♪ ♪ ♪ ♪

>> i always feel slightly depressed by beautiful vistas, you know i mean? ♪

ah, the storybook kingdom of granada. one of the oldest, most complex, magically surreal places in spain. and one of the most beautiful. granada is tucked against the sierra nevada mountains of andalucia in southern spain. it's not like barcelona. it's not like saint sebastian. it ain't madrid. any reasonable person who looks at spain, comes to spain, eats

in spain, drinks in spain, they're going to fall in love. otherwise, there's something deeply wrong with you. spain is the sort of place that never really made any sense anyway. and in the very best possible way. this is the country that gave us the spanish inquisition. also anarchy. this is where devout catholicism mixes with surrealism, modernist cuisine with traditional tapa. christianity and islam traded places, shared space. the effects of influences of all those things are right here to see. you can almost look back through time and through the mists of history, see the phoenicians marching up across the vega. or are those feral hippies? an influx of international hippies, many of whom appear to have set up squats in the caves up the mountain, have made things interesting. if they ask what we're doing we should say we're staging

the moon landing. wherever you are on the ideological spectrum, some things are constant, it seems. some stereotypical expectations. it's true, there are free tapas everywhere. yes, they do take siestas which is a civilized thing to do, far as i can see. flamenco, yes, they do that also. but in granada, they do it old school. and oh yeah, bullfighting. they do that here, too. but i digress. i'm here to answer a question. what happens if you go over to the other side? say you grew up in the states and wondered, fantasized about what it would be like living abroad in old europe, surrounded by crusader castles, delicious food, another language, another culture? what would that alternate life, that road not taken be like? my longtime friend and cameraman my longfrom maine, zachcameraman zamboni, is finding out.

so where are we going? >> right here, one of these tables. maybe we want to do this with. see? how often can you go out with somebody who can properly block the table? it's misery, is what it is. >> oh boy. >> ay, yes, of course. snails in an almond sauce. about as traditional and delicious as it gets. that's a plateful of perfect happiness. >> good tapa, huh? >> that's right, tapas come from here. this is still one of the few places in spain where they're free. all you have to do is keep drinking. >> you can sit here all day. just order a couple drinks. >> no rush. i'm glad i'm spending some time here. red wine ordered. tripes to follow. tender, spicy, delicious tripe. >> sun, plaza. guts. pretty f---ing good. >> hello. hello. >> not too long ago, before zach

basically defected to spain, he met fuen. the next thing you know, he's living here. part of an extended andalucian family. eating the ham, drinking the wine living the life of the spanish dandy. in freaking granada, no less. >> classically, culturally speaking, do you want a sensitive, nice, caring thoughtful guy? >> well, it depends on the woman, first. but usually we look for this kind of person that we know he will protect us. >> from what? feral hippies? >> for example. >> i would like to do the vows of your wedding. do you, zach zamboni, swear to protect fuen sanchez from attacks by feral cave-dwelling hippies? who might attempt to sell her jewelry or other things of little value. >> he's actually... >> i figure now that zach is marrying into a spanish family, i can piggy back along, suck up a little of the magic, live a

little bit of what has often been my dream, too. >> if we can get weird for a second here, man. some places, do they have an energy, man, about them? >> what are you saying? >> you know, i don't want to get into metaphysics. >> you are going to end up living in a cave if you keep talking like this. more wine. to see spain, to see it straight, to understand it at all, you should probably peek, if only through spread fingers, at that most spanish of traditions. bullfighting. meet alfandi, one of spain's most dashing and respected bullfighters. he's invited me to la marquesas ranch, a private bull ring where he likes to practice. >> so what you're going to do

now is see how brave -- >> and if the calf is not brave, stew. >> along with me for the day, fuen's brother, alejandro. who like many spaniards, consider bullfighting an art. today a little practice first. don't worry, this guy is too young to fight. >> you see the red cape, you know this is the most thing. where they make all the art, all the poetry. >> why the cape, not the man? >> because it's moving. >> so that's important? >> you don't want it to be moving at all. it seems they get threatened.

