratory proper ( go haiden no o-
Uronm) is a hall 63 ft. by 33 ft.
with large solid pillars of keyaki
lacquered red, two* of which form
at the same time the corner pillai's
of the upper storey. The two
"Central compartments of the ceiling
are painted with dragons, one
billed the Shihd no Ryo, or * Dragon of
the Four Quarters,' because what-
ever quarter ,of the compass he
be viewed from he seems to glare
down directly at the spectator ; the
other, Happo no Ryo, or * Dragon of
the Eight Quarters/ because his
glance is directed to every point of
the circle. The former of these 'is
by Yusen Hogan, the latter by
Kano Motonobu. Eight other com-
paitments contain pictures of
angels playing on musical instru-
ments, also by painters of the
Kano school. Two broad flights
of steps behind the oratory lead
up to a building containing two
•chapels, one dedicated to Sengen,
the other to Onamuji. The
two chapels are connected by
a room in which a nightly watch
was formerly kept by retainers of
the Tokugawa family. Specially
noticeable are the carvings on the
gates leading to these twin cha-
pels. One set represents a lioness
with her cub, and on a second
panel her royal mate, both sur-
rounded by peonies, the king of
flowers, as the lion is the king of
beasts. Another set represents
hawks with pine-trees. Eound the
chapel itself are carvings of the
pine-tree, bamboo, and plum-blos-
som by Hidari Jingoro. The crest
of a fan of feathers is that of the
goblin who was god of Mount
Oyama and father of the goddess
of Fuji.
Near the main quadrangle is a
smaller building called the Sosha,
formerly dedicated to Marishi-
ten and now to the Shinto god
Yachi-hoko-no-kami. It is the
newest of all the buildings, and
the decorations are therefore
in a better state of preserva-
tion. In the curved roof of the
porch a phoenix carved out of a
single block of wood is very fine ;
and all round, above the architrave,
runs a series of delicate little groups
representing the Twenty-four Para^
,gons of Filial Piety.
The stone lanterns in the grounds
were presented by various Daimyos
and Hatamotos.—fBeyond the Mari-
shi-ten temple, a broad flight of
105 stone steps leads up to the
Oku-no-in, or innermost shrine, the
chief thing to be seen whence-is s
good view of the town.
The best excursion from Shi-
zuoka is that by jihrikisha to
Kuno-zan (3 ri) ; see pp. 260-2.
On leaving Shizuoka, we enter
on the least interesting portion of
the Tokaido route, there being little
worth describing the whole way on
to Nagoya, a distance of 115 mUes.
The line for the most part ceases
to skirt the sea, and runs over a
flat country with low hills on one
or both sides, or else among rice
fields which seem intenninable, es-
pecially after entering the province
of Owari. Spurs of the central
range forming the backbone of the
country are indeed often seen far
away to the r. At other times the
way lies through cuttings, or be-
264
Bouts 38, — The Tokaidu.
tween clumps of bamboos and other
small trees that shut out all distant
view. The chief points of this 115
m. run are as follows : — Just outside
SMzuoka we cross the Abekawa
close to its mouth, and obtain ai)ret-
ty glimpse of the sea with the small
promontory of Kuno-zan and the
large promontory ot I»u, before pass-
ing through two long tunnels. The
Oigawa is crossed before reaching
Kanayn. Like all the rivers on
this coast, it has a bed out of pro-
portion to the small volume of
water that generally flows down it,
the bed being nearly a mile broad,
while the actual stream is not
more than some 50 yds. except in
:flood-time.
_In pre-railway days, the passage of the
Oigawa was one of the most exciting
portions of the journey along- the Tokaido.
No ferrj'-hoats could be used on account of
the swiftness of the current, and travellers
"were carried across on small hand-phit-
^orms called rendni. The naked coolies
who bore these aloft always chose the
deepest parts of the stream, in order to
impress their fares with a sense of the peril
of the undertaking, and thus obtain the
largest possible pourholre.
Kakegawa is not remarkable
except for being the station where
those must alight who desire to
■visit the Temple of Akiha, some 12
ri inland, of which the first 6 ri as
far as the vill. of Mikura are prac-
ticable for jinrikishas. The visi-
tor may conveniently sleep at
Sakashita, some 4^ ri further on.
Sit the base of the mountain on
which the temple stands. The
ascent, locally computed at 50 chb,
is probably less. The last part of
it commands an extensive and
beautiful view, including the wide
plain of T<3t6mi with the sea be-
yond, towards which the broad
white bed of the river Tenryu is
seen winding its way.
The temple of AViha enjoys a great
reputation for sanctity, and is visited
annually by crowds of pilgrims. Unfortu-
nately for the tourist of artistic and anti-
quarian tastes, all the beautiful Buddhist
buildings in which Kwannon and other
deities had for centuries been invoked, were
destroyed by fire on the occasion of the
great yearly festival in 1875, and the-
present temple was afterwards erected i»
the bare, uninteresting style of * Pui-e-
Shinto.' It has been dedicated to Kagu—
tsuchi-no-Mikoto, who is regarded by soiiie-
as the God of Fire, but is more correctly
explained as the Oocl of Summer Heat.
Before reaching Hamamatsu the-
train crosses the Tenryii-gawa,
whose celebrated rapids form the
subject of Route *35. The Tenryii
is the first of the three great rivers
from which the province of Mi-
kawa, which the line here traverses,
takes its name, the other two
being theOgawa (also called Oya-
gawa or Ohira-gawa) on this side
of the station of Okazaki, and the^
Yahagi-gawa just beynd the same
station.
._ Haniamatsil ( Inns, * Hana-ya,,
Ogome-ya) is the only place be-
tween Shizuok^ and Nagoj'a where
the journey can comfortably
be broken. The town, which is
clean and bvistling, derives a
peculiar appearance from the use
of long projecting eaves which
cause the houses to look as if about
to tumble forward into the street.
A few moments may be devoted to
inspecting the temples of Gosha
Myojin- and 8uwa Myojin, which
even in their present abandonment
and decay sliow plainly to the dis-
cerning eye of the artist that they
were once among the most elaboi*ata
specimens of decorative art in Japan.
A whole day could well be spent in
sailing about the Lagoon (Hamana
no Mizu-umi) just beyond Hama-
matsu, of whose beauties the rail-^
way affords only a passing glimpse,
and in watching the fishermen's
curious device whereby the tinkling
of a bell indicates the presence of
fish in their nets. One might lunch
at the vill. of Shinjo on the fui-ther
shore. The railway crosses the
mouth of the lagoon on a long
series of dykes and bridges, whence
the roar of the breakers of the
Pacific can be distinctly heard.
Though called a lake in Japanese, this
lagoon has now a narrow entrance aboa4
Nagoya,
265
<00 yds. across, fovmed in the year 149fl,
"when an earthquake broke down *lie sand-
spit that had previously separated the
fresh water from the sea. The province of
Totoiui derives its name from this lake,
■which was Ciilled Tdtomi. a corruption of
7'0-tsu-awa'umi, * the distant f onming sea,'
in contradistinction to Lake Biwa, named
<'hika-tifu-awa-uvn^ *the near foaming sea,'
which gave its name to the province of
Omi.
Between Wasliizn and Toyolia-
slli a fine bronze image of Kvvan-
non, 10 ft. high and dating from the
year 1765, is seen perched r. on a
pinnacle of rock. Between' (joyii,
where the line again touches the
shore, and Kaiiingori there is a
pretty view of the sea, of the islets
in the Bay of Toyohashi, and of
the mountains of the provinces of
Shima, Ise, arid Iga beyond. An
•endless succession of rice-fields
leads to
Nagoya {Inns, Shinachu, also
called H6tel du Progr^s, foreign :
*Shiikin-ro).
This flourishing commercial city, the
largest on the Tokaido, capital of the
Province of Owari and of the prefecture
of Aichi, was formerly the seat of the
Princes of Owari, whose family was closely
allied to tliat of the Tokuguwa Bhoguns,
the founder of the house of Owari havmg
been a son of leyusu. Their fief was rated
at 550,000 hokn of rice, and the Owari's
were one of the ' Tliree Aueust Families *
[Go San-ke)^ entitled to furnish a suc-
cessor to the Shogun's tlirone in default
of an heir. Their castle, which is
still one of the wonders of Japan, was
■erected in 161f»by twenty great feudal lords,
to serve as the residence of leyasn's son.
la the early years of the present r/fgime it
■ffaa handed over to the Alilitary Depart-
ment; and the beautiful decorations of the
Prince's dwelling apartments suffered, as
<lid so much else in Japan, from the almost
incredible vandalii<iii and vulgar stupidity of
that period, — common soldiers, or ofli<'er8
as ignorant as the.v, being allowed to deface
the priceless wall-paintings of a Tan-yti, a
Motonobu, and a Mat'ihei. This desecra-
tion is now happily put an end to, though
much irreparable damage has been done.
The Castle is indeed still the head-quar-
ters of the Nagoya Garrison; but the bar-
racks now only occupy the outer enceinte,
the actual cit^idel and the apartments
being kept as national monuments and
Rhow -places. The two golden dplpliins
{kin «»» 8fiac?ii-koko), which can be seen
(flittering all over the city from the top of
the flve-storeyed donjon [tenshu)^ were
made in 1610 at the cost of the celebrated
general, Kato Kiyomasa, who also built
the keep. One of thera was sent to the
Vienna Exhibition of lb73, and on its way
back was wrecked in the Messageries
Maritimes Steamer *Nil.' Having been
recovered with great difficulty, it was
finally restored to its original position,
much to the satisfaction of the citizens.
Tlie golden dolphins mea«ure 87 ft- in
height, and are valued at $180,000.
Nagoya is noted for its manufac-
ture of porcelain, cloisonne, and
fans. The principal dealers are :
Porcelain. — Matsumura, Hirako-
ya, Takito.
Cloiso7in4. — Morimoto, Honda,
Takcuchi.
Fans, — Daikoku-ya.
Silk-mcrcers. — Ito, Daimaru.
There are many lesser but good
shops for all the above articles ;
also several bazaars (ktva7ik6ba) for
articles of general utility. Five or
six large cotton-mills have been
started of late years, and the em-
broidering of handkerchiefs has
taken a considerable place among
the local industries.
Theatre. — Suehiro-za.
The Museum contains a coUectioa
of the various manufactures of the
prefecture.
It is worth stopping a day at
Nagoya for the sake of the Castle,
which cannot be * done ' merely
between trains, as the traveller's
passport and visiting card must be
sent through the hotel to the Pre-
fectural Office, and several hours
may elapse before the necessary
permit is received. Meantime one
may visit Nagoya' s second greatest
sight — the Higashi Hongwanji
Temple — the Museum,and the minor
temples described below. The
evening may be agreeably whiled
away by going the round of the
bazaars, and by visiting the enclosure
of Shimpukuji (commonly known
as Osu Kwannon), where devout re-
ligious exercises and penny peep-
shows may be seen in amusing
proximity.
The Castle (O Shiro). — The space
between the inner and outer inoats,
now containing extensive barracks
and parade-grounds, was formerly
266
Eotite 38, — The Tokaido,
occupied by quarters for the
Prince's samurai or retainers,* of-
fices civil and military, etc. Pass-
ing into the inner enclosure over
a moat now dry and used to
keep tame deer in, the traveller
is first shown through the Apart-
ments,— a beautiful wreck, for mats
and furniture are gone and the
walls are considerably defaced, but
very fine nevertheless. The slidiug
screens (fusntna) between the
rooms, the alcoves (tokononia), and
the wooden doors between the dif-
ferent sets of Apartments are all
decorated with paintings of flowers,
birds, etc., chiefly by artists of the
Kano school, such as Eishin, Moto-
nobu, and Tan-yu. One room has
cherrj'-blossoms and pheasants by
Tosa-no-Mitsuoki. Another — the
most attractive of all — has multi-
tudinous scenes of popular life
by Ukiyo Matahei. One speciallj'
gorgeous apartment, decorated by
Tan-yu with ideal Chinese scenery,
"was reserved for the use of the Sho-
gun when he came to visit the
Prince his kinsman. Observe the
difierence of height between the
inner and outer portion of this
zoom, — the former (jodan) being for
the Shogun himself, the latter
(gedan) for those inferior persons
who were graciously admitted to an
audience. The raimna (ventilating
panels) of this room have exquisitely
faithful carvings of a crane and tor-
toise and of a -cock perched on a
drum, by Hidari Jingoro, who also
carved the flowers and birds in
certain other rooms. Leaving these
apartments, one comes to a much
humbler suite brought from Nobu-
naga's castle at Kiyosu, and is then
led into the donjon or keep, a
gloomy five -storied building, all of
stone without, but furnished with
wooden staircases within. The well
at the bottom, called Ogoii-siiif or
*the Golden Water,' was dug by
Kato Kiyomasa. The fifth storey
commands an extensive view — the
town of course, the sea, the im-
juense plain of Owari and Mino laid
out in rice-fields, and, limiting the-
horizon, the mountains of Ise, Iga^
Omi, Echizen, Hida, ShinshQ, and
Tutomi.
No fee is accepted by the custo-
dian of the Castle.
Higashi Hongwaiiji.
Tftis wonderful Buddhist temple, whose-
exterior and interiur are both equally
^rand, dates in it8 actual shape froia the-
beginning of the present century. Iii
mediaeval times a castle occupied its sit^^
whence the castle-like walls that still
surronnd the enclosure. Oh the occasiotk
of the combined military and naval manoErn—
vres at Xagoya in 1890, the apartments
were occupied by H. M. the Mikado.
The two storied gatehouse, a-
magnificent structure in wood, has-
three portals, decorated with floral
arabesques in relief on the lintel
and posts, and the gates have
scrolls and open-work diapers, with
solid bronze plates binding the
framework together, the whole in
excellent taste and style. On the
further side of a spacious court
rises the loft}' main building, which
looks, two-storied, an effect pro-
duced by the exterior colonnade
having a roof lower than that of
tlie main structure. The interior
measures 120 ft. in length by 108-
ft. in depth, and is divided longi-
tudinally into three parts, that in
front being for the use of ordinary
worshippers, the centre for the con-
gregation on special occasions, and
the innermost being the naijin, or
chancel. This latter is divided into-
three compartments, the central one
being occupied by the sJutmi-daii^
a platform on which stands a hand-
some gilt shrine containing an
image of Amida about 4 ft. high.
Both the shmni-dan and the table
in front are enriched with small
painted carvings, producing a glori-
ous effect. L. of the chief slirine
is a smaller one, containing a xx)r-
trait of the founder of the sect, taken
from the effigy in the metropolitan
temple at Kyoto. In the ramvia
along the front of the tiaijiyi are gilt
open-work carvings of angels, with
gilt carv'ings of the peacock and
Nagoya.
267
phcenix in the kaeru^mata above.
The heavy beams of the ceiling are
supported by excellent carvings of
lotus-flowers and leaves. In some
of the kaeni-mata over these beams
are spirited carvings of conven-
tional lions. ' The ceiling itself
is unpainted, and divided into
coffers about 3 ft. square. The
compartments r. and 1. of the
altar have gilt coppered ceilings.
In the kacrurinata of the external
<x>lounade are well-conceived groups
of supernatural beings — Gama Sen-
nin with his frog, Kinko riding on
the carp, Koan on the tailed tortoise,
O-Shiko riding on his crane, Ka-
Shinjin administering medicine to
the dragon, the umbrella miraculous-
ly flying back to Shoiohi through
the air, and two carrying baskets of
fish. The series is continued round
the sides by the crane, the lion, and
the flying dragon. As usual in
Hongwanji temples, there is another
building called the jiki-do, connected
with the main building by a gal-
lery resembling a bridge. Though
much less elaborate than the main
altar, the altar of the jiki-do is yet
a fine blaze of gold. K. and 1. of
the central image of Amida, are
some charming gold sliding screens
representing mountain scenery. The
apartments of the temple contain
several kakemonos and other works
of art, which are, however, generally
stowed away in a godown. In
front of the main gate is an avenue
of drooping cherry-trees {shidare-
zakura), which are very pretty in
April.
The remaining temples of Nagoya
are much inferior. The following
may be mentioned : —
Eikokuji (close to the Higashi
Hongwanji), in the courtyard of
which is a stone with the imprint of
Buddha's feet. They seem to have
been in proportion to his stature,
which legend Axes at 16 ft. On the
soles are representations of the wheel
of the law, fishes, etc.
Nishi Hongwanjiy not to be com-
pared with the Higashi Hongwanji
for size and beauty. In the kaeni-
matu above the altar are groups
of the Four-and-Twenty Paragons
of Filial Piety.
Nanatmi'dcra^ the interior walls
of which are gilt and decorated with
good paintings of angels. The large-
bronze image on the verandah re-
presents either Dainichi or Amida
— which of the two is not quite
certain.
Osti, Kiuannmi (properly Shim-
pukuji), already alluded to as a
popular resort. In front of the
altar screen are hung, for the use
of worshippers, copies of a Buddhist
scripture — the 26th chapter of the
Myoho BeiigQ Kyd — which recites
the praises of the Goddess Kwannon.
This temple possesses the famous
manuscript of the Kojiki known to
students of Japanese antiquity as
the Shimpiiknji'bon,
Go Uyaku Rakan (properly Dai-
t-yuji). It is ■ worth applying to
the custodian for admittance to
the gallery behind, where are kept
five hundred images of Buddha's
chief disciples, mostly about 2 ft.
high, all brightly painted, and all
diflerent. Some are smiling, some
are solemn, some are fierce, some
stupid-looking, some have a super-
cilious air, some an air of smug
self-satisfaction, some few are lying
down, others are praying, others
again have their arms extended in
the attitude of benediction, one has
three eyes, one holds a tiger-cub in
his arms, others ride on horses,
elephants, phoenixes, and so ou
almost ad infinitum. No wonder
the Japanese say that among the
Five Hundred Rakan, everj^ specta-
tor can find the likeness of his own
father by dint of a little searching.
Nagoya, like most other large
towns, possesses a number of new,
uninteresting buildings in the style
or no style known in the Japan of
to-day as * foreign.' Such are the
Prefectural Office, the Post and
Telegraph Office, the Hospital, the
Normal School, the Court Houses,
etc.
268
Eoute 38. — The Tokaido.
The only excursion to be recom-
mended in the neighbourhood of
Nagoya is to the potteries of Seto
between 5 and 6 ri distant. See
Route 36.
From Nagoya on to Kusatsu the
railway line desert^s the old Tokaido,
and, though called the Tokaido
Railway, really follows the Naka-
Kendo. Quitting Nagoya, the train
wends on through more and ever
more rice-fields, with blue moun-
tains far ahead, somewhat to the 1.
They are the mountains dividing the
provinces ^rOwari and ^lino from
those of Omi and Ise. Fourteen
miles out of Nagoya, the line crosses
the Kisogawa, the river whose
upper course forms so beautiful a
portion of the Nakasendo, and
which is picturesque even here near
its mouth.
Glfn (IniiSf * Tamai-ya, Tsuno-
kuni-ya) is an important place, and
capital of the prefecture of the same
name, which includes the two provin-
ces of Mino and Hida. On a conical
hill named Inaba-yama, E. of the
town, stand the remains of a castle
built by the great warrior Ota
Nobunaga. Raw silk and the silk
of the wild silkwonn are produced
in large quantities in the neigh-
bourhood, most of "it being woven
into crape. In this the glittering
threads of the wild silk, which takes
the dye in a less degree than that
of the ordinary silkworm, are intro-
duced to form the pattern. The
mon-chirimen woven in this manner
is a very handsome fabric.
In the summer-tmie it may be
worth staying over a night at (jrifu,
in order to see an extremely curious
method of fishing with the help of
cormorants on the River Nagara.
The traveller is referred for a des-
cription of this to the article entitled
Cormorant Fishing in ' Things
Japanese.' On nearing
Ognki (InnSj Kyomaru-ya near
the station ; Tama-ya), the castle
of the former Daimyo, with one
turret in fairly good preservation, is
seen 1. of the line. An expeditioxi.
may be made from Ogaki to the
waterfall of Tord-ga-taki, 70 ft.
high, distant 3 ri among the hills.
Close to it fossil ferns are found.
The cascade can also be approached
from either of the next two stations,
Tarni and Seki-ga-liara. Here
the long, weary journey across the
plain terminates, and the Tokaido
Railway again enters diversified
scenery, as it plunges among the hills
that enclose beautiful Lake Biwa.
Seki-^-hara takes its nfline, whicb means
literally *Moor of the Barrier,* from the
barrier of Fuwa {Futca no seki) establisbecl
at thi8 spot in A.D. 673 by the Ii^penr
Tenimu, it bavin}? been a JHpHne«« custom
from the earliest period down to the begin-
niD? of the present reign to bani{)er free
eoDirnunieation throughout the country by
means of bHrriers near the Ciipital, wliidi
none misbt pass without a special permit.
Seki-ga-bara is celebrated in Japmese
history as the scene of a det-if^ive battle
fou!?Iit in the year 1600 between Iey.'.8n aad
Bideyori, son of the ^eut Tlideyoshi, in
which leyasu triumphed. His camp at
Seki-ga'hara was on a level piece of ground
among the hills on the 1. side of the rotid,
near a hamlet chilled Nogami-mura.
Between Seki-ga-hara and
Na^aoka the gradient is steep,
the line being led up a narrow valley
opening out on a small plain devoted
to the cultivation of the mulberry-
tree. The tall bare mountain fre-
quently seen looming up to the r.
during this portion of the journey
is Ibuki-yama (about 4,300 ft.), one
of the ' Seven High Mountains * of
Central Japan, and noted in the
early Japanese pharmacopoeia for
its wealth of medicinal plants.
The 'Seven Higli_ Mountains* are Hiei-
zan, Hira-yarna in Ouii, Ibuki-yatna, Kim-
pu-zan (oi Omine) near Yoshino, Atago-
san in Yamasliiro, Touomine, and Kazn-
raki-yama.
Passing among pretty, pine-clad
hills we reach
Maibara {Inny Itsutsu-ya at the
station), whence all the way on to
Baba, the^ station for the important
town of Otsu, the line runs along
the basin of Lake Biwa, though
unfortunately not near enough to
the shore to allow of many glimpses
of the lake being obtained. The
Weatrni Section of Raihcai/.
269
^hole scenery is, however, pretty —
a,nd pretty in a way of its own.
Quite close, to the 1., is the range of
hills forming the Southern rim of
the Lake Biwa basin ; far awaj to
the r., in the dim distance, are the
blue mountains enclosing the lake
■on the N., while immediately on
either side of the line, is a fair
-cultivated plain. At
Hikoiie (InnSj Kaku-raku-tei, Ma-
tsu-ya) the former Daimyo's castle
is seen r. on a wooded hill. Before
reaching
!Notogawa, the rivers Serigawa,
Inukami-gawa, and Echigawa are
crossed. The cone of Mikami-yama,
also called Mukade-yama, shaped
like Fuji but tliickly wooded, begins
to peep up from behind a nearer
range of hills before reaching
Kasatsil. Between this place and
Baba, the most striking view on the
whole Tokaido W. of Shizuoka is
obtained on crossing the long bridge
that spans the Setagawa, the lake
opening out beautifully for a few
minutes. From
Baba or Otsu (Inn, Minarai-
tei, foreign style), the line passes
through a tunnel under Osaka-yania
(nothing to do with the city of D-
saka), before reaching the small
station of
Otatil, where it emerges on a
narrow valley. The hills are covered
with that thick growth of pine-trees
which is characteristic of all the
country round about Kyoto.
[For further details concerning
the portion of the Tokaid >
Route^ lying between ISIaibara
and Otani, see Route 44, en-
titled Lake Biica.]
Passing through thQ„stations of
Tniiiashina and Inari, the train
enters the old capital,
Kyoto, fully described in Route
43, after which it crosses a wide
plain and passes through several
minor stations before reaching the
great commercial town of
Osaka* described in Route 42.
From Osaka onwards, the hills in
the distance to the r. begin to draw
in, the broad fruitful plain rapidly
contracts until it becomes a mere
strip fringing the seashore, and at
the station of
Nisliiiioiiiiya there begins to rise
r. the screen* of somewhat baxaren
hills that lielp to give Kobe its good
climate by protecting that part of
the coast from wintry blasts. The
high land seen in tlie distance
across the water is not, as might be
supposed, an island, but a portion,
of the province oE Izumi. The three
tunnels passed through on this sec-
tion of the journey are remarkable
as going under river-beds. Owing
to the proximity of the neigh-
bouring mountains to the sea, quan-
tities of sand and stones are swept
down whenever tlie streams are
swollen by rain. As a consequence
of this, the river-beds tend con-
stantly to raise themselves more
and more above the general level
of the country, which they tra-
verse like dykes. Occasionally of
course a dyke breaks down, and
then there is an inundation with
attendant loss of life and property.
Soon after passing through
Sniniyosli], an insignificant place
not to be confounded with the well-
known Sumiyoshi near Sakai, the
train runs in to
Saiinoiiiiya, and the long jour-
ney is at an end, Sannomiya being
the station for the foreign settle-
ment of Kobe. To go on one station
further to what is technically called
Kobe, would carry the traveller
past his- destination into the
native town. It must therefore be
distinctly borne in mind that if
bound for Kobe, one must book only
as far as Sannomiya.
[For Kobe and Neighbourhood,
sec Route 41.]
270
Route 39, — The Xakasendu.
ROUTE 39.
The Nakasexdo.
Itinerary of the Nakasendo from
Yokohama to Gifu.
YOKOKAWA to :— Ri. Chd. M.
Sakamoto 1 31 4^
KARUIZAWA . . . . 2 31 7
Kutsukake 1 10 3
Oiwake 1 6 2f
Otai 1 12 3J
Iwamurata 1 3 2|
Shionada 1 16 3^
Yawata 23 1^
Mochizuki 33 2^
Ashida 1 9 3
Nagakubo 1 13 3J
Wada 2—5
SHIMO-NO-SUWA 5 23 13f
Shiojiri ».... 2 30 7
Seba 1 28 4^
Motoyama 28 2
Kiekawa 2 — 5
Narai 1 29 4 J
Yabuhara 1 12 3J
Miyanokoshi 1 35 4|
FUKUSHIMA.... 2 11 5|
Agematbu 2 11 5|
Suwara 3 7 7f
Nojiri 1 29 4^
Midono 2 11 5$
Tsumago 1 8 3
Magome 1 34 4|
Ochiai 1 7 3
NAKATSU-GAWA 1 — 2^
Oi 2 25 6^
Okute 3 13 8i
Hosokute 1 26 4J
Mitake 2 33 7
Fushimi 18 3
Ota 1 32 ^
Unuma 2 10 5^
Kano 4 7 lOJ
GIFU 24 1|
Total 68 30 168
The Nakasendo, or * Centrnl 'Monntnin
Bood,' is so named in contradistinction to
the 'I'dkaido, or ^Eaptem bea Road,' and
the Hokurokudd, or ' Northern Land Road,'
"between which it occupies a middle posi-
tion. It runs from Tokyo to Kyoto, pass-
inpr through the provinces of Musaslii,
Kdtsuke, Bhinshtt, Mino, Omi, and Ya-
mashiro. HRke road seems to hare been
originMlly ctrnftnicted eiirly in the 8th
centory. Legendary history 8tMt««, how-
ever, that in the reign of the £mperor
Keiko (A.D. 71-130), his 8'>n, Prince
Tamato-take, crossed over the Usui Pass
during his conquest of Eastern Japan,
sn^esting the inference that some Kind of
track was believed to hare existed there
from the very earliest times, 'ilie railway
route closely follows that of the ancient
highway over the well-cultivated plain of
Tokyo, and is flat lind uninteresting UII
Takasaki is left behind.
Though, properly speaking, the
Nakasendo nins the whole way from
Tokyo to Kyoto, the jwrtion be-
tween Yokokawa and Gifu is the
only one now usually done by road,
the Tokyo-Takasaki-Karuizawa Rail-
way, described in Route 12, having
replaced the Nakasendo across the
plain of Tokyo, and the final flat piece
between Gifu and Kyoto being alsa
now travelled over by the Tokaido
Railway (see Route 38) . The distance
between Yokokawa and Gifu may be
accomplished in 6 or 7 days. Jin-
rikishas are practicable as far as the
Wada-toge, after which point it is
only possible to use them on the
flat portions of the road, unless one
takes three or four coolies to each
jinrikisha. The distance byroad may
be shortened by taking train to Ta-
naka on the Karuizawa-Naoetsu
Railway, IJ hr. from Karuizawa.
Travellers coming from the direc-
tion of Naoetsu and desirous of
joining the Nakasendo, should alight
at Ueda (see Route 32). Those
coming from the Kyoto direction
are advised lo engage jinrikishas at
Gifu, and to take them right through
to Yokokawa. At Yokokawa it is
more difficult to make such an ar-
rangement for the journey to Gifu.
The Nakasendo traverses moun-
tainous, sparsely cultivated districts,
remote from populous centres, and
the peasantiy along the route have
a pinched and poverty-stricken ap-
pearance. The accommodation,
however, is fairly good. Milk, beer,
potatoes, etc., may be procured at
several places. The best time for
travelling along the Nakasendo is
the summer or autumn. Between
Fratn Karuizaiva to Shiuw-nO'Siiwa,
271
January and April this route is not ^
to be recommended, on account of
the snow — especially on the passes.
For the portion of the road as far
as Karuizawa, passing through Sa-
kamoto (Inn, Kodake-ya), see p. 142.
After passing through
Kiitsukake {Inn, Masu-ya), and
OiiTake^i^m,Nakamura), the latter
a place once possessing some im-
portance, but now ruined by the
railway having diverted the traffic
from the highway, the Nakasendo
makes a sharp turn to tlio 1. and
gradually descends the grassy base
of Asama-yama.
[For the ascent of this volcano
see p. 144.]
The ample sweep of the moun-
tain is calculated to impress the
beholder, and the walk over the
springy turf is most exliilarating.
Large blocks of lava that lie scat-
tered about in all directions attest
the violence of the eruption which
occurred in 17B3, when Oiwake and
other places in the vicinity were
completely destroyed. The track of
the Karuizawa-Naoetsu Railway is
crossed about 1 ri after leaving Oi-
wake.
Iwamnrata (Inn, Wakamatsu-
ya) was formerly the seat of a small
Daimyo, Naito Wakasa-no-Kami.
[At this place a road branches
off 1. to Kofu \'ih the Tsuyutare
Pass. See p. 138] .
Beyond Shioiiada the road crosses
the Chikuma-gawa, also called Shi-
nano-gawa, which, flowing north-
ward, becomes one of the great
rivers of Japan and falls into the
sea at Niigata. Between Yawata
and
Mocliiziiki (Inn, Kawachi-ya),
a fine view of Yatsu-ga-take aud
the mountains E. of jMatsumoto is
obtained from a hill called Uryii-
zaka. From ^lochizuki the road
giadually rises over undulating
country formed by the spurs of
Tateshina-yama to Ashita, a poor
Till, at the foot of the Kasatori-
toge. The ascent of this pass, 3,200
ft. above the sea, is short and easy,
and from the tea-house at the top,,
the traveller can enjoy a magnificent
prospect. The summit of Asama-
yama rises grandly above Gimba-
yama, with lesser heights stretching
away in a line to the 1., while
below lies the wide moor that has
just been traversed. At the foot of
the pass on the other side (650 ft.
down), is the village of
Nagnkiibo {Inn, Yamazaki-ya).
Wada {Inns, Hagawa-ya, Nagai)
lies at the N.E. foot of the pass of
the same name {Wada-tdgv), the
longest and highest en the Kaka-
sendd, being 5,300 ft. above the
level of the sea. Snow lies on it up
to the end of April, but is seldom
so deep as to block the road*
Rather than stay overnight at
Wada, which is often crowded in
summer, most travellers prefer
pushing on to the cluster of tea-
houses (Kiso-ya and Tsuchi-ya are
the best) collectively known as
Higashi Mochiya, 6 cho from
the top of the pass. The glorious^
view from the summit may best
be enjoyed by climbing one of
the hills to tlie r. of the road,,
involving ^ lir. delay. To the
N.E., rises Asama-yama ; to the
S.E. Tateshina and Yatsu-ga-take ;
S.W. the eye rests upon the basin
of Lake Suwa; further to the W.
stand Koma-ga-take and Ontake,.
while to the N.W. a great portion
of the Hida-Shiushu rauge is visible.
The descent to Shimo-no-Suwa
soon leads to a dull valley between
hills of no great height, every avail-
able nook of which has been brought
under cultivation. The stone monu-
ment passed on the way is to the
memory of six warriors who, sur-
prised here by the enemy, com-
mitted harakiri rather than sur-
render. This was in December, 1863.
Shiiiio-no-Sinva {Iniis, *Maru-ya,
KikyO-ya) lies in a large basin, the
greater part of which is occupied
by Lake Suwa. It is celebrated
for its hot-springs, the principal
of which, called }yata-no-yu, are
272
Route 39. — The Xalcasefido.
situated at the top of the street
where the Nakaseodo turns to the
r. and the Kosliu Kaido branches
off to the 1. The baths are very
<;lean ; the temperature, 113°.9 F.
According to the inhabitants these
waters contain silver. Of the two
other principal sources in the vill.,
one called Ko-yUj which contains
alum, has the high ^ temperature of
145°.4 ; the other, called Tanga-ytiy
has a temperature of 114°.8. As
in the case of many Japanese spas,
Shimo-no-Suwa is apt to be noisy
of an evening. In the day time it
is busy with the silk industr5\ The
only buildings of any interest at
Shimo-no-Suwa are two temples
dedicated to the Shinto goddess
Yasaka-iri-hime, one of which is
•called HarU'tw-viiyay or the Spring
Temple, the other, Aki-iio-vm/a, or
the Autumn Temple. In the grounds
of the latter stands a cryptomeria
remarkable for its gigantic size. A
quarter of an hour's walk taJces one
to the lake which is almost circular
in form, having a diameter of about
1 ri. Its depth is said to be 35 ft.
Lake Suva freezes oyer most winters so
solidly that lienvily laden pack horses can
cross over to Kami-no-Svwa^ near tlie S. E.
extremity of the iHke, "with perfect safety.
U'he inhabitAnts do not, however, venture
upon the i<'e until it has cracked across,
believing? this to be a sipn from heaven.
8ome attribute the ernckingr to the foxes.
Durinjf the winter the flj<hennen make
holes in tlie ice, through which tliey insert
their nets and contrive to take a ctjnsider-
able quantity of lish, especially caip. From
the JS. end of Lake Suwa issues the
TennQ-pawa, wliich flows into the sea on
the Tokaido. For the descent of the flue
rapids of this river see p. 240.
From Shimo-no-Suwa the Naka-
sendo runs for some distance
through rich rice-fields extending
to the edge of the lake. To tlie foot
of the Shiojiri-toge is a distance of
21 cho. On looking back, views of
Fuji are obtained from different
points. The ascent of the pass is
at first gentle, and in the steeper
part there is a well-graded jinriki-
sha road. But pedestrians will do
best to take the older and steeper
path, which saves time and af-
fords finer views. The finest view^
of all is to be obtained from a
slight eminence to the 1. of the road
at the top, 3,340 it. above the sea.
Below lies the lake with villages
studded over the adjacent plain. Of
the high mountains that almost com-
pletely encircle the lake basin, Ya-
tsu-ga-take is the most prominent.
To the r. of the dip at the far-end of
the lake, a portion of Fuji is seen
behind the nearer range. The sharp
peak further round to the r. is the
K5shu Koma-ga-take, and further
away rises the long summit of
Shirane-san. A little further back,
the top of On take is just visible-
Just behind are the lofty peaks of
the range separating the plain of
^Matsumoto from the province of
Hida. The descent on the other
side is very easy. Passing through
Sliiojiri (Inn^ Kawakami), Seba>
and ,
Moloyama (Inn, Hanamura-ya),
we come to some charming scenery
on the banks of the Saigawa, and
follow that river to
Nie^awrt, where the inn kept by
by Okuya Dembei is the most com-
fortable to be found anywhere
on this route. Niegawa marks the
commencement of the Kiso district,
watered by the Kisogawa, which is
famous for its beauty. Hence the
alternative name of the Kiso Kaido,
by which the Nakasendo is some-
times mentioned. After Niegawa,
the road crosses the river to Hira-
sawa, where cheap and useful
lacquered articles are made in large
quantities, and then re-crosses to
Narai [Inns, Echigo-ya, Tokkuri-
ya), 3,330 ft. above the sea at
the foot of the ToiH-toge. This
pass, though short, is steeper than
those hitherto crossed on the Naka-
sendo ; the height of the summit is
4,200 ft., the distance from Narai to
that point being 22 chb. f^rom the
top, the eye wanders over the valley
through which the upper waters of
the Kisogawa fiow. The foliage is
very fine, — beeches, horse-chestnuts^
Tlie Kiso Valley, Ftihtshima, . Agematsn,
27a
walnut-trees, and maples, which in
autumn blaze with every tint of
red and yellow.
The name of this pass is derived from
the torii on the top, dedicated to Ontnke,
the summit of which luountaiu is visible
hence on a clear day. Strange as it may
seetn, two battles were foug-lit oa this spot
in the 16th century, between some of the
rival chieftains who, during that period of
Anarchy, shared Eastern Japan amongst
^em. From the base of Asama-ynma up
to this point, the prevalent formation is
stratified rock which breaks up into small
sharp pieces extremely uncomfortable to
the feet, while beyond it is chiell/ granite
'vrhich, when disintegrated, forms au excel-
lent material for road-making.
The descent to Vabliliara (Inns,
Xawakami, Kawashima-ya), 8,150
ft. above the sea, is by an easy
gradient. The peasants, both male
and female, of this neighbourhood
wear a divided skirt of a peculiar
cut. They also use an odd kind of
spade, heavy and two-handled. The
diggers stand opposite each other,
one delving, the other using the
second handle to assist in raising
the blade for the next blow. Good
potatoes are grown hereabouts,
and are largely used, not only for
food, but for the manufacture of
spirits (sJidchu).
[From Yabuhara a road follows
the r. bank of the Kisogawa
nearly up to its source, and
passes over into the province of
Hida.]
The road now follows the 1. bank
of the Kisogawa, crossing to the r.
bank at a point where tlie valley
contracts and. begins to wind about.
After passing
MiyAiiokoshi (Imi, Tonari-ya),
there is a fine view near the
village ' of Ueda of the Shinshii
£oma-ga-take, which consists of
several rugged peaks rising to an
altitude of over 10,000 ft. The
lower hill in front is called Suisho-
zan, from the fact that rock-crystals
are found in it. All the avail-
able ground near ^liyanokoshi is
planted with mulberry trees. Most
of the silk produced finds its way to
the looms of Nagahama in Omi.
Fliklishima [Inn, Suimei-ro, pic-
turesquely situated) is a good-sized
town extending along both banks of
the Kisogawa. The portion of the
route between Fukushima and
Agematsu surpasses all the rest of
the Nakasendo both in charm and
grandeur. Indeed, either Fuku-
shima or
Agematsn (Inny Hakuichi-ya)
would be a delightful place for the
lover of mountain scenery to stay
at for a few days. Both Ontake
and Koma-ga-take • can be conveni-
ently ascended from these points.
(See Koute 34.)
The next object of interest on
the road is the monastery of Rhi-
zetiji, from the grounds of which a
steep path descends to a plat-
form of rock known as Nemme no
tokOy or ' the Bed of Awakening.'
This curions name is derived from a
local tradition which avers tliat Urashima,
the Japanese Rip Van Winkle (see Ete. 47),.
awoke in this spot from his long' dream.
Others, more matter-of-fact, explain the
name to mean that tlie view * wakes up,'
that is, startles those who come upon it.
Besides the * platform,' there are
other rocks, precipitous and pic-
turesque, to which fanciful names
have been given, such as the Screen
Rock, th6 Mat Rock, etc. The native
guide-bbok says, * The wonderful
scenery at this spot surpasses even
the most magnificent prospects in
other parts. Its noble character
can scarcely be fully appreciated by
the mind or adequately described
in language ! '
The Namcgawa is next crossed
by a bridge from which there is a
fine view of Koma-ga-take up the
gorge. A little beyond this on the
1., just before reaching Ogiwara, is
the Cascade of Ono, Fifteen clio-
further on is thevill. of Tatsumachi,
and 1^ ri more journeying brings
the traveller to
Siiwara (Inn, Sakura-ya), which
lies in a more open part of the
valley, nearer to the level of the
river. At Hashiwa, a hamlet
beyond Suwara, skins of the great
falcon {kimia-taka) and of the
Uli
FiOiOe 39. — llie XaJcasendo,
sheep-faced antelope (iwa'sUika) are
hung out for sale. From
Nojiri (Inn, Furu-ya) to
Midoiio (Inn, Miyagawa) is the
narrowest part of the valley ; the
rocks are steep, and the road over-
hangs the rushing stream. In many
places it is laid on ledges huilt out
from the rock, and at one point passes
over a projecting rock by means of
two bridges thrown across deep gul-
lies. Tsumago should be avoided as
s. halting-place, the inns being un-
usually poor and malodorous. The
road now ascends the Magome-iogc
by a gentle gradient. The summit
commands an extensive view of the
province of Mino, with its low-lying,
somewhat bare and sandy hills. On
the other side of the pass is the
vill. of
MngOiiie (Inn, Kuno-ya), perched
on the top of a wooded hill cut into
terraces for the cultivation of rice.
The descent from Magome is called
the Jdh-kokn-toge, said to be a cor-
ruption of Jik-kyokiij or ' ten turn-
ings.' About 400 ft. below Magome,
s. post marks the boundary between
the provinces of Shinshu and Mino.
Ochiai lies in a hollow by the
side of an affluent of the Kiso-
g&wsi, which latter river here again
comes in sight to the r. The road now
crosses the spurs of Ena-san until
' reaching
^akaitsii-^awa (Inn, Hashiriki),
which is situated close to the base
of that mountain. From here the
way is mostly hilly on to
Ui (l7in, Ishikawa).
[Between Oi and Mitake, a dis-
tance of 8 rl along the Najca-
sendo, 1 ri may be saved by
diverging along branch roads
called the Shita Kaidb and
Naka , Kaidb, passing through
the village of Kamado (Inn,
Suzuki), and avoiding the climb
over tlie Ju-san-toge. On this
route lies a gorge lined with
great black boulders of curious
shape, known by such names
as the 'The Devil's Washing
Basin,* * The Hanging BeU
Rock,' etc. Ciystals and pebbles
of various colours are found
here.]
The road from Oi to Okute lies
over a succession of hills called the
Ju'San-tdge, or * Thirteen Passes,'
none of which are very high. From
an elevation above the Shichi-Jion-
matsti-mka, or Hill of the Seven
PJne-Trees, there is a grand view of
both Ontake and Koma-ga-take. The
general aspect of the surrounding
hills is bare.
•Oknte (Inn, Yamashiro-ya) is &
neat town ou the level. Between
here and
Hos kiite (Inn, Matsu-ya), the
road passes over a series of hills
called collectively the Biiva-tbge.
At Hosokute the traveller should
ask for a tsngiimi, a kind of thrush
preserved in ye&st (kbji-znke), which
when slightly roasted is delicious,
and forms a welcome addition to-
monotonous travelling fare. Passing
through
At i take (Inn, Kawaguchi-ya) and
Fnshimi, we cross the Kisogawa to
Ota (inn, Iwaiya), from which
place the river is navigable. From
Ota to, Gifu there is little to
mention, except that this part of the
route is the most comfortable for
jinrikisha riding. The well-kept road
passes through vistas of green
avenues, with beautiful glimpses of
the Kisogawa which now becomes
a broad and deep river.
Gifii (see p. 268).
1
Route 40. — Voyage from Yokohama to Kobe,
275
ROUTE 40.
By steamer from Yokohama to
KoBE.f
While steaming down Tokyo Bay,
there is a good view of Fuji with
the Hakone range in the foreground
on the r. ; on the 1. is the flat shore
of the province of Kazusa. At 1 hr.
the ship will be near Kwannon-zaki,
on which there is a fixed white light
visible 14 miles, showing a red ray
in a certain direction to guide ves-
sels clear of Saratoga Spit (Futtsu-
saki) and Plymouth Bocks to the
southward.
One of the first BritiRli men-of-war to
enter Tokyo Bay, the old * Imp^rieuse,*
flHg-ship of Adinii-al 8ir James Hope,
urrounded un Saratov Spit, and had to
throw her guns overboai'd before she could
be floated off.
Powerful forts have been con-
structed on Kwannon-zaki and on
Saratoga Spit for the defence of the
Bay. After passing Kwaunon-zaki,
the ship steers down the Uraga
Channel, so called from the town of
that name on the shores of a small
harbour a few miles S.W. of Kwan-
non-zaki, which was formerly the
port of entry for Tokyo Bay. At 2
hrs. Tsurugi-saki, the south end of
the channel, is rounded, where
there is a light visible 24 m.
Thence the track lies S.W. to Rock
Island across the Bay of Sagami,
which opens on the r., and close past
the north end of Vries Island, des-
cribed in Route 8. From 4 to 6 hrs.
the ship will be running almost paral-
lel to the coast of the peninsula of
Izu, within 10 m. of the shore. A
fine prospect may be enjoyed of its
rugged mountain chain, with Fuji
beyond, bearing N.W. At 6 hrs.
Hock Island (Mikomoto)^ ofi the
extreme S. of Izu, is reached ;
on it is a fine light visible 20 m.
From Rock Island, the direct route
t The expressions * at 1 hour,' *■ at 2 liours,'
etc., in the description of this voyage,
signify * when the steamer has been 1 hour
out of Yokohama,' *■ 2 hours out of Yoko-
hama,' etc., taking 12 knots per hour as
the average speed.
is W.S.W. to the S.E. extremity
of the province of Kishu. This
course, which is followed in the
summer months, leads the ship so
far off shore that there is little to
be distinguished. But in winter
the N.W. winds generally blow so
strongly that,^to avoid the heavy
sea, the ship, after passing Rock
Island, is kept due W., crossing
the mouth of Suruga Gulf, and
at 9 hrs. is off Omae-saki, dis-
tinguishable at night by a red
light visible 19 m. Fuji is now 60
m. distant, and will not be seen,
much after this point eitcept in clear
winter weather. From Omae-saki
the track recedes for some hours
from the land, which, being low, is
not particularly interesting ; and if
the ship left Yokohama just before
sunset, this part will be passed in
the night. At 13 hrs. the ship is
ofi Owari Bay, a deep bay stretch-
ing some 30 m. to the northward,
narrow at the entrance, but widening
out considerably inside. It is from.
Omae-saki to this point that the
voyage is generally most trying to
bad sailors. At 15 hrs. the _ship is
ofi Cape Shima, whence to Oshima
is a run of 70 m., gradually ap-
proaching the land, where fine views
of the bold and picturesque moun-
tains of the provinces of Kishu and
Yamato are to be had.
This Oiihiraa is of course different from
the O'ihiuia (Vries Iijland) mentioned above.
There are uumeix>us Oshima's off the Japa-
nese coa^t, which is not to be wondeied at, as
the naiJie means ' big island.' ThiH particiilar
Oshitiia ha-s been the scene of repeated
maritime disitsters. The latest and moet
terrible was tlie foundering of the Tur^
kish man-of-war 'Ei1x)Ugroul' in siep-
tember, 1890, when 502 men perished out of
a ci'ew of 571.
From 16 hrs. to 29 hrs. is generally
considered the most enjoyable part of
the run from Yokohama to Kobe, and
the traveller should make a point o£
being on deck as much as possible.
Rounding Oshima, which is marked
by a red light visible 18 miles, at
20 hrs., the vessel is close enough,
to the shore to note the thickly
studded fishing villages, whose fleets
276
EotUe 40. — Voyage from Yokohmna to Kobe,
of boats cover the water for miles.
On both sides of the Kii (or Kishu)
Promontory, whale-fishing with nets
is carried on. Half an hour's
steaming from Oshima brings us to
Shio Misaki, on which is a light
visible 20 m., intended to guide
vessels from the eastward.' From
Shio Misaki the track lies close
along the shore — sometimes within
2 m., seldoln more than 4 m. — to
Hiino Misaki, a run of about 60
m., which, if made in daylight,
will be even more enjoyable than
the 70 miles mentioned above.
The hills of the bold and rugged
coast of Kishu to the r. are said to
abound in pheasants, deer, bears,
and monkej^s. The land now visi-
ble on the 1. is the East coast of
the Island of Shikoku. At 25 hrs.
the ship is off Hiino Misaki, and
after steering due North for 26 m.,
will pass through Izumi or Yura
Strait, which is about 6 m. wide,
the passage for ships being narrowed
to 2 m. by two islands called Ji-no-
shima and Oki-no-shima, on the W^
side of which latter is a lighthouse^
From Izumi Strait to Kobe is a run
of 30 m. across a completely land-
locked bay, with the large Island of
Awaji on the 1. Kobe is generally-
reached at from 28 to 30 hrs., wea-
ther being favourable.
Passenger steamers usually re-
main 24 hrs. at Kobe, which gives
travellers an opportunity to visit
Osaka and Kyoto.
The chief distances of the run
between Yokohama and Kobe, as
made by the Nippon Ywien Kivai-
sha's steamers, are as follows : —
Yokohama to : — Miles,
Lightship 2
Kwannon-zaki 14
Cape Sagami 23
Rock Island 74
Oshima 244
Hiino Misaki 297
Oki-no-shima , 322
Hyogo Point ! 346
Company's Buoy 348
SECTION V.
WESTERN JAPAN AND THE
INLAND SEA.
(Routes 41 — ^0.
Eonte 41. — Kobe and Xeighboiirhood,
279
= ROUTE 41.
Kobe and Neighbourhood.
'— ^jkuta. nunobiki waterfalls.
^ suwa-yama. maya-san (the moon
temple). futatabi-san. obu.
t momiji-dera. taisanji. takara-
Jl ZUKA. BISMARCK HILL. SUMA,
maiko, and akashi on the sanyo
railway. mino. arima. rokko-
san. hyogo.
Kobe.
Hotels. — Oriental, No. 80, near the
centre of the Settlement ; Hyogo
Hotel, facing the sea and close to
the landing-place in the Settlement ;
Hdtel des Colonies.
• Japanese Inn. — Tokiwa.
Consulates. — British (including
Austro-Hungarian and Spanisli),
and German (including Italian) on
the Bund ; American, No. 15,
Settlement ; French, No. 21.
. Ba7iks. — Hongkong and Shanghai
Bank, No. 2, Bund ; New Oriental,
No. 11, Bund ; Agents for Chartered
, Mercantile Bank of India, London
j and China, No. 7 ; Agents for
I Chartered Bank of India, Australia
and China, No. 26.
Churches. — Union Protestant
Church (Anglican and Congrega-
tional services), No. 48; Roman
Catholic, No. 37.
Curio-dealers. — Museum of Arts
and Manufactures, No. 30, Settle-
ment, a foreign store.
Native Curio-shops. — Echigo-ya
I and variqus others in Moto-machi ;
[ Ohashi, for modern art products, at
j the end of Division Street near the
railway.
I PJwtographers. — Ichida, in Moto-
machi (5lain Street), native town ;
Kasuga, in Sakae-machi.
Newspapers. — *' Hyogo News "
• and " Kobe Herald," daily.
Steadier Agencies. — Peninsular
[and Oriental Co., No. 109; Mes-
«ageries Maritimes, No. 5 ; Nord-
deutscher Lloyd, No. 10 ; Canadian
Pacific, No. 26; Nippon YGsen
r
Kwaisha, No. 2, Native Bund.
Kobe is also the centre for the
numerous small steamers plying on
the coast of the Inland Sea.
The Kobe Club and the Recreation
Ground for cricket, base-ball, lawn-
tennis, &c., are at the E. end of the
Settlement.
r/iea/rc.^— Daikoku-za, at Nanko-
mae in the Japanese town. There
is also one at Hyogo called Ben-
ten-za.
The Post and Telegraph Office and
the terminus (Kobe station) of the
Tokaido Railway from Yokohama to
Kobe are in the native town at the
«
W. end of Sakae-machi. The sta-
tion nearest to the Settlement for
travellers to Osaka, Kyoto, and
Yokohama is Sannomiya, 5 min.
from the landing-place, following
Division street. Kobe station is
also the terminus of the Sanyo
line running down the shore of the
Inland Sea, and travellers in that
direction should, in order to avoid
delay, start from Kobe station, not
from Sannomiya. No passports are
required for Osaka; but persons
travelling to places beyond that
town in one direction, and to Hi-
meji and beyond in the other, are
compelled to produce passports be-
fore tickets are issued to them.
Local passports for Kyoto, Nara»
and the shores of Lake Biwa are
procurable at the foreign department
of the Prefecture; but strangers
must apply for them through their
consulates. More extensive pass-
ports are obtainable within three or
four days from the Japanese For-
eign Office in Tokyo, on application
through the Consulates.
Kobe was opened to foreign trade in
1S68. Previous to that time the ntttiTS
trade whs carried on at Hyogo. a lance
town adjoiuin;? Kobe on the 6.W., and
griviug its name to the whole Prefecture.
The municipal affairs of the Hettlement
are managed by a Council consisting of the
Japanese prefect, the foreign consuls, and
three elected mernbei's of the community.
Owing to the increase in the trade and
populatiou of the port. Kobe is rapidly
extending bevond the Settlement up the
slope to the foot of the hills, as far as the
280
Botite 41, — Kobe and ^eif/JihowJiood,
[
limit within which foreigners are allowed
to lease land uud houses.
Kobe is the favourite open port in
Japan, owing to the purity and dry-
ness of its air, and its nearness to
many places of beauty and interest,
such as Kyoto, Lake Biwa, Nara,
and the Inland Sea. The neigh-
bourhood abounds in pretty walks
and picnic resorts, of wliich the fol-
lowing are the chief : —
1. Ikllta. The Shinto temple of
Ikuta stands in a wood of crjp-
tomerias and camphor trees, 5 min.
walk behind the foreign Settlement.
The deity worshipped is Waka-
hirume-no-^Iikoto, who may be
styled the Japanese Minerva, as she
is supposed to have taught the use
of the loom and to have introduced
clothing.
The t*»mple is said to have been fonnded
by the Empre»s Jin^o on her return from
her famous expedition ng'ains»t Korea, in
honour of ttiis goddcHS w}iom (she had
adopted as the patr<»ness of lier enterpiise,
and to whom she owed the victory f?iiined
by her arm^j. Hideyoslii, wlien despatch-
ing his expedition to Korea in the 16th
century, caused prayers to be offered up at
the shrine of this proddess. I'rayers to
her in seasons of drousfht or o^ excessive
rain are said to be invariably answered.
J Pestivrtl, 3rd Aijril. Annual fuir, 23rd to
I 27th September.
A 2. The Niiiiobikl Watcifiills are
about 20 min. from the Settlement,
past the Recreation Ground. Tlie
path first reffches the Me-dakij or
'Female Fall,' 43 ft. high; then
j)as.sing through a tea-house and
over a covered bridge, it reaches
other tea-houses which command a
view of the upper, or * Male Fall '
{Odakl), 82 ft. high. Troops of
large monkeys arc sometimes seen
in this neighbourhood. A good
view of Kobe and the surrounding
country may be had from Sunago-
yama, a detached hill near the fall.
^here is a tea-house at the top.
3. SniYa-yaiiin. This spur of the
range behind Kobe, crowned by tea-
houses where mineral baths may be
taken, commands an extensive
view of the town and sea-shore. It
fras here that, in 1874, the transit
of Venus was observed by a party of
French astronomers.
4. Mnya-san is the name of one
of the liighest peaks (2,490 ft.) of
the range behind Kobe. The sum-
mit is about 2 hrs. walk from Kobe^
return 1^ hr. This place is known
to foreigners as .the Moo7i Temple —
a purely fanciful designation, as
the place has nothing to do with.
the moon, but is dedicated to Maya.
Bunin, the mother of Buddha. The
temple stands on a platform at the
top of a stone staircase, about*
400 ft. below the top of the moun-
tain, which is reached by passing
through a door to the 1. of the
chapel in the rear, before ascending..
The temple contains a small image
of Maya Bunin, one of a pair
made by order of Wu Ti of the Liang
dynasty (A.D. 502-529), with the
object of diminishing the mortality
of women in child-birth, which was.
very great during his reign. It was.
obtained by Kobu Daishi during his
stay in China.
A, 5. Fiitatnbisati, a temple dedi-
cated to Kobo Daishi, stands on a^
conical hill covered with trees-
behind the first i*ange of hills to the
N. of Kobe. It is accessible either
by a stiff climb of 1 hr. through &
pass properly called Kuruma-dani,
but known to tlic foreign residents.
as ' Hunter's Ciap,' at the foot of
which is a small spring containing
sulphur, or by a more roundabout
but less steep ascent entering a valley
to the W. of Suwa-yama. The view
from the top repays the climb, and
the outlook to the N. is picturesque,,
giving a bird's-eye view of the lake
and bare weather-worn hills known
to foreigners &s Aden jWhich locality
the prospect somewhat resembles.
The Japanese name is Shari-yama.
In the autumn, the colouring of the
foliage on Futatabi is particularly
fine. Near the summit, on the
r. hand going up, is the Kaine-
ishif a rock the top of which is
roughly fashioned into the head and
fore-legs of a tortoise (kamc).
WalJcs ami Excursions.
281
6. An agreeable round of a little
•over 3 hrs. may be made by
passing Futatabi-san on the W.,
descending to Aden, and taking a
path along the W. shore of the lake,
■which leads into the Arima road
near Obu, whence the pedestrian
•can return to Kobe viA Hyogo.
-Jinrikishas may usually be procured
:at the Obu-no-chaya, a tea-house a
little way up the Arima road.
7. A pleasant walk may be taken
"by following up the waterfall stream
above the falls ; but a time should
"be chosen when the stream is not
•over-full, as the path crosses it
some twenty times by means of
stepping-stones. From points on
this path the ascent may be made
-of Futatabi-san on the W., and of
Iklaya-san on the E.
8. A track following the summit
•of the first range at the back of
Kobe from E. to W. affords, along
its entire length, a fine view of the
•sea. One of the ways down near
Suyama passes tlirough the Crema-
tion Ground, where cremation is
•carried on in a way more curious
than agreeable to the senses of sight
tind smell.
9. Zenshoji or Momijl-dera, that
is, * Maple Temple,' lies some dis-
tance beyond Hyogo. Though the
walk there is uninteresting, the
temple itself is prettily situated.
Further again to the \V., in the
hills behind Takatori-yama or, ' Coal
Hill,' lies Taisanjiy a large collec-
tion of old temple buildings, situated
in a valley surrounded by finely
wooded hills.
10. A good walk may be taken by
following the road from Karasu-
wara on the outskirts of Hj'ogo,
through the ' Horse-shoe Valley ' to
Obn. Particular notice should be
taken of a precipitous rock high
up the hillside on the 1. hand. On
its face the Buddhist invocation
Namit Amida Butsit has been cut
in gigantic characters, to accom-
plish which the person who carved
them must have been suspended
from the summit by a rope.
The railway now affords facilities
for making a number of more dis-
tant excursions. Such are those to
11. TaknraziikA (*Takarazuka
Hotel, foreign style), 1 hr. by jin-
rikisha from Nishiuomiya station.
This place has good mineral baths
and several pretty walks, especially
those to the temples of Kojin-san*
and Nagahama.
12 In the same direction is Ka~
hiito-yama, called by the foreign re-
sidents Bismarck Hill, from the re-
semblance of the four trees on its
summit to the four hairs which the
great Chancellor is said to have on his
liead. Curious stone images and
shrines are here to be seen perched
on apparently inaccessible pinnacles.
The climb, easy as far as the temple
of Hachiman, is almost breakneck
from there to the summit ; but the
view is magnificent, this hill being
a landmark for the whole country-
side and for ships navigating up the
Kii Channel. From the bridge at
Nishinomiya the top can be reached
in 1^ hr.
13. Siiiiia, Maiko, and Akaslii are
well-known places on the Sanyo
Railway, where the Kobe residents
often hire summer lodgings. The
following inns may be recommend-
ed:— Ho3^o-in at Suma; Kame-ya
at Maiko; and Hashimoto-ya at
Akashi. At Akashi, which is a
pleasant spot for picnics, there is
a fine temple in honour of the
ancient poet Kaki-no-moto-no-Hito-
maro. Akashi is also remarkable
as the place recently selected as the
time meridian for all Japan.
From the time of Hitomaro early in the
8tli century onward, the Japanese poets
have never tired of sin sing' the beauties of
this pine-clad coast. Here also is laid the
scene of some of the most celebrated chap-
ters of the Genji Monogatariy the greatest
of the classical romances, composed cArcn
A.D. 1000. This coast has likewise been
the scene of stirring historical events,
more particularly of a great battle fought
in the year 1184 between the armies of the
rival clans of Taira and Minamoto, -who
282
Boiite 41. — Kobe and Xeighbourhood.
were then »till strnggrling for ix)1itical
supremacy, though the final triumph of the
Mioamoto in tne person of Yoritoino was
not far off. Tlie battle was fought close
to the W. end of Suma in a ralley called
Ichi-no-tani, nnd whs the occasion of au
incident famous in history and song as the
'Death of Atsumori.' (See Kumagui Nao-
zanif, p. 42.)
14. Hirano. This place, suitable
for picnics, is situated 10 m. north
of Kanzaki Station on the Tokai-
do Bail way. A jinrikisha road
leads to it, passing about half-way
a very pretty gorge through which
dashes a stream called Tsuzumi-ga-
taki. The mineral spring of Hirano
is the Apollinaris of Japan. Visi-
tors will be shown over the establish-
ment by the manager.
15. Mino. This pjace is best
Teached by train to Osaka, whence
it is a 2 hrs. jinrikisha ride. The
jinrikishas must be left at the en-
trance of the vill. Shortly beyond,
the path enters a beautiful glen
some 2 m. in length, terminated
abruptly by a tall cliff over which
falls a cascade 70 ft. high. The
best time to visit Mino is in Novem-
ber, when the maple-trees glow
vith an almost incredible blaze of
colours. It is also very pretty in
April, when the cherry-trees are in
blossom. Some way up the glen,
on the r., is a temple with a little
pavilion overlooking the stream — a
favourite spot for picnics.
16. Arinia (Innsj Sugimoto, Masu-
da, and Kiyomizu, all with Euro-
pean food and beds), the favourite
hill station and summer resort of
the Kobe residents, lies 9 m. from
Kobe as the crow flies, and is 1,400 ft.
above sea level. The air is cool, the
scenery pretty enough though not
remarkable,, and there are pleasant
rambles to be made in the vicinity.
The arrangements at the mineral
springs are not specially adapted
for foreign visitors; but all the inns
have an abundance of beautifully
clear, cold water. Arima may be
most easily reached by taking the
train to Sumiyoshi, 15min., and then
walking over the Kokko-san Pass,
I a distance of 8 m. for which ^
hrs. must be allowed. Persons in-
capable of walking so far can hire
chairs at Sumiyoshi station, and get
carried up in 4 hrs. The pass, which
is about two-thirds of the way to-
Arima, lies 3,000 ft. above the sea.
From the top of liokko-san itself^
200 ft. higher, a fine view may be
obtained.
16. It is easy from Kobe to visit
the large and interesting Island of
Awaji, which forms the subject-
matter of Boute 49, and to start
on the tour down the Inland Sea
sketched out in Route 50.
Hyogo.
Hyogo (Inn^ Tokiwa) adjoins.
Kobe on the S.W. It begins just
beyond the Minato-gawa, which is-
easily distinguished by the tall pine-
trees lining its banks. The bed of
this river, like many others along
this coast, is raised to a consid>
erable height above the surround-
ing country, owing to the masses of
sand and pebbles continually swept
down from the neighbouring hills^
It is generally dry, except im-
mediately after heavy rain. The
banks have been neatly laid out so
as to form a public walk, which
leads to the Shinto temple erected
since the Kestoration of 1868 to
the memory of the loyal warrior
Kusunoki ^Masashige. — The Bud-
dhist temple of ShijiJxdji, possesses a
large bronze Buddha which is worth
a ^'isit. In the same locality is a
monument to Kiyomori, consisting;
of a pagoda-shaped pillar 20 ft.
high. The temple of Seifukuji will
be familiar by name to all admirers-
oi Mitford's * Tales of Old Japan,-
as the scene of the Jmrakiri which
he witnessed and so graphically
describes. More modern, having
been only completed in 1891, is the
Daibutsu at the temple of Nd/ukuji.
This large image of Buddha is 43 ft.
high, and 85 ft. round the waist ; the
length of the face is 8.^ ft., the eye
3 ft., the ear 6 ft., the nose 3} ft.»
Boute 42, — OsaJsa and Neighbourhood.
2da
the mouth 2} ft., the diameter of
the lap 25 ft., and the circumference
of the thumb 2 ft.
Hydgo first rose into prominence in the
latter part of the 12th ceutoiy, when Kiyo-
mori removed the capital from KyOto to
Fukuwara in the immediate vicinity. This
change of capital only lasted six months —
from the 26th June, 1180, to the 20th
December of the same year; but Kiyo-
mori's partiality for the place left perma-
nent effects, he having diverted the bed of
the Minato-gawa to its present coarse so aa
to prevent it from flooding the town, and
having constructed the artificial island
of Tsakijima virhich subsists to this day.
The stuuy bed of the Minato-gawa was
the scene, in A.D. 1336, of a bloody battle
between tiie partisans of thb rightful Km-
peror Go-Daigo, and Takauji, founder
of the Aflhikaga line of Shoguus. In this
battle the famous loyal warriors Nitta
Toshisada and Kusunoki Masashige suf-
fered a crushing defeat, after which Masa-
shige, rather than fly, committed harakiri.
ROUTE 42.
Osaka and Neighbourhood.
1. THE city: the mint, tenjin
sama, kozu-no-miya, ikudama-no-
jinja, tennoji, dotombobi, hon-
gwanji temples. 2. neighbour-
hood : sumiyoshi and sakai.
1. — The City of Osaka.
Osaka, also pronounced Ozaka,
is reached by the Tokaido Railway
from Kobe in a little over 1 hr., and
from Kyoto in 1^ hr.
Hotel. — Jiutei, in Nakanoshima,
10 min. from the Tokaido Railway
station.
Japanese Inn. — Tokiwa.
Japanese Restaurant. — Soikwan-
ro.
Post and Telegraph Offices. — At
the Umeda Railway station, at
Shinsai-bashi, at Korai-bashi, and
in the Foreign Settlement.
Theatres. — In the Dotombori.
Curio Dealers. — Yamanaka, Ogu-
ni, and others at Korai-bashi.
Silk Mercers. — Mitsui, at Korai-
bashi; Daimaru, in the Shinsai-
bashi-suji ; and Obashi-ya in Mido-
suji.
There are many good shops
of various kinds in the Shinsai-
bashi-suji. The bazaars (kwankdba)
deserve a visit. The best are the
Furitsu Hakiibtitsti-jo between
Umeda Station and Tennoji, the
Shohin Mihon Chinretsu-jb in D6-
jima, and the Shbgyb Club at
Imamiya.
For Steam Communication to
Awaji and Inland Sea ports, see
Routes 49 and 50.
Eailway Stations. — There are
three, viz., one at Umeda for the
Tokaido, one in Mitiatockb for Nara,
and one at Namba for Sumiyoshi
and Sakai. Each of these stations
is about 20 min. by jinrikisha from
the others.
Hintoryand Topography. — This wealthy
coxmnercial city, situated at the mouth of
the Yodogawa, covers an area of nearly S
square miles. The earliest use of the name
Osaka occurs in a document dating from
the end of the 15th century, applied to part
of the township of Ikudama. The ancient
name of the city, still used in poetry, was
yaniwa, said to be a corruption of nami
haya * wave-swift,' or nami kana * wave-
flowers,' l)ecause the fleet of Jimmu Tenn5
here encountered a boisterous sea on its
arrival from Hyaga. In 1583 Hideyoshi
resolved to make Osaka the seat of his
power, judging that he could from this
position most easily dominate the Dai-
myos of the South and West. He there-
fore ordered a Castle to be constructed.
Labourers were drawn from all parts of
the country (except the domain of leyasu),
and the work was completed in two years.
The palace thus raised within the castle
was probably the grandest building of
which Japan ever boasted. It survived the
taking of the castle by leyasu in 1615;
and in 1867 and 1868 the members of the
foreign legations were received within its
walls by the last of the Tokugawa Sho-
guns. Will Adams, in his quaint style,
gives a good idea of the splendour of the
palace and the extent of the city in his
day. He says : * I was carried in one of
* the King's gallies to the court at Omca,
* where the King lay about eightie leagues
* from the place where the shippe was.
* The twelfth of May 1600. I came to the
* great King's citie who caused me to be
* brought into the court, beeing a wonder-
* full costly house gfuilded with gold in
* abundance. . . . We found Ozaea
* to be a very great towne, as great as
284
Route 42, — Osaica and Neighbourhood.
* London •within the vralls,. with many
•• faire timl)er bridges of a great height,
* Beruing to pass ouer a riuer there as
* wide as the Thamen at London. Some
* faire houses we found there but not
* many. It is one of the chiefe sea-ports
* of all lapan ; hauing a castle in it, mar-
* ucUous large and strong, with very
* deepe trenches about it, and many draw
* bridges, with gates i)lated with yron.
* The castle is built all of free-stone, with
* >)ulwarks and battlements, with loope
* holes for smal shot and an-owes, and
* diners passages for to cast stones vpon
* the assaylants. The walls are at the
* least sixe or seuen yards thicke, all (as I
* said) of free-fttoue, without any filling in
* the inward part with trumpery, as they
* reported vnto me. The stones are great,
* of an excellent quarry, and are cut so
* exactly to fit the place where they are
* laid, that no morter is used, but onely
* earth cast betweene to fill vp voyd
* creuises if any ]>e.' Excluding the
])alace, this remains an excellent descrip-
tion of the place as it exists to-day. The
huge stones forming the walls of the
principal gate of the castle attest the
magnificent design of its founder. f>ut-
side the present fortress ran a second line
of moat and parapet, the destruction of
which was made a condition of peace by
leyasu after the first siege of 1614. The
moat varied in width from 80 yds. to 120
yds., and in depth from 12 ft. to 2J( ft.; but
it was completely effaced in about three
weeks* time. On the 2nd Feb., 1868, the
bnildings within the castle were set on fire
by a train laid by the Tokugawa party be-
fore their final retreat, and were comple-
tely destroyed in a few hours. The
fortifications now serve as the head-
i^uarters of the Osaka Military District,
and permission to inspect them may
generally l)e obtained by presenting a
visiting card at the principal entrance.
The view from the top of the platform, on
which stoo<l the donjon {fen»hu)f is very
fine. There is a remarkaj)le well here
called the Kimmei'inii, lit. * Famous Golden
Water,' which furnished a sufiicicnt sup- ,
ply for the garrison in time of siege.
The city of Osaka lies upon the banks of
the Yodogawa, the river draining Lake
Biwa. Nakanoshima, an island in the
■centre of the stream, divides the river
into two courses of alx)ut equal width.
The scene here on summer evenings is of
the gayest and prettiest description.
Hundreds of lK)ats float lazily upon the
water, filled with citizens, who resort
thither to enjoy the cool river breezes,
while itinerant musicians, vendors of
refreshments and fireworks, etc., ply
amongst the merry throng doing a thri-
ving business. ,The city is also intersected
))y numereus canals, which necessitate a
great number of bridges and give it an
appearance which may remind the tra-
veller of Holland. Osaka always suffers
to a greater degree than other cities in
the Empire from epidemics, prof)ably due
to contamination carried by so much water
communication. jThe three great bridges
across the Yodogawa are the Temma-
bashi, the Tenjin-bashi and the Naniwa^-
Imshi. The principal thoroughfare is th.e
Shinsai-bashi-suji, which its fine shops,
theatres, and bustling aspect renaer
one of the.most interesting streets, nofe
only in Osaka, but in Japan. In summei*
this street derives quite an Oriental ap-
pearance from the curtains stretchetl
across it to keep out the sun, and fmnai
the bright hues of many of the aiticles of
merchandise.
The Foreign Settlement is situated at
Kawaguchi, at the junction of two
streams. Close by are the Custom Houses,
and the wharves for the steamers that
ply between Osaka and Kdl)e, Shikokn,
and the ports of the Inland Sea. Osaka,
for all its bustle and prosperity, ha« not
fulfilled the expectations formed of it as a
centre of foreign trade. The affairs of the
foreign municipality are managed by a
committee constituted in the same way as
at Kobe.
The following are the chief places
of interest, beginning with those
nearest to the Tokaido Railway sta-
tion, and making the round of the
city. One day is suflftoient for the
whole.
The Mint {Zdhei-7cyoku)t about
20 min. in jinrikisha from the sta-
tion, is well-worth a visit. This
establishment was organised in 1871,
and placed under Major T. W.
Kinder, formerly of the Hongkong
Mint, with a staff of British
officials. The management has been
entirely Japanese since 1889. The
ISIint now produces almost exclu-
sively silver and copper coins.
The work was first started with
machinery purchased from the
Hongkong Government after the
Mint in that colony had been closed ;
but great additions have since been
made. Besides the Mint proper,
there are sulphuric acid works and
a refinery.
Tei^in Sama, on the N. side of the
river, not far from the Tenjin-bashi,
is a popular temple dedicated to Suga-
wara-no-Michizane, and founded in
the 10th century. The principal
festival is held on the 25th June.
The temple contains some good
carvings, and the ex-voto sheds
several pictures of merit. Crossing
Tennojl and other Temples,
285
"tlie river by the Tenjin-bashi and
proceeding S. for about 1 mile, we .
recbch
Kozn-iiO'iiiiya, on the hill to the
1., -which commands a fine view W.
over the town towards the Straits of
Atashi. This temple is dedicated to
the Emperor Nintoku, b. 278 A.D.
according to the received chronology.
In the florist's garden (Hyak-kwa-
-en) at the foot of the hill, the shows
of peonies at the latter end of April,
.and of chrysanthemmns about the
middle of November, are amongst
the finest in Japan.
The Ikiidaina no Jinja, a little
further S. up a flight of steps, is de-
•dicated to the patron deities of the
city, and is fabled to hAve been
founded by Jimmu Tenno on the
spot where the castle now stands.
Hideyoshi removed the temple to
its present site about the year 1596.
The view from the back Is the
same as from Kozu-no-miya. About
a mile further S. stands the cele-
brated Buddhist temple of
Tennoji, which occupies an im-
mense extent of ground on the S.E. of
the city. It was founded by the cele- I
brated Shotoku Taishi about A.D.
600, but has frequently fallen into
ruin, and been renovated at the
expense of either the Mikados or the
Shoguns. On entering the great south
gate, we find ourselves in a large
open space, the centre of which is
occupied by a square colonnade,
open on the inner side. On the r.
is a chapel called Taislii-dd, dedica-
ted to Shotoku Taishi. It is a build-
ing of unpainted wood, roofed with
thick shingles. Opposite to this is
. the Btdo no kane^ or * Bell of Lead-
ing,' which is rung in order that
the Saint-Prince may lead the
•dead into- Paradise. Dolls, toys,
and children's clothing are offered
up before it. Near the tortoise
pond to the r., is a building
containing a stone chamber with
water pourinjg into it from the
mouth of a stone tortoise. The
names of those who have recently
departed this life are written on
slips of thin bamboo, and held at the
end of a long stick in the sacred
stream, which also carries petitions
to Shotoku Taishi on behalf of the
souls of the dead.
From the gallery at the top of the
Igfty five-storied pagoda, the whole
city and surrounding country can
be seen. The Koncloy or Golden
Hall, is abput 54 ft. by 48 ft., and
the highly decorated shrine within
is dedicated to the Nyo-i;rin Kwan-
non. The image, which is of gilt cop-
per, is said to have been the first
Buddhist image ever brought to
Japan from Korea; but that
honour is also claimed by the triple
image of Amida, Kwannon, and
Daiseishi at Zenkoji in Shinshn.
Various treasures dating from the
7th and 8th centuries are preserved
at Tenno- ji.
Returning by the same streets to
the entrance of K6zu-no-Miya, and
going W., we soon find ourselves by
the side of the Dobombori canal, in
a street consisting chiefly of the- •
atres, variety shows, and restaurants.
This part of Osaka is cspecisJly
worth seeing in the evening. Turn-
ing to the r. at the Ebisu-bashi,.we
cross into the Shinsai-bashi-suji,
about half-way down which, a
little to the 1., stand the two
temples of the Hongwanji sect
of Buddhists. The first is the
Hi^nslii Hongwanji, built about
the year 1615. It contains some
fine massive open-work caiTings.
The Nislii Hongwanji is a few
hundred yards further north in the
same street. Its gateway is a
beautiful example of the application
of tlie chrysanthemum in tracery
and open-work carving. In the
central shrine is a statue of Amida
3 ft. 6 in. high, ^vith Shinran Sho-
nin on his 1., in a richly carved and
gilded shrine.
2. — Neighbourhood of Dsaka.
The principal places of interest in
the immediate neighbourhood of
Osaka are Sumiyoshi and Sakai,
both reached by the Hankai Bail-
286
Boiite 42, — Osaka and Neif/hboiirhood»
way. Trains run 'from either end
at intervals of 40 min. during the
day.
Hankai Railway.
£p «
2iiii.
e\
Names
of
Stations.
Remarks.
OSAKA (Namba).
Tenga-jaya.
Sumiyoslii
(Alight for
I temi)le.
RAKAI.
The Jarge embankment seen be-
tween Osaka and Tenga-jaya is that
of the Nara Bailway,
Tenga-jaya is so called because
Hideyoshi, when lord of the Em-
pire, had a villa there, which is
still maintained for the sake of its
historical associations. It stands in
a small grove visible to the 1. from
the carriage windows. The name
of this place is familiar to all
Japanese theatre-goers, as the scene
of a famous vendetta which is often
represented on the boards.. The en-
trance to the temple of Sumiyoshi
is passed just before reaching the
station of that name.
The Temple of Sumiyoslii, de-
dicated to the three gods of the sea
who, according to the legend in
the NiJwngi assisted the Empress
Jingo in her expedition to Korea, is
held in high veneration by the lower
classes of 6saka, great crowds flock-
ing to it on festival days (every
u-tw-liiy or * day of the hare '). Out-
side are innumerable stone lanterns
presented as ex-votos. In the pond
over which passes a semi-circular
bridge, live a number of tortoises
with water-weed growing on their
hacks. These are popularly known as
Tnino-gainey from viino the grass-coat
worn by peasants and boatmen in
rainy weather, and kamCj a tortoise.
The Yamato-gawa is crossed near
its mouth before entering
Sakni (Inns, Bokai-rO, Satsuma-
ya), a large manjufacturing centre >
Its fine beach lined with tea-liouses-
attracts many visitors from Osaka,
during the summer months. Tlio
lofty chimneys are those of bricks
coke, and silk factories.
Sakai takes its name from its position
close to the boundary of the three pro-
vinces of Iznmi, Settsu, and Kawach i,
having been originally called Sakui-no-
tfiu, that is, • Boundary Harbour.* Until
the end of the 14th century, when a for-
tress was built here by Yamana Ujikiyo,
it was a mere village. The manufactur©-
of hard-ware, carpets, and cosmetic
powder are the principal industries.
Konishi Tsu-no-kami, one of Hideyoslii'i*
most distingviished officers and an early-
convert to Christianity, was bom in thia-
town, where his forefathers for several
generations had carried on the business
of druggists. Another equally celebrated
native of Sakai was Sen-no-RikyU, a great
favourite with Hideyoshi, and often rer
garded as the father of the tea-drinking-
ceremonial {cha-no-i/n). In the 16th cen-
tury Sakai wns one of the most flourishing^
of the Roman Catholic mission stations,
and is frequently mentione<l by the Jesuits
and other early writers. Will Adams thus-
describea it : * Right over against Ozactt,
on the other side of the riuer, lyeth an-
other great Towne called Saceif, but not so-
bigge as Ozacuy yet is it a towne of great
trade for all the Hands thereabout.*
At the Monastery of Myokokuji,
belonging to the Nichiren sect, are
some fine specimens of the sotetsit
(Cycas revoluta)y often erroneously
called the sago-palm. They were
planted here by Miyoshi Jikyu
about the middle of the 16th
century. leyasu carried the best
away to his own residence in 1582,
but finding that it refused to
flourish there, restored it to its
home. It is popularly believed that
this plant, the name of which
means * revival by iron,' is much
benefited by that metal, and the
earth round its roots is covered
with iron coins thrown, there by
visitors. The warm climate of Sakai
seems particularly favourable to the
sotetsUf which is not indigenous to
Japan.
In the front court of this temple are
buried eleven warriors of the Tosa claa
who were condemned to disembowel them-
selves for having shot down the same
number of unarmed French sailors in the
spring of 1868. It must b^ remembered
©
llotUe 43. — Kyoto.
28T
ibat tLia form of capital punishment,
barbarous as it may seem to Kurt)peans,
fras at that time recogniised as a privilege
of the mmurai class, auil preferred by them
to simple decapitation.
The sanctum in the main building
is handsome. On the S.E . of the town
is the Burial'inound (misasagi) of
Nintoku Tennoj a double tumulus.
The northern summit is 84 ft., the
southern 100 ft. high, and the cir-
cuit of the base measures 1,526
yds. It is surrounded by a double
moat, and in the immediate neigh-
bourhood are nine smaller tumuli.
ROUTE 43.
Kyoto.
SlfVIBOXS : IWASHIMIZU, Atago-
YAMA, Rapids op the Katsura-
OAWA, Uji.
Kyoto, 'also called Siiikyo.
Hotels. — * Kyoto Hotel, also called
Tokiwa, in Kawara-machi ; * Yaami,
line view ; Nakamura-3'a, also called
Kiken-jaya.
Japanese Inns. — Ikesho, Kashi-
wa-tei, in Kiyamachi; Chakyii,
near E. end of SanjO Bridge.
Japanese Restatirants. — Takemu-
la, Hachishin.
Religious Services. — Presbyterian ,
every Sunday morning in the li-
brary of the Doshisha ; Koman Ca-
tholic Church, close to the Kyoto
Hotel.
Tficatres and other places of
amusement, in bhiu Kydgoku ; two
theatres'in Shi jo Kawa-Higashi.
Telegraph and Post Office, in San-
jo-dori Higashi-no-Toin.
Kyoto is noted for its pottery and
porcelain, its embroideries, cut vel-
vets, and brocades, its bronzes, and
its cloisonmfs. The following shops
may be recommended : —
Pottery and Porcelain. — Kinko-
zan, at Awata, where manufacture
on a large scale for export is carried
on ; Nishida, at Gojo-zaka. There-
are many other manufacturers and
dealers in Kiyomizu and at Gojo-
zaka, but they work mostly on &
^all scale.
m^ Embroidery, Velvets, andMercei^j^
z^— Takashima-ya,Orimqno-GwaislMi,'''
^Nishimura, Dai-maru, Ono (in Karar
su-maru Shichijo).
Bronze, Cloisonne, and other Metal-
Work. — Shojodo (Jomi), in Tera-
machi Shijo-sagaru ; Kanaj'a Go-
rosa; ^^iABlika^va, at Shirakawa-
bashi {cloisonne only).
Curios (especial bronze, cloisonne,.
and porcelain) . — Boeki-Gwaisha,.
Kyiikyodo, Takada, and Hayashi,
at Furumon-zen ; Ikeda, at Shiin- .
monzen. The street called Manjuji-
dori is almost entirely occupied
by curio-dealers of the more old-
fashioned sort.
