captioning funded by cbs, and ford-- built for the road ahead. >> logan: colonel kurt crytzer, a veteran green beret of 23 years, flew with us over the seemingly endless jungle, where the area they're searching is as big as texas. he took command of the u.s. special operations mission here not long after president obama decided to send troops 18 months ago to track down the world's most wanted warlord. >> crytzer: the environment is some of the most unforgiving on planet earth. when you get to the jungle, 50 feet in, you disappear. >> logan: you're like a ghost. >> crytzer: you're like a ghost. >> stahl: could you show us the

difference between the fastball and the knuckleball, what the motion looks like? >> dickey: yeah, sure. be glad to. >> stahl: this is the fastball. see how it spins all the way to the catcher's mitt? now, watch the near-total absence of spin in r.a. dickey's knuckleball. from the time the ball leaves his hand, it rotates a mere quarter of one revolution. it's a pitch that's devilishly hard to control and won him the cy young award last season. >> ♪ blue texas skies keep shining down on me. ♪ >> safer: out on the lone prairie, a 200-mile drive from the nearest airport, stands marfa, population 2,000. the train doesn't stop here anymore, and, at first glance, the place may look half dead. but look closer.

marfa today is an eccentric tex- mex stew of art galleries, tourists, cowboys and characters. >> i'm steve kroft. >> i'meslie stahl. >> i'm morley safer. >> i'm bob simon. >> i'm lara logan. >> i'm scott pelley. those stories tonight on "60 minutes." we went out and asked people a simple question: old ithe oldest person you've known? we gave people a sticker and had them show us. we learned a lot of us have known someone who's lived well into their 90s. and that's a great thing. but even though we're living longer, one thing that hasn't changed: the official retirement age. ♪ the question is how do you make sure you have the money you need to enjoy all of these years. ♪ are everywhere around us.

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>> logan: very little is known about a sensitive mission being carried out by a hundred u.s. special operations troops deep in the jungles of central africa. they've joined several thousand african soldiers in one of the biggest manhunts that's ever taken place. their goal is to help kill or capture the world's most wanted warlord, joseph kony, and destroy his army. broader u.s. effort to counter the emerging threat to america from the growth of terrorist networks across africa. joseph kony has been on a murderous rampage that has lasted almost three decades,

killing thousands and building one of the biggest armies of child soldiers in history. kony started out in northern uganda, but his campaign has spread to four countries, and he's now operating in this vast, lawless area in the center of africa. our story, which includes images you may find disturbing, begins in the central african republic, with an elite tracking team from the ugandan military that's searching for kony in some of the most remote jungle on earth. you don't have to spend much time here to understand why it's so hard to find joseph kony. it's as isolated and unforgiving as it gets. the undergrowth so thick, every step is a battle. when our producer, jeff newton, joined this ugandan tracking team, they'd been searching for kony and his army-- called the

lord's resistance army, or l.r.a.-- for three months, tracking them the way you would an animal. >> kasim lukumbo: right now, we are searching for the enemy tracks. >> newton: footprints? >> lukumbo: yes, the footmarks of the l.r.a. >> newton: yeah. >> logan: 27-year-old lieutenant kasim lukumbo's sole mission for the past three years has been finding kony, and he's one of the ugandan army's top trackers. the footprints are the first sign they've seen of kony's army in six days. ( soldiers whispering ) as they followed the trail, the soldiers whispered so as not to give away their positions. after an hour, they reached this stream, but the tracks disappeared into the water. >> newton: no l.r.a.? >> ugandan soldier: no l.r.a. let's go back. >> newton: okay. >> logan: there were no green berets on this mission.

they do go out on operations like this, but they prefer to stay in the background. keeping a low profile is part of the u.s. strategy. >> col. kurt crytzer: they're the lead. they've always been the lead. we're relatively new here. we've only been here just about a year. it's really an african problem. it's being handled by africans. >> logan: colonel kurt crytzer, a veteran green beret of 23 years, flew with us over the seemingly endless jungle, where the area they're searching is as big as texas. he took command of the u.s. special operations mission here not long after president obama decided to send in troops 18 months ago. >> crytzer: the environment is some of the most unforgiving on planet earth. when you get to the jungle, 50 feet in, you disappear. >> logan: you're like a ghost. >> crytzer: you're like a ghost. >> logan: joseph kony was 26 when he disappeared into the jungle more than 25 years ago. since then, his army has wiped out entire villages and burned houses down with children inside.