>> this guy clearly has spirit. right away he tries to take a poke at zach's femoral artery. promising. >> he's going to teach you. >> yeah. >> sure. >> no one likes to look like a pussy on tv, so when alfandi pujokingly suggests i join him in the ring to wave a pink cape at an aggressive young bull, who just moments ago young charged my cameraman i said what any idiot would say -- si. it all starts well enough. hey, this is fun. this is easy. until i get a horn hooked right up next to my nutsack. then it's not so fun. thanks, guys. this youngster shall live, perhaps to gore a future tv host with his mighty horns.

now this is what a real bull looks like. this is a whole different thing. 500-freaking-kilos of aggressive charging killdozer aiming at your meat and two veg. it's a lot of muscle. >> yeah, it's a lot of muscle. that's a big bull. ♪

>> no matter how big, how strong, how scary, for this intrepid reporter who's seen many animals die for his dinner, this part is never easy. >> so as you see, he puts the cape lower. so when the bull brings the face forward, showing the neck -- that's it. that was very good. that's it. >> it's time for stew. bull stew. our friend went to a better place after all. like a big pot, where he simmered slowly for hours with local herbs, onions and potatoes. nothing like a roaring fire, and a spread of iberico ham, homemade chorizo, spanish cheeses, bread, and good

olive oil to take the sting out of a near genital mutilation. >> looks good, eh? >> it's not a bad place to come right? >> no. >> he started at age 19? if you were a little boy growing up, you aspired to be a bullfighter. the matadors were the original rock stars, the ideal of masculinity, male beauty, and grace. that runs deep. like it or not, you should probably know this before dating a spanish guy. i'd happily see an end to it tomorrow. but there is no denying the terrible beauty of the very complex tradition. >> it's not about winning. it's not about killing the bull.

and nor is it about being just skillful. you have to look good doing it, too. are there any ugly ass bullfighters? a really out of shape -- a muffin top. how do you call a muffin top? >> we have everything. >> well, it was an education today, and a great meal. thank you. >> cheers. >> cheers. ♪ we're not writers, but we help you shape your financial story. ♪ we're not an airline, but our network connects global businesses across nearly 160 markets. ♪ we're not a startup, but our innovation labs use new technologies to help keep your information secure. ♪ we're not architects, but we help build stronger communities. ♪ we're not just any bank. we are citi. ♪

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book direct at bestwestern.com. holy week. or semana santa as it's called.

observed all over southern spain with a seriousness and fervor you might not see elsewhere. for the seven days leading up to easter, nearly every city in andalucia gets taken over by ancient processions. to an outsider, it's an impenetrable montage of confusing, yet deeply evocative images. figures in dark hoods loom up from every direction. spoke pots of incense, candles, religious imagery, and the crowds. flashes of goya and velazquez, dimly remembered impressions of the inquisition. okay, watch this. these guys got to get their

painstakingly crafted massively sized and incredibly heavy and cumbersome float through the door, down the steps, and out into the street. pedro is another of fuen's brothers, the youngest, and when not working for an i.t. company in ireland, he does this. he carries crushingly heavy religious floats. they're called casteleros. and they devote months of training to this. that thing's huge. >> yeah, it's huge. it is very heavy. heavy throne. >> the virgin float, about 3,500 pounds total, and precise dimensions that have to make it through door just so. the bearers have to kneel. crawl along with it on their backs to get it through the door.

and the main event. ready, set, up. let's face it. i like a procession and all, but who likes a bunch of guys in hoods coming in your general direction? i don't. frankly, it freaks me out. time for a drink, perhaps. this is tabernaculo.

as best i understand it, an easter jesus and mary-themed drinking establishment, where between drinks, one can ponder the agony of christ, but with sausages. is it like this all year? >> the whole year. >> always like this? >> whole year, yeah. you have incense all year. easter music all year. >> is this a week for quiet contemplation and worship or is this a party week or both? >> both of them. >> throughout the course of the week, over 40-odd processions will creep slowly through these streets. there are different brotherhoods, each with their own sacred colors, crests, insignia and so on. it's their medallions of particular christ images that adorn the bar. and frankly, they're kind of bumming me out. maybe it's just me, but when i'm getting a nice late morning buzz, i don't particularly want jesus looking down at me from, like, everywhere. >> how drunk can you get here? don't you feel a little guilty for getting really drunk here? >> of course.