Lacquer. — Nishimura, in Tera-
machi.
Bamboo-Work. — Wada, in Kiya-
machi.
Fans and Toys. — Nishida, at Higa-
shi-no-Toin Shichi-jo ; Misaki iu
Shichi-jo-dori Yanagi-no-Baba.
The Mikado's Palaces (Gosho
and Nijd no Riki/u), together with
th6 Imperial villas (Katstira no
Rikyu and" Shugaku-in), are un-
fortunately no longer open to the
general public. Permits can be ob-
tained only by visitors of distinc-
tion, and ty those bearing personal
recommendations to the Minister
representing their countr}-. The
same permit admits to all four, and
none who are so favoured should
omit to make use of the privilege,
at least to the extent of visiting the
two Palaces. Kyoto's other greatest
sights are the San-ju-san-g»in-du,
Nishi Hongwanji, Kiyomizu, Gion»
and Chion-in temples, in addition
to >yliich at least one of the cele-
brated landscape gardens — say
Kinkakuji or Ginkakuji — should ba
visited, as tlicy are among the most
characteristic products of Japanese
estheticism. The best general view
of Kyoto is to be obtained from a
hill called Shogun-zuka close to
r288
Route 43, — Kyoto.
lilaruyama on tlie E. side of the
city, 1^ hr. excursion from the
Kyoto Hotel. IMaruyama itself,
Kiyomizu-dera, and the Yasaka
Pagoda also afford good general
views.
No one visiting KySto at the
proper season should fail to see the
Miyako-odot'iy a kind of ballet given
every evening from 5 to 11 o'clock
at Hcmaini-kdjij near the Gion-za
Theatre, entrance 50 sc?i, 1st class.
The performances generally begin
in mid- April, and last till early in
June. Furthermore, no one having
money in his purse should fail to
visit the shops, which are perhaps
the most attractive in Japan.
Though a superficial acquaintance
with Kyoto may be gained in a couple
•of days, at least a week is necessary
to form an adequate idea of its mani-
fold beauties. Owing to the gradual
shrinking of the city in modern times,
many of the best sights are some
distance away in the country and
much time is spent in going from one
to another by jinrikisha. The follow-
ing is offered as a sketch of the
order in which the various sights of
Kyoto may best be visited. Care-
ful sightseers will scarcely be able
to see all that we have crowded into
one day for the guidance of such as
are pressed for time ; but they can
resume next day at the point where
they left off, as the order follows re-
gularly round the points of the
compass, beginning with the north
central portion of the city : —
1st Day. — The Mikado's Palace,
— even a passing glance at the
exterior is better than nothing —
Kitano Tenjin, Hirano Jinja, Dai-
tokuji, the Shinto shrine of Ota
Nobunaga, Kinkakuji, Toji-in, Omu-
ro Goslio (if rebuilt and open to the
public, which is doubtful, as it now
ranks among the Imperial Palaces),
Uzumasa, Seiryuji, Arashi-yama.
2nd Day.— The NijO Palace (the
exterior in any case), Katsura-no-
Rikyii, Toji, the Inari temple at
Fushimi, Tofukuji, San-ju-san-gen-
do, Daibutsu.
3rd Day. — Kenninji, Nishi Otani,
Kiyomizu-dera, the Yasaka Pagoda,
Kodaiji, Shdgun-zuka, Maruyama,
Higashi Otani, Gion, Chion-in, tlie
Awata Palace.
4th J)ay. — Xanzenji, Eikwando,
Kurodani, Shinny odo, the temple
of Yoshida, Ginkakuji, Shimo-
Gamo, Kami-Gamo, Shugaku-in (for
those provided with the necessary
permit).
5th Day. — Iwashimizu.
6th Day. — Atago-yama.
7th Day. -^ -The Rapids of the
i Katsura-gawa.
8th Day. — Uji.
9th Day. — Hiei-zan.
Hiittory and Topofjraphy. — From the
"earliest ages, the seat of the Mikado's
rule was genei-ally in the province of
Yamato ; but o\\-inK to the ancient custom,
of not continuing to inhabit the house of &
deceased parent, the actual site was
usually changed at the commencement of
each reign. At the beginning of the Sth.
century the capital was established at
Nara, where it remained until A.D. 78#,
when the reigning sovereign Kwamma
moved to Nagaoka, a spot at the foot of
the hills alxnit half-way l)etween Yama-
zaki and ArHshi-yama in the province of
Yamashiro. In 793, he selected a fresh.
site at the village of Uda in the same
province, and ti-ansfen-ed his Court thi-
ther towards the end of the following year.
In order to conciliate fortune, he is said
to have be8towe<l on his new capital the
name of Heian-jo, or the City of Peace ; but
this never came into use as the common
designation of the cjty, which was spoken
of as Miyako or Kyoto, the former being
the Japanese, the latter the Chinese word
for ' capital city.' When first laid out,
the site measured nearly 3 ra. from E. to
"W*., and about 3f, m. from N. to S. The
Palace, which occupied about one-fifteenth
of the area, was' situated in the centre of
the N. side, and a fine street 280 ft. wide
led from the gieat gute down to the 8.
gate of the city. Nine wide streets, called
Ichi-j6, Ni-jO,\San-jo, and so <m up to Ku-
jo, intersected the city from E. to W., the
widest of those measuring itO ft., the
nari'owest somewhat less than half.
Similar streets crossing them at right
angles ran from N. to S., and l)etween
them at ecpial distances were lanes each
40 ft. in width. A double ditch, backed
by a low wall with a gate at the cud of
each princiiial street, sunxjunded the.
whole of this huge square. In 1177
the Palace was destroyed by fire, and
three years later the seat of govern-
ment wiis removed l)y the all-powerfnl
Minister Kiyomori to Fukuwara, the
Tlie Milcado's Palace,
289
modem town of Ilyogo. The Court, how-
ever, soon returned to Kyoto, where it re-
mained stationary until 186S, Both the
city and the Palace have repeatedly fallen
a prey to the flames, and as often been
rebnllt, as far as possible in the original
style. The preseut Palace was built after
the great fire of 1854. Since the founda-
tion of Yedo in 1590, Kyoto gradually
declined in size and im])ortahce. Its
population is only half of what the city is
estimated to have hold during the Middle
Ages; and from Shichi-jo-dori south-
wards, wh^t once were busy tliorough-
fares are now laid out in market gai-dens.
Kyoto stands on the Kamogawa, which,
for the gieater part of the year, is a mere
rivulet meandering over a wide pebl^ly
bed. On the 1. bank of the river are the
suburbs of Awata and Kiyomizu. The
town of Fushimi to the S. may also he
"accounted a suburb. The chief modem
addition to the topography of Kyoto is,
besides the line of railway, the Lake
Biwa Canal which connects the neigh-
bouring large lake with the Kamogawa,
as de8cril)ed in Route 44.
The nomenclature of the Kyoto streets,
apparently complicated, is in reality
quite simple, beingjfounded on a reference
to the points of tlie compass and to the
Ihj of the land which is slightly higher on
the N. than on the y. Thus the expres-
sion SAi/o-rfo/'i Teramachi Jiiganthi iini dig-
nifies that portion of the Shi Jo or Fourth
Thorouehfare which lies a little to the E.
of the East and West intersection of that
thoroughfare by Teramachi. Teramachi-
d9ri Shij6 mgarii signifies the portion of
the North and South Thoroughfare called
Teramachi lying a little to the South of
the intersection of that thorouehfare by
Shijo-dori, the term mgurn, to 'descend,'
being naturally applied to the South, as
agaittt * to ascend, is to the North. The
lanes mentioned higher u]) are called Ko/i,
whence such addresses as Teramachi-dOri
Ane-ga-KOfi, which means, ' Ane JJane off
the Teramachi Thoroughfare.'
Some curious artificial scars or clearings
will ]je observed on carefully scanning
some of the pine-clad hills near the city.
In these clearings it is that bonfli-es are
lighted every 18th August at the close of
the Bon festival (Feast of Lanterns). The
most conspicuous of these marks is what
is called the Ifai Moujiy or ' Chinese cha-
racter for Great,'' which is written thus,
3^. It is situated to the N.E. of the city.
To the N»W. is the Ilidari Dai Monji, or
'Character for Great reversed,' thus 5^»
the difference between the two, though
slight to European eyes, being instantly
perceptible to any Japanese. There are
several more of these marks which the
guide will point out.
The Mikado's Palnoe -(Gfos/io).
This large mass of buildings covers
an area of nearly 26 acres. It is
confined within a roofed wall of
earth and plaster, commonly called
the Mi Tsuijiy and has six gates.
The open space between the wall and
the Palace was formerly covered
with other lesser buildings in which
the Kiigcy or Court Nobles, resided^
It is now cleared and open to the
public, and in the S. E. corner of it
is a Bazaar (Hahubutsu-kwan) open
every year in spring.
Visitors are now admitted inta
the Palace through the Mi Daido-
ko7-o Gomon, or Gate of the August
Kitchen, and are first shown into
an ante-chamber where they sigu
their names tn the Palace book.
From there they are led into the
Selryodeiiy or Pure and Cool Hall.
It is so c died from a small brook which
runs under the steps. The foreign visitor
to these Japanese palaces will proliably
think the tenn ' cool '—not to say ' chilly '
and • draughty '—most Hppropriate. Splen-
did as is the art displayed, no attem]>t
was ever made towards heating or towards
anything which we should call comfort.
The Seirybdcn faces E., and mea-
sures 63 f t.'by 46^ ft. Originally thi».
suite of apartments was the ordinary
residence of the sovereign ; but in
later times it was used only on the
occasion of levees and important
Shinto festivals, such as the worship
of the Four Quarters on the morning
of New Year's day. In one corner
the floor is made of cement, on
which earth was strewn every morn-
ing, so that the Mikado could worship
his ancestors on the earth without
descending to the ground. The
papered slides are covered with ex-
tremely formal paintings by Tosa
Mitsukiyo. Observe the Mikado's
throne, a sort of catafalque witk
exquisite silk curtains of white ^
red, and black, the actual seat
being a fine mat. The wood of this,
as of all the buildings, is chamsecy-
paris (hiiioki), the same species
as is used for the construc-
tion of Shinto temples. The crest
everywhere displayed is the sixteen-,
petalled chrysanthemum. The roof-
ing is of the kind termed hiwada-
btiki — a kind of thick shingling —
290
lioiite 43. — Kyoto,
tiles appearing only on the very
ridge. The empty sanded courts,
tlie white plaster, and the red pillars
•of the walls give to the Palace a pe-
culiar aspect of solemnity, almost
of oppressiveness. Everything, even
down to minutise, had its name, its
function, and was never changed.
For instance, the two clumps of bam-
boo in front of the Seiryddcn have
each a name handed down from
hoary antiquity, one being the Kan-
-chikUj the other the Go-chikUy appel-
lations derived from Kan and Go,
two kingdoms in ancient China.
From the Seiryoden the visitor is
conducted to the Shisliindeny which
faces S. and measures 120 ft. by 63^
ft.
The narae Shi-nhin-deM-ifi explained as
follows: nhi is purine, the tnie colour of
the sky or heaveuH; »hiu denotes that
which is mysterious and hidden from the
vuljrar paze ; den is simply * hall.' This
buildiuf? was used for the enthronement
of the Mikado, for the New Year's Audi-
ence, and other impoilaut ceremonies.
The large paintings in the panels
of this hall represent Chinese sages.
The originals were painted in A.D.
888 by the famous Kose-no-Kanao-
ka ; but they were destroyed long ago,
and the present pictures are merely
copies of copies. The throne (Mi
Chodaijy though quite modem, is
interesting. The stools on either
side of it are intended for the Im-
perial Insignia, — the sword and the
jewel. The pattern on the silken
curtains is meant to represent the
bark of an aged pine-tree. Observe
tliat the Mikado sat on a chair in
this instance, as did all those here
admitted to an audience. A flight
of 18 steps leads down into the
court. These correspond in number
to the original series of grades into
which the Mikado's officials were
divided. Those who were not entitled
to stand on the lowest step were
c&Wedji-gej or 'down on the earth,'
to distinguish them ^rom the tcn-jd-
biiOy or * persons who ascend into the
•hall.' On the 1. is a cherry-tree
called Salion no sdkura. When the
Emperor Kwammu first built the
palace, he planted a plum-tree In
this position ; but it withered away,
and the Emperor Nimmyo (834 to
850) replaced it by a cherry-tree.
The present one was transplanted
hither thirty years ago. On the r.
side is the Ukon no tachibana, a
wild orange-tree, also a relic of an-
cient custom.
Snl-on and Ukon were the names of
ancient ranks, and the application of
them to these trees may be compared
to the knighting of the Sirloin of Beef by
Charles II.
A corridor leads from the Shishin-
den to the O GakumwijOj or Im-
perial Study, where the Mikado's
tutors delivered lectures, and where
courts were held for the cultivation
of poetry and music. The decora-
tion of the sliding screens in this
suite calls for special notice. Most
of the rooms, as will be noticed by
those acquainted with the Japanese
language, take their names from
the subjects delineated in them. The
wild geese in the Gati no Ma are by
Benzan (Gantoku), d. 1869; the
screens of the Yamabnhi 7io Ma are
by Maruyama Oryu; the chrysan-
themums in the Kiktc no Ma, by
Okamoto Sukehiko. The three
rooms which form the audience
chamber, called respectively Gedan^
Cliudatif and Jodan^ are decorated
with Chinese scenes. The wooden
doors in the corridor are by Sho-
mura Ryusho, Yoshida Kokin, Hara
Nankei, and Murakami Seiju.
North of the Imperial study, in a
building measuring 57 ft. by 83 ft.,
and facing S.towards a small separate
court, is a' suite of rooms called the
On Mi Ma (August Three Rooms).
Here were held private audiences,
and the Kb performances (a kind of
lyric drama) were witnessed at a
distance by the Mikado seated on
the upper floor or jbdan. The No
stage is under a separate roof, and
cut off from the suite by a high
paling, which was removed when a
performance took place. The de-
corations of the rooms are in tho
Tosa style.
Mikado's Palace. Doshisha. Kitano Tenjin.
291
The last suite of apartments to
which visitors are now generally
admitted is the Tstine Goteuy or
Usual Besidence of the Mikados,
•consisting of 11 rooms, which, from
the 13th century onward, formed the
place in which generations of Mika-
dos lived and died. The centre
room of the suite facing E. was His
^Iajesty*s ordinary sitting-room, the
four on the N. being occupied by his
female attendants. At the W. end
of this suite was the Mdshi no kuchif
literally * Opening for Speech,' where
men who had business with Hi3
Majesty stated their errand to the
women, who then transmitted it to
the Mikado. The Imperial bedroom
%vas behind the sitting-room, and
entirely surrounded by the other
apartments, so that no one could
get near His Majesty without the
knowledge of his immediate at-
tendants. Beyond the Tsune Goten
lie the Ndiyoden^ or Palace for
Enjoj'ing the Cool Air, which was
reserved for the Iklikado's private
pleasures, and the Kita Goten, or
Northern Palace, containing the
apartments of the Heir Apparent.
There were formerly also palaces
for the Empress, Empress Dowager,
and Princesses, besides various other
buildings now destroyed or removed.
For instance, the Kashiko-dohoi'Of
or Fearful Place, in which is pre-
served the sacred mirror of the Sun-
Goddess, has been transferred bodily
to Jimmu Tenno's mausoleum in
the province of Yamato.
The large white building in foreign
style, noticed on the hill r. on
quitting the Palace, is the Dosliisha,
a Christian University founded in
1876 under the auspices of the Ame-
rican Board lilission. Intimately
connected with its success is the
name of the Rev. Joseph Neeshima,
one of the most eminent of the early
Japanese converts to Presbyteri-
anism. This flourishing institution
now includes a special Theological
Department, a Girls' School, a
Science School, a Hospital, and a
Nurses' Training School.
Kitnno Teiyin is a temple dedi-
cated to Tenjin Rama (see p. 32),
by which latter name indeed it is
generally known. Entering through
the great stone torii on the S., we
find tea-houses, and stone lanterns
presented by votaries of the god. A
small two-storied gate-house, gaudily-
decorated in colours, forms the
entrance to the temple enclosure.
It is called the San-kd no Mon, or
Gate of the Three Luminaries, i.e.
the Sun, Moon, and Stars, from re-
presentations of those heavenly
bodies which may be distinguished
with much difficulty among the
carvings on the beams of the gate-
way. The oratory, built by Hide-
yori in 1607, forms the N. side of a
square, the other three sides being
colonnades, with the Gate of the
Sun, Moon, and Stars on the S.
Its dimensions are 58 ft. by 24 ft.
The cornice is decorated with colour
in the style prevalent at that period.
The chapel behind, 38^ ft. by 32^ ft.>
.is separated from the oratory by a
chamber paved with stone, having
its roof at right angles to the roofs
of the oratory and chapel. Behind
is the Jinushino YashirOj or Temple
of the Lord of the Soil, said to have
been founded in A. D. 836, and
numerous other small chapels. The
treasury is built of wooden beams,
the section of each beam being a
right-angled triangle with the right
angle outside, a form of construction
much followed in this portion of
Japan. East of the colonnade are
the kagura stage and the building
in which the god's car (mikoshi) is
kept. The temple was founded ori-
ginally by adherents of the Byobu
Shinto sect, and is still an excellent
specimen of the style of that variety
of Shinto, which is much mixed
with Buddhism and miscellaneous
popular superstitions. The num-
berless stone lanterns, the stone and
metal bulls (offered up here because
Tenjin is said to have ridden on one
of those animals), the ex-voto shed
(ema-dd) with its grotesque pictures,
the elaborately carved and painted
292
Route 43, — K I/O to.
gate-ways, the swaying lanterns — all
testify to a form of worship of the
baser popular sort. One of the
queerest features of the main build-
ing is a sot of framed pictures of
^the Thirty-Six Cieniuses of Poetry,
made of woven stuffs, which have
been recently presented by the
manufacturers, and thus servo' as
an advertisement.
Pictures of the Thirty-Six Geniuses of
Poetrj' are amonj? the usutil atlorumonts
of Shinto temples.
Hirniio Jinju. This temple de-
serves passing notice, as a good
example of a place of worship
rebuilt according to the architec-
tural canons of *pure Shinto.' The
oratory is an open shed hung with
pictures representing the Thirty-
Six Genuises of Poetry. Beyond it
are five chapels — two pairs con-
nected by a watch-room, and one
detached. They are dedicated to
minor Shinto deities. The annual
festival is held on the 2nd May.
The cherry-trees in the grounds are
much visited during the season of
blossom, especially at night. They
are of many varieties, and each tree
has some fanciful, poetical name.
Dftitokiiji.
Daitokuji, belonjring to the Zen sect of
Buddhists, was foimtled by Daito Koku-
Bbi, an ablxjt of the early part ot the 14th
century, to whom, as to so many others,
a miraculous birth and prec(X?ious wisdom
are ascrilied. The manner of his concep-
tion is said to have l)een that his mother
dreamt oie nij^ht that a wild proose came
flying towards her with an open blossom
in its beak, and that soon afterwards she
found herself to be with child.
This once magnificent temple still
merits a visit on account of its
stately proportions. One of its gates
— the Hignrashi no Mwiy so called
because a day might be spent in
examining its carvings — should be
specially noted; also the fine gilt
image of Shaka in the Garan-do.
Daitokuji is celebrated for the
treasures stored away in its godowns.
Kg temple in Japan, so it is averred,
possesses an equally large number
of valuable kakeinonos. Though
most of the best pieces are thus
hidden from view, the Apartments
richly deserve the careful scrutiny of
all persons interested in Japanese
pictorial art. The entire set of sliding
doors (fnsnvia) dividing room from
room were painted by Kano Tan-jxi,
from whose brush also are folding
screens representing scenery in
China, the four seasons, children at
play, etc. A pair of screens with
spleiididly coloured peacocks is
by Okyo ; others by Kano Tanshin
depict popular occupations and
trades. The sepia drawing by Tan-
yvi of a man making a monkey
dance, which occupies one wall of
the innermost room, is particularly
famous. An interesting old portrait
bust in wood represents Ota Nobu-
naga.
The Shinto shrine of Ota Nobu-
liagai, on the slope of Funaoka-yania»
is prettily situated near Daitokuji.
The summit of the hill, which can
be reached in a couple of minutes^
commands a beautiful panorama of
the city and surrounding country.
This temple was built in 1880 by private-
admirers of the hero, who is now wor-
shipped as a Shinto gotl.
Khiknknji, more properly Boku-
onjl, a monastery of the Zen sect,
takes its popular name from the
Ji'in-kakUy or * golden pavilion,' in the
grounds attached to it.
In 1397, Ashikaga Yoshimitsu, who had
tliree years previously surrendered the
title of Shogun to his youthful son Yoshi-
m(K'hi, obtained this place from its fonner
owner, and after extending the grounds,
built himself a palace to sei-ve nominally
as a retreat from the world. Here he
shaved his head, and assumed the garb
of a Buddhist monk, while still continuing
in reality to direct the affairs of state.
The garden is beautifully laid out.
In the middle is a lake with pine-
clad shores and pine-clad islets,
whose quiet charm none would
expect to find so close to a large
metropolis. The lake is stocked
with carp, which, when visitors
appear there, crowd together at the
stage below the Pavilion, in ex-
pectation of being fed. All the
palace buildings have disappeared.
The Pavilion alone remains, much
Kinkakiiju Tdji- in .
29B
dunined by age. It stands on the
water's edge, facing S., and is a
three-storied building, 33 ft. by
24 ft. In the lower room are a
seated effigy of Yoshimitsu in shaven
pate and priestly garb, and gilt
statuettes of Amida, Kwannon, and
Selshi, by the carver Unkei. In the'
second storey is a small Kwannon in
an. imitation rock-work cave, with
the Shi-Tenno.
The paintings on the ceiling by
Kano Masanobu are now* scarcely
recognisable. The third storey was
completely gilt, the gold being laid
on thickly over varnish composed of
bone powder and lacquer upon
hempen cloth. The ceiling, walls,
and floor were thus treated ; and
even the frames of the sliding
screens, the railing of the balcony,
and the small projecting rafters
which form the roof of the balcony,
were, as a careful examination will
show, covered with the precious
metal. Nearly all the gold has
disappeared, but the original wood-
work is complete, with the excep-
tion of a few boards that have been
put in to replace some that had
decayed. The effect, now so dingy,
must have been dazzlingly beauti-
ful. On the top of the roof stands
a bronze phoenix 3 ft. high, also
formerly gilt.
The large hill seeif to the r. fro m
the third storey of the Pavilion is
Kinukasa-yama.
This name means Silk Hat Mountain,
and was given in allusion to the incident
of the ex-Mika'lo Uda having ordered it
to be spread wibh white silk on« hot day
in July, in order that his eyes at least
might enjoy a cool wintry, sensation.
The guide will probably wish to
lead the traveller round the grounds
at the back of the Pavilion, where
Yoshimitsu's footsteps and doings
are tracked with minute care, — the
place where His Highness drank
tea, the place whence the water for
his tea came, the place where he
washed his hands, etc.; but these
can have little interest for any but
a Japanese. The ApartmentSj on
the other hand, deserve careful in-
spection, on account of the sliding
screens which they contain by Kano
Tan-yii and Jakuchu, of the folding
screens by Korin and Soami, of the
numerous kakemonos by Shubun,
Eishin, Okyo, Korin, Sesson, and
other celebrated artists, notably two
by Cho Densu representing the
three religious teachers Confucius,
Ghwang Tzu, add Buddha, besides
various relics and autographs of
the Ashigawa Shoguns and other
illustrious personages. The priest
who shows all these treasures tjo
visitors, sometimes ends up by treat-
ing them to tea in the clia-no-yu
style.
Toji-in, founded by Ashikaga
Takauji in the 14th century, will
interest the historical student as
containing effigies of nearly all the
Shoguns of the Ashikaga dynasty,
beginning with Takauji in the centre
chamber, a lacquered wooden seated
figure in the court-robe called
kari-ginu, with the courtier's wand
(shakii) in the r. hand, and wearing
a tall black court cap (taka-cboshi).
Opposite to him is leyasu (of the
Tokugawa dynasty). In the next
room are, beginning at the 1., t(2)
Yoshinori, (4) Yoshimochi, (6) Yo-
shinori II., (8) Yoshimasa, (10) Yo-
shizumi, and (12) Yoshiteru. The
other room contains the effigies
of (3) Yoshimitsu, (7) Yoshikatsu,
who died at the age of ten, (9)
Yoshinao, (11) Yoshitane, (13)
Yoshiharu, a degenerate-looking,
dwarfish man, and (15) Yoshiaki,
fat and sensual in appearance. Most,
if not all, may be looked on as con-
temporary portraits of the men they
represent. Observe that in their
time (14th, 15th, and 16th centuries),
the Japanese fashion was to wear a
moustache and small pointed beard.
The Apartments of this monastery
also contain various kakemonos by
Kano Tan-yu and other famous
tThe numbers in brackets refer to the
order of each in the dynasty to which
they all belonged.
294
Route 43. — Kyoto,
artists. The sliding screens in
' sepia are all by Kano Sanraka.
Those round one of the rooms de-
pict the acts of devotion of the
Four-and-Twenty Paragons of Filial
Piety.
During the i)eriod of fermentation which
preceded the restoration of the Mikado's
authority, it was the fashion among the
opponents of the feudal regime to load
the memory of the Ashikaga Phoguns
with the insults that could not
safely be offered in a direct manner to
those of the Tokugawa line ; and one
morning in April, 1863, the peojjle of
Kyoto woke to find the heads of the
effigies of Takauji, Yoshinori, and Yoshi-
m^itsu pilloried in the dry bed of the
Kamogawa at the spot where it was
then usual to expose the heads of the
worst criminals. Several of the men con-
cerned in this affair wei-e thrown into
prison, whence they where transferred to
the custody of certain Daimyos, and not
released for some years afterwards.
Myosliinji is a large temple of
the Zen sect, founded by Kwanzan
Kokushi, an abbot of the 14th
century.
Oiuuro Goslio, also called Ninnaji,
is a monastery founded towards the
end of his life by the ISIikado Koko.
In A.D. 899 the ex-Mikado Uda chose it
as his place of retirement, and occupied the
palace built for him here from 901 until his
death in 93 1 . In 890 A decree was issued con-
stituting Ninnnji a residence for 'descen-
dants of the M ik»ido,' or 3fomeki, as they are
culled, a term applied extensively m later
years to monasteries founded to pro-
vide the miscellaneous Imperial offspring
with homes, and also conferred as a title of
distinetion upon abbots of other than Im-
perial blood . The Mikado Shu jaku entered
the priesthood in 952, and took up liis re-
sidence here, but no other ex-sovereign
ever occupied it. Up to 1868 there had
been thirty three successive priest-princes,
the last of whom was the present Prince
Higashi Fushimi.
Burnt to the gi-ound in 1887, this
monastery, now counted among the
Imperial summer palaces, is Ijeing
rebuilt (1891) in a suitably orna-
mental style, aud will doubtless,
when finished, be well-worth a visit.
The grounds, which are spacious,
show to best advantage during the
season of the cherry-blossoms. There
is a fine five-storied pagoda, which,
with a few other of the lesser build-
ings, escaped the fire.
Half a ri beyond Omuro Goslio
lies l^akao-zail, celebrated for its
Momiji-yama^ or * maple mountain,'
on one side of a romantic glen.
There is a tea-house oh the top wifcti
a delightful prospect.
Uziiitiftsa, more properly called
Koryujij stands far out of the city at
the end of the Nijo street. ^
This verj- ancient Buddhist temple is said
to have been founded in A.D. 604 by Sho-
toku Taishi, who consecrated it to certain
Buddhist gods whose images had been.
brought from Korea. The principal edi-
fice, called the ;K6do, was, however, not
erected before 836, and this having been
burnt down about 1150, the present stmo-
ture was built out of timber saved from
the flames. The other buildings are of
much later date— 17th and 18th centuries
—and arc now (1891) undergoing repairs.
This temple will have special
attraction for the student of Japa-
nese statuary, which can nowhere,
except at Nara, be studied in such a
multitude of very early specimens.!
Most of them are about life-size or
else half . life-size. The most in-
teresting of these wooden statues is
one of Shotoku Taishi at the age
of thirty-three, said to have been
carved by himself. It is clad in a
silken robe of imperial yellow, pre-
sented by the Mikado at ,his ac-
cession, in accordance with ancient
custom. In its r. hand the image
holds the courtier's w^and, in its 1.
a censer. Besides the yellow robe,
it wears wide trowsers of white silk
damask and a black court hat. The
features have a very natural ex-
pression, but the paint on the
face has become discoloured by
time. In the temporary hondb are
the Buddhist images from Korea.
The most important of these is
a gilt wooden figure of Nio-i-rin
Kwannon, about 3 ft. high, seated
upon a stool, the r. foot lifted and
laid on the 1. knee, the 1. hand
tHe will of course remember that many
of these, though called Japanese, are
either Korean or else carved under the
instruction of Korean teachers. See the
very interasting opening pages of Ander-
son's ' Catalogue of Japanese and Chinese
Paintings in the British Maseom.'
Uzwnasa. Araahl-yama, Xijo Paluce,
295
Testing on the r. foot. The face is
supported on two long fiugers of the
r. hand. Drapery formal. The
hair is drawn hack from the fore-
head, and tied in a knoh at the top.
The features are perfectly natural,
•and wear a pensive expression. The
hands are heautifully modelled, the
arms rather thia, though showing
a good idea of form ; hut the feet
have recently been restored in a
•clums}* manner. The gold has been
nearly all rubbed off. Round the
shrine are the * Twelve Divine
Generals' (Ju-ni-ten), who so fre-
■quently accompany the god Yakushi,
•of which latter there is an imago
dating from the 9th century. A
curious feature is a box about 1^ ft.
square, containing no less than
1,000 microscopic images of Jizo
{Sen-tai Jizo).
Saga no Sliaka-do, more popular-
ly called Seirj/ujiy is a large temple of
tlie Jodo sect of Buddhists, to which
lads and girls 13 years old make a
pilgrimage on the isth day of the 3rd
month in order to obtain wisdom —
^ pilgrimage which goes by the
name of the jii-san-Diairi. The pre-
sent building is about two centuries
•old. Behind the altar, is a magnifi-
cently gilt shrine of Shaka, with
painted carvings presented by the
mother of lemitsu, third Shogun of
the Tokugawa dynasty. On the
doors being opened, a curtain is
■drawn up, which discloses another
set of doors, gilded and painted, and
then a second curtain splendidly
-embroidered. R. and 1. are seated
images of Monju and Fugen.
r
The imaffc of Shaka is said to be Indian,
*tid to have Ijeen executed fnwn life V)y
tbe scuii)tor Bishukatsuma (Vishvakar-
man), but it lias more the appearance
■«if a ("hinese work. Choneu, a monk of
Toilfliji at Nara, is said to have Ininijjfht
it over in the year 987. Accoi-ding
to the legfend, it was carved when
Shaka Muni w^as absent iu the heaven
■failed Tosotsu-Ten ( Tmthita ), preach-
ing to his mother, during? which time
lug diKciplcs mourned over his absence.
Kinjf Uten (Udayana) ,gave red saudal-
wootl fi*om his stores, 'and the saint's
\K)rtrait having been drawn from memory
hy Mokuren ( Maudgalyuyana ), the
sculptor went to w^ork and speedily com-
pleted the statue, which was placed in the
monastery of (rion Shoja (the JetavajMw
Vihiira). On the return of Shaka after
an absence of 90 days, the image
descended the steps to meet him, and
they entered the monastery together.
Arashi-yaiua is a picturesque
gorge up the_ River Katsura, here
called the Oigawa, and higher
up the Hozugawa. The hills are
everj^where covered with j)ine-trees.
There are also plantations of cherry-
trees, brought from Yoshino in the
13th century by the Emperor Kame-
yama, and of maple-trees which
add greatly to the natural beauty of
the spot in spring and autumn. The
place boasts some good tea-liou£es,
especially the Nakamura-ya and
Hototogisu. The raffs seen on the
river bring down timber from the
province of Tamba. Hard by, in
the vill. of Saga, is Tcnryuji,
formerly a vast congeries of temples
and priests' dwellings, of which,
however, a fire that took place
during the civil war of 1864 has
left but few remnants standing.
The NijO Palace (Nijb no Rikyu).
This site originally held a mansion erec-
ted by Nobunaga in AD. 1569 for Yoshi-
aki, the last of the Ashikaga dynasty of
Shogniis. The present edifice dates froia
1601, when leyasu built it to serve as a
pied-a-terre on the occasion of his visits ta
Kyoto. During his time and thatofhia
successors, the Tok»ig.i\y'a Shogun«, it was
known a« Xijo no Shiro, «n" the Nijo Castle.
On the 6th April, ISGS, the present Mikado,
just re-iuvetsted with his full ancestral
rights by the revolution then in progress,
hei-e met the Councd of State, and in their
presence swore to grant a deliberative
assembly and to docide all measures by
public opinion. Afier this, the Castla
WHS for some time used as the office of the
Kyoto Prefecture, but was taken over in
1883 as one of the Imperial summer palaces.
Though as many as possible of the wall
paintings, being on paper, were i-oUed up
and put away during the occupation of the
palace by the prefecture, much harm -was
done to painted doors and to precious
metal-work by the almost incredible vjin-
dalisrn and negler.t which ran riot at that
period all over Jspan, wben to deface
antique works of art was considered a sign
of civilisation and 'progress.' The restor-
ation of the Nijo Palace to something like
its former splendour dates from 1885-6, at
which time the Imperial crest of the sixteen-
petallcd chrysanthemum was substituted in.
296
Route 43. — Kyoto,
most places for that of the Tokuga\ra
bhoguus.
This palace, a dream of golden
"beauty within, is externally a good
example of the Japanese fortress,
with its turrets at the corners and
its wall of Cyclopean masonry. It
is only, however, a fraction of its
fqrmer self. The present building
is what was called the Ni no maru,
or Second Keep, the Hojnmai'Uy
or Chief Keep, having been de-
stroyed by fire about 100 years ago.
Alighting at a fine gate called Kara-
Ttum or Yotsii-ashi-vion, decorated
-with exquisite metal- work and gilt
carvings, the Visitor is admitted
through a side-door into a court
planted with pine-trees. Opposite
stands a second gate, called O Kii-
ruma-yoscy gorgeous with gold and
colours and curious carvings of
peonies and phoenixes, the work of
Hidari Jingoro, brought from Hide-
yoshi's famous palace at Fushimi.
Turning to the r., the visitor is
then admitted to the Palace pro-
per, where, having signed his name
in the book, he is shown over the
various suites of rooms, the chief
character of which is spaciousness,
-while the profuse employment of
gold as the ground of the mural
decorations, and the unusual size
and boldness of the paintings on
that gold ground give to the whole
an aspect of grandeur, power, and
xichness rarely seen in a country
whose art, generally speaking, re-
stricts itself to the small and the
delicate. All the wood used in the
construction is hhwki and kcyaki ;
that of the doors is cryptomeria.
The rooms are n£imed according to
the objects painted on the sliding
screens round their walls. Some
have willow-trees, some palm-trees
and tigers, some immense eagles
bovering over pine-trees life size ;
others have fans, large baskets of
Howers, etc., all by artists of the
Kano school. The coffered ceilings,
too, where not injured, are very hand-
fKyme. The floors, formerly covered
^tli soft mats of a specially rich
thickness, are now reduced to tho*
bare boards — a strange discorct
in the golden magnificence. Their
removal . is said to have been
caused by the desire to imitate
European usage and lay carpets
down, but this has never been done.
The carvings in the ramma of somo
of the rooms are exquisitely minute.
One pair, in particular, attributed
to Hidari_ Jingoro, in the suite
called Ohiroinay which repre-
sents i^eacocks, is a triumph of
art. A peculiarity of some of
these carved ramma is that,,
though appearing to be open-work
and therefore identical on both
sides, the two sides are in reality
quite different from each other^
Thus, where the obverse has-
peacocks, the reverse will have
I)eonies. Most of the suites of
apartments are connected by
wooden doors having fine, bold
paintings by unknown artists. One
of these paintings is celebrated in
the artistic world under the name
of Naonobu no nurc-sagi (* the wet
'hexom'by Naonohu'). It represents
a heron perched on the gunwale of
a boat. During the reign of
prefectural vandalism, this precious-
work of art was used as a notice-
board to paste notifications on f
The Sotefsii no Ma, or * Palmetto
Room,' was entirely and irrecover-
ably defaced at the same time.
The most splendid apartment of
all is the Go Taimenjo, or Hall of
Audienc£, the last room in the suite
called 0-liircma. It positively
blazes and sparkles with gold, and
the extraordinary size and boldness
of the pine-trees painted all around
it produces, in its simplicity, an
impression which, when the place
was the scene of the reception by a
Shogun of his prostrate vassals, the
Daimyos, must have been over-
whelming. Tliu metal fastenings
are all gilt, and of exquisite work-
manship. They represent chiefly
phoenixes, conventional foliage, and
the Tokugawa crest. Here too
the mats have been replaced in the
Nijo ami Katsura Palaces, ToJL
297
old style — an evidence of good taste
prompted, so it is said, by the
remarks of foreign visitors. Notice
the two levels in the apartment. The
raised portion (jodan) was for the
Shogun, the lower (gedan) for
ordinary mortals. .The last apart-
ment of the suite called Kuro-join
is a smaller but equally gorgeous
reception room — all gold, with
•double cherry-trees in full blossom.
Observe the two beautiful shelves
(chigai'dana)y one of which shows
some rude early examples of
■cloisonne work, — small medallions
w^ith the Shogun's crest. The style
■of decoration of the Shif-o-joi^i, the
innermost suite of all, differs from
the rest, the fusuma being of dull
gold painted in sepia with Chinese
scenes by Kano Koi. At the very
■end of the Palace is another great
Audience Hall, called Chokiishi no
Mtty or Apartment of the Imperial
Ambassadors. It is resplendent with
:gold and great trees — peach, maple,
■etc. — painted life-size, and has a
beautiful coffered ceiling and gilt
metal fastenings. The minor rooms
passed just before reaching it, and
decorated with wild geese and
herons, were intended for DaimyOs
to transact business in.
Katsnra no lUkyfi (Katsura
Summer Palace).
Formerly this retreat belonged to
Princess Katsura, a member of the Im-
perial family. It has now l)een taken
over as a summer i)alace or pleasure re-
sort for the Mikado himsfelf .
The' building itself is a ram-
shackle place, not differing in style
from any ordinary Japanese house.
Only those will care to inspect it to
whom every pencil-stroke of the
artists of the Kano school, especial-
ly Kano Tan-yii, is precious. The
walls are decorated by those artists,
chiefy in sepia ; but most of the
paintings are in a very bad state of
preservation. The square bamboo
frame to the r. on entering is called
Tsuki-mi-daif that is, * the moon-
gazing frame,' from the circumstance
that it was used by the inmates
to sit out on and watch the
moon rising over the pine-trees.
The object of visiting this place
is to see the Garden, which is a
perfectly representative example of
the best style of Japanese landscape
gardening, as practised by Kobori
Enshu and the other aristocratic en-
thusiasts who, under the general
name of cha-no-yu, or ' tea ceremo-
nies,' cultivated all the arts from
which esthetic enjoyment can be
derived. All the summer-houses in.
this garden are in the cha-no-yu
style — very plain and primitive^
as its canons ordain. Then too
there are pools, artificial streams,
rustic bridges, .large stepping-stones
brought from the two extremities of
the Empire, trees trained in arti-
ficial shapes, islets, moss-clad hil-
locks, stone lanterns. The lake is
full of a water-plant called kohone,
which generally bears only yellow
flowers, but here has red ones as
well.
Toji.
A Buddhist temple was first erected on
this site in the middle of the 8th century,
but was converted in A,D. 794 into a place
of entertainment for envoys from China
and Korea. Two years later, it reverted to
its original purpose, and being, in A.D. 82?},
bestowed by the reigning Mikado on Kobd
Daishi, became the head-quarters of the
Shingon sect of Buddhists whose doctrines
that great saint had recently introduced
from China. The buildings, which dated
from 796, were burnt down in 1486. The
present structures date fi-om about 1610.
It was close to this temple that stood in
ancient times the city gate called Ragha-r
inon, the scene of a portion of the legend
of the Ogre of Oeyama (see Route 47).
Another legend attaches to the pagoda.
This edifice, it is said, after completion,
began to lean to one side. Kobo Daishi,
nothing daunted, prayed that it might lie
restored to the vertical position, and forth-
with the pagoda stood straight. A mcnre
rationalistic version of the story is that
Kobo Daishi connected the tendency of
the tower to lean to one side by digging a
pond on the other; and a pond full of
lotuses is shown to this day as a mute
witness to the truth of the legend.
Tourists are advised to visit this
temple on the 21st day of the month,
when the festival of Kobo Daishi is
held. Otherwise the place is apt to
298
Boute 43, — Kyoto,
look desolate, especially now that
the disestablishment of Buddhism
is causing all but a few of the most
popular temples to fall into neglect
and consequent decay. Most of the
buildings are in a rude style, with
mud floors, pillars and beams co-
loured red with oxide of iron, and
white plaster walls. Several of the
images are attributed to the chisel
of Kobd Daishi. The Keception
Rooms of the monastery are very
handsome, but special permission
must be obtained in order to visit
them.
The Sliliito Toiiiple of Inari
{Inari no Yasliiro), on the road to
Fushimi.
This popular Shinto temple, the proto-
type of the thousands of Inari temples
scattered all over the country, was
founded in A.D. 711, when the Goddess of
B.ice is said to have first manifested
lierself on the hill behind. Kobo Daishi
is said to have met an old man in the
vicinity of Toji can-ying a sheaf of rice
on his back, whom he recognised as the
deity of this temple, and adopted as the
'Protector' of that monastery. Hence
the name Inari, which signifies * Rice-
mah,' and is written with two Chinese
characters meaning 'Rice-bearing.' The
first temple consisted of three small
chapels on the three peaks of the hill
liehind, whence the worship of the god-
dess and her companion deities was
removed to its present site in 1246. Inari
is said to have assisted the famous smith
Kokaji to forge one of his historical swords,
and to have here cut the rock with it iu
order to try its blade -a legend which
:forms the subject-matter of one of the
ilTo, or Lyric Dramas. Hence this temple
is regarded with special reverence by
smiths and cutlers. The Inari deities
annually visit the Shinto temple of Ise,
leaving Kyoto on the 2V>th April and re-
turning on the 20th Ma.v, the journey
being performed in their sacred cars.
The best time to visit Inari is either on
the 9th April, wlien the annual festival is
held, or on the days of the Horse and
Serpent in each month, when devotees
xuHko the circuit of the mountain ( o yama
mm). Streams of pilgiims may be found
circulating up and down all night long on
the night between these two days.
The chief entrance is by the great
red toi'ii on the maiu road, then up
a flight of steps, and* through a large
gate flanked by huge stone foxes to
the haidcii^ or oratory. Thence one
comes to the chief chapel (hmi-
den), passing 1. the ex-voto shed an^
r. the kagura stage, and further oix
two stone foxes on pedestals, pro-
tected by cages to prevent tbemr
from being defiled by birds. Tlie-
pillars of the portal of the chief
chapel are plain ; but the rest of the
walls and pillars are painted red or-
white. Curtains {misu) hang down:
in front, and before each of the six
compartments is suspended a larger-
metal mirror about 18 in. in diame-
ter. Two gilt koma-inu and ama-
inn guard the extremities of the
verandah. They have bright blue-
manes, and on the legs, locks
of hair tipped with bright green.
Behind, to the r., is a white go-
down in which the sacred cars ar&
usually kept. They are celebrated
for the great value of their decora-
tions in gold, silver, copper, and
iron. The plain building to the
extreme 1. is the temple office
(Sliamiisho) .
A path to the l! leads up to a-
second level space where stand
various insignificant shrines ; then
up another flight of steps to a
shrine called Ka%ni no Yashiro,.
where begins what is termed the
Hora-meguri, or * Circuit of the
Mountain Hollows,' so called on ac-
count of various fox -holes b^- the
waj*. The beginning is marked by
innumerable small red toHi, placed
so close togellher as to form a regular
colonnade. Kather than make the
entire circuit, visitors pressed for
time will do well to strike off r^
after a few minutes to a place
where there is a little tea-house
(Sasayama-tei) on the top of a
minor hill commanding a good
view. Tliis point can be reached in
J hr. from the entrance to the
temple grounds. The entire circuit-
of the mountain will take at least
1 hr. On tlie way are passed large
stone boulders with inscriptions,,
and walls round them, and numer-
ous torii in front of each. At each
of these * boulder shrines ' is a lai*ge
tea-shed. The top is called Ichd -no-
mine, or more popularly Snehiro^
r
Inar
ri. TdfiiknjL Sen-yuji. San-ju-san -gen-do.
299
son. One descends another way,
the view just below the summit
being particularly fine towards the
S., including Uji with its river, the
Kizugawa, Momoyama, Fushimi,
.Yawata, Yamazaki, and on the
other side the swamp of Ogura, the
Kamogawa, the Katsura-gawa, and
the Yodogawa. On the way down
are a shrine called Chdja no Jinjaf
a number of sacred boulders as be-
foife, and some fox-holes called
O Samba, supposed to be the places
in which the vixens give birth to
their young. Just above the latter,
2 cho off the road, a fine view of the
city is obtained. The path is good
the whole way. The mountain is
celebrated for producing the best
mushrooms (viatsutahc) in Japan.
The streets in the neighbourhood
of the temple are crammed with
little earthenware dolls and effigies
called Fushimi ningyb.
Tof liknji, one of the chief monas-
teries of the Zen sect, was founded
by Shoichi Kokushi in the 13th cen-
tury. It is noted for the maple-
trees lining both sides of a gully
which is spanned by a bridge or
gallery called Tsu-ten-kyd, that is,
*the bridge communicating with
heaven.* This gallery and a tower,
in the roof give io Tofukuji an
o^ginal and striking appearance.
Of the formerly very extensive
buildings, only a few now remain.
The temple contains some good
wooden images, and a number of
iakemonos of the Five HuAdred
Bakan by the famous artist Cho
Densu, who , spent several years
here as an acolyte. But its greatest
treasure is a huge kakemaiio by the
same artist of Shaka's Entry into
Nirvana (Neliatizd), 24 ft. by 48 ft.
It is dated 1408, when the artist
was 60 years old. In the Apart-
ments, which were rebuilt in 1889,
are some screens by Tosa Mitsunobu,
Kano Eitoku, and Kano ^lotonori,
together with kakemonos by good
artists.
Sen-Tuji lies in a hollow sur-
rounded by pine-clad hills. It is
remarkable as having been for over
six centuries (1244-1868) the burial-
place of the Mikados ; but as neither
their tombs nor tlie various treasures
of the temple are shown, there is
little object in visiting it. The
glimpse which can be caught of the
mortuary shrine of Komei Tenno,
father of the present Mikado, shows
it to be handsome.
The chief treasure of Sen- j uji is one of
Buddha's teeth, said to have been brought
from China by the third abbot, Tankai,
The story ffoes that as soon as the Buddha
died, a demon named Soshikki stole this
tooth and ran away with it, but was pur-
sued by the god Ida Ten, and forced
to restore the precious relic. Sixteen
centuries later he presented it to a
Chinese priest to whom he was under an
obligation, and from this priest it passed
into Tankai's hands. It is kept in a
beautifully designed reliquaiy of gilt
metal in the shape of a pagoda, about 3 ft.
lugh, the upper, part being of Chinese,
and the platform on which it stands of
Japanese workmanship, dating from the
Ashikaga period (14th-16th centuries).
The tooth is enonnous, and evidently lie-
longed to some large quadruped, probably
a horse.
The insignificant little wooden
bridge passed between Tofukuji
and Sen-yuji deserve a word of
mention. It is called Yume no
Uki'hashi, or the Floating Bridge
of Dreams, and was the place
where, on the occasion of an
Imperial interment, the fruit, cakes,
and other perishable offerings to a
dead Mikado were thrown away
into the rivulet below as the proces-
sion inarched slowly at midnight
towards the place of sepulture.
San-jfi-saii-gen-do, the Temple
of the 33,333 images of Kwannou,
the Goddess of Mercy.
Founded in 1132 by the ex-Kmperor
Toba who placed in it 1,001 imatres of
Kwannim, to which the Empei-or Go-
Shirakawa after\%'ards added as many
more in 1165, it was completely destroyed
with all its contents in 1249. In 12«« the
Kmperor Kameyama rebuilt it, and filled
it with images of the Thousand-handed
Kwannou to the number of 1,000. Its
dimensions are 889 ft. by 57 ft. In IGO-J
the Shogun letsuna restored the building,
which takes its name, not from its
length, but from *he thirty-three sjiaces
between the pillars, which form a single
i*ow from end to end.
800
Route 43, — Kyoto,
Few temples in Japan are more
impressive than this, with its vast
assemblage of gilded images rising
tier behind tier. Each image is
6 ft. high, and all represent
the Eleven-faCed Thousand-handed
Kwannon. There are 1,000 of these,
the total number of 33,333 being
obtained by including in the com-
putation the smaller effigies on the
foreheads, on the halos, and in the
hands of the larger ones. Three
hundred of the large images were
executed by Kokei and Koei, two
hundred byUnkei, and the remainder
by Shichijo Daibusshi. I'hough all
represent the same divine person-
age, it will be found that in spite
of the general resemblance, no two
have the same arrangement of hands
and articles held in them. The
large seated figure in the centre
is also a Kwannon, while standing
round it are Kwannon's eight-and-
twenty followers (Biishu).'
Tradition says tliat the ex-Mikndo Go-
Rliirakawa, . being troubled with severe
headaches which resisted all the usual
lemedies, made a pilgrimage to the temples
of Kumano to pray for relief. He was
directed by the gods to apply to a cele-
brated Indian physician then resident at
a temple in the capital. On returning he
at once proceeded thither, *and engaged in
prayer until midnight, when a monk of
noble mien appeared, ami infonned him
that in a previous state of existence His
Majesty had been a_piou8 monk of Kiuna-
no named Renge-bo, who for his merits
had Ijeen promoted to the rank of Mikado
in this present life ; but that his foimier
8knll was lying in the l)ottom of a i-iver
still undissolved, and that out of it grew a
willow-tree which shook whenever the
wind ])lew, thereby causing His Majesty's
head to ache. On awaking from this vision
the ex-Mikado sent to look for the skull,
and having found it, had it enclosed in
the head of the principal Kwannon of
tbis temi)le.
It used foiTuerly to lie the ciifttom for
skilful archers to try how many aiTows
they could shoot from one end to the other
of the verandah on the W. front of the
building This was called 6-i/a-kasu, or the
' gi-eatest iiuml^er of arroAvs.' In KWfi a
retainer of the prince of Kisha is said to
have won the prize, 8hfK)tiug 8,133 out of
15,053 arrows right to the end.
The grounds of the Sau-ju-san-
geu-do will shortly contain a Fine
Art Museum {BijtUsu-kican)^ . to be
completed in 1892. Also in the ssLxrtG
enclosure is the celebrated
l^aibiitsii, or Great Buddha.
In 1588 Hideyoshi built a temple to liold
a large image of Roshana Butsu, the GrnX
of Light, in imitation of Yoritomo, wbc^
had originated the project of constructinL^
a Daibutsu at Kamakura. The tenif>le
was 2110 ft. from the ground to the rid^^^e
of the roof, and the wooden image v(na»
160 ft. high. Both were destroyed hy sua.
earthquake in 1596. In the following ye«tx-
he rebuilt the temple, and placed in ±ti
the famous triple image of Amida, Kwan-
non, and Daiseishi, which he caused to ib©
removed for this purpose from Zenkoji ;
but after his death his widow restored it
to the temple at Zenkoji, and set aboiit
the construction of a new Daibutsu. Bjr
the labour of several hundred workmen
and artisans, a huge image was completecl
up to the neck ; but as they were engaffed
in casting its head, the scaffolding ac-
cidentally took fire, and all efforts to ex-
tinguish the flames, l)eing ineffectual, tbe
temple was speedily burnt to ashes This
disaster occmTed on the 15th January,
16i'3; but no attempts to repair it were
^nade until leyasu, in pursuance of Ms
policy of weakening his young rival Hide-
yori by inducing him to undert ke the
reconstruction of famous buildings on a
scale of magnificence calculated to ex-
haust his finances, persuaded him and
his mother that due regard for Hideyoshi's
memory imposed upon them the obliga-
tion of seeing that his intention of rearing
a worthy fane to Buddha was not finally
jfriistrated. They joyfully adopted the
suggestion, and at ouce set alx)ut the
restoration of both image and building on.
the same colossal scale as before. By the
spring of J 614 both were successfully
completed, and the population of'»the
capital and sun-ounding provinces flocked
in crowds to witness the opening cere-
mony. But the High Priests who, with
the aid of a thousand bonzes of inferior
gi-ade, were to ])erform the dedicatory
service, had hardly taken their places and
commenced to repeat their liturgies, when
two mounted messengers suddenly arrived
from the Shogun's Resident, with orders
to interrupt the proceedings and forbid the
consecration. The disorder that ensued
among the assemblage, baulked of the
sight for which many of them had come a
long distance, and ignorant of the cause
of this unexpected termination of their
holiday, ended in a riot which the police
were unable to repress, and the city is
snid to have lieen actually sacked by the
infuriated crowd of country people. It
afterwards became known that leyasn.
had taken offence at the wording of the
inscription on the great l)ell, into which
the characters forming his name were
introduced, by way of mockery, as he
pretended to think, in the phrase Kokht
anld, * May the state be peaceful and pro»>
BuihuUn, KdshdjL Honhohiji.
801
'
■
perous * (ka and Id being tjie Chinese for
ie and yam) ; while in another sentence
•which ran, ' On the east it welcomes the
"brij^ht moon, and on the west bids fare-
^^ell to the setting sun,' he chose to dis-
•cover a comparison of liimself to the
lesser, and of Hideyori to the greater
luminary, from which he then inferred
-«,n intention on the part of Hideyori to
attempt his destruction.
The dissensions of Hideyori' s stnicture
•were : height 150 ft., length 272 ft., and
<lepth 167i ft., while the roof was sup-
|3orted by 92 pillars of from 4^ to 6s ft. in
<liameter, composed of timbers bound
together by stout iron rings, one or two
•of which have been preserved. The seated
figure of the Buddhgi was 68§ ft. high. In
1662 an earthquake destroyed both the
building and the image, and the greater
part of the latter was melted dowm into
•copper coins. In 1667 a wtwden image of
the same dimensions, lacquered a bronze
colour, was constructed in its stead. This
was damaged by lightning in 1775, but re-
stored, only to be set on fire again by the
same agency in 1708 and utterly con-
sumed. The present image was built in
1801 at the expense of a public-spirited
merchant of Osaka.
The Daibutsu consists only of a
head and shoulders without a body ;
but even so, it reaches to the
ceiling of the lofty hall in which it
is kept. The material is wood. The
head is gilt, but not the shoulders.
The dimensions are stated as
follows : —
Height 58 ft.
Length of face 30 ,,
Breadth of face 21 „
Length of eyebrow .... 8 ,,
Lengtli of eye 6 ,,
Length of nose 9 „
Breadth of npstril 2 ,, 3 in.
Lengtli of mouth 8 ,, 7 „
Lengtli of ear 12 ,,
Breadth of shoulders . . 43 „
Round the walls hang 188 cheap
modern pictures of Kwannon paint-
ed on paper, each inscribed with a
fttanza of poetry. There are also
some large pieces of iron, relics of
the pillars of the former building.
At the top of a gallery behind the
image is a rude altar containing a
black image of Fudo, which Hide-
joshi used to consider as his guar-
dian spirit in battle. By going
round this gallery, one seetf into the
inside of the image, which is hollow
but contains a quantity of beam-
work.
The huge Bell already alluded
to is seen on quitting the Dai-
butsu. It is nearly 14 ft. high,
9 in. thick, 9 ft. in diameter, and
weighs over 63 tons, being thus one
of the two biggest bells in Japan.
Its companion in size is at Chion-
in, also in Kyoto. That at !Nar&
comes third. The Daibutsu bell
hangs in a new belfry dating from
1884, the ceiling of which is gaudily
decorated with paintings of Bud-
dhist angels.
The new Shinto shrine, called
Toyokiini no YashirOj near to the
belfry on the 1. as one departs, is
dedicated to Hideyoshi, who was
buried on a hill close, by. The
handsome gate, which is an old
one, was brought from his palace of
IMomoyama at Fushimi.
Opposite is the Mimi-ztiJca, or
Ear Mound, beneath which were
buried the ears and noses of
Koreans slain in the war which
Hideyoshi waged against their coun-
try in the years 1592 and 1597.
I They were brought home by his
i soldiers instead of the more usual
! trophies of heads, as evidence of the
exploits performed in his service.
I KOshoji, a large temple next door
I to the Nishi Hongwanji (see next
I page), was founded in the 15th cen-
' tury, but the present buildings date
only from the i8th century. The in-
terior of the building is 28yds. square,
! and is in the same style as the !Nishi
; Hongwanji. In the Apartments
I are to be seen good paintings of
storks by Kano Eitei, of about the
year 1700, and a suite of three side-
rooms containing paintings by ar-
tists of the Shijo school.
Honkokliji, close to the Nishi
Hongwanji on the N., is remarkable
chiefly for the vast area over which.
its buildings are scattered, and for
the fact that it was the flrst monastery
founded by Nichiren when he e&-
tablished the sect which bears his
name.
d02
Iloute 43. — Kyoto,
Nishi Hoii^Tnnji, the head-
quarters of the Western branch of
the Hongwanji sect of Buddhists, is
a grand massive structure, as usual
with the temples of this sect. The
principal gate is decorated with
beautifully carved designs of the
chrj-santhemum flower and leaf.
The wire netting covering its inte-
Tior part is placed there, as in a
good many other edifices, in order
to prevent birds from building their
nests among the ' rafters. The ap-
parently useless wall just inside
the gate ser\'es the purpose of
securing privacy for the temple by
shutting out the view from the
street. The large tree (a Gingko
bUoba, Jap. ichd) in the courtyard
is supposed to protect the temple
against fire, by discharging showers
of water whenever a conflagration
in the vicinity threatens danger.
The interior of the main building
is 138 ft. in length by 93 ft. in
depth, and the floor covers an area
of 477 mats. As usual in the tem-
■ pies of this sect, the nave (gejin)
is perfectly plain, of keyaki wood,
vrith white plaster walls. R. and 1.
of the chancel are two spacious cham-
bers 24 ft. by 36 ft., with gilt pillars
and walls, decorated with the lotus-
flower and leaf. In them hang
large kakenwnos nearly 200 years
old, inscribed with invocations to
Amida in large gold characters on a
dark blue ground surrounded by a
glory, and portraits of the succes-
sive Heads of the sect. The front
of the nave is completely gilt, and
has gilt trellised folding- doors and
sliding screens decorated with
snow scenes, representing the plum-
tree, pine, and bamboo in their winter
covering, the ramma being filled
with gilt open-work carvings of
the peony. The cornice is decorat-
ed with coloured arabesques. In
the centre of the chancel (nai-
jin) is the shrine, covered with gilt
and painted carved floral designs.
It contains a seated elhgy in black
wood of the Founder about 2 ft.
high, said to be from his own hand.
Before it stands a wooden altar, the-
front of which is divided into small
panels of open-work flowers and
birds against a gilt back-ground.
This central apartment has a fine
cornice of gilt and painted wood-
work, and a coffered ceiling with the
shippo and Juina crest on a gold
ground. The dim light renders-
much of the detail obscure. The
building was erected about 1591 or
1592, and the decorations have been
since renewed every 50 years.
Next to the main temple, but of
smaller dimensions, is the Kddo or
Amida-ddj 96 ft. wide by 87 ft. in
depth, divided in the same way, but
having only one apartment, 30 ft.
by 36 ft., on each side of the central
chapel, with a dead-gold wall at the
back, and a coffered ceiling with
coloured decorations on paper.
Fancy portraits of Shotoku Taishi
and the * Seven Great Priests of
India, China and Japan,' including
Honen ShOnin, founder of the Judo
sect, from which the Shin or Hon-
gwanji sect is an offshoot, hang in
those two apartments. A handsome
shrine, with slender gilt pillars and
a design composed of the chrysan-
themum flower and leaf, contains a
gilt wooden statuette of Amida^
about 3 ft. high, so much discol-
oured by age as to look quite black.
It is attributed to the famous sculp-
tor Kasuga Busshi. Over the gilt
carvings of tree-peonies in the
ramma are carvings of angels in full
relief. A sliding-screeu close to the ^
entrance on the r. of the altar,,
painted with a peacock and pea-hen
on a gold ground, perched on a
peach-tree with white blossoms, by
one of the Kano school, is worth
special notice. Application should
bo made for permission to visit the
State Apartments, which are very
fine. On the way in are some slid-
ing panels by Kano Eitoku, which
were brought from Hideyoshi's
castle at Fushimi. The largest
room (Taimmjo)j 69 ft. deep and
54 ft. wide, has good paintings on
the walls by Kano Hidenobu ; the
Nishi and Higashi HongicanjL
303-
storks in the ramma are attributed
to Hidari Jingoro. Next comes a
small room with bamboos on a gold
ground, and a coffered ceiling with
Horal paintings, by artists of the
Xano school. Another room has
liirall-paintings of geese in all posi-
tions on a gold ground. It must be
noted, however, tjhat these paintings
are on large sheets of paper, which
have been fixed in their places after
having been executed in a horizon-
tal position.
True wall-paintin<?s, thnt is, paintings
executed <>u a vertical surtace, are extreme-
ly rare in Japan, the only well-authen-
ticated examples known to us being* the
series of paintings on l,acquer at the bade
of the main altar in the temple of Kwan-
uon at Asakusa in Tokyo, those on plaster
in the Kondo of the mona^steiy of Horyuji
iM>ar Nara, and some in the lower storey of
the pagoda of Toji.
The room beyond is decorated
with chrysanthemums on the walls,
and fans in the compartments of
the ceiling. We next pass through
an apartment decorated with pea-
cocks and cherry-trees, and gilt
carvings of the wild camellia and
phoenix in the rmmna ; then a room
with Chinese landscapes on a gold
ground, and carvings of wistaria in
the ravimtty and another with Chinese
architectural scenes and landscapes.
These form the suite called O-
biroma, or Chief Audience Room, and
the paintings are from the brush of
Hasegawa Ryokei. In the court-
yard opposite to this suite, is a stage
for the performance of the No.
Passing a small room decorated with
Chinese hunting scenes, and pro-
ceeding along a corridor, we reach
an apartment called Taiko Knbi-
jikken no May that is,, the room
where Hideyoshi used to inspect the
heads of his opponents killed in
battle, also from the castle of Fu-
shimi, with drums painted on the
ceiling and gilt open-work carvings
of the fi34ng squirrel and grapes in
the ramma.
Leaving the Apartments, we cross
a small court to the gateway known
as the Clwhushi Mon^ or Gate of
the Imperial Messenger, formerly
sparkling with gold, but now some-
what faded. The carvings are at-
tributed to Hidari Jingoro. The
figure on the transverse panels is
Kyo-yo (Hsii-yu), a hero of early
Chinese legend, who, having rejected
the Emperor Yao's proposal to resign
the throne to him, is rejpresented
washing his ear at a waterfall to
get rid of the pollution caused by the
ventilation of so preposterous an
idea ; the owner of the cow opposite
is supposed to have quarrelled with
him for thus defiling the stream, at
which he was watering his beast.
The buildings in foreign style hard
bythe Nishi Hongwanji, just out-
side what is knowil as the Daido-
koro-Mon, or Kitchen Gate, are a
seminary for young priests and
a girls' school, both under the con-
trol of this temple, and both im-
parting a modern education. If
time permits, the traveller may end
his inspection of the Hongwanji by
going over the Hi-tm-kaku, or Pavi-
lion of the Flying Clouds, removed
here from Hideyoshi's Palace of
Momoyama at Fushimi. In one of
the upper rooms is a sketch on a
gold-paper ground, attributed to-
Kano Motonobu (but more probably
by Kano Eitoku), called the Gydgl
no Fuji, or Fuji of Good Manners,
because the outlines can hardly be
distinguished unless the spectator
takes up a respectful attitude on
the floor.
Hi^ashi Hongwanji.
This, an offshoot of the Nishi Hongwanji,
was founded iu 1602, and destroyed by lire
in 1S64 during the unsuccessful attempt
maxle by the followers of the Prince of
Choshu to seize the person of the Mikado.
The new ediiice now in process of erection
is expected to be completed in 1892.
Though as j-et unfinished, thi»
temple well deserves a visit on
account of its noble proportions,
and as showing what a fine Buddhist
temple looks like when new. When
completed, it will probably be the
largest Buddhist temple in Japan.
So far as plan and style are con-
cerned, the orthodox model of the
604
Route 43. — Kyoto.
temples of this sect has been faith-
fully adhered to, both in tlie Daishi-
doy or Founder's Hall (the main
building), and in the subsidiary
Amida-db. Note the splendid
bronze lanterns, four in number, at
the entrance. The wood of all such
portions of the temple as are meant
ultimately to meet the eye is
keyaki ; the beams in the ceiling
are of pine. There are some good
carvings of the signs of the zodiac,
of waves, of bamboos, etc. The
chief dimensions of the main build-
ing are approximately as follows :
Length 210 ft.
Depth 170 „
Height 120 „
Number of large pillars . . 96
„ tiles on roof. . 103,612
Notwithstanding what has often
been said with regard to the decay
of Japanese Buddhism, the rebuild-
ing of this grand temple has been
and continues to be a strictly popu-
lar enterprise. All the surrounding
provinces have contributed their
quota — vast sums in the aggregate
— ^while many peasants, considering
gifts in kind to be more honourable
and; as it were, more personal
than gifts in money, have presented
timber or other materials. The
name of the architect of the main
building is Ito Heizaemon, a native
of Owari. The Amida-do is by Ki-
noko Tosai, a citizen of Kyoto.
Ketininji, a monastery of the Zen
sect, founded by the abbot Eisai in
1203, has little, from a tourist's
point of view, to justify its local
celebrity. The grounds are extensive,
and contain numerous suites of
apartments for the use of tlie monks,
who have the reputation of profound
Buddhistic learning. . A fair for the
sale of * old clo,' is held here on
the 10th of evei7 month.
From the name of tin's temple i'r derived
the term kenninJU applied to fences of split
bamboois fastened dose together against
horizontal laitens,
Nislii Otani is the burial-place
of the larger portion of the body of
Shinran Shonin, transferred here in
1603 from a spot now included withixi
the grounds of Chion-in. The stone
bridge spanning the lotus-pond, is
termed Megane-hash% from its re-
semblance to a pair of spectacles.
Several of the ornamental knobs on
the balustrade can be turned round.
A flight of steps leads to tlie hand-
some main gate, inside \YhicfaL ].
stands, as usual in the temples of
this sect, the Taiko-dd, a hand-
somely carved two-storied structure^
which is used as a place of confine-
ment for refractory priests, and re-
ceives its name from the drum
(taiko) which they are set to beat as
a penance. There are some hand-
some bronzes in front of the main
temple, a new building, plain out-
side, but with a sufficiently hand-
some interior, a striking effect being
produced by the restriction of gold
ornamentation to the vicinity of
the altar. A gilt figure of Amida
stands in a gold lacquer shrine.
In the court behind is an office for
the reception of the ashes of mem-
bers of the sect from all parts of
the country, whose relations pay to
have their remains deposited with
those of Shinran Sbonin, instead
of going to the expense of a monu-
ment in the adjacent cemetery. The
Kyoto members, on the contrary,
are interred in the cemeter5\ Oppo-
site is the oratory in front of the tomb,
which is so concealed behind a triple
fence as to be invisible. The path
up the hill leads through the ceme-
tery to the W. gate of
Kiyoniizii-dera.
The origin of this temple is lost in the
mists of anti(]uc fable. According to the
legend, the novice Enchin, having dreamt
that he saw a golden stream flowing
down into the Yotloga wa, went in search
of it, and ascending to its soiirce, found
there an old man sitting under a tree,
who gave his name as Gyoei, and said :
' I have been here for the last two hundred
years repeating the invocation to Kwan-
non, and waiting for you to relieve me.
Take my place for a while, that I may
perform a journey which is required ci
me. Tliis is a suitable spot for the erec^
tion of a hermitage, and the log which
you see lying liere wiU supply the
Kitjomizu-dera, Yasaha Pagoda.
305
material for an image of tho Most Com-
passionate One,' (i.e. Kwannou). With
these words he disappeared, leaving the
novice in charge of tne solitude. After a
while, finding that the old man did not
return, Knchm climbed a neighbouring
hill, and discovered a pair of shoes lying
on its summit, from which he inferred
that the mysterious old man was none
other than Kwannon in human form, who
had left the shoes behind on re-ascending
to heaven. He now detennined to make
the image of the gotl, but foiind his
strength' insufficient, and passed seve-
ral years looking at the log, vainly plan-
ning how to overcome the difficulty .
Twenty years had elapsed, when one
day good luck guided the warrior Sakanoe-
no-Tamura-Maro, who was in pursuit of a
stag, t-o this very spot. While he was rest-
ing, fgnchin represented his difficulties
to the hunter, who was struck with ad-
miration at the untiring devotion of the
novice, and subsecpiently, having taken
counsel with liis wife, gave his own house
to be pulled down and re-erected by the
side of the cascade as a temple for the
image, which was now at last completed.
A steep street of shops, where
little earthenware dolls (Fushlmi
ningyo) of every variety are to be
had, leads up to the temple, which
is situated in a striking position on
the hill-side and commands a justly
celebrated view of the city. The
two-storied gateway at the top of
the steps dates from the Ashikaga
period, and contains a pair of huge
Ni-o. One may pass either through
it, or tlirough another gate higher
up which abuts on the three-storied
Pagoda. To the 1. of and beyond the
Pagoda are several minor cha-
pels. The visitor then passes up
through a colonnade to the hon-
do or main temple, whose rough-
hewn columns and bare floor pro-
duce an unusual impression. In-
deed .the whole aspect of Kiyomizu
is unique and original, notwith-
standing a certain dowdiness which
seems to have settled down upon
it. Tlie main temple is dedicated
to the Eleven-faced Thousand-hand-
ed Kwannon, whose seated image,
a little over 5 ft. high, is contained
in a shrine that is opened only once
in thirty three years. R. and 1. are
images of the Eight-and- twenty
followers of Kwannon, and at each
end of the platform stand two of the
Shi-TennO. The shrine at the E.
end contains an image of Bishamon,.
who, as tradition tells us, appeared
to Tamura-Maro, in company with
Jizo (whose image, attributed to the
sculptor Enchin, is enclosed in the
W. shrine), and promised him aid in
his expedition against the Ainos of
N.E. Japan. Pictures of the three
hang at one end of the inner
chapel. The building is 190^ ft.
long by 88^ ft. in depth, and 5:i
ft. in height from the platform. It
has a wooden platform in front,
called the butai (dancing stage),
supported on a lofty scafiolding of
solid beams, and two small pro-
jecting wings which serve as or-
chestra (gakuya). An open hall
full of ex-voto pictures, extending
the whole length of the front, abuts
on the dancing stage. To it suc-
ceeds a long narrow matted corridor
called the naijiuj while the closed
chamber which contains the shrines
is called nai-naijin ; the front part
of this is sunk below the floor and
paved with squared stones. Lights
are always kept burning in the
temple, and worshippers pass in
and out all night. A feature adding
to the peculiar aspect of the place
is the abyss which divides the main
temple from the Ohu-no-in dedi-
cated to Kwannon, which is built
out from the opposite hill on piles.
It stands on the site of Gyoei's hut.
Below is a small cascade called the
Otoica no t<alci. On the hill to tho
1. are various smaller shrines.
The Yasnka Pagodn, five storeys
high, is worth ascending for the
sake of the near and complete view
which it affords of the city ; but the
ladder-like staircase is unpleasantly
steep for ladies. This pagoda, like
many others in Japan, is dedicated
to four Nyorai, namely, Ho jo on
the S., Amida on tho W., Ashuku
on the E., and Shaka on the N.
On the eight panels of the doors are
paintings on a thin coating of
plaster. Of the four images, that
of Shaka alone is old. On the in-
W6
Route 43. — Kijoto,
terior walls and pillars are paint-
ings of various Buddhist deities.
This pa^roda i'h mid to have been founded
hv Shotoku Taisbi about the end of the
'6th cenlur}'. but another account makes it
date from 679. The present building dates
from 1618.
Kodaiji, noted for its relics of
Hideyoshi, belongs to the Iliuzai
branch of the Zen sect.
Founded in A.D. 888, it underwent mnny
vicissitudeii, and was relniilt in 1605 by
Hideyoshi's widow, in order that services
nii$rht be peiforraed there for the benefit
of the souls of Hideyoshi and his mother.
In 1863 8ome rdnins set the principal l)uild-
ingson fire, because it was announced .that
the ex-Prince of Echizen, whom they looked
upon as an enemy of the Mikado's party,
was about to take up his (quarters there.
The greater part of the buildings pprish-
ed on this occasion ; but some few por-
tions, together with the fine garden, still
remain.
The visitor is first ushered into
the Apartments, which, though of
of modest proportions, contain
some good works of art. There are
gold screens by Kano Motonobu,
Kano Koi, and Hasegawa Tohaku.
One by Matahei is very curious, as
representing the arrival of Korean
envoys at Sakai in Japan, while a
brilliant but anonymous halccmono
<lepicts the Chinese emperor Shin-
no-Shiko. There are also various
relics of Hideyoshi and his wife
— his writing-box in mother-of-pearl
the black lacquered * horse * on
which she hung her clothes, etc.
From the Apartments the acolyte
who acts as cicerone will show the
way to the Garden^ which was de-
signed by the celebrated esthete, Ko-
bori Enshii. Its picturesque effect
is much heightened by the two lofty
pine-clad hills that rear their heads
-over the trees at the back. We
next pass up a gallery, which was
brought from Hideyoshi's palace
-of Momoyama. Hideyoshi used
to sit on the little square in
the middle of this gallery to gaze
at the moon. Then one comes
to the Kaisan-doj or Founder's
Hall, the painted ornamentation
•of which is highly original in style.
The ceiling is made of the top
of Hideyoshi's wife's carriage,
from a portion of the roof of Uie
war-junk prepared for Hideyosbi's
use in his expeditions against Korea.
The four panels of the shrine wero
painted by Kano Motonobu. A
curious incense-burner in front of
the little altar was brought from
Korea by Kato Kiyomasa, and is
shaped like an octopus. The
dragon on the ceiling is by Kano
Eitoku. From the Founder's Hall
we i)ass up another covered gallery
named the Gwaryd no Boka, that is,
the Corridor of the Sleeping Dragon,
to the O Tamaya^ or Mortuary
Chapel, which contains a seated
effigy of Hideyoshi in a shrine
having panels of black lacquer with
designs in thin gold taken from his
wife's caniage. The hat was one
given to him by the Emperor of
China. On the opposite side is the
effigy of his wife (Kita-no-Mando-
koro) in the gArb of a Buddhist nun.
The Thirty-six Poets, by Tosa
!Mitsunobu, hang round the walls.
Four sliding screens by Kano Moto-
nobu, much injured by time, are
also shown. Note the gold pattern
on the black lacquer steps inside
the altar. It represents rafts and
fallen cherr^'-blossoms floating down
the current of a river. The way
leads down the gallery again, and
so out. The guide may offer to
take the traveller up to the Shigttre
no Chin and Karahasa 'no Chin on
the hill behind ; but they are not
worth spending time over, being
mere little thatched summer-houses,
old and quite abandoned.
Shogrnii-znkA is about 570 ft.
above the river.
It takes its name, which means the
GeneraliHsimoV Mound, from the tisdition
that when the Emperor Kwammu removed
his capital to its present situation, he buried
here the efii^ry of a warrior in full armour,
provided with a bow and arrows, to act as
the protecting deity of the new city.
This eminence commands a wide
prospect over the city and sur-
rounding country, up to the monn-
tains bounding the province of Yami^
Shoyim-zuJca, HiyasJd Otani, Gion,
307
shiroontheW.andN. Just below are
the two-storied gateway of Chion-in
And the temple of Gion, from which
Shijo Street can be traced right
across the city. Above the Shijo
bridge are the Sanjo and Nijo
bridges, below it that of Gojo. The
high mountain with a clump of
trees on its top bearing nearly N.W.
is Atago-yama. A long white wall
under it indicates Ninnaji or Omuro
Oosho, to be recognised also by its
pagoda. In front of this again is the
Nijo Palace. By following the line
of the Nijo bridge we perceive the
garden of what was formerly the
Palace of the abdicated Mikado, and
behind it the Palace of the reign-
ing Mikado. ■ A little W. of N. is
the broad bed of the Kamogawa ; at
the base of the mountain range from
which this river issues lies the temple
of Kami-Gamo, beyond w^hich is the
mountain road to Kurama. At the
junction of the Kamogawa and
Hirano-gawa is a dense grove which
conceals the temples of Shimo'Gamo
and Kawai. The summit of Hiei-
zan bears N.E. by N. Half-way be-
tween its foot and the spectator lie
Kurodani with its pagoda and nu-
merous buildings, and the large roof
of Shinnyo-do with its pagoda
further \V. Nearer is the two-
storied gate of Nanzenji, half -hidden
among the trees. A little S. of W.
are the two high roofs of Nishi
Hongwanji and the single large hall
of Koahoji. A little further S. is
the pagoda of Toji beyond the rail-
way station, and S.W. in the far
distance are Tenno-zan at the end of
the Western Hills (Nishiyaina),
above Yamazaki station, and the
Yodogawa flowing gently along its
half-choked bed towards the sea.
Prom the E. brow of the hill the
view commands the Tokaidd and
the railway winding round the base
of the opposite range.
Nearer than Shogun-zuka to the
city proper, is Mariiyaina, a suburb
almost exclusively occupied by
tea-houses — the resort of holiday-
makers bent on dancing, drinking,
or bathing. Some may find it more
convenient to visit the Higashi Ota-
ni, Gion, and Chion-in temples first,
and to take ISIaruyama and Shogun-
zuka afterwards.
Higashi Otani, is the burial-place
of a portion of the remains of Shin-
ran Shonin, founder of the Monto
or Hongwanji sect, of Kennyo the
founder of this its Eastern branch,
and of Kennyo's successors the
later abbots. The grounds are
extensive, and finely situated on &
hill-side facing Atago-yama and
Kurama-yama. An avenue of pine-
trees leads up to the gateway, which
is decorated with good carvings of
chrysanthemums. The chapel (hon-
do), though small, is a glorious
specimen of Buddhistic art, — lovely
in its rich simplicity of gold with no
other colours to distract the eye. On
the altar is a wooden statuette of
Amida by the sculptor Kwaikei. In a
shrine at the side hangs a portrait
of Shinran Shonin. Observe the
* wheel of the law,' repeated nine
times on the frieze above the ma{n
altar. A flight of steps behind the
chapel leads up to the tomb, in
front of which stands a beautiful
gate carved by Hidari Jingoro. The
panels at the sides of this gate,
originally gilt, represent 1. the carp
ascending a cascade — the symbol of
effort and success in life — and r. the
lioness casting her cub down &
precipice in order to harden it, both
favourite motives with the artists of
Japan. On the top of the tomb
lies a remarkable stone called the
' tiger-stone ' (tora-ishi). The ar-
rangements for interring members
of the sect are similar to those at
the Nishi Otani (see p. 304). In
the grounds near the chapel i^ a
splendid bronze fountain, lotus-
shaped with a dragon rampant atop.
As in the Nishi Otani temple, so
here too there is a Taiko-db for the
confinement of refractory priests.
fiion no Yashiro, less often
called Yasaka no Yashb'o, stands
close to Higashi Otani.
808
Bonte 43. — Kyoto,
This Shinto temple is said to have
Ijeen founded in A.D. 656 by a Korean
envoy in honour c.f Busano-o. Gion-ji
Mras the name given to a Buddhist
temple dedicated to Yakushi and.Kvran-
non which stood in the same enclosure,
and by popular usage the name Grion came
to be applied to the ShintS temple as well.
Oiont it may be observed for the sake of
those familiar with Indian Buddhism, is
the Japanese rendering of Jefacann
Vikdroy the namo of the park or monastery
presented to Buddha by Anathapindaka.
Though widely known and much
frequented by worshippers, this
temple produces an impression of
shabbiness. The chief building
(honden) is 69 ft. long by 57 ft. in
depth, and is roofed with a thick
layer of bark. The annual festival
takes place on the 15th June.
Cllion-in, the principal monastery
of the Jodo sect, stands on a hill in
Eastern Kyoto in a situation recall-
ing that of many fortresses. Near
its gate in Awata-guchi is the cele-
brated pottery of Kinko-zan..
This temple was founded in 1211
l>y Enko Daishi, also knowfi as Hd-
nen ShSnin. He was ]x)m in 1133
of respectable parents in the province
€jf Mimasaka, and various portents are
said to have accompanied his birth.
At the age of nine he was entered as
a pupil at a seminary in his native pro-
vince ; but his teacher, recognising his
exceptional powers, sent him up to the
great monastery on Hiei-zan in 1 147, witli
ft letter containing only these words: 'I
send you an image of the gi'cat sage
liouju.' On the letter being presented,
the priest to whom it was addressed asked
where the image was, and was much
astonished when the child alone api)eared
before him. But the young novice soon
justified the implied estimate of his gi-eab
intellectual powers, and made such mpid
progress in his studies that at the end
of the same year ho was judged fit to Ik;
admitted to the priesthood. The prospect
was held out to him of ultimately obtain-
ing the headship of the Tendai sect, but
"he preferred to devote himself to the study
of tneology, and finally developed a special
doctrine of salvntion, or the road to the
•Pure Land,' from which the new sect was
named Jodo^ this wonl having the same '
meaning as the Sanskrit Sukhacdfi or
*Pure Land,' the heaven of Amida. In
1207 he settled at Kyoi^o near the site of
the present mcmastery, and there breathed
liis last in A.D. 1212 at the age of 79.
TJhe buildings were twice destroyed by
fire in the 15tn century and once again in
the beginning of the 16th. loyasu rebuilt
the monastery in 1003, but it was burnt
again in 163;(, with the cxcention of the
two-storied entrance-gate, the libraiy, and
the Seishi-do. Its restoration was im-
mediately commenced, and in 1630, during
the reign of lemitsu, the whole was com-
pleted.
A broad avenue between banks
planted with cherry-trees leads up
to the main entrance, or Savimcni^
a huge two-storied structure 81 ft.
by 37^ ft., the total height from th&
ground being 80 ft. A staircase oa
the S. side gives access to the upper
storey, which contains images of
Shaka, with Sudatta and Zenzai
Doji on his r. and h, and beyond
them on each side eight Bakan
in elaborate dresses, all- about life-
size, the work of a carver of Bud-
dhist images named Koyu. The cor-
nices and cross-beams are richly
decorated with coloured arabesques,
geometrical patterns, and fabu-
lous animals. The ceilings, w^hich
lose their effect by being too low,
have dragons and angels ou
a yellow ground. The gallery out-
side commands a charming view of
the city through the pine-tree tops,
while to the N. towards Hiei-zan
the prospect is wonderfully beauti-
ful. At the S. end there is
another pretty view of the densely
wooded hills. Two flights of steps,
one steep, the other rising gentlj'-,
conduct us to the great court,
and to the front of the Ilonddy
or ^lain Temple. On the r., on a
small elevation among the trees,
stands the bell-tower, completed
in IBIS, containing the Gj-eat Belly
height 10.8 ft., diameter 9 ft.,
thickness 9h in., weight 125,000
catties (nearly 74 tons), cast in
1633. The Hondo, which faces S., is
167 ft. in length by 138 ft. in depth,
and 94^ ft. in height from the ground,
thus being the largest building of
the kind in Kyoto. It is dedi-
cated to Enko Daishi, whose shrine
stands on a stage, called the Shu-
mi-dan, at the back of the
chancel, within a space marked off
by four tall gilt pillars. The gilt
metal lotuses in bronze vases.