they're known for cutting off the ears and lips of innocent people as a way to terrify them into submission. and no one has suffered more than theldren. the state department says kony's army has abducted more than 25,000. he turns the boys into killers, the girls into a harem of sex slaves and wives. this video of kony addressing his followers is one of the few times he's been filmed. he's from a religious family in northern uganda, an altar boy who became a witch doctor. when he started out, he wanted his lord's resistance army to establish a government based on the ten commandments, but he's broken almost every one of them and his army is little more than a murderous cult. >> crytzer: some things you just can't turn your... a blind eye to, and i believe this is one case of that. >> logan: the u.s. turned a blind eye to joseph kony for more than 20 years.

>> c: i n't account for why we did or why we didn't come. what i can tell you is, we are here now. >> ( singing ) >> logan: colonel crytzer and his men are the bridge between four african armies who are working to find kony and his fighters. these soldiers are from the central african republic where many people believe kony might be hiding. the americans train them in their native french, using the language skills that come with being a green beret. and they show them how to make the best of the little they have, like using their beret as a field dressing or a stick as a makeshift tourniquet. colonel crytzer says they have to know how to treat themselves or they die. >> crytzer: our guys bring support in small numbers. this is traditional advisory. this is something that looks like two american advisers out

with 40 ugandans on a tracking team. this is one guy going around throughout the villages to build relationships. >> logan: building relationships is central to the mission of green berets no matter where they are in the world. to earn the trust of the locals in these villages, colonel crytzer's soldiers use their skills in unlikely ways, helping out at the local dentist and even delivering babies. together with diplomats from the state department, they meet with the local tribes every day. >> crytzer: so, i thank you very much for sharing the information with us, helping provide the whereabouts of the l.r.a. >> logan: they're trained to help, and it's a chance to learn more about their targets. >> crytzer: if you think about our experiences with osama bin laden, we had some of the best platforms in the worlding in all the wrong places for eight years. in the end, it was human intelligence that led to him. in the end, it's going to be human intelligence here that leads to joseph kony. >> logan: he told us some of the human intelligence has comekein

call.or general the ugandan military granted us a rare interview with him. he's the highest-ranking l.r.a. commander ever to be taken alive and knows more than almost anybody about what kony's doing today. >> acellam: kony is only struggling for survival. >> logan: as kony fights for his survival, he's still killing people. he's still terrorizing villages. >> acellam: yes, he's doing it. >> logan: acellam, who claims he was abducted as a young man, spent 20 years with kony, and for much of that time he was his chief of intelligence. we pressed him on the role he played in the countless atrocities carried out in kony's name. you were part of an army that abducted children, that taught children to kill in a terrible way, to beat people to death, to crush their skulls, where young

girls were raped. did you witness that? >> acellem: i would say, in a sense. >> logan: not "in a sense." yes or no? >> acellam: there were a number of things that you might not have wanted to do, but you do it. and all these people were doing atrocities, do it under kony's instruction. >> logan: including you? >> acellam: under kony's instructions. >> logan: including you? >> acellam: yes. >> logan: acellam told us kony rules by fear and claims he has mystical powers, a formidable combination in the minds of the children he kidnaps. these young men were all soldiers in his army, rescued just a few months ago in the central african republic and brought home to northern uganda. they were all younger than 13 when they were taken from their families. >> franklin ( translated ): we were told this was god's war, so, out of fear of god, i believed everything i was told,

and i followed. >> logan: franklin, dennis and james all described a bizarre religious ceremony they had to undergo when they were initiated into kony's army. >> james ( translated ): when you just arrive, they smear some oil in the shape of a cross on your forehead here and on your chest and your back. and that's supposed to change you. >> logan: does it work? >> james ( translated ): yes, it works. it changes you completely. >> dennis ( translated ): it numbs any thought you may have. it kills everything. you just listen to what joseph kony says. >> logan: and what kony and his commanders told these young men to do is almost beyond description. >> franklin ( translated ): if a new abductee tries to escape, all of the children were ordered to bite them to death. >> logan: they would... they would bite them with their teeth? >> franklin: yes, until they died. >> betty bigombe: they wer

robbed of their rights as children. >> logan: and robbed of innocence. >> bigombe: robbed of theirince. >>ogan: betty bigombe has spent more than two decades trying to help uganda's child soldiers return to their families. she told us th is what northern uganda looked like just a few years ago-- entire villages of children on the move, driven by fear and walking for miles to sleep in a place where kony's army couldn't snatch them from their beds. for years, they would do this every night and return home in the morning. >> bigombe: you look at these children and say they cannot feel secure to think i can sleep without thinking of anybody coming in to abduct or to kill them. >> logan: did you hate kony for what he'd done? >> bigombe: oh, yes. oh, yes. >> logan: yet for many years, she's been the driving force behind the ugandan government's efforts to make peace with kony. when she first tried to contact him, he responded by sending her a message that was delivered in the most horrifying way.