>> this is one of my favorite things. >> try it. it's amazing. >> gaze away disapprovingly all you like, jesus. i am happy now. overlooking granada, the hillside of sacramonte is riddled with caves, many older than anyone even remembers. spanish gypsies have lived here in caves turned homes like this for hundreds of years. ♪

>> they call this a jeurga, an informal, intimate and spontaneous performance. what jazz musicians might recognize as a jam session. >> this is it, granada. the only place in the world where you get to see real flamenco in a cave. >> alissia is an aficionado. our host is a poet, historian, and a patriarch of the community here. an icon of the flamenco world. you see travelers, roma people are more embraced by the culture here than most other places in europe. >> we have our own gypsies. those are ours. we can tell you three things for sure we do here.

we do flamenco. we do tapas. and we do siestas. >> you do them well. >> we know how to live, don't we? >> yeah. ♪ ♪

♪ ♪

>> they dig deep for their material here. it means something. they're telling you something about themselves. >> what is the word? duende? what is duende? i've heard it. is it an emotional state or a technical -- >> no.

>> is unhappiness necessary for great art? >> it's necessary, para trabajo magnifico. >> you'd have to think about that. >> you perform very well after a couple of these. >> i may not have duende, but i have valentine's. i know that expression. wait a minute.

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nighttime in granada. it's time to pursue that greatest of spanish traditions, tapas. you may think you know what a tapa is. if you've had small bites at some fusion hipster bar with a lot of little plates. yeah, that ain't a tapa. >> how often do you do this? >> i do it five days a week. it's rare not to do this. but, you know, it's like on a weekend, you come out for a bunch. weekday, you come out for one.

>> this is latana, a little place run by jesus and louisa, brother and sister. one bartender, one cook, taking care of everything. >> tapa is for free. that's the main issue, the tapa. >> so you're just paying for the wine. >> exactly. >> so if i were a degenerate wino, i could still eat well. as long as i can afford my wine, i'd eat. >> cheers. >> let us put this theory into practice. with our first round of drinks comes this. >> tomato with bread, garlic, olive oil and blended. >> i could pretty much eat that all day. that's right. tapas are free. it shouldn't work, but somehow it does. another drink, another tapa. tomatoes, olive oil, bread. >> awesome. it's amazing. >> so all i've got to do is keep drinking and i'll eat like a king

>> maybe you'd be interested in caviar. >> really? that's not included? >> that's not the point of the tapas. usually you have a few tapas. then you -- >> you get hungry. >> exactly. >> they're just hooking you in with this. >> it's all a scam. couple little nibbles, the next thing you know, you're ordering 200 grams of caviar. caviar ain't free, my friend. delicious, entirely sustainable, spanish caviar from farmed river sturgeon. >> you can go into a place like this and get... >> bread with tomato. >> yeah, or... >> some high test caviar. >> oh! >> you guys are going to eat the whole thing in one. >> sorry, is there something wrong with that? not even married yet, it's nag, nag, nag. next place. let's do it. ah, tapas. what a novel concept. there is even a verb for it: tapayar. meaning to take tapas.

as in: if we go to tapayar some more, we're going to have to elbow past this crowd of catholics, here. >> is it extra insane because it's santa semana? yes, but it's always busy here, man. >> oh boy. >> the bar we're going -- it's just on the other side. >> maybe we go around. with parades crisscrossing the city in every direction, the steady drum beat warns that your route is about to be cut off entirely for the next 40 minutes. >> we can cross. >> we have to go around. >> where? going around, going around, going around. >> we need to walk fast. >> people take their processions very seriously here and aren't

exactly accommodating to anyone who threatens to block the view. >> that was amazing, right? >> finally, bar number two. oliver. this place is always packed. beer, please. and with it comes a delightful tapa of mussels steamed in butter and olive oil. >> that's a great tapa. this is what's different. people come in here and they will eat like this perfectly happy. perfectly content to forego the table, come here, stand around and eat like this. and>> fuen's glass of wine comes with fried eggplant and honey. which sound moorish in origin. more wine accompanied by these delicious little clams.

and the main event. >> now we are talking. these langoustines, however, are not tapas and consequently not free. but worth it at any price. >> that's so totally awesome. we did good work here. >> should we go on? >> no, let's move on. >> as this death march of tapas continues, things start to get a little weird. this is the story of my life. he doesn't do this at home? >> no. now i understand how you feel. >> yes. >> every day. >> good. finally. a little empathy. i do like the increasingly meta-aspect of this show. i should really be live streaming. now we can really be interesting.