Chion-in, Awata Palace,
809
which, stand before the front pillars,
reach a height of 21 ft. from the
floor, being nearly half the height
of the building. The dimensions
and the confinement of decoration
to this single part render this
interior very effective. On the W.
of the chief shrine is a second con-
taining memorial tablets of leyasu
and his mother and of Hidetada,
while on the opposite side (E.) are
Amida in the centre and the memo<
rial tablets of successive abbots.
Under the eaves of the front gallery
is an umbrella, said to have flown
thither from the hands of a boy
whose shape had been assumed by
the Shinto god of Inari, guardian
deity of this monastery.
!Bast of the Main Temple is the
liibrary, containing a complete copy
of the Buddhist canon. Behind
the Main Temple, and connect-
ed with it by a gallery, is the
.Shueidoy containing two good altars,
one of which holds Amida by
Eshin Sozu, with Kwannon and
Seishi r. and 1., the other a very
large gilt Amida by the brothers
Kebunshi and Kebundo. To the r.
of the big image sits Monju in the
costume of a priest. After viewing
these, one is shown over the Goterij
or Palace built by lemitsu, which
is divided into Jwo parts, called re-
spectively the O'Hojd and Ko-Hojo.
The decorations on the sliding
screens by artists of the Kano
school arfe very fine. There are two
rooms painted with cranes and
pine-trees by Naonobu ; then other
rooms with pine-trees only, by
Naonobu and Nobumasa, once
occupied by the Mikado. At
the place where the sets of apart-
ments meet is a wooden door
with a cat, much admired by the
Japanese because it appears to
front the spectator from whatever
point of view he may observe it.
One fine room by Eitoku has snow
scenes, unfortunately somewhat
faded. The next room, also adorned
with snow scenes, was the reception
room of the Imperial Prince who
acted as high priest (Kwacho-nO"
Miya). The Sixteen Bakan in the
next room to this are by Nobumasa.
Returning to the back of the O-
Hojo, we reach a ^mall eight-matted
room decorated by Naonobu with the
plum and bamboo, which is called
Miya Sama no o Tokudo no Ma^ that
is, *the room in which the Prince was
initiated into the priesthood.* The
chrysanthemums in the room next
to this are by Nobumasa, by whom
too are the celebrated sparrow (nuke-
suzume) which flew through the
screen after it was painted, and the
i-naori no sagi, or * egret in the act
of rising.' In the verandah are a
pair of wooden doors painted with
pine-trees, which are said to have
been so life-like as to exude resin.
After these come rooms by Tan-yii,
with willow-trees and plum-blossoms
covered with snow. The monastery
is rich in MSS. which, however, can
only be seen by making application
through the city authorities. The
tomb of Enko Daishi is situated
further up the hill, and is reached
by ascending the steps E. of the
Hondo. Close to Chion-in is the
Awata Palace (Aivata no Goten),
It was first built as a place of retirement
for the Emperor Seiwa in A.D. 879, after
his abdication of the throne. He died here
in the following year. The present build-
ings are of more modem date.
The Apartments have sliding
screens by artists of the Kano
school, — Eitoku, Mitsunobu, Moto-
nobu, etc. — some much faded,
others beautifully preserved. There
are also beautiful gold folding
screens by Tankei Moriyoshi, Boku-
shinsai, and others. Several of the
wooden doors connecting the various
suites have quaint coloured paint-
ings of the cars (dashi) used at the
Gion festival. The garden was
planned by Soami.
On the way to Nanzenji one
passes whdt looks like a railway,
but is really only a portage between
the two sections of the Lake Biwa
Canal, where the boats which navi-
gate on either side are placed on
810
Route 43. — Kyoto.
tracks and rolled along for a few
hundred yards. Through the
grounds of Nanzenji, too, passes
the aqueduct that conveys water
from Otsu to Kyoto, a red brick
structure whose arches rather add
to than deteriorate from the pic-
turesqueness of the place.
Nanzenji.
This temple of the Rinzai division of
the Zen sect originally belonged to Mii-
dera at 5tsu; but about 12B0 the ex-
Emperor Kameyama appropriated it for
his own residence, and in 1289 converted
it into a monastery of the Zen sect. The
present main temple was built by leyasu
in 1606. The two-storied gateway facing
W., 66 ft. by 32 ft, was built in 1628 by Todo
Takatora, prince of Tsu in Ise, at the cost
of a year's revenue. The famous robber
Ishikawa Goemon is said to have made
his residence in the gate-house which pre-
ceded the present building.
The Hatto, as the main temple is
called, produces a somewhat strik-
ing eifect, on account of its mixture
of richness and simplicity, the dark
blue tiled floor picked out with
white and the plain brown wooden
columns contrasting with the rich
red and black altar and the gold of
the images enthroned aloft thereon.
These images represent Shaka, Fu-
gen, and Monju, flanked by the Ni-6
lacquered with vermilion brought
from Korea, as were also the two
bronze bowl-shaped gongs in front.
£. of the altar are the original
founder of the Zen sect (the Chinese
Hui-k'o), Daruma, Binzai Zenji,
originator of the subdivision of the
Zen sect called after his name, and
Nannin Kokushi, the * second
founder,* or restorer of the mon-
astery in modem times. In the un-
usually large two-storied gate-way
are Shaka and the Sixteen Rakauy
the colours in good preservation.
The cornice and wall-plate are gor-
geously decorated with coloured
diapers and arabesques. On the
cross-beams are painted the unicorn
(Jcirin) and flying dragon ; on the
ceiling, the phoenix and angels in
subdued colours on a pale yellow
ground. The whole interior presents
a magnificent example of this style
of decoration. In two small black
lacquered shrines are kept effigies
of Takatora and leyasu.
Eikwando, a temple of the Jodo
sect on the flank of Higashi-yamck,.
is specially worth visiting in tl^e
lotus or the maple season ; and
those interested in Buddhist legends
will like to see the famous image
coHedi Mi-kaeri no Amidaj or Amida
Looking over his Shoulder.
Originally founded about the middle of
the 9th century, this temple was restored,
by the priest Eikwan (b. 1032, d. 1111),
whence its present name.
The main temple, in which the
image stands, was repaired about
ten years ago in handsome style.
The image is 2^ ft. high, the drapery
well-rendered, the head half turned
round to the 1. as if looking back-
wards. It is kept enclosed in a
shrine on the main altar, and those
desirous of seeing it must apply to
the priest in charge. The image
will then be unveiled with some
little pomp and circumstance, lights
lighted, and a bell rung, while the
priest mounts up on the altar beside
the image and recites the legend.
A curtain is then drawn up, and the
image stands revealed in a dim reli-
gious light.
The legend is that Eikwan, who used
to spend his time in walking round the
image repeating the formula Namu Amida,
one day heard his name called twice or
thrice, and looking round perceived the
image with its f a«e turned in h\p direction*
and so it has remained fixed until this
day. Eikwan*8 own statue is one of those
placed to the r. of the altar and a little
behind it, so that Amida now perma-
nently looks in his direction. A sequel to
the legend says that a certain Daimyd,
Lord of Akashi, having doubted the
imi^e's power, struck it on the r. side in
order to see what would happen, when
blood flowed from the wound down on to
its breast.
Knrodani is a monastery of the
Jodo sect, beautifully situated on
the side of a hill.
It stands on the spot where the founder,
Honen Shdnin, built his humble cabin on
abandoning the Tendai school of Hiei-san,
and is named after the * black ravine ' od
that mountain, where he had previondy
resided. The monastery of Kurodani mw
Kurodanu
811
b«^un at the end of the 13th century, and
gradual additions were made until it was
completed in the beginninsr of the 16th.
After being destroyed by fire and rebuilt
two or thi-ee successive times, the whole
establishment was re-erected in the latter
part of the 18th century. ■ The chief his-
torical interest of Kurodani is its connection
With the true aod touching stoiy of
Kuniagai Xaozane (see p. 42), who here ex-
cbanfred the sword of the soldier for the
xnonk*s rosary and life-long penance.
In front of the main temple
are two beautifully _ trained pine-
trees, — one called Ogi iio Matsic
because fan-shaped, " the other to
the r., Yoroi-kali^-nuUsu because
Kaozane is said to have hung up
bis armour on it. The altar of the
main temple is a truly grand mass
of gold, with a gold baldachin in
tbe centre, while all round hang
beautiful silk banners (maru-bata)
and the metal ornaments known as
Iceman, which represent the head-
dresses of fairies. A richly gilt
shrine contains the effigy of Ho-
nen Shonin, carved by himself
in 1207, and first brought to this
monastery in 1609 ; it is a seated
wooden figure with the paint
rubbed ofl by frequent cleaning.
Two long lacquered boards, with
texts containing the fundamental
truths of the sect, hang on the
pillars r. and 1. of the altar. Behind
the altar in the gallery is a large
bold picture of Seishi Bosatsu, called
liappd shdmen, because the eyes
seem to look straight at the beholder
wherever he stands. It is by Tansaku.
Some very large and splendid hake-
vwnos are hung up in this temple
from time to time. One is a
painted maiidara, that is to say, a
representation of the Buddhist
paradise with its complicated ar-
rangement of * many mansions.' It
is a modern copy of a very celebrated
piece of embroidery in lotus threads
by Taema Chujo-Hime. The other,
dating from 1669, is embroidered,
and is a magnificent specimen of
that art. It represents Buddha's
Entry into Nirv&na (Nehanzd),
In the Apartments, which are fine
^uid spacious, a number of works of
art are preserved. There are some,
fine black and gold sliding screens
by Kubota Beisen representing a ter-
rific dragon, a folding screen by Tosa-
no-!Mitsuoki with scenes from the
Genji Moiiogatarij a curious kake-
ino7io of the mourning for Honen
Shonin by his disciples, a grotesque
black statuette of Jurojin by Hidari
Jingoro, a remarkable kakenwno
of 50 Buddhas whose bodies and
halos turn out on inspection to bo
nothing but the Chinese characters
Namtt Amida Butsu constantly re-
peated, a gilt statue o^ Amida by
Esjiin, and round the walls of the
same room the whole biography of
Honen Shonin in a set of minutely
and brilliantly painted kakemonos by
an unknown artist. In another room
is enshrined, in a richly wrought gilt
case, a noteworthy kakenwno of Jiza
submitting to be burnt in order to
save others (Yatano Jizo). There are
also some old kakemonos by Chinese
artists, a black image of Shinran
Shonin by himself at the age of 35,
and in a separate room a kakeirumo
of Naozane, together with his' rosary,
his enormous rice-pestle, and his
tremendously long and heavy sword.
No wonder that the hero is alleged
to have been 7 ft. 8 in. in stature.
Next come more images — Amida
by Jikaku Daishi with Fudo and
Benten, and beyond these a kake-
mono of the 25 Bosatsu, Amida in
the middle with rays of light-
streaming from his eye. Behind
the Apartments lies a pretty garden,
the pond meandering through
which is called Yoroi-sute tvo IkSy
because Naozane is said to have
thrown his armour into it.
On quitting the temple, the visi-
tor should glance in 1. at the fine
large gilt image of Amida by Genshi
Sozu in the lesser shrine dedicated
to that deity. Behind this, at a
little distance, is the graveyard
where Naozane and Atsumori lie
buried. The Kumagai-do, dedicated
to the memory of the former, is not
wbrth visiting, neither are the graves*
One may, however, on the way to
312
Boiite 43. — Kyoto,
the next sight, the temple of Shin-
nyo-do, walk through the cemetery,
which is extensive and prettily
situated on the side of a hill
crowned by a pagoda, and contains
several good large bronze Bnddhas.
Most of the graves are those of
Kyoto trades-folk.
Shiniiyo-doy a large temple of
the Tendai sect, has on its high
altar an image of Amida attributed
to Jikaku Daishi. The inscription
in the tablet over the entrance is
by Kobo Daishi.
The characters on this tablet arc, or
should be, -1^ fSi ^^ Shin-ni/o^lo. But the
middle one is not perfectly formed, whence
the proverb Ksbf) mo /ude no af/nmari,
'Even Kobo BHiKhi sornftimes wrote
•wrong,* as we say that * Homer -nods.'
Kdbo Daishi, be it remarked, wtts as
famous for his calligraphy as for his piety
and intellectniil and physical vigour.
Yosbida no Yashiro is an ancient
Shinto temple prettily situated on
a hill-sidc. It is octagonal, a form
seldom seen in Shinto temples, and
is painted white and vermilion.
Ginkakllji, properly Jishdji, is in
the viU. of Jodoji-mura, out of the
N. E. end of Kyoto at the base of a
xangjB of hills forming a spur of
Hiei-zau.
In 1479 Ashika^.' Yoahimnsa, after his
abdication of the Shoj^iin's dignity, built
him;sclf a country house here, the wall of
which extended asfar as the hill on which
stands Shinnyo-(lo. He is said to have
had that temple removed because it stood
in his way, l)ut afterwards repenting of
the act, to have restored it to its original
Bite at liis own experiso. The two-storied
Ijuildiuar, called Qinhiku (Silver Pavilion),
was a summer-house in the garden of his
princii)nl reception hall, built in imitation
of the Khihiht, or Golden Pavilion, of one
of his predecessors (see p. 292). The
garden was designed by Soami. It was
at Giukakuji that Yoshimasn, with So-
ami and Shuko, his favourites, practised
tlie tea ceremonies, which their patronage
elevated almost to the rank of a flno art.
The visitor is first shown over the
Apartments, the artist of which par
excellence is Buson. His sliding
screens are all either black and
white, or else in the very pale-
coloured style called iLsu-zaisliiki.
After the rooms adorned by his
brush comes one with an image of
Yoshimasa in priestly robes, rather
black with age but startlingly life-
like, and next a tiny tea-room, tlie
first in Japan built in accordance
with the canon prescribing 4^ mats
as the proper size for such rooms.
It has some very sketchy sliding
screens by Soami and Okyo, and a-
sketch of plum-blossoms by H5gen
Motonobu — so slight that none but
an enthusiastic devotee of the tea
ceremonies is likely to appreciate
it. One is then led into the
Garden which produces a charming
efEect, derived in part from the
high, thickly pine-clad hill be-
hind, lending it a really natural
aspect. The curiously shaped
heap of white sand seen on enter-
ing the garden is called Gin
SliadaUy the Silver Sand Platform.
Here Yoshimasa used to sit and
hold esthetic revels. The smaller
one behind is called the Kd-getsu-
daiy or I^Iound Facing the Moon,
where he used to moougaze. There
is a lake of course, as in all these
gardens, and as usual each stone,
each bridge, each tree of any size
has its name. The rill is called
Sen-getsu-se?if or the Moon-Washing
Fountain; a stone in the pond is
the Stone of Ecstatic Contempla-
tion ; a little bridge is the Bridge of
the Pillar of the Immortals, etc.,
etc. The Pavilion (Gmkaku) is so
dilapidated as to be no longer worth
visiting. Enquiry shows that it never
was really coated with silver, as its
name would imply, Yoshimasa
having died before he had got so
far. A visit to this place generally
ends by the priest who acts as guide
offering the visitor tea in the cJia-
no-yu style.
8kimo-6amo.
This ancient Shinto temple, dedicated
to Tamayori-hime under the name of
Mioya-no-kami, was founded in A.D. 677.
It was one of the twenty-two chief temples
of the Empire, and is still one of those
which are maintained at the expense of
the State.
This temple stands in a splendid
grove of patriarchal maples, ciypto-
ShimO'Gamo. Kami-Gamo.
dig
xnerias, and evergreen oaks. Farti-
•cularly curious are two tall sakaki
(Cleyera japonica) outside the main
^ate, \vhich are joined together by a
branch that has grown from one
trunk into the other. These trees,
"whichL are much visited by women
who desire to live in harmony
with their husbands, are called
renri no ki, and have a small torii
in front showing that they are
considered divine. The temple is
surrounded by a painted colon-
nade, with a red two-storied gate-
house (in the centre, opposite to
which is the haiden or oratory, a
shed 24 ft. by 18 ft. To the r. are
two other sheds called the hosodono,
for the musicians who play for the
performers of the Adzunia-nmi
dance in honour of the gods, and
the kashidono built over a walled
•canal, used by the reader of the
norito or ritual. The canal is called
Mitarashi-gawaj or Kiver of Lustra-
tion. The remaining buildings are
of the same character as in other
Shinto shrines. Outside the watch-
house which faces the main gate is
suspended a long picture of
Kotnei Tenno's procession to this
plaee in 1863, — a great event at
the time, as it was a practical
demonstration of the possibility of
the Mikado coming forth from his
palace to taJce part in worldly
matters, and thus inaugurated the
system under which his son, the
present lilikado, governs as well as
reigns. One of the smaller shrines
is the object of a peculiar supersti-
tion. It is believed that evergreens
of any species resembling the
hiiragi (a kind of holly) in general
appearance, but having no spines
•on the leaves, will jje converted into
that species if planted before this
•chapel, and shrubs supposed to be*
in process of transformation are
pointed out by the hostess of the
•adjacent tea-stall. The chapel is
appropriately styled Hiiragi no
Miya. The principal annual festi-
val is celebrated on the 15th April,
when the double cherry-blossoms
which adorn the adjacent race-course
are all out. The races, however,
do not take place till the 5th May.
A pretty road leads from Shimo-
Gamo to Kami-Gamo through an
avenue of pine-trees 50 cho long,
formerly the scene of many an
Imperial progress, with the Kamo-
gawa to the r., up whose course the
avenue goes, while Hieizan rises
behind it and Kurama-yama ahead.
Eami-Gamo.
This temple is usually said to have l)een
founded in 677 by the Kmperor Temmu in
honour of Wake-ikazuchi-no-Kami, but
there seems to be some uncertainty at-
taching to its early history. According^
to the le<?end, as Tama-yori-Hime,
daughter of the god Kamo-no-Take-tsumi,
was walking by the side of the stream,
there came floating towards her a red
arrow winged with a duck's feather, which
she picked up and carried home. Shortly
afterwards she was discovered to be preg-
nant, and she eventually gave birth to a
son. The father was unknown, and
as her parents disbelieved her declara-
tion that she ha<l never known a
man, they determined, as soon as the
child could understand what was said to
it, to anive at the secret by resorting to a
kind of ordeal. Inviting all the villagerH
to a feast, they gave the child a wine-cup,
telling him to offer it to his father ; bub
instead of taking it to one of the company,
he ran out of the house and placed it lu
front of the arrow which Tama-yori-Hime
had thrust into the roof. Then trans-
foi-miiig liimself into a thunderlx)lt, he
ascended to heaven, followed by his
mother. This myth eyidently originated
in an attempt to account for the name of
the River Kamo^ which means * duck.*
The temple buildings are quite
plain and beginning to look old.
The brick red colour of the outer
and inner palings is striking, though
scarcely prettj'. In the season of
the cherry-blossoms the place is
gay with visitors and tea-booths. At
other seasons it is scarcely to be
recommended, except to those who,
making a prolonged stay at Kyoto,
desire to become acquaJhted with
all its environs, and can take
Kami-Gamo on the way to
Kurania-ynma, a favourite walk
2 ri further off among the hills.
The name Kn rawa is said to be derived,
from an incident in the life of the Em-
peror Temmu, who in A.D,663, in order t»
I
814
Boute 43. — Ki/oto and Keiglihourhood,
escape from Prince Otomo, fled hitlier on
a * fisddled horse/ which he left tied up
tit this spot.
The walk back from Kurama-
yama to Kjoto may be varied by
striking over the hills to Shizuhara
and Ohara, thence to Yase 1^ W.
Here the women wear trowsers, and
carry burdens on their heads, sup-
ported on a thick cusliion. From
Yase to the Sanjo Bridge is 2^ H,
Shng^nkn-in is an Imperial garden
at the base of Hiei-zan, planned
by the Mikado Go-Mizuno-o in the
17th century. The pagoda of Toji
is the most conspicuous object in
the view over the city, rising up in
the gap between Otoko-yama and
Tenno-zan. The fine cherry-trees
and maples were planted by Kokaku
Tenno, grandfather of the present
MiJukdo.
Environs op Kyoto.
As may easily be seen by re-
ference to the map, several of the
temples and other places already
mentioned are, strictly speaking,
in the environs of Kyoto rather
than within the limits of the city
itself, owing to the already men-
tioned shrinkage of the latter in
modern times. The following are,
however, still further afield, de-
manding each the greater part of
a day to be done comfortably.
1. Iwashimizii Hncliinian-Gfi is
situated to the S.W. of Ky5to on the
L bank of the Yodogawa, close to
the vill. of Yawata, opposite Yama-
zaki station on the Tokaido Kail-
way.
This Shinto temple, also called Otoko-
yama, is dedicated to the Kmperor Ojin
who is worshipped as the god of war
under the title of Hachiman. The reason
for this particular form of apotheosis is
not apparent, as no warlike exploits are
recounted of the monarch in question.
Perhaps it may be owing to the tradition
that his mother, the Empress Jingo,
carried him for three years m her womb
whilst making her celebmted expedition
against Korea. •
The temple stands on a hill some
300 ft. above the river, and is built
in the Byobu-Shinto style, on ^|
stone-faced platform 10 ft. high. \
In former times pilgrims ivere
allowed to walk round the outer
edge of the corridor surrounding the
building, so that they were able^
to see the golden gutter between the
eaves of the oratory and chapel.
This is still said to be in its place,
in spite of the great temptation tO'
convert it into current coin. Prom
the E. gate a few flights of steps
descend to the well called Iwa-shi-
mizu, that is, *Pure rock water,''
after which the temple is named.
Crossing the river by the Ishiba-
no-Watashi (ferry), the visitor
should ascend Tenno-zan to the
pagoda of Takara-dera, 200 ft. above
the bank.
Here are buried some of the Choshfl
men who performed hamltiri on the top ci
the liill aljove, after the repulse of the at-
tack made on the Mikado's palace bj' the
warriors of that clan in 1 864. Three hundred
feet higher is a gigantic stone torii ; and a
little further, on the slope where they
killed themselves rather than surrender
to 1)6 treated as common criminals, standK-
the monument raised to their memory by
the prince of Chosha. This hill and the
narrow pass Ijctween it and the river,
(Xjcupied by the vill. of Yamazaki, are
famous in Japanese history as the battle-
field where Hideyoshi routed the forces of
the traitor Akechi Mitsuhide in 1562, and
thus avenged the assassination of his^
patron l^bunaga. Yamazaki and the
villages of Yawata and Hashimoto oppo-
site wore also the scene of hard fighting
in the beginning of 1868, when the Toku-
i gawa troops were l)eing driven l»,ckwanls
^ upon their l>ftse bythe victorious mmirai
< of Satsuma and ChoshU.
Other places which native holiday-
makers would combine in the same
day's expedition aTe Ao no Kdmijdji,
Nagaoha no Tenjuiy and Hashimoto,
2. Atagro-yaiiin is a conspicuous
peak to the N. W. of Kyoto, about
2,900 ft. above the sea. The ascent
*of it may advantageously be com-
bined with a visit to Omuro Gosho
(see p. 294), Uzumasa (p. 294), and
Sciryuji (p. 295), which all lie in
the same direction. A short dis-
tance beyond Seiryiiji is a red torii
at the bottom of a hill called
Kokorojni-zakat which might ba
Atago-yama, Bapids of , the Katsura-gaiva, Uji, 815
lendered * Test Hill,' sus it puts tlie
pil£pim*s endurance to a first trial
before he reaches the more arduous
ascent to the summit of the moun-
tain. Descending to the vill. of
Kiyotaki, 17 chdy we cross the stream
which lower down unites with the
Oigawa to form the Katsura-gawa,
and then begin to climb a very steep
path to the Minakuchi-ya. On the
'WAj up are two resting-places which
command a fine view of the plain.
The last half of the ascent is much
less steep, and the distance from
the last tea-house to the summit is
but 5 cho. On the 1. a glimpse is
caught of the Oigawa and the town
of Kameoka in the plain of Tamba.
There is a fine bronze torii with a
boar in relief at the top of the as-
cent. Several flights of stone steps
lead up to the front chapel, which*
is dedicated to the creatress Xzanami
and her child the God of Fire,
whose birth caused her death. The
most common ex-voto is a picture
of a wild boar. At the back is a
second chapel dedicated to Toyo-
uke-hime, the Goddess of Food, and
two other deities. Charms are sold
by the priests as- a protection
against fire.
3. Knraiiia-yama. See p. 313.
4. Bapids of the Katsnragawa.
This expedition makes a pleasing
variety in the midst of days spent
chiefly in visiting temples. The
distance from the Kyoto Hotel to
the vill, of Hozu, where boats are
engaged for the descent of the
lapids, is under 6 ri ; but the road,
though practicable for jinrikishas
the whole way, is hilly and rough
in places, so that t^o coolies
should be taken. A good plan is
to engage jinrikishas for the whole
round, as none can be counted on
at the landing-place at Arashi-
yama, the point to which the de-
scent of the river is made. There is
no extra charge for taking them in
the boat. Fare for jinrikishas for
the whole trip, including the return
from Arashi-yama to the Hotel,
$1^. The charge for a large boat to
descend the rapids is $3^ ; but it
is advisable to reach Hozu before
noon, as the boatmen make a double
charge after that hour, on the
ground of their not being able to re-
ascend the river the_ same day.
Visitors from Kobe or Osaka should
alight from the train at Muko-
maclii, the station before reaching
Kyoto, and join the road at Katagi-
wara, thereby saving in distance 2
ri 9 cho and the additional journey
by rail. At Mukomachi jinrikishas
(i^l for the whole trip) can be
engaged ; the distance to the junc-
tion of the roads at Katagiwara is
18 did.
The villages of Kutsukake and Oji
are traversed before reaching H6zu>
the point of embarkation. The
rapids commence almost immedi-
ately. The bed of the river is very
rocl^, but the stream at its ordi-
nary height not particularly swift.
The scenery is charming. The river
at once enters the hills which soon
rise precipitously on either hand,
and continues its course between
them for about 13 m. to Arashi-
yama. Of the numerous small
rapids and races, the following are
a few of the most exciting : — Koya
iw taki, or Hut Eapid, a long race
terminating in a pretty rapid, the
passage being narrow between artifi-
cially constructed embankments of
rock ; TdkasCy or High Rapid, Shi-
shi no Kuchif or The tjion's Mouth,
and Tonase-daki, the last on the
descent, where the river rushes
between numerous rocks and islets.
One ri before reaching Arashi-yama,
the Kiyotaki-gawa falls in on the 1.
Tlie descent takes on an average
about 2 hrs., but varies slightly
according to the amount of w^ater
in the river. From the landing-place
at Arashi-yama to the Kyoto Hotel
is a journey of 1 hr. by jinrikisha.
5. Uji (InnSy Yorozu-ya on the
Kyoto side of the river, and Kiku-
ya on the other side) lies a little
under 4 ri S. of Kyoto. There is a
316
Route 43, — Kyoto and Neighbourhood,
good jinrikisha road the whole way.
This neat little town, picturesquely
situated on the Yodogawa, here
called Ujigawa, which drains Lake
Biwa, is surrounded by tea planta-
tions that have been famous for
many centuries as producing the
finest tea in Japan.
Tea is believed to have been introduced
from China in 805 by the BudAhist abbot,
Dengyo Daishi. ' The Uji plantations date
fi-om the close of the 12th century.
The tea begins to come to market
about the 10th May, but the prepara-
tion of the leaf can be seen going
on busily in the peasants' houses k)r
some time later. The finest kinds,
such as Gydkuro (Jewelled Dew),
ajre sold at very high prices — as
much as from $5 to $7^ a pound.
Those, however, who expect to see
large firing or selling establish-
ments will be disappointed. Each
family works independently in quite
a small way, and gives to the tea
produced by it whatever fancy name
it chooses. The citizens of Kyoto
visit Uji in the summer to see the
fire-flies, and to enjoy the charming
view up the river which recalls that
from Arashi-yama. It is a good
picnicking place at all seasons.
Uji's chief sight is the ancient
Buddhist temple of Byddo-in^ be-
longing to the Tendai sect and con-
nected in history with the name
of the famous warrior Gen-sammi
Yorimasa.
The monastery dates from 1052. Here
Oen-sammi Yonmasa committed suicide
in 1180 after the battle of Uji Bridge,
where with 300 warriors he resisted the
20,000 men of the Taira clan, in order to
afford time for Prince M(X5hiluto to make
his escape. After prodigies of valour
had been performed by this little band,
most of whom fell in the defence of the
bridge, Yorimasa retired to Byodo-in,
and while his remaining followers kept
the enemy at bay, calmly ran himself
through with his sword in the manner of
an ancient Japanese hero. He was then
75 years of age. Yorimasa is famous in
Japanese romance for having, with the
aid of his trusty squire I-no-Hayata,
slain the monster called Sam-toru-hehi
which tormented the Emperor Nijo-no-in.
The large stone monument of
irregular shape, seen to the 1. on
entering the grounds of Byodo-in,
was erected in 1887 to hand down
the praises of Uji tea to posterity.
The building beyond the lotus pond
is the Hoo-ddy or Phoenix Hall, one
of the most ancient wooden stmc-
tures'in Japan, perhaps the most
original in shape, and formerly one
of the most beautiful, though now
unfortunately a good deal decayed.
It derives its name from the fact
that it is intended to represent a
phoenix, the two-storied central part
being the body and the colonnades r.
and 1. the wings, while the corridor
behind forms the tail. The ceil-
ing is divided into small coffers
inlaid with mother-of-pearl. Bound
the top of the walls runs a sort of
frieze representing the Twenty-five
JBosatsu and various female person-
ages. The doors and the walls r.
and 1. and behind the altar are
covered with ancient Buddhist
paintings by Tamenari, now almost
obliterated, of the Nine Begions
of Siikhavdti(Jsiip. Kuban Jddojj the
Pure Land in the West, where the
saints dwell according to their
degree of merit.
The altar or stage was originally
covered with nashiji gold lacquer
inlaid with mother-of-pearl ; and as
every inch of the walls and columns
was elaborately decorated with
paintings, the efiect of the whole
when new must have been truly
dazzling. By criminal neglect this
gem of art was left open to every
wind of heaven for many years, ana
what between the ravages of the
weather and the ravages of thieves,
the place has been reduced to its
present state of decay.
On the xooi are two phoenixes in
bronze, 3 ft. high, which serve as
weathercocks.
The Honddy or present main tem-
ple, which is much newer, has
nothing calling for special mention.
The Apartments, though poor, con-
tain various objects of interest,—
kakenionoSf illustrated scrolls, and
relics of Yorimasa, among other
things his flag which is inscribed
Eonte 44. — Lake Biwa.
817
vdth Sanskrit characters^ his bow,
saddle, and armour, a small coloured
image of him in priestly garb
which looks like a portrait, and a
very old kakemono representing his
life and adventures; There is also
a flag interesting as a very early
example of the Japanese national
device of the red sun on a white
ground. On the sun are inscribed
the characters Namu Amida ButsUj
-and a date corresponding to the
30th November, 1185. The collec-
tion contains furthermore quite a
number of small Buddhist images.
The walk up the stream to the
temple of Koshoji (ferry), return-
ing over the Uji bridge, is very
pretty. The most agreeable way of
returning to Kyoto is to take boat,
a,nd drop down to the Kyoba-
fihi at Fushimi in about an hour,
whence home by jinrikisha. Ob-
serve that an expedition to Uji
may be combined with a visit to the
Daibutsu (see p. 300) f San-ju-san-
gm-do (p. 299), Tofukuji (p. 299),
and the temple of Inari (p. 298).
Instead of following the main road
from Kyoto to Uji, some recommend
a d6tour vi& the temples of Fuji-no-
nwri and Obaku-san. Both of these
ancient and once celebrated edifices
have, however, fallen into such
lamentable decay as really not to
be worth going out of one's way
to see.
Fuji-no-Mori is dedicated to Toneri
fihinno, the chief compiler of the Xlhongi,
or ' Chronicles of Japan,' A.D. 720. Obaku-
mn, founded in 1659 by a Chinese priest
named Ingen, possesses a complete set of
wooden blocks for printing the Chinese
version of the Buddliist scriptures.
Those who prefer jinrikisha riding
to the train might go from Kyoto to
Nara vid. Uji — not much more than
a half-day's run — passing through
the vill. of Nagaike and along the
banks of the Kizugawa.
6. Lake Biwa, either via Otsu
or over HieUmn, (See next Route
for details.)
ROUTE 44.
Lake Biwa.
kyoto to lake biwa. otsu. i8hi-
yama-deba. miideba. kara-
saki. ascent op hiei-zan. .hi-
kone. nagahama. chikubu-
SHIHA.
1. — General Information.
Glimpses of this beautiful lake,
whose southern and eastern
shores are classic ground^ can be
obtained from the carriage windows
by those travelling on the Tokaid5
Railway between the stations o£
Maibara and Baba ; but they are
glimpses only. To explore the best
portions of the Lake Biwa district
thoroughly, the proper plan is,
taking Kyoto as the starting-point,
to go to Otsu either by rail or jin-
rikisha, or else to go over Hiei-zan,
as explained in detail below, to do
the southern end of. the lake from
Otsu as a centre, and then to take
one of the little lake steamers from
Otsu to Hikone and Nagahams,
returning to Otsu by rail, and
thence either westwards to Kyoto
or eastwards in the direction of
Yokohama.
The Lake of Omi, generally called Lake
Biwa {Biwa-ko in Japanese) on account of
a fancied resemblance between its shape
and that of the Chinese guitar, is about 3ft
m. long and 12 m. wide. Its area is ap-
proximately equal to that of the Lake of
Geneva. Its height is stated by Dr. Rein
to be about 100 metres (3.33 ft.) above the
level of the sea ; and its greatest depth is
said to l3e the same, but in most places is
much less. From Katata towards Seta it
becomes very narrow, while the northern
part is oval in shape. On the "W. side the
mountain ranges of Hiei-zan and Hira-
yama descend nearly to the shore, while
on the K. a wide plain extends between
Musaand Toriimoto towards the boundary
of Mino. There are a few small islands in
the lake, of which Chikubu-shima neeur
the N. end is the most celebrated. Ac-
cording to a legend long finnly believed in
by the Japanese, the lake was produced
by an earthquake in the year 286 B.C.*
while Mount Fuji rose out of the plains of
Suruga at the same moment. Constant
reference is made in Japanese poetry vuSL
818
Boute 44. — Lake Biwa,
art to the ' Eight Beauties of Omi ' ( Omi
Hdk-kei)t the idea of which was derived,
like most other Japanese things, from
China, where there are or were eight
beauties at a place called Siao-Siang. The
Sight Beauties of Omi are : the Autumn
Moon seen from Ishijama, the Evening
finow on Hirayama, the Blaze of Evening
at Seta, the Evening Bell of Miidera, the
Boats sailing back from Yabase, a Bright
Bky ^vith a Breeze at Awazu, Rain by-
Night at Karasaki, and the Wild Geese
sighting at Katata. As usual, conven*
tion enters a good deal into this Japanese
choice of specially lovely scenes ; but all
foreigners will admit the great general
iieauty of the southern portion of the lake.
A new feature— useful though not
"beautiful— added to the neighbourhood of
Otsu by the modem thirst for progress is
the Lake Biica Canal, Ijegun in 18U5, and
consisting of two branches, one for pur-
poses of navigation, the other for irriga-
tion and water power. The main branch
is 6| m. long, the secondary branch 5i m.,
the total fall 143 ft. Some portions of the
Canal are open, others pass through long
tunnels. The main branch connects with
the Kamogawa, the river by which Kyoto
is watered. At Keage near the entrance
of the city, where the branches divide,
the boat traffic is worked by an inclined
plane, the boats being put into a wheeled
cradle, which is pulled up and let down
by mea^s of a wire rope 'worked by
"water power from the Canal above. From
the foot of this plane there is another
Btretch of open Canal, with a regulating
lock between it and the river. A curious
]>ersonal item worth mentioning jn con-
nection with this Canal is the fact that
the idea of it originated with a young
student of the College of Engineering at
Tokyo, who, having propoimded it in his
graduation essay, obtained pennission to
put it into practice liim.«4elf, and thus,
though a mere youth and though deprived
of the use of his right hand— all his draw-
ings having been beautifully executed
with his left — rose immediately to the
position of one of the leading engineers in
the country. His name is Tanabe Sakuro.
The Canal was opened to traffic in the
spring of 1890, and while answering the
purposes for which it was intended, has
not verified the fears of some who im-
agined that the level of the lake would lie
I)ermanently lowered. The cost of the
undertaking is officially stated at Ik mil-
lion jfen. The natural drainage of the
lake is by a river flowing out of its 8. end,
which bears in succession the names of
Setagawa, Ujigawa, and Yodogawa. It
^sses close to Fushimi, a suburb of
jS^jotOt and falls into the sea at Osaka.
_ Small steamers ply daily between
Otsu and Hikone, Maibara, and
Nagahama on the E. coast of the
lake, and along the W. coast be-
tween Otsn, Katata, Eatsmio, eto.,
on the W. coast, ending up at
Shiotsu on the N. extremity.
2. — ^^Kyoto to Otsu bt Jinrikisha.
Otsu and NEiaHBOUBHOOD.
The run from Kyoto to Otsu by
the TokaidS Railway takes about
f hr. The Otsu station, called
Ilabau stands some way out of the
town. For this reason, and also
on account of the excellence of
the highway, which is part of the
historic Tokaido and still retains
some of the bustle and pictur-
esqueness of former days, many
prefer to do the distance by
jinrikisha. One may also thus
advantageously combine a visit to
the Kinlcozan Potteries at Awata on
the E. outskirt of Kyoto, which are
extensive and most interesting, the
visitor being shown the whole
process, from the kneading of the
clay to the painting in gold and
colours and the firing of the com-
pleted pieces. Leaving Awata, we
pass 1. the Lake Biwa Canal, just
at the place (Keage) where the
portage by rail takes place.
After ascending a gentle rise called
Hino-oka-toge, we next see r. the
former Execution Ground (shi-obi~
ha), now turned into a rice-field,
and then 1. the Tiimvlus of Tenji
Tennoy a Mikado of the 7th
century. It is a mound overgrown
with pine-trees, like all the hill-
sides hereabout. The vill. of Yania-
shina, which stands on the
boundary betweenthe provinces of
Yamashiro and Omi, and which
has filrnished a title to one of
Japan's Imi)erial Princes, is soon
reached, and after it the villages of
Oiwake and Otani, where the high-
road and the railway run side by
side. The gentle hill next ascend-
ed is called Osaka (properly Au
saka, ' the hill of meeting,* of course
having nothing^ whatever to do
with the city of Osaka).
On the top formerly stood a barrier, or
oetroif constantly referred to in Japanese
Otsu. Miidera, Pine-tree of KarasdkL
31^
poetry, and thus described by Semi-maro,
one of tbe bards of the Hyuku-nin Ig-shUf
or • Century of Poets,' in a stanza which
every Japanese knows by heart :
The stranger here from distant lands.
The friend his home-bound friend may
greet.
For on this hill the barrier stands,
The gate where all must part and meet.
Just over the top of the hill
tliere is a tiny shrine to Semi-
maro. Lake Biwa then comes in
view, and in a minute more we are
Otsn {Hotel, Minarai-tei, semi-
foreign), a flourishing town, capital
of the province of Omi and of the
prefecture of Shiga, standing on
the shore of the lake.
This city has gained an unenviable
place in the annals of contemporary
Japan, through the attempted murder
there of the (Jzare witch on the 11th May,
189 1 . The would-be assassin, Tsuda Sanzo,
had distinguished himSelf on the loyal
aide in the Satsuma Rebellion, and having
Bubsequently entered the police service,
was actually on duty at the time as one
of the Czarewitch's guards. Some of the
good people of Otsu proposed to alter the
name of their city, which had thus become
infamous ; but though such changes are
by no means rare in Japan, this particular
suggestion has not been adopted.
On a hill close to the town stands
the famous Buddhist temple of
Miidera, dedicated to Kwannon.
This monastery was founded in A.D. 675
by the Emperor Tenji, and rebuilt in magni-
ficent style in the following centuiy. The
present structure, which dates only from
16SM), is poor. The granite obelisk is quite
modem, having been erected to the
memory of the soldiers from this prefec-
ture who fell fighting on the loyal side
against the Satsuma rebels.
The view is entrancing, espe-
cially from the obelisk. On the
spectator's extreme 1. is Hiei-zan,
then Hirayama; next, in faint
outline, the island of Chikubu-
shima near the N. end of the lake,
with the high land of Echizen
behind; straight ahead are other
mountains not specially famous,
excepting jwinted Chomeiji-yama,
and Mikami-yama, (Mukade-yama)
shaped like a miniature Fuji. To
the extreme r. is Tanakami-zan. At
the spectator's feet ai-e the lake and
the town of Otsu, with the Canal
coming straight towards^ hinl.
Not quite Ij ri N. of Otsu, along
the W. shore of the lake by a
level jinrikisha road, is EaraSaiki,.
famous all over Japan for its giant
pine-tree, which is one of the most
curious trees in the world and
perhaps the very largest of its
species — not in height, but in
extent. Its dimensions are stated
as follows ;
Height, over 90 ft.
Circumference of trunk, over 37 „
Length of branches from
E. to W 240 „
Length of branches from N.
to S 288 „
Number of branches, over... 380 „
Most of the branches spread
downwards and outwards, fan-like,
towards the ground, being in
most places so low that one has
to crouch in order to pass under
them, and are supported by a
whole scaffolding of wooden legs
and stone cushions. The holes in
the trunk are carefully stopped
with plaster, and the top of the
tree has a little roof over it to
ward off the rain from a spot
supposed to be delicate. In front
of this tree, for which immemorial
age has gained the reputation of
sanctity, stands a trumpery little
Shinto shrine called Karasaki Jinja.
Those having time to spare should
continue on 20 chd further aloncr
this road to Sflkamoto (several
inns), where, on the slope of Hiei-
zan, embosomed among tall pines
and cryptomerias, is a large Shinto-
tetaple dedicated to Hiyoshi, or
Sanno Sama, the god of the moun-
tain, together with a number of
subsidiary shrines, some so small as
almost to look like toys. The still-
ness of the now half-deserted
temples, the shade of the grand
old trees, and the plashing of rills of
water through the spacious grounds,
produce a charming impression.
No spot could be better fitted for a
:S20
Route 44, — Lake Bivca.
picnic. There are two more Shinto
shrines 8 cho higher up the hill.
The best expedition on the oppo-
site, or S.E., side of Otsu is to tile
long bridge of Seta and the temple
of Ishiyama-dera, a charming jin-
rikisha ride. After leaving Otsu,
one passes through Zeze, which is
practically a suburb of Otsu (most
Japanese prefer the Sakamoto-ya
inn at Zeze to any of those at
•Otsu). Observe r. the barn-like
temple of Empuku-in, with quaint
images — some painted, some un-
painted — of the Five Hundred
Bahan seated on shelves placed
round three sides of the hall.
On leaving Zeze, the road leads
over a sort of common called
Awazu-no-hara. Here the culti-
vated plain to the r., the avenue
of pine-trees lining the road, the
blue lake to the 1., and the hills
encircling the horizon — some
brilliantly green with pine-trees,
some bare and white, some blue in
the distance, with broad spaces
between, and the cone of Mikami-
yama ahead — this tout ensenible
forms an ideal picture of tranquil
and varied loveliness. Two cho
past the vill. of Torigawa, stands
the celebrated
Long Bridge of Seta (Seta no
Naga-hashi), spanning the waters
of the lake at the picturesque
spot where it narrows to form
the Setagawa, so called from the
vill. of Seta on the opposite bank.
A bridge has existed in this spot
from the earliest times. The pre-
sent structure was last repaired in
1875. Properly speaking, the
bridge is two bridges, there being
an island in mid-stream, on which
they meet. The first bridge is 215
Japanese ft. long, the second 576
ft. A tiny Shinto shrine on the op-
posite bank of the river, to the r., is
dedicated to the memory of Tawara
Toda Hidesato, a famous hero of
romance, who is said to have lived
in the tenth century. The follow-
ing legend concerning him and. the
Long Bridge and « Mikami-3r&in&
hard by, which is also called.
Mukade-yama, that is. Centipede
Mountain, is taken from tlie
'Japanese Fairy Tale Series/
where it bears the title of
My Lord BAQ-O'-EiCE.f
Once upon a time there was a brave
warrior, called My Lord Bag-o'-Rice, Mr bo
spent all his time in waging war ag&inat
the Mikado's enemies.
One day, when he had sallied fortli. to
seek adventures, he came to the Lonfc
Bridge of Seta, spanning the river just ctt
the place where it flows out of the Lake.
Wnen he set foot on this bridge, he s&vr
that a Serpent twenty feet long was lyinfc
there basking in the sun, in such a wfty
that he could not cross the bridge withoat
treading on it. Most men would have
taken to their heels at so frightful a siglit.
But My Lord Bag-o'-Rice was not to be
daunted. He simply walked right ahead, —
squash, scrunch, over the Serpent's body.
Instantly the Serpent turned into a tiny-
Dwarf, who, humbly bowing the knee*
and kncKking the planks of the bridge
three times with his head in token of
respect, said : * My Lord ! you are &
man, you are ! For many a weary day
have I lain here, waiting for one who
should avenge mc on mine enemy. But all
who saw me were cowards and ran away.
You will avenge me, will you not? X
live at the bottom of this lake, and my
enemy is a Centipede who dwells at the
top of yonder mountain. Come along with
me, I lieseech you. If you help me not, I
am undone.'
The Warrior was delighted at havinK
found such an adventure. He wil-
lingly followed the Dwarf to his
summer-house beneath the waters of the
lake. It was all curiously built of coral
and metal sprays in the shape of sea-weed
4ind other water-plants, with fresh-water
crabs as big as men, and water-monkeys,
and newts, and tadpoles, as ser\-ant8 and
body-guai-ds. When they had restcid
awhile, dinner was brought in on trays
shapetl like the leaves of water-lilies. The
dishes were water-cress leaves,— not real
ones, but much more beautiful than real
ones ; for they were of water-green porce-
lain with a shimmer of gold ; and the
chopsticks were of beautiful petrified
wood, like black ivoiy. As for the wine in
the cups, it looked like water; but as
it iaitted all right, what did its looks
signify ?
Well, there they were, feasting and
singing ; and the Dwarf had just pledged
fTowara, part of the
means 'rice-bag.*
hero*8 name*
Long Bndge of Seta, IsJiiyama-dera.
821
tlie Warrior in a goblet of hot steaming
'wine, when thud ! thud ! thud ! like the
tramp of an army, the fearful monster of
'wbom the Dwarf had spoken was heard
approaching. It sounded as if a conti-
nent were in motion ; and on either side
there seemed to be a row of a thousand
men with lanterns. But the Wanior was
able to make out, as the danger drew
nearer, that all this fuss was made by a
single creature, an enormous Centipede
over a mile long ; and that what had
seemed like men with lanterns on either
side of it, were in reality its own feet, of
w^hich it had exactly one thousand on
each side of its bod^, all of them glisten-
ing and glinting with the sticky poison
tliat oozed out of eveiy pore. There was
no time to be lost. The Centipede was
already half-way down the mountain. So
the Warrior snatched up his bow— a bow
so big and heavy that it would have taken
five ordinaiy men to pull it— fitted an
arrow into the bow-notch, and let fly.
He was not , one ever to miss his aim.
The arrow struck right in the middle of
the monster's forehead. But alas ! it
rebounded as if that forehead had been I
•made of brass. j
A second time did the Warrior take his ,
bow and shoot. A second time did the i
arrow strike and rebound ; and now the
dreadful creature was down to the water's
edge, and would soon pollute the lake
with its filthy poison. Said the Warrior
to himself: 'Nothing kills Centipedes
so surely as human spittle.' And with
these words, he spat ui^ou the tip of the
only arrow that remained to him, — for
there had been but three in his quiver.
This time again the aiTow hit the Centi-
pede right in the middle of the forehead.
But instead of rebounding, it went right
in and came out again at the back of the
creature's head, so that the Centipede
fen down dead, shaking the whole
country-side like an earthquake ; and the
poisonous light on its two thousand feet
darkened to a dull glare like that of l^e
twilight of a stormy day.
Then the Warrior found himself wafted
back to his own castle ; and round him
stood a row of presents, on each of which
were inscribed the words, ' From your
grateful Dwarf.' One of these presents
was a large bronze bell, which the War-
rior, who was a religious man as well as a
brave one, hung up in the temple that
contained the tombs of his ancestors. The
second was a sword, which enabled him
ever after to gain the victory over all his
enemies. The third was a suit of armour
which no arrow could penetrate. The
fourth was a roll of silk which never grew
smaller, though he cut off large pieces
from to time to make himself a new court
dress. The fifth was a Img of rice, which,
though he took from it day after day for
mea£ for himself, his family, and his
trusty retainers, never got exhausted as
kmg as he lived. And it was from this
fifth and last present that he took his
name and title of ' My Lord Bag-o'-Rice ; *
for all the people thought that there was
nothing stranger in the whole world than
this wonderful bag, which made its owner
such a rich and happy man.
Eeturning to the vill. of Tori-
gawa, we follow for a short
distance down the r. bank of the
Setagawa to
Isiiiyania-dora. In the vill. just
before reaching the temple are
numerous tea-houses where lunch
may conveniently be taken.
This famous monastery was founded in
749 by the monk liyoben tsOjo, in obedience
to a command of the Emperor Shomu.
h aving been destroyed by fire in 1076, it was
rebuilt a century later by Yoritomo. The
present main temple was built by Todo-
(jrimi, the mother of Hideyori, towards the
end of the 16th century. The name Ishi-
j/ama-dera, lit, 'the temple of the rocky
mountain,' is derived from some large black
rocks of fantastic shape, which crop up out
uf the soil in the middle of the grounds,
and have been utilised by the priests for
purposes of landscape gardening.
The temple grounds occupy the
lower part of a thickly wooded hill
on the r. bank of the river, and
extend almost down to the water's
edge. Passing along an avenue of
maple-trees and ascending a flight
of steps, the visitor reaches the
platform where stand the already-
mentioned black rocks, above which '
again is the Main Temple, dedicated
to the Two-Armed Omnipotent
Kwannon. The building, which is
partly supported on piles, is dingy
within. The altar is so dark that
the image of Kwannon can scarcely
be distinguished. It is 16 ft.
high, and is attributed to Ryo-
ben. In its interior is hidden the
real object of worship, a small
image six inches in height, once
owned by the famous Prince Sho-
toku Taishi. On pillars in front
of the altar hang prayer-wheels
and a fortune-box (o mikuji-hako) ,
the latter being a cylinder con-
taining little braas chopsticks
marked with notches, — one, two,
three, and so on up to twelve. The
anxious enquirer shakes one of
S22
BouU 4^. — Lake Biwa.
these out of a email liole at one end '
of the cylinder, notes the nnmber
of notches on it, and then reads
off, from a board banging higher
np, a verse containing what may
be called his fortune, bnt is in
many cases rather a short homily
addressed to his characteristic de-
fect. The date inscribed on the
cylinder is 188S. The paper labels
that will be noticed on the pillars
are stack there by pilgrims, and
contain their names, addresses, and
date of pilgrimage — are in fact a •
sort of visiting card. The small .
image near the entrance is Bisha-
mon. A little room to the r., known
as the Qenji no Ma, is said to
have been occupied by Muraisaki
Shikibn, a famous authoress of
about A.D. 1000, during the com- ;
position of her great romance, the
Genji Monogaiari. A small fee to
the custodian will unlock the door, .
and enable the visitor to inspect |
the ink-slab she used, a M.S. Bud- '
dhist Sutra said to be in her hand- |
writing, and some mineralogical '
8X)ecimens.
The grounds contain several
minor temples and other build-
ings. Walking up past the pagoda,
one reaches the TsvJci-mi no Chin,
whose name means literally 'the
Moon-Gazing Arbonr*. This point
affords a charming view of the lake,
the river, the long bridge, and
the mountains enclosing the basin
of the lake to the E., the fore-
ground being, however, somewhat
spoilt by rising ground all along
the 1. bank of the river. Ishi-
yama-dera is famous for the beauty
of its maple-trees in autumn.
All the above can easily be seen
within the limits of one day — Mii-
dera, Karasaki, and Sakamoto
being taken in the morning, and
the Long Bridge with Ishiyama-
dera in a short afternoon. A
second day will, be, required to do
the chief places on the E. shore of
the lake — Hikone and Nagahama^
with perhaps Chikubu-shima.
Hikoae (Inns, * Bakn-rakn-tei,
near the castle-moat, with bean-
tifol garden ; Matsu-ya) is pictu-
resquely situated on the shore of
the lake, and possesses the remains
of a fine feudal castle, formerly tiie
seat of a Daimyo called li-Kamon^
no-Kami. ^
This eaetle was about to perish in the
general min of such bnildines whidi ac-
companied the mania for aU things Emo-
pean and the contempt of their natiooal
antiquities, irhereby the Japanese were
actuated Annns; the first two decades of flie
present rigime. It so chanced, however,
that the Mikado, on a pro^rress throi^|L
Central Japan, spent anight at Hikone*
and finding the local oflScials busy pallioflr
down the old castle, commanded them to
desist. The lover of the picturesque will
probably be more grateful to His Majesty
for this gracions.nct of clemency towards a
doomed edifice than for many scores of the
improvements which the present GoYem*
ment has set on foot, more especially when
the so-Citlled Improvements relate to axdd-
tecture.
About 3^ ri from Hikone, in the
hills towards Seki-ga-hara, is a fish-
breeding establishment (Yogydba),
where salmon and salmon-trout aro
reared according to the most ap-
proved modem methods. The place
may be also reached from Maibara
station, whence the distance is but
2 ri 13 eho,
Nagahama {Inn, Masu-ya at rail-
way station), also on the lake, is
the finest town between Otsu and
Tsuruga, and enjoys a delightful
vifw.
This place is celebrated for its crape
cnlled Hamn-chirimen, for taumngi woven
from spun silk, and for mosquito netting,
most of which is made in the surrounding;
villages by weavers who receive the thread
from the dealerzt in the town and return it
to them made up. tWhen the crape comes
from the weavers, it presents the appearance
of gauze, and has to be boiled by persons
called nerii/a. Upon drying it shrinks con-
siderably in breadth, and assumes the
wrinkled texture proper to crape. There
are two qualities, one peifectly white,
which alone is suitable fur dyeing scarlet,
and another of a pale bluish tint, which
will take all other dyes. A large quantity
of the raw silk used in this manufacture is
produced in the neighbourhood.
The island of Chikiiba-shiina,
which is not often touched at by
Chikuhmhhna. Hid-zan,
d28
1ih.e lake steamers, can be reached
from Nagahama, 3 ri by boat. A
better plan still is to take a jinriki-
sha from Nagahama to the vill. of
Hayazaki, whence it is only a
passage of 50 chd. Eemember that
Liake Biwa^ like most lakes, is
subject to sudden squalls, so that
it is always advisable to engage
■ana. extra boatman in case of need.
Ch-ikubu-shima, which is high and
tbickly wooded, has a small temple
-to the goddess Benten. It is a
^wronderful sight, at the approach
of evening, to see the birds flock-
ing in thousands to the island to
roost.
The return journey by train
from Nagahama to Otsu calls for
no special description, the moun-
tains etc. that are seen being those
already often mentioned.
•3. — Kyoto to Otsu over Hiei-zan.
This delightful alternative way
of reaching Otsu fronl Kyoto may
foe taken either on foot or on horse-
back, jinrikishas also being avail-
able for about li ri at the begin-
ning of the excursion and for 2 ri
at the end, from Sakamoto (see p.
319)_along the shoye of Lake Biwa
to Otsu. The whole trip can be
accomplished on ponies in about 6
hrs., or say one short day, includ-
ing a picnic on the mountain. The
same time is required if, instead
of proceeding on to Otsu, the party
prefer to return to Kyoto. In
either case the day's programme
may be so arranged, on starting
from Kyoto, as to include a visit
to Ginkakujl and Shugaku-in (the
latter only for those having admis-
sion to the Kyoto palaces, see p.
287). The view from the summit
of Hiei-zan is among the finest in
Japan, comprising, as it does, a
magnificent panorama of the
valley of Kyoto and of Lake Biwa
and its shores. Only towards the
N. is the prospect cut off by Hira-
yama. Arrangements should be
made for lunching at the summit.
in order to enjoy the view at
leisure. The spot, known by the
name of Shimei-ga-take, is grassy,
and rises to a height of some 2,700
ft. above the sea level.
The original name of Hiei-zan was Hie-
no-yama, perhaps meaning the 'ChiUy
Mountain ;* and the Shinto temple of Hie
at Sakamoto at the E. foot of the moun-
tain, popularly known as SannS Sama,
is called after it. During the middle
ages Hiei-zan was covered with Buddhist
temples and seminaries, the total aggre-
gate of such buildings heiag stated at the
extraordinary number of 3,000; and the
monks, who were often ignorant, truculent,
and of disorderly habits, became the terror
of Kyoto, on which peaceful city they
would sweep down ofter the manner of
banditti. At last, in the 16th century, the
great warrior Nobunaga, in order to re-
venge himself upon the monks for having^
sided with his enemy Asakura, Lord of
Echizen, attacked the temples and com-
mitted them to the flames. The monka
were dispersed far and w^ide until the
accession to power of the Tokugawa Sh9-
gruns, who re-established the institntioa
on a smaller scale, the number of the
seminaries being limited to 125.
On the way down the mountain
towards the lake many now de-
serted shrines are passed, till at
the base the fine temple buildings
just above the vill. of Sakamoto
are reached. The way thence into
Otsu is through Sakamoto and
Karasaki, where a halt should be
made to look at the giant pine-
tree (see p. 319).
d24
Eoute 45. — Nara and NeUflibourhood,
ROUTE 45.
NaBA and NsiaHBOUAUOOD.
Nara is now best reached by
train from Osaka. One of the
intermediate stations, Horyuji, pos-
sesses considerable interest.
Osaka-Naba Eailwat.
Distance
from
Osaka.
Names
of
Stations.
Remarks.
2}m.
n
10
i5i
18
22*
26*
OSAKA (Minato-
machi).
Tennoji.
Hirano.
Yao
(Alight for
V temple of
( Shigi-sen.
rChange for
1 Takada and
( Sakurai.
KasliiwalMira.
dii
Horj'aji.
Koriyama.
NARA.
_ The line, leaving the S.E. end of
Osaka, passes along a wide, cul-
tivated plain encircled at a con-
siderable distance by mountains,
those ahead and to the r. being the
monntains of Yamato, the province
in which Nara stands. The scenery
is picturesque between Kashiwa-
bara and Oji, after which latter
place on to Nara it becomes
flat.
I'rom Yao it is 50 did to Shigi-sen,
the scene of a famous victory by
Shotoku Taishi over the rebel Mo-
nonobe-no-Moriya. The temple is
dedicated to Bishamon, who is sup-
posed to have lent his assistance
to the victor. It is adorned with the
crest of centipedes peculiar to that
divinity. There is rather a good
view.
At Kashiwabara is a temple
called Domyoji to which yearly
pilgrimages are made. The viU. of
Horyiiji (Injis, Daikoku - ya,
Xase-ya) takes its name from a
■very ancient monastery, which,
though somewhat battered by time.
well merits a visit from all lovers
of art and antiquity. ^
The monastery of HoryQji is the oldest
Baddhist temple in Japnn, having been
founded by Shotoku Taishi and completed,
in A.D. 607. Owing to its unusually im-
portant collection of art treasures, it has
attracted the attention of art critics and
of the Imperial Grovernment, the latter
having in lfc87 given a sum of the $10,000
towards its support. There is also a local
Hozon-kwai, or Society for the Preservation
of the Temple. The temple is always
open, excepting on certain special occa-
sions. A fee of $1 should be given to the
custodian, who will show the visitor the
various objects of art (reikd-mono) .
Instead of entering by the main
gate, called Ahezu-no-mon-, it is
usual to take a short cut throuf^h
the Hachiman gate close to the inns.
In this way* the Yume-dono is first
visited, and the principal part of
the monastery is taken afterwards.
The Yume-dono, or Hall or Dreams^
an octagonal building in the
centre of an enclosure surrounded
by a closed gallery, is dedicated to
Kwannon.
On the E. of the image of this
goddess is • that of the Eleven-
faced Kwannon (600 years old)^
and on the W., Shotoku Taishi^
J, 100 years old. The Yumedono
is now generally kept closed.
Behind it is a long building, in the-
r. part of which, called the Shari-
den, the pupil of the left eye of
Buddha is kept. It is shown every
day at noon. The walls are covered
with paintings by a Chinese
artist named Shun-in. In the 1.
part of the building, called Go-
Eiden, are wall-pictures repre-
senting the events of the prince's
life, attributed to Hada noChishin,
A.D. 1069. In this room is the
ancient bronze image caUed the
YumB'tagai no Kitxinnon, which is
invoked to counteract the effects of
bad dreams. Other buildings near
by are the Denibo-do connected by a
small bridge, and Sogenji.
Leaving this part of the monas-
tery, we pass through a gate-
way and come to a buildings
which contains a small eques-
Temple of Hdryuji,
825
trian statue of Shotoku Taishi
subduing Moriya-no-Daijin ; the in-
cident is depicted in greater detail
upon the ex-voto painting outside.
In the corresponding building, call-
ed Taishi-do or 8hdry6-in, .which
is said to be in the same style as
the Shishin-den or Chief Reception
Hall of the ancient palace of Nara,
is an image of the prince at the
age of 35, attributed to himself,
and a Nyo-i-rin Kwannon and Jizo
by a Korean sculptor of the 6th
century.
We now approach the chief
temples, which are contained in an
oblong enclosure surrounded by a
large closed gallery or hwairo. The
Ni'd in the two-storied gateway are
remarkable statues ; the black one
is carved out of a single cryp-
tomeria trunk, and the red one
opposite is of wood covered with
clay. The Kondo, which stands a
little on the 1. of the entrance,
and the pagoda, are all that are
left of the original buildings, and
are the oldest wooden structures
in Japan, their age being more
than twelve centuries and a half.
The Kondo contains, on the S. side,
a bronze image of Buddha, for-
merly gilt, attributed to Tori Bus-
shi, flanked by Yakuo Bosatsu and
Yakujo Bosatsu. On the E. side
is Yakushi Nyorai, also by Tori
Bnsshi, with Nikko Bosatsu and
Gwakko Bosatsu r. and 1. The W.
side is occupied by Amida, accom-
panied by Kwannon and Seishi.
These three images were cast in
1231 to replace the original ones,
which had been stolen. The wooden
figures of Tamon-Ten and Kichijo-
Ten date also from the middle of
the 13th century. The Shi-Tenno
are by two Chinese sculptors, and
belong to the middle of the 7th cen-
tury. The bronze image of Yaku-
shi and the wooden figure of Fu-
gen are said to have been brought
to Japan by the Indian priest
whose name is translated Zemui.
On the N. side is another bronze
Amida, flanked by Kwannon and
Seishi, said to have belonged to
Komyo Tenno (A.D. 1336 to 1348).
The lanky wooden figure of Koku-
zo Bosatsu, "8 ft. high, and the
wooden Kwannon are said to be
Indian. The walls are covered
with paintings of Buddhist sub-
jects, executed in a noble manner,
attributed to the sculptor Tori
Bus&hi and a Korean priest of the
same early period. These are of
extreme interest and value for the
history of art in Japan. Of their
great antiquity there can be little
doubt, and the excellence of the
style in itself confirms the opinion
that they are the work of Korean
artists, for they are superior to
anything known to* have been
produced by Japanese painters.
The ground-floor of the pagoda con-
tains some very curious tinted
terra-cotta groups ascribed to
Tori Busshi; on the S., Amida
with Kwannon and Daiseishi ;
on the E., Monju and Jomyo
Koji or Yuima; on the N., the
entry of Shaka into Nirvana;
and on the "W. his cremation.
The expression on the countenan-
ces of some of the weeping disciples
is excellent; their costume repre-
sents what was supposed by the
sculptor to be Indian dress. The
Dai'Kodo, or great Lecture Hall,
on the N. side of the closed gallery,
is dedicated to Yakushi and a host
of other deities.
On a mound behind is the Mine
no Yakushi, an octagonal building
dedicated to Yakushi. This image
and the twelve smaller images
representing the Signs of the
Zodiac are attributed to Gyogi
Bosatsu. This temple is a unique
sight, being literally hidden under
the enormous number of short
swords and metal mirrors placed
there as offerings by men and
women respectively, whose prayers
for restoration to health have
proved efficacious. Drills, pre-
sented by persons who have been
826
Route 45. — Kara and NeighbourJtood,
cured of deafness, also line the walls
in great numbers. The Kami no d5,
a building on the r., contains colos-
sal images of Shaka, Monju, Fugen,
the Shjl^Tenno, a group representing
the death of Buddha, and paintings
depicting the eight scenes of his ex-
istence, viz. his birth in theTushita
heaven, his conception by Maya
Bunin, his birth on earth, admission
into the priesthood, temptations,
perfection, preaching, and entry
intoNirv&na. In the building called
Sankyo-in, on the W. side of the
closed gallery, is an image of Sho-
teku Taishi at the age of 42, be-
sides an Amida by Gyogi, a Monju,
a Miroku, and the Shi-Tenno.
The principal annual festival at
Horyiijiis celebrated on the 22nd
day of the 9th moon, according to
the old Japanese calendar.
[Some 12 cho fromHoryuji stands
Tatta, formerly pronounced
Tatsuta, which is famous in
Japanese poetry for the maples
lining the banks of the river
that passes by it. Near Horyuj i
too is the misasagi, or tumulus,
of Suinin Tenno, a prehistoric
Mikado supposed to have
reigned at the beginning of
the Christian era. It is a
large and striking gourd-
shaped mound, planted with
trees and having a broad new
moat round it, and at one end
a small torii forming the ap-
proach, to a neat gravel walk.]
Koriyama (Inn, Kiku-ya). The
walls of Nara, when that city was
the capital, extended almost to what
is now the E. limit of thid town.
Nasa.
Nara, sometimes called Nanto by
the learned (Inn8, Musashino, pret-
tily situated in the park at the
foot of Mikasa-yama; Kado-ya,
convenient central situation ; both
semi-foreign. Also Kiku-ya, Japan-
ese; Jap. restaurant, Sawano-ya,
near Kobukuji).
The chief products of Nara
Indian ink, fans, and little wooden
toy figures of the No performances^
called Nara ningyo.
Nara was the capital of Japan daring
seven reigns, from A.D. 709 to 784, when.
the Emperor Ewammu removed the cott>
of government to the province of Yairut-
shiro. The town has at the present day
probably but a tenth of its former dimen-
sions. It is situated in the North of
Yamato, close to the boundary of Yama-
shiro, and at the foot of a range of moctzi-
tains which runs N. a^d S., rouglily
dividing the upper part of Yamato into
two halves. The site where the palace
stood is about three miles W. of the to^m
on the Hokkeji road.
From the Musashino inn, tlie
chief sights of Nara may be con-
veniently taken in the following*
order on the way back to the rail-
way station.
. Kasnga no Miya.
This temple is dedicated to the ancestor
of the Fujiwara family, the Shinto ^od.
Ama-no-Koyane, to his wife, and to the
gods or mythical heroes Take-mikazuchi
and Futsu-nushi. It is said to have been
founded in the year 767, at the desire of
Take-mikazuchi, who rode up to Nara on
a white deer in search of a new residence,
and then summoned the other three gods
to come and dwell with him there. The
great yearly festival is held on the 17th.
December.
From the inn the path descends
the stops past the shops wh'ere the
Nara ningyo and articles made oat
of deer's horns are sold, crosses a
bridge over a tiny stream called
the Izagawa.) and turns up to the 1.
through a red paintod -tomple de-
dicated to Otozu Tenno, under
which name Susa-no-o is frequently
worshipped. It then continues
through the wood to a clearing at
the back of the tomple, where
tame deer usually congregate in
the expectation of being fed, and,
passing through rows of stone
lanterns of which it is said that
no one knows the number, enters
the Main Temple through a side
gate in the 8vjikai-no-Ma, a gallery
attributed to the famous carver
Hidari Jingoro. The bright red of
the temple edifices and the count-
Kdsuga, TamiUce-yaina. Ni-gwatsU'dd,
827
less brass lanterns with which they
are hunfif, contrast strikingly with
the reposeful green of the magni-
ficent cryptomerias all around and
between the buildings. The open
shed called the Haiya, or Oratory,
where in ancient times the Dai-
niyos used to come to worship, is
now used by the townspeople on
the evening of tha ' Hetsuhun (3rd
February) for the performance of
the ceremony of scattering beans
to expel evil spirits. In the S.W.
<jorner of the outer gallery is a
small shrine to Saruta-hiko, the
god who is supposed to be lord of
the soil.
According to the myth, this |?ocl made
an agreement with the god of Kashima to
lease 3 ft. of eailh to him ; but the latter
fuiiniugly enclosed 3 ri square of ground
tlirring the night, pretending that the
• three £eet * in the ctmtract referred only
to the depth of soil. It is the popular
l>elief that, in conaetiuence of this trick
x)f Take-mikazuchi, no ti-ee on Kasuga-
yama sends its roots more tlian 3 ft. below
the surface.
At the end of a long avenue of
standing lanterns to the r. of the
Main Temple stands the Wakamiya,
a temple dedicated to Ama-no-oshi-
kumo, son of Ama-no-koyane.
Many of the lanterns which line
the approach are lighted every
night. Formerly, when the annual
subscriptions for that purpose were
liberal, all were lighted, and the
43ffect produced among the dark
evergreens of the gi'ove was
highly picturesque. In front are
an oi)en shed where pilgrims
bow down, and a long low building
occupied by the priests. A few
young girls are in attendance
to perform the ancient dance
<»lled kagura. Their dress consists
■of a pair of wide red trowsers, a
white under- garment, and a long
gauzy mantle adorned with the
Kasuga crest of wistaria. Their
hair is gathered into a long tr^ss
which hangs down behind j a chap-
let of artificial flowers — the wis-
taria and scarlet single camellia, —
is worn on the forehead, and the
face is plastered thickly with white-
lead powder. The girls hold in
their hands, as the dance proceeds,
now a fan, and now a bunch of
small bells. The orchestra consists
of three priests who perform on the
drum and flute, and sing a hymn.
The payment demanded is from 50
sen up to $10, according to the
length of the performance. The
Oka-no-in, a temple beyond the
Wakamiya, is uninteresting.
Returning to the Musashino inn
the way he came,* the traveller can
go for a short way by jinrikisha
through the wood to the
• Tamuke-yania no Hachiman, an-
other red and white Shinto temple,
now somewhat decayed, but cele-
brated in Japanese poetry as the
scene of an ode by Sugawara-no-
Michizane, included in the famous
* Century of Poets ' (Hyaku-nin Is-
shu), which all Japanese have by
heart. It says :
KoHo iahi tea
Nuw. iuo iui'i-aezu
Tumnke-mma^
Momiji no nitthiki
Kami ho hiani-mani
which mfcy be roughly rendered
thus :
* This time I bring with me no
offerings; the gods may take to
their hearts* content of the damask
of -the maple-leaves on Mount
Tamuke' — the allusion being to
the maple-trees which grow in
plenty on this spot. The brightly
coloured biural picture in the build-
ing 1. on entering represents the
encounter at the E>ashd-mon in
Kyoto between Watanabe-no-Tsu-
na and the ogre. Leaving Tamuke-
yama, and passing the temples of
San-gwatsu-do and Shi-gwatsu-do,
now too much decayed to deserve
more than a parenthetical re-
ference to the great gaunt images
contained in them, we reach the
Ni-griratsii-do, a fine Buddhist
temple of original aspect. It seems
to cling to the side of the hill
against which it is built out on
B28
Eoute 45, — Kara and NeigJilourhood.
piles, and is led up to by a
steep flight of stone steps, while
a perfect cloud of metal lanterns
liung all along the front lend their
quota of peculiarity to the general
appearance. Parallel to the flight
of steps on the other side, is a
gallery called Taimatsu no Roka, or
Torch Gallery, because torch-light
processions wend their way up it
on the great festival night, the 3rd
February. It is believed to be
miraculously preserved against
danger from fire. The view over
the town from the front is fine,
magnificent timber and the tiled
roof of the Hall of the Daibutsu
l)eing the most noticeable features.
The Ni-grwatsn-do, which is dedicwted to
Kwannon, was founded in A.D. 752, though
the present buildinar is only about two cen-
turies old. Aooording to tne leeend, a tiny
copper image of Kwiinnon had been picked
tip, which possessed the miraculous qua-
lity of being w.^rm likf livinar flesh. Evei:
8tiice it WHS enshrined in this temple, the
custom has been i.o hold a special series
of services called Datton no Okonni during
the first hnlf of the second month of the
year, whence the name Ni-gwatsu-do (Hall
of the Second Moon). TJ-e image is ex-
posed for udoiation on the 18.h of each
month.
Descending the Torclf Gallery,
we reach a well called Wakasa no
J, contained in a small building
which is opened only on the 1st
February of each year.
The les-end siys that when the founder
dedicited the temple, the god of On>tiin
the province of Wnkasa begged leave to
provide the holy water, whereupon a white
«nd a black cormorant flew out of the rock
and disappeared, while water gushed forth
from the hole. From that time the str»am
wh ch had flowed past tlte chapel of Onytl
dried un. its waters having been transferred
to the Ni-gwrttsu-do. L ical report tells of
tinbelievers having become convinced <»f the
truth of the miracle by throwing rice-husks
into the original spring in WakasH, which
turned up after a due interval in the
spring here at Nara.
We next reach the enclosure of
Todaiji, first passing the famous
bell which hangs in a substantial
belfry,
This great bell was cas^ in AD. 732. Its
measurements are height 13 ft. 6 in.,
greatest diameter 9 ft. 1.3 in., and ete&teBt
thicknes«i at the edge 8.4 in. (Japane«?»
measure). Nearly 36 tons of copper and
1 ton of tin were used in the casting.
and then proceeding downhill
through the wood to the hugre,
imgainly building which contains
the Daibiitsn, or Gigantic Image of
Buddha, larger than the one -at
Kamakura, though much less ad-
mirable as a work of art.
Foimded by f^homu Tenn5, the temple
of Todaiji w«8 completed about the year
760, but on a mnch grander scale than it
now presents. The actual building con-
taining the Daibutsu, though it dwtes only
frofn the beginninsr of the 18th centnry, is
already much wenther-wom and out»»f the-
pen>pndicular. Its dimensions are stated
as follows: height 156 ft., length of front
2£0ft., depth 170 ft.
The Hall has recently been so
arranged that one may enter with-
out taking one's boots off. Indeed
the whole place has lost its religious
character, the side and back part
of the building having been turned
into an exhibition, thus producing
an impression of desecration which
is extremely painful. The height
of the image is said to be
53 ft., or 7 ft. higher than the
Daibutsu at Kamakui*a. It is in a
sitting posture, with the legs
crossed, the right hand uplifted,
with the palm outwards and the tips
of the fingers about on a level with
the shoulder, and the left hand rest-
ing on the knee with the back of the
fingers towards the spectator. The
body of the image and all the most
ancient part of the lotus-flowers
on which it is seated are apparently
formed of plates of bronze 10 in. by
12 in., soldered together, except
the modern parts, which are much
larger castings. The petals of the
reversed lotus seem to be single
castings, and the head, which is
much darker in colour, also looks
like a single piece. A peculiar
method of construction is said to-
have been adopted — namely, of
gradually building up the walls of
the mould as the lower part of the
casting cooled, instead of construct-
ing the whole mould first, and
The Daibutsu.
829
then making the casting in a single
piece. The thickness of the casting
varies from 6 in. to 10 in. The
original parts of the upturned
lotus forming the image's seat, are
engraved with representations of
Buddhist gods and of Shumisen
(Sanskrit, Sumet'u), the central axis
of the universe, surrounded by
various tiers of heavens. Here
and there traces of substantial
gilding are visible, which lead to
the conjecture that the whole
image was probably gilt when first
made. The modern head is ugly,
owing to its black colour, and to
its broad nostrils and swollen
cheeks. Behind it rises up a
briglftly gilt wooden glory con-
taining large images of Bosatsu.
Visitors are allowed to walk up a
scaffolding to inspect the upper
and back parts of the image. On
the Daibutsu's r. hand is a gilt
image of Kokuzo Bosatsu, which,
though 18 ft. high, looks as nothing
in comparison. To the 1. is a Nyo-i-
rin Kwannon of the same size.
Both these subordinate images
-date from the beginning of the 18th
century.
Tlie history of the Xara Daibutsii is as
follows. In the year 736 the Empei-or Sho-
rn ii conceived the idea of constructing a
colossal Buddhist image, but fearing to
-offend the native gods, sent the priest
Gyogi to the Sun-Goddess's temple in Ise
to present her with a relic of Buadha, and
find out h6w she would regard his project,
iiyogi passed seven days and nights at
the foot of a tree close to her gate, at the
«nd of which time the chapel doors flew
open, and a loud voice i)ioncuaced an
oracular sentence which was interpreted
in a favourable sense. On the night after
the priest's return, the MiUado dreamt
that the Sun-Goddess api)eared to him, and
announced her approval of his plan of
■erecting a Buddhist temple, and be in con-
tie* pience determined to have an image
160 ft. high made of gold and copper. A
proclamation was issued in 74i, calling
ujwn the people to contribute, and in 744
the Mikado himself directed the construc-
tion of the model. The image was to \ye
<'ast at Shigaraki in Omi, the then capital;
Vmt two years later the Court removed to
Nam, and the image was not completed.
In 747 Shomu began the casting of an-
other image, and with his own hands
carried earth to form the platform.
Eight attempts in all were made, whicb.
were finally crowned with success ia
749. As Japan had not up to that time
produced any gold, the Mikado was
in despair lest he should not be able
to procure enough of that metal to gild it
all over; but the discoveiy of gold ia
Osha in the same year came oi)portunely
to supply the want. In b59 the head erf
the image fell off, but was replaced. In.
llbO the whole building was destroyed by
fire in a civil war, and the head of the
image was melted by the flames, but both
temple and image were restored fifteen,
years later. The temple was bjirnt again
in 1567, and once more the head of the
image fell off. It wafe replaced not long
after at the expense of a private in-
dividual. From this time the tinage re-
mained exposed to the elements in the
condition of a nure-botoke (wet-god), as
the Japanese familiarly sav, until the
reconstruction of the temple some 130
years later. The deity represented is
Koshana, or Birushana', an impersonation
of light— a Buddhist personage easily
identified by priestly ingenuity with the
ShintS Sun-Goddess.
Immediately behind the great
image are shown some eighth cen-
tury masks, tiles of the original
temple, a coloured statuette of the
abbot Kokei Shonin who built the
present edifice, etc., etc. The Ex-
hibition proper — the exhibits being-
set out in cases all round the inner
walls of the Daibutsu-do — is ex-
tremely interesting, for the antique
objects shown are very numerous
and undoubtedly genuine. To begin
with, there is a large number of
ancient wooden statues, chiefly
Buddhistic, brought together from
various smaller temples in Nara
and elsewheie. Some of them re-
tain traces of rich colouring. Then
there are carvings in high-relief of
the 12 followers of Yakushi, at-
tributed to Kobo Daishi and evi-
dently very old, — a grotesque but
spirited set. Next we come to
some curious old reliquaries, mo-
dels, musical instruments, swords,
ancient boxes, articles in lacquer,
pottery and porcelain, woven stuffs,
masks used in the pantomimic
dances of early days, and horse-
trappings. At the end are some
absurd peep-shows.
In the spacious courtyard in.
830
Iloute 45. — yara and NeighhoiirlioocL
front of the Daibutsu-do is a
remarkable ancient octag^onal
bronze lantern, with Buddhist
images and conventional animals.
It is ascritel to a Chinese artist of
the 8th century, and is ore of the
earliest specimens of snch work.
Behind the Dai)mtsn-do, in the
wood, is a celibrated store-house
in which, over 1,000 years ago,
specimens of all the articles then
in daily use were put away, thus
forming an invaluable archseolo-
^ical niusenm, which, however, is
nnforttinately not open to the
public. The visitor leaves the
grounds of Todaiji and its Daibutsu
by two large gates, called respec-
tively Niten-mon and Ni-o-nion. The
latter has in the exterior niches a
colossal pair of Ni-o^ which are
considered admirable specimens of
that class of sculpture. They are
attributed to Kwaikei, about the
year 1095. The interior niches
contain a remarkable pair of stone
lions of unknown date. Joining
the great avenue which leads
up to the temple of Kasuga, but
walking down instead of uj) it and
passing through the large toHi, we
come to the Kiku-ya Hotel, beyond
which, to the r., is the Buddhist
temple of
Kobakiiji, conspicuous by its two
pagodas. This once grand temple,
foui\dcd in A.D. 7J0, was biumt in
1717 and retains little of its ancient
splendour. The following build-
ings may be mentioned : — the
Tokondo, dedicated to Yakushi
Nyorai ;
The enormous pine-tree with spreadinjj
branches supported on poles in fnnit of the
TSkonrtd is said to have Ijeen planted by
Kdbo Daishi as a perpetual offering to the
god Yakushi, instead of flowers.
the Kondo, which is full of excel-
lent ancient wooden statues, amidst
a crowd of which will be distin-
guished a pair of Ni-o, remarkable
for their correct anatomy, and
considered by some connoisseurs
to be the best examples of wood-
carving to be found in Japan?
and the Nan-endo, an octag-onal
building containing two colossal
images of Kwannon.
The octapronBl shape of the buildings '»
taken from the fabulous Buddhist moun-
tain Fudaraku-sen (Sanskrit, Fofft/tt},
which is supposed to l)e Kwannon's
favourite retieat.
The two-storied Euroi)ean build-
ing close by is the Prefecture.
South of Kobukuji, under a hill^
lies a pond called Sanisawa no Ike.
The local legend tells of a beautiful
maiden at the Mikado's court, who -was*-
wooed by all the courtiers, but rejecte<L
their offers of marriage, because she w«».
in love with the Mikado. The latter had
pity on her for a while ; but when ho-
afterwards liegnn to neglect her, she went
secretly away by night and drowned her-
self in this (Kind.
The small platform at the side
of the road to the r. of the pond
is for the use of pilgrims desirous
of performing from a distance their
obeisances to the Mausoleum of
Jimmu Tenno (see p. 332). Near
the outskirts of the town in this-
direction are the tumuli of the Em-
perors Kaikwa and Shomu — mere
mounds interesting only to the
professed antiquarian.
This ends the sights of K"ara.
Those with a little time to spare-
might devote it to walking up
Mikasa-yama close behind the Mu-
sashino Hotel. From the stone at
the summit (6C0 ft. above the
base), a fine view N.W. is ob-
tained of the Kizugawa vallejv
and "W., of the plain of Nara
stretching away to the mountains
which divide it from the province
of Kawachi. The town of Kori-
yama lies S.W.