>> bigombe: i was faced with five people. they'd been amputated and given letters to bring to me. >> logan: five people with their limbs hacked off, with a letter for you that says what? >> bigombe: yes. the letter was all very bloody. the letter was saying that they were coming to kill me. i should stop mobilizing people against them. >> logan: but that didn't put you off? that didn't stop you? >> bigombe: no. if anything, it gave me even more determination. >> logan: kony finally agreed to meet with her in 1994. to find him deep in the jungle, she says she had to walk for hours, escorted by his child soldiers. >> bigombe: the speed at which they move in this jungles is amazing. they literally glide in. you see dust. and when he was coming, my god, the drama. >> logan: bigombe, who you see here, gave us this video of the meeting. ♪

>> bigombe: his supporters were dressed like nuns, and then they were singing. and then others would drop down that the demon was coming. so many things happening at the same time. and, of course, you look at this: "my god, where am i? what's going on in here?" now, when i'm seeing him sitting right there, i'm thinking, "i wish i could just open his brain and understand why he does what he does." >> logan: bigombe left that meeting without a peace deal, and today the u.s. is pouring millions into getting kony's soldiers to give up. caesar acellam who once stood at kony's side, is at the center of that effort, working with the very enemy he once fought. he's hoping for amnesty and is now the face and the voice of this campaign, recording messages that are then broadcast over areas of the jungle where kony's soldiers are believed to be hiding. and when colonel crytzer's men handut leaets to the villagers, it's acellam's face they see.you

r acellam on tre that's pretty powerful. >> logan: so, the idea is, if members of the l.r.a. sees someone who was as senior as ceasar acellam and he's safe and well, that that will convince people that there's a safe way out of this? >> crytzer: that's correct. >> logan: colonel crytzer says he knows it's working because kony's soldiers have been defecting in increasing numbers, and his army is down to just a few hundred men. recently, the ugandans and the u.s. temporarily suspended their hunt in the central african republic because of political unrest, but not before ugandan soldiers killed kony's chief bodyguard close to where we filmed them, a sign that joseph kony's days may finally be numbered. how has one man been able to evade so many forces for so long? >> crytzer: he's a survivor. he's not an admirable human being, but he's... he's an admirable adversary. >> logan: so, do you think you

and the ugandans are... are getting closer to kony? >> crytzer: i believe we are. i can now wake up in the morning honestly and say, "is today the day?" mine was earned in djibouti, africa, 2004. the battle of bataan, 1942. [ all ] fort benning, georgia, in 1999. [ male announcer ] usaa auto insurance is often handed down from generation to generation because it offers a superior level of protection and because usaa's commitment to serve the military, veterans, and their families is without equal. begin your legacy. get an auto-insurance quote. usaa. we know what it means to serve.

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won the award as a knuckleballer, something no other knuckleballer has ever done. an umpire once described the pitch as something hitters can't hit, coaches can't coach and pitchers can't control. what's unique about dickey is that he's managed not only to control it much of the time-- he's off to a rocky start this year-- but he also puts some sauce and speed on it. dickey has had a challenging life. he was abused as a child, and once he got into baseball, he moved around as a journeyman in the minors for most of 14 years before he perfected the knuckleball. then, last year, at age 37, when most players have already retired, he had the season of his life. you had 20 wins, 11 in a row. >> r.a. dickey: yeah. >> stahl: i mean, that's pretty unheard of for any pitcher, forget a knuckleballer. >> r.a. dickey: well, let's just say i was enjoying coming to the park. it was... ( laughs ) it was fun coming to the park. >> stahl: you're living your dream. >> r.a. dickey: yeah. it was a... it was a magical

year for me. >> stahl: and he did it almost exclusively with the knuckleball, which he throws 90% of the time. curveballs curve, cutters cut. the knuckleball? it bobbles, it dips and dances so much that it's hard to catch. could you show us the difference between the fastball and the knuckleball, what the motion looks like? >> r.a. dickey: yeah, sure. be glad to. >> stahl: this is the fastball. see how it spins all the way to the catcher's mitt? now, watch the near total absence of spin in r.a.'s knuckleball. from the time the ball leaves his hand, it rotates a mere quarter of one revolution. it's a pitch that's devilishly hard to control. why do they even call it a knuckleball? >> r.a. dickey: when you see the ball coming at you, you see... the hitter sees your knuckles, and it's different than any other pitch thrown. you, for sure, throw it with your fingernails.