finally, bar gallado. just making it before closing. we've had a lot to eat and drink at this point. some restraint needs to be shown. dude, fried fish. little ones. >> then we're done. >> and cheese. >> but instead, three more beers, three more tapas. cheese. fried smelts. and baby lamb chops. >> these are super good. i'm uncomfortable with the idea of something for nothing. >> it's not something for nothing. >> three dollars for a glass of wine and something for nothing. >> if somebody can get the math right in the u.s., this will take off. >> no, never. >> really? >> you will never have tapas culture in america. ever. you're looking to change the entire day, from the minute you get up in the morning in america you nap in the afternoon. are you out of your mind? >> i want to be able to go down, walk to my bar, i

want to have a little beer. >> i want a golden unicorn that shits money. both of those scenarios are equally likely. ♪ ("un monde pliable" by jeongpill song) ♪ ( ♪ ♪ ) (camera shutters) ( ♪ ♪ ) (camera shutters) ( ♪ ♪ ) ( ♪ ♪ ) ( ♪ ♪ ) like ours is spoiling their dogs. good, real food is simple. it looks like food, it smells like food, it's what dogs are supposed to be eating. ♪ if we want a more viable future for our kids,

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every storybook kingdom needs a castle. granada, it's got a good one. the alhambra. one of the most enchanted, inscrutable, maddeningly beautiful structures ever created by man. built on top of ninth century bfortifications by the nasrid dynasty and added to and added to as history unfolded

through wars and tragedy and invasion and conquest. >> on outside it's very bare. all you see are the tiny windows. and it's projecting impenatrability. then you come in here. zach has gone, well, let's call it what it is, a bit mad about the place. the details, and there are a lot of them, can obsess a man. plus is a cinematographer, so you can understand, once youo really look around, how that might get a grip on a guy whose profession is the intricate play between light and darkness. >> my theory is that they're trying to weave nature, calligraphy, symbols. these are all inscriptions within here, inscriptions turned into graphics. >> right, because you are not to depict works of god. >> yes, but what you can depict, and this is what this entire place is, is geometric systems. >> yes.

>> when the nasrid dynasty lived here, it was a harmonious space where light, shade, water, the transit of the moon and stars were harnessed and glorified. >> i think the best assumption is nothing is random. they came here and laid out everything according to -- >> a plan. this was a place for reflection. each element of design presumably intended to have effects both psychological and religious. >> it's really a cinematographer's paradise. everything is about light and man. obviously there weren't cinematographers but everything is framing for them. >> how long did it take them to build this?

>> hundreds of years. >> that's why it takes so long for you to get the shot? >> oh, snap. >> in the builders time, engineers, astronomers, mathematicians were like priests, magicians,ans were possessors of divine knowledge of how the universe worked. did they want to contemplate nature or conquer it, control it? >> they were certainly trying to emulate it. their mathematics were trying to find out how nature worked, particularly the square roots and the repetition of pattern. >> they saw mathematical patterns in the sky and on earth, the way water moved and rippled, the way things grew, the simple pine cone, a fern, a pomegranate, and they thought about the basic truths these things might represent. >> these symmetries can all be shuffled, spun on any point and they align again with themselves. so if you stretched them out, for them they pointed to infinity. >> we will understand all things.

>> through contemplating sacred geometry. >> how did nature unfold, pattern itself? could the basic designs of nature, even if divine, be replicated in this magnificent structure? they're trying to solve the riddle of god here. >> exactly.

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an hour's drive from granada, the mediterranean. unlike much of spain's coastline ruined by real estate speculators and overdevelopment, specthe coast around here inent, almeria, is largely unspoiled. i'm on my way to a moraga, a tradition in these parts best described as the local version of a beach barbecue.

working the grill, chef juan andres moria. he heads the el claustro in granada. we're joined by fellow chef rafael luca and friends. >> this is some good-looking food here. food >> some of that simple, yet magical salmorejo on toast. one of my favorite things. dried tuna. flavor packed like tuna prosciutto. >> some olive oil. >> extra virgin from granada. >> it's spicy. and bitter. >> awesome. >> spain is a beautiful country. we're not even eating yet and it's good. it's like a -- pate de morcilla >> oh, sweet. >> more, mas! that is like the best thing in

the world. >> you want to eat the whole thing? >> this? yeah. chocolate. this is the chocolate of the gods. >> some grilled octopus, and and sea bream, and some nice pork tenderloin. and my personal favorite, a particularly delicious morcilla, flesh blood sausage. yes. i feel some duende coming on. just squeeze that. sexual metaphors are coming. beautiful. the feeling. looking good. wow. look at that. a lot of fat. >> yeah. it's quite nice. >> those were happy pigs. lazy pigs. >> the ones we like. the ones we breed here. >> yeah, the pigs and the bulls are very happy here. until they're not. the moment of truth.