[Seven ri to the N.E. of Nara, up.
the course of the Kizugawa,.
is the village of Tsiiki^ase,.
famous for its plum-tree or-
chards, which line the stream
for upwards of 2 ^., and
diffuse a delicious scent in
March when they are in blos-
som. No other place in Japan
Jtoute 46. — Through Yamato to Koya-san,
dSl
can boast such a show of the
pink and white flowers of this
fragrant tree. Some rapids,
which occur a little lower down
the conrse of the river, afford a
pleasant change for a portion of
the return journey to Nara; or
else the traveller may join the
Kwansei Bailway at Tsuge,
and proceed either W. to Kusa-
tsu and Kyoto, or E. to Yok-
kaichi and Tokyo.]
A pleasant short day's excursion
for travellers staying at Nara is to
take the train to Hdryuji, and, after
visiting the temple there, to pro-
ceed by jinrikisha to Yakushi-ji, a
run of about f hr. This ancient
temple, also known as Nishi-no-Kyo,
is now indeed sadly decayed, but
the bronze image of Ewannon
(Sho-Kwannon) enshrined in it is
one .of the most precious legacies of
Japanese — or more strictly speak-
ing, Korean — art. The temple pos-
sesses numerous other images, as
do those of Shddaiji and Saidaiji
in the vicinity, all formerly famous,
but now on the verge of ruin owing
to neglect. The jinrikisha ride
back from Yakushiji to Nara will
occupy about 2 hrs.
EOUTE 46.
Thbouoh Yamato to the Monas-
TKBT of KoTA-SAN IN KiSHU.
MAITSOLEUM OF JIMMU TENNO,
MIWA. HASE. TONOMINE. Y08HIN0.
[OMINE AND OTHER MOUNTAINS.]
KOYA-SAN. [WAKAYAMA.] FROM
KOYA-SAN TO OSAKA.
This route includes many names
that are classic to Japanese ears,
and may be specially recommended
to lovers of ancient religious art
as well -as to seekers after the
picturesque.
The start may be made either
from Osaka or from Nara ; but the
former is to be preferred, as the
centre of interest is then speedily
reached by railway, whereas the
jinrikisha ride of 5 n from Nara to
Sakurai, vid Tamba-ichi and Miwa,
is somewhat dull. The railway
taken at Osaka (Minato-cho sta-
tion) is a branch of the Osaka-
Nara Railway. Travellers change
carriages at Oji for Takada, the
temporary terminus of the branch,
which is, however, to be carried
on a few miles further to Imai
closfe to Jimmu's Mausol^m, and
to Sakurai. Even in the present
unfinished state of things (1891),
which nessitates taking jinrikishas
from Takada viA the Mausoleum
to Sakurai, the whole trip does not
occupy half a day. When the
Imai station shall have been
opened, the best plan will be to
take train so far, and thence go by
jinrikisha to Sakurai via the Mau-
soleum. The roads in all this dis-
trict are excellent. The itinerary
of the rest of the route from Sa-
kurai onwards is as follows :
Itinerary.
SAKCTEAI to :— Ri. Cho. M.
Hase 1 23 4
Back to Sakurai... 1 23 4
Tonomine 1 23 4
Kami-ichi 3 8 7|
Yoshino (about)... 25 If
Muda 1 — 2^
GOJO 4 — 9f
Hashimoto 2 3 5
Kamuro 1 — 2^
Kane (about)... 1 14 3^
Kaniya „ ... 1 J 4 3i
KOYA-SAN,, ... 1 14 3^
Back to Kamuro
(about) 4 6 lOi
Hashimoto 1 — 2^
Top of Kiimi-toge. 2 2 5
Mikkaichi 2 21 " 6i
Fukumachi 3 7 7f
SAKAI 3 21 8f
Total 37 24 92
882
RoiUe 46. — Through Yamato to Koya-san.
By train from Sakai to Osaka in
20 min.
The raising of a grand M^nsoleum to
Jiinmu 'I'enno, the Japanese Romulus, nt
KashiVrabara where his capital is believed
to have stood, may be regarded as the
culmiiiatiug point uf the triumphant la-
bours of the archseolo^ioal and Shinto
party;^ which, beg^in-iing early in the ISth
century by the annotation of ancient texts
and the re-adoption of obsolete religious
usHges, has ended in our own day by restor-
ing the Mikado to his long lo.-'t authority,
while such comparatively modern innova-
tions as tl>e Shdruuttte huve been trampled
underfoot, and the foreign religion, Budd-
liism, if not killed, at least deprived of
official fiivbur and emolument. On Jiinmu
Tenno, as the first Mikndo, and on the
other early monarchs of his line, a portion
of the political and religious enthusiasm
felt for their latest descendants reflects it-
self Yamato iitid the adjacent provinces
are cove ed with the tumuli— m/»aaa^i, as
they are ttrmed— of these long-neglected
lulers, which, till within the last quarter
of a century, were treated with scant
reverence bv the peasantry who used there
to cut fodder for th.nr cattle. All the
tumuli have now been identified— not per-
haps in every ease by methods suttiuiently
strict to satisfy the European critic, but at
least by painstaking reference to the oldest
available sources oif the njition-il history ;
iind that some greit i)ei-«onage8 were inter-
red undersumeof the tumuli in question, is
plain from the gold ornaments, the pottery,
and other relics dugout of them during the
earlier stages of the search. However
legitimately destructive European criticism
may be of die authenticity of Jimmu Ten-
lio's history and of the claims of any
particular tumulus to the name it is now
made to bear, one cann >t 1 ut experience a
certain fee. in? of interest und respect in
piesence of such very antrient remains.
This fertile plain of Yaniaio which holds
them is the earliest historic < entre of the
Japane e J ace, and has certainly for thirteen
centuries, and prob:ibly for a miu h longer
X)eriiid, been the home of a unique civili-
sation. The various Imperial tumuli may
now be recognised by the hairier — general-
ly a gianite fence — surionnding a hillock
overgrown with treps, and the stone torii
standing at the entrance to a neat gravel
walk. In some cases the mound is liourd-
shaped, of con'<ider.iblesize, and surrounded
by a moat. Jimmn Tenno's tumulus is the
most sacred of these, though low and
inconspicuous.
Just before reachino^ the Tiimu-
Ins of Jiuimii Tennu, one passes
1. that of the' Emperor Suizei, his
immediate successor. The wooded
hill seen ahead is Unebi-yama,
constantly mentioned by the early
Japanese poets. Jimmu Tenno's
mausoleum lies at its N.E. foot,
the hamlet of Kashiwabara and.
the Mausoleum 8 cho to the S.W.
To the r. rise Nijo-san or Futago-
yama, so-called from its double
peak, and the long ridge of KAtsu-
ragi-yama and Kongo-zan. To the
extreme 1. is Tonomine, the highest
part of a range on another portion
of which, further ahead, may be
seen glistening the white walls of
the castle of Takatori. The tumu-
lus was first enclosed in 1863,
the outer stone fence dates from
about 1877, the granite screen
(tamagaki) and large wooden torii
inside the grounds and nearest to
the actual tumulus, from 1890.
The torii is of peculiar construc-
tion, the lower portion being a
sort of lattice work. None are
now allowed to penetrate further
than this torii, the ground being
considered sacred. The chief
building opposite the entrance is
intended to accommodate the Im-
perial messenger (chokushi-kvxm),
who comes yearly to worship on
the Mikado's behalf. The travel-
ler will re-enter his jinrikisha to
reach the Maiisolenm {Kashiwor-
hara Jinja), begun in April, 1890,
and not likely to be completed for
some years, as the buildings are
on an elaborate scale. The idea is
to restore Jiinmu Tenno's palace
on its original site; and as
Imperialism and Shinto go hand
in hand, the result is a set of
structures half -palace half -temple.
Two wings of the Imperial Palace
at Kyoto — the Naishi-dokoro and
8hinka-den — have been removed to
this spot.
The Shinka-den is a sort of shed, 72 ft.
by 40 ft., in which the Mikado celelirates
the Harvest Festival {ShinjO-mi). In the
Naishi-dokoro, ali»o called KaBhiko-dokoro,
is preserved a copy of the sacred mirror
given to his ancestor by the Sun-Goddess,
the original of w^hich is at her temple in
Ise. When the Palace was destroyed by
fire in A.D. 900, the mirror flew out of the
building in which it was then deposited,
and alighted on a cherry-tree, where it
Jimmu's Mausoleum. Miwa, Hose,
888
-was found by one of the Naithif a class
of females who attended on the Mikado.
Henceforth these attendants always had
charge of it, whence the name Naithi-
dok€Mro, The alternative name of Kathiko-
doioro signifies the 'fearful (or awe-in-
spiring) plckce.'
The Shinka-den stands in front,
the Naishi-dokoro behind ; and an
oratory (norito-ya) intended to con-
nect the two is in course of
erection. In the court will be
planted an ukon no tachibana and
sakon no aakuray as in the Kyoto
Palace (see p. 290). On either side
of this block of buildings there is
to be a gallery. To the 1., outside
the enclosure, is the Shinsenjo
where the offerings are prepared,
and beside it is the temple office. In
the background, godowns are to be
built for the various sacred
treasures, and at the entrance a
house for the Imperial envoy. The
materials are plain white wood and
granite.
Returning past the tumulus the
way we came, and then diverging
to the r., we perceive in front a liill
much more like a large artificial
tumulus than any other in the
vicinity, but which is not account-
ed such. It is called Tenjin-yama,
because dedicate to the god Ten-
jin. Very soon we reach the town
of
Saknrai (Inn Taba-ichi), which
will soon be the terminus of the
railway. There is nothing parti-
cular to see in the town itself.
Notice only the peculiar effect
produced here and at other neigh-
bouring towns by the small tiled
chimneys which look like miniature
temple roofs stuck on above the
actual roofs of the houses. A spare
i hr. at Sakurai can be utilised in
visiting the ancient Temple of
Miwa, situated in a commanding
position amid an antique grove.
Though now a good deal neglected,
the buildings still preserve traces
of former stateliness. The temple
is dedicated to the Shinto god
Onamuji, and the priests who
minist-er at the altar are said to be
descended from a son of that deity,
named Otataneko.
The following legend concerning this
pei-sonage— a legend which also attempts
to expliin the etymology of the name
Miwa — is translated literally from the
Kojiki:
* The reason why this person called Ota-
taneko was known to be the child of a god*
was that the beauty of a maiden named
Iku-tama-yori-]>inie seemed peerless in the
world to a divine youth who came suddenly ^
to her in the middle of the night. Bo, as
they loved each other and lived in matri-
mony together, the maiden ere long became
pregnant. Then the father and mother,
astonished at their daughter being preg-
nant, asked her, sxying : * Thou are preg-
nant by thyself. How art thou witli child
without having known a man?* She re-
plied, saying : * I have conceived through a
beautiful young man, whose name I know
not, coming liere eveiy evening and staying
with me.* Therefore the father and mother,
wishing to know who the man was, cran-
n landed their daughter, saying: 'Sprinkle
red earth in front of the couch, and pass a
8kein of hemp through a needle, and pierce
therewith the skirt of his garment.* 8o
she did as they had bidden, and on locdcing^
in the morning, the hemp that had been
put in the needle went out through the
hole of the door-hook, and all the hemp
that lem lined -was only three twists.
fJap. mi wa). Then forthwith, knowing
how he had gone out by the hook-hole«
they went on tlieir quest following the
thiead, which, re:icbing Mount Miwa,
stopped at tlie shrine of the god. So they
knew that Otataneko was the child of the
god who dwelt there. So the place was
called ty the name of Miwa, because of the
three twists of hemp that had remained.'
The excellent and picturesque
road from Sakurai to
Hase {Inns, Yoshino-ya, Idani-
ya), leads up the r . bank of the Hase-
gawa. At the entrance of the little
town, which owes its existence to
the sanctity of the great Temple of
Hase-dera or Chokokuji, the valley
suddenly narrows, and wooded hills
close the road in on every side.
Founded early in the 8th century
and last rebuilt about 800 years
ago, this temple is one of the most
striking in Japan. It is situated
high up on the flank of a hill above
the town, and stands half upon
the rock and half upon a lofty plat-
form built out from the rock, like
Kiyomizn-dera at Kyoto. A lon^
884
Boute 46, — Through Yamato to Koya-san,
and steep flight of steps in three
zigzags, two of which are roofed in,
leads from the new entrance gate at
the end of the main street. On either
side of the flight of steps are beds of
peonies, beautiful to behold about
the end of April, when they are
in full bloom. The front part of
the main building is an ex-voto
haU 60 ft. long, in front of which
^ is a platform built out on piles and
commanding a view of the whole
valley. A stone-paved corridor
lined with lanterns runs between
the ex-voto hall and the holy of
holies, where is enshrined the enor-
mous gilt image of Kwannon, the
goddess of the place, whose form
may be obscurely perceived by
the dim light of lanterns. ' On
payment of a fee to the attendant
priest, permission can be obtained
to enter this sanctum and stand
at her very feet. The entrance is
by the back, where, on either side
of the door, will be remarked two
little wheels used as charms where-
by to prognosticate future events.
The curious pilgrim ties a wisp of
paper to the wheel, which he then
turns rapidly. If the paper wisp
is at the bottom when the wheel
stops, any desire he may have
formed will come true. Just inside
the door is a life-size image of
Kwannon standing in front of a
large fresco of Shaka and the Five-
and-Twenty Bosatsu of Paradise.
To its 1. is an immense maindara, 18
ft. broad by 30 ft. high, represent-
ing that half of the universe called
by the Buddhists Taizo-kai. Both
these paiigitings are attributed to
Kobo Daishi, as is a large kakemono
of the god Dainichi Nyorai which
hangs opposite to the niandara.
Thus we pass round to the great
image in front, which towers to a
height of 26^ ft. in the dim reli-
gious light. On the 1. side of the
sanctum, before emerging, is seen
another mandara representing the
half of the universe Kongo-kai. The
two mandara together contain the
figures of 3,000 Buddhas. The
Oku-no-in of this temple, instesKi
of being higher up the same hill ac-
cording to the usual custom, is on
a separate hill 4 cho distant, and
is not worth a visit. Hase-dera is
No. 8 of the Thirty-Three Places
' (see p. 253). A fire, which took
I place in 1883, destroyed the pago-
da and also the lowest section of the-
covered gallery ; but subscriptions
are being raised to restore both.
On the hill opposite is a temple to
the Shinto god Tenjin. The Yo-
shino-ya inn stands at the bottom,
of the flight of stone steps thai;
lead up to this shrine.
[From Hase a road leads to the
shrines of Ise ; see p. 245. It
is much frequented by pil-
grims, who combine the Yama-
to-meguri, as it is called, or
Tour of the Holy Places of
Yamato, with a pilgrimage to
the temple of the Sun-Goddess.]
The 4 m. back from Hase to
Sakurai are speedily traversed in
jinrikishas, the road being a slight
descent the whole way. From
Sakurai likewise on to Tonomine
there is a jinrikisha road ; but as
it soon becomes steep and is rough
in parts, good walkers are advised
to go on foot. The whole way is
picturesque. At Shimomura, about
^ hr. out of Sakurai, a fine granite
torii marks the outermost limit of
the sacred mountain, the actual
Tonomine being the trifurcated
summit seen ahead to the r. Many
hamlets are passed through. At
that of Kurahashi, but a little off
the road, is the tumulus of Sujiu
Tenno, one of the Emperors of the
legendary era.
During some fifteen years tlie Japanese
areheeolofrists hesitated between the con-
flicting claims of several neighbouriTig'
spots. On the present site stood the little
(Shinto temple of the hamlet — a fact -which
finally fixed their choice. The place was
laid out after the orthodox pattern in 1891,
the temple havinjr been removed to the
hill opposite. The present writers, who
passed there while the work was in pro-
Tonomine.
835
gr'^ss, cannot say that anything much re-
sembling an artificial mound, or iudeed a
mound of any sort, was discernible.
At the upper end of a village
called Yainai-cho, a covered bridore
leads across into the grounds of
iilie justly famous temple of
Toiiomine (locally pronounced
Tonomune), the way being along
an avenue of monumental crypt-
omerias. The magnificence of the
■fcimber, the purling of the brook
InbIow, the rich green every-
wliere, and the deep shade combine
to make a scene at once impressive
and delightful. Jinrikishas may
go no further than the Ichi no Mon,
or First Ghate.
This name does not indicate that there
are luHiiy successive gates to be passed
ttiroiigfa. There is but one on the Yainai-
cho side. The JVi no Jfon^ or Second
Oate, is on the other side of the moun-
tain, by which the traveller departs.
The stone walls beyond it, ser-
ving to keep some terraces in place,
are all that remain of a large num-
ber of priests' dwellings and minor
temple buildings pulled down
during the present reign.
The temple of Tonomine, one of the
most perfect speciuiens of Kyobu-Shinto
architecture, was raised in honour of a
celebrated nobleman and statesman of the
7th century, named Kamatari, who had
two sons, Tankiii and Joe. The latter it
■was who built the temple, bi inginj? back
with him from China, whither he had been
sent to study, all the materials for the
thirteen-storieil pagoda, with the exception
of the top storey which proved to be njore
than his junk could liold. In those days,
however, such mishaps were easily reme-
died, and the thirteenth storey flew after
him acroMS the sea in a cloud, and so com-
pleted the edifice. According to tradition,
Kamatari Hnd liis friends retired to this
mountain to plan the assassination of Soga-
no-Iruka, h nobleman who had ingratiated
himself with the Empress KOgyoku, and
formed the bold design of plaidng him^self on
the throne. Hence the name of Dnmu no
Mine, or Conference Peak, the word Damn
being aftei-wards corrupted to 2o.
On arriving at the great red
iiyriiy we turn to the r. and ascend
several steep flights of steps, to
the r. of which is a fine grove of
maples whose autumn tints are
celebrated. Again turning to the
r. at the top of the steps, we find
ourselves at the honsha, or main
shrine, connected with an oratory
in the somewhat unusual form of a
gallery, which now wears the as-
pect of an exhibition, as drums,
arrows, the god's sacred car, and
other temple * j)roperties ' are there
laid out in rows. All the temple
buildings are red and white, the
main shrine being furthermore
decorated with gold and green
arabesques and geometrical designs,
besides beautiful carvings of birds
and elaborate metal fastenings.
Round it is a paling {ta'niagalc{)t,
with storks and tortoises within
groups of flowers. Oreen blinds
hide the doorways, to each of which
a polished mirror is attached. The
side chapels are dedicated to
Kamatari's sons, Tankai and Joe.
Dragons in sepia on a gold ground
adorn the lower cross-beams of the
portico, and a beautifully executed
pair of bronze lanterns bearing
date 1755 stand in front of the
chapel. The transverse panel in
the verandah on the W. side of the
chapel has a white phoenix painted
on it, and on the corresponding
panel on the E. side is a peacock.
The roof is of thick shingling. As
at Kasuga in Nara, a troop of
young girls and musicians are in
readiness to perform the kagura
dance for a small fee. The other
principal object of jnterest is
the small thirteen-storied, or
more correctly speaking thirteen-
roofed, pagoda. There are nume-
rous other buildings in the grounds,
many of which are now left
empty, as the Shinto cult has no
use for them. One, seen on the
way down and showing traces of
elaborate decoration, is the burial-
place of Kamatari's mother. The
two great festival days at Tono-
mine are the 16th April and I7th
November.
Close to the exit from the temple
enclosure is an excellent inn called
:886
Route 46. — Throuffh Yamato to Kdya-san,
Hananaka-ya^ kept by a former
priest. A short but steep ascent
leads up hence to the Nino Mon,
or Second Gate, where the temple
grounds are left. Hence it is a
good i hr. walk to
Hhiken-jnya> a hamlet which
belies the import of its name (lit.
* four tea-houses ') by having no
tea-houses at all. It affords, how-
ever, a fine viefe of the plain
stretching towards Nara. Begin-
ning at the r., the mountains seen
are : Tempo-zan, Futago-yama,
Katsuragi-yama, Kongo-san; next,
but in the much further distance,
Koya-san, and to its 1., that is to
the S. of the spectator, the sea of
mountains covering southern Ya-
mato. Close to the spectator is a
tumulus called Uba-ga-mori, mark-
ed by a clump of trees and the
usual railing. Half the horizon —
the N. and E. side — is unfoi-tunate-
ly shut out from view by rising
ground close by. From Shiken-jaya
to the top of the Ryumi-toge is
called a distance of 1 ri, but can
scarcely be so much. The way lies
mostly through a delightful wood
of cryptomerias and chamsecy-
paris trees ; nor need the lover of
timber fear that the bare streaks
on some of the hill-sides indicate
impending disafforestation. The
Japanese plan is not to thin out
timber gradually, as we do, but to
shave whole hill-sides bare and then
let them alone for many years,
while others are similarly treated
in rotation. This method saves
trouble, as all the timber is simply
rolled down without encoimtering
Any obstacle to the bottom of the
valley — if possible, to a stream
where it is floated down, either in
separate trunks, or where the
breadth of the stream admits of it,
in the form of rafts.
The view from the Eyuzai-toge,
though pretty, is less extensive
than that from Shiken-jaya. The
way onward is downhill, with the
exception of the short Yumihari-
I toge. Several hamlets are passed
through before entering
Kiiuii-ichi (Inn, Tatami-ya), &
fair-sized town on the r. bank a£
the Yoshino-gawa. The view up
the river is pretty, and those to
whom the classical literature ot
Japan is familiar will be intere steel
to gaze on Imoyama, the conspicu^
ous and thickly-wooded hill about
I m. distant.
The early erotic poets of Japan make
constant mention of Imose-yaniat wliivh
nairie is interpreted to mcHri Imo-yama
and Se-pama^ or * Mount Lady-love ' aud
' Mount Lover.' The former of the two is
here at Kami-ichi ; but no * Mount Lover*
can be found in actual gec^aphy to oor-
respond with the orthodox intei pretaticMi.
Various explanations have been proposed.
Some say that he has been separated from
his mistress and washed away down the
river, while otliers go so far as t4) hint that»
like the much-quoted Mrs. Huxris, he never
existed at all.
We now cross the river to the
town on the other side, called
ligai, the crossing being effected
by bridge in winter, by ferry in
summer.
A similar curious arrangement obtains
at other places along the course of this
river. The reason is that the summer
floods often pour down with such cesistless
force as to sweep all before them. Of
course the bridges erected for use during
the dry season are not costly, and the pieces
are stowed away to do service again the
following year.
The temple buildings at ligai,
standing on a slight elevation and
having a parapet in front, belong
to the Monto sect of Buddhists.
Proceeding a short way down the
stream and then turning S., we
enter the lower hills. Cherry-trees
line the path and cover the hill-
side for a considerable distance
up to the entrance of the small
town of
Vosliino ( Inns, * Tatsumi-ya,
Fukuchi-ya), which is built along
the top of a narrow spur, and con-
sists almost entirely of inns and of
shops for the sale of articles at-
tractive to i>ilgrims.
[Yoshino may also be reached in
about 6 ri direct from Jimmu's
Yoshino.
837
MaQsoleum, vifi, the castle of
Takatori. Almost the whole
distance can be done by jin-
rikisha.]
"Yosliino's nsiially sleepy aspect
is exchanged for all the bustle of a
camp during the week or ten days
in mid- April when the cherry-trees
are in flower.
These trees, "which are sn|->posed to num-
ber exactly a tbouBHnd, have for centuries
been famous thruugrhout Japxn, and de-
«»rve to be famous tbrou^^hout the world.
Tliere is no pig}it comparable to them for
beauty when covered with delicate pale
pink blossom, except perhaps the plum-
trees of TBuki}?»8e in tlie north of the sanie
province. But the cherry-blossoms of Yo-
nhino enjoy a far wider reputation. Fur-
tlier up the mountain-side, beyond the
to-wn of YoKhino, is a second plantation of
these beautiful trees.
Half-way up the town are the
remains of a huge bronze tovii
iHiilt of broad rings 3 ft. in dia-
meter. It was blown down by a
typhoon in 1888, but is to be set up
again. It indicates the approach
to Zo-O'do, one of the largest tem-
ples in Japan.
Founded by Gyogi Bosatsu early in the
8th century_ as an offshoot of the temple
raised on Omine by his master £n-uo-
8h5kaku, this temple has undei-gone many
vicissitudes. The present buildings date,
for most part, from 1591. Early in the
present reign, they were tnken from their
Buddhist occupants and handed over by
the Government to the Shintoists ; but in
1886 they were handed back from the
6hintoist8 to the Buddhists, when the
colossal statue of Zo-o Gongen and the
other temple pioperties were restored to
their original places, though with a some-
what din;inL<jhed lustre.
A large red two-storied gate and
two flights of steps lead up into
the court fronting the great temple
hall. The pillars supporting this
lofty building are huge trunks,
lopped of their branches and
roughly trimmed. Their gradually
tapering form recalls the way in
which the stone columns of Doric
temples derived their shape from the
primitive trunks which they re-
placed . One of the pillars is a gigan-
tic azalea, at least 30 in. in diameter,
brought from Mt. Omine, where
those shrubs frequently attain to
an enormous size, though seldom
reaching the bulk of this specimen.
Ex-voto pictures of proportionate
dimensions and great age adorn
the walls of the portico. The huge
image of Zo-o Gongen behind the
altar, carved by Gyogi Bosatsu, is
26 ft. high and of terrific aspect,,
and is flanked by statues scarcely
less colossal (22 ft.) of Kwan-
non and Miroku. All three lift
their r. foot to trample on the
clouds, and the 1. to trample on
the four great oceans. Their
stern expression shows that their
minds are bent on repressing
the demons of which the universe
is full.
A little further on is Yoshijiina
Jinjii, a small temple in which
YoshitsiTne and Benkei are said to
have si)ent three years, and which
later, in the 14th century, served
as the abode of the fugitive
monarch Go-Daigo. Every tree,,
every stone in the enclosure has a
name recalling some act of one or
other of these three personages, —
the tree to which Yoshitsune made^
fast his horse, the rock into which
Benkei drove two iron nails to
prove his strength after seven days
of abstinence, etc. The room which
Go-Daigo used to occupy is stilf
shown, as are a variety of works
of art. On the hill opposite is the
temple of Nyoinnji where Go-
Daigo lies buried.
There are several minor temples,
but Zo-o-do will probably be found
sufficient by most travellers. Yo-
shino is noted tor its Icuzu, a kind
of starch, which is sold both jDure and
also as a sweetmeat in the shape
of cherry-blossoms, a real blossom
of last season's blooming being
enclosed in each daintily done up
box. The starch, when properly
made, is very palatable, and almost
indistinguishable from American
corn starch.
[Yoshino is the name, not only of
888
Route 46, — Through Yainato to Koya-san,
the town, but of the surround-
ing extensive tract of wild
mountainous country, to ex-
plore which the town affords
a convenient starting-point ;
and neither the mountaineer
nor the botanist will regret
devoting some days to this
object. The peaks vary from
5,000 ft. to 6,000 ft. in height.
The names of the principal
ones are Misen, Shaka-ga-take,
Omine (locally pronounced
Omune), Inamura, and Shi-
chimen-zan. The narrow val-
leys intervening between their
spurs support a scanty but
industrious population, who,
by terracing even the steepest
hill-sides, are able to raise
a sufficient crop of barley
for their existence. Yet a
vast tract is uninhabited, and
much of this is even un-
traversed. Boars and the goat-
faced antelope are plentiful,
and a few deer and bears and
an occasional wolf are also to
be seen. The boars are so
numerous, that throughout the
region all cultivated plots have
to be protected from their
inroads by strong stockades
called shishugaki, and it is not
unusual to see a whole valley
thus fenced in. The summits
are almost without exception
clothed at high elevations with
foi'ests consisting chiefly of
conifers, beeches, and oaks
both evergreen and deciduous,
magnolias, etc., but the lower
slopes are not vmfrequently
covered with plantations of
cryptomerias, and chamaBcy-
paris. There aj'e also a few
small copi)er-mines, but timber-
cutting and timber-dressing
form tlie chief employment of
the peasant population.
The ascent of Online, though
not really dangerous, is so
steep in pai-ts that some bits
have to be accomplished by
means of ladders. The dis-
tance from Yoshino to the top
is 6 n, the expedition there and.
back occupying the whole of &
long day. The summit is sa^
cred to the Buddliist saint who
first trod it, En-no-Shokaku»
and there, in front of a temple
erected in his honour, may be
seen several fine bronze images,
which represent him equipped
for a pilgrimage, with one>
toothed clogs on his feet, and
accompanied by the faithful
demons Zenki and Goki. The
view is very fine, even the
cone of Fuji being visible on a
clear day, though no less than
180 m. distant. _
Fyom the summit of Omine,
the traveller who is equipped
for mountain work and pro-
vided with a sufficient supply
of provisions and porters, may
make the ascent of Misen and
Shaka-ga-take, descending to
a place called Dorogawa at the
foot of Omine, which, being
resorted to by pilgrims bound
for Koya-san, possesses several
inns. The distance from O-
mine to Misen is probably not
more than 18 to 20 m., but the
path is difficult, constantly
ascending and descending, and
progress must inevitably be
slow, owing to the necessity
of carrying cooking utensils,
sleeping quilts, and rice for the
porters. The whole of one day
will be required to reach Mi-
sen, one more to Shaka-ga-
take, and a third to Dorogawa,
A water-vessel capable of con-
taining a day*s supply and a
sufficiency of warm clothing
should be taken, as even in.
July the thermometer may
sink to oO^ Fahrenheit at night.
From Dorogawa to Koya-san
is one very long day's walk.
Most of these mountains afford
but little view, on account of
the thick vegetation coverjng
Road from Yoshino to Kdija-san.
889
them ; but the botanist will be
correspondingly rewarded.]
On leaving Yoshino for Koya-
san, a walk of 1 hr. affording a
succession of delightful views leads
•down to the Yoshino-gawa, which
is crossed at a point shortly below
Kami-ichi, from a village called
Saso on the 1. bank to one named
Muda, or Matsnda (Inn, Hara-
ya), on the r. The extremely
sliarp peak seen to the r. on the
.-way down is the Takami-toge on
the borders of the province of Ise.
It is interesting to watch the rafts
descending the river. Though very
long, they glide easily among the
shoals, under the management of a
skilful steersman, because built in
sections having a partly inde-
pendent motion like the carriages of
a railway train. Jinrikishas can be
taken the whole way from Muda to
Kamuro. The road, which leads
down the r. bank of the river, is
excellent and the scenery pleasant-
ly rural though not calling for
special remstrk. It would show to
better advantage if the traveller
•came from the opposite direction,
as the higher mountains would
then be in front instead of behind.
Between the hamlets of AdA and
Utto, the road diverges from the
river to mount a gentle ascent
called the XJno-toge. Of the high
mountain mass visible from the
Ada tea-house, the portion to the
r. is Omine, that to the 1. Otenjo.
At thehamlet of Sanzai, the road
from Osaka joins in on the r.,
Kongo-san rising just beyond, in
the near distance.
Oojo (Inn, *Mikasa-kwan) is a
fair-sized town, and a good place
to halt for luncheon if the start
from Yoshino has not been made
early enough to admit of going
straight through to Kamuro. After
leaving Gojo the scenery improves,
moun^in masses coming forward
to the 1., and the road passes over
a gentle rise called the Matsuchi-
toge, where the province of Yama-
to is quitted and that of Kishti
entered. The river is joined again
at
Hashiuioto (Inn, Take-ya),whero
a ferry takes one across to the 1.
bank. The vill. of
Kamuro (Inns, Kome-ya, Tama-
ya) stands at the entrance of the
side valley leadinpf up to Koya-san,
its raison d'etre being the accom-
modation of pilgrims to that shrine.
Bands of .them may be found
dining there at almost any time of
day in spring, the fare provided
being vegetarian when they are on
their way up as contrite sinners^
but generously supplemented with,
fish and eggs — the Japanese sub-
stitutes for meat — when they are
returning downwards, pardoned
and at peace with all the gods.
The traveller will probably be told
at Kamuro that the distance to
Koya-san is only 3 ri; but the ri in
this mountain district is of 50 cho,
which brings the distance up to 4 ri
6 cho of standard measurement, or
10^ miles English. It must all be
walked, and is a succession of steep
ascents and descents, the former
predominating ; but the eye is so
charmed at every turn that fatigue
is forgotten. Several villages
are passed through, of which the
best are Kane (Inn, Naka-ya) and
Kaiiiiya {Inn, Hana-ya). During
the first half of the walk, beautiful
glimpses are obtained from time to
time of the Yoshino-gawa fiowing
far below. There is little or no
shade, and the palmettos on the
hill-sides bear witness to the ex-
ceptional warmth of the climate of
this district. For the second half,
the way leads up amidst magnifi-
cent timber, chiefly conifers, which
to behold and to enjoy their deli-
cious shade and f ragi*ance, would of
itself reward one for the expedition.
Most of the finest specimens are
chamsBcyparis. Strangely enough,
comparatively few examples are
seen of the species to which Koya-
840
Eoute 46. — Through Yamato to Koya'San,
san has given its name — the Kdya-
mdki, or Sdadopijtis verticillata.
This superb forest, which now be-
longs no longer to the priests but
to the central Government, rings
with the rhythmic chant of the
coolies who laboriously bear down
the timber from mountain recesses
situated above the monastery. It
is thus conveyed to Wakayama,
the capital of the province, and
thence shipped in junks to Tokyo.
A bridge little worthy of its
high-sounding name, GoJcuraku-
hcLshi, that is, the Bridge of Para-
dise, marks the beginning of
Koya-Siin proper and of the last
and steepest portion of the climb.
The forest grows thicker and thicker
till at last we reach a plain black
gate forming the entrance to the
temple grounds. The exception-
ally fine bronze image of Jizo just
outside dates from the year 1745.
It was the gift of a female devotee.
The smaller but handsome bronze
Kwannon inside the gate to the 1.
dates from 1852. From here it is
but a few yards to the ^ankei-nin
iori-ahirdbe-sho, or * place for the
examination of pilgrims,' where the
traveller will be asked whence he
comes and at which temple he
wishes to lodge, and will then be
furnished gratis with a gtiide to
conduct him thither ; or, if he have
no preference and no letter of
introduction, some lodging will be
assigned to him. This question
of the lodging is important, as
there are no inns at Koya-san.
The temples do duty for them — or
rather the priests* residences in-
cluded in the Japanese term for a
Suddhist temple {iera). Many are
apt to be too full of pilgrims of the
lower class to afford pleasant quar-
ters. The most aristocratic, in
1891, were Shojo Shin-in possessing
beautiful suites of rooms, Henjo
Koin, Kongo Sammai-in, and Joki-
in. The people at Kamuro will
probably endeavour to persuade
the tourist into patronising some
inferior place with which they ar&
in league. Of course no foreiga
food is provided by the priestly-
hosts, neither does their fara
include any fish, as all takings
of life is prohibited by the strict
Buddhist rule which governs the
monastery. The traveller, unless
he be a vegetarian, must there-
fore come provided. The monks
will make no very strict enquiry
into what he may see fit to eat,
neither is he expected to abstain
from strong liquors. He should
remember that they are monks,,
not innkeepers, and must re-
frain from ordering them about.
There is no fixed charge for board
and lodging, but it behoves the
visitor to be liberal, and to g^ve at
least as much as he would in a
good inn. The service of the rooms
is all done by young boys, no
woman being admitted to any such
employment. Indeed, it is only
during the present reign that
women have been permitted to
make the pilgrimage at all. All
the pilgrims are wakened before
dawn ; and the traveller may, if he
likes, assist at matins, which
service is performed in a hall lined
with thousands of funeral tablets,
prayers being offered up for the
souls of those whose names are in-
scribed thereon. Koya-san has no
mosquitoes.
Kongobuji— for that is the proper name
of the monastpry, Koyii-san beiufir only the
name of the mountain on which it stands —
is one of tlie oldest religious foundations
in Japan. It dates from A.D. 816, having
been then founded by the gi'eat saint,
Kobo Daishi, to whom the Emperor Saga
made a grant of land for the purpose,
^s K5b5 Daishi was on his way up the
mountiiin, he met the Shinto god of the
locality, who was accompanied bjr two
dogs. This god promised his protection to
the monastery, and in return for this the
Shinto Temple of Nya, dedicated to the
mountain-god's mother, was afterwards
biiilt in one of the neighbouring valleys.
1'his legend is the explanntion given of
the toleration of dogs on Ko^a-san, while
no other animals are pennitted to enter
the precincts. Other prohibitions existed
in former times against musical instni-
moLts, the planting of bamboos or trees
Gi'eat Cemetery of Kdya-san.
841
tliat could he turned to profit, archery
and football, gambling and checkers,
iMunboo brooms, and three-pronged hay-
forks. The principal mediseval bene-
factors of the monastery were tne Emperor
Shirakawa and Hideyoshi. The lattet's
nephew and adopted son Hidetsugu com-
mitted , harnkiri here. Eoya-san has ex-
perienced no striking reverses, thou^rh, like
all Buddhist monasteries, it has suffered to
some extent from the recent disestablish-
ment of Buddhism. Its greatest enemy
"baa been fire. The conflagrations of 1843
and 1888 were the most disastrous duiing
the present century The great pagoda
perished on the former occasion, and has
never been rebuilt. On the latter, wlien
the fire histed for two days (11th— 12th
IPebruary), large numbers of the piiest-s'
dwelling were swept away, but fortunately
no edifice of special importance.
The sights of Koya-san take half
a day to see. The first and most
impressive is a monster Cemetery,
through which leads an avenue of
cryptomerias 1 8 cho long ; or
rather the cemetery is a kind of
irregular avenue laid along a mag-
nificent cryptomeria forest. Not
indeed that most of the bodies
are actually buried here. In
many cases the so-called tomb is
merely a monument raised to the
memory of the dead believer, who,
through this nominal burial by the
side of Kobo Daishi, obtains the
spiritual privilege of re-birth into
the Tosotsu Heaven, or into Jodo,
•the Pure Land of Perfect Bliss.' In
other cases, after the corpse has been
cremated, the Adam's -apple and
some of the teeth are sent to Koya-
san, these remains being thrown
into a common pit called Kotsvrdot
or the Hall of Bones, in the case of
persons who cannot go to the ex-
pense of a separate tomb. At aU
events their funeral tablets are
sent to the monastery, to be prayed
over daily. As one walks along
the avenue, a special cicerone who
has all the names by heart, points
out the most important graves.
Aft-er crossing the Ichino-hashi,
or First Bridge over the tiny
Odogawa, the monuments of the
Baimyos of Sendai, Uwajima,
Kaga^ and Satsuma are among
those first passed. Such noble-
men's monuments may be distin-
guished from those of commoners
by their peculiar pagoda shape
(Jap. sotoha or gorin), the five
superposed parts of which repre-
sent the five elements. A little
off the road to the r. are the
graves of the celebrated heroes
Atsumori and Kumagai Naozane,
and then those of the Dai-
myos of Hizen, Matsumae, and
Choshu; then — but we can only
pick out a few names from among
thousands — the early warrior
Tada-no-Manju (this is the oldest
monument in the cemetery), the
16th century chieftain Takeda
Shingen, the Hachisuka family,
li-kamon-no-Kami, the Daimyos
of Tosa, the traitor Akechi Mitsu-
hide whose monument has been
split from top to bottom by a
thunderbolt as a warning to faith-
less servants, and so on ad infini-
tum. In the cases of great families,
many subsidiary monuments sur-
round the chief one in the little en-
closure, and before this often stands
a tarii, the stone for which, as for
all the monuments, comes from a
place in the province of Bizen
called Mikage, a word that has
come to be the Japanese name for
'granite.' The monument of the
Ichikawa Danjuro family of actors,
just before reaching the Naha-no-
Hashi, or Middle Bridge, is distin-
guished by a thin pillar. That
with a prayer-wheel in front is
dedicated to Jizo, and is called the
Ase-kdki Jizo, because believed to
be covered every morning with the
perspiration which that god's
sufferings in hell for the good of
the human race bring out on
his body. The Daimyos of Geishu
have the second largest monument
in the cemetery, those of Suruga
the largest of all. Next we come
to that of the Imperial Princess
Sei-Kwan-in-no-Miya, 28 ft. high,
to those of the celebrated poet
Basho, of the saint Enko Daishi,
842
Tloute 46, — Through Yatnato to Koya-san.
of Asano Takami-no-Kami, the
unhappy lord of the Forty-seven
Eonins, etc., etc. We next arrive
at a shrine containing 1,000 gilt
images of Amida, with another
beside it having a statue of Kobo
Daishi at the age of 42, carved by
himself; and after that another
temple with pictures (mandara) by
the same saint of the two halves
of the Buddhist universe (Kongo-
Icdi and Taizo-hai). The next
feature in the walk is afforded by
some bronze images of Jizo, Fudo,
and Dainichi, placed behind a
trough of water. Believers sprinkle
this water over the images, in
order to benefit the. souls of their
own ancestors. Immediately be-
yond, is a small bridge called the
Muniyd no Hashi, or Nameless
Bridge, a corruption of Mi Twyo no
Hdshiy or Bridge of the August
Mausoleum. It is believed that
no one can cross this bridge who
is unacceptable to Kobo Daishi.
There is a tradition that Hideyoshi made
ft pilgriimage hither after he had risen to
the highest position in the Empire, and ac-
companied bv the hif^h-priest alone came
at night as far as the bridge, crossed it,
and turned back again without going a?
far as the tomb, thus satisfying himself
that the slaughter he had been compelled
to make of his enemies in order to seize
the supreme power and restore peace to the
nation, was approved by Kobo Daishi, and
that he might now pay his formal visit on
the morrow in full state, accompanied by
all the piinces, -without fear of being put
to shame before them.
A separate enclosure to the 1.
contains the unpretentious monu-
ments of several Mikados. We
next reach the Ma'nddrd, but first
look in at the octagonal Kotsu-do,
or Hall of Bones alreaidy mention-
ed, and peer through the gate of
the Cro Bydy or Tomb of Kobo
Daishi^ which is never opened save
on the 2l8t day of the 3rd moon,
old style, when new vestments
are provided for the dead saint.
We also perceive two small Shinto
shrines just showing through the
thick trees. The Mandoro, or HaU of
Ten Thousand Lamps« is a wooden
building 100 ft. long, and some-
what less than half that in <^pth,
with closed grated shutters. As
far as the eye can penetrate the
darkness of the interior, countless
brass lamps may be seen ranged in
rows. Of these only about one hund-
red are kept lighted, the present
reduced state of the monastery's
exchequer not permitting more
lavish expenditure.
No offering can be more acceptable in
the eyes of Buddhistic piety than burning
lamps, which typify the refulgent wisdom
of the gods Daiuichi and Araida. A story
is told which recalls the Bible story of the
widow's mite : — Ou some great occasion a
rich man presented ten thousand lamp9»
while a poor woman, who had nothing, cat
off her lopMT tresses to make up money enough
to present a single lamp. Nevertheless
her offering was the more acceptable of
the two ; and when a gust of wind arose,
the rich man's ten thousand lamps were
all blown out, but the poor woman' 8 single
lamp shone on with increased brilliancy.
Accordingly the largest lamp in the hall is
called the Hiaja no IttG, or Poor Woman's
Single Lamp.
So far the Cemetery. The tra-
veller now returns the way he
came, and, after picking up his
luggage, will see the rest of the
sights on his way back to the gate
leading in the direction of Kamuro.
Leaving the temple where we
have lodged, we wend through the
village, accompanied as before by
our priestly guide, sad traces of the
great fire of 1888 being visible all
around. First we visit the Kongo
Buji, or abbot's residence, an un-
usually handsome specimen of
Japanese domestic architecture,
adorned with gold sliding screens
by Kano Tan-yu, Sesshii, Tan-
zan, and other classical artists.
An old-fashioned arrangement to
be seen here, as in others of the
monks' residences, is what is called
the irori no nia, or * hearth room,*
which is an apartment having a
large square chimney like a pillar
and with a small altar on one
side. The monks sit round this
heated pillar in winter to recite
their scriptures. The room where
Tlie Kondo Temple, The Seminary,
848
Hidetsngn committed haraJciri has
been restored exactly in the style
of his period (end of 16th century).
We next proceed to the Shichi-
do Garan, or temples proper, and
passing by several which are un-
interesting, stop to examine the
Kondo, or Golden Kail. Burnt in
1843, but restored in 1852. this
:grand edifice fully deserves its
name, for the interior is ablaze
yrith gold and glorious colouring.
Nor is it only beautiful. The
keyaki wood, of which the huge
beams and columns consist, pro-
claims its solidity, and even the
magnificent carvings adorning the
•exterior are of the same material,
some of the slabs being 9 ft. long
by 4 ft. high. The plan of the
building is three squares, one with-
in the other. The outermost of
iihese squares is the uncoloured
-carved shell just mentioned; that
next to it is the gejin or nave, while
the innermost is the naijin or chan-
cel, and this it is that the artist
has so splendidly decorated with
•gold, with paintings of angels and
Buddhist deities, and with coloured
carvings of birds. Images of the
deities Kongo Satta, Fudo, Fugen,
Kong6-6, Qozanze Myo-o, and Ko-
knzo Bosatsu stand on a raised
dais, whose sides are filled in with
the peony and lion in gilt open-
work, while the ceiling above
them glows with rich paintings of
dragons having a phoenix in their
midst. The shrine guarded by
these images contains one of the
-god Yakushi carved by Kobo Dai-
shi himself. The mandara hanging
to the pillars represent, as usual,
.the two halves of the Buddhist
universe. On leaving, notice the
paintings of the Sixteen Rakan,
which are about 9 ft. sq. and ex-
ecuted in an extremely florid style.
The holy men are painted in four
groups of four each.
In an adjacent building the
•gigantic gilt images of the Go-chi
Nyorai, or Five Gods of Wisdom,
formerly in the Pagoda, have now
their temporary abode. The Saito,
or Western Pagoda, is a two-
-storied building of a curiously
complicated style of construction.
Among other minor buildings, may
be mentioned two small Shint^
shrines dedicated to the aboriginal
Japanese gods who ruled the moun-
tain before Kobo Daishi's advent,
— ^brilliantly painted with red
ochre, and forming a striking con-
trast to the adjacent grey unpaint-
ed Buddhist shrines; also the
KyodOy or Revolving Library, ele-
gantly constructed in the shape of
a two-storied pagoda, and the
MieidOy containing a celebrated
portrait of Ivobo Daishi painted
by his disciple Prince Shinnyo, the
eyes of which were dotted in by
the saint himself.
Leaving the enclosure that holds
all these buildings, we turn r. arid
see ahead the summit of Jin-ga-
mine, 50 cho distant from the far-
end of the great Cemetery, and
affording — at least so the monks
declare — a view over portions of no
less than thirty provinces. To the
1. is the Seminary (Gakurin), which
is not usually visited, but which
is excellently fitted up to ac-
commodate the 120 indoor stu-
dents and 200 outdoor students
who resort to it for religious in-
struction. Some of the class-rooms
are fitted up in European fashion
with benches and black-boards,
while others retain the old Japa-
nese style, — mats, a sort of dais
for the lecturer, and a kakenwno of
Kobo Daishi at one end of the
room. Each bedroom is shared by
two or three students. Before
meals, a long Buddhist grace is
intoned. From the Seminary we
soon reach the gate of the temple
grounds, and leave the monastery
of Koya-san by the way we en-
tered it, retracing our steps down
to the vill. of Kamuro.
[Instead of returning to Kamuro
844
Route 47. — From Kyoto to Ama-no-Hashidate.
and going on to Sakai, the
traveller wishing to visit
Wakayama (Inn, Fnji-gen),
the capital of the province of
Kishu, may reach it from
Koya-san by walking to Shi-
buta (Inn, Omi-ya), a distance
of 5 ri of 50 cho each (a little
over 7 ordinary ri, or about
17i m. English), and there
taking a jinrikisha over a
good road for 6 ri more. This
is a pretty trip. Wakayama
• still retains its ancient castle
in fairly good preservation.
The temple of Kiimi-dera, too,
about 25 cho out of the town,
has a charming view. The
way thither leads along a por-
tion of the coast noted for
its beauty, called Waka-no-
, lira. From Wakayama to
Sakai is a jinrikisha journey
of 14 ri. Coasting steamers
may also be availed of.]
The whole way from Kamuro to
Sakai can be done in jinrikishas,
and most of it is higlily pictur-
esque. One must walk up a portion
of the Kiimi-toge, which affords fine
views of the mountains of Kishu
r., and Yamato 1.
Mikkaiclii {Inn, Abura-ya), like
most other towns in the neigh-
bourhood of Koya-san, lives on the
pilgrims to that holy shrine, and is
the usual halting-place for the
night. From here on for some miles
there is a succession of hills, none
bowever so steep as to necessitate
alighting from a jinrikisha with
two good coolies. At the hamlet
of Yamamoto, the plain of Izumi
is seen stretching away at the
spectator's feet, and soon he enters
Fiikiimaclii (Inn, Shiba-ya), a
better place for those who seek
quiet and attention to stay at than
Mikkaichi, because less apt to be
fuU of pilgrims. Thence the road
leads along the broad fertile plain
to
Sakai (seep. 286).
EOUTE 47.
From Kyoto theough Tamba to
MiTAZU ON THE SeA OF JaPAN-
Ama-no-Hashidate. ■
Itinerat'y.
KYOTO to :— Ri. CU. M.
Kameoka 6 2 14f
Sonobe 4 21 Hi
Hiyama 3 31 9^
Ikuno 5 33 14|
Fukuchiyama 2 26 6f
Komori (Tadehara) 3 13 8i
Ogawa 2 20 6|
Yura 3 13 8i
MIYAZU 3 7 7f
Total 35 22 87
There is an excellent jinrikisha
road the whole way, and carriages
may be taken from Fukuchiyama
to Miyazu. Those whose sole
object is to visit Ama-no-Hashi-
date may prefer taking train to-
Tsuruga, whence steamer to Miya-
zu in 12 hrs. The first stages of
the journey, as far as Hiyama, ar&
dull travelling; but thence onwards
the scenery improves, the road
crossing and recrossing the Yura-
gawa amongst well-wooded hills
over undulating country.
Kameoka (fair accommodation)
was formerly the castle-town of a
small Daimyo, as was also
Sonobe (fair accommodation).
The Kwannon-toge is passed on
the way to
Hiyama (Inn, the old Honjin),
which is a good halting-place for
the night.
Ikuno on this route. should not
be confounded with the Ikuno in
Tajima noted for its silver mines.
Numerous uninteresting hamlets
are passed before reachikg
Fukuchiyama (Inn^ *Baikatsu).
The site of the former Daimyo's
castle, now occupied by a Shuito*
Legend of Oeyama.
845
"temple, is worth a visit. Fukuchi-
yama is girdled on three sides by
mountains : N., Mitake-yama ; W.,
Ana-no-ura-toge ; N.E., Oni-ga-jo,
w^hich derives its name from the
ogre who is supposed to have in-
liabited its fastnesses before he
"took refuge in Oe-yama further
north. His cave is still shown on
the hill-side.
An alternative way from Fnku-
•chi-yama to the coast is by boat
<iown the Yuragawa, so called from
the vill. of Yura where it debouches
into the sea. But travellers are
-advised to take the boat only as far
as Komori, 3 ri, the current being
swift down to that place, but
sluggish beyond. The passage oc-
cupies 2 hrs. either by passenger
boat, starting daily, or by private
boat. The scenery is romantic.
From
K5mori (Inn, Tan-yasu); onwards
there is a choice between the fine
new jinrikisha road (9 n) and the
•old_road (6^ ri) skirting the base
of Oeyama, a name well-known in
antique legend. Another name for
the mountain is Senjo-ga-take.
The legend of Oeyama, which we give
\3artly in the words of Mrs. T. H. James,
who has told it in a story entitled ' The
Ogre's Arm,' written for the Kobunsha
iJeries of Japanese Fairy-tales, is as
follows : —
Once upon a time there dwelt in Oe-
yama a race of ogres, whose chief was
-called Shuten Dqji. Now Shuten l^oji
and his band used to come down from
time to time upon the city of Kyoto,
■entering it by the large gate called Rasho-
mon, causing great terror to all the
inhabitants, many of whom they slaugh-
tered and whose lovely daughters they
carried away into captivity and shame.
There then lived in Kyoto a brave warrior
named Raiko, who had four retainers,
the niost daring of whom was Tsuna. So
Tsuna offered to watch alone one night
for the ogres' coming. This his master
permitted him to do ; and the result of his
tussle with Shuten Doji was that he got
the l)est of the tight, severing the mon-
ster's arm and carrying it home with him
as a trophy. Ogtcs are not lightly to be
tampei*ed with. Accordingly a famous
wizard who was consulted by Raiko and
Tsuna next day, advised that the arm be
put in a stro.og stone chest to be opened
on no pretence whatever, while Tsuna
was to purify himself by prayer and fast-
ing, and hold guard over the chest for
seven days and nights without speaking
to any mortal man or woman. Unless
these precautions were religiously ob-
served, the wizard predicted the occur-
rence of some dire misfortune. Tsuna
obeyed, and the ogre's arm was placed in
a strong stone chest, over which Tsuna
kept his holy vigil. At last one night,
when the seven days and nights were
almost accomplished, came a knocking at
the gate.
' Who is there ? ' cried Tsuna. * It is
your old aunt from the country,' an-
swered a cracked and feeble voice. * Pray
open the door.'
Tsuna answered, * I am under a vow to
hold converse with none until seven days
be past. I cdnnot open the door even to
my aunt,'
' I kuow that,' returned the voice. * But
I have come a long way on purpose to see
you. I am foot-sore and weary; surely
you will not turn me away.*
Tsuna still refused for some time ; but
at last he allowed himself to be persuaded
to open the door.
'I have heard of your noble exploit,'
said the old woman as she entered, ' and
have come all this long way to tell you
how proud T am of my brave nephew.'
'And where is the ogre's arm now?*
she continued, when Tsuna had thanked
her for her kindness in coming to see him.
' The arm is in this stone chest,' said he.
'Is it indeed now? Well, would you
believe it?— although I have lived all
these many years, yet I have never in my
life seen such a thing. Let me pray have
one little peep at it.'
' I am sorry,' answered Tsuna, * but my
vow forbids my opening the chest, or show-
ing the arm to any one, even for a moment,
until the seven days are past.'
At this the old woman burst into bitter
tears, refusing to be comforted. There-
upon Tsuna, who was a soft-hearted young
warrior, could withstand her no longer.
' Just one look then,' said he, and lifted
the lid of the chest.
The pretended aunt took .up the arm,
and seemed to ])e gazing at it in a kind of
rapture, when suddenly appearing in her
true shape, which was none other than
that of the ogre Shuten Doji, she shouted,
' My aim is my own again,' and imme-
diately vanished through a hole in the
roof.
I
Then the Mikado ordered BaikO to
follow up the ogres to theh* haunts and
exterminate them. An open attack
would have been vain. Raik5 therefore
had recourse to stratagem. He and his
four followers attired themselves as wan-
dering priests, and set out over the moun-
tains. When they had arrived in the
land of Tamba— w^andering about vaguely,
for they knew not where the ogres dwelt —
they one day met an old wood-cutter, who
was really none other than the great god.
846
Boute 47. — From Kyoto to Ama-no-Hashidate,
of Sumiyoshi in. disfiruise. By him they
were led to a stream where they found
a maiden washing some . blood-stained
frarments, and she, after many warn-
ings which they refused to heed, led
them into the ogres' cavern on Oeyama,
where their appearance caused almost as
much fright to the oi^es as the ogres'
appearance might be supposed to cause to
them. The reason was that the ogKB
quailed before the superior power of holy
priests of Buddha. Nevertheless the wan-
derers were admitted, they were feasted,
they danced for their hosts, and at
last induced the ogres, who were already
lialf-intoxicated, to drink some heavily
dragged mke which they had brought
with them for this purpose in sections of
bamboo. Shuten Ddji and his Imnd all
fell into a deep slumber, during which
Baikd and his companions hacked them
to pieces Thus was Kyoto freed from
the depredations of the ogres of Oeyama.
[Near Ogawa, a road diverges to
Maiznrn, (Inn, Watanabe),
which possesses the best har-
bour on the W. coast and has
recently been selected as one
of the new naval dep6ts.]
The valley of the Yuragawa,
which the main road follows, grows
more and more beautiful as one
approaches its mouth, till at last the
eye rests on the Sea of Japan with
rocky islets in_the offing.
Yura {Inn, Omori), though such
an out-of-the-way spot, is men-
tioned in the national annals as
the birthplace of Urashima Taro,
the Japanese Rip Van Winkle.
The legend of Urashima is one of the
oldest in the langunge, and is accepted as
veritable histoiy by the literati of the
older school. The original of the follow-
ing poem is at least as old as A.D. 760, and
probably far older :—
THE FISHER-BOY UKi.«HIMA.
*Tis Spring, and the mist comes stealing
O'er Suminoye's shore,
And I stand l)y the sea-sida musing
On the days that are no more.
I muse on the old-world story.
As the Ixxits gli«le to and fro.
Of the fisher-boy Urashima,
Who a-flshing loved to go.
How he came not ba-ck to the village
' Though sev'n suns had risen and set.
But rowed on past the Ixiunds of ocean.
And the Sea-God's daughter met ; 1
How they pledged their faith to eaclb
other.
And came to the Evergreen Land,
And entered the Sea-God's palace
So lovingly hand in hand.
To dwell for aye in that country.
The ocean-maiden and he,—
The country where youth and beauty
Abide ctemallj'.
But the foolish boy said, * To-morrow
I'll come back with thee to dwell ;-
But I have a word to my father,
A word to my mother to tell.*
The maiden answered, * A casket
I give into thine hand ;
And if that thou hopest truly
To come back to the Evergreen Land,.
' Then open it not, I charge thee !
Open it not, I beseech ! *
So the boy rowed home o'er the billows-
To Suminoye's beach.
But where is his native hamlet?
Strange hamlets line the .strand.
Where is his mother's cottage ?
Strange cots rise on either hand.
'What! in three short years since I
left it,'
He cries in his wonder sore,
'Has the home of my childhood vanished?"
Is the bamboo fence no more ?
* Perchance if I open the casket
Which the maiden gave to me.
My home and the dear old village"
Will come back as they used to be>-
And he lifts the lid, and there rises
A fleecy, silvery cloud.
That floats off to the Evergreen Country—
And the flsher-boy cries aloud;
He waves the sleeve of his tunic.
He rolls over on the ground.
He dances with fury ami horror.
Running wildly round and round.
But a sudden chill comes o'er him
That bleaches his raven hair.
And furrows with hoary wrinkles
The fonn erst so young and fair.
His breath grows fainter and fainter.
Till at last he sinks dead on the
shore ;
And I gaze on the spot where his cottage
Once stood, but now stands no more»
From Yura the road follows the
windings of the coast till it reaches
a large vill. where it turns inland^
and passes through a tunnel front
EoiUe 48. — The San-indo.
847
^hose mouth Ama-no-Hashidate is
seen straight ahead and Miyazu to
the 1. This is a charming section
of the route.
Miyaza (Inn, Ariki) is a small
town having considerable fisheries
and daily steamboat communica-
tion with Tsuruga, 12 hrs., and
occasional communication with
Sakai (for Matsue in Izumo) and
^th Shimonoseki.
Ama-no-Hashidate is famous
throughout the length and breadth
of Japan as one of the San-keit or
•Three Great Sights' of the Em-
pire. Described in prosaic topo-
graphical parlanc^^ it is a narrow
sandy spit stretching out to sea in ^
a S.E. direction for a distance of
not quite 28 cho, or nearly 2 m.
Its breadth is 32 ken, that is, about
190 ft. English. An avenue of
pine-trees runs right along it. The
little bay which it encloses, called
Iwaiaki no minato, is 1 W from E. to
W., and over 1 ri from N. to S.
The depth of the bay in the middle
is 11 fathoms ; but the entrance is
too shallow to admit any but the
smallest craft. Hence, though the
waves may be in seething commo-
tion on one side, on the other but a
few yards off there is the perfect
stillness of a mill-pond. Chionji,
a Buddhist temple opposite the tip
of Ama-no-Hashidate, is 1 m.
from Miyazu, and may be reached
either by land or by boat.
From Chionji passengers are con-
veyed across to the tip of the
peninsula in a ferry-boat, a dis-
tance of some 200 yds. Such are
the dry facts relating to this
celebrated spot. But the magic
beauty of it must be seen to be
appreciated, it being, as a Japanese
poet has said, past the power of
words to tell. In order to see it
to best advantage, the traveller
should climb the neighbouring
hill of Myoken-zan, where there
will be spread out before him on a
fine day a wondrous panorama of
sea and mountains with the deli-
cate, fairy-like, pine-clad peninsula
in the foreground.
The curious name of Ama-no-Haehidate,
literally ' the bridge (or ladder) of heaven,*
is said to have been given to this place in
allusion to the ama no vJci-ka3hi, or * float-
ing bridgre of heaven,' whereon the creator
and creati^ess, Izanugi and Izanaini, stood
when they stirred up the brine, of primeval
chaos "witn their jewelled spear, the drops
from which consolidated, into the first
island of the Japanese archipelago. The
little Shinto shrine at the point of the
peninsula is. however, dedicated to Hashi-
date Myojin, apparently a local deity.
EOUTE 48.
The San-indo.
the coast of the sea of japan
from mitaztj westward to hagi :
baths of togo-ike, ascent of
daisen, matsue, kizuki and the
great shinto temple of izumo,
SAMBE-TAMA. [HAMADA ACROSS
COUNTRY TO HIROSHIMA ON THE
INLAND SEA.]
The principal object of interest
on this route is the Great Temple
of Izumo. Notwithstanding the
historic and religious interest of
this temple, it may be doubted
whether the majority of travellers
will find the long and arduous land
journey sufficiently repaid. An
easier way of reaching it is by
steamer from Shimonoseki to Sakai,
but this also has its discomforts.
A third way is to strike across
country from Okayama or Kura-
shiki on the Sanyo Railway.
348
Eoute 48, — The San-indo.
Itinerary.
MIYAZXJ to :— Ri. Cho. M.
Iwataki 2 28 6|
Kuchiono i 20 3f
Mineyama 1 23 4
Nonaka 3 23 9
Kumihama 2 8 5^
TOYOOKA 3 7 71
Yushima 2 31 7
Takeno 1 26 4}
Naraya 2 :^4 6^
Kazumi 2 2 5
Yobe 2 7 5^
Hamisaka 3 18 8i
Uratomi 4 18 11
TOTTORI 4 32 12
Takara^i 4 26 Hi
Aoya 2 25 6i
Tomari 1 34 4|
Hashizu 1 31 4^
Kurayoshi 2 16 6
Yura 2 25 6^
Akazaki 2 23 6^
Shimoichi 2 5 5^^
Mikuriya 1 29 4^
Yodoe 2 7 5^
YONAGO 2 17 6
Yasuki 2 31 7
Arashima 1 13 3|r
Kajiya 1 10 3
MATSUE 2 29 6f
Anamichi 4 31 llf
Naoe 2 9 5i
Imaichi 1 26 4^
Oda 4 7 lOi
Hane 3 7 7f
Ota 2 2 5
Omori 3 30 9i
Fukumitsu 3 14 Si
Asari 2 17 6
Etsu 1 21 3f
HAMADA 5 17 33}
Misumi 5 14 13i
Masuda 4 34 12
liura 4 10 10^
Esaki ..; 2 3 5
Siisa 1 31 4h
Uda 2 32 7
Nago 3 5 7f
HAGI.... 3 33 Oh
Total 138 31 338}
At the vill. of Iwataki there is a
choice of roads to Toyooka, — the
new jinrikisha road (shinddj, and
a shorter way for the pedestrian
over Myoken-zan to Kuchiono.
This latter alternative is recom-
mended, on account of the beautiful
panorama which it affords of the
pine-clad peninsula of Ama-no-
Hashidate, described on p. 347.
Luggage should be sent by the .
new road to meet the traveller at
Kuchiono, between which place and
Kiimihaiiia (Inns, Yoshizawa,
Taniguchi) the Hijiyama-toge is
crossed, commanding a fine pros-
pect of the mountains of Tajima
and the valley of the Sanogawa.
Similarly beautiful is the descent,
after passing the boundary line of
the provinces of. Tango and Ta-
jima, to the town of
Toyooka (Inns, Miki-ya, Oba-hei).
Between here and Yushima there
is a curious cave called Gemmudd.
Yushima (Inns, Yuto-ya, Ita-ya),
possesses hot-springs. Here also
boxes are manufactured out of
wheat-stalks and mulberry wood
From Yushima the road leads for
some fifty dreary miles along the
coast to Tottori.
[There is an alternative path
further inland leading over the
the Kama-toge and other steep
passes — more picturesque, but
not practicable for jinriki-
shas. It goes through the vill.
of Ylimiira (Inns, Tomi-ya,
Yane-ya), locally famed for its
hot sulphur springs.]
Tottori (Inns, Kozeni-ya, Ko-
me-ya), now the capital of the
prefecture of the same name and
also of the province of Inaba, was
formerly the seat of Matsudaira
Hoki-no-Kami. Its chief indus-
tries are cotton and silk, but
its prosperity has considerably
declined since the fall of feuda-
lism. From Tottori the road skirts
some pretty lagoons encircled by
pine-clad hillocks to Tomari. The
Togo-ike, Ascent of Daisen. Matsue,
849
"traveller is, however, advised to
make a detour of 1 ri 30 chb to an-
other lagoon called
Tog'O-ike, perhaps the pleasant-
est spot on this coast at which to
make a lengthened halt. Not only
are tliere excellent inns, the Yoyo-
k-wan and Unryu-tei, but also good
natural hot baths^ boating, and fish-
ing. The springs, in their present
position date only from 1882.
Formerly hot water used to
issue from the hillside; but a
flood altered the configuration of
tlie soil, sweeping away the old
springs and causing new ones to
gusli out in their stead. One rises
in the middle of the lake, and kills
all the fish that approach it. The
pathway skirts the lake, leading
back to the main road at Tajiri, l|
ri from Togo. Soon the Amano-
gawa is crossed, and the first
glimpse of Daisen obtained. The
road onwards through
Akazalci {Inn, Yamame-ya) is
dull until reaching Mikuriya, where
a path diverges 1. to Daisen, the
main road continuing along the
coast to Yonago.
[Daisen, or Oyama, is 6,650 ft.
high, and is the loftiest as
well as the most sacred
mountain in the San-indo.
Here dwel^ the great Shin-
to god, Onamuj i - no - Miko -
to. Founded in A.D. 718, the
monastery owes its lasting
■celebrity to the seventh abbot,
Jikaku Daishi, who is said to
have landed here on his return
from China, whither he had
gone to study esoteric mys-
teries. It attained its greatest
prosperity in the 14th century,
at about the lime when the
hapless Emperor Go-Daigo was
exiled to the Oki Islands.
There were then no less than
250 temples in all on the
mountain. During the Toku-
gawa regime, when the centre
of civilisation had shifted to
Eastern Japan, these had de-
creased to 40, and now little
remains but moss-covered
ruins and a few monks in
abject poverty. The latter eke
out a hvelihood by letting
rooms to pilgrims, to whom,
however, their creed forbids
their offering a more generous
diet than potatoes and other
scanty vegetables. The tem-
ples are situated half-way up
the mountain side; the way
is execrable, but the view
from the top extensive. The
chief features are the Oki
islands in the offing, Sambe-
yama on the borders of Izu-
mo and Iwami to the W., and
Mikuni-yama and the moun-
tains of Tajima and Tamba to
the E. It is best to descend
from Daisen to Kuruma Omn-
ra, 1 ri from Yonago.]
Tonago (Inns, Komego, Yuwasa)
is the largest town in the province
of Hoki. It is a busy place
in constant communication with
Matsue. The distance to Matsue
by road is over 8 ri ; by water only
4 ri. The latter way is to be pre-
ferred, on account of the pretty
scenery of the Naka-umi and Shin-
jiko lagoons. Yonago is also the
port of embarkation for the' Oki
Islands, which lie some 40 m. to the
northward.
Matsne (Inns, Omoya, Ueda), the
most important town in the San-
indo, is noted for its agates and
crystals and for the manufacture
of paper. Formerly the seat of
Matsudaira Dewa-no-Kami, the re-
mains of whose castle stand on a
height in its midst, Matsue is &
clean and prosperous city, splendid-
ly situated on the borders of the
Shinjiko lagoon surrounded by
lesser hills, beyond which rise the
blue silhouettes of distant moun-
tain ranges with Daisen towering
high above all. The sea-port of
Matsue is Sakai^ whence there is
850
Eoute 48, — TJie San-indo,
general steam communication np
and down the coast.
In order to visit the great
Shinto Temple of Izumo at Kizuki,
the traveller should abandon the
highway, and take steamer to
Hiraia near the W. end of the
lagoon, whence the journey is
made by jinrikisha in 3 to 4 hrs.,
the whole distance being 10 a '**» or
25i miles. Sambe-yama looms up in
front. _
Kizoki (Inns, Inaba-ya, Oshima-
j&), a quaint little town at the
base of Tabiishi-yama, is famed
throughout the length and breadth
of Japan for the Great Temple of
Iznmo (Izumo O-yashiro), which is
dedicated to the god Opamuji and
disputes with Ise the honour of
being the most ancient and
Tcnerable shrine of the Shinto
religion.
The province of Izumo, and more or less
the whole country eastward to Tajima and
T^ngo, together with the Oki Islands,
occupy a prominent place as the theatre of
many of the tales forming the old Japa-
nese mythology. Indeed that mythology
has been traced by students to tlu^e cen-
tres, of which one is KyUsha with its
warlike legends of Jimniu Tenn5 and
Jingd K5g5, ancestors of the Imperial
line, another is Yamato which in early
days seems to have had native prinoes of
its own, and the third is Izumo, wherein
aire located strnnge tales of gods, and
monsters, and speaking animals, and caves
through which entrance to Hades is ob-
tained. Susa-no-o-no-Mikoto, bom from
the nose of the creator Izanagi and brother
to the Sun-Goddess Ama-terasu, is the
hero of some of these tales. The hero of
most of the rest is_his descendant Ona-
muji, also called Okuni-nushi, that is,
* the Master of the Great Land,' in other
words, the King of Izurao, to whom later
on an embassy whs sent from heaven,
requesting him to abdicate the sovereignty
in favour of the Sun-Goddess's descendant,
Srogeoitor of the earthly Mikados. To this
e consented, on condition of having a tem-
ple built for his reception and worship. Bo
they built him a grand shrine on the shore
of the land of Izumo, * making stout the
temple pillars on the nethermost rock-
bottom, and making high the cross-beams
to the plain of high heaven,'— and there he
is worshipped to this day, the very name
of Kizuki preserving to the faithful the
recollection of the pestles {kine) with which
the soil was beaten {jaukn) to render the
foundations firm and everlasting.
The buildings, which are in the
unomamented style of pure Shinto,
impress the beholder by their great
size and solidity and the majesty
of the approaches under succes-
sions of colossal torii. The services
are conducted by priests gorgeously
arrayed in white and purple
robes with gold figuring. The
chief priest, who is supposed to be
the eighty-second descendant in a
direct line from the god Susa-no-o,
used to be styled ITd-gami — ^that is»
a god upon earth. The temple
possesses many curiosities and
valuable documents. Here, too,
may be seen the ancient fire-drill,
which, though but a simple board
with holes wherein a rapidly revol-
ving stick kindles sparks, is still
preserved as the only lawful means
of producing the sacred fire. There
are nineteen other shrines, not
consecrated to any deities in par-
ticular, but in which all the Shinto
gods and goddesses are supposed to
assemble during the month of
October. For this reason October
is, in Izumo alone, called Kami-^rU
xvki, ' the month with gods'; where-
as, in the classical parlance of the
rest of Japan, it is Kami-na-zuJei,
* the month without gods,' because
all the other shrines of the Empire
are supposed to be then abandoned
by their tutelary deities. On the sea-
shore is a much smaller temple —
the scene, so it is said, of the abdica-
tion of the sovereignty of Izumo
by the 'great god Onamuji. From
200,000 to 250,000 pilgrims visit the
Q-reat Shrine yearly. All day long
the sound of the clapping of hands,
to call the attention of the god, is
unbroken like the sound of a
cataract.
Owing to the ^^prominent posi-
tion of Izumo in mythology and
legend, many Shinto shrines, be-
sides_ that dedicated to the great
god Onamuji are found scattered
about the province. Such are
Kumano Jinja, 5 H S. of Matsue, de>
dicated to Susa-no-o ; Mio Jinja, 8-
The Great Temple of Izumo,
S5l
T% N.E. of Mat sue, dedicated to
Himko, the first child of the crea-
'fcor and creatress Izanagi and Iza-
nami ; and Yaegaki Jinja, only 1 ri S.
of Matsue, in the mountain village
of Oba. The deity there enshrined,
'wife of Susa-no-o, is believed to be
she who decides the lot of mar-
riage for mortals ; and young men
desiring good wives and young girls
wishing for good husbands visit
Oba to make their petitions to the
goddess.
The story of Susa-no-o, of his wife
Inada-hime, and of the palace with an
eight-fold fence {i/a-e-gaki, whence the
temple's name) which he built for her
reception, is thus narrated in the Koj'i-
Hi —
After having Ijeen expelled from
beaven, Susa-no-o descended to a place
called Torikami at the head-waters of the
River Hi in the land of Izumo. At this
time some chopsticks came floating down
the stream. So Susa-no-o, thinking that
there must be people at the head-waters
of the river, went up it in quest of them,
"when he came upon an old man and an
old woman, two of them, who had a young
girl between them and were weeping.
Then, he deigned to ask, * Who are ye P *
So the old man replied, saying, ' I am an
• earthly deity, son of the Great Grod of
• Mountains. I am called by the name of
• Ashi-nazuchi, my wife is called by the
• name of Te-nazuchi, and my daughter
• is called by the name of Inada-hime.'
Again, he asked, * What is the cause of
your crying ? * The old man answered,
saying, 'I had originally eight young
girls as daughters ; but an eight-forked
serpent has come every year and devoured
one, and now is its time to come, where-
fore we weep.* Then he asked him,
• What is the serpent like ? ' The old man
answered, saying, * Its eyes are like the
winter cherry. It has one body, with
eight heads and eight tails. Moreover,
on its body grows moss, and also chamoecy-
paris and cryptomeria trees. Its length
extends over eight vallcj'^s and eight hills ;
and if one looks at its belly, it is all con-
stantly bloody and inflamed.' Then
Susa-no-o said to the old man, * If this he
thy daughter, wilt thou give her to me ? '
He replied, saying, * With reverence, but I
know not thine august name.' Then
Susa-no-o replied, saying, *I am elder
brother to the Groddess of the Sun, and
have just descended from Heaven.' Then
the old man and his wife said, .' If that be
so, we will reverently offer her to thee.*
So Susa-no-o, at once taking and chang-
ing the young girl into a multitudinous
and close-toothed comb which he stuck
into his top-knot, said to the old man and
his wife,* Do you distil some sahSf refining
it eight times ; also make a fence round
about ; in that fence make eight gates ; at
each gate tie together eight platforms ; on
each platform put a vat, and into each
vat pour the sake refined eight times,
and wait.' So ^s they waited after
having thus prepared everything in
accordance with his bidding, the eight-
forked serpent came truly, as the old
man had said, and immediately dipped
a head into each vat and drank the mke.
Thereupon it was intoxicated with drink-
ing, and all the heads lay down and slept.
Then 8usa-no-o drew the great sabre that
was girded on him, and cut the serpent in
pieces, so that the river Hi flowed on
changed into a river of blood. There-
upon Susa-no-o sought in the land of
Izumo for a place where he might build
a palace. Then he arrived at a place called
Suga, and in that place he built a palace
to dwell in. When he built the palace,
clouds rose up thence, whereupon he com-
posed a song which said
' Eight clouds arise.
* The eightfold fence of Izumo
* Makes an eightfold fence
* For the spouses to retire within.
•Oh ! that eightfold fence ! *
So far this ancient tale, as given in the
Kojiki. The number eight, so often men-
tioned in it, is the Japanese mystic num-
ber. The concluding little poem is venerat-
ed by the Japanese as the earliest effort of
the native muse. The tale still lives, not
only in the pages of the Kojiki^ but in the
hearts of the simple Izumo folk. Almost
eyery spot in hill or dale has some shrine
commemoi-ating an act or tracing the
footsteps of Susa-no-o, of the maiden his
first love, or of her parents. Eveiy place
where the serpent can possibly be con-
ceived to have passed still holds some
legend concerning it. "
A pretty 4 ri excursion from
Kizuki is to the banks of the Kobe-
gawa, which, for the space of
nearly a mile, exhibits charmingly
fantastic rock scenery. The best
plan is to take a boat down th^
river. A second, longer and very
much rougher, expedition is up
Sainbe-yama, the highest mountain
in all this country-side, Daisen
only excepted. The view from th&
top over the sea of Japan and
multitudinous mountain ranges is
very fine. Other excursions are to
Ichibata-yama, a celebrated resort
for persons suffering from diseases
of the eyes, who go there to be
cured by the divine power of the
Buddhist "^ god Yakushi Nyorai ;
S52
Roide 49, — The Island of Aivaji,
and to Harmmura which possesses
delightful hot-springs, whose waters
are led into every house and are
equally good for drinking and for
bathing in.
The main road leads right along
the coast to Hamada in the pro-
vince of Iwami, and thence to
Hagi, the capital of the province
of Nagato (Choshu); but the
scenery is hardly such as to com-
pensate for the roughness of the
way, except in the eyes of those who
wish above all things to traverse
unbeaten tracks. Both Hamada
and Hagi have steam connection
with Shimonoseki, and also with
places on the W. coast.
Hamadii {Innsy Dogu-ya, Hama-
oka) is chiefly known on account
of the terrible earthquake which
half wrecked it in 1872, and in
which over 2,000_ persons perished.
Hagi {Inrit Osaka-ya) was in
early feudal times the residence of
the great Mori family, the Daimyos
of Choshii, before their removal to
the town of Yamaguchi, 12 ri fur-
ther to the south.
[There is a cross-country road
from Hamada to Hiroshima on
the Inland Sea, fi distance of
approximately 30 ri, or say,
3 days' journey. The first
part is very rough, over steep
hills and with scant accom-
modation; but jinrikishas can
be taken on portions of the
road. From Mizaka, which is
on the boundary of the pro-
vinces of Iwami and Aki, and
where is also the water-shed
between the Sea of Japan and
the Inland Sea, it is down -hill
almost all the way for over 12
ri to Kobe, whence a run of
4 ri on the flat takes one into
the suburbs of Hiroshima.]
EOUTE 49.
The Island op Awajt.
The Island of Awaji, situated a,±
the eastern entrance of the Inland
Sea, can be easily reached by small
native steamer from Kobe (Hyogo)
in 2 hrs. to Kariya, which is the
nearest port touched at. The steam-
ers, after calling at Kariya, con-
tinue on to Shizuki, 40 min.,. and.
to Sumoto, the capital, 40 min.
Awaji may also be reached by
sailing or rowing-boat from AkasM
or Maiko near Kobe, the distance
across the strait at its narrowest
part being only 28 cho, and the
passage being one which is con-
stantly made.
The chief distances on the island
are as follows : —
East Coast— Si. Che. M.
Kariya to Shizuki 3 10 8
Shizuki to Sumoto 3 13 8i
Sumoto to Yura 2 17 6
Southern Inland Road —
Sumoto to Hirota 1 29 4^
Hirota to Fukura 3 28 9i
(Or straight across from
Shizuki to Fukura,
without going round
' by Sumoto) 4 — 9f
Western Inland Road —
Fukura to Koenami ... 2 10 5i
Koenami to Minami-
dani 3 22 8f
Minami-dani to Grunge 3 — 7i
(Or from Fukura to Gunge vii
Minato and Kawakami, about 1
ri less.)
West Coast —
Gunge to Tsukue 3 21 8f
Tsukue to Iwaya 2 29 6f
Iwayaf to Kariya 2 19 6J
t Properly speaking, Iwaya is at the
Nortli-Easterii extremity of the island.
But thjs ilivision of the roads is practically
the more convenient.
East Coast from Kariya to Sumoto.
85&
DiBTAKGES BY SeA FBOM AwAJI TO
THE Mainland.
Iwaya to Akashi in Ha- ^i- Cho. 3f.
rima 1 23 4
TuratoKadainKishu... 2 30 7
^Fukura to Muki in Awa
(Islandof Shikoku) ... 3 2 7 J
A trip to Awaji is much to be
Teconunended during the spring
and autumn or in mild winter
weather, the climate being mode-
rately warm, the scenery pictur-
esque, and the roads fairly good.
Jinrikishas can be obtained al-
most everywhere. The best inns
are those at Sumoto (Nabeto
and Kuwaji),Fukura(Izuman),and
Gunge (Shinkuma). There is also
fair accommodation at Yura (Ta-
naka-ya) and at Iwaya. The other
inns are rather poor, but every
village offers accommodation of
some sort. The tourist who wishes
to explore the island thoroughly,
is recommended to land at Kariya,
and make the round in the order
described below. This will take
3 or 4 days, according as steamers,
hours, weather, «fec., may fit in.
Persons pressed for time can see
the prettiest part of the scenery,
which lies on the E. coast, by
taking the steamer from Kobe
to Sumoto, and returning next
looming.
Sixtory. — The island of Awaji is men-
tioned in the earliest Japanese legends as
the first rasult of the marriage of the
creator and creatress, Izanagi and Iza-
nami, when they set about giving birth to
the various islands of the Japanese archi-
pelago. It is also related that in very
ancient times the water for the Imperial
Household was brought over from Awaji
in boats ; and the beauties of the harbour
of Yura have been sung by poets from
time immemorial. Coming down to his-
torical days, the unfortunate Emperor
Junnin was exiled here in A.D, 764,
having been deposed by his predecessor,
the Empress Koken, a sort of Japanese
Messalina, who added to her other ez-
oesses a wild desire for the Imperial
power which was not properly hers, and
who, having once abdicated in favour of
Junnin, wished to re-ascend the throne.
Junnin endeavoured to escape from Awaji,
bat died there in the following year, pro-
bably a victim to assassination. During
the Middle Ages, the lordship of the
island and of different portions of it
passed successively into the hands of
several feudal chiefs, and finally of the
Hachisukaf amUy and of their dependants,
the Inada. The whole island now forms
part of the Prefecture of HyOgo. The
castle of Sumoto, which place has long
been considered the capital, was con-
structed in the middle of the 16th century
by Ataka Fuyuyasu, a scion of the Miyo-
shi family.
The scene as the steamer ap-
proaches Kariya is most pictur-
esque,— delightful little coves and
peaceful nooks, pine-trees on the
strand, small valleys stretching up
towards verdure-clad hills, and in
the distance the hazy outline of
Senzan, the highest mountain on
the island, and of the high land
beyond. This style of scenery,
ever varied in its details, continues
all along the E. coast to Sumoto
and Yura; and jinrikishas bowl
rapidly over the well-kept
road. It will generally be found
best to spend the first night at
Sumoto. Those having another
day to spare may turn off inland
shortly after leaving Shizuki, and
go to Sumoto via the top of Sen-
zan. Jinrikishas can be engaged
as far as Futatsu-ishi, 1 ri 24 cho ;
but it will probably be more
satisfactory to walk the whole way,
taking some 6 hours. The country
is everywhere pretty. The actual
ascent is about 1 ri in length. Half-
way up is the temple of Koshinji,
which commands a fine view in the
direction of Kobe. Thence to the
top the path lies through a wood
of cherry-trees, oaks, firs, etc.,
some of the firs presenting a very
curious appearance, the soil having
worn away from their roots, leav-
ing the latter poised high above
the level of the surrounding-
ground. From the summit of Sen-
zan itself there is but little view,
owing to the trees which crown
the mountain, and which from most
parts of the island give it a
peculiar square-topped appearance.