>> stahl: so, with other pitchers, there are "tells," and the batter knows that right before so-and-so throws a fastball, he scratches his ear or whatever. but it doesn't matter with you, right? they all know you're going to throw the knuckleball. >> r.a. dickey: they know what they're getting. i know what i'm throwing. it's just a matter of "can i throw a good one?" >> stahl: when he does throw a good one, its trajectory is so unpredictable, it's one of the hardest pitches to hit. >> announcer #1: oh, look at that. >> announcer #2: jeez. >> announcer #1: what are you going to do with that? >> stahl: some batters are hypnotized by it; others lose their balance or their bats. >> announcer #1: and utley loses the bat going after that knuckleball! >> stahl: it floats, it flits. aerodynamics professors, they don't even know for sure what's going on with the air currents r.a. dickey: yeah. well, that... that means that it's magic. >> announcer 1: that one shimmied. >> announcer 2: it's like oscillating back and forth..a. b

knklebal you cld hit it. throw aknuckleball... >> r.adi..body... hi.. .>> r.a. obody's hitting it. yeah, nobody's hitting it. >> stahl: well, have you ever hit off of a knuckleballer yourself? >> r.a. dickeyno only in a video game.i'veever..i mean, because i'm the only one left. >> stahl: he's the only one throwing the knuckleball in the big leagues today and the one o's puthe pitch on the map. >> r.a. dickey: thank you! >> stahl: his season last year with the n.y. mets was one for the books, and the fans loved him. so, it came as a shocker in december when the team decided to trade him. >> r.a. dickey: i don't think i was hurt as much as i just was sad about it because that is the place that i came to redeem my career in a lot of ways. well, in every way, really. i had finally had a parking place, you know, which took me, what, 14 years to get a parking place. >> stahl: you have to say to yourself, "what do i have to do? i won the cy young award. what did they want from me?" >> r.a. dickey: yeah, i certainly had that conversation

with myself and my agent. >> stahl: he was traded to the toronto blue jays, who signed r.a. for three years and $30 million, all guaranteed. not bad for a country boy from the poor side of nashville. so, this is the house where you grew up? >> r.a. dickey: yeah, right here, 247. >> stahl: he had a lonely and difficult childhood here with his mother, an alcoholic who worked several jobs to make ends meet. so, she was a single mom. your dad didn't help? >> r.a. dickey: you know, my dad moved out when i was little, seven or so. >> stahl: you saw things that were hard with your mother. >> r.a. dickey: alcohol was prevalent. there were confrontations. there was... you know, my mom fell asleep at night when i might meet her on the couch. or, you know, things like that. just... it was hard. >> r.a. dickey: but the real darkness of his childhood started when he was eight and left in the care of a babysitter.

all he wanted to do was watch cartoons, but she led him upstairs into the bedroom. >> r.a. dickey: the word that i would use to describe being abused by the babysitter is "confused." not knowing at all how to process it, scared to death, because here was a caretaker committing this... this act. >> stahl: and it happened more than once. >> r.a. dickey: it happened over that summer about... i'd say about four times. >> stahl: and... and you didn't tell anybody? >> r.a. dickey: no, because there's a part of it that feels so wicked. you feel like you've been a part of it in some way, and so you don't say anything. at least i don't. i didn't. >> stahl: you didn't. >> r.a. dickey: and that was a mistake. >> stahl: but the babysitter abuse was only the prelude. later that year, he was playing near a rundown garage when a stranger, a male this time, raped him. >> r.a. dickey: it was so much more physical, you know. i mean, that... it was a strong man, like, holding you down kind of stuff. it wasn't... it was jueay