okay. enough with the work. let's eat. nice. awesome. great meal. great, great, great. this is the dream of all the world. the dream is to live in granada. twork in the morning, have a one hour nap in the afternoon, at night go out he afternoon, and have that life. go out and see your friends and eat tapa and drink red wine and be in a beautiful place. to have this kind of music and this food and this kind of culture and to look out the window and to see spain. >> one thing. family. family is very, very, very important. >> see. he did it right. he's marrying into a spanish family in granada. he's cheating, man. >> he's very lucky. and a smart guy.

>> right. look, now one is going to dare dream of this because this is too much to dream for. this is extraordinary. but an ordinary life in spain looks pretty good to me. (sean) i wish for the amazing new iphone 15 pro! (jason) sean! do you mean this one - the one with titanium? switch to verizon, you can trade in any iphone, and get the new iphone 15 pro on them. (vo) trade in any iphone in any condition for a new iphone 15 pro on us. only on verizon. ♪ hit it ♪ ♪ it takes two to make a thing go right ♪ ♪ it takes two to make it outta sight ♪ ♪ it takes two to make a thing go right ♪

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the new swinging zamboni lifestyle. rise early like 9:00 a.m. then down at the coffee shop for a cafe coleche. maybe a small breakfast like toast with tomato. no more than that. light. simple. because there will be a lot more eating and drinking today, and you want to be ready. by 2:00 p.m., he's made his way back up hill to mom's place. >> every day i come here for lunch. and i walk in and she says get us two beers. so i'll get two beers from the fridge and watch her cook. >> everybody's home for easter. maria jose, zach's soon to be mother-in-law and dad. plus the soon to be

brothers-in-law who you've already met. what this nice family doesn't realize, they're not just gaining a son but an annoying half drunk and extremely hungry uncle tony. >> and i know what happens here. >> yeah, so let's -- >> sitting there ready to be carved. >> you know that zach had to prove to us, that he was able to cut the ham before he proposed to my sister. >> i think that's a completely reasonable policy. eventually the appropriate hour for lunch approaches. not to embarrass you publicly, but maine is not exactly the mediterranean of america. how's he adapting? let's face it -- >> he's more spanish than me. >> really? >> yeah. in the first week he was like i don't understand how you like i guys can take siesta.

week after, i need a siesta. >> it's interesting to see how you've made the transition. cheers. >> first off, this. bakalou salad. cod, egg, black olives, oranges, tomatoes dressed in olive oil. remember, this is holy week. maria jose is preparing recipes that go back through the family so far that nobody knows exactly where they even came from. migas, another iconic dish of andalucia. informally referred to as the shepherd's lunch. born as a way to use old, hard bread and combine all the week's leftovers. i'm told every household in spain has a variation. what changes is what you put on it. today it's sardines, cod, chorizo, melon and peppers.

that's a lot of good stuff in one bowl. so how often do you eat this well? >> every lunch is like this. every day i'm here. but lunch is big. big lunch, siesta. but you can't -- you know, i used to try to resist siesta. you can't do it here. society will not accept you not taking siesta here. that's the flow of life here. >> that begs the question, while i'm busy hating you for your life, how often are you getting drunk a day? >> twice. one and a half. [ speaking in foreign language ] >> that is so spanish. everybody has a very distinct opinion and it's completely different. like this is a fact. someone will say, "whatever". >> when my time comes, i pretty much want to die at a table like

this. good work, zamboni. good work. so zach, happy with the show? >> hope we don't suck on television. >> dude, i think i'm setting a pretty low bar. i'm going to tell you this relaxed lifestyle, lounging around eating and drinking. no nap is long enough for me. life is good. i envy you zach zamboni. and we're out. nice end. [dramatic music] ♪ ♪ [footsteps tapping]