S64:
Route 49. — The Island of Awaji.
The temple on the summit is called
Senk5ji. It has a fine new solid
gate and belfry ; but the hondo, or
main edifice, and the three-storied
pagodh. are old.
It« foundation is said to date from A.D.
901, when a hunter named Chtida having
shot at and hit a stag (another versiou
says a boar), discovered that it was in
reality an imape of the merciful divinity
Kwannou that he had thus sacrilegiously
injured. He thereupon assumed the garb
of a Buddhist monk and the Buddhist
name of Jakunin, and raised a shiine to
Kwannon on the spot where the incident
.had occurred.
On the way down on the side
towards Snnioto, that town comes
in sight to the 1. with Kishu and
the islets of the Kii Channel be-
yond it, while to the r. are the
mountains of Awa in Shikoku.
From the base of Senzan to the
Aiya waterfall, and thence to
Sumoto, the path leads mostly
across a fertile plain. Those not
desirous of visiting the fall, which,
though a pretty place for a picnic,
is by no means extraordinary, can
:go straight to Sumoto from the
base of Senzan, the distance being
stated to be 1 ri 14 cho.
The former castle of Sumoto no
longer exists, and in its grounds a
court-house and a prison have been
erected. The production for which
Sumoto is chiefly noted is a sort of
marmalade made out of an excellent
variety of orange resembling the
Seville orange^ and called Naruto-
mikan. It is sold in boxes with
another pleasant sweetmeat com-
posed of acorns, cinnamon, and
sugar; and the two sweetmeats
together are known by the name
of uhi-liashi, or. * floating bridge,'
in allusion to the legend of Izanagi
and Izanami mentioned below.
Another preserve special to Sumoto
is the hiwa-no-ne, or * sound of the
lute,' which is made of plums.
Foreigners will perhaps be inclined
to think that it stands to the palate
in somewhat the same relation as
Japanese music does to the ear.
A spare day at Sumoto might
pleasurably be devoted to the
ascent of KashiiDara-yamay the
highest point of the S. range ot
the island, commanding a very fine
view inland all over the S. plains
of Awaji, its distant northern hills»
the sea, the coast of Kishu, • Nu-
shima (the odd islet off Awaji),
and some islets off the coast of
Shikoku. To obtain this view it
is necessary to go up through the
wood behind the temple. From
Kashiwara-yama one may descend
to Yiira, whence there is a 2 ri
ride or walk along a beautiful
shore. A huge fort intended to
command the Kii Channel is in
process of erection at Yura.
The interest on the Southern In-
land Eoad leading from Sumoto to
Fukura is mainly archseologicaL
There is a curious mound called
Onogoro-jima, i.e., the Island of Ono-
goro, at a short distance from the
village of Yagi or Yogi, where
the path to it' diverges to the r,
from the main road, and soon
leads to a dry river-bed where it is
necessary to alight from the jin-
rikishas.
A very early Japanese tradition pre-
served in the Kojiki, tells us that Izanagi
and Izanami, when they were about
to set to work to produce the Japanese
archipelago, ' stood upon the Floating
Bridge of Heaven, pushed down the
jewelled spear and stirred with it, where-
upon, when they had stirred the Inine
till it went curdle-curdle, and drew the
spear up, the brine that dripped down
from the end of the spear was piled up
and became an island. This is the Islana
of Onogoro.*
Several islets on the coast of
Awaji contend for the. honour of
being this first-fruit of creation,
and this inland claimant may well,
by the ignorant country-people, be
supposed to have been once itself
an island, standing up as it does
prominently from the surrounding
rice-field flats. In reality there
would seem to be little doubt as to
its being the funeral mound of
some very ancient prince, all
memory of whom has passed away.
OnogorO'jima, The Potteries, Nanito Whirlpool. 855
There is a small shrine on it de-
dicated to Izanagi and Izanami,
and at the southern end of it a stone
called the sehirei-ishi or * wagtail
stone,' with reference to a detail of
the creation legend for which Vol.
Ill, Part I, Appendix, pp. 69-70, of
the * Transactions of the Asiatic So-
ciety * may be consulted. A hole has
"been scooped out on the W. side of
the mound by women who mix frag-
ments of the earth with water, and
drink it as a charm to ensure easy
delivery. Almost within a stone's
throw is a clump of reeds called
Ashi-wara- koJcu.
A»hi-tcara-no-kuni, i.e. the Land of Rieed-
Plains, is an ancient name for Japan. But
the country-people, mistaking ashi^ * a
reed,' for aghi, ' the foot,' have invented a
story to the effect that this is the spot on
which Izanami first set foot when he
came down to earth.
After visiting Onogoro-jima, the
jinrikishas are rejoined, and the
hamlets of Oenami and Koenami
passed through. The latter is
marked by two or three very fine
pine-trees. The pine-trees of the
whole island, however, are those
which form an avenue lining the
main road for a distance of 50 cho
just at this part of the journey.
In order to enjoy the sight of
them, it is worth while turning
into the main road as soon as the
avenue is seen to the 1.
A further detour to the 1. is
needed if it be intended to visit
the vill. of Iganoy where, at the
establishments of two families
called Mimpei and Sampei, the
potteries for which Awaji is noted
are carried on. Strangers easily
gain admittance.
This peculiar ware was first produced
between the years 1830 and 184o by one'
Kaja Mimpei, a man of considerable pri-
vate means, who devoted himself to the
ceramic art out of pure enthusiasm.
Directing his efforts at first to reproduc-
ing the deep green and straw yellow
glazes of China, which country he visited
in quest of information, he had exhausted
flkhnost his entire resources before suc-
cess came ; and even then the public was
slow to recognise the merits of his ware.
Now, howev^, connoisseurs greatly prize
genuine old pieces by Mimpei, some of
which combine various colours so as to
imitate tortoise-shell, while others have
designs incised or in relief, or are skil-
fully decorated with gold and silver. At
the present-day the quality of Awaji ware
has greatly deteriorated, though Sampei
has won prizes in Australia and else-
where. The pieces are mostly monochro-
matic and intended for every-day use.
The next object of interest on.
the road is the Tumulus of
the unfortunate Emperor Junnin,
already mentioned. Being 202 Icem,
in length and 72 in breadth, while
the whole is surrounded by a moat
and covered with a dense grove
fuU of singing-birds, this tumulus
forms a very prominent object in
the scene. It is commonly known
as Tenno no Mori, that is, the Em-
peror's Grove. That of Junnin's
mother, TaemaFujin, lies 8 or 10
cho away from it in a S.W. direction.
After leaving these mounds, a
jinrikisha ride of about ^ hr. brings
us to the little sea-port town of
Fuknra, where it will probably be
best to spend the second night.
The lion of the place is the violent
rush of water through the Narvio
Channel, which separates the is-
lands of Awaji and Shikoku and
connects the Inland Sea with the
Pacific Oc^an. It is a truly grand
sight, especially at spring-tides,
when no junk can attempt the
passage ; and it should certainly
not be missed. Boats are furnished
at a reasonable charge by the pro-
prietor of the inn at Fukura ; and
the expedition, which takes from
4 to 6 hours, is attended by no
danger, passengers being rowed
or sailed out under the shelter of
the coast to within easy view of the
strait, and being able to view the
whole panorama either from the
boat or from some rocks on which it
is usual to land. The best time of
aU is said to be the 3rd day of the
3rd moon, old style (some time at
the end of March or in the first
half of April), when the people of
the neighbouring districts on both
sides of the channel take a holiday
856
Eoute 49. — The Island of Awaji.
and go out in boats to see the rufih
of the briny torrent. The breadth
of the channel is estimated at 18
€hd ; bnt some rocks in the middle
divide it into two uneqnal parts,
called respectively 0-naruto and
Ko^naruto, i.e., the Greater and the
Ijesser Naruto. The Greater Na-
ruto being on the Shikoku side,
that side probably affords an even
finer sight than is to be obtained
from Awaji. Looking from the
boat, if on the Awaji side, the
province of Awa in the Island of
Shikoku is seen in front; to the
r. of it stretches the long line of
Shozushima, well-known for its
granite quarries; while further
r., in the extreme distance, are
the mountains of Harima on the
mainland, the little island of
Ejima sticking up in front of them
like a cocked hat. The rocks on
the Awaji side are tilted up at a
considerable angle, and are here
and there lined with pine-trees
which give them an appearance
somewhat resembling that of a
painting in the Chinese style. For
soft winning beauty, however,
neither this nor any part of the
W. Coast, excepting towards the
North is comparable to the E.
Coast of the island. On the way
back, the boatman may suggest
landing at Kemuri-shima and at
Susaki, the two islets in Fukura
harbour; but it is hardly worth
while to do sb. Kemuri-shima is
the high, thickly wooded islet,
Susaki the low sandy one. At the
summit of the former is an in-
significant shrine dedicated to
Kwannon.
On leaving Fukura it is besi; to
take jinrikisha to Minato, a dis-
tance called 2i ri of 50 cho each,
but more probably 2^ ordinary ri
of 36 cho. The first part of the
road leads near the Mound of the
Emperor Junnin, but turns off to
the 1. skirting the W. side of the
Talley. The prettiest part of the
ride — for jinrikishas can be takexr
— is along the embankment of a
small river flowing some feet above^
the level of the surrounding plain^
over which a fine view is com-
manded, with Senzan marked by
a clump of trees on its summit and
the mountains of Harima in the
extreme distance. The village of
Minato is remarkable for its salt
factories, and for a temple dedicated
to Kwannon which resembles a
small fortified castle. Hence it is
possible to proceed either under
the shadow of the pine-trees by the
beach (locally famous under the
name of Kei n© Matsubara), or
else to strike inland. The views
are of the coast of Harima, of
Shozushima, and of the mountains
of Awa behind Shozushima.
The village of Kawakanii is also
known as Ten j in, from the name
of a temple^ — formerly a very fine
one — which it contains. There is
fair accommodation at the Tamaya
inn, where the third night should
be spent if it is too late to push on
further. On the way hence to
Gunge, it may be worth the while
of those who wish to see the largest
Shinto temple on the island to
turn aside a few cho from the main
road to visit the Ichi-no-miya, as it
is called, in the vill. of Taga. The
Government has spent money on
the place, and renovated the build-
ings in the style of * Pure Shinto.*
The deity worshipped is Izanagi.
The third ni^ht will probably best
be spent at Gunge. From Gunge
onwards, the whole way to Iwaya
and Kariya, the road leads by the
sea. Insignificant at first, the
view gradually gains in beauty.
•The path mounts, little promon-
tories stretch out into the sea,,
pine-trees extend their fantasti-
cally contorted shapes toward the
waves, to the left lies Shozushima,.
and ahead and to the r. the already
often-mentioned but ever varying
outline of the blue mountains of
Harima^ and in the faint distance
Route 50. — The Inland Sea,
857
the snow-capped Tamba range.
After the hamlet of Murotsn, the
screen of hills forming the back-
bone of Awaji itself folds back a
little from the strand, giving the
green upland glimpses of field and
valley which make the E. side of
the island so charming.
From Tsiikiie, sailing boats are
frequently to be found starting for
Akashi on the mainland, the fare
being a few sen per head in a boat
calculated to hold a dozen or twenty
people. In fine weather this is a
very pleasant way of concluding
the journey, the passage averaging
a couple of hours, and the views
being delightful. . The whole hori-
zon is alive with the white sails of
junks going up and down the
Inland Sea. Those to whom a sea
journey is pleasant only in pro-
portion to its shortness will do best
to cross to Maiko-no-hama from
Matsuo, a hamlet at the N. extre-
mity of the island, not far from
the lighthouse.
The whole expedition thus in-
volves sleeping three nights away
from Kobe. It might be shortened
and a night saved by taking the
steamer direct from Kobe to Su-
moto, and by omitting the visit to
the Naruto whirlpool; but it
would be a great pity to miss the
latter, which is a sight unique in
Japan.
I
EOUTE 50.
The Inland Sea and the Chief
Towns on or near its Shores.
1. OPENER AL information. 2.
MEANS of communication : THE
santo railway, steamers. 3.
voyage down the inland sea
by mail steamer. 4. northern
shore : himeji, okayama, fuku-
yama, onomichi, mihara, kure,
hiroshima, miyajima, iwakuni,
yamaguchi, toyoura, shimono-
seki. 5. southern shore : ma-
t8uyama, mitsu-ga-hama, dogo,
imaharu, saijo, tadotsu, maru-
game, kompira ( kotohira ),
takamatsu.
1. — General Information.
The Inland Sea is the name
given to the water space lying
between the Main Island on the
North and the islands of Shikoku ^
and Kyushu on the South. It com-
municates with the open sea by the
Naruto passage and Akashi Strait
on the East, by the Bungo Channel
between Shikoku and Kyushu, and
by the Strait of Shimonoseki at
the Western end. It is about 240
miles long from Akashi Strait to
Shimonoseki, its greatest width
opposite the Bungo Channel being
about 40 m., while it narrows to
8 m. where the province of
Bizen approaches that of Sanuki
in longitude 134°. By the Japa-
nese it is divided into five open
spaces or Nada, which, named from
East to West, are as follows:
Harima Nada, Bingo Nada, Mi-
shima Nada, lyo Nada, and Suwo
Nada. Harima Nada is divided
from Bingo Nada by an archipelago
of islands, rocks, and shoals, through
which the passage for ships is nar-
rowed in some places to a few
hundred yards. Bingo Nada is
divided from Mishima Nada, and
858
Route 50, — The Inland Sea.
the latter from lyo Nada in the
same manner, and here the channel
is even narrower, notably at one
place where there is only just
room for two ships to pass abreast.
The Inland Sea affords the most
direct route from Kobe to Naga-
saki and Shanghai. For vessels
proceeding anywhere to the west-
ward it offers a smooth water
passage, by which the un-
certain weather and stormy seas
of the outer passage may be
avoided ; and although to mariners
the intricacies of the channels may
present some disadvantages, for
the traveller the smoothness of the
water and the continuously varying
and picturesque scenery are an
unfaiUng source of pleasure and
comfort throughout its entire
length. The larger islands are
mountainous ; and although (differ-
ing in this from most parts of
Japan) they lack timber, the
varying effect of light and shade
gives colour to the background.
The smaller islands are of every
conceivable fantastic shape, some
being mere rocks, while others are
of considerable height and size.
Nearly all are inhabited by a
half-farming half-fishing popula-
tion. The shores are lined with
villages, the hillsides laid out in
fields, and the waters studded with
trading junks and fishing-boats.
Accor£ng to Japanese accounts,
the total number of islands is some
thousands, though it is a puzzle to
know how they were ever counted.
Another puzzle to the European
visitor, to whom the Inland Sea
has become a household word, is
the fact that the Japanese them-
selves have no corresponding name
in common use. The term Seio no
uchi (lit. 'within the channels")
is a mere invention of" modern
chart-makers, intended to translate
the English name. Neither have
the Japanese poets ever raved oyer
this lovely portion of their native
country. Only Suma and Akashi at
its eastern end seem to have
arrested their attention. All the
greater reason why foreigners
should do it justice.
2. — Means op Communication.
A line of railway called the San-
yo Railway is - in process of con-
struction along the northern
shore of the Inland Sea, starting
from Kobe and passing throngh
Himeji, Okayama, Onomichi, Hiro-
shima, and Iwakuni, and ending at
Shimonoseki. It is intended to
connect with the Kyushu Kailway,
which starts from Moji on the
opposite side of the straits and is
ultimately meant to lead to Naga-
saki. Up to the present (June,
1891) only the following portion of
the Sanyo line has been opened
to traffic.
Santo Railway.
Distance
from
Kobe.
Names
of
Remarks.
Stations.
KOBE.
1 m.
HyOj?o.
4i
Suma
)
8
12
16
Maiko
> See p. 281.
Akash-i
Okubo.
20
Tsuchiyama.
24i
Kakogawa.
29
Amida.
34
HIMEJI.
m
AboshL
u
Tatsuno.
47
Naba.
62
Une.
63^
Mitsuishi.
68
Yoshinaga.
71i
Wake.
79^
Seto.
84i
89
Nagaoka.
OKAYAMA.
93i
Niwase.
99
Kurasbiki
f Present
(. terminus.
^k^^ Vtf^^b ^^ 1^ A ^^^L^ ^ VVVVVVVV'SV*
Tamasbima
Expected
I to be open-
f edinAug.
1891.
J
Kamoerawa
Kasaoka
Fukuyama
140
(about)
Matsunaga
ONOMICHI
C Expected
MIHARA
\ tobeopen-
Cedinl892.
Sanyo Ilailivay, Steamer Voyage,
359.
Even when the line is completed,
it can scarcely become a favourite
route; for much of the country
through which it passes is bare
and uninteresting. The charms
of the Inland Sea can be infinitely
better appreciated from shipboard.
Those whom a general glance at
the scenery contents, or to whom
first-rate accommodation is a sine
^ud rum, will do best to take their
passage from Kobe to Nagasaki in
one of the mail steamers. The
course usually taken and the
chief points passed are described
in the following section. Per-
sons tolerant of less good accom-
modation, and desirous to do the
Inland Sea and its shores more
thoroughly, have innumerable
small coasting steamers at their
disposal. It is impossible to give a
schedule of these, as not only do
the hours of sailing and the ports
of call vary according to the cargo
offering, but the companies them-
selves frequently change. At
present (1891) the Kobe Domei
Kisen Gwaisha is the largest of
these companies, sometimes de-
spatching as many as fifteen
steamers daily. Among the ports
touched at are Takamatsu, Tadotsu,
Imaharu, Mitsu-ga-hama, Tomotsu,
Onomichi, l^akehara, Ondo, Kure,
Hiroshima, Miyajima, Iwakuni,
Yanai, Murozu, Tokuyama, Mita-
jiri, Shimonoseki, Beppu. Oita,
Saganoseki, etc. etc. The s£eamers
also call at many places outside
the limits of the Inland Sea, such
as Uwajima and Kochi in Shikoku ;
Hagi, Hamada, Esaki, and Sakai on
the Sea of Japan; Hakata and
Kagoshima in Kyiishii ; Iki, Tsu-
shima, and Fusan. The starting-
point of some of these steamers is
Osaka, but all call at Kobe. Notices
are generally only issued on the
day of sailing. Punctuality is rarely
observed, and all the arrange-
ments are so peculiarly Japanese
that only those whoiiave had some
experience of the country and its
customs are advised to embark on
a lengthy 4x)ur by this means.
3. — Voyage down the Inland Sea
BY Japan Mail Steamship Com-
pany's Steamer.
In describing the steamer route,
our remarks will be confined to the
points which are immediate to the
track.
Soon after leaving the an-
chorage at Kobe, Wada Point is
rounded, the ship is steered close
along the land for Akashi Strait,
and at 1 hourf is close off the light-
house on the 1., with the town of
Akashi on the r. After passing*
through the straits, the track edges
a lilt e to the south to clear a
dangerous shoal on the r., and
crosses the Harima Nada. The
ship is now fairly within the In-
land Sea, with the large islands of
Awaji and Shikoku on the 1. and
the first group of lesser islands
ahead. (For description of Awaji,
see Koute 49; for Shikoku, see
Eoutes 51—53.)
At 4 hrs. she enters the first of
the intricate passages. The large
island on the r. is Shozushima,
with a rocky, indented shore and
well-cultivated slopes. The course
leads within a mile of its southern,
extremity, the coast of Shikokn
being about 3 m. to the 1. From
here the ship turns a little to the
north, and soon after the castle
town of Takamatsu opens out on
the 1. at the head of a deep bay.
At 5 hrs. Okishima, with high cliffs
descending straight into 15 fathoms
of water, is passed within a stone's
throw on the left. Oki and Toyoshi-
ma on the r. both produce copper
ore, and the surface workings may be
observed in passing. From Okishi-
ma very careful piloting is necessary
t The expressions * at 1 hour,' * at 2
hours,' etc., in the description of this
voyage signify, ' when the steamer has
been I hour out of Kobe,* ' 2 hours out rf
Kobe,' etc., taking 12 knots per hour as
the average speed.
860
Boute 50, — The Inland Sea.
to carry the ship safely amongst
the numerous shoals and islets
lining both sides of the track.
At 6 hrs. the lighthouse on the
S.E. end of Nabae-shima (called
Yoshima on some of the charts)
is passed, when the castle towns
of Sakaido and Maru-game, will
be visible on the L At this point
the situation is particularly in-
teresting. The ship is completely
landlocked, and to the uninitiated
there appears to be no way be-
tween the rocks and islets with
which the sea is studded. The
ship swings round point after point,
passing villages near enough to
watch the occupation of their in-
habitants, and threatens to swamp
a fishing boat at every turn.
Through all these narrows the
tides rush with a velocity of from
4 to 6 knots, adding greatly to the
difficulty of navigation. At times
the vessel can hardly stem the rush
of water^^ and heels from side to side
as it catches her on either bow.
After Nabae-shima, Ushijima is
passed either N. or S., and at 7 hrs.
the ship will be abreast of Takami-
shima, high, with a clump of pines
hiding a temple on the summit.
The shore of Shikoku now projects
as a long promontory forming the
eastern boundary of the . Bingo
Nada. In the bight to the left
is the trefoil-shaped island of
Ashima, whose northern extremity
is passed within a stone's throw.
The glasses will give a good view
of Tadotsu, formerly the residence
of a Daimyo, bearing south. If
Ushijima is passed on the north
side, the shores of Shiyako and
Hiroshima will be very close on
the right, and a curious rock only
10 ft. above water on the 1. At 7i
hrs. the first narrows are cleared,
and the ship enters the Bingo Nada.
From this point there are two
routes leading through the archi-
pelago that separates the Bingo
Nada from the Mishima Nada, —
one to the north, passing north of |
the islands and having the shore of
the mainland of Japan on the right,
one to the southward of the islands,,
having the shore of Shikoku on
the left. The northern passag-e,.
which is by far the more interesting
of the two, is longer by 8 miles ;.
and for 3 hrs. the ship winds in
and out through very intricate
channels, which at the widest are
not niore than 2 miles across, and
m some places not a hundred yards.
The channel is entered at 8^ hours,
passing close to the south of Yoko-
shima. Then the track turns to
the north between Innoshima, a
large island 1,250 feet high on the
left, and Mukoshima on the right,,
where the channel is just 100 yards
across. It opens out a little off
Mihara, a castle-town of some im-
portance, which is seen on the-
right at about 9 hrs. Thence
the track turns to the southward,
and narrows again. At 10^ hrs.
the ship is off Osaki-shima r.,
with a small rocky islet on the 1.,
and shortly after the track joins
that of the southern route.
If the southern passage is taken,
the ship passes between two high
islands with bare precipitous sides
at 8.i hrs. Next a sms^ group of
rocky islets is passed on the 1., and
the town of Imaharu on the coast of
Shikoku comes in sight ahead.
At about 10 hrs. the track turns
sharp to the northward, between
Oshima on the r. and Shikoku on
the 1. These narrows are particu-
larly interesting, especially if the
tide happens to be running strongly
in the opposite direction. At the
narrowest part, less than 100 yards
wide, the vessel swerves from side
to side. * Hard a port ! ' and * Hard
a starboard ! ' are the continual
cries. If the vessel has not suffi-
cient speed, she may be turned right
round. Indeed, .one steaming even
10 knots has been known to be
obliged to go back and wait for a
fair tide, and large swirls have
sometimes been observed measur-
Steamer Voyage,
861
ing 6 ft. across and 10 ft. deep. After
two or three miles in a northerly
direction, the track turns to the
>vesxward. Here the ship is again
•completely landlocked;^ the moun-
tainous islands of Oshima and
Omishima on the r., Shikoku on
the 1.. and Osaki-shinia ahead
•closing the prospect "all around.
But after passing the extreme
northern point of the province of
lyo, with its white outlying rocks,
th.e view opens out, and at 11
hrs. the track by the northern
passage is j(5ined.
The course now turns southward
a^ain along the shore of Shikoku,
where the mountain ranges are
well-wooded, arid the highest
peaks tipped with snow early
in December. At 12 hrs. the
coast of Shikgku is again approach-
ed within 2 miles. A little later
the ship threads her way through
another narrow passage between
Oogoshima on the 1. and Musuki
and Nakashima on the right. Just
behind Gogoshima lies Mitsu-ga-
hama, one of the chief ports on the
Inland Sea. Musuki is passed
close enough to distinguish the
workings from which the material
for manufacturing porcelain is
obtained. Leaving Gogoshima be-
hind, another small island comes in
sight with a lighthouse, whose
light is visible 20 miles. Then the
ship is fairly in the lyo Nada, and
at 13 hrs. is nearly up to Yurishima,
a curious double island consisting
of two hills respectively 400 ft. and
200 ft. high, joined by a narrow
sand-bank. This island may be
passed on either side. Eight miles
beyond it is another steep island,
and at 14^ hrs. Yashima, 500 ft.
high, is passed very closely. At
this point the Bungo Channel opens
to the southward, and the track
turns a little to the north, passing
Uwajima at some distance and
Himeshima within a few miles.
From here the track lies through the
Suwo Nada, midway between Kyu-
shu and the mainland, and, beings
unrelieved by smaller islands, pos-
sesses no features of special in-
terest. At 18 hrs. a red buoy
marking the edge of a bank is
passed on the right, and the track
turns north for Shimonoseki. Here
the land draws together on both
sides, forming the Straits of Shimo-
noseki which yvary from 4 m.
to 1 m. in width, and are further
narrowed by numerous shoals and
sand-banks. At 19 hrs. the ship
rounds Isaki on the 1., and threads
her way through the shallows past
the town of Shimonoseki on the
right. The steamer track skirts
the flat shore, winds round the
south of Hikushima, turns to the
north-west, and then due north,
towards the island of Eokuren.
The whole channel is well-lighted
and marked ; but the strong tides
which rush through render it even
more difficult to navigate safely
than any other part of the Inland
Sea. Some of the Nippon Yusen
Kwaisha's steamers stop off Shimo-
noseki for an hour or so to land
mails, etc. Not counting this stop-
page, the ship will be off Eokuren.
and fairly through the Inland Sea
at 20 hrs.
As almost all travellers go on to
Nagasaki — indeed must do so un-
less they have special passports —
the description of the route is con-
tinued on to that port.
From Eokuren the track turns
west, close past Shiroshima ; then
gradually south. At 22 hrs. the
ship is about 1 m. off Koshime-no-
Oshima (WUson*s Island). The
coast of Kyushii now extends south-
ward on the left — bold, rugged,
and deeply indented, with nume-
rous harbours, outlying islands,
and a background of lofty moun-
tains. At 24 hrs. the desolate,
rocky islet of Eboshi-jima, with its
lighthouse, is close at hand, due
south of Tfr^hich, on the shores pf a
deep bay, lie the coal-fields o£
Earatsu, and the district where
862
Route 60. — The Inland Sea.
the celebrated Hizen porcelain is
manufactured. Eight miles away
on the r. is the large island of
Iki, with several small rocky islets
nearer in the same direction.
From Eboshi-jima the track
turns gradually to the south, pass-
ing Kagara-shima and Madara-
shima. At 28 hrs. the N.E. end of
Hirado is close to, and Doshima
1 m. on the left. Hirado is 16 m.
long, narrow and hilly, trending
N.N.E. and S.S.W. It is se-
parated from Kyiishu by a narrow
channel of a quarter of a mile,
which is in effect narrowed to
a few yards by rocks, and is called
Spex Straits.
Steamers sometimes take ' this
course if the tide and weather
are completely favourable ; but
generally they keep along the
W. shore of Hirado, and pass be-
tween it and Ikutsuki-shima by
what is known to mariners as the
Obree Channel. Nakanoshima,
an islet rising straight out of
the water off the S. W. end of
Hirado, is closely skirted, and the
course changed to S.E. at 29^ hrs.
Ho-age (Sail Bock) is 1 m. on the
left, and the whole group of the
Goto Islands (see Route 61) in the
distance on the right. Shortly
after Ho-age, and on the same side,
is seen a beacon painted red and
white, to mark a dangerous sun-
ken_ ropk. At 30 hrs. the islets
of Odate and Kodate are on the
right, and Mitoko on the left.
Off the south-east of the latter is
a small flat islet with pine-trees.
A little south again, in the main
island of Kyushu, is a remarkable
conical hill, with a clump of trees
on the summit closely resembling a
field officer's cocked hat and plume.
Next we pass Matsushima, which is
of considerable size and partly
covered with pine-trees, whence
its name. It is terraced for culti-
vation to the very summit, and has
a village half-way up its slope.
This point passed, the track takes
a sharp turn to the S. and back
to S.E. again between Ikesliima
, and Haka or Hiki-shima ; and
I when the ship is 2 m. due south
I of the latter, a good view of a
! remarkable arched rock standing^
i straight up out of the water is
obtained. From here Iwoshima is
straight ahead, with the lighthouse
just visible. To the right of the
lighthouse is Takashima, noted for
its coal-mines (see Boute 55). At
31 hrs. the ship is midway between
Iwoshima and the mainland,, and
soon after enters a cluster of islet?
off the mouth of Nagasaki harbour.
Rounding Pappenberg, the ship
turns sharp to the 1. into the
harboui*, and at 32 hrs. is generally
at anchor.
The chief distances of the run
through the Inland Sea from Kobe
to Nagasaki, as taken by the Nip-
pon Yiisen Kwaisha*s steamers, are
as follows : —
KOBE to :— Miles.
Hyogo Point 2
Akashi Straits 12
Nabae-shima 73
Ushijima 75^
Nakashima 143
Yurishima 154
Yashima '. 175
Himeshima 198
Shimonoseki 239
Rokuren , 248
Shiroshima. 257
Koshime-no-Oshima 275
Eboshi-jima 300
Obree Channel 334
Nakanoshima 346
Arched rock 371
Nagasaki 387
4. — Places op Interest on the
Northern Shore of the In-
land Sea.
Hiineji ( Inns, Inoue-ro, with
foreign restt. ; Tatsuman), capi-
tal of the province of Harima, is
a busy commercial centre, beinfy at
the junction of three highways—
the San-yodo which runs along the
Toicns on the Northem Shore.
868
northern shore of the Inland Sea
"to Shimonoseki ; a road to the
provinces of Mimasaka, Hoki, and
Xznmo ; and a third up the valley of
"tlie Ichikawa, via Ikuno to Toyooka
in the province of Taj ima. Himeji's
cliief attraction, however, is its
ancient castle, which still remains
in a state of exceptional preserva-
Idon and eminently deserves a
visit. Travellers are admitted on
presentation of their cards.
The castle, as it stands, is the outcome
of the warlike labours of several noble
families dming many ages. Founded in
tlie 14th centuiy by Akamatsu Enshin, a
retainer of the unfortunate Emperor Go-
Dai^, it soon fell into the hands of the
Afihikaga Shoguns, but was recovered in
1467 by a descendant of the Akamatsu
family. In 1677, Ota Nobunaga, then all-
powerful, gave the province to Hideyoshi,
mrho enlarged the castle and crowned it
with thirty turrets. In 1608, Ikeda Teru-
masu, to whom it had been meantime
granted in iief, raised the number of
turrets to fifty which took him nine
years to finish. From that time forward
Himeji was at peace ; and at the time of
the fall of feudalism, belonged to a Dai-
myd named Sakai with an income of
lfiO,000 koku of rice. The barracks now
nsed are of modem construction.
The chief productions of Himeji
are cotton and stamped leather
goods. At Shirakawa, a short dis-
tance from Himeji, are some plum
orchards which afi'ord a good place
for a picnic.
Okayama (Inn, *Jiyiisha), capital
of the prefecture of the same name
and of the province oi Bizen^ is
situated at some distance from its
port; Sanibanshi, no portion of this
coast showing more clearly the
rapid encroachment of the land on
the sea. Okayama may be reached
either by jinrikisha or by boat up
the river, the latter taking about
3 hrs. The castle formerly belong-
ing to the Daimyo Ikeda is still
entire, and visitors are admitted
on payment of a small fee. The
public garden here is in the quaint
native style, and is therefore more
interesting than most of those now
found in sQl Japanese towns of any
size. A good deal of cotton is
grown in the surrounding fertile
plains.
Fiikuyahia (Inn, Kameyama),
capital of the province of Bingo,
was the castle-town of a Daimyo
called Abe Ise-no-Kami. The only
sight of the place is the Shinto
temple of Abe Jinja.
OllOiiiiclli (Inns, Hamakichi,
Hirao), a bustling, prosperous place
stretching along the shore of a
long narrow strait, is noted for the
manufacture of ornamental mats,
which may best be procured at the
Byuseki Ewaisha. The shore is
lined with godowns. Behind the
town rises a lofty hill, near the
summit of which stands a Bud-
dhist temple, a branch of the greUt
shrine of Zenkoji in Shinshiij, The
climb is amply rewarded by the
view. Beyond the islands studding
the Inland Sea, lies due S. Ishi-
zuchi-yama, the highest mountain
in Shikoku. The Senjo-iwa, a big
flat rock at the N. end of the
plateau, is a favourite spot for
picnics.
Mihara (Inn, by Ayame Heisuke)
was the seat of a Daimyo called
Asano Kai-no-Eami, whose castle,
built by the Taiko Hideyoshi, still
remains though fast going to decay.
The pretty scenery of this neigh-
bourhood is counterbalanced by
the unpleasant odours. Indeed aU
this coast of the province of Bingo
is maladorous, the sandy unfertile
nature of the soil necessitating a
more than usually copious applica-
tion of manure.
Eiire (Inn, Horai), an important
station of the Japanese navy, is
romantically situated at the base
of the hills of the province of Aki.
One and a half ri distant is the
barren island of Etajima, where
stands the Imperial Naval College,
an admirably conducted institu-
tion for the education of cadets.
Hiroshima (Inn, * Kikkawa-ya ,•
there is also a foreign restaurant),
capital of the province of Aki and
seat of a prefecture, stands in the
864
ItoHte 50. — TJie Inland Sea,
delta of the Otagawa. The ap-
proach to Hiroshima by sea is noted
for its beauty. From the harbour
to the town is a distance of about
\\ ri along a fine jinrikisha road.
It is a brisk and busy place, the
most important to vim in Japan to
the west of Kobe, and resembles
Osaka in appearance owing to the
numerous canals by which it is
intersected. It is a centre for
dealers in lacquer, bronze, and most
other kinds of artistic work. The
iJastle stands in a large park at the
N. end of the town, just where the
rich alluvial plain begins to rise
towards the foot-hills of the central
mountain spine which here closely
approaches the coast. The castle,
or what now remains of it, is
small and not specially imposing,
the turrets at the gates and
corners being only two or at
the most three storeys in height.
It is now the head-quarters of a
large garrison. Permission to visit
the castle must be obtained from
the local authorities; but the Park is
open to all and affords a delightful
place of recreation to the inhabi-
tants.
Before the establishment of the Sh5-
gunate in the 12th century, Hiroshima
beloni^ed to Kiyomori, the powerful and
unscrupulous head of the Taira clan. At
the beginning of the 17 th century the
fief passed into the hands of the Asano
family, who retained it till the mediatisa-
tionof the DaimyQs in 1871, The Asanos
were often spoken of as the Princes of
OeiuhR, Geish i or Aki being the name of
the province in which Hiroshima is
situated. Their garden is one of the
most charming examples of the horticul-
tural art in Japan.
The ascent of Futdba-yama, the
hiU behind the castle, is easy
and the view from the top ex-
quisite. In the plain below lies
Hiroshima intersected by the five
arms of the Otagawa ; to the
1. is the sea; to the r. rises a
conical shaped hill called the Aki
Fuji-san, and further to the r. Hiji-
yama ; in front is the long road
running down towards the pine-
clad islet in the harbour ; beyond
all spreads the sea, glittering^
amidst rocky islands, chief of wMch
is Miyajima with its feathery
peaks ; on the dim horizdn are
the Suwo hills.
There are two ways of reaching
Miyajima from Hiroshima, — either
by boat from Kawaguchi, or by
jinrikisha along the San-yodo to
Kuba, and thence across a narrow
stretch of water by ferry-boat.
The distance by jinrikisha is 7
ri 30 cho.
Miyajima (Inn * Momiji-ya), also
called Itsukushima, is a sacred
island, and one of the San-kei, or
'Three Chief Sights' of Japan.
The island rises to an elevation of
j about 1 ,500 ft., and is very rocky
and thickly wooded. Many small
but lovely valleys trend down to
the sea, and in these, among groves
of maple trees, nestle the inns and
tea-houses for pilgrims and the
dwellings of the fishermen and
image-carvers, who, with the priests
and innkeepers, make up a popula-
tion of some three thousand. The
torii in front of the great teihple
stands in the sea ; and the temple
itself, being partly built out over
the sea on piles, appears at high
tide to float upon the surface of t^e
waters. A more magical scene can
scarcely be pictured, especially by
moonlight.
The temple is dedicated to three god-
desses, daughters of Susa-no-o, ^m
the eldest of whom, named Ichiki-
shimarHime or Itsukushima-Hime, the
alternative name of the island is fabled' to
he derived. According to tradition, the
first erection of a temple on the present
site dates from the reign of the Empress
Suiko (A.D. 59.3-628) ; but the whole early
histoiy of Miyajima was lost in a threat
fire which occurred in 1548, and nothing
certain can be learnt from other sources
regarding its fortuned before the 12th
century. At that time Kiyomori, who
held sway over central Japan, repaired it
in such style as to gain for it the reputa-
tion of the most magnificent structure on
the shores of the Inland 8ea. Several
Mikados, the Ashikaga ShOguns, and the
grcBt Daimy5s of Geisha, Chdsha, and
' other neighbouring provinces were count-
ed among the benefactors of the place
and worshippers at the goddesses'
Toxcm on live Noi'tJieni SJiore.
865
sliriiie. Here, as elsewhere, the Buddhist
priests were compelled to withdraw on
the • purificatiou ' of the natioaal Shintd
shrines in 1871 ; but fortunately the archi-
tectural beauties which they introduced
<«kre still preserved. A curious custgm
wlileli obtained during the time of their
religious sway, was the prohibition of all
<leatlis and births on the island. Invalids
in ejctremiti and women about to be de-
livered were always removed to the main-
land. Dogs are still prohibited.
Near the top of the highest hill
in the centre of the island is a
small shrine containing a sacred
fire, which has never been per-
mitted to go out since the day
"when it was first lighted by Kobb
Daishi over 1,000 years ago.
Miyajima is a charming summer
resort, the air being pure, the
temperature never very high, the
sea and river bathing excellent,
and the walks numerous. Herds
of tame deer wander about the
island, coming down to the very
inns in the village and feeding
out of the peoples' hands.
Iwaknni (Innsy Kodama, Kome-
hei) is a bustling place, formerly
the castle-town of a Daimyo called
Kikawa. Where his castle stood,
there is now a temple dedicated to
Kato Kiyomasa. Iwakuni is noted
for its manufacture of silk, paper,
cotton, mats, and mosquito-nets.
Its great stone bridge called
Kintaikyby spanning the Nishiki-
.^wa, is famed throughout West^ra
Japan. It is built in five semi-
circular arches, difficult to cross
but picturesque to look at. It is
some 150 ft. long, and has lead for
cement. Having become shaky,
it was closed to traffic in 1891.
Yama^uclli (InUy Fujimura and
European restt.), capital of the
prefecture of the same name and
of the province of Suwo, though
several miles inland, calls for
mention here as a celebrated
town not far from the Inland Sea.
It may best be reached by steamer
to Mitajiri, whence 4 ri by jin-
rikisha vi^ a steep hill called
Sabayama, which is partly tunnel-
led. The hot-springs in the neigh-
bourhood possess some local fame.
Yamagachi was an important Christian
centre daring the latter half of the 16th
century, the mission there having been
founded by St. Fimncis Xavier himself.
More latterly the noble house of Chdsho,
which had its seat here, became a very
powerful factor in Japanese poUtics.
Since the Revolution, the Chosha clan has
divided with that of Satsuma the chief
direction of public affairs. The peasantry
of the Yamaguchi prefecture furnish a
large proportion of the emigrants who
have been sent to Hawaii during the last
few years under the joint protection of
the «1apaneseand Hawaiian governments.
Toyoura, soipetimes called Chofvi,
{Inn, Yoshida-ya).
Herfe, according to ti-adition, is the
burial place of Chftai Tenno, a Mika<lo
who is said to have ruled Japan at the
end of the 2nd century of our era. His
consort, JingO KogS, had a revelation
from Heaven one day, while her husband
was playing on the lute, that there existed
to the westward a fair land, dazzling with
gold and silver— the land of Korea— which
the Japanese sovereign was divinely com-
manded to conquer and add to his
domains. But Chaai would not l>elieve
the message. * If,* said he, 'one ascend to
a high place and look westvrard, no land
is to be seen. There is only the gi*eat
sea ; your deities are lying deities.* For
this his disbelief and disobedience, he
was smitten by the gods with sudden
sickness and death, and his consort was
left to carry out the expedition.
At Toyoura itself there is little
to see ; but the. walk of nearly 2 ri to
Shimonoseki is beautiful. Across the
strait lies Tanoura, whence eighteen
foreign men-of-war poured their
shot and shell upon the Japanese
batt-eries in what is known as the
'Shimonoseki Affair.* The chief
battery of the Prince of Choshn
was planted on a little sandy spit
below the roadway on the 1., at the
vill. of Maeda.
The Shimonoseki Affair arose out of an.
attempt on the. part of the Prince of ChO-
sha, who WHS at that time a semi-inde-
pendent ruler, to close the straits leading
into the Inland Sea. Two American
ships, a French ship, and a Dutch ship
were fired on in June and July 1863, and
several men killed. Failing to obtain
satisfaction from the Shdgun's govern-
ment, the representatives of the three
powers concerned, together With the Bri-
tish representative, who deemed it es-
sential for all the Western powers to
866
Boute 50, — The Inland Sea.
make common cause in their dealings
with the Japan of those dnys, sent a com-
bined fleet to bombard Shimonoseki. This
' "was done on the 5th and 6th September,
1^63. The victors, not content with tliis
act of retahation, furthermore clsimed an
indemnity of $3,C0O,00O, the last instal-
ment of which was paid over by the
Mikado's government in 1875. No inci-
dent in the deaUngs of the West with
Japan has met with so much adverse
criticism as this Shimonoseki Affair.
Several years later, the United States
government, conscience-stricken, repaid
their portion of the indemnity— at least
they repaid, the principMl but not the
interest. The other recipients have not
shown this modicum of generosity.
Shimonoseki, als* called Aha-
ma-ga-seki or Bakan (Inns, *Fu3ino,
*Daikichi-ya, Mammatsu-ya), is a
considerable shipping centre, lying
4 m. from the W. entrance of the
strait. It consists chiefly of one
street, about 2 m. in length. The
mail steamers anchor in the bay of
Moji on the Kyushu side, where a
pier is in process of construction.
Moji (Inn, Sankai-ro), the terminus
of the Kyushu EaUway, exports a
considerable quantity of coal and
rice. The chief products of Shimo-
noseki are tobacco and cutlery.
Close to here is Dan-no-ura, famous as
the scene of the greatest naval battle in
Japanese history, when the Taira, hither-
to all-powerful, received their death-blow
from the rival clan of Minamoto headed
by the young hero Yoshitsune. The
l^ira forces were encumbered by the pre-
sence of numerous women and children,'
among whom were the widow and
daughter of Kiyomori,— the former a nun,
the latter the Kmpress-Dowager with her
child, the Emperor Autoku, then only six
years old. When his grandmother saw
that all was lost, she clasped the young
monarch in her arms, and, despite the
entreaties of her daughter, leapt into the
sea where both were drowned. This was
in A.D. 1185.
[For the chief Inland Sea ports
on the N.E. coast of Kyiishu,
see Eoute 57.J
6. — Places of Interest on the
SOUTHEEN ShO»E.
Matsnynilin (Inn, IQdo-ya), capi-
tal of the province of lyo, possess-
ing one of the largest castles in
Japan, is reached in ^ hr. by rail
from Mitsu-ga-hama, its port (Inn,.
Ishizaki). Instead of staying at
Matsuyama, which is a dull place,
the traveller may find it pleasant
to push on I ri past the castle hill
to the hot-springs of
Dogo (lnw,*Funa-ya) , a favourite
provincial spa, rendered lively by
the presence of numerous singing
girls. Besides the hot baths, there
is a rivulet to bathe in, and
on its banks a number of gay
tea-houses. Carving in wood and
bamboo is the chief industry of
this district. _ A Shinto temple
dedicated to Okuni-nushi and Su-
kiina-bikona stands at the top of a
steep flight of stairs leading up the
wooded hill which overhangs the'
spring. On the height opposite
are tea-houses and a public garden.
From this there is a fine prospect
over the wide and fertile plain of
Matsuyama ; to the N. is the
Inland Sea, S. the mountains to-
wards Uwajima, E. the Kumano-
toge on the road to Kochi.
Imnliarii or Inidbari (Inn, Naka-
hei), formerly the castle-town of a
Daimyo named Matsudaira Suruga-
no-Kami, stands at the entrance of
one of the narrowest channels in
the Inland Sea.
Saijo (Inn, 0-Sakana-ya) is the
best point on the Island Sea from
which to make the ascent of Ishi-
zuchi-yama, the highest mountain
in Shikoku.
Tadolsii (Inns, Yoshida-gumi,
Hanabishi) and
Manigaiiie (Inn and restt, Naka-
mnra-ro) are the largest ports of
the province of Sanuki. The chief
attraction in their neighbourhood
is the ancient shrine of Konipira,
or, as it has recently been re-
named, Kotohira, the most sacred
in all Shikoku, and held in special
veneration by sailors. In the ad-
jacent vill. there is an excellent
inn called Tora-ya. A miniature
railway connects these three places,
the run from Marugame to Kotohira
via Tadotsu taking only f hr. The
Toims on the Southern Shore.
867
temple^ one of the genuine founda-
tions of Eobo Daishi, stands on the
slope of Zoyama, a hill so-called
from its supposed resemblance to
an elephant's head, and is ap-
proaclied by unusually long flights
of steps. Its appearance nowa-
days is scarcely equal to its re-
putation. The most interesting
object is a bronze horse, life-size, to
"wliich. rice is offered. Pious pil-
grims gather up the scattered
grains and eat them uncooked.
This temple of Kompira i» the original
.from which countless shrines throughout
the Bmpire have bon-owecl the name, and
like it, they have all recently been trans-
ferred, from Buddhist to Shinto keeping.
The popularity of Kompira's many shrines
has been in nowise affected by this change ;
and the festival which takes place on the
10th day of each month is one of the live-
liest in the calendar.
The view from the summit of the
hill is very fine, embracing as it
does the best part of the Harima
Nada, with the cluster of islands
separating that from the Bingo
Nada.
Not far from Tadotsu is Byobu-
ga-ura, the birthplace of Kobo
Daishi.
Kompira is an agreeable excur-
sion from Kobe. One may leave
by steamer in the evening, and be
back in Kobe late the following
night, so that the trip is practicable
even for those who have only
Saturday afternoon and Sunday
at their disposal.
Tnkamatsn (Inn and restt.,
Oimatsu-en), formerly the seat of
the Daimyo Matsudaira Sanuki-no-
Kami, and capital of the province
of Sanuki, is a clean and pleasant
place.
JET
EE
^^
0
^
♦
(f>
<9
^ ii ^ o jiA- n g
^.^^
^"^B^-i •■.
i
SECTION VI.
THE ISLAND OF SHIKOKU.
(Routes f)i — 52
Route 51, — Froyn Matsuyama to KochL
871
ROUTE 61.
From Matsuyama to Kochi over
THE Mountains of Ito and Tosa.
1. OBI^SSAL BEMABKS ON THE
ISIjAKD of SHIKOKU. 2. FROM
MATSUYAMA TO KOCHI.
1. — GrENEBAL REMARKS.
The chief points of interest on
the N. shore of the Island of Shi-
koku have already been described
in the previous Route. A visit to
the N. shore, however, by no means
exhausts the capabilities of the
island from a tourist's point of
view. There are other trips, not-
ably that from Kochi to Tokushima
vi4 the valley of the Yoshino-gawa,
which will well repay his trouble,
and w^hich are treated of in the
following pages. ■
The word Shi-koku means *four pro-
vinces '—a name derived from the fact of
the island being divided into the four pro-
vinces of Awa to the E., Sanuki to the N.E.,
lyo to the N.W., and Tosa to the S. As the.
author of the Kojiki quaintly phitises it,
'this island has one body and four faces, and
each face has a name.' Some of the names
used in early times were quaint indeed,
the province of lyo being called ' Lovely
Princess' {E-hime), Sanuki bein^ 'Prince
Good Boiled Rice' (Ji-i/ori-hiko), Awa_ be-
ing 'the Princess of Great Food' {0-ge-
tm-hime), and Tosa being 'the Brave
Good Youth' {Tuke-yori-wake). The last-
named province continues to justify its
name for bravery and ability. No men
have aided more than the Tosa men to
bring about the renovation of Japan ; in
none are turbulent and democratic senti-
ments more prevalent. During the middle
ages Shikoku was ruled over by a num-
ber of great feudal houses^ of which the
most powerful were the Kono, the Hoso-
kawa, the Miyoshi, the Chosokabe, and
the Hachisuka. The island is now divided
into the four prefectures of Tokushima,
Bhime, Kochi, and Kagawa, correspond-
ing respectively to the old provinces of
Awa, lyo, Tosa, and Sanuki.
The climate of Shikoku is excep-
tionally mild, especially in the S.
portion, which is influenced by
the Kuroshio, or Japanese Gulf-
Stream. Tosa is the only province
in Japan where two crops of rice
are produced yearly. The greater
part of the island is occupied by
mountain ridges of from 3,000 ft. to
4,000 ft. in height, with few salient
peaks, the loftiest being Ishi-
zuchi-yama in lyo, estimated by
Dr. Eiein at 1,400 metres (about
4,666 ft.). * In Sanuki,' says Dr.
Rein, * the plain of Takamatsu is
fringed towards the sea by several
volcanic cones, quite distinct from
the schist mountains in the in-
terior. They include no important
heights, but are a very striking
feature in the landscape.' The
mountains of Shikoku are well-
watered, and crowned by magni-
ficent forests. 'In the higher
regions/ says the authority jdst
quoted, * the eye is delighted by a
vigorous growth of deciduous trees,
where horse-chestunts and magno-
lias are variously intermingled
with beeches, oaks, maples, ashes,
and alders. But laurel-leaved oaks,
camellias, and other evergreen trees
venture much nearer to them and
higher than in Hondo {the main
island of Japan), while still lower
camphor-trees and other cinnamon-
species, the wild star-anise, Nan-
dina, and many other plants which
we only find in the main island in
a state of cultivation, take part in
the composition of the evergreen
forests.'
Away from the big towns on the
coast, the accommodation in Shi-
koku is poor and the roads rough ;
often, indeed, they are rendered
impassable by floods.
2. — Matsuyama (Dogo) to Kocnr
OVER THE Mountains op Iyo
AND Tosa.
Itinerary.
MATSUYAMA to:— JJi. Cho. M.
Kumama^hi 7 — 17
Higashigawa 3 27 9i
Mochii 4 4 10
Ikegawa 3 — 7^-
Kawaguchi 3 — 7i
Ino(byboat) ...12 — 29^
KOCHI 1 18 3f
Total 34 13 83f
872
Boute 62. — From Kochi to Tokushima
These distances, from Mochii
onwards, are only approximate.
All the first part of this route is
rough, lying as it does over a
succession of mountain passes;
but the views are correspondingly
beautiful, especially on the Tosa
side where nature assumes a more
smiling aspect. In- some of the
clefts and gullies on the more
rugged lyo side, patches of snow
lie all the year round. Poor ac-
commodation is to be found at each
village. The journey takes from 2^
to 3 days, when no interruptions
occur from flooded streams or patlis
carried away. From Kawaguchi
to Ino, is a delightful 7 hrs,
journey by boat down the Miyodo-
gawa, which is romantically beauti-
ful and has several small rapids.
At Ino live the principal paper-
dealers of Kochi, and shortly
beyond it the old castle of Kochi
comes into view.
KOchi {Inn, *Emmei-ken with
European restt.), capital of the
prefecture of the same name,
is a go-ahead place with many
public buildings in foreign style.
Its most striking feature, the
castle, dating from the 16th cen-
tury and the abode of the princes
of Tosa until the revolution of
1S68, was converted some yeard ago
into a public library, and the
grounds into a park. Most of the
government buildings stand at the
foot of the castle hill, as does also a
large square-built church erected
by the native Christians. Kochi
is noted for its coral. The bay of
Kochi is a double one ; the inten-
tion is to deepen the outer part
so as to admit large steamers. The
Buddhist temple of Chikunnji, a
little over 1 m. from Kochi by
jinrikisha, is worth a visit. It
stands near the summit of a hill
called Godai-san, several hundred
steps leading up to the temple
gate. At the foot of the same hUl
may be seen a Shinto shrine and
monument erected to the memory
of the men of Kochi who fell on
the loyal side in the Satsuma.
rebellion.
The begt walk (2 hrs.) from
Kochi is to the top of Washio-yama,
a hill 1,500 ft. high affording a
beautiful view. On the other side
of the Kagami-gawa, is the burial
place of the Princes of Tosa.
Three m. to the N.E. of Kochi
is the waterfall of Takinwto, ac-
cessible by jinrikisha.
Kochi is usually approached, not
by this mountain road, but by
steamer from Kobe. The steamers
are fairly good, and the passage
takes 16 hrs.
KOUTE 62.
From Kochi to Tokushima down
THE EaPIDS of the YoSHINO-
GAWA.
Itinerary,
KOCHI to :— Ri. Cho. Itf.
Ryoseki 3 33 9^
Todeno 3 10 8
Sugimura 2 31 7
Yuiiotani 2 34 7i
Okubo 2 18 6
Kawaguchi 5 18 13^
Ikeda 3 18 8i
[Hashikura 1 — 2i]
Wakimachi 11. 18 28
Yawata 2 18 6
TOKUSHIMA... 7 — 17
Total 46 8 mh
This is probably the most de-
lightful trip in Shikoku, the scenery
on the Yoshino-gawa, the largest
river in the island, being wondrous-
by the Valley of tJie Yoshino-gawa.
873
ly beautiful. It takes 4 days under
favourable circumstances, includ-
ingr a detour to the monastery of
Hasliikara.
Lieaving Kochi, we wend up hill
and reach
Jlyiiseki (Inn, by Maeda), a
poor liamlet. Crossing the KcJku-
bu-g-awa, we come to the Oita-toge.
After running some distance along
the ridges, the path descends over
the N. face of the range, and
leads into the basin of the Yoshino-
gsLwsb, which is crossed before reach-
ing Todeno. Up to this point it
may be found convenient to ride.
The first night will probably be
best spent at
YniKitaini (Inn, Kome-y a), whence
onwards, for 2 days* journey, the
scenery of the river becomes
entrancing, the stream running
often through wild gorges, at
other times breaking into rapids or
falling in cascades, while above and
around there is a grand luxuriance
of vegetation. At Yunotani it-
self there is a deep valley to the
1., beyond which rises a huge moun-
tain mass, washed by streams utili-
sed for irrigation in a manner won-
derful to behold. These streams are
carried along the face of the upper
slopes, whence they percolate on to
the terraces below. From Yuno-
tani onwards, the journey is per-
formed partly by boat and partly
on foot. The state of the river
must help to determine the travel-
ler's movements, stages which can
be done by boat when the river is
at its normal height, having to be
performed on foot when it is too
full or not full enough. In flood-
time the water has been known to
rise 30 ft. above its ordinary level.
The path is a series of ascents and
descents of the most rugged
character, sometimes by the side
of the river, sometimes hundreds
of feet above it. After leaving
Okubo, the most picturesque
portion of the whole valley is
reached. There are rapids and
cascades innumerable. At the
Sakaigawa, the traveller leaves the
province of Tosa and passes into
that of Awa. The second night's
halt may be made, according to
circumstances of time and weather,
at Kuroishi, where there are several
tidy inns, or at
Ksnva&rnehi ( Inn, Kano-ya ).
Should time permit, one might
even go as far as Ikedn, where the
river is crossed, and push on to
Hashiknra. The monastery for
which this placfe is celebrated
stands on a steep ,hill. The inns
are situated half-way up, and here
pilgrims usually stay. Those
curious. to partake of Buddhist
vegetarian fare in splendid recep-
tion rooms, should endeavour to
obtain letters of introduction to
the abbot. Without these, visitors
will only be shown over the build-
ings. The temple belongs to the
Shingon sect.
[From Hashikura a path I.
diverges to Kawanoe, situated
on a big bight of the Inland
Sea, called the Bingo Nada, 1
day's journey.]
After Ikeda the country becomes
comparatively, open, but the cur-
rent of the river is still swift and
strong. It is possible to reach
Tokushima from Ikeda in 1 day by
boat. When the roads are in good
condition, jinrikishas can be taken.
By the time
Wakiiiiachi (Inn, Tango-ya) is
reached, the valley has become
quite broad. The current begins
to grow sluggish at
Yawata, from which place, if not
before, it is advisable to exchange
the boat for jinrikishas. There is
an apparently endless succession
of villages before arriving at the
journey's end.
Tokushima {Inns, *Hiragame-ro,
Shima-gen, with European restau-
rant), the largest and finest town
in Shikoku and capital of the
prefecture of the same name, is
874
Route 52. — From Kochi to Tokushima,
situated near the N.E. comer of
that island in the province of Awa,
not far from the celebrated whirl-
pool of Namto in the channel
dividing Shikoku from Awaji, de-
scribed in Boute 49. Its harbour,
Furokawa, is 1 r£ off. The grounds
of the castle of the former Daimyo
Hachisuka, are now converted into
a public garden. The castle itself
has passed into the hands of the
military department, but is virtually
dismantled. The chief temples are
those of Kompira, Inabe, and Ka-
suga. Before visiting these, it is
well to climb the heights behind
them, to get a bird's eye view of the
town, of the valley of the Yoshi-
no-gawa, and of the.island of Awaji.
The coast of Kishu is visible in
the hazy distance.
The women of Tokushima are
noted for their beauty. Indeed, the
whole province of Awa partakes in
this characteristic, and the dress
even of the peasant girls is as neat
and tasteful as their features are
attractive.
The hill called Semi-yama is the
spot from which Yoshitsune re-
viewed his forces before the terrific
encounter at Yashima.
An enjoyable little trip can be
made from Tokushima to NaJca-
isu-mine, some 7^ ri to the south-
ward. If will be found most con-
venient to pass the night at the
vill. of Tomioka (InUy Tosa-ya),
6 ri 6 cho from Tokushima. There
are two roads thither — one follow-
ing the coast, the other, which
is less picturesque, lying back a
little among the hills. The coast
road is rendered striking by its
rocky cliffs and long rows of grace-
ful pine-trees. From Tomioka, a
foot-path leads for about 1 ri
through the rice-fields, and cross-
ing Kaji-ga-mine, reaches the base
of Nakatsu-mine ; whence it is a
stiffish climb of 10 cho to the small
temple on the summit. The view
here spread out before the beholder
is deemed the prettiest in the pro-
vince. Especially delightful is the
prospect southwards of the island-
strewn gulf which, under the
names of Kotajima-minato and
Tachibana-ura, curves inland for
5 or 6 m., while around it rise
wooded heights, with rice-land
and hamlets in the hollows, and
salt-fields below.
Another excursion which may
be made from Tokushima is to the
Whirlpool of "Namto via Okazajd,
4 ri 21 cho, whence boat is taken
to the island of Ogeyama along
whose sandy beach the whirlpool
rushes. It is only possible to cross
over to Awaji during the 15 min. of
the change from ebb to flood-tide.
For further details of this cele-
brated part of the coast, see p. 355.
Route 53, — Outline Trips in Shikokii.
875
KOUTE 53.
OUTI^INE OF OTHER TeIPS IN
SHIKOKU.f
1. :FR03(I IMAHABU to SAIJO, BE88HI,
ANI> THE TOSHINO-GAWA VALLEY.
:2. FSOM MATSUYAMA TO NAGA-
HAMA^ OZU, AND UWAJIMA ON
THE WEST COAST.
1 . An alternative way of reaching
the valley of the Yoshino-gawa is
to land at Imaharu on the Inland
jSea, and then proceed to Saijo (InUy
O-Sakana-ya) on the same coast,
whence the ascent of Ishizuchi-
yama, the highest mountain in Shi-
koku, can be made. From SaijO
to the celebi*ated copper mines of
Besshi, the road is fine and affords
■delightful views.
These mines, situated in the mountains
•of the S.W. part of the district of Uma-
«5ri in the province of lyo, have been
worked for over flOO years, and for the
last two centuries have belonged to the
Sumitomo family, whose present repre-
sentative, Mr. Sumitomo Kichizaemon,
ift said to be the second richest man in
Japan«
Dr. Naumann proposes proceeding
thence as follows: — *From Besshi
down the Besshigawa valley to
Kawaguchij fine scenery in the
lower part, where the rocky gorge
at Aikawa-bashi, not far from the
confluence with the Yoshino-gawa,
deserves special attention. At
Kawaguchi the Yoshino-gawa is
joined. Proceed up the valley of
this river as far as Okubo. This
part is one of the most beautiful
in the whole of Shikoku. Then to
Oedamura-Sugeoi over the moun-
tains of Akaboshi, to Koyae-daira-
mura (from here Tsurugi-yama
•could be visited), Eawai-toge, Ju-
t These suggestions are mostly taken
from a pamphlet by Dr. E. Naumann.
ryo-mura, Yorii, Menoki-toge, Mi-
tani-mura, Yokose (from which
place Tokushima is within easy
reach), cross over to Nakagori by
the Tsurugoe, then up the beauti-
ful valley of the Nakagawa as far
as Kaikawa. From here the old
highway to Kochi can be followed,
or a rough route across the moun-
tains to the southern coast may bo
taken. The latter is as follows, —
climb Sugino-toge, follow the ridge
down again to the vaUey to Kai-
nose. Here the traveller could
proceed by boat to reach the
coast. From Kainose up the valley
W.S.W., where the river has to be
crossed a good many times (beauti-
ful forests of cryptomeria). to Ogo-
ya, up the valley side and again
along the ridge. Banjo (old watch-
house), down to Yamoso-mura, then
to Tanno from where the coast can
be followed to Kochi. From Kai-
kawa to Tanno the road is very
rough and mountainous, but the
traveller will enjoy it very much.
2. A pleasant trip on the W.
coast of the island is from Matsn-
yama by steamer to Nagahama;
thence up J;he valley of the Hiji-
kawa to Ozu (Inn, Abura-ya), a
neat town situated in a plain sur-
rounded by high hills and owning
an ancient castle ; thence to
Uwi^iuia {Inn, Imora).
This charming, old-fashioned place was
the seat of a branch of the Date family, re-
markable alike for its talents and its longe-
vity. The grandfather of the present
Marquis, who died in 18{K), attained to
the extraordinary age of 102.
The chief productions of Uwa-
jima are paper and iwashi (sar-
dines). An ancient custom forbids
the catching of whales on this
part of the coast, because they are
supposed to perform the useful
service of dnving the sardines
towards the land. So high is the
esteem in which the sardines of
Uwajima are held, that in feudal
days a special boat laden with them
876
Route 63. — Outline Trips in Shikoku.
was sent yearly a* an offering to
the Shogun at Yedo.
The favourite excursion from
ITwajima is to the waterfall of
Nametoko, about 2 ri distant. Uwa-
jima communicates with Kochi
both along the coast and over the
mountains, as well as by sea.
There is also steam communica-
tion with Kobe, touching at several
ports on the way.
Tourists who arrive at Kobe
from Nagasaki or Shanghai, with
the intention of proceeding by-
rail to Yokohama, but who are
compelled to wait for their For-
eign . Office passports from To-
kyo, may find that two or three
days can be agreeably spent in a
cruise through the Awaji Straits
and along the northern coast of
Shikoku. Steam-launches may oc-
casionally be hired for this purpose.
There are several tiny artificial
harbours on these shores, with
atti-active backgrounds. Good an-
chorage can Jilways be found.
r"
;
SECTION VII.
THE ISLAND OF KYUSHU
Routes f)4 — 61.
I '
/S^^
BoiUe 54, — Nagasaki and Neighbourhood,
879
ROUTE 54.
IN'agasaki and Neighboxtbhood.
1. na'gasaki. 2. walks in the
neighboxtbhood.
Hotels. . — (Foreign) Belle Vue
Hlotel, Cook's Hotel, both in the
^Foreign Settlement.
Japanese Inns. — Ueno-ya, in
DAanzai-machi; Midori-ya, in Ima-
machi.
Bestaurants. — (European style)
Fnku-ya, in Koshima ; Seiyo-tei, in
^ishi Hamano-machi ; Gwaikokn-
t;ei, in Hokaura-machi.
Restaurants. — (Japanese style)
!Fuji-tei, in Ima-machi j Tamagawa,
in Kaxniya-machi ; Koyo-tei, in
£^ami Chikugo-machi.
Consulates. — On the Bund.
Passports for the hot-springs of
TJreshino and Takeo, Arita and
Imari, Sasebo, the new arsenal,
and back to Nagasaki vid Sonogi,
Isahaya, and the hot-springs of
Onsen (Uzen) in the Shimabara
peninsula, can be obtained through
the Consulates. Eegarding gene-
ral passports for the interior of the
country, see p. 3.
CustomrHouse and Post and Tele-
graph Office. — On the Bund.
Clubs. — The Nagasaki Club, Bowl-
ing'Club:
Banking Agencies. — Hongkong
and Shanghai Bank ( Messrs
Browne & Co. ) ; New Oriental
Bank ( Messrs Holme, Binger &
Co.); Chartered Mercantile Bank.
Churches. — English Church, Me-
thodist Episcopal Church, Re-
formed Church of America, Boman
Catholic Church.
Newspaper. — * Rising Sun and
Nagasaki Express,' published
weekly.
Public Hall.— In the Foreign
Settlement, x
TAeaires. ^Maizuru-za, in Shin-
dftiku-machi ; Enoki-za, in Eno-
H za-machi.
Steam Communication. — Japan
MaU Steamship Co. (Nippon Yu-
sen^ Kwaisha); Peninsular and
Oriental (Holme, Einger and Co.) ;
Norddeutscher Lloyd (H. Iwersen).
Local Steam Communication. —
From Nagasaki to Osaka vi& the
Inland Sea, calling at Hakata,
Shimonoseki, Tadotsu, and Kobe,
daily. To Misumi and Hyakkwan
for Kumamoto, also daily. To.
Sasebo every two or three days
To the Goto Islands, Hirado, Iki»
and Tsushima, weekly. To Kago-
shima twice weekly. Shipping
Agents : Tsuru-ya, Maru-ya, in Ye-
do-machi.
SUk Stores. — Fujise, Shimase, in
FTigashi-Hamano-machi.
Porcelain Stores. — Koransha, in
Deshima.
Tortoise-Shell Stores. — Ezaki, in
Uono-machi; Sakata, in Kago-
machi.
Embroidery. — Imamura,' in Funa-
daikurmaclii; Hakusui, in Kago-
machi.
Photographers. — ^Ueno, in Shin-
daiku-machi; Kiyokawa, in Moto-
Furukawa-machi ; Setsu, in Shin-
machi.
Photograph Shop. — Tamemasa, in
Funadaiku-machi.
Curio Stores. — ^Mess and Co., in
the Foreign Settlement; Hondaya,
Kyoritsusha, Sato, in Kago-machi ;
Toraya, in Megasaki-machi ; Ni-
shida, in Funa-daiku-machi.
_ Bazaars. — In Moto-shikkui-machi,
Ohato, and Higai^-Hamano-machi.
History and Topography. — Nagasaki de-
rives its name from Nagasaki Kotard, to
■whom this district, then called Fuka«-no-
uTft, was given as a. fief by Yoritomoat
the end of the 12th centur^r. It was a
place of no importance until the 16th
century, when the native Christians
migrated thither in considerable numbers,
and it became one of the chief sites of
the Portuguese trade. After the final ex-
pulsion of the Portuguese and Spaniards
in 1637, only the Dutch and Chinese were
permitted to carry on a limited trade here,
until the opening of the country to foreign
intercourse in 1839.
The native town stretches for about two
miles to the N. of the Settlement, in which
direction is the road leading to Shimono-
seki. From the N.W. jquarter a road
leads to Tokitsu on the Omura Gulf. A
880
Bovie 54, — Nagasaki and NeigJiboiirhood,
l^ood rood has also been constructed to
Mogi on the Shimabara Gulf, the only
other outlets by land being rough paths over
the hills. On the 8.W. side of the native
town is Deshima, the site of the old Dutch
settlement.
The present Foreign Settlement occupies
the flat land on the B. side of the harbour,
and has a water frontage of from 700 yds. to
800 yds. On the picturesque slopes of the
hills behind the Settlement, are the private
residences of most of the merchants. On
the opposite side of the harbour are the
factory works of Akanoura and the dock
of Tategami, which, together with the
patent slip at Kosuge on the E. side of
the harbour, belong to the Mitsubishi
Company.
The harbour, one of the prettiest in the
world, is a narrow inlet about 3 m. in
length, indented with numerous bays and
surrounded by wooded hills. It is tho-
roughly sheltered, and affords anchorage
for ships of all classes. The principal
approach is from the N.W., between a
number of islands, those conspicuous to
the S. being IwDshima with its light-
house, Okishima apparently joined to
Iwoshima but separated from it by a
narrow boat passage; K5yaki-jima and
Kage-no-shima, on which last also stands
a lighthouse. On the N. side of the chan-
nel are Kami-no-shima, the site of an old
grn battery, and Takaboko (Pappenberg),
from the S.W. cliffs of which, less than
three centuries ago, thousands of native
Christians are said to have been precipi-
tated because they refused to trample on
the cross. This island and Nezumi-shima
to the N.E. are favourite resorts for pic-
nics; The entrance of the harbour does not
exceed ^ m. in width.
Nagasaki is noted for a kind of
jelly (kin-gyokur-to) made from sea-
weed, and for the dried roe of the
salmon-trout (Jcarasumi) .
Temples. — The^rincipal Shinto
temple is that of 0-Suwa, known
to foreigners as the ' Bronze Horse
Temple/ from a votive offering of
a bronze horse which stands in the
courtyard. From the garden attach-
ed to this temple a fine view of
the city is obtained ; a large house
has here been built for the enter-
tainment of distinguished visitors.
The Buddhist temples of Nagasaki
possess little interest.
Festivals. — Nagasaki has always
been noted for the mac^ificence of
of its religious festivals, three of
which are stUl observed with all
the pomp of former days.
1. The 8uwa no Matsuri (cojamon-
ly called Kunichi), held on. the 7th.,
8th, and 9th October, but liable to
alteration, is the grandest of all the
Nagasaki festivals. The old Dutch
writers never tired of describing
this festival, and their accormt-s
agree in almost every detail -with
the spectacle as witnessed at the
present day.
* This fete,* write our authors, * is of
some days ' duration, and begins with.
solemn rites in the temple dedicated to
Suwa. Flags and lanterns are exhibited,
on all parts of the temple, and all the
worshippers wear goi^eous ceremonial
robes. The public rites consist in placing^
the great image of the god, together with
the treasure of the temple, in a magnifi-
cently gilded and lacquered shrine, which.
is then borne in procession through the
streets, closely followed by the chief
priests and a body of picked horsemen,
the latter being deputed by the Governor
to honour the ceremony. Shrine and
treasure are finally deposited in a straw^
hut, especially bmlt for the (Xicasion.
Here they remain on view for some time,
the hut being open in front, though par-
tially enclosed by painted screens; and
with this conclude the prescribed rehgions
rites. Sports, games of skill, and thea-
trical representations follow ; great plat-
forms are erected in different parts of the
town, and on these actors and singers of
renown go through all manner of perfor-
mances. The expense of all this is de-
frayed each year by different streets and
wards, and there is the keenest spirit of
rivalry among them, both with regard to
the costliness and splendour of the de-
corations and processions. Each district
contributing towards the festival sends
forth a train of its own, and evexy street
contributes a certain number of perfor-
mers.'— Fischer, who was present on one
of these occasions, gives the following
account of what he saw : * First goes an
immense, shapeless mass of linen, cairied
on a bamboo by a stalwart man, of whom
nothing can be seen but his feet. ' Mighty
is the load he bears, for the cloth is full
twelve ells in length and embroidered
throughout, forming one huge canopy.
Then come banners and embroidered
ornaments, covered with skilful needle-
work representing some renowned man or
celebrated woman, a hill covered with
snow, the instruments of variqus trades,
or scenes from ancient Japanese histoiy.
Next follow musicians playing upon
drums, cymbals, and flutes, strangely
attired, and accompanied by a number of
servHuts. These are led or headed by the
ottona, the chief municipal officer. Then
appears a long train of children, repra>
senting some expedition of one of their
Festivals, Walks in the Neighbourhood,
881
iJcado9, or clemi-gods. T\ii8 part of the
sliow is most admirable ; clad and armed
like the warriors of former times the
leaders march gravely along, followed by
•fixe representatives of an Imperial Court,
xufile and female, dit^playing the greatest
pomp and luxury, and surpassing every
conception of dainty beauty. Each of
tibese trains is attended by a number of
palanquins, which are intended for any
of the children who may become fatigued.
.Ajfter these come companies of actors ;
every now and then high benches of equal
size are ranged along the road, and on
"tliese the actors perform with great spirit
cuad emphatic gesticulations. Their ac-
talons are accompanied by the music of
flutes and gyamsen [ahamigen'}. When this
is over, a crowd or miscellaneous musi-
cians, palanquins, servantB, and the rela-
"tives of the children follow, and this
doses one train.'
Dancing by the singing girls of
^he city takes place early on the
morning of the 7th in front of the
temple of Suwa, and intending
spectators arrive there as early as
4 o'clock in the morning in order
to secure places from which to
"witness the* sight.
2. The Bon Matsuri, or * Festival of
the Dead,' called by foreigners the
' Feast of Lanterns/ is celebrated
from the 13th to the 16th of
August, when the graveyards are
lit up with lanterns, and the rela-
tives of the dead resort thither to
perform their devotions. The hills
around the city being covered with
graveyards, the spectacle is most
impressive. About midnight on
the third night, a number of good-
sized straw boats, furnished with
lighted lanterns and laden with
offerings of various kinds — cuciun-
bers, egg-plants, etc. — are launched
from Ohato near the head of the
harbour, and the spirits of the de-
parted are supposed to return
therein to their abode. But as
danger to shipping is feared by
the authorities from the hundreds
of lights floating over the harliour,
men are placed in the water to
break up the boats as soon as they
are launched, which somewhat
mars the effect nowadays.
3. The Gion no Matsuri is a fair
which lasts for three days. It takes
place on the 14th, 15th, and 16th
of the 6th moon, old calendar.
2. — Walks in the Neighbour-.
HOOD.
1. The Dockyard and Engine
Works. Permission to visit the
above, one of the largest engineer-
ing and ship-building establish-
ments in the Far East, can.be ob-
tained from the manager of the
works at Akanoipa. The Engine
Works are situated about half-way
up the harbour, directly opposite the
Foreign Settlement. They were
originally built about forty years
^^o by the Prince of Hizen under
the superintendence of Dutch en-
gineers, and were afterwards
handed over to the Shogun's Go-
vernment in exchange for a steam-
er. After the revolution of 1868
the works passed into the hands
of the Imperial Government, from
whom they were purchased by the
Mitsubishi Company in June,
1884. They have been greatly
increased, and the works now cover
about 6i acres of ground. The
Tategami Dock is situated in a deep
recess about i m. below the Engine
Works.
2» The Ceniotery, where lie
buried the soldiers who died in
Nagasaki from wounds received in
the Forniosan Expedition of 1874
and in the Satsunia Rebellion. A
service called Shokonsha is held
yearly in their honour. The ceme-
teiT^ is situated on a hill some 10
min. walk from the Settlement, and
commands a very pretty view of
the town and harbour.
3. Eompira-yamn. This conical ,
hill, rising beyond the N. end of
the native town, is a favourite
resort of Japanese holiday-makers,
and is easily reached by a path to
the 1. of the Suwa temple in a
little over 1 hr. Here every year,
on the 10th day of the 3rd moon,
old style, is held a highly pictur-
882
Route 54. — Nagasaki and Neighbourhood.
esque contest between kite-fliers,
young and old, whose object is to
cut down each other's kites with
strings coated over with ground
glass.
4. InasA-yaina (1,130 ft.) is com-
monly known as Eussian hill, be-
cause the village of Inasa at the
foot is used as a sanitarium for
the sick landed from E>ussian men-
of-war. It is worth ascending on
account of the fine view seaward
which the sumijiit affords. The
ascent is made either from the viU.
of Inasa, or by a path just behind
the Engine Works at Akanoura;
but both paths are somewhat diffi-
cult to find without a guide.
6. YeniiS Hill, ^ hr. from the
Settlement, is so called by the
foreign residents from the Ameri-
can astronomers having select-
ed it in 1874 for observing the
Transit of Venus. It rises close
behind the S. end. of the Settle-
ment, and is, for the most part, a
long bald ridge commanding a glo-
rious view of the town and harbour
and of the surrounding mountains.
Of distant mountains seen from
the top, the most prominent are :
E., Onsen-ga-take on the pro-
montory of Shimabara ; and N.E.,
Taradake in Hizen. The nearer
summits include Inasa-yama and
the rocky peak of Iwaya-dake on
the opposite side of the harbour ;
next Kompira-yama, rising beyond
the town, to whose r. in succession
are seen the triple summits of
Shichimen-zan (commonly known
as *the Champion'); Hoka-zan, re-
cognised by its round top; and
Hiko-san, distinguished by a fringe
of trees crowning its summit and
extending partly down its W. slope.
Towards the S. is the graceful
sharp cone of Saruta-yama, to
whose r. extends a long range,
the highest point of which is
Kawara-yam£^ Looking seawards,
the eye sweeps over a succession of
beautiful islets, while the horizon
to the W. is bounded by the blu&
outline of the Groto group. To the
N. . lies the Bay of Omura, and E.
a glimpse is caught of the Shima-
bara Gulf. By following the path
along the ridge, other paths will be
met with leading down the valleys
which trend towards the ^wn.
6. Himi-toge, an enjoyable walk
there and back of about 3 lirs.,
is recommended to visitors pressed
for time. The return may be made
by the old path which descends
steeply from the Nagasaki end of
the cutting through the summit of
the pass, and lower down leads by
the water-works.
7. Mogi (water communication
with places heyoTid). A pretty ajid
pleasant walk there and back of
3 hrs. Jinrikishas are practicable
the whole way (2 ri). The view of
the Shimabara GuH from a point
j list below the deep cutting through
the top of the hiU on the Mogi
side, is very fine. Mogi itself is not
visible until a turn in the road to
the 1., at the bottom of the valley,,
reveals its position about i m.
distant. It is a dirty village but
should be traversed, and the walk
continued round the bay to the r.
to a small temple on a projecting
cliff, with fine sea view. The tea-
house kept by Blatsutaro has a pro-
menade overlooking the bay, and
provides European food.
Small steamers leave Mogi daily
in summer for Obama (3^ hrs.),
Kyodomari, and Kuchinotsu on
the Shimabara peninsula, and for
Tomioka in the island of Amakusa.
The sailings of these steamers
are not to depended on; but enquiry
at Messrs. Powers' store on the
Bund, Nagasaki, will prevent dis-
appointment. When these steamers
are not available for Kuchinotsu,
either passenger junks or ordinary
open boats can always be obtained.
The distance across is 13 ri, and
with a fair strong wind the passage
can be made in 8 hrs. Boats can
Sartita-yama, ToJdtsu, Itvaya-dake,
883
also be taken to Obama ; but the
distance is some 3 ri longer than
fcom Aba, the usual starting-point,
(see p. 385). A pleasant way of
returning from Mogi to Nagasaki,
is to go by boat to Aba; time
about 2 hrs., but depending on the
"wrind ; thence on foot or by jinriki-
sha over the Himi-toge. There is
Sklso a path from Mogi to Aba,
'which follows the deeply indented
coast line and passes through seve-
ral hamlets. It is picturesque, but
long and fatiguing.
8. Sariita-ynma (1,418 ft.), gene-
rally known to the foreign resi-
dents as ' the Virgin,' is a promi-
nent sharp cone near the 1. of the
high ridge which traverses the
peninsula about 4 m. to the S. of the
town. of Nagasaki. The walk there
and back takes about 5 hrs. and is
the prettiest in the neighbourhood.
The exquisite view from the peak
is somewhat similar to that ob-
tained from Venus Hill, but on a
more extended scale. The walk
may be varied by a descent on the
aide facing the vill. of Mogi and
returning by the Mogi road.
9. Urakaini and Tokitsn (water
communication with places beyond).
This is a pleasant walk or ride of
8 ri along the only level road in
the immediate vicinity of Naga-
saki. The road skirts the shore at
the head of the harbour, leading
up a pretty valley and past Ura-
kami, a village which, like most of
the hamlets in this valley, is in-
habited by Eoman Catholics. In-
deed, Christianity seoms to have
never been entirely eradicated
here, notwithstanding the ruthless
persecution of the faith in the
first half of the I7th century. At
the foot of a deep cutting in the
hill before Tokitsu is reached,
stands 1. an overhanging rock
called Sahor-kumkarashi-iwat ' the
rock where the mackerel were
allowed to rot.'
It is related that a fisherman on his
way from Tokitsu with mackerel {taba) to
sell, was startled at the sight of this rock,
which looked as if it were just on the
point of toppling over. So intense was-
his terror that he forgot everything
else. The rock did not come down, but
the fish went bad, whence the name.
The little village of
Tokitsu (Inn, Arita-ya) stands
on the shore of _a picturesque inlet
of the Gulf of Omura ; but except
for the beauty of the surrounding
scenery, and for the pleasant ex-
cursions which may be made by
boat along the shores of the Gulf,
it offers no attractions. In return-
ing, the road via the hamlet of
Nagayo, also on the shores of the
Gulf, may be t«aken without adding
much to the journey*. Those de-
siring refreshment or rest will
find the tea-house at the XJrakami
baths the best place for the pur-
pose. A stone pillar indicating
the way, will be seen on the r.
of the road about 2 m. from
Tokitsu.
Small steamers leave Tokitsu
twice a ^ay, about 9 a.m. and 2
P.M. for Omura 5 H, and for Sonogi
8 ri, also going on to Kawatana, 3 ri
further. A second line runs at the
same hours to Haiki, 7 ri. Between
Haiki and Kawatana, 3^- ri, is a
fairly good jinrikisha road, and a
round trip can be made if desired.
The views on the Omura Gulf
are very beautiful in fine weather.
Saseho, the new arsenal, is 3 ri
distant from Haiki.
10. 1 waya-dake. This walk is the
same as the previous one as far as
the stone torii which stands on the
1. of the road just beyond the ham-
let of Nameshi. The path under
the torii leads through the fi&lds
and thence up the hill — a walk
of l.i m. — to a small shrine.
From this point, a steep zigzag
path ascends through a thick
wood to the summit. No view is
to be had until the top is reached,
where the whole of the sea face
of the hUl is found to be clear
:d84
Boute 55. — Excursions front Xagasuki.
of wood. Excellent views are then
obtained of the Omura Gulf and of
the sea towards Takashima. Time,
Shrs.