awful. eight? >> r.a. dickey: i'm eight years old, but i'll ner knowing what was fixing to happen to me and just wanting it to be over with and going... just going limp, like... >> stahl: and giving... submitting... >> r.a. dickey: giving up, like, giving into it. and i think i had a lot of shame about that. >> stahl: what is the shame, if you're the abused one? >> r.a. dickey: the shame is that you didn't speak up, that you didn't have a voice, that you were in that position to begin with, that you didn't run away, that you in some way might have invited it. there's all kinds of things that play tricks on your mind. >> stahl: he says he buried all that shame, all his secrets, but it turned him into a kid who was full of anger. his one outlet was sports. he was a gifted athlete, and that proved to be his ticket out. >> r.a. dickey: this is a... a pretty special place. it was for me. >> stahl: when he was 13, he was

admitted to one of nil top prep schools on a full scholarship. this is where he found structure and discipline, and he met a classmate's sister, anne, who he proposed to back then. >> anne dickey: you know, a 12- year-old girl doesn't forget that! i don't know if... >> r.a. dickey: i pulled out my ace right at the beginning. here's my ace card. >> stahl: "here's my ace." you proposed at 13. >> anne dickey: i know. i don't know what i really thought of it. i probably was like, "ooh, this is crazy." >> stahl: they waited till after his junior year in college when the texas rangers made him the team's number-one draft choice, with a signing bonus of $810,000. but before he signed on the dotted line, the team's trainer saw this photograph of dickey on the 1996 u.s. olympics team and thought that his throwing arm was bent at a funny angle. so, he sent r.a. for an m.r.i. that found... >> r.a. dickey: i didn't have the existence of an ulnar collateral ligament in my right elbow, which is the ligament that holds the elbow together.>s

said, "without the ligament, we don't want you." >> r.a. dickey: i was sitting across from the general manager of the rangers, and he said, "you know, we don't think we want to sign you now." and it was all i could do... it took a supernatural peace to... for me to not to leap over the desk and pummel him. >> stahl: eventually, the rangers offered him a contract, but for a lot less money-- only $75,000. he started out as a classic fastball pitcher, but he kept flopping on the big league mound and being sent back to the minors. you'd be great in the minors, and they'd call you up and then you'd get into the big leagues and boom. >> r.a. dickey: yeah, no, that's... you're right. >> stahl: everyone's hitting home runs off of you. >> r.a. dickey: yeah, thanks for reminding me. ( laughs ) >> anne dickey: yeah, that one year. >> stahl: in the first ten years of his career, he spent all but two seasons in the minors, earning as little as $11,000 a year and dragging his wife and their growing family from one

minor league town to the next. it's kind of a stunning thing that you just didn't say to him one day, "come on, this is it. we have children now. it's enough." >> anne dickey: i think i was just as stubborn as he was, you know. just, we'd given up a lot, and why stop now? and "let's see what.... let's ride it out until somebody kicks us off the field." >> stahl: that time came in 2005 when his fastball began to lose steam and orel hershiser, then the rangers' pitching coach, called him in to a meeting andi. >> r.a. dickey: i wasn't good enough. and if i was ever going to make it, i had to do something different. >> stahl: and so, the word "knuckleball" comes out of oral hershiser's mouth at you, and you think? >> r.a. dickey: the first emotion i had was, "are they telling me that what i've done for 15 years, 20 years of my life isn't good enough anymore?" and that's a hard pill to swallow.

>> stahl: but it was an ultimatum: the knuckleball or you're out. so, he stayed in triple-a and had to teach himself the pitch since there was no coach in the majors who knew how to throw it. he finally got to show it off in 2006, in a game against the detroit tigers. >> r.a. dickey: you know, i had all these hopes that came with this pitch of rejuvenation and, you know, redemption. and... and then, i tie a modern- day major league record for the most home runs given up in a game. ( laughs ) yeah. >> stahl: not a game; a couple of innings, huh? >> r.a. dickey: three and two- thirds innings. >> announcer: here's the pitch, and shelton rips one to the left. gone! and that's going to be it for r.a. dickey. >> r.a. dickey: six home runs, yeah. and that was... that was devastating, to say the least. >> stahl: devastating and the beginning of a long slide down on the diamond and in his soul. he felt inadequate and angry, and his marriage was in trouble.

anne caught him cheating, and he got depressed. so, he went into therapy, which naturally led right back to the childhood abuse. >> r.a. dickey: i mean, it was the first time that i'd ever kind of gone back and... and connected with that boy, you know. and i don't cry very much, lesley, but i cried. and it was hard, but i enjoyed it. i started to enjoy risking that, because i felt like i was being freed up in some way. >> stahl: he invited his wife to join him in therapy and told her for the first time about the abuse. you had no idea? >> anne dickey: yeah. you know, i used to say, "well, how come you didn't trust me," you know? and, and he'd say, "i didn't trust anybody," you know? "i didn't trust anybody." >> stahl: he says the therapy, along with his christian faith, helped turn his life around at home and at the ballpark. he was able to concentrate almost obsessively on his pitch.

over the next two years, he threw the knuckleball thousands of times. and when he wasn't throwing the ball, he was gripping it, even as he drove. do you think that if you hadn't had the breakthrough in therapy that you would have had the one in baseball? >> r.a. dickey: no, i think they had to happen simultaneously. >> stahl: he says he became a more attentive father of his four children and a better husband. he recently reconciled with his mother, who is now sober. and he's become involved in a christian charity in india that tries to save children and young women who've been trafficked in the sex trade. in january, he went to mumbai to raise awareness of the charity. >> r.a. dickey: hello, nice to meet you. >> stahl: one of the prostitutes approached r.a. and the founder of the charity. >> r.a. dickey: she came up and said that her life was already ruined, but "could you take my chd?" and this woman was 25 years old. t...th a

thinks that her life is over,usy daughter, please?" >> stahl: but you understand. >> r.a. dickey: oh, yeah, i completely understand. >> stahl: the charity is now providing counseling and health care for the woman and her daughter. r.a. has raised over $130,000 for the group bombay teen challenge, which used the money to open this health clinic. he says he's a new man, liberated and reborn. and yet he had a disastrous outing last sunday when he broke a fingernail in the first inning against the red sox. >> announcer: and not the way r.a. dickey wanted to start his blue jays career. >> stahl: a broken nail can derail a knuckleballer, but r.a. knows the season is long, and, like his pitch, full of zigs and zags, ups and downs. [ jackie ] it's just so frustrating...

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>> safer: it sometimes seems america is a country hopelessly divided-- by class, by politics, by culture. tonight, we go to a remote place where few have trodden before-- marfa, texas-- for a lesson in artful coexistence. marfa is in cattle country, the high desert of far west texas. like many small towns, it's come close to extinction. but today, marfa lives on, is even thriving; its renaissance spurred by the arrival of a host of young, cutting-edge artists. mixing cowboys and culture might seem like a bad idea, but it's made marfa a capital of quirkiness, and it's produced a harmony as sweet as the country music that fills the air. >> ♪ blue texas skies

keep shining down on me. ♪ >> safer: out on the lone prairie, a 200-mile drive from the nearest airport, stands marfa, population 2,000. the train doesn't stop here anymore, and, at first glance, the place may look half dead. ♪ but look closer. marfa today is an eccentric tex- mex stew of art galleries, tourists, cowboys and characters. >> dan dunlap: it's a freedom- loving town. people are allowed just to live and let live. >> safer: as mayor, dan dunlap presides over a town where old marfans saddle up to ride the range and the new ones paint and sculpt, all in a very quiet place. crime a problem? >> dunlap: no, sir, crime is not a problem. >> safer: when was the last murder you had in marfa? >> dunlap: can't remember. >>n rs: and acti

safer: well, there was one. the coen brothers shot their movie "no country for old men" outside of town. they needed a local to murder, one with some acting experience. >> chip love: i told them i was in the "wizard of oz" in high school, and they said, "that's perfect." >> safer: ( laughs ) so, chip love, a local banker, found himself face to face with that loco hombre, javier bardem. it's pretty unusual for the town's leading banker... >> love: yeah, i'm the town's leading banker. the only one, yeah. >> safer: ...to get shot in the head by a crazed crook. >> love: well, i think a lot of people would like to see their banker shot right now. >> safer: actually, the movies and marfa go way back. in 1955, the texas epic "giant" was filmed here, and townspeople got to watch rock hudson roping, james dean riding and elizabeth taylor... well, just being elizabeth taylor.