11. HolLJi-zaii. This hill is
reached by following the old road
to the Himi-toge as far as the
water-works, and then taking the
path up the valley to the 1. until
the shoulder of the hill is gained.
Thence the path r. leads to the top.
Time, 2k hrs. The view from the
summit is one of the best in the
neighbourhood. The iniins of the
beacon form a slight shelter. Here
the first fire used to be lighted, to
speed on to Yedo news of the
arrival of foreign ships. North is
the Omura gulf; E. the Shima-
bara guK and Fugen-dake; S.
the open sea studded with islands.
Descending to the shoulder, take
the path to the r. along the ridge,
thence through a wood into a
valley opening on to the Sakura-
Baba road close to the new and
extensive Normal School buildings.
12. Kwaniion-no-taki {Cascade).
This waterfall forms one of the
•chief points of interest in the
neighbourhood of Nagasaki. The
usual route is over the Himi-t5ge
to the viU. of Tagami, whence
the road turns I. towards the hills,
and is practicable for jinrikishas
the whole way. The distance from
Nagasaki is about 4 H. Near the
entrance to the temple grounds at
the foot of the cascade, a large oak-
tree almost overarches the way.
The courtyard is lined with stone
images of Kwannon and Fudo.
The grounds are tastefully laid
out with trees and shrubs, and
the steep slopes on the bank
of the stream flowing from the
fall are built up in terraces faced
with stone, and planted with
flowering cherry-trees, camellias,
azaleas, and maples, which, when in
season, give a brilliant colouring to
the scenery. The temple is dedi-
' cated to Kwannon, and is said to
I date from the year 1730. Plassing
liehind the priest's house, we reach.
. the cascade, a pretty fall shoot-
ing over a rugged cliff and
tumbling into a deep pool about
. 50 ft. below. This picturesque
spot is a favourite resort of
picnic parties. Upon payment of
a small fee, the priest will pro-
vide accommodation in the room,
f acinjr the f aU.
ROUTE 55.
EXCUBSIONS FROM NaGASAXI.
1. THE TAKASHIMA, NAEA-NO-SHIXA,
AND HASHIMA COAL MINES. 2.
NAGASAKI TO SASEBO. 3. FROM!
NAGASAKI TO SHIMAJBABA viA OB4-
MA AND ONSEN (uNZEN) ; WALKS
NEAR ONSEN ; ASCENT OP FUGEN-
DAKE. 4. NAGASAKI TO SHIM ABABA
Vid ISAHATA AND AITSU. 5. THB
baths of ureshino and takso.
1. — The Takashima Coal Minbs.
The island of Takashima, in
which are situated the Takashima
coal mines, lies about 8 m. S.W. of
the entrance to the harbour of
Nagasaki, and Naka-no-shima and
Hashima about 1 m. f urt > er. Taia-
shima is only some 250 acres in
extent.
Until 300 years ago it was totally unin-
hjtbited. TJie llrst people to occupy the
island were a guard of five otticere, placed
there by the Prince of Hiz^n to preveot
foreigners from landing. The mine was
first worked by the Japanese 150 years
ago. In 1867, the Prini-e of Uizen, in.
partnership with Messrs. Glover and
Co. of NagftSHki, largely developed the
resources ot the mine by the introduction
of machiueiy and ICuropean methods of
rainiiiK. 'Jhe workings have since then
been extended, until the Takashima ooliiery
has probahly become the largest iu Asia.
it has been in the iiands of the enterpris-
ing Mitsubishi Ck}mpany since April 1881.
TaJcashima Coal Mines. Saseho. Onsen.
885
All the mines extend for a g■re^t distance
under the sea ; and from recent discoveiies,
it is believed that a larpe field of unt( moil-
ed coal still exists, aui tlint the Takashimn
mine as well as those on the "djacent is-
lands of Naka-no-shinia and Hashima will
■vield larsre supplies for many years to come.
The mine Hffords employment to over 8,000
persons, 'i'lie total yield of Trtkashima and
Nakano-shima for 1888 whs 445,<iOO tnn.s,
and for all the coal-mines in Japan during
the same period, 2,07(),743 tons.
The highest point of the island
commands an extensive view for a
distance of 80 m. seaward, compri-
sing the whole group of the Goto
Islands. A tug-boat belonging to
the colliery company runs between
l^agasaki and Takashima twice
daily, and permission for a passage
can be obtained by applying at the
Company's office in Nagasaki.
2. — Fbom Nagasaki to Sasebo.
A small steamer leaves Naga-
saki twice a week for Sasebo at
about 9 A.M. Just outside the
entrance of the harbour, the island
of Pappenberg is on the right.
The course then lies N.W. almost
"within a stone's throw of the shore.
A large rock hollowed out by the
waves into a, natural arch of colos-
sal proportions appears on the 1.
about 1 hr. later, as does also the
island of Ikeshima. At about noon
the steamer enters a small bight
where the Seto Straits, about 30
yds. wide and very picturesque,
come in view and suddenly reveal
another way out. After clearing
the straits, the course still lies
along the shore, till the steamer
enters a large bay in which the
harbour of Sasebo, similar in size
and appearance to that of Naga-
saki, is situated. At the upper end
of the harbour are the brick build-
ings of the Naval Station, the most
imposing structures of their kind
in Kyushii. The steamer arrives at
Sasebo {inn, Harima-ya) at about
6 p.m. To make the round journey
returning vi^ Haiki and Tokitsu,
for which 2 days are sufficient,
see p. 383.
3. — From Nagasaki to Shimabara
via Obama and Onsen (Unzen).
Ascent op Fugen-dake.
This excursion can easily be
made in 3 days. It would be
possible, provided an early start
were made from Nagasaki, and the
wind were fair for the passage to
Obama, to reach Shimabara in 1
day; but travellers are recom-
mended to pass the first night at
the hot-springs of Onsen. A
steamer plies in summer between
Mogi and Obama (see p. 382),.
but it is not to be relied on.
It leaves about noon. Sailing
boats are usually taken from Aba
for the passage to Obama.
[The best way of reaching Onsen,
should the weather be too
rough for sailing, is by road
via Aitsu and Obama. The
route as far as Aitsu is the
same as that given on p. 389.
The roads are fairly good
throughout.
The ascent is easy but steady
from Aitsu to a high ridge
overlooking Chijiwa Bay ; from
this a broad road degcends to
the shore, commanding views
of exquisite scenery. The roots
of the fir-trees at Chijiwa,
standing out above the sand,
present an extraordinary ap-
pearance. In returning to
Nagasaki by road, the traveller
should by all -means descend
from Onsen to Chijiwa, 3 ri,
for the sake of the magnificent
views on the way.]
Itinerary.
NA G AS AKI to :— Ri. Cho. M.
Himi 2 18 6
Aba 10 f
Obama (by boat) 7 — 17
Onsen 3 — 7^
SHIMABAEA 5 — 12
Total 17 28 43^
386
Route 55. — Excursions from XagasaJd.
JmnMshas with two men should
be taken to Aba. Time may be
saved bj sending ahead to have a
boat ready. The charge for a
private boat, when three boat-
men are taken, is about f2; time
%\ith fair wind, about 3 hrs. The
remainder of the journey from
Obama is best x>erformed on foot,
though iMgos or packhorses can be
hired for the ascent to Onsen if
required, and kagos can be taken
from the latter place to Shimabara.
At Himi the road turns r., and
10 cho further reaches
Aba (Inn, Tsuta-ya), a poor fish-
ing village, but prettily situated.
OjTposite lies the island of Maki-
shima, which encloses between it
and the mainland a small harbour
where junks can anchor. The sail
across to Obama affords charming
views. In front the various peaks
of Onsen-ga-take are seen to
advanta<i:e, and are named in
the following order from 1. to
r. : — Azuma-dake ; Fugen-dake, the
highest point of the mountain ;
Taka-dake and Takai-iwa, the shai-p
rocky summit rising behind a
nearer ridge to the r. Looking back,
there is a fine view of the Naga-
saki peninsula, whose bold steep
coast is indented with bays and
inlets. To the 1. the bay is studded
with wooded islets extending from
a reef off the eastern point of
Makishima; and in the distant
background rises Tara-dake, the
highest mountain in the province
of Hizen.
Obama (Inns, Tsuta-ya, Abe-ya),
much frequented on account of
its mineral waters, which un-
doubtedly possess great efficacy
in rheumatic complaints, con-
sists entirely of inns. The vill.
when viewed from the sea has a
picturesque aspect, the houses being
built on a high stone embankment
and on rocky ledges almost over-
hanging the water. Unfortunately,
little or no attempt is made by the
inhabitants to cater for European
' requirements. The baths are de-
tached from the inns* and are
mostly open tanks on the rocky
beach close to the spring from
which they are supplied. The
temperature of the water at its
source is 160^ F., but in the batibs
it is lowered to 106= P.
The road to Onsen first mounts
' a long fiight-of steps leading ap to
a Shinto shrine. At the hamlet <^
Sasa^no-toji, 1 ri from Obama^ the
road turns sharp to the L, and for &
short distance is steep and ron^h.
It then emerges on to an open
- slope commanding ' a splendid
' view towards the Nagasaki penin-
■ sula. The path now winds to
the r. between two slopes of the
ridge, and soon the conspicuous
I cone of Takai-iwa comes in sight.
; We next reach, 1^ ri from Sasa-
. no-toji, the small plain of Fudsn
j no-hara where Fugen-dake and
I Myoken-dake, two of the highest
I peaks, come into view. Further on,
{ a path r. branches off to the sul-
phur springs of KojigTOkn (18 cho),
where a hotel in foreign style,
called Shimoda-ya, has_been bmlt.
Soon the solfataras of Ojigoku are
seen to the r. before reaching the
vill. of
Onsen (Inns, Yorozu-ya, Ueda),
locally called Unzen, 2,550 ft. above
the sea, noted for its sulphur
springs, beautiful scenery, and
bracing air. The Japanese come
here to complete their recovery
after passing through a course of
the Obama baths, and the place
has of late years also become a
favourite resort of the foreign resi-
dents of the treaty ports in China.
The baths are public, but buckets
of water can be easily brought to
the inns, as the springs are close
by. Here stands the Buddhist
temple of Ichijd-in, which was
destroyed by fire during the Chris-
tian rebellion of 1637, and rebuilt
on a smaller scale. It is a poor,
dilapidated building. The- sol-
fatfuras are the chief objects of in-
Onsen. Walks in the Vicinity,
387
"t^rest at Onsen, but should not be
"visited without a pfuide, as the f oot^
ixig is in many places dangerous.
The springs extend in one seething
a*iid boiling mass for nearly a mile
along a hollow at the foot of fir-
<5lad hills, and the volume of steam
■which rises from them forms a
striking contrast to the dark
evergreen of the background. Their
activity varies at different times,
'water which under ordinary circum-
stances is thrown up from 2 ft. to 5
ft., being often projected to double
that height. Fanciful names have
been given to most of the geysers,
the finest being called Dai-Kyokwan,
the Loud Wailing" That which
bears the name of Chutd Jigoku,
or Middle Class Hell, has a tem-
perature of 204° F. Several of the
springs cannot be approached on
account of the very insecure
footing.
Walks from Onsen (YorozuL-ya) .
1. Turn to the r., pass thQ sul-
phur works, keep to the r., ascend to
the farm which supplies milk, take
the path about 30 yds. to the r. as
you face the farm, and keep to this
steadily till the shoulder of the hill
is reached ; cross the shoulder and
keep on to the r. From the top of
the ridge the views are splendid
in every direction. Be suye to
visit each of the three jutting
crags or peaks looking towards the
gulf. Return the same way, or
keepii^ to ther. descend by the
steep sneep track to the road from
Chijiwa to Onsen ; keep to the r.
back to Onsen. 2,h'rs.
2. Take the road to the 1. as you
face the torn, pass the vill. with
water-wheel, turn 1., cross three
streams, turn up the mountain on
the 1. Deep gorge and fine view ;
2 hrs. (This is No. 1 reversed, but
it is difficult to find the way up the
mountain).
3. Itoad over the hill to E. of bath,
i.e. road to the 1. as you face the
torii, but turning off to the r. just
outside the village of Onsen. Keep
on over rising ground with woods
on each side untU the grassy plain
at the foot of Onsen-ga-take opens
out. Take the centre path straight
for the mountain, leaving the lake
on the r. Ascend to the ridge
on the r. taking care to keep
well to the r. as soon as the
paths begin to ascend. The ascent
is rather steep to the r. shoulder
of the mountain but the view
amply repays one by its splendour ;
3 hrs. This is the first part of the
ascent of Fugen-dake.
4. Take the path to Kojigoku, pass
tlirough the village and turn to
the 1. under the new Foreign Hotel,
follow the path t6 the grassy ridge,
here turn to the r., and keep the
path right up to the summit of
Takai-iwa, where there is shelter
under a natural arch of granite,
with a magnificent view over the
Ku.chinotsu end of the peninsula.
This is considered by many to be
the finest view in the district. An
easy walk for ladies and a capital
spot for picnics. 3 hrs.
5. The same as No. 3 as far
as the lake, where turn off to the
1. and descend the first road
thi'ough a finely wooded ravine
with a stream flowing through it.
Keep steadily .on till the water-
wheel vill. is reached, then turn
1. and ascend to Onsen. The
reverse of this would be to start
like No. 2 as far as the water-wheel,
and there turn off r. and ascend
the ravine, keeping round to the r.
tor the return, li hr.
6. Same as » above to the lake,
which is passed by the right-hand
path. Keep along the path till it
bends off to the r., thence ascend
to the ridge in front, turn to the r.
and return by Kojigoku. 2 hrs.
7. Same as No. 1 to the shoulder
of the hill. From this go to the 1.;
keep on the ridge, descending until
the Obama road is reached on the
888
Houte 55, — Excursions from Nagasaki.
Fuda-no-hara moor ; turn to the
1., and return either by the Obama
road or by Kojigoku. 2^ hrs.
The road from Onsen to Shima-
bara ascends steeply to a grassy
hollow between the peaks of On-
sen-ga-take 1., and Taka-dake r.
In this hollow lies the Kara-ike, a
shallow tarn.
[The path up FiigOH-dnke
here turns off to the 1. A guide
is necessary. The summit con-
sists of three peaks, .which are
visited in the following order :
— Fugen-dake, Myoken-dake,.
and Onseu-ga-take, the latter
being the one seen first after
leaving Onsen. The ascent for
i hr. is a moderate climb to
the shoulder on the r. of On-
sen-ga-take. Here the two
other peaks come in view. The
path then descends through
thick brushwood, and on reach-
ing the opposite side of the
mountain, commences again to
ascend. In 1 hr. from the
shoulder of Onsen-ga-take, the
summit of Fugen-dake (4,800
ft. above the level of the sea)
is reached. Here stands a
perpendicular rock 50 ft. high,
on whose N. side, being shelter-
ed from the rays of the sun,
icicles are sometimes seen as
early as the month of Novem-
ber. This peak commands a very
extensive view, stretching from
the provinces of Higo and Sa-
tsuma on the one hand, to the
distant group of the Goto Is-
lands on the other, and includ-
ing, in addition to the lofty
summits of Aso-san and Kirishi-
ma-yama, innumerable bays
and islands, which together
form a panorama of in-
describable beauty. The second
peak, Myoken-dake, is reach-
ed in 2 hrs. from Fugen-dake.
The way lies partly through
brushwood, and passes a small
pond in which gold-fish are
said to exist. Turning the
shoulder of Fugen-dake, and
passing some caves for storing-
ice, the path descends into a
deep ravine, probably the ori-
ginal crater of the extinct
volcano, the bottom of whicli is
a mass of huge boulders inter-
spersed with trees. Wide cre-
vices ahd slippery rocks here
demand the tourist's care and
attention. The ascent to
Mj'oken-dake ftom this ravine
is very steep. The summit,
like that of Fugen-dake, com-
mands a magnificent view.
The third peak, Onsen-ga-take,
is reached without difficulty,
and the descent of the moun-
tain is easy and rapid. The
total distance from the hot-
springs of Onsen to the sum-
mit of Fugen-dake is called
3 ri. Pilgrims usually com-
plete the ascent of the various
peaks and the return to Onsen
in 8 hrs. The ascent and
descent could, however, be
made by a good pedestrian in
5 hrs.]
After passing Kara-ike, the
road descends through a fine rocky
valley, the conspicuous summit
of Takai-iwa being seen ahead. It
then' climbs a steep slope, and
brings in view the Gulf of Shima-
bara and several mountains in the
province of Higo. Below lies a
fertile plain, stretching away to-
wards the S*. part of the penin-
sula; a portion of the island of
Amakusa is also seen towards the
S. The descent to the plain is, for
the greater portion of the way, down
a grassy slope amidst boulders
and rocks. The latter part of the
descent is precipitous, through a
forest of pines, firs, and camphor-
trees. On reaching the hamlet of
Minokawa (2 ri from Onsen), the
road becomes less steep, and 10 cho^
further the way is fairly level.
Beyond Nakakoba there is a grand
Shimabara, Isahaya*
889
Tieiv of the magnificent precipices of
Maeyama (also called Kueyama),
liBin^ like gigantic walls between
tli& town of Shimabara and the
main summits of the volcano. It is
stated, that some time in the last
century this side of Maeyama was
carried away by an enormous land-
slip and thrown forward into the sea,
burying at the same time a part of
the town of Shimabara, and forming
the innumerable islets which, now
dad with pine-trees, give such a
picturesque appearance to the bay.
Shimabara, formerly the castle-
town of a Daimyd, consists of two
large divisions Imown respectively
as Minaio or *the Port/ (Inn, Chiku-
go-ya) and Joka or * the Town ' (Inn,
Hashimoto-y a) . The traveller should
be careful to state to which division
he wishes to go ; for the two to-
I gether are continuous for upwards
of 1 ri in length.
At Shimabara occurred one of the most
trag^ic incidents connected with the perse-
ention of the Christians in the 17th century.
Here the faithful assembled fur defence in
lar^ numbers fmm various parts of the
country, and occupied the site of the old
castle, portions of whoue walls still exist,
and around which mo^«t of the fighting took
place. Wlien the Christians were over-
powered, multitudes of both sexes and all
ages are said to have been pushed from the
cliffs into the st>a. Memorial stones m irk
the graves of the officers of the besieging
force, the largest monument, about 8 ft.
high, being dedicated to the memory of Ita-
hura. ^higemasa, Conimander-iu-C'hief of
the 8hdgun'8 army, who lost his life in the
attack on the stronghold.
4. — From Nagasaki to Shimabara
rrid Isahaya and Aitsu.
Itinerary.
NAGASAKI to :— Bi.
Himi 2
Tagami
Kikitsu 2
ISAHAYA 1
Sangen-jaya 3
Aitsu
Kojiro (Nishimura) 3
Shimabara Joka ... 4
Shimabara Minato.. 1
Cho.
M.
18
6
30
2ir
18
6
31
4^
5
n
15
1
28
9i
8 lOi
- 2i
Total 20 9 49i
This route is practicable through-
out for jinrikishas, and two men
are needed only when the whole
journey is to be done in one day.
Leaving Nagasaki by the suburb
of Sakura Baba, the road crosses
the Himigawa and the ascent of the
Himi-toge at once begins. The
road, diverging to the 1. is the old
route over the pass. In the narrow
gully, also to the 1. of the main
road are situated the new water-
works for the town of Nagasaki.
Near the top of the pass, the road
enters a deep cutting through solid
rocks, and on the other side winds
d6wn a series of terraces built up
along the steep face of the hill.
Many travellers walk over the old
road to the bottom, instead of fol-
lowing the tortuous windings of
the jinrikisha road. After passing
through the cutting, there is an
excellent view of portions of the
Gulf of Shimabara, the high sum-
mit of Taradake in Hizen, the
volcano of Onsen-ga-take, and in
closer proximity the bay of Aba, on
whose N. shore rises a conspicuous
mountain called Yagami Fugen-
dake. On reaching the hamlet
of Jffimi, which lies at the foot of
the pass, the road skirts the head
of the bay of Aba for a short dis-
tance, and soon reaches the vill. of
Tagami, a little beyond which the
road to Kwannon-no-taki, diverges
h (see p. 384). At the Fuji-no-
Ozaka, a hill about 1 ri further
on, the scenery becomes pretty, and
the bay of Omura soon comes into
view. Beyond the hamlets of
Kuyama and Kaitsu the road
divides, the r. branch descending
to Isahaya, the 1. leading to the
town of Omura (3^ ri). The latter
is the main road to Saga, the
capital of the prefecture, and on
to the Straits of Shimonoseki.
Isidiaya (Inn, Maru-ya) is a
small town lining both banks ^ of
the Hommyo-gawa, a river which
flows into the Gulf of Shimabara.
Sailing boats to Wakatsu on the
890
Bovte 55. — Eiteumons from Nagasaki.
^
Cliikago-gawa can be procured
here^ uie passage taking about 12
hrs. A Shinto temple stands in
prettily laid out gardens on the r.
bank of the river, and the pictur-
esque little tea-houses in the
grounds are much frequented by
holiday-makers. The river is span-
ned by a fine old stone bridge.
On leaving Isahaya, the road
crosses a plain to the vill. of Aka-
saki (1^ ri), and then skirts the
foot 01 low hills as far as the ham-
let of Moriyama, whence it ascends
a hill commanding a fine view of
the plain that stretches away to
the base of Taradake. From the
tea-house known as Sangen-jaya,
we soon reach the straggling vill.
of Aitsu (poor accommodation).
[An alternative way of reaching
Aitsu is by boat from Aba, the
passage usually taking from 3
to 3^ hrs. From the landing-
place, there is a path across
the isthmus to the vill., 8 chd,
where jinrikishas can be en-
gaged to Shimabara Minato.
From Aitsu a good road
branches off 1., and leads round
the peninsula of Shimabara vi&
Obama and Kuchinotsu, the
itinerary being as follows :
AITSU to :— Bi. Chd. M.
Chijiwa 19 3
Obama 2 — 5
Kita Gushiyama 118 3|
Minami Gushi-
yama 1 18 3^
Katsusa 1 — 2^
KUCHINOTSU 1 — 2i
Minami Arima. 1 — 2^
Kita Arima .... 20 H
NishiArie 1 10 3
Dozaki 1 15 3^
Fukae 1 30 4^
Nakakoba 18 3
SHIMABAEA
MINATO .... 1 18 3i
Total 17 2 41i
Kuchinotsu is a 'special port'
for the shipment of coal to
foreign countries. Nearly the
whole output of the Miike
mines is brought down to Ku-
chinotsu in ju^s, and tlience
exported to Shanghai, Hong-
kong, etc.]
The road between Aitsu and
Shimabara for the most part lies
near the shore of the gulf, and
commands from different points
magnificent views of the Shima-
bara mountains. The view across
the gulf i& also very beautifuL
6. — To THE Baths op Ubeshxwo
AND TaKEO, V%& ToKITSU, OvTTRA,
AND SONOGI.
. From Nagasaki it is an easy
day's journey to Takeo. Travellers
should start in time to catch the
9 A.M. boat from Tokitsu (see p. 383).
There is a second boat daily abont
1 P.M., by which Ureshino can be
comfortably reached the same day.
From Tokitsu the steamer runs
along the coast to ,
Omiira, formerly a Daimyo's
town, of neat and clean appearance.
The trip by water is very pleasant.
At
Sonogi (Inn, *Matsumori-ya ; in-
ferior accommodation at one on the
wharf), jinrikishas can be hired
to Ureshino, 3 H. The road lies
along a gently rising valley, the
slopes of which are coal-measures
inclined at moderate angles ; this
formation continues as far as Ta-
keo. Half a mile from the latter
place a white porphyritic rock
forms a mountain called Shiro-
yama. The scenery is pretty
throughout. The hot-springs of
Ureshiuo (Inns, *Shio-ya, Wata-
ya) are situated on the bank of the
river which flows past the town.
The public baths are enclosed in a
long wooden shed, and are divided
into three classes. The first-class
bath has three large handsome blue
and white porcelain receptacles for
the water^ which is cooled before
Route 56. — Nbrth'Westem Kyushu.
891
admission into the baths, and can
be let in or out at pleasure.
Takeo (Innst Shunkei-ya, Shoko-
in-ya) lies in a valley 3 ri from
Ureshino. The baths are supplied
from a single hot-spring. The
"first-class bath can be specially
engaged, for periods of 1 hr. at a
moderate figure. The famous pot-
teries of Arita are only about 6 m.
■distant from Takeo.
Proceeding to Arita, one can
return to Nagasaki via Haiki,
whence steamer to Tokitsu.
1. The Ktushu Eailwat.
ROUTE 56.
Theough North- Western Kyu-
shu BY Bail and Koad.
•
1. THE KYUSHIJ RAILWAY. DAZAIFU.
KUEUME TO NAKATSU BY THE
YABAKE VALLEY. 2. FROM KO-
KURA TO DAZAIFU Vld HIK0-8AN.
3. FROM FUKUOKA TO NAGASAKI
Vid IMARI AND ARITA. 4. FROM
FUKUOKA TO SAGA OVER THE
MOUNTAINS. 5. FROM TOSU TO
SAGA, AND TO NAGASAKI BY THE
MAIN ROAD.
The Kyushu Eailway will shortly
be completed to Kumamoto, 16 m.
farther than the present terminus.
The landscape is very fine the
whole way from Moji to Onga-
gawa, after which it is mostly flat.
A considerable portion of the line
skirts the sea-shore as far as
Hakata, where it strikes inland.
5 _ •
Names
Pi a:«
Ofi
Remarks.
s
Stations.
MOJI.
3m.
Dairi.
7i
KOKURA.
m
Kurosaki.
171
Orio.
20i ! Ongagawa.
27}
Akama.
(
34
Fukuma.
36i
Koga.
42
KaBhii
-45*
Hakozaki.
47
HAKATA.
5H
Zasshono-knma.
56
Futsukaicbi.
m
Harada.
CProposed
6i\
Tasliiro .,
3 Jet, for
j Arita and
V. Sasebo.
65}
69}
Tosu
Road to Saga,
KURUME.
77} i Halnotsuka.
81}
Yabesawa.
_
Watase
("Proposed
C station.
90}
Omnta.
98
Nagasu.
104
TAKASE.
Kokura (Inn, Nakamura-ya) is a
long, straggling, and busy town,
formerly the seat of a Daimyo, and
now occupied by a garrison. Steam-
boats ply daily between here and
Shimonoseki. .
Kurosaki (inn, Sakura-ya). Near
Orio, the railway crosses a bridge
spanning another line connecting
Nogata with Wakamatsu, a dis-
tance of about 27 m.
INogata (Inn, *Iwada-ya) is &
long viU. on i;he old highway
to Nagasaki. The Mitsubishi
Company are making it the
centre of their extensive coal
mining enterprise. The coal
region extends southward for
nearly 80 m., the best coal
being found between this place
and lizuka (Inn, Wata-ya).]
Near Ongagawa a good view is
obtained of the mountains on the
892
Eoute 56. — North-Western Kyushu,
1. of the line — Kurosaki-yama and
Fukuchi-yama — ^the highest point
of the line (300 ft. above sea-level)
being reached between this station
and
Akama (Inn, Yone-ya). Soon we
come in view of the stretch of sea
called the Genkai Nada. Just after
leaving
Kashii, the hot miheral springs
of Arayu are observed 1. On leaving
Hakozaki, one perceives the
Shinto temple of Hachiman men-
tioned below.
Hakata (Inns, Kaiyo-kwan, Sa-
tsnma-ya, in Hashiguchi-machi ;
Toshimi - ya in Naj ima - machi,
across the bridge on the Fukuoka
side) is the port of Fukuoka, from
which it is separated by the Naka-
gawa. The Public Garden is a
broad belt of fir-trees laid out in
walks and drives. It contains a me-
morial erected to Hojo Tokimune,
the then de facto ruler of Japan,
who in the 13th century met and
conquered at this spot Koppitsu
Setsu, a famous Mongolian gene-
ral who had seized Tsushima and
invaded Kyushu. Hakata is cele-
brated for its silk manufactures,
called Hakata~ori, and possesses
several fine shops. On the Naka-
shima, or * Central Island/ formed
by the two rivers which flow from
Dazaifu, is the Kyoshiu-kwan or
Public Hall, and the Club in foreign
style.
About I m. from the Public
Garden is the celebrated Shinto
temple known as Hakozaki Hachi-
mangu, standing in tastefully laid
out grounds with a fine avenue of
fir-trees extending down to the
sea-shore. From this an Excursion
should be made to Najinia, about
8^ m. by road, crossing a ferry
over an -arm of the sea close to
the railway bridge, and turning 1.
by the shore to a slight elevation
on which stands a very old tem-
ple dedicated to Benzaiten. The
spot commands a fine view of
the bay and islands. Below, on
the shore, are sections of a petri-
fied fir-tree, said by tradition to bo
the mast of the junk in which
the Empress Jingo Kogo was
wrecked when returning from
Korea.
On the way back to the town, we
pass the dilapidated Buddhist tem-
ple of Sofukvji. Here are the
handsome tombs of the former
Princes of Chikuzen, the fixst of
whom was Kuroda Nagamasa (d.
1623), an influential Christian con-
vert, commemorated in the letters
of the Jesuit missionaries under
the name of Simon Condera.
The railway station is at the
E. end of the town. From the
port, which has a pier over 400 ft.
in length, steamers to Nagasaki
and the south, and to Shimonoseki
and Osaka ply almost daily. All
information can be obtained at
Hayashi Kiyosuke*s office and inn
on the wharf.
On the other side of the river is
Fukuoka (Inns, *Fukushima-
ya, Kaiyo-kwan), formerly the re-
sidence of the Kuroda family.
Princes of Chikuzen, and now
capital of a prefecture and a
flourishing town possessing many
modern buildings, includmg the
Normal School, the Post and
Telegraph Offices, the Methodist
School for girls, and the Epis-
copal, Methodist, and Independent
Churches. The Daimyo-machi and
Tenjin-machi, extending from the
castle to the Prefecture (Kencho),
are exceptionally fine streets. The
castle is occupied by a garrison of
2,000 men. The Public Garden
(Nishi Kden) deserves a visit for the
sake of the views it affords. At the
base seawards is a small shrine,
and at low tide a pleasant walk
brings one back to the town round
the promontory of the park.
Atago-san should be ascended, for
which i hr. will suffice. Jinriki-
shas can be sent on to the western
descent, whence continuing the ex-
cursion we reach 2 ri further Mei-
Fuhuoka. Dazaifu, The Yahake Valley,
893
no-Kama. From here a detour should
be xaade to the r. to a shrine of
BisTuLmionf situated at the top of a
lofty, well- wooded hill, which juts
out into the sea and affords a
xjharining view. Time 1^ hr. The
road, runs alternately by the sea
and through fir plantations, anil is
extremely picturesque.
There are two waterfalls in the
neiglibourhood. One, called Kwa-
ran-takiy is distant about 4^^ ri, of
which 4 ri to the vill. of Ishigama
■can be done in jinrikisha. The
fall is about 100 ft. high, and is at
the source of the Moromi-gawa. The
other, called Baizan no tord-daki on
Ikaznchi-yama, is 3 ri off by jinri-
kisha and 1^ ri on foot.
Futsukaichi is the station for
Dazaifu (Inn, Izumi-ya), one of
the most celebrated places in the
south.
In early times Dazaifu was the seat of
the Governor-Generalship of the Island of
Kyushu , — a post which, though apparently
honourable, was often used as a form of
€xile for offenders of high rank. The
most celebrated of these exiled governors
¥«i8 Sugawara-no-Michizane, who is wor-
shipped under the name of Tenjin (see
p. 32).
At 'Dazaifu is a temple dedicated
to Tenjin which is approached
through a bronze torii built in 1 782,
and then over a high-arched bridge
spanning a large pond. The court-
yard contains a number of cows,
lions, and owls in bronze and stone.
Upon application to the priests,
various relics may be examined,
such as swords by famous makers,
a bronze statuette of Confucius,
and some MSS.
About I m. from Dazaifu stands
the Buddhist temple of Kwanzeonj%
founded in the 7th century. It
is dedicated to Kwannon, whose
colossal image, flanked by two
others, occupies the principal build-
ing.' A number of interesting
relics are here shown.
About li m. from the station on
the side opposite to Dazaifu, is the
hot-spring and sulphur bath of
Musashirmura, Above this will be
seen .a prominent peak crowned by
a single fir-tree, under which is
a small shrine. This is Temjpai-
zan, where Michizane, looking to-
wards Kyoto, worshipped the Em-
peror by whom he had been exiled.
The view from this point is exten-
sive. The sights of Dazaifu may
easily be done in 2 hrs., so that it
will be sufficient to stop between
trains.
Harada [Inn, Hizen-ya).
Tosii being the nearest station,
to the prefectural town of Saga^
travellers bound in that direction
will here leave the train. For
Saga see p. 896,
Kiiriiitie (Inns, Fukudo-ya, Ya-
mada-ya) stands on the 1. bank o£
the Chikugo-gawa, and was formerly
the seat of a Daimyo named Arima
Gemba-no-Kami. A pleasant walk
of 1 ^ ri through the suburbs leads
the traveller to Kora-san, a Shinto
temple of some note, whose grounds
are well-kept and command a fine
view of the plain below.
[From Kurume to Nakatsu bt
THE Yabake Valley.
Itinerary.
KURUME to :— Ri. Cho. M,
Yoshii 6 18 15}
Hida in Bungo... 6 — 14}
Miyazono 6 8 15}
Hidain Buzen ... 3 34 9}
NAKATSU 3 12 8}
Total 26 — 63i
Jinrikishas all the way.
Time 2 days, stopping the
first night at Hida in Bungo
(Inny Yamada-ya) . The Yabake
valley, celebrated for its beauty,
begins at Miyazono. For
Nakatsu see p. 398.]
Near, Omntn, the works of the
Miike coal mines are indicated by
the smoke rising fron them. Be-
fore reaching
Takase (inn, Kita-ya), the line
894
Boute 66, — North'WesUifi Kyushu.
approaches the sea, and good views
are obtained of Onsen-ga-take on
the Shimabara peninsula. There
is to be a station between Takase
and Kmnamoto at a place called
Ueki. To the 1., just before reach-
ing this, the line passes below a
small eminence called Tawara-zaka,
crowned by a monument to the
memory of the soldiers who fell
during the fierce fighting that
raged for eighteen days in this
neighbourhood during the Satsuma
rebellion. The monument is a
monolith of white marble brought
from Yatsushiro in 1878.
2, — Fbom Kokuba to Dazaifu vid
HiKO-SAN.
Itinerary.
KOKUEAto:— Ri.Cho, M.
Yobuno 4 JO 10^
Kawara 2 2 5^
Soida 3 11 8
Hiko-san 4 23 lU
• Koishiwara 3 — 7i
Amagi 6 — 14^
DAZAIFU 4 23 lU
Total 27 33 68
There is fair accommodation at
the chief villages passed through.
Jinrikishas are only practicable
over some portions of the route.
The road traverses a cultivated
plain between picturesque hills
to Tohuno, at the foot of a ridge
called Eyoga-no-hana. It then
crosses the Kibi-toge, commanding
a fine View of Kawara Ichi-no-take.
From Saitojo the road ascends
again, winding round this peak
and round Kawara Ni-no-takfe,
then descending to the village of
Kawara. Hence by jinrikisha to
Soida, up the valley of a tributary
of the Masuda-gawa, which takes
its rise on Hiko-san, and after
changing its name several times,
as is the manner of Japanese
rivers, falls into the sea between
Kokura and Hakata. From Soida
the road ascends the r. bank
of the river to Masuda, and th^i
follows its left bank to Ochiai,
where the river is crossed and
the 1. branch followed up a
steep ravine. After 1^^ hr. walk
from Masuda, that portion of the
Hiko-san range known as Sho-
jiku-take comes in view. The path
now becomes rocky and ascends to
Oiwake, whence we have a fine
view of Kambuku-yama, a conical
wooded peak, and of Shojiku-take,
a long grass-grown ridge. A flight
of broad, rough steps leads to a
bronze torii at the entrance of the
road to Gongen Sama. This is a
steep ascent of 42 cho by the most
direct way. The vill. of
Hiko-Sflii has many good walks
in its vicinity, affording splendid
views of Kosho-san, Umami-yama,
Kambuku, and other mountains.
Frbm Hiko-san the traveller re-
traces his steps to Oiwake, where
the road divides, the 1. branch
leading towards the province of
Chikuzen. As far as Shioi (baths
and inns), on the bank of the
Shioi-gawa, the road is level. It
then crosses the Kaif uku-togp and
several other hills before reaching^
the boundary between Buzen and
Chikuzen, 8 cho on this side of
Koishiwnra, noted for earthen-
ware of a dark colour, made
in this n^hbourhood by the de-
scendants of Korean potteife, who
are said to have migrated hither
after the^ conquest of their native
country 'by Hidpyoshi. Descend-
ing the valley of the Daikon-
gawa, the road traverses a vast
plain of arable land to Jizogaya,
before arriving at the large town
of
Amagi (Inn, Mizuire-ya). Hence
one may either proceed by jinriki-
sha the whole way to Dazaifu, or
turn aside at Yamae (Inns, Take-ya„
Kokura-ya), whence to Futsukaichi
on the railway is a distance of 2 ri.
For Dazaif II (Inn, Izumi-ya) see
the previous page.
From Fukuoka to Arita and to Suga,
895
3. — From Pukxtoka to Nagasaki
viA Imabi and Abita.
Itinerary.
FUKUOKA to :— Bi. Cho. M,
Meinohama 2 3 5
Imajuku 1 17 3f
Maebaru 1 31 4^
fhika)B 2 7 5i
Mamaeaki 4 9 10^
Tokusue 4 — 9f
IMAKI w. 4 — 9f
Arita 3 — 7i
Kawatana 3 2 7i
Tokitsu (by water) 7 — 17
NAGASAKI 2 32 7
Total 35 29 87^
Tliis trip is picturesque through-
out, and practicable for jinrikishas.
The road leaves Fukuoka by the
Toricho-bashi, spanning the stream
which supplies the castle moat
and mere with sea-water. The
road on to Hamasaki is wide and
level, with beautiful sea views.
JIiielMU*a (Inn, Koji-ya).
[After passing through this
yillage, a jinrikisha road turns
off sharp to the r. leading round
Ko-Fujiyama through pretty
scenery to the shore, and
}>assing several villages to
Xeiya, about 2^ n. Here there
is a singular cavern, which can
only be entered from the sea
* by boats obtainable at the vill.
The rocks are piled up in
columns and strangely fissured.
The cavern is about 12 ft.
high and iS ft. wide, but has
not been explored beyond a
depth of about 100 ft. Four
hours should be allowed for
this detour, j
The road from Maebaru follows
the sea-shore, and enters the pro-
vince of Hizen shortly before
leaching
Hamasaki (Inn, Man ju-ya). Here
a road branches r. to Karatsu
where coal is extensively mined.
From Toklisne {Inn, Manju-ya)
onwards, the road passes through
pretty scenery to
Imari (Inns, Nakano, Kyo-ya).
This place, situated at the bottom
of a small bay, gives its name to
the porcelain produced at Arita,
which is brought here for export.
Imari itself was never a seat of
the manufacture. The road to
Arita is along a picturesque valley.
Arita (several inns) is prettily
situated amongst the hills. The
traveller should not fail to visit the
potteries, and the quarries of
Izumi-yama where the stone is dug.
The rock is crushed by levers
worked by water-power. These
potteries were established in 1592
under the superintendence of a
Korean brought over by Nabe-
shima. Prince of Hizen. Clay from
Hirado and the Goto Islands is
now generally used for glazing.
From Arita the nearest way to
Nagasaki is by Jand to Kawatana
on the gulf of Omura, and thence
by steamer to Tokitsu. Another
route is to Haiki, 3 ri, and steamer
to Tokitsu.
4. — Fbom Fukuoka to Saga oveb
THE Mountains.
Itinerary.
FUKUOKA to :— Ri. Cho. M.
Sowara 32 2^
Tamura 1 16 3^
liba 1 20 3f
Mitsuze-yama 1 27 4^
Sandanda 3 9 8
Daichigawara 2 13 5}
SAGA 2 15
Total 13 10 32i
Only 9 ri of this road are prac-
ticable for jinrikishas. The por-
tion between liba and Sandanda
must be walked. Near Sandanda,
at the hamlet of Matsuo, is a fine
waterfall 250 ft. high, with a shrine
dedicated to Kwannon. There are
also two or three small spas in this
896
Route 56, — NoHh' Westei'n Kyushu,
neighbourhood, of which the best is
FuntyM possessing several good inns.
Further noteworthy are the old
Buddhist temple of Jisso-in, and the
Shinto shrine of Todo-hime, the
oldest in Kyushu, quaintly situated
by the riyer-side at the foot of the
mountains, and much resorted to
by holiday-makers from Saga.
6. — Feom Tosu to Saga, and to
Nagasaki by the Main Boao.
Itinerary.
TOSU to:— Ri. Cho. 3f.
Nakabaru 1 24 4
Kanzaki 2 5 5^
SAGA 2 2 5
Ushizu 2 18 6
Oda 2 5 5i
Kitataka 2 11 5f
TAKEO 1 5 2f
TJreshino 3 24 9
Sonogi 3 — 7i
Omura 4 24 Hi
Eisho 3 — 7i
Yagami 3 32 9i
NAGASAKI 3 17 8i
Total 35 23 87
\
Tosn being the nearest station
to Saga, travellers alight here.
There is an excellent jinrikisha
road the whole way on to Nagasaki.
Nakabaru is a regular resting-
place, though it offers but poor
accommodation.
Kanzaki is a large and flourish-
ing town, noted for the manufac-
ture of vermicelli and maccaroni.
A new direct road from this to
Saga shortens the journey by 1
ri. A fine bridge spans a tributary
of the Ogawa, whose waters in flood
time in May or June have often
wrought terrible destruction in the
surrounding valley.
Saga {Inns^ Hitotsu-ya, Matsu-
moto-ya) is situated in the centre
of an extensive plain famous for its
rice cultivation. This old and cele-
brated castle-town was formerly the
seat of the Nabeshima family.
Princes of Hizen, whose present
representative. Marquis Nabe-
shima, now occupies the post of
Grand Master of Ceremonies at the
Imperial Court and was some time
Japanese Minister to Italy. The
chief feature of the place is the
Shimbaba park, which contains
shrines tx) the memory of the
ancestors of the Nabeshima family.
Among them is a fine white marble
memorial to Naomasa, father, of
the present' Marquis, who brought
it over from Italy. The grounds
are prettily laid out. The new
Police and Prefectural offices are
pretentious buildings in modem
style. The old castle has been
turned to various purposes, and
but few traces of its original
grandeur remain ; but a magni-
ficent effect is produced in August
when the extensive moats are
filled with lotus-flowers.
About ^ ri N. of the castle is
^0710 no 0 Chaya, the Nabeshimas*
country-seat, which visitors are
shown over in the absence of the
family by courtesy of the custo-
dian.
Saga hfvs given its same to one of the
small civil wars which followed the great
revolution of 1868, when feudalism was
making its last struggle against Im-
perialism and Europeanisation. £to
bhimpei, some time Minister of Jnstioe
under the new Imperial Government, hav-
ing returned to his home in Saga, raised
the standard of revolt, expectiug all Kyn-
shQ to follow him. In this, however, he
was disappointed, and the revolt was put
down in ten days. Eto and ten otner
ringleaders were condemned to death, and
their heads exposed on the pillory. Hus
took place in 1871.
Leaving Saga the road traverses
the great plain forming the head
of the Shimabara gulf, across which
Fugen-dake can be clearly seen.
After passing the long straggling
viUage of Ushizu, the road gradually
approaches the mountains. Tamor
guchi possesses a favourite rest-
house half-way to Takeo.
Oda is a busy village with several
coal-pits close by the road. At
EoiUe 57 .-^N, E, Coast and Kumamoto,
897
«Lbout 2 ri we pass r. a large re-
serToir to supply the fields on the
level sea-shore.
Takeo to Sono^i (see p. 390).
From Sonogi to Omura along the
shore of the gulf is a very pretty
ride of 5 ri. The avenue of cherry-
trees just before entering the latter
liOTm is a great attraction in spring
"to .visitors from Nagasaki.
Omiira {Inuy Kambutsu-ya) was
formerly the residence of a Dai-
ray 5, and is still a busy town.
Tbe walls of the castle are still in
good preservation. The finely
"wooded, well-kept grounds afford a
cliarming place to saunter in.
Paintings and various other relics
of bye-gone days are here preserved
in a srnaU building.
Leaving Omura, a capital road
tlirough charming scenery passes
through Eisho, crosses a spur of
the mountains, and descends to
Isahaya. The remainder of the
^vay en to Nagasaki is described on
p. 389.
[By leaving Saga at 6 a.m. with
two jinrikisha-men, the 1.30
P.M. boat may be caught at
Sonogi. Should the boat be
missed, it i^ possible by taking
fresh runners to reach Naga-
saki the same evening, the
whole distance by road being
30 n from Saga.]
EOUTE 57.
FeOM EOEtTBA TO OlTA BY THB
NoRTHrEAST Coast, and across
COUNTRY TO KuMAMOTO.
ASCENT OF ASO-SAN AND KIMBd-SAN.
RAPIDS OP THE KUMAOAWA.
Itinerary.
KOKURA. to :— RL Cho. M.
Igawa 2 — 6
I^nda 2 — 5
Gyoji 1 18 3f
Ohashi 18 H
Shiida 3 18 8^
Matsue 1 — 2^
Hachiya 18 1^
NAKATSU 2—6
TJsa-no-Hachiman 5 — 12^-
Tateishi 3 ^ 7^.
Nobara 2 — 6
Toyooka 2 18 6
Beppu 3 18 8^
OlTA 3 __ 7^
Notsubara 3 18 8i
Takeno-toge 4 — 9f
Takeda :... 4—91
Sugabu 2 18 6
Sasakura 2 — 5
Sakanashi 2 — £
Boju 1 18 3t
Shieda 6 18 ISJ
KUMAMOTO ... 4 18 11
Total 63 — 153f
The above distances can only be
considered approximate.
Igawa is a poor village, on leav-
ing which the road descends into
the valley to Shimosone. Fine
views of the Inland Sea are ob-
tained on the way. From Kanda
the country is very pretty to
Ohashi, with views of the islands
and sea. The 6 ri take about 4 hrs.
Oliashi (Inn, Goto-ya, on the far
side of the town). From here the
road ascends to a moor covered
with dwarf azaleas for 2 ri. Two
enormous fir-trees will be notici^d
by the roadside, 30 ft. in circum-
ference at the ground. From
898
Route 57. — N, E, Coast and Kumamoto,
Shiida to Mataue the road is stony
and hilly.
Nakatsn {Inns, *Sarasa-ya, Mi-
• hara-ya) is a busy, thriving town.
From this to Yokkaichi on the right
trill be observed a high, detached
mountain called Hachimen-zan or
'Eight-faced Mountain.' It is a
singular conformation, much re-
sembling near the summit an ivy-
covered fortress.
[From Nakatsu, a jinrikisha
road passes through a valley of
great beauty to Hida, 10 ri,
from which there is a good
road to Eurume, 11 ri. 'The
road from Nakatsu to Hida,'
says Br. Naumann, 'presents
a very peculiar sort of scenery,
which is not met with in
any other part of the coun-
try,— pinnacled, columnar, and
pyramidal shaped rocks are
everywhere seen, and below
them a rushing river. In fact
one might imagine it was here
that the fantastic Chinese style
of landscape painting origi-
nated.']
The next 3 ri are flat and un-
interesting. The ground then rises
steadily, leaving the sea.
Tamashita (Fnn, Yodo-ya). The
scenery now becomes picturesque.
Tokkaichi (Inn, Tofu-ya, close to
a temple of the Shinshu sect). A
mile further the road crosses the
Hyakkwan river.
Usa-uo-Hachiinan (Inn, Okamo-
to-ya) lies at the bottom of a basin
formed by surrounding hills. The
road passes under a fine large brass
torii, crosses the river in a rocky
ravine by a handsome covered
bridge coloured red, and then
passes under an antique gateway
on which are inscribed the names
of famous marksmen in the Genji
period (1864-5). Beyond this is a
wide street leading to a pretty
park. Here are three Shinto shnnes
dedicated respectively to the Em-
perors Ojin and Chuai, and to tlie
Empress Jingo, aU bright red
and embowered in trees. Passing'
under an avenue of fir-tree9> a
turn soon hides Usa from sight, eknd
the road ascends for some distance.
Looking back, a fine view of the sea
opens out. Descending, the road
crosses a river by a noble bridgpe,
and soon passes the boundary that
separates the provinces of Bnng-o
and Buzen. As soon as we enter
Bungo, the scenery becomes bold
and magnificent, mountains rising-
on each side to a height of 1,000
ft. The road gradually ascends by
the side of a river, and after
passing through Kanamaru-Machi»
the scenery becomes more pictur-
esque. At Mukunoto is a large
reservoir formed by damming up
the valley.
Tateishi (good inn). Passing
Eii;Lzan-bashi, the rosid becomes
level and the view gradually opens
out. Descending a steep hiU we
reach Nobara-mura, from which a
road 1. leads direct to Hiji;. but
that to the r. is recommended for
the scenery. We next cross the
river Gogawa and walk for 3 ri
over the moimtains, a steep pull
of 1 hr. up a good road to the top
of the Kanagoi-toge. Here a halt
should be made, and one of the peaks
ascended for the sake of the view ;
10 min. will suffice. South is Yufu-
dake j W. Earaki-yama ; there is
a magnificent panorama of the
coast and bay from Kizuki N. to
Oita S., and of the Bungo Channel ;
the Gulf of Oita lies below. The road
descends by steep gradients to the
shore. A fine road winds round to
Oita, 1 m. from the foot of the
mountain. Wide sands extend for
the next ri to
Tanegawa, a dirty village with
a curious arrangement of open
hot baths, one to about every six
houses, on both sides of the street.
The water comes from the hot-
springs above Beppu. Immense
numbers of dwarf mulberry trees
Beppu and its Vicinity.
399
:remiiid one that Bungo is famous
<or its silk.
Beppn (Inn, Hinago-ya) is a cele-
l>Tated resort on account of its hot
liaths. Every street has a bath-
lioase, as well as the hotels and
;principal houses. The whole ground
of the semi-circular flat that
girds the bay is undermined by
volcanic vapours and hot water.
In the suburb of Hamawake on the
shore across the river Asami, are
"two very large bath-houses called
the East and West Baths. Each
accommodates about 400 patients,
the Ught of whom bathing is a
unique spectacle. The baths, which
are sunk in the ground, are gra-
duated to suit all sorts of chronic
diseases, and on the piUars are
labels giving the requisite informa-
tion. The sea water flows in gently
at high tide and reduces the tem-
perature. Visitors are warned in
the native guide book ' not to kill
the ox whilst straightening the
horns,' that is, not to injure their
constitutions to cure a local affec-
tion. The temperature of the
waters, which are alkaline and
chalybeate with large quantities
of carbonic acid gas, is from 100°
to 132° F.
To the S.W. on the bay is a lofty
precipice called Takazaki, easily
ascended from the land side, whose
summit commands a glorious view.
[No person eager for new sights
and not over-squeamish should
fail to visit the solf ataras from
which the hot baths are sup-
plied, a distance of 1 ri 8 chd
by jinrikisha to the vill. of
Kannawa-mura. Open hot baths
will be noticed at intervals by
the roadside. In the village
is a steam bath-house which
holds 16 persons at a time. It
is walled round with stone and
roofed in, and there is but a
small aperture for ventilation.
The floor is a lattice, under
which rushes a stream of
natural boiling water. The
entrance is by a low door
covered with a straw mat>
beneath a curious shrine.
Intending bathers wait in a
lar^e ante-room in a state of
nudity, each paying 10 sen for
the day, and receiving a' tally.
As soon as one emerges from
under the mat, another gives
up his tally and enters, each
stopping in for about an hour.
The bathers come out covered
with droppings of mud and
rushes which fall from the
roof, and hasten to cool at a
large pool on the other side
of the street under six spouts
of fresh water. Along the
sides of the village streets are
to be seen kettles and sauce-
pans set to boil over holes in
the ground. Natural hot water
in large quantities flows
through pipes from the springs
above the village, and opposite
the door of each house is a set
of holes for cooking purposes,
covered with sods when not
wanted. The largest geyser,
Umi JigokUy is jJrettily situated
under a leafy bank. It is 42
ft. in diameter, and the water
which is intensely green, boils
with great force, but does not
rise above 2 or 3 feet. An-
other, called Ishi Jigohi, is full
of reddish stones ; and Bozu
JigokUy situated in a wood of
flrs and bamboos near by is
also worth a visit. It is
a geyser of light grey mud,
the noise of which is deafen-
ing-]
Behind the town of Beppu rises
Tsurumi-yama, the centre of all this
volcanic activity. It would no
doubt repay a visitor with leisure
to explore its well-wooded ravines.
Yufu, also called the Bungo Fuji,,
on account of its beautiful conical
shape, stands at the back of Beppu.
[Beppu can be reached from
400
Route 57, — N, E. Coast and Kumamoto.
Kurume via Hida through the
picturesque Yabake valley
(see p. 393), about 24 ri. There
is a fair jinrikisha road all
the way. Iz is advisable to
sleep at Hida.]
The trig by jinrikisha from
Beppu to Oita is one of the most
picturesque in Japan. On the r.
are high cliffs covered with foliage,
the sea is far below, and mountains
rise in the distance. At about 1^
ri the road passes through a tun-
nel, and in 1 ri more turns from
the sea through shady groves to
Oita {Inn by Mizuno in Hori-
kawa Machi), capital of the pre-
fecture of the same name, a large
and busy port with long, dirty
suburbs. From this, port, steamers
run at irregular intervals to Shi-
koku, Kobe, Osaka, and Shimono-
seki. The chief manufacture of
Oita is silk yar6, which is produced
in large quantities.
It was to this place that the Portuguese
adventurer, Mendez Pinto, found his way
in the year 1513 when he had discovered
Japan, and met with a friendly reception
from the Dainr^o. The wonders or his
arquebus, the first explosive weapon ever
seen by the Japanese, are still spoken of
by the townsfolk. The great Jesuit mis-
sionary, St. Francis Xavier, also spent
some time at Oita a few years afterwanls ;
and Otomo, the lord of Fumai, Ets Oita
used to be called, was the first Daimyo to
become a Christian.
About 3 ri from Oita a curious
double bridge, the Taurutsti-hashi-^
one low for dry seasons, and one
very high for flood-time — crosses
the Hachiman-gawa. After this,
the road runs between rocky walls
covered with foliage to
Nolsiibara. One mile before
reaching the vill. there is a saline
spring, which also contains car-
bonic acid gas. Notsubara lies in
the midst of a very large crater,
having perpendicular walls of
rock covered with vegetation.
A river runs through the crater,
and the road crosses it by two
parallel bridges, one much higher
.than the other. Oh crossing the
top of the crater wall, a lovely-
view opens out. The road continues
through exceedingly wild and pic-
turesque scenery, until at 5 ri from.
Oita it emerges on a plateau,
whence for 1 ri it leads through,
grand woods which now and then:
give peeps of mountains behind.
Again it ascends for 1^ ri to a
pass where the Fujiya inn offers
rough but welcome shelter. The
ascent is followed by a descent of 4
ri through well- wooded country to
Takeda (Inn by Eawamura in
Teramachi). This most remark-^
able place which was once a Dai-
myo's seat, is shut out from the
outer world by a natural wall
of limestone aboirt 180 ft. high,
and from 20 ft. to 30 ft. broad.
This wall rises almost perpendi-
cularly from the plain, and entirely
encloses the town through which
runs a broad river, the Inaba-gawa.
Access was formerly obtained by a
sloping path to the summit out-
side and by a similar one inside.
About 20 years since, seven or
eight tunnels were cut through the
rock, 18 ft. wide and 20 ft. high.
The southern tunnel is 180 yds. in
length, and has a deep well near
the outer entrance. This tunnel
is 15 ft. wide and 12 ft. high.
There is no sign whatever of any
human dwellings as one approaches
the outside of the rocky wall ; but
then comes the plunge through
the damp, dark hole, and on emerg-
ing into daylight one finds oneself
in the clean and busy little town
of 8,000 inhabitants, wliich played
a prominent part in the Satsuma
Rebellion.
About i m. outside the town
by the southern tunnel, is a sin-
gular waterfall in a zigzag, the
left face 200 ft. wide, the right
forming an entering angle 35 ft.
and 25 ft., the whole about 30
ft. high and called Shira-takL
Four ri from Takeda on the east,
is a grand fall of 300 ft., called
Chinda, Prisoners condemned to
Takeda, Kwnamoto, Ascent of Aso-mn,
401
death were precipitated over this
xn. ancient times^ and if they es-
ostped alive were pardoned. Qn the
■wrest, about 4 ri distant, is the
SKinomizu fall, 180 ft. high.
On leaving Takeda, the road gra-
dually ascenc^s until a ridge about
1,600 ft. above the sea is reached,
"wrMch affords splendid views. No
accommodation is to be found for
3 ri. At Sugdbu the_road joins the
old main road from Oita, now little
used. On the 1. rises Sobo-san, on
"fclie r. Kuju-san, and in front Aso-
san with its pillar of smoke. There
is an inn at Sasakura, soon after
leaving which viU. the road enters
a ravine. The descent is un-
usually steep for nearly 1,000 ft.,
— ^in fact it is a plunge into the
old crater of Aso-san with its hun-
dred villages — the first about a
mile from the bottom of the des-
cent being
8akanaslii ( Inn, Sonoda-ya ),
■w^liere the night is usually spent.
On the 1. is Neko-dake, and on the
r. the rocky wall of the old crater
sweeping round in a majestic
circle. One and a half ri further is
Boju on the way to Aso-san.
Knmamoto, (Innst Suigetsu, and
others near Semba-bashi), a garri-
son town, formerly the capital of
the Princes of Higo and now the
chief town of the prefecture of
Kumamoto which comprises the two
provinces of Higo and Chikugo,
lies on the Shirakawa, 4 m. from
the mouth of that river. Having
53,000 inhabitants, it is the most
populous city in Kyushu. It has
fine streets planted with trees,
public gardens, and above all a
magnificent castle.
This celebrated fortress, which stands
on an eminence aTx)ve the town, was built
hy Kat5 Kiyomasa, and is one of the
finest surviving relics of the feudal period.
The noble defence of this place in 1^77
1^ Greneral Tani was one of the immediate
causes of the failure of the Satsuma Rebel-
lion under Saigd. Instead of masking it,
and marching onwards to Kokura, SaigO
laid siege to the castle. During the
weeks thus wasted by him, the Imperial
Government had time to hurry down
ti-oops to oppose his further progress, and
after some bloody battles on Tawara-zaka
and at Ueki and Yamaka to the N., he
was obliged finally to retire in the direc-
tion of Hitoyoshi.' Crossing over into
Hytlga, he endeavoured to force his way
up the E. coast of KyUsha, but was
checked again at Nobeoka, where tlie
main body of his anny was forced to sur-
render. With a few chosen companions
he escaped across the mountains back
to Kagoshima, which he re-occupied,
taking up a strong position on Shiroyama
behind the town. The Imperial troops
were not long in surrounding the rebel post,
and after a summons to surrender, which
met with no response, an assault was
made early one morning. After a brief
but desperate struggle, the survivors laid
down their arms. Having received a
severe wound, Saigo submitted to de-
capitation at the hands of a devoted
friend, more Japouico. Thus ended the last
serious attempt" to oppose the develop-
ment of the enlightened principles of
government that have transformed the
political condition of modern Japan.
At Kunlamoto there is a pretty
park called Suizenji, once the
garden of the country house of
the Hosokawa family. It hes in a
southerly direction from the pre-
fectural office, and is reached by a
road over the Ansei-bashi. The
spot affords fine views, and the
dwarf azaleas on rounded knolls
are exceedingly pretty. A spring
in the garden forms a large stream
which is filled with fish. The walk
takes about ^ hr.
One H N.W. of the town is
situated the shrine of Kato Kiyo-
masa, which is reached by a long
flight of steps, lined on either side by
cherry-trees. The oratory contains
ex- vote pictures representing Kiyo-
masa's exploits in Korea. The tomb-
is enclosed, and the courtyard in
front generally crowded with wor-
shippers from all parts of Kyushu.
Excursions from Kumamoto.
Ascent op Aso-san.
Jinrikishas can be taken to
Boju and back, by the road which
runs by the side of the Shirakawa
and below the level of the old Ozu
road. The new road is not so-
interesting as the old one, which
402
Route 57. — N,E, Coast and Kumamoto.
lies along an avenue of pine-trees
300 years old. Soon after leaving
Kumamoto, the road descends
r. to the bank of the river, and
straight ahead is seen the lofty
column of steam ascending from
Yunotan half-way up the moun-
tain. The whole distance to Boju
is 11 ri. At a distance of 71 ri. from
Kumamoto is Tateno-mura, situat-
ed between two lofty mountains, —
Kitamuki-yama on the r., Tateno-
yama on the 1. At this point it is
well to leave the jinriMshas, send-
ing them on to Boju, and to visit
Tochinoki 8hin-yu on the r. of the
road, from which the ascent can be
made viA Yunotan to the crater of
Aso-san and the descent to Boju.
[Should the traveller be going
on from this place to Oita, he
should go on about ^ mile be-
fore leaving the road for To-
chinoki and visit two water-
falls— the Shiraito no taki and
Suganiga no taki — formed by
the fall of the Kurokawa over
a ledge of black rocks. They
are close to the road-side, a nar-
row path descending for a few
yards to a small jutting plateau
crowned with trees. Standing
on this, we see both falls at
once, the Shiraito on the r., the
Sugaruga, on the 1. Dobin-
dake rises in the background,
the whole forming a perfect
picture whose rare beauty will
never be forgotten.]
The road descends from Tateno-
mura on the r. about i m., then by
a zigzag to the river bank opposite
to Tawara-yama. Here two streams
meet at the foot of a precipice
some 500 ft. high, clothed with
verdure. On a jutting rock stands
the inn of Tochinoki Shin-yu kept
by Hatashima, (good accommocUi-
tion.) The hot-springs are close by,
with a special jjath for foreigners.
There is also a tea-house reserved
for high officials, with a capital
£ton6 bath. From this place a
mountain path along the ravine
for 2 m. leads to the old.
spa, where people of all ages and
both sexes disport themselves in.
al fresco baths ingeniously erected
against the side of the hill. Dee-
cending to the water a few stejm to
the 1., we find ourselves opposite the
Aigaeri, a fine waterfall. In order
to save time, a guide should be
procured at Tochinoki. A steady
ascent thence leads over a g^rassy
moor to Yunotan, Ik ri. The
view of the valley behind, in the
direction of Kumamoto, is remark-
ably fine. At Yunotan is a greab
geyser of red mud and boiling
water, varying from 12 ft. to IS- ft. in.
height and about 30 ft. in diameter.
A number of rough bath buildings
and a few straggling cottages
with primitiye mountain inns for
visitors make up a strange scene.
From this a steady walk of 2 hra.
takes one to the summit. About
i m. from the crater is a
temporary village, only occupied
from March to October by sulphur
workers. One or two will accom-
pany the visitor to the crater, iLnd
show him the best route over the
cinders and scoriee. On surmount-
ing the ridge, there is a descent of
about 15 ft. to a bed of ashes
which fills half the cavity. From
the edge of this we look down to
the orifice about 150 feet below,
from which boiling water and
masses of sulphur are constantly
being ejected with great noise.
The guide will descend and procure
a lump of crude sulphur quite
hot ; but visitors are not allowed
to descend owing to the danger.
About forty people live at the
village during the summer, and
generally some fatal accidents oc-
cur in the course of the season. A
sacred sword preserved in a temple
on Aso-san is much venerated by
the people, and watched over day
and night by an official in antique
garb.
The descent to Boju, 2 hrs..
Ascent of Aso-san and Kimbo-mn,
403
reveals the wonderful panorama
of the old crater out of which the
present peak rises. ' The walls
surrounding it are 'about 800 ft.
high, the bottom seems quite level,
and there are over a hundred vil-
lages within its circumference of 30
miles. Thus Aso-san is probably
the largest crater in the world.
!Boju is at the end farthest
from Kumamoto, about 1^ ri from
the eastern wall. The road back
runs almost due west for 3^ ri to
Tateno-mura. On the 1. we see
Aso-san and Dobin-dake ; and the
pillar of steam from Yunotan ; on
the r., the old road ascending
to the Futa-ai-no-toge. A fine
bridge crosses the Kurokawa at
the exit from the old crater, and 1
ri further we reach the waterfalls
and Tateno-mura. _0n the 1. a
road diverges to the Ozu.road; but
there is nothing to repay the
traveller for leaving the direct
road in the valley to Kums^inoto.
Starting early — say 6 a.m. on a fine
day — and making sure that the
guide takes a lantern and candles
for the descent to Boju in case of
•delay, all can be well done in 2 days,
i.e. from Kumamoto and back.
Eruptions of Aso-san have l^een chroni-
cled from the beginning of Japanese his-
tory. The last was in February, 1884,
when immense quantities of black ashes
and dust were ejected and carried by the
wind as far as Kumamoto, where for
three days it was so dark that aitificial
light had to l)e used. The crops in many
of the fields in the intervening valley were
destroyed by the ashes. Great activity
also marked the volcano and geysers in
1889 at the time of the earthquake on the
yfith July, which did much damage in
Kumamoto and was felt severely 70 m.
away.
Ascent of Kimbo-san.
The ascent of this mountain, also
called Kimpu-san, 2,100 ft. above
the sea, may be made in about
2f hrs. from Kumamoto ; the des-
cent in 2 hrs. Passing along the
N. side. of the castle and keeping
straight on across the fields, the
track of the railway now in course
of construction between Kumamoto
and Takase is crossed. From this
the way leads past a steep little
hill, the sides of which seem to be a
good deal used as stone quarries,
and thence up a pretty valley by a
road paved with large flat stones.
The path then turns 1., and the
ascent of Kimbo-san begins at an
old well by the side of a large new
wooden torii (1 hr. 35 m.). This
torii has been erected to replace the
old stone one, which 'was thrown
down and shattered during the
terrible earthquakes of 1889. The
path hence to the summit is very-
steep and generally bad, but the
views amply reward one for the
exertion involved in the climb. On
the top stands a small temple, the
stone torii here also having been
shaken down and broken by the
earthquakes above-mentioned. Se-
ismologists, indeed, considered
Kimpu-san to have been the centre
of the disturbances, and an erup-
tion of the mountain was at one
time feared.
The view from the top is very-
fine, taking in the gulf of Shima-
bara, the towering form of Fugen-
dake on the Shimabara peninsula
to the W., the island of Ama-
kusa, and to the S. the Satsuma
mountains. Almost due £. lies
Aso-san, with its great columns of
steam rising from openings on the
W. side and near the summit.
Further N. runs another range
of hiUs seen from the 1. of the road
between Yamaga and Kumamoto.
The mountain scenery is very strik-
ing ; but still more so is the view of
the great plain of Kumamoto, the
city with its picturesque castle and
parade ground, and the serpentine
windings of the Shirakawa. The
comparatively small elevation of
Elimbo-san gives little idea of the
extent and beauty of the view to
be obtained from the summit.
404
Eoute 58. — From Kumamoto to Nobeoka and Oita,
3. The Eapids of the Kumagawa.
For the descent of these rapids^
one of the most picturesque river
Toyages in Japan, the traveller
goes for 12 ri by jinrikisha to
Yatsusliiro, {Inns, *Matsumura-ya,
Takata), where the night should
h^ spent, and then on to Siijiki
(Inn, Hashimoto-ya), from which
place there is a good road, 3
ri, to Tsu^e on the Kumagawa,
where boats may be obtained
for the descent of the river to
Yatsushiro. The rapids begin about
25 m. above Yatsushiro, and are
some thirty in number. R. and 1.
rise steep limestone cliffs, covered
with fine plantations of cryptome-
rias, pines, and bamboos. About
half-way down there is a large cave,
called Konose-iwa-do, with a shrine
inside and a subterranean stream
running through it. The cave is
about 250 ft. long, the same in
height, and 200 ft. broad. It is well-
worth landing to see. At last the
river issues into the alluvial plain
bordering the sea, and the current
becomes slower.
If bound from Yatsushiro to
Nagasaki, the traveller can follow
the Kumamoto road for 8 ri, as far
as Udo, from which point a road
turns south-west to Misumi, the
new port of Kumamoto, 6 ri. Small
boats also ply on the bay between
Yatsushiro and Misumi.
In proceeding from Kumamoto
to Nagasaki, one may take steamer
from Hyakkwan, at the mouth ot
the river, or go to Misumi by a
good road, 9 ri, whence larger
steamers start for Nagasaki and
Osaka. Particulars may be learnt
at the shipping offices in Kuma-
moto.
EOUTE 58.
From Kumamoto to Nobeoka
AND OlTA ON THE EaST CoAST.
ASCENT OF SOBO-SAN; THE BAPIDS
OF THE GOKASE-GAWA AND THE
ONA-GAWA.
Itinerary.
KUMAMOTO to :— Ri. Chb. M.
Mifune 4 13 lOf
Hamamachi (Yabe) 6 31 16|
Mamihara 5 30 14^
Mitai 6 — 14f
Miyamizu 4 18 11
Shimmachi 3 — 7^
Takeshita 1—2^
NOBEOKA (Si^irs.
by boat or) 6 18 15J
Kumada 4 7 loj
Shigeoka 6 — 14f
Onoichi 2 3 5
Miya-no-ichi 4 29 llf
Hosonaga 3 — 7^
Tsurusaki (5 hrs.
_ by boat)
OITA 2 10 5i
Total 60 15 147i
Plus 5 hrs. by boat.
[The above itinerary is that of
the main road. In order to
ascend Sobo-san, a more
northerly road for the first
portion of the route has to be
followed, namely to 8hin-yu, 3
hrs. journey, all by jinrikisha
except the last i hr. (p. 402). It
is a walk of 9 j ri from Shin-yu
to Kawachi, passing 'through
Shimmachi and Takamori (Inn,
Sakai-ya), 5 ri from Shin-yu.
From Kawachi the ascent of
Sobo-san, is made, — a moun-
tain by some considered to be
the highest in Kyushii, though
the palm is more generally
awarded to Kirishima-yama
further to the south. Leaving
Takamori, a climb of i hr.
leads to the top of a pass, 2,950
Ascent of Sobo-san. Noheoka,
405
ft. above thfe seg,, a little be-
yond which Sobo-san comes in
sight. The road onwards is
one of continuous ups and
downs ; but the country is very
beautiful, especially where the
path crosses a narrow valley
called Kawabashiri, 2\ri from
Takamori. Magnificent'crypto-
merias rise up on the opposite
side of the valley, some being
nearly 200 ft. in height, and
presenting a most imposing
aspect when viewed from the
valley below. From Kaidachi,
{Inn, Kaji-ya), 1,500 ft. above
the sea, the way up Sobo san
lies over the Mieno-toge, 2,800
ft. high, and through the vill.
of Gokasho, 1« hr., the actual
ascent commencing at a tor-
rent-bed, f hr. from the latter
place. The climb, which is very
rough and steep, especially the
last 1,000 ft., will take a good
mountaineer 2 hrs., or o hrs.
from Kawachi including stop-
pages. The profusion of maples
on the sides of the mountain
opposite is a wonderful sight.
From the summit of Sobo, 6,100
ft., there is a grand panorama
of mountains stretching range
beyond range and peak be-
yond peak. To the N.E. ap-
pears the sea in the vicinity
of Oita, and even the island of
Shikoku is visible in clear
weather. A torii and a small
stone shrine stand on the sum-
mit. The descent to Kawachi
takes 4^ hrs.]
It is 3^ ri from Kawachi to where
trhe main Nobeoka road is joined at
Mitai, the whole way being
marvellously b^utiful, worthy of
Switzerland itself. The same
land of scenery continues on
past Mitai, the road entering a
magnificent gorge through which
runs a deep, emerald green river
with rocky walls rising on either
side to a height of many hundred
feet. These walls once formed
part of a huge stream of lava
which came down from the crater
of Aso-san.
Miyamizn (fair acconunodation)
is prettily situated among the hills
at an altitude of 600 ft. The road
onwards follows the Grokase-gawa
to Shimmachi, the copper mines
near which were formerly of some
note. At
Tnkesliitn, boats can be taken
down the river, which has some
foaming rapids and overhanging
rocks. The passage to Nobeoka
takes about 5^ hrs. Traps are used
on this river for catching.trout. The
trap consists of a kind of chevaux de
/rise, made of bamboo and fixed
transversely across the stream at
the top of the rapids, the force of
the water being there so great
that the fish, when once caught in
the trap, find the current too strong
to allow of their escape.
Nobeoka (Inw,Kome-ya) is a con-
siderable town built on both sides
of the Gokase-gawa. Not far from
the town is the Nunohiki-taki,
one of the finest waterfalls in
Japan, whose height is estimated
to be 240 ft., its breadth 30 ft.
Nobeoka was the last stronghold of the
Satsuma reljels. On the 14th Auglist,
1877, the town surrendered, 8,000 insur-
gents, among whom nearly 3,000 wounded,
fiving themselves up. The rebel chief
aigo, \\'ith 50<) devoted followers, fought
his way out and escaped to Klagoshima.
Though much less beautiful than
the first half of the journey, the
second half from Nobeoka to Oita
is yet not devoid of interest. On
leaving Nobeoka, the road follows
up the Kitagawa from its mouth
until it becomes a tiny rill. The
Akamatsu-toge, 1,250 ft. above the
sea, is passed about 1 ri before
reaching
Shiureoka (poor accommodation).
The chief feature of the next day's
journey consists in the high passes
that have to be crossed — first the
Ono-ichi-toge, where a fierce battle
was fought during the Satsuma
406
Route 59. — Nagasaki to Kagosldma.
Rebellion, and the Miknni-tdge,
2,150 ft. hieh, so-called because
portions of the three provinces of
Hynga, Bnn^o, and Higo are
Tisible from the top. The view is a
very fine one.
On the top of the Miknni-tdge is the
irrave of the Daimyd of Mimizn, who,
daring the Rebellion, was surprised by the
Imperial troops in a mde fort which he
haa coDStmcted, and tc^ther with his
followers was captured and slain.
From the summit of the pass to
.Hijra-no-i(*lli {Inn, *Puji-ya) is
about 2 ri of constant ascents and
descents. Quitting this town, the
road at first passes along a fine
avenue of cryptomerias, and then
descends to meet the river Onagawa
at Ho8onaga, a small cluster of
houses. Travellers here usually
abandon the road, and engage a
boat for the rest of the way to T»U'
rusahi on the coast, whence by
jinrikisha to
oita. See p. 400.
The voyage down the river in-
cludes the shooting of a remark-
ably fine rapid.
If it be wished to shorten this
trip and yet retain the best part
of it, the boat journey from Hoso-
naga may stop at Ichiba, only an
hour or so down the river and
including the finest rapid, from
which place there is a road almost
due W. to Takeda, the distance
being about 7| ri.
ROUTE 59.
Fbom Naqasaki to Kaqokhtita.
volcano of sakuba-jika.
Kagoshima may be reached from
Nagaisaki by steamers leaving twice
weekly. Another route presenting
more variety, but occupying from
5 to 6 days, is as follows.
Itineraty,
NAGASAKI to :— Ei. Cho. Jf.
Mogi 2—5
Oni - no - ike, in
Amakusa (by
boat) 13 — 311
Hondo.. 3—71
Ota 5 — 12
Komenotsu, ( by
boat) 16 — 361
Affune 5 24 13f
Nishikata 3 12 7f
Mukoda 4 — lOi^
Ichiku, (Minato). 4 4 lOi
Ijuin 3 17 8i
KAGOSHIMA... 4 17 1(^
Total 63 2 153f
The land portion of this journey
is best performed on foot ; but pack-
horses can be taken from Hondo to
Ota, and from Kome^no-tsu to
Kagoshima. Jinrikishas can also
be got for the last 2 ri before
reaching Kagoshima.
An alternative way is to take
boat direct from Mogi to Agune,
passing the night, if necessary, at
Ushibuka at the S. end of Amakusa.
For the road to Mogfi, see p. 382.
Here a roomy boat should be en-
gaged for the passage to Oni-no-Ae
at the N. end of the island of
Amakusa, and arrangements should
be made for spending the night on
board. In fine weather the passage
across will be found very enjoyable,
there being beautiful views both
of Onsen-ga-take and the Nagasaki
peninsula. On the following morn-
ing the start is made by a fairly
Kagoshuna.
407
good road which skirfcs the shore
to th.e village of Oshima, and
then traverses highly cultivated
country to Hondo, Thence it con-
tinues in a southerly direction,
partly along the coast and partly
over liills, to the little fishing vil-
lage of Ota, where a boat must be
engaged for the passage to Konie-
i\o-t»u, (fair accommodation), a small
port at the mouth of a river
on the northern coast of Satsuma.
The road now strikes inland. From
the viU. of Fumoto, 1 ri f urf her, it
is lined for many miles with fine
<sryptomerias, and charming views
are obtained after it rejoins the
sea at
Ag^me (comfortable accommoda-
; tion). The road now passes up a
! narrow valley, having salt-pans
I fed by natural salt-springs among
I the rice-fields. The rest of the
way is up and down hill to
"SiihilcaJtat a small town prettily
situated on the shore. Here the
road again leaves the shore, and
passes over two steep hills into a
lovely valley. Sendai and Mukdd4i
are situated on opposite banks
of the Sendai-gawa. This neigh-
bourhood witnessed some fighting
during the rebellion. On the way
from Mukoda to Ichiku, a town on
the Gulf of Kagoshima, there is a
silver mine, just before Koshi-no-
Fumoto is passed. From Ichiku
the road lies on the inner side of
an embankment, and then rises
on to high ground commanding a
magnificent view of the volcano of
Sakura-jima. Tsuboya, a vill. of
Korean origin, lies a little way off
the main road. From Ijuin the
walk to Kagoshima is along a high
plateau, with a view extending
over a succession of fine mountains.
We descend steeply just before
entering the town of Kagoshima.
Kagoshima {Inns, Eakumei-
kwan, Banshd-tei ; Okabe-ya, near
the landing-place), capital of the
prefecture of the same name, stimds
on the W. shore of the tnost
southern g^ulf in Japan, opposite
the volcanic island of Sakura-jima*
Kagofihima, one of the most ancient
cities in Japan, was long the scat of the
Shimazu family, lords of Satsuma, Osmni,
and part of Hyfiga, and suzerains of Loo-
choo. It was a centre of great political
activity between the year 1854, when the
first treaty with the United States was con-
cluded, and the revolution of 1868, which
was in a great measure brought aboofr
by the energy and determination of the
Satsuma mea. On the 16th August, 18tf8»
it was 1x)mbarded by a British squadron,
of seven ships under Admiral Kuper, and
a large part of the town was burnt, in
conseciuence of the Prince of Satsum*
having refused satisfaction for the murder
of Richardson in 1862. Most of the forta
were dismantled, in spite of a typhoon,
which raged throughout the day ; but the
squadron also suffered considerably. The
captain and commander of the flagship
were killed on the bridge by a round shot,
and the total loss in killed and wounded
was 68. After the revolution, many of
the Satsuma leaders became dissatisfied
with the progressive policy of the Imperial
government, and their discontent culmi-
nated in 1877 in a rebellion, headed by
Saigd Takamori and others who had
fought by his side against the ShOgunate
and in favour of the restoration of the
Mikado to supreme power in 1868-9. Ife
was suppressed after some eight or mne
months warfare, and the town of Kago-
shima again fell a prey to the fiames. Sai-
gd himself foug[ht bravely on Shiroyama,
a long low hill just behind the town. The
cave where he submitted to decapitation
at the hand of a friend, who then com-
mitted suicide, is still shown, as also. the
hole in which the ^n^at reliel's head was
hidden, to prevent it froitli falling into the
hands of the enemy. The view from l^b»>
royama is very striking.
The peculiar kind of cloth com-
monly called Saiauma-jofu, sold at
Kagoshima, is manufactured in the
Loochoo Islands. It is made from
hemp bark worked into very fine
threads, and is costly, the price
ranging from 910 to $50 a tan,
which is about 11 yds.< English.
The manufacture of one tan is said
to occupy a woman of the islands
for more than a year. This cloth
is also known by the name of how.
Another kind of erass cloth, called
hathofu, also made in the Loochoo
Islands, is sold at Kagoshima^
This is woven from the bark of the
plantain, and used in summer by
the poorer classes.
408 Route 60, — From Kagoshima overland to lutmamoto.
Kagoshima is the seat of the
manufacture of the celebrated Sa-
tsnma crackled faience, the best
pieces of which were produced at
the Daimyo's cost. Potting is
carried on at Tanoura in the E.
suburb of the town, and at the in-
teresting vill. of Tsuboya where
live the descendants of a niunber of
Korean potters who were trans-
ported thither towards the end of
the 17th centiu^y at the time of
Hideyoshi's conquest of Korea.
The gardens of the former Princes
of Satsuma at Iso near Kagoshima
are famed for their beauty.
Sakiinvjinia is a day's excursion
from Kagoshima. Boat is taken to
the vill. of Kurokami on the E.
coast of the island, a highly pictur-
esque passage of 3 hrs. skirting
the S.' coast. At Kurokami a hot-
stream flows down, and there are
several other hot-springs on the
island. The crater of the volcano
is reached by a track through
long bamboo gi*ass and shrubs, the
summit of the mountain being
4,200 ft. high. The crater, whose
walls are very steep and wild-
looking ii 300 ft. or 400 ft. deep,
and the view one of great mag-
ficence. Immediately in front of
the spectator, to the W., lies the
town of Kagoshima ; on the S. E.
rises Kaimon-dake, and in the
opposite direction the two massive
peaks of the Kirishima range —
Takachiho on the r., and Karaku-
nimi-dake on the 1. Beyond, in
the distance, lie the mountains
of Hyuga, whUst below, on every
side, stretches the lovely bay of
Kagoshima dotted with islets.
Kagoshima has steam commimi-
cation with the Loochoo Islands
twice monthly, taking 2t} days to
make the passage ; with Osaka and
Kobe via Nagasaki, twice Weekly,
and direct about six times a month.
EOUTE 60.
«
From Kagoshima to Kuiishima-
YAMA, AND vid THE RaPIDS OF
THE KUMAGAWA TO KUMAMOTO.
The description of this route as
far as Hitoyoshi is chiefly compiled
from the diary of the Rev. Walter
Weston, who traversed the ground
in April, 1891. Those to whom
speed is the chief consideration-
may preferably take the wide jinri-
kisha road with brick-faced tunnels
which runs from Kagoshima to
Minamata and Sajiki, whence there-
is a good road, 3 W, to Tsuge on the
Kiunagawa, and thence by boat
down ithe rapids to Yatsushiro.
From Kagoshima to Kajiki is a
distance of 5 ri 6 did, or a little
over 12 m., practicable for jinriki-
shas. Thence onwards, the average
time occupied is given.
Kajiki to : — Howrs.
Yashiro (horseback) 5 — 6
Ascent of Takachiho (on
foot) 2.\ .
Takachiho to Enoyu (on
foot) 2\
Ascent of Karakiinimi-
dake (on foot) 22
Karakunimi-dake to Yo-
kogawa (on foot) 5 .V
Yokogawa to Yoshida
(horseback) 4^
Yoshida to Hitoyoshi (on
foot) 5
Hitoyoshi to Yatsushiro
(boat) 5 — 8
Yatsushiro to Kumamoto
(jinrikisha) 5
In starting from Kagoshima, the
traveller has the choice of the road
along the shore of the bay, or of
steamer direct to Kajiki.