there's a shrine to the movie in marfa's paisano hotel. >> love: it was about cattle. it was about ranches.as a ut the things that we hold dear. >> marfa! >> safer: but these days, watching the passing parade, you're not quite sure if you're in mayberry or greenwich village. >> ( cheers ) >> safer: for old marfans, there's the gun show. >> we started this program in 2010. >> safer: for new marfans, a symposium on politics, culture, climate and sustainability. ♪ and, for reasons we weren't able to pin down, adolescent hula dancers. >> buck johnston: i mean, it's nutty. it's just this cultural little hub in the middle of nowhere. we think it's the best small town in america. >> camp bosworth: don't tell anybody. edit that out, please. >> johnston: that's right. >> safer: camp bosworth and buck johnston are members in good standing of the marfa new wave, their gallery packed with camp's texas-size wood carvings. >> bosworth: ts is a sixshoo'sl.

and this turns, you know. i've carved it with various details. >> safer: there's also the pistol that doubles as a bar. you've got lots of tequila. >> bosworth: yeah, lots of tequila. >> safer: a few blocks away, painter ann marie nafziger is hard at work, an ohio native who moved here from portland, oregon. your first trip to marfa, what did you make of the place? >> nafziger: i was astounded by the landscape coming in, the land and the light. it's an incredible place to look at as a painter. i love living here. >> maryam amiryani: with the elvis... >> safer: maryam amiryani paints still lifes and cultural icons. she was born in iran, traveled the world, and wound up in marfa. >> amiryani: my husband and i wanted to move somewhere to live a simple life close to nature, to paint more. >> safer: what did this place have that others might not have had? >> amiryani: it just seemed a bit more... more extreme, and that... that appealed to us. ( laughs )

>> ♪ welcome to west texas. >> safer: if you want extreme, try the weather in marfa. >> ♪ dust clouds, a tornado or two. ♪ >> safer: it's best described as "all over the map." >> ♪ well, the wind outside is howlin', coyotes cry in fear ♪ welcome to west texas you're going to like it here. ♪ >> love: i've always been amazed at the courage these people have that come out here and not really sure how they're going to make a living. and they just show up because it feels right. ♪ >> safer: the new marfans have transformed the place. padre's, the local watering hole, was once a funeral parlor. ballroom marfa, a gallery, was a mexican dance hall. camp and buck live in a converted church. and there are further signs this is not your grandfather's marfa. >> yoga teacher: exhale, forward, fold...

>> safer: yoga fans can catch up on their chakras and their downward dogs at the town bookstore, and also read up on abstract expressionism. tim johnson, a poet/ philosopher, runs the place. this is a remarkably big bookshop for a very small town. >> johnson: yeah, it really is. we have, like, 60 to maybe 80 or 90 people who come out for a poetry reading, which is strange. and it has something to do with the fact that there are basically no other competing entertainment options. >> safer: there's not much competition on the road, either. marfa has one stoplight; the next one is 56 miles away. >> bosworth: every now and then, you'll have to wait for, like, five cars. ( laughs ) and you really do find yourself going... >> johnston: what is going on? >> bosworth: ...what is going on? >> johnston: who let the traffic out? >> announcer: you are tuned to krts-marfa, 93.5 f.m. >> safer: it's also just about the smallest town anywhere to have its own public radio station. >> tom michael: if cattle could

ledge forms, we would have a station. >> safer: ( laughs ) manager tom michael says, in marfa, public radio is really public. volunteers serve as d.j.s. listeners find themselves on the air. >> michael: you know, we got some great cranks in west texas, sweet curmudgeons. we really love hearing from them. >> safer: tell me about some of them. >> michael: tuggy lancaster, she passed away last year. she would call up and say, "my donkeys want to hear classical and jazz." >> safer: ( laughs ) >> safer: ellery aufdengarten is a local rancher born and bred in the wide open spaces. >> aufdengarten: i mean, how can you beat this? look. it doesn't get any better than this. >> safer: he might weag th chuhill, who said there's mething about the outside of a horse that's good for the inside of a man. and though he admits to understanding cattle better than understanding modern art, he gives the new artistic marfans a tip of his stetson. you think it's been good for the

town? >> aufdengarten: i would have to say yes. i mean, i... i don't know what it would have looked like if they hadn't come. >> safer: do you mix at all with the artsy people? >> aufdengarten: yeah. yeah. >> safer: what do you make of them? >> aufdengarten: it's kind of like bird watching, sometimes. >> safer: ( laughs ) in a way, all the creative souls who've landed here are the spiritual descendants of this man: the late donald judd, an artist who headed west in the 1970s. >> rob weiner: he wanted to get out of new york city. it had become too claustrophobic, and he wanted to go to a place that was much more open, as far as the landscape was concerned. and he loved the land. >> safer: rob weiner worked for judd, who set up shop on a deserted army base. he's now associate director of a museum housing works by judd and other minimalist artists. >> weiner: judd wanted a kind of museum that would give a different experience of how the art and the architecture and the landscape work together.

>> safer: today, antelope play among judd's boxes. boxes, little boxes and bigger boxes, boxes all in a row, not made out of ticky-tacky but of concrete. >> joe cabezuela: we don't understand the art. it's different, you know. we're used to portraits of cattle, windmills, cowboys. >> safer: joe cabezuela is a community leader among marfa's hispanics, who make up 75% of the town. it's a place where tolerance once had its limits, depending on which side of the tracks you came from. >> cabezuela: back when i was growing up, a mexican kid couldn't go out with an anglo girl. i mean, it was... you know, they still went out. the parents didn't know about it, but... ( laughs ) >> safer: but these days, anglos, hispanics, tourists and marfans old and new all rub elbows. >> woman #1: do you roast the jalapenos? >> woman #2: no. >> safer: and most everybody agrees the newcomers have given marfa a new face.

>> cabezuela: marfa would have been a little old dusty town had they not come in and sort of, like, revived it, you know. >> safer: has the economy improved for the hispanic community? >> cabezuela: it has because of the jobs, i believe. >> safer: and with the artists and the tourist dollars, the town now has not one but two upscale restaurants. at el cosmico, sort of a hip trailer camp, you can sleep in a teepee or an airstream. and if you decide to stay on, you'll quickly learn the basic facts of life in a very small town. number one: be nice. >> nafziger: there's a reliance on other people. you should make sure you're getting along with your neighbor because you'll probably need them. >> safer: number two: everybody knows everybody else's business. >> michael: i mean, the joke is, you don't need to put on your turn signal because they know where you're going. >> safer: so, no secrets? >> michael: no secrets.

>> safer: and number three: no frills. >> weiner: it's still a hardscrabble lifestyle. there's no pharmacy, there's no dry cleaner. it's hard to get things. >> safer: and newcomers can find the wide open spaces claustrophobic and the sound of silence deafening, especially if you're a transplanted new yorker. how often do you have to get out of here? >> weiner: you know, between six and eight weeks, i'm usually ready for a jolt of city life. >> safer: and on your way out of town, you'll want to stop at the most bizarre spot in these parts. there, at sundown, like a desert mirage, is prada marfa. >> boyd elder: there's been people stopping, thinking it's a store, slamming on their brakes. >> safer: it's full of $1,000 italian shoes and $2,000 bags, but the door is always locked. as custodian boyd elder explains, prada marfa is not a store but a statement put up in the middle of nowhere by two german artists.

>> elder: they wanted to see what happened by putting it here, to see if it would stay and to see what the results would be. and they want some kind of, like, public response to their art. >> safer: and they got it. pilgrims to marfa can't resist a snapshot. beyonce, for instance, was swept off her feet; others weren't. >> elder: i mean, it's been vandalized. some people love it, other people hate it. >> safer: what about the folks in marfa? what did they make of it? >> elder: i think a lot of them think it's just a joke. >> safer: what do you consider it to be? >> elder: i consider it to be hilarious. i consider it to be facetious. and i consider it to be neurotic. ( laughs ) >> ♪ texas moon shining bright. ♪ >> safer: and so, we bid a fond farewell to the magic kingdom of marfa. many moons ago, somebody named the place after a heroine in the novel "crime and punishment," but this marfa has very little crime and thus virtually no punishment.

except, of course, for the long and lonely road. ♪ >> bell come to the cbs sports update presented by pfizer. at the masters today, australia's adam scott defeated angel cabrera in a dramatic two-hole playoff to take the green jacket. scott entered the day one shot behind cabrera but birdied 13, 15 and 18 to force the playoff and become first-ever australian to win the green jacket. for more sports news and information, go to cbssports.com. this is jim nantz reporting from butler cabin in augusta,ss georgia. i'm phil mickelson, pro golfer. when i was diagnosed with psoriatic arthritis, my rheumatologist prescribed enbrel for my pain and stiffness, and to help stop joint damage.

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>> stahl: i'm lesley stahl. we'll be back next week with another edition of "60 minutes." captioning funded by cbs, and ford-- built for the road ahead. [ poof! ]

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phil: previously on "the amazing race" -- seven teams racing through botswana. starting in last place, max and a run-in with the law. >> 30 seconds before i said down -- phil: bates and anthony braved