Leaving the town by the N., the
road passes along the base of the
hills past Iso to Shingakuji, a
temple dedicated to the me-
mory of a son of a Prince of
Satsuma who was delivered up at
the end of the 16th centiuy, in
Ascott of Kirishima-yama.
409
expiation of the lonj^ resistance
offered by the House of Shijnazu
"to Hideyoshi. From
Knjiki (Inn^ Nezumi-ya; also a
new house at the landing-place),
t-hose not caring to aseend Kiri-
shinia may proceed direct to
Yosliida, a distance of 10 ri. A
j^old mine is being worked about
^6 i'i from Kajiki.
On. leaving Kajiki the road pass-
es through rugged and fantastic*
scenery, showing frequent evidence
of volcanic action. At a distance
of 2^ ri from Kajiki stands the
hamlet of Miyauchi, which takes
its name from a fine temple erect-
ed not long ago to Hachiman,
under the shade of a splendid
j ^rove of trees. Again wending
through interesting country, we
reach the Katsurazaka-toge, one
of the most beautiful passes in
Japan. In front rise the peaks of
Kirishima, — Takachiho whence is-
sue large volumes of steam, and
Karakunimi-dake, still higher but
at a greater distance. On the 1.
are the Satsuma hills, while behind
towers Sakiu*a-jima, with Kaimon-
4ake far beyond at the end ot the
peninsula. For some distance the
road passes along the plateau tlui.s
ii:ained,j,nd then descends to tlic
vill. of Okuho, whence it is 2 ri to
Yaslliro. also called Taguchi, or
Kirishima Onsen (Imiy Takenon«;hi).
The first of these names, which
means Shinto temple, is derived
IVom a handsome shrine standing
at the top of a flight of steps and
hidden amidst dense foliage. In
front of it, a path leads luider a
fine torii to a point on the moun-
tain side from which a grand view
is obtained in the direction of
Kagoshima Bay. Yashiro, which
is 1,500 ft. high, is the starting-
point for the ascent of
Takachiho-dake {HigasJd Kiri-
-ahima).
Pitjperly speakint?, the iiaine of Klri-
*hlmn should be confineil to this eastern
peak, the appellation of the western and
hij^her, hut less striking peak, Tieinir Kara-
kunimi-dake, which is so called from the
idea that it affords, a viov of China or
Korea (Kam). Kirishima is, however,
commonly used as a general name for the
whole range. This mountain is celebratCMl
in Japanese mythology as the peak on
whicli the god Ninigi, grandson of the
Sun-Goddess Amatenisu, alighted when
he came down from Heaven to pave the
way for the concjuest of Japan. Tl»e
celebi-ated ' Heavenly Sword ' on the sum-
mit of Takachiho is considered to be a
relic of this divinity.
On leaving the temple, the
path turns to the 1. straight
through the wood, and in 40 min.
reaches the upper edge of the
forest at an altitude of about'
2,250 ft. From this point the
peak of Takachiho is seen right
ahead, and as the ascent be-
comes less steep, good progress
is easily made. The path crosses
a track on the W. side of the peak,
and leads into the valley of the
Nojiri-gawa. At the summit of
the pass, the track turns to the r.,
and mounts by a zigzag path over
scoriae and ashes to the N.W. side
of the edge of the crater, which is
about l,5uO ft. in diameter, and per-
haps 30k) ft. deep. At the bottom
is a small lake, from which dense
clouds of steam mingled with
powerful fumes of sulphur come
rolling up with a loud roar. The
outlines of the crater lip are
strongly indented. Tlie actual sum-
mit of the mountain (5,530 ft.) is
higher up, and marked by a large
pile of stones, below which is a
rest-house. But the most interest-
ing object is the ' Heavenly Sword*
already referred to. The material
is bronze, the 8haj)e antique and
clumsy, the length about 4| ft.,
and the sword is fixed in the
ground hilt upwards. The view
from the summit is very extensive,
being similar to that from Kara-
kunimi-dake described below, but
more open towards the E. The
large lake far l^elow on the E. side
of the mountain is called Mi-ike.
The distance from base to sunuuit
is locally estimated at 2i ri.
410 Route 60, — From Kagoshima overland to Kumamoto,
While the ascent of Takachiho is
being made, the baggage should be
sent round to Enoyu. (inn, Yasuda-
ya), a long, straggling vill. consist-
ing chiefly of inns and bath-houses
for the use of those who come to
take tiie waters.
Karakiinimi-dake, the higher
or W. peak of Kirishima, may be
ascended from here, the distance
being locally estimated at 2^ rr,
but probably longer. Another plan,
perfectly feasible if an early start
be made from Yashiro and wea-
ther be fine, is to do both moun-
tains the same day, first Takachiho
and then Karakunimi-dake, des-
cending to Yokogawa, whither of
course the baggage will have been
sent on ahead. On the way up
Karakunimi-dake, the views of
Sakura-jima and other mountains
are magnificent. A good hour's
climb from Enoyu brings one to
the edge of a circular crater, not
steaming and sulphureous like
that of Takachiho, but calm and
clear, and containing a beautiful
lake of emerald green, from whose
margin rises a belt of fir-trees that
clothe the sides of the precipi-
tous inner wall to its highest
edge. This lake, called Onami-ike,
is about 1 ri in circumference,
whilst the height of the lowest
part of the crater lip is 4,680 ft.
The way to the summit of the
mountain leads through a dense
undergrowth of bamboo grass and
small trees before issuing out upon
soft turf. The grand view in-
cludes : to the S.E., the large crater
of Shimoi-take, then the summit
of Oi-take, and beyond, but tower-
ing far above them, the smoking
crater and sharp peak of Taka-
chiho; to the S., Shiraka-dake,
Sakura-jima in the Bay of Kago-
shima, and far away on the Pacific
shore, Kaimon-dake. Onami-ike
lies at the spectator's feet ; and on
the N.W., at a much lower eleva-
tion, is Shiratori-san, with two of
its three lakes distinctly visible.
The names of these lakes are
Murasaki, Byakushi, and Dok-
Kwannon. Tlie top of Karakxminii-
dake, 6,050 ft., forms the highest
point of an extinct crater, at the
bottom of which lies a mass of
slimy moss and weeds, as if a lake
had just dried up. This summit
is marked by a large cairn sur«
mounted by an iron trident. Look-
ing beyond Shiratori-san, a most
striking and extensive vieDv is pre-
sented of the mountains of central
Kyiishu, inclviding Aso-san and
Sobo-san.
The way down leads through
Yamanojo, one of the many mine-
ral bath-places in which- this vol-
canic neighbourhood abounds. The
main road is joined between Enoyu
and
Yokogawa (good accommoda*
tion). An hour's ride hence
through pretty country, partly
beside the rushing waters of the
Sendai-gawa, brings the traveller to
Kiirhio, lying in the centre of a
large plain laid out in rice-fields.
xOSIiida, situated on the Sendai-
gawa, affords good accommodation.
Leaving this town by ferry across
the river, the road leads for 1 hr.
up a steep ascent to the top of the-
ridge overlooking the plain water-
ed by the Sendairgawa, also called
the Masaki-gawa in its upper
course. The view from this point
is superb ; beyond the river
lies Yoshida, with the Kirishima-
group towering up behind ; slight-
ly to the 1. is Shiratori-san; in
the background, beyond an open-
ing in the hills through which
the Sendai-gawa flows, is Sakura-
jima ; and turning round, there is
a fine prospect of some of the moun-
tains of northern Kyiishii. From
this point the path moves along high
ground through a wood for 2A ri
until it reaches a tea-house, beyond
which another pathjbranches off in
the direction of Okaba, whence
there is a good jinrikisha road to
Hitoyoslii (imis, Togura-ya„
Boute 61. — To the Goto IslandSf Tsmhrna, etc.
411
Matsuri-tei), a thriving town, for-
merly the s^at of a Daimyo, the
ruins of whose castle still i*emain.
On the opposite side of the river
ia Mukaimachi, where boats may
be engaged for the voyage of 40
m. down the Knmagawa, celebrated
for its Ba^pids, most of which occur
during the la«t 25 miles. Under
(Ordinary circumstances the voyage
'will occupy about 6 hrs. Should
any difficulty be experienced in
obtaining boats at Mukaimachi,
tbe best plan is to push on to
Tauge, about 4 H down the valley,
^wbere also boats may be hired.
(For further details see p. 404.)
I^om Yatsushiro onwards the
road lies across the level plain of
Higo.
Kumamoto (see p. 401).
ROUTE 61.
!Fbom Nagasaki to thb Goto Is-
I.ANDS AND Tsushima ; to Fusan
AND Gensan in Korea, and to
Vladivostock in Sibebia.
A bi-monthly service is main-
tained by the tine steamers of the
Nippon Yusen Kwaisha to Vladivo-
stock, affording travellers an op-
portunity of visiting such outlying
parts of Japan as the Goto Islands
and Tsushima, besides the Korean
porta and the chief naval station
of Kussia in the Far East. The
steamers leaving Shanghai via Che-
foo and Chemulpo connect at Na-
gasaki with those from Kobe, which
latter stay for 2 days at Nagasaki.
The round trip from Kobe to Vla-
divostock occupies 24 days; from
Nagasaki, 17 days. Travellers
whose time is limited can go from
Nagasaki to Fusan (pronounced
Pusan by the Koreans), where a
stay of 3 days may be employed in
shooting, fishing, and visiting the
old Korean city which is within easy
reach of the Japanese Settlement,
and then returning to Nagasaki
by one of the Nippon Yusen Kwai-
sha's steamers. Those desirous
of having more time at Nag^asaki
can remain there for 24 hrs. long-
er, take passage by the Tientsin
steamer vik the Goto Islands and
Tsushima, and be landed at Fusan
in time to proceed to Vladivostock
or return tK> Nagasaki as desired.
The traveller wishing to proceed to
Vladivostock must obtain a pass-
port from his consul, such passport
to be vised by the Bujssian consul.
This latter formality is essential.
Fiikne (In?i, Shiozuka-ya), capi
tal of the island of the same name
the largest of the Goto group, is
about 50 m. distant from Naga-
saki. The steamer stays here 6
hrs., affording ample time to see
the remains of the old Daimyo's
castle and the garden which must
have been at one time very beauti-
ful. Near the town are some strik-
ing dome-shaped hills — extinct vol-
canoes now cultivated from base to
summit, and their craters filled with
shrubs and rank vegetation. Deer
and other game abound on this
and the other islands of the group ;
trout also are plentiful in tne
mountain streams.
Throujrh the untiring efforts of the
Roman Catholic missionarieB, workinj? in
a field well-sown by their predecessors in
the 16th and 17th ceutnrie*, the population
of the Goto Islands consists largely of
Christians.
Iziigalinra (Inn, Yoshida-ya), the
capital of Tsushima, about 100 m.
distant from Fukue, is charmingly
situated in a valley surrounded by
wooded hills, some of which are
about 1,200 feet high. Tsushi-
ma has an area of 262 £q.
miles, and is equi-distant from the
Japanese island of Iki and from
Korea, being 48 m. from each. At
high water it becomes a double is-
412
I^ute 61, — Fusan, Gensariy and Vladivostoch.
land, a deep sound dividing-it into
two unequal parts. The southern
portion is mountainous (2,100 ft.
high), the northern much lower.
Tm-ihima means * the island of the port,*
a name probably given from the fact of
this place, with its fine harbours, having
been from time immemorial the midway
halting-place for junks plying l^etween
.tapan and the mainland of Asia. Tsu-
i^hima is mentioned in the Kqjiki as one of
the Eight Great Islands of Japan, to which
Izanagi and Izanami gave birth at the
beginning of all things. In later days the
Daimyos of Tsushima served as inter-
mediaries in all international relations
between Japan and Korea.
• The Russians endeavoured to obtain a
footing in Tsushima in 1861, but were
soon obliged to abandon the attempt ;
and Tsushima remains, now as ever, part
and parcel of the Japanese dominion, in-
habited by a Japanese-speaking population
only slightly mixed with Korean blood.
The principal product of the is"
land is dried cuttle-fish {ilea), which
is held in high esteem by the Japa-
nese. The lovely scenery of
Tsushima ajad its bracing air
should make this spot a desirable
resort for invalids.
Quitting Tsushima, a run of 65
m. lands the traveller in
Flisan (good accommodation with
European food in the Japanese
settlements, near the south-eastern
tip of the Korean peninsula. The
chansre which this short dis-
tance effects in everything that
meets the eye is very marked.
The beautifully wooded hills and
ravines of Tsushima are replaced
by endless hills covered with
coarse grass and dwarf pines,
relieved here and there by huge
outcrops of bare rock. The dirty
white dress of the Koreans, their
squalid dwellings, their rude man-
ners and customs, all afford a strik-
ing contrast to what we have left
))ehind. The harbour of Fusan,
liowever, is pretty, and is sheltered
by a large island named by 'the
early navigators * Deer Island,' on
which deer and pheasants still
abound. The Japanese Settlement
of Fusan differs but little from
an ordinary Japanese town ; it con-
tains some creditable buildings,
and is well-situated for purposes of
trade. Its salubrious climate "will
in time no doubt attract noiany
visitors from. China during the
summer months.
Oensan, Yneiisati, or Wonsan,
as it is called by the Japanese,
Chinese and Koreans respec-
tively, is about 300 miles N". of
Fusan on the E. coast of Korea,
and is situated in Broughton Bay,
the inner part of which is weU-pro-
tected by islands. The surrounding
country resembles that around
Fusan, but is more open near
the sea, and the valleys are better
cultivated. A high range of moun-
tains extends from Gensaii, running
paralled to the coast in a southerly
direction for about 60 miles. In
the bold and rugged fastnesses
of these mountains, the tiger,
leopard, bear, and wild-cat roam
at will, the tiger being no
uncommon visitor in the Japanese
Settlement. The Japanese Hotel
in Gensan may be recommended.
Taking our departure from Gen-
san, a run of 370 m. to the N.E.
brings us to
VJadlTostock (Hotels, Golden
Horn ; Hotel Tessin, with Bussian
cuisine) . The harbour is very pretty,
as also is the town when seen from
the water. Vladivostock abounds
in charming walks and drives, and
possesses excellent boating and
deep-sea fishing. Game is plentiful,
and a river close by is well-stocked
with trout. The nights are always
cool and mosquitoes unknown.
SECTION VIII.
THE ISLAND OF YEZO,
(Routes 62 — 68.
Route 62, — Hakodate and Neighbourhood.
41^
ROUTE 62.
Hakodate and Neighbourhood.
»
1. general observations on yezo.
s. hakodate. 3. walks near
hakodate : yachigashira, the
peak, gortokaku.
1. — General Observations on
Y£zo.
No mention of Tezo is made in
the earlier historical records, and
it was probably unknown to the
Japanese until the period when
the last of the Ainos were expelled
&om their ancient homes in the
Main Island of Japan. Tradition
asserts that Yoshitsone, a favourite
hero of historical romance, found
refuge here from the unnatural
enmity of his elder brother ; and to
this day his memory is revered by
the simple aborigines. Later on
Yezo was colonised and partly
conquered by Takeda Nobuhiro, to
whose descendant, Matsumae To-
shihiro, the lordship of the island
iras granted in 1604 by leyasu.
JIatsumae's successors, whose seat
of government was at the town of
Matsumae, recently re-named Fu-
kuyama, continued to rule over the
"W. portion of the island down to
1868. From towards the end of the
18th century, the eastern half had,
with the exception of a break from
1820 ^to 1854, been administered
by officials of the Shogunate. After
the overthrow of the Tokugawa
family and the consequent media-
tisation of the Daimyoa, Yezo was
placed under a special department
of the new government, entitled
KaitaJcushi (Colonisation Commis-
aion), created ad hoc, and hence-
forth was regarded as apartof Japan
proper. It received the designa-
tion of Hokkaido, or * Circuit of
the Northern Sea,' and was divid-
' ed into nine provinces, in order to
assimilate it more closely to the
rest ot the Empire. Yezo had been
formerly resorted to by the Nor-
thern Japanese chiefly for the sake
of the fisheries ; but attempts were
now made to induce natives of
other parts of Japan to migrate
thither as agricultural settlers, and,,
with the aid of a number of Ameri-
cans, headed by General Capron,.
public works were commenced on an
extensive scale with the object of
developing the resources of the
island. After large sums had been
expended without any adequate
return, the more ambitious of
these schemes were abandoned in
1881. The Kaitakushi was dis-
solved, and the government of the
island assimilated to the prefec-
tural system of the rest of the
Empire. The present capital is
Sapporo, founded in 1870 ; the
chief ports are Hakodate, Mororan,.
Kushiro, and Nemuro on the S.E.
coast, and Otaru,. not far from
Sapporo, on the west. The interior
is still for the most part covered
with a primeval forest, rarely
penetrated except by the aborigi-
nal Ainos in quest of bears and
deer.
The characteristics of Yjbzo, both
natural and artificial, differ in
many ways from those of the Main
Island of Japan. The climate is
colder, the country newer, the
people less polished and more in-
dependent. Few if any old temples
or other historical monuments
exist; but there are interesting
remnants of the Aino race, which
once peopled not Yezo only, but a
great portion of Northern Japan.
In many places, too, relics of the
stone age, which for this island has
only recently passed away, are to
be met with. The Aino villages
most easy of access from Hakodate
are Yurappu and Osliamambe on
the shore of Volcano Bay, and Ho-
robetsu, Shiraoi, and Chitose on
the way from Mororan to Sapporo.
Zoologically, Yezo belongs to a
different sub-region from Japan
proper, the deep Straits of Tsugaru
416
JiimU 62. — Hakodate and Xeighbourhaod.
forming what is called ' Blakiston's
line/ from the name of Captain T.
W. Blakiston, R.A., whoee re-
searches are weD-known to 8eien(».
On the Yezo side of this line there
are no pheasants and no monkeys,
while there is a species of grouse ;
the bears are of a different species
from those found on the Main Is-
land. There are numeroos other
divergences both in the fauna and
flora, adding their testimony to the
fact that Yczo and the Main Island,
though so close to each other, have
been separated during long geologi-
cal ages.
The chief productions are her-
rings, salmon, iicashi, sea-ears, and
above all konibu (or JLo&u), a broad,
thick, and very long species of sea-
weed, a great favourite with the
co<:)ks not only of Japan but of China,
to which latter count i-y large quan-
tities are exported.
There are comprtratively few
good roads, the inns are often far
apart, and jinrikishas and carriages
used only in a few districts. Most
journeys are performed in the
saddle, horses being veiy niwierous,
though not particularly good or
cheap. In 1891 the usual cliarge
waa from ] 2 to 20 sen a ri.
For six months Yezo is under
snow and ice, the snow averaging
about 2 ft. at Hako<late and
from 6 ft. to 8 ft. in the N. and W,
of the island. The lowest reading
of the thermometer at Hakodate
during the past ten years has been
5°.5 Fahrenheit. On the other hand,
the second half of July and the
first half of August are intensely
hot, mosquitoes are very trouble-
some, and there is an additional
pest of gad-flies (ahu), whose at-
tacks are so violent that it is
necessary to keep lx)th face and
hands well-protected when riding
about the country. The best time
for visiting Yezo is from the middle
of May to the middle of July, and
from the beginning of September
to the beginning of November.
The aceneiyof the island, tiiough
less striking than that of Japan
proper, has a charm of its own and.
a certain resemblance to 'Natth.
Central Europe. There is good
Ralmon fishing in several places in
the month of Jnn& There is snipe
and duck shooting in the autumn,
with occasionally a bear for sb
change — ^not the brown bear of the
Main Island, but a larger species
resembling the grizzly.
The Japanese inhabitants of Teso
are a mixed community, beinfr
chiefly settlers from one or other
of the Northern provinces.. The
consequence is that there is no
special local dialect, but only a
general use of various Northern
patois. The traveller who is ac-
quainted with the Japanese lan-
guage as spoken at Tokyo, will do
well to remember that t is constantly
changed into t4, and is sometimes
dropped altogether. Thus, when
he hears matsu and mizu (almost
ntdz)^ he must understand nuichi
and mu^hi. AVt r*" (almost »* t')
means nx ri, two n. In fact, the
Northern people seem to try
to speak without opening their
mouths.
2.— Hakodate.
Hakodate.
Inns. — Kaku jo, Chigai - sangi,
Kito.
Restaurants. — Goto-ken, in Sae>
hiro-cho, where plain European
food mav be obtainecl ; also at the
Kyodo-kwan in the Public Gardens,
where passable accommodation for
the night may lu* had.
Stwes. — Kanemori, Ima-Ichi, Ya-
ma-San, and Kane-Ni, all in the
Main Street.
The town clusters at the foot
of the bold rock, often compared
to Gibraltar and known to for-
eigners as Hakodate Head, whose
summit locally called the Peak,
is 1,157 feet high. Amo»g the
largest buildings are the Japanese
Club, Public HaU, and Naval
Walks in the Vicinity »
41 T
School. The number of foreign
residents is small — some 15 families
— and the town, notwithstanding its
growing size and prosperity, is of
little account as a port for foreign
trade. At the west end of the town
is a fort recently dismantled. In
1889 water-works were construct-
ed, Hakodate being the second
town in the Empire to have water
supplied in this manner. The
"water is convened in iron pipes
from the river Akagawa, 7 m.
distant among the mountains.
There is regular communication
with Yokohama thi*ee times a week
l>y the Nippon Yvisen Kwaisha
Steamers. Occasionally steamers
run down the West Coast to Akita
and Niigata. There is also regular
communication with the other ports
of Yezo, namelj' Otaru which is the
terminus for the Sapporo railway,
Kushiro, Nemuro, etc., and also
with Aomori on the Main Island.
The chief exports are edible sea-
weed (komhu), b^che-de-mer, dried
fish of various sorts, fish-manure
{nishin no kasii)^ etc.
3. — Walks near Hakodate. ,
To the Public Gardens and Ya-
chigashira. The Public Gardens,
which are on the E. outskirts of the
town, contain a small but interest-
ing Museum (Hakuhutsvjo), Where
may be seen numerous zoological
specimens, including a large col-
kction of Japanese birds presented
by Mr. T. W. Blakiston, a collec-
tion of shells brought together by
Prof. Morse, specimens of Aino
work and of the natural products
of Yezo, etc., and lelics of the
stone age. Yachigashira (often
mispronounced Yatsugashira) is
the name of a picturesque dell
l3ring beyond the Public Gardens.
Besides being a pleasant walk, it
offers the attraction of a charm-
ing restavirant called Asada-ya,
situated in its own grounds and
commanding a good view. The
Shinto temple of Hachiman is also
prettily placed on the hill-side.
The village on the near sea-shore
which is seen from here is Shiri-
sawabe, passing through which a
walk of about ^ m. may be taken
to a spot known to foreigners as
* East Point/ just at the back of
which there is a curious arched
rock.
Up the Peak, which takes about
i hr. from the end of the town.
There are numerous narrow paths
leading to the summit, whence an
extensive view is obtained, em-
bracing S. E. Shiokubi, distant
13 m. (Cape Blunt on the charts),
and the volcano of Esan beyond,
bearing E. by N., 221 ^^' l^yiiig
nearly N. rise Yorozu-yama, 12 m.,
and next the volcano of Koma-ga^
take, 22 m. ; Nanae, Arikawa, etc.,
are across the bay. Also across the
bay to the W. lies Moheji, a pretty
village with a small river running
through it, and a lighthouse stand-
ing on a prominent rock, N. W. of
the Peak. Distant 28 m. is the
mountain called Nigorigawa-yama.
Behind Moheji, distant 13 m., is
Kai-asuka-dake, while to the S. W.
rises Shiriuchi-dake, 22 m. The
high land on the other side of the-
straits is plainly visible, and on a
clear day Iwaki-san to the S. W.
of Aomori may be distinctly seen.
In the opposite direction, name-
ly turning out of the main street
to the right, a walk or ride may be
taken past the gaol and barracks
to a fort called Goi-ybkaku. This
disused fort, erected in the latter
days of the Tokugawa regime, is
about 4 m. from the town. The
moat affords excellent skating, tho
ice being planed and swept; and
when it is about 12 inches thick, it
is cut and exported to the southern
ports.
418
Tioiite 63. — Excursions from Hakodate.
ROUTE 68.
Excursions from Hakodate.
yunokawa. the lakes. ascent op
koma-ga-take. esan.
1. — yunokawa.
Distance 1 ri 2% cho (4i m.) on
foot, in jinrikisha, or omnibus, the
latter starting several times daily
during the summer. Ynnokawa is
a charming place at which to
spend a few days, owing to its
pure sea air, its hot-springs, and
the pretty walks in the neighbour-
hood, especially one to Ynnosawa,
less than a ri inland. The best
inns are Senshin-kwan, Yosei-
kwan, and Kakudai.
2.— -The Lakes.
Distance 1 ri^ckd (17 m.), passing
through Nanae which ia 4 ri from
Hakodate.
The favourite holiday resort in
the neighbourhood of Hakodate is
that known to foreigners as 'the
Lakes.' The two principal lakes
are named respectively Junsai-nu-
ma (or Konuma), and Cnuma. They
lie nearly 20 m. from Hakodate,
and not far from the base of the
volcano of Koma-ga-take. Their
shores are covered with luxuriant
▼eget-ation> while the islets furnish
objective points for those who may
wish to go out boating. The lake
fish can be taken with a worm, but
will not rise to the fly. Konuma
contains prawns of a very delicate
flavour. Junsai-numa takes its
name from a species of lily iJLimnan'
ihemum peltatuw), which is con-
sidered a delicacy and brought in
great quantities to Hakodate. No
place in Yezo affords so good a
field to the entomologist, especially
if lepidoptera be the object of his
«earch.
The Lakes may be reached on
horseback or by carriage. The
usi^tl charge for horses was, in the
«ammer of 1890, from $1.50 to 93,
and for native carriages about 95.
The drive to the hamlet of Junsai-
mura on the bordei*s of Junsai-
numa, where it is best to stay,
takes from 3^ to 4 hrs. The first
portion of the road, which is also
the high road to Mori, and whieh.
was constructed by American engi-
neers, lies along the flat that skirts
the bay. The only halting-plaoe
worthy of mention is at
Nanae.
Originally Btarted by a Mr. Gartoor,
to whom a large tract of ground had
been granted in 1868 by the rebel govern-
ment of Ye^, this experimental farm was
purchased by the ^itaknshi, who im-
ported and bred foreign cattle, sheep*
horses, etc., raised European and Ameri-
can farm-produce, vegetables, and flowers,
and introduced the cultivation of foreign
grapes for the purpose of making wine.
While the horses are resting, a
walk may be taken through the
gardens. Three miles beyond Na-
nae the ground rises, and it be-
comes necessary to alight from
the carriage. Pretty glimpses of
the Hakodate Peak and of the
mountains of the mainland are
occasionally obtained ; and from a
little point just off the road close
to the summit, the Lakes are first
caught sight of. The summit of
the hill is 940 ft. above the levd
of the sea.
At Jnnsai-mnra there are twe
inns, both on the 1. side of the
road. The first one, situated im-
mediately at the foot of the hill
and kept by Miyazaki Jubei, is most
patronised by the drivers ; but the
semi-European one further ozi»
known by the sign of Maru-san, ia
the better of the two. Travellers
will of course bring their own pro-
visions; but fair Japanese food and
also foreign potatoes can be ob-
tained. Primitive boats for goine
out on the lake and equally primi-
tive fishing-gear can be hired. It
is a 10 min. walk hence through
a pretty wood to the shores of
Lake 5numa. A good view of
Koma-ga-take is obtained front
The Lakes. Koma-ga-take mid Emn.
419
Jnnsai-nunm. If the traveller has
only one day at his disposal, the
pleasantest plan is to start early
in. the morning, lunch at the inn,-
i;1ien stroll over to Onuma, and
retam to Hakodate in the cool of
^th.e evening.
3. — Ascent of the Voloano Koma-
ga-take.
Itinerary.
HAKODATE to :— Ri, Chd. M.
Togeshita 5 5 12^
Shikonoppe (a little
way on) — ^ —
YAKEYAMA 3 18 &h
Total 8 23 21
This is the mountain whose sharp
peak (in reality only the higher
«ide of the wall of the crater)
.forms so conspicuous an object
from Hakodate. It lies nearly due
N. of the town, and is reached by
i;be road mentioned in Excursion
2. The two trips should be com-
bined, the night being spent at
J'unsai-mura. Accommodation of
an inferior quality may be procured
a little further on, at Shikonoppe,
and also at Yakeyama at the very
"base of the moimtain. From Jun-
sai-mura, the expedition can easily
be made in 6 hrs., including stop-
pages, and many will prefer to
make it at night in order to see
the sunrise from the summit. For
this purpose the carriage brought
from Hakodate should he kept, so
as to drive on as far as Yakeyama,
i hr. of uninteresting road. Here
horses are mounted which, toge-
ther with a guide, should be sent
on ahead, and 1 hr. ride through
a thick gprowth of underwood and
of grasses that overtop the riders'
heads, lead^ to the place where it
is necessary fo dismount. It is
another hour's walk over sand and
volcanic detritus to the lip of the
crater, which commands a fine
view of Volcano Bay on the one
hand, and on the other of the Lakes,
behind which Hakodate Bay and
even the town and shipping can
be distinguished. To the 1. towers
the wall of rock forming what
looks like a peak from most points
of view. The ascent of it is not
impossible, but has rarely heen
attempted. Traces of vegetation
are found up to the very summit*
On the way up there is a little
platform, said to be inaccessible,,
which supports three curiously
shaped stones popularly supposed
to have been once the abode of a
fahvlouB inonkey (ycLeri) . Beneath
and in front of the spectator lies
the crater. To the r. is seen'
Yokotsu-dake, itself an old volcano,
whose height is estimated at 3,800
ft. The last eruption of Koma-ga-
take took place on the 22nd August,
1856, when all the neighbourhood
of the present hamlet of Yakeyama
(lit. 'burning mountain') is said
to have been denuded of trees.
Inside the crater a certain degree
of activity is still displayed in the
boiling pools; and care must be
taken in treading on all circles or
ridges of ground which rise slight-
ly above the general level, as they
are hollow and may give way.
The descent to the place where the
horses are waiting only occupies a
few minutes. The height of Koma-
ga-take is 3,86a ft. There is no
water on the way up.
4.— The Volcano op Esan.
Itinerary.
HAKODATE to :—- Ri. Chd. M.
Yunokawa 1 29 -H
Oyase 3 6 7i
Toi 2 11 6f
Shirikishinai 2 14 5f
Nidanai 4 27 Hi
TODOHOKKE
(footof Esan).. 19 3
Total 15 23 38^
420
Route 64. — From Hakodate to Fnlmyama,
This constantly active volcano,
between 1 ,900 ft. and 2,000 ft. high,
is the first point of the Island of
Yezo sighted on the voyage up
from Yokohama. The journey thi-
ther from Hakodate may be per-
formed on horseback in one day ;
but it is better to allow 3 days for
the whole expedition there and
back. If four are allowed, the
following pleasant round trip may
be made : — first to tlie Lakes and
Koma-ga-take, and thence to Ka-
kumi on the S. shore of Volcano
Bay, where arrangements should
at once be made for a boat to
convey the part^' next day along
the coast to Todohokke.
The coast is bold and afifords
striking views, some water-falls
which leap over rocky ledges
into the sea being especially beau-
tiful. At Todohokke where there
is an inn of the usual country type,
a guide should be procured to lead
the party up the mountain, the
summit of which will be reached
after an hour's walk. The S. side
of the crater-wall, by which the
ascent is made, has been com-
pletely blown away; the floor
seethes with solfataras and springs
of boiling water, and there are con-
stant subterranean rumblings. The
upper portion of the waU of the
crater is of a bright yellow colour,
and emits dense whitish fumes.
ROUTE 64.
From Hakodate to Fukuyama by
Sea and back by Land.
Itinerary of Land Jowney.
FUKUYAMA to :— Ri. Cho. M.
Yoshioka 3 25 9
Fukushima 1 9 ^
Shiriuchi 7 17
Kikonai 2 24 6.^
Izumisawa 1 34 4^
Moheji 3 2 1\
Kami-iso 2 15 6
HAKODATE 3 4 7.\
Total 25 5 61i
The quickest way to Fukuyama
is by steamer, tlie passage occupying-
from 6 to 7 hrs. The other way is
overland, a distance of 25 ri, which
can be accomplished on horseback
in 2 days. It is pleasantest to
combine both routes, going one
way and returning the other. If
the land journey be done from
Hakodate, there is the advantage
of being able to make sure of gootl
horses, which by special arrange^
ment may be taken through all
the way. On the other hand, by
taking the steamer from Hakodate
and returning by land, the risk of
being steamer-bound at Fukuyama
is avoided. Walking is not to be
recommended, as . there are num-
bers of streams to ford.
Fiikiiyamai* formerly called Ma-
tsvmae. *(I«?i,Tanaka-ya; passengers
arriving by the steamer can put
up at the funa'y(vdOy or ' boat-house,'
known by the name of Maini'hanr
which is pleasanter than the inn ;
those who intend to stay more
than one day arc recommended to
ari*ange for accommodation at the
Sato-ya, a clean, quiet, and prettily
situated restaurant, standing on
the hill behind the ^ town, not far
from the castle and commanding a
good view of the sea). Fukuyama
is situated on the coast to the S.W.
Ftikiiyama bach to Hakodate,
421
of Hakodate. The population in
1890 -was about 10,000, showing
a decrease of no less than 40 per
cent since 1868.
As long as the city was the seat
of the lords of Matsninae, almost
all tlie trade of Yezo passed
tliroxigh it, and travellers were
obliged to come here to obtain
passports before proceeding to
otlier points. But a fatal blow
"was dealt to its prosperity by the
destruction of property which ac-
companied the civil war in 1869, and
by tbe retirement of the DaimyS to
*r6kyo when the feudal system was
broken up. It has been further
injured by the growth of Hakodate
. — ^f or Fukuyama possesses no har-
bour, but only an open roadstead.
As usual in provincial Jai)anese
capitals, the castle was built on an
eminence overlooking the town.
All that now remains, besides the
three-storied tower, is a portion of
the apartments f oi*merly occupied
by the Daimyo himself. In 1880
the greater part of the area former-
ly occupied by the castle was con-
verted into a small Public Garden.
Outside of this garden, as well as
of the former precincts of the
castle, is a cluster of Buddhist
temples, the remnant of a larger
number which existed up to 1869.
These were the finest temples in
Yezo. Only two are now worth
visiting, viz. Kozenji belonging to
the Jodo sect, and Ryu-un-in be-
longing to the Soto sect, which
latter has been the leading de-
nomination in this district. Ko-
zenji, which was founded in 1533,
was the burial-place of the Dai-
myos' consorts, and is remarkably
handsome. In the court in front
of it stands a large stone image,
formerly the principal object of
worship in a temple now destroyed,
which was called after it Sekibu-
tsu-do, i.e., * the Hall of the Stone
Buddha.' Eyu-un-in, which was
founded in 1625, has a curious
kakemono of 'Shaka Issuing from
the Mountains.'
The return journey on horseback
is a pleasant one. The traveller
should take his own saddle, though
he may generally count on being
able to borrow one at Fukuyama
for the through journey. His ser-
vant will mount the baggaare-horse,
and the guide is also mounted.
Horses may be taken through the
whole way ; but there is no diffi-
culty in obtaining relays at Shiri-
uchi, where a halt should be made
for the night. Leaving Fukuyama,
the road passes through the ham-
lets of Nemori and Osawa, the islet
of Benten-jima and the island of
Kojima being seen to the r., while
on the 1. are views, not only of
Yezo, but of the coast of the Main
Island. At the hamlet of Araya
the road strikes inland among the
beautifully green though treeless
hills, and the road soon begins to
ascend. From the summit a pretty
view of Kojima is obtained.
The steep descent to the hamlet
of Eehige is called the Toshioka-
toge — YosMoTca being the general
name for the surrounding hamlets
— and it is necessary to dismount.
The bottom of this hill is 1 H from
Fukuyama. Thence the path lies
alon^ the beach, commanding good
views of the sea and distant shores.
Cape Yoshimo standing out con-
spicuously to the 1. It is a short
2 ri to the vill. of
Fiikiisliiina. On leaving this
place, the path again strikes
inland for many miles among the
hills, wliich are here wooded ; but
there is a beautiful glimpse of
the sea with Iwaki-san in Nambu
from the top of the Fukushima-
toge, la hr. beyond Fukushima.
For the most part the way lies over
a sort of upland broken by gullies,
the streams flowing through which
have almost all to be forded. The
largest of these streams is that
named (or nicknamed) Ichi-no-
Watari-gawa, i.e., * the River of the
422
Route 65. — From Hakodate to Esashi.
First Crossing/ To the r. is oc-
casionally seen Sengen-dake, the
highest motintain in this Yicinitj.
At
Sbiriiiclii, regular cultivation be-
gins and the rc^ improves. Most
of the rest of the way to Hakodate
is flat, and runs aJong the sea-
shore. Accommodation is procur-
able at the various villages through
which the road leadsl After passing
through Kikonai, the Treaty Limit
of the port of Hakodate is reach-
ed. A portion of the way lying
through the jurisdiction of the
vill. of Moheji is admired for the
boldness of its scenery. Bluff sand-
stone cliffs rise abruptly from the
sea, and at a little distance it
looks as if there would not be room
to pass between the rocks and the
water. The path joins the main
road leading to Mori 1 ri out of
Hakodate.
EOUTE 65.
From Hakodate to Esashi.
Itinerary.
HAKODATE to .— Ri. Chd. M.
Kameda 1 — 2^
Ono 4 — 9|
Uzura 10 — 24^
Gamushi 2 — 5
ESASHI 3 — 7i
Total 20 — 48f
The above distances are approx-
imate.
Starting from Hakodate and
passing through Kameda on the
road to Nanae, the traveller turns
off to the 1. along a new road to
Ono (Inns, Kakudai, Shinagawa).
At the end of the village the roads
turns abruptly off to the 1., and
gradually ascends for a distance of
4 ri till the top of the pass is |
gained. From the summit a good
view of Tengu-take, marked by-
three fir-trees, is obtained, and the
ride to the village of Uzura is one
of the prettiest in Tezo. The road
winds in and out between steep
cliffs above a foaming river, while
the bold rocks and mountains recall
the scenery of British Columbia.
At
Uzura, poor accommodation is
provided at the house of Nagao
Jutaro, but it is better to push on
to Esashi.
[From Uzura a path diverges to
the 1. across a river to the
village of Tate, 2^ ri distant,
once the residence of the Dai-
myo of Matsumae. The castle
was destroyed in the rebellion
of 1868, but portions of the
walls can still be traced. The
land in this district is among
the most fertile in Yezo.]
Gamashi (Inn by Oyama Ta-
sato).
Esashi (Inns, Yamabuki Seizo,
Kakui) is an old-fashioned town of
14,000 inhabitants, with a harbour
unfortunately too much exposed.
Pine views can be obtained from
the high cliffs behind a Buddhist
temple. Esashi boasts a light-
house, a hospital, and a telegraph
and other government offices.
Koads are in course of construction
from this place northwards to Shioji
and southwards to Fukuyama.
Boitte 66. — To Sapporo and Volcano Bay,
42S
ROUTE 66.
From Hakodate to Sappobo and
Volcano Bay.
voyage to otaru. [yoichi and
I wanai ; ACROSS country to mom-
BETSU ON VOLCANO BAY.] SAP-
PORO. EXCURSIONS FROM SAP-
PORO : PORONAI, HOKKYO, LAKE
CHITOSE. OVERLAND TO MORORAN.
[VOLCANO BAY.] MORI.
Tliis trip includes some of the
best portions of Yezo, and will show
the traveller within the limits of a
week or 10 days as fair a specimen
of the island — its scenery, its
modern improvements, and aborigi-
nal Ainos — as it is possible to com-
press witliin so short a time.
A fairly good steamer of the
Nippon Yusen Kwaisha leaves
Hakodate for Otaru every fourth
day, the passage taking 22 hrs. in
fine weather. Occasionally an out-
side steamer may be availed of.
While passing through the Tsu-
garu Straits, where the main cur-
rent always runs towards the E.,
the steamer hugs the cliff-bound
coast of southern Yezo. Pour hrs.
from Hakodate it passes the castle-
town of Fukuyama, formerly called
Matsumae, for centuries the resi-
dence of the Daimyos by whom the
island was ruled. Ahead are seen
the volcanic islands of Oshima and
Kojima, and to the S., on thi^
mainkind of Japan, Iwaki-san,
often called the Northern Fuji
from its beautiful logarithmic cur-
vatm*e. If the steamer leaves
Hakodate at midday (the usual
hour of sailing), it will pass the
island of Okushiri before night-
fall, and by morning will have
rounded the high cliffs of Shakotan,
and have passed * Sail Rock ' and
the shrine on the cliff to which
junks make obeisance by lowering
their sail. From this point it is
35 m. to
Otarn, properly Otariinai (Inns,
Etchn-ya^ Kito). This Aino name
means 'the stream (nai) of the
sandy (ota) road (ru).' The town
is now, however, entirely Japanese.
Next to Hakodate it is the largest
and most bustling on the coast, the
chief industry of its inhabitants
being herring - fishing ( nishin ).
The only evidences of the former
Aino occupation of the place are
the flint implements and fragments
of pottery imbedded in the soil,
and possibly some scribbling on
a rock in a suburb called Temiya.
This rock has terribly perplexed the
learned. To begin with, are the inscrip-
tions really inscriptions at all ? If so, are
they of Aino origin — but then it is almost
certain that the Ainos never knew aught
of writing? Or are they not rather
cognate to * Bill Stumps liis mark * ? A.
few years ago the authorities caused a
shed to be erected over the rock in ques-
tion, but not till the weather liad exercised
so disintegrating an influence on it that
there is now little left to argue about.
[There is a fair road from Otaru
W. along the coast to Tolclli,
5 ri 20 cho, whence a very
pretty mountain road leads
across the neck of the penin-
sula to IwaDai, 11 W 30 cho.
From Iwanai a very rough
road leads right round the
S. W. of the island to Hakodate.
It is also possible, from a point
between Yoichi and Iwanai,
and about 3 ri from the latter
place, to strike off in a S.E.
direction across country to
Moiiibetsn on Volcano Bay.
The distance is 14 ri, and
takes 2 days, tke first night
being spent at a farm-house
at Sliiribetsn. The trail is
extremely rough, following
water-courses, and passing
through bamboo-grass and
weeds often as high as the
traveller's head as he sits on
horseback. Mount Shiribetsu
is a beautiful isolated cone
from 6,000 ft. to 7,000 ft. high.
Lake Usu, likewise, along
whose shore the path runs for
several ri, is very pretty.
Mombetsu has a beet -root
424
Route 66. — To Sapporo and Volcano Bay.
sugar factory, capable of turn-
ing out 75 tons per diem.]
Hokkaido Railway.
Distance
Names
from
of
Otani.
Stations.
OTARU (Temija).
2 m.
Sumiyoshi.
6
Asari.
11
Zenibako.
IG
Kanismwa.
20
Kotoni. '
22
SAPPORO.
26
Shiraishi.
29
Atsuhetsu.
34
Nopporo.
36
El)etsu.
41
HOROMUI (Poronai).
48
Iwamizawa.
54*
NAIFUTO.
The railway journey from Otaru
to Sapporo occupies about 2 brs.
The rolling stock is American,
and the line is said to have been
built more cheaply than any other
in the world. The scenery is very
pretty for the first few miles, the
railway being hemmed in between
the sea and bold overhanging rocks,
and affording beautiful views of
the coast. The plain surrounding
the mouth of the river Ishikari is
then crossed, and the rest of the
way runs across flat, marshy coun-
try, covered with trees and tall rank
weeds, to Sapporo.
Sapporo {Hotel, *Hohei-kwan,
originally intended for an Imperial
Palace; Japanese innsy Yoshida,
Tamagata-ya, Kyoka-ro), the capi-
tal of the island, did not grow up
naturally like Majtsumae in old
times and Hakodate in more re-
cent days, in obedience to the
requirements of trade. It was
created by official fiat during the
present reign, and depends for
its prosperity chiefly on the public
institutions established there, nota-
bly on the Agricultiu'al College
which is the last remnant of the
Xaitakushi, or Colonisation Com-
mission, and on the Military Colony
(Tonden-hei) in the neighbouring
country. The Prefecture, a build-
ing in European style, will vie with
anything of the kind in Tokyo.
There are also saw-mills and flour-
mills, sugar, hemp, and flax fac-
tories, a brcTvery, an estabhsh-
ment for making wine, and a
museum well-worth visiting, be-
sides small theatres and other
places of amusement. The salmon
and trout fishing for which Sap-
poro was formerly noted has been
a good deal spoilt by the estabUsh-
ment of the mills, but there is snipe
and duck shooting in the autumn.
The pleiasantest walks near Sap-
poro are : —
1. To the horse-farm of Mako-
nomm.
2. To the top of Masuyama,
whence there is a fine view of the^
plain surrounding Sapporo and of
the River Ishikari, the longest in
Japan .
The best longer excursions are:—
3. On foot or by jinrikislia to
Kariki, distant about 1 iH. There
take a dug-out canoe, and drift
down to Ehetsu, spinning or fly-
fishing on the way. Return in the
afternoon by train.
4. By train to Poronai, to see
the coal-mines and the convict
prison. The convicts are em-
ployed in the mines, the daily
output being from 600 to 1,000 tons.
Those desirous of visiting the site
of the much-talked of new capital
— Hohky 6— mory reach it by carri-
ase, 23 ri to Kamikawa on the river
Ishikari, 140 m. from its mouth.
5. On horseback or by jinrikisha
or carriage past the Makonomai
horse farm, through Ishiyamaon
the river Toyohira to Jodankr
where there are hot-springs and
good fishing. Distance 6 H.
6. To a lake 7 W from Chitose, the
last ri by Aino boat up a river which
threads the primeval forest. There
is a beautiful waterfall on the way,
unfortunately much hidden by the
denseness of the vesretation. The
Sapporo to Mororan. Volcano Bay.
421^
lake itself is completely surrounded
by liigh wooded hills except on one
side, Tvhere there is a bare volcano.
Th.e flies are a terrible scourge.
From Sapporo to Mororan on
Volcano Bay is a 2 days' journey
in a four-wheeled covered waggon,
holding two persons and costing
(in. 1890) $4 per head. A relay may
be obtained at Tomakomai, where
the flrst night should be spent.
Itinerary.
SAPPOEO to :— Ri. Cho. M.
Shimamappu 5 28 14
Chitose 3 34 9^
Tomakomai 6 34 17
Shiraoi 5 22 13f
Horobetsu 6 30 i6f
Mororan 5 1 12^
Mori (by steamer
in 3 hrs.) — — —
Nanae 7 10 I7f
HAKODATE 4 8 lOi
Total 46 23 111^
The greater part of the excellent
road from Sapporo to the coast is
flat and nearly straight, lying
through a dense forest completely
shutting out the view on either side.
During the summer, this region is
frequented by the gad-fly and the
locust, the former of which is a per-
fect plague to the traveller, while
the horses are tormented by ticks.
Just before
Tomakomai {Inn, Kane-su), the
road emerges on the Pacific shore,
ajid turns to the r.
£The road to the 1. leads along
the coast to Yubutsu and Saru-
f uto, inland from which latter
place is Piratori, the largest
settlement of the southern
Ainos. A good description of
this interesting village and of
the way there is given in Miss
Bird's 'Unbeaten Tracks in
Japan,' Vol. II.]
From here onwards there are occa-
sional hills, and the scenery im-
proves, especially between Shiraoi
and Horobetsu, where the top of
an ascent commands a charming
view of the secluded bay of Bam-
bokke. The wealth of lilies of the
valley and other wild-flowers in
May and June is astonishing. 'A
few miles inland is Nohot'ihetsut cele-
brated for its natural hot baths.
Horobetsu (Inn, Suzuki) is a
mixed Japanese and Aino village,
the centre for many years past
of the Christianising and civilising
endeavours of the Rev. John
Batchelor, of the Church Mis-
sionary Society.
Mororan (Inns, Maru-ichi, TJba-
go) is beautifully situated on a
landlocked bay, but is shut out
from all view of the neighbouring
volcanoes. It is noted for a large
sea-shell — the hotate-gai, or Peden
yessoensis. Behind the hill at the
back lies an Aino village.
[The traveller who does not mind
bad roads and very poor ac-
commodation may, instead of
the steamer, take the coast route
round the head of Volcano Bay.
The track lies mostly along
the shore, except where in two
places it climbs to a consider-
able height among the moun-
tains. Several Aino villages ex-
ist in this secluded region. The
1)est are at Usu and at Abuta.
An account of this route will be
found in Miss Bird's already
quoted book of travels. The
itinerary is as follows : —
SHIN-MOROEAN to :—
Ri. Cho. M.
Kyu-Mororan 6 22 16i
Mombetsu... 3 13 8^:
Abuta 4 7 lOi
Rebunge 4 4 10
Oshamambe.. 6 33 17-
Kuroiwa 4 31 llf
Yamakushinai 4 10 lOi
• Otoshibe 2 24 6^
MORI 4 6 lOi
Total.... 41 6 lOOi]
486
Route €/• — Tlie S*E. Coast and Southern Kuriles,
The distance accomplished by
steamer from Mororan to Mori
across the month of Volcano Bay
is aboat 22 miles. The anchorage
at
Hori (Inns, Yamaka, Kawa-jii) is
not good. Nevertheless the town is
fairly prosperous. The return
hence to Hakodate is via the Lakes
(see p. 418).
ROUTE 67.
The South-East Coast and the
Southern Kuriles.
During the summer and autiunn,
the Nippon Yusen Kwaisha runs
steamers up the S.E. Coast of Yezo,
and there are also steamers be-
longing to smaller companies. Oc-
casional steam communication is
kept up with Kunashiri and Iterup.
Continual fogs are exi)erienced.
Those who prefer to go by land can
do so ; but they are warned that
there is little of interest to com-
pensate for the hardships on the
way. In many places it is a
scramble over rocks by the sea-
shore, and at others over steep
mountains. There are also six or
seven large rivers to cross, which
after rain are often impassable for
several days. The itinerary be-
tween Hakodate and Tomakomai
has already been given on p. 425.
From Tomakomai on to Nemuro
is a distance of 74 W, or 180 m^
The chief places visited, whether
the journey be made by land or by
sea, are the ports of Kushiro, Akke-
shi, and Nemiu:o.
Knshiro (Inn, Eanekichi) is a
growing town, whose chief exports
are coal and sulphur. Fine views
are obtained of 0-Akan and Me-
Akan, two high mountains to the
N. At no other place in Yezo are
so many relics of the stone age to
be found as at Kushiro. The hills
in the neighbourhood are covered
with hundreds of dwellings, which
are attributed by some investi-
gators to the Koropok-guni, a race
beheved by them to have inhabited
Yezo before the Ainos. Several
camps — or what have been con-
sidered such — are seen on the crests
of the hills, as also two or three
well-formed earthen forts, one
called Moshiriya near the river,
and the others at Lake Harutori^
about 2 m. from the town, where
likewise is a modem Aino village.
Coal has recently been discovered
at the head of the lake.
Akkeshi (Inn, Chiigenji) is npted
for its oysters, there being whole
reefs entirely composed of these
creatures. An oyster-tinning estab-
' lishiiient on the American plan
has existed here for many years
' past.
; The coast between Akkeshi and
' Nomuro is remarkable for the per-
; sistently tabular aspect of the main-
land and of the islands near it. Of
I the latter, the chief are : 1. Yururi,
V. Takashima and Ko-Takashima,
mere low ledges of rock, in spite of
their names which signify * Lofty
Island,' and ' Small Lofty Island/
The high far-off mountains to the
1. are Me-Akan, 0-Akan, the snow-
sprinkled ranges of Menashi-yama
and d-Menashi-yama, and ahead
Rausu-zan and Chacha-nobori in
the island of Kunashiri.
Neiniiro (Inn by Suzuki Zen-
suke) is a thriving town of about
2,000 houses, and possesses an
Agricultural College. The har-
bour is good, but freezes over com-
pletely in winter, the ice extend-
ing as far as the eye can reach.
Route OS.'^From Kmhiro to the N.E. Coast.
427
The Kubile Islands.
The Kuriles, of which Knna-
shlii and Iteriip are thp two
Bouthenuuost, derive their name
from the Bussian word kurity, ' to
smoke/ in allusion to the numerous
volcanoes which they contain.
The Japanese name is Chishima^
or • the Thousand Isles.* From No-
tsu-no>saki, the headland stretch-
ing N. W. of Nemuro, to Tomari,
the nearest port in Kunashiri, is a
distance of 3 ri. From Nemuro it
takes some 5 hrs. to reach Batwii-
zarif prettily situated on the sea-
shore, 3i m. to the £. of the
solfataras, to work which is the
object of having an establishment
in this place. This part of the
island is thickly wooded with coni-
fers of various species, while ferns
and flowering-plants form the
undergrowth. Bears abound. From
a clearing in the forest we get a
beautiful glimpse of the singularly
shaped Chacha-nohori, a cone with-
in a cone, the inner and higher of
the two being — so the natives say —
surrounded by a lake, while away
to the N. £. the sulphur is seen
boihng up at four distinct spots on
the flaiik of Bausu-zan. Another
solf atara is said to exist on the other
side of the mountain. There are
also several hot-springs and a hot
stream. One of these springs bub-
bles up on the beach, near the
factory, by whose inhabitants it is
used as a bath.
The chief port of Iterup is Sha-
na, on the N. side of the island. A
road leads from Shana to another
town at the N. E. extremity, about
65 m. distant, and there is also a
road in the opposite direction for
50 m. Horses can be obtained for
the greater part of these journeys.
The interior of the island is covered
with a forest, which can only be
penetrated by following up the
watercourses. The streams are
aUve with salmon from August to
December, and bears are plentiful.
ROUTE 68. .
Feom Kushiho to Abashibi on the
North-East Coast and Round
TO Nemuro. •
Itinerary (approximate).
KUSHIROto:— Ri. M.
Tore 7 17
Shibetcha 6 14f
Iwo-san 10 24^
Yamabetsu — —
Abashiri 19 46^
Shari 9 22
Wakkani 11 26f
Chirai-watari 9 22
Shibetsu.... 7 17
Betsukai 8 19i
NEMUEO 7 17
Total 93 227
A new road running by the side
of the river has been made from
Kushiro to Shibetcha ; but if the
traveller prefer, he can take pas-
sage in the steam launch which
leaves daily. There is a fine lake,
6 ri in circumference, near Toro,
(Inn by Matsumoto), a village con-
sisting of two or three Japanese
houses and some twenty Aino huts.
At Shibetcha (Inns, Daihei, Yo-
kota) there is a convict settlement
of about ],200 prisoners, and a
steam factory for refining sulphur.
Good salmon and salmon trout
fishing may be had here from July
to October. A railway 24 m. long
connects Shibetcha with Two -sail,
* sulphur mountain.* It is intended
for the carriage of svilphur from the
mountain, but passengers may also
get a li^t.
[Not following the railway track,
but turning aside for a dis-
tance of ^ ri, the traveller
reaches the hot-springs of
SeisMTcaga, where good accom-
modation may be had at Moto-
yama's house. Four ri fur-
428
Route 68.— The North-East Coast.
ther on is another lake, called
Kucharo, 12 ri in circumfer-
ence^ and having in the centre
some islands containing hot-
springs. The lake is deep and
clear, and affords good fishing.]
At the railway terminus of Iwo-
san is an inn by Yakeyama.
Splendid views are obtained of
0-Akan, Me-Akan, and the sur-
rounding country. The sulphur
is of first-rate quality, and is ex-
ported in large quantities to
America. From Iwo-san, the travel-
ler descends to Yamabetsu on the
sea-shore. There being no accom-
modation here, it is best to hurry
on to
Abashiri {Inn, Ishiyama). Eelics
of the ancient pit-dwellers may be
seen on the hills.
From here on to Shari the road
skirts the coast, then striking
inland over the mountains, and
coming out again by the sea at
Shibetsu, whence it once mare
follows the coast to Nemuro. Withi
the exception of Shibetsu and
Betsukai, none of the places passed
through offer better accommoda-
tion than Aino huts.
s
Those desirous of exploring the
N.E. coast of Yezo can do so by
turning to the 1. at Abashiri, whence
a road leads the whole way to
Soya, a distance of 71 ri (173 m.),
near the N. extremity of the is-
land. This journey, however,
offers little or no interest.
APPENDIX.
I. — From Inawashibo to Yone^awa v%& Bandai-san and the
• HiBABA Pass.
Hvti^TCLiru
INAWASHIRO to:— * Ri. Cho. M,
Tamanaka Onsen hut 3 — 7i
Nagamine 3 — 7i
Hibara 2 6 5^
Top of Pass 2 — 6
Tsunagi 1 20 3f
YONEZAWA 4 — »t
Total 15 26 38i
Time, 2 days.
Jinrikislias can only be taken for 1^ ri in the Yonezawa plain.
From Inawashiro to Hibara, luggage must be sent round vi& Shiokawa
and Oshio, — to Shiokawa 6 n by jinrikisha or packhorse, from Shiokawa
to Hibara 5a ri by packhorse only, in all 11^ ri.
For the ascent of Bandai-san, see p. 186. From the hut near the
spot where the view of the devastated district is first seen, it is possible
either to continue the circuit of the Bandai group over the site of the
cataclysm, or to proceed north over the same to Hibara which lies at the
further end of the newly formed lake. The way leads down for nearly
2 n to the shore of the lake, then ascends 1. a hill on the top of which
the waste is suddenly abandoned for a grand old forest, then down and
by the lake, with the skeletons of the trees still sticking up out of the
water, to Nagamine, 1 ri more. Here a boat can at times be got to Hi-
bara; otherwise 1 ri by the shore and 1 ri 6 cho over the Kurobe-toge to
Hibara (Inn by Ota), a village left half in, half out of the water by
the formation of the new lake. Streets lead into the lake, and trees
—some yet alive — stick up from out of it.
Across the lake, 15 cho on the way up the Hibara-toge, are the build-
ings of the Silver Keduction Works -, thence 1 ri to a tea-house, and 20 cho
4d0 Appendix.
more to the top of the pass through superb fo)^st and by a good path.
From the summit there is a view of hills running off into the Yonezawa
plain. Thence 10 chd down to a tea-house, and 1 ri 10 chd more to
Tsanagri (Inn, Aizuya), a mountain village. From here the way
leads over two low passes, from the first of which there is a fine view of
Asahi-dake and Gwassan.
Tonezawa (see p. 194).
II. — Fboh YomszAWA to Murakami vid Miomote.
This route, which is recommended to mountaineers only, takes 3 days.
Itinerary.
TOKEZAWAto:— RL Chd. M.
Eomatsu 3 — 7i
Tenoko 3 9 8
Oguni 9 — 22
Funato 2 — 5
Arazawa 2 18 6
Miomote . 3 — 7i
Iwakuzure * 5 — 12^
MURAKAMI 5 — 12i
Total 32 27 80
Jinrikishas can be taken as far as Funato, and again from 1 ri below
Iwakuzure to Murakami. The road lies first along the edge of the
plain, then over a slight "ascent, and up the valley of the Shirakawa to
Tenoko (Inns, Yamagata-ya and another 1 ri beyond the village, kept by
a man named li). TIk; old road over the Sakura-toge is no" longer used.
The new road leads over the Uzu-toge and then down the valley,
and eventually through the fine gorge of the Uzugawa. It is in places
almost tunnelled out of the cliffs above the stream. Snow lies in patches
here till the middle of June. lide-san is well seen to the 1. before
reaching
Oguni (Inn by Nozawa Yohei). Thence a very bad jinrikisha road
and a ferry over the Arakawa lead to
Fnnato (accommodation at the house of the headman of the vUlage).
Arazaif'a or Ito (accommodation at the house of the headman).
From here a road direct to Murakami branches off 1. The path to
Miomote — a mountain trail — keeps on up the valley, climbs a steep
ridge, and crosses a long pass whose successive dips bear different names.
Asahi-dake is seen to the r. After 2 ri the path descends to a stream
which has to be forded ; thence 1 ri more takes the traveller to the Mio-
mote-gawa. This too may have to be foMed j but usually a boat can be
A'pjimdix, 431
found by contmning up the bank to a pool at the entrance of the gorge.
On a little level space opposite stands
Miomote (accommodation at the temple), surrounded by hills
entirely wooded except for ledges of rock. A picturesque walk of 10-
cho may be taken up through the gorge of the Miomote-gawa and back.
The trail to Iwakuzure, whict is very rough — it is 5 ri and takes 7
Kours — ^le^ds straight up the Azuki-zaka opposite to a spring called
Mwwki 8himizUf or Magnolia Spring, and thence over steep slopes and '
lidges across a jumble of heavily wooded hills. About 1 ri from Miomote,
"by tl\0 side of the path, stands a shrine — a tiny shed over a stick with
gohei — dedicated to the local mountain god, Dorokujin.
As the porters pass, each lays a leaf on the shrine, and offers up a prayer for
safe keeping. It seems that Dorokujin was one day passing this way to the Magnolia
Spring, when he met, at the ravine called Ozawa, a beautiful maiden who was none
other than the goddess Benten. She consented to wed him, and then left, promising
to return j but as she never came back, he still waits and wanders over the mountains,
looking after the safety of wayfarers.
After a distant peep at the sea from the Toyaba-toge, the path de-
scends to Ozawa, 2i ri, which is merely a stream that, by choosing one's
spot, can be crossed from rock to rock ; then it rises over the Ozawa-toge,
and descends again to the Miomote-gawa, whose steep bank it follows 1.
high up, passing a second shrine to Dorokujin at a vantage point com-
manding a bend in the river. It is 2^ ri more to
Iwakaznre, where one may, by walking on 1 ri further, get jin-
rikishas to
Marakaiui (Inn, * Mura-ya). A still better plan is to hire a boat
direct, and drop down the rapids to the town, 5 ri, in about 2 hours.
"III. — From Murakami to Tsuru-ga-oka via the Agari-toge.
Itinerary.
MURAKAMI' to :— Bi. Cho. M.
Nakamura (by the Shindo) . . . . 8 31 21^
Arakawa 18 1^
Nakatsugi 1 — 2^
Yamakumada 2 18 6
Top of Agari-toge 2 10 5^
Oizumi-mura 1 26 4
Higashi Odori 18 l^-
Tazawa 2 15 6
Hongo • . 2 28 6f
TSUEU-aA-OKA . . . . . . 5 — 12i
Total 27 20 671^
This is a very rough 3 days* journey, recommended to none but
mountaineers. Streams have occasionally to be forded. The only
482 Appendix,
acoommodation is at the house of the headman of each village. JinriH-
shas are practicable as far as Nakamura, and again from Higashi Odori,
but must not be counted on.
IV. — From Tsubtj-ga-oka to Sendai viA the Eokujubi-gob and the
SEKIYAHA-TOaE, 3 DaYS.
Itinerary,
TSUEU-GA-OKA to:— Bi. Cho, 3f.
Matsune 2 33 7
Top of Jino-toge 1 — 2J
Churenji Onsen 8 ^
Oami 1 — 2i
Tamugi 1 — 2|
Sasagoya (hut) 3 — 7i
Top of Kokujuri-goe . . x . . . 1 18 3f
Shizu 2 — 5
Hondoji 3 — U
Mizusawa 1 20 3f
Kaishio 1 17 3i
Sekiyama 8 — 19i
Sakunami , 5 34 14|r
Ayako . 4 — 9f
SENDAI 3 — 7i
Total. 39 22 96f
This mountainous route affords many delightful views.
V. — Eeferring to Dr. Naumann's statement concerning the non-
existence of Yudono-san, quoted on p. 205, Mr. Percival Lowell informs
us that, though not itself a mountain, it is a holloiu on the shoulder of a
mountain called XJmba-ga-take. This spot is considered sacred, and is a
goal of pilgrims. Those who affirm and those who deny the existence
of the sacred mountain would therefore seem to be equally in the right,
as the question is one which turns on the definition of the word ' moun-
tain,' or rather of the Japanese word san.
^
GLOSSARY OF JAPANESE WORDS.
JLij a species of trout — ^the Salmo
aUivalis.
JLir-no-ma, see p. 23.
A.ha-hara, a fresh-water fish.
A-ma-do, rain-doors, such as in
Japan do duty for walls at night.
Aitui-inu, see p. 24.
Ame, a sweet, glutinous substance
prepared from rice or millet.
Ana, a hole, a crater, a tunnel.
Asemij a flowering shrub — the An-
dromeda japonica.
Basha, a carriage.
Bctshi (for haslii in compounds), a
bridge.
Betto, a groom.
Bonji, the Sanskrit or P&li written
character.
Bonien, Brahma.
Bosatsu, see p. 28.
Bu, the tenth part of a Japanese
inch (see p. 6).
Bugaku, an ancient pantomimic
dance.
Bunko, a library, a box for books.
Buyu, a species of sand-fiy.
Chadui, tea-money (see p. 7).
Cha-no-yu, the tea ceremonies.
Ctiayaj a tea-house (see p. 8).
Chigi, see p. 24.
Chijimi, crape.
Choy a measure of distance (see pp.
5 — 6), a street.
Chozu-hachi, a wash-hand basin> a
cistern.
Dai, a stand, a table.
Bai, big, great.
Daibutsu, a colossal image of a
Buddha.
Daidokoro, a kitchen.
Daigahu, a university, an academy.
Daimon, the great gate of a Bud-
dhist temple.
Daishi, a great Buddhist abbot or
saint.
Darani, a mystic Buddhist formula
or incantation.
Do, a hall, one of a set of temple
buildings.
Dori (for tori in compounds), a
street.
Ema-do, a hall hung with ex-votos.
Fvde, a Japanese pen.
Fusunia, sliding-screens covered
with paper.
Futon, a bed-quilt.
Gtty of.
Gakko, a school.
Gawa (for kawa in compounds), a
river, a stream.
Gedan, the lower and less honour-
able portion of certain grand
apartments,
G^in, the outer chamber or nave of
a Buddhist temple.
Gin, silver.
Go, an honorific prefix.
Go, a measure of capacity (see pp.
6, 115).
Gohei, the emblems in a Shinto
temple of the ancient offerings
of cloth; they are now usually
strips of white paper.
Goko, a halo, a glory round the
head of a saint.
Goma-do, a temple for the recital of
prayers while a fire of clean woo^
is burnt.
Gongen, see p. 29.
Goroju, the Council of State under
the Tokugawa Shogunate.
Gwaikokujint a foreigner.
484
Glossary,
•Gwaimusho, the Foreign Office.
HaJe-kei, eight views (see p. 318).
HakuiivisurJcican, a museum.
Hama, the sea-shore.
Hara, a moor.
Harakiri, suicide performed by rip-
ping up the abdomen.
Hashi, a bridge.
Hashira, a pillar.
Hashiri, a glissade.
Hatago, see p. 7.
Hatanwto, a vassal of the Shogun
having a fief assessed at less
than 10,000 kohi.
Heiden, a building for the recep-
tion of gohei.
Higashi, east.
Hinoki, the CliamoecyparU ohtusa — a
conifer whose wood is used in the
construction of Shinto temples
and palaces.
Hiragana, the running hand form
of the Japanese Kana, or syl-
labary.
Hiirw-ne, a siesta.
Honden, se^ Honsha.
Hwxdoy the principal building of a
Buddhist monastery.
Hongwanji, see p. 45.
Hmijin, a tea-house formerly used
by a Daimyo.
Honto, true, real.
Honsha, the main shrine of a Shin-
to temple — sometimes rendered
* chapel.*
Honzon, the principal deity or im-
age of a Buddhist temple.
Hoto, a Buddhist reliquary or trea-
sure-house.
Hozo, the treasure-house of a tem-
ple.
Ichi, a fair.
Icho, the name of a tree whose
leaves turn gold in autumn, — ^the
Salishuria adiamtifolia, also called
(ringho hiloha.
In, a seal, a symbol.
Ishi, a stone.
Ita-gaki, see p. 24.
Iwa, a rock.
Iwana, a fresh-water fish.
Iwaya, a cavern.
Ji (at end of temple names), a
Buddhist temple.
I Jigoku, hell.
Jiki-do, see p. 27.
Jitnusho, a business office.
Jinja, a Shinto temple.
Jinriiisha, a small light vehicle
drawn by one or two men.
Jodan, the raised and therefore
more honorable portion of certain
grand apartments.
Kaerurmata, (lit. frog's thighs)
pieces of timber shaped like the
section of an inverted cup, sup-
porting a horizontal beam.
Kago, a land of small palanquin.
Kdgo-waiashi, a basket slung to
rox)es and used instead of a
bridge for crossing a river.
Kagura, a Shint5 pontomimie
dance : Kagura-do, a stage for
the performance of this dtmce.
Kaido, a highway.
Kaisan, opening up a mountain,
hence founding a temple: Jcai-
san^, a temple dedicated to its
founder.
Kcikemono, a hanging scroll —
generally painted.
Kama, a cauldron.
Kanjiki, snow-shoes.
Kami, above, upper.
Kami, a Shinto god or goddess.
Kanio-a4)i, the name of a plant —
the a^sarum, whose leaf is the
crest of the Tokugawa family.
Kana, the Japanese syllabary.
Kane, money; long measure (see
p. 6).
Kannushi, a Shinto priest.
Kara-mon, a gate in the Chinese
style.
Katsuogi, see p. 24.
Kama, a river.
Ken, a measure of length (see p. 5).
Kencho, the head office of a pre-
fecture.
Keishicho, a police bureau.
Keydki, a tree whose very hard
is wood much prized — tiie Zd-
kowa keaJci.
Ki, a tree.
Kiji-mono, mosaic wood-work.
Kin, gold.
Kin, a pound (weight) ; see p. 6.
Kirin, a unicorn.
Glossary,
485
Kita, north.
Kohan, an ancient gold coin of oval
sliape.
Koenchi, a public garden or park.
Kokity the standard measure of
capacity (see p. 6). Incomes
'W'ere formerly estimated in kohi
of rice.
Koma~inu, see p. 24.
Kondo, lit. the "golden hall" — often
one of the handsomest buildings
of a Buddhist monastery.
Kongd-kai, the name of one half of
the universe according to Bud-
dhist mythology.
Kotsu-dd, a temple containing the
ashes of a deceased saint.
Ku, a district in a city.
Kujira, a whale;, cloth measure
(see p. 6).
Kunaisho, the Imperial Household
Department.
Kuruma, a jinrikisha.
Kusu-no-ki, a camphor-tree.
Kvxu, the Pueraria thv/nbergiana —
a plant from which a kind of
arrowroot is made.
Kwai, a society, an association.
Kwaird, a gallery.
Kwaisha, a company, a society.
Kwan, a hall, an edifice.
Kwan, the legal unit of weight (see
p. 6).
Kwankoha, an industrial bazaar.
Kyakuden, a reception room.
Kyodai, brothers.
Kyoryuchi, a foreign 'concession/
that part of a Japanese city in
which foreigners are permitted
to reside.
Kybzd, a library of Buddhist scrip-
tures.
Ma, a room.
Mdchi, a street, a town.
Makiniono, a scroll.
Mandara,& Buddhist picture — gene-
rally on a large scale and depict-
ing one half of the mythological
universe.
Mannen-bashi, see p. 132.
MasakaJci, see sakaki.
Massha, see p. 24.
Masii, a salmon-trout {SaZniojapo-
nicies).
Matsu, a pine-tree.
Matsurif a religious festival.
Megane, spectaicles, an eye-glass.
Mirharashi, a prospect, a view down
and over.
Mihoto, see p. 31.
Minamij south.
Mino, a straw rain-coat such as is
used by peasants.
Mino-gami, a stout variety of Japa-
nese paper, such as is used for
the illustrations of temples in
pp. 23 and 26.
Mokusei, the Olea fragrans — a tree
having small highly scented
flowers of a reddish* yellow
colour.
Momme, a standard of weight (see
p. 6).
3f(m, a g^te.
Monzeki, a temple of the Monto
sect, same as a Hongwanji ; see
also p. 294.
Mushi-hoshi, a general airing.
Muyo, not wanted, must not.
Nada, a stretch of sea.
Naijin, the inner chamber or chan-
cel of a Buddhist temple.
NaJca, middle, inside.
Nashiji, aventurine lacquer.
Nehanzo, see p. 32.
Nenibutsu, a prayer to Buddha.
Netsuke, see p. 13.
Ningyo, a doll, a small figure.
Nippon, Japan.
Nishi, west.
No, of.
No, a species of lyric drama — ^fche
only theatrical performance
much patronised by the Japa<-
nese nobility.
Norinumo, a palanquin.
Nure-hotoke, a Buddhist image
standing in the open air.
Nuri, lacquering.
0, an honorific prefix.
O, big (in compound words).
Oban, an ancient gold coin — ^large
and oval in shape.
Oka, a hillock, a mound.
Ohi-no-in, the holy of holies, the
innermost or furthest of a set of
temple buildings ; it often stands
on a hilL
436
Glossa}^.
On, an honorific prefix.
Onna-zaka, see pp. 62, 73.
Ori, woven stuff.
Otoko-zaka, see pp. 62, 73.
Rakan, see p. 31.
JZomma, ventilating panels neal*
the ceiling of a room ; they are
often beautifully carved.
Beiya, a mausoleum.
Renge, a lotus-flower.
Ri, a Japanese league (see p. 5-6).
RUcyu, a summer palace.
Rin, a copper coin worth the tenth
part of a cent,
Rinzo, a revolving library meant to
contain the Buddhist scriptures;
see p. 87.
Ryobu-Shintdy a hybrid religion
formed by a mixtiu*e of Shinto
with Buddhism.
RyUy a dragon.
Ryugi or ryw, a school, a manner,
— as of art.
Sakaki, the Cleyera japonica — ^the
sacred tree of the Shintoists.
Sakate, a tip, a pourboire.
Sake, rice-beer, hence alcoholic
liquors generally.
8ama, Lord, Mr., Mrs., Miss.
Sammorit the large two-storied gate
at the entrance to the grounds
of a Buddhist temple.
Sampan, a shore boat.
Samurai, a two-sworded man, a
nobleman's retainer.
San, Mr., Mrs., Miss.
San (in compounds), a mountain.
San-ju-rok-ka-$en, see p. 80.
San-kei, the three great sights of
Japan, viz. Matsushima, Ama-no-
Hashidate, and Miyajima.
Saru, a monkey.
Sehi, a barrier, an octroi.
Sen, a cent.
Seto-mono, crockery ; see p. 242.
Shake, a salmon.
Shaku, a foot (measure) ; see p, 6.
Shakudo, an alloy of copper and
gold.
Shakujd, a staff with metal rings
used by Buddhist priests.
Shamusho, the office at which the
business of a Shinto temple is
transacted.
Shihu-ichi, an alloy of copper and
silver.
Shima, an' island.
8him4), beneath, lower.
Shindo, a new road.
Shinsenjo, a place for offerings in a
Shinto temple.
Shira-ito, white thread — a namfr
often given to waterfalls.
Shiro, a castle.
8hd, a measui'e of capacity; (see
pp. 6, 115).
Shdgun, see pp. 34, 47.
Shcfin, an apartment, a drawing-
room.
Shoji, a sliding paper door which
serves as a window.
Shokubutsri-en, a botanical garden.
Shord, a belfry.
Soshi-do, a chapel dedicated to the
founder of a sect.
Shu, a sect.
Soncho, the mayor of a viUage.
Shuku, an abode, a post-town.
Shumirdan, the altar of a Buddhist
temple. ^
Shumi-sen, a fabulous mountain
which is the centre of the Bud-
dhist universe.
Somen, vermicelli.
Sotoha, see p. 71.
Sugi, a cryptomeria.
Suim,on, a water-gate.
Suji'kahe, see p. 46.
Sun, a Japanese inch (see p. 6).
Tahotb, a reliquary in the shape of
a pagoda.
Tai, & kind of sea-bream — the
Serranus niarginalis.
Taizo-kai, the name of one half of
the universe according to the
Buddhist mj'thology.
Taki, a waterfall.
Tama-gaki, see p. 24.
Tani, a valley.
Tanjo, birth.
Teikoku, an empire.
Tempo, an oblong brass coin having
a hole in the middle and worth
eight-tenths of a sen.
Tengu, a long-nosed goblin.
Tenno, the Mikado.
Tera, a Buddhist temple.
To, a measiure of capacity (see p. 6).
Glossary,
437
Toge, a pass over mountains.
Tokko, see p. 30.
Tohonoma, an alcove.
Torii, a Shinto gateway (see p. 24).
T&ro, a stationary lamp or lantern
— e.g. of stone.
T8uho, the unit of land measure
(see p. 6).
Tnunrugi, spun-silk cloth.
Tatinri-bashit see p. 128.
Yama, a mountain, a iiiU.
Yanagi-gori, see p. 11.
Yashcb, a Buddhist demon.
Yitahilciy a mansion.
Yashiro, a Shinto temple.
Uhiyo'€, a picture representing
popular Ufe.
Ura, back, behind.
Ura, a stretch of coast.
Waraji, a straw sandal used only
for heavy walking.
Tadoya, an inn, a hotel.
Yakusho, a government office.
Yatsu-mune-zukuri, having many
gables — said of a roof.
Yen, a Japanese dollar.
Yusen, a mail steamer.
Zan (for san in compounds), a
mountain, a hill.
Zcuihikiy a room, an apartment.
INDEX.
(When there are several references, the most important is given first.)
ABA
Aba, 386.
AbashiH, 428.
Ab5-toge, 234.
Abuta, 425.
Ada, 339.
Adams (Will), 59, 283, 286.
Aden (near Kdbe), 280.
Agano-gawa, 186.
Agari-tSge, 431.
Agatsoma-gawa, 145, 148.
Agematsu, 273 ; 239. '
Agune, 407
Aikawa, 227.
Aikawa-hama, 212.
Ainos, 415; 192, 210, 229.
Ai-no-take, 133.
Aitsu, 390.
Aizen Myo-o, 27.
Aizn, 187.
Ajiro, 109.
Ajisuki-Taka-liikone, 158, 160.
Akabane Junction, 64.
Akadake, 138, 139.
Akagi-san, 151, 171.
Akakura (near Myoko-zan), 223.
Akakura (near Ashio), 169.
Akama, 392.
Akama-ga-seki (see Shimonoseki).
Akanagi-san, 163.
Akanuma-ga-hara, 164, 166.
Akao, 240, 244.
Akappori, 163.
A'^nffahft, 73.
AJuwawa, 130.
ABSENALS
Akashi, 281.
Akayn, 202.
Akazaki, 349.
Akecbi, 243, 314.
Akechi Mitsnhide, 244.
Akiha, 264 ; 241.
Akita, 203, 204.
AkkesM, 426.
Amagi, 394.
Amagi-san, 110.
Ama-no-Hashidaie, 347, 348.
Ama-terasu, 27 ; 22, 248.
Amatsn, 180, 181.
Amebata-yama, 132.
Amida, 27.
Amihari, 199.
Anadaira, 237.
Anan, 28.
Anderson, Dr. Wm., 2, 37, 40, 45.
Andrews, Eev. Walter, Pr^,
Anjin-zuka, 60.
Aomori, 202.
Ao-no-Komyoji, 314.
Aoyama, 73.
Arai, 225.
Arai-yd, 147.
Arashi-yama, 295, 315.
Araya, 206.
Arayama (Akagi-san), 151.
Arayama-tdge, 229.
Arayasu, 222.
Arayu, 183.
Arazawa, 430.
Arima, 282.
Arita, 895.
Arnold, Sir Edwin, 74.
Arsenals, 78.
Indeau
489
ART
Art, 12,
Art Museum (Kyoto), 300.
Art School (Tokyo), 82.
AsaM-dake, 207, 429.
Asakiisa, 84.
Asama vill. (near Matsumoto), 220.
Asama-yama, J.44, 147, 219.
Asama-yama (m Ise), 251.
Asamushi, 201.
Ase-kaki Jizo, 341.
Asliikaga, 151. -
Ashikaga Shoguns, 34, 44, 293, et
pass.
Ashikaga Yoshimasa, 312.
AsMkaga Yoshimitsu, 292, 293.
Ashikura (in Koshu), 134 ; 133, 135.
Asliikura (near Tateyama), 231.
Ash.i-nazuchi, 351.
Ashi-no-umi, 97.
Ashi-no-yu, 101, 97.
Ashio, 167.
Ashitaka-yama, 116.
Asliiwara-koku, 355.
Aso-san, 402.
Atago-san (Sendai), 195.
Atago-yama (at Karoizawa), 143.
Atago-yama (Kyoto), 314.
Atago-yama (Tokyo), 73.
Atami, 108 ; 106, 111.
Atsumori, 42.
Atsuta, 244, 245.
Awajl, 352.
Awata-guchi, 308.
Awata Palace, 309.
Azabu, '73.
Aziiki-zaka, 431.
Azuma, 143.
Azuma-baghi, 87.
Azuma-yama, 193.
B
Baba (Otsu), 269, 318.
Baienji, 109.
Bakan (see Shimonoseki). -
Bandai-san, 184, 192, 194, 429.
Bange, 187.
Banks, 6.
Banyu-ga^a, 124.
Batch^or, Bey. Jnc, 426.
CHISHIHA
Baths, 7, 16.
Bells (great), 301, 308, 328.
Benkei, 36.
Benten, 28.
Benten-daki, 146.
Benten-yama, 101.
Benzaiten, 28.
Beppu, 399.
Besshi, 375.
Betsukai, 428.
Bird, Miss, 425.
Bishamon, 28.
Bismarck Hill, 281.
Biwa Lake, 317 ; 268.
Blakiston, T. W., 416, 417.
Bluff (Yokohama), 54.
Boju, 4(n..
Benin Islands, 3.
Bonten, 28.
Books on Japan, 2.
Boots, removing the, 8, 16.
Bosatsu, 28
Boshu, 171.
Botanical Gardens, 78.
" Boys," 5.
Buddhism, 24 ; 9, 22.
Budo-yama, 207.
Buko-zan, 140.
Bungo Fuji (see Yufu).
Burando Yakushi, 222.
Buson, 37, 312.
Byobu-ga-ura, 367.
Byddo-in, 316.
Capron, Greneral, 416.
Cave-dwellings, 96.
Cave-temple of Kwannon, 139.
Cemetery of Koya-san, 341.
Cemeteries (Imperial), 79, 299.
Chacha-nobori, 427.
Chiba, 174.
Chichibu, 135; 96, 126, 133.
Chidori, 170.
Chijiwa, 385.
Chikubu-shima, 322.
Chikuma-gawa, 220.
Chion-in, 306.
Chishima^ 427.
440
Index.
CHITOSS
Ohitose, 424,
Oho Densu, 37.
Ohofu (see Toyoiira).
Ohokai-zan, 205.
Chomeiji-j'ania, 319.
Choshi, 176.
Chuai Tenno, 365.
Chuda, 354.
Chusonji, 197.
Ohuzenji, 165,169.
Climate, 8.
Circular Railway, 64.
Clothing, 8.
Confucius, temples of, 77, 151.
Cormorant Fishing, 93.
Curios, 13.
Curio Street (TokyG), 77.
Currency, 5.
Custom-house, 3.
Czarewitch, 319 ; 45.
Daibutsu (Hyogo), 282.
Daibutsu (Kamakura), 56.
Daibutsu (Kyoto), 300.
Daibutsu (Nara), 328.
Daibutsu (Tokyo), 80.
Daienji, 91.
Dai-ga-hara, 136.
Daiganji, 174.
Daikoku, 28.
Dainichi-do, 161.
Dainichi Nyorai, 28.
Dainichi-toge, 207.
Daira-botchi, 175.
Daira-ura, 228.
Daisen, 349.
Daishaku, 198, 199.
Daishoji, 228.
Daitd Kokushi, 292.
Daitokuji, 292.
Daiyagawa, 154, ]()0.
Dango-zaka, 78.
Dan-no-ura, 46, 366.
Dashiwara-dani, 238.
Date Masamune, 82,
Dazaifu, 393; 32,88.
Death-Stone, 184.
Deer Island, 412.
ITCHU
Deer Park, 162.
Dengyo Daishi, 37,316.
Denzu-in, 78.
Diet, Imperial, 74.
Dixon, J. M., 78.
Dobutsu-en, 83.
Dockyard (Nagasaki), 381.
Dogashima, 99.
Dogo, 366.
Dorogawa, 338.
Dorokujin, 431.
Doryo-san, 104.
Doshisha, 291.
Dosojin, 28.
Doyo, 175.
Dress, 8.
Dzushi, 58.
Ebisu, 28.
Ebisu-Minato, 226. 227.
Eboshi-jima, 361.
Eboshi-yama, 207.
Echigo Fuji, 207.
Educational Museiim, 77.
Eight Beauties of Omi, 318.
Eikwando, 310.
Eirinji, 122.
Eitel, Dr. E. J., Pref.
Ejiri, 261, 262.
Eko-in, 88.
Emi, 180.
Emma-0, 28.
Emperor, present, 322.
Ena-san, 133, 137. ,\\
Enchin, 304. y^.
Engineering College, .74^. -* •
Enno, 136.
Enno Shokaku, 37, 338.
Enoshima, 57.
Enoyu,410. \ ^
Enryo-kwan, 90. i,.
" Ertogroul," 275.' *
Esan, 419.
Etajima, 363. ,
Esashi, 422.
Eshin, 37.
Eta, 88.
Etchu, 230.
.\ •.
%_.
Index.
441
FESTIVALS
Festi^-als, 65.
Fischer, 380.
Fisli-"breeding establishment, 322.
Fishing, 14, 165.
" Fixed Routes," 4.
Foreign Concession (Tokyo), 90.
Formosan Expedition, 36,
Forty-seven Eonins, 73.
Fucbii, 93
Fu Daishi, 87. -
Fudo, 28, 175.
Fudo, temples of, 176; 91.
Fugen, 28.
Fugen-dake, 388.
Fuji. 114.
Fujikawa, 136; 128.
Fuji-mi jn-san-shu, 115.
Fuji-no-Mori, 317.
Fujisan, 116, 317.
Fujisawa, 258.
Fukagawa, 89.
Fukai*a Pass, 107.
Fukiage, 82.
Fukuchiyama, 344.
Fukue, 411.
Fukui, 228.
Fukiimachi, 344.
Fukuoka, 392.
Fukura (near Ohokai-zan), 205.
Pukura (in Awaji), 355.
Fukurokuju, 29.
EHikusMma (in Yezo), 421.
Fukushima (North Ry.), 192.
Fukushima (on Nakasendd), 273;
239.
Fukuwara, 41, 42, 283, 288.
Fukuwata, 182.
Fukuyama (Inland Sea), 363.
Fukuyama (Matsumae), 420,(423.
Funabashi, 174.
Fnnak9>ira, 208.
FunaliilM, 208.
Puna&;r*430.
Funatsu (near Fuji), 1^1, 138.
Funatsu (on Takahara-gawa),
233
Puruichi, 246.
Purukawa, 196.
Furumachi, 182.
GONOBN
Furuyu, 396.
Fusan, 412.
Fushiki, 229.
Fushimi (on Nakaeendo), 274.
Fushimi, palace of, 296, et pass,
Futa-ara, 153, 158.
Futago, 93.
Futago-yama, 101.
Futakuchi-toge, 202.
Futami, 250.
Futamiya, 164.
Futatabi-san, 280.
Futatsu-goya, 183.
Futsukaichi, 393.
Futsunushi, 176.
Futtsu-saki, 275.
Fuwa Barrier, 268.
4
Gakushi Kai-in^ 83.
G^mushi, 422.
Ganjii-san, 198.'
Geku temple, 248 ; . 247.
Genji Monogatari, 43, 281, 322. *
Gen-Sammi Yorimasa, 316.
Gensan, 412.
Gero, 236.
Gifu, 268; 235.
Ginkakuji, 312.
Ginza, 77.
Gion, 32.
Gion (Kyoto), 307.
Glover and Co., 384.
Gochi, 225.
Go-chi Nyorai, 29.
Gochoda, 147.
Go-Daigo, 37,
Godo, 168, 169.
Gods, most popular, 27.
Gohonsha, 232.
Go-hyaku Rakan, 31.
Go-hyaku Rakan, temples of, 88,
91, 267.
Gojo, 339.
Gokamura, 131.
Gokase-gawa, 405.
Gokokuji, 79.
Gompachi and Komurasaki, 91.
Gongen, 29, 158.
442
Index,
OONGEN
Gongen (Hakone), 105.
Gongen-dake, 138, 139.
Go-no-he, 201.
Goroju, 174.
Goroka-dake, 238.
Goryochi (NikkeO, 362.
Ck)ryokaku, 417.
Go-Shirakawa, Emperor, 300.
Gotemba, 116, 259, 103, 114.
Goto Islands, 412.
Goyo-san, 215.
Goyu, 265.
Gozu Tenno, 32.
Griffis, Eev. W. E., Pref.t 2, 228.
Guides, 4.
Gunge, 356.
Gwaryobai, 89.
Gwassfen, 205, 429.
Gyogi Bosatsu, 38.
H
Habu, 112.
Hachi-ga-machi, 234.
Hachi-ishi, 152.
Hachijo, 112, 113.
Hachiman, 29, 89, 314.
Hachiman Taro, 198, 207.
Hacliioji, 95, 123.
Hachiro-gala, 208.
Ha^i, 352.
Haguro-san, 205.
Haijima, 125.
Haiki, 383.
Hakata, 392.
Hakii, 130, 135.
Hakkei, 318 ; 59.
Hakodate, 416.
Hakone, 105; 97.
Hakosaki, 392.
Haku-san, 239, 231.
Hamada, 352.
Hamamatsu, 264.
Hamamura, 352.
Hamana Lagoon, 264.
Hamasaki, 395.
Hamura, 125.
Hanamaki, 198.
Hanare-yama, 143.
Hanashiki, 149.
HiaASHI OTANI
Hanawa, 169.
Handa, 246.
Handa, mines, 194.
Haneo, 149.
Hanging Bridge, 128, 135.
Hankai Eailway, 286.
Hannen, Mrs. N. J., Pref.
Hanno, 126.
Harada,393.
Harinoki Pass, 237.
Harris, Townsend, 111.
Haruna, 146.
Hase, 333.
Hashiba, 220.
Hashikura, 373.
Hashikura Rokuemon, 82.
Hashimoto (near Koya-san), 339.
Hashimoto (near Kyoto), 314.
Hashino Nakatomo, 84.
Hashitate, 139.
Hata (Hakone), 103.
Hata (near Tateshina-yama), 138.
Hawes, Lieut. A. G. S., Pref.
Hayachine yama, 198, 214.
Hayakawa (Hakone), 98, 107.
Hayakawa (Koshii), 131.
Hayakawa village, 132.
Hegawa-kawa, 214.
Hemi, 59.
Hibara, 194, 429.
Hibiya, 75.
Hida (Province), 230.
Hida (in Bungo), 393.
Hida (in Buzen), 398.
Hida Kaido, 235.
Hidari Jingoro, 38, 155.
Hideyori, 300.
Hideyoshi, 38, 306, 342.
Hie, 31.
Hie no Jinja, 74.
Hiei-zan, 323 ; 44.
liigane-toge, 106, 109.
Higashi Fushimi, Prince, 294.
Higashi Hongwanji (Kyoto), 303.
Higashi Hongwanji (Tokyo), 84.
Higashi Iwase, 230.
Higashi Kirishima, 409.
Higashi Odori, 432.
Higashi Mochiya, 271.
Higashi Ogawa, 170.
Higashi Otani, 307.
Index.
443
HIOASHI dTAHA
fiigaslii Oyama, 187.
Siino Misaki, 276.
Sijikawa, 375.
:B:ikage, 149.
Sikawa (Tokyo), 73.
Sikawa (on the Tamagawa)^ 126,
140.
Hikone, 322, 369.
Siko-san, 394.
Himeji, 362.
Himi, 389.
Himi-toge, 382.
Hirabayashi, 134.
Hirado, 362.
Hirahama, 107.
Hirano, 282.
Hirano Jinja, 292.
Hirasawa. 138, 139, 272.
Hiratsuka, 61.
Hirayu, 234.
Hirazawa, 206.
Hirosaki, 208.
Hirose, 233.
Hiroshima, 363 j 352.
History, 34.
Hitachi, 171.
Hito-ana, 121; 117.
Hitoyoshi, 410.
Hiyama, 344.
Hiyoku-zuka, 91.
Hiziime, 198.
Ho, 132. *
Hoei-zan, 116.
Hofukuji-toge, 220.
Hojo, 180.
Hojo Regents, 34, 43, 110.
Hoka-zan, 384.
Hokigawa, 182.
Hokkaido, 415.
Hokkaido Railway, 4Z4.
Hokkoku Kaido, 222.
Hokkyo, 424.
Hokoda, 177.
Hokurokudo, 270.
Hommonji, 92.
Honen Shonin, 310.
Hongo, 110.
Hongwanji temples, 84, 90, 253,
266, 285, 302, 303.
Honjo (near Akita), 206.
Honjo (near Takasaki), 140.
IIZUKA
Honjo (Tokyo), 88.
Honkokuji, 301.
Honoki Shimizu, 431.
Honzawa, 138.
Ho-o-zan, 134, 136.
Horikiri, 88.
Hori-no-uchi, 93.
Horiuchi, 58.
Horobetsu, 425.
Horyuji, 324, 331.
Horse-shoe Valley, 281.
Hosokute, 274.
Hosonaga, 406.
Hoso-o Pass, 167.
Hossawa, 126.
Hotel, 29.
Hotoke, 29.
Hotoke-iwa, 158, 160.
Hotta family, 174.
Hozu, 315.
Huish, M.B., 2.
Hunter's Gap, 280.
Hutchinson, Rev. A. B., Pref.
Hyakkwan, 404.
Hyaku-ana, 96.
Hyaku-nin Is-shu, 319, 327.
Hyaku-sawa, 208.
Hyogo, 282.
Hy5ri-yama, 211.
I
Ibuki-yama, 268.
Ichibata-yama, 351.
Ichikawa Ferry, 96.
Ichi-no-he, 201.
Ichi-no-miya, 356.
Ichinoseki, 196. •
Ichi-no-tani, 282, 42.
Ide-zawa, 134.
lemitsu, 38.
leyasu, 39, 300.
Igano, 355.
lida, 240.
lide-san, 207, 430.
ligai, 336.
lijima, 240.
li Kamon no Kami, 75, 322.
lizaka, 194.
lizuka (Takasaki), 141, 147.
444
Index,
IIZUKA
JIE DAI8HI
liziika (in Kyushu), 391.
Isobe, 141 .
lizima-san, 222.
Isshinden, 253.
Ikao, 145.
Itabashi (Tokyo), 64.
Ikeda (in Shikoku), 373.
Itabashi (near Kofu), 138.
Ikeda (on Tenryii-gawa), 241.
Itakura Shigemaaa, 389.
Ikeprami, 92 ; 26.
Iterup, 427.
Iki, 362.
Ito (Arazawa), 430.
Ikisu, 177.
Ito (in Izu), 109, 111.
Ikudama, 285.
Itoi-gawa, 230.
Iknno, 31f4.
Itomi, 131
Ikuta, 280.
Itsiikaichi, 126.
Imabari (see Imaharu).
Itsuknshima (see Miyajima).
Imaharu, 366.
Iwabiichi, 259; 135, 136.
Ima-i, 331.
Iwai, 196.
Imaisurugi, 229.
Iwai-nuski, 176.
Imari, 395.
Iwaki, 187.
Imba Lagoon, 174.
Iwaki-san, 208, 423.
Imose-yama, 336.
Iwaknni, 365.
Inada-hime, 351.
Iwaknzure, 431.
Ina^i, 174.
Iwamurata, 271.
Inago, 138.
Iwanai, 423.
Ina Kaido, 240, 244.
Iwanuma, 195.
Inamura-dake, 206.
Iwase Matahei, 39.
Ina.ri, 29, 298.
Iwashimizu Hachiman-gii, 314.
Inari-kawa, 163.
Iwataki, 348.
Inari station, 269.
Iwate-san, 198.
Inari temple (Kyoto), 298.
Iwaya-dake, 383.
Inasa-yama, 382.
Iwo-san, 427.
Inawashiro, 184, 429.
Izanagi, 29 ; 22.
Inawashiro Lake, 183.
Izanami, 29.
Inland Sea, 357.
Izawa, 137.
Innai, 204.
Izu, 108, 111. 4
Ino, 372.
Izugaharaj 411.
Ino Cbiikei, 73.
Izumi Strait, 276.
I-no-Hayata, 316.
Izumo, great temple of, 360 ; 23.
I-no-kashira, 94.
Izumosaki, 226.
Insatsu Kyoku, 76.
IziiTia-san, 222.
Inns, 7.
Izu no Shichi-to, 111.
Irako-zaki, 245.
Izuru, caves of, 150, 153.
Irimachi, 152.
Izu-san, 109 ; 107.
Iriyama-t6ge, 143.
Isahaya, 389.
Ise, 244.
J
Iseji, 245.
^^
Ise Ondo, 247.
Jakko, 161, 162.
Ishikake-yama, 100.
James, Lieut. T. H., Prrf.
Ishikari river, 424.
James, Mrs. T. H., 345.
Ishikawa-jima, 90.
" Japan Mail," Pre/., 76, 219.
Ishinomaki, 211; 196.
" Japanese Fairy Tale Series," 320,
Ishiyama-dera, 321.
345.
Ishizuchi-yama, 375.
Jie Daishi, 84.
Index,
445
JIGEN DAI8HI
■Jigen Daishi, 84, 154.
Jikaka Daishi, 86.
Jikan, 162.
Jikkokn-toge, 106.
Jimmu Tenno, 40.
Jinmra Tenno, Mausoleum of, 332.
Jingo Kogo, 40.
Jin-ga-mine, 343.
Jinguji, 204.
Ji-no-shima, 276.
J^inzu-gawa, 232.
Jizo, 2A, 101.
Jizo-ga-take, 133.
Jodanke, 424.
Jo-ga-hana, 233.
Jogashima, 60.
Josetsu, 40.
Joshinji, 89.
Jiimon-toge, 139.
Ju-ni Doji, 86.
Ju-ni-kai, 87.
Juniso, 93.
Ju-ni-ten, 295.
Junnin, Emperor, 353, 355.
Junsaimura, 418.
Junsai-numa, 418.
Jurojin, 29.
Juroku Kakan, 31.
Ju-san-toge, 274.
Kabe, 352.
Kabuki-za, 90.
Kabuto-kami-san, 214.
Kachiyama, 180.
Kadori, 176.
Kaempfer, 36.
Kaga Yashiki, 77.
Kagemori, 139.
Kagoshima, 407.
Kaigane-san, 135.
Kaikawa, 375.
Kaimon-dake, 410.
Kainose, 375.
Kaitakushi, 415, 418.
Kaito, 245.
Kajika-zawa, 131, 135.
Kajiki, 409.
Kakegawa, 264.
KABITA
Kakujo, 252.
Kakumi, 420.
Kamado, 274.
Kamafuse-zan, 201.
Xamagawa, 140.
Kamagori, 260.
Kamaisbi, 215.
Kamakura, 55.
Eamanashi-gawa, 131, 136.
Eamatari, 335.
Eameda, 422.
Eameido, 88.
Eamezawa-gawa, 122.
Eameoka, 344.
Eami-Gamo, 313.
Kami-ichi, 336.
Kami-ide, 121; 117.
Kamikane, 127.
Kamikawa, 424.
Kami Nishino, 236.
Kami-no-Suwa, 137.
Eiiminoyama, 202.
Eamishima, 246.
Kamiya, 339.
Kami Yashiro, 246 ; 244.
Kamman-ga-fuchi, 160.
Kammuri-ga-take, 100.
Kamozawa, 127.
Kamuro, 339.
Kana-ga-saki, 228.
Kanagawa, 54, 62.
Kaname-ishi, 177.
Kanaoka, 42.
Kanaya (Boshu), 179.
Kanaya, (Tokaido), 264.
Kanazawa (in Kaga), 228.
Kanazawa (near Lake Suwa), 137.
Kanazawa (near Yokohama)^ 59.
Kanda Myojin, 77.
Kane, 339.
Kane-ga-take, 131 .
Kannawa-mura, 399.
Kanna-yama, 224.
Kano family, 40.
Kano-san, 178.
Kan Shojo, 32.
Kanzaki, 396.
Kaori, 194.
Karakimimi-dake, 410.
Kariki, 424.
Kariya, 363.
446
Index,
EJLSASAKI
Karasald, 819.
Karizaka-toge, 140.
Kamizawa, 142.
Karuizawa-Naoetsu Eailway, 219,
270.
Kasama, 173.
Kasamori, 176.
Kasatori-toge, 271.
Kashii, 392.
Kashima, 177.
Kashiwabara (Naoetsu Ky.), 223.
Kashiwabara (Osaka-Nara £j.), 324.
Kashiwabara (near Sakurai), 332.
£ashiwara-yama, 354.
Kashiwazaki, 225.
Kasho, 29.
Kasuga, 326.
Katase, 58, 57.
Katashina-gawa, 170.
Kato Kiyomasa, 41, 401.
Kato Shirozaemon, 242.
Katsunuma, 124.
Katsuragi-yama, 336.
Katsura-gawa rapids, 315.
Katsnra no Eikyu, 297, 287.
Katsuyama, 240.
Kawachi, 404, 405.
Kawaguchi (near Fuji), 138 ; 121.
Kawaguchi (on Miyode-gawa), 372.
Kawaguchi (on Yoshino-gawa), 373,
375.
Kawakami, J^56.
Kawanoe, 373.
Kawara-yama, 382.
Kawasaki (Ise), 250.
Kawasaki (near Tokyo), 63.
, Kawa-uchi (N.E. coast), 214.
Kazusa, 171.
Keage, 318; 217.
Kegon, 165.
Keicho-zan, 183.
Keigashima, 259.
Keiki, ex-Shogun, 262.
Kei no Matsubara, 356.
Ken-ga-mine, 118.
Kenninji, 304.
Ken-no-mine, 222.
Kesen-numa, 215.
Kiga, 99.
Kiimi-dera 344.
Kii Promontory, 276.
KOIBHIWASA
Kikonai, 422.
Kikuchi, Professor, 185.
Kimbo-san, 403.
Kimpu-san, see Kimbo-san.
Kimpu-zan, 123.
Kinkakuji, 292.
Kinko-zan, 308, 318.
Kinkwa-zan, 211, 212.
Kinomiya, 109.
Kintai-kyo, 365.
Kintoki-zan, 103.
•Kinukasa-yama, 293.
Kirifuri, 161.
Kiri-ishi, 131.
Kirishima;409, 73.
Kirishitan-zaka, 78.
Kiritsumi, 144.
Kiryu, 151.
Kisarazu, 178.
Kishi Bojin, 29.
Kisogawa, 272-4.
Kiso Kaido, 272.
Kitakami-gawa, 196, 211, 214.
Kitano Tenjin, 291.
Kit a Shirakawa, Prince, 80, 154.
Kitaura Lagoon, 177.
Kita Yoshimi-mura, 96.
Kiyomizu-dera, 304.
Kiyomori, 41.
Kiyosumi, 181.
Kizawa, 122.
Kizugawa, 817, 330.
Kizuki, 350. .
Kobe, 279 ; 269.
Kobe-gawa, 351.
Kobo Daishi, 41, et pass.
Kobori Enshu, 306.
Kobotoke-toge, 135.
Kobukuji, 330.
Kochi, 372.
Kochi-no-yii, 127.
Kodachi, 120,
Kodaiji, 306.
Koenami, 355.
Kofu, 121.
Koga, 64, 192.
Koganei, 94.
Kogota, 196.
Kohoji, 97.
Koishikawa, 78.
Koishiwara, 394.
Index,
447
KOJIGOKU
Kojigoku (Hakone)^ 100.
Kojigoku (Shimabara), 386.
Kojiki, 35, 143. 333, 351, 354.
Kojiki Den, 252.
Kojima,423.
Kdjimachi, 74.
Kojima Takanori, 42.
Koken, Empress, 353.
Kokoromi-zaka, 314.
Kokubunji, 93, 94.
Kokura, 391.
Kokuzo Bosatsu, 251.
Koma-ga-take (Hakone), 102.
Koma-ga-take (Koshu), 136.
Koma-ga-take (Shinshu), 239; 231.
Koma-ga-take (Yezo), 419.
Komagino, 95, 123.
Ko-Manago, 163, 165.
Konfktsu (near Fukui), 228.
Komatsu (near Niigata), 186.
Komei Tenno, 299, 313.
Kome-no-tsu, 407.
Kome-no-ura, 228.
Kominato (Boshu), 180 ; 176.
Kominato (Oshu Kaido), 201.
Komitake, 116.
Komoro, 219, 145.
Kompira, 30.
Kompira, temple of, 366.
Kompira-san, 146.
Kompira-yama, 381.
Komuro-zan, 109.
Konashi, 178.
Konishi Yukinaga, 38, 286.
Komori, 345.
Kondo, 343.
Kongobuji, 340.
Ko no Amida, 252. •
Kbnodai, 97.
Konosu, 96.
Konsei-togc, 169, 170.
Koniima, 418.
Koraku-en, 78.
Korea, 411, 412.
Korea, conquests of; 38, 40.
Koretsubo, 131.
Kori-dani, 149.
Korin, 42.
Koriyama (near Nara), 32§.
Koriyama (North Ry.), 192; 187.
Koromo-gawa, 197-8.
KUBOGOMA
Koropok-guru, 426.
Kosame, 149.
Kose, 144.
Kose-no-Kanaoka, 42.
Koshin, 30.
Koshin-zan, 167.
Koshoji, 301.
Koshu Kaido, 123, 136, 272.
Kotalba, 126.
Kotaki mine, 167.
Kotohira, 366.
Kotajima-minato, 374.
Kowaki-dani, 100.
Koya-san, 340 ; 338.
Koyasu, 61.
Koyo-kwan, 73.
Kozenji, 196.
Kozori, 134, 135.
Kozu, 62, 98, 259; 3.
Kozu-no-miya, 285.
Kozu-shima, 113,
Kublai Khan, 34, 55.
Kucharo, 428.
Kuchinotsu, 390.
Kuchiono, 348.
Kudan, 75.
Kudo Suketsune, 101.
Kuenji, 128.
Ku-jii-ku Tani, 179.
Kumagai, 140.
Kumagai-do, 311.
Kumagai Naozane, 42, 311.
Kumagawa, rapids of, 404, 411.
Kumamoto, 401.
Kumano Jinja, 350.
Kumanosawa, 235.
Kumihama, 348.
Kunashiri, 427.
Kuno-zan, 260.
Kuper, Admiral, 407.
Km-ama-yama, 313.
Kuie, 363.
Kurihashi, 192.
Kuriko Kaido, 193.
Kiu^ile Islands, 427.
Kurino, 410.
Kurobe, 238.
Kurobera, 123.
Kuroda Nagamasa, 392.
Kurodani, 310.
Kurogoma, 138.
1
448
Index,
EUROHIME
Kurohime, 223.
Kurokami, 408.
Kurokawa, 207.
Euronota, 124.
Kurosaki, 391.
Kurosawajiri, 198, 203.
Kuroshio, l7l.
Knruma-dani, 280.
Kunime, 393.
Kusakabe, 127.
Eusatsu, 148.
Knsatsu Junction, 269 ; 254.
Knshiro, 426.
Kusiinoki Masashige, 42.
Eutani, 229.
Eutsukake, 144, 271.
Eutsuzawa, 135.
Ewankoba (Shiba), 68.
Ewannon, 30.
Ewannon, Thirty-three Places of,
•257.
Ewannon-dake, 135.
Kwannonji, 252.
Ewannon-no-taki, 384.
Ewannon-yama, 160.
Ewannon-zaki, 275.
Ewansei Railway, 245, 254.
Ewanzeonji, 393.
Eyo-ga-shima, 132.
Eyoraishi, 137.
EyOrytlji, 139.
Eyoto. 287 ; 4, 9, 67, 269.
Eyushu, 377.
Lake Biwa, 317; 4.
Lake Biwa Canal, 318; 309.
Lakes, near Hakodate, 418.
Language, 17.
Layard, R. de B., Tref.
Library, public. 82.
Loochoo Islands, 3; 408.
Lowell, Percival, Pref., 229; 432.
Luck, gods of, 32.
I^uggage, 10.
Maebira mine, 233.
Macpherson's Hill, 59.
Maebara, 180.
MsauRO
Maebaru, 395.
Maebashi, 140.
Maeguchi, 149.
Maeyama, 389.
Maezawa, 197.
Magome, 274.
Maibara, 268.
Maibara-Tsuruga Railway, 227-
Maiko, 281, 357.
Maizuru, 346.
Makishima, 386.
Makonomai, 424.
Makura no taki, 161.
Mama Eonodai, 97.
Mama no Tekona, 97.
Manazhru, 108.
Mangwanji, 154.
Mausolea, 68, 83, 155, 158.
Mausoleum of Jimmu Tenno, 332.
Manyoshuj 97, 212.
Maps, Pref.y 2.
Mariko, 93.
Marine Biological Laboratory, €0.
Marishiten, 31.
Marugame, 366.
Maruno, 1 36.
Maruyama (Eyoto), 307.
Maruyama (Tokyo), 72.
Masakado, 77.
Masaki-gawa, 410.
Masuyama, 424.
Matsuda, 180.
Matsu, 349.
Matsuida, 142.
Matsukawa, 192.
Matsumae, 415, 420, 423.
Matsumoto, 220, 235.
Matsunoki, 234.
Matsuo, 357.
Matsushima (Ina Eaido), 240; 244.
Matsushima (near Nagasaki), 362.
Matsushima (Sendai), 209, 210; 196.
Matsushiro, 220.
Matsuyama, 366.
Matsuzaka, 252.
Matsuzato, 122.
Maya Bunin, 31.
Maya-san, 280.
Me-Akan,.426, 428.
Megane-bashi, 77.
Meguro, 91.
Index.
440
HBNDEZ PINTO
MUENZUKA
Mendez Pinto, 400.
Mito, Prince of, 43, 78, 177.
Mera, 181.
Mito Eflilway, 172.
Mida, see Amid a.
Mitsubishi Company, 384.
Midono, 274.
Mitsu-ga-hama, 366.
Miharu, 363.
Miwa, 333.
Mihara (volcano), 112.
Miya, 244.
Mi-harashi, 99.
Miyagino, 99.
Miharu, 188.
Miyajima, 364.
Miidera, 319.
Miyako, 214.
IVriike, 390, 393.
Miyako Odori, 288.
Mikaburi-yama, 138.
Miyamizu, 105.
Mikado, present, 322.
Miya-no-ichi, 406.
" Mikado's Empire,*' 2.
Miyanokoshi, 273.
Mi-kaeri no Aniida, 310.
Miyanoshita, 97—99.
Mikami-yama, 320.
Miyazono, 393.
Mikasa-yama, 330.
Miyazu, 347.
Mikkaichi, 344.
Miyodo-gawa, 372.
Mikomotq, 275.
Mizaka. 352.
Mikumo, 254.
Mizusawa, 198.
Mikuni-toge, 406.
Mochii, 372.
Mikuriya, 349.
Mochiznki, 271.
Miller, Eev. E. E;, Pref.
Moganii-gawa, 207.
Mimi-zuka, 301.
Mogi, 382.
Mimmaya, 209.
Moheji, 422.
Mimpei, 355.
Moji, 366.
Minamoto family, 34.
Mombetsu, 423.
Minato (in Awaji), 356!
Momiyama, 178.
Minato (Tenjin-yama), 179.
Mongol invasion, 34, 55.
Minato-gawa, 282, 283 j 42.
Monju, 31.
Mine, 58.
Monzeki temi)les, 84, 90.
Mine no Yakushi, 325.
Moon Temple, 280.
Mino, 282.
Mori^ 426.
Minobu, 128;43.
Mori, Viscount, 249.
Mint, 284.
Morioka, 198.
Mio Jinja, 350.
Moritsnka, 59.
Miomote valley, 207, 431.
Moroda,, 147.
Mio no Matsubara, 260.
Mororan, 42o.
Misaka-toge, 137.
Morozaki, 246.
Misaki, 60, 112.
Morse, Prof. E.S., 2. 417.
Misen, 338.
Mortuary temples, 68, 83.
Mishima,, 110.
Moto-Aikai, 205.
Missions, 33, 365,411.
Moto-Makone, 102, 105.
Mississippi JBay, 59.
Motomiya, 184, 192.
Misumi, 404.
Motomura, 112.
Mitrfii, 405.
Motona, 180.
Mitajiri, 365.
Motonobu, 40.
Mitake (near Kofu), 122.
Motoori Norinaga, 252.
Mitake (on Nakasendo), 274.
Motosu, 120.
MitAke (near Ome), 126.
Motoyama, 272.
Mitford, A.B., 174, 282.
Muda, 339.
Mito, 173.
Muenzuka, 88.
450
Index.
MXJKADE-TAMA
Mukade-yama, 320.
Mukojima, 87.
Murakami, 207, 4f31.
Murasaki Shikibu, 43, 322.
Marayama, 117.
Murdoch, J., Pref,
Muryo-in, 78.
Museum (Ueno), 81.
Museum of Arms, 75.
Mushi-yu, 146.
Mutsuda, 339.
•"My Lord Bag-O'-Rice," 320.
Myogi-san, 141.
Myohoji, 93.
Myojin-ga-take, 100, 104.
Myojo-ga-take, 100, 104.
Myoken-dake, 388.
Myoken-zan, 347, 348.
Myoko-zan, 224.
Myoshinji, 294.
Myoto-seki, 250.
Mythology, 22, 350.
Nabari, 246.
Nabaeshima, 360.
Nabeshima family, 74.
Nabeshima Marquis, 396.
Nachi, 261.
Kae no taki, 224.
Nagahama (Fuji), 120.
Nagahama (Lake Biwa), 322; 228.
Nagahama (Shikoku), 375.
Nagakubo, 271 ; 220.
Nagano, 221.
Nagaoka (near Naoetsii), 226.
Nagaoka (Tokaido Ry.), 268.
Nagaoka no Tenjin, 314.
Nagao Pass, 107.
Nagasaki, 379.
Nagasawa, 138.
Nagata-ch5, 74.
Nagoya, 266.
Naiku temple, 251 ; 247.
Naishi-dokoro, 332.
Najima, 392.
Naka-dori, 77.
Nakagawa, 875.
Nakalzumi, 241.
Naka Kaido, 274.
NINNAJI
Nakamura, 207, 432.
Nakanojo, 147.
Nakano-maAshi, 241.
Nakanoshima, 284.
Nakasendo, 270 ; 140.
Nakatsu, 398.
Nakatsu-gawa, 274.
Nakatsu-mine, 374.
Naka-umi Lagoon, 349.
Naki-bori, 77.
Nambu, 202.
Namegawa, 273.
Nanae, 418.
Nanao, 229.
Nana-taki, 162, 163.
Naniwa, 288.
Nantai-zan, 163, 165, 166.
Nanzenji, 310.
Naoetsu, 225.
Nara, 324, 326 ; 4.
Narada, 132.
Narai, 272.
Narashino, 174.
Nara to Ise, 245.
Narita, 175.
Naruto, 355.
Naruto, Whirlpool of, 374.
Nashimoto, 110.
Nasu, 182, 192.
Nasuno-yama, 184.
Natsumi, 178.
Natsushima, 58.
Naimiann, Dr. E., 141, 205, 207, 432.
Naval Academy, 90.
Nawa-ike, 233.
Nebane, 244.
Neeshima, Rev. Joseph, 291.
Nekoya, 261.
Nemba, 120.
Nemuro, 426.
Nichiren, 43, 57, 92, 128, 130, 180.
Niegawa, 272.
Nihon-bashi, 77 ; 67.
Nihongi, 33.
Nihonmatsu, 192.
Ni-gwatsu-do, 327.
Niigata, 226.
Niijima, 113.
Niitsu, 226.
Nijo, Palace, 295 ; 287.
Nikko, 162.
Ninnaji, 294.
Inde^,
451
NINOTAIBA
Kinotaira, 100.
Nintoku Tenno, 287.
Ni-o, 31.
Nippara-gawa, 126.
Nippon Yusen Kwaisha, 3, 203, 211,
246, 276, 362, 411, 417, 423, 426.
Kirasaki, 136.
Nishino Buntaro, 249.
Nishi Hongwanji (Kyoto), 302.
Nishi Hongwanji (Tokyo), 90.
Ni'shi no Kyo, 381.
Nishinomiya, 269.
Nishi-no-umi (Fuji), 120.
Nishi-no-umi (Ghtizenji), 165.
Nishi Otani, 304.
Nitta Yoshisada, 44, 57.
Noboribetsu, 425.
Nobechi, 201.
Nobeoka, 405.
Nobiru, 211, 197.
Nobunaga, 44.
Nodori-san, 133.
Nogami, 139.
Nogata, 391.
Noguchi, 238.
Noheji, 201.
Nojima, 181.
Nojiri Lake, 223.
Nojiri (on Nakasendo), 274.
Nokendo, 58.
Nokogiri-yama, 179.
Nomugi pass, 235 ; 234.
Nonojuku, 203.
Norikura, 235, 231.
Normal School (Tokio), 77.
Norokawa, 134, 136.
North-East Coast, 214.
Northern and Southern Courts, 37 ;
35.
Northern Railway, 191.
Noshiro, 208.
Noto, 229.
Notogawa, 269.
Notsubara, 400.
Nozawa, 187.
Nozugawa, 110.
Numa-ga-ike, 106.
Numakunai, 200.
Numao, 149.
Numata, 171.
Numasu, 259 ; 108.
Kunobiki, 280.
OKATAKA
Nusbima, 354.
Nyoh5-zan, 163.
Nyoirinji, 387.
Nyo-i-rin Kwannon, 31.
Nyorai, 31.
0-Akan, 426, 428.
Oarai, 173.
Obaku-san, 317.
Obama, 386.
Obi Ginzan, 235.
Obu, 261.
Ochiai, 127.
Octagonal shrine, 72.
Oda, 396.
Odaki, 193.
Odate, 208.
Odawara, 98, 104.
Oenami, 355.
Oe-yama, 345.
Ofuji, 127.
Of una, 55, 61.
Ofunatsu, 176, 177.
Ofuruma, 222. '
Ogaki, 268.
Ogawa, 246.
Ogawa no Yumoto, 170.
Ogeyama, 374.
Oginohama, 211, 212.
Ogo, 151.
Ogoya, 375.
Oguni, 430.
0-Gwannon, 78.
Ohara, 171.
Ohashi, 397.
Ohiradai, 99.
Oi, 274.
Oigawa, 133, 264.
Oishi Kuranosuke, 73.
Oiso, 62.
Oita, 400.
Oiwake ^akasendo), 145, 271.
Oiwake (near Kyoto), 318.
Oji, 95.
Oji (Osaka-Nara Ry.), 331.
Ojigoku (Miyanoshita), 100, 103.
Ojigoku (Tateyama), 232.
Ojin Tenno, 40.
Okayama, 393.
452
Index.
OKAZAKI ,
PEKRY
Okazaki (Tokaidd), 264.
Onimia, 418.
Okazaki (Shikoku), 374.
Orio, 391.
Oki Islands, 349, 350.
Osaka, 283 ; 269.
Oki-no-shima, 27G.
Osaka (hill), 318.
Okitsu, 260.
Osaka-Nara Railway, 324.
Okkai, 171.
Osawa, 198.
Okubo (Shikoku), 373, 375.
Oshamambe, 416.
Okubo, Azalea Gardens, 95.
Oshima (Kishu), 275.
Okubo Hikozaemon, 263.
Oshima (Vries Island), 111.
Okubo Toshimichi, 74.
Oshima (Yezo), 423.
Okuni-nushi, 31.
Oshio, 429.
Okushiri, 423.
Oshu Kaido. 191, 200.
Okute, 274.
Oshuku, 199.
Okyo, 44.
Osore-zan, 201.
dmachi, 238.
Ota, 274.
Omae-saki, 275.
Ota Dokwan, 67.
Omagari, 204.
Otama-ga-ike, 106.
Omama, 151.
Otani, 269, 318.
0-Manago, 166 ; 164.
Ota Nobunaga, shrine of, 292.
Ome, 125. •
Otaru, 423.
Ome Hikage Kaidd, 126.
Otataneko, 333.
Ome Kaido, 125 ; 93.
Otoko-yama, 314.
Omi Hakkei, 318.
Otoku, 149.
Omine, 338.
Otome-toge, 103.
Omiya (in Chichibu), 139.
Otsu, 319 ; 269.
Omiya Junction, 140.
Outline tours, 48.
Omiya (Tokaido), 259 ; 121, 128.
Owada, 174.
Omiya Hachiman, 94.
Ovvaki-dani, 100.
Omogawa, 127.
Owami springs, 182.
Onahama, 188.
Owari Bay, 245, 275.
Omono-gawa, 204.
Oyama (mountain), 61.
Omori, 63.
Oyama (North Ky.), 192; 150.
Oyama (Tokaido Ry.), 259.
Omura, 897 ; 390.
Omuro (on Ho-d-zan), 134.
Oya shirazu Ko shirazu, 119.
Omnro Gosho, 294.
Ozaka, 288.
Omurb-zan, 109.
Ozawa-tdge, 431-.
Omuta, 393.
Ozu, 375.
Onamuji, 31, 849, 350.
Ongagawa, 391.
Oni-ga-j6, 345.
P
Oni-no-ike, 406,
Ono, 422.
Palace (Hakone), 105.
Onogawa, 235.
Palace (Kashiwabara), 832.
Onoki, 246.
Palaces (Kyoto), 287, 289, 295, 309.
Onogoro-jima, 354.
Palace (Tokyo), 75.
Ouomichi, 363.
Palmer, Major-Gen., 54.
Ono-niimachi, 188.
Paper Money, 5.
Ono no Takamura, 151, 253.
Pappenberg, 380.
Onsen, 386.
Pariahs, 88.
Onsen-ga-take, 388.
Passports, 3.
Ontake, 238 ; 231, 236.
Peak (Hakodate), 416, 417.
Cnuki, 178.
Perry, Commodore, 60 ; 1, 35, 54, 111.
Index,
455
PIB& STATION
Pier Station, 228.
Piratori, 425.
Plains of Heaven, 58.
Plymouth Bocks, 276.
Population, 47.
Poronai, 424.
Posts, 5.
Potteries, 242.
Pownall, C. A. W., Pref,
Provisions, 9.
Purchases, 12.
" Purification " of temples, 22.
Kailways, 11.
Baiko, 345.
Kakan, 81.
Basho-mon, 297, 345.
Bausu-zan, 423.
" Regular Routes," 4.
Reiheishi Kaido, 140, 152.
Rein, Dr. J. J., Pref. 2, 317.
Rendaiji, 111.
Rin Shihei, 210.
Rinzaiji, 262.
Rinzenji, 273.
Roads, 11.
Rock Island, 275.
Rokken, 245.
Rokko-san, 282.
Rokujuri-goe, 205, 432.
Rokumei-kwan, 75.
Rokuren, 861.
Roshana Butsu, 300. .
Russian Cathedral, 75.
Ryo Daishi, 83.
Ryogoku-bashi, 96.
Ryomo Railway, 150.
Ryoseki, 373.
Ryo-un-kaku, 87.
Byugeji, 261.
Ryuzai-toge, 336.
Ryuzan-jita, 238.
Ryuzu-ga-taki, 166.
s
Sado, 226.
Saga, 896.
Sagami peninsula, 60.
Saga no Shakado, 295.
Saidaiji, 331.
SABtJHASHI
Saigawa, 220.
Saigo, 44, 401, 407.
Saijo, 366, 375.
Saijoji, 104.
Sai^o, 67, 287.
Sail Rock, 423.
Sai-no-kawara, 149.
Saitama, 140.
Saiiki, 404.
Sakai (Matsue), 349.
Sakai (Mikuni), 228.
Sakai (near Fuchu), 93, 94.
Sakai (near Osaka), 280, 344.
Sakamoto (Lake Biwa), 319, 323.
Sakamoto (Nakasendo), 271.
Sakanashi, 401.
Sakashita, 240.
Sakata, 205.
Sakawa-gawa, 100.
Sakayori, 173.
Sakon no sakura, 290.
Sakunami, 202.
Sakura, 174.
Sakurai, 333.
Sakurajima, 408.
Sakura Sogoro, 174.
Sambe-yama, 351.
Sambongi, 201.
Sambon-matsu, 245.
Sammai-bashi, 105.
Sandanda, 395.
Sanetomo, 47.
Sangu Tetsudo, 246.
San-gwatsu-do, 327.
San-indo, 347.
Sanjo, 225.
Sanjo, Prince, 79.
San-ju-rok-ka-sen, 80.
San-ju-san-gen-do, 299.
San-kei, 209, 347.
Sanno, 31.
San-no-he, 201.
Sannomiya, 269, 279.
San-no-sawa, 149.
Sanno temple, 74.
Sano (Temmyo), 150.
Sano (Tokaido Bailway), 259, 107.
Sanyo Railway, 358.
Sapporo, 424.
Saratoga Spit, 275.
Sarufuto, 425.
Saruhashi, 124.
454
Index.
8ABUSAW1.
Sarusawa no Ike, 330.
Sarushima, 58.
Saruta-yama, 383.
Saru-tora-hebi, 316.
Sasebo, 385.
Sashide, 140.
Satake Yashiki, 87.
Satomi Awa-no-kami, 97.
Satow, Ernest, Pref., 25.
Satsuma Rebellion, 45, 401, ct pass.
Sawai, 126.
Sawara, 176.
Sawatari, 147, 149.
Sects, 25.
Seido, 77.
Seishikaga, 427.
Seiryuji, 295.
Seizu-Gwaisha, Pref.
Seki (Kwansei Ry.), 254, 245.
8eki (near Yokohama), 58.
Sekido, 93.
Seki-ga-hara, 268.
Sekigawa, 223.
Sekimoto, 104.
Sekiya, 182.
Sekiya, Professor, 185.
Sekiyama (near Sendai), 202, 203.
Sekiyama (Naoetsu Ry.)» 225.
Semi-maro, 819.
Seminary (at Kdya-san), 343.
Semiyama, 374.
Semmaya, 215.
Sendai, 195 ; 9.
Sendai-gawa, 410.
Sendai Hagi, 196.
Sengen, 31.
Sengen temple, 262.
Seugen-toge, 140.
Sengen-yama, 99.
Sengoku-hara, 103.
Senjo-ga-hara, 166.
SenjG-ga-take, 345.
Senkoji, 354.
Sen-no-Rikyii, 286.
Sen-yuji, 299.
Senzau, 353.
Senzoku, 92.
Senzu, 112.
Sessho^gawara, 149.
Sessho-seki (Nasuno), 184.
Sessho-seki (Nikko), 163.
Sesshu, 45.
SUINJIKU
Seta, 320.
Seto, 242, 268.
" Seven High IMountains," 268.
Seven Isles of Izu, 111.
Shaka>ga-take, 338.
Shaka Muni, 31.
Shakotan, 423.
Shakuj6-ga-take, 254.
Shana, 427.
Shari, 428.
Sharihotsu, 32.
Shari-yama, 280.
Shiba, 68.
Shiba Onko, 175.
Shibetcha, 427.
Shibetsu, 428.
Shibu, 149.
Shibukawa, 171.
Shibuta, 344.
Shibutami, 200.
Shichi Fukujin, 32.
Shichimen-zan, 130.
Shichi-no-he, 201.
Shigeoka, 405.
Shigi-sen, 324.
Shi-gwatsu-do, 327.
Shiken-jaya, 336. •
Shikine, 113.
Shikoku, 371.
Shima (near Ikao), 147.
Shimabara, 389.
Shimashima, ^20, 235.
Shimizu, 261.
Shimmachi (Kyushu), 405.
Shimmachi (near Nagano), 287.
Shinmiachi (near Takasaki), 140.
Shinunei-mae, 68.
Shimoda, 111.
Shimodate, 172.
Shimo-Gamo, 312.
Shimohara, 236.
Shimomura, 126.
Shimonoseki, 366.
Shimonoseki Affair, 365.
Shimonoseki Straits, 361.
Shimo-no-Suwa, 271.
Shimosa, 171.
Shinagawa, 63.
Shinano-gawa, 221.
Shinano-toge, 234.
Shin-Fuji, 92.
Shinjiku-Hachidji Railway, 94.
Index.
455
SHINJIKU JUNCTION
Shinjiku Junction, 64.
Shinjiko Lagoon, 349.
Shinjo (in Uzen), 203.
Shinjo (on Hamana Lagoon), 264.
Shinka-den, 332.
Khinnyo-do, 312.
Shinobazu, 80.
Shinobu Mojizuri, 193.
Shinobu-yama, 193.
f5hinran Shonin, 46, 74.
i^hiuto religion, 21.
Shinto revival school, 248, 332.
Shin-yu (Hakone), 102.
Shin-yu (Tochinoki), 402.
Shiobara, 182.
Shiogama (near Sendai), 209 ; 196.
Shiogama (Shiobara), 182.
Shiokawa, 429.
»Shiojiri, 272.
8hiokoshi, 206.
Shio Misaki, 276.
Shionada, 271.
Shio-no-ue, 131.
Shionoyu, 182.
Shipment of curios, 13.
Shirahama, 181.
Shiraishi, 194.
8hiraka\va, 192.
iShirakawa valley, 233.
Shirane-san CKoshu), 133.
Shirane-san (Kusatsu), 150»
Shirane-san (Nikko), 170; 106.
Shiraoi, 426.
Shiribetsu, 423.
Shiriuchi, 421.
Shiroyama, 407.
Shishido, 109.
Shita Kaido, 274.
Shi-Tenno, 32.
Shizuku-ishi, 199.
Shizuoka, 262.
Shodaiji, 331.
Shodo Shonin, 153 ; IfiO.
Shogun-zuka, 306.
Shaji, 120.
Shomu Tenno, 329.
Shunai, 206.
Shokonsha, 75.
Shooting, 14.
Shotoku Taishi, 46.
Shoun, 88.
Shozuka no Baba, 29.
SUZUKAWA
Shozushima, 366, 369.
Shubun, 46.
Shugaku-in, 314 ; 287.
Shusui, 174.
Shuten Doji, 345.
Shuzenji, 110.
Simon Condera, 392.
Skeleton tours, 48.,
Sobo-san, 404.
Soga Brothers, 101, 106.
Soga no Iruka, 336.
Soida, 394.
Soma-yama, 146.
Soneiji, 97.
Sonobe, 344.
Sonogi, 390.
Sori, 169.
Soscn, 46.
Somen no taki, 160, 161.
Soya, 428.
Spex Straits, 362.
Sport, 14.
Steam communication, 2, etpass.
Steamer voyages, 276, 359.
Subashiri, 117 ; 116.
Suburban Railway, 64.
Sugawara-no-Michizane, 32, 327.
Sugita, 69.
Suinin Tenno, tumulus of, 326.
Sujin Tenno, tumulus of, 334,
Sukagawa, 170.
Sukumo-gawa, 106.
Sukuna-Blkona, 32.
Suma, 281.
Sumaki, 183.
Sumida-gawa, 89.
Sumiyoshi ^near Kobe), 269, 282. .
Sumiyoshi (near Osaka), 286.
^Lgummer resorts, 12.
^^^Sum
Sumoto, 364 ; 353.
Sun-Goddess, 27, 22, 248.
Suruga-dai, 76.
Susaki no Benten, 89.
Susa-no-o, 32, 351.
Suwa (near Kusatsu), 149.
Suwa Lake, 272.
Suvrara, 273.
^uwa-yama (Kobe), 280.
Suyama, 118.
Suzukawa, 269 ; 121, 128.
456
Index.
TABATAMA
T&bajftma, 127.
Tabiishi-yama, 850.
Tachibana-ura, 374.
Tachikawa, 94, 125.
Tadotsu, 366.
Tagawa-yu, 207.
Tago-no-ura, 260.
Taguchi, 223.
Taiko Hideyoshl, 38.
Taik5-yama, 102.
Taisanji, 281.
Talshaku, 32.
Tai-no-ura, 181.
Taira, 188.
Tajikara-o, 248.
Tajimi, 243.
Takaboko, 380.
Takachiho-dake, 409.
Takada, 331.
Takahara-gawa, 232.
Takahara-yama, 183.
Takahira, 171.
Takama no hara, 177.
Takamatsu, 367.
Takami-toge, 339.
Takamori, 404.
Takao, 182.
Takaoka (near Hacbioji), 229.
Takaozan, 95.
Takao-zan (near Kyoto), 294.
Takara-dera, 314.
Takara-zoka, 281.
Takasaki, 140.
%kasaki-Yokokawa Bailway, 140.
Takase, 393.
Takashima, 384.
Takata, 225.
Takata no Gob5, 257.
Takatori, 337.
Takatori-yama, 281.
Takayama, 233.
Takeda, 400.
Takeda Shingen, 122.
Takefu, 228.
Take-mikazuchi, 177, 326.
Takenouchi no Sukune, 46.
Takeo, 391.
Takeshita, 405.
Takeioyo, 246.
TEN PROVINCE PASS
" Tales of Old Japan," 174, 282.
Tamagawa, 93.
Tamagawa valley, 125.-
Tama-yori-hime, 813.
Tamuke-yama, 327.
Tamura Maro, 210, 305
Tanabe Sakuro, 318.
Tanegawa, 398.
Tani, General, 401.
Tanjoji, 181.
Tanno, 375.
Tanoara, 365.
Tan-yu, 40.
Tanzawa, 100, 102, 104.
Tariff, 3.
Tar6bo,"116.
Tarui, 268.
Tateishi, 398.
Tateno-mura, 402.
Tateishi-zaki, 228.
Tateoka, 203.
Tateshina-yama, 138.
Tateyama (Boshu), 180.
Tateyama (Etchu), 231.
Tatsuta, 326.
Tatta, 326.
Tawara Toda Hidesato, 320.
Tawara-zaka, 394.
Taya no Ana, 60.
Tea-houses, 8.
Telegraphs, 5.
Temiya, 428.
Temmangu, 32.
Temmyo, 150.
Tempai-zan, 393.
Temple architecture, 28, 26.
Te-nazuchi, 351.
Tendo, 202.
Tenga-jaya, 286.
Tenjin, 82.
Tenjin-toge, 147^
Tenjin temple (Osaka), 284.
Tenjin-yama, 179.
Tenjin Teuuo, tumulus of, 318.
Tenkai Daisojo, 159.
Tennoji, 285.
Tenno no Mori, 355.
Tenno-zan, 314.
Tenoko, 430.
Tenryu-gawa, 240, 264.
Tenryiiji, 295.
Ten Province Pass, 106, 108.
Index.
457
TERADOMASI
Teradomari, 225.
Terai, 228.
Tesshuji, 261.
Thirty-three Places of Kwannon,
253.
Toba, 251.
Toba Sojo, 46.
Tochigi, 150.
Todaiji, 328 ; 82.
Todohokke, 420.
Tofukuji, 299.
Togakushi-san, 222.
Togo-ike, 349.
Toji, 297.
Toji-in, 293.
Tokaido, 257 ; 105, 110.
Tokei, 63,67.
Tokimata, 240.
Tokitsu, 383.
Tokiwa, 41.
Tokugawa Shoguns, 39, 68.
Tokudhima, 373.
Tokusue, 395. *
Tokyo, 63, 67 ; 3, 8, 9.
Tokyo Fu, 68.
Tokyo-Takasaki- Yokokawa Railway,
140.
Tokyo- Yokohama Railway, 62.
Tomakomai, 425.
Tomari, 348.
Tombs of the Shoguns, 68, 83, 155,
158.
Tomioka (near Yokohama), 59.
Tomioka (Shikoku), 374.
Tomiyama, 210.
Toncgawa, 192 ; 64.
Tono, 215.
Tonoki, 138. >
Tonokuchi, 184, 194.
Touomine, 385. *
ToDosawa, 99.
Tora Gozen, 101. •
Torigawa, 320.
Torii-toge (Kusatsu), 150.
Torii-toge (Nakasendo), 272.
Toro, 427.
Tosu, 393, 396.
Tosawa, 109.
Toshima, 113.
Toshogfi, 33, 72.
Totomi, 265.
Totsuka, caves of, 60.
UEDA
Tottori, 348.
Toyama (Etchu), 230, 281.
Toyama (Nikko), 161.
Toyohashi, 265.
Toyohira, 424.
Toyokuni no Yashiro, 301.
Toyokuno, 253.
Toyooka, 348.
Toyo-uke-bime, 33, 248.
Toyono, 222 ; 149.
Toyoura, 865.
Travelling expenses, 7.
Treaty limits, 3.
Treaty ports, 3.
Tsu, 252 ; 246.
Tsubarai, 136.
Tsuboi, S., 96.
Tsuboya, 408.
Tsuchizaki, 203.
Tsuda Sanzo, 319.
Tsugaru Fuji, 208.
Tsugaru Straits, 415.
Tsugaru-zaka, 209.
Tsugawa, 186.
Tsuge (Kwansei Ry.), 254.
Tsuge (Kyushu), 404, 411.
Tsukigase, 330, 336.
Tsukiji, 90 ; 67.
Tsukuba, 172.
Tsukue, 367.
Tsumago, 274. ,
Tsuna, Watanabe no, 345.
Tsunagi, 429.
Tsunomiya, 176.
Tsuri-bashi, 128.
Tsuruga, 228.
Tsuru-ga-oka, 205, 431.
Tsurugi-saki, 275.
Tsurugi-yama, 375.
Tsurumi-yama, 399.
Tsurusaki, 406.
Tsushima, 411, 412.
Tsutaki, 137.
Tsuyutare Pass, 138, 139.
Tumuli, 332 ; 326, 829, 334, 355, et
pass.
Ubago, 102.
Udo, 404.
Udoma, 113.
Ueda, 220.
u
458
Index.
UEKI
Ueki, 394.
Ueno, 79.
Uenohara, 124.
Uesugi Konshin, 122, 194.
Uesugi Norizane, 151.
Uji (near Kyoto), 315.
Uji (Yamada), 246.
Uke-mochi no Kami, 33, 248.
Ukon no tachlbana, 290.
Uma-gaeshi (Fuji), 116.
Uma-gaeshi (Nikko), 1C4.
Umba-ga-take, 432.
Umewaka, 87.
Ume-yashiki, 89.
Ijmidaira,'l07.
Umijiri (Hakone), 102.
XJmijiri (Iwasake Gorge), 138.
XJmi-no-kuchi, 139.
University, 77.
Unna, 24i.
Uno, 339.
Unzen, 380.
Uomi, 109.
Uotsu, 230.
Uraga, 60.
Uraga Channel, 275.
Urakami, 383.
Urami, 162.
Urashima, 346 ; 273.
Urawa, 140.
XJreshino, 390.
Usa-no-Hachiman, 398.
Usu, 423, 425.
Usui, 174.
Usui Pass, 140, 142.
Utsubusa, 128.
Utsunomiya, 192.
Uwajima, 375.
Uzumasa, 294.
Uzura, 422.
Uzu-toge, 430.
\r
Venus Hill, 382.
Vladivostock, 412.
Volcano Bay, 425.
Vriea Island, 111.
w
Wada (Ito), 109, 111.
Wada (Nakasendo),. 271.
Wada (near Tateyauia), 180.
TAMASHINA
Wada-no-ha, 212.
Wada-toge, 271.
Wakamatsu, 187.
Waka-no-ura, 344.
Wakasa-no-I, 328.
Wakasare-no-Chaya, 144.
Wakayama, 344.
Wakimachi, 373.
Wakura, 229.
Wakuya, 196.
Walter, James, 60.
Wami-toge, 144.
Washi-ga-su, 207.
Washizu, 265.
Watarase-gawa, 168.
Weights and measures, 5.
West coast, 227 ; 3, 9.
Weston, Rev. Walter, Pref.
Whitney, Dr. W. N., Pref., 6.
Will Adams, 59, 283, 286.
Xavier, St. Francis, 33, 36, 400.
Yabake Valley, 393.
Yabuhara, 273.
Yachigashira, 417.
Ya-daijin, 24.
Yaegaki Jinja, 351.
Yagami, 389.
Yainai-cho, 335.
Yakeyama (Yezo), 419.
Yakeyama peninsula, 201.
Yakushi-dake, 135.
Yakushi-ji, 331.
Yakushi Nyorai, 33.
Yamada (Ise), 246 ; 244.
Yamada (N.E. coast), 215.
Yamada-toge, 150.
Yamae, 394.
Yamagata, 202, 205.
Yamagata (near Bandai-san), 184,
194.
Yamaguchi, 365.
Yamakita, 259.
Yamanojo, 410.
Yamaoka Tetsutaro, 261.
Yamashina, 318.
Index.
459
TAMASHIBO
Yamashiro, 228.
Yamato, through, 331.
Yamato-meguri, 334.
Yamato-take, 46, 143.
Yamura, 124.
Yanagizawa-mura, 199.
Yao, 324.
Yari-ga-take, 236; 231.
Yasaka, 32.
Yasaka Pagoda, 305.
Yashiro (Naoetsu Ry.), 220.
Yashiro (Kyushu), 409.
Yasuhira, 47.
Yasukuni temple, 74.
Yata no JizO, 311.
Yatsu-ga-take, 139.
Yatsushiro, 404.
Yawata (Shikoku), 373.
Yawata (near Tokyo), 174.
Yebisu, see Ebisu.
Yedo, 89, 63, 67.
Yezo, 413 ; 12, 15.
Yodogawa, 284, 316.
Yoichi, 423.
Yoio no Mori, 252.
Yoita, 226.
Yoka-ichiba, 131.
Yokkaichi, 246 ; 244.
Yokogawa, 410.
Yokohama, 53 ; 3.
Yokokawa, 142.
Yokose, 375.
Yokosuka, 69.
Yokote, 204.
Yokoya, 148.
Yonago, 349.
Yonezawa, 194, 429, 430.
Yorii, 139.
Yoritomo, 46, 47, 55, 158.
Yoshida, (near Fuji), 117, 124.
Yoshida (Kyushu), 410.
Yoshida no Yasluro, 312.
Yoshiie, 198.
Yoshijima Jinja, 337.
Yoshino, cape, 421.
Yoshino (Koshil Kaido), 124.
Yoshino (in Yamato), 336.
Yoshino-gawa, 336.
ZUSHI
Yoshioka, 421.
Yoshitsune, 47.
Yoshiwara, 87.
Yudono-san, 205, 432.
Yuensan, 412.
Yubutsu, 425.
Yufu, 399.
Yu-ga-shima, 110, 111.
Yugyo-dera, 258.
Yujima (Hayakawa valley), 132.
Yukiai-gawa, 57.
Yume no Uki-hashi, 299.
Yumoto, (Hakone), 98.
Yumoto (Ikao), 146.
Yumoto (Nikko), 166.
Yumoto (near Tateyama), 238.
Yumura, 348.
Yu-no-hana-zawa, 101.
Yunokawa, 418.
Yunosawa (Hakodate), 418.
Yunosawa (Karuizawa), 144.
Yu-no-taki, 166.
Yunotan, 402.
Yunotani, 373.
Yura (in Awaji), 354 ; 276, 352.
Yura (on Sea of Japan), 346.
Yuragawa, 346.
Yurappu, 415.
Yushima, 348.
Yushu-kwan, 75.
Yutenji, 92.
Zaragoe, 238.
Zaru-ga-dake, 132.
Zempukuji, 74.
Zeni-kake-matsu, 253.
Zenki and Goki, 338.
Zenkoji, 221.
Zenshoji, 281.
Zeze, 320.
Zdjoji, 71.
Zo-o-do, 337.
Zoological Gardens, 83.
Zuijin, 24.
Zushi, see Dzuslii.
ERRATA AND ADDENDA,
P. 63. — Under Steam CiynMnunicaiion, note that Samuel, Samuel &
Co. are now the Agents for the ' Shire ' line of steamers, and Dodwell,
Carlill & Co. for the ' Castle ' line, instead of Adamson, Bell A Co.
P. 54. — Under Newspapers, add 'The Japan Daily AdverHaer' and
' The Box of Curios.'
P. 63. — Under Hotels, note that the Imperial Hotel is now also
styled the TeUcoku Hotel.
P. 73, 1. 3 from bottom of left col. Note that the wooden Kiri-
shima-yama is being demolished.
P. 99, 1. 18. For hiji-mono, read hiji-^mono,
P. 186, 1. 2. For 1873, read 2783.
P. 194. — Under Bandai-aan, note that the first night should be spent
at Hibara, and the excursion over Bandai be made on the next day.
P. 288, 1. 3 from bottom of left col. After Katmrw^nc'Rikyu, add
Nishi Hongwanji and Higashi Hongwanji.
ADVERTISEMENTS.
Advertisements.
mmi lem,
LIMIXED.
Dos. U, U, Bniid,
aid 20. Moliaia.
THE TABLE D'HOTE
^irsi-ffass ^rench ^hef de ^ttisine.
Large Dising Room will seat 300 Guests.
TJBLE TOES, BORDEAUX, BOURCOTIE Am CMMPAGHE.
The BEADING and BILLIARD ROOMS are oi Lottj and Spacioua
dimensions and afford a pleasant retreat for guests during their' stay.
No espenae has been spaced, and particular care has been taken by
tlie Company in the construction of the New Building to adopt the latest
SAHITAET IMPROVEMENTS. The BATHS, ESPECIALLY, are
unanrpassed.
Unlimited accommodation for BANQUETS and PRIVATE DIN-
NEE PARTIES, at the shortest notice.
A STEAM LAUNCH, under European superrision, attends all out-
going and incoming Steamers, thus ensuring the safe transit of Passen-
gers' luggage through the Customs and conveyauce to the Hotel, without
trouble to the owners.
The Grand Hotel, Limited.
LOUIS EPPINGER, MANAGER.
Advertisements,
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We the Tindersiffned guides of Yokohama and Kol^e, have Ijanded ourselves toge-
ther to form an association called "KAIYUSHA," We have been prompted to this
by the constant increase of travellers through Japan and the difficulty which has
often been experienced in securing competent and trustworthy guides.
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The company holds itself responsible for the character and ability of all ^ide*
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In order to avoid delay and inconvenience we request tourists to apply for the
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and two or three hours before a short trip.
Guides can meet travellers at any place, if requested to do so by letter or telegram.
If any particular guide is desired and mentioned in the application he will respond, if
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In all cases the guide's travelling expenses must be paid by employer and he is to-
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NAMES OF LICENSED GDIDES :
GRAND HOTEL AND CLUB HOTEL,
YOKOHAMA.
T. Ito.
S. Suzuki.
K. Matsuda.
S. Ohashi.
F. Takagaki.
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W. MuTO.
K. T. FuKUVAMA, (or Tora.)
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Tajima Kobe.
Y. F. Shimidzu.
HiRATA MaTSU.
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OSHIMA MiTSU.
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NO. 71, MOTOMACHI,
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KAIYUSHA OFFICES
NO. 211, MOTOMACHI,
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The Booms being well ventilated, commodious, and furnished with
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It Tokobama tbe Steam Launch attends all Anrivals & Departures.
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On Daily Balance ..
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6 „ 47
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if
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The Bank has Agents also in all the principal towns in Australia,
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Agencies and Branches, Travellers' Letters of Credit issued. Bills of
Exchange purchased and received for collection, and every description
of Banking business transacted.
J. R. PARSONS,
Yokohama, 1891. Agent, Yokohama,
8 Advertisements.
A. FARSARI & Co.,
No. i6, BUND.
BETWEEN THE GRUD HOTEL, L'i, UDDEAKDI BROS. & Co., L'd.
Portraits — Groups— Houses.
Beproductions— Bnlargements.
Inatantataneous Photographs.
Transparencies— Xjantem Slides.
Portraits in Coistomes.
We have suitable dresses for Ladies and Gentlemen, and furniture;
jinrikislia, etc., for taking portraits and groups in Japanese costume.
"No extra charge is made for these.
THE BEST PHOTOSRAPHS OF VIEWS AND COSTUMES OF JAPAN.
We are the only photographic artists in Japan who have been accorded
permission to take views of the Imperial Gardens (Fitkiage) in Tokio.
In consequence we are in possession of the most beautiful and
complete set of negatives of views of places generally visited by tourists
and residents.
As we are sure that, when our photographs have been compared
with others, one wiU not purchase elsewhere, we respectfully request
that every studio in Yokohama be visited by intending purchasers before
making a selection.
The colors were carefully noted at the time that photos of temples
and other structures were taken, and we are the only ones who paint
them as they really are.
We also call particular attention to the fact, that we are the only
photographers that deliver pictures equally ^s well painted as those
exhibited in our sample albums or frames.
Photographic printing hy permanent processes done only by us.
NOTICE TO AMATEUR PHOTOGRAPHERS.
We have a dark room free of charge at the disposal of amateur
photographers.
Developing negatives taken by amateurs on plates or film, and
printing promptly done at moderate prices.
We guarantee the permanency of all our photographs, which are
made of the best imported materials.
Advertisements,
NIPPON
ttsen
mnhu.
CAPITAL
$11,000,000.
PRESIDENT
M. MORIOKA,
Esq.
VICE-PRESIDENT
T. YOSHIKAWA,
Esq.
DIRECTOR
K. XJCHIDA,
Esq.
»f
M. ASADA,
Esq.
»»
R. KONDO,
Esq.
ft • . . • • •
M. KATO,
Esq.
M •
A. MACMILLAN
Esq. (absent.)
BRANCH OFnCES AT THE PRINCIPAL PORTS IN JAPAN AND AT SHANGHAI,
FUSAN,.6ENSAN AND JINSEN, AND AGENCIES AT HONGKONG,
CHEFOO, TIENTSIN AND WLADIWOSTOGK.
HEAD OFFICE
TOKYO.
The Japan Mail Steamship Company possesses a fleet of First
Class large and full powered steamships, fitted with the latest improve-
ments for the comfoyt and convenience of passengers. Steamships
carrying the Imperial Japanese Mail leave Yokohama and Shanghai,
via Kobe, the Inland Sea and Nagasaki once a week; and between
Nagasaki, Corean Ports, Chefoo, Tientsin and Wladiwostock according
to time-tables. The home service comprises almost daily communication
between the chief ports of the Empire, for aU of which foreign travellers
may procure passports without difficulty or expense.
For information in regard to freight, passage, sailings, &c., apply
at any of the Branches or Agencies, or at the Head Office in Tokyo,
where full particulars on aU points may be had.
10 Advertisements.
Canadian Pacific Railway SteamsMps.
CHINA AND JAPAN LINE.
YOKOHAMA TO VANCOUVER, B.C., IN 10 DAYS.
The Royal Mails between HONGKONG, SHANGHAI,
YOKOHAMA and VANCOUVJER, B.C., are carried
by the Company's Steamships
'* EMPRESS OF INDIA " 6,000 Tons, 10,000 Horse Power.
" EMPRESS OP JAPAN " ...6,000 „ 10,000
"EMPRESS OF CHINA*' ...6,000 „ 10,000
These Steamers have been specially built to carry out the
Mail Contract with the Imperial Government. They are Twin
Screw Vessels of great speed, and the arrangements for Passengers
are most complete and luxurious.
■
For farther information^ apply to :
FRAZAR & Co. at Yokohama, Kobe and Nagasaki, Agents
in Japan.
DODWELL, CARLILL & Co., Shanghai and Hongkong,
Agents in China.
Any Office of the CANADIAN PACIFIC RAILWAY in
Canada, United States, or Europe :
And to Messrs. THOS. COOK & SONS, TOURIST AGENTS,
with Offices in all Parts of the World.
GEO. B. DODWELL,
Genei'ol Agent, China and Japan,
Hongkong, April, 1891.
r
Advertisenunts, 11
YoMama Printing and MlisMng Co.,
LIMITED.
PRINTING OF EVERY DESCRIPTION
EXECUTED AT SHORTEST NOTICE.
The advantage that this Coinpany has over any other
^Printing OflB.ce in Japan for expedition is that it possesses
a first class PRINTING MACHINE, by
DRIVEN BY
A PRIESTMAN'S OIL STEAM ENGINE.
'•>o<*-
SHIRT MANUFACTURER.
LISEH AHD WOOLEN PAHERS OF THE LATEST STYLE.
FiMBBi €QMBm €rm^0 MkMM,
SUITABLE FOR SUMMER WEAR.
JJO J^ BENTEN-DORl^NICHOME. Ijg J^
TOKIO,
JAPAN.
TSIS m HOTEL
Is situated within five minutes' tlrivo ot the termiDus of the Yokohama-
Tokio railway, and is in nsar prosjmity to the Imperial Palace, the
Parliament House, and the chief Public Offices. It is, in fact, in the
heart of the best quarter of Tokio, and centrally situated with respect to
the chief objects and places of interest in the City and its Suburbs.
■ It is arranged and furnished to aSord visitors every convenience and
comfort, under experienced management. In the design and construc-
tiou of the buildiug. special attention ha.s keen given to protection
against earthquake shocks, according to the best modem scientific practice.
The need of a really first-class Hotel, adapted to foraign tastes and
requirements, has long been felt by visitors to Japan's Capital. The
Imperial Hotel is designed to satisfy that need in the fullest degree. It
is unrivalied for its comfort, as well as for its excellent cuisino and wines,
at moderate cliarges.
Carriages and Jinrikishas are kept on the Hotel premises, for the use
of guesta, at a fixed tariff. There is also a sCafi of guaranteed and
akillad guides.
AdvertiMmenU, 13
Airy. Quiet. COMFORTABLE. eottuenieot.
TOKYO HOTEL,
Hibijamon-ucM, Tokyo, Japan.
^^^OCATED near Foreign Legations and Offices, and
V
Close to the Chief Points of Interest, and the
Principal Places of Business.
CHARGES MODERATE. "^
MWMAMATBW M&TEL, '
IKAO, JOSHU.
^ HE Proprietor begs to inform the Foreign Public that his
k^ Hotel now contains Thirty-five Booms, well Furnished in
a most Comfortable and Handsome manner, and suitable to the
requirements of Foreign Visitors.
Separate Bath Rooms are also constructed. Fresh and Pure
Provisions are daily supplied, imported direct from Tokio and
Yokohama ; Wines, Spirits, and Beer, of superior quality are
kept always on hand.
The Hotel has made arrangements with undermentioned
Banks, so that they may make payments in the receipt notes
issued by those Banks.
The Tanaka Bank of Sakamoto-<5ho, Nihonbashi-ku, Tokio,
and the Tanaka Branch Bank, Nichome Benten-dori, Yokohama.
Billiard Room, nicely fitted np. | Cbarges Exceedingly Moderate.
HOTEL,
UPPER NIKKO,
Taking 10 mlDates b; Ilnrlklslia Inim tlie M Lacquered Bridge.
LARGE AND COMFORTABLE HOTEL,
Just completed, is delightfully situated near the famous Temples
of leyasu and lemitsu, and is but a short distance above the
red lacquered bridge crossing the Daiya river on the road to
Irimaclii.
TME B&BMM ABE MAM&M,
well -ventilated and constructed in European style, are furnished
with Stoves during the Winter months, and can be engaged
either by post and telegram.
MEALS ARE SERVED IN EUROPEAN STYLE.
Advertisement.
%.
VICTORIA GAP, PEAK,
Adjoining the Tramway Terminus.
^HE MOST BEAUTIFUL POSITION IN THE ENVIRONS
tv. of Hongkong, situated 1,250 feet above Sea Level, com-
manding Magnificent Views of the City and Harbour of Victoria,
the mainland of China, and neighbouring Islands.
Cool Southerly breezes in Summer, with perfect protection
from N.E. winds in Winier.
THE BEST ACCOMMODATION FOR VISITORS,
With every Comfort, Convenience, and AtUntion.
THE CTJISIIDTE]
Is undisr the licst aupcrvision, and every luxury oblainahle is supplied.
WIISES, ETC.,
OF TEE BEST BRAKBS MB FISEST {tAUTIES OEY, ABE KEPT.
TEEMS MODEEATE.
PEU lOm IBD TRJIBWC COIPiBT, I'D., Proprietors.
16 Advertisements.
ORIENTAL HOTEL,
FIRST-CLASS HOTEL.
CUISINE AND CELLAR.
Steal Lanncli leets all Incoming & Ontgoing Steamers.
L. BEGEUX - - - (Proprietor and Manager.
Tj&k&Kj&uebea hotel,
JAPAN.
THIS FIRST-CLASS HOTEL
Occupies a healthy situation on the hill side, and lies amid some of the
most charminj^ scenery to be found in Japan, while the air is universaJ-
ly recommended by the Medical faculty for its bracing nature. In
<jonn(!ction with the Hotel are some famous HOT IRON BATHS much
sought after for their health-giving qualities.
WITH
WINES, BEERS, AND SPIRITS, OF THE BEST QUALITIES,
CAN BE OBTAINED AT REASONABLE TERMS.
TAKARADZUKA is one and a half hour by Rail and JinriJdsha
fiom Kobe, and no passports are required.
For terms apply to
A. EUQ'HES, llanageress.
1
AdvertUements,
17
LOO'
^^M:ii
o.
DEALER IN ALL KINDS OP
Of-
zJ^{?Uemm
^anm
Waie^
FINE THIN KIOTO PORCELAIN TEA SETS,
landPaintedPaper Lanterns & Lacquer Fans. (Harked Fixed Prices.)
JVo. 1^, Gion-machi, Kioto, Japan.
E. H. POWERS & Co.,
A^^ GA SAKI.
i^(ssm p COUNTEY PARTIES WILL FIND IT TO THEIR
ADVANTAGE TO CALL ON US AS WE HAVE
r ALL EEQUISITES FOR OUTINGS, VIZ. :—
PmwmmMB #
Cigars, Cigarettes, Tobacco, Wines, Beer, Reading Hatter, ftc, &c., ■
J gents for MESSRS. KELLY & WALSH, LO.
ALL FfiOVISIONS NOT USES CAIT BE BETUBITES.
18
AdvertuemmU,
NozawatA
m
19
No. 80, Bentendobi Nichome, Yokohama.
o
?
Iff
m
A Large Stock of SILKS, CRAPES, BROCADES,
EMBROIDERIES, Japanese Costumes, Specially
made to fit Foreigners,
SASHES, RAINBOW CRAPES,
A Beautiful Fabric, and Handkerchie&, in the Latest
Deagns, Always on Hand.
Orders executed with care and promptitude, at
Moderate Prices.
Wholesale and Retail-
NOZAWAYA'S RAINBOW CRAPES.
a
MARK
rp HE best qualities of this beautiful material can only be obtained of NOZAWAYA,
-*- by whom a First Class Medal was obtained at the Domestic Industrial Exhibi-
tion last year. For delicacy of tint and texture these Rainbow Crapes are unrivalled.^
and have been much admired and extensively purchased by several foreign ladies of
distinction, including H.R.H. the DUCHESS of CONNAUGH^T.
IS- CAUTION,
NOZAWAYA begs to inform the Ladies of Yokohama and Tokyo and Visitors to
Japan, that it has recently come to his knowledge that IMITATIONS of his
CxLXBBATXD Raiitbow C&apks are in the market, and that they liave been palmed off
upon the public as the genuine article. Nozawaya therefore invites all who desire the
real Rainbow Crapes to pay his Store a visit, where only the genuine material is to be
found, all being counterfeit that are not sold with the
TRADC'^MARK.
Advertuemenft.
LacquBr p^olographg,
IH7ENTB!D B7 MR. H. HIZUHO,
SCENERY
COSTUMES
COLOURED,.
PHOTOGRAPHS.
TaJain at Low
FliKUSUISHA, Ko. !3, Sakalclio, Ictome, Tokobana.
KOBE PHARMACY AND DISPENSARY,
WWff
No- 3, DIVISION STREET, KOBE
CHEMISTS ANDPHARMACOPOLISTS.
QUALIFIED AND REGISTERED CHEMISTS ONLY.
FerTiiDies, Toilet Articles, Patent Hedicines, Pocket Filters k Sondries.
£ng1iebje French 'Savt\», Boohs an ilapan/Sliittaiicrij & Guide Booha.
igents for Kell; k Valsb, LI, I igents for tbe Official lailvajf <t
Booksellers, Sc. | Traiellers' Guile, Ic.
ao
AdverUteitunti.
5
to
0
^
&e
m
§=»
s
^
1
§
^
^
^
^
^
g
5
Advertisenients.
21
THE
§^ronicfe anh pirecfortj
FOR
PIHES. IHDO-CHIMA. STRAITS SEmEHEKTS. SIAM. BORMEO,
1891— 29th Annual Issue.— Royal 8yo. pp. 1,100,
Price £1.5.0.
;^ IVES Historical, Descriptive and Statistical Accounts
^^ and Directories of Sixty Different Ports and
Places in the Far East, and 12 Maps and Plans.
Published at the " Hongkong Daily Pbess '* Office.
To be had through any Bookseller.
c/a
M&A WMTA MBTBEt
B
O
A
V
I
S
T
H
O
T
E
L
ADMITTED to be the Sanitarium of South
China, the best and healthiest spot in the
Bishop's Bay, Macao ; A comfortable Home for
families and gentlemen desiring to enjoy the benefit of
quietness and of a change of air in summer or winter.
Hot, Cold, Shower and Sea Baths.
WELL FURNISHED AIRY BEDROOMS, COMMODIOUS AND WELL
VENTIUTED DINING, BILLIARD AND READING ROOMS ;
WELL-STOGKED BAR.
A. SMALL DAIRY ATTACHED TO THE PREMISES.
•S" For Photos, of Hotel, see Eivor Steamer Saloons and
Hotels in the Far East.
B
O
A
V
I
S
'A
H
O
T
E
L
22 Advertisements.
LACQUER, BRONZES, CROCKERY,
AND
Also Yarions otber Mections of Cnrios, Botb New and Oil
Shinmonzen, Mumemoto-cho . . . Kioto, Japan.
Visitors are Invited to Inspect our Stock of Inlaid Iron, Chid
Lacqxterings, Cloisonnes, Metal Works, Satsuma Paintings and Decorations.
& tJt .M. ■%# 1l &
39, Higashi-im Miyoshi-cho, Yamato-oji, Ichome, Furumonzen, Kyoto.
LACQUERS, «itJ|)[|iJi^^| CROCKERIES,
...AND...
§i/A Mmbroidme^,
(3&
• • .OF. . •
A FXKS GO)C<li£€7IOH OF OURIOS.
^^ INSPECTION IS COBDTATiIjY INVTTBD.
Advertisements. 28
Z. P. MARUYA & CO,
PUBLISHERS, STATIONERS,
Imerican, EnropeaD, and Oriental Book-sellers, and
Library Agents.
ToiEzio, a"-A.:p.A.isr.
FUBLISEESS OF
HEPBURN'S Japanese-English and English-Japanese Dictionary:
Unabridged Edition. Demy 8vo.,-half Morocco Y. 7.60
Abridged Edition. 12m. cloth 2.00,
WHITNEY'S CONCISE DICTIONARY of the Principal
Eoads, Chief Towns and Villages of Japan, with Popula-
tions, Post Offices, etc. Crown 8vo. cloth 1.50
Ditto with appendix ... 2.50
INDEX OF CHINESE CHARACTERS in Hepburn's Die
tionary arranged to their radicals by W. N. Whitney, M.D.
^^ \7XXA V \j V v/ ■ ••• ••• ••• ••• ••• ••• ••■ ••• ••• ••• ••• ^Ja § %^
IMBRIE'S HAND-BOOK of EngHsh-Japanese Etymology.
Crown 8vo. cloth 1.50
NEW MAP OF TOKIO, with a Guide 0.50
EASTLAKE'S Easy Conversation in English, German, and
«i apanese ... ... ... O.oO
NEMOTO'S New and Practical Vocabulary and CONVERSA-
TIONS 'in the English, French, German and Japanese
liANlxUAGES 0.25
ARRIVET'S Le<jons de Conversation Japonais-Fran9ais 0.20
„ Dictionnaire Fran9ai8-Japonais 0.70
24
Advertisements,
THE
A. W. THOMPSON,
No. 18, AKASHI-CHO, Mo. 18,
Tsukiji
• Tokyo.
No. 7, Honcho, next door to -the Town Hall, ToMama.
!>
PMograpWc Views & Costumes of Japan.
ALMWM
Lacquered Board or Clotb, Cover Ready for Sale.
Advertisenwits. 2$
0kpsM
No. 9, Gnsoko-cbo, KyobasU-kn, Tokyo.
(L^^me
EGS to announce to the Foreign Public that for over 300
^^ years the pawn-broking business was carried on at the
above store and that, owing to the large quantities of goods
deposited in his premises, he opened the above as a fine art
store three years ago. The following are for disposal from his
extensive stock, at reasonable rates : —
WARLIKE IMPLEMEHT8, OLD COPPER,
60LB JiH0 SIX<?£E ORHAHEHT8,
Cloisonne, Famous Swords, Ivories,
CHOICEST JAPANESE AND CHINESE
poi<c&Iaiii^, pcpeen^, J^ntiqne pci<oII^,
8fcc., 8tc., otc.
Inspection by Foreign Connoisseurs RespectfoOy iniitel
^6 .AdtertiUements,
PATRONIZED BY
H. R. H. THE DUKE OF CONNAUGHT.
North & Rae, L'd.,
ENGLISH AND f'OREIGN
CHEMISTS,
(ESTABJilSHED 1863.)
American, Englisb and Continental Prescriptions Dispensed
according to tbelr RespectlTe PharmacopcBlas
Atkinson's, Lxindborg's and Finaud's Ferfiimes. Farina's
Qenuine Eau do Cologne.
« ■ •
Tolldt Bsc[ui§IUs of Et@i7 Sescrlptlos.
All American & European Patent Medicines & Proprietary-
Articles of Bepute kept in Stock.
Tourists supplied with all lands of Medical Eeqnisites for
up- Country ' Trips.
MANAGER - - R. W. BORTHWICE.
Advertisements.
KYOTO HOTEL,
siio K&w&jst&m&cmi,
KYOTO.
U. UATEDA Froprietoc.
THIS HOTEL,
Situated in the centre of Kyato, commands a splendid view
of all the Mountains surrounding the City. It is built on a
spacious plot of ground where was formerly the Office of Com-
merce and Agriculture. The locahty is well-known as one of the
moBt convenient parts of the City. The establishment is divided
into two parts, — one fine new foreign building luxuriously fur-
nished with every European requisite, and the other in elegent
e Style. '
Ttie Rooms are weU-ventilated.
WM0 Bmr muMBiMimM M&@m^
ASE FITTED UP IK A SVPEBIOR HANNEB.
THE CUISINE IS CONTROLLED
BY AN EXPERIENCED COOK, AND MEALS ARE
SERVED AT ALL HOURS.
/